Where London August 2016

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London

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®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

LONDON'S LEGACY Discover why the capital is in a sporting league of its own

BY ROYAL INVITATION

SPORT S SPECIA L W h e re t

How you can explore Prince Charles’ home

o watch t he Rio 201 6 Ga m e s A guide to Lond on’s Olympic Park

HIDDEN LONDON

Visit secret bunkers, tunnels and Tube stations

AL FRESCO FUN

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MAPS

LO

DINING

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SHOPPING

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ENTERTAINMENT

A

CULTURE

IC FIND A Y N N O IN DO EX UR SI N M P D AP RE E S

Outdoor film, theatre, picnics, drinks and art

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Contents

®

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

LONDON'S LEGACY Discover why the capital is in a sporting league of its own

BY ROYAL INVITATION

SPORT SPECIAS

How you can explore Prince Charles’ home

L Where to watch the Rio 2016 Games

HIDDEN LONDON

Visit secret bunkers, tunnels and Tube stations

A guide

to London’s Olympic Park

AL FRESCO FUN

Outdoor film, theatre, picnics, drinks and art

MAPS

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SI

LON

DINING

IN

SHOPPING

AM

ENTERTAINMENT

ER

IC FIND AN YOU DO EX R N PR DE MAP ES S®

August

CULTURE

18/07/2016 12:18

ON THE COVER

Let the Olympic Games begin! Celebrate London’s legacy. Olympic Park © Visit Britain

The Guide 48

24 SIGHTSEEING Take a peek inside Clarence House, the royal residence that’s home to the Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall. 40 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES You don’t have to visit a gallery to enjoy art – as the Serpentine Pavilion in Kensington Gardens opens, we round up the best outdoor art. 48 ENTERTAINMENT Watch a film alfresco at one of the pop-up screens across the city, from Kew Gardens to Somerset House. 62 SHOPPING Read about London’s magnificent markets, which sell everything from antiques and food to alternative clothing.

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84

68

Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW Take your pick of August’s top events, including partying at the Notting Hill Carnival, watching the football kick off with the Premier League and cheering on competitors in a river race.

16 HIDDEN LONDON 22

Take a tour of secret places, from disused Underground stations to subterranean bunkers.

22 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE The kids will be alright! Pick up a souvenir, from a London guard to a Mad Hatter tea party set.

10 OLYMPICS – FOUR YEARS ON

90 MY LONDON

As the Rio Olympics begin, find out where to watch the Games and how to make the most of London’s Olympic Park.

Jade Ewen, who stars as Princess Jasmine in the West End musical Aladdin, talks about her favourite spots in London.

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ARABIC EDITION SUMMER 2016 ®

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2016

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PASS

The Where Pass is London’s newest, all-encompassing traveller’s ticket allowing visitors to experience the city’s top attractions with attractive discounts and integrated transport. Incorporating contactless debit card technology and an interactive digital platform – visiting London has never been more convenient. Visit www.wherepasslondon.com for more information.

68 DINING This month’s dining options include posh picnics, a restaurant in Damien Hirst’s new art gallery and a taste of Morocco. 80 NIGHTLIFE Grab a pint in one of the capital’s beautiful beer gardens, from the 400-year-old Mayflower to The People’s Park Tavern with 70 different beers on tap. 84 SPAS & SALONS Make a splash at one of London’s swimming pools, including openair venues and ones with a view. 86 ESSENTIALS Wojciech Urbanczyk, head concierge at the Hilton London Paddington, shares his tips on how to make the most of your visit. 88 MAPS A map of central London. w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 3

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EDITORIAL

GROUP EDITOR Kohinoor Sahota GROUP DEPUTY EDITOR Sarah Riches ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sam Rogg SUB EDITOR Anna Frame CONTRIBUTORS Paul Critcher GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton ART EDITOR Shelley Varley GRAPHIC DESIGNER Grant Pearce PICTURE EDITOR Tamsan Barratt PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Mark Elliott

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WELCOME

Editor’s Letter

Let the games begin! Who can forget the London Olympic Games? We saw sporting heroes, including Jessica Ennis-Hill, who became a household name after her heptathlon victory, Mo Farah with his ‘mobot’ pose and The Queen ‘parachuting’ out of a helicopter. Relive the joy of London’s legacy in our Olympic feature, and find out where you can watch this year’s Rio Olympic Games (p. 10). London is a city filled with people – it’s hard to find any secret spaces. In Hidden London (p. 16) we tell you about tours of places we can’t believe still exist, from bunkers used by Sir Winston Churchill during World War II to disused Underground stations. Plus, we round up unusual locations anyone can visit, including the place where the world’s first successful Caesarean section was performed and the site of some ancient Roman baths. This is a great time to visit London as so many of our iconic buildings are open for you to visit, including the Houses of Parliament (p. 28) and royal residences Buckingham Palace and Clarence House (p. 24). London also comes alive in the summer! As the sun shines, you will see the city in a new light with beer gardens (p. 80), outdoor art trails (p. 40), bustling markets (p. 62), open-air swimming pools (p. 84), pop-up cinemas and theatre venues (p. 48), and picnic hampers you can pick up and enjoy in nearby parks (p. 68). Enjoy the summer!

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

MO FARAH COURTESY OF SAINSBURY’S GAMES

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: Where London

Above: Mo Farah in action w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 5

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®

NOW Take your pick of the month’s big events – kick things off with football, join Europe’s largest street party and have a pint at a beer festival

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PREMIER LEAGUE FOOTBALL FROM SATURDAY 13 AUGUST

As the English football season kicks off, all eyes are on Leicester City. After the underdogs shocked the sporting world with their Premier League victory last season, they’re now back to defend their title. Will they win again, or will a London club like Arsenal (pictured) or Chelsea win some silverwear for the capital? It’s anyone’s guess. www.premierleague.com

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BBC GOOD FOOD FESTIVAL SATURDAY 27-MONDAY 29 AUGUST

Visitors to Hampton Court Palace are in for a treat this August bank holiday weekend as the BBC Good Food Show brings food stalls, local producers, live music and family entertainment to the historic site. Stock up on tasty British treats from independent producers and discover new gadgets to make you a whizz in the kitchen. Festival tickets include entry to the palace, so make a day of it! www.bbcgoodfoodfestival.com

RAT RACE SATURDAY 13 AUGUST

Fancy leaping into the River Thames, canoeing and scrambling over assault courses? Rat Race, which takes place at London Docklands, is open to all. This challenging 10k event sees participants take on 35 obstacles, including a huge water slide, to raise money for homeless charity Shelter. www.ratrace.com/londonratrace2016

KIDS WEEK 2016

MONDAY 1-WEDNESDAY 31 AUGUST

Despite its title, this event lets children watch London’s best theatre shows for free all month. Now in its 19th year, Kids Week encourages young people to experience the theatre by offering free tickets to more than 35 West End shows. One child under 16 goes free with every adult paying full price, and two extra children can go for half price. There are no booking, postage or transaction fees, and families can also take advantage of deals on dining, tours and workshops. Pick from The Tiger Who Came to Tea, The Lion King, The Woman in Black, Wicked (above) and more. www.kidsweek.co.uk www.wheretraveler.com 7

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SHANGHAI OPERA COMPANY THURSDAY 11-SUNDAY 14 AUGUST

Shanghai Opera House makes its UK debut with the European premiere of Thunderstorm at the London Coliseum. Composed by Mo Fan, and conducted by Zhang Guoyong, the opera centres around the wealthy Zhou family’s complex web of affairs during a storm. www.eno.org

NOTTING HILL CARNIVAL SUNDAY 28-MONDAY 29 AUGUST

Notting Hill Carnival began in 1964 as a way for local AfroCaribbeans to celebrate their culture. Since then, it’s grown into Europe’s largest street festival. It brings a riot of colour and music to the streets of Notting Hill every August bank holiday. Expect steel bands, sound systems, a parade of revealing costumes and a lot of jerk chicken… www.thenottinghillcarnival.com

LONDON CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL FRIDAY 12-SUNDAY 14 AUGUST

Discover 30 of the world’s best breweries at the London Craft Beer Festival in Bethnal Green. Tickets include a tasting glass and unlimited samples, so pace yourself! Participating breweries include Beavertown, Weird Beard, Gipsy Hill Brewing Company and Howling Hops, as well as a host of international gems. www.londoncraftbeerfestival.co.uk

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HOT DATES

AUGUST

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Watch Chekhov’s Platonov, Ivanov or The Seagull at the National Theatre Listen to the brass band, Hackney Colliery Band, play live at Battersea Arts Centre American brass trio Too Many Zooz is playing at Islington Assembly Hall Laugh along on the last day of the Cutty Sark Comedy Festival in Greenwich (p. 30) Kids will love the new Horrible Histories: The Best of Barmy Britain at the Apollo Be the first to see Curtain Call, a 360° immersive work, at the Roundhouse Go to Caught by the River Thames , a gig and literary festival at Fulham Palace Go to Michael McIntyre’s Work in Progress comedy show at the Duchess Theatre Attend Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland outdoors at Opera Holland Park Watch The Burnt Part Boys, about a mining accident, at Finsbury Park’s Park Theatre Sample up to 900 flavours at the Great British Beer Festival at London Olympia Attend the opening night of They Drink it in the Congo at Islington’s Almeida Theatre It’s the final night of Romeo and Juliet at the Garrick Theatre (p. 59) See Celebrating Charlotte Brontë 1816-1855 at the National Portrait Gallery (p. 45) Mercury Prize-nominee Róisín Murphy sings pop at the Globe Theatre Hire a pedal or rowing boat on the Serpentine Lake in Hyde Park It’s the first night of Echoes of Eternity by the Shanghai Ballet at London Coliseum Kids will love the new Scooby-Doo Live! Musical Mysteries at the London Palladium Ride the Tube all night – the Central and Victoria lines now run 24 hours a day Catch the opening night of Radio Times, a musical at Charing Cross Theatre Sit on a deckchair and watch the Olympics for free on a big screen in Paddington See the music legend Quincy Jones perform at the Royal Albert Hall (p. 61) Listen to stand-up comedy by Ola, Ben Norris and more at The Comedy Store Watch The Roundabout, a comedy about a dysfunctional family, at Park Theatre Watch ballerina Irina Kolesnikova in Her Name Was Carmen at London Coliseum Listen to live music at Paddington Covers Reading in Norfolk Square Gardens Take tissues and confetti to attend a mass wedding at the Southbank Centre Shimmy to music through the capital’s streets at the Notting Hill Carnival (p. 37) Visit the last day of Above and Beyond at the National Maritime Museum Greenwich Try the limited-edition Elizabeth Afternoon Tea aboard the London Eye (p. 31) Sunbathe on real sand on the last day of the temporary beach at Royal Docks

PREVIOUS PAGES: ARSENAL © DAVID PRICE; HAMPTON COURT PALACE COURTESY OF BBC GOOD FOOD FESTIVAL; RAT RACE © TOM MILES; KIDS WEEK (WICKED) © MATT CROCKETT. THIS PAGE: DANCE COURTESY OF SHANGHAI OPERA COMPANY; NOTTING HILL CARNIVAL © VISIT LONDON IMAGES/BRITAIN ON VIEW/JON SPAULL; PINT OF BEER © ISTOCK

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Clockwise from top: Olympic Stadium; Lee Valley Hockey and Tennis Centre; Velodrome; BeachEast; parklands around the Stadium and Peter Tudor, the Park’s director

OLYMPICS A

four

years on

As the world watches Rio host the Olympic Games, Sam Rogg looks at the regeneration of east London and finds out how you can join in the fun

s the world unites for the greatest sporting event on Earth – the Olympic Games (5-21 Aug) – we can’t help but feel that this year’s host, Rio de Janeiro, has a tough act to follow. It’s four years since the Queen ‘parachuted’ into London’s Olympic Stadium as part of an unforgettable opening ceremony that set the tone for the rest of the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games. Directed by Danny Boyle, the ceremony was a celebration of everything that makes Britain great, from Shakespeare and David Bowie to the NHS and multiculturalism. London’s Games were flawless and fabulous – even the weather was good! But what lasting impact did they have? Before the 2012 Games, you might not have considered visiting Stratford (not to be confused with Stratford-upon-Avon), but now it’s one of the most exciting boroughs in the capital, dubbed the ‘new east London’ thanks

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to the multi-billion-pound Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. ‘East London is a melting pot of different interests and perspectives with a vibrant culture like nowhere else in London,’ says Peter Tudor, the Park’s director of visitor services. ‘Just across the Park in Hackney Wick is one of the greatest concentration of artists anywhere in Europe and we have the Theatre Royal Stratford East, too.’ Nearby you’ll also find the largest shopping mall in Europe, Westfield Stratford City, with more than 200 stores, 70 dining spots and a new 65,000ft casino, Aspers, with its own 24-hour restaurant, cocktail and sports bars. Inside the former Olympic Park, you can soak up the sunshine across 560 acres of lush parklands and waterways that attract diverse wildlife. ‘We have already achieved Green Flag status for our green credentials and last year we introduced a number of beehives which have already produced 60 jars of honey,’ says

Tudor. This summer, the popular BeachEast returns for a second year with its vast stretch of white sand, paddling pool, fun-fair rides and a carnival atmosphere to rival Rio’s. Take part in free activities such as beach volleyball, paddle boarding and a monthly 10k race. Over in the Park’s East Village, 3,000 people now live in former athletes’ accommodation, surrounded by trendy bars and cafés. Tudor’s advice? ‘Signorelli does a great cup of coffee, and any cocktail bar with the name Tina, We Salute You has to be worth a visit,’ he says. Make the most of the Park in full bloom and take a boat trip along the canal or hire a bike from the Santander Cycles docking stations to explore some hidden gems – we recommend the Great British Garden near the Stadium, themed on the colours of Olympic medals: bronze, silver and gold. Or why not relive the magic of London 2012 and visit the venues where records were broken? Whether you’re a spectator or a budding Olympian, there’s something for everyone. On your marks, get set, go!

OLYMPIC STADIUM © ISABEL INFANTES; HOCKEY © ADY KERRY; VELODROME © LIGHTWORK PHOTOS LTD; BEACHEAST COURTESY OF OLYMPIC PARK; PARKLANDS © DAVID POULTNEY FOR THE LLDC; PETER TUDOR COURTESY OF QUEEN ELIZABETH OLYMPIC PARK

WHERE NOW | OLYMPICS

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WHERE NOW | OLYMPICS Clockwise from top: Top of the slide at ArcelorMittal Orbit; Mo Farah at the Olympic Stadium; Aquatics Centre

AQUATICS CENTRE Designed by the late Zaha Hadid, this spectacular centre, with its distinctive wave-like roof and state-of-the-art facilities, is open to people of all ages and abilities. It can seat 2,500 spectators, but don’t let that put you off taking a dip. There is a wide range of fun and family-friendly activities, as well as lane swimming, diving lessons and professional training sessions. OLYMPIC HIGHLIGHT: When American swimmer Michael Phelps became the greatest Olympian in the history of the Games during a turbulent relay race in which he won his 19th Olympic medal. THE COPPER BOX ARENA Handball, fencing, badminton, gymnastics… this arena attracts lots of local sports clubs these days, while also hosting everything from heavyweight boxing matches to pop concerts. Later this year, you can watch the 2016 National Taekwondo Championships (24-25 Sep), Winmau World Darts Masters (24-27 Nov) and England Roses vs Jamaica’s Sunshine Girls in the Vitality Netball International Series (29 Nov). OLYMPIC HIGHLIGHT: Dubbed the ‘box that rocks’, this venue hosted goalball events in the Paralympics. Invented in 1946 to rehabilitate World War II soldiers, it involves visually impaired athletes throwing a ball with a bell towards a defended goal.

THE STADIUM The Park’s most recognisable venue is the only arena in the UK to host both world-class football and athletics events. When it’s not staging major international sports meetings, the stadium is used for entertainment, including a massive AC/DC concert earlier this summer. This month, it’s all about the beautiful game, though, as the stadium becomes the new home of West Ham United FC – the biggest and most successful British stadium move in the modern era. See the club take on Juventus in an international friendly on 7 Aug, and book your tickets now for next year’s World ParaAthletics Championships (14-23 Jul 2017) and the IAAF World Championships (4-13 Aug 2017). This will be the first time that both Championships are held in the same summer, in the same city! OLYMPIC HIGHLIGHT: When distance runner Mo Farah became the first Briton to win the 10,000m gold medal. Born in Somalia but raised in west London, Farah was seen as an image of modern Britain and hailed as a national treasure. ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT Whizz up the UK’s tallest sculpture in a lift and enjoy views across London’s famous skyline. On a clear day, you can see for 32km in a panorama that takes in iconic buildings, including The View from The Shard, the

Houses of Parliament and the ‘Gherkin’. What goes up must come down, so if you’re a thrill-seeker then you’re in for a treat. Why not abseil down the sculpture, or zoom down the world’s tallest and longest tunnel slide? Created by Belgian artist Carsten Höller, this is no ordinary helter-skelter ride. It stretches almost 590ft long and 249ft high; as you rush down, you can reach speeds of up to 24km per hour! OLYMPIC HIGHLIGHT: Designed by Turner Prize-winning sculptor Sir Anish Kapoor and engineer Cecil Balmond, the Orbit became a powerful symbol of a neglected part of London suddenly transformed. LEE VALLEY VELOPARK Track cycling, road racing, BMX and mountain biking – this iconic venue has it all. Burn some rubber inside the awardwinning, 6,000-seat velodrome or head outside and feel the wind in your hair as you tackle dozens of bumps, jumps and berms on the remodelled Olympic BMX track. The 1.6km road circuit is floodlit and there’s 8km of traffic-free mountain bike trails if you prefer to get off the beaten track. OLYMPIC HIGHLIGHT: When married couple Sarah and Barney Storey won a staggering five gold medals and one silver between them for Team Great Britain in the Paralympic cycling events.

ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT COURTESY OF ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT; MO FARAH COURTESY OF SAINSBURY’S GAMES; AQUATICS CENTRE COURTESY OF OLYMPIC PARK

- A GUIDE TO LONDON’S OLYMPIC PARK -

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WHERE NOW | OLYMPICS

- WHERE TO WATCH THE RIO OLYMPIC GAMES -

“If you fancy more sport, you can play pool or ping pong while you watch”

Somerset House and St Katharine Docks, and a range of food and drink packages. The set menu includes two glasses of house wine or lager plus eight substantial canapés each for just £25 per person. All major events will be screened in the Canary Wharf bar. Various venues. www.tomskitchen.co.uk RILEYS SPORTS BAR Possibly the ultimate sports bar in central London, Rileys boasts no less than 34 big screens and four giant screens showing sporting events from around the world. If you fancy a bit more sport with your sport, you can also play pool or ping pong while you watch. Four bars (including a VIP bar), DJs and an American-style diner make it the ideal choice for anyone wanting to make a day or night of their Olympic viewing. 80 Haymarket, SW1Y 4TE. T: 020-7930 0393. www.rileys.co.uk

CAMINO BANKSIDE’S GIN GARDEN Catch all the Olympic action while topping up your tan at this beautiful Spanish-inspired riverside terrace hidden on the South Bank. Mediterranean décor and terracotta tones surround the bar, and there are tapas-style nibbles to keep you going between events. 5 Canvey St, SE1 9AN. T: 020-3617 3169. www.camino.uk.com/gin-garden SOPHIE’S STEAKHOUSE This 220-seat West End bar and restaurant is not your average steakhouse – expect a party atmosphere and prime cuts of native breeds, butchered daily to create chef cuts such as Porterhouse and T-bone. The 10oz Martinis alone are worth a visit, but the large screen showing Olympic events seals the deal. Call ahead for details. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB. T: 020-7836 8836. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk ¾

Clockwise from top: Tom’s Kitchen; Rileys Sports Bar; Sophie’s Steakhouse

TOM’S KITCHEN © DAVID GRIFFEN PHOTOGRAPHY; RILEYS COURTESY OF RILEYS; MEAT ROOM AT SOPHIE’S STEAKHOUSE

TOM’S KITCHEN Opened by Michelin-starred chef Tom Aikens, Tom’s Kitchen is a refined option for the Games. Escape the crowds huddled around screens in busy pubs with an exclusive private viewing of the Games at this much-loved British restaurant. Choose from branches in Chelsea, Canary Wharf,

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TM & © 2016 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR.

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WHERE NOW | HIDDEN LONDON

THE

Top-secret bunkers, abandoned Tube stations and London’s first skyscraper: Kohinoor Sahota discovers hidden locations across the capital

SECRET’S OUT Down Street would have been the closest Tube station. We look forward to welcoming guests so they can experience London’s history as well as our own.’ The bunkers may be gloomy, but you can add some glamour to the proceedings with an afternoon tea. In Galvin at the Athenaeum, the new restaurant created by Michelin-starred brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin, the tea is themed around London’s hidden locations and is served in a room overlooking Green Park. In 2012, the Tea Guild gave it the ‘Best Afternoon Tea in London’ award, so you

know that this will certainly be a high tea. And, if you are wondering where those handbags come from and what curry house it is – it’s Launer and Khas Tandoori in Kensal Rise respectively. Just don’t tell anyone… Check for dates. T: 020-7565 7298. www.ltmuseum.co.uk

“DOWN STREET STATION WAS A BOMB-PROOF BUNKER FOR SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL”

IMAGES COURTESY OF LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM; SKYLINE © ISTOCK

K

eeping a secret in London is difficult. So much can easily be discovered, from where the Queen buys her handbags to the curry house loved by the former Prime Minister David Cameron. When something tries to remain hush-hush, it often gains more attention, such as speakeasystyle bars behind unassuming doors and the immersive Secret Cinema, which often gives you clues to work out what films are being screened. The London Transport Museum – filled with old and new vehicles, including the world’s first Underground steam train – has created tours across locations that are not normally open to the public. There are four tours: London’s first skyscraper at 55 Broadway, once London Underground’s headquarters; Euston Station’s tunnels that are no longer used; Clapham South’s subterranean shelter; and Churchill’s secret Tube station at Down Street in Mayfair (pictured). These tours require a lot of walking, so wear your most sturdy shoes – if you have heels or opentoe shoes on, you may be refused entry. During World War II, Clapham South’s subterranean shelter and Down Street were both used as a place of refuge. Clapham South’s shelter, which is 180 steps below the ground, protected Londoners during the Blitz and housed Caribbean migrants before they found jobs and accommodation. Down Street, meanwhile – a short-lived station that was open between 1907 and 1932 – was a bomb-proof bunker for Sir Winston Churchill. For the Down Street tour, the Transport Museum has teamed up with the recently refurbished Athenaeum Hotel and Residences to create an enhanced experience for visitors. Jeremy Hopkins, general manager of the hotel, says: ‘Our apartments were built in 1890 so

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WHERE NOW | HIDDEN LONDON

Visit secret spaces, from the hospital that performed the world’s first successful Caesarean to the city’s only Roman baths ADMIRALTY ARCH During a royal coronation, wedding or funeral, you will often see a procession pass under Admiralty Arch. The Grade I-listed building, completed in 1912, is at the opposite end of Buckingham Palace. Look closely at the inside of the northernmost arch and you will see a curious thing: a nose poking out of the wall. Rumour had it that it was put there in honour of the Duke of Wellington, who was known to have a large nose. In fact, it was created by artist Rick Buckley to complain about the country becoming a nosy, CCTV-reliant society. The Mall, SW1A 2WH ‘NAZI DOG’ BURIAL PLACE There is only one memorial to a Nazi in the country: Giro the dog’s grave. German ambassador Leopold von Hoesch lived in Carlton House, just off The Mall. In 1934, his dog, an Alsatian, was accidentally electrocuted. Hoesch buried his beloved pet in the back garden, and the grave can be peered at by visitors. The epitaph reads: ‘A faithful companion.’ Carlton House Terrace, St James’s, SW1Y 5AH A SPEAKEASY BAR Once you have found the discreet door, you descend down some dark stairs into what appears to be a 1920s office before being

interrogated by a detective. He finally pulls a lever, a bookcase rotates and a bar is revealed. Welcome to Evans & Peel Detective Agency, part of the speakeasy trend that has gripped the capital. In this haunt, savvy visitors can discover the illicit thrill of Prohibition bars – without the risk of being raided by police. 310c Earl’s Court Rd, SW5 9BA KYOTO GARDEN Central London is full of still, small oases of calm, if you know where to look. Visit the Kyoto Garden in Holland Park, which boasts a waterfall, koi carp, a stone bridge and roaming peacocks. The garden was donated by the Chamber of Commerce of Kyoto in 1991, and is a much-loved gem. 112-114 Holland Park Avenue, W11 4UA OLD OPERATING THEATRE MUSEUM & HERB GARRET Climb a winding staircase into the Old Operating Theatre, which was built in 1822 as part of St Thomas’ Hospital as a surgery for women. The theatre was a gruesome place to visit: students would watch procedures taking place where no anaesthesia or antiseptic were used. They included amputations that would be over in a minute, and one of the world’s first Caesarean sections in which the mother and child survived. The latter was performed by Dr James Barry, a woman who hid her gender in order to work. When you visit, you’ll find instruments used to carry out operations, such as an amputation set with a saw. It is not for the faint-hearted! 9a St Thomas St, SE1 9RY

Clockwise from top: Old Operating Theatre Museum; Viktor Wynd Museum of Curiosities; Kyoto Garden

SAVOY MUSEUM The Savoy, which opened in 1889, is one of London’s most luxurious hotels – and you don’t even have to stay here for a glimpse of its fascinating history. Loved by actors, inside you will see the guest cards of Frank Sinatra, Ava Gardner and Charlie Chaplin. Marlene Dietrich’s guest card reveals her request for 12 pink roses and a bottle of Dom Pérignon. There is also Noël Coward’s lighter and cigarette, and the first bottle of Champagne the hotel poured when it opened. Strand, WC2R 0EU VIKTOR WYND MUSEUM OF CURIOSITIES, FINE ART & NATURAL HISTORY Extinct bird feathers, a giant anteater’s skeleton and dodo bones – this little shop of horrors is one of the most unusual museums you’ll find in London. This tiny space in Hackney holds exhibitions and talks, from a petting zoo evening where you can get close to pythons, frogs and tarantulas, to taxidermy classes. It was founded by artist Viktor Wynd, who also runs fairytale-like balls which involve dressing up in masks and dancing the Charleston. 11 Mare St, E8 4RP ANCIENT ROMAN BATHS London’s only Roman baths, which appear to be a plunge pool, are close to Embankment Station. The baths were first written about in 1784 by John Pinkerton as a ‘fine antique bath’, and in Charles Dickens’ David Copperfield, the protagonist uses the old Roman Bath ‘at the bottom of one of the streets out of the Strand’. The baths are free to visit on Wednesday afternoons, but you must book ahead. 5 Strand Lane, WC2R ¾

OLD OPERATING THEATRE COURTESY OF HIDDEN LONDON; VIKTOR WYND © OSKAR PROCTOR; KYOTO GARDEN COURTESY OF KYOTO GARDEN

SECRET SIGHTS

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F LY I N TO H O U S E O F F R A S E R . F LY O U T W I T H T H E H OT T E S T B R A N D S . Biba | Urban Decay | Kurt Geiger | Dior | Michael Kors Lancôme | Polo Ralph Lauren | Ted Baker | Clarins | Kenneth Cole Oxford St | Westfield London Suitcase not sold at House of Fraser

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE | WHERE LONDON

AMERICAN EXPRESS® YOUR CARD FOR LONDON

WELCOME TO LONDON This vibrant city is a melting pot for fashion, art, and culture. There are many reasons why we love London; it is home to The Royal Family, overflows with grand architecture, is rich in history and is jam-packed with award-winning restaurants, bustling bars and delicious dining hot spots on every corner.

T

o help you make the most of the culinary treats this city provides, American Express has partnered with restaurants across London to present a range of great, exclusive summer dining offers. Below are a select few of the excellent restaurant offers available for you to enjoy between 1 June – 30 September when you pay with your American Express Card View the map included in this magazine to discover other exclusive American Express summer dining offers, or visit yourcardforlondon.co.uk

Tramshed Mark Hix’s chicken-and-steak restaurant within a former East End tram-generator building features an installation by Damien Hirst and a menu designed around chicken and steak to share, alongside seasonal starters and puddings. hixrestaurants.co.uk/restaurant/tramshed

Enjoy 35% off the à la carte menu* *To redeem, please book by calling +44 (0) 20 7749 0478 and quote ‘Amex’. Offer valid for à la carte menu only. Maximum six guests per booking.

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Jamie’s Italian

Gordon Ramsay

Jamie’s Italian is all about serving up rustic, Italian food made using some of the best possible ingredients. The menu is based on dishes you’d find people eating all over Italy, made with care but delivered without fuss. jamiesitalian.com

Enjoy a complimentary glass of Prosecco or Orange juice spritz with any main meal ordered* *To redeem, visit jamiesitalian.com/amex to receive a unique code via email and present at the restaurant. Offer includes one free glass of Prosecco or Orange juice spritz per customer ordering a main course only. Participating Jamie’s Italian locations only: Angel, Bluewater, Canary Wharf, Covent Garden, Gatwick, Greenwich, London Bridge, Ludgate Hill, Piccadilly, Threadneedle Street, Victoria, Westfield Shepherd’s Bush, Westfield Stratford and Jamie’s Trattoria Richmond.

Gaucho

Complete your stay in London by visiting acclaimed chef, restaurateur, TV personality and author, Gordon Ramsay’s Restaurant and Bars. His restaurants specialise in unique experiences that take you on a journey of culinary discovery from fine to more casual dining. gordonramsayrestaurants.com

Enjoy 20% off your bill* *To redeem, book online or call a participating Gordon Ramsay Group restaurant, and quote ‘20% Amex’ upon arrival. Participating restaurants: Maze, Maze Grill, Mayfair, Park Walk and Royal Hospital Road, York & Albany, Narrow, Union Street Cafe, Heddon Street Kitchen and Plane Food.

Your Card is welcome across London Gaucho restaurants believe that every guest should experience a little bit of Argentine life – serving quality beef from the Pampas of Argentina and offering events, masterclasses and tables within a truly glamorous setting. gauchorestaurants.com

Enjoy a complimentary glass of Chandon Sparkling wine* *To redeem offer, please call the Gaucho central VIP number on +44 (0) 203 281 6682 and quote ‘Amex’ when booking. Maximum 16 guests per booking. Valid for all UK restaurants.

Terms and Conditions: To redeem the offers, follow the steps outlined on the map or website, and pay using your American Express Card. Offers are available between 1 June – 30 September 2016. Discounts do not include tax or gratuity and cannot be used with any other offers or specials. Terms apply. American Express Services Europe Limited has its registered office at Belgrave House, 76 Buckingham Palace Road, London, SW1W 9AX, United Kingdom. It is registered in England and Wales with Company Number 1833139 and authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority.

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

Top Pick ON GUARD! SpongeBob SquarePants is given a London twist – he is dressed as the Queen’s guard Guard Plush Yellow, Nickelodeon Store, Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA, £18

FROM LONDON School’s out! Take your pick from this month’s must-have items for children, from cuddly toys to gifts for newborns

BABY LOVE Harrods gift set includes a bodysuit, Babygro, hat, mittens, booties and bib New Baby Boy Gift Set, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL, £69.95

LITTLE ROCKER Treat your little one to this goat-leather jacket Gucci Leather Jacket, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB, £1,370

BY THE BOOK An A6 notebook shows a royal carriage, a white horse and a friendly corgi Royal Carriage Notebook, Buckingham Palace Shop, 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP, £5.95

BUG BAG A gorgeous crossbody bag from the iconic British brand, Burberry Ladybird Canvas Check and Leather Crossbody Bag, Burberry, 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB, £350

F c rs. w you out ho ys’ characte Hamle to p. 58 Turn

BEAR NECESSITIES Choose a bear from Hamleys, London’s iconic toy store I Love London bear, Hamleys, 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT, £15

TIME FOR TEA A mini tea set, inspired by Alice in Wonderland Miniature Mad Hatter’s Tea Party, Benjamin Pollock’s Toyshop, 44 The Market, Covent Garden, WC2E 8RF, £165

A PERSONAL TOUCH Pick the colour of the pony logo and monogram the dress with initials Mesh Polo Dress, Polo Ralph Lauren, 1 New Bond St, W1S 3LU, £75

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK

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WOMEN SHAPE THE WORLD WE SHAPE THEIR SHOES

SEE THE NEW 2016 AUTUMN/WINTER COLLECTION IN STORES NOW ECCO OXFORD STREET 445 Oxford Street, W1C 2PP London +44 207 629 10 16

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Grand designs

A royal residence Clarence House, the official London residence of the Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall, is open again for summer. Designed by John Nash and built between 1825 and 1827, the three-storey building near Buckingham Palace on The Mall has been a royal home for 189 years – this is where Prince Charles spent his toddler years. The royal family also uses the house as a venue to receive royal and political guests for seminars and official meals. Visits take about an hour, which includes a 45-minute guided tour that starts in the garden. While the basement and top three floors are off limits, visitors on the tours will be guided around the five rooms on the ground floor where official engagements take place – The Lancaster Room, The Morning Room, The Library, The Dining Room and The Garden Room. Along the way you’ll see ornamental plasterwork, antique furniture, silver, porcelain and 20th-century paintings by Graham Sutherland. Clarence House’s curator of paintings, Anna Reynolds, points out the tour’s highlights.

She says: ‘Visitors can see unusual paintings collected by Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, which represent many of the bestknown artists of the modern period. These include Monet’s 1889 Study of Rocks and Paul Nash’s 1943 Landscape of the Vernal Equinox, which hang in the light-filled Morning Room, as well as paintings by Philip de László, Walter Sickert and Henri Fantin-Latour. ‘A series of watercolour views of Windsor by John Piper hang in The Dining Room, commissioned during the war as a record of the castle in case of bomb damage. These are presided over by a portrait of Queen Elizabeth wearing a sequin-covered ball gown, painted by Augustus John in 1939. Also on display are important Old Masters including Veronese’s Mystic Marriage of Saint Catherine, presented to Charles II upon his restoration in 1660, and Bassano’s animal-packed Noah’s Ark .’ At the end of the tour, you’ll have a chance to pop into the shop to buy china, jewellery and books as a memento of your visit. Clarence House, St James's Palace, SW1 1BA. T: 020-7766 7303. www.royalcollection.org.uk

FROGMORE HOUSE Groups that book ahead can also have an after-hours guided tour of this 300-year-old property (2-27 Aug; above), which the royal family uses for private entertaining. A twohour tour includes a glass of Champagne in the Colonnade Room, which overlooks the lake and garden. Home Park, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ

STATE ROOMS AT BUCKINGHAM PALACE Celebrate the Queen’s 90th birthday with the exhibition Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen’s Wardrobe (to 2 Oct). Caroline de Guitaut, the senior curator of decorative arts for the Royal Collection Trust, says: ‘It is the largest display of the Queen’s wardrobe and features incredible examples of British couture. Highlights include Norman Hartnell’s primrose yellow dress which the Queen wore in 1969 when Prince Charles was invested as the Prince of Wales.’ As well as colourful outfits and hats – the Queen often wears yellow to stand out – you can see her off-duty riding jacket and jodhpurs. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1A 1AA

CLARENCE HOUSE AND FROGMORE HOUSE © ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2016

Visitors can soak in the splendour of Clarence House, the London home of the Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall, this August, says Sarah Riches

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE WHERE PASS LONDON, VISIT WHEREPASSLONDON.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89

Eye of the tiger At ZSL London Zoo (p. 32) you can watch people earning their stripes as they Streak for Tigers to raise money for the plight of wild tigers. The annual event, which is now in its fourth year, has 300 spaces to reflect the number of Sumatran tigers left in the wild. Open to men and women aged over 18, the after-hours event starts at 7pm and sees participants strip naked before sprinting, dancing and even cartwheeling along a five-minute route, past bearded pigs and primates. Many of the people taking part paint themselves as tigers and run several laps. In fact, word has it that some get so carried away they have to be asked to stop! Go early to see the zoo’s recently opened Land of the Lions exhibition, and enjoy afternoon tea. Animal-shaped sandwiches and lion cupcakes, anyone?

Apsley House The former home of the Duke of Wellington. Please check for prices and times. www.englishheritage.org.uk/apsleyhouse. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Banqueting House Contains an exquisite painted ceiling by artist Peter Paul Rubens. Mon-Sun 10am-1pm, but check before visiting (last ticket 3.15pm on 5 Aug). Adult £6.60; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with donkeys, chinchillas and goats. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £8.95; child £6.95. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 0207924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Buckingham Palace The residence and workplace of the monarchy. To 2 Oct: Opening of the State Rooms. The palace is usually closed to the public, but is open with the display Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen’s Wardrobe (to 2 Oct). Daily 9.15am-5.15pm. Adult £21.50; child £12.30. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Green Park.

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SIGHTSEEING Changing the Guard At 11.30am every odd day, watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt. There is no ceremony in very wet weather. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. www.changing-the-guard.com. The Changing the Life Guard Ceremony takes place Mon-Fri 11am; Sun 10am – check for last-minute changes. When the sentries change, trumpeters play. www.royal.gov.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Chelsea Physic Garden

Dish the dirt You may have heard of an artwork made from a cow, but dust? It might sound odd but even dust tells a story – especially when the dirt concerned comes from the Houses of Parliament (p. 30). As the Gothic venue opens for summer, it is airing its dirty linen in public in the form of The Ethics of Dust (to 1 Sep). The artist, architect and conservationist Jorge Otero-Pailos has created a translucent latex cast of Westminster Hall’s internal east wall that reveals hundreds of years of grime. Visitors can see it hanging from the hall’s 28m-high hammerbeam roof, which is the oldest part of Parliament. The artwork’s title is inspired by an 1866 publication by the Victorian writer John Ruskin, in which he acknowledged pollution was damaging buildings.

London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal ones and tropical plants in glasshouses. 4 Aug: Behind the Scenes at the Physic Garden. See parts of the garden that are usually off limits to the public and learn gardening tips from the head gardener. 4 Aug: Scented Decadence. Talk about perfume. Tue-Fri & Sun 11am-6pm. Adult £9.50; child £6.95. www.chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

The Crystal The world’s first centre dedicated to urban sustainability, which aims to educate visitors about future global challenges and their solutions. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £8; child free. www.the crystal.org. 1 Siemens Brothers Way, Royal Victoria Docks, E16 1GB. T: 020-7055 6400. Off map. Station: Royal Victoria.

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SIGHTSEEING Cutty Sark

Dr Johnson’s House

Fulham Palace

PASS PARTNER This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Daily 10am-5.15pm. Adult £12.15; child £6.30. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Dr Samuel Johnson compiled the first dictionary, first published in 1755, in this home. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.dr johnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now it’s a museum with gardens, a café and art gallery. 3 Aug: The Art Marquee. Children can make pizza. Book in advance. 25 Aug: A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Museum, historic rooms and shop. MonThur 12.30pm-4.30pm; Sun noon-5pm. Admission free; charges for special events. www.fulham palace.org. Bishop’s Avenue, SW6 6EA. T: 0207736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

Dennis Severs’ House Ten rooms illustrate the life of Huguenot silk weavers. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm. Adult £4.50; child £1.50. www.dennis severshouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Eltham Palace & Gardens Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds. www.english-heritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness. Enthusiastic staff are on hand throughout the three-and-a-half-hour experience. Daily from 9.30am. Adult £33; child £18-£25. www.goape. co.uk/battersea-park. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0845-643 9236. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Golden Hinde II A full-size reconstruction of Sir Francis Drake’s 16th-century vessel, in which he circumnavigated the globe. Regular events include dressing up in historical costumes. 10 & 24 Aug: Quiz & Chips Night. A quiz night. 12 Aug: Tiller Flat Folk Music Club. Live folk music. Charges for special events. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Guided tour adult £7; child £5. www.goldenhinde.com. 1 Pickfords Wharf, Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0123. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses. Its gardens are said to be haunted. House noon4pm; café, garden & shop 10am-5pm. Adult £10.40; child £5.20. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

Handel & Hendrix in London The former homes of Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was in 1968-69. 5 Aug: Friday Late. Open late with candlelight. 18 Aug: A Chanter. Live performance. 31 Aug: Mind the Gap. Classical guitarist performance. Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm; Sun noon-6pm. Both houses adult £10; child £5. Handel house adult £7.50; child £3. www.handel house.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. 6, 13, 20 & 27 Aug: Ship Shape Saturdays: Signals at Sea. Learn how the Royal Navy sent signals between ships using lights, codes and flags. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament The site of British Parliament since 1265, this neo-gothic building was constructed in the 19th century. Hear Big Ben chime in its clock tower and watch debates for free from the Public Galleries (p. 28). Guided and audio tours Mon-Fri (not 29 Aug). Guided tour adult £25.50; child £11. Audio tour adult £18.50; child £7.50 (first child free). www.parliament.uk/visiting. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster. 30 W H E R E LO N D O N I AU G U S T 2016

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SIGHTSEEING The Jewel Tower

The London Dungeon

Coca-Cola London Eye

Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

PASS PARTNER Spectacular sets, actors and special effects evoke ghoulish encounters from 1,000 years of Britain’s murky past in a grimly comedic style. During your journey you meet characters including Jack the Ripper, Guy Fawkes and Sweeney Todd. Not for small children or the faint-hearted! Joint tickets with London Aquarium, London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Mon-Wed & Fri 10am-5pm; Thur 11am-5pm; Sat 10am-6.30pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £28.95; child £24.45. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-423 2240. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

PASS PARTNER This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Located on the River Thames, it offers a prime position to see the city’s attractions. Interactive screens in each pod give an insight into the landmarks on view. Private capsules can be hired: Cupid’s Capsule, Hotel Chocolat Tasting Capsule and Dining at 135. Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Daily 10am-9.30pm. Adult £24.95; child £18.95. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart Fanny Brawne. Check for details of poetry readings and talks. WedSun 11am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.city oflondon.gov.uk/keatshouse hampstead. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace This royal residence was Princess Diana’s last home. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £16.30; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

THE STATE ROOMS BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house with its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and a magnificent art collection made up of paintings by Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough. 2-3, 7, 9-10, 16-17, 23-24 & 30-31 Aug: Kids’ Crafts. Family-friendly activities for children. 5, 12, 19 & 26 Aug: Curator’s Tour of Kenwood. An insight into the house. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kew Palace PASS PARTNER This royal retreat in the grounds of Kew Gardens was home to King George III. Don’t miss the Royal Kitchens where you can discover more about the servants who worked in them and Georgian culinary life. There is also a Madame Tussaud’s bust of George III, which is a reproduction taken from an original mould. Daily 10.30am-5pm. Admission free with Kew Gardens tickets. www.hrp. org.uk. Kew Gardens, Richmond, TW9 3AB. T: 0844482 7777. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

23 July – 2 October 2016

KidZania London Children can try out different careers including working in TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory, pit lane and aviation academy – even a tattoo parlour! The indoor theme park is a city built to scale for children, complete with buildings, paved streets, vehicles and a functioning economy. Daily from 10am; check for closing times. Adult £18; child £31-£33.50. www.london. kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this spine-tingling scary attraction to life. Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Daily 9.30am; Mon-Fri to 5pm; Sat-Sun to 6pm. Adult £26.95; child £21.45. www.thelondon bridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Dazzling dresses, magnificent State Rooms, a unique celebration Book in advance at www.royalcollection.org.uk or call +44 (0)303 123 7300 www.wheretraveler.com 31

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SIGHTSEEING ZSL London Zoo

Madame Tussauds

PASS PARTNER PASS PARTNER Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than depicting famous people from the worlds of 750 species. As well as an aquarium, penguin entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the beach and endangered Sumatran tigers (p. 26), Queen to Adele. Pose with your favourite legend you can see its Land of the Lions enclosure, with and visit the terrifying Chamber of Horrors and Asiatic lions in surroundings designed to resemble Scream experiences. Don’t miss the permanent an Indian national park. Zoo experiences are Star Wars exhibition, featuring 11 sets from the film. also available – you can be a zoo keeper for a Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London day or have a VIP animal encounter. Charges for Dungeon, London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! special events. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £25.50; available. Please check for times. Adult £34; child 05/08/2015 16:08 child £18.50.BBTLDTWhereLondon_190x118_050815 www.zsl.org. London Zoo, Regent’s copy.pdf £29.50. 1www.madametussauds.com/london. Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Camden Town. Station: Baker Street.

SIGHTSEEING BUS TOUR

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The Monument This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £4; child £2. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.info. The Monument, Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

The O2 London’s leading performance venue houses many bars and restaurants. You can climb over the dome. To 31 Aug: I am the Greatest: Muhammad Ali. Explore the life of the late, great boxer Muhammad Ali. Find out about his humble Kentucky beginnings and his rise to become a three-time heavyweight world champion known as The Greatest. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £18; child £9. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. Check for guided tours. Daily, please check for opening times and events. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. Check for sporting events (p. 10). Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Ripley’s Believe It or Not!

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PASS PARTNER This curiosity-filled museum with over 700 artefacts is a hit across the globe. Explore a range of oddities, from a shrunken head to the world’s tallest man. Daily 10am-midnight (last entrance 10.30pm). Adult £27.95; child £20.95. www.ripleyslondon.com. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 020-3238 0022. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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LIVE OR

FREE RIVER CRUISE

3 FREE WALKING TOURS

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FREE

NIGHT TOUR

WITH 48 HOUR TICKET

RECORDED COMMENTARY

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew PASS PARTNER Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda. The Xstrata Treetop Walkway offers great views. You can also experience The Hive, an enormous aluminium structure modelled on a beehive. Music and lights play inside it in response to a real beehive (p. 45). Gardens Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. To 27 Aug: Fri-Sat last entry 8pm. Adult £15; child £3.50. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

The Royal Institution of Great Britain For great online savings visit:

BIGBUSTOURS.COM/LONDON or speak to your concierge

Grade I-listed building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work. Check for its talks. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.

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SIGHTSEEING The Royal Mews

St Paul’s Cathedral

Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses, including the Diamond Jubilee State Coach. Witness daily life and learn about the mews’ history. Daily 10am-4.15pm. Adult £9.30; child £5.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 020-7766 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

PASS PARTNER This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to sits on Ludgate Hill at the highest point of the City be confused with its less grand, but much older, of London. Climb up the dome to the Whispering neighbour, London Bridge). Check out the glassGallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden floor walkway, a unique viewpoint 138ft above Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then the River Thames. If you’re lucky, you may see head down to the crypt, with its monuments to the bridge lift below your feet. There are free, Wren and Lord Nelson. Don’t miss Oculus: An Eye hands-on activities each month as part of a into St Paul’s, a 270-degree film experience, for family learning programme; check for details. an excellent overview. It is a working church Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily with hourly prayer and daily services. Free tours. 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9; child £3.90. www.tower BBTLNTWhereLondon_190x118_050815 copy.pdf 1 05/08/2015 16:01 Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. bridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s. 7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

The Royal Observatory PASS PARTNER The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch planetarium shows throughout the day. Observatory, Flamsteed House and Meridian Line daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Avenue, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

Sea Life London Aquarium PASS PARTNER One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a scary glass walkway above 16 sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (from £130 including admission). Daily 9am-6pm. Adult £24.50; child £18.10. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. www.sealife. co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-663 1678. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

Tower Bridge Exhibition

SPECTACULAR SIGHTSEEING

NIGHT TOUR

Shrek’s Adventure! PASS PARTNER Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. There are 10 live shows, which include a visit to Shrek’s swamp, finding your fortune inC the crystal ball and getting lost in a mirror maze. M Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Sea Life London Aquarium Y available. Sun-Wed 10am-5pm; Thur 11am5pm; Sat 10am-6pm. Adult £27; child £21.85.CM www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, MY County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo. CY

St James’s Palace

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One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in K the 14th century and home to royalty for three centuries. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.

St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with regular markets, shops, galleries such as Artopia and The Alexander Miles Gallery and restaurants including CAU, Tom’s Kitchen, Bravas Tapas and White Mulberries. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

RECORDED

HOP-ON, HOP-OFF

*FREE

TRANSFER BACK TO HOTEL AFTER TOUR

TOUR FREE

COMMENTARY

IN 12 LANGUAGES

WITH 48 HOUR TICKET

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing centre and live classical music (some free). Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50 (p. 60). www.stmartinin-the-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

For great online savings visit:

BIGBUSTOURS.COM/LONDON or speak to your concierge

*on purple route only

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SIGHTSEEING Tower of London This magnificent historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home to the Crown Jewels. People imprisoned in the tower include Guy Fawkes and Sir Thomas Moore. The second wife of King Henry VIII, Anne Boleyn, was tried and executed in the walls of the Tower. It is said to be haunted. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony � ����������� of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are ���� �������� � ����� free). Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5pm. Adult £22.50; child £10.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: �Tower ������������ � ����� ��� Hill.

The Vault

The View from The Shard

This venue used to protect the Queen’s treasures under the old Coutts Bank and and is now home to the Gaultier bustier from Madonna’s Blond Ambition tour. Other iconic items include John Lennon’s glasses, Elvis Presley’s coat and guitars. Instruments include Jimi Hendrix’s guitar that he played at the Isle of Wight Festival, David Bowie’s guitar and Kurt Cobain’s guitar. See that and other iconic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia at the Hard Rock Cafe’s revamped museum. There are free guided tours. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

PASS PARTNER Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed ‘kaleidoscopic’ lift. At 1,017ft, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. Height of Summer: See The Shard’s viewing platform transformed into an English garden and try cocktails inspired by horticulture. If you pre-book you can also do yoga (£40). Yoga Sat 8.15am-9.30am. Daily 10am-9.30pm – check website before visiting. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London

ORDER, ORDER Book your tour today

PASS PARTNER Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. A fascinating insight into filmmaking. Finding the Philosopher’s Stone: An exhibition of special effects to mark the 15th anniversary of Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. Please check for times. Adult £35; child £27. You must pre-book. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. Mon-Sat, please check for opening times. Adult £20; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Otters are fed daily at 11am and 2pm. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £11.91; child £6.55. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.

RIVER TRIPS City Cruises

020 7219 4114

PASS PARTNER Daily guided sightseeing tours on the Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music Fri-Sat. Other cruises also available. Please check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7740 0400. Station: Departure points vary.

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SIGHTSEEING London Duck Tours

City of London Guides Walks

Golden Tours Open-top Bus Tours

Explore the capital by road and river from a bright yellow amphibious vehicle dating from World War II. See iconic sights as you tour the city’s streets before taking to the River Thames with a thrilling ‘splash-down’. The James Bond Tour is also available. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult from £26; child from £18. www.londonducktours.co.uk. 55 York Rd, SE1 7NJ. T: 020-7928 3132. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Choose from a variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield Market. You do not have to book. Adult free-£12.50; child free-£8. www.city oflondonguides.com. Various departure points.

See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets. Check for prices. T: 0207630 2039. www.goldentours.com. Station: Victoria.

Golden Tours

GoToMidtown Tours

From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. T: 020-7630 2039. www.goldentours.com. Station: Victoria.

Free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. There is no need to book. The 10am & 1pm walks start outside Holborn Tube station (88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA). The 11am; 2pm & 5.30pm walks start at the red sculpture in Central Saint Giles courtyard (Giles High St, WC2H 8AG). www.gotomidtown.co.uk. D7/8. Station: Holborn.

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.58. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

MBNA Thames Clippers PASS PARTNER The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 20 piers across the capital. Where Pass and Oyster cards are valid. Top tip: Download its free in:flow app. Using GPS tracking to find out your location, it can provide a real-time audio explanation of the sights you see as you pass them. River Roamer hop on and off adult £17.35; child £8.65. www.thamesclippers.com. Various points along River Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thamesjet Take a thrilling 50-minute or 75-minute aquabatic tour on a jetboat. Adult from £39; child from £28. www.thamesjet.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7740 0400.

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Authentic London Walks Two-hour walks run by an informative, humorous guide. There are seven to choose from, including Highgate and Hampstead in north London. You can also book a private tour. Wed-Sun 11am & Sat-Sun 2pm. Adult £10; child free. Departure points vary. www.authenticlondontours.com. London, N6 5BT. T: 07771-610737.

Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £22; child £11. www.bigbustours.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Victoria.

Big Bus Walking Tours Choose from three informative guided tours: Royal London at 10.20am; Harry Potter at 2pm and London Rocks at 5pm. All take 90 minutes to two hours. £5 or free with a Big Bus Tour. Daily. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop 10, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.

Capital Taxi Tours Sit back and relax as a Blue Badge or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a licenced taxi for up to five people. Choose from various London tours by day or night, themed tours, treasure hunts and trips to Oxford, Cambridge and beyond. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Various departure points. T: 020-8590 3621. Station: Various. www.wheretraveler.com 35

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SIGHTSEEING Jack the Ripper Tours Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer Jack the Ripper. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East Underground station. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

London Chocolate Tours Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this two-hour tour by a former cocoa trader. Booking essential. £15 for Where

London readers (usually £39). Every Sun 12.30pm. Departs from The Ritz hotel by Green Park. www.tourguides.org.uk. Green Park Tube station. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.

The London Helicopter Tour PASS PARTNER Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter. Departs from London’s only heliport and takes in landmarks. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour. Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-3553 6877. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with the British Film industry and contemporary writers. Tickets £24. Thur 7pm; Sat 1pm & 5pm. www.londonliterarypubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, off Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Favourites include the Jack the Ripper Walk (daily 7.30pm & Sat 3pm from Tower Hill), and a Harry Potter tour (Wed & Sat-Sun 2pm; departure points vary). Walks take two hours and there’s no need to book. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

Original London Sightseeing Walk PASS PARTNER Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre and include Changing the Guard (departing 10.30am), Rock ‘n’ Roll (1pm) and Jack the Ripper (3.30pm from Tower Hill Station). Walking tours are free with Original London Sightseeing Tour. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour PASS PARTNER With more than 60 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. Adult £30; child £15. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Most days throughout the year; check for times. Adult £13.50; child £6.50. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Opera House This is one of the world’s leading opera venues is also home to the Royal Ballet company. Take a Backstage Tour for an insight into its history, where you may also see rehearsals. Please check for times. Adult £12; child £8.50. www.royaloperahouse.org. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm; 8pm; 8.30pm; 9.15pm; 9.45pm & 10.15pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Shakespeare’s Globe (Tours) This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs. Call ahead to check times. Globe exhibition: daily 9am-5.30pm. Globe tours: Mon 9.30am-5pm; Tue-Sat 9.30am-12.30pm; Sun 9.30am-11.30am. Exhibition and Globe tour adult £15; child £9. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars. 36 W H E R E LO N D O N I AU G U S T 2016

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SIGHTSEEING Walkit

Hampton Court Palace

Innovative site aiming to get people out on foot. Enter your starting point and destination (including street, place or postcode) and the site will work out a route map, distance, time, calorie burn and carbon saving. www.walkit.com.

The former home of King Henry VIII. The Luna Cinema is screening films outdoors, too. Food and drink are available. 12 Aug: Pretty Woman. 13 Aug: Jaws. 27-29 Aug: BBC Good Food Festival. Palace, maze and formal gardens daily 10am-6pm. Adult £19; child £9.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Wembley Tours PASS PARTNER Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. Daily from 10am. Adult £19; child £11. www.wembleystadium.com/wembleytours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

Leeds Castle Fairytale 900-year-old castle with a moat, splendid gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze. 5-6 Aug: Open Air Theatre: Wizard of Oz. 7, 14, 21 & 28 Aug: Music on the Lawns.

13-14 Aug: Interactive Children’s Theatre: Heroes, Heroines and Hoods. 15-19 Aug: Leeds Castle Mystery Quest. 27-29 Aug: Spy School. Castle daily 10.30am-4.30pm; grounds & gardens daily 10am-6pm. Adult £24.50; child £16.50. www.leedscastle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622765400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £12; child £7.20. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley, then a 15-minute walk.

Westways Carriage Horses Get collected from your hotel and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. Tours last from two-and-a-half to three hours in a four-seater or six-seater carriage. £450 per carriage. www.westwayscarriagehorses.co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS Festival of Love To 29 Aug: Visit a riverside beach and the Queen Elizabeth Hall Roof Garden. Free. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7960 4200. E8. Station: Waterloo.

ONE OF THE BEST THINGS I’VE EVER DONE TripAdvisor Review

Notting Hill Carnival 28-29 Aug: Since it started in 1964 as a celebration

of Afro-Caribbean culture, this outdoor festival includes drummers and DJs as dancers parade through the streets in elaborate costumes (p. 8). 9am-7pm. Free. www.thenottinghillcarnival.com. Notting Hill. Off map Station: Notting Hill.

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. Storms, War and Shipwrecks: Treasures from the Sicilian Seas. Learn about the island at the crossroads of the Mediterranean through discoveries made by underwater archaeologists. Monkey Tales. Free admission; charges for special events. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. 4-7 Aug: BBC Countryfile Live. The TV programme about rural life visits the palace. 14 Aug: Family Cycling Day. 19-21 Aug: Summer Jousting Tournament. 21 Aug: Cars & Coffee – Speed & Style. 28-29 Aug: Blenheim Palace Festival of Transport. ‘Upstairs’ and ‘downstairs’ tours available. Palace and formal gardens daily 10.30am-4.45pm. Adult £24.90; child £13.90. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

HELICOPTER SIGHTSEEING TOURS Call us on 020 7887 2626 or ask your concierge about booking www.thelondonhelicopter.com

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SIGHTSEEING

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See By Night

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Daily 9.30am-8pm. Adult £15.50; child £9.30. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Syon Park

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

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Private tours available for groups day or night

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This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is home to the Duke of Northumberland. Don’t miss the incredible interiors, Grade I-listed landscape gardens and Great Conservatory. House Wed-Thur & Sun 11am-4pm; gardens daily 10.30am-4pm. House and garden adult £12; child £5; gardens only adult £7; child £3.50. www.syon park.co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.

Waddesdon Manor Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and an aviary. House and grounds adult £20; child £10. Grounds only adult £10; child £5. House Wed-Fri noon-4pm; Sat-Sun 11am-3.10pm. Grounds Wed-Sun 10am-5pm. www.waddesdon manor.org. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Don’t miss Merlin: The Dragon Tower and displays of medieval weaponry, as well as regular falconry displays. The dungeon, with actors, is a highlight. Daily 10am-5pm. Castle adult £25.20; child £22.20; castle & dungeon adult £30.20; child £27.20. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Off map. Station: Warwick.

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle includes State Apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. 21 Aug: Fair Ladies and Noble Knights. Dressing-up event for kids. 16-17 Aug: Much Ado About Nothing. 18-27 Aug: A Midsummer Night’s Dream. 19-20 Aug: Love’s Labour’s Lost by Shakespeare. Daily 9.30am-4pm. Adult £20; child £11.70. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor Castle, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic house has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years and is currently occupied by the 15th duke and his family. Tour the house to find out more about its family history, art and antiques, then stroll around the gardens. 26 Aug: Bat Walks. An evening tour where you can learn all about the bats in the garden. Daily 11am-4pm. Abbey and gardens adult £16, child £8; gardens only adult £7.25, child £4.50. www.woburn abbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333. Off map. Station: St Pancras to Flitwick. 38 W H E R E LO N D O N I AU G U S T 2016

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Outdoor art Amazing art needn’t be confined to traditional galleries and museums. For a breath of fresh air, leave those four walls behind and see wonderful designs, from sculpture to architecture, in a different way, says Sam Rogg The days are hot; the nights are warm, so it’s time to make the most of London’s outdoor art. The Summer Pavilion at the Serpentine Gallery (to 9 Oct; p. 46; above) is a must-see temporary structure in Kensington Gardens that’s free to explore. Each year, a different artist or architect is chosen to design the Pavilion, with past creations by the likes of Ai Weiwei and Iraqi-born artist Zaha Hadid. Now in its 16th year, the Pavilion is as surprising as ever: expect a huge unzipped wall of interlocking fibreglass bricks that appears both straight and hollow. ‘We have attempted to design a structure that embodies multiple aspects that are often perceived as opposites,’ says this year’s designer Bjarke Ingels Group (BIG). ‘A structure that is free-form yet rigorous, modular yet sculptural, both transparent and opaque, both solid box and blob’. By day, this solid blob is home to a fantastic café and family-friendly activities. By night, the Serpentine’s Park Nights programme takes over

with an entertaining line-up of performances by artists, writers and musicians. And, for the first time, there will be four other temporary structures on-site called Summer Houses, each one inspired by the nearby Queen Caroline’s Temple in Kensington Gardens. Outside the Victoria and Albert Museum (p. 44), you can see a pavilion of a different kind. Designed by Stuttgart architect Achim Menges, but created by a robot, the pavilion is inspired by the wings of flying beetles and forms part of the V&A’s Engineering Season.

Situated in east London, The Line is the city’s first dedicated modern and contemporary art walk (www.the-line.org). Running from the Olympic Park to The O2 and the regenerated Greenwich Peninsula, the walk is punctuated by works from Alex Chinneck, Gary Hume and Antony Gormley (famous for his Angel of the North sculpture). See a sliced vertical section of a sand dredger by Richard Wilson; Thomas J Price’s statue of a man texting (left); and a bronze model of human skin by Damien Hirst. Over in the capital’s financial district – known as the Square Mile – you’ll find the sixth edition of Sculpture in the City (www.cityoflondon. gov.uk), where 15 contemporary artworks are located in and around major landmarks such as the ‘Cheesegrater’ skyscraper. See a huge cast-iron head by Catalan sculptor Jaume Plensa peering over visitors to the ‘Gherkin’, then head over to Bishopsgate where a sculpture of a Johannesburg street seller awaits. Other artists include Young British Artist Gavin Turk, and Sir Anthony Caro, one of Britain’s finest sculptors.

SERPENTINE PAVILION DESIGNED BY BJARKE INGELS GROUP (BIG) © IWAN BAAN; NETWORK BY THOMAS J PRICE COURTESY OF THE LINE

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

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FEEL LIKE A WIMBLEDON CHAMPION Every summer brings another exciting Championship at Wimbledon, so why not visit the award-winning Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, listen to John McEnroe’s ‘ghost’ and see the new Championship trophies display. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational experience.

Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields Telephone: 020 8946 6131 The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE WIMBLEDON.COM/MUSEUM

New Virtual Reality experience opened June 2016. See website for details

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE WHERE PASS LONDON, VISIT WHEREPASSLONDON.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89

MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Enjoy a sneak peek inside the stadium. Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for match-related closures. Self-guided: adult £20; child £10. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20.75. Museum only: adult £8; child £5. www.arsenal.com/ tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N7 7AJ. T: 0207619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the Bank of England from its 1694 foundation to the present day. Mon-Fri 10am5pm; closed bank holidays (29 Aug). Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House Former home of the American Founding Father. Architectural tours Mon noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm; historical shows Wed-Sun noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm. Need to book in advance on Tue. Shows: adult £7; under 16s free. Mon guided tours: adult £3.50; under 16s free. www.benjamin franklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 0207925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The British Museum A vast and unrivalled collection of antiquities. To 27 Nov: Sunken Cities: Egypt’s Lost Worlds. Ancient objects from underwater cities. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.british museum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Russell Square.

The Guards Museum

London Transport Museum

The history of the Foot Guards. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £6; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park.

Exploring the city’s transport network. Mon-Thur & Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £17; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Household Cavalry Museum

Museum of London

The work of the Queen’s guards. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum. co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster.

Imperial War Museum Displays of conflicts. To 8 Jan 2017: Real to Reel: A Century of War Movies. The history of war films. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Waterloo.

Leighton House Museum The former home and studio of Frederic, Lord Leighton contains paintings and sculptures. WedMon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £7; child £5. www.leighton house.co.uk. 12 Holland Park, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the renowned film series. It is the largest display of its kind ever staged in London. Mon-Fri & Sun 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

London’s history from pre-Roman times to today. To 17 Apr 2017: Fire! Fire! Interactive exhibition about the Great Fire of 1666. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.museum oflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

National Maritime Museum Includes the Maritime Galleries with Captain Cook’s ship Endeavour and Nelson’s uniform. Mon-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich.

Natural History Museum Exhibits about nature’s wonders. To 11 Sep: Sensational Butterflies. Walk among moths and butterflies. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Science Museum Enjoy changing exhibitions and an IMAX 3D cinema. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0870-870 4868. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Top Pick

The Cartoon Museum Dedicated to British cartoons. To 30 Oct: Heroes and Villains. Political cartoons (p. 44). Mon-Sat 10.30am5.30pm; Sun noon-5.30pm. Adult £7; under 18s free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours PASS PARTNER Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ‘Legends’ tours with past stars of the game (tickets £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £20 (museum only £11); child £13 (£9). www.chelseafc. com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Where Churchill worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £18; child £9; under fives free. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Clink Prison Museum A former prison dating back to 1144. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Geffrye Museum English interiors from 1600. Tue-Sun & bank holidays (29 Aug) 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.geffryemuseum.org.uk. 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 0207739 9893. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

The play’s the thing The mask from The Phantom of the Opera, a letter written on a napkin from Ian McKellen to his understudy and the dress worn by Helen Mirren in her portrayal of the Queen in The Audience are just some of the pieces on display in Curtain Up: Celebrating 40 Years of Theatre in London and New York (to 31 Aug; p. 44) at the Victoria and Albert Museum. To mark the 40th anniversary of the Olivier Awards, this exhibition lifts the curtain on what it takes to put on a show in the West End and Broadway. Visitors will feel as if they are backstage and onstage, especially when they see the recreation of the set for The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time.

IMAGE © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

Churchill War Rooms

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The BP exhibition

Sunken cities Egypt’s lost worlds The family-friendly Taxi Tour Company “We meet as strangers and part as friends”

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Enjoy a private London tour for 2 or 3 hours, half day or even a full day in an iconic London Taxi. See the sights before taking our ‘Hidden Treasures Tour’ to explore parts of London that tourists never normally get to see.

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Victoria and Albert Museum Enjoy the world’s leading museum of art and design

IMAGE © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

vam.ac.uk

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

TATE BRITAIN

Somerset House Art galleries, cafés and restaurants (p. 48). To 24 Aug: Daydreaming with Stanley Kubrick. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.

VISIT THE HOME OF BRITISH ART

Twinings Museum Home of the tea maker. Check for times. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

Victoria and Albert Museum

© Lee Mawdsley

Wonderful collection of fine and applied arts. To 31 Aug: Curtain Up: Celebrating 40 Years of Theatre in London and New York (p. 42). Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

F E AT U R I N G A R T WO R K S F R O M T U R N E R , CO N S TA B L E , B ACO N , F R E U D, HOCKNEY & HIRST

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Sketch comedy VISIT A PRIVATE PALACE OF ART

If you think cartoons are just for kids, take a trip to The Cartoon Museum, which has a huge collection of cartoons ranging from Hogarth to Private Eye. The exhibition Heroes and Villains (to 30 Oct; p. 42) brings together political cartoons, comic strips and caricatures. The battle between good and evil isn’t just the stuff of superhero stories, as seen by images on display covering war and politics.

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Trophies and memorabilia. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum £13, child £8; museum and tour £24, child £15. Family offer: one free child to every full price adult until 30 Sep. www.wimbledon.com/museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields/ Tooting Broadway, then bus 493.

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Wellcome Collection

Leighton House Museum

12 Holland Park Road Kensington London W14 8LZ

10am - 5.30pm CLOSED TUESDAYS www.leightonhouse.co.uk

Houses more than 1,500 artefacts relating to health. To 16 Oct: States of Mind: Tracing the Edges of Consciousness. A look at consciousness from different perspectives. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

QUEEN ELIZABETH II BY TROG © THE CARTOON MUSEUM

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours

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QUEEN ELIZABETH II BY TROG © THE CARTOON MUSEUM

GALLERIES

FREE ENTRY

Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue. To 16 Oct: Designing for a Living City. Exhibition tracing the controversial design of a residential development. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. Mon-Sat 9am11pm; Sun noon-11pm; bank holidays noon-11pm. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

The Courtauld Gallery European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in Somerset House. To 11 Sep: Georgiana Houghton: Spirit Drawings. Watercolours by a 19th century spiritualist medium. To 25 Sep: Regarding Trees. Explores artists’ fascination with trees. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £9; child free. www.courtauld. ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.

Guildhall Art Gallery Art from 1670 to the present day. At the Heritage Gallery, you can see William Shakespeare’s First Folio (p. 45). To 20 Nov: Visscher Redrawn: 1616-2016. Visscher’s famous image of medieval London alongside Robin Reynolds’ modern version. MonSat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

The National Gallery One of the world’s great galleries, with works by masters from Monet to Leonardo da Vinci. To 29 Aug: Dutch Flowers. Dutch flower painting from the early 17th century to the late 18th century. To 4 Sep: Painters’ Paintings: From Freud to Van Dyck. Examine the connections between artists and the paintings they owned. To 30 Oct: George Shaw: My Back to Nature. The former Turner Prizenominee unveils his work during a studio residency at the gallery. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Take a Wellcome Detour Wellcome Collection is a popular contemporary museum about the human condition: life, death and everything in between. “Something different and divine” Source: TripAdvisor

The free destination for the incurably curious Tuesday–Sunday until 18.00, Thursday until 22.00 Euston 183 Euston Road, London NW1 2BE Euston Square. wellcomecollection.org

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National Portrait Gallery British history told through portraiture. To 4 Sep: BP Portrait Award 2016. Prestigious international exhibition of contemporary portrait painting. To 23 Oct: William Eggleston Portraits. Works by the pioneering American photographer from the 1960s to the present day. Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular Late Shift special events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Newport Street Gallery Damien Hirst’s huge new gallery exhibits work from his extensive art collection. To 16 Oct: Now. A Jeff Koons’ retrospective spanning 35 years. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.newportstreet gallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320. G8. Station: Vauxhall/Lambeth North.

The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography. To 25 Sep: Made You Look. Looks at black masculinity. To 25 Sep: What Soho Wore. Display mapping the hidden cultural history of Soho. Mon-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £3. www.the photographersgallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The Queen’s Gallery Treasures from the Royal Collection. To 9 Oct: Maria Merian’s Butterflies. Works by the entomologist. To 9 Oct: Scottish Artists 1750-1900: From Caledonia to the Continent. Artworks collected by monarchs. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £10.30; child £5.30. www.royal collection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park.

Royal Academy of Arts Eighteenth-century apartments with RA Collection works in all media. To 21 Aug: Summer Exhibition 2016. Annual show by everyone from emerging artists to big names. To 2 Oct: David Hockney RA: 82 Portraits and 1 Still-life. A new body of work largely made up

of portraits. Fri 10am-10pm; Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; check for regular special events and free lunchtime concerts. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Saatchi Gallery Groundbreaking contemporary art. To 4 Sep: Exhibitionism: The Rolling Stones. An immersive show curated by the band. Features more than 500 items. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Serpentine Gallery A respected arts space in Kensington Gardens displaying modern and contemporary work. To 9 Oct: Serpentine Pavilion and Summer Houses 2016. This year’s temporary structure is designed by Bjarke Ingels Group (p. 40). By day it houses a café and free family activities. By night it hosts performances by artists, writers and musicians. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Tate Britain Traditional and contemporary British art. To 25 Sep: Painting with Light. Celebrates the spirited conversation between photography and British art. Daily 9.45am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

TATE MODERN 6 J U LY – 30 O C T 2016

Child’s play

T H E E YA L O F E R G A L L E R I E S

Media partner

Supported by

With additional support from the Georgia O’Keeffe Exhibition Supporters Group and Tate Patrons

Georgia O’Keeffe Jimson Weed/White Flower No. 1, 1932 Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, Arkansas © 2016 Georgia O’Keeffe Museum/ DACS, London Photography by Edward C. Robison III

Tate Modern International art in the transformed Bankside Power Station. To 30 Oct: Georgia O’Keeffe. A retrospective, including the most expensive painting by a female artist ever sold at auction. To 6 Nov: Bhupen Khakhar. Exploration of the Indian artist. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

Whitechapel Gallery Influential East End gallery with contemporary art. To 14 Aug: Barjeel Art Foundation Collection: Imperfect Chronology – Mapping the Contemporary I. Photos and video. Tue-Wed & FriSun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.whitechapel. org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 0207522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

BUGSY MALONE © SIR ALAN PARKER/BFI NATIONAL ARCHIVE

GEORGIA O’KEEFFE

When director Alan Parker needed to entertain his children on a long car journey, he would make up stories. One such tale involved gangsters, showgirls and custard pies. Little did he know it would end up becoming the classic film Bugsy Malone. To celebrate, 40 Years of Bugsy Malone (5-7 Aug) comes to BAFTA, taking it over with splurge guns, a speakeasy bar, a photo booth and, of course, those custard pies. There will also be screenings of the movie. 195 Piccadilly, W1J 9LN. T: 020-7739 8203. www.bafta.org. E7. Station: Green Park

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Cutty Sark Greenwich

“You must get on board this amazing historic ship. We were blown away!"

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Al fresco theatre

Outside the box Sarah Riches grabs some popcorn and enjoys pop-up cinemas in spectacular outdoor locations, from Somerset House to Kew Gardens include a screening of Trainspotting (15 Aug) to mark the 20th anniversary of Danny Boyle’s controversial classic, as well as sundown DJ sets, talks and a film poster exhibition. The festival’s programmer, David Cox, says: ‘I’m proud of our three UK premieres and can’t wait for audiences to see Things to Come (4 Aug), Pedro Almodóvar’s Julieta (10 Aug) and Jackie Brown (12 Aug). I’m really looking forward to Galaxy Quest (13 Aug), which is a fun film and the perfect way to pay tribute to the late Alan Rickman, who was a guest of Summer Screen on two occasions.’ Not to be outdone, Kew Gardens has teamed up with The Luna Cinema to host Kew the Movies (24-25 Aug & 7-8 Sep; p. 32) – take a picnic to make the most of it. The Luna Cinema’s director, George Wood, says: ‘Enjoy classic movies under the stars in the world’s most famous botanic gardens. We’ve four iconic films taking to the big screen in front of Kew Palace. Up first is Star Wars – The Force Awakens (24 Aug), followed by Jurassic Park (25 Aug), Mean Girls (7 Sep) and the 1980s classic Labyrinth, starring David Bowie (8 Sep).’

REGENT’S PARK OPEN AIR THEATRE Declan Bennett plays the lead in this fantastic new production of Jesus Christ Superstar (to 27 Aug), directed by Timothy Sheader. With music by Andrew Lloyd Webber and lyrics by Tim Rice, expect to feel goosebumps during Superstar – and not because you’re sitting outside. Go early and enjoy a picnic in the glorious grounds. Inner Circle, Queen Mary’s Garden, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU

SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE Inspired by The Amazing Story of Aldophus Tips, the novel by children’s author Michael Morpurgo, 946 (from 11 Aug) is based on a true story. Showing at the Globe Theatre (above), it is set on the coast in Devon in 1944. The romantic, political drama uses music and puppetry to share the story of residents who were told to leave their homes to accommodate American soldiers. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT

SOMERSET HOUSE © JAMES BRYANT; SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE © ISTOCK

Want to catch a Hollywood blockbuster this summer? All you need is a bag of popcorn – the rest is done for you, as outdoor cinemas are popping up across the capital. For the first time, Pop Up Screens is at Guildhall Art Gallery (p. 45). The company’s founder, David Leydon, says: ‘This is our fifth summer bouncing round London, so we know what we’re doing when it comes to finding an awesome movie and lovely location. Pop Up Screens is all about creating an atmosphere for you to have fun with your loved ones and see a great film. There’s no advertising and no sponsors to indulge – it’s just about having a good time with people who’ll dance with you to Dirty Dancing or throw out a truffle shuffle during The Goonies.’ Catch favourites such as Pulp Fiction (5 Aug) and Stand by Me (9 Aug). Profits from the latter will be donated to the Sea Cadets and diabetes charity JDRF. The gallery will open late so you can enjoy a double dose of culture. You can also make an evening of it at Film4 Summer Screen at Somerset House (4-17 Aug; p. 44 & p. 61; above). Highlights 48 W H E R E LO N D O N I AU G U S T 2016

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‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ N E W YO R K POST

THE MUSICAL OFFICIAL HOTEL PARTNER

MatildaTheMusical.com

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ENTERTAINMENT T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89. Please check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

Top Pick

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw. Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me (p. 90). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £51.75-£99.75. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

American Idiot

Tribute acts

Beautiful – The Carole King Musical Musical about the early life and career of the award-winning singer-songwriter. Mon & WedSat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£127.50. www.beautifulmusical.co.uk. Aldwych Theatre, 49 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. E8. Station: Covent Garden/ Holborn/Charing Cross.

MANDELA TRILOGY © JOHN SNELLING

A powerful production based on the life of the late South African president Nelson Mandela is to be performed at the Royal Festival Hall. Mandela Trilogy (from 31 Aug; p. 56) is part opera, part concert – there will be a band on stage playing jazz, swing and Xhosa folk music. Divided into three acts, the show follows Mandela as he takes tribal initiation rites, frequents jazz bars in Sophiatown and endures imprisonment on Robben Island, before finally becoming South Africa’s president.

Even if you’re not that into Green Day you’ll still enjoy this Tony and Grammy Award-winning musical. Fans will be transported to the 1990s with Boulevard of Broken Dreams. Tue-Sat 8pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 6pm. Tickets £25-£65. www.artstheatrewestend. co.uk. Arts Theatre, 6-7 Great Newport St, WC2H 7JB. T: 020-7836 8463. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

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ENTERTAINMENT

Let him entertain you

To 28 Aug: A circus, cabaret and acrobatic show with knife throwers, hula hoopers, contortionists and burlesque performers. Times vary. Tickets from £15. www.hippodromecasino.com. Hippodrome Casino, Cranbourn St (off Leicester Square), WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7/E8 Station: Leicester Square.

The Bodyguard This musical stars Beverley Knight as Rachel, a singer who falls in love with her bodyguard. Expect Whitney Houston’s greatest hits. MonSat 7.30pm, Wed & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.50-£95. www.dominiontheatre.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £39.75-£152.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Charlie and the Chocolate Factory A musical version of Roald Dahl’s children’s tale about a confectioner. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£94. www.charlieandthechocolatefactory.com. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

KENNETH BRANAGH © JOHAN PERSSON

The Kenneth Branagh Theatre Company’s season at The Garrick Theatre is coming to a close with The Entertainer (from 20 Aug; p. 58). The seven-play season, which included The Winter’s Tale, Red Velvet and Romeo and Juliet, is going out with a bang with director Rob Ashford’s adaptation of John Osborne’s 1957 play. The Entertainer is a drama about a disillusioned middle-aged man called Archie Rice (Branagh). He’s a failing music hall performer who is discontented with his bickering family, weak marriage and his daughter’s broken engagement. The original play spawned a film adaptation in 1960 and a radio play in 2008, starring Bill Nighy as Archie. This stage version will be broadcast live in cinemas around the world (27 Oct).

Blanc de Blanc

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ENTERTAINMENT

SEEN BY OVER 7 MILLION THEATREGOERS WORLDWIDE

THE ORIGINAL. LIVE ON STAGE. ‘THE MOST BRILLIANTLY EFFECTIVE

SPINE-CHILLER

YOU WILL EVER ENCOUNTER’ DAILY TELEGRAPH

Funny Girl A true story about Fanny, a music hall singer who finds fame on Broadway before falling in love with gambler Nicky. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£125. www.funnygirlthe musical.co.uk. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Go-Between Michael Crawford stars in this musical about an elderly man who unintentionally delves into his past. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£87.50. www.nimaxtheatres.com. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Piccadilly Circus.

Labour of love

SUSAN HILL’S

The martial arts musical Marco Polo, An Untold Love Story is coming to the Shaw Theatre (from 5 Aug; p. 56). Rogelio Saldo Chua, the show’s Filipino-Belgian director, composed the show’s score, which includes the haunting love song I Choose You. Rogelio was inspired to create a show about East/West divides due to his personal history: he has a Chinese father, Spanish ancestry and an American wife. The story follows explorer Marco Polo’s travels from Venice to Asia, where he falls for Princess Kogajin.

Guys and Dolls

FORTUNE THEATRE

0844 871 7626

thewomaninblack.com

Calls cost 7p per minute, plus your phone company’s access charge

Covent Garden

In the Heights A Tony Award-winning musical about young love, set on the mean streets of Washington Heights in New York. Mon-Tue & Thur-Fri 8pm; Tue 3pm; Sat 8.30pm; Sun 6pm. Tickets £22.50-£59.50. www.intheheightslondon.com. King’s Cross Theatre, Corner of King’s Boulevard and Goods Way, N1C 4UR. T: 0844-871 7604. Off map. Station: King’s Cross.

MARCO POLO © MARIAN YU

ADAPTED BY

STEPHEN MALLATRATT

Fifties musical about a gambler and his nightclubsinger fiancée. Rebel Wilson stars until 21 Aug. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Thur, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £16.50-£122. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

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ENTERTAINMENT Jersey Boys The hit Olivier Award-winning story of US pop sensations Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Tue & Sat 3pm; Sun 5pm. Tickets £24.50-£114. www.jerseyboyslondon.com. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Kinky Boots Fun musical about a business owner who decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical is set in post-revolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £12.50-£127.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Disney’s The Lion King

CuriousOnStage.com Gielgud Theatre A DELFONT MACKINTOSH THEATRE

Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and puppetry. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £37.70-£142.20. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm; 9 & 23 Aug 3pm. Tickets £15-£97.50. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Mandela Trilogy From 31 Aug: Part opera, part concert, this tells the life of Nelson Mandela and his road towards becoming South Africa’s leader. A band on stage will play jazz, swing and indigenous Xhosa folk (p. 50). 7.30pm. Tickets £15-£45. www.mandelatrilogy.com. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Marco Polo, An Untold Love Story From 5 Aug: A love story set in 13th-century Asia, about the Venetian explorer Marco Polo who travels the world and meets Princess Kogajin (p. 54). Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Fri-Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £40-£80. www.marcopolo-newmusical.com. Shaw Theatre, Hotel Pullman Hotel London St Pancras, 100-110 Euston Rd, NW1 2AJ. T: 0844248 5075. C7. Station: Euston.

Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. With music and lyrics by Tim Minchin. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Motown the Musical #WonderSeason

Brilliant feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross, The Jackson 5, Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye and The Temptations. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £19.50-£145. www.shaftesbury theatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

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15 JUL—17 SE P

The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £21.50-£95. www.thephantom oftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Showboat It’s full steam ahead as this musical about a showboat on the Mississippi in the 1800s sails into London. It features Ol’ Man River, Make Believe and Can’t Help Lovin’ Dat Man. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50£99. www.showboatmusical.co.uk. New London Theatre, Drury Lane, WC2B 5PW. T: 0844-412 4654. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.

Stomp An award-winning fusion of theatre, dance, comedy and rhythmic percussion. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; occasional Weds. Tickets £26-£67.50. www.stomplondon.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Sunny Afternoon Musical about The Kinks, with music and lyrics by Ray Davies. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£89.50. www.sunnyafternoonthemusical.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

WOR LD PR E MIE R E OF A NE W MUSICAL BOOK BY DANNY RUBIN

MUSIC & LYR IC S BY TIM MINCHIN

The Three Penny Opera London scrubs up for the Queen’s coronation in Bertolt Brecht’s ‘play with music’. Contains strong language. Check for times. Tickets £15-£50. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Thriller Live Songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 4pm & 8pm; Sun 3.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £27.50-£87.50. www.thriller live.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Wicked the Musical The back story of the witches of Oz. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£125. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

OPERA London Coliseum Home to the English National Opera. Productions are sung in English. 11-14 Aug: Thunderstorm. Shanghai Opera Company presents this opera about family, society and corruption (p. 8). 11-13 Aug 7.30pm; 14 Aug 3pm. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Sarastro Young opera singers perform popular arias alongside a string quartet of music students, to enhance your dining experience. Sun & Mon 8.30pm-9.30pm; Sun 2.30pm. www.sarastrorestaurant.com. 126 Drury Lane, WC2B 5SU. T: 020-7836 0101. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

0844 826 4242 | openairtheatre.com *

*calls cost 7ppm including your telephone company’s usual access charge. Lines open 9am-9pm. A £1.50 per ticket telephone booking fee applies.

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ENTERTAINMENT

PLAYS Breakfast at Tiffany’s Truman Capote’s classic tale of Holly Golightly becomes a stage play with music, starring the singer Pixie Lott as Holly. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£98. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 0207930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time Adaptation of Mark Haddon’s novel about a boy with learning difficulties. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £18-£92.50. www.curious onstage.com. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.

The Entertainer From 20 Aug: Drama about a disillusioned middle-aged man starring Kenneth Branagh as Archie Rice, a failing music hall performer. He is discontented with his bickering family, weak marriage and his daughter’s broken engagement (p. 52). Mon-Sat 7.30pm, Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£95. www.nimaxtheatres.com. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844482 9673. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

WIN

BEST NNEERW MU OLIVIERSA ICAL WARD 2015

S

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Thur-Sat 7pm; Sat 1pm; Sun 1pm & 6pm. Tickets £55-£65. www.faultytowers-uk.com. The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0845-154 4145. E8. Station: Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8. Station: Holborn.

Jesus Christ Superstar Classic musical play starring Declan Bennett, with lyrics by Tim Rice and music by Andrew Lloyd Webber (p. 48). Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Wed 17 & 24 Aug; Thur & Sat 2.15pm. Tickets £25-£52.50. www.openairtheatre.com. Open Air Theatre, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6. Station: Baker Street.

Macbeth William Shakespeare’s classic tale about a man whose belief that he will become king has tragic consequences. Check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Tue 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £18.50-£67.50. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

JOIN TH

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NT You’re on e step clo ser! Hamleys’ character can’t wait s to meet yo u Turn to p . 62 and th . e Ring Mast er will tell you more ...

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946

YOU’LL FEEL THE EARTH MOVE!

From 11 Aug: This romantic drama uses music and puppetry to tell the story of residents who were told to leave their homes to make way for American soldiers during World War II. It’s based on a true story (p. 48). Check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Sam Wanamaker Theatre, Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about a murder mystery. TueSat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£67.50. www.theplaythatgoeswrong. com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Romeo and Juliet To 13 Aug: Richard Madden (Game of Thrones) plays Romeo while Lily James (Downton Abbey, Pride and Prejudice) stars as Juliet. Directed by Kenneth Branagh. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£95. www.nimaxtheatres.com. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Sunset at the Villa Thalia To 4 Aug: It’s 1967, and Charlotte and Theo are living on a Greek island when an American couple seduce them into making choices that have devastating consequences. Tickets £15£50. Mon-Sat; times vary. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. Dorfman Theatre, National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Visit BeautifulinLondon.co.uk Call 0845 200 7981

The Taming of the Shrew To 6 Aug: Comical play by William Shakespeare about two wealthy sisters: the beautiful Bianca, who’s keen to marry, and her rebellious sister Katharina, who clings to her independence. Check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Sam Wanamaker Theatre, Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

‘THE BEST WEST END MUSICAL FOR YEARS’ BBC RADIO 2

The Woman in Black A spooky story (prepare to scream) adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £19.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Yerma Lorca’s masterpiece about a woman who is desperate to become a mother. Billie Piper excels as the lead. Mon-Sat 7.30pm (except 29 Aug); Wed & Sat 2.30pm (except 3, 10 & 27 Aug). Tickets £10-£35. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 6 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES Bank Holiday Celebration 27-28 Aug: Shows and activities for children, including puppetry. Times vary. Free. www.unicorn theatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10. Station: London Bridge.

CBeebies Proms 28 Aug: The BBC Concert Orchestra joins children’s

TV presenters to take children aged five and under on a journey through space. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

THE STORY OF FRANKIE VALLI & THE FOUR SEASONS 0844 871 7630

Piccadilly Theatre

ALSO PLAYING SUNDAYS

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ENTERTAINMENT Chester Tuffnut

Introducing

To 14 Aug: Follow the adventures of a daredevil treemole on a summer woodland escapade. 11.05am & 2.35pm daily, except 8-9 Aug. Tickets £12. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

Grass 26-29 Aug: Fun dance and puppetry show for children which explores the diversity of grass. Please check for times. Ticket included in admission. Kew Gardens, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL

G O . S E E . D O . LONDON

Illustration © Shutterstock/ Lisa Kolbasa

Cadogan Hall

The best of London in one card Use across public transport Tickets and offers for the city’s top attractions Manage your travel money The Where® Pass is London’s new traveller’s ticket allowing visitors to experience top attractions with integrated discounts and transport. Incorporating contactless debit card technology and an interactive digital platform, visiting London has never been more convenient.

Find out more at wherepasslondon.com Or perhaps Berlin, wherepassberlin.com or Paris, wherepassparis.com

Classical events hall. 8 Aug: BBC Proms 2016 Chamber Music 4. Trumpeter Håkan Hardenberger is joined by the Academy of St Martin-in-the-Fields and friends for a celebration of the music of Kurt Weill. 1pm. Tickets £6-£14. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Royal Albert Hall London’s premiere music hall and home to the annual BBC Proms. 4 Aug: BBC Symphony Orchestra and Oliver Knussen. Part of the annual Proms festival. 7.30pm. Tickets £6-£32.60. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. Station: South Kensington.

St James’s Piccadilly This church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in the-Fields Church Programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals (p. 33). www.smitf.org. St Martin-inthe-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Cadogan Hall 18-20 Aug: Some Enchanted Evening. Lesley Garrett, Ruthie Henshall, Michael Xavier and Gary Wilmot perform classic songs by the Broadway legend Richard Rodgers alongside the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra. You’ll recognise tunes from Oklahoma!, The Sound of Music and South Pacific. 7.30pm & 20 Aug 2.30pm. Tickets £24-£41. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. F6. Station: Sloane Square.

Indigo at The O2 23 Aug: Kes on the Rocks. Inspired by their native

nation of Trinidad and Tobago, Kes fuses calypso, rock and reggae. 7pm. Tickets £35-£50. www.the o2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

The Jazz Café This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 6 Aug: Osibisa. The Afro band plays African, Caribbean, R ‘n’ B and more. Please check for full listings. 7pm. Tickets £12.50. www.thejazzcafe london.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

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The O2 Enormous venue for live music. 14 Aug: Ustad Rahat Fateh Khan. Celebrates Pakistan’s independence. 6pm. Tickets £40-£100. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 8-13 Aug: Roy Ayers. 6pm & 10.30pm. Tickets £45-£60. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Royal Albert Hall 5 Aug: National Youth Jazz Orchestra of Scotland. 10.15pm. Tickets £17.30-£22.40. 22 Aug: Quincy

Jones. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

DANCE Sadler’s Wells To 21 Aug: Vamos Cuba! Dance set in the chaos of Havana airport, where families are parted, lovers reunited and time flies when you’re having fun. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 2pm & 6pm. Tickets £12-£45. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Avenue, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

Southbank Centre 5 Aug: Body. Dance. Nation. City. A dance show by

Le Corps du Ballet National de Marseille. Times and prices vary. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS BBC Proms This popular annual festival celebrates classical music through concerts, workshops, events and more. Times and prices vary; please check for details. www.bbc.co.uk/proms. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

CRITICS CAN’T HELP LOVIN’ THIS SHOW!

‘DON’T MISS THIS BOAT’ THE EVENING STANDARD, Fiona Mountford

Film4 Summer Screen 4-17 Aug: Outdoor film festival in a courtyard (p. 48). Times and prices vary. www.somersethouse. org.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.

The Luna Cinema Watch classic films such as Notting Hill and Some Like it Hot outdoors (p. 48). Times and dates vary. www.thelunacinema.com. T: 0844-858 6767.

South West Four 27-28 Aug: A clubbing festival that takes place outdoors. Headliners include The Chemical Brothers. Please check for prices. www.southwest four.com. Clapham Common, SW4 7AJ. Off map. Station: Clapham Common.

Music by JEROME KERN Book & Lyrics OSCAR HAMMERSTEIN II Based on the novel ‘Show Boat’ by Edna Ferber

‘INCREDIBLE’

THE MAIL ON SUNDAY, Robert Gore-Langton

THE TIMES, Ann Treneman

‘UNMISSABLE’ THE OBSERVER, Clare Brennan

‘SUPERB’

‘THRILLING’

THE DAILY TELEGRAPH, Dominic Cavendish

THE SUNDAY TIMES, Jane Edwardes

THE GUARDIAN, Michael Billington

FINANCIAL TIMES, Sarah Hemming

FILM The Lounge at ODEON Whiteleys Watch films while dining on an exclusive menu from chef Rowley Leigh, with the food served directly to your seat. Please check programme for films. www.odeon.co.uk/thelounge. Whiteleys of Bayswater, Queensway, W2 4YL. T: 0871-2244 007. Off map. Station: Queensway.

STRICTLY LIMITED SEASON ★ NEW LONDON THEATRE ★ 0844 412 4654* ★ ShowBoatMusical.co.uk *Calls cost 7p per minute, plus your phone company’s access charge.

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE JOIN T

HE H

UNT Roll up, ro the trail ll up! Follow to p. 64 and discove r add ma how you can gic to yo trip in H u amleys r

Clockwise from left: Camden Market; a shopper browsing; Brick Lane; produce at Borough Market

Market value Markets are one of those shopping experiences that are unique to holidays: you know you’ll probably find a one-off item and get a story to go along with it that you can tell the folks back home. London is a city filled with markets, which range from upmarket to mass-market. Antique hunters should make their way to Notting Hill’s Portobello Road (W10 5TA) for the best in all things vintage. The area is comprised of several markets ranging from fashion and food to vintage clothing and accessories. Saturday is the big day, when the full market takes place. You’ll also find lots of antique shops selling everything from ancient globes to 17th-century silver and ceramics. A mecca for all things food-related, Borough Market (8 Southwark St, SE1 1TL) sits in the shadow of Southwark Cathedral as well as The Shard and specialises in selling well-sourced organic food with an emphasis on provenance – everything from truffles to

charcuterie. Photographers will also delight in the wonderful scene, with the market’s many characters matching the colourful produce. Spitalfields (Horner Square, Spitalfields, E1 6EW), near Liverpool Street station, is one of London’s oldest markets and offers a mix of contemporary and vintage fashions, music, children’s toys, jewellery and home interiors. You do not have to worry about the weather when you visit, as the market

is housed under a canopy. Sunday is the busiest day – you can browse 200 stalls, including a specialist organic market. Crafts, alternative fashion, jewellery, home furnishings and souvenirs – the list goes on. Camden Market (Camden Lock Place, NW1 8AF) is one of London’s biggest and liveliest – there are several markets centring on the lock and the high street, as well as bars and restaurants to suit all tastes. This summer, Camden Lock is hosting Backyard Cinema. Films are suitably musical, given the heritage of the area, and include Marley (8 Aug), Cobain (9 Aug), A Hard Day’s Night (10 Aug), Purple Rain (12 Aug), Blues Brothers (13 Aug) and Ray (14 Aug). Reggae beats will be playing during the Carnival Warm Up, which takes place at the Lockside Lounge (13 Aug). Beginning at 4pm, you can dance the night away until the early hours – the event finishes at 3am. So get ready to have a wander and splash your cash.

IMAGES © ISTOCK

Shopping and sunshine are a great combination, so make the most of summer and browse for everything from souvenirs to vintage clothing in the open air. Paul Critcher wanders around the best markets in London

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IN T ERN AT ION A L . INDI V IDUA L . IN S T Y L E .

DESTINATION WESTFIELD L ONDON’S ULT IM AT E SHOPPING E X PERIENCE

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE WHERE PASS LONDON, VISIT WHEREPASSLONDON.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most shops are open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, Sun 11am-4pm, and some open late on Thur evening. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 88-89

Westfield Stratford City PASS PARTNER Europe’s largest shopping centre. www.westfield. com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 0208221 7300. Off map. Station: Stratford.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Links of London

Jewellery and watch brands with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Pandora Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Wempe Big selection of luxury jewellery and watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299. E6. Station: Bond Street.

KID’S STORES

Fast fashion

Nickelodeon

In 1976 James Hunt won the Japanese Grand Prix in a thrilling rain-soaked race. To commemorate this great sporting moment, Belstaff has collaborated with his sons, Freddie and Tom, to create a capsule collection. Launched last month, there are T-shirts carrying a reproduction of Hunt’s signature on black denim jeans and jackets that are made from hand-waxed leather and a new soya wax cotton. Items start at £75. 135/137 New Bond St, W1S 2TQ. T: 020-7495 5897. www.belstaff.com. E6. Station: Bond Street/Green Park

Fenwick Fashion store with designer names. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Fortnum & Mason This British company is famed for its food hall. There is also a branch at St Pancras International. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys One of the world’s biggest toy shops. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Edwardian food halls and men and women’s fashion. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Liberty Famous for its prints and designer fashions. MonSat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

House of Fraser Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Covetable fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted department store. Mon-Wed; Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Selfridges The finest products in beauty and fashion. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Bicester Village

Buckingham Palace Shop

Royal souvenirs. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

John Bell & Croyden

John Lewis

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS

SPECIALIST STORES

The pharmacy to the Queen has a walk-in clinic for vaccinations. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

London Glassblowing Glass art and workshops. www.londonglass blowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

M&M’s World PASS PARTNER Sweet treats. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Prestat

JOIN TH

One of London’s oldest chocolate You’re alm PASS PARTNER shops. Please check for times. o st there! Find the b Discount designer clothes www.prestat.co.uk. 14 Princes ear on p. a 66 n d h e will te at this relaxed haven in the Arcade, SW1Y 6DS. T: 020-8961 you can m ll you how eet Hamle Oxfordshire countryside. 8555. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus. ys’ iconic ch aracters Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat in the sto Twinings re 9am-8pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Fine teas. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; www.bicestervillage.com. Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm. Bicester Village, Bicester, www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service We Built This City from major hotels. Quirky souvenirs. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Westfield London Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus. PASS PARTNER The Whisky Exchange A massive west London mall that is home to Specialist retailer of fine whiskies and spirits. more than 300 stores and numerous restaurants. www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush. 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

E HUNT

IMAGE COURTESY OF BELSTAFF

MAJOR STORES

TV merchandise. Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am11pm; Sun noon-6pm. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

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NICKELODEON STORE LONDON

15

@NickStoreLondon #NICKSTORELONDON

Visit us in-store at Leicester Square OR on-line at www.nickelodeonSTORE.co.uk

%

purchases over £35. Valid until 31st August 2016. purchas

To redeem, brbring this coupon into the store or use promo code ode on-line: on-line:GIFT GIFTFTF

IMAGE COURTESY OF BELSTAFF

Limit one per person, per visit. Cannot be combined with other coupons or discounts. May not be redeemed any other retail ail locations. © 2016 Viacom International Inc. All Rights Reserved. SpongeBob SquarePants created by Stephen Hillenburg. TEENAGE MU MUTANT NINJA TURTLES © Viacom Overseas Holdings C.V. © 2016 Spin Master. All Rights Reserved.

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Pretty picnics When the sun is shining, there’s nothing nicer than a lazy lunch alfresco, says Sam Rogg. Better still, you don’t even have to prepare your own picnic, as all the hard work has been done for you ‘O my! O my!’ says Mole about the contents of a ‘fat, wicker luncheon basket’ in the British classic The Wind in the Willows, first published in 1908. In the book, the author Kenneth Grahame is, of course, referring to a picnic, one full of cold meats, cress sandwiches and ginger beer. Flash forward to 2016, and much has changed for Britain’s traditional summer pastime, though many of Mole’s favourite fillings still remain. Nowhere is this tasty evolution more visible than in London, where picnics are aplenty this month and, best of all, they come ready-made. When The Arch London hotel’s Hunter 486 restaurant launched its ‘Best of British’ menu last year, it was met with acclaim. Developed with Henrietta Green, author of Food Lovers’ Guide to Britain, the menu also features Posh Picnic Hampers. Enjoy smoked-salmon sandwiches, homemade crisps, poached chicken, macarons and Champagne – best enjoyed in nearby Hyde Park (from £45.50; Great Cumberland Place, W1H 7FD).

Think picnics can’t be luxurious? Think again. At Dukes London, a boutique hotel near Buckingham Palace, your picnic comes with butler service and a linen tableclothcum-picnic rug, so you can feel like royalty. After escorting you to your chosen spot in nearby Green Park, the butler will lay everything out then leave you to enjoy your feast. Choose from three menus, including vegetarian and children’s options. Freshly made dishes include poached salmon, piri-piri chicken and a sublime broccoli, pine nut

and avocado quiche. Thick wedges of artisan cheese and elegant desserts are kept chilled in a cool bag, alongside an optional bottle of Champagne. When you’ve finished, just give the hotel a call and the butler will reappear to pack everything up (from £35; St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY). If you fancy a picnic by the river, then look no further than The Butlers Wharf Chop House. Inside its rustic hampers you’ll find meat or vegetarian sandwiches, a cheese platter, crudités and dips, plus strawberries and cream, served on the terrace overlooking the Thames (from £35; 36e Shad Thames, SE1 2YE). Can’t wait until lunchtime to start your picnic? You don’t have to at the Charlotte Street Hotel. With its selection of croissants, muffins, sandwiches, granola bars and fruit salad, the hotel’s Breakfast Hamper is sure to get your day off to the right start (from £40; 15-17 Charlotte St, W1T 1RJ). Most picnics require ordering at least 24 hours in advance.

DUKES LONDON IMAGES © GARRY@MODOPUBLISHING.COM; THE ARCH LONDON IMAGES COURTESY OF THE ARCH LONDON

DINING | THE GUIDE

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch), D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 88-89

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) The Colony Grill Room This wood-panelled room inside The Beaumont serves US grill fare. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.colony grillroom.com. The Beaumont, 8 Balderton St, W1K 6TN. T: 020-7499 9499. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint with music memorabilia. ££. Daily L & D. www.hard rock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 0207514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Heliot Steak House

St Pancras Grand

Park Terrace

Brasserie located in St Pancras station. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Located in the Royal Garden Hotel London, the restaurant overlooks Kensington Gardens. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.parkterracerestaurant.co.uk. 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7937 8000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Tom’s Kitchen Delightful all-day brasserie serving modern comfort food. Popular for weekend brunch. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tomskitchen.co.uk. 27 Cale St, SW3 3QP (and branches). T: 020-7349 0202. Off map. Station: South Kensington.

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Café in the Crypt

Upmarket steak house in a casino. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodromecasino.com. Hippodrome Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Great café underneath a landmark church. £. MonSat B, L & D; Sun B & L. www.smitf.org. St Martinin-the-Fields, corner of Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Planet Hollywood

Mews of Mayfair

Huge London outlet of the international chain. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planet hollywood.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforest cafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

STK London

This stunning four-floored venue includes a brasserie, private dining room, lounge and bar, an art gallery and a courtyard with alfresco tables. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Old Masters Carvery and Grill Room Dine under ornate chandeliers and high ceilings in this popular buffet-style carvery. ££££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Ritz Restaurant One of London’s prettiest dining rooms. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar Relaxed bar-restaurant in Theatreland. Try the Aberdeen Angus roast beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB (and Chelsea branch). T: 020-7836 8836. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

CHINESE Bright Courtyard Club Wonderful Cantonese and Shanghai dishes in a sophisticated setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.brightcourtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Chai Wu Luxury dishes in this amazing restaurant in the iconic department store Harrods (p. 75). ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat L & D. www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Dine on British and American prime steaks in the ME London hotel’s steak house. ££££. Daily L & D. www.stkhouse.com. ME Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

BRITISH (MODERN) Cheneston’s Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes such as saffron risotto. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestone hotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Fera at Claridge’s Chef Simon Rogan serves food made with organic ingredients. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk/fera. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Garfunkel’s Popular British dishes, plus pizzas, pasta, wraps and a salad bar. Many West End and central locations. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.garfunkels. co.uk. 19 Irving St, WC2H 7AU. T: 020-7930 8087. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

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Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the iconic Reading Room. ££. Sat-Thur 11.30am-5.30pm; Fri 11.30am-8.30pm. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Indigo at One Aldwych All-day restaurant serving seasonal food inside hotel One Aldwych. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com. 1 Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Make the medicine go down Artist Damien Hirst’s first restaurant Pharmacy became one of London’s hottest dining tickets during its five-year tenure in Notting Hill, frequented by diners including David Bowie and Kate Moss. Now Hirst has re-booted his original vision with the help of chef and good friend Mark Hix, launching Pharmacy 2 at the artist’s Newport Street Gallery. The interior echoes Hirst’s Pharmacy art installation that debuted in 1992 – expect walls lined with medicines, bar stools shaped like giant pills and windows decorated with DNA strands. The menu features home comforts reimagined in contemporary incarnations, such as brick a l’oeuf, linguine with Portland crab and chilli, and tender duck curry. Newport Street Gallery, Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9333. www.pharmacyrestaurant.com. Off map. Station: Vauxhall/Kennington

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DINING Chi Kichen

Moorish food

Pan-Asian restaurant in Debenhams department store (p. 74). ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen. co.uk. Debenhams (ground floor), 334-338 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street.

Thanks to the 1999 film and carnival, Notting Hill is a tourist attraction, but the Moroccan restaurant Zayane is just far enough away from it to give you an authentic view of the area. Michelin-starred Chris Bower is head chef and his innovative menu is full of delights: try lamb mechoui with aubergine caponata and saffron-marinated trout with cauliflower couscous. The weekday lunch is perfect if you’re in a hurry and there’s also a bottomless brunch. 91 Golborne Rd, W10 5NL. T: 020-8960 1137. www.zayane restaurant.com. Off map. Station: Notting Hill

Hakkasan Multi-award-winning restaurant and bar which justifies the hype. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Min Jiang Take in glorious views across Hyde Park while enjoying superb Sichuan cuisine. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.

Ping Pong Tasty dim sum and rice dishes, with a good vibe and prices. ££. www.pingpongdimsum.com. 45 Great Marlborough St, W1F 7JL (and branches). T: 020-7851 6969. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Club Gascon

1 Lombard Street

FRENCH

A mouth-watering selection of gutsy, modern cooking in the brasserie and a more expensive dishes in the restaurant of this former bank. Brasserie: £££; Restaurant: ££££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

Exquisite food from this three Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Galvin at Windows

Aubaine

Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester

Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern haute cuisine. Booking essential; smart dress. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvin atwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

A wonderful combination of a Parisian salon and a Provençal bistro. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.aubaine.co.uk. 260-262 Brompton Rd, SW3 2AS (and branches). T: 020-7052 0100. F5. Station: South Kensington.

The Ivy

Bel Canto

One of London’s great restaurants and a favourite with celebrities. £££-££££. Daily L & D. Last orders at midnight. www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Waiters (music students) perform opera while you dine. ££££. Two-course set D £54; three-course £59. Wed-Sat D. www.belcantolondon.co.uk. Corus Hotel Hyde Park, 1 Lancaster Gate, W2 3LG. T: 020-7262 1678. E4. Station: Lancaster Gate.

SixtyOne Restaurant

Boundary

This restaurant serves great food full of big, bold flavours. Tue-Sat L & D. £££. www.sixtyone restaurant.co.uk. 61 Upper Berkeley St, W1H 7PP. T: 020-7958 3222. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Terence Conran’s French restaurant. £££. Mon-Sat D; Sun L. www.theboundary.co.uk. 2-4 Boundary St, E2 7DD. T: 020-7729 1051. Off map. Station: Shoreditch High Street.

Ting

Brasserie Joël

This restaurant in The Shard serves European dishes with an Asian influence. Daily B, L & D. ££££. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 0207234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

FISH AND SEAFOOD Mr Fish

This French brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare and tournedos Rossini. ££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel

Galvin Bistrot de Luxe Parisian-style bistro. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvinrestaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Le Pont de la Tour Stunning riverside restaurant serves classic French dishes in a 19th-century former tea warehouse. £££. Daily L & D. www.lepontdela tour.co.uk. 36D Shad Thames, SE1 2YE. T: 0207403 8403. Off map. Station: London Bridge.

GASTROPUBS The Eagle One of London’s first gastropubs. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.theeaglefarringdon.co.uk. 159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL. T: 020-7837 1353. D9. Station: Farringdon.

The Thomas Cubitt Classic dining room. £££. Daily L & D. www.thethomascubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.

Try the traditional East End favourites, pie and mash, and jellied eels with parsley liquor

Fish and chips. £. Daily L & D. www.mrfishuk.com. 51 Salusbury Rd, NW6 6NJ. T: 020-7624 8181. Off map. Station: Queen’s Park.

Bustling French brasserie. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Sea Shell

Celeste

Enjoy classic fish and chips in this much-loved institution. Mon-Sat L & D. ££. www.seashell restaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.

Imaginative Michelin-starred French cuisine from Gascony and an award-winning wine list. £££-££££. Tue-Fri L; Mon-Sat D. www.club gascon.com. 57 West Smithfield, EC1A 9DS. T: 020-7600 6144. D9. Station: Farringdon.

French-inspired cuisine. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Wells This bright and airy pub boasts top-quality British cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.thewellshampstead.co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

INDIAN Amaya

Wonderful Belgravia restaurant, where Karunesh Khanna’s Michelin-starred food is cooked in the dramatic show kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. 19 Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

ZAYANE COURTESY OF ZAYANE

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: amaya@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for breakfast from Monday to Friday; lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday. 73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: chutneymary@realindianfood.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: veeraswamy@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING

INTERNATIONAL

Benares

Little India

Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates modern Indian cuisine. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

This cosy establishment near the Royal Albert Hall in South Kensington specialises in dishes from Bengal. ££. Daily L & D. www.littleindialondon.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Chor Bizarre

Masala Grill

This popular restaurant specialises in cuisine from north India. £££. Mon-Sat L; daily D. www.chor bizarre.com. 16 Albemarle St, W1S 4HW. T: 0207629 9802. E7. Station: Green Park.

Dine on grills, seafood, street food and curries. ££. Daily L & D. www.masalagrill.co. 535 King’s Rd, SW10 0SZ. T: 020-7351 3113. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Chutney Mary

Masala Zone

This gourmet Indian restaurant has been popular with Londoners for more than 20 years – expect a tour of seven Indian regions. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Informal dining in this good-value restaurant. Start with chaat (street snacks), then tuck into a grand thali. £. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masala zone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Gaylord

Memories of India

London’s second-oldest Indian restaurant is famed for its award-winning tandoori that is fit for a maharajah. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylord london.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Authentic flavours from the north of India. ££. Daily L & D. www.memoriesofindia.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Classic Italian dishes. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.gigismayfair.com. 22 Woodstock St, W1C 2AR. T: 020-7499 8743. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Mint Leaf

Verdi

Khan’s of Kensington

Contemporary Indian dishes are the trademark of this stylish restaurant. Try the grilled prawns with fenugreek. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mint leafgroup.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

This popular restaurant serves great vegetarian and fish dishes. The décor is particularly striking. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansofkensington.co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. G4. Station: South Kensington.

La Porte des Indes Indian cuisine with a Gallic twist, inspired by the Pondicherry region. £££. Daily L & D. www.la portedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant marries an opulent interior with stylish cuisine. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Sarastro Theatrical décor, with arias from Royal Opera House singers (Sun-Mon). ££. Daily L & D. www.sarastro restaurant.com. 126 Drury Lane, WC2B 5SU. T: 020-7836 0101. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SushiSamba Fusion food. £££. Daily L & D. www.sushisamba.com. 38th floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 0203640 7330. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

ITALIAN Cicchetti Outstanding small plates and a buzzy atmosphere. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7240 6339. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Gigi’s

Casual dining. ££. Daily L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

JAPANESE & KOREAN Engawa Small but excellent sushi spot. The Kobe beef is exquisite. £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Matsuri Innovative dining in this lovely restaurant. £££. Daily L & D. www.matsuri-restaurant.com. 15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E7. Station: Green Park.

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Yasmeen Wonderful authentic dishes influenced by Lebanese and Syrian cuisines. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

RIVERSIDE Bateaux London

If you can never decide on a dessert, then this restaurant dedicated to sweets will suit you perfectly. Hotel Café Royal’s executive pastry chef Sarah Barber has created five new menus for The Café. Each is made up of sweet and savoury dishes, which can be paired with wine. Inspired by childhood memories of her grandfather, who was once a head chef here, Barber’s playful offerings include strawberry and cream lollipops and the Wham Bam Pow – an edible box decorated like a Marvel comic, filled with popping candy and gold-dusted chocolate mousse. They are simply delicious. Hotel Café Royal, 68 Regent St, W1B 4DY. T: 020-7406 3333. www.hotelcaferoyal.com. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus

London Showboat Drift down the River Thames past London’s landmarks while enjoying a delicious four-course dinner. Nightly £80 per person; booking essential. Departs from Westminster Pier 7.30pm. www.city cruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 0207740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

RS Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames with exceptional food. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/ Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

DESSERT COURTESY OF HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL

Just desserts

See London’s sights on a delightful river cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. Nightly evening cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

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DESSERT COURTESY OF HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL

HOLLYWOOD INSPIRED DINING IN THE HEART OF LONDON S AVO UR THE AU THENTIC FL AVOURS OF INDIA

Experience Indian food as it’s meant to be at Masala Grill. With our expertly cooked regional dishes and richly decorated restaurant, a visit to Masala Grill (in the former home of Chutney Mary) is a feast for all the senses. We’re open every evening for dinner and on Sundays for our famous buffet lunch. Rediscover your passion for Indian food at Masala Grill. 535 KINGS ROAD LONDON SW10 0SZ 020 7351 7788 | MASALAGRILL.CO | RESERVATIONS@MASALAGRILL.CO

APPETISERS • STEAKS • RIBS FA J I TA S • B U R G E R S • F I S H PA S TA S • P I Z Z A S • A S I A N SALADS•SANDWICHES D E S S E R T S • C O C K TA I L S

HOME STYLE COOKING ‘Temple to good taste’ One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a lady. Dinner bookings are strongly recommended as Little India is really little!

RESTAURANT OPEN ‘TIL MIDNIGHT (11PM SUN) BAR OPEN ‘TIL 1AM (MIDNIGHT SUN)

20% OFF

FOOD/SOFT DRINKS/MERCHANDISE Not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Payment by cash or debit/credit card only. Discount applies to a la carte menu (excluding kids’ menu). Valid daily (except 5pm to 9pm Saturday) until 30/12/16. Not valid 25/12/16. Subject to availability. 1 voucher per table maximum 8 persons. Code WHERE. Please show this advert to your server before ordering.

TO BOOK PLEASE CALL

32 Gloucester Road, London SW7 4RB

Tel: 020 7584 3476 020 7589 9315

020 7287 1000 planethollywoodlondon.com

57-60 HAYMARKET LONDON SW1Y 4QX

TUBE: PICCADILLY CIRCUS OR LEICESTER SQ

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118mm x124mm

DINING

Authenticity with flair There is nothing quite typical about good Indian food. The quality and variety that we serve at the Gaylord Restaurant on Mortimer Street (near Westend and Oxford Street) is enough to draw foodies of all nationalities from miles away. Add to that, the innovative and contemporary food presentation makes a dining experience here stand apart. The restaurant has been a British Curry Award finalist and has been serving authentic Indian food since 1966!

SOUTH EAST ASIAN Blue Elephant

Riverside Thai restaurant. £££. TueSun D; Sun L. www.blueelephant.com. Boulevard, Imperial Wharf, Townsmead Rd, SW6 2UB. T: 0207751 3111. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Mango Tree This elegant restaurant near Buckingham Palace serves classic Thai dishes. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Thai Pot This popular spot serves truly fantastic food. MonSat L & D. £. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SPANISH El Pirata Busy tapas bar-restaurant. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Ibérica Victoria Traditional dishes are given a modern twist. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com.

5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria. 79-81 Mortimer Street London W1W 7SJ 020 7580 3615 www.gaylordlondon.com

BRIGHT COURTYARD CLUB restaurant · lounge · events

Sophisticated, fashionable yet discreet, we are definitely the ideal venue for your important lunch meeting, tranquil afternoon tea or full-filled dinner party. BCY offer our guests an all-day grazing experience, specializing in authentic dim sum, modern Cantonese and traditional Shanghai cuisine with a twist. The two Private Dining Suits can accommodate 8 and 20 guests. Our glass-roofed Courtyard Lounge can accommodate 200 seated or 250 standing.

43-45 Baker Street London W1U 8EW t: 020 7486 6998 www.brightcourtyard.co.uk

Eastern promise There’s more to Oxford Street than world-class shopping. Nestled in the department store Debenhams, Chi Kitchen (p. 70) is a contemporary panAsian restaurant boasting some seriously stylish and tasty cuisine. For breakfast, try the Kaya toast with Singaporean coconut jam. The dim sum and sushi platters are perfect for sharing after a shopping spree.

VEGETARIAN Tibits Buffet-style dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits. co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Well-flavoured cuisine from throughout India. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant. co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

CHICKEN SATAY DISH COURTESY OF CHI KITCHEN

Bright Courtyard Club is part of the Shanghai life Fashion Group, our motto is innovation, style and quality. Bright Courtyard Club London, is a contemporary Chinese restaurant situated in the landmark building, 55 Baker Street.

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For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist

Great food in Trafalgar Square – whatever the weather • Open daily for al fresco dining behind St Martin-in-the-Fields • Take away and table service • Breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea

CHAI WU For a different afternoon tea experience, head to the top of the iconic department store, Harrods, where you’ll find the slick and modern Chai Wu restaurant (above). Take your pick from a wide selection of intriguing Chinese teas, exquisitely paired with five courses of contemporary oriental bite-sized delights, with an optional glass of Champagne. The hot dim sum, scallops and chicken positively burst with flavour and the whole experience is rounded off with some delicate mini mango and green tea-flavoured desserts. Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk

THE SAVOY Celebrate the Queen’s 90th year with a Royal Afternoon Tea at this world-famous hotel. Developed in collaboration with royal chef Darren McGrady, the menu is a true representation of Her Majesty’s tastes, including potted shrimp with melba toast, smoked-salmon gravadlax and ‘jam penny’ sandwiches – her childhood favourite. After some warm scones with clotted cream and compote, it’s on to chocolate biscuit cake, a regular feature at Buckingham Palace. You’ll also indulge in classics such as raspberry tartlets and a birthday cake made using a recipe that dates back to Queen Victoria’s reign. Strand, WC2R 0EU. T: 020-7836 4343. www.fairmont.com/savoy-london

• Evening meals including platters to share and full wine list www.smitf.org

Read our reviews on

ENJOY THE THALI AT

REAL INDIAN FOOD SPECIAL DEALS AT LUNCH

LE MÉRIDIEN PICCADILLY

AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF CHAI WU

CHICKEN SATAY DISH COURTESY OF CHI KITCHEN

Time for tea

To celebrate the release of the acclaimed Disney film The Jungle Book, this grand hotel on Piccadilly is offering a fabulous Jungle Afternoon Tea that your little monkeys will love. Treats they’re certain to wolf down include duck egg sandwiches, a banana leaf veggie parcel, a rainbow fruit skewer, animalprint cookies and banana scones with pineapple jam and clotted cream, along with a banana and pineapple juice mocktail. There’s even a snake-shaped eclair they can decorate while the grown-ups relax with a more traditional afternoon tea, perhaps with a glass of Champagne. A roaring success. 21 Piccadilly, W1J 0BH. T: 020-7734 8000. www.lemeridienpiccadilly.co.uk

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .CO M

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W H E R E

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BEST OF LONDON DINING Chi Kitchen Contemporary pan-Asian restaurant Chi Kitchen opened last year on the ground floor of Debenhams on Oxford Street. The word ‘chi’, in Chinese, means energy, and the restaurant strives to offer good energy, as well as great food, to hungry shoppers. The open-plan restaurant lets you watch the chefs prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. Chi Kitchen will take you on a unique culinary journey through south east Asia. Mention ‘Where London’ when you book to enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal at Chi Kitchen. Mon-Sat 7.30am-11pm (last orders 10.15pm), Sun 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9.15pm).

Mango Tree

Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus

Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish environment. Its innovative yet classic cuisine is made from the finest ingredients. Enjoy genuine Thai dishes from the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild, Chinese-style dishes from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south. Mention ‘Where London’ when booking, and enjoy a free glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal. Monday-Wed noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun noon-10.30pm. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ (also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL). T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria

Khans of Kensington Visit Khans of Kensington for delicious, genuine Indian cuisine which a core of devotees have been enjoying for many years. The restaurant prides itself on its modern take on traditional North Indian cuisine, with mouthwatering dishes such as its famous fish koliwada and lamb chop in honey sauce. The expansive menu covers many dishes, but if you don’t see your personal favourite on the menu, just ask the team of expert chefs and they will be more than happy to set that right. The restaurant is just a minute’s walk from South Kensington tube station. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm.

Memories of India

3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. www.khansofkensington.co.uk. Station: South Kensington

At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have a private room for parties and corporate functions. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734. www.memoriesofindia.com. Station: Gloucester Road.

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BEST OF LONDON DINING Chai Wu Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the Fifth Floor of the iconic department store, Harrods, in Knightsbridge. The restaurant design incorporates the five elements of Chinese philosophy: wood, metal, water, earth and fire, creating an elegant, opulent and welcoming dining setting. The tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as black truffle sour soup and Chilean sea bass dumpling with gold leaf, as well as luxurious dishes including Beijing duck and wagyu steak. Mon-Sat noon-9pm (last orders 8.30pm), Sun noon-6pm (last orders 5.15pm)

El Pirata

5th Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. Informal, inexpensive and above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Hardens), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm, Sat 6pm-11.30pm, closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315 www.elpirata.co.uk Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Yasmeen Restaurant Yasmeen Restaurant brings a piece of the Middle East to north London, offering a variety of authentic dishes with menus influenced by Lebanese and Syrian cuisines. Named after the famous Jasmine flower of Damascus, the restaurant provides an exceptional dining experience in a welcoming, intimate atmosphere. Close to many tourist attractions such as Regents Park, ZSL London Zoo, Madame Tussauds and Lord’s Cricket Ground. Mon-Sat noon–11:30pm, Sun noon–10:30pm.

Chor Bizarre

1 Blenheim Terrace, St. John’s Wood, London NW8 Tel: 020 7624 2921 www.yasmeenrestaurant.com Station: St. John’s Wood

Much-feted Chor Bizarre on Albemarle Street in Mayfair offers a distinctive ambience. Its fabulous interior has been given a makeover, with gorgeous furnishings sourced from bazaars in India. It’s not surprising that Chor Bizarre, the London branch of New Delhi’s eternal favourite, has been judged ‘One of the 50 most romantic places in the world’ and included ‘among the Top 10 Restaurants in London for Fun and Atmosphere’ by The Independent newspaper, as well as ‘The best North Indian Restaurant in the UK’ by The Cobra Good Curry Guide. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm. 16 Albemarle St, W1S 4HW T: 020-7629 9802 www.chorbizarre.com Station: Green Park

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WHERE LONDON | PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar is the place to go for a meal to remember. Sam Rogg visits the restaurant and discovers how it has been raising the steaks for more than 10 years 78 W H E R E LO N D O N I AU G U S T 2016

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IMAGES COURTESY OF SOPHIE'S STEAKHOUSE & BAR

his place is blessed with space,’ smiles general manager Emily Sparling (pictured) inside Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar in Covent Garden, one of the West End’s most famous restaurants and a popular venue for watching this month’s Olympic Games (5-21 Aug). ‘We’ve got a big screen at one end of the restaurant which people can book to watch key events. The restaurant is big so people never wait long for a table. That’s our speciality.’ In fact, it’s just one of many specialities that Sophie’s has perfected over the years. Surrounded by some of London’s greatest museums, shops and theatres, Sophie’s is the ideal spot for a leisurely lunch, pre-show dinner, late-night bite or well-crafted cocktail. Opened in 2008 by lifelong friends Sophie Bathgate and Rupert Power, the restaurant has become one of London’s finest steakhouses, offering succulent beef cuts alongside fresh fish, barbecue ribs, big salads, homemade desserts and a scrumptious kids’ menu. For Bathgate and Power, who set up their first steakhouse on Chelsea’s Fulham Road in 2002, the aim was simple: to create a female-friendly steakhouse with a focus on quality ingredients, value for money and fun. ‘I think a lot of people mistake us for a New York-style steakhouse,’ says Sparling, perhaps realising the similarities it has with US steakhouses such as Peter Luger in Brooklyn. ‘We like New York-style steakhouses but we’re all about British, locally-sourced food here, from our handpicked Cornish crab to the meat we get from Sophie’s family farm.’ FARMTOPLATE The secret to Sophie’s enormous success is a farm-to-plate concept. It all starts with meat sourced in Devon, Cornwall and Bathgate’s own farm. ‘Sophie grew up on a farm in Oxfordshire where we still get quite a lot of our meat from,’ explains Sparling. ‘All the cows are Aberdeen Angus, which is quite something. We take our staff there regularly to meet them and see how it all works.’ When the primal cuts of native breeds arrive at the restaurant, they are dry-aged in the restaurant’s own meat-hanging room, which is viewable from the curved dining booths that punctuate the capacious wooden floor. These cuts are butchered daily by Sophie’s multi-skilled chefs, creating the menu’s popular ‘Chef Cuts’ of chateaubriand, Porterhouse, double entrecôte and côte de boeuf.

Clockwise from main: the restaurant; head chef Sam; Chilli Martini and general manager Emily Sparling

‘A lot of love goes into our steaks, from the minute the meat arrives to the moment we serve it to our customers,’ says Sparling of the process, which includes resting the meat before it’s ready to serve. ‘Chateaubriand comes in a variety of sizes, from 20oz to 50oz, and it’s not your average cut. It’s a delicious, lean, melt-in-your-mouth kind of fillet. It’s perfect for sharing, too.’ MORE THAN JUST STEAKS Not content with just mastering steaks, Sophie’s boasts one of the city’s most delicious Sunday roasts, which features slow-roasted beef and all the trimmings you would expect from this most traditional of British lunches. There are even smaller sized roasts available each Sunday for kids, which are free in the Covent Garden venue. Then there’s the 10oz Black Angus burger, made with cross rib and minced carpacciostyle. Served inside a fluffy brioche bun beside hand-cut beef-dripping fries, this burger is so exquisitely prepared that it can be cooked from blue to well done, just like a steak, a process that Sparling is proud to

offer. ‘Mincing in-house allows us to prepare the beef in our own way,’ she says. ‘Carpacciostyle burgers are quite unique – a lot of other places can’t do it – but it means we can cook them just the way people like it.’ The man behind the beef is head chef Sam Hafri who leads a 20-strong team in a kitchen that never stops. Hafri’s hands-on approach to cuisine is well-suited to Sophie’s, which is known for preparing virtually everything in-house, from the mayonnaise to the ice cream and the house wine which Bathgate and Powers crafted themselves in France. The bar staff even infuse their own spirits. ‘The Chilli Martini is incredible,’ says Sparling of Sophie’s 10oz Martini menu. ‘It’s made with chilli-infused vanilla vodka.’ In London, 10oz Martinis are not a usual sight, but then there’s nothing about Sophie’s that screams ‘usual’. ‘It’s not your standard dining experience,’ agrees Sparling. ‘It’s more like: “We’re having a big party, come and join in.” That’s our vibe.’ And on a visit to London, that’s just the kind of invitation you want. To book an Olympic Games viewing table, please ask your concierge or email emily@ sophiessteakhouse.com and quote Where London or call T: 020-7836 8836. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk www.wheretraveler.com 79

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE

Make the most of summer in the city by heading out into the great outdoors. Sam Rogg picks the best gardens where you can enjoy a drink or two in a leafy, secluded oasis At the end of a summer’s day, Londoners like to make the most of the balmy nights by heading to the nearest ‘beer garden’ – a secluded oasis at the back of many traditional British pubs. Despite the name, you’re not limited to beers in these popular outdoor areas. But be prepared to travel a bit for the best of the bunch, as the further from Soho you go, the bigger and leafier the beer gardens get. The prize for the best view (and strangest name) must surely go to the Perkin Reveller (The Wharf, Tower of London, EC3N 4AB). Situated on the historic Tower Wharf, at the foot of Tower Bridge, this contemporary drinking spot serves up some killer cocktails, not to mention excellent British fare. We recommend the White Tower for its unique blend of white tequila, coconut liqueur, espresso and agave syrup. There is an extensive wine list plus locally brewed beers, and one of the two bars inside is handcrafted from an antique church pulpit.

For something more refined, head to Georgian gem The Albion in beautiful Islington (10 Thornhill Rd, N1 1HW). You’ll find it hard to tear yourself away from the quaint English interiors with its dark wood floors and ye olde features but venture into the beer garden and you’ll be greeted by luscious trees, colourful flowers and a sizzling barbecue.

Quality wines and draught beers will quench your thirst, and the atmosphere is blissfully local and relaxed. Walking into The Mayflower (117 Rotherhithe St, SE16 4NF) in Rotherhithe is like stepping back into the 16th century. Built almost 400 years ago as a mooring point for a ship, this pub is the oldest on the river and the perfect spot to watch the boats go by from the pub’s beautiful jetty at the back. Pair your ale, craft beer, wine or carafe of port with a wedge from the pub’s dedicated cheese list. If it’s a more fashionable vibe you seek, pull up a chair at The People’s Park Tavern (360 Victoria Park Rd, E9 7BT) in Hackney, which has regularly been voted one of the best beer gardens in London. In addition to a large, sun-drenched outdoor area, the pub boasts its own brewery and tap room with more than 70 beers from around the world on offer, plus an art gallery and views of the neighbouring greenery of Victoria Park.

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WINE BOTTLES COURTESY OF SHEPHERD MARKET WINE HOUSE

Glorious gardens

THE ALBION GARDEN COURTESY OF THE ALBION; PINT OF BEER © ISTOCK; THE PEOPLE’S PARK TAVERN GARDEN COURTESY OF THE PEOPLE’S PARK TAVERN; THE MAYFLOWER GARDEN COURTESY OF THE MAYFLOWER; DISH COURTESY OF THE ALBION

Clockwise from top left: The Albion; a traditional pint of beer; The People’s Park Tavern; The Mayflower Below: The Albion


FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: inc Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map (p. 88-89)

TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This splendid Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened more than 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. Figures who have visited in the past include John Constable and George Orwell. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Lord Byron and Percy Bysshe Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.theflaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

City Social

Cocktails and a selection of wines by the glass served in a chic setting. www.bellamysrestaurant. co.uk. 18/18a Bruton Place, W1J 6LY. T: 020-7491 2727. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Jason Atherton offers spectacular food and drink surrounded by breathtaking views of London. The bar, with its Prohibition-inspired cocktail list, is impressive. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 95ft-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. Its Victorian heritage lives on in its décor and the menus. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Brooklyn Bowl This fun music venue at The O2 arena boasts a 12-lane bowling alley, three bars and a restaurant serving US favourites, from delicious burgers to fried chicken. www.brooklynbowl.com. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-7412 8778. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

BYOC

Creative, bohemian types love this quirky pub in the heart of Soho. www.frenchhousesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ simply pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the innovative mixologist will create cocktails for you. You are advised to book in advance, as it can get busy. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE. T: 0203441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.

The George Inn

Cartizze Bar

The French House

This historic pub was established during the Medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Magpie & Stump

Timeless luxury Bellini and cocktail destination with splendid Art Deco surroundings and excellent service. Take advantage of its £1 oyster happy hour Tue-Sun 5pm-6pm. Closed Mon. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. E6. Station: Bond Street.

C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) A well-stocked, retro-styled cocktail bar. Tastings, classes and tours are also available. www.cityof londondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3446. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

The Dolls House This stylish cocktail bar and private members’ club offers mixed drinks in The Parlour and is tastefully furnished. There is also a first-rate food menu that features locally sourced produce. www.thedead dollsclub.com. 181 Upper St, N1 1RQ. T: 020-7288 1470. D7. Station: Highbury & Islington.

Drakes Tabanco A popular Spanish-style bar that serves rare sherries which have been aged in ancient oak barrels. There’s Andalucian tapas to choose from, too. www.drakestabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Experimental Cocktail Club This bar in an old Chinatown townhouse is tucked away but worth the search for its stylish cocktails. Booking is recommended. www.experimental cocktailclublondon.com. 13a Gerrard St, W1D 5PS. T: 020-7434 3559. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

This pub, opposite the Old Bailey, dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair-based pub-cum-restaurant was once owned by the film director and Madonna’s ex-husband, Guy Ritchie. Enjoy a variety of ales in the unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowl london.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 0207-493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Spaniards Inn

WINE BOTTLES COURTESY OF SHEPHERD MARKET WINE HOUSE

THE PEOPLE’S PARK TAVERN; THE MAYFLOWER GARDEN COURTESY OF THE MAYFLOWER; DISH COURTESY OF THE ALBION

The Bar at Bellamy’s

Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including highwayman Dick Turpin and novelist Charles Dickens, at this historic pub, which is one of the oldest in London. www.thespaniardshampstead. co.uk. Spaniards Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This landmark pub has wood-panelled walls and vaults that are thought to date back to a 13th-century Carmelite monastery which once stood here. If only its walls could talk! 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

BARS & CLUBS 68 & Boston Sophisticated Soho venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. The ground-floor wine bar boasts many varieties from lesser-known regions, and all bottles are £20. Nightly food menu. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Wining and dining Developed in the 18th century as a small square and piazza in luxurious Mayfair, Shepherd Market is a charming enclave of quaint restaurants and traditional pubs. New arrival Shepherd Market Wine House stands out for its outstanding selection of Old and New World wines, perfect for an apéritif before dinner. Choose from an ever-changing selection, including fine wines dispensed using the Coravin system. Each one is handpicked by sommelier and manager Ben Van de Meutter. ‘We only order six bottles of each, so when it’s gone it’s gone,’ he says. Great wines deserve a great pairing, so order a platter of cheese and charcuterie with artisan bread to enjoy with drinks. Don’t fancy wine? Opt for bottled beer, grape-derived liqueurs, scotch or a cigar you can smoke on the terrace. 27 Shepherd Market, W1J 7PR. T: 020-7499 8555. www.shepherdmarketwinehouse.co.uk. E6. Station: Green Park www.wheretraveler.com 81

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NIGHTLIFE Fabric

Gong

Hixter Bankside

A super-club that champions cutting-edge dance music. The venue attracts fans of dance, house, techno and dubstep played by some of the most popular DJs in the world. www.fabriclondon.com. 77a Charterhouse St, EC1M 6HJ. T: 020-7336 8898. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Located in The Shard, Gong is one of the highest Champagne bars in London and the ideal place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks with amazing views. www.shangri-la.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Mark Hix’s bar shows off his trademark interest in modern art – see an installation by Helen Chadwick of an Underground train carriage. www.hixrestaurants.co.uk. 16 Great Guildford St, SE1 0HS. T: 020-7921 9508. E9. Station: Southwark.

Freedom

Gordon’s Wine Bar

This popular gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to the stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub underneath. It is well worth a visit. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in this stone-walled basement. It is very popular and welcoming. There’s a good choice of food, including cheese platters. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

Nestled deep in the vaults of the Palladium, the club was originally an 18th-century Freemasons’ centre. www.mason-house.com. 8-9 Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 020-7734 6066. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Mason House

Mews Cocktail Bar Deep leather sofas and an exquisite 18th-century chandelier set the tone for exquisite wines, fruit cocktails and light dishes. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Nightjar Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails in this basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most nights. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

Old Bengal Bar COV EN T GA R DEN

T H E MOS T FA MOUS GE N T L E M E N’S C LU B I N T H E WOR L D!

A former warehouse in a quiet back street, this place features original brick walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16a New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Opium Cocktail Bar This stylish upstairs bar tucked away in the heart of Chinatown serves innovative Chinese-inspired cocktails. There is a great range of dim sum on offer. www.opiumchinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Oriole Spacious cocktail bar hidden beneath Smithfield Market, with live swing, jazz and blues music most nights. It boasts beautiful interiors and incredible drinks inspired by the Old World, New World and Orient. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Avenue, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Primo Bar Enjoy a range of cocktails at this laid-back bar, which stages free live music every night. www.primobar. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.

F U L L À L A C A RT E R E S TAU R A N T ( N O A DM I S S IO N C H A RG E W H E N DI N I NG)

OPEN MONDAY TO SAT U R DAY 9.00PM - 4.30A M OR L AT ER ... FOR R E SE RVAT IONS , V I P TA BL E S & PR I VAT E R E D RO OM S

020 7240 5534 COMPLIMENTARY ADMISSION FOR YOU & YOUR GUESTS SHOW YOUR HOTEL KEY OR QUOTE “WHERE LONDON”

W W W. S T R I NGF E L L OW S .C O.U K 16 U PPE R S T. M A RT I N ’S L A N E , L ON D ON WC 2H 9E F

Reverend JW Simpson This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend, proved by the Blue Plaque outside. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.

Scarfes Bar Part of the luxury hotel Rosewood London, this elegant bar is named after Gerald Scarfe, the cartoonist famous for his satirical illustrations. He was commissioned to create cartoons of iconic British figures, which are cast on panels around the room. Enjoy cocktails and Indian-inspired snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. E7. Station: Holborn.

Searcys Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar has a huge selection of bubbly, plus seafood platters. www.searcyschampagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

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NIGHTLIFE Trader Vic’s

The Comedy Store

Stringfellows

This Tiki-style basement bar and restaurant is more than 50 years old. Try the Mai Tai cocktail in an exotic setting. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 0207208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

One of the country’s best and most famous venues for stand-up and improvised comedy. www.the comedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-847 1728. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Over the years, a vast number of celebrities and members of the public have enjoyed a memorable evening of entertainment supplied by over 80 ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables at Peter Stringfellow’s world-famous Gentlemen’s Club and restaurant, which is located very close to Leicester Square in the heart of the capital. Make sure you visit the opulent, velvet-adorned Red Rooms. Entry is free to Stringfellows if you are dining. The restaurant serves classics such as steak sirloin, fish and chips and lobster. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Whisky Bar This specialist bar, at the Athenaeum hotel in Mayfair, has 270 different types of whisky alongside other spirits, cocktails and Champagne. www.athenaeumhotel.com. 116 Piccadilly, W1J 7BJ. T: 020-7640 3333. E6. Station: Green Park.

Whiskey Ginger Close to London Bridge, this relaxing bar has an impressive selection of whiskey and gin-based drinks to enjoy. www.whiskeygingerwg.co.uk. Arch 2, Green Dragon Court, SE1 9AW. T: 0207407 3058. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Ronnie Scott’s The world-famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Prince and Ella Fitzgerald. The venue has a restaurant and bar. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, so it’s perfect for families. There are acts every night, plus Sat and Sun lunch. More intimate gigs Wed. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Zetter Townhouse Tony Conigliaro, known for his amazing blends, brings his mixology magic to this intimate cocktail lounge. www.thezettertownhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4567. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

CASINOS The Casino at the Empire There is a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games at this spectacular venue, housing a contemporary Asian restaurant and several bars. www.thecasinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

PE T E R S T R I NGFE L L OW ’S SOHO GE N T L E M E N’S C LU B

Hippodrome Casino This landmark venue has gaming on three floors, plus the Heliot Steak House. It also hosts live music such as The Late Jazz Jam (every Thur from 11pm). www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy the poker lounge, sports bar, informal dining and elegant restaurant. www.thesportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT 606 Club A relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant, specialising in British-based artists, playing blues, r’n’b and soul. The food is great, too. www.606 club.co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Angels Gentlemen’s Club Soho Six show and cocktail stages plus Red Rooms, VIP booths and the Leopard Room where Peter Stringfellow’s ‘Angels’ dance at your table. The venue includes the Angel Bar and restaurant. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 201 Wardour St, W1F 8ZH. T: 020-7758 0670. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus a DJ at weekends. There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN. T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

DISCR ET ION • QUA L I T Y • SERV ICE OPE N MONDAY TO S AT U R DAY 9.00PM - 4.30A M OR L AT ER ... FOR R E S E RVAT IONS , V I P TA BL E S , T H E L E OPA R D RO OM OR PR I VAT E R E D RO OM S

020 7758 0670 COMPLIMENTARY ADMISSION FOR YOU & YOUR GUESTS SHOW YOUR HOTEL KEY OR QUOTE “WHERE LONDON”

W W W. ST R I NGF E L L OW S.C O.U K 201 WA R D OU R S T R E E T, S OHO, L ON D ON W1F 8Z H

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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from left: The Club on Park Lane; HulaFit Inset: King’s Cross Pond Club

A bigger splash There is something quite exciting about going for a cool, calming swim in a pool that is right in the middle of a big city. Whether it is outdoors, on a rooftop or even an Olympic one, London has a surprising mix. Swimming outdoors in the capital is definitely for the brave, as the temperatures are often very cold. One of the most popular outdoor pools is Hampstead Heath’s Ponds (Highgate Rd, NW5 1QR). Hidden behind trees, there is a men’s, women’s and mixed one. Other pools include King’s Cross Pond Club (Tapper Walk, N1C 4BE; inset) and Serpentine Lido in Hyde Park (Hyde Park, W2 2UH). The Berkeley Health Club & Spa (p. 85), in The Berkeley hotel in Knightsbridge, has always been in fashion. One of its regulars was the late designer Alexander McQueen, and the original Cotswolds branch, Bamford Haybarn Spa, is popular with the likes of Kate Moss. What the pool lacks in size – it is 10m long – it makes up for with a view where you can see The Shard and a rooftop that opens up.

As you perch on one of the poolside loungers, you can sunbathe and enjoy food and drink that includes healthy smoothies and salads. While you are there, enjoy one of the massage treatments or take advantage of the gym. During the summer, HulaFit offers a hula-hoop masterclass in the venue (every Wed; £25). Twirl your hips and wiggle your waist in these 60-minute classes, which provide a cardio workout. You get to keep your hoop, too, so you can continue the exercises at home.

The Club on Park Lane (140 Park Lane, W1K 7AA) in the Marriott London Park Lane boasts one of London’s most luxurious pools. Dimly-lit, blue hues give the impression that this 12.5m-long heated pool is infinite. Recently renovated, it includes steam rooms, a gym and treatment rooms for massages provided by AromaWorks. The pool is available to hotel guests and accessible via membership. Let out your inner Olympian at the London Aquatics Centre (Olympic Park, E20 2ZQ) inside the Olympic Park. It was here that the American swimmer Michael Phelps became the most decorated Olympian, and diver Tom Daley won a bronze medal for Britain. The late Zaha Hadid’s undulating building can fit up to 2,500 spectators and has several pools, including the competition pool that is of heroic proportions – it is 50m long and 3m deep. The more adventurous can also try diving classes, as part of Tom Daley’s Diving Academy, which are available for adults and children. Dive in!

THE CLUB ON PARK LANE COURTESY OF MARRIOTT LONDON PARK LANE; HULA-HOOPING COURTESY OF THE BERKELEY/HULAFIT; KING’S CROSS POND CLUB © JOHN STURROCK

Whether you want to swim in the open air or under cover, London is teeming with swimming pools. Kohinoor Sahota tests the water in invigorating public ponds, luxurious spa pools and ones fit for Olympians

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 88-89

SPAS Aveda Institute Full-service salon offering cuts, colour, blow-drying and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. Beauty and spa treatments available, and a special barber and grooming service for men. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Bamford Haybarn Spa This relaxing day spa has a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanic products including Oskia facials (p. 84). www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Beauty Rooms at Fortnum & Mason Offers waxing, Sisley and Environ facials and nail treatments. Special packages include the Flagging Shopper, a foot and back massage. www.fortnumandmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 020-7973 4094. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa Swim in the 56ft pool, unwind in the sauna, steam room and relaxation suite or get a hair treatment. There is a choice of massages available. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.

Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments, facials and massages for both men and women. Top brands include Nubo and Carita. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Bond Street.

Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 020-7973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

COURTESY OF THE BERKELEY/HULAFIT; KING’S CROSS ROAD CLUB © JOHN STURROCK

Elemis Day Spa Situated in the heart of Mayfair, this spa has been designed to stimulate all the senses, with treatments ranging from anti-ageing facials to hands-on body therapies and detox programmes. www.elemis. com/dayspa. 2-3 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Gentlemen’s Tonic Stylish gentlemen-only grooming establishment with barber shop, body, skin and lifestyle treatments and a full range of products. Also available at St Pancras Renaissance Hotel. www.gentlemens tonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 0207297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Mandarin Oriental

One Aldwych This spa offers more than 50 personalised treatments, ranging from massages to beauty treats from brands such as Natura Bissé. Excellent health club and pool. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery London’s first men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional Hair of the Dog shave to full-blown luxury facials and deep-tissue massage. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Spa at Dolphin Square Morocco-inspired luxury from a team of spa mentors, offering a treatment menu including massage and traditional hammam exfoliation with a Kessa glove and black soap. www.dolphinsquare. co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

AVENA MASSAGE by qualified female masseuse.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Spa Illuminata Enjoy the aromatherapy expertise of Carita, Decléor and Environ in this holistic skin and body-care haven. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Urban Retreat at Harrods Enjoy myriad beauty treatments including massages, paraffin wax treatments and hair care, using top products. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Late appointments available M T as ha sa i ge

Ushvani This plush, highly regarded day spa is an oasis of tranquility in Chelsea. Enjoy massages and facials; couples can use the Asmara Suite, which is filled with Malaysian furnishings and decorative carvings. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

SALONS Geo F Trumper This traditional barber shop in the heart of Mayfair offers wet shaves, toiletries and accessories for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will recreate it in under 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jo Hansford

A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. There is also a menu designed specifically for men and a well-equipped fitness centre. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

This hair colour salon is home to top stylists, and renowned also for its colour correction work. The spa also offers manicure and pedicure treatments as well as massages and reflexology. www.johansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Mandara Spa

Windle & Moodie

Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. Eight treatment rooms plus manicure and pedicure stations. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Award-winning full-service hair salon specialising in catwalk looks for the everyday woman. It uses Bumble & Bumble products. www.windleand moodie.com. 41 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Exhausted, Stressed, Jet-Lagged? Then why not relax with a traditional therapeutic Thai massage? Jade is a licensed and qualified Thai masseuse whose personalised, high-quality treatment is sure to bring your mind and body back into balance. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel or at her Chelsea studio.

Tel: 07894 700669 De-stress, re-energising

MASSAGE New in London

Miss Makedima from Norway is a qualified Norwegian Masseuse specializing in high quality massage with luxurious oils

Open late Please call to book an appointment at your hotel or home. Alternatively, we welcome customers at our Mayfair Studio.

Tel: 07827 301930 www.wheretraveler.com 85

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE

Delivered to you by

TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards

GETTING AROUND

For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call 0343-222 1234. IN A SSO CIAT I O N W I T H

London Underground (The Tube)

ASK THE CONCIERGE Wojciech Urbanczyk, head concierge at the Hilton London Paddington, shares his tips on how to make the most of your trip 1 Remember to use your concierge

4 Don’t forget to stop off at the

Think of your concierge as your best friend. Imagine you are travelling to a city where your best friend is waiting for you and is ready to give you honest advice on where to go, what to do, see and try. We can fulfil even the strangest requests. I once had an elderly lady ask for the whole of the Aldwych Theatre to herself – she had the main performer of Dirty Dancing sing Time of My Life just for her.

Hilton London Paddington The Hilton London Paddington is one of London’s best-connected hotels. We are adjacent to Paddington Station, which gets you to Heathrow Airport in only 15 minutes via Heathrow Express. While you are at the hotel, visit Steam Bar, a contemporary bar set in the 1854 Grade II-listed Victorian building, which marries history with modern design.

2 Take a trip to Shoreditch in east London My favourite area to spend time in has to be Shoreditch – it has diversity, creativity and trendiness in every single aspect of it. I just love the positive vibe, new ideas, pop-up boutiques and restaurants.

3 Try one of London’s modes of transport I am a huge fan of cycling – I’ve cycled to work for the past seven years. I recommend walking and the Tube. When you go on the Tube, you can use your contactless credit card for public transportation.

5 Take part in one of London’s quintessential English experiences I think ladies would enjoy an afternoon tea, and for men there is nothing better than Sunday roast with ale. If it’s your first visit, jump on a tour bus, then go on a boat trip. Talk to your concierge for other things to do during your stay. For the latest Priceless London offers and experiences go to PricelessLondon.co.uk Clockwise from top left: A room at Hilton London Paddington; London Underground; exterior of the hotel; Wojciech Urbanczyk

tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. Subject to delays, night Tube services should soon run all night from 19 Aug Fri-Sat on the Victoria and the Central lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a London bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard, UK-issued contactless payment card or the Where Pass. Visit tfl.gov.uk/buses. Single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map opposite. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight and Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half to 10 mins. Mon-Sat 5.30am-12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras International (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, and southeast England. Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England. For times and tickets, visit nationalrail.co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. Eurostar uses St Pancras International. Go to eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (or if you’re outside the UK, call T: 01233-617 575).

HILTON LONDON PADDINGTON © PELLIER PHOTOGRAPHY; TUBE TRAIN © ISTOCK; HILTON LONDON PADDINGTON EXTERIOR AND WOJCIECH URBANCZYK COURTESY OF HILTON LONDON PADDINGTON

The Where Pass is a contactless payment debit card, which you can use to hop on and off the transport system. See wherepasslondon.com. An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s the cheapest way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £3 fee and pre-load it with credit at visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. Oyster cards offer a discount on Emirates Air Line and most river buses. See visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

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HILTON LONDON PADDINGTON © PELLIER PHOTOGRAPHY; TUBE TRAIN © ISTOCK; HILTON LONDON PADDINGTON EXTERIOR AND WOJCIECH URBANCZYK COURTESY OF HILTON LONDON PADDINGTON

ESSENTIALS

Same day luggage delivery between London’s airports and London locations. Visit portr.com and quote ‘ESSENTIALS’ for 10% discount.

8

9

Chesham

7

Chalfont & Latimer

Watford Junction

Chorleywood Rickmansworth

Northwood Hills

Ruislip

Hillingdon

Ruislip Manor Ickenham

Kenton

Harrowon-the-Hill

Preston Road

Brent Cross Golders Green

South Kenton

South Harrow

Neasden

Wembley Park

North Wembley

South Ruislip Sudbury Hill

Stonebridge Park Harlesden

Kensal Rise

Queen’s Park

Kilburn Park Maida Vale

Perivale

Brondesbury Kilburn High Road Paddington

Latimer Road East Acton

6 5 4 3

North Acton

Acton Central

Shepherd’s Bush Market

South Acton

Goldhawk Road

Ealing Common South Ealing

Acton Town

Northfields Chiswick Park Boston Manor

Hounslow Central

Kew Gardens

Hounslow West

Heathrow Terminal 5

West Kensington

Earl’s Court

South Kensington

Fulham Broadway Parsons Green

District Hammersmith & City Jubilee Metropolitan Northern Piccadilly

Tower Gateway

2

Southwark

Imperial Wharf

Borough Lambeth North

3

East Putney

Kennington

Wandsworth Road

Clapham Junction

Oval

Victoria Waterloo & City DLR Emirates Air Line cable car (Special fares apply) London Overground TfL Rail London Trams District open at weekends and on some public holidays

Stockwell

2

3

Denmark Hill

Clapham South

Step-free access from street to platform

3

National Rail Tooting Bec

Riverboat services Airport

Tooting Broadway

Merton Park

Colliers Wood

Victoria Coach Station

Emirates Air Line cable car

London Overground

4

South Tottenham to Barking No service from early June 2016 until February 2017. Gospel Oak to Barking No weekend service until February 2017. No weekday service from late September 2016 until February 2017.

Morden

Morden Road

Phipps Bridge

Belgrave Walk

Mitcham

Mitcham Junction

Beddington Lane

Therapia Lane

Ampere Way

Waddon Marsh

Royal Victoria

East India

Custom House for ExCeL

Emirates Royal Docks

Prince Regent

North Greenwich

Heron Quays

Royal Albert Beckton Park

Emirates Greenwich Peninsula

Pontoon Dock

Cyprus

London City Airport

Gallions Reach Beckton

King George V

Mudchute Island Gardens

Greenwich

New Cross

Deptford Bridge Elverson Road

Woolwich Arsenal

3

Forest Hill

Norwood Junction

Avenue Road

4

Church Street

Wellesley Road George Street

Beckenham Junction

Harrington Road Elmers End Arena

Special fares apply

Woodside

West Croydon

Wandle Park

Beckenham Road

Birkbeck

Penge West

Centrale

4

Lewisham

Sydenham

5

Reeves Corner

Canning Town

South Quay

Crystal Palace

South Wimbledon

3

Star Lane

Canary Wharf

Anerley

Balham

4

West Ham

West Silvertown

Brockley

Brixton

Upton Park Plaistow

Bromleyby-Bow

Blackwall

5

East Ham

Abbey Road

Poplar

Honor Oak Park

Clapham Common

Dundonald Road

Step-free access from street to train

Becontree Upney

Crossharbour

Peckham Rye

Clapham North

Interchange stations

Pudding Mill Lane

2/3

All Saints

Surrey Quays

6

Dagenham East

Barking

West India Quay

New Cross Gate

Elephant & Castle

Wimbledon Park

Stratford

Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich

Queens Road Peckham

Vauxhall

Southfields

Elm Park

Woodgrange Park

Forest Gate

Stratford High Street

Bow Church

Westferry

Canada Water

Bermondsey

Upminster Bridge Hornchurch

Maryland

Bow Road

Langdon Park

Wapping

Rotherhithe London Bridge

2

Devons Road

River Thames

Embankment

1

Pimlico

2

Upminster

Seven Kings Ilford

Manor Park

Wanstead Park

Hackney Wick

Mile End

Stepney Green

Shadwell

Tower Hill

Fenchurch Street

Blackfriars

Waterloo

2

Cambridge Heath

Limehouse

Temple

Clapham High Street

Circle

Monument

Aldgate

West Brompton

Wimbledon

Central

Bank St. Paul’s

Goodmayes

Gants Hill

Leytonstone

Emerson Park

Chadwell Heath

Newbury Park

Redbridge

Dagenham Heathway

Bethnal Green

Whitechapel

Romford

Barkingside

Wanstead

Leytonstone High Road

Gidea Park

Hainault Fairlop

Snaresbrook

Leyton

Putney Bridge

Heathrow Terminal 4

Bakerloo

1

Chancery Lane

Cannon Street

Aldgate East

Liverpool Street

Brentwood

Harold Wood

South Woodford

Stratford International

Homerton

Shoreditch High Street

Mansion House

Charing Cross St. James’s Park Westminster

Clapton

Bethnal Green

Barbican

Piccadilly Circus

Sloane Square

Hoxton

Farringdon

Holborn

Leyton Midland Road

Hackney Central

Canonbury

Old Street

Covent Garden

Victoria

Rectory Road

4 3

Walthamstow Central

St. James Street

London Fields

Leicester Square

Knightsbridge Gloucester Road

Dalston Kingsland

Haggerston

Moorgate Tottenham Court Road

High Street Kensington

Blackhorse Road

Dalston Junction

Russell Square Goodge Street

Green Park

Tottenham Hale

Hackney Downs

Caledonian Road & Barnsbury

Angel

Oxford Circus

Lancaster Gate

Highbury & Islington

Wood Street

Stamford Hill Walthamstow Queen’s Road Stoke Newington

Finsbury Park

King’s Cross St. Pancras

Euston Square

Regent’s Park

Bond Street

Hyde Park Corner

Kensington (Olympia)

Richmond

Hatton Cross

Queensway

Barons Court

Turnham Stamford Ravenscourt Brook Park Green Gunnersbury

Osterley

Notting Hill Gate

Holland Park

Mornington Crescent

Warren Street

Marble Arch

Shepherd’s Bush

Hammersmith

Hounslow East

Heathrow Terminals 2 & 3

White City

Wood Lane

Camden Road

Camden Town

Baker Great Portland Euston Street Street

1

Bayswater

Ladbroke Grove

Arsenal

Kentish Town

Chalk Farm

St. John’s Wood

Edgware Road

Westbourne Park Park Royal

North Ealing

2

Swiss Cottage

Marylebone

Edgware Road

Royal Oak

West Acton

Upper Holloway

Grange Hill

Shenfield

Chigwell Woodford

Bruce Grove South Tottenham

Seven Sisters

Holloway Road

Caledonian Road

Finchley Road

South Hampstead

Harringay Green Lanes

Manor House

Tufnell Park Kentish Town West

Roding Valley Highams Park

White Hart Lane

Wood Green

6

5

Buckhurst Hill

Edmonton Green

Turnpike Lane

Archway

Belsize Park

West Hampstead

Warwick Avenue

Hanger Lane

Ealing Broadway

Finchley Road & Frognal

Kilburn Brondesbury Park

Kensal Green Alperton Greenford

Highgate

Loughton Chingford

Silver Street

Crouch Hill

Gospel Oak

Hampstead Heath

Hampstead

Willesden Green

Willesden Junction

Sudbury Town

Finchley Central East Finchley

Dollis Hill

Wembley Central

Northolt

Hendon Central

Kingsbury

Southgate Arnos Grove

West Finchley

Bounds Green

3

Colindale

Queensbury

Northwick Park

West Harrow

Mill Hill East

Burnt Oak

Canons Park

North Harrow

Rayners Lane

Ruislip Gardens

Stanmore

Harrow & Wealdstone

Pinner

Eastcote

Edgware

Headstone Lane

Turkey Street Southbury

Special fares apply

9

Epping Theydon Bois Debden

Oakwood

Woodside Park

4

Hatch End

Northwood

Theobalds Grove

Bush Hill Park

Cockfosters

Totteridge & Whetstone

Carpenders Park Moor Park

8 7

Cheshunt Enfield Town

High Barnet Bushey

Croxley

West Ruislip

Uxbridge

5

Watford High Street

Watford

Amersham

8 7 6

Special fares apply

Blackhorse Lane Addiscombe

Lebanon Road East Croydon

Sandilands

Lloyd Park Coombe Lane

Gravel Hill

Addington Village

Fieldway

King Henry’s Drive

New Addington

Services for these stations are subject to variation. Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details.

*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.

Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel

Taxis

Coaches

You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. For more information, visit tfl.gov.uk.

London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. Victoria. Map D4. tfl.gov.uk/coaches

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. enterprise.co.uk.

Congestion Charge There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. cclondon.com.

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. tfl.gov.uk/legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 10,000 bicycles for hire from 700 docking stations throughout central London. For details, visit tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 034-3222 6666.

Version J1 TfL 06.2016

Correct at time of going to print

River services tfl.gov.uk/river. MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 20 main piers. Discounts on adult single fare with an Oyster, Visitor Oyster or contactless card. River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.

Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCel London). tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Accessible London Deaf and disabled travellers should visit DisabledGo at visitlondon.com/access and openbritain.net.

AirPortr (Luggage delivery service) PASS PARTNER Same-day luggage transfer between London’s airports and hotels – travel bag-free and make the most of your time here. Prices start at £15 for one bag plus £10 for each additional item (any size or weight). T: 020-3384 6677. portr.com.

Where Pass

The city of London is a magnificent place, bursting with things to see and do. The all-new Where Pass makes experiencing London convenient and hassle-free for travellers. Incorporating the latest in contactless debit card technology, users of the Where Pass are able to travel around using the public transport system, enjoy shopping and dining throughout the city, and gain discounted access into top attractions. Immerse yourself in everything London has to offer with the Where Pass – visit www.wherepasslondon.com for details. www.wheretraveler.com 87

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WHERE NOW | JADE EWEN

My London

JADE EWEN

When would you wake up? Around 10am at the latest. I usually wake up a lot earlier. It would be nice to lie in, but I don’t want to waste the day. What would be your perfect breakfast? I quite like bagels, salmon and scrambled eggs. What are your favourite buildings? I like classic buildings – they are awe-inspiring and detailed. I find history really interesting. St Paul’s Cathedral is incredible, and I love the Royal Albert Hall, too. What museums and galleries do you love? I loved the Natural History Museum as a child as there’s so much to see there. Is there a place in London that holds a special memory for you? At the moment it is The National Gallery – we had the press party for Aladdin there. It was so grand! It was the highlight of my career, and inspires me to keep going. Where do you like shopping? I love Borough Market. I love the hustle and bustle, the food and trying things. I enjoy Shoreditch for shopping – I get hand-crafted pieces of jewellery there, which you wouldn’t normally find in traditional stores. What has been a memorable purchase? A turquoise and silver pendant from Shoreditch. It is an ornate piece.

What green spaces do you like? I have a lot of fond memories of Regent’s Park. I did Porgy and Bess there last year at the Open Air Theatre. I got to perform in that setting, and had picnics near the lovely lake – it’s beautiful.

Where do you like to eat out? I love to eat! The other day I went to Zuma in Knightsbridge for sushi. It was delicious; everything I ordered was good. I also like Wolfgang Puck at Cut at 45 Park Lane Hotel, as they do good steaks and sweet potato fries.

What places in the city inspire you? I spent my childhood in Plaistow, east London, and I have recently been revisiting this area, which I haven’t been to for years. When I see those places, like my primary school and dance school, I never dreamed I’d be doing what I’m doing now.

You are currently starring in Aladdin. Tell us about the show. It is the biggest production to ever come to the West End. We hold the world record for the most amount of costume changes, too – 108 in two minutes. We also have eight million crystals in the show!

How do you prefer to travel in the city? I’ve always loved the Tube. I struggle sitting in a car when there is traffic, and buses give me motion sickness. I know the Tube like the back of my hand. I’m quite good at all the lines and how to get around fast.

What makes London stand out from the rest of the world? I’m proud that I’m from London. There’s just so much to do all the time, so I’m never bored. I’ve been fortunate to travel quite a lot with my work, but I always come back to London. People say they want to live abroad, but the capital will always be my number one as I don’t think anywhere else in the world beats it.

Would you do anything extravagant? I would go to the Four Seasons’ day spa on Park Lane and treat myself to a massage. Where would you have a drink? I’m not a massive drinker, so I would choose a bar where I can socialise with friends. Bar Italia is great. What would be your ideal entertainment? Anywhere with live music. Ronnie Scott’s is amazing.

Where would you spend the night? I love the Corinthia Hotel. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk Clockwise from top left: Regent’s Park; Jade Ewen; Bar Italia; Borough Market; St Paul’s Cathedral; Aladdin

REGENT’S PARK © ISTOCK/CHRIS DORNEY; JADE EWEN © JOHAN PERSSON; BAR ITALIA, BOROUGH MARKET AND ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL © ISTOCK; ALADDIN © DISNEY

ACTRESS AND SINGER Jade Ewen is starring as Jasmine in the stage version of Aladdin. She started her career by taking the role of young Nala in The Lion King. In 2009, she represented the UK in the Eurovision Song Contest, and went on to join the pop group, Sugababes

90 W H E R E LO N D O N I AU G U S T 2016

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