Where London February 2017 by Morris Media Network

London

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

DAVID HOCKNEY A portrait of Britain’s greatest living artist

FASHION WEEK

Pop-up shops, catwalk shows and style advice

PLUS

A rocking new music venue Stars take on Shakespeare Robots through the ages

Places for proposals, spas for two, gift ideas and romantic day trips

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ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

DINING

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Contents See more of London at wheretraveler.com/london

February

London

FEBRU A R Y 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

DAVID HOCKNEY A portrait of Britain’s greatest living artist

FASHION WEEK

Pop-up shops, catwalk shows and style advice

PLUS

A rocking new music venue Stars take on Shakespeare Robots through the ages

ON THE COVER

Places for proposals, spas for two, gift ideas and romantic day trips

CULTURE

ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

DINING

MAPS

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Get swept away by the magic of London this Valentine’s Day. Imagery © iStock

The Guide

20 SIGHTSEEING Planning to propose this month? Read our romantic round-up, which includes the London Eye and SEA LIFE London Aquarium.

38 ENTERTAINMENT We look at the shows that are shaking up Shakespeare, from an opera in English to a beautiful candlelit performance. 48 SHOPPING As London Fashion Week struts into town with the latest style trends, we show you how you can join in the fun.

Best of the month 14 A PORTRAIT OF THE ARTIST

6 WHERE NOW February’s big events, including Moulin Rouge at Secret Cinema; England competing in the Six Nations Rugby tournament and the Flamenco Festival, which shimmies its way to Sadler’s Wells.

We celebrate the rebellious and remarkable British artist, David Hockney.

18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Gift ideas for your loved one, from heartshaped chocolates to his and hers cups.

10 CITY ESCAPES Take a romantic break and head to one of the country’s great escapes, from the university city of Cambridge to the beautiful beaches of Whitstable.

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74 MY LONDON Food critic Jay Rayner shares his favourite spots in the capital.

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IN LONDON

ORCHIDS COURTESY OF ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW; HUMANOID ROBOT ‘CYGAN’ © DR PIERO FIORITO AND JERRY WALLACE; PORTRAIT OF AN ARTIST (POOL WITH TWO FIGURES) 1972 © DAVID HOCKNEY/PHOTO: ART GALLERY OF NEW SOUTH WALES/JENNI CARTER; MASALA ZONE © PETER KOCIHA PHOTOGRAPHY; CHOCOLATES COURTESY OF GODIVA

32 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Discover the history of robots as the Science Museum and the Horniman Museum have fascinating exhibitions about the evolution of technology.

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Download past and present issues from across the Where Network via Magzter’s app. Go to the app store.

Morris Visitor Publications is the largest global publisher of visitor magazines and operates in more than 80 cities, equating to 53 million copies in over 500,000 hotels across the world.

54 DINING Table for one? Take your pick from tapas to hot pots with our guide to the best places to dine solo. 64 NIGHTLIFE Ben Lovett from folk band Mumford & Sons opens Omeara, a new live music venue in London Bridge. 68 SPAS & SALONS Couples who relax together stay together – enjoy treatments for two at Rocco Forte, House of Elemis and Spa Illuminata. 70 ESSENTIALS Robert Shorter, head concierge at Royal Garden Hotel London, shares his tips on how to make the most of your trip. 72 MAPS A useful map of central London. w w w.where t r ave l e r. c o m 3

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Vol. No. 43 Issue No. 2 ISSN 0951 323X YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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WELCOME

Editor’s Letter

All you need is love It’s hard not to fall in love in London. When you are in the city, it can feel like you’re on the set of a romcom or a fairytale – ask director Richard Curtis, who can’t stop making romantic movies set in London, or the British public who cheered on Prince William and his bride when they got married in Westminster Abbey. So, if it’s proposal spots, romantic day trips or spas for two you’re after, we are bursting with ideas that will make sure you and your loved one are happy (p. 10). If you’re travelling alone, we have spared a thought – in fact, an entire article – for you with a round-up of the best places to dine solo, from Michelin-starred tapas to counter-top tables (p. 54). Whether it’s Pablo Picasso or Paul Nash, London is the place to be if you want to take in a blockbuster exhibition. This month we celebrate Britain’s greatest living artist, David Hockney, as a retrospective of his work comes to Tate Britain (p. 14). Please excuse us for a moment while we blow our own trumpet: Where London’s publisher, Morris Visitor Publications, was recently nominated for two awards at the PPA Independent Publisher Awards. It was fantastic to be recognised for all of our hard work. We hope you have a wonderful stay!

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

BRIDGE OF SIGHS IN CAMBRIDGE © ISTOCK

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: Where London

Take a trip to romantic Cambridge

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NOW February is flipping fantastic! There’s Pancake Day, Six Nations Rugby and a chance for you to celebrate Valentine’s Day while watching a romantic movie with Secret Cinema

SECRET CINEMA FROM 14 FEBRUARY

Secret Cinema’s slogan, ‘Tell No One’, attracted more than 100,000 people a year to its immersive events. It turned an east London warehouse into a futuristic Los Angeles complete with a nightclub and Chinese noodle bar to screen Blade Runner, and transformed Alexandra Palace into a desert for Lawrence of Arabia. This year, from Valentine’s Day, a corner of London will turn into Paris’ Moulin Rouge, as Baz Lurhmann’s musical of the same name is screened. Expect glitter, can-can girls and dancing. But, as it’s a secret, don’t tell anyone! www.secretcinema.org 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I F E B R UA R Y 2017

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SIX NATIONS RUGBY 4 & 26 FEBRUARY

It’s been almost a year-and-a-half since England hosted the 2015 Rugby World Cup. The team has a new head coach now: no-nonsense Aussie Eddie Jones. England threw off that World Cup disappointment and, a few months later, won the 2016 RBS Six Nations trophy, winning all of their five matches. Rugby fans will look with interest to see if England can retain the trophy for the 2017 RBS Six Nations. This month sees the first three rounds of the tournament, with Twickenham Stadium hosting England’s games against France (4 Feb) and Italy (26 Feb) – arguably the competition’s weakest nation. If you are attending England’s home games at Twickenham, make sure you take a behind-the-scenes Stadium Tour, which includes a peek inside the England dressing room, and a walk through the players’ tunnel. www.rbs6nations.com

FLAMENCO FESTIVAL 16-28 FEBRUARY

It might be deepest winter, but you can still capture that sun-kissed feeling at Sadler’s Wells’ annual Flamenco Festival, which celebrates the gypsy folk dance and guitar music for which southern Spain is known. Be wowed by fast footwork from Sara Baras and contemporary flamenco from Compañia Olga Pericet, or catch Belén Maya and Patricio Hidalgo performing a dance inspired by painting. You can also listen to the gypsy singer Esperanza Fernández and El Niño de Elche, whose songs are influenced by poetry. www.sadlerswells.com

GRIMALDI SERVICE 5 FEBRUARY

As you walk through east London this month, you may find lots of people clowning around. Clowns will gather in full costume, from painted faces to red noses, at All Saints Church in Haggerston from 3pm to pay tribute to the king of clowns, Joseph Grimaldi. The English actor, comedian and dancer became one of the most popular entertainers of the Regency era. The tradition began in 1946, and in 1967 clowns were given permission to attend in their costumes. After the service, clowns perform for the public. The event gets busy, so make sure you arrive early. www.visitlondon.com www.wheretraveler.com 7

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FEBRUARY

5 FEBRUARY

You have to be made of strong stuff to race in the frosty air for the London Winter Run. This 10k run, which is in aid of Cancer Research, takes place through central London and passes iconic landmarks such as St Paul’s Cathedral and Whitehall. Participants and spectators can also enjoy added fun with polar bear hugs, a penguin party and a snow blast-off. www.londonwinterrun.co.uk

PANCAKE DAY 28 FEBRUARY

For more than 500 years, Pancake Day, or Shrove Tuesday, has been a traditional day of feasting in England, invented so that people could use up eggs before fasting in the run-up to Easter. Celebrate this tasty ritual at one of the capital’s pancake houses. At Crêpeaffaire in Spitalfields Market, choose from gluten-free savoury buckwheat pancakes and sweet crêpes, while at Crème de la Crêpe in Covent Garden you can enjoy pancakes filled with British favourites such as Heinz baked beans. www.visitlondon.com

IMAGINE CHILDREN’S FESTIVAL 9-19 FEBRUARY

Imagine Children’s Festival brings a host of mostly free music, theatre and literary events to the Southbank Centre. This year’s Nordic focus features children’s author Astrid ‘Pippi Longstocking’ Lindgren and Swedish Maja Sten’s illustrations inspired by imaginary friends. www.southbankcentre.co.uk

Watch a dance with hands as Charleroi Danses: Kiss & Cry comes to the Barbican Pick up a unique souvenir at the Collect Art Fair at the Saatchi Gallery Love dance? Sampled at Sadler’s Wells includes ballet, hip-hop and tango (p. 47) Cheer on England as they face France in the Six Nations Rugby tournament (p. 7) On your marks, get set, go! The London Winter Run takes place today for charity Ascend Western Europe’s tallest building, The View from The Shard (p. 26)

The Boys in the Band begins its run at the Vaudeville Theatre (p. 42) Green Day rock The O2 arena tonight to promote their fifth album (p. 46) Imagine that! Imagine Children’s Festival starts at the Royal Festival Hall (p. 45)

Tunnel: The Archaeology of Crossrail opens at the Museum of London Docklands (p. 33) Revolution: Russian Art 1917-1932 opens today at the Royal Academy of Arts (p. 34) It’s your last chance to see the exhibition Scots Jews at the Jewish Museum (p. 34) Comedian Jack Whitehall performs tonight at The SSE Arena, Wembley Happy Valentine’s Day! Read our feature on romantic breaks (p. 10) Cagnacci’s Repentant Madgalene opens at The National Gallery today (p. 36) Get into the groove! The Flamenco Festival starts at Sadler’s Wells (p. 6) Juliet Stevenson plays Gertrude in Hamlet, which opens tonight at the Almeida (p. 38) The Outdoor Adventure & Camping Show is on at ExCeL London Raise a glass! It’s the final day of the Gin Festival at Tobacco Dock Watch a comedy duo in Two Man Show at the Soho Theatre tonight Griff Rhys Jones stars in The Miser, which begins at the Richmond Theatre Catch Imelda Staunton in Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?, which opens tonight (p. 42) Sparks fly as Electricity: The Spark of Life opens at the Wellcome Collection (p. 35)

Craft Beer Rising festival brings more than 150 brewers to The Old Truman Brewery Goldie and the Heritage Ensemble play at Ronnie Scott’s tonight (p. 47) The Sixties exhibition, You Say You Want a Revolution?, ends today at the V&A (p. 35) The English National Opera’s The Winter’s Tale begins tonight at the Coliseum (p. 38) Debbie Tucker’s play about relationships begins at the Royal Court

Search for more ideas at www.wheretraveler.com

PREVIOUS PAGES: SIX NATIONS IMAGES © 2016 DAVID ROGERS – RFU; MOULIN ROUGE © ISTOCK; FLAMENCO FESTIVAL © MARCOS G PUNTO; CLOWNS © ISTOCK. THIS PAGE: LONDON WINTER RUN © MATT ALEXANDER; PANCAKE © CHRIS TURNER; IMAGINE CHILDREN’S FESTIVAL © SAM PEACH PRODUCTIONS LTD

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Where now | day trips

city escapes Countryside walks, oysters and village pubs with roaring fires… Sarah Riches discovers the most charming day trips from London, whatever the weather. Prepare to swoon

EAST A seaside break

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Whitstable With its cobbled alleyways, art galleries and blustery beach, no doubt you’ll find the coastal town of Whitstable enchanting. If the weather’s fine, visit the harbour before strolling along Tankerton Beach. If the clouds roll in and the sky threatens rain, there’s no need to despair – just make a beeline for Whitstable Castle & Gardens. Built as a family home in the 1790s, it is now open to the public and hosts regular antique fairs. Alternatively, learn about the town’s maritime history and annual summer oyster festival at Whitstable Museum and Gallery at the end of the High Street – after all, oysters are reputedly an aphrodisiac. Spend a few hours in Tree Tops Retreat Spa just south of the town. You can hire its relaxation lounge, sauna, Jacuzzi and pool just for the two of you. Lunch is easy: pop into Tea & Times on the High Street for a sandwich and toasted teacake, or share a bag of fish and chips from VC Jones, which has been serving fried suppers since 1962. You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to seafood restaurants, but if you want to dine somewhere special in the evening then Samphire on the High Street fits the bill. Decked out with chalkboards, this smart yet cosy bistro serves pots of mussels and the catch of the day alongside local, seasonal ingredients. How to get there: Return trains direct from London King’s Cross to Whitstable take from around an hour and 22 mins and cost from £9.90.

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NORTH A UNIVERSITY city

Cambridge What with its 13th-century architecture, tearooms and River Cam, Cambridge ticks all the boxes for a romantic day trip. The city was used as the backdrop in The Theory of Everything, starring Eddie Redmayne and Felicity Jones, as they retold how Stephen Hawking and Jane Wilder fell in love. Once you’ve seen the big guns – King’s and Queens’ Colleges and the Bridge of Sighs at St John’s College – visit Cambridgeshire Wine School, and get steamy in the Cambridge University Botanic Garden’s glasshouse. Whatever you do, make time for a river trip for two. On a crisp day, cuddle up close to your lover on a private daytime tour with The Cambridge Punting Company. Opt for a dusk or candlelit tour and you’ll have the river to yourself – and the stars. Champagne, strawberries and balloons are optional if you really want to push the boat out. For lunch, you can’t beat a traditional ploughman’s at The Orchard Tea Garden, which was established in 1897. Later on, enjoy dinner at The Varsity, a British restaurant in a listed building in the heart of the city. The city dazzles all year round but visit during e-Luminate (10-15 Feb) to see iconic buildings illuminated at night with rainbow-coloured lights and film projections. Cuddle up to keep warm! Folk music fans can listen to ballads at City Roots (3-11 Feb), a new festival at various venues. How to get there: Return trains direct from London King’s Cross to Cambridge take around 45 mins and cost from £24.20.

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SOUTH AN ALTERNATIVE DAY OUT

Back in town, have lunch at The Cobbles Tea Room, a cottage built in 1826, then get sticky RYE over chocolate fondue at Edith’s House. For Fans of EF Benson’s Mapp and Lucia novels dinner, share a bowl of spaghetti à la Lady and their BBC TV adaptation will recognise and the Tramp at Tuscan Rye, or cosy up in Rye in East Sussex as the location of the front of a log fire at The Globe Inn Marsh. fictional town of Tilling. But whether you’re This month, Rye Bay Scallop Week (18-26 Feb) a fan or not, it’s a great destination for visitors hosts tastings, cookery demonstrations and who want to experience a pretty medieval live music events. town. Small but perfectly formed, it’s easy How to get there: Return trains from London to get around on foot. King’s Cross to Rye (via Ashford International) Rye Castle Museum is a real-life take an hour and 17 mins and cost fairytale. Also known as Ypres from £14.40. The Globe Inn Marsh Tower, it was built as a fortress in the 13th century and has since WINDSOR been a home, prison A royal castle, riverside and mortuary – not spa and horse-drawn the most romantic of carriages – Windsor has places, admittedly, but it all the right ingredients does win passion points for a romantic day out. for its balcony views of While Windsor Castle the glorious surrounding gets all the glory, its countryside and the quaint grounds are also home to medieval herb garden. the 14th-century St George’s History buffs will also enjoy visiting Chapel. You can cruise past both Benson’s Georgian home, Lamb House, which aboard a French Brothers’ Edwardian is now a National Trust property with a pond steamboat – opt for a Vintage Tea Cruise and walled garden. And from 1897 to 1916, it or an evening dinner dance. was also the home of the writer Henry James. Want to go one better? Then treat your King Henry VIII’s fortress, Camber Castle, partner to a Windsor Carriages’ horse-drawn is south of the town. Guided tours include carriage ride in Windsor Great Park. Cuddle up Rye Harbour Nature Reserve, a wild, under blankets as you trot to the park’s highest low-lying space near Camber Sands point, Snow Hill, for panoramic castle views. beach that feels straight out of If you’re thinking of proposing, then visit romantic novel. Ascot Racecourse nearby, as the tradition

of popping the question on one of its pink benches dates back to the Regency period. You can watch a race on 18 Feb. Prefer to hibernate during winter? Then try making fudge at Fudge Kitchen instead, or splash out on a massage at the riverside Sir Christopher Wren Hotel and Spa. You can eat at the hotel, but if you’re looking for a cosy pub then The Carpenter’s Arms fits the bill. Dating from 1844, it’s about as traditional as pubs get; look out for etchings of carpenters in the windows. For a more upmarket option, dine at The Waterside Inn, which has three Michelin stars and incredible views over the River Thames. If music is the food of love, then watch the musical Blood Brothers, about two twins who were separated at birth, at Theatre Royal Windsor (from 27 Feb) before heading back to London. How to get there: Return direct trains from London Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside take 54 mins and cost from £11.80. Return train fares are based on the cheapest prices, which are booked in advance, with National Rail. www.nationalrail.co.uk

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“TREAT YOUR PARTNER TO A TRIP IN A HORSEDRAWN CARRIAGE”

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WHERE NOW | DAY TRIPS

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A Portrait of the Artist iPad art, Yorkshire landscapes and the Hollywood Hills – nothing is off limits for Britain’s greatest living artist, says Sam Rogg

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CHristopher Isherwood and Don Bachardy 1968 © David Hockney; david hockney © dpa picture alliance/Alamy

Where now | DAVID HOCKNEY

My WORks SEEM LIKE OLD “FRIENDS TO ME NOw”

– hockney

3 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT HOCKNEY

CHristopher Isherwood and Don Bachardy 1968 © David Hockney; david hockney © dpa picture alliance/Alamy

1. Christopher Isherwood and Don Bachardy 1968

avid Hockney, widely regarded as one of the most successful and recognisable artists of our time, once said: ‘I’m interested in all kinds of pictures, however they are made, with cameras, with paint brushes, with computers, with anything.’ From painting and drawing to photography and video, Hockney has mastered more than a few art forms in his 60-year career, while shifting his gaze from Los Angeles to Yorkshire and back again. Now, as the British artist approaches his 80th birthday, England lures him from the Hollywood Hills once more – this time for the world’s most extensive retrospective of his work to date: David Hockney at Tate Britain.

Presented in chronological order, this major exhibition at the riverside gallery traces the full trajectory of Hockney’s extraordinary oeuvre, beginning in 1961 1. Hockney’s paintings helped normalise with the autobiographical Love paintings gay relationships in the 1960s that he created while still a student at the Christopher Isherwood and Don Bachardy 1968 Royal College of Art. ‘Hockney has produced Homosexuality was illegal in the UK until some of the most memorable and familiar 1967. Created two years after he officially images in art of the past 60 years – and moved to LA, this painting shows the continues to do so,’ says curator Andrew beginnings of Hockney’s desire for more Wilson. Alex Farquharson, director at naturalism in his work. ‘Many of the Double Tate Britain, adds: ‘His practice is both Portraits present a normalised picture of consistent and also wonderfully gay relationships in the period,’ says DID YOU diverse. His impact on post-war Wilson. In the chairs are British KNOW? art, and culture more generally, Hockney spoilt his final exam novelist Christopher Isherwood is inestimable.’ and his partner, the American paper at the Royal College of Art as an act of defiance. Highlights include Hockney’s artist Don Bachardy. From When he did not graduate, experiments with digital 1968, Hockney produced more he drew a diploma, which drawing, his famous Los and more portraits of friends, later fetched £20,000 at an auction Angeles swimming pool scenes, lovers and relatives, almost his celebrated Yorkshire landscapes life size on the canvas. Gone are of the 2000s and portraits of friends, the oils in favour of acrylics – it’s as such as WH Auden and Andy Warhol, and if Hockney is seeing the world in a very family. Together they reveal something of different light compared to England. what makes the artist tick, as themes of parody, artifice and self-reflection surface 2. One of Hockney’s art students became again and again. ‘It has been a pleasure to his muse revisit works I made decades ago, including Portrait of an Artist (Pool with Two Figures) 1972 some of my earliest paintings,’ Hockney says ‘This painting is one of the masterpieces ahead of the much-anticipated opening. of Hockney’s naturalism,’ says Wilson of the ‘Many of them seem like old friends to me famous artwork, which shows Hockney’s now. We’re looking back over a lifetime with then-lover, the artist Peter Schlesinger. this exhibition.’ Hockney met Schlesinger in 1966 while w w w.where t r ave l e r. c o m 15

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WHERE NOW | DAVID HOCKNEY

3. Outpost Drive, Hollywood 1980

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HOCKNEY’S IMPACT ON ART AND CULTURE IS INESTIMABLE

TATE BRITAIN’S DIRECTOR ALEX FARQUHARSON

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teaching at UCLA and the art student quickly became his lover and muse, and the person many regarded as Hockney’s first true love. ‘This picture is suffused with an intensity and sense of longing set within an almost limitless landscape. Although the painting suggests a relationship between the two

figures, it is most especially reflective about Hills, Hockney drove daily to and from his the relationship between Hockney and studio in LA and experienced the landscape Schlesinger,’ explains Wilson. In 1968, the in a new way,’ explains Wilson. ‘The painting pair moved to London, where Hockney shows the beginnings of a use of multiple enjoyed his first retrospective, at the points of perspective and reverse perspective Whitechapel Art Gallery in 1970, – the viewer is pulled into the space of but the following year Schlesinger the picture rather than left outside DID YOU left him. Schlesinger went on its frame.’ Inspired by a Picasso KNOW? to become a successful exhibition, he also produced David Hockney was a photographer in his own right multiple canvases with music conscientious objector. He – snapping many models, Cecil and dance themes. The same refused to perform military service, so he worked in Beaton and, of course, Hockney. year, he also began working hospitals for two years with the Metropolitan Opera in order to fulfil his 3. Hockney has lived in Los in New York on set designs for National Service Angeles for more than 30 years productions, which opened in Outpost Drive, Hollywood 1980 1981 to rave reviews. At the end of the 1970s, Hockney decided David Hockney. From 9 Feb. Tate Britain, to experiment with different ways of seeing. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. ‘Having moved to a house in the Hollywood www.tate.org.uk

GREAT BRITISH ARTISTS PAUL NASH

JMW TURNER

In 1917, Paul Nash, a 27-year-old officer from London, arrived on the Western Front of World War I. ‘The willows are orange, the poplars carmine with buds, the streams gleam brightest blue and flights of pigeons go wheeling about the field,’ he wrote from the battlefield. Where many saw only destruction, Nash observed the beauty of the natural world. Experience the largest exhibition of the artist’s work for a generation in Paul Nash at Tate Britain (to 5 Mar), which displays a lifetime’s work, from his earliest drawings to his final visionary landscapes. www.tate.org.uk

Arguably the world’s best-loved English Romantic artist, Turner was known as ‘the painter of light’ for his unique ability to capture brilliant shades on the canvas. Born near Covent Garden, he never lost his cockney accent. He bequeathed much of his work to the nation and the majority is in Tate Britain, but it’s worth going to The National Gallery to see The Fighting Temeraire (1839), which is thought to represent the decline of Britain’s naval power. Turner was already in his sixties when he painted it, and it showcases his mastery in painting both sea and sky. www.nationalgallery.org.uk

LORD LEIGHTON Step inside Leighton House Museum, the former home of 19th-century artist Frederic Leighton, and explore a ‘private palace of art’. The house welcomes the return of one of Leighton’s most famous works from the Ponce Museum of Art in Puerto Rico. Flaming June: A Masterpiece Comes Home displays the iconic artwork, which depicts a sleeping female figure wrapped in orange fabric against a Mediterranean backdrop, alongside other works submitted by Leighton that year, so you can get a taste of what the original exhibition looked like in 1895. www.leightonhouse.co.uk

PORTRAIT OF AN ARTIST (POOL WITH TWO FIGURES) 1972 © DAVID HOCKNEY/PHOTO: ART GALLERY OF NEW SOUTH WALES/JENNI CARTER; OUTPOST DRIVE, HOLLYWOOD 1980 © DAVID HOCKNEY

2. Portrait of an Artist (Pool with Two Figures) 1972

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

CHEERS TO THAT! Created by New York designer Kate Spade His And Hers Beer Glasses, £50 for the pair, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

FROM LONDON Give your loved one something to smile about with one of these Valentine’s Day gifts

THINKING INSIDE THE BOX Keep wedding rings safe in this unusual enamel box Mrs And Mrs Enamel Box, £150, Halcyon Days, 27 Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LP

PILLOW TALK Pillowcases that are great as a wedding gift Mrs Pillowcase, £15, Marks & Spencer, 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP

ANIMAL ATTRACTION A handmade pair of penguins, who are known to mate for life Svaja Ellie And Ernestas Emperor Penguin Ornaments, £95 for the pair, John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX

MAKE A TOAST Moët’s Rosé bursts with fragrant flavours Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial, £41, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

YOU’RE MY CUP OF TEA Emma Bridgewater is a British ceramics manufacturer Polka-dot Mr And Mrs Mugs, £39.95 for a set of two, House of Fraser, 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF

BABY DOLL The dolls are wearing mini Moschino oufits worn by Jeremy Scott and Stella Maxwell at the MTV Awards Moschino Ken And Barbie Dolls, £229 for the pair, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL

THE FOOD OF LOVE Prestat chocolates were loved by the author Roald Dahl Gold Heart Box Of Sea Salt Caramel Truffles, £19.50, Prestat, 4 Princes Arcade, St James’s, SW1Y 6DS

Top Pick

PLAY YOUR CARDS RIGHT Framed vintage playing cards Mr And Mrs Picture Frame, £69, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK

TASTY TREATS Limitededition Valentine’s Day box inspired by cake recipes Buffet De Gâteaux, £20, Godiva, 2 Covent Garden Market Building, WC2E 8RA

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Lose yourself in the Crown Jewels The treasures that united the kingdom

Book online now to save Nearest tube Tower Hill

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: SEA LIFE London Aquarium; Coca-Cola London Eye; a flash mob proposal Below: a candlelit hotel

If dropping to one knee in a candlelit restaurant seems passé, then up your game by proposing in a unique way this Valentine’s Day. Need a helping hand? Then pop the question at The View from The Shard (p. 26), which has a bespoke marriage service. That gets you 30 minutes’ alone time, a personalised soundtrack, truffles and a couple of glasses of bubbly. Alternatively, enlist the help of Sky Garden’s proposal package, which includes a London helicopter tour and limo to Fenchurch Restaurant’s private dining room in the tower (Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF). If you or your partner don’t have a head for heights, then opt for an underwater proposal at Sea Life London Aquarium (p. 25) instead. A diver will hold up a sign underwater with the magic words and you’ll be given half a bottle of Champagne and photographs to celebrate – assuming the answer is ‘yes’! You can also try its new penguin proposal service. After a guided tour and a talk about

how penguins bond for life, a sign inside the enclosure will surprise your partner as a photographer snaps their reaction! Better still, go one step further and hire the bespoke proposal service The Proposers, which has organised 850 proposals including a string quartet on a rooftop, a flash mob in Covent Garden and a romantic treasure hunt (www.theproposers.co.uk). The One Romance, meanwhile, has arranged 600 proposals. Director Tiffany Wright says: ‘The London Eye is incredibly popular with foreign

clients. We’ve arranged numerous flash mobs on private capsules or decorated them with romantic props. Londoners prefer secret spots. Most people don’t know about the hidden pergola in Hampstead, which is absolutely beautiful and the perfect place to propose if you want intimacy and great photos. ‘The rose garden in Regent’s Park is gorgeous, too, while Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (p. 24) has so many fabulous places to propose. We recently created a 6ft love letter and hung it from the back of a bandstand, then decorated the bandstand with thousands of flowers. It was breathtaking. We’ve also arranged a proposal in an old chapel in London that had actors acting a scene from Romeo and Juliet, a string quartet and a flash mob of gospel singers’ (www.theoneromance.com). So what’s the one proposal Tiffany would love to arrange, but hasn’t done yet? ‘Prince Harry’s one at Buckingham Palace!’ she says. ‘Now that really would be something to talk about.’

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orchids courtesy of royal botanic gardens, kew

They say Paris is the City of Love but Sarah Riches begs to disagree – and so will you once you discover London’s most romantic spots to get down on bended knee

diver courtesy of sea life london aquarium; coca-cola london eye © Doug Peters/EMPICS Entertainment; the proposers © Trillion Productions/the proposers; the proposers’ flash mob image © Chris Lobina

Perfect proposals

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

SIGHTSEEING Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by Peter Paul Rubens. The ceiling was one of Charles I’s final images before he lost his head. The king was executed on a scaffold outside in 1649. Daily 10am-1pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo A zoo with a play area and a petting farm with donkeys, chinchillas and goats. Children will also enjoy the large sandpit, diggers, fort, life-size tractor and fire engine. There are also new zoo-keeper experiences where you can discover everything you ever wanted to know about the animals and the zoo. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £8.95; child £6.95. www.batterseaparkzoo. co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

The British Library The world’s largest library also boasts temporary exhibitions and a great permanent collection. To 28 Feb: Maps and the 20th Century: Drawing the Line. See how maps made the world we live in. Library open Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun and bank holidays 11am-5pm. Exhibition galleries open Mon 9.30am-6pm; Tue-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross. The London residence of the monarchy. To 5 Feb: Guided Tour of the State Rooms. The tour ends with a glass of Champagne and a copy of the official souvenir guide. 1.30pm; 2pm; 4pm & 4.30pm. Tickets £80. www.royal collection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria.

Fulham Palace

The world’s first centre dedicated to urban sustainability, which aims to educate visitors about future global challenges. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm. Adult £8; child free. www.thecrystal.org. 1 Siemens Brothers Way, Royal Victoria Docks, E16 1GB. T: 020-7055 6400. Off map. Station: Royal Victoria.

This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Now it’s a museum with gardens, a café and art gallery. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-3.30pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Avenue, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

Cutty Sark This 19th-century ship – the world’s last surviving tea clipper – hosts regular events. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12.15; child £6.30. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Greenwich.

Dennis Severs’ House

Go Ape Battersea Park Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground. Daily from 9.30am. Adult £35; child £27-£35. www.goape.co.uk/batterseapark. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0845-643 9236. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Since 1979, visitors have been able Golden Hinde II A full-size reconstruction of Sir to explore the home of the artist Francis Drake’s 16th-century vessel, Dennis Severs. Silent night tour There are more than in which he circumnavigated the Mon; Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. 900 official Blue Plaques globe. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Guided Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm across London; tour adult £7; child £5. www.golden & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£17.50. the scheme hinde.com. 1 Pickfords Wharf, Clink www.dennissevershouse.co.uk. began in 1866 St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0123. E10. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. Station: London Bridge. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Dr Johnson’s House

Ham House and Gardens

Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this period home. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple.

One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses. It’s said to be haunted. Adult £10.40; child £5.20. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

Eltham Palace & Gardens

Former homes of composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom, and attend a music concert. Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm; Sun noon-6pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhouse.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org. uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Handel & Hendrix in London

Changing the Guard At 11am every Mon, Wed, Fri and Sun, watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt. There is no ceremony in very wet weather. www.royal.gov.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria.

Chelsea Physic Garden

ORCHIDS COURTESY OF ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW

THE PROPOSERS © TRILLION PRODUCTIONS/THE PROPOSERS; THE PROPOSERS’ FLASH MOB IMAGE © CHRIS LOBINA

Buckingham Palace

The Crystal

London’s oldest botanic garden, founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden beside the Thames. Admire 5,000 species of plants, many of which are medicinal or edible, including the largest outdoor fruiting olive tree. Free daily tours. To 3 Feb daily 10am-4pm; from 6 Feb Mon-Fri 11am-3pm. www.chelsea physicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Chiswick House & Gardens Trust See old masters on display in this manor, which has neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent. To 26 Feb: Magical Lantern Festival. Stunning illuminations light up the grounds. Gardens daily 7am-dusk; house Sun-Wed 10am-5pm (closed until Apr); conservatory daily 10am-4pm. House adult £6.70; child £4. www.chgt.org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

In full bloom Suffering from the winter blues? Then see the vibrant hues at Kew Gardens‘ Orchids Festival (from 4 Feb; p. 24). Lisa Biondi, Kew’s horticulturist, says: ‘I’m looking forward to seeing this festival take shape as it will be a celebration of the diverse use of plants in India.’ The Princess of Wales Conservatory will be transformed into an Indian market complete with rickshaws, elephant, peacock and tiger figures and a giant Indian flag made from orchids. Moth orchids will hang from the ceiling while a traditional Indian marriage swing, decorated with saris, sways among vandas. Children will enjoy block painting and colouring in mandalas, elaborate circular designs used in meditation. www.wheretraveler.com 21

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SIGHTSEEING The London Bridge Experience & Tombs

Forget-me-not A new exhibition to commemorate Diana, Princess of Wales is opening in her former home. Diana: Her Fashion Story at Kensington Palace (from 24 Feb) will trace her style from her demure early outfits to her glamorous gowns. Highlights include a pink Emanuel blouse (below) worn for her 1981 engagement portrait and a Victor Edelstein gown she wore when she danced with John Travolta at the White House. Curator Eleri Lynn says: ‘Diana was a young woman who had to quickly learn the rules of royal and diplomatic dressing, and in the process put the spotlight on British fashion.’

An exciting history lesson on the spooky past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this spinetingling scary attraction to life. Tickets also include admission to the London Tombs, which are located under the bridge in a former plague pit. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-6pm. Adult £26.95; child £21.45. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The London Dungeon This uniquely thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and (ahem) smell the chillingly amusing characters of the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you. Not for small children or the faint-hearted! Joint tickets with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Aquarium, London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-423 2240. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Interactive screens in each pod give an insight into the landmarks on view. Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £24.95; child £19.95. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

ZSL London Zoo

Kensington Palace

Permanently moored on the River Thames, this imposing ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm.org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

This royal residence was Princess Diana’s last home. From 24 Feb: Diana: Her Fashion Story. An exhibition dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £15; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Queensway.

Houses of Parliament

Kenwood

The site of British Parliament since 1265, the current neo-gothic building including Big Ben was built in the 19th century. Watch debates for free when the Houses are in session. Guided and audio tours every Sat and 10-17 Feb Tue-Fri. Audio tour adult £18.50; child £7.50 (first child free). Guided tour adult £25.50; child £11. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house with its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. 3, 10, 17 & 24 Feb: Curator’s Tour of Kenwood. 5 Feb: Family Craft. 14-15 Feb: Winter Quest & Craft. Family activity. 26 Feb: Kenwood Stories. Volunteers talk visitors through the house’s art collections. Free admission. Daily 10am-4pm. www.english-heritage. org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

The Jewel Tower

KidZania London

Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Please check for prices and times. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 0207222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Keats House This home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/keatshousehampstead. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

KidZania has everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory, pit lane, an aviation academy and a tattoo parlour! Occasional adult nights. Daily from 10am; call for closing times. Adult from £9.50; child from £11.50. www.london.kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Madame Tussauds The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, including the Queen, Adele, The Beatles and Margaret Thatcher. Pose with your favourite legend and visit the terrifying Chamber of Horrors and Scream experiences. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition, which features 11 sets from the film. The Game’s Afoot, an immersive attraction with actors, illusion and sound effects, is a highlight. Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for times. Adult £35; child £29.50. www.madametussauds.com/ london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

Visit St Paul’s Cathedral, Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece (p. 25)

EMANUEL BLOUSE © SWNS.COM; ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL © VISIT LONDON IMAGES/BRITAIN ON VIEW

HMS Belfast

Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. As well as an aquarium, penguin beach and endangered Sumatran tigers, there is also the Land of the Lions enclosure – which houses Asiatic lions in surroundings designed to resemble an Indian national park, complete with rickshaws. To 11 Feb daily 10am-5pm. From 20 Feb 10am5.30pm. To 10 Feb adult £21.50; child £17.25. From 11 Feb adult £27.04; child £20. www.zsl.org. London Zoo, Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

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SIGHTSEEING The Monument

Ripley’s Believe It or Not!

The Royal Institution of Great Britain

This stone column was built to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £4; child £2. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.org.uk. The Monument, Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

This curiosity-filled museum with more than 700 artefacts is a hit across the globe and a great option for families. Explore a range of oddities over six floors, from a shrunken head to an albino alligator and the world’s tallest man. Daily 10ammidnight. Adult £27.95; child £20.95. www.ripleys london.com. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 0203238 0022. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Grade I-listed Georgian building housing a museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Visit its free Faraday Museum and you can see scientists at work, too. Check for its programme of talks. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew

The Royal Mews

The O2 – Star Wars Identities As you browse 200 original sketches, models and props from the popular franchise, you’ll be asked questions to reveal your Star Wars character. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. Adult £20-£25; child £10-£15. www.the o2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training. Don’t miss the ceiling in the Painted Hall. Daily, please check for opening times. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Greenwich.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. Please check for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabeth olympicpark.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site has plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda. You can also experience The Hive, a big aluminium structure modelled on a beehive surrounded by wildflowers. Buzzing and lights play in response to a real beehive. Allocate a whole day for a visit (p. 20). From 4 Feb: Orchids Festival. The Princess of Wales Conservatory will be transformed into an Indian market with rickshaws, peacock models and an Indian flag made from orchids (p. 21). From 9 Feb: Orchid Lates. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, see thousands of orchids and tropical flower displays after dark. Flora Japonica. An exhibition celebrating the richness of Japanese native flora and its influence on horticulture in the West. Gardens to 10 Feb daily 10am-4.15pm. Gardens from 11 Feb daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9; child £3.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses. Discover the history behind the Diamond Jubilee State Coach and the Golden State Coach, which was built for George III in 1762 and weighed almost four tonnes. Witness daily life and learn about the mews’ history. MonSat 10am-4pm. Adult £9.30; child £5.50. www.royal collection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Royal Observatory The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch planetarium shows throughout the day. The Sky Tonight. Daily planetarium show that explores the Moon, constellations, planets and deep space objects. It has great views of London. Observatory and Meridian Line daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Avenue, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/ Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

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SIGHTSEEING SEA LIFE London Aquarium

Tower Bridge Exhibition

One of Europe’s largest aquariums with around 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a scary glass walkway above 16 sharks (p. 20). You can also snorkel with sharks (from £80 including admission) and see lost and found items from the river. Please check for times. Adult £24.50; child £18.10. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. www.sealife. co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-663 1678. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand neighbour, London Bridge). It has wonderful views; check out the glass floor on the high walkways. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9; child £3.90. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Shrek’s Adventure! This attraction is a family favourite. Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and SEA LIFE London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27; child £21.85. www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book far ahead

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online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-4.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-4.30pm. Adult £22.50; child £10.50. www.hrp.org.uk/ tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

The Vault This is home to the Jean Paul Gaultier bustier from Madonna’s Blond Ambition tour. See that and other iconic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia at Hard Rock Cafe’s revamped museum. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 0207514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

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BEST ATTRACTION FOR GROUP VISITS GROUP TRAVEL AWARDS

St James’s Palace One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in the 14th century and home to royalty for three centuries. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.

St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with regular markets, shops, galleries such as Artopia and The Alexander Miles Gallery and restaurants including CAU, Tom’s Kitchen, Bravas Tapas and White Mulberries. www.skdocks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brassrubbing centre and live classical music (some free). Classical music performed weekly by candlelight. Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-thefields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral (p. 22) has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. Don’t miss Oculus: An Eye into St Paul’s, a 270-degree film experience, for an excellent overview. Free tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. A highlight is a costumed actor-led tour, on which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell for a dramatic account based on old diaries. Wed; Sat-Sun 11am-12.15pm & 2pm-5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

TAKE AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH LONDON’S SPOOKY HISTORY

TheLondonBridgeExperience.com

The London Bridge Experience, 2-4 Tooley Street, London Bridge, London SE1 2SY

FREE audio guides available

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SIGHTSEEING The View from The Shard

Warner Bros Studio Tour London

Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed ‘kaleidoscopic’ lift (p. 20). At 1,017ft, you can see as far as Windsor Castle in the west on a clear day – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. If you pre-book, you can also take part in a yoga class on Saturdays (£40). 15 Feb: Valentine’s Film. Watch a romantic flick chosen by the public at the top of The Shard. Sun-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-10pm. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.the viewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. A fascinating insight into filmmaking. 11-12 Feb: Valentine’s Dinner in the Great Hall. Following a love potion cocktail, you’ll be seated at tables for two in the Great Hall set for a candlelit three-course dinner. Afterwards, you’ll enjoy after-hours access to the Studio Tour to see see sets such as the Gryffindor common room, Dumbledore’s office, the Weasley kitchen at The Burrow and the Malfoy Manor dining table before enjoying a drink on Platform 9¾, which features

the original Hogwarts Express locomotive. Please check for times. Adult £39; child £31. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. Mon-Sat, please check for times. Adult £20; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

WWT London Wetland Centre This 104-acre wildlife reserve has the Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to more than 100 species of rare and wild birds. Otters are fed daily at 11am and 2pm. 3 Feb: Winter Wildlife Photography. 11-19 Feb: Puddle Jumping Championships. Wear wellies! 19 Feb: Udderly Amazing Cows! Learn more about the importance of the centre’s cows and how the wardens look after them. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £11.91; child £6.55. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS Classic Car Show 23-26 Feb: Motorheads shouldn’t miss this enormous show dedicated to fast, new or bizarre vehicles. Adult £27; child £20. www.the londonclassiccarshow.co.uk. ExCeL, E16 1FR. T: 0844-871 8805. Off map. Station: Custom House/Prince Regent.

Grimaldi Service 5 Feb: An annual service (p. 7) which sees more

than 60 clowns in full make-up, complete with red noses and perhaps a squirty flower brooch, attend a service to honour the king of clowns – Joseph Grimaldi (1778-1837). Get there early, as it gets busy. 3pm. Free. All Saints Church, Livermere Rd, E8 4EZ. Off map. Station: Haggerston.

River Trips Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier – ideal if you have limited time in London and want to see lots of sights at once. The Circular Cruise fleet is made up of three vessels: Sapele, Mercuria and Sarah Kathleen. Boats depart every 40 minutes between 11am-3pm for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. Adult single £10, return £14; child single £5, return £7. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster. 26 W H E R E Lo n d o n I F E B R UA R Y 2017

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SIGHTSEEING City Cruises

Big Bus Walking Tours

Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich Piers. River Red Rover is an allday hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music Fri-Sat. Other cruises also available. Please check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7740 0400. Departure points vary.

Choose from three guided tours: Royal London at 10.20am, Harry Potter at 1.30pm and Haunting Mysteries at 4.30pm. All take 90 minutes to two hours. £5, or free with a Big Bus Tour. Daily. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop 10, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.

London Duck Tours

Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the curious cobbled pathways of the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that has survived 2,000 years of building, fires and bombings. The Billingsgate Roman Bathhouse was discovered in 1848, and is now open to the public. Explore

this insight into ancient life in the City on a 45-minute guided tour and discover the remains of the Roman Bathhouse. £8 adult; £6 child. Check for times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Capital Taxi Tours Sit back and relax as a qualified Blue Badge or City of London guide drives you around in a licensed taxi for up to five people. Choose from various London tours by day or night, themed tours, treasure hunts and trips to Oxford, Cambridge and beyond. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capital taxitours.co.uk. Various departure points. T: 020-8590 3621.

See some of London’s best-loved and most iconic sights on land before a thrilling splashdown on the River Thames. It’s ideal if you want an amphibious adventure – children will absolutely love it. Adult £26; child £18. www.londonduck tours.co.uk. 55 York Rd, SE1 7NJ. T: 020-7928 3132. F8. Station: Waterloo.

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-4.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.58. Discounted joint tickets with the CocaCola London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 20 piers across the capital. Oyster cards are valid, too. Top tip: Download its free in:flow app. Using GPS tracking to find out your location, it can provide a real-time audio explanation of the iconic sights you see as you pass them. River Roamer hop on and off adult £14.70; child £7.35. www.thamesclippers.com. Depart at various points along the River Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.

THE VIEW YOU’LL NEVER FORGET

Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service with live audio commentary departs from Westminster Pier and St Katharine’s Pier every 30 minutes 10am-4pm for Greenwich Piers and the Thames Barrier. Westminster to Greenwich adult single £12.50, return £16.50; child single £6.25, return £8.25 (35 per cent discount Mon-Fri). www.thames riverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

Thamesjet Try this 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. It’ll be the highlight of your trip. Departs from Westminster Pier. Wed-Sun 11am-3pm. Adult from £39; child from £28. www.thamesjet.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7740 0400.

Tours & Guided Walks Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £23; child £11. www.bigbustours.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Victoria.

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SIGHTSEEING City of London Guides Walks

Golden Tours

Choose from a variety of themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street – the home of journalism – to Smithfield Market and City gardens. Adult free-£12.50; child prices vary. www.cityoflondonguides.com.

From day excursions to overnight city breaks, these London experts offer quality tour experiences from the capital to popular locations such as Stonehenge. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039. Station: Victoria.

Evan Evans

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours

The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been helping visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle to Stonehenge. Check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours. com. Various departure points. T: 020-7950 1777.

See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

GoToMidtown Tours More than 100 themed 45-minute free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require pre-booking. 10am & 1pm walks start at the orange information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station (88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA). 11am; 2pm & 5.30pm walks start from the red sculpture in the courtyard of Central St Giles (1 Giles High St, WC2H 8AG). www.gotomidtown.co.uk. Holborn Tube station, 88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA. T: 020-7078 7077. D7/8. Station: Holborn. 1 Giles High St, WC2H 8AG. T: 020-7078 7077. D8. Station: Holborn.

Jack the Ripper Tours Blue Badge guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks, which offer an intriguing look at the infamous Jack the Ripper. Numbers are limited in order to give participants a better experience. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Aldgate East Underground station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

London Chocolate Tours Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this two-hour tour by a former cocoa trader. You’ll learn how chocolate is made. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm. £15 for Where London readers (usually £39). Departs from The Ritz London by Green Park station. www.tourguides. org.uk. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.

The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter, with its uninterrupted views. Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including Tower of London, St Paul’s and The Shard. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour. Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by the not-for-profit charity The Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with the British Film industry and contemporary writers. Sat 1pm & 5pm. Tickets £24. www.londonliterarypubcrawl.com. 12 Fouberts Place, off Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Favourites include the Jack the Ripper Walk (daily 7.30pm & Sat 3pm from Tower Hill), a Harry Potter tour (Wed & Sat-Sun 2pm, departure points vary) and a Ghost Walk (daily 7.30pm; departure points vary). Walks take two hours and there’s no need to book. Adult £10; child free with an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

Original London Sightseeing Walk Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre and include Changing the Guard (departing 10.30am), Rock ‘n’ Roll (1pm) and Jack the Ripper (3.30pm from Tower Hill Station). Walking tours are free with Original London Sightseeing Tour. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross. 28 W H E R E LO N D O N I F E B R UA R Y 2017

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SIGHTSEEING The Original Tour With more than 60 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. Book a 24- or 48-hour tour before 3 Mar and you’ll receive an extra 24 hours and a free Greenwich river cruise extension. Adult £30; child £15. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

PlanetPass PlanetPass is an app that allows you to book a private guided tour for up to six people at any time or day. Choose from street art, Jack the Ripper, a Borough Market one for foodies and more. From £9 per person. www.planetpass.com. Various meeting points. T: 01865-922380.

Out Of Town Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities to the University of Oxford. See pre-Raphaelite paintings and Egyptian mummies. From 10 Feb: Degas to Picasso. Charting the rise of Modernism in France, featuring works by Manet, Cézanne, Degas and Picasso. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Free admission; charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in ‘Capability’ Brown parkland. To 28 Feb: Conservation and Restoration Tours. Learn about the ‘deep clean’. From 11 Feb: Exhibition: A Passion for Fashion. A look at fashion through the ages. Palace daily 10.30am-4.30pm; park 9am-6pm; formal gardens daily 10am-4pm. Palace, park and gardens adult £24.90; child £13.90; park and gardens adult £14.90; child £6.90. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993810530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then take bus S3.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Most days throughout the year; call for times. Adult £12.75; child £5.75. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Opera House One of the world’s leading opera venues and also home to the Royal Ballet company. Backstage Tour. Tour behind the scenes for an insight into the venue’s history – you may even see a production in rehearsal. Most days 10.30am; 12.30pm & 2.30pm, but check. Adult £12; child £8.50. www.royalopera house.org. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz hotel. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Shakespeare’s Globe (Tours) This reconstruction of William Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has the city’s only thatched roofs, while the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candlelit performance space (p. 38). Theatre tours Mon-Sun 9.30am-5pm. Exhibition Mon-Sun 9am-5pm. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £16; child £9. www.shakespeares globe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Walkit Innovative site aiming to get people out on foot. Enter your starting point and destination (including street, place or postcode) and the site will work out a route map, distance and time, plus the amount of calories burned and carbon saved. www.walkit.com.

Wembley Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. Daily from 10am. Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium.com/wembleytours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

Westways Carriage Horses Get collected from your hotel and see the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage. Tours last two and a half hours. £475 per carriage. www.westways carriagehorses.co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155. www.wheretraveler.com 29

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SIGHTSEEING Stonehenge

Watts Gallery Artists’ Village

Once home to King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and maze is set in 60 acres of parkland. 4-5, 11-12 & 25-26 Feb: Adult Ghost Tours. Once night falls, you’ll be spooked by stories of ghostly apparitions on a two-hour tour. Palace, formal gardens and maze daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £16.50; child £8.25. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £15.50; child £9.30. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

An Arts and Crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures. To 7 May: Painted with Stories: The Making of Maiolica. Ceramicist Myra McDonnell displays her work inspired by maiolica, the tin-glazed pottery of the Italian Renaissance. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50 (Tue £4.75); child free. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.

Leeds Castle

Renaissance-style chateau built in the Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s late-19th century. Magnificent house and oldest inhabited castle. Includes State wine cellars, plus gardens and aviary. Apartments furnished with art by Please check for times and prices. Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. www.waddesdonmanor.org. Near Changing the Guard alternate days Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 11am except Sun. Daily 9.45am0JH. T: 01296-653226. Off map. The Royal Standard is flown at royal Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury. 4.15pm. Adult £20; child £11.70. residences when www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor Warwick Castle the Queen is Castle, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. Built by William the Conqueror in present T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: 1068, this castle is now a familyWaterloo to Windsor & Eton Central friendly experience with landscaped or Windsor & Eton Riverside. gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Woburn Abbey and Gardens Don’t miss Merlin: The Dragon Tower and displays Set in a 3,000 acre deer park, this historic house has of medieval weaponry, as well as regular falconry been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for displays. The dungeon, with actors, is a highlight. 17-25 Feb: Little Warrior Breaks. Kids can learn nearly 400 years and is currently occupied by the archery and other skills to conquer fierce dragons 15th duke and his family. The abbey is closed until and take part in medieval battles. Check for 10 April; gardens and tea rooms Fri-Sun 10am-4pm. times. Castle adult £19.20; child £16.80; castle & Gardens and deer park adult £7.25; child £4.50, dungeon adult £22.80; child £19.20. www.warwickcharges for special events. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333. Off map. Station: Warwick. Off map. Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.

Hampton Court Palace

Fairytale 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze and see 100 species of birds in the aviary. Castle daily 10.30am-4pm; grounds & gardens daily 10am-5pm. Adult £24.50; child £16.50. www.leedscastle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622765400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its formal gardens. Please check for house prices and times. Garden only adult £6.20; child £3.10. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s residence in Scotland. Daily 9.30am4.30pm. Adult £12; child £7.20. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley, then a 15-minute walk.

Waddesdon Manor

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See By Night

The family-friendly Taxi Tour Company “We meet as strangers and part as friends”

Enjoy a private London tour for 2 or 3 hours, half day or even a full day in an iconic London Taxi.

Departing daily from Green Park

See the sights before taking our ‘Hidden Treasures Tour’ to explore parts of London that tourists never normally get to see.

bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30 and 21:20 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

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Themed tours include Harry Potter, Doctor Who, Downton Abbey, James Bond, The Beatles, Ghost tour, Sinister London, ‘It’s only Rock n Roll’ and many more. Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor.

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LONDON’S NO.1 SIGHTSEEING TOUR ON THE THAMES

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Big Ben, The London Eye, Tower Bridge and more. See the best views in London with our River Thames sightseeing cruise, with City Cruises’ boats departing every 30 minutes and tickets starting at £10.00.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this image: Articulated iron manikin, humanoid robot, Eric the robot and biped robot Inset: Space scout

Meet the robots It’s almost 100 years since the term ‘robot’ was first used, in a 1920 science-fiction play R.U.R. by Czech writer Karel Čapek, but our fascination with replicated life started long before this. For centuries, artists and scientists have constructed machines to look and behave increasingly human or animal. And, rightly or wrongly, they look set to become more widespread as they become more advanced and affordable. In fact, Japan has already announced there will be robots to help visitors at the 2020 Olympics. This month, indulge your fascination with artificial life at two exhibitions tackling the past, present and future of robots, which are suitable for children and adults alike. At the Science Museum, Robots (from 8 Feb; p. 34) focuses on the 500-year-old story of humanoid

machines, while at the Horniman Museum, The Robot Zoo (from 11 Feb; p. 34) seeks to answer some of the natural world’s most persistent questions through a selection of animals recreated in robot form. Divided into five different periods and places, the Science Museum’s exhibition features more than 100 robots, from a 16th-century mechanical monk to robots from science fiction and modern-day research labs. Explore how robots and society have been shaped by religious beliefs, the Industrial Revolution, 20th-century popular culture and hopes for the future. Get up close to an articulated iron manikin from the 1500s, a 2.4m-tall 1950s robot with a glamorous past, and one of the first walking bipedal robots. Along the way, you can interact with some of the working robots

on display, and meet Eric, a full-size talking, moving replica of the UK’s first robot. The original Eric was built in 1928 and went on to wow crowds around the world before he disappeared. To this day, no one knows what happened to him. Last summer, a crowdfunding campaign was launched and Eric was successfully rebuilt – visit the museum’s website to watch a short documentary of his journey from then to now. Over at the Horniman Museum, meanwhile, you can get up close to mechanical animals and discover how chameleons change colour, what makes grasshoppers leap and how a giant squid propels itself through water. There are plenty of hands-on displays to get to grips with animal anatomy, including an intricately-made platypus, a mechanical giraffe and a huge house fly. You can see them, get inside them and even control them – by the end of your visit to this most unusual robotic zoo, you will never look at animals in the same way again.

IRON MANIKIN © SCIENCE MUSEUM; HUMANOID ROBOT ‘CYGAN’ © DR PIERO FIORITO AND JERRY WALLACE; ERIC THE ROBOT © KEYSTONE-FRANCE; BIPED ROBOT AND SPACE SCOUT © SCIENCE MUSEUM

Sam Rogg looks at two exhibitions that are exploring artificial life, both past and present. From a 16th-century mechanical monk to robots from modern-day research labs, you’ll find the future is already here!

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

Museums Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel and the Physio Room, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Self-guided tours MonSat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for match-related closures. Self-guided: adult £20; child £10. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20.75. Museum only: adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal.com/ tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the Bank of England from its 1694 foundation to the present day, and find lots of fun activities for kids. The newly refurbished Banknote Gallery features historic notes. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House This charming 18th-century townhouse was the last home of American hero Franklin. Architectural tours Mon noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm; historical shows Wed-Sun noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm. Tue advance booking required. Shows: adult £7; under 16s free. Mon guided tours: adult £3.50; under 16s free. www.benjaminfranklinhouse. org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Churchill War Rooms

Fashion and Textile Museum

Fortified basement where Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Explore the underground bunker and discover what life was like for the prime minister. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £17.25; child £8.60; under fives free. www.iwm.org. uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 0207930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery. To 7 May: Josef Frank: Patterns-Furniture-Painting. The first UK exhibition of the Austrian-born architect. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur until 8pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon. org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Clink Prison Museum

Florence Nightingale Museum

A former prison dating back to 1144, it houses an exhibition about London’s penal past and instruments of torture. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink. co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Museum about the work of the pioneering 19thcentury British nurse and health reformer. To 30 Apr: The Age of the Beard: Putting on a Brave Face in Victorian Britain. Photographic exhibition and season of events dedicated to the great British beard. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florencenightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 0374. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Design Museum Recently relocated to High Street Kensington, this is one of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design and architecture. To 19 Feb: Beazley Designs of the Year. Now in its ninth year, this popular display celebrates design that captures the spirit of the year. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The Fan Museum Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan with examples from the 12th century right up to the present day. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £4; child £3; under sevens free. www.the fanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

The Foundling Museum Britain’s home for abandoned children, founded in 1739 by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundling museum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Geffrye Museum A museum recreating English interiors across the ages. 1 & 15 Feb: Restored Almshouse Tours. Get a rare glimpse into the lives of London’s poor and elderly in former times (hourly 11am-3pm). Tue-Sun & bank holidays 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.geffrye-museum. org.uk. 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 020-7739 9893. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

Unrivalled collection of antiquities. Huge number of displays and treasures from Ancient Egypt. To 26 Feb: South Africa: The Art of a Nation. Major exhibition featuring some of the earliest examples of human creativity plus cuttingedge contemporary works. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Cartoon Museum Dedicated to British comic art from the 18th century to today. To 23 Apr: Future Shock! 40 Years of 2000 A.D. Features original artwork by Brian Bollard, Carlos Ezquerra, Dave Gibbons and more. Mon-Sat 10.30am-5.30pm; Sun noon-5.30pm. Adult £7; child free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.

Charles Dickens Museum Former home of novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Dickensian Walks on selected Wed & Sun 11.30am. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square. skeletons © crossrail/mola

Wallace; eric the robot © KEYSTONE-FRANCE; biped robot and space scout © science museum

The British Museum

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly tours with past stars of the game (from £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc. com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Six feet under After years of endless tunneling and construction, the Elizabeth Line – a new high-frequency, super-fast railway built by Crossrail – is gearing up to launch in 2018. Along the way, the project has uncovered some buried treasure – more than 10,000 artefacts, in fact, spanning 8,000 years of human history, from the Mesolithic era to the Great Plague of 1665. You can see them at the Museum of London Docklands‘ Tunnel: The Archaeology of Crossrail (from 10 Feb; p. 34). Jay Carver, Crossrail’s lead archaeologist, says: ‘The Crossrail project has given archaeologists a rare opportunity to study previously inaccessible areas of London. This exhibition will help us bring the stories of London’s hidden history to light.’ www.wheretraveler.com 33

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES London Transport Museum Explore London’s transport system, including buses and the world’s first Underground steam train. To 18 Feb: Weaving Futures. Examine the role of textiles in modern transport now and in the future. Mon-Thur & Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £17; child free. www.ltmuseum. co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 0207379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising An insight into the evolution of consumer brands. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child £5. www.museumofbrands.com. 111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611. Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove.

Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum, covering London’s history. To 17 Apr: Fire! Fire! Discover London before, during and after the Great Fire of 1666. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

Museum of London Docklands

A century on from the Russian Revolution, the Royal Academy of Arts looks back at a 15-year period in Russia when possibilities seemed limitless and the people’s art flourished. Featuring powerful pieces, from paintings to films, by the likes of Boris Mikailovich Kustodiev (above) and Kazimir Malevich, Revolution: Russian Art 1917-1932 (from 11 Feb; p. 36) looks at the artistic landscape following the fateful events of 1917, as Socialist Realism emerged alongside idealistic aspirations. Enter a full-scale recreation of an apartment designed for communal living and ponder the legacy of propaganda posters in this must-see show of groundbreaking Russian art.

The intriguing history of the River Thames. From 10 Feb: Tunnel: The Archaeology of Crossrail. Archaeological objects unearthed by Crossrail, Europe’s largest infrastructure project (p. 33). Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org. uk/docklands. No. 1 Warehouse, West India Quay, Canary Wharf, E14 4AL. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay.

National Maritime Museum Spread over several sites, which were originally part of a 19th-century school for seafarers’ children. Includes the Maritime Galleries and Nelson’s Trafalgar uniform To 17 Apr: Emma Hamilton: Seduction and Celebrity. Discover the woman who captured the heart of Admiral Horatio Nelson. MonSun 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

The Guards Museum

Imperial War Museum

The history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards. A great insight into the Changing the Guard ceremony. Daily 10am4pm. Adult £6; child free. www.theguardsmuseum. com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: Westminster.

Displays of conflicts, particularly those that involve Britain. To 12 Mar: Visions of War Above and Below. Imaginative responses to conflict. Daily 10am6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North.

Horniman Museum & Gardens

Jewish Museum

Natural History Museum

Jewish history in the UK from 1066 onwards. To 12 Feb: Scots Jews: Identity, Belonging and the Future. Explore Scotland’s Jewish community through Judah Passow’s pictures. SatThur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Exhibits about nature’s many wonders. To 10 Sep: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. Annual exhibition illustrating the abundance and vulnerability of life on our planet. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm. ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Queen’s House

Leighton House Museum

This 17th-century house, once home to Charles I’s queen, Henrietta Maria, now displays works by Great Masters such as Gainsborough and Hogarth. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/ queens-house. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Collection based upon that of the adventuring Victorian tea trader Frederick John Horniman. From 11 Feb: The Robot Zoo. Discover animal robots (p. 32). Daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

House of Illustration The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake. Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Household Cavalry Museum Explore the work of the Queen’s mounted guard, with touchscreen guides and a working stables. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard daily on Horse Guards Parade at 11am; Sun 10am; plus inspection at 4pm. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

The restored home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work. Permanent collections includes paintings, drawings and sculptures. To 2 Apr: Flaming June: The Making of an Icon. Leighton’s masterpiece returns to where it was painted. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park, W14 8LZ. T: 0207602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the film series. MonFri & Sun 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm (closed 1 Feb). Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.londonfilmmuseum. com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Science Museum Enjoy changing exhibitions, an IMAX 3D cinema and more. At the permanent gallery, Information Age, you can see the BBC’s first radio transmitter 2LO. From 8 Feb: Robots. Explore the story of humanoid robots (p. 32). Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0870-870 4868. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Boris Mikailovich Kustodiev, Bolshevik, 1920 © State Tretyakov Gallery

From Russia with love

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BORIS MIKAILOVICH KUSTODIEV, BOLSHEVIK, 1920 © STATE TRETYAKOV GALLERY

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Sir John Soane’s Museum The architect Soane’s former home, a Regency townhouse left to the nation in 1837 is a public museum. To 11 Mar: Robert Adam’s London. Discover a vision for London by one of Britain’s greatest architects. Museum tours daily; times vary. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm. Closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

Somerset House This Thameside neo-classical 18th-century building houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants. To 12 Mar: Hair by Sam McKnight. Major exhibition celebrating the master hairstylist’s 40-year career. Galleries daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Temple.

Ben Uri Gallery

GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with changing exhibitions. To 5 Feb: The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined. Exhibition exploring the idea of taste in fashion . To 16 Apr: The Fantastic Barbican World. Explores Chamberlin, Powell and Bon’s endeavour to combine spaciousness with high density development. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. Mon-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun noon-11pm; bank holidays noon-11pm. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

The London Jewish Museum of Art houses more than 1,000 works. Mon 1pm-5.30pm; Tue-Fri 10am5.30pm; Sat & Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.benuri.org.uk. 108a Boundary Rd, off Abbey Rd, NW8 0RH. T: 020-7604 3991. Off map. Station: Kilburn High Road.

The Courtauld Gallery European art collection housed in Somerset House. To 29 May: Reading Drawings. Inscriptions that can be found on drawings, such as artists’ signatures. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7. Child free. www.courtauld. ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.

Twinings Museum The home of Twinings since 1706, where visitors can get a taste of its 300-year history. Mon-Fri 9.30am7.30pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

V&A Museum of Childhood Childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. From 4 Feb: Searching for Ghosts. A glimpse into the experiences of several generations of east Londoners. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.museumofchildhood.org.uk. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

Victoria and Albert Museum Commonly called the V&A, this museum contains fine and applied arts, sculptures and textiles. To 26 Feb: You Say You Want a Revolution: Records & Rebels 1966-1970. Explore the significance and impact of the late 1960s, expressed through music, fashion and political activism. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

Fall in love with Wimbledon

The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays its collection of Rococo art. To 26 Mar: The Appliance of Science: Analysing Arms and Armour by Neutron Diffraction. Display highlighting the richness of Indian and Islamic culture and technology. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection. org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue houses artefacts relating to health. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours The original trophies, art, fashions and donations from the current champions are on display. Look out for the ghost of John McEnroe and the new virtual-reality experience taking you to Centre Court. To 20 Mar: Reinventing the Racket. Iconic and unusual rackets. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum adult £13; child £8. Museum & Tour adult £24; child £15. Family offer: one free child to every full price adult. www.wimbledon.com/museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12 minute walk.

Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites? Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit. Supported by

New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE

T: 020 8946 6131 wimbledon.com/museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography. Mon-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £4. www.thephotographersgallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Queen’s Gallery Treasures from the Royal Collection. To 17 Apr: Portrait of the Artist. The first exhibition to focus on images of artists from the Royal Collection. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £10.30; child £5.30. www.royal collection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park.

Royal Academy of Arts Eighteenth-century apartments with RA Collection works in all media, including architecture. From 11 Feb: Revolution: Russian Art 1917–1932. Powerful exhibition explores this momentous period in history through art (p. 34). Fri 10am-10pm; Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; check for regular special events and free lunchtime concerts. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy. org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Saatchi Gallery

A lost genius He’s one of the most celebrated and unconventional Italian painters of the 17th century, yet Guido Cagnacci is not a well-known name in the UK. Discover his masterpiece in Cagnacci’s Repentant Magdalene at The National Gallery (from 15 Feb), a testament to his genius not seen in this country for more than 30 years. Cagnacci’s works are often religious and sensual, even erotic at times – a combination that earned him a reputation as one of the most eccentric and recognisable artists of his era. Sadly, he was largely forgotten in the 18th and 19th centuries. This large canvas is well worth seeing before it’s whisked back to America again.

Groundbreaking contemporary art in a renovated Georgian building, covering 70,000 square feet. To 28 Feb: Painters’ Painters. Nine present day painters who already inspire the next generation of artists. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchigallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Serpentine Gallery A respected arts space in Kensington Gardens displaying modern work. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Serpentine Sackler Gallery The National Gallery

England’s first public art gallery, founded in 1811, holds one of the finest collections of Old Masters. The building was designed by Sir John Soane. From 8 Feb: Vanessa Bell (1879-1961). Around 100 paintings, ceramics, fabrics and photographs arranged thematically to explore the artist’s pioneering work. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5pm; closed bank holidays. Adult £7; child free; charges for special exhibitions. www.dulwich picturegallery.org.uk. Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5354. Off map. Station: West Dulwich/ North Dulwich.

One of the world’s great galleries, with works by masters from Monet to Leonardo da Vinci. From 15 Feb: Cagnacci’s Repentant Magdalene. See Cagnacci’s masterpiece, on view in the UK for the first time in over 30 years. To 26 Mar: Australia’s Impressionists. The first UK exhibition to focus on Impressionism in Australia. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Guildhall Art Gallery

British history told through the portraiture. To 5 Feb: Picasso Portraits. Focuses on the artist’s portrayal of family, friends and lovers. To 26 Feb: Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize 2016. Portraits by photographers from around the world. Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular Late Shift special events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Pl, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Art from 1670 to the present day. At the new Heritage Gallery, you can see treasures including William Shakespeare’s First Folio. Mon-Sat 10am5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 0207332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts) Galleries, a book shop, a bar and cinemas. From 1 Feb: Sonia Boyce: We Move in Her Way. A body of of multimedia interdisciplinary work, created especially for the ICA. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Adult £1; child free. www.ica.org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery

Newport Street Gallery Damien Hirst’s huge new gallery exhibits work from his extensive art collection. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.newportstreetgallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320. G8. Station: Vauxhall/Lambeth North.

Previously The Magazine Building, this arts space was designed by archictect Zaha Hadid. To 12 Feb: Zaha Hadid. Paintings and drawings by the pioneering and visionary architect. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegallery.org. West Carriage Drive, Kensington Gardens, W2 2AR. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Tate Britain Traditional and contemporary British art. From 9 Feb: David Hockney. The influential British artists returns with a comprehensive exhibition (p. 14). To 5 Mar: Paul Nash. A lifetime’s work including his World War II paintings. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern International modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station, plus installations. From 15 Feb: Wolfgang Tillmans. Photographs, video, publications, curatorial projects and recorded music by the artist. To 7 May: The Radical Eye: Modernist Photography from the Sir Elton John Collection. A chance to see one of the world’s greatest private photography collections. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

Guido Cagnacci’s The Repentant Magdalene © Norton Simon Art Foundation

Dulwich Picture Gallery

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LONDON. LOOK AGAIN.

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Guido Cagnacci’s The Repentant Magdalene © Norton Simon Art Foundation

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: Othello; Sam Wanamaker Playhouse; Hamlet Inset: Almeida Theatre

Shaking up Shakespeare You can pick a play according to your mood this month, as three of William Shakespeare’s classic stories – a romantic drama and two tragedies – are being staged at major venues in London. The first, The Winter’s Tale, is an opera at the London Coliseum (from 27 Feb; p. 42). The world premiere is an interpretation by the English National Opera’s resident composer, Ryan Wigglesworth, and is directed by the Olivier Award-winning actor Rory Kinnear. The opera is accessible to an international audience as it is sung in English, with subtitles projected above the stage. Kinnear explains: ‘The cast’s commitment to singing in English is a great democratising force for opera audiences in this country.’ The story follows a jealous king who wrongly believes his wife Hermione has been unfaithful. The cast includes Iain Paterson as King Leontes, Sophie Bevan as Queen Hermione and Samantha Price in the role of Perdita. Leigh Melrose stars as Leontes’ friend turned foe, Polixenes.

Kinnear adds: ‘I’ve done about six or seven Shakespeare plays but the one that’s always been the big shining beacon in my mind and heart is The Winter’s Tale. There’s something about its sense of loss and regret that has always chimed with me. In the past seven or eight years, opera has become one of the greatest passions of my life.’ If the dark nights match your mood, then Ellen McDougall’s Othello at the Sam

Wanamaker Playhouse at Shakespeare’s Globe (from 23 Feb; p. 44) might suit you better. Again, the theme of jealousy runs through this tragedy, which is about a man envious of his commander’s success and power. The play sees Othello turn against his loving partner, Desdemona, after his spiteful colleague Iago manipulates him. Meanwhile, the associate director of the Almeida Theatre in Islington, Robert Icke, is directing a new fringe production of Hamlet (from 17 Feb). Bafta-winner Andrew Scott takes the lead as Prince Hamlet, who suspects foul play when his uncle promptly marries his mother Gertrude and becomes king following his father’s death. When his father’s ghost confirms Hamlet’s suspicions, he sets about avenging the murder. Shakespeare veteran Juliet Stevenson plays Gertrude (Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA). Emotions may be running high throughout the three productions, but you’ll be green with envy if you miss out. Snap up tickets while you still can.

othello © Dan Hillier; sam wanamaker theatre courtesy of shakespeare’s globe; hamlet © Miles Aldridge; almeida theatre © Philip Vile

Three of the Bard’s greatest works are being staged in the city this month. Whether you want to wallow in a tragedy or lighten your mood with a romantic drama, Sarah Riches finds there’s a Shakespeare classic to suit everyone

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice and a real magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £39.75-£141.25. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Amaluna To 26 Feb: Prepare to be wowed by Cirque du Soleil’s acrobats and an unusual balancing act. Please check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8282. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Beautiful – The Carole King Musical Musical about the early life and career of the award-winning singer-songwriter. Mon & WedSat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£72.50. www.beautifulmusical.co.uk. Aldwych Theatre, 49 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Book of Mormon This controversial satire follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Winner of four Olivier Awards. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £27.50-£200. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Dreamgirls Glee TV star Amber Riley plays Effie White in this musical about the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£145. www.savoy theatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Girls

Kinky Boots

Take That star Gary Barlow has teamed up with his friend Tim Firth – the writer of the film Calendar Girls – to create this musical, which, like the film, is inspired by a true story. It follows a group of Yorkshire women who stripped for a Women’s Institute calendar, which was all in aid of charity. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£69.50. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Fun musical about a shoe factory which reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Half a Sixpence Catch Cameron Mackintosh’s musical theatre version of HG Wells’s semi-autobiographical novel Kipps: The Story of a Simple Soul, which follows Arthur Kipps, an orphan and over-worked draper’s assistant who unexpectedly inherits a fortune that propels him into high society. His childhood companion, Ann Pornick, watches with dismay as the beautiful Helen Walsingham gives Arthur a makeover. Both young women love him – but which of them should he listen to? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£77.50. www.halfasixpence.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in postrevolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £39.75-£127.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Disney’s The Lion King This wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film has ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry (p. 44). Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm (also 14 Feb). Tickets £45.20£152.20. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Lizzie

A Tony Award-winning musical about young love, set on the streets of Washington Heights in New York. Please check for times. Tickets £22.50-£59.50. www.intheheightslondon.com. King’s Cross Theatre, Corner of King’s Boulevard and Goods Way, N1C 4UR. T: 0844-871 7604. Off map. Station: King’s Cross.

From 22 Feb: Four women front a six-piece rock band in this new American musical, based on a true story. Set on a sweltering summer morning in 1892 in a New England city, a prominent businessman and his wife are axed to death at home. Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 4pm. Please check for prices. www.lizziemusical.co.uk. Greenwich Theatre, Crooms Hill, SE10 8ES. T: 020-8858 7755. Off map. Station: Greenwich.

Jersey Boys

Mamma Mia!

In the Heights

The hit Olivier Award-winning story of US pop sensations Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons. Songs include You’re Just too Good to be True. Check for days and times. Tickets £24.50-£125. www.jerseyboyslondon.com. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Party time! Manhattan, 1928. It’s the Roaring Twenties and Queenie should be having the time of her life – yet the Vaudeville showgirl is troubled, and decides to throw a gin-soaked party where she meets a handsome stranger. Based on a book by Joseph Moncure March, The Wild Party (from 13 Feb; p. 44) was a hit when Toni Collette starred as Queenie on Broadway in 2000 – and the musical scooped up seven Tony Award nominations. Now the show is coming to The Other Palace Theatre (formerly St James Theatre), directed and choreographed by Olivier Award-winner Drew McOnie. Expect ballads, lively melodies, flapper dresses and a whole lotta gin.

A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. MonSat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm (and 14 Feb). Tickets £15-£72.50. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (and 16 Feb); Sun 3pm. Tickets £20-£67.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Motown the Musical Brilliant feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson and The Jackson 5, Stevie Wonder, Marvin Gaye and The Temptations. By the end of the night you’ll be Dancing in the Street. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm (and 14 Feb). Tickets £19.50£175. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.80-£128.50. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

the wild party © Fern Berresford

Musicals & Performances

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ENTERTAINMENT Promises, Promises To 18 Feb: Burt Bacharach’s tunes

bring alive a book by the playwright Neil Simon in this hit Broadway musical based on the Billy Wilder film The Apartment. A New York insurance worker faces a moral dilemma when he’s promised a promotion in return for him allowing his midtown flat to be used for ‘entertaining’ – especially when his manager invites the woman he’s fallen for. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 3pm. Tickets £25. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and is a smash here, too. Mon, Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£99.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Stomp An award-winning fusion of theatre, dance, comedy and rhythmic percussion. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; occasional Weds. Tickets £26-£57.50. www.stomplondon. co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Songs in the show include I Want You Back, ABC, Can You Feel It, Off the Wall, The Way You Make Me Feel, Smooth Criminal, Beat It, Billie Jean and Dirty Diana. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 4pm & 8pm; Sun 3.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £30£90.50. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Wedding Reception

London Coliseum

11, 17-18 & 24-25 Feb: Will and Kate dreamed of

Home to the English National Opera. All productions are sung in English. From 27 Feb: The Winter’s Tale. This world premiere is composed by the English National Opera’s resident composer, Ryan Wigglesworth – who also conducts – and is directed by the Olivier Award-winning actor Rory Kinnear. The story follows a jealous king who, wrongly believing his wife Hermione has been unfaithful, Wicked the Musical banishes his newborn daughter from the kingdom. When Dorothy famously triumphed Unbeknown to the king, baby Perdita is rescued over the Wicked Witch, we only ever heard one by a shepherd’s family and in time, the king feels side of the story. This award-winning musical, repentant – but is he too late (p. 38)? based on Gregory Maguire’s acclaimed 7.30pm. Tickets £12-£99. 2-28 Feb: 1995 novel, tells the brilliant back story Rigoletto. This tragic story of jealousy, of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes vengeance and sacrifice is one Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat of Verdi’s most popular operas. Shakespeare’s Globe 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets Jonathan Miller’s much-loved ‘Mafia’ has London’s only £19.50-£125. www.wickedthemusical. production makes a welcome return thatched roof since co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, to the ENO stage, relocating the the Great Fire 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 action to New York’s Little Italy in the of 1666 3001. F7. Station: Victoria. 1950s. Please check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross. having an intimate wedding reception – but their family had other ideas. As a guest, you’ll enjoy a three-course dinner and a hilarious improvised show. Enjoy! 7.30pm-10pm. Tickets £38-£43. www.interactivetheatre.com. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. T: 0845-154 4145. D8. Station: Holborn.

Opera Barbican

25 Feb: Met Opera Live in HD: Rusalka (Dvorak). Kristine Opolais stars in a new production of the opera that first won her international acclaim, Dvorak’s fairytale opera about the tragic water nymph Rusalka. Sir Mark Elder conducts Mary Zimmerman’s new staging, which also stars Brandon Jovanovich as the human prince who captures Rusalka’s heart; Katarina Dalayman as Rusalka’s rival, the Foreign Princess; Eric Owens as the Water Sprite, Rusalka’s father; and Jamie Barton as the duplicitous witch. 5.55pm. Please check for prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Top Pick

Royal Opera House To 9 Feb: Il Trovatore. The first revival of David Bösch’s new production for The Royal Opera, with two casts including Maria Agresta, Lianna Haroutounian, Anita Rachvelishvili and Dmitri Hvorostovsky. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Plays A Midsummer Night’s Dream From 16 Feb: A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Dark fantasies and nightmarish visions unfold in this new, bold take on Shakespeare’s tale of love, betrayal and desire. Director Joe Hill-Gibbins teams up with designer Johannes Schütz (Three Sisters) to dive into the subconscious of Shakespeare’s masterpiece. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (except 18 & 22 Feb). Tickets: £10-£36. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.

Art

The Boys in the Band

Unhappily married A new production of Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf? is coming to the Harold Pinter Theatre (from 22 Feb; p. 44). Directed by James Macdonald, the play is based on the classic 1962 Broadway play by the late playwright Edward Albee, which inspired the 1966 film starring Elizabeth Taylor. This version stars Bafta-winner Imelda Staunton (above) as Martha alongside Olivier Award-winner Conleth Hill, from Game of Thrones, as her husband George. They play a couple who rely on fantasy and delusion to retreat from their unhappy marriage.

7-18 Feb: Mark Gatiss stars in the first major revival of this iconic play in two decades. Set in 1968, nine men gather in a New York apartment for a birthday celebration. Harold (Gatiss) receives a surprise present from his friend Emory (James Holmes), in the form of a beautiful male hustler. Meanwhile, party host Michael (Ian Hallard) gets an unwanted surprise of his own. As the booze is drunk and the dope smoked, the mood swings from hilarity to heartbreak. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £20-£50. www.nimaxtheatres.com. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

imelda staunton courtesy of harold pinter theatre

To 18 Feb: Matthew Warchus directs this play – which has been a global phenomenon celebrating its 20th anniversary – about friendship, prejudice and tolerance. The show stars Tim Key, Paul Ritter and Rufus Sewell. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 3pm. Tickets £16-£65. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

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An absorbing one-hour grand tour of the Royal Albert Hall followed by a luxurious afternoon tea food & drink by

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ENTERTAINMENT

Comedy about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£49.50. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time Adaptation of Mark Haddon’s novel about a boy with learning difficulties who uncovers more than expected when investigating a local mystery. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £18-£92.50. www.curiousonstage.com. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.

Death Takes a Holiday In Italy shortly after World War I, Death disguises himself as a handsome prince in a bid to understand why life is so cherished and death so dreaded. When he falls head over heels for a woman who is already engaged, he discovers that the power of love is often stronger than death. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed 2.30pm; Sat 3pm. Tickets £17.50-£39.50. Charing Cross Theatre, The Arches, Villiers St, WC2N 6NL. T: 0844-493 0650. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The Dresser The show must go on! This comedy, set during World War II, is about an actor who is so unwilling to play King Lear, his dresser ends up taking the part. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed 2.30pm; Sat 3pm. Tickets £17.50-£39.50. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Thur-Sat 7pm; Sat 1pm; Sun 1pm & 6pm; Tickets £59-£69. www.faultytowers-uk.com. The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0845-154 4145. E8. Station: Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8. Station: Holborn.

The Kite Runner Based on Khaled Hosseini’s best-selling novel, this new play is set in Kabul, Afghanistan, during a kite competition just as the country is on the verge of war. But childhood friends Hassan and Amir don’t foresee the terrible incident which will shatter their lives forever. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £14.75-£91.75. www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Tue 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £17.50-£67.50. www.the-mousetrap. co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Nice Fish To 11 Feb: Direct from a sold-out season in New York, Academy and Bafta Awardwinner Mark Rylance returns to the West End to perform in this comic play about two men fishing on a frozen lake. Check for times. Tickets £15-£59.50. www.atgtickets.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Othello From 23 Feb: The theme of jealousy runs

through this tragedy about a man envious of his commander’s success and power. The play sees Othello turn against his loving partner, Desdemona, after his spiteful colleague Iago manipulates him (p. 38). Please check for times. Tickets £10-£62. Sam Wanamaker Theatre, Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£67.50. www.the playthatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Roundelay From 23 Feb: Sex at 70? Falling in love at 65?

Coming out at 62? Visible, a new company for older performers, performs this circus-slash-dance-slashmusic show, which is inspired by the scandalous classic play La Ronde/Reigen. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Tue & Sat 3pm. Tickets £12-£20. www.southwarkplayhouse. co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Saint Joan To 18 Feb: Gemma Arterton – star of St Trinian’s and Quantum of Solace – takes the lead in this tragedy about a 1431 trial of a young peasant, Joan of Arc, who was tortured and sentenced to life imprisonment after claiming to have visions of saints and angels. Joan chose to be burnt at the stake instead, and 25 years after her death was posthumously deemed a saint. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £7.50-£40. www.donmarwarehouse.com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Travesties From 3 Feb: Following a sell-out run at the Menier Chocolate Factory, Patrick Marber’s revival of Tom Stoppard’s war-time comedy transfers to the West End. Set primarily in Zürich, Switzerland, Travesties follows English diplomat Henry Carr (Tom Hollander) during World War I. Living in the city, Henry surrounds himself with Communist revolutionary Lenin, Tristan Tzara and Irish writer James Joyce – as well as Gwendolen and Cecily from Oscar Wilde’s The Importance of Being Earnest.. Premiering at the Aldwych Theatre in 1974, the original production won a Tony Award. Mon-Sat 7.30pm (15 Feb 7pm); Wed & Sat 2.30pm (not 15 Feb). Tickets £24.25-£102. www. apollotheatrelondon.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. Off map. Station: Victoria.

Have a wild night out at the award-winning The Lion King (p. 40)

Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf? From 22 Feb: Starring Olivier Award-winners Imelda Staunton (Gypsy, Sweeney Todd); Conleth Hill (Game Of Thrones, The Producers) and Luke Treadaway (The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time) and Imogen Poots in her West End debut. Martha, much to her husband George’s displeasure, has invited new professor Nick and his wife Honey to their home on an American college campus for some after-party drinks. As the alcohol flows and dawn approaches, the young couple are drawn into George and Martha’s toxic games until the evening reaches its climax in a moment of devastating truth-telling (p. 42). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£80. www.whosafraidofvirginiawoolf.co.uk. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Wild Party From 13 Feb: Set against a backdrop of Manhattan decadence and 1920s excess, The Wild Party tells the story of Queenie and Burrs, a Vaudeville showgirl and a Vaudeville clown whose relationship is marked by vicious behaviour and recklessness. In an attempt to salvage their toxic union, they decide to throw a party to end all parties. The guests are a vivid collection of the unruly and the undone: a cocaine-sniffing bisexual playboy; a washed-up boxer; a diva of indeterminate age; a fresh-faced ingénue; and a handsome Valentino who catches Queenie’s roving eye. The jazz and gin-soaked party rages to a mounting sense of threat, as illusion is stripped away. But when midnight debauchery turns into tragedy, the revellers must sober up and face reality. After all, no party lasts forever (p. 40). Mon-Sat, please check for times. Tickets £5-£65. www.theotherpalace.co.uk. The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844-264 2140. Off map. Station: Victoria.

The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £19.50-£49.50. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS Flamenco Festival 15-26 Feb: Festival celebrating gypsy folk dance and guitar music (p. 7). Be wowed by fast footwork from Sara Baras and contemporary flamenco from Compañia Olga Pericet, Farruquito & Farruco and Marco Flores & Olga Pericet, or catch Belén Maya and Patricio Hidalgo performing a dance inspired by painting. You can also listen to the gypsy singer Esperanza Fernández or El Niño de Elche, whose songs are inspired by contemporary poetry. Meanwhile, guitarist Daniel Casares and double bassist Adam Ben Ezra will perform new pieces and familiar tunes, as the Latin Grammy Award-winner Vicente Amigo performs tracks from his latest album, Tiarra. Please check for times. Tickets £12-£42. www.sadlers wells. com. Rosebery Avenue, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. C9. Station: Angel.

THE LION KING © DISNEY

The Comedy about a Bank Robbery

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ENTERTAINMENT Imagine Children’s Festival

The Hunting Lodge

9-19 Feb: Families can enjoy a host of mostly

Daisy knows, better than anyone, what it takes to get your man. Sometimes what you want falls into your lap. Sometimes you have to fight for it. Because you’re worth it, right? Suitable for over 11s. Please check for times. Adult £16; child £10. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10. Station: London Bridge.

free music, theatre and literary events. In 2016 there was an ugly bake-off and rap contest; this year’s Nordic focus brings children’s author Astrid ‘Pippi Longstocking’ Lindgren and Swedish Maja Sten’s illustrations inspired by imaginary friends (p. 8). www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Children & Families Babe, the Sheep-Pig To 5 Feb: Enjoy this play, which tells the cute story about a polite piglet who hangs with the sheep, inspired by a film and book. Ideal for children aged five to 11. Check for times. Adult £18.50; child £12. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

How to Hide a Lion for Toddlers

The Iron Man has been eating every single piece of metal in sight: tractors, old cars, fences – right down to the last rusty nail, destroying farms everywhere. The angry farmers try to trap him, but in the end it’s down to a young boy to attempt to tame the monster. Suitable for over eights. Please check for times. Adult £16; child £10. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Concerts: Classical Barbican Centre 17 Feb: BBC Symphony Orchestra/Volkov. Rachmaninov’s final symphony concludes a concert that includes Franz Schreker’s interlude from his opera Der ferne Klang and a new work by Nicola LeFanu. 7.30pm. 24-25 Feb: Noh Time like the Present. A rare opportunity to experience the 650-year-old art of Noh and the genius of Akira Matsui in performance as part of a bold collaboration with Western ballet, opera, poetry,

Cadogan Hall Classical events hall. 4 Feb: Taro Hakase. The violinist is accompanied by pianist Maciej Janas and cellist Tim Lowe. Maciej has been touring with Taro in Japan since 2004 and this September saw the release of his solo album in Japan. Taro, Maciej and Tim will also be joined by a small string ensemble, created especially for the evening. 7.30pm. 8 Feb: The Sixteen. This choir sings Bach’s masterpiece, Magnificat. Performed alongside this will be a selection of Bach’s Cantatas and Brandenburg Concerto No 3. 7.30pm. Please check for prices. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Royal Albert Hall London’s premiere music hall, home to the annual BBC Proms. 15 Feb: Alber’s Band Presents: Symphonic Safari. Kevin Hathway leads Albert’s Band in this fun and interactive introduction to classical music related to the animal kingdom. Suitable for families. 11.15am. Please check for prices. 24 Feb: Free Friday Music – Will Bartlett. Having studied classical and jazz piano at Oxford University and at the Guildhall School of Music, Bartlett is now one of the UK’s most in-demand jazz pianists. 8pm. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. South Kensington.

the lion king © Disney

To 26 Feb: This delightful play tells the story of a lion who is chased out of town and a young girl who helps him find somewhere to hide. It’s not easy because lions are big, fluffy and heavy! To 14 Feb suitable for one to two year olds; 15-26 Feb suitable for three to six year olds. Please check for times. Tickets £12.50. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

The Iron Man

music and theatre. 7pm. Please check for prices. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

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ENTERTAINMENT Royal Festival Hall 9 Feb: To celebrate the Year of the Rooster,

conductor Long Yu and the Philharmonia Orchestra will perform alongside top musicians from the East and West at London’s first Chinese New Year Gala Concert. 7.30pm-10pm. Tickets £15-£65. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp. org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. www.smitf.org. St Martin-inthe-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Wigmore Hall Famous concert hall for regular recitals. 4 Feb: Takács Quartet. The Takács Quartet begins with the first of Beethoven’s Op. 18 pieces, a mighty four-movement work that contributed to the composer’s emergence as a master of the string quartet. 7.30pm. Tickets £15-£40. 11 Feb: Nash Ensemble and Soprano Claire Booth. The 7.30pm show also features Richard Hosford on the clarinet. 5.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £5-£36. www.wigmorehall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Concerts: Pop, Jazz & World Cadogan Hall 1 Feb: Rumours of Fleetwood Mac. Tribute band. 14 Feb: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. Everlasting

Love: Songs of the 60s. Conducted by Richard Balcombe. 17 Feb: Instant Sunshine 50th Anniversary Concert. Singing doctors’ group of Radio 4 fame celebrate 50 years of entertaining audiences with their comical anecdotal songs. 18 Feb: Brit Floyd – Pink Floyd Immersion World Tour 2017. Rocker Brit Floyd brings the music of Pink Floyd to life in a lavish new stage show. Please check for times and prices. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. F6. Station: Sloane Square.

The Jazz Café This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 1 Feb: Princess Nokia. New York rapper. 2 Feb: Beth Rowley. The British singer mixes vintage rhythm & blues, 60s soul and gospel music with contemporary pop. 14 Feb: A Night of Marvin Gaye. This Valentine’s Day special pays tribute to the Prince of Soul with a full live band playing his greatest hits from Sexual Healing to Let’s Get it On. Please check for times and prices. www.the jazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The O2 Enormous venue for live music. 8 Feb: Green Day. American Idiot, Basketcase and more. 11-12 Feb: Strictly Come Dancing. Watch the popular TV dance show live. 22 Feb: The Brit Awards. Annual pop music awards. 25 Feb: The X Factor Live Tour 2017. Popular reality-TV singing show, live. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich. 46 W H E R E Lo n d o n I F E B R UA R Y 2017

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Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 2-4 Feb: Dr Lonnie Smith Trio – Evolution. Psychedelic funk, gospel and jazz on an organ. Lonnie will be accompanied by Jonathan Kreisberg on guitar, and Joe Dyson on drums. 11-12 Feb: Pee Wee Ellis Funk Assembly. Blues saxophonist. 14 Feb: Valentine’s Day special with Natalie Williams and the American singer-songwriter of jazz, soul, pop, and dance, Brendan Reilly. Reilly has worked with Basement Jaxx, Laura Mvula, Florence + the Machine, Duffy and Rita Ora. Please check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

‘I DARE YOU NOT TO GET UP AND DANCE!’ SALLY BOAZMAN, BBC RADIO 2

DANCE London Coliseum Home to the English National Opera. Productions are sung in English. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House The Royal Ballet Company’s home base. To 14 Feb: Woolf Works. The first revival of Wayne McGregor’s ballet triptych to music by Max Richter, inspired by the works of Virginia Woolf and starring Alessandra Ferri and Mara Galeazzi. Check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Visit BeautifulinLondon.co.uk Call 0845 200 7981

Sadler’s Wells 3-4 Feb: Sampled. Argentinian world champion

tango dancers Julia Urruty and Claudio Gonzalez are returning once more alongside Spanish experimental B-boy crew Iron Sjulls Co’s Sinestesia. 9-12 Feb: Tanztheater Wuppertal Pina Bausch – Masurca Fogo. Bizarre work about desire and the human need for love. Dancers fling themselves down water slides, breathe into microphones, feed watermelon to a live chicken and cram into a beach hut for a party, all to a soundtrack that features k.d. lang, the Balanescu Quartet’s reinvention of German electronic band Kraftwerk and traditional African and Portuguese music. Please check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Rosebery Avenue, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

FILM BFI Southbank 15 Feb: BFI Flare Programme Launch. Exclusive

preview of the London LGBT Film Festival. To 28 Feb: Martin Scorsese Season. A season of films and short films by one of the most influential American directors of his generation. Fims showing include GoodFellas, The Last Waltz, Gangs of New York and Taxi Driver. www.bfi.org.uk. BFI Southbank, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XT. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Lounge at ODEON Whiteleys Watch films in the intimate screening rooms, with comfortable leather seats, while dining on an exclusive menu from chef Rowley Leigh, with the food served directly to your seat. Please check programme for films. www.odeon.co.uk/ thelounge. Whiteleys of Bayswater, Queensway, W2 4YL. T: 0871-2244 007. Off map. Station: Queensway. www.wheretraveler.com 47

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: Emilia Wickstead; behind the scenes; pop-up shop; Mary Katrantzou

Fashion for everyone London, we humbly declare, is the style capital of the world. Not Paris, New York or Milan. Instead it’s this mother of a city that has given birth to the three-piece suit, bowler hat and trench coat, which are worn the world over, and nurtured fashion trends from punk to the Sloane Ranger. Twice a year, British designers, including the eccentric, eclectic and ever-inventive, showcase their collections at London Fashion Week. Paul Smith, Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood are just some of the notable names. Now in its 34th year, the event brings in £100 million worth of orders and sets the trends you can expect for autumn and winter. A strange thing happens in town: well-dressed fashion editors, chic celebs and zany bloggers can be seen strutting from one catwalk show to another at iconic venues such as Somerset House and the Natural History Museum. While many of the shows are invite-only, London Fashion Week Festival (23-26 Feb),

which is formally known as London Fashion Weekend, gives you the chance to get a taste of the actual event. And this year, the festival is set to be even more fabulous, darling. Taking place in a new venue, The Store at 180 The Strand, it includes more surprises than before. Bag a front-row seat at a catwalk show from one of London’s latest designers; browse the pop-up shop that has more than 150 brands for men and women, including Alexander White, Ducie and House of Spring; or listen

to one of the talks delivered by industry experts. Panel discussions in the past have included ones by Sarah Shotton, creative director of Agent Provocateur; accessories designer Sophia Webster; and handbag queen Anya Hindmarch. Meanwhile, magazine editors can talk you through the latest trends, and personal stylists are on hand to offer wardrobe advice. Look out for hair and make-up stylists, too, who are ready to give you mini makeovers during the day. Each year a special tote bag is created by a leading fashion designer – previous designers have included Mary Katrantzou. The bags are given away to silver, gold and LUXE ticket holders, but they can be bought separately, too. The LUXE ticket holder’s bag will be filled with products from brands such as Toni & Guy, Maybelline and St Tropez. Strike a pose! London Fashion Week Festival, 23-26 Feb. The Store, 180 The Strand, WC2R 1EA. T: 0115-896 0030. www.londonfashionfestival.com

ALL IMAGES © SHAUN JAMES COX

The catwalk comes alive this month as the London Fashion Week Festival sashays into town. Kohinoor Sahota bags a front-row seat to discover the key style trends for 2017, from the traditional to the eccentric

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62-66 Bermondsey Street London SE1 3UD londonglassblowing.co.uk 0207 403 2800 Open: Mon - Sat, 10:00-18:00

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The Home of British Glass Art Since 1976 12/01/2017 11:24

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most shops are open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, Sun 11am-4pm, and some open late on Thur evening. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

Major Shopping Areas Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.

Canary Wharf This is a first-class shopping destination in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf.

Carnaby Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the Carnaby area appeals to the fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

One of the world’s biggest toy shops. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Edwardian food and meat halls, men’s, women’s and children’s fashion departments, cosmetics, spa, accessories and bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

House of Fraser Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

John Lewis

Jewellery & Watches Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Pandora Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Wempe Big selection of luxury jewellery and watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Kids’ stores Nickelodeon Products inspired by the TV channel’s shows. Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

Find fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted department store. Mon-Wed & Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Jermyn Street & St James’s

Liberty

Buckingham Palace Shop

The epitome of heritage combined with cuttingedge design. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royalcollectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

Hatton Garden

Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

King’s Road Once famous for upmarket and alternative fashion, it still attracts a stylish crowd. Peter Jones is good for homeware and Duke of York Square has trendy shops. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch/ Tottenham Court Road.

Regent Street Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious area includes Apple, Liberty, Swarovski, the first British Ferrari shop and Burberry. D6/D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus.

Savile Row One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy and Kilgour. E7. Station: Green Park.

Seven Dials

Selfridges The finest products in beauty and fashion, including exclusive and limited-edition products. Includes a large denim studio and new Body Studio with lingerie, nightwear and sportswear. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Malls & Factory Outlets Bicester Village Discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicester village.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

Westfield London

Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

This mall has more than 300 shops, from high-street names to high-end fashion labels. Children will also enjoy KidZania, where they can try out different careers. www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Fortnum & Mason

Westfield Stratford City

This British institution is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

With 270 shops. www.westfield. com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.

In the heart of Covent Garden are seven streets of independent boutiques, heritage brands and vintage stores. www.sevendials.co.uk. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

PADDINGTON BEAR COURTESY OF harrods

Hamleys

MAJOR STORES Fenwick

Specialist Stores

John Bell & Croyden The ‘Queen’s chemist’ also has a walk-in clinic for vaccinations. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

London Glassblowing Dazzling glass art plus workshops where you can create your own glass pieces. www.londonglass blowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

M&M’s World Sweet treats, including a giant M&M’s World and London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Twinings This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it’s been trading since 1706 – and is full of a variety of teas and infusions. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am- 5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop with a range of items created by talented British designers. www.webuiltthis city.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

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Estée Edit has opened itsC flagship store in Carnaby Street. Covering 700 square E T it’s a haven to make-up. Visit feet, E R N ST STREET BRUTO R D the F F O try before a night out C L Iand COACH & complimentary 15-minute H O R S E S skincare YARD service. Once you have tried on your S T it D upload F F O Rand C LaIpicture make-up, take to the Selfie Wall, which is filled with ON ST G R A F Tlive user-generated content. 46 Carnaby St, W1F 9PS. www.esteelauder.co.uk H AY H I L L

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Murdock London is home to a traditional barbershop with grooming services for men, from beard trims to wet shaves. It also includes a shop that sells high-end styling products, including skincare goods, colognes and shaving kits. 18 Monmouth St, WC2H 9HB. T: 020-3393 7946. www.murdocklondon.com

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SHOPPING

Shopping Essentials

SHIPPING COMPANIES If you are buying items that you don’t wish to carry home, here is a selection of central London companies that can assist in delivering your goods. Please check the websites below for your most convenient branch. DHL: Ryman, 227 Kensington High St, W8 6SA. T: 020-7937 1107 Ryman, 64 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3LQ. T: 020-7581 0858 Homebase, 195 Warwick Rd, W14 8PU. T: 020-7602 5125. www.dhl.co.uk

sizing shoes UK

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female shopper courtesy of westField; shop exterior courtesy of selfridges; carnaby street © iStock

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Mail Boxes etc: 72 Great Titchfield St, W1W 7QW. T: 020-7580 9111

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28 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3SS. T: 020-7581 2825 95 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1BZ. T: 020-7630 8123. www.mbe.co.uk Pack & Send: 124 N End Rd, W14 9PP. T: 020-7381 9000 417 Upper Richmond Rd, SW14 7PJ. T: 020-

8392 6990. www. packsend.co.uk UPS: Food & Wine, 20 Wellington St, WC2E 7DD. T: 0845-687 7877 Great Portland Street News, Great Portland St, W1W 5PS. T: 0845-687 7877 Londis, 77-79 Union St, SE1 1SG. T: 0845-687 7877. www.ups.com Post Office: The Plaza Oxford St, W1D 1LT 54-56 Great Portland St, W1W 7NE 111 Baker St, W1U 6SG 32a Grosvenor St, W1K 4PA 9 Russell Square, WC1B 5EQ All branches: T: 0845-611 2970. www.postoffice. co.uk

OPENING TIMES Opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 11am4pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

Tax-Free Shopping Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books, and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 53

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DINING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from left: Shuang Shuang; Barrafina; interior of Barrafina; The Riding House Café

Table for one There’s no shame in dining alone in London – in fact, in a city that never stops, it’s one of life’s great pleasures. Whether you’re visiting the capital on your own or just fancy some distraction-free feasting while you’re here, check out our top spots for solo dining, including award-winning restaurants and lesser-known local favourites. If you like a bit of culinary theatre while you eat, then head to the newly opened Popolo in Shoreditch, east London, where you’ll have views into the impressive open kitchen from your counter-top perch. The seasonal Italian small plates are hearty and unpretentious – we recommend the handmade pasta and creamy risottos (26 Rivington St, EC2A 3DU ). With its Michelin-starred past and nobookings policy, Spanish tapas restaurants Barrafina are the sensible choice for anyone looking for more than just your average solitary lunch or dinner. Don’t let the queue inside the Covent Garden branch put you off – as a solo diner, you’ll be ushered to a stool in no time,

where you can watch the chefs prepare classic tortillas and tantalising small plates of salt cod brandada, pork belly with mojo verde and chicken wings with harissa aioli. Service is swift but never rushed as the food is worth savouring (43 Drury Lane, WC2B 5AJ, and branches). At London’s first Chinese hot-pot specialist Shuang Shuang, you sit down at a sushistyle conveyor belt and choose authentic ingredients to add to your broth. Just like

fondue, you control what goes into the dish and how long to cook it for, and it’s a great conversation starter if you’re looking to meet new friends while you slurp (64 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6LU ). Few bar stools are as comfy as those at The Riding House Café, one of central London’s best-kept secrets for solo dining in style. Hop on to one of its elevated armchairs and enjoy modern British dishes from an enormous all-day menu, which features a ‘full and proper’ English breakfast, lobster lasagna and great Sunday roast options, plus cocktails galore so you can shift seamlessly from day into night (43-51 Great Titchfield St, W1W 7PQ). Don’t be surprised if you’re greeted like an old friend at José – a rustic, tiled corner restaurant in Bermondsey where people perch on stools (or stand) to eat small plates by the legendary chef José Pizarro. Just like the most authentic pincho places in Spain, the menu changes according to what looks good in the market that day (104 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UB ).

shuang shuang courtesy of shuang shuang; barrafina images courtesy of barrafina; the riding house cafÉ © Paul Winch-Furness

If you’re travelling alone this month and are put off by kissing couples everywhere you look, Sam Rogg has rounded up the counter-top dining spots that are perfect for solo diners

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch) D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to map coordinates (p. 72-73)

AmericaS (NORTH & SOUTH) Avenue Contemporary American dishes and wines in a Manhattan-style setting. Try the 800g grass-fed Charolais steak to share. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat brunch & D; Sun brunch only. www.avenuerestaurant.co.uk. 7-9 St James’s St, SW1A 1EE. T: 020-7321 2111. E7. Station: Green Park.

Chiltern Firehouse This hip hotel restaurant in an old fire station serves US-style dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chiltern firehouse.com. 1 Chiltern St, W1U 7PA. T: 020-7073 7676. D6. Station: Baker Street.

The Colony Grill Room The wood-panelled dining room in The Beaumont hotel evokes 1920s America with olde-world US grill fare. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.colonygrill room.com. The Beaumont, 8 Balderton St, W1K 6TN. T: 020-7499 9499. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Gaucho Great place for succulent Argentine steaks. Wine bar, wine boutique for tastings, supper lounge and entertainment available. ££££. Daily L & D (branches throughout London). www.gaucho restaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR. T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Goodman This premium New York steakhouse now has a loyal following in London. Quality US and British grain-fed beef come in a choice of T-bone, rib-eye sirloin and fillet, plus extras including lobster tail with garlic butter. All cuts are dry aged and hand cut in house. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodman restaurants.com. 26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 0207499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Planet Hollywood The huge London outlet of the international chain inspired by Tinseltown. The menu includes American favourites such as burgers, Texan tostados and pizzas. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywoodlondon.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforest cafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rileys Sports Bar

british (Modern) Aqua Shard Contemporary British cuisine and fantastic views. Mains include duck breast, roasted romanesco broccoli and West Country lamb loin. Afternoon tea is also available. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Butlers Restaurant Enjoy top English cuisine in a homely Mayfair restaurant. £££. Daily L & D. www.chesterfield mayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

This sports bar serves steak, burgers and an all-day breakfast. There are 34 screens, table football, ping pong and darts. £. Mon-Sun B, L & D. www.rileys sportsbars.co.uk. 80 Haymarket, SW1Y 4TE. T: 020-79300 393. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Cheneston’s

STK London

City Social

Dine in the ME London hotel’s steakhouse on British and American prime steaks. There is a raw bar, too.. ££££. Daily D (from 5pm). www.stkhouse. com. ME Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

This award-winning restaurant and bar from Jason Atherton boasts beautiful views across the city. £££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

JW Steakhouse

The Clove Club

Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged American USDA prime beef with a variety of sides, starters and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse. co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Set in elegant Shoreditch Town Hall in east London, this Michelin-starred restaurant focuses on innovative British dishes. £££. Tue-Sat L; Mon-Sat D. www.thecloveclub.com. Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old St, EC1V 9LT. T: 020-7729 6496. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint is more than 40 years old. It has lots of rock memorabilia, a funky décor and a fun atmosphere. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner. Steak house at the Hippodrome Casino. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodromecasino.com. Hippodrome Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Jackson + Rye American diner-style dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.jacksonrye.com. 56 Wardour St, W1D 4JG (and branches). T: 020-7437 8338. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Lima Qvintessenza courtesy of Qvintessenza

courtesy of barrafina; the riding house cafÉ © Paul Winch-Furness

Heliot Steak House

Michelin-starred contemporary Peruvian cuisine. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.limalondon.com. 31 Rathbone Place, W1T 1JH. T: 020-3002 2640. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Oblix Rise up to the 32nd floor of London landmark The Shard for ultra-sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill cuisine and amazing views. An ‘interactive sommelier station’ allows you to get involved in your wine choice. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The true taste of Italy Before opening the impossible-to-pronounce Qvintessenza, Alessandro Zavarise travelled all over Italy, sourcing artisan food and drink from small producers who don’t have the means to export their own products. Zavarise calls it ‘an eno-gourmetteria where Docg, Doc, Igt, Dop and Igp products [wines with controlled designation of origin] are in our DNA.’ Minutes from foodie paradise Borough Market, you can expect rustic dishes made from top-quality ingredients, such as burrata with 26-month-cured Parma ham, and carbonara di spada – a twist on the pasta dish with swordfish instead of bacon. 304 Borough High St, SE1 1JJ. T: 020-7403 9728. www.5essenza.com. F10. Station: London Bridge www.wheretraveler.com 55

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DINING Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

Morden & Lea

Greig’s

Experience the first London restaurant from this multi-award-winning superchef, with a menu influenced by historic British gastronomy. ££££. Daily L & D; booking essential. www.dinnerby heston.com. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Chef Mark Sargeant’s first central restaurant boasts excellent small plates and a laid-back vibe. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mordenandlea.com. 17 Wardour St, W1D 6PJ. T: 020-3764 2277. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Delightful ‘olde-worlde’ classic British cuisine in the heart of Mayfair. £££-££££. Daily L & D. www.greigs.com. 26 Bruton Place, W1J 6NG. T: 020-7629 5613. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Rabbit

Stunning four-floored venue includes a British brasserie, a private dining room, a lounge and cocktail bar, an art gallery and a courtyard with al fresco tables. Excellent Sunday roast lunch. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Fera at Claridge’s

Three brothers use locally sourced ingredients. £££. Mon D; Tue-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.rabbitrestaurant.com. 172 King’s Rd, SW3 4UP. T: 0203750 0172. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

At this beautiful Art Deco restaurant, chef Simon Rogan serves wonderful food made with organic ingredients. Intimate six-seater dining room Aulis allows guests to try multiple dishes and get up close and personal with the chefs. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges.co.uk/fera. Claridge’s Hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Check out the mural in this Tate Britain restaurant as you dine on dishes such as Gressingham duck breast. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Garfunkel’s

St Pancras Grand

A range of popular British dishes, plus pizzas, pasta, wraps and the famous salad bar. Many West End and central locations. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.garfunkels.co.uk. 19 Irving St, WC2H 7AU (and branches). T: 020-7930 8087. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the iconic Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.british museum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Rex Whistler Restaurant

Brasserie located in St Pancras International station. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 0207870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Tom’s Kitchen Delightful all-day brasserie serving modern comfort food. Popular for weekend brunch. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tomskitchen.co.uk. 27 Cale St, SW3 3QP (and branches). T: 0207349 0202. Off map. Station: South Kensington.

Mews of Mayfair

Old Masters Carvery and Grill Room Dine under ornate chandeliers and high ceilings in this popular buffet-style carvery. ££££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

Park Terrace Located in the Royal Garden Hotel London, the restaurant overlooks Kensington Gardens. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.parkterracerestaurant.co.uk. 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7937 8000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The Ritz Restaurant

British (Traditional)

One of London’s prettiest dining rooms. Men must wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.the ritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Holborn Dining Room

Café in the Crypt

Smart brasserie adjoining the Rosewood hotel serving classic British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborndiningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

Underneath this Palladian church, this café serves English food at reasonable prices. £. Mon-Sat B; daily L. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, corner of Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Rules Solidly British, long-established historical restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens ate. Hearty appetites are needed to enjoy dishes such as brown Windsor soup with Welsh rarebit and steak, kidney and oyster pudding. ££££. Daily L & D. www.rules. co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Covent Garden.

Serpentine Bar & Kitchen The restaurant’s terrace beside the Serpentine lake is the perfect place to relax. Enjoy British classics such as fish and chips. £. Daily B & L. www.benugo.com/restaurants/serpentinebar-kitchen. Serpentine Rd, Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 020-7706 8114. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar Relaxed bar-restaurant in Theatreland. Try the Aberdeen Angus roast beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB (and Chelsea branch). T: 020-7836 8836. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Wolseley

Tasty tapas When the latest branch of Tapas Brindisa opened in Shoreditch recently, its reputation meant it was busy just a fortnight later. Sociable types can sit at the counter near the open kitchen, while the tables by the outdoor terrace are more intimate. Try the seafood paella with fideuà, a Valencian variety made with short fideo noodles, along with delicious garlic prawns in sizzling olive oil or potato cubes drizzled in a spicy tomato sauce and garlic mayonnaise. The décor is minimalist, with plants and monochrome pictures, which means that all eyes are on the food. 152 Curtain Rd, EC2A 3AT. T: 020-7749 9961. www.brindisakitchens.com. C10. Station: Old Street

Chinese Bright Courtyard Club Wonderful, top-notch Cantonese and Shanghai dishes in a sophisticated setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.brightcourtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Chai Wu Located in Harrods, this modern restaurant is inspired by the five elements in Chinese philosophy. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (to 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

tapas brindisa courtesy of tapas brindisa

The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.

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Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away Put the power of WhereÂŽ in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

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DINING

For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist

Maze

Multi-award-winning restaurant and bar with modern Chinese cuisine which justifies the hype. It has been going strong for more than a decade. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Modern European dishes are given an Asian twist at Gordon Ramsay’s award-winning restaurant. £££. Daily L & D. www.gordonramsayrestaurants. com/maze. 10-13 Grosvenor Square, W1K 6JP. T: 020-7495 2211. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Min Jiang Take in the glorious views across Hyde Park while enjoying superb Sichuan cuisine. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 0207361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.

Ping Pong Tasty dim sum, plus excellent rice dishes, with a good vibe. ££. Daily L & D. www.pingpong dimsum.com. 45 Great Marlborough St, W1F 7JL (and branches). T: 020-7851 6969. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Royal China Club This huge Cantonese restaurant is especially popular for its dim sum, served every lunchtime. ££. Daily L & D. www.royalchinagroup.co.uk. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches). T: 0207487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.

R CHOCOLATE Got a sweet tooth? Founded by self-confessed chocoholic Sir Evelyn de Rothschild, this new chocolate shop and patisserie in Belgravia (above) is a welcoming spot to enjoy an afternoon spread of sweet delights. Feast on strawberry mousse with pistachio biscuit, lemon drizzle cake, Victoria sponge and mini chocolate loaf paired with French sparkling wine that even tastes of chocolate itself. Look out for chocolate masterclasses, truffle-making sessions and personalised caramel classes throughout the year – with the finished products packaged in a beautiful box, ready to take home as a delicious souvenir. 198 Ebury St, SW1W 8UN

THE BRITISH MUSEUM After exploring the many wonders of London’s leading museum, head to its Great Court Restaurant and dine under the landmark’s magnificent roof. Savouries include Provençal red pepper and goat’s cheese tart, Irish beef pastrami and rocket brioche, and cured salmon and dill cream cheese bagel. Get your sugar fix from homemade pastries served alongside freshly brewed tea or coffee, optional bubbles and traditional British scones, served with clotted cream and jam. Daily from 3pm. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG

THE DELAUNAY Enjoy a slice of Austria with a Viennese afternoon tea at this Covent Garden gem. You’ll begin with a choice of teas or coffees, plus assorted sandwiches and savouries before feasting on poppy seed Gugelhupfs with apricot jam and whipped cream (traditional fruit scones are also available) and a selection of classic Viennese cakes. Every pastry is made on-site – we recommend the lemon and pistachio mille-feuille, Sachertorte, and coffee and Stroh rum cake. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB

Yauatcha Sleek, award-winning dim sum restaurant from Alan Yau, set in the heart of Soho. To mark Chinese New Year, enjoy red petits gateaux, a red cocktail using the Chinese spirit baijiu and a red dim sum platter (until 11th Feb). £££. Daily L & D. www.yauatcha.com. 15-17 Broadwick St, W1F 0DL. T: 020-7494 8888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Contemporary European 1 Lombard Street Gutsy, modern cooking. Brasserie £££; Restaurant ££££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L. www.1lombard street.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

Belowzero This sophisticated and sexy basement restaurant and lounge is attached to the famous Ice Bar, created from ice. Choose from small plates, or opt for mains such as flat-iron steak with king oyster mushrooms and baby onions. Sat L; TueSat D. www.belowzerolondon.com. 31-33 Heddon St, W1B 4BN. T: 020-7478 8910. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Delaunay Situated in Theatreland, this venue’s interior and menu are inspired by central Europe’s grand cafés. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern haute cuisine. Booking essential; smart dress. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvin atwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Ivy One of London’s great venues and a favourite with celebrities. Good for a pre- or post-theatre dinner. £££-££££. Daily L & D. Last orders at midnight. www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

OXO Tower Elegant, popular riverside restaurant with stunning views and excellent food, perfect for special occasions. ££££. Brasserie L & pre-theatre menu. £££. Daily L & D. www.harveynichols.com. Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.

Skylon Glamorous dining with panoramic river views. Try the roasted monkfish tail with white bean stew. ££££. Daily L & D. www.skylonrestaurant.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7654 7800. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Ting Located on level 35 of The Shard, this restaurant serves European dishes with an Asian influence. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Fish & Seafood Angler Michelin-starred seafood using seasonal and local produce. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.angler restaurant.com. South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, EC2M 2AF. T: 020-3215 1260. D10. Station: Moorgate.

J Sheekey Chic fish restaurant. Dishes include oysters, crab and spicy prawns. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mr Fish Enjoy traditional British fish and chips, or try halibut or sea bass fried in breadcrumbs. £. Daily L & D. www.mrfishuk.com. 51 Salusbury Rd, NW6 6NJ. T: 020-7624 8181. Off map. Station: Queen’s Park.

Poppie’s Traditional fish and chip shop decorated with 1950s memorabilia, offering table service or takeaway (p. 62). £. Daily L & D. www.poppiesfish andchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sea Shell Stick with classic fish and chips, or try dishes such as goujons of lemon sole, in this much-loved institution. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.seashellrestaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.

FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food and a setting to dress up for from this Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. You must book. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Aubaine Combination of a Parisian salon and a Provençal bistro. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.aubaine.co.uk. 260-262 Brompton Rd, SW3 2AS (and branches). T: 020-7052 0100. F5. Station: South Kensington.

AFTERNOON TEA COURTESY OF r chocolate

Time for tea

Hakkasan

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: amaya@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday. Saturday Brunch with live jazz music. 73 St Jamesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: chutneymary@realindianfood.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: veeraswamy@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING Blanchette

Clos Maggiore

Sketch

Classic bistro serving classic and inventive French food. Excellent charcuterie plates, homemade terrines and cheese. ££. Daily L & D. www.blanchettesoho.co.uk. 9 D’Arblay St, W1F 8DR. T: 020-7439 8100. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Exquisite dining room with one of the best wine lists in London. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.clos maggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Bel Canto

Imaginative Michelin-starred French cuisine from Gascony and an award-winning wine list. £££-££££. Tue-Fri L; Mon-Sat D. www.clubgascon.com. 57 West Smithfield, EC1A 9DS. T: 020-7600 6144. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Five restaurants and bars under one roof. Head to the Gallery – a stylish gastro brasserie with one-of-a-kind furniture – or the Lecture Room & Library, which is Michelin-starred. Afternoon tea in the Glade lounge. £££. Mon-Sat D. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 0870-777 4488. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Waiters (music students) perform opera while you dine in a restaurant decorated with musical instruments. Two-course set D £54; three-course £59. £££. Wed-Sat D. www.belcantolondon.co.uk. Corus Hotel Hyde Park, 1 Lancaster Gate, W2 3LG. T: 020-7262 1678. E4. Station: Lancaster Gate.

Boundary Sir Terence Conran’s modern French restaurant, located in trendy Shoreditch. £££. Tue-Sat D. www.theboundary.co.uk/restaurant/food. 2-4 Boundary St, E2 7DD. T: 020-7729 1051. Off map. Station: Shoreditch High Street.

Brasserie Joël This French brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare and tournedos Rossini. ££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Club Gascon

Galvin Bistrot de Luxe

The Eagle

The highly regarded Galvin brothers’ classic Parisian-style bistro. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvinrestaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.

One of London’s first gastropubs, The Eagle is still very popular. Try the roast pork belly with fennel, parsley and garlic. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.theeaglefarringdon.co.uk. 159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL. T: 020-7837 1353. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Les 110 de Taillevent

Fox & Anchor

Contemporary French dining by the same team as the famous Taillevent restaurant in Paris. More than 100 glasses of wine are offered by the glass. £££. Daily L & D. www.les-110-tailleventlondon.com. 16 Cavendish Square, W1G 9DD. T: 020-3141 6016. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

L’Escargot

Bustling French brasserie and bar. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

This elegant establishment is London’s oldest French restaurant – it was established in 1927. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.lescargotrestaurant. co.uk. 48 Greek St, W1D 4EF. T: 020-7439 7474. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Celeste

Le Pont de la Tour

Dazzling French-inspired cuisine in an elegant dining room at The Lanesborough hotel. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Stunning riverside restaurant serves classic French dishes in a 19th-century former tea warehouse. £££. Daily L & D. www.lepontdelatour.co.uk. 36D Shad Thames, SE1 2YE. T: 020-7403 8403. Off map. Station: London Bridge.

Brasserie Zédel

Gastropubs

An authentic British pub with cosy corners and a great seasonal menu. Try the roasted Jerusalem artichokes and salsify with spinach, onion purée and Berkswell cheese. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.foxandanchor.com. 115 Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AA. T: 020-7250 1300. D9. Station: Barbican.

The Grazing Goat Fresh local produce is the trademark of this delightful venue. Try seared Scottish scallops or roasted lamb loin. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.the grazinggoat.co.uk. 6 New Quebec St, W1H 7RQ. T: 020-7724 7243. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

The Thomas Cubitt Classic dining room with an adjacent bar, serving top-quality British produce. Try the beef sirloin Sunday roast. £££. Daily L & D. www.thethomas cubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.

The Wells This bright and airy pub serves delicious British cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.thewellshampstead. co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Indian Amaya Exotic Indian grills. The Michelin-starred food is cooked in the dramatic show kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. 19 Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Baluchi at the Lalit London This elegant pan-Indian restaurant is part of a new five-star boutique hotel housed within a Grade II-listed Victorian building near Tower Bridge. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thelalit.com. 181 Tooley St, SW1 2JR. T: 020-3765.0000. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Flavours of India Situated in Covent Garden, near the Royal Opera House, is the recently renovated branch of Masala Zone (p. 62). Dozens of Rajastani puppets hang from the ceiling, giving a nod to its theatrical location. The creators behind the restaurant – Camellia Panjabi, Namita Panjabi and Ranjit Mathrani – are credited with bringing Indian food to the masses. In the restaurant you can try street food, from pakoras to samosas, and regional curries, inspired by places from Kerala to Hyderabad. If you aren’t sure what to order, ask for the thali – the platter has small portions of different curries and is a good reflection of what is eaten in Indian homes.

Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates modern Indian cuisine. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Bombay Place The cuisine at this well-established restaurant is a cut above the rest. Start with huge king prawns with garlic sauce and sample chicken with spinach, or buttery dhal makhani. Very good vegetable selection. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.bombay-palace.co.uk. 50 Connaught St, W2 2AA. T: 020-7723 8855. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

masala zone © PETER KOCIHA Photography

Benares

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MASALA ZONE © PETER KOCIHA PHOTOGRAPHY

ENJOY THE THALI AT

REAL INDIAN FOOD

HOLLYWOOD INSPIRED DINING IN THE HEART OF LONDON

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA L A ZO N E .CO M

A tasty slice of history in Trafalgar Square Discover the award-winning Café in the Crypt underneath St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square. Open daily with special offers including traditional English breakfast, afternoon tea and pre-concert and pre-theatre lunch and dinner. Concerts and services run throughout the week in the church upstairs including free lunchtime concerts on Monday, Tuesday and Friday at 1.00pm

Read our reviews on

APPETISERS • STEAKS • RIBS FA J I TA S • B U R G E R S • F I S H PA S TA S • P I Z Z A S • A S I A N SALADS•SANDWICHES D E S S E R T S • C O C K TA I L S

RESTAURANT OPEN ‘TIL MIDNIGHT (11PM SUN) BAR OPEN ‘TIL 1AM (MIDNIGHT SUN)

20% OFF

FOOD/SOFT DRINKS/MERCHANDISE Not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Payment by cash or debit/credit card only. Discount applies to a la carte menu (excluding kids’ menu). Valid daily (except 5pm to 9pm Saturday) until 31/3/17. Subject to availability. 1 voucher per table maximum 8 persons. Code WHERE. Please show this advert to your server before ordering.

TO BOOK PLEASE CALL

020 7287 1000 planethollywoodlondon.com

57-60 HAYMARKET LONDON SW1Y 4QX

TUBE: PICCADILLY CIRCUS OR LEICESTER SQ

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DINING

Expect a gourmet tour of seven different Indian regions at this superior Indian restaurant. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutneymary. com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaylord This long-established restaurant is famed for its Mughlai-based cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.gay lordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Gymkhana Michelin-starred restaurant designed in the style of the old colonial Indian gymkhana clubs. £££. Daily L & D. www.gymkhanalondon.com. 42 Albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 020-3011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.

Khan’s of Kensington This restaurant serves a great range of vegetarian and fish dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansof kensington.co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. G4. Station: South Kensington.

La Porte des Indes Indian cuisine with a Gallic twist, inspired by the Pondicherry region. £££. Daily L & D. www.la portedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Little India This cosy establishment specialises in dishes from Bengal. ££. Daily L & D. www.littleindia london.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Masala Zone Informal dining in this good-value restaurant. Start with chaat (street snacks), then tuck into a grand thali (p. 60). £. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Memories of India Authentic flavours from the north of India. Specialities include spiced lamb. ££. Daily L & D. www.memoriesofindia.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Mint Leaf Contemporary Indian dishes are the trademark of this stylish restaurant. Try the grilled prawns with fenugreek. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mint leafgroup.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant, which now has a Michelin-star, marries an opulent interior with stylish cuisine. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

INTERNATIONAL The Cavendish Fish, meats and salads are prepared while you watch. ££. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 0207487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.

ITALIAN Bella Italia Excellent for traditional dishes, such as Roma pizzas, meaty lasagne and creamy carbonara. ££. Daily B, L & D (and branches). www.bellaitalia. co.uk. 100 Baker St, W1U 6WG. T: 020-3058 3458. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Rossopomodoro Authentic pizza and pasta. £. Daily L & D. www.rosso pomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX. T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Verdi Casual dining and authentic flavours of Italy. ££. Daily L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Engawa Small venue that serves excellent traditional Japanese sushi. £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Matsuri Specialises in sushi and teppanyaki. £££. Daily L & D. www.matsuri-restaurant.com. 15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E7. Station: Green Park.

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH

RS Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames serving delicious modern European cuisine. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

SOUTH-EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen A great selection of excellent pan-Asian cuisine in department store Debenhams. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Mango Tree This elegant award-winning restaurant serves classic Thai dishes. Try the sea bass wrapped in banana leaf. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mango tree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Thai Pot This popular spot serving freshly prepared Thai food has stylish décor. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thai pot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden

SPANISH El Pirata This busy tapas bar-restaurant serves hot and cold dishes, including seafood. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Iberica Victoria Traditional dishes are given a modern twist on a menu created by award-winning chef Nacho Manzano. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.iberica restaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Yasmeen

Moro

Authentic dishes influenced by Lebanon and Syria. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

North Africa meets Spain in this highly regarded Moorish restaurant. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

RIVERSIDE

VEGETARIAN

Bateaux London

Amico Bio

Enjoy a river cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. Evening cruises. www.bateaux london.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

Good-value Italian eatery that uses organic ingredients from the owner’s farm in Italy. £-££. Daily L & D. www.amicobio.co.uk. 44 Cloth Fair, EC1A 7JQ. T: 020-7600 7778. D9. Station: Barbican.

London Showboat Drift down the Thames while eating dinner. Nightly £80 per person. Departs Westminster Pier 7.30pm. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

Tibits Enjoy dozens of delicious dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed veggie restaurant-bar. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Well-flavoured cuisine from throughout India. Enjoy delicious dishes such as cashew pakoras and Mysore masala dosa. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

SushiSamba Fusion of Japanese and Brazilian food. £££. Daily L & D. www.sushisamba.com. 38th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 0203640 7330. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Enjoy fish and chips, a British favourite, at Poppie’s – a traditional chippy (p. 58)

POPPIE’S FISH AND CHIPS IMAGE COURTESY OF POPPIE’S FISH AND CHIPS

Chutney Mary

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W H E R E

L O N D O N

P R O M O T I O N

best of london dining Khans of Kensington Visit Khans of Kensington for delicious, genuine Indian cuisine that a core of devotees have been enjoying for many years. The restaurant prides itself on its modern take on traditional North Indian cuisine, with mouthwatering dishes such as its famous fish koliwada and lamb chop in honey sauce. The expansive menu covers many dishes, but if you don’t see your personal favourite on the menu, just ask the team of expert chefs and they will be more than happy to set that right. The restaurant is just a minute’s walk from South Kensington Tube station. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm.

El Pirata

3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. www.khansofkensington.co.uk. Station: South Kensington

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. Informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Little India One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a woman. Why not come and try its signature dish, Naga Chicken, cooked in spices and one naga chilli, then tossed dry. As well as this, Little India prides itself in traditional home-style cooking. Come and enjoy a truly unique and memorable dining experience while indulging yourself in the real taste of fine Indian cuisine. Monday-Saturday, noon-11.30pm; Sunday noon-11pm. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended as Little India is really little! Perfectly located near the Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Kensington Palace and the Natural History Museum.

Memories of India

32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476/T: 020-7589 9315. www.littleindialondon.com Station: Gloucester Road

At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have a private room for parties and corporate functions. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734. www.memoriesofindia.com. Station: Gloucester Road.

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nightlife | THE GUIDE

The sound of music London has no shortage of massive music venues, with Brixton Academy, The O2, Wembley Arena and the Roundhouse regularly attracting the biggest performers from around the world and the thousands of fans who want to see them play. But where do you go in this city to hear the next big thing or listen to your favourite artist in an intimate setting? There are surprisingly few places for such a music-loving metropolis. So step forward Omeara, a brand-new 320-capacity live music venue in converted railway arches near London Bridge. Set up by Mumford & Sons’ Ben Lovett (who co-founded the independent music label Communion), Omeara is divided into a large bar, small concert hall and separate informal dining area. ‘I’ve been playing and putting on shows in London for my entire adult life,’ says Lovett. ‘Without the grassroots music venues in this city, the band and I simply wouldn’t have achieved what we have, so I have a lot to be grateful for.’

London Mayor Sadiq Khan adds: ‘These venues, which are the lifeblood of our music scene, are often under threat. I know Omeara will be a massive success, helping fresh new talents to make their mark in the capital and have their music heard’. Tequila takes centre stage on the drinks menu with multiple concoctions featuring the spirit. We recommend the Omeara Ora for its refreshing mix of tequila, strawberry purée, lemon and Prosecco. For something sweeter, try a Salty Caramel Flip, made with

tequila, mezcal, crème caramel, agave syrup, bitters and popcorn. Seating options range from booths to balcony tables (look for the stairs to a hidden bar above the main room). Surrounding the bar, you’ll find lots of food options spanning several railway arches (collectively known as Flat Iron Square), including award-winning Mexican street food (Cantina Carnitas), modern Eastern Mediterranean dishes (Laffa), ramen from Barcelona (Tatami) and Spanish dishes (EDū). It’s early days but already the programming boasts some exciting acts, including moody folk-electronica artist Fyfe (1 Feb); Australian Idol finalist Lisa Mitchell (21 Feb); and Maggie Rogers (28 Feb), who was catapulted to fame after a video of Pharrell Williams listening to her song Alaska went viral. In the future, Lovett hopes to add comedy, burlesque and magic shows to Omeara’s offerings, but for now, treat your ears to live music through a state-of-theart sound system with a cocktail in hand. 6 O’Meara St, SE1 1TE. www.omearalondon.com

London is full of huge music stadiums, but what if you prefer to listen to music in a more intimate venue? Sam Rogg looks forward to dancing and drinking at new grassroots space, Omeara

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NIGHTLIFE Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

Traditional Pubs

Bars & Clubs

The Blackfriar

68 & Boston

This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs. co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Sophisticated Soho venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. The ground-floor wine bar boasts many lesser-known regions, including Uruguay, and all bottles are just £20. Nightly food menu. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted! www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The Magpie & Stump This pub, opposite the Old Bailey, once doubled up as a viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including the novelist Charles Dickens. www.thespaniards hampstead.co.uk. Spaniards Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This landmark pub has wood-panelled walls and vaults that are thought to date back to a 13th-century Carmelite monastery which once stood here. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

The Bar at Bellamy’s Cocktails and wines served in a chic setting, which is decorated with vintage ski posters. www.bellamysrestaurant.co.uk. 18/18a Bruton Place, W1J 6LY. T: 020-7491 2727. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create a drink. You’re advised to book in advance. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE. T: 0203441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.

C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) A wonderful well-stocked, retro-styled cocktail bar. Tastings, classes and tours are available. www.city oflondondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3446. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

Wining and dining

where

Recommended by youR concieRge

Located in the historic surroundings of St Katharine Docks, close to the Tower of London, Traders Wine Bar boasts an impressive range of fine wines from across the globe. Escape the cold inside this intimate venue with its wine-barrel tables and a wood fire and enjoy wine, cheese and charcuterie while gazing out on to the tranquil waterfront. Let the knowledgeable staff recommend a glass to suit your palate: the South African pinot noir tastes great with a sharing board of dry-cured meats and artisan cheeses. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 0207-481 3796. www.traderswine.co.uk. Off map. Station: Tower Hill

image courtesy of traders wine bar

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Top Pick

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image courtesy of traders wine bar

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Drakes Tabanco A Spanish-style bar that serves rare sherries which have been aged in ancient oak barrels. There are also craft beers, a range of natural wines and Andalucian tapas dishes. www.drakes tabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub underneath. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Gong

Live Entertainment London Cabaret Club

Cabaret gets a modern twist with the show ‘Best of British Pop’, which has hits from the 1960s to the present day. Dinner and VIP tickets available. A DJ plays until 3am. www.thelondoncabaretclub.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn.

Ronnie Scott’s The world-famous jazz venue has hosted Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellows Enjoy entertainment by more than 80 ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables at Peter Stringfellow’s Gentlemen’s Club and restaurant. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

SERVICES Icebreaker Download this free app that enables you to meet interesting people in exclusive venues. There is a small charge to see profiles and message other users. www.icebreakerapp.info.

Located in The Shard, Gong is the highest Champagne bar in London and the ideal place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks. The bar also contains an infinity pool. www.shangrila.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in this stonewalled basement. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

The Nightjar Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most nights. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

Opium Cocktail Bar This stylish upstairs bar tucked away in Chinatown serves innovative Chinese-inspired cocktails. www.opiumchinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Primo Bar Enjoy free live music every night. Try the Asianinspired concoctions. www.primobar.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Scarfes Bar Part of the luxury hotel Rosewood London, this bar is named after Gerald Scarfe, the cartoonist famous for his satirical illustrations. Enjoy Indian-inspired snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

Searcys Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar, in the upstairs forecourt of the glorious train station, serves seafood platters. www.searcyschampagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 0207870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Trader Vic’s Tiki-style basement bar and restaurant, which is more than 50 years old. The menu has rum-laced cocktails − try the Mai Tai cocktail in an exotic setting. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Casinos Hippodrome Casino This landmark venue has fabulous gaming on three floors, plus the 150-seat Heliot Steak House. There is The Late Jazz Jam (every Thur from 11pm). www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square. www.wheretraveler.com 67

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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE Main: couple relaxing Below: House of Elemis

It takes two While a candlelit meal may be one of the most popular ways to say ‘I love you’, don’t dismiss indulging in a treatment for two at one of London’s leading spas. The experience gives you both the chance to switch off and relax together, and – who knows – a sensual massage may bring you even closer together. Now in its 25th year, Elemis is serious about looking after your skin. While it specialises in facials, during which therapists analyse the ageing of your skin in detail, it also offers massages and a speed spa that has a selection of 15 and 30-minute treatments. ‘This is a couture beauty house – everything is designed around what you want and what you need for the day,’ says Noella Gabriel, co-founder of Elemis. ‘The menu has been designed to make sure every treatment is action-packed in the most relaxing way. It’s all about flow. The treatments really respect the idea that you’re giving your time. And we will always give back.’

Last year, the House of Elemis Mayfair flagship reopened and it includes a special room for two: The Penthouse (p. 69). The airy rooftop space, filled with porcelain petals and hand-blown glass lighting, allows you and your partner to enjoy treatments together. The Stop the Clock package (two hours; £300) includes an hour-long treatment of your choosing, from facials to massages. Meanwhile, the Rejuvenate and Restore gives you three hours to relax with two treatments. Choose from a Touch or

Technology facial and a body treatment – one of which includes a Deeper than Deep hot stone massage. Both packages include a bottle of Champagne and strawberries, which you can enjoy in your private relaxation area after your treatment. If you cannot find what you’re looking for on the menu, the spa takes bespoke bookings. A spa concierge can also arrange a car to collect you to take you to your next destination, as well as organise dinner and theatre tickets. Central London is bursting with spas that offer a serene escape from the city’s hustle and bustle. At Rocco Forte in Brown’s Hotel, the menu offers the treatment Together (80 min; £300) with an aromatherapy massage and skin radiance facial before enjoying Champagne (33 Albemarle St, W1S 4BP). Spa Iluminata’s Couples Massage (one hour; £220) gives you the chance to have a massage, which can be upgraded to a hot stone, steam or scalp massage, or a facial (63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS). You’ll be feeling loved up in no time.

couple image courtesy of istock; spa image courtesy of elemis

Most people think of spas as a solitary experience, but this Valentine’s there are plenty of places offering romantic treatments for two, says Kohinoor Sahota

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AVENA MASSAGE

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 72-73)

Spas Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow-dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. Beauty and spa treatments available, and there’s a special barber. The Express Beauty Bar has treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Bamford Haybarn Spa Loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products including Oskia facials. There is also a rooftop pool and secret garden. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members’ only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in a 56ft pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are a range of massages, and a treatment room for disabled customers. The Spa Café offers nutritionally balanced dishes. www.blueharbour spa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.

Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. In The Penthouse, a private suite, you can share the experience with a guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes (p. 68). www.elemis. com/dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Mandara Spa Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. Décor includes a bamboo forest, Modrian pantings and Japanese Shoji screens. Signature treatments include the Warm Bamboo Massage, which uses bamboo stalks to stroke your body. There is a double treatment room, fitness centre and swimming pool. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo. A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Treatments include body wraps, scrubs, massages and facials, and there is also a menu for men. Facilities include a 17-metre pool and gym. Book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 0207235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing, and brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has an underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery London’s men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to sports massage. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book the Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a Gold Age-Defying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

07879 697478

Spa Illuminata Recently voted the Best Day Spa in London by Condé Nast, this spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Urban Retreat at Harrods This is one of the few places that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include extensions, weaves, wig creation and cutting at the Wig Boudoir. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Late appointments available

Ushvani This plush venue was voted the Best Day Spa by Tatler in 2012. The philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

InspIrIng London’s VIsItors

This traditional barbershop in Mayfair offers wet shaves, manicures and hair cuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

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DISCREET QUALITY SERVICE, OPEN LATE Please call to book an appointment at your hotel or home. Alternatively, we welcome customers at our Mayfair Studio.

Windle & Moodie This award-winning hair salon specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos to braids. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

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TICKET INFORMATION An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £3 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube)

AT YOUR SERVICE Where London is used by head concierges and their teams at 275 top hotels in the capital Robert Shorter, head concierge at Royal Garden Hotel London, shares his tips What kind of requests do your guests make? The most popular requests are for tickets to Warner Bros. Studio Tour and a private tour of London. Any unusual demands? I recently had a regular guest who wanted to purchase one of the Marvel figures at Madame Tussauds. Another time a member of the Saudi royal family asked us to find an original Slush Puppie machine with mixes straight away! We found one in Sunderland and organised our chauffeur to collect it. What do you recommend for repeat visitors? Take a trip to Stonehenge, Bath or Oxford. Bath has Roman baths, where you can taste the water, if you dare!

Any tips for a rainy day? Go to one of our world-class museums: Science Museum, Natural History Museum and Victoria and Albert Museum. Share your dream day. A lovely walk across the Millennium Bridge, taking in the Tate Modern and Shakespeare’s Globe. What do you recommend for visitors with children? Children can go crazy for an hour or so in the Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Playground in Hyde Park. We also loan complimentary scooters for adults and kids. Why is your hotel special? It has panoramic views of Hyde Park. I recommend the hotel’s restaurant, Min Jiang. The Beijing duck is a must.

What do you recommend beyond central London? See deer in Richmond Park and enjoy a river walk. Share the quintessential English experience... Hop on the Belmond British Pullman train for afternoon tea in the garden of England. Clockwise from top left: Millennium Bridge, Min Jiang, Warner Bros. Studio Tour Inset: Robert Shorter

www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly line. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. Single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map opposite). Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras International (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, and southeast England. Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England. For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. Eurostar uses St Pancras International. Go to www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (or if you’re outside the UK, call T: 01233-617 575).

MILLENNIUM BRIDGE © ISTOCK; MIN JIANG COURTESY OF ROYAL GARDEN HOTEL LONDON; WARNER BROS STUDIO TOUR COURTESY OF WARNER BROS; ROBERT SHORTER COURTESY OF ROYAL GARDEN HOTEL LONDON

Oyster cards & Travelcards

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ESSENTIALS

Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Mailbox

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river service at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCel London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mailbox are also trained certified packers. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. For more information, visit www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.

Congestion Charge There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.

River services

millennium bridge © istock; min jiang courtesy of royal garden hotel london; warner bros studio tour courtesy of warner bros; robert shorter courtesy of royal garden hotel london

Same day luggage delivery between London’s airports and London locations. Visit portr.com and quote ‘ESSENTIALS’ for 10% discount.

www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. www.thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 20 main piers. Discounts on adult single fare with an Oyster, Visitor Oyster or contactless card. River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. From £2 for 30 minutes; the first 30 minutes are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe. SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl. gov.uk/coaches Victoria. Map D4.

DELIVERY AirPortr (Luggage delivery service) Same-day luggage transfer between London’s airports and hotels – travel bag-free and make the most of your time here. Prices start at £15 for one bag plus £10 for each additional item (any size or weight). T: 020-3384 6677. www.portr.com.

24-hour Tube lines Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon. • Jubilee Line: Across the entire line. • Victoria Line: Across the entire line. • Northern Line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town to High Barnet/Edgware. Night Tube will not stop at Charing Cross until July. • Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central Line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 71

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Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away Put the power of Where® in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

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Where NOW | JAY RAYNER

My London

JAY RAYNER

What is your favourite place for breakfast? My perfect breakfast would be at The Wolseley. The room just makes you feel like you’re in the right spot. It does a good cooked breakfast. What are your favourite buildings? St Pancras Station, before and after its redevelopment, and the National Theatre – it took me a long time to fall in love with it, but it deserves our love. What museums and galleries do you like? Tate Modern, for me, is about the Turbine Hall and what is in that space. I love the National Portrait Gallery as it’s always fascinating to look people in the eye. What place in London is special for you? Shaftesbury Avenue. My father had been an actor, so from a young age I was taken to the theatre. By the age of 10 I had been backstage at every West End theatre, so – as my parents are gone now – the street reminds me of them. Is there a memory that stands out? I remember going backstage to see Tommy Steele. He had a star dressing room, which I thought was the fanciest thing. What are your favourite green spaces? I’m a fan of my local park, Brockwell Park, which is south of Brixton. When I was a young parent, I could spend the day in that park: in the playground, walled garden and café.

What’s your favourite place to have lunch? Four Seasons on Gerrard Street. I sneak in alone to have roast Cantonese duck, not crispy, with a side of greens with chilli, no rice and The New Yorker – and I’m happy by myself.

What are your London extravagances? I get this ridiculous mop of hair of mine done at The Refinery – a male grooming spa. I was originally sent there by my editor for a full wax! I now have a ritual of a massage and a haircut.

What places in the city inspire you? Cities are about possibilities. I am a city man, right to the ends of my toes. If you ever want proof of that, stand on Waterloo Bridge, ideally at dusk, and look north. The city is laid out for you – almost wantonly. If you can’t get excited by that, then you’re dead inside!

What is your ideal entertainment? I have this sideline job as a musician. It began at The Ivy Club – where I’m a member – and my idea of utter bliss is playing with the jazz trio.

Where do you like shopping? A lot of people never get beyond the ground floor of Fortnum & Mason, but the real treasures are found above it. It’s a brilliant department store – it’s not cheap, but it’s good value. If I’m hunting for a present, I can be found in the halls; nothing bad happens there.

Tell us about your show at Live at Zédel. I can’t bear self-absorbed jazz, which seems to be performed for the people onstage rather than the audience. I’m a big believer in an allround show, and musically we are on point. What hotels do you love in London? Hazlitt’s in Soho is decked out with antiques – it’s eccentric and cultural.

What is your favourite place to dine? If I was forced to choose, I’d say Bentley’s on Swallow Street. If I could sit at the bar and watch the guys open oysters for me, I’d be happy.

What makes London stand out? It has never been mortgaged to its own history. It has a sense of itself while also being open to the rest of the world. There are cities, like Rome, which are fantastic, but they can’t get over the fact they’re Rome – whereas London is a bustling metropolis, open to the world. 18 & 20 Feb, 24 Mar. Live at Zédel, Brasserie Zédel, 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. www.brasseriezedel.com

What bars and pubs do you go to? I’m not a big pub-goer, but Pall Mall Fine Wines in the Royal Opera Arcade is brilliant.

Clockwise from top left: Shaftesbury Avenue; Jay Rayner; Fortnum & Mason; Waterloo Bridge; breakfast at The Wolseley

Where do you like to have tea? Maison Bertaux on Greek Street. It’s an oldschool patisserie, run in a ramshackle way.

shaftesbury avenue, fortnum & mason and waterloo bridge © istock; jay rayner © bella west; breakfast courtesy of the wolseley

Writer, broadcaster and musician Born in London, Jay is a food critic and has been a MasterChef judge. He’s also a jazz pianist who will perform with the Jay Rayner Quartet on 18 Feb and 24 Mar at Live at Zédel. He’ll deliver a talk about My Dining Hell on 20 Feb at the same venue

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