Where London December 2016

London

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

52 GIFT IDEAS For him, her, kids and pets FESTIVE FEASTS From mince pies to mulled wine

Presents, board games and the Queen’s speech!

How you can celebrate British traditions every day

PLUS OUR SHOPPING SURVIVAL GUIDE

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ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

DINING

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Contents See more of London at wheretraveler.com/london

London

DECEMBER 2 0 16

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ON THE COVER RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

52 GIFT IDEAS For him, her, kids and pets FESTIVE FEASTS From mince pies to mulled wine

Presents, board games and the Queen’s speech!

How you can celebrate British traditions every day

December

PLUS OUR SHOPPING SURVIVAL GUIDE

CULTURE

ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

DINING

MAPS

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16/11/2016 10:59

London advent calendar designed by Grant Pearce. Christmas and London illustrations © iStock; St Paul’s Cathedral and carol service © Graham Lacdao/St Paul’s Cathedral; Man with gifts © iStock; The Red Shoes courtesy of Sadler’s Wells; Winter Wonderland © PWR Events

The Guide

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40 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Find out how Christmas has been celebrated over the centuries in The Geffrye Museum’s evocative exhibition, Christmas Past.

46 ENTERTAINMENT The Nutcracker, candlelit carols and Disney on Ice presents Frozen – find the Christmas show you’ll love.

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Best of the month 14 SURVIVE CHRISTMAS SHOPPING

6 WHERE NOW This month’s big events, including New Year’s Eve fireworks, Madness rocking The O2 arena and a quirky Christmas Day tradition in Hyde Park’s Serpentine lake.

Tax refunds, accessibility, personal shopping and delivery – we show you how to shop at the last minute.

10 CHRISTMAS EVERY DAY

From jewellery to hampers, take your pick of presents for him, her, children and pets.

A guide on how to celebrate Christmas the British way! From the Queen’s speech to board games, we reveal how you can enjoy traditions on any given day this month.

18 CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

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82 MY LONDON Comedian Jason Byrne’s London hotspots.

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30 SIGHTSEEING Go for a spin on one of the city’s pop-up ice rinks at iconic venues including the Natural History Museum, the Tower of London and Somerset House.

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Download past and present issues from across the Where Network via Magzter’s app. Go to the app store.

THE WHERE PASS The all-new Where Pass makes experiencing London hassle-free. Incorporating the latest in contactless debit card technology, users of the Where Pass are able to travel around using the public transport system and gain discounted entry into top attractions. www.wherepasslondon.com

56 SHOPPING For special gifts, visit one of London’s many Christmas markets taking place in landmark locations such as the South Bank, Leicester Square and Hyde Park.

62 DINING A guide to festive feasts with traditional turkey and Christmas pudding. Plus, find out where you can have dinner on Christmas Day itself.

72 NIGHTLIFE Mulled wine, whisky cocktails and chai nog – warm yourself up with a hot toddy.

76 SPAS & SALONS It’s time to put your best face forward! Get the party started with beauty treatments, from big blow dries to magical make-up.

78 ESSENTIALS Conor McDowell, head concierge at Amba Hotel Charing Cross, shares his London tips.

80 MAPS A useful map of central London. w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 3

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WELCOME

Editor’s Letter

Season’s greetings Few issues are planned so far in advance, but initial ideas for our Christmas issue began almost six months ago. Determined to bring you the best that London has to offer, we wanted to make this festive issue special.

For us Brits, Christmas means the Queen’s speech, board games and family films.

Discover how you can take part in our traditions, on any day in December, in our feature Christmas Every Day (p. 10).

No trip is complete without shopping – How to Survive Christmas Shopping is perfect for tourists, as it looks at everything from tax refunds to delivery (p. 14). And with our Gift Guide including presents for him, her, children – even pets – you’ll find there is something for everyone (p. 18)!

We have packed this issue with as much festivity as we could – ice rinks (p. 30), carols (p. 46), markets (p. 56) and hot cocktails (p. 72).

If you are in London on Christmas Day, read Festive Feasts (p. 60). You can choose from menus that include favourites such as smoked salmon and turkey, as well as ones that give traditional dishes a French or Indian twist.

On another note, I was recently nominated for Young Journalist of the Year at the GG2 Leadership Awards. I was honoured to meet guests, from actors to politicians, and be recognised for my work on Where London. It was a great way to end the year.

Have a very merry Christmas!

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: Where London

IMAGE © JAMES SAHOTA

Kohinoor with actor Kabir Bedi at the GG2 Leadership Awards

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NOW London is full of festive fun this month, from the Christmas Day swim in the Serpentine to the spectacular New Year’s Eve fireworks

NEW YEAR’S EVE FIREWORKS SATURDAY 31 DECEMBER

Welcome in 2017 with a bang and watch the Mayor of London’s New Year’s Eve fireworks display on the River Thames. As you join the crowds of people counting down from 10 and watch the hands of Big Ben creep to midnight, you will get a front-row seat to the capital’s sights, from the London Eye to the Houses of Parliament. Booking is essential – tickets include DJ entertainment, access to viewing areas and a 10-minute fireworks display. www.london.gov.uk

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SCIENCE MUSEUM FROM THURSDAY 8 DECEMBER

Think maths is boring? Think again! Designed by world-renowned Zaha Hadid Architects, the new Winton Gallery at the Science Museum brings mathematics to life, with fascinating stories of the mathematicians who shaped the modern world with their tools and ideas.

Explore the fascinating history of human ingenuity, from the Renaissance to the present day, while getting up close to historical instruments, including an experimental aircraft from 1929. Children will be blown away by the amazing displays. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk

MARY STUART FROM FRIDAY 2 DECEMBER

Mary Stuart at the Almeida Theatre follows the last days of Mary, Queen of Scots. She is imprisoned in England, ostensibly for the murder of her husband, although the real reason is because she claims the throne of England held by her cousin Queen Elizabeth I. Will Elizabeth sign Mary’s death sentence? Juliet Stevenson and Lia Williams take turns playing the key roles for each performance, decided by the toss of a coin. www.almeida.co.uk

PETER PAN CUP SUNDAY 25 DECEMBER

Sometimes Londoners can seem like quite a serious bunch, but when you watch an event such as the Peter Pan Cup, you may think differently. Every Christmas morning since 1864, swimmers dive into the Serpentine lake in Hyde Park, which is usually well below 4 Celsius. Novelist JM Barrie, who wrote the play Peter Pan, donated the first Peter Pan Cup in 1904. www.serpentineswimmingclub.com

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MADNESS AT THE O2 SATURDAY 10 DECEMBER

Watch as the ska band Madness, from Camden Town, turn The O2 arena into a House of Fun. While the band members are now in their fifties, they still have lots of energy. When they took part in the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee concert, they performed Our House on top of Buckingham Palace while a light projection show made the building look like a terraced street. This tour promotes their latest album Can’t Touch Us Now, and you’ll be able to hear them singing new songs and old favourites. www.theo2.co.uk

CHANUKAH IN THE SQUARE SATURDAY 24 DECEMBER-SUNDAY 1 JANUARY

Join London’s Jewish community to celebrate Chanukah in the Square, a free event in Trafalgar Square. A giant menorah – a candelabrum with nine branches – can be found on the north terrace of the square. www.london.gov.uk

SANTA RUN IN BATTERSEA PARK SATURDAY 3 DECEMBER

On Christmas Eve, kids stay up hoping to catch a glimpse of Santa Claus, but at the Santa Run in Battersea Park, they are definitely in luck as hundreds of Father (and Mother) Christmases race along the park in order to raise money for charity. If you fancy tackling the 6km run, costumes are given for free and you can walk, jog or run as fast as you like. With mulled wine and Christmas cake on offer, this is a fun festive day out. www.londonsantarun.co.uk 8 W H E R E LO N D O N I D E C E M B E R 2016

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HOT DATES

DECEMBER CS

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

Robert Rauschenberg’s Pop Art pictures are on show today at Tate Modern (p. 45)

Mary Stuart, starring Juliet Stevenson and Lia Williams, begins today (p. 7) On your marks, get set, go! Watch the Santa Run in Battersea Park See Santa Claus this weekend at the WWT Wetland Centre California’s finest, the Red Hot Chili Peppers, arrive at The O2 arena (p. 54)

The Red Shoes, a new show from Matthew Bourne, opens at Sadler’s Wells (p. 50) Australia’s Impressionists starts today at The National Gallery (p. 43) Love musicals? Rent – The Musical opens tonight at St James Theatre (p. 48) Have A Kylie Christmas ! The Aussie singer performs at the Royal Albert Hall (p. 54) Take the kids along to A Family Christmas at Handel and Hendrix in London (p. 33) See rock band Status Quo’s The Last Night of the Electrics tour at The O2 arena (p. 54) The legendary Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club hosts the Motown Christmas Revue (p. 54) See Dulwich Picture Gallery light up with Dulwich Winterlights Ministry of Sound celebrates its 25th birthday at Somerset House ice rink (p. 42) Rock band Placebo celebrate their 20-year anniversary at the SSE Arena, Wembley Dance the night away on board the Cutty Sark’s Silent Disco (p. 32) Watch the rock ‘n’ roll musical Million Dollar Quartet at the Royal Festival Hall Hear the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra tonight at Cadogan Hall (p. 53) Listen to Pokémon music at a concert at the Eventim Apollo Hammersmith

Love’s Labour’s Lost is on this afternoon at the Theatre Royal Haymarket Khaled Hosseini’s The Kite Runner is turned into a play at Wyndham’s Theatre Ascend Western Europe’s tallest building, The View from The Shard (p. 35) Watch La Soirée in the Spiegeltent at Christmas in Leicester Square (p. 52) If you’re doing last-minute shopping, read our Shopping Survival Guide (p. 14) Merry Christmas! Watch the Peter Pan Cup swimming race (p. 7) This Boxing Day, look out for the sales across London’s shops Welsh singer Katherine Jenkins performs at the Barbican Hall Watch the classic film E.T. with a live orchestra at the Royal Albert Hall (p. 54) The RSC’s Much Ado About Nothing is on at the Theatre Royal Haymarket It’s your last chance to see Disney on Ice presents Frozen at The O2 (p. 46) Watch the New Year’s Eve fireworks on the South Bank (p. 6)

PREVIOUS PAGES: TOWER BRIDGE © ISTOCK; SCIENCE MUSEUM © ZAHA HADID ARCHITECTS; MARY STUART © MILES ALDRIDGE; PETER PAN CUP COURTESY OF SERPENTINE SWIMMING CLUB. THIS PAGE: MADNESS © PEROU; CHANUKAH © ISTOCK; SANTA RUN COURTESY OF SANTA RUN

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

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If, like rock band Wizzard, you ‘wish it could be Christmas every day’, then you’re in luck!

Sam Rogg explains how you can celebrate a British Christmas on any day in December…

Depending on how old (and hungover) you are, a typical British Christmas begins bright and early with a glass of Champagne.

In fact, they say that the average British family has their first alcoholic drink at 9.05am.

Rise and shine!

Situated in the grand surroundings of St Pancras International station, Searcys Champagne Bar opens from 7am (Mon-Sat) and 8am (Sun), should you fancy some fizz with your sunrise. Hailed as Europe’s longest Champagne bar, this modern drinking spot boasts stylish banquettes fitted with ‘press for Champagne’ buttons. Seats are heated, but if you’re still chilly, you can snuggle

up under a blanket while you sip your glass of bubbly.

For millions of people across the country, Christmas Day kicks off with a church service, not surprisingly given that the holiday is also Jesus Christ’s birthday. Every morning, the spectacular St Paul’s Cathedral opens its doors for morning prayer (usually from 7.30am). Services here are often sung by the Cathedral Choir or visiting choirs from around the world.

Even secular visitors will enjoy marvelling at this 1,400-year-old site, which has been built and rebuilt five times over the centuries.

Look out for many Christmas concerts that take place this month, including the

ever-popular Ceremony of Carols by Benjamin Britten at the iconic Royal Albert Hall.

Somehow a bowl of cereal just doesn’t cut it for breakfast on Christmas Day. Brits like to indulge in something special, whether that’s lobster or a ‘full English’ with all the trimmings.

Big enough to satisfy Santa himself, Hawksmoor Guildhall’s mammoth ‘breakfast for two’ is a full-on feast of smoked bacon chop, beef and mutton sausages, short-rib bubble and squeak, grilled bone marrow, trotter baked beans (beans with pulled pork), eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes, unlimited toast and HP gravy. Too meaty?

The lobster Benedict at this City favourite will leave you feeling just as special.

Top to bottom: St Paul’s Cathedral; Champagne

ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL CHORISTERS © GRAHAM LACDAO/ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL; CHAMPAGNE, ILLUSTRATIONS AND CALLIGRAPHY © ISTOCK

WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS GUIDE

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What would Christmas be without gifts?

A lot less expensive perhaps, but where’s the fun in that? In Britain, if you’ve been good, you might get that DVD box set that you’ve been dropping hints about for months. Even bad girls and boys can expect a pair of questionable novelty socks lurking under the Christmas tree.

It’s a busy time of year for Santa and his many elves, but somehow he manages to make an appearance at grottos up and down the city. Grottos = gifts! Catch old St Nick inside Christmas in Leicester Square, Kew Gardens, London Zoo and the Rainforest Cafe, to name a few. Kids can have their photo taken with the main man before receiving a surprise present.

At 3pm on Christmas Day, families gather around TV sets to watch the Queen deliver her annual Christmas message – a tradition started in 1932 with a speech written by Rudyard Kipling for King George V. It might not be the most exciting thing on TV that day, but Her Majesty is not one to be interviewed, so British people relish this annual glimpse into her character.

Get your royal fix outside Buckingham Palace where the Changing the Guard ceremony takes place on odd dates this month (ie. 1, 3, 5 Dec, subject to change).

Rumour has it that the royal family likes to gather on Christmas Eve in Sandringham, Norfolk, for afternoon tea – apparently the royals love gag gifts. Enjoy an afternoon tea fit for a queen at The Ritz hotel and pick up some majestic stocking-fillers at nearby Royal Warrant Holder Fortnum & Mason.

We may aim for Christmas lunch, but with must-have components such as stuffed roast turkey, Brussels sprouts, roast potatoes, spiced red cabbage, honeymustard parsnips, bread sauce and

Clockwise from top left: lunch at HIX Mayfair; Santa’s grotto at London Zoo; Kew Gardens; snakes and ladders game at the V&A Museum of Childhood; Film & Fizz at One Aldwych

Christmas pudding – all made from scratch – it inevitably becomes Christmas dinner!

And don’t forget the crackers.

Let HIX Mayfair do all the hard work while you sit back and enjoy an elegant twist on festive favourites. Highlights include turkey and stuffing croquettes with cranberry sauce, roast breast of Ripley Estate pheasant with chestnut dumpling and Christmas pudding with rum sauce (available throughout Dec). Wash it down with a glass of eggnog or mulled cider, surrounded by original artworks from the likes of Rankin and Tracey Emin.

Nothing brings friends and families together (then rips them apart) like board games on Christmas Day. Wise Brits will arm themselves with mince pies and mulled wine to survive the spousal spats and sibling rivalry that goes on.

Cluedo, Chess, Monopoly, Frustration, Trivial Pursuit, Scrabble – all the classics await you at the exhibition Game Plan:

Board Games Rediscovered at the V&A Museum of Childhood. Get stuck in with hands-on interactives while discovering historical board games such as The Game of the Goose, which some say dates back to 16th-century London.

By nightfall, most of us have eaten and drunk so much that there’s very little we can do except collapse on to a chair (or pillowshaped loved one) and settle in for a night of festive film watching.

Put down the remote control and head to One Aldwych for Film & Fizz with Curzon. Running most Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays this month, these evenings give you the chance to watch a Christmas classic in the Covent Garden hotel’s private 30-seat screening room with a glass of Champagne followed by a threecourse meal at Indigo restaurant. Choose from family favourites that include Miracle on 34th Street (4-6 Dec), White Christmas (11-13 Dec) and It’s a Wonderful Life (17-22 Dec).

HIX MAYFAIR © JON SURBEY; SANTA’S GROTTO AT LONDON ZOO © DAVID JENSEN; KEW GARDENS © ANDREW MCROBB; SNAKES AND LADDERS © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; FILM & FIZZ AT ONE ALDWYCH © NICK ROCHOWSKI

WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS GUIDE

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WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS GUIDE

Who needs wise men? Kohinoor Sahota shows you how to get everything ticked off your Christmas shopping list – from tax refunds to gift wrapping – with time to spare!

PERSONAL SHOPPERS Christmas is back, and this time it’s personal.

In Selfridges, the complimentary 1 Elfridges helpers (complete with Santa hats) have an encyclopedic knowledge of every item in

the store and can offer ideas for gifts, big or small. Harrods’ By Appointment service is one of the largest in the world, and in Fenwick the service gives you privacy and you have no obligation to buy. Concierge services are available in Westfield and 2 Fortnum & Mason: at Westfield they can find the perfect gift or help you keep the kids busy, while Fortnum & Mason’s recently launched service is available by phone.

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MONEY While the pound is currently weak, tourists can benefit by getting more bang for their buck. Most department stores offer tax back and have currency exchange services, so you don’t have to worry about not spending enough and being called a scrooge. Global Blue and Premier Tax Free serve many department stores: Selfridges has a dedicated tax-refund lounge that includes a VIP area, while in Westfield the Ice Bureau will give you a tax refund immediately and Travelex desks at each centre will help you with tax forms before you get to the airport.

LANGUAGES To make sure the staff can speak your language – literally – when it comes to gifts, some shops have foreign-language speakers. Selfridges has a wide range of interpreters, from Chinese and Russian to Swahili, Hausa and Farsi. If you need a specific language, ring the information desk in advance.

SHOPPERS AND GRAPHICS © ISTOCK; SELFRIDGES © MATT WRITTLE

t’s Christmas Eve: the streets are sparkling with decorations, choirs are singing carols and families are gathered together. You, however, still have your shopping list to complete.

According to a survey, this is a problem that faces nearly half of British adults who leave their festive shopping to 24 December.

While it’s meant to be the most wonderful time of year, there’s no denying that Christmas shopping can be stressful. What if the size is wrong? Have I spent enough money?

Will they even like it? Department stores and malls are a gift for shoppers, but as we found out, not all shops are created equally.

So, forget about Santa’s little helpers and use our guide to make Christmas shopping a merry rather than a miserable time.

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WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS GUIDE

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DELIVERY

a manual wheelchair or motorised scooter from Shopmobility, and there are Blue After lugging your suitcases to and from the airport, the last thing you’ll want to do is Badge parking bays too. If you’re having carry more items. Regent Street has become trouble carrying your purchases, Selfridges offers a complimentary Carry to Car the first hands-free shopping street in the service and can help you to hail a taxi. country, thanks to Dropit – a service that enables you to drop off your purchases FOOD AND DRINK and have them delivered to your hotel If Christmas shopping seems or home. Dropit points include like an expedition, then you 84, 132 and 245 Regent Street, need a break to replenish. as well as shops. Download Ditch a sneaky sandwich in Trafalgar Square’s the app, so you can track your exchange for a festive feast.

Christmas tree is bags. If you are transferring 5 Fortnum & Mason excels: a gift from Norway. larger items, 3 AirPortr is The Diamond Jubilee Tea The tradition began faster than Santa Claus on Salon, which was opened by in1947 to acknowledge Christmas Eve – it delivers to Britain’s support in the Queen and the Duchess and from Heathrow, Gatwick World War II of Cambridge, lets you and City airports, and from any 7 indulge in an afternoon desired destination to another, tea with finger sandwiches, in a matter of hours. scones and patisseries, and

ACCESSIBILITY Most of London’s department stores have accessible entrances, lifts, changing rooms and toilets, but they vary in distance to the most accessible Underground station.

From the accessible Green Park Tube station, Harrods is an 11-minute bus ride away, while Fortnum & Mason is a fiveminute walk away. At 4 Westfield London and Westfield Stratford City, you can hire 5

its other eateries include the glamorous 45 Jermyn Street, ice-cream shop The Parlour and The Wine Bar. For comfort food, John Lewis has meat lovers’ favourite Ham Holy Burger and pizzas at Rossopomodoro. If you want to toast your shopping success, go to Harrods’ oyster, seafood or Champagne bars.

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SPAS Selfridges specialises in speedy treatments: Daniel Hersheson creates catwalk-inspired blow dries in less than 30 minutes, while Cowshed has an Express menu, which includes an Express LED Facial that takes just 15 minutes. Men can book an appointment at 6 Liberty’s Murdock London – the traditional barbershop offers services including wet shaves, beard trims and a shoeshine. If you have time to spare, relax at Fenwick’s Pure Massage, where treatments are tailored to suit your needs, or visit Harrods for its female-only spa and salon.

GIFT WRAPPING Not all of us can be wrap stars – get your loved one’s name written all over their wrapping paper at House of Fraser, which offers personalised wrapping paper. Selfridges’ personalised wrapping service comes courtesy of Abigail Warner – look out for the 7 custom stockings that can have names printed on them. Harrods’ wrapping service not only lets you choose the paper and ribbons, which come in every colour of the rainbow, but it also adds an extra gift, from wooden toys to bouquets, to each parcel.

FORTNUM & MASON © MATT CROSSICK; WESTFIELD © ISTOCK; AIRPORTR © MIKAEL BUCK; STOCKING COURTESY OF SELFRIDGES; MURDOCK AT LIBERTY © TOBY LEWIS THOMAS; AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF FORTNUM & MASON

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KIDS GO FREE 17-24 DECEMBER. B O O K N O W AT T H E V I E W F R O M T H E S H A R D. C O M

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WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS GUIDE

COVER UP Exclusively available at Liberty Liberty London Passport Holder, £75, Liberty, Regent St, W1B 5AH

FROM LONDON

SWEET TOOTH Fortnum & Mason was founded in 1707 Champagne and Chocolate Christmas Box, £65, Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER

- FOR HER -

LET IT SHINE 18ct Gold with Diamonds Blu BY KIM and Blu Crown BY KIM Necklaces and Earrings, POA, Wempe, 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA

PRETTY IN PINK Smythson was established in 1887 Panama Jewellery Box with Travel Tray, £1,195, Smythson, 40 New Bond St, W1S 2DE

TIME OUT One of Links of London’s bestsellers Driver Mini Gold Bracelet Watch, £350, Links of London, 94 Jermyn St, SW1Y 6JE

THE SOUND OF MUSIC Customisation includes engraving your initials and changing the caps FRENDS Layla Rose Gold on Ear Headphones, £139.99, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

PICTURE THIS Put your favourite picture on a bag Be a Bag Box Washbag, £175, Anya Hindmarch, 157-158 Sloane St, SW1X 9AB

Top Pick

CASE STUDY This British brand was established in 1884 Vintage Brooch Jewellery Box, £35, Marks & Spencer, 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP

HAPPY HAMPERS Visit Roald Dahl’s favourite chocolatier Chocoholic Hamper, £100, Prestat, 14 Princes Arcade, St James’s, SW1Y 6DS

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN IN HAT © ISTOCK

SENSE OF SMELL Crabtree & Evelyn is more than 40 years old Florentine Freesia Flower Water, £45, Crabtree & Evelyn, New Bond St, W1S 2SA

From exclusive to limitededition treats, these gifts show her she’s special

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Lose yourself in the Crown Jewels The treasures that united the kingdom

Book online now to save Nearest tube Tower Hill

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Royal Collection Trust © 2016, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

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WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS GUIDE

LISTEN UP! Enjoy eight hours of freedom with these wireless headphones Sudio Vasa Wireless In-ear Headphones, £69.99, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

FROM LONDON GAME ON Remember your trip with this game that has a Union Jack design on the outside Wooden Backgammon Set, £475, Aspinal of London, 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB

These gifts, many of which you can only find in London, tell him you care

- FOR HIM -

THE LOOKING GLASS See the stars through this beautiful telescope Telescope with Stand, £39.50, Marks & Spencer, 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP

A CLOSE SHAVE Murdock offers wet shaves and styling products Wodehouse Double Edge Safety Razor Set, £175, 18 Monmouth St, WC2H 9HB

BY ROYAL APPOINTMENT Fortnum & Mason supplies groceries and tea to the Royal Household Gentlemen’s Hamper, £165, Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER

TIME ON YOUR HANDS 18ct gold watch with a crocodile-skin strap Automatic Wempe Glashütte i/SA, POA, Wempe, 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA

TIE THE KNOT Liberty is famous for its graphic prints Heads and Tails Lion-print Tana Tie, £65, Liberty, Regent St, W1B 5AH

DRINK UP This hip flask comes in Amazon crocodile calf leather Aspinal of London Double Hip Flask, £85, House of Fraser, 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF

MAKE A SPLASH This umbrella is exclusive to Royal Museums Greenwich Constellations Umbrella, £20, Royal Museums Greenwich, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; MAN © ISTOCK

Top Pick

SPIRITED AWAY Four 20cl bottles of whisky Johnnie Walker Whisky, £100, John Lewis, Oxford St, W1C 1DX

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Linking London’s Attractions MBNA Thames Clippers are the fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, serving 21 piers across London, meaning you can see more of what London has to offer.

o h in t Touc ou go sy pay a

Tower

Blackfriars

Canary Wharf

Embankment

Bankside

Westminster

Chelsea Harbour Cadogan

Putney Wandsworth Plantation Riverside Wharf

London Bridge City

London Eye (Waterloo)

Millbank

Emirates Air Line

The O2

Doubletree Docklands

Greenland (Surrey Quays)

Masthouse Terrace

North Greenwich

Woolwich (Royal Arsenal)

Greenwich

St George Wharf (Vauxhall)

Route map key RB1 – Stopping service RB1X – Express service thamesclippers.com RB1/RB5 – Limited service RB2 – Tate to Tate service 0319_TC_WHERE_London_AD_206x276.indd 1 WL THAMES CLIPPERS.indd 1

RB4 – Doubletree Docklands ferry RB6 – Monday to Friday only @thamesclippers /thamesclippers Emirates Air Line

Underground

All our boats are wheelchair accessible

/thamesclippers Overground

All our piers are wheelchair accessible except for London Bridge, Wandsworth Riverside Quarter and Cadogan Piers

Docklands Light Railway National Rail Santander Cycle Hire

Mobility scooter users must join our Mobility Scooter Recognition Scheme in advance of travel 28/09/2016 14/11/2016 20:41 11:01

WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS GUIDE

FROM LONDON

BUILDING SIGHTS Create a mini version of the iconic clock Big Ben, £169.99, Lego Store, 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP

From novelty to luxury gifts, children will love these special presents BRINGING UP BABY A seven-piece gift set for a newborn One Two Kids Sophie the Giraffe Baby Arrival Set, £74.95, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

- KIDS -

WATCH THIS SPACE A smartwatch for children VTech KidiZoom Smart Watch in DX Green, £43, Debenhams, 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG

CHECK THIS OUT This Royal Warrant Holder opened in 1856 Star-print House Check Rain Boots, £115, Burberry, 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB

BARBIE GIRL A collectible doll for art lovers Andy Warhol Campbell Soup Barbie, £72.95, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

MAGIC MOMENTS Visit Platform 9¾ and buy a Harry Potter souvenir Gryffindor scarf, £33, The Harry Potter Shop, King’s Cross station, N1 9AP

UNDER THE BRIDGE Build your own 3D puzzle Ravensburger Tower Bridge, £35, Hamleys, 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT

LIGHT UP YOUR LIFE Choose from light sabres inspired by the Star Wars film franchise Star Wars light sabres, £24.99-£39.99, John Lewis, Oxford St, W1C 1DX

Top Pick

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; CHILDREN © ISTOCK

BEAR HUGS Michael Bond’s classic bear Paddington Bear Union Jack Bag, £10, Hamleys, 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT

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TOWE & THE R BRIDG SEE M MONUM E

E ORE A N ND SA T VE

ADULT S £11 I CHILDR EN £5 I FAMILY TICKET S FROM

£18.30

See London from two unique perspectives.

Experience the amazing Tower Bridge glass walkways and The Monument’s breathtaking views.

Tower Bridge I The Monument www.towerbridge.org.uk www.themonument.org.uk

Tower Bridge and The Monument are provided by the City of London Corporation - a uniquely diverse organisation in that it not only promotes and supports the City and provides it with a full range of services, but also provides wider services for London and the nation as a whole.

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WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS GUIDE

FROM LONDON Gifts for the festive season that will remind you of your trip to London all year round

- SOUVENIRS -

THE BIG PICTURE See London without even leaving home Brightest London is Best Reached by Underground Poster, £9.95, London Transport Museum, Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB

YOUR CUP OF TEA Pick up music memorabilia from the legendary Abbey Road Studios Abbey Road Mug, £8.50, Abbey Road Studios Store, 3 Abbey Rd, NW8 9AY

CHECKMATE Play chess with London icons, from The Shard to the London Eye Skyline Chess Set, £80, Tower Bridge Exhibition, Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP

FLY LIKE A BIRD Take home a quirky souvenir Pigeon, £15, We Built This City, 56 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF

A VIEW TO A THRILL Created by the world-renowned artist who draws from memory London skyline, from £25, Stephen Wiltshire Gallery, 5 Royal Opera Arcade, SW1Y 4UY

ART OF GLASS Take your pick of glass ornaments from John Lewis’ tourism collection Passport Bauble, £5; Bus Decoration, £5; Bombki Tourism Little London Taxi Glass Hanging, £19, John Lewis, Oxford St, W1C 1DX

CHARMED LIFE Build your own bracelet with charms Festive Tree Charm, £60; Sleighing Santa Charm, £40, Pandora, 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD

TERRIFIC TOYS A limited-edition bear that comes with a numbered certificate Royal Chef Bear, £250, Buckingham Palace Shop, 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; BIG BEN © ISTOCK

Top Pick

BAG FOR LIFE It features the iconic portrait of the Queen on her 1953 coronation Cecil Beaton Queen Elizabeth II Tote, £13.50, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

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IN T ERN AT ION A L . INDI V IDUA L . IN S T Y L E .

DESTINATION WESTFIELD L ONDON’S ULT IM AT E SHOPPING E X PERIENCE

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WHERE NOW | CHRISTMAS GUIDE

FROM LONDON WINTER WARMER This leather dog coat is crafted in England The Leather Dog Co., Bentley Coat, £85, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

Christmas is for everyone, so select a special something for your pet

LET THEM EAT CAKE Create a cake for your dog Personalised Christmas Cake for Dogs, £14.99, www.chelseadogs.com

- PETS TIMELY TREATS Because everyone deserves a stocking Cat Treat Stocking, £10, Next, 327-329 Oxford St, W1C 2HX

DINNER IS SERVED Available exclusively at Harrods Medium Pet Bowl, £14.95, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

A SNUG FIT Get your pet’s name written on their own blanket Luxury Personalised Pet Blanket, £18.50, www.chelseadogs.com

THE FINAL COUNTDOWN Delicious doggy treats Good Boy Dog Treat Advent Calendar, £3.99, John Lewis, Oxford St, W1C 1DX

A DOG’S DINNER Christmas puddings for pets Rosewood Cupid’s Christmas Puds, £3 for four, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

TOP CAT Feeding for your feline friends Alessi Tigrito Cat Bowl in Blue, £49.95, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

TIME FOR BED Beautiful British pet products Hector dog bed, from £85, www.poppyandrufus.co.uk

JAR OF HEARTS A canine cookie jar MacKenzie Childs Canine Cookie Jar, £115, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

COAT OF ARMS Visit central London’s only pet shop Union Jack Jumper, from £31.95, Bow Wow, 50a Earlham St, WC2H 9LA

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; CAT AND DOG © ISTOCK

Top Pick

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PlanetPass

£

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; CAT AND DOG © ISTOCK

r e p m a h a WIN hristmas C r u o !* in W A R D E Z PRI Send a parc el wit Mai h

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020 7224 1840 2666

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S

CELEBRATE THE MOMENT Make memories and set new traditions this festive season with an exquisite gift from PANDORA 28 W H E R E LO N D O N I D E C E M B E R 2016

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ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF PANDORA

ince launching in 1982, as a humble jewellery shop in Copenhagen, Denmark, by the husband and wife team, Per and Winnie Enevoldsen, PANDORA has brought its high-quality, hand-finished modern jewellery to women all over the world. Now in more than 100 countries in over 8,900 points of sale, the London flagship store, located on Oxford Street, is the world’s largest.

PANDORA specialises in exquisite necklaces, earrings, rings and charm bracelets at affordable prices. Inspiring women to express their individuality, the charm bracelet is a special gift.

With more than 600 unique charms, including London icons, in sterling silver, 14ct gold and PANDORA rose, you can create your own bracelet to reflect your life stories and unique style.

Be charmed by Pandora.

PANDORA, 465 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 020-7495 0450. www.pandora.net

PANDORA | WHERE NOW

OLD-WORLD ADORNMENT

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF PANDORA

An evocation of heirloom romance Reimagining vintage jewellery box treasures from the Edwardian 1900s and late Victorian era, PANDORA draws from the past to create a contemporary collection of standout jewellery pieces. Using old craftsmanship techniques, stone-settings and mill graining, thoughtfully mixed with modern innovations, the decadent 14 ct gold and cubic zirconia pieces strike a cord with the modern woman. Infused with the nostalgia and romance of antique designs, the collection brings the glamour of the past to today to create lust-worthy sparklers that will forever retain their relevance and charm.

A WINTER’S TALE

CELESTIAL TALES

The Christmas Collection ▲ Celebrate the magic of Christmas with this new range of seasonal charms, which includes festive characters, from a Sleighing Santa to traditional Angels of Grace. Hand-finished in sterling silver and 14ct gold, coloured enamel and with a hint of sparkle, these meticulously crafted designs allow multiple ways to create timeless and unique combinations. The Floating Locket necklace, PANDORA’s most recent design, now comes with the option of a new three-piece Christmas Wonder Petite charm set to place inside the locket. With a focus on memories and traditions during the festive period, this is the perfect keepsake present to make this year a meaningful Christmas.

The season’s rising jewellery stars Inspired by the cosmos and bright white landscapes, PANDORA’s collection reimagines winter into a captivating collection. Accessorise your look this holiday season with elegant statement rings, pendant necklaces and stunning earrings featuring shards of ice blue crystal, opalescent white and moonlight blue stone cuts.

From sleek and refined pieces to beautiful heritage-inspired jewellery, this contemporary collection can be mixed to match every occasion, from upgrading your daytime look to adding the finishing touches to your party outfit. www.wheretraveler.com 29

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE Main image: Natural History Museum Below: Hyde Park Winter Wonderland

Get your skates on!

When the scent of mulled wine wafts through the air and your nose turns so cold you can’t feel it any more, you know winter has arrived. And one of the most magical ways to celebrate the season is by whizzing around an ice rink.

Now in its 10th year, Hyde Park Winter Wonderland (to 2 Jan; p. 36) is one of the UK’s biggest winter festivals – it has a Bavarian market, a traditional fairground and a big wheel, as well as spectacular ice sculptures. The highlight, though, is its huge outdoor ice rink – the UK’s largest. Skate hire is included for the 50-minute sessions and a live band plays under a canopy of 100,000 lights on the Victorian bandstand in the centre of the rink.

Skate at Somerset House (to 15 Jan; p. 42), meanwhile, is popular with celebrities; famous faces have ranged from the Duchess of Cambridge’s sister, Pippa, to model Lily Cole.

Channel your inner Torvill and Dean around the grand courtyard ice rink to tunes played

by DJs from the Green Man Festival and the Ministry of Sound, then warm up in Fortnum & Mason’s Lodge – a cosy restaurant serving dishes from the iconic store on Piccadilly.

You can also pop into Skate Lounge, a rustic alpine bar that’s new for 2016, and shop for presents in Fortnum’s Christmas Arcade.

Staying on the other side of town? Then opt for the ice rink where your backdrop is the Natural History Museum (to 8 Jan; p. 42). Afterwards, warm up over a glass of mulled wine in the Café Bar, which overlooks

the rink. If your skating skills aren’t up to scratch, head to Skate in the City (to 4 Feb; Exchange Square, EC2A 2BQ ) behind Liverpool Street station instead. Little ones can hop on to seal skates and ride-on penguins while people of all ages can take advantage of skating lessons. At the end of your session, you can celebrate letting go of the side by tucking into street food from surrounding vendors.

Another alternative is a whizz around the rink in the dry moat beneath the 900-year-old Tower of London (to 3 Jan; p. 35). The tower definitely wins points in the romance stakes as hundreds of snowflakes will be illuminated on to its wall. While you’re there, pop into the Eis Haus, a -5°C pop-up bar made from ice.

Coats are provided to keep you cosy as you sip drinks from glasses made from ice, surrounded by ice sculptures. If your fingers still turn blue, then warm yourself up over fondue and a hot chocolate in the Dip-Dunk Lodge.

Happy skating!

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM © NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM; WINTER WONDERLAND © PWR EVENTS

Wrap up warm and get into the festive spirit at one of the capital’s outdoor ice rinks, says Sarah Riches

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London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See

By Night

The family-friendly Taxi Tour Company “We meet as strangers and part as friends”

Enjoy a private London tour for 2 or 3 hours, half day or even a full day in an iconic London Taxi.

Departing daily from Green Park

See the sights before taking our ‘Hidden Treasures Tour’ to explore parts of London that tourists never normally get to see.

bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30 and 21:20 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

Adult - £18 Child - £10

Private tours available for groups day or night

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

www.seelondonbynight.com

Themed tours include Harry Potter, Doctor Who, Downton Abbey, James Bond, The Beatles, Ghost tour, Sinister London, ‘It’s only Rock n Roll’ and many more.

Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor.

Call us on: 07970 911223 / 07398 200761 or 020 8590 3621 5 star service and reviews

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM © NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM; WINTER WONDERLAND © PWR EVENTS

LONDON. LOOK AGAIN.

FREE ENTRY

MUSEUMOFLONDON.ORG.UK

#LOOKAGAIN

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE WHERE PASS LONDON, VISIT WHEREPASSLONDON.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts.

References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Please check for Christmas opening times

SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the grand home of the Duke of Wellington, which contains the first duke’s collection of paintings, porcelain, sculpture and furniture.

The house was designed and furnished by Robert Adam and was later remodelled for the Duke of Wellington. Check for times and prices. www.english-heritage.org.uk/apsleyhouse.

149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Banqueting House

Changing the Guard

This building’s ceiling was painted by Rubens.

Daily 10am-1pm, but check before visiting. Adult £6; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

At 11.30am every other day, watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt.

Please note there is no ceremony in very wet weather. Changing the Life Guard Ceremony takes place Mon-Fri 11am; Sun 10am, though check. When the sentries change, trumpeters play. www.royal.gov.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7.

Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy. Closed to the public (except in summer). www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300.

F6/F7. Station: Victoria.

Chelsea Physic Garden London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 and has a vast range of species including medicinal plants. Free daily tours. Mon-Fri 11am3pm. Adult £9.50; child £6.95. www.chelseaphysic garden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Cutty Sark PASS PARTNER This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. 10 Dec: Christmas Concert. Listen to the Lewisham and Greenwich NHS Choir sing Christmas carols. 16 Dec: Silent Disco. Dance beneath the ship. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12.15; child £6.30. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608.

Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Winter evenings may be dark but gardens across the capital are lighting up the night. During Christmas at Kew (to 2 Jan; p. 34), Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew is illuminated by 60,000 lights.

Palm House pond will be lit by lasers, while the lawn will shine with ‘singing’ Christmas trees. You’ll be wowed by floral installations and crystals hanging from trees. If you feel chilly, sip mulled wine and snack on roasted chestnuts.

Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary in this home. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm (closed bank holidays). Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsons house.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

LIGHTS COURTESY OF ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW

A pretty park

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LIGHTS COURTESY OF ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW

SIGHTSEEING Go Ape Battersea Park

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs

Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Daily from 9.30am.

Adult £35; child from £27. www.goape.co.uk/ battersea-park. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0845643 9236. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Actors bring this scary attraction to life. Tickets also include the London Tombs, which are in a former plague pit. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am6pm. Adult £26.95; child £21.45. www.thelondon bridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Golden Hinde II A full-size reconstruction of Sir Francis Drake’s 16th-century vessel, in which he circumnavigated the globe. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Guided tour adult £7; child £5. www.goldenhinde.com. 1 Pickfords Wharf, Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0123. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

Handel and Hendrix in London

The London Dungeon PASS PARTNER Spectacular sets and actors evoke ghoulish encounters from 1,000 years of Britain’s past in a comedic style. Not for small children. Joint tickets

with London Aquarium, London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com.

County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-423 2240. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Coca-Cola London Eye PASS PARTNER One of the world’s largest observation wheels.

Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Daily 10am-8.30pm. Adult £24.95; child £18.95. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Former homes of Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. 10 Dec: A Family Christmas. An interactive concert where families help make the music.

Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm; Sun noon-6pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhouse.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

HMS Belfast

Ore Bauble, Enemark & Thompson

Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser.

Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament The site of British Parliament since 1265, the neogothic building was constructed in the 19th century.

Hear Big Ben chime in its clock tower and watch debates for free from the Public Galleries. Guided and audio tours every Sat until 17 Dec; also WedFri 22-30 Dec. Guided tour adult £25.50; child £11.

Audio tour adult £18.50; child £7.50 (first child free). www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114.

F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire.

Check for prices and times. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219.

F8. Station: Westminster.

Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home. Daily 10am-6pm.

Adult £15; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map.

Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood House with its beautiful landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adam’s interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandts, Vermeers and Gainsboroughs. Free admission.

Daily 10am-4pm. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 0208348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Christmas Open House

KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Kids can ‘work’ in TV, animation studios, a chocolate factory, a tattoo parlour and lots more. 15 Dec: Silent Disco for Adults.

Daily from 10am; call for closing times. Adult £18; child £31-£33.50. www.london.kidzania.com.

Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

18 November - 24 December

62-66 Bermondsey Street 5 minutes from The Shard

londonglassblowing.co.uk

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SIGHTSEEING ZSL London Zoo

The Monument

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park

PASS PARTNER The world’s oldest scientific zoo has more than 750 species (p. 12). Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £21.50; child £17.25. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

This commemorates the Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps for a view. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm.

Adult £4; child £2. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument. org.uk. The Monument, Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

The site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games. Includes the ArcelorMittal Orbit. Check for events. Park open 24 hours daily.

Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympic park.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Madame Tussauds

18 Stafford Terrace PASS PARTNER Wax figures depicting famous people. Joint tickets The former home of Punch cartoonist Edward with London Aquarium, London Dungeon, London Linley Sambourne. Wed; Sat-Sun 11am-12.15pm Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Check for & 2pm-5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. copy.pdf 1 05/08/2015 16:08 times. AdultBBTLDTWhereLondon_190x118_050815 £35; child £29.50. www.madame www.rbkc.gov.uk.

18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. tussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

SIGHTSEEING BUS TOUR

HOP-ON

Ripley’s Believe It or Not! PASS PARTNER Explore a range of oddities over six floors, from a shrunken head to the world’s tallest man.

Daily 10am-midnight. Adult £27.95; child £20.95. www.ripleyslondon.com. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 020-3238 0022. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew PASS PARTNER Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe (p. 12 & p. 32). Daily 10am-4.15pm. Adult £15; child £3.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

HOP-OFF

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Terrific tours

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MY

CY

CMY

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LIVE OR

FREE RIVER CRUISE

3 FREE WALKING TOURS

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24 OR 48 HOUR TICKETS

FREE

NIGHT TOUR

WITH 48 HOUR TICKET

RECORDED COMMENTARY

Why does Green Park have its name?

Because King Charles II picked flowers there for his mistress, until his wife demanded they be removed. Learn trivia like this on a tour via PlanetPass (p. 37). The app lets you pick a time and a date for a private tour by a Blue Badge guide. The popular two-hour Tea Tasting tour visits the iconic department store Fortnum & Mason on Piccadilly, which dates from 1707, to Twinings on the Strand, which has been trading tea for 300 years.

The Royal Mews

The Royal Observatory

For great online savings visit:

BIGBUSTOURS.COM/LONDON or speak to your concierge

PASS PARTNER The home of Greenwich Mean Time, where you can watch planetarium shows. Observatory and Meridian Line daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Avenue, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/ Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

FORTNUM & MASON © ISTOCK

Built by John Nash in 1825, this houses the Queen’s vehicles, carriages and horses. Check for times.

Adult £9.30; child £5.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk.

Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

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SIGHTSEEING Sea Life London Aquarium

Warner Bros Studio Tour London

PASS PARTNER One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a walkway above 16 sharks.

Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat-Sun 9am-7pm. Adult £24.50; child £18.10. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. www.sealife.co.uk/london.

County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-663 1678. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Climb to the viewing galleries of this arch for PASS PARTNER Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry panoramic views over the Royal Parks. Joint tickets Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-5pm.

Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.english-heritage.

Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. Platform 9¾. A fascinating insight into filmmaking.

T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Hogwarts in the Snow. Experience Christmas time Westminster Abbey at Hogwarts and discover how filmmakers created The crowning and burial site of most English fire, ice and snow that never melts. Please check monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial for times. Adult £35; child £27. Booking essential. place of famous writers. Mon-Sat, check for times. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, 1 child 05/08/2015 16:01 Adult £20; £9. www.westminster-abbey.org.

Leavesden, BBTLNTWhereLondon_190x118_050815 Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084copy.pdf 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7.

0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

Shrek’s Adventure!

PASS PARTNER Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus and meet the characters from the films. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Sea Life London Aquarium available.

Please check for times. Adult £27; child £21.85. www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Palace One of London’s oldest palaces, St James’s was constructed in the 14th century. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.

Wellington Arch

SPECTACULAR SIGHTSEEING

NIGHT TOUR

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing centre and live classical music (some free). Check for opening times (p. 54). Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-inthe-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 0207766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

St Paul’s Cathedral PASS PARTNER Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and Golden Gallery for a London C panorama (p. 10). Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; M child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

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Tower Bridge Exhibition

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This bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks. Check out the glassMYfloor on the walkway. Joint tickets with The Monument CY available. 31 Dec: Bridge Lift at 11.55pm. Daily 9.30am5pm. Adult £9; child £3.90. www.towerbridge.org.uk.

CMY Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11.

Station: Tower Hill.

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Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels (p. 30). Tue-Sat 9am4.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-4.30pm. Adult £22.50; child £10.50. www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

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This venue used to protect the Queen’s treasures and now it’s home to rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia at Hard Rock Cafe’s revamped museum. Daily 11.30am10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The View from The Shard PASS PARTNER Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe. At 1,017ft, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor.

Check for times. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theview fromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

For great online savings visit:

BIGBUSTOURS.COM/LONDON or speak to your concierge

*on purple route only

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SIGHTSEEING

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

RIVER TRIPS

Hyde Park Winter Wonderland

Circular Cruise Westminster

One of the UK’s biggest winter festivals, it includes a Bavarian market, fairground, big wheel and an ice rink (p. 30 & p. 56). Free admission. www.hydeparkwinterwonderland.com. Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 0300-061 2000. E6. Station: Hyde Park.

PASS PARTNER Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hopon hop-off sightseeing service along the River Thames that takes off from Westminster Pier.

Boats depart every 40 minutes between 11am and 3pm for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. Adult single £10, return £14; child single £5, return £7. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

Southbank Centre’s Winter Festival Annual market (p. 56) where you can shop for gifts, listen to carols by choirs or pay to watch a circus show. Admission free. www.southbankcentre.co.uk.

Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7960 4200. E8. Station: Waterloo.

City Cruises PASS PARTNER Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. Other cruises also available. Please check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com.

Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7740 0400.

Departure points vary.

London Duck Tours See some of London’s sights on land before a thrilling splashdown on the River Thames. Adults £26; child £18. www.londonducktours.co.uk. 55 York Rd, SE1 7NJ. T: 020-7928 3132. F8. Station: Waterloo.

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute cruise. Daily 11.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.58.

Discounted joint tickets with London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

MBNA Thames Clippers PASS PARTNER The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 20 piers across the capital. Oyster cards are valid. River Roamer hop-on and off adult £14.70; child 7.35. www.thamesclippers.com. Various points along River Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thames River Services PASS PARTNER This hop-on, hop-off service with live commentary departs from Westminster Pier and St Katharine’s Pier every 30 minutes 10am-4pm for Greenwich Piers and the Thames Barrier. Westminster to Greenwich adult single £12.50, return £16.50; child single £6.25, return £8.25. www.thamesriverservices.london.

Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

Thamesjet Try this 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience, which is the most extreme ride on the River Thames. Departs from Westminster Pier. WedSun 11am-3pm. Adult from £39; child from £28. www.thamesjet.com. Various departure points.

T: 020-7740 0400.

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £22; child £11. www.bigbustours.com. Various departure points.

T: 020-7808 6753.

Big Bus Walking Tours Choose from Royal London at 10.20am, Harry Potter at 1.30pm and Haunting Mysteries at 4.30pm. All take 90 minutes to two hours. £5, or free with a Big Bus Tour. Daily. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop 10, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.

Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of building, fires and bombings. Adult £8 adult; child £6. Please check for times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

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SIGHTSEEING Capital Taxi Tours

Original London Sightseeing Walk

Sit back and relax as a Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide drives you around in a licenced taxi for up to five people. Choose from various London tours by day or night and themed tours. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capital taxitours.co.uk. Various departure points.

T: 020-8590 3621.

Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre and include Changing the Guard (departing 10.30am), Rock ‘n’ Roll (1pm) and Jack the Ripper (3.30pm from Tower Hill Station).

Walking tours are free with Original London Sightseeing Tour. www.theoriginaltour.com.

17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722.

E7. Station: Charing Cross.

City of London Guides Walks A variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street – the home of journalism – and City gardens to Smithfield Market. Adult free-£12.50; child free-£8. www.city oflondonguides.com.

Various departure points.

The Original Tour PASS PARTNER With more than 60 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to

hop on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. Adult £30; child £15. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722.

E7. Station: Charing Cross.

PlanetPass PlanetPass is an app that allows you to book a private guided tour for up to six people at any time or day (p. 34). Choose from tours covering topics such as street art, Jack the Ripper, afternoon tea and Borough Market. From £9 per person. www.planetpass.com. Various meeting points. T: 01865-922380.

Evan Evans PASS PARTNER The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London, which has been running since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle to Stonehenge.

Please check for times and prices. www.evan evanstours.com. Various departure points.

T: 020-7950 1777.

Come and

be jolly

Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the experts offer experiences from London to locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039. Station: Victoria.

11 Nov 2016 – 25 Jan 2017

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets.

Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

GoToMidtown Tours There are more than 100 45-minute tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. There is no need to book. The 10am & 1pm walks start outside Holborn Tube station (88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA). The 11am; 2pm & 5.30pm walks start at the red sculpture in Central Saint Giles courtyard (Giles High St, WC2H 8AG). www.gotomidtown. co.uk. D7/8. Station: Holborn.

Circus, shows, roller disco, Gonks, Moomins and free events

Jack the Ripper Tours An intriguing look at the infamous Jack the Ripper.

Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com.

Aldgate East Underground station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views.

Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour. Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondon helicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

Winter Market

Fri 11 Nov 2016 – Sun 8 Jan 2017 Stroll through our wooden chalet markets, filled with festive food, drink, gifts and treats.

Bianco

Wed 23 Nov 2016 – Sun 22 Jan 2017 Marvel at a dramatic live contemporary circus performance.

‘Joyful, unashamed pleasure’ (The Guardian)

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Favourites include the Jack the Ripper Walk (daily 7.30pm & Sat 3pm from Tower Hill), a Harry Potter tour (Wed & SatSun 2pm, departure points vary) and a spooky Ghost Walk (daily 7.30pm; departure points vary).

Walks take two hours. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

southbankcentre.co.uk/winter

Waterloo, Embankment

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SIGHTSEEING Walkit

Royal Albert Hall Tours

See London by Night Tour

Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this exquisite Victorian concert hall. Most days throughout the year; call for times. Adult £12.75; child £5.75. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Ride around the West End and City in the evening.

Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Innovative site aiming to get people out on foot. Enter your starting point and destination (including street, place or postcode), and the site will work out a route map, distance, time, calorie burn and carbon saving. www.walkit.com.

Royal Opera House

Shakespeare’s Globe (Tours)

Wembley Tours

One of the world’s leading opera venues, also home to the Royal Ballet company. 2-21 Dec: Backstage Tour. Tour behind the scenes for an insight into the venue’s history. Most days 10.30am; 12.30pm & 2.30pm, but check. Adult £12; child £8.50. www.royal operahouse.org. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

This is a reconstruction of Shakespeare’s Elizabethan Globe Theatre. Globe exhibition daily 9am-5pm.

Globe tours Mon 9.30am-5pm; Tue-Sat 9.30am12.30pm; Sun 9.30am-11.30am. Exhibition and Globe tour adult £16; child £9. www.shakespeares globe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

PASS PARTNER Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. Daily from 10am. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium.com/wembleytours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

OUT OF TOWN Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. To 31 Dec: Michelangelo Pistoletto, Blenheim Art Foundation. A solo exhibition on the Italian artist’s 50-year career, which includes new works commissioned for Blenheim Palace. Palace and formal gardens daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Palace, park and gardens adult £24.90; child £13.90; park and gardens adult £14.90; child £6.90. www.blenheim palace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s residence in Scotland. Please check for times. Adult £12; child £7.20. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley, then a 15-minute walk.

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £15.50; child £9.30. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures.

Visit The Tea Shop, then wander to the nearby Grade I-listed Watts Chapel. 10 Dec: Illuminated Decorations. Create paper decorations with an artist. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50 (Tue £4.75); child free. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Charges for special events. Daily 9.45am-4.15pm – check for closures. Adult £20; child £11.70. www.royal collection.org.uk. Windsor Castle, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

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LONDON’S NO.1 CHRISTMAS CRUISES ON THE THAMES

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: a drawing room from 1910; decorations from 1935; a drawing room from 1830; a living room from 1930

Home for Christmas For millions of people around the world, Christmas Day is a time to gather with friends and family at home, often in a living room adorned with decorations.

It’s a ritual that has remained the same for centuries in the UK while our houses, living rooms, decorations and festive traditions continue to modernise and evolve. This festive season, step back through time at The Geffrye Museum and experience how Christmas has been celebrated over 400 years.

Set within beautiful 18th-century almshouse buildings in fashionable east London, this unique museum houses a series of period rooms, decorated and furnished in the style of different eras, from 1600 to the present day.

For most of the year, these displays represent typical English middle-class living rooms through the ages, but as the festive season approaches they take on a holiday glow for Christmas Past: 400 Years of Seasonal Traditions in English Homes (to 8 Jan).

As you make your way around, bear in mind

the type of homeowners who would have occupied these rooms. In the 17th and 18th centuries, they would have been doctors, merchants, financiers and lawyers; by the 19th century, people working in business and manufacturing; and in the 20th century, people from a range of sectors, including finance, architecture and the creative industries.

A small introduction describes a typical town house of the time, including the type

of furniture and furnishings and the main changes in the style of English homes.

Take a seat on a replica chair as you make your way through the 11 period rooms and transport your mind back to days gone by.

Along the way, you’ll see authentic festive decorations, lighting and greenery and hear traditional music from each period.

Discover the origins and meanings of Christmas traditions such as feasting, dancing and kissing under the mistletoe.

In which year did we start hanging up stockings? When did we start sending Christmas cards to loved ones? What games did our ancestors play? All these questions and more are answered in this free exhibition.

Look out for subtle changes in the decoration of a traditional Christmas tree and get some retro inspiration for your cocktail parties back home. Loved by Londoners and visitors to the capital alike, this exhibition will fill you with festive cheer.

For full listing, turn to p. 42

1910 ROOM © MORLEY VON STERNBERG; CHRISTMAS DECORATIONS © STEVE SPELLER; 1830 ROOM © CHRIS RIDLEY; 1930 LIVING ROOM © MANDY WILLIAMS

Step back in time and find out how Christmas has been celebrated over the centuries. Sam Rogg feels festive as she visits The Geffrye Museum to discover the origins of crackers, cards and kissing under the mistletoe

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE WHERE PASS LONDON, VISIT WHEREPASSLONDON.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Please check for Christmas opening times

MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am. Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for closures. Self-guided adult £20; child £10.

‘Legends’ adult from £40; child from £20.75. Museum only adult £8; child £5. www.arsenal.com/tours.

Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 0207619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the Bank of England from its 1694 foundation to the present day. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House Charming 18th-century townhouse and the last remaining home of the American Founding Father.

10 Dec: Family Day: Children’s Christmas Party. Crafts and singalongs. Tue advance booking required.

Shows adult £7; under-16s free. Mon guided tours adult £3.50; under-16s free. www.benjamin franklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Clink Prison Museum

Fashion and Textile Museum

In this former prison dating back to 1144, you can see instruments of torture. Mon-Fri 10am6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery.

To 15 Jan: 1920s Jazz Age: Fashion & Photographs.

Glittering display. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur until 8pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.

The Design Museum Recently relocated to High Street Kensington.

Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org.

224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The Fan Museum Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan with examples from the 12th century to the present day.

To 31 Dec: Town & Country. Display of fans which depict buildings. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £4; child £3. www.thefan museum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 0208305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Florence Nightingale Museum Discover the work of the 19th-century nurse. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florencenightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 0374. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Foundling Museum Explore Britain’s original home for abandoned children, which was founded in 1739. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Top Pick

The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus talks, evening events and performances. To 26 Feb: South Africa: The Art of a Nation. Exhibition featuring some of the earliest examples of human creativity plus contemporary works. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8.

Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

The Cartoon Museum British cartoons, caricature and comic art from the 18th century to today. To 22 Jan: Pictures from Punch. See cartoons from across the history of the magazine, created by some of Britain’s greatest humorous artists. Mon-Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun noon-5.30pm. Adult £7; under 18s free. www.cartoon museum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 0207580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.

ROBERT RAUSCHENBERG RETROACTIVE II 1963 © NATHAN KEAY/MCA CHICAGO

SPELLER; 1830 ROOM © CHRIS RIDLEY; 1930 LIVING ROOM © MANDY WILLIAMS

Charles Dickens Museum The former home of Victorian novelist Charles Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Dickensian Walks every Wed 11.30am. TueSun 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickens museum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 0207405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours PASS PARTNER Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Daily 10am-3pm; check for closures and ‘Legends’ tours (tickets £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc. com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Churchill War Rooms Fortified basement where Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £17.25; child £8.60; under-fives free. www.iwm.org.uk.

Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 0207930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Pop goes the easel In 1955, half a century before Tracey Emin shocked the art world with her unmade bed, Robert Rauschenberg turned a pillow, soiled sheets and a blanket into a 3D painting called Bed and hung it on the wall like a self-portrait. Discover this modern American master and Pop Art pioneer in Robert Rauschenberg at Tate Modern (from 1 Dec; p. 45), the first major exhibition of his work in the UK for 35 years. Rauschenberg worked with a diverse range of materials, from paint and silk-screen printing to found objects and newspapers. See iconic works including Monogram (a paint-splattered taxidermy goat in a car tyre surrounded by street signs) and large-scale Pop Art screen prints picturing the likes of JF Kennedy (above). www.wheretraveler.com 41

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The Geffrye Museum

Household Cavalry Museum

London Transport Museum

Historic 18th-century almshouses with rooms recreating English interiors from 1600 to the present day. To 8 Jan: Christmas Past: 400 Years of Seasonal Traditions in English Homes. The museum’s period rooms are transformed with authentic decorations (p. 40). Tue-Sun & bank holidays, 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.geffrye-museum.org.uk.

136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 020-7739 9893.

Off map. Station: Hoxton.

See the work of the Queen’s mounted guard, with a working stables. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard daily on Horse Guards Parade at 11am; Sun 10am; plus inspection at 4pm. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk.

Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Museum exploring the city’s transport network.

To 18 Dec: Down Street: Churchill’s Secret Station. Experience the warren of tunnels where the former Prime Minister took refuge at the height of the Blitz. Mon-Thur & Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £17; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Guards Museum The history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards, which watch over the Royal Palaces. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £6; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.

Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon that of the adventuring Victorian tea trader Frederick John Horniman. Daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman. ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872.

Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake. Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.house ofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, King’s Cross, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map.

Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Imperial War Museum Huge displays of conflicts, particularly those that involve Britain and the Commonwealth. To 8 Jan: Real to Reel: A Century of War Movies. Behind the scenes of iconic war films. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm. org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000.

E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

Jewish Museum

Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum. To 17 Apr: Fire! Fire! Discover London before, during and after the Great Fire of 1666. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.museum oflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

Museum of London Docklands

Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today. Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewish museum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map.

Station: Camden Town.

Discover the history of the Thames. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk/docklands. No 1 Warehouse, West India Quay, E14 4AL. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: West India Quay.

Leighton House Museum

Spread over several sites, which were originally part of a 19th-century school for seafarers’ children.

Includes the Maritime Galleries, with Captain Cook’s ship Endeavour and Nelson’s Trafalgar uniform.

To 17 Apr: Emma Hamilton: Seduction and Celebrity.

Learn about Nelson’s mistress. Mon-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

The restored former home of Lord Frederic Leighton is now a museum of his life and work.

To 2 Apr: Flaming June: The Making of an Icon.

Leighton’s masterpiece returns to where it was painted. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

National Maritime Museum

Natural History Museum Exhibits about nature’s many wonders. To 8 Jan: Ice Rink. Book ahead for a day or night session on one of the capital’s best rinks (p. 30). Daily 10am-5.50pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

This 17th-century house, once home to Charles I’s queen, Henrietta Maria, now displays a stunning fine art collection. Daily 10am-5pm; closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/queenshouse. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Science Museum Enjoy changing exhibitions, an IMAX 3D cinema and the BBC’s first radio transmitter 2LO. Wonderlab: The Statoil Gallery. Interactive gallery exploring science and mathematics. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.science museum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0870870 4868. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Sir John Soane’s Museum

Down under Explore Australia’s significant contribution to the Impressionist movement in the first UK exhibition to focus on the subject. Australia’s Impressionists at The National Gallery (from 7 Dec; p. 43) features works by artists such as Tom Roberts, Arthur Streeton, Charles Conder and John Russell (above), who together played a key role in creating a new sense of national identity in the last years of the 19th century. If you’re in town on 12 Dec, be sure to pop in for the free lunchtime talk John Russell: An Australian Impressionist in France (1pm), and discover how friendships with van Gogh, Monet, Rodin and Matisse influenced his development as one of Australia’s most fascinating artists.

The architect Soane’s former home now houses paintings and antiquities. Museum tours daily; times vary. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm. Closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.soane.org.

13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

Somerset House This Thameside building houses the Courtauld Gallery, other galleries, cafés and restaurants.

To 15 Jan: Skate at Somerset House. Skate in the splendour of the courtyard (p. 30). To 12 Mar: Hair

by Sam McKnight. Major exhibition celebrating the master hairstylist’s career. Galleries daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.

JOHN RUSSELL’S IN THE MORNING, ALPES MARITIMES FROM ANTIBES © NATIONAL GALLERY OF AUSTRALIA, CANBERRA

Queen’s House

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JOHN RUSSELL’S IN THE MORNING, ALPES MARITIMES FROM ANTIBES © NATIONAL GALLERY OF AUSTRALIA, CANBERRA

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Twinings Museum See vintage teapots, caddies and photographs at the home of the famous teamakers. Mon-Fri 9.30am7.30pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm.

Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

V&A Museum of Childhood National collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. To 23 Apr: Game Plan: Board Games Rediscovered. Celebrate the fun of playing board games (p. 12). Daily 10am-5.45pm.

Admission free. www.museumofchildhood.org.uk.

Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200.

Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

Victoria and Albert Museum

Guildhall Art Gallery Art from 1670 to the present day. In the Heritage Gallery, you can see treasures including William Shakespeare’s First Folio. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700.

D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

The National Gallery One of the world’s great galleries, with works by masters from Monet to Leonardo da Vinci.

From 7 Dec: Australia’s Impressionists.

Discover Australia’s Impressionist movement in the first UK exhibition to focus on the subject

(p. 42). Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery British history told through portraiture. To 5 Feb: Picasso Portraits. Exhibition focusing on the artist’s portrayal of family, friends and lovers. Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular Late Shift special events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Housing a collection of fine and applied arts.

To 26 Feb: You Say You Want a Revolution: Records & Rebels 1966-1970. Explore the significance of the late 1960s through music, fashion, film, design and political activism. To 12 Mar: Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear. Explore different concepts of the ideal body. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam. ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000.

F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays its collection of Rococo art. Daily 10am-5pm.

Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org.

Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Artefacts relating to health and the body.

Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcome collection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Fall in love with Wimbledon

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours PASS PARTNER Trophies, memorabilia and fashions plus a collection of kit and artefacts from key players such as Serena Williams and Novak Djokovic. To 20 Mar: Reinventing the Racket. Ongoing, fun-packed exhibition of the museum’s most iconic and unusual rackets, featuring the old, the new and the entirely unique. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum £13, child £8; museum and tour £24, child £15. Family offer: one free child to every full price adult until 31 Mar. www.wimbledon.com/ museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields/Tooting Broadway, then bus 493.

GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue. To 5 Feb: The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined. Exhibition exploring taste in fashion.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions.

Mon-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun noon-11pm; bank holidays noon-11pm. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141.

D10. Station: Barbican.

The Courtauld Gallery Important European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in Somerset House, which has its own ice rink for Christmas. To 22 Jan: Rodin & Dance: The Essence of Movement. Wonderful exhibition exploring Rodin’s fascination with dance and acrobatic poses. Daily 10am-6pm.

Adult £9; child free. www.courtauld.ac.uk.

Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 0207848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.

Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites?

Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit.

Supported by

New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:30pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE

T: 020 8946 6131 wimbledon.com/museum

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The best of London in one simple card...

Illustration Š Shutterstock/ Lisa Kolbasa

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Where London_ LHM_December 1-3_ FINAL.pdf 1 10/31/2016 4:50:16 PM

The Queen’s Gallery Treasures from the Royal Collection. To 17 Apr: Portrait of the Artist. The first exhibition to focus on images of artists from within the Royal Collection, including Rembrandt, Rubens, Lucian Freud, Artemisia Gentileschi and David Hockney, with paintings dating from the 15th century to the 21st century. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £10.30; child £5.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk.

Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301.

C F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.

Royal Academy of Arts

M

Eighteenth-century apartments with RA Collection Y works in all media, including architecture. To 2 Jan: Abstract Expressionism. Fascinating display that CM reveals the full breadth of an unparalleled period in American art. To 29 Jan: Intrigue: James Ensor MY

by Luc Tuymans. Satirical and macabre work. Fri CY 10am-10pm; Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; check for regular special events and free lunchtime concerts. CMY Admission free, charges for special exhibitions.

K www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Saatchi Gallery Groundbreaking contemporary art in a stunningly renovated Georgian building in Chelsea, covering a mammoth 70,000sqft. To 28 Feb: Painters’ Painters.

Exhibition featuring nine present-day painters who already inspire the next generation of artists.

Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk.

Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 0207811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

FLAMING JUNE THE MAKING OF AN ICON

4 NOVEMBER 2016 - 2 APRIL 2017 Leighton House Museum 12 Holland Park Road London W14 8LZ

Serpentine Gallery A respected arts space in Kensington Gardens displaying modern and contemporary work.

Look out for the Serpentine Sackler Gallery, which is five minutes’ walk away and linked by the bridge over the Serpentine lake. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentine galleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Tate Britain Traditional and contemporary British art.

To 2 Jan: Turner Prize 2016. Discover the four artists shortlisted for this year’s award. To 5 Mar: Paul

Nash. A lifetime’s work by the famous artist including his earliest drawings and iconic World War II paintings. To 2 Apr: Art Now: Rachel MacLean: Wot U :-) About? See the work of the Glasgow-based multi-media artist, who creates artificial visions using green-screen technology. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern Admire international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station, plus see regular performances and installations at The Tanks (p. 56).

From 1 Dec: Robert Rauschenberg. Discover the modern American master who changed the face of art (p. 41). To 7 May: The Radical Eye: Modernist Photography from the Sir Elton John Collection. See one of the world’s greatest private collections of photography. To 8 Jan: The EY Exhibition: Wifredo Lam. A look at the career of Wifredo Lam, one of the most iconic Cuban artists of the 20th century. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

«««««

‘powerful and compulsive exhibition’ The Guardian

Until 15 January 2017 Book now

Members go free

nationalgallery.org.uk

Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, The Taking of Christ (detail), 1602. On indefinite loan to the National Gallery of Ireland from the Jesuit Community, Leeson St., Dublin who acknowledge the kind generosity of the late Dr Marie Lea-Wilson. Photo © The National Gallery of Ireland, Dublin

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

It’s show time!

Elsa and Anna from Disney’s Frozen, a fairy godmother and a pantomime cow are just some of the delights on stage during the Christmas season, says Sarah Riches ‘Tis the season to be jolly’ – which means it’s also the season for carols, ice shows, pantomimes and festive ballets.

Set to be a popular show for young ones, Disney on Ice presents Frozen at The O2 (21-30 Dec; p. 53) sees Mickey and Minnie Mouse guiding you through an enchanting land of snowmen, trolls and reindeers. On the way, you will meet familiar faces, including Anna and her magical sister Elsa, alongside characters from Toy Story, Finding Nemo and The Lion King. Disney princesses will also be making an appearance. Expect magic, special effects, storytelling and dance.

Cinderella at the London Palladium (from 10 Dec; p. 48) sees Amanda Holden from TV’s Britain’s Got Talent play the Fairy Godmother in this pantomime. An English tradition dating from the 1500s, pantomimes, or ‘pantos’, are family-friendly musicals performed over Christmas that combine slapstick comedy and dance with fairytales, gender-crossing and audience participation.

Holden says: ‘I can’t wait to spread my Fairy

Godmother dust over the festive season and it’s an honour to have been asked. I’m excited but nothing like my girls who can’t wait to watch their mama fly!’

Holden is joined by TV presenter Paul ‘Wicked Stepmother’ O’Grady and comedian Julian Clary. Lee Mead (Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat) plays Prince Charming and Natasha Barnes – Sheridan Smith’s understudy in Funny Girl – is Cinderella.

Cinderella is also showing at Chiswick House & Gardens (16-24 & 26-31 Dec; www.chgt.org.uk) – watch out for an illusionist, an acrobatic lizard and dancing mice as an eight-piece orchestra performs an original score.

For a classic Christmas show, don’t miss The Nutcracker at the Royal Opera House (to 12 Jan; p. 55) instead. With Lev Ivanov’s original choreography – updated by Peter

Wright – the classic ballet follows Clara and the Nutcracker on a journey to the Kingdom of Sweets to Tchaikovsky’s score. Highlights include a magical growing Christmas tree and a sleigh ride through snowflakes. The ballet will also be screened live in cinemas on 8 Dec. Not to be outdone, the Royal Albert Hall will host its annual Carols

by Candlelight concert (17-18 & 23-24 Dec; p. 54).

The Mozart Festival Orchestra – dressed in 18th-century costume – will perform classics, including Silent Night and Joy to the World, by Bach, Handel, Mozart and Corelli, while the actor Bernard Cribbins reads from Dickens and the Bible. You can also sing along to Good King Wenceslas and Hark! The Herald Angels Sing with the Mozart Festival Chorus. Can’t wait? Then start counting down the days with your advent calendar...

THE NUTCRACKER IMAGES © TRISTRAM KENTON; FROZEN © TIM PANNELL; CAROLS BY CANDLELIGHT COURTESY OF ROYAL ALBERT HALL

Clockwise from this picture: The Nutcracker; Carols by Candlelight; Disney on Ice presents Frozen; The Nutcracker

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‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ N E W YO R K POST

THE MUSICAL OFFICIAL HOTEL PARTNER

MatildaTheMusical.com

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP). Check for Christmas times

Jersey Boys The hit Olivier Award-winning story of US pop sensations Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons.

Check for days and times. No show 19 & 26 Dec. Tickets £24.50-£114. www.jerseyboyslondon.com.

Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Kinky Boots Fun musical about a shoe factory which reinvigorates its business by producing kneehigh boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical. co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Lazarus

Rent – The Musical (from 8 Dec; p. 50) is coming to St James Theatre in time for the show’s 20th anniversary. While Bruce Guthrie’s production is new, the rock musical is also a 2005 film and has run on Broadway for 12 years, scooping four Tony Awards.

Inspired by Puccini’s opera La Bohème, it’s about artists struggling to survive over Christmas in 1989. Guthrie says: ‘We want to capture the essence of bohemian New York at the height of the AIDS epidemic. It’s a place of grime and excitement, where inhabitants are fighting to connect with one another, as well as fighting for their lives.’

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me and a real flying carpet.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.25£127.25. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Beautiful – The Carole King Musical Musical about the early life and career of the award-winning singer-songwriter. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£127.50. www.beautifulmusical.co.uk. Aldwych Theatre, 49 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. E8.

Station: Covent Garden/Holborn/Charing Cross.

The Bodyguard Beverley Knight wows from start to finish as she sings all of Whitney Houston’s hits in this musical about a singer who falls in love with her bodyguard.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 3pm. Tickets £25-£95. www.dominiontheatre.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £27.50-£202.25. www.bookofmormonlondon.com.

Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.

Charlie and the Chocolate Factory Musical version of Roald Dahl’s children’s tale about an ordinary boy and an extraordinary confectioner.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50£94. www.charlieandthechocolatefactory.com.

Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Cinderella From 10 Dec: Catch a host of celebrities in this classic pantomime (p. 46). Check for days and times. Tickets £22.50-£99.50. www.reallyuseful theatres.co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Dreamgirls Glee TV star Amber Riley plays Effie White in this musical about the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£72.50. www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

In the Heights A Tony Award-winning musical about young love, set on the mean streets of Washington Heights in New York.

Expect lots of hip hop and street dance in this lively production.

19 Dec-8 Jan Mon, Wed-Fri 8.30pm; Tue 3pm & 8pm; Sun 6pm. Tickets £22.50-£59.50. www.intheheightslondon.com.

King’s Cross Theatre, Corner of King’s Boulevard and Goods Way, N1C 4UR. T: 0844-871 7604. Off map.

Station: King’s Cross.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in postrevolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. 19-31 Dec check times. Tickets £12.50£127.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160.

D8. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry.

Please check days and times. Tickets £40.20£142.20. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to the music of ABBA. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£97.50. www.mammamia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Mary Stuart From 2 Dec: Tragedy about the last days of Mary, Queen of Scots, starring Juliet Stevenson and Lia Williams. Check for times.

Tickets £10-£60. www.almeida. co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 0207359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

Matilda the Musical Show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Check for times. Tickets £20-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com.

Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Have a wild night out at the award-winning Disney’s The Lion King

RENT COURTESY OF ST JAMES THEATRE; THE LION KING © DISNEY

Life for rent

This David Bowie musical is a sequel to the 1976 film The Man Who Fell to Earth, in which David Bowie starred as Thomas Newton. Previously off-Broadway, it features Bowie hits along with three new songs.

Check for times. Tickets £15-£95. www.kingscross theatre.com. King’s Cross Theatre, Corner of King’s Boulevard and Goods Way, N1C 4UR. T: 0844-871 7604. Off map. Station: King’s Cross.

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ENTERTAINMENT Motown the Musical

School of Rock: The Musical

Brilliant feel-good musical based on the story of Detroit’s Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes and Michael Jackson. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £19.50-£145. www.shaftesbury theatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film of the same name. Check for times. Tickets £25-£99.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com.

New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; 19-31 Dec please check days and times. Tickets £23-£125. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Potted Panto From 10 Dec: Take a madcap ride through seven classic pantomimes from Aladdin to Dick Whittington. Search for Cinderella’s lost slipper, try to wake Sleeping Beauty or catch Jack’s giant climbing beanstalk to squash Snow White’s seven dwarves! Please check for times. Tickets £15-£95. www.nimaxtheatres.com. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8.

Station: Leicester Square.

Rent – The Musical From 8 Dec: Set around Christmas in 1989, this musical about a group of friends and lovers struggling to make their rent will make you feel alive with its catchy tunes (p. 48). Please check for times. Tickets £19.50-£59.50. www.stjamestheatre. co.uk. St James Theatre, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Stomp Award-winning fusion of theatre, dance, comedy and rhythmic percussion. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; occasional Weds.

Tickets £26-£67.50. www.stomplondon.co.uk.

Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

PLAYS The Comedy about a Bank Robbery Hilarious play about six crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£49.50. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time

A boy with learning difficulties uncovers more than he expected when investigating a local mystery. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat Thriller Live 2.30pm. Tickets £18-£92.50. www.curious Non-stop songs and dance celebrate onstage.com. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6AR. Michael Jackson’s career. Check T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: for times. Tickets £27.50-£87.50.

The Curious Incident of the Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric Theatre, Dog in the Night-Time 29 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. title is inspired by a Cymbeline T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Sherlock Holmes To 17 Dec: Classic novel Piccadilly Circus.

Shakespearean play about King Cymbeline, who wants his daughter to marry The Wedding Reception his stepson. Check for times. Tickets £10-£75.

10 & 17 Dec: Enjoy a three-course dinner and a www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, hilarious improvised show. 7.30pm-10pm. Tickets EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. D10. Station: Barbican. £38-£43. www.interactivetheatre.com. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. T: 0845154 4145. D8. Station: Holborn.

Wicked the Musical The back story of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. 19-31 Dec check for times.

Tickets £19.50-£125. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk.

Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

Dancing with death The world premiere of Matthew Bourne’s new ballet, The Red Shoes, is coming to Sadler’s Wells (from 6 Dec; p. 55). Bourne says: ‘It’s been a long-held ambition to bring The Red Shoes to the stage as a dance and drama. My challenge is to capture its surreal, sensuous quality within a more natural theatre setting.’ Based on the Academy Award-winning 1948 film, the ballet follows Victoria Page, an ambitious dancer who is cast by Boris Lermontov as the lead in Hans Christian Andersen’s fairytale The Red Shoes.

She soon finds herself tragically torn between her lover and her passion for dance.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV classic. Thur-Sat 7pm; Sat 1pm; Sun 1pm & 6pm. Tickets £59-£69. www.faultytowers-uk.com.

The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0845-154 4145. E8.

Station: Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Mousetrap Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit is still very popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Tue 3pm; Sat 4pm.

Tickets £18.50-£67.50. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk.

St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Nice Fish Oscar-winner Mark Rylance stars in this comic play about two men fishing on a frozen lake. Check for times. Tickets £15-£90. www.atgtickets.com.

Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

No Man’s Land To 17 Dec: Ian McKellen and Patrick Stewart reunite in this slow-moving comical drama about a distinguished poet and an alcoholic who invites a less successful poet into his home. MonSat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£150. www.wyndhamstheatre.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120.

E8. Station: Leicester Square.

A drama society is desperate to deliver a perfect performance of Peter Pan but faces lots of bad luck – with hilarious results. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £15-£71.50. www.apollotheatre london.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£67.50. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

THE RED SHOES COURTESY OF SADLER’S WELLS

Peter Pan Goes Wrong

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ENTERTAINMENT Saint Joan From 9 Dec: Gemma Arterton takes the

lead in this tragedy based on the life and trial of Joan of Arc. Mon-Sat, check for times. Tickets £7.50-£40. www.donmarwarehouse.com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Woman in Black A spooky story about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Check for times. Tickets £19.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8.

Station: Covent Garden.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS Christmas in Leicester Square This new festival lights up a patch of central London with a Christmas market, Santa’s grotto and a Belgian spiegeltent showing performances by the acrobatic theatre group La Soirée. Free admission. www.visitlondon.com. Leicester Square, WC2H 7JY. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Great Christmas Pudding Race 3 Dec: Watch people dressed up to complete a Christmas pudding obstacle course. 11am. Free. www.xmaspuddingrace.org.uk. Covent Garden, WC2. T: 07918-641 994. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Santa Run in Battersea Park 3 Dec: Watch as hundreds of people dress up as Father Christmas before running 6km around this beautiful park (p. 8). 10am. Free to watch. www.209events.com. Battersea Park, Albert Bridge Rd, SW11 4NJ. T: 01252-373797. Off map.

Station: Battersea Park.

Winter Festival at Southbank Centre Warm up over hot chocolate, browse festive chalets under fairylights and listen to carols.

A big-top tent hosts various shows. Free admission. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8.

Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES A Very Old Man with Enormous Wings During a thunderstorm, an old man with enormous wings crashes to earth in a flurry of feathers. For over sevens. Adult £14; child £12. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

Fallen angel

Babe, the Sheep-Pig A cute story about a polite piglet who hangs with the sheep, inspired by the children’s book that was turned into an Oscar-winning film. Ideal for children aged five to 11. Please check for times.

Adult £18.50; child £12. www.polkatheatre.com.

Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

SAINT JOAN © MADS PERCH

Gemma Arterton takes the lead in Saint Joan at the Donmar Warehouse (from 9 Dec). Author George Bernard Shaw’s tragedy premiered in 1923, and this adaptation is directed by Josie Rourke, the Donmar’s artistic director.

The story follows the trial of a young peasant, Joan of Arc, who was tortured and sentenced to life imprisonment in 1431 after claiming to have had visions of saints and angels. Joan chose to be burnt at the stake instead and, years later, was posthumously deemed a saint.

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SAINT JOAN © MADS PERCH

Baddies: The Musical is Back!

The Big Bad Wolf’s in trouble – he’s been ripped out of his story and thrown in jail for being too good at being bad. For ages two to six. Please check for times. Adult £18-£24; child £12-£18. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

BOING! This wonderful piece of dance-theatre captures the delirious excitement of two boys waiting for Father Christmas to arrive on the most magical night of the year. For ages two to six. Please check for times. Adult £18; child £12. www.unicorn theatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Disney on Ice presents Frozen 21-30 Dec: Join Anna as she searches for her

sister Elsa in this magical story on ice (p. 46), which is brought alive by special effects. You’ll be singing Let it Go all the way back to your hotel. Please check for times. Tickets £27-£53. www.theo2.co.uk.

The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Me...

From 8 Dec: A tale about a baby penguin finding her feet in the big wide world. Suitable for children aged two to six. Adult £12; child £10.

Check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com.

Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

The Snowman A perennial family favourite that blends dance, music, storytelling, spectacle and magic. As a friendship between a boy and his snowman is kindled, the two embark on a starry-skied adventure to the North Pole, where they meet dancing penguins, reindeer and Father Christmas.

Based on the book by Raymond Briggs. Check for times. Tickets £15-£36. www.sadlers wells.com. Peacock Theatre, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Cadogan Hall 3 Dec: The Rat Pack at Christmas. Expect festive

classics such as White Christmas and Baby It’s Cold Outside. 18 Dec: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra Christmas Cracker. Includes arrangements of Michael Bublé songs. 19 Dec: Maddy Prior and the Carnival Band. Folk music performed with a mix of Renaissance, modern and ethnic instruments.

Check for times and prices. www.cadoganhall.com.

5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500.

F6. Station: Sloane Square.

The Jazz Café This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 3 Dec: Adrian Sherwood. An evening with the founder of On-U Sound Records. Please check for times and prices. 5-7 Dec: Roy Ayers. Meet ‘The Godfather of Neo-Soul,’ who was instrumental in the inception of acid jazz and jazz funk. 11 Dec: Christmas with The House Gospel Choir. Expect a full-on live DJ set featuring percussion, horns and keyboards. 23-24 Dec: Incognito. From the group with 16 studio albums under their belt.

Please check for times and prices. www.thejazz cafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

CuriousOnStage.com Gielgud Theatre A DELFONT MACKINTOSH THEATRE

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ENTERTAINMENT The O2 arena Enormous venue for live music on the Greenwich Peninsula. 1 Dec: Pete Tong presents Ibiza Classics.

5-18 Dec: Red Hot Chili Peppers. 9 Dec: Richard Ashcroft. The former singer and guitarist of the alternative rock band The Verve. 10 Dec: Madness (p. 8). The English ska band are still going strong 40 years after they formed. 11 Dec: Status Quo. Rock. 17 Dec: Fatboy Slim. DJ on the decks. Check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202.

Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 5-7 & 12-14 Dec: Motown Christmas Revue: Natalie Williams Soul Family.

Hear all the greatest hits. 11 Dec: Celebrating Sinatra! With Iain MacKenzie and Swing City.

18 Dec: Ronnie Scott’s Blues Explosion! Co-led by pianist/vocalist Paddy Milner and the funk, blues and jazz guitarist Tony Remy. Check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Royal Albert Hall 9-10 Dec: A Kylie Christmas. Christmas classics and Kylie hits. 17-18 & 23-24 Dec: Carols by

Candlelight (p. 46). Seasonal classics performed by an orchestra wearing 18th-century costume.

18-19 Dec: Jingle Bell Christmas. The Jingle Belle Dancers join the London Concert Orchestra, Capital Voices and West End stars to perform Christmas hits. Check for times and prices. www.royalalbert hall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Cadogan Hall Classical events hall. 5 Dec: The Children’s Trust Christmas Concert. Celebrity readings, special guest conductor Nigel Hess, soprano Ana Maria Rincon and the Amici Ensemble. 6 Dec: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. Festive tunes from Handel’s Messiah and more. 17 Dec: The Snowman and We’re Going on a Bear Hunt. Screening of the classic films with a live score. 28 Dec: London Concertante.

The UK’s leading chamber orchestra celebrates its 25th anniversary. Check for times and prices. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Royal Albert Hall London’s premiere music hall and home to the annual BBC Proms. 17-18 & 23-24 Dec: Carols by Candlelight. Concert of carols and seasonal classics staged in an evocative candlelit-style setting. (p. 46).

28 Dec: E.T. The Extra-Terrestrial in Concert. Performed live and in full by the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212.

G4. South Kensington.

St James’s Piccadilly This delightful 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. www.smitf.org. St Martinin-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

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OPERA

YOU’LL FEEL THE EARTH MOVE!

London Coliseum Home to the English National Opera. Productions are sung in English. From 1 Dec: Tosca. Puccini’s classic opera about opera singer Tosca’s love for an artist. But when passion and politics collide, love proves to be a fatal weakness. 1 Dec 7.30pm; 3 Dec 6.30pm. Tickets £30-£125. www.eno.org.

33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House To 12 Dec: Manon Lescaut. Antonio Pappano conducts Sondra Radvanovsky and Aleksandrs Antonenko in the first revival of Jonathan Kent’s thought-provoking production of Puccini’s first operatic triumph. Please check for times. Tickets £9-£175. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

DANCE Royal Opera House The Royal Ballet Company’s home base.

To 12 Jan: The Nutcracker (p. 46). Tchaikovsky’s famous score is brought to life by The Royal Ballet in this delightful production. Please check for times. Tickets £32-£154. www.roh.org.uk.

Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sadler’s Wells

Visit BeautifulinLondon.co.uk Call 0845 200 7981

To 3 Dec: Out of Asia 2. A range of works by five

dance companies from China and Taiwan and four independent choreographers from China, Japan, Indonesia and India. Please check for times and prices. From 6 Dec: The Red Shoes.

Matthew Bourne’s production is based on the 1948 Powell and Pressburger film, which was in turn based on the tragic fairytale by Hans Christian Andersen. The Red Shoes tells the story of a talented young dancer who finds herself torn between love and her career, with heartbreaking consequences (p. 50). Please check for times. Tickets £12-£68. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Avenue, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000.

Off map. Station: Angel.

‘THE BEST WEST END MUSICAL FOR YEARS’ BBC RADIO 2

Southbank Centre From 16 Dec: Hong Kong Dance Company. Witness stunning moves from Hong Kong’s finest dancers in this free performance. 5pm. 27 Dec: Strictly Winter Ballroom. A special afternoon of dance dedicated to the work of Peggy Spencer MBE. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7928 3232. E8.

Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

FILM The Lounge at ODEON Whiteleys Watch the latest films in intimate screening rooms with comfortable leather seats, while dining on an exclusive menu from chef Rowley Leigh, with the food served directly to your seat.

Each table has an innovative layer of sound-proof material so that minimal noise is made when your food is delivered. Even the waiters’ uniforms and the plates are black to minimise the distraction from your film. Please check programme for films. www.odeon.co.uk/thelounge. Whiteleys of Bayswater, Queensway, W2 4YL. T: 0871-2244 007.

Off map. Station: Queensway.

THE STORY OF FRANKIE VALLI & THE FOUR SEASONS 0844 871 7630

Piccadilly Theatre

ALSO PLAYING SUNDAYS

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

Festive events

Main image: Southbank Centre Winter Market Below: Hyde Park Winter Wonderland

On the market Christmas in London has been increasingly inspired by German traditions, and once you’ve wandered through the capital’s mini-villages of pretty fairy-lit chalets, you wouldn’t have it any other way.

Hyde Park Winter Wonderland (to 2 Jan; p. 36), home to rides for all the family, also hosts one of London’s largest Christmas markets. Get there early, so you can navigate through the wooden huts filled with handmade gifts and confectionery.

One of the most beautiful markets you can visit is the Southbank Centre Winter Market

(to 8 Jan; p. 36), as nothing beats the backdrop of London’s skyline and being beside the River Thames. Here you’ll find chalets filled with clothes, food and handcrafted goods.

Christmas in Leicester Square (to 8 Jan; p. 12) sees the red carpet swapped for Christmas decorations – visit Santa’s grotto, see a show and warm up with a hot drink and global food.

Art lovers will enjoy the Tate Modern Christmas Market (to 24 Dec; p. 45), which sells picture frames, artwork and jewellery, while the Urban Makers East Christmas Market (10-11 Dec; www.urbanmakerseast. co.uk) has ceramics, artwork and origami workshops. If all that shopping makes you hungry, you can tuck into comfort food, from pork sliders to quiche.

More adventurous types should venture south to Brixton for its Crafty Fox Market (3-4 Dec; www.craftyfoxmarket.co.uk) at the Dogstar. The event supports independent designers who sell wonderful arts and crafts.

From bags and birdcages to cushions and mugs, you’ll find inventive designs that make unique gifts. Happy shopping!

MUSEUM OF LONDON POP UP Celebrate the best of Britain in the pop-up Christmas shop (to 23 Dec; above) at the Museum of London. Craft Central has teamed up with the museum to create exclusive Heart London prints, Suffragette-print accessories and Great Fire of London cushions.

150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN

CHRISTMAS COCKPIT STUDIOS As Cockpit Arts marks its 30th anniversary, it’s a great time to celebrate what the venue has to offer. During the Cockpit Arts Christmas Open Studios in Deptford (2-4 Dec), ceramics, textiles, glass and jewellery will be on sale.

Entrance is free on Friday; £3 at the weekend.

18-22 Creekside, SE8 3DZ

SUTTON HOUSE FAIR AND GROTTO Sutton House in Hackney decks its halls with boughs of holly during the Christmas Craft Fair and Santa’s Grotto (weekends to 18 Dec).

As you browse stalls of handmade gifts, carol singers will bring joy to your shopping trip.

2 & 4 Homerton High St, E9 6JQ

SOUTHBANK CENTRE WINTER MARKET © BELINDA LAWLEY; HYDE PARK WINTER WONDERLAND © JIM MARKS; PAPER BUS (£10) BY SATO HISA COURTESY OF MUSEUM OF LONDON POP UP

For one-off gifts which you will not find anywhere else, visit one of the capital’s many Christmas markets, says Kohinoor Sahota

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Tissot O X F O R DHouse of FraserJohn Lewis The Body G R E AT C A S T L E S T R E E T Gianmarco Lorenzi STR Shop EASTCASTLE ST U S EBosideng All Saints ST EET Massimo Clarks H&M Nike Town Browns Dutti Duke Street Zara MARKET PLA Hobbs CE Pronovias Swatch River Island Topshop Butler & Wilson Emporium Pandora Ernest Jones Ted Baker OXFO Boudi RD S United Colors of Benetton Gap Mephisto TREE Tezenis T PRINCES Thomas Sabo ST OXFORD T.M.Lewin Mango River Island Ted Baker CIRCUS Penhaligon’s Russell & Bromley Omega Karen Millen Tru Diamonds M&S BLinks R O OofKLondon Apple Store STREE Dune RAMILLIES PL Lacoste T Pomellato Armani Exchange Longchamp L.K.Bennett HANOVER S All Saints T Fenwick Victoria’s Secret Molton Brown H&M B R O O K Anya Hindmarch ’S MEW Banana Republic SMontblanc 7 For All Mankind D&G GROSVE Z Zegna Boss NOR SQ Emporio Armani COS Liberty Agent Provocateur Pal Zileri Hobbs Mulberry T GROSVE Desigual Canali NOR STR X STumi O F.Pinet EET D D Camper Gap M AD D OX S T Kipling MA Breitling Bally Vivienne The East India Ermenegildo Belstaff MOUNT Jaeger Clarks R O W Westwood Company G R O S V EIWC Zegna N O RSchaffhausen Juicy Couture HILL Vivienne Wempe Church's T Zilli Hamleys Coach Westwood E E T EE R T Fendi N S Links of London Watch Store Smythson MAN S T R Hackett MOUNT B O U R D OPolo Ralph Lauren ST T Gant Boss Hublot UI E A C Bromley Russell Kate Spade New York P L& Jimmy Choo INGTON PLACE ND TON LaliqueNEW BURL Bose BRU CO BROADWICK ST Levi’s Tory Burch Vivienne Westwood Lucie Reiss Temperley London Miu Miu Campbell Michael Kors Calvin Klein ET ET TON ST STRE Burberry NEW BURLING Hermès Guess TRE O R DTateossian CLIFF ON S T & U H Anthropologie J. Crew Michael Kors COAC S BR ET HORSE Massimo Dutti Watches of STRE YARD CHANEL BEAK Louis Vuitton Kenzo Paul Smith Switzerland T RD S Dior Brooks Brothers CLIFFO Karl Lagerfeld Boucheron G O L DE N Ice Bar Tommy Hilfiger Patek Philippe Swarovski TON ST Mappin & Webb Georg Jensen G R A FAsprey Adler Bulgari PL Chopard REGENT Harry Winston For a VIP shopping experience, visit T.M.Lewin S Q U A R E Bregeut Penhaligon’s Folli Follie Van Cleef & Arpels Burberry NEW CAVE River Island’s complimentary personal Cartier NDISH ST Zara Graff LL I EET H Boodles Y Mikimoto H&A Co & Hawkes Mango STR styling service for men and women.

ER Ralph LaurenG D N SGieves VIGO ST W E HAM YARD VILLAGE David Morris GTON Viyella B R Reiss The Style Studio is located in selected Salvatore B U R L I N Ferragamo GL Dover St Tiffany&Co Brummells AS BURLINGTON ARCADE SH Austin Reed stores, including the Marble Arch CHANEL Market of London Chatila O Superdry Charles UTyrwhitt QUEEN ANNE STREET SE DKNY ROYAL ARCADE ST Jo Malone Max Mara flagship. Whether it’s a wardrobe DENMAN Calleija ST Moss Bros.

UGG Australia RE Prada Hollister R E Rolex ET overhaul or seasonal update, the Coach ET Penhaligon’s Gap Leviev Hunter Omega service 30 minutes, an hour or Saint Laurent W I G M Otakes Wolford RE STREET Daks Barbour Gucci two hours. The experience comes The Highlands La Perla Whittard of Chelsea Marina Rinaldi Dolce & Gabbana with complimentary bubbles, too!

Kiehls PICCADILLY Vertu Alexander McQueen CIRCUS GREEN PARK Barbour 473 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. Cartier Tod’s (100yards) International Y L L De Beers T: 0344-334 0506.

Mappin & Webb PICCADI H E N R I E T TA P Fortnum LACE Tumi www.riverisland.com/stylestudio & Mason Osprey London Hawes Cath Kidston Bates Hatters & Curtis Alfred EET Links of RLondon Dunhill J E R M Y N S T Emmett Jones Bootmaker Paxton & Whitfield T.M.Lewin Accessorise your look this holiday Church’s Hackett Longmire season with elegant statement Thomas Pink BOND STREET

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rings, pendant necklaces and stunning earrings featuring beautiful shards of ice blue crystal, opalescent white and moonlight blue cut stones.

465 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 020-7495 0450. www.pandora.net

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE WHERE PASS LONDON, VISIT WHEREPASSLONDON.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most shops are open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, Sun 11am-4pm. Please check for Christmas opening hours. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

MAJOR STORES

John Lewis

Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Please check for opening times. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall.

Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Find covetable fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted department store. Please check for opening times. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village

One of the world’s biggest toy shops. Please check for opening times. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

PASS PARTNER Discount designer clothes in Oxfordshire. Check for opening times. www.bicestervillage.com.

Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

Liberty

Westfield London

The epitome of heritage combined with cuttingedge design. Please check for opening times. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

PASS PARTNER Huge mall with more than 300 shops. Check for opening times. www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Hamleys

House of Fraser Find fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods in this much-trusted store. Check for opening times. www.houseoffraser.com.

318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752.

D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

@NickStoreLondon #NICKSTORELONDON

Westfield Stratford City PASS PARTNER Europe’s largest shopping centre. Check for times. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Off map. Station: Stratford.

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JEWELLERY & WATCHES Pandora Jewellery, including charm bracelets. Check for times. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Wempe Big selection of luxury jewellery and watches.

Check for opening times. www.wempe.com.

43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299.

E6. Station: Bond Street.

SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Souvenirs. Check for opening times. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

Nickelodeon Products inspired by the channel’s TV shows.

Includes London-inspired toys, such as stuffed toy guards. Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Twinings Find wonderful teas and infusions. Check for opening times. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

purchases over £35.

Valid until 31st December 2016.

To redeem, bring this coupon into the store NICKELODEON STORE or use promo code on-line:GIFT LONDON Visit us in-store at Leicester Square OR on-line at www.nickelodeonSTORE.co.uk tions. © 2016 Viacom International Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Limit one per person, per visit. Cannot be combined with other coupons or discounts. May not be redeemed any other retail locations.

SpongeBob SquarePants created by Stephen Hillenburg. © 2016 Spin Master. All Rights Reserved.

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SHOPPING HYDE PARK CORNER (0.3miles)

Rolex By The Watch Gallery UGG Mari Vanna GE R I DHarvey Nichols B Burberry S

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Famous for its scented candles, the British brand Jo Malone has launched a rare tea collection with six unique scents ranging from Darjeeling to Oolong tea, which you can find in its Chelsea shop.

‘Through an infusion process we used actual rare teas in each of the fragrances, a first in perfumery,’ says Serge Majoullier, Master Perfumer, on Rare Teas.

150 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9BX. T: 0370-192 5121. www.jomalone.co.uk

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Red soles at the bottom of the shoes can only mean one thing: Christian Louboutin. The French designer’s shoes S DN have graced the feet of Kylie Minogue, L G L E CROMW Kate Moss and Emma Watson.

Live out your footwear fantasies at this shop, which sells shoes and leather goods.

23 Motcomb St, SW1X 8LB. T: 0843-227 4322. www.eu.christianlouboutin.com

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Introducing

G O . S E E . D O . LONDON

Illustration © Shutterstock/ Lisa Kolbasa

The best of London in one card Use across public transport Tickets and offers for the city’s top attractions Manage your travel money The Where® Pass is London’s new traveller’s ticket allowing visitors to experience top attractions with integrated discounts and transport. Incorporating contactless debit card technology and an interactive digital platform, visiting London has never been more convenient.

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WHERE PASS1AD.indd 1 1 WL PASS FILLER PAGE.indd

14/11/2016 11/11/2016 11:16 16:11

DINING | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this image: Picture Fitzrovia; The Providores; London Steakhouse Co.

Christmas Day dinners

Festive feasts It’s starting to feel a lot like Christmas, everywhere you… eat! From traditional turkey to more modern fare, we’ve selected the best spots to eat, drink and be merry.

On the iconic King’s Road in Chelsea, the oh-so-stylish London Steakhouse Co. from celebrity chef Marco Pierre White is the ideal place to break up your Christmas shopping.

Choose from two festive menus (from £35; to 24 Dec), featuring traditional favourites such as Scottish smoked salmon and crème fraîche blinis, roast Holly Farm turkey breast with chestnut stuffing and plum pudding with brandy custard (386 King’s Rd, SW3 5UZ ).

‘Too much of a good thing is a good thing,’ says Balans Soho Society and it’s hard not to agree with its joyous dishes such as truffled chicken liver parfait, roast Norfolk turkey and clementine cheesecake (to 24 Dec; from £30) on the seasonal menu. Christmas Day offerings include twice-baked soufflé and Christmas pud, naturally (from £70; 60-62 Old Compton St, W1D 4UG ).

Harry Potter fans will recognise Leadenhall Market as Diagon Alley from the film franchise.

Managed by the City since 1411, this beautiful covered market with a spectacular Victorian roof houses Chamberlain’s, one of the best places for fish and seafood in the capital.

Festive highlights range from crab salad to half-lobster Thermidor, plus Christmas pudding with brandy sauce (28 Nov-23 Dec; from £43.50; 23-25 Leadenhall Market, EC3V 1LR ).

You can tell from the elegant presentation and ingenious flavours at Picture Fitzrovia that the owners have a background in Michelinstarred restaurants. Try the six-course seasonal tasting menu that won’t break the bank: think winter vegetable velouté, grilled sea bass fillet and ravioli of mushroom and chestnut for just £40 (110 Great Portland St, W1W 6PQ ).

If turkey’s not your thing, dive mouth first into Antipodean fusion food at The Providores in beautiful Marylebone. Starters of pheasant terrine or baked mackerel pave the way for showstoppers such as duck breast with orange cinnamon-spiced polenta, or pan-fried fish with pumpkin, on the Christmas lunch menu (from £38; to 23 Dec; 109 Marylebone High St, W1U 4RX ). Happy Christmas!

GRAZING GOAT ‘A home away from home’ is the best way to describe this gastropub-cum-hotel (above).

Begin with NV Billecart-Salmon, Brut Réserve Champagne before feasting on pigeon breast with hay-baked celeriac, beetrootcured salmon and roasted Goosnargh turkey.

6 New Quebec St, W1H 7RQ

BAR BOULUD The French know how to celebrate, don’t they? Set in Knightsbridge, this modern bistro is the ultimate indulgence: try house-smoked salmon, seared foie gras, white truffle risotto – and they’re just the starters! Turkey comes in the serious-sounding ‘dégustation de dinde’, but don’t expect a pudding, not when there’s desserts such as chocolate bahibe crémeux.

66 Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, SW1X 7LA

THE CINNAMON CLUB Christmas is given an Indian twist at this restaurant set within the Grade II-listed former Westminster Library. Think South Indian-spiced goose breast with red onion and curry leaf. A spice-free option is available.

30-32 Great Smith St, SW1P 3BU

PICTURE FITZROVIA COURTESY OF PICTURE FITZROVIA; THE PROVIDORES COURTESY OF THE PROVIDORES; LONDON STEAKHOUSE CO. COURTESY OF LONDON STEAKHOUSE CO.; GRAZING GOAT COURTESY OF GRAZING GOAT

Celebrate Christmas Day with a visit to one of the capital’s great restaurants that are serving a traditional lunch with all the trimmings, says Sam Rogg

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE WHERE PASS LONDON, VISIT WHEREPASSLONDON.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch) D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 80-81). Check for Christmas times

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) The Colony Grill Room The wood-panelled dining room inside The Beaumont evokes 1920s America with old-world US grill fare. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.colonygrill room.com. The Beaumont, 8 Balderton St, W1K 6TN. T: 020-7499 9499. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint is stuffed full of rock memorabilia. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Heliot Steak House Steak house at the Hippodrome Casino. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodromecasino.com. Hippodrome Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Oblix Rise up to the 32nd floor of London landmark The Shard for ultra-sophisticated New York-style grill cuisine and amazing views. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day diner in a mock rainforest setting (p. 12). ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therain forestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rileys Sports Bar This sports bar serves steak, burgers and an all-day breakfast. There are 34 screens, table football, ping pong and darts. £. Mon-Sun B, L & D. www.rileyssportsbars.co.uk. 80 Haymarket, SW1Y 4TE. T: 020-79300 393. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

STK London Dine in the ME London hotel’s steakhouse on British and American prime steaks. ££££. Daily from 5pm. www.stkhouse.com. ME Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

JW Steakhouse Steakhouse serving dry-aged American USDA prime beef. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteak house.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

BRITISH (MODERN)

Planet Hollywood

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

Huge London outlet of the international chain. ££. Daily L & D (the bar is open until 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Experience the first London restaurant from this superchef, with a menu influenced by historic British gastronomy. ££££. Daily L & D; booking essential. www.dinnerbyheston.com. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Fera at Claridge’s Chef Simon Rogan serves food made with organic ingredients. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk/fera. Claridge’s Hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Garfunkel’s Popular British dishes, plus pizzas, pasta, wraps and a salad bar. Many West End and central locations. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.garfunkels.co.uk. 19 Irving St, WC2H 7AU (and branches). T: 020-7930 8087.

E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org.

British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Russell Square.

Holborn Dining Room Smart brasserie serving classic British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborn diningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

St Pancras Grand Brasserie located in St Pancras Station. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St. Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Café in the Crypt Underneath this landmark Palladian church, this café serves great English food at great prices. £.

Mon-Sat B; daily L. www.smitf.org. St Martin-inthe-Fields, corner of Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Stunning venue includes a brasserie, private dining room, lounge, cocktail bar and an art gallery. £££.

Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsofmayfair.com.

10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Park Terrace Located in the Royal Garden Hotel London. ££££.

Daily B, L & D. www.parkterracerestaurant.co.uk.

2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7937 8000.

Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The Ritz Restaurant Perhaps London’s prettiest dining room. Men must wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.the ritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Rules

Beautiful Basque ENEKO © THE GAZTRONOME

STEAKHOUSE CO. COURTESY OF LONDON STEAKHOUSE CO.; GRAZING GOAT COURTESY OF GRAZING GOAT

Mews of Mayfair

It’s no secret that London attracts top chefs who are eager to take a bite out of the capital’s dining scene. Named after Eneko Atxa, whose three Michelin-starred Azurmendi in Spain is ranked No 16 in The World’s Top 50 Restaurants, Eneko at One Aldwych is an unpretentious take on rustic Basque cuisine. Begin with Memories of the Bay of Biscay – an artistic platter of oyster, crab and wild prawn tartare served over dry ice which ripples with smoke that smells like the sea. Mains of grilled salmon with durum-wheat crust and roasted Iberico pork with garlic cream are elegantly presented and satisfying. Try a wine created by Atxa and his uncle. Welcome to London, Eneko!

One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0300. www.eneko.london. D8. Station: Temple

Long-established restaurant where Charles Dickens ate. ££££. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon10.30pm. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar Bar-restaurant in Theatreland. £££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB (and Chelsea branch). T: 020-7836 8836. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Wolseley The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie. Daily, from 7am. £££. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park. www.wheretraveler.com 63

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DINING

For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist

Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester

Bright Courtyard Club Cantonese and Shanghai dishes in a sophisticated setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.brightcourtyard. co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998.

D6. Station: Baker Street.

Chai Wu Located in Harrods. Feast on luxury food such as Wagyu beef and sea bass. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Min Jiang Superb Sichuan cuisine. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. F3.

Station: High Street Kensington.

Royal China Club This huge Cantonese restaurant is especially popular for its dim sum. ££. www.royalchinagroup. co.uk. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches).

T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.

FLEMINGS MAYFAIR Celebrated chef Shaun Rankin sprinkles his Michelin-starred magic on to a new afternoon tea (above). Served daily in the refurbished Drawing Room, delectable treats are paired with either the finest tea leaves from specialist The East India Company or a glass of ‘Cuvée D’, Devaux, Aube Champagne. Indulge in sandwiches of coronation chicken, smoked salmon, and egg mayonnaise in a brioche bun. Petits fours include opera cake finished with a mini coffee macaron; a soft, light pavlova with cream and exotic fresh fruit; and a moreish Paris-Brest with smooth hazelnut crème.

Half Moon St, W1J 7BH

SKETCH Escape the hustle and bustle of Oxford Street inside artistic wonderland Sketch and enjoy a Night Before Christmas afternoon tea in the Gallery. The tea features the venue’s signature sandwiches, freshly baked scones, Christmas petit gateaux and a Bûche de Noël.

Regularly voted one of the capital’s top dining destinations, this opulent venue’s pink dining room has to be seen to be believed. Expect gourmet ingredients such as caviar and quail egg, and star anise-grilled aubergine. Pair yours with a glass of English bubbles made in Sussex and, if you’re lucky, you might even be serenaded by London choralists.

9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG

LORD’S Love cricket? Then head to the iconic Lord’s Cricket Ground for a festive afternoon tea in its famous Long Room overlooking the grounds. You’ll feast on a traditional spread with all the trimmings, including delicate sandwiches, freshly baked scones with homemade jams and Cornish clotted cream, plus pastries and pots of tea. You’ll be able to visit the Lord’s shop and museum before arriving for your afternoon tea, but be sure to look the part. A formal dress code applies here, so men are expected to wear a jacket and tie – no jeans or trainers are permitted for ladies or gents.

St John’s Wood Rd, NW8 8QN

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN Gutsy, modern cooking. Brasserie £££; Restaurant ££££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L. www.1lombard street.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred restaurant serving haute cuisine. Booking essential; smart dress. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinat windows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Ivy One of London’s great restaurants and a celeb favourite. £££-££££. Daily L & D. Last orders at midnight. www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

SixtyOne

A combination of a Parisian salon and a Provençal bistro. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.aubaine.co.uk.

260-262 Brompton Rd, SW3 2AS (and branches).

T: 020-7052 0100. F5. Station: South Kensington.

Brasserie Joël Serves classics such as tuna tartare. ££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; Daily D. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk.

Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 0207620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Celeste Dazzling French-inspired cuisine in an elegant dining room at The Lanesborough hotel. £££££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com.

The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Romantic dining room with a great wine list, featuring more than 2,300 bins. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Club Gascon Michelin-starred French cuisine and an awardwinning wine list. £££-££££. Tue-Fri L; Mon-Sat D. www.clubgascon.com. 57 West Smithfield, EC1A 9DS. T: 020-7600 6144. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Galvin Bistrot de Luxe The highly regarded Galvin brothers’ classic Parisian-style bistro. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvinrestaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.

GASTROPUBS The Eagle One of London’s first gastropubs. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.theeaglefarringdon.co.uk.

159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL. T: 0207837 1353. D9. Station: Farringdon.

A sophisticated restaurant serving great food with bold flavours. Tue-Sat L & D. £££. www.sixtyonerestaurant.co.uk.

61 Upper Berkeley St, W1H 7PP. T: 0207958 3222. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Located on level 35 of The Shard, this restaurant serves European dishes with an Asian influence. Daily B, L & D. ££££. www.shangri-la.com/ london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000.

F10. Station: London Bridge.

Aubaine

Clos Maggiore

1 Lombard Street

Ting

Exquisite food from this Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Thomas Cubitt The Ivy is a theatrical institution, and has served famous faces from Marlene Dietrich to John Gielgud

FISH AND SEAFOOD J Sheekey Chic fish restaurant that’s popular with celebrities. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8.

Station: Covent Garden.

Poppie’s Try delicious fish dishes, including a seafood platter, plaice fillets and homemade fish cakes (p. 66). £. Daily L & D. www.poppies.com. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Classic dining room serving top-quality British food. £££. Daily L & D. www.thethomascubitt.co.uk.

44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 0207730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.

INDIAN Amaya Karunesh Khanna’s Michelin-starred food is cooked in the dramatic show kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. 19 Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Chor Bizarre North Indian cuisine. £££. Mon-Sat L; daily D. www.chorbizarre.com. 16 Albermarle St, W1S 4HW. T: 020-7629 9802. E7. Station: Green Park.

Chutney Mary A gourmet tour of seven different Indian regions. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutney mary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF FLEMINGS MAYFAIR

Time for tea

FRENCH

CHINESE

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DINING Gaylord This restaurant is famed for its award-winning Mughlai-based food. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylord london.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 0207580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Khan’s of Kensington Great vegetarian dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.khans ofkensington.co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. G4. Station: South Kensington.

La Porte des Indes Indian cuisine with a Gallic twist, inspired by the Pondicherry region. £££. Daily L & D. www.la portedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Little India This cosy establishment specialises in dishes from Bengal. ££. Daily L & D. www.littleindia london.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 0207584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Masala Grill A relaxed space offering grills, seafood, street food and curries. ££. Daily L & D; Sun L & D. www.masala grill.co. 535 King’s Rd, SW10 0SZ. T: 020-7351 3113.

Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Masala Zone Great informal dining. £. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Memories of India Authentic North Indian flavours. ££. Daily L & D. www.memoriesofindia.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Chip off the old block Not just any old fish ‘n’ chip shop, Poppie’s (p. 64) takes one of Britain’s best-loved dishes to a new level. Opened by Pat ‘Pop’ Newland, who has worked in the fish ‘n’ chip trade since he was 11 years old, Poppie’s is a refreshingly funky take on the iconic ‘chippy’ and a welcome addition to Soho. Sit at the counter for a quick bite or in the lively 1970s-style main dining area (perfect for large groups) as classic disco tunes fill the air. Try the crispy whitebait and hand-peeled prawn cocktail to start, followed by traditional battered haddock and fat chips with British favourite, homemade mushy peas. For dessert we recommend the caramel sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream – another one of Britain’s best.

Mint Leaf

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

INTERNATIONAL SushiSamba Japanese and Brazilian mix. £££.

Daily L & D. www.sushisamba.com. 38th floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 020-3640 7330. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

ITALIAN Bella Italia Great selection of pizzas, lasagne and pasta. ££. Daily B, L & D (and branches). www.bellaitalia.co.uk.

100 Baker St, W1U 6WG. T: 020-3058 3458. D6. Station: Baker Street.

JAPANESE & KOREAN Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk.

37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches).

T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Drift down the River Thames admiring the sights while enjoying a four-course dinner. Nightly £80 per person; advance booking essential. Departs Westminster Pier 7.30pm. www.citycruises.com.

Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400.

F8. Station: Westminster.

Engawa

RS Hispaniola

Choose from three, five and eight-course tasting menus at this small but excellent sushi spot. £££.

Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames serving delicious modern European cuisine. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk.

Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

Benihana

Matsuri Specialises in sushi and teppanyaki. £££.

Daily L & D. www.matsuri-restaurant.com.

15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E7. Station: Green Park.

Traditional East End favourites are pie and mash, and jellied eels with parsley liquor

Rossopomodoro Authentic pizza and pasta. £. Daily L & D. www.rosso pomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX. T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Verdi Casual dining and authentic flavours of Italy. ££. Daily L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4.

Station: South Kensington.

London Showboat

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Yasmeen

Authentic dishes influenced by Syria and Lebanon. There is a kid’s menu too. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com.

1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921.

Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

RIVERSIDE Bateaux London See London’s sights on a river cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. Evening cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

SOUTH EAST ASIA Chi Kitchen Find a great selection of excellent pan-Asian cuisine on the ground floor of department store Debenhams. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen. co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

House of Ho This four-storey townhouse serves exceptional Vietnamese cuisine. Try the wagyu short rib hot and cold pho. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.houseof ho.co.uk. 1 Percy St, W1T 1DB. T: 020-7323 9130.

D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Mango Tree This elegant award-winning restaurant serves classic Thai dishes. Try the sea bass wrapped in banana leaf – it’s delicious. Check for regular events. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree. org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 0207823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

POPPIE’S © GEORGIA GLYNN SMITH

Contemporary dishes are the trademark of this stylish venue. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mint leafgroup.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting.

Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: amaya@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food.

Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.

Saturday Brunch with live jazz music.

73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: chutneymary@realindianfood.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: veeraswamy@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING Thai Pot This popular spot has truly fantastic food and stylish décor. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz.

1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SPANISH

A tasty slice of history in Trafalgar Square Discover the award-winning Café in the Crypt underneath St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square.

Open daily with special offers including traditional English breakfast, afternoon tea and pre-concert and pre-theatre lunch and dinner. Concerts and services run throughout the week in the church upstairs including free lunchtime concerts on Monday, Tuesday and Friday at 1.00pm

Read our reviews on

El Pirata This busy tapas bar-restaurant in Mayfair serves excellent hot and cold dishes. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Iberica Victoria Traditional dishes are given a modern twist on a menu created by award-winning chef Nacho Manzano. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarest aurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Moro North Africa meets Spain in this highly regarded Moorish restaurant serving dishes such as duck fattee with chickpea pilaf. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

www.smitf.org

Lost in spice An intriguing new restaurant has opened in the heart of Earl’s Court. Flora Indica offers tantalising British cuisine with an Indian influence and a unique botanical twist. Delicate flavours in dishes such as smoked venison with masala potatoes, along with an impressive list of cocktails, make this a voyage of discovery for your tastebuds. We love the eclectic décor: a mix of Victorian decadence and steampunk. Don’t miss the gin bar, too.

242 Old Brompton Rd, SW5 0DE. T: 0207370 4450. www.flora-indica.com.

Off map. Station: Earl’s Court.

VEGETARIAN Good-value Italian eatery that uses organic ingredients from the owner’s farm in Italy. £-££.

Daily L & D. www.amicobio.co.uk. 44 Cloth Fair, EC1A 7JQ. T: 020-7600 7778. D9. Station: Barbican.

Tibits Enjoy delicious dishes, buffet style, at this relaxed restaurant-bar. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibit s.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

FLORA INDICA © TONY HARRIS

Amico Bio

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FLORA INDICA © TONY HARRIS

ENJOY THE THALI AT

REAL INDIAN FOOD SPECIAL DEALS AT LUNCH

HOLLYWOOD INSPIRED DINING IN THE HEART OF LONDON

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

MASA LA ZO N E .CO M

APPETISERS • STEAKS • RIBS FA J I TA S • B U R G E R S • F I S H PA S TA S • P I Z Z A S • A S I A N SALADS•SANDWICHES D E S S E R T S • C O C K TA I L S

RESTAURANT OPEN ‘TIL MIDNIGHT (11PM SUN) BAR OPEN ‘TIL 1AM (MIDNIGHT SUN)

20% OFF

FOOD/SOFT DRINKS/MERCHANDISE Not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Payment by cash or debit/credit card only. Discount applies to a la carte menu (excluding kids’ menu). Valid daily (except 5pm to 9pm Saturday) until 30/12/16. Not valid 25/12/16. Subject to availability.

1 voucher per table maximum 8 persons. Code WHERE. Please show this advert to your server before ordering.

S AVO UR THE AU THENTIC FL AVOURS OF INDIA

Experience Indian food as it’s meant to be at Masala Grill.

With our expertly cooked regional dishes and richly decorated restaurant, a visit to Masala Grill (in the former home of Chutney Mary) is a feast for all the senses.

We’re open every evening for dinner and on Sundays for our famous buffet lunch.

Rediscover your passion for Indian food at Masala Grill.

535 KINGS ROAD LONDON SW10 0SZ 020 7351 7788 | MASALAGRILL.CO | RESERVATIONS@MASALAGRILL.CO

TO BOOK PLEASE CALL

020 7287 1000 planethollywoodlondon.com

57-60 HAYMARKET LONDON SW1Y 4QX

TUBE: PICCADILLY CIRCUS OR LEICESTER SQ

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W H E R E

L O N D O N

P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING Chi Kitchen Contemporary pan-Asian restaurant Chi Kitchen opened last year on the ground floor of Debenhams on Oxford Street. The word ‘chi’, in Chinese, means energy, and the restaurant strives to offer good energy, as well as great food, to hungry shoppers. The open-plan restaurant lets you watch the chefs prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. Chi Kitchen will take you on a unique culinary journey through south east Asia.

Mention ‘Where London’ when you book to enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal at Chi Kitchen.

Mon-Sat 7.30am-11pm (last orders 10.15pm), Sun 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9.15pm).

Mango Tree

Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk.

Station: Oxford Circus

Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish environment. Its innovative yet classic cuisine is made from the finest ingredients. Enjoy genuine Thai dishes from the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild, Chinese-style dishes from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south.

Mention ‘Where London’ when booking, and enjoy a free glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal.

Monday-Wed noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun noon-10.30pm.

46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ (also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL). T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria

Khans of Kensington Visit Khans of Kensington for delicious, genuine Indian cuisine which a core of devotees have been enjoying for many years.

The restaurant prides itself on its modern take on traditional North Indian cuisine, with mouthwatering dishes such as its famous fish koliwada and lamb chop in honey sauce. The expansive menu covers many dishes, but if you don’t see your personal favourite on the menu, just ask the team of expert chefs and they will be more than happy to set that right. The restaurant is just a minute’s walk from South Kensington tube station.

Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm.

Memories of India

3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. www.khansofkensington.co.uk.

Station: South Kensington

At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have a private room for parties and corporate functions.

Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm.

18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734. www.memoriesofindia.com.

Station: Gloucester Road.

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BEST OF LONDON DINING Chai Wu Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the Fifth Floor of the iconic department store, Harrods, in Knightsbridge.

The restaurant design incorporates the five elements of Chinese philosophy: wood, metal, water, earth and fire, creating an elegant, opulent and welcoming dining setting.

The tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as black truffle sour soup and Chilean sea bass dumpling with gold leaf, as well as luxurious dishes including Beijing duck and wagyu steak.

Mon-Sat noon-9pm (last orders 8.30pm), Sun noon-6pm (last orders 5.15pm)

El Pirata

5th Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

You don’t need to fly to Spain to experience an authentic Spanish Christmas. For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas and this winter you can enjoy festive set menus for lunch (from £21.50) and dinner (from £27.95), available for groups of 6 or more (1-23 Dec).

Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean at Christmas time. Informal, inexpensive and above all, authentic – celebrity fans include Johnny Depp, and critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat).

Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk.

Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Little India One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a lady. Why not come and try our signature dish ‘Naga Chicken’ – cooked in spices and a naga chilli and tossed dry, as well as this we pride ourselves in traditional home style cooking. Come and enjoy a truly unique and memorable dining experience whilst indulging yourself in the real taste of fine Indian cuisine.

Open 7 days a week – Monday to Saturday, noon till 11.30pm and Sunday noon till 11pm. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended as Little India is really little! Perfectly located near The Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Kensington Palace and The Natural History Museum.

Chor Bizarre

32 Gloucester Road, London SW7 4RB Tel: 020 7584 3476/020 7589 9315 www.littleindialondon.com Station: Gloucester Road

Much-feted Chor Bizarre on Albemarle Street in Mayfair offers a distinctive ambience. Its fabulous interior has been given a makeover, with gorgeous furnishings sourced from bazaars in India. It’s not surprising that Chor Bizarre, the London branch of New Delhi’s eternal favourite, has been judged ‘One of the 50 most romantic places in the world’ and included ‘among the Top 10 Restaurants in London for Fun and Atmosphere’ by The Independent newspaper, as well as ‘The best North Indian Restaurant in the UK’ by The Cobra Good Curry Guide.

Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm.

16 Albemarle St, W1S 4HW T: 020-7629 9802 www.chorbizarre.com Station: Green Park

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: glögg at KuPP; Blue Bar; cocktails at Talli Joe

Winter warmers Gloves and scarves can only do so much to keep you cosy in winter – and, let’s be honest, sightseeing and shopping is thirsty work. London’s top bars and pubs are here to keep you toasty this festive season with winter tipples galore – they’re not all hot, but they’re guaranteed to warm you up inside.

No prizes for guessing what colour greets you at The Berkeley hotel’s recently renovated Blue Bar – one of the most sophisticated cocktail bars in the capital. The interior may be blue but the cocktail menu is a veritable rainbow of drinks categorised according to their hue. Try the Toffee & Bubbles for comforting hits of caramel and vanilla with salted toffee, hazelnut and Laurent-Perrier Champagne. Or opt for something richer like the Devil’s Cut, made with Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel, 30-year-old sherry, cassia bark and smoked chocolate bitters ( The Berkeley, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL ).

The floor-to-ceiling windows of KuPP, a Scandinavian restaurant and bar, make

the most of its view, as it’s right by the canal in Paddington Basin. When it’s chilly outside you can warm up with a hot toddy – spiced apple cider and whisky flavoured with lemon juice, honey and cinnamon. You can also try glögg (Scandinavian mulled wine), made with red berry wine flavoured with cinnamon sticks, cardamom, star anise, cloves, oranges, sultanas, ginger and almonds (5 Merchant Square, Paddington Basin, W2 1AS ).

Set in the heart of Covent Garden’s famous Piazza, Dirty Martini will break up your shopping spree with wintry wonders such as Christmas Cheer, a blend of Tanqueray gin, cherry liqueur, Luxardo Maraschino and pomegranate. You can also shake things up a bit with a Christmas cocktail masterclass (£30 per person), which includes delicious festive nibbles and a Christmas Bellini on arrival (36-37 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LJ ).

At Talli Joe in Soho, classic Christmas cocktails are given an Indian twist: try the Kapi Mulled Wine made with Indian spices

and South Indian filter coffee, or the Chai Nog made with whole milk spiced with cinnamon, cloves, vanilla, nutmeg and Bacardi 8 rum infused with masala tea.

(152-156 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8HL ).

What with its armchairs and glass cabinets, the Whisky Lounge in the Hilton London Metropole feels like a private member’s club although anyone can sip a wee dram under its whisky decanter light fittings. The menu features 70 whiskies, most of which are on display. Choose from whiskies ranging from the festive Whisky Seduction cocktail made with Jim Beam, red wine, blackcurrant liqueur and lemon juice, to the 18-year-old Glenlivet Founder’s Reserve Scotch, which has a lovely hint of toffee apples.

If you can’t decide, then opt for a whisky flight, which is made up of three 15ml whiskies. Better still, book a private tasting session; room hire for groups of 10-25 costs £85 per person (225 Edgware Rd, W2 1JU ).

Cheers to you all!

GLÖGG COURTESY OF KUPP; BLUE BAR © JAMIE MCGREGOR SMITH; TALLI JOE © TOM MOGGACH

The nights are long and there’s a chill in the air, so stay cosy with a winter tipple or two. From hot toddies to comforting cocktails and restorative whiskies, Sam Rogg picks out the best drinks to warm you up inside

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References in listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Check for Christmas closures

TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This splendid Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs. co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 0207236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Lord Byron and Percy Bysshe Shelley as past patrons. www.theflask highgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The George Inn This historic pub was established during the Medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Magpie & Stump This pub dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including Dick Turpin and novelist Charles Dickens. www.the spaniardshampstead.co.uk. Spaniard’s Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Scarfes Bar Elegant bar named after the cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, whose satirical illustrations hang around the room. www.scarfesbar.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. E7. Station: Holborn.

Searcys Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar. www.searcys champagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900.

C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

The Whisky Bar This specialist bar, at the beautiful Athenaeum hotel in Mayfair, has 270 different types of whisky. www.athenaeumhotel.com. 116 Piccadilly, W1J 7BJ. T: 020-7640 3333. E6. Station: Green Park.

CASINOS The Casino at the Empire There is a dedicated poker room as well as a contemporary Asian restaurant. www.thecasino lsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 0203733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Hippodrome Casino This landmark venue has gaming on three floors, plus the Heliot Steak House. www.hippodrome casino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. www.the sportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT Angels Gentlemen’s Club Soho Six show and cocktail stages plus Red Rooms, VIP booths and the Leopard Room where Peter Stringfellow’s ‘Angels’ dance at your table. The venue includes the Angel Bar and restaurant. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 201 Wardour St, W1F 8ZH. T: 020-7758 0670. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

London Cabaret Club Cabaret gets a modern twist at this unique club within the Bloomsbury Ballroom. Best of British Pop is packed with chart-toppers from the 1960s to the present day, fusing dance, acrobatics and theatre on stage. Dinner and VIP tickets available.

Stick around after the show as a DJ takes over until 3am. www.thelondoncabaretclub.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 0207242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn.

Ronnie Scott’s The world-famous jazz venue opened in 1959 and has hosted top musicians including Prince, Curtis Mayfield, Nina Simone and Ella Fitzgerald.

There are acts every night. www.ronniescotts.co.uk.

47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellows Celebrities as well as the public have enjoyed ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables. Entry is free to Stringfellows if you are dining. www.stringfellows. co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

BARS & CLUBS Booking Office Bar A 95ft-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Brooklyn Bowl This music venue at The O2 arena boasts a 12-lane bowling alley. www.brooklynbowl.com. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-7412 8778.

Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

City Social Jason Atherton offers spectacular food and drink surrounded by breathtaking views of London. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703.

D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Freedom

Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is one of the highest Champagne bars in London. www.shangri-la.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890. www.gordons winebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 0207930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

Hey Mr DJ! Opened recently, HYDE Kensington is a bar and restaurant that features artworks by the daring British artist JJ Adams. Look out for James Bond playing cards and a piece portraying Kate Middleton with tattoo sleeves sitting on a throne with a lion beneath it. If you want to throw some shapes, a DJ spins tracks on a dance floor at the back from Wednesday to Saturday. The food and drinks are Asian-inspired, so expect cocktails flavoured with lemongrass, chilli, ginger, lychee and oolong syrup.

1-1a Kensington High St, W8 5NP. T: 020-7368 6677. www.hydekensington.co.uk.

Off map. Station: High Street Kensington

BAR COURTESY OF HYDE KENSINGTON

The gay-friendly spot attracts a trendy crowd. www.barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE This image and right: inside Urban Retreat Below: updo by stylist

Festive offerings

It’s party time!

Kohinoor Sahota shows you how to get the party started with a festive makeover at Harrods’ Urban Retreat For the ultimate makeover experience, book the Andrew Barton and Ruby Hammer Makeover. The appointment lasts for four hours (£1,200). Andrew will give you a full cut, colour, re-style and blow dry, then Ruby will apply your make-up and advise you on your skincare regime. The experience ends with a Champagne lunch at the Urban Retreat Café.

You can add some sparkle to your visit by attending one of Urban Retreat’s special evening events. Enjoy Champagne and canapés at the Christmas Shopping Evening (5 Dec; £30), during which each guest receives a complimentary express treatment, including a brow shape and manicure, as well as gift-wrapping. Mulled Wine and Champagne Evenings take place every Wednesday and Friday evenings – they’ll help you to get into the festive spirit. Plus, every customer who visits the salon during December will receive a voucher to return in the New Year. It’s a gift that keeps on giving.

For full listings, turn to p. 77

ESPA LIFE AT CORINTHIA Taking its inspiration from Swan Lake, ESPA Life at Corinthia offers packages: The White Swan (£290), En Pointe (£400) and Darling Odile – The Complete Black Swan (£480) packages. The Black Swan is the most luxurious package and includes a massage, facial, manicure and pedicure, blow dry and lunch in the Spa Lounge. Like a ballerina, you will find your inner balance.

Whitehall Place, SW1A 2BD

MANDARIN ORIENTAL On 14 December, all Mandarin Oriental spas across the world are hosting a Silent Night experience. The normal treatment menu is available, but after 5pm the volume will be literally turned down, with no talking and no music. ‘During this stressful time of the year, we want to create a space where people can press the pause button,’ says Jeremy McCarthy, group spa director for Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group. Promoting mindfulness, guests are encouraged to come alone or with a loved one.

66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA

URBAN RETREAT IMAGES COURTESY OF URBAN RETREAT; NAIL IMAGE © ISTOCK

‘Where are you off to tonight?’ is one of the first questions that staff at Harrods’ Urban Retreat will ask you when you go for a Festive Makeover (£125; three hours).

Depending on your occasion, the salon has a style to suit you. The looks on the treatment menu are called Cocktail, Dinner, Office Party and Club and the results range from the Club’s Studio 54-inspired look with glamorous, voluminous curls, to the Dinner’s classic chignon with a twist.

Created by salon creative director Andrew Barton and make-up salon creative director Ruby Hammer MBE, each makeover service includes a hair appointment and make-up application. The make-up artists offer their expertise from how to apply your products to advice on your skincare routine.

If you find yourself falling in love with the cosmetics they use on you, they are also available to purchase, such as the Laura Mercier Master Class Colour Essentials (£90) and the Eyeko Mascara Wardrobe (£75).

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URBAN RETREAT IMAGES COURTESY OF URBAN RETREAT; NAIL IMAGE © ISTOCK

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway.

References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 80-81). Check for Christmas times

SPAS Aveda Institute This salon covering three floors offers cuts, colour, blow-drying and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. Beauty and spa treatments available, and there’s a special barber. The Express Beauty Bar has treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Bamford Haybarn Spa Loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products including Oskia facials. There is also a rooftop pool and secret garden. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This members-only spa offers day passes for £25.

Swim in a 56ft pool, use the gym and visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are massages and a treatment room for people with disabilities. www.blueharbour spa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 0207300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.

Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit.

There is a VIP suite for couples. www.chuanspa.com.

The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 020-7973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. In The Penthouse, a private suite, you can share the experience with a guest while enjoying Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Mandarin Oriental A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Treatments include body wraps, scrubs, massages and facials, and there is also a menu for men. Facilities include a 17-metre pool and gym.

Book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park (p. 76). www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 0207235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Mandara Spa Spa with a luxury Asian touch. The décor has Mondrian paintings and Japanese Shoji screens.

Treatments include the Warm Bamboo Massage, which uses bamboo stalks. There is a double treatment room, gym and pool. www.mandara spa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. The pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery London’s men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to sports massage.

If you want to master a wet shave, you can book the Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a Gold Age-Defying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Spa Illuminata Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London by Condé Nast, this spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

AVENA MASSAGE by qualified female masseuse.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Urban Retreat at Harrods This is one of the few places that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include extensions, weaves, wig creation and cutting at the Wig Boudoir (p. 76). www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Ushvani

Late appointments available

This plush venue was voted the Best Day Spa by Tatler in 2012. The philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com.

31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

Geo F Trumper This traditional barber shop in Mayfair offers wet shaves, manicures and haircutting for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon is home to top stylists, and also renowned for its colour correction work.

The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

M T as ha sa i ge

Exhausted, Stressed, Jet-Lagged?

Then why not relax with a traditional therapeutic Thai massage? Jade is a licensed and qualified Thai masseuse whose personalised, high-quality treatment is sure to bring your mind and body back into balance. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel or at her Chelsea studio.

Tel: 07894 700669 De-stress, re-energising

MASSAGE

By qualified female masseuse.

DISCREET QUALITY SERVICE, OPEN LATE Please call to book an appointment at your hotel or home. Alternatively, we welcome customers at our Mayfair Studio.

Windle & Moodie This award-winning hair salon specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos to braids. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Tel: 07827 301 930 www.wheretraveler.com 77

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE

Delivered to you by

TICKET INFORMATION The Where Pass is a contactless payment debit card, which you can use to hop on and off the transport system. See wherepasslondon.com.

An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card.

It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London.

You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £3 fee and pre-load it with credit at visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London.

Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon.

Oyster cards offer a discount on Emirates Air Line and most river buses. See visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

!

GES e CIER CON ut for th o f Look er issue o wint oncierge the c sletter E new SERVIC R U O AT Y out now

GETTING AROUND

For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube)

AT YOUR SERVICE Where London is used by head concierges and their teams at 275 top hotels in the capital Tips from Conor McDowell, head concierge at Amba Hotel Charing Cross What kind of requests do you get from guests?

Most guests ask me what the best restaurants are, but I once had a lastminute request from a distressed mother who wanted a donkey for her son’s fifth birthday!

What do you recommend visitors do in a day?

Start the day with breakfast at Duck & Waffle, then take a Big Bus Tour. Jump off at the Tower of London for a Yeoman Warder tour, then have a pint at The Dickens Inn before ambling along to Borough Market for lunch.

Afterwards, take a river cruise to Westminster Pier and see the Houses of Parliament.

Ask your concierge to ensure the best seats in the house for a West End show.

guess that hidden below is one of the largest silver markets on earth! Ruby’s Bar & Lounge, a basement bar in Dalston, is another hidden gem. It serves the best cocktails in London in a romantic, unique setting.

What do you recommend for visitors with children?

The Science Museum and the Natural History Museum have so many interactive exhibits to keep children entertained while learning.

I’m also a fan of Hamleys toy store on Regent Street, where parents have just as much fun as their children!

What services would you recommend to guests?

AirPortr is a unique, timesaving delivery service which allows you to make the most of your last day in London and avoids the worry of getting your luggage to the airport. You can go out and head to the airport ‘bag-free’, where you can pick up your luggage.

Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX

Share some hidden gems.

The London Silver Vaults.

At street level you’d never

Clockwise from top left: Tower of London; Hamleys; Borough Market; Duck & Waffle Inset: Conor McDowell

tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs all night Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central and Northern (via Embankment) lines. The Piccadilly line is scheduled to run from 16 Dec. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a London bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard, UK-issued contactless payment card or the Where Pass. Visit tfl.gov.uk/buses. Single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map opposite. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight and Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half mins to 10 mins. Mon-Sat 5.30am-12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands.

Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.

Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras International (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, and southeast England.

Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England.

For times and tickets, visit nationalrail.co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950.

Eurostar uses St Pancras International.

Go to eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (or if you’re outside the UK, call T: 01233-617 575).

TOWER OF LONDON © VISIT BRITAIN; HAMLEYS © DAMIAN GRIFFITHS; BOROUGH MARKET © VISIT ENGLAND; DUCK & WAFFLE © MING TANG-EVANS; CONOR MCDOWELL COURTESY OF AMBA HOTEL CHARING CROSS

Where Pass, Oyster cards & Travelcards

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TOWER OF LONDON © VISIT BRITAIN; HAMLEYS © DAMIAN GRIFFITHS; BOROUGH MARKET © VISIT ENGLAND; DUCK & WAFFLE © MING TANG-EVANS; CONOR MCDOWELL COURTESY OF AMBA HOTEL CHARING CROSS

ESSENTIALS

Same day luggage delivery between London’s airports and London locations. Visit portr.com and quote ‘ESSENTIALS’ for 10% discount.

8

9

Chesham

7

Chalfont & Latimer

Watford Junction

Chorleywood Rickmansworth

Headstone Lane

Northwood Hills

Ruislip

Hillingdon

Ruislip Manor Ickenham

Kenton

Harrowon-the-Hill

Preston Road

Brent Cross Golders Green

South Kenton

South Harrow

Neasden

Wembley Park

North Wembley

South Ruislip Sudbury Hill

Harlesden

Kensal Rise

Queen’s Park

Kilburn Park Maida Vale

Perivale

Brondesbury

North Ealing East Acton

6 5 4 3

North Acton

Shepherd’s Bush Market

South Acton

Goldhawk Road

Acton Town

Northfields Chiswick Park Boston Manor

Hounslow East

Kew Gardens

Hounslow West

Heathrow Terminal 5

West Kensington

Earl’s Court

South Kensington

District Hammersmith & City Jubilee Metropolitan Northern Piccadilly

Monument

2

Embankment

Westminster

London Bridge

2

1

Pimlico

Parsons Green

Southwark

Imperial Wharf

All Saints

Borough Lambeth North

3

East Putney

Kennington

Wandsworth Road

Clapham Junction

Oval Stockwell

Victoria Waterloo & City DLR Emirates Air Line cable car (Special fares apply) London Overground TfL Rail London Trams District open at weekends and on some public holidays

2

3

Denmark Hill

Step-free access from street to platform

3

National Rail Tooting Bec

Riverboat services Airport

Tooting Broadway

Merton Park

Colliers Wood

Victoria Coach Station

London Overground

4

South Tottenham to Barking No service from early June 2016 until February 2017.

Gospel Oak to Barking No weekend service until February 2017.

No weekday service from late September 2016 until February 2017.

Morden

Morden Road

Phipps Bridge

Belgrave Walk

Mitcham

Mitcham Junction

Beddington Lane

Therapia Lane

Ampere Way

Waddon Marsh

Wandle Park

Royal Victoria

Custom House for ExCeL

Emirates Royal Docks

Prince Regent Royal Albert Beckton Park

Emirates Greenwich Peninsula

Pontoon Dock

Cyprus

London City Airport

Gallions Reach Beckton

King George V

Mudchute

Greenwich

New Cross

Deptford Bridge Elverson Road

3

Penge West

Norwood Junction

Avenue Road

4

Wellesley Road George Street

Beckenham Junction

Harrington Road Elmers End Arena

Special fares apply

Woodside

West Croydon

Church Street

4

Beckenham Road

Birkbeck

Sydenham

Centrale

Woolwich Arsenal

Lewisham

Forest Hill

5

Reeves Corner

Canning Town

Island Gardens

Crystal Palace

South Wimbledon

Emirates Air Line cable car

3

Star Lane

Crossharbour

Anerley

Balham

4

West Ham

East India

North Greenwich

Brockley

Brixton

Clapham South

East Ham Upton Park Plaistow

West Silvertown

Honor Oak Park

Clapham Common

Dundonald Road

Step-free access from street to train

5

Barking

South Quay

Peckham Rye

Clapham North

Interchange stations

Becontree Upney

Abbey Road

Bromleyby-Bow

Blackwall

Heron Quays

New Cross Gate

Elephant & Castle

Wimbledon Park

Pudding Mill Lane

Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich

Queens Road Peckham

Vauxhall

Southfields

Stratford

Poplar

Surrey Quays

6

Dagenham East

Canary Wharf

Canada Water

Bermondsey

Elm Park

Woodgrange Park

Forest Gate

West India Quay

Rotherhithe

Upminster Bridge Hornchurch

Maryland

2/3

Langdon Park

Wapping

Upminster

Seven Kings Ilford

Manor Park

Stratford High Street

Bow Church

Devons Road

River Thames

West Brompton

Fulham Broadway

Tower Gateway

Goodmayes

Wanstead Park

Bow Road

Westferry

Shadwell

Tower Hill

Fenchurch Street

Blackfriars

2

Stepney Green

2

Emerson Park

Chadwell Heath

Newbury Park

Gants Hill

Leytonstone

Hackney Wick

Mile End

Limehouse

Temple

Clapham High Street

Circle

Cannon Street

Aldgate

Waterloo

Wimbledon

Central

Bank St. Paul’s

Mansion House

Charing Cross

Bethnal Green

Whitechapel

Wanstead

Leyton

Putney Bridge

Heathrow Terminal 4

Bakerloo

1

Chancery Lane

Leicester Square

Aldgate East

Liverpool Street

Romford

Barkingside

Redbridge

Leytonstone High Road

Gidea Park

Hainault Fairlop

Snaresbrook

Dagenham Heathway

Cambridge Heath

Bethnal Green

Brentwood

Harold Wood

South Woodford

Stratford International

Homerton

Shoreditch High Street

Barbican

Holborn

St. James’s Park

Sloane Square

Hoxton Old Street

Russell Square Goodge Street

St. James Street

Clapton

Hackney Central

Canonbury

Farringdon

Piccadilly Circus

Victoria

Rectory Road

4 3

Walthamstow Central

Leyton Midland Road

London Fields

Moorgate

Knightsbridge Gloucester Road

Dalston Kingsland

Haggerston

Covent Garden

High Street Kensington

Blackhorse Road

Hackney Downs

Caledonian Road & Barnsbury

Angel

Green Park

Tottenham Hale

Dalston Junction

Tottenham Court Road

Lancaster Gate

Highbury & Islington

Wood Street

Stamford Hill Walthamstow Queen’s Road Stoke Newington

Finsbury Park

King’s Cross St. Pancras

Euston Square

Oxford Circus

Hyde Park Corner

Kensington (Olympia)

Richmond

Hatton Cross

Queensway

Barons Court

Turnham Stamford Ravenscourt Brook Park Green

Hounslow Central

Notting Hill Gate

Holland Park

Mornington Crescent

Regent’s Park

Bond Street

Marble Arch

Shepherd’s Bush

Hammersmith

Gunnersbury

Osterley

Heathrow Terminals 2 & 3

White City

Wood Lane

Acton Central

Ealing Common South Ealing

Bayswater

Camden Town

Warren Street

1

Westbourne Park

Latimer Road

Camden Road

Baker Great Portland Euston Street Street

Edgware Road

Ladbroke Grove

Arsenal

Kentish Town

Chalk Farm

St. John’s Wood

Warwick Avenue

Park Royal

2

Swiss Cottage

Marylebone

Edgware Road

Royal Oak

West Acton

Upper Holloway

Grange Hill

Shenfield

Chigwell Woodford

Bruce Grove South Tottenham

Seven Sisters

Holloway Road

Caledonian Road

Finchley Road

South Hampstead

Harringay Green Lanes

Manor House

Tufnell Park Kentish Town West

Roding Valley Highams Park

White Hart Lane

Wood Green

6

5

Buckhurst Hill

Edmonton Green

Turnpike Lane

Archway

Belsize Park

West Hampstead

Kilburn High Road Paddington

Hanger Lane

Ealing Broadway

Finchley Road & Frognal

Kilburn Brondesbury Park

Kensal Green Alperton Greenford

Highgate

Loughton Chingford

Silver Street

Crouch Hill

Gospel Oak

Hampstead Heath

Hampstead

Willesden Green

Stonebridge Park

Willesden Junction

Sudbury Town

Finchley Central East Finchley

Dollis Hill

Wembley Central

Northolt

Hendon Central

Kingsbury

Southgate Arnos Grove

West Finchley

Bounds Green

3

Colindale

Queensbury

Northwick Park

West Harrow

Mill Hill East

Burnt Oak

Canons Park

North Harrow

Rayners Lane

Ruislip Gardens

Stanmore

Harrow & Wealdstone

Pinner

Eastcote

Edgware

Turkey Street Southbury

Special fares apply

9

Epping Theydon Bois Debden

Oakwood

Woodside Park

4

Hatch End

Northwood

Theobalds Grove

Bush Hill Park

Cockfosters

Totteridge & Whetstone

Carpenders Park Moor Park

8 7

Cheshunt Enfield Town

High Barnet Bushey

Croxley

West Ruislip

Uxbridge

5

Watford High Street

Watford

Amersham

8 7 6

Special fares apply

Blackhorse Lane Addiscombe

Lebanon Road East Croydon

Sandilands

Lloyd Park Coombe Lane

Gravel Hill

Addington Village

Fieldway

King Henry’s Drive

New Addington

Services for these stations are subject to variation. Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details.

*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.

Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel

Taxis

Coaches

You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street.

Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs.

For more information, visit tfl.gov.uk.

London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234.

Victoria. tfl.gov.uk/coaches

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. enterprise.co.uk.

Congestion Charge There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14).

UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. cclondon.com.

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. tfl.gov.uk/legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bicycles for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London.

For details, visit tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 034-3222 6666.

Version J1 TfL 06.2016

Correct at time of going to print

River services tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 20 main piers.

Discounts on adult single fare with an Oyster, Visitor Oyster or contactless card. River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.

Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCel London). tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Accessible London Deaf and disabled travellers should visit DisabledGo at visitlondon.com/access and openbritain.net.

AirPortr (Luggage delivery service) PASS PARTNER Same-day luggage transfer between London’s airports and hotels – travel bag-free and make the most of your time here. Prices start at £15 for one bag plus £10 for each additional item (any size or weight). T: 020-3384 6677. portr.com.

Where Pass

The city of London is a magnificent place, bursting with things to see and do. The all-new Where Pass makes experiencing London convenient and hassle-free for travellers. Incorporating the latest in contactless debit card technology, users of the Where Pass are able to travel around using the public transport system, enjoy shopping and dining throughout the city, and gain discounted access into top attractions.

Immerse yourself in everything London has to offer with the Where Pass – visit www.wherepasslondon.com for details. www.wheretraveler.com 79

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WHERE NOW | JASON BYRNE

My London

COMEDIAN Jason Byrne is an Irish comedian.

He has been to the Edinburgh Fringe Festival numerous times, and was nominated for the Perrier Award. He is touring the country with his show Propped Up, which is coming to the Leicester Square Theatre What do you do when you wake up?

I’m an up and out person. When I go on tour, I bring my trainers so I can go running to look at new places. I run along the River Thames up to the Tower of London and through the parks. I’m such a tourist, even though I have been here many times over the past 20 years.

What museums and galleries do you like?

My favourite thing to do is visit museums and I love going to art galleries, too. I have spent hours in the Natural History Museum wandering around, just looking at stuff.

Old buildings, old streets – anything that’s old, that’s me. Tate Modern is fine, but I prefer the older galleries.

Do you have any favourite buildings?

When I first came to London, I couldn’t leave the Houses of Parliament. When I pass it on Westminster Bridge, I still think how amazing it is. Every nook and cranny of it is beautiful.

It’s a stunning-looking place. I think that Londoners just get used to it. When I first went to Buckingham Palace, I didn’t know you could get that close to it. I just thought ‘why is no one stopping me?’ and went right up to the gates.

Where do you like to shop?

I spend a lot of time in Camden Market even though I hate shopping! If I have to do it, though, I’ll always choose to go to a market. At least then I can browse old records or retro clothes like vintage leather jackets.

What are your favourite green spaces?

Parliament Hill is one of my most-loved places – the views are amazing.

What places in the city inspire you?

I love Piccadilly Circus and Regent Street.

It’s wonderful being there at night – I look up at the billboards and the people running around. When I look at the streets, I imagine what they were like centuries ago, when a horse and carriage was the mode of transport.

Is there a place that holds a special memory for you?

My first gig in London was at Greenwich’s Up the Creek. The gig was with Malcolm Hardee and I died! The venue had the world’s best ever hecklers.

How do you prefer to travel?

I love the London Underground. We don’t have one in Ireland. I hate taxis and hate travelling by car in London. Even when I fly into Heathrow, I get the Tube to where I am going. I get offered a car from the airport, but I say no as I don’t want to sit in traffic.

The Tube is so fast and you can’t get lost.

Would you do anything extravagant?

I would probably want to climb a building, or abseil down The Shard. I’m a very active person. I would love to climb down that thing! You’d see the whole of London and you would probably be nearly half-dead coming down.

Where would you go for tea?

That’s so English! I don’t know if I would stop for tea anywhere. You are asking an Irish man!

I like cool pubs.

Where would you go for a drink then?

There are so many little pubs I’ve been to, especially in Soho. Give me any old pub!

What do you do for entertainment?

I saw The Book of Mormon and it was brilliant because I like dark humour. Cabaret shows are up my street with the acrobats and burlesque.

I hate nightclubs – I never go to them. I don’t like fancy bars, either, as I hate posh places.

Where would you spend the night?

The best hotel I stayed at was The Savoy.

A guy greeted me at the door and said ‘hello, Mr Byrne’. When I was there, there was no receptionist and they checked me in at my room. If you’re looking for reception, you’re not used to this place! When a hotel is trying to be posh, I call them up on it.

Tell us about Propped Up. It’s full of props and has a lot of audience participation. It’s different each night.

1-4 Dec. Leicester Square Theatre, 6 Leicester Place, WC2H 7BX. T: 020-7734 2222. www.leicestersquaretheatre.com Clockwise from top left: Houses of Parliament; Jason Byrne; Camden Lock market; Piccadilly Circus; The Savoy hotel

HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT © ISTOCK; JASON BYRNE © ANDY HOLLINGSWORTH; CAMDEN LOCK MARKET © PETER FERENCZY; PICCADILLY CIRCUS © ISTOCK; THE SAVOY COURTESY OF THE SAVOY

JASON BYRNE

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