Where London June 2017

London

JUNE 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

HARRY POTTER

Celebrate the 20th anniversary

BAT OUT OF HELL

Get ready for the Meat Loaf musical

PLUS

Rooftop dining Rufus Hound Outdoor art

Where to watch our musical icons

ELTON JOHN CULTURE

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ADELE • PHIL COLLINS

ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

DINING

MAPS

Contents June

See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london

London

JUNE 2 0 17 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

ON THE COVER HARRY POTTER

Celebrate the 20th anniversary

BAT OUT OF HELL

Get ready for the Meat Loaf musical

PLUS

Rooftop dining Rufus Hound Outdoor art

Where to watch our musical icons

ELTON JOHN CULTURE

•

ADELE • PHIL COLLINS

ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

DINING

MAPS

WL JUNE 2017 COVER.indd 1

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The Guide

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22 SIGHTSEEING Ssssh! Take a trip to one of London’s secret gardens and open spaces.

36 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Visit this summer’s Serpentine Pavilion, designed by Diébédo Francis Kéré; the Royal Academy of Arts’ Summer Exhibition and Somerset House’s Perfume display.

44 ENTERTAINMENT The Meat Loaf musical Bat Out of Hell roars on to the stage with songs including I’d Do Anything for Love.

54 SHOPPING Visit Seven Dials, one of London’s prettiest districts, for independent boutiques and a shopping festival.

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Best of the month 14 SOUNDS OF THE CITY

6 WHERE NOW Join in the fun! Watch the pageantry of Beating Retreat, enjoy song and dance during West End Live, and see a play by the Bard at the stroke of midnight at Shakespeare’s Globe.

A guide to the capital’s biggest music festivals, from British Summer Time to Meltdown.

10 CELEBRATE HARRY POTTER’S 20TH ANNIVERSARY Relive the magic of the books and films across the city and at Warner Bros. Studio Tour London.

CHINESE EDITION | SPRING 2017

PLAN

2016-2017

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LONDRES ÉDITION E FRANÇAIS

18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Take your pick from these sports-inspired gifts, including jewellery, artwork and games.

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82 MY LONDON Comedian Rufus Hound shares his London hotspots.

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S

LONDON

伦敦 | 中文版 IN LONDON CHINESE EDITION | 中文版 | SPRING 2017

SERPENTINE PAVILION COURTESY OF SERPENTINE GALLERIES; SEVEN DIALS © TIM GRIFFITHS; HARRY POTTER © MANUEL HARLAN; AVIARY RESTAURANT COURTESY OF AVIARY HOTEL; JUSTIN BIEBER COURTESY OF BRITISH SUMMER TIME

Watch the award-winning singer Adele at Wembley Stadium.

Cover image courtesy of Wembley Stadium.

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In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

62 DINING Raise the roof at one of London’s restaurants with a view, including Aviary and Bōkan.

72 NIGHTLIFE Music for your ears!

Visit one of London’s latest music venues, including Borderline and Omeara.

76 WELLBEING Discover the places to splash around, from open-air ponds to Olympic-sized swimming pools.

78 ESSENTIALS Tony Baum, concierge at the Bulgari Hotel London, shares his tips on how to make the most of your trip.

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Vol. No. 43 Issue No. 6 ISSN 0951 323X YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

4 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

WELCOME

Editor’s Letter

Thank you for the music Adele, Elton John and Phil Collins are just some of the biggest names in music who were born and bred in London. This month we dedicate our cover to Adele, the multi-award-winning superstar straight out of Tottenham, who has won Brits, Grammys and even an Oscar. Find out how you can see the singer and other famous faces at festivals and concerts (p. 14).

One of Britain’s other big exports is Harry Potter. It’s hard to believe that it has been 20 years since J.K. Rowling wrote the first book in the series. Use our guide to film locations across London and the Warner Bros. Studio Tour London, so you can fall under the spell again (p. 10).

London knows how to make the most of the summer. Enjoy the high life in a rooftop restaurant (p. 62); see outdoor art, courtesy of the Serpentine Pavilion (p. 36); or get lost in one of the city’s secret spaces during the Open Garden Squares Weekend (p. 22).

I had the pleasure of speaking to comedian Rufus Hound, who is starring in the stage version of The Wind in the Willows. Read his interview, in which he shares his favourite things to do in London – from exhibitions to eating out – and tells us why he thinks the city stands out from the rest of the world (p. 82).

Have an amazing time!

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: Where London

Kohinoor at Warner Bros. Studio Tour

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Have a blast this June! Watch fireworks during Beating Retreat, cheer on horses at Royal Ascot and eat your way around a food festival

SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE FROM FRIDAY 9 JUNE

ROYAL ASCOT TUESDAY 20–SATURDAY 24 JUNE

Hats off to Royal Ascot, a horse-racing festival that has been going strong since Queen Anne founded it in 1711. Even now, Queen Elizabeth II appears in the royal procession in her horse-drawn carriage at the start of each day.

Highlights include the Gold Cup on Ladies Day (22 Jun). www.ascot.co.uk 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

Visit Shakespeare’s Globe, which is a replica of the original Elizabethan theatre from the 1600s, and watch a show under the stars.

In the new Midnight Matinee series (from 9 Jun) you can see classic productions written by the Bard: Twelfth Night (9 Jun) and Romeo and Juliet (30 Jun), then later in the year Much Ado About Nothing (22 Sep) – all starting at 11.59pm. www.shakespearesglobe.com

BEATING RETREAT WEDNESDAY 14–THURSDAY 15 JUNE

Watch The Household Division’s Beating Retreat spectacle on Horse Guards Parade. The annual tradition dates back to the 1690s and is now a pageant of music and military precision drill, with horses, cannons and fireworks. www.householddivision.org.uk

TASTE OF LONDON

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WEDNESDAY 14–SUNDAY 18 JUNE

Regent’s Park is once again transformed into a foodie wonderland for the annual Taste of London festival, featuring around 40 of the city’s most inspirational restaurants, as well as masterclasses and live entertainment. Get your tastebuds tingling for Neil Rankin’s meat feasts from Temper, the best of British from Oldroyd, and upscale Indian from Jamavar. Bon appetit! www.london.taste festivals.com

JUNE CS the

WEST END LIVE SATURDAY 24–SUNDAY 25 JUNE

For a taste of London’s musical theatre scene, you can’t beat West End Live in Trafalgar Square. The free annual event sees performers from the capital’s top shows – including Mamma Mia! and Wicked – sing and dance on stage. www.westendlive.co.uk

TROOPING THE COLOUR SATURDAY 17 JUNE

Join the Queen for a military parade of officers and horses with a marching band at the Trooping the Colour on Horse Guards Parade. The tradition dates back to the 18th century, when the colours of the regiment were used to rally soldiers in battle, and it now marks the Queen’s official birthday. www.householddivision.org.uk

POLO IN THE PARK FRIDAY 9–SUNDAY 11 JUNE

At Chestertons Polo in the Park, spectators can capture the summer spirit at this thrilling high-speed horse event. Taking place in Fulham’s Hurlingham Park, a historic polo venue, the dramatic tournament sees teams from six global cities competing on a smaller ground than usual, and with tweaked rules.

Attendance records may well be broken on International Friday (9 Jun), which sees a crunch match between Team England and Team India, who make their first appearance at Hurlingham Park in more than 70 years. They are led by HH Maharaja Padmanabh Singh, a member of Jaipur’s royal family who comes from a long line of international polo players. www.polointheparklondon.com 8 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

HOT DATES

See contemporary dance with Akram Khan Company’s DESH, at Sadler’s Wells (p. 52) Miranda Hart plays a mean orphanage boss in a new production of Annie (p. 46) It’s the final night of Curious Incident.

Try for a ticket at the Gielgud Theatre Head to The British Library for Russian Revolution: Hope, Tragedy, Myths (p. 24) See LEGO legends at The Art of the Brick: DC Super Heroes behind the National Theatre See Gary, Mark and Howard on stage for their Take That tour at The O2 arena (p. 53) Benedict Drew’s new installation opens today at the Whitechapel Gallery Sit back and enjoy London from the water with Circular Cruise Westminster (p. 30)

Hamlet, from the creators of 1984, opens at the Harold Pinter Theatre (p. 48) It’s the last night for Don Juan in Soho, with David Tennant as Don (p. 48) ‘Travel’ to Italy with Canaletto & the Art of Venice at The Queen’s Gallery (p. 43) Don your fishnets and leather jacket for Bat Out of Hell at the Coliseum (p. 44) Listen to Amy Winehouses’s classic songs performed at The Jazz Café (p. 53) Exploring LGBTQ Histories is taking place at The British Museum (p. 38) Get sporty with the Hockey World League semi-finals at the Olympic Park (p. 27) Fall in love with Donizetti’s opera L’elisir d’Amore at the Royal Opera House (p. 52) Enjoy the pomp and ceremony of Trooping the Colour on Horse Guards Parade Take a peek at private lawns during Open Garden Squares Weekend (p. 30) Climb up the tallest building in Western Europe, The View from The Shard (p. 29) Take a tour of Sir John Soane’s Museum and see its quirky displays (p. 42) Have a giggle at The Cartoon Museum, with 200 years of British comic art (p. 38) Make the most of summer at On the Town at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre (p. 46) Art lovers can enjoy a free guided tour of The National Gallery (p. 42) Ride the ArcelorMittal Orbit’s slide in Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park (p. 27) It’s the last day of The Japanese House exhibition at Barbican Art Gallery (p. 42) See street art and theatre at Greenwich+ Docklands International Festival (p. 52) Enjoy a stadium tour at Arsenal FC, a football club with a 125-year history (p. 38) Hear a performance of Rachmaninov’s Third Symphony at Cadogan Hall (p. 52) Croon away to Grammy Award-winning Gladys Knight at Royal Albert Hall (p. 53) See old TV equipment at Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum’s exhibition, On Air (p. 42)

For more ideas visit www.wheretraveler.com

OVERLEAF: BEATING RETREAT © MOD CROWN COPYRIGHT; ROYAL ASCOT © ALAN CROWHURST/GETTY IMAGES; SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE © JOHN WILDGOOSE; TASTE OF LONDON © JUSTINE TRICKETT. THIS PAGE: WEST END LIVE © PAMELA RAITH; TROOPING THE COLOUR © ISTOCK; POLO IN THE PARK © TIM EDWARDS

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

C E L E B R AT E HARRY POT TER'S TH

ANNIVERSARY This month marks 20 years since the first Harry Potter book was published.

Dominic Wells explains how you can fall under the spell of the stories 10 W H E R E LO N D O N I M A R C H 2017

HARRY POTTER | WHERE NOW

MILLENNIUM BRIDGE

HOGWARTS EXPRESS © WARNER BROS; HARRY POTTER AND THE CURSED CHILD © MANUEL HARLAN; STUDIO TOUR AND CHILDREN © WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR; SNAKE, LEADENHALL MARKET, PLATFORM SIGN, LAMBETH BRIDGE AND GRAPHICS © ISTOCK; MILLENNIUM BRIDGE © LOOP IMAGES LTD/ALAMY; MERCHANDISE COURTESY OF HARRY POTTER SHOP; HARRY POTTER WALKING TOUR COURTESY OF HARRY POTTER WALKING TOUR; JK ROWLING © MANUEL HARLAN

The Millennium Bridge was destroyed by Death Eaters in the film Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince

as it really been 20 years since the first Harry Potter book was published?

Yes, and here’s the proof: a new series of specialedition covers is released by Bloomsbury Books this month. The children who first read Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone are grown up now, many with children of their own, yet the stories have a timeless quality that means they don’t date. They are steeped in an exaggerated English boarding school tradition that makes Harry Potter as recognisable an emblem of Britishness as James Bond, Sherlock Holmes or the Queen – and just as big an attraction for visitors to London.

The book that J.K. Rowling wrote in an Edinburgh café as an impoverished single mother, and which initially struggled to find a publisher, has now become a global franchise with seven books, eight Harry Potter films, a new film series of Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them, and even a successful stage show: Harry Potter and the Cursed Child is still the West End’s hottest ticket, a year after it opened.

Its innovative staging has won over the critics as well as Potter fans: it won the 2016 Evening Standard Theatre Award for Best Play, and was nominated

for 11 Oliviers, more than any other show. Tickets to the sold-out production change hands for hundreds of pounds on ticket resale websites, but 40 tickets at just £20 each are released online at 1pm every Friday.

Just round the corner from the Palace Theatre, where The Cursed Child is showing, is a selling exhibition devoted to the art of Harry Potter. The film series was renowned for the exquisite craftsmanship that went into all the props and costumes, and here you can see newspapers, magazines and posters created for the wizarding world by the graphic design team of Miraphora Mina and Eduardo Lima. Two floors of the House of MinaLima, their pop-up shop on Greek Street in Soho, are devoted to the Harry Potter films, and another for Fantastic Beasts.

Or perhaps you would like to show off your own knowledge of the series? St Margaret’s House in Bethnal Green, east London, hosts a Harry Potter quiz every month or so – see if you can let out your inner Hermione Granger and pass your O.W.L. exams with flying colours.

Clockwise from top: Millennium Bridge; Harry Potter Shop merchandise; Forbidden Forest at Warner Bros.

Studio Tour; Harry Potter Walking Tour; J.K. Rowling w w w.wheretravele r.c o m 11

Just 10 minutes from there you’ll discover one of the great Harry Potter locations in Leadenhall Market, the elegant, ornate Victorian arcade which provided the setting for Diagon Alley in The Philosopher’s Stone. The entrance to the Leaky Cauldron pub for wizards is, in reality, an opticians in Bull’s Head Passage.

Walk east towards St Paul’s, and you’ll find the Millennium Bridge linking the cathedral to the Tate Modern art gallery on the South Bank.

This slender silver scimitar of a bridge was memorably ripped up and destroyed in the wake of the flying Dementors in The Half-Blood Prince – a witty reference to the fact that, when it was first built, it was nicknamed ‘the bendy bridge’, since it visibly swayed when crowds of people walked over it.

Other notable London locations seen in the Harry Potter films include Piccadilly Circus, where Harry, Hermione and Ron have to jump out of the way of

a London bus in The Deathly Hallows; Lambeth Bridge, which the Knight Bus races across in The Prisoner of Azkaban; Tower Bridge, which Harry and friends swooped past on broomsticks in The Order of the Phoenix; and the grand St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, from which the magical Ford Anglia takes to the skies in The Chamber of Secrets. Just across the road from there, in King’s Cross station, you will find the official Harry Potter Shop at Platform 9¾.

For more in-depth exploration, there are many guided Harry Potter walks and bus tours; or you can download a free walking tour at www.the-magician.co.uk.

The degree to which Harry Potter has gone from a humble children’s story to a classic beloved by all generations is shown by the fact that The British Library, no less, will be hosting the 20th anniversary exhibition, A History of Magic (from 20 Oct).

Jamie Andrews, Head of Culture and Learning, says: ‘We are thrilled to be working with J.K. Rowling and Bloomsbury to mark the 20th anniversary of Harry Potter, and to inspire fans with the magic of our own collection.’

After 20 years, readers and viewers are still spellbound by J.K. Rowling’s tales of alchemy, magic and fantastic beasts of yore. ■ Clockwise from top left: Harry Potter and the Cursed Child; Platform 9¾ at King’s Cross station; special edition of Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone Below, inset: Hogwarts at Warner Bros.

Studio Tour London

THE WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR LONDON - THE MAKING OF HARRY POTTER No true Harry Potter fan should leave London without visiting the Warner Bros.

Studio Tour London – The Making of Harry Potter. Accessible by public transport and a shuttle bus, it is well worth the trip.

New this year is the Forbidden Forest.

Entering through gigantic steel Hogwarts gates, you can walk among the entwined roots of 19 gigantic trees, where you will encounter Aragog, the fearsome giant spider with a leg-span of 18ft, and Buckbeak, the noble Hippogriff. Marvel at the attention to detail which meant that every hair on the spider’s body, and feather on the Hippogriff, were painstakingly inserted by hand.

12 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

Even before this impressive new addition, the tour was spectacular.

You start off in the Great Hall of Hogwarts, with the costumes of every major character mounted on a dais, before entering a vast space containing several whole sets: there’s Gryffindor Boy’s Dormitory, Dumbledore’s office, the Potios classroom and the Malfoy Manor drawing room. But in a way, it’s the small details that impress most: the craftsmanship in the Golden Snitch, as

fabulous as any jewellery; and the fact that every wand was handmade, with different styles to match each character.

After that, you’ll find a 20,000 sq ft recreation of Platform 9¾, with an actual steam train just like the one that took Harry to Hogwarts; the Creature Effects Workshop, full of animatronic beasts and latex heads; and a full-scale replica of Diagon Alley.

The tour climaxes with a vast 1:24 scale model of the whole of Hogwarts. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk

HARRY POTTER AND THE CURSED CHILD © MANUEL HARLAN; PLATFORM SIGN © WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR LONDON; BOOK COURTESY OF BLOOMSBURY BOOKS; HOGWARTS © WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR LONDON

WHERE NOW | HARRY POTTER

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As famous faces, from Adele to Elton John, take to the stage, Sarah Riches finds which gigs are hitting the right note ondon has been immortalised by so many musicians, from The Beatles’ Abbey Road album cover to The Kinks’ ode to the city in Waterloo Sunset.

This month sees London legends take to the stage. Whatever you do, don’t miss the finale of Adele’s world tour (from 29 Jun), which is at Wembley Stadium. Born in Tottenham, north London, and an alumni of The BRIT School for Performing Arts and Technology in south London, the star has won 15 Grammy Awards and an Academy Award.

Adele will perform in the round, giving you a 360-degree view. As she is keen to stay close to her son once he starts school, rumour has it this world tour might be her last. No wonder the concert’s sold out – but you may get lucky if you call for returns.

After a period of ill health, Elton John continues his worldwide Wonderful Crazy Night tour, which celebrates the rock star’s 33rd album of the same name (3 Jun). The outdoor show is in the stadium bowl of Twickenham Stoop and is the venue’s first concert.

Back in town, you can see another legend, Phil Collins, perform on his Not Dead Yet tour at the Royal Albert Hall (9 Jun). After a 10-year hiatus, the ex-Genesis star has come out of retirement to perform.

14 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

BRITISH SUMMER TIME FESTIVAL More than 65,000 people a day attend the Barclaycard Presents British Summer Time festival, a series of one-day concerts which takes over much of Hyde Park’s 350 acres.

Since 2013, everyone from The Rolling Stones to Kylie and Taylor Swift have graced its stage, while 2016’s headliners included big-name artists such as Carole King and Stevie Wonder wowing audiences.

Penelope Boyd is head of events at The Royal Parks, which cares for the park. She says: ‘The Great Oak stage has hosted the best global artists and 2017 is shaping up to be an exciting year. This is the fifth year for the event which has created memorable moments for hundreds of thousands of fans and in turn raised vital funds which go back into enhancing this iconic park.’

British superstar Phil Collins (30 Jun) kicks things off with his biggest-ever solo show. Don’t miss it, as British Summer Time will be the only European festival he’s performing at this year.

Later in the summer, Green Day will perform (1 Jul) alongside Justin Bieber (2 Jul), Kings of Leon (6 Jul), The Killers and the Mancunian band Elbow (8 Jul). Tom Petty & The Heartbreakers (9 Jul) will also rock the stage for the only 2017 European performance of their 40th anniversary tour.

Missed out on tickets? Then make the most of the festival’s free events, including open-air films, comedy, daily Wimbledon tennis screenings, badminton, ping pong and a pay-per-ride funfair.

30 Jun-9 Jul. www.bst-hydepark.com

MUSIC IN LONDON | WHERE NOW

This image: Adele Inset: Elton John

WHERE NOW | MUSIC IN LONDON

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• Ask youGr oh online at • ter.co.uk

HAMPTON COURT PALACE FESTIVAL Hyde Park isn’t the only place to catch household musical names live on stage.

Listen to homegrown talent such as James Morrison (8 Jun), Will Young (14 Jun) and Van Morrison (15 Jun) in the palace courtyard at Hampton Court Palace.

The line-up includes Bryan Ferry (7 & 21 Jun), pianist Jools Holland (16 Jun) and ABBA tribute band Björn Again (17 Jun), plus soul singer Corinne Bailey Rae (20 Jun) and 1980s star Rick Astley (22 Jun). The classical duo Michael Ball and Alfie Boe also perform (23 Jun), while the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra play at the firework finale (24 Jun). Take a picnic or browse the food court, which comes complete with a Pimm’s tent. 8-24 Jun. www.hamptoncourtpalacefestival.com MELTDOWN Back in town, the Southbank Centre’s Meltdown festival fuses gigs by well-known and upcoming musicians with free films, a carnival and a party on the pavement 16 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

outside Riverside Terrace. Since 1993, Meltdown has presented a line-up of new and influential artists cherry-picked by a distinguished musician. Past curators have included David Bowie and Morrissey.

Each star invites their favourite artists to perform in a series of one-off gigs. Previous highlights saw Jeff Buckley play his final UK show for Elvis Costello, and Pete Doherty sing Disney songs with Jarvis Cocker.

This year’s curator is M.I.A., a British-Sri Lankan rapper and visual artist who has been nominated for two Grammys, a Mercury Prize and an Academy Award. She has worked with Madonna, Nicki Minaj, Kanye West and Jay Z, so expect everything from nu rave and dancehall to electro and hip hop.

M.I.A. says: ‘I’m honoured to be part of Meltdown, among important artists who have contributed to keeping it real in the past. I hope you rate my curating. I’m bringing together new outlaw musicians who have contributed to keeping things weird, exciting, opinionated, loud, emotional, brave or off the grid.’

The line-up kicks off with Mercury Prize-winners the Young

Fathers, who open the festival with a choir, followed by a party at the Royal Festival Hall (9 Jun). The following night, Afrikan Boy performs afrobeats and grime (10 Jun), while rapper MHD performs alongside Nigerian afrobeat star Mr Eazi (11 Jun).

As well as a performance by Swedish rapper Yung Lean (14 Jun), the festival includes the UK premiere of Jamaican reggae artist I Wayne (15 Jun). M.I.A. is set to close the festival (18 Jun). 9-18 Jun. www.southbankcentre.co.uk MIGHTY HOOPLA This festival is headlined by 2016 Brit Award-winners Years & Years. Will Young, All Saints and S Club 3 perform too, as does Charlotte Church – who covers Bowie, Britney and Beyoncé with a 10-piece band.

You can boogie to Sophie Ellis-Bextor, too.

The festival also celebrates rising stars such as Raye and Porter. But it wouldn’t be east London without a hipster band, so the 10-piece Old Dirty Brasstards round things off.

Stalls sell cocktails, craft ales and food. You can also dance to DJs, watch a surreal show

by Figs in Wigs, join in a karaoke for the masses and play bingo.

4 Jun. www.mighty hoopla.com

ADELE © ALASDAIR MCLELLAN; ELTON JOHN COURTESY OF TWICKENHAM STOOP; MELTDOWN © TERRY OBIORA; DANCING CITY © KEITH MORRIS; FIREWORKS COURTESY OF LIVE AT CHELSEA; JUSTIN BIEBER COURTESY OF BRITISH SUMMER TIME

mas www.ticket festival’s • Visit eachsite web

HAMPTON COURT PICNIC © JENNA FOXTON/FANATIC; GREEN DAY COURTESY OF BRITISH SUMMER TIME; ROYAL ALBERT HALL COURTESY OF ROYAL ALBERT HALL; GRAPHICS © ISTOCK

Clockwise from this image: Live at Chelsea; Hampton Court Palace Festival; Green Day; Greenwich+Docklands International Festival; Meltdown Below left: Justin Bieber Below right: Royal Albert Hall

GREENWICH+DOCKLANDS INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL Like Meltdown, Greenwich+Docklands International Festival is also well established: it’s been going since 1996. More a celebration of street art and theatre than a music festival, the event has expanded to 16 days. This year, 100,000 people are expected to attend its free outdoor performances.

The festival’s artistic director Bradley Hemmings says: ‘There are advantages to performing outside. We can use amazing settings such as Canary Wharf, Old Royal Naval College or the atmospheric ruins of St George’s Garrison Church in Woolwich.

Then there’s the informal experience of sharing a performance outdoors with friends.

Even if you’re watching alone, you’ll get swept up in the marvellous sense of community that arises during an outdoor theatre show.

The challenge is that, without a theatre, we must build everything from scratch.’

Hemmings co-directed the London 2012 Paralympic Games Opening Ceremony, and curates the Liberty Festival, which promotes arts by people who are deaf and disabled.

He adds: ‘We think hard about engaging deaf and disabled artists and audiences.

Look for viewing areas for wheelchair users, captioned performances and British Sign Language interpreters. This year I’m particularly excited about Deaf Men

Dancing’s Corazón a Corazón, which brings together tango, British Sign Language and aerial performance.’

So how does Hemmings choose the acts?

‘We keep up to date with what’s happening in street arts. This means supporting the development of new shows or travelling to see performances – recently I’ve met artists in Krakow, Antwerp, Brighton and Edinburgh, who will at some stage make their way to audiences in east London,’ he explains. ‘I seek out shows that capture people’s imagination, tell stories in accessible ways and encourage us to look at the world differently. I love performances with an element of surprise.’

Last year acrobats, jugglers and robots roamed the streets – as well as creepy giant heads and a dancing octopus puppet the size of a van. Festival-goers also witnessed fire spectacles, illuminations and musicians playing inside a moving sculpture.

‘Last year’s opening night combined video projections, pyrotechnics, narration and choreography,’ Hemmings says. ‘This year we are running a one-day street arts celebration (25 Jun) called Out in the Streets,, marking the 50th anniversary of the decriminalisation of homosexuality.

We’re cooking up something even more ambitious for next year.’ Fireworks will bring the festival to a close.

From 23 Jun. www.festival.org

LIVE AT CHELSEA Live at Chelsea sparks into life with The Chelsea Fireworks Prom (16 Jun) at the Royal Hospital Chelsea, which was designed

by Sir Christopher Wren in 1682. The Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra plays Rule, Britannia! and Jerusalem. You can also watch Belle and Sebastian (15 Jun) perform.

15-18 Jun. www.liveatchelsea.com ■

• On the Royal Albert Hall’s Grand Tour, you might catch a rehearsal taking place in the auditorium (below).

• During the Royal Opera House’s

Velvet, Gilt and Glamour tour, you will learn about opera singers who have graced its stage since 1858.

• On the Barbican’s Private Backstage

Tour, you can explore the Grade II-listed multi-arts venue.

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TOWEL DOWN The towel used on court by players Wimbledon Men’s 2017 Championship Towel, £30, Wimbledon Shop, All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE 18 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

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Visit the Victoria and Albert Museum, as it celebrates the fashion icon Cristóbal Balenciaga SPONSORED BY AMERICAN EXPRESS influence on modern fashion. See more than 100 pieces by the master of couture, his protégés and contemporary designers working in the same innovative way today.

Archive sketches, patterns, photographs, fabric samples and catwalk footage reveal Balenciaga’s uncompromising creativity.

In addition, X-ray technology, animated patterns and short films uncover the hidden details that made his work so exceptional.

This landmark exhibition marks the

centenary of the opening of Balenciaga’s first fashion house in San Sebastian and the 80th anniversary of the opening of his famous fashion house in Paris.

The exhibition takes an in-depth look at the craftsmanship behind Balenciaga’s designs and explores his impact through designers who worked with him and those who show his influence today.

Victoria and Albert Museum, Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. www.vam.ac.uk

ALBERTA TIBURZI IN ‘ENVELOPE’ DRESS © HIRO 1967; BALENCIAGA AT WORK IN PARIS, 1968 © HENRI CARTIER-BRESSON/MAGNUM PHOTOS; EVENING DRESS, SILK TAFFETA, CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA, PARIS, 1954 © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM; ORANGE COAT, PARIS, FRANCE, 1954 © MARK SHAW, MPTVIMAGES.COM; DOVIMA WITH SACHA, PARIS, 1955. PHOTOGRAPH BY RICHARD AVEDON © THE RICHARD AVEDON FOUNDATION

ristóbal Balenciaga is one of the most innovative and influential designers of the 20th century. His unique and forward-thinking vision of female beauty, pioneering use of textiles and ingenious pattern-cutting shaped the modernity of 1960s fashion and are still relevant today.

Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion is the first UK exhibition to explore the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga and his profound and continuing

20 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE | WHERE LONDON

BOOK ONLINE www.vam.ac.uk/balenciaga £12, concessions available.

BOOK IN PERSON £13.50 (including donation)/£12, concessions available.

BOOK BY PHONE T: 0800-912 6961 Prices as above, plus £2 booking fee per ticket. Phone bookings must be made 24 hours prior to visit.

There is a concessionary ticket rate of £3 per person for educational groups of 10 or more for advanced telephone booking only. Free for under 12s and up to two carers accompanying people with disabilities.

www.wheretraveler.com 21

SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: Nomura International PLC’s garden in the City; Eccleston Square; Roof Garden in Canary Wharf Inset: King Henry’s Walk Garden

Open Garden Squares Weekend gives you the keys to garden gates across the city, says Sarah Riches This month you can escape the concrete jungle during Open Garden Squares Weekend (17-18 Jun). Organised by London Parks & Gardens Trust, the event grants access to private or little-known public spaces that you might not otherwise hear about.

The event launched in 1998 with 40 private squares, and has since expanded to include 230 diverse spaces including allotments, skips, churchyards and rooftops.

One of this year’s highlights is a chance to visit Crossrail Place Roof Garden, which sits above Canary Wharf Crossrail station; the exotic garden is inspired by the area’s rich maritime heritage.

Sit and soak in the sights and scents of the garden’s ferns, grasses and flowering shrubs.

The trust’s chairman, Ed Ikin, says: ‘My favourite garden is Sycamore House, a care home in Hammersmith, west London. It’s full of fruit and plants that exploit a microclimate. It reminds me that good gardening can happen in any space with the requisite skills and willpower.’

This year, old favourites including Fulham Palace and SOAS’s Japanese Roof Garden 22 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

are taking part, as well as some new venues such as the walled garden at the 17th-century Forty Hall in Barnet; Keats House – where the Romantic poet John Keats once strolled – and Gasholder Park, designed in 1850s’ cast iron gasholders at King’s Cross.

There is a host of activities, too. Sip cocktails made with fruit and herbs from The Brunel Museum’s garden while enjoying a sound and light show in its underground chamber.

You can also try your hand at beekeeping and candle-making, or taste honey and honey beer at Bee Urban in Kennington Park.

Ikin adds: ‘Visitors can make herbal tea bags at Cordwainers Garden in Hackney, take part in a workshop with a botanical illustrator at Highgate Day Centre Garden and do yoga in King George V Memorial Garden in Canons Park.’

Children, meanwhile, can go pond dipping at Haringey Railway Fields, plant flowers at All Saints Church garden in West Dulwich, watch a traditional Punch and Judy show in Eaton Square in Belgravia, and hear a story and tie a wish to a tree of hope at Camden’s World Peace Garden.

Need a pit stop? Then visit the vegetarian café at Freightliners City Farm in Islington, or sample some botanical-inspired gin cocktails and gin and tonic ice cream from the Gin Garden at pretty Cleveland Square, not far from Paddington station.

You can also take afternoon tea at the Grade II-listed Grange White Hall Hotel. Once a Georgian townhouse, the hotel is located close to The British Museum in Bloomsbury. No doubt you will have a blooming lovely weekend. www.opensquares.org

NOMURA INTERNATIONAL PLC © DIANA JARVIS; KING HENRY’S WALK GARDEN N1 © OPEN GARDEN SQUARES WEEKEND; ECCLESTON SQUARE SW1 © NEVILLE CAPIL; ROOF GARDEN CANARY WHARF © NUNZIO PRENNA

Secret gardens

Sightseeing Coach Tours l Open Top Bus Tours Warner Bros. Studio Tour London l London Bike Tours Attraction Tickets l Groups l UK & Paris Rail Trips 020 7630 2039

www.goldentours.com

TM & © 2017 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR.

kids gofree with a FAMILY RIVER PASS

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and times for last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington (which is also known as Number One, London) to see its grand interiors and fine art. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ apsleyhouse. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens.

Daily 10am-1pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6.50; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm with donkeys, chinchillas and goats. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £7.50. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

The British Library The world’s largest library also boasts temporary exhibitions and a great permanent collection.

To 29 Aug: Russian Revolution: Hope, Tragedy, Myths. A century on from the Russian Revolution, this major exhibition shines new light on the unprecedented and world-changing events of the period. Exhibition galleries Mon & Fri 9.30am-6pm; Tue-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. It’s usually closed to the public (except in summer). www.royalcollection. org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Changing the Guard

Dr Johnson’s House

Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather).

During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. Free. Please check for days and times. www.householddivision.org.uk.

Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this period home, which dates from the 18th century. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsons house.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 0207353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

Chelsea Physic Garden

Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace, make yourself at home as a guest of the Courtaulds.

Please check for prices and times. www.englishheritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

London’s oldest botanic garden, founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. 8 Jun: Introduction to Beekeeping. Adult £10.50; child £6.95. Mon 11am-5pm garden only; Tue-Fri 11am-6pm garden and shop; Sun 11am-6pm garden, shop and café. www.chelsea physicgarden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Chiswick House & Gardens Trust See Old Masters on display in this manor, which features neo-Palladian interiors designed by William Kent. 14-15 Jun: Light Devine, a Night Sublime. Hear Handel’s melodies. Gardens daily 7am-dusk; house Sun-Wed 10am-6pm; conservatory Tue-Sun 10am4pm. House adult £7.20; child £4.30. www.chgt. org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

Cutty Sark

Fulham Palace This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London.

17 Jun: Open Garden Squares Weekend (p. 22).

17 Jun: Outdoor Theatre – The Comedy of Errors.

18 Jun: Edwardian Garden Party. Music, entertainment, games, storytelling and activities at this annual affair. Museum, historic rooms and shop Mon-Thur 12.30pm-4.30pm; Sun noon-5pm.

Admission free, charges for special events. www. fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Avenue, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

Go Ape Alexandra Palace

This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. 7, 14, 21 & 28 Jun: Toddler Time. Songs, stories and playtime. Daily 10am-5pm.

Adult £13.50; child £7. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark.

Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 0208312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

A new treetop obstacle course with ladders, bridges and zip lines has opened for kids and adults alike. Daily from 9am. Adult £20; child £20-£27. www.goape.co.uk. Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, N22 7AY. T: 0330-057 2329.

Off map. Station: Alexandra Palace.

Dennis Severs’ House

Go Ape Battersea Park

Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of artist Dennis Severs. Silent night tour Mon; Wed & Fri 5pm-9pm. Daytime tour Mon noon-2pm & Sun noon-4pm. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevershouse.co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Queen bees A new exhibition shines the spotlight on three women who married into the British royal family. Enlightened Princesses: Caroline, Augusta, Charlotte and the Shaping of the Modern World (from 22 Jun; p. 26) is taking place at Kensington Palace. The exhibition explores the princesses’ influence on the arts, science and philanthropy.

Joanna Marschner, senior curator at Historic Royal Palaces, says: ‘Until now, these princesses’ contributions have been little understood and it’s the aim of this exhibition to demonstrate how they influenced their era in the most vibrant of ways.’

24 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

Eltham Palace & Gardens

Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground, which is suitable for children over six and adults. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness.

Daily from 8.30am. Adult £35; child £27-£35. www.goape.co.uk. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0330-057 2329. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Golden Hinde II A full-size reconstruction of Sir Francis Drake’s 16th-century vessel, in which he circumnavigated the globe. Regular events include dressing up in historical costumes, quiz nights and battle workshops. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Guided tour adult £7; child £5. www.goldenhinde.com.

1 Pickfords Wharf, Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0123. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses.

Its gardens are said to be haunted. Please check for times. Adult £10.80; child £5.40. www.nationaltrust. org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950.

Off map. Station: Richmond.

Handel & Hendrix in London Former homes of Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix.

See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was in 1968-69. 10 Jun: Learn to Play Like Hendrix! Learn the secrets of the Hendrix sound. Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm; Sun noon-6pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.handel house.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685.

D6. Station: Bond Street.

QUEEN CHARLOTTE BY JOHANN JOSEPH ZOFFANY 1771, ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2017

SIGHTSEEING

SIGHTSEEING

GREENWICH MUSIC TIME COURTESY OF GREENWICH MUSIC TIME; ONBLACKHEATH COURTESY OF ONBLACKHEATH; GREENWICH+DOCKLANDS INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL © STEVE EGGLETON

ADVER TORIAL

Greenwich festivals There are sensational festival events in Greenwich this summer, beginning with Greenwich+Docklands International Festival (from 23 Jun).

This outdoor arts celebration features dancers, street theatre performers and musicians around Greenwich and Docklands. Greenwich Music Time (from 30 Jun) at the Old Royal Naval College showcases musicians you are unlikely to come across at any other event including Cliff Richard, Little Mix, The Jacksons, Alexander O’Neal, Michael Ball and Alfie Boe. A short walk through Greenwich Park brings you to Blackheath where the second of this year’s maelstroms of music is OnBlackheath (10-11 Sep), two days of turbo-charged food and festival fun.

The Libertines, Travis and De La Soul are among the headliners, while chefs will be on hand on the foodie field. www.visitgreenwich.org.uk/events

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SIGHTSEEING HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser.

It was in service until 1965. Daily 10am-6pm.

Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm.org.uk.

The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament Site of Parliament since 1265 and still a royal palace, the current building including Big Ben was built in the 19th century. Watch debates for free when the houses are in session after the general election (from 13 Jun). Tours on Sat & Mon-Fri (please check).

Advance audio tour adult £18.50, child £7.50 (first

child free); advance guided tour adult £25.50, child £11. On the day audio tour adult £20.50, child £8.50 (first child free); on the day guided tour adult £28, child £12. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire.

Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219.

F8. Station: Westminster.

SEE INSIDE THE WORLD FAMOUS ROYAL ALBERT HALL GROUPS 15+ Special rates apply

Keats House This beautiful 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. See his paintings, books, letters and household items, plus the engagement ring he gave to his sweetheart Fanny Brawne. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/keatshouse hampstead. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 020-7332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home. Diana: Her Fashion Story. An exhibition dedicated to the style of the ‘people’s princess’. From 22 Jun: Enlightened Princesses: Caroline, Augusta, Charlotte and the Shaping of the Modern World. This exhibition shines a light on to three women who married into the British royal family (p. 24). Daily, please check for times.

Adult £17; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map.

Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Admire Robert Adams’ interiors and an art collection made up of Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough. Free admission. Please check for times. www.englishheritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kew Palace This royal retreat in the grounds of Kew Gardens was home to King George III. Don’t miss the Royal Kitchens and its garden (p. 27). Admission free with Kew Garden tickets. www.hrp.org.uk. Kew Gardens, Richmond, TW9 3AB. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map.

Station: Kew Gardens.

KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has two storeys of everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory, pit lane and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. You’ll leave wondering why there wasn’t a KidZania when you were growing up... which is why it hosts occasional adult nights. Daily from 10am, call for closing times. Adult £18; child £39. www.london.kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

ROYAL ALBERT HALL

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Special effects and actors bring this spine-tingling scary attraction to life. Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Please check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridge experience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 0207403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The London Dungeon

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR VISIT End your tour with a luxurious afternoon tea

Call: 020 7589 8212 royalalberthall.com 26 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

/royalalberthall @royalalberthall

This uniquely thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and (ahem) smell the chillingly amusing characters of the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you. Not for small children or the faint-hearted. Joint tickets available with Sea Life London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Aquarium, London Eye, Shrek’s Adventure! and Madame Tussauds. Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-423 2240. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

SIGHTSEEING Coca-Cola London Eye

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew

This icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Interactive screens in each pod give an insight into landmarks on view. You can make your visit even more memorable with a glass of Champagne, chocolate tasting or another unique experience. Joint tickets available with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Shrek’s Adventure! and Madame Tussauds. Check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic, this includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. Park open 24 hours daily.

Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark. co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda. The treetop walkway offers great views. Throughout 2017 you can also experience The Hive, an enormous aluminium structure that is modelled on a beehive and surrounded by wildflowers. Buzzing and lights play inside it in response to a real beehive.

Daily from 10am, please check for closing times.

Adult £15; child £3.50; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Kew, Richmond, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. As well as an aquarium, penguin beach and endangered Sumatran tigers, you can see the new Land of the Lions exhibition – which features Asiatic lions in surroundings designed to resemble an Indian national park. 2-30 Jun: Zoo Nights. Adults can see the zoo after-hours over drinks and street food, and attend talks with grown-up themes. You can test your knowledge in Zooniversity Challenge and become an eco-detective in an interactive, forensic trail that shines a light on the illegal wildlife trade. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £29.75; child £22. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

Ripley’s Believe It or Not! This curiosity-filled museum has more than 700 artefacts. Explore a range of oddities, from a shrunken head to an albino alligator. Daily 10ammidnight. Adult £27.99; child £20.99. www.ripleys london.com. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 0203238 0022. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Madame Tussauds Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Pose with your favourite legend and visit the terrifying Chamber of Horrors and Scream experiences. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition, featuring 11 sets from the film.

The Game’s Afoot, an immersive attraction with actors, illusion and sound effects, is a highlight. Joint tickets available with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Shrek’s Adventure! and London Eye. Check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madame tussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

The Monument This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £4.50; child £2.30. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument. org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717.

E10. Station: Monument.

The O2 Music and exhibition venue. Star Wars Identities.

As you browse 200 original sketches, models and props from the popular film franchise, you’ll be asked questions about your personality to reveal which Star Wars character you are. Mon-Sat 10am6pm. Tickets £10-£20. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map.

Station: North Greenwich.

Old Royal Naval College This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. During a temporary conservation project, you can only see the ceiling on a tour from an observation deck (adult £10; child £5). Check for guided tours. Daily, check for opening times.

Admission free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

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www.wheretraveler.com 27

SIGHTSEEING The Royal Institution of Great Britain

The Royal Observatory

Sea Life London Aquarium

This grand Grade I-listed Georgian building houses a fascinating museum about the institution’s 15 Nobel Prize-winning scientists.

Mon-Fri 9am-6pm. Admission free; charges for talks. www.rigb.org. 21 Albemarle St, W1S 4BS. T: 020-7409 2992. E6. Station: Green Park.

The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium. Learn about time in the Peter Harrison Galleries and watch planetarium shows throughout the day. The Sky Tonight. Planetarium show that explores the Moon, constellations, planets and deep space objects. To 25 Jun: Insight Astronomy Photographer of the Year. The biggest international competition of its kind showcases spectacular images shot by astrophotographers. Meridian Line and Observatory daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Avenue, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map.

Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.

One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a scary glass walkway above 16 sharks. Ocean Invaders: Enter the World of Jellyfish.

Get up close to a swarm of jellyfish at this permanent exhibition. You can also snorkel with sharks (from £80 including admission). Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with London Eye, London Dungeon, Shrek’s Adventure! and Madame Tussauds. www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001.

F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

The Royal Mews Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm (closed 3, 6-7, 10 & 17 Jun). Adult £10; child £5.80. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

Shrek’s Adventure!

Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed shows where you can meet the characters from the much-loved films. Joint tickets available with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Sea Life London Aquarium. Please check for times.

Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreksadventure.com.

Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Palace One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in the 14th century and home to royalty for three centuries. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.

St Katharine Docks This central London marina dates back to the 11th century and is tucked away by the Tower of London. The vibrant waterside destination is lined with regular markets, shops, galleries such as Artopia and The Alexander Miles Gallery, and restaurants including CAU, Tom’s Kitchen, Bravas Tapas and White Mulberries. www.skdocks.co.uk.

50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287.

Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brassrubbing centre and live classical music (some free).

Classical music performed weekly by candlelight and Holy Communion given daily. Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org.

Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

St Paul’s Cathedral Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama.

Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. Don’t miss Oculus: An Eye into St Paul’s, a 270-degree film experience, for an excellent overview. Free tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls. co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 0207246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

18 Stafford Terrace This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne, his wife Marion, their two children and their live-in servants, who lived here from 1875. A highlight is a costumed actor-led tour, on which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell for a dramatic account based on old diaries. Wed; SatSun pre-booked tours 11am; drop in 2pm-5.30pm.

Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk.

18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316.

Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

28 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

SIGHTSEEING Tower Bridge Exhibition

WWT London Wetland Centre

This breathtaking bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand, but much older neighbour, London Bridge). It has wonderful views; check out the glass floor on the high walkways.

You can also tour the engine rooms with a guide.

Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Please check for prices. www.tower bridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 0207403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

This 104-acre wildlife reserve has a Water’s Edge Café overlooking lakes, ponds and gardens which are home to over 100 species of rare and wild birds. There are zip wires, traverse the climbing wall and water tunnels where you can get wet.

Kids can also operate underwater cameras.

Otters are fed daily at 11am and 2pm. To 4 Jun: Grass Animal Zoo. Life-size artificial grass animals.

11 Jun: Drawing Workshop. 17 Jun: Intro to Wildlife Photography. 24 Jun: Try an Electric Bike. Open all year round. Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £12.26; child £6.75. www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map.

Station: Barnes.

Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Anne Boleyn was beheaded in 1536 for treason against Henry VIII; her ghost supposedly haunts the chapel of St Peter ad Vincula, where she is buried. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Please check for prices. www.hrp. org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS Fair in the Square 17 Jun: The pretty north London village of

Highgate comes alive with a tropical theme at this quaint local festival, complete with Punch and Judy puppet shows, fire engines, a sheep shearing show, fair rides and circus workshops.

There will also be 100 stalls selling street food and crafts. It’s a fun family day out, in which thousands of people are expected to attend.

Free, though charges for rides etc. 12.30pm5.30pm. www.fairinthesquare.co.uk. Pond Square & South Grove, N6 6BS. Off map.

Station: Archway/Highgate.

The Vault This venue used to protect the Queen’s treasures under the old Coutts Bank; it’s now home to the Gaultier bustier from Madonna’s Blond Ambition tour.

See that and other rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia at the Hard Rock Cafe’s museum. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm.

Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The View from The Shard Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed ‘kaleidoscopic’ lift. At 309m, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free. If you pre-book you can also do yoga on Saturdays at 8.30am (£45). Daily 10am10pm. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfrom theshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾ (p. 10). Please check for times. Adult £39; child £31. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.english-heritage.org.uk.

Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. Mon-Sat, please check for times. Adult £20; child £9. www.westminster-abbey. org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7.

Station: Westminster/St James’s Park. www.wheretraveler.com 29

SIGHTSEEING London Bridge City Summer Festival

Open Garden Squares Weekend

To 31 Aug: This free festival between London

17-18 Jun: Explore more than 230 private, secret

Bridge and Tower Bridge returns for a third year to London Bridge City. Large screens show films and live screenings of Royal Opera House performances, Wimbledon tennis, the World Athletics Championships and the ICC Cricket Champions Trophy. The cycling café Look Mum No Hands also screens the Tour de France at a pop-up bar and hosts Cycle Speed Dating. You can take part in fitness and dance classes and urban gardening. Kids can enjoy a lawn library, workshops and a Mad Hatter’s tea party. Free. www.londonbridgecity.co.uk. London Bridge City, SE1 2DB. E11. Station: London Bridge.

and little-known gardens across 27 London boroughs (p. 22). This event grants you access to spaces that are usually private while promoting little-known spaces that you might not otherwise hear about such as private gardens, roof gardens, community allotments, gardens belonging to historic buildings, institutions, cafés, schools, shops and cemeteries. The weekend is run almost entirely by volunteers, and was founded in 1998

by Caroline Aldiss with the support of the London Parks and Gardens Trust and English Heritage.

Booking required. Adult £15; child £12. www.opensquares.org. Various locations.

RIVER TRIPS Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower of London), returning non stop to Westminster. 11am-6.30pm. Adult single £10, return £14; child single £5, return £7. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music Fri-Sat. Other cruises also available. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com.

Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7740 0400.

Departure points vary.

London Duck Tours Ideal if you’re keen for an amphibious adventure. See some of London’s best-loved sights on land before a thrilling splashdown on the Thames. Adult £27; child £19. www.london ducktours.co.uk. 55 York Rd, SE1 7NJ. T: 020-7928 3132. F8. Station: Waterloo.

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.58. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8.

Station: Waterloo.

MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 20 piers across the capital. Oyster cards are valid. Tip: Download its free in:flow app. Using GPS tracking to find out your location, it can provide a real-time audio explanation of the sights you see as you pass them. River Roamer hop-on and off adult £16.30; child £8.15. www.thamesclippers.com. Departure points vary along the River Thames.

T: 020-7001 2200.

Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service with live audio commentary departs from Westminster Pier (10am-5pm) and St Katharine’s (10.20am-5.20pm) every 30 minutes for Greenwich Pier and the Thames Barrier. Please check for prices (35 per cent online discount Mon-Fri). www.thames riverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8.

Station: Westminster.

Thamesjet Try this 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience on a high-speed powered speedboat – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 11am.

Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.

30 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

SIGHTSEEING

TOURS & GUIDED WALKS Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours.

A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £35; child £16.20. www.bigbus tours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.

Station: Victoria.

Big Bus Walking Tours Choose from three guided tours: Royal London at 10am; Harry Potter at 1.30pm and Haunting Mysteries at 4.30pm. All take 90 minutes to two hours. £5, or free with a Big Bus Tour. Daily. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop 10, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 0207808 6753. Station: Charing Cross.

GoToMidtown Tours More than 100 themed 45-minute free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require pre-booking. 10am & 1pm walks start at the orange information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station. www.bee-midtown.org. 88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA. T: 020-7078 7077. D7/8.

Station: Holborn.

Jack the Ripper Tours Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer Jack the Ripper, who terrorised the East End in the late 1800s. Numbers are limited

Billingsgate Roman House & Baths Beneath the curious cobbled pathways of the Square Mile lies a rich Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years of building, fires and bombings. Lower Thames Street is home to one of Roman London’s most fascinating remains. The Billingsgate Roman Bathhouse was discovered in 1848, and is now open to the public. Explore this insight into ancient life in the City on a 45-minute guided tour. £8 adult; £6 child. Please check for times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

in order to give participants a better experience.

Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com.

Aldgate East Underground station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

London Chocolate Tours Sample truffles and ganaches in Mayfair’s finest chocolatiers on this two-hour tour by a former cocoa trader. Along the way you’ll learn how chocolate is made. Booking essential. Sun 12.30pm. £15 for Where London readers (usually £39). Departs from The Ritz London by Green Park. www.tourguides.org.uk. T: 020-8526 7755. E6. Station: Green Park.

WINNER OF THE

NOMINEE FOR

NOMINEE FOR

TOP HORROR ATTRACTION IN THE WORLD

BEST UK ATTRACTION GROUP LEISURE AWARDS

BEST ATTRACTION FOR GROUP VISITS

WORLDWIDE ATTRACTION AWARDS

WINNER OF THE

UK’S SCARIEST ATTRACTION

FOR 8 YEARS IN A ROW

GROUP TRAVEL AWARDS

WINNER OF THE

BEST GUIDED TOUR GROUP LEISURE AWARDS

Capital Taxi Tours A knowledgeable Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including Doctor Who – on which you’ll see a Tardis, locations from the films and television series – and one for TV Downton Abbey fans.

Prices vary and are per taxi; check for more details. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.

City of London Guides Walks A variety of original themed walks, focusing on everything from Fleet Street – the home of journalism – to Smithfield Market and City gardens. Free-£12. www.cityoflondonguides.com.

Departure points vary.

Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratfordupon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.

Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from London to popular locations such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle.

The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary.

T: 020-7630 2039. Station: Victoria.

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets.

Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

TAKE AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH LONDON’S SPOOKY HISTORY

TheLondonBridgeExperience.com

The London Bridge Experience, 2-4 Tooley Street, London Bridge, London SE1 2SY

FREE audio guides available

www.wheretraveler.com 31

SIGHTSEEING The London Helicopter Tour

London Horror Tours

Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter with its uninterrupted views.

Departing from London’s only heliport, glide above the River Thames, taking in iconic landmarks including Tower of London, St Paul’s and The Shard. You can choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or spook yourself with an 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£375 per person). Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour; check for details. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 020-7887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

Be spooked by ghost stories and tales of Jack the Ripper, Sweeney Todd and the Krays on tours run by Dr Jack, an actor, entertainer and former guide. Please visit its Facebook page for more information, and call for times and prices.

Departure points vary. T: 07722-247660.

London Literary Pub Crawl See where the giants of the London literary world ate, drank and worked. This unique tour is artist-led and arranged by the Maverick Theatre Company. Starting in Fitzrovia and ending in Soho, it includes pubs and bars associated with the British Film industry and historic and

contemporary writers. Please check for dates.

Tickets £24. www.londonliterarypubcrawl.com.

12 Fouberts Place, Carnaby St, W1F 7PA. T: 020-8090 5082. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Favourites include the Jack the Ripper Walk (daily 7.30pm & Sat 3pm from Tower Hill), a Harry Potter tour (selected Wed & every Sat-Sun 2pm; departure points vary) and a spooky Ghost Walk (daily 7.30pm, departure points vary). Walks take two hours and there’s no need to book. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

Original London Sightseeing Walk

THE VIEW YOU’LL NEVER FORGET

Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre and include Changing the Guard (departing 10am); Rock ‘n’ Roll (1pm) and Jack the Ripper (3.30pm from Tower Hill Station).

Walking tours are free with an Original London Sightseeing Tour, or £9.50 per walk. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £19. www.theoriginal tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. The extended 48-hour tour includes double the time to explore London as well as an extended River Cruise Pass with access to historic Greenwich. Adult £32; child £15. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7.

Station: Charing Cross.

PlanetPass PlanetPass is an app that allows you to book a private guided tour for up to six people at any time or day. Choose from street art, Jack the Ripper, a Borough Market one for foodies and more. From £9 per person. www.planetpass.com.

Various meeting points. T: 01865-922380.

Station: Various.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall (p. 17). Most days throughout the year; call for times. Adult £13; child £6. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Opera House

Book Online & Save

londoneye.com Conceived and designed by Marks Barfield Architects.

‘Coca-Cola’, the Dynamic Ribbon Device and the design of the ‘Coca-Cola Contour Bottle’ are registered trademarks of The Coca-Cola Company.

32 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

One of the world’s leading opera venues, also home to the Royal Ballet company (p. 17).

Backstage Tour. Tour behind the scenes for an insight into the venue’s history, where you may also see a production in rehearsal. Most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, but please check.

Adult £12; child £8.50. www.royaloperahouse.org.

Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm, 8pm, 8.30pm, 9.15pm, 9.45pm & 10.15pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6.

Station: Green Park.

SIGHTSEEING Shakespeare’s Globe (Tours) This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs, while the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candlelit performance space.

Tours Mon-Sun 9am-5pm. Exhibition Mon-Sun 9am-5pm. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £16; child £9. www.shakespearesglobe.com.

21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 0207902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Walkit Innovative site aiming to get people out on foot. Enter your starting point and destination (including street, place or postcode), and the site will work out a route map, distance, time, calorie burn and carbon saving. www.walkit.com.

Wembley Tours Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Have your photo taken with a replica of the FA Cup. From 10am; please check for dates.

Adult £20; child £12. www.wembleystadium.com/ wembley-tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

Westways Carriage Horses Get collected from your hotel and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage.

Tours last 2½ hours in either a four or six-seater carriage with an adjustable hood depending on the weather. £475 per carriage. www.westways carriagehorses.co.uk. T: 020-8572 3155.

OUT OF TOWN Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. See Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask.

To 4 Jun: The Needles Excellency.

Contemporary work inspired by 17th-century English embroidery in the Ashmolean collection, including caskets and picture panels stitched in a variety of silks and metal threads using raised work techniques. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Free admission, charges for special exhibitions. www.ashmolean. org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865278000. Off map. Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. 3-4 Jun: Triathlon. 8-12 Jun: Giffords Circus.

15-18 Jun: Nocturne Live. A series of outdoor concerts, including one from the composer of the scores for Harry Potter, E.T., Star Wars and Indiana Jones.

23-25 Jun: Blenheim Palace Flower Show. Palace daily 10.30am-5.30pm; park daily 9am-6pm; formal gardens daily 10.30am-6pm. Adult £24.90; child £13.90. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map.

Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

Hampton Court Palace Once home to King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and maze is set in 60 acres of parkland right on the river Thames. You could easily spend a day here.

Palace, formal gardens and maze daily 10am-6pm.

Adult £23; child £11.50. www.hrp.org.uk.

Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Leeds Castle Fairytale 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze, and see 100 species of birds in the aviary.

To 4 Jun: Chelsea Fringe – Inside Out. The gardeners of Leeds Castle are turning their world ‘inside out’ and reinventing the garden shed with a miniature recreation of Leeds Castle gardens on the inside, and the tools of their trade on the outside. Grounds & gardens daily 10am6pm; castle daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult £24.90; child £16.90. www.leeds-castle.com. Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765400. Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its delightful formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom. House 11am-5pm; garden 10am-5pm. Adult £10.90; child £5.45. www.national trust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

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SIGHTSEEING

LOSE YOURSELF IN THE

Palace of Holyroodhouse

CROWN JEWELS

The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Tour highlights include the state apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots’ chamber. Daily 9.30am-6pm.

Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.royalcollection.org. uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley, then a 15-minute walk.

Treasures that united the kingdom

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. Daily 9am-8pm. Adult £17.50; child £10.50. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Syon Park This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is home to the Duke of Northumberland. Don’t miss the incredible interiors, Grade I-listed landscape gardens and Great Conservatory. Please check for times and prices. www.syonpark.co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.

Nearest tube Tower Hill Royal Collection Trust © 2017, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

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Waddesdon Manor Renaissance-style chateau built in the late 19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and aviary. Please check for times and prices. www.waddesdonmanor.org. Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296653226. Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown.

To 4 Jun: Wars of the Roses Live! Live jousting tournament. 17 Jun: Kingmakers Medieval Banquet.

A four-course meal with drinks and medieval entertainment. Please check for times. Castle adult £26.40; child £23.40; castle & dungeon adult £31.40, child £28.40. www.warwick-castle.com. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Off map. Station: Warwick.

Explore London’s history.

Discover the story of the capital from prehistoric times to the present day through eight world-class galleries.

FREE ENTRY museumoflondon.org.uk 020 7001 9844 150 London Wall, London EC2Y 5HN Barbican, St Paul’s, Moorgate

34 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

Watts Gallery Artists’ Village An arts and crafts gem in the Surrey Hills, with stunning Victorian paintings and sculptures. Visit The Tea Shop, then wander to the nearby Grade I-listed Watts Chapel. Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50 (Tues £4.75); child free. Down Lane, Compton, Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi.

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. Includes state apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard Mon; Wed; Fri & Sat 11am except Sun. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm.

Adult £20.50; child £12. www.royalcollection.org.uk.

Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304.

Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic house has been home to the earls and dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years. Daily 11am-5pm. Abbey, gardens and deer park adult £17; child £8.50. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333. Off map. Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Serpentine Gallery

The designer of this year’s Summer Pavilion, Diébédo Francis Kéré, is the first African architect to build an installation for the project, says Emma Levine In the lush location of west London’s Kensington Gardens, the Serpentine Gallery has been famous for its annual Summer Pavilion since 2000. Each year, an architect is selected to design a bespoke outdoor installation that hosts the gallery’s summer events, entertainment and displays.

One of the conditions is that this must be their first London structure. Past designers include notable names such as Dame Zaha Hadid, Daniel Libeskind, Ai Weiwei and Oscar Niemeyer, who have come from countries as diverse as Japan, Brazil and China.

This is the first time that an architect from Africa has been honoured for the project – and he’s thrilled. Hailing from the village of Gando in Burkina Faso, this is the first UK project for Diébédo Francis Kéré (from 23 Jun).

Kéré takes a stripped-back approach to his pavilion, reflective of techniques used back home but, of course, adapting to our local environment. A huge wooden disc of timber slats appears to hover from wooden bricks above the blue curving walls, their texture evoking the festive clothing worn in Kéré’s 36 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

village. Importantly for London, the pavilion is rainproof, but it allows natural light to flood in through an oculus in the roof, which is also balanced to funnel water that eventually joins a drainage system to irrigate the gardens.

During the day, the roof and wall act as solar shading, creating dappled shadows, and by night the walls become a source of illumination. It is certainly striking in its simplicity, and a far cry from the dazzling colours and futuristic designs of previous years.

‘The tree was always the most important place in my village,’ he explains. ‘It is where people come together under the shade of its branches to discuss, a place to decide matters about love, about life.’

Such is the raison d’être of the pavilion; it’s a community hub and café by day, transforming into an evening venue for discussion, debate and entertainment. For the next four months, expect a varied programme of events exploring, for example, issues of community and rights, plus the popular Park Nights series with public performances.

For full listing, turn to p. 43

GRAYSON PERRY Taking place at the Serpentine Gallery, Grayson Perry Presents The Most Popular Art Exhibition Ever! (from 8 Jun; above) is a major exhibition of Perry’s new works, drawing on his childhood as a transvestite, plus sex and religion. He says: ‘Nothing pleases me more than meeting someone at one of my exhibitions from what museum people call ‘a non-traditional background.’

ARTHUR JAFA At the Serpentine’s newer wing, the Sackler Gallery, cult US cinematographer Arthur Jafa presents his first UK show Arthur Jafa: A Series of Utterly Improbable, Yet Extraordinary Renditions (from 8 Jun). His work seeks to give black film the prestige and visibility that black music has achieved. See his video installation, Love is the Message, the Message is Death, which has been called ‘a crucial ode to Black America’.

SERPENTINE PAVILION COURTESY OF SERPENTINE GALLERY; GRAYSON PERRY’S DEATH OF A WORKING HERO, 2016, TAPESTRY © THE ARTIST, PARAGON PRESS AND VICTORIA MIRO, LONDON/PHOTOGRAPHER: STEPHEN WHITE

Outdoor art

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and times for last entry. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81.

MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel and Physio Room, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for occasional closures. Self-guided: adult £20; child £10. Legends adult from £40; child from £20.75.

Museum only adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal.com/ tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the Bank of England from its 1694 foundation to the present day, and find lots of fun activities for kids. The Banknote Gallery features historic notes. Capturing the City: Photography at the Bank of England. The bank since the Victorian era. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/ museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House

The Cartoon Museum

Charming 18th-century townhouse, the last home of Franklin, offering architectural tours and historical shows. Please check for days and times. Shows adult £8; under 16s free. Mon guided tours adult £6; under 16s free. www.benjamin franklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Dedicated to British cartoons, caricature and comic art from the 18th century to today. To 24 Jul: The Inking Woman. An exhibition of British female cartoon and comic artists. Mon-Sat 10.30am5.30pm; Sun noon-5.30pm. Adult £7; child free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.

The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Huge permanent displays and treasures from Egypt, Europe and India.

To 18 Jun: The American Dream: Pop to the Present. Timely art exhibition tracing 60 years of a superpower, including works by Andy Warhol. To 13 Aug: Hokusai: Beyond the Great Wave.

Prints from the final 30 years of Hokusai’s career.

To 15 Oct: Desire, Love, Identity: Exploring LGBTQ Histories. A look at LGBTQ culture and history. SatThur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.british museum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

Charles Dickens Museum The former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist.

To 22 Nov: A Dickens Whodunnit: Solving the Mystery of Edwin Drood. Exhibition on Dickens’ final, unfinished novel. Dickensian Walks on selected Weds & Suns 11.30am. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Interactive tour of Chelsea’s ground Stamford Bridge, home of the 2017 Premier League champions. Also monthly tours led by past stars of the game (from £70). Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm. Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm.

Please check for occasional closures. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc. com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Churchill War Rooms Fortified basement where Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II. You can explore the underground bunker and discover what life was like for the prime minister in the Cabinet War Rooms during the war. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £17.25; child £8.60; under fives free. www.iwm.org.uk.

Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 0207930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Clink Prison Museum This former prison dating back to 1144 houses an exhibition about London’s penal past and instruments of torture. It’s said to be haunted by the ghosts of former occupants; check for Haunted Happenings events. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink. co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

Design Museum

Your nose will be in overdrive for this new exhibition at Somerset House. Perfume: A Sensory Journey Through Contemporary Scent (from 21 Jun; p. 42) sniffs out the most significant scents over the past two decades. It also heads back a century to the pioneering Chypre de Coty (1917), said to be a benchmark for countless other 20th-century perfumes, and more contemporary labels such as CK One, which is seen as the first ‘shared fragrance’.

Immerse yourself in these pivotal perfumes and get an insight into their creation and communication, and find out how self-taught perfumers are building their independent brands. Prepare, also, to be shocked by unsavoury aromas such as mould and sweat.

38 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

The Fan Museum Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan with pieces from the 12th century up to today.

From 23 Jun: “In Celebration” – Uneasy Dreamers. A new play about four authors spending a day at a 1920s villa on the French/Italian coast.

Please check for ticket prices. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £4; child £3; under sevens free. www.thefanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

IMAGE © LAZIZ HAMANI

Scent scene

This is one of the world’s leading museums of contemporary design, located in leafy Kensington.

To 4 Jun: Imagine Moscow: Architecture, Propaganda, Revolution. Exhibition exploring six unbuilt architectural landmarks in Moscow following the Russian Revolution.

To 15 Oct: California. Documenting the journey from 1960s counterculture to Silicon Valley’s tech culture. Daily 10am-6pm (last entry 5pm).

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map.

Station: High Street Kensington.

Fall in love with Wimbledon Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites?

Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit.

Supported by

New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE

T: 020 8946 6131 | wimbledon.com/museum

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Fashion and Textile Museum

The Guards Museum

Imperial War Museum

Highlighting contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery from 1947 to the present day.

To 1 Oct: The World of Anna Sui. Looking at the American designer and her rock’n’roll style.

Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur until 8pm; Sun 11am5pm. Adult £9.90; child free. www.ftmlondon.org.

83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664.

F11. Station: London Bridge.

The history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards. Daily 10am-4pm.

Adult £6; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com.

Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: Westminster.

Huge displays of conflicts, particularly those that involve Britain and the Commonwealth, plus the powerful Holocaust Exhibition. To 28 Aug: People Power: Fighting for Peace. Explore how peace movements have influenced perceptions of war and conflict. To 28 Aug: Edmund Clark: War of Terror.

Depicting the measures taken by states to protect their citizens, and how those methods of control affect the world. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm. org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000.

E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

Horniman Museum & Gardens

Museum dedicated to the work of the pioneering 19th-century British nurse and health reformer, known as ‘The Lady with the Lamp’. Daily 10am-5pm.

Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale. co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 0374. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Collection based upon the adventuring Victorian tea trader, Frederick John Horniman, including a wonderful aquarium and huge gardens.

To 29 Oct: The Robot Zoo. Amazing animals are recreated in robot form to reveal their inner workings. Daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

The Foundling Museum

House of Illustration

Britain’s original home for abandoned children was founded in 1739 by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. Please check for exhibitions and events. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundling museum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake.

To 1 Oct: Quentin Blake: The Life of Birds. Showing Blake’s expressive drawings for the original book. Adult £7.50; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Florence Nightingale Museum

Geffrye Museum Eighteenth-century almshouses with rooms recreating English interiors from 1600 to today.

To 4 Jun: Teenage Bedrooms: ‘Like a House Inside of a House’. See inside the homes of 26 London teenagers and explore the significance of these contemporary rooms. Restored Almshouse Tours (check for dates). Tue-Sun & bank hols 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.geffrye-museum.org.uk.

136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 020-7739 9893.

Off map. Station: Hoxton.

Household Cavalry Museum Original 18th-century stables where troopers work with their horses. It’s now a living museum that goes behind the scenes of ceremonial duties and roles of the Household Cavalry Regiments.

Changing the Queen’s Life Guard daily on Horse Guards Parade at 11am, Sun 10am, plus inspection at 4pm. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070.

E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Top Pick

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a lifelike representation of the Jewish East End. To 24 Sep: Amy Winehouse: A Family Portrait.

Discover the woman behind the music. Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a now museum of his life and work.

Permanent collections include paintings, drawings and sculptures. Don’t miss the stunning two-storey Arab Hall adorned with mosaic tiles. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9; concessions £7; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park, W14 8LZ. T: 0207602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the renowned film series. It is the largest display of its kind ever staged in London. It also features the Cars of Spectre, the first UK exhibition of items from the film. Mon-Fri & Sun 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm.

Adult £15; child £10. www.londonfilmmuseum.com.

45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

London Transport Museum Explore London’s transport system, with highlights including iconic red buses, the world’s first Underground steam train and the padded cell – a train carriage dating back to the 1890s. Permanent gallery London by Design reveals how London has become a world leader in transport design. To 3 Sep: Sounds of the City. The best 100 entries from the Prize for Illustration 2017, looking at the sounds in otherwise quiet spaces in UK cities. Mon-Thur & Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Fri 11am6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk.

Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Art for all As seasonal as sunshine and strawberries, if it’s summer in London, it must mean the Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy of Arts (from 13 Jun; p. 43). This is back for an astounding 249th year since its founding in 1769 – not only is it the world’s longest-running open-submission art exhibition, but it’s also the largest. Get ready to feast your eyes on an astounding array of 12,000 contemporary works filling the Royal Academy’s walls, with everything for sale. Its genres are varied, including paintings, sculptures and photography sitting side-by-side with printmaking, architecture and film, from emerging artists to some of the biggest names in contemporary art.

40 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

Museum giving a fascinating insight into how everyday lives have changed over the past 200 years through the evolution of consumer brands.

Exhibits include toys, magazines, newspapers, technology, travel, fashion and design. The ‘Time Tunnel’ transports visitors through wars and coronations, the coming of cinema, radio and television and the dramatic rise of branding.

To 25 Jun: Women in Advertising.

Talks, events and a specially commissioned film about gender roles in advertising. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child £5. www.museumofbrands.com. 111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611. Off map.

Station: Ladbroke Grove.

SUMMER EXHIBITION © DAVID PARRY

Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Museum of London

Science Museum

The world’s largest urban history museum, with the Galleries of Modern London telling the story of the capital from 1666 to present day.

To 25 Jun: Revealing the Past.

A display of local archaeological artefacts, as seen by the museum’s conservation team. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk.

150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844.

D10. Station: Barbican.

A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medical achievements, plus an IMAX 3D cinema. Permanent galleries include Information Age, with rare exhibits including the BBC’s first radio transmitter 2LO. The display Wounded: Conflict, Casualties and Care commemorates the centenary of the Battle of the Somme, and the huge medical and human impact of wounding during and beyond World War I. Mathematics: The Winton Gallery. Exciting gallery devoted to the colourful world of maths. The Garden is a fun interactive area for young children.

To 25 Jun: Voyages. Photographers Anderson & Low turn their camera on the museum’s

Museum of London Docklands The intriguing history of the meandering River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands. Displays including London, Sugar & Slavery, charting the history of the transatlantic slave trade and its links to the city. The Many East Ends gallery explores the culture and history of the area through the eyes of its many inhabitants. To 3 Sep: Tunnel: The Archaeology of Crossrail. The range of archaeological objects unearthed by Crossrail, Europe’s largest infrastructure project. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ docklands. No 1 Warehouse, West India Quay, E14 4AL. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay.

collection of maritime models. To 3 Sep: Robots.

Explore the 500-year-old story of humanoid robots and the quest to understand what it means to be human. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.science museum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0870870 4868. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Sherlock Holmes Museum This famous address is dedicated to the famous fictional detective and kept exactly as described in the author Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s thrilling stories, written between 1881 and 1904. Daily 9.30am-6pm.

Adult £15; child £10. www.sherlock-holmes.co.uk.

221b Baker St, NW1 6XE. T: 020-7224 3688. A3.

Station: Baker Street.

National Maritime Museum The world’s largest maritime museum, spread over several sites, was originally part of a 19th-century school for seafarers’ children. Includes a vast collection of maps, artwork and memorabilia including the Maritime Galleries, plus The Great Map, a huge interactive world map revealing stories from maritime history. The £35m Sammy Ofer Wing holds special exhibitions. Check for regular family fun days. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Natural History Museum Vast museum housing an astounding selection of family-friendly collections, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery to dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 10 Sep: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. Annual exhibition illustrating the abundance and vulnerability of life on our planet. To 17 Sep: Sensational Butterflies.

Escape into the tropical butterfly house in the museum grounds and get up close to these incredible creatures. Daily 10am-5.50pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Queen’s House This 17th-century house, an architectural masterpiece by Inigo Jones, boasts 22 lavish rooms displaying a stunning fine art collection, including works by Great Masters such as Gainsborough and Hogarth. Daily 10am-5pm; closed bank hols.

Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house.

Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force, through its people and collections, with more than 100 outstanding aircraft on show, plus photographs and films. Daily 10am-6pm.

Admission free. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map.

Station: Colindale. www.wheretraveler.com 41

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Victoria and Albert Museum

The architect Soane left his glorious former home, a Regency townhouse, to the nation in 1837 as a public museum. It now houses his personal collection of his own architectural drawings, Hogarth cartoons and antiquities. Museum tours daily; times vary. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm. Closed bank hols. Candlelight opening 6 Jun, 6pm-9pm. Admission free. www.soane.org.

13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107.

D8. Station: Holborn.

This outstanding collection of fine and applied arts spanning 3,000 years includes paintings, photographs and illustrations from around the world. To 1 Oct: Pink Floyd: Their Mortal Remains.

Spectacular audio-visual journey through the music of the rock band. To 18 Feb 2018: Balenciago: Shaping Fashion. Exhibition about the revered designer Cristóbal Balenciaga and his unique vision of female beauty plus use of textiles. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

Somerset House This Thameside neo-classical 18th-century building houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, Embankment Galleries, cafés and fountains.

To 11 Jun: Mat Collishaw: Thresholds.

A display of a virtual-reality artwork, which recreates an 1839 photography exhibition.

From 21 Jun: Perfume. Major exhibition that journeys through iconic and contemporary scents, through 10 perfumes and their creators, and the development of the industry (p. 38). Galleries daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Temple.

Twinings Museum The home of Twinings since 1706, where visitors can get a taste of its 300-year-old history at the company’s tiny in-store museum, with tea-tasting sessions. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus old photos of the Twining family. Mon-Fri 9.30am7.30pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm.

Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

V&A Museum of Childhood Charming museum with a national collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century.

To 21 Jan 2018: Searching for Ghosts. A glimpse into the lives and experiences of east Londoners.

From 10 Jun: Seen but Not Heard. Fascinating photographic portraits looking at the transition from primary to secondary school. Daily 10am5.45pm. Admission free. www.vam.ac.uk/moc.

Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200.

Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

The Wallace Collection The former Wallace family home displays a beautiful collection of Rococo art and furnishings. Paintings include Frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. Daily 10am5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org.

Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue, housing more than 1,500 fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body including historic medical implements. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours At the venue of the famous sporting championships, the museum showcases original trophies, art and tennis kits from current and past champions.

Behind-the-scenes tours reveal the secrets of the tournament. To 1 Sep: On Air: Wimbledon and the BBC 1927-2017. A fascinating exhibition to celebrate 90 years of BBC coverage of the Championships, with vintage equipment, posters and programmes. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Museum adult £13; child £8. Museum & Tour adult £24; child £15. One free child to every full-price adult. www.wimbledon.com/museum.

All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

Biblical scenes Few genres of art conjure up such a feeling of awe as Renaissance paintings, especially those evoking biblical scenes in gilded, Byzantine style. An acquisition at The National Gallery does just that at Giovanni da Rimini – An Early 14th-century Masterpiece Unveiled (from 14 Jun). Taking centre stage in the exhibition is Scenes from the Lives of the Virgin and Other Saints. It depicts four iconic scenes that are key to late- Medieval Christian worship, including Saint John the Baptist in the wilderness, and the Coronation of the Virgin. Giovanni da Rimini’s masterpiece is reunited with a panel depicting ‘Scenes from the life of Christ’, plus works by other 14th-century artists from Rimini. While you’re visiting The National Gallery, check out Gallery B, its first new gallery in more than 25 years.

42 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

GALLERIES Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with two exhibition spaces: the Barbican Art Gallery and The Curve.

To 25 Jun: The Japanese House: Architecture and Life after 1945. Focusing on Japanese domestic architecture. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. Gallery Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur-Fri 10am-9pm. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10.

Station: Barbican.

The Courtauld Gallery Important European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in Somerset House.

To 24 Sep: Bloomsbury Art & Design. A wide-ranging selection of early 20th-century creative pieces by the famous Bloomsbury Group. Daily 10am-6pm.

Adult £7; child free. www.courtauld.ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8.

Station: Embankment.

Dulwich Picture Gallery England’s first public art gallery, founded in 1811, holds one of the finest collections of Old Masters.

From 21 Jun: Sargent: The Watercolours.

Beautiful scenes of Europe by John Singer Sargent, in contrast to his usual portraits as an established painter of high society. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 11am-5pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child free; charges for special exhibitions. www.dulwichpicture gallery.org.uk. Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5354. Off map. Station: West Dulwich/North Dulwich.

Estorick Collection Charming gallery specialising in modern Italian art.

To 25 Jun: Giacomo Balla: Designing the Future. A career-spanning retrospective of one of Italian Futurism’s most important artists.

Wed-Sat 11am-6pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.estorickcollection.com.

39a Canonbury Square, N1 2AN. T: 020-7704 9522.

Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

Guildhall Art Gallery Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including historic events and royalty.

Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityof london.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s.

The National Gallery One of the world’s great galleries, with works by great masters from Monet to Leonardo da Vinci.

From 14 Jun: Giovanni da Rimini – An Early 14th-century Masterpiece Unveiled. Awe-inspiring Renaissance paintings. To 28 Aug: Chris Ofilli: Weaving Magic. Handwoven tapestries by the Turner Prizewinner. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery One of the nation’s prominent galleries, depicting British people in paintings, drawings and photos, from royalty to famous faces from popular culture.

To 18 Jun: Howard Hodgkin: Absent Friends. Powerful exhibition of portraits by the one of Britain’s leading artists, who died in March.

From 22 Jun: BP Portrait Award. The finalists of this prestigious competition. Sat-Wed 10am6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular Fri eve events).

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

GIOVANNI DA RIMINI’S SCENES FROM THE LIVES OF THE VIRGIN AND OTHER SAINTS © THE NATIONAL GALLERY

Sir John Soane’s Museum

The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography.

To 11 Jun: Deutsche Börse. Images from the photography competition. Mon-Sat 10am6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £4. www.the photographers gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 0207087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Queen’s Gallery More than 500 years of treasures from the Royal Collection displayed at Buckingham Palace.

To 12 Nov: Canaletto & the Art of Venice. Paintings depicting 18th-century Venice, with Canaletto’s greatest works. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £10.30; child £5.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk.

Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301.

F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.

Royal Academy of Arts Eighteenth-century apartments with RA Collection works in all media, including architecture.

To 25 Jun: Anthony Green RA. The Life and Death of Miss Dupont. Exhibition of paintings includes a life-size figure of his mother.

From 13 Jun: Summer Exhibition. Impressive annual show (p. 40). Daily 10am-6pm; Fri 10am10pm; check for regular special events. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.royal academy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Green Park.

Saatchi Gallery

Visit London and see the world!

Discover the treasures of world cultures, from Egyptian mummies and ancient Greek sculpture to African art and Chinese porcelain.

The Museum’s audio guide helps you make the most of your visit. Find out more about the Museum’s most popular objects or take a themed tour – it’s up to you. The audio guide is available in 10 languages. britishmuseum.org Sponsored by

Groundbreaking contemporary art in a renovated Georgian building. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchigallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Serpentine Gallery A respected arts space in Kensington Gardens displaying modern and contemporary work.

From 8 Jun: Grayson Perry. New works by the British artist, with themes including gender (p. 36).

From 8 Jun: Serpentine Pavilion. Diébédo Francis Kéré’s structure (p. 36). Tue-Sun 10am-6pm.

Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org.

Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075.

E4. Station: South Kensington.

Serpentine Sackler Gallery This arts space was designed by Dame Zaha Hadid.

From 8 Jun: Arthur Jafa. Showcasing the US cinematographer’s works (p. 36). Tue-Sun 10am6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegallery.org.

West Carriage Drive, Kensington Gardens, W2 2AR. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art from 1500 until today, including the world’s largest collection of works by Turner. To 1 Oct: Queer British Art 1861-1967. Marking the 50th anniversary of the decriminalisation of male homosexuality. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern Huge world-class permanent collection of international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station, plus installations in The Tanks.

From 13 Jun: Fahrelnissa Zeid. Kaleidoscopic paintings by the Turkish avant-garde artist. SunThur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Check for free tours. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark. www.wheretraveler.com 43

ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

A hellraiser It’s been 40 years but the time has come to celebrate Jim Steinman’s Bat out of Hell: The Musical at the London Coliseum (from 5 Jun; p. 46). Inspired by rocker Meat Loaf’s 1977 album of the same name, with Jim Steinman’s music and lyrics, the show roars on to the stage – literally – on motorbikes.

Expect the title track and all your favourite hits including I Would Do Anything for Love (But I Won’t Do That) and Two out of Three Ain’t Bad – plus two new songs, What Part of My Body Hurts the Most and Not Allowed to Love.

Fans may wonder why it took so long.

Director Jay Scheib says: ‘I was born as this work was taking shape so I’d love to say it was because I needed to grow up. But the answer is – the time is now. And the time is right. We have assembled so many geniuses: producers, inventors, designers, performers; we are a red-hot confluence of talents massed around the greatest rock’n’roll vision of all time.’

Previously at Manchester Opera House, Bat out of Hell: The Musical is set in the post-apocalyptic 44 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

island of Obsidian – a futuristic version of Manhattan after a cataclysmic event cast it adrift.

Newcomer Andrew Polec plays Strat, the leader of Lost, an army of forever-young rebels who struggle for power against the tyrannical ruler Falco (Rob Fowler). Polec says: ‘The storyline mixes Peter Pan with Romeo and Juliet. Strat falls for Falco’s daughter, Raven (Christina Bennington), and a wild adventure soon ensues.’

The musical features the same choreographer who Justin Bieber worked with on his Purpose world tour, the Rolling Stones’s

lighting designer and the same designer as the London 2012 Paralympics Opening Ceremony. Expect video projections as per Scheib’s usual style. Polec adds: ‘Projections immerse the audience in the world of Obsidian, as they see the actors and stage from one angle while another angle is projected in the background.

‘We start with a bang and never let our foot off the gas until we finish.

My favourite scene focuses on a disastrous birthday party which segues into Paradise by the Dashboard Light; a car magically appears out of thin air. What proceeds is a beautifully choreographed courtship that I can’t take my eyes off whenever I watch it backstage. The end blows your face off.

Well, depending on where you’re sitting!’

BAT OUT OF HELL PHOTOS © SPECULAR

A new musical celebrating the rock legend Meat Loaf is set to be one hell of a show, says Sarah Riches

EVENING STANDARD

‘YOU’RE GONNA LOVE IT’ MAIL ON SUNDAY

OLIVIER AWARDS WINNER 2017

TOM EYEN MUSIC BY HENRY KRIEGER ORIGINAL BROADWAY PRODUCTION DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL BENNETT DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY CASEY NICHOLAW BOOK AND LYRICS BY

DAY SEATS AVAILABLE £20 DAY SEATS AVAILABLE FROM 10AM AT THE BOX OFFICE

SAVOY THEATRE | Strand, London, WC2R 0ET | DreamgirlsWestEnd.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

Aladdin This hit show has a stellar cast, tunes such as A Whole New World – plus a magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £49.75-£101.75. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Alice’s Adventures Underground To 23 Sep: Based on Lewis Carroll’s classic book, this immersive show has everything from colourchanging cocktails to acrobats. Please check for times, and special child-friendly shows. Tickets £39-£71.50. www.alice-underground.com. The Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN. F8. Station: Waterloo.

An American in Paris Based on Gershwin’s 1951 film, this musical is about a World War II veteran falls for a woman in a bar in 1940s Paris. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.anamerican inparisthemusical.co.uk. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Annie Miranda Hart (below) plays an orphanage’s mean manager. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm (5 Jun 7pm); Thur & Sun 3pm. Tickets £20-£110. www.piccadilly theatre.org. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Bat out of Hell From 5 Jun: Songs from Meat Loaf’s iconic

album are turned into a musical (p. 44). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm (not 8 Jun); 20 Jun 7pm.

Tickets: £65-£250. www.batoutofhellmusical.com.

33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Beautiful – The Carole King Musical

The Girls

Musical about the early life and career of the award-winning singer-songwriter. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£72.50. www.beautifulmusical.co.uk. Aldwych Theatre, 49 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. E8.

Station: Covent Garden/Holborn/Charing Cross.

A Women’s Institute group poses nude for charity in this show based on the film Calendar Girls, with music by Gary Barlow. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £29-£69. www.phoenixtheatre london.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Book of Mormon This controversial and hilarious satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £34.75-£202.25. www.book ofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

The Braille Legacy World premiere of the true story of Louis Braille, a blind boy in 19th-century Paris who was inspired to invent the Braille alphabet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed 2.30pm; Sat 3pm. Tickets £17.50-£39.50. Charing Cross Theatre, The Arches, Villiers St, WC2N 6NL. T: 0844-493 0650. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Dreamgirls Glee TV star Amber Riley plays Effie White in this musical about the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£145. www.savoy theatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

42nd Street An authoritarian director stages a musical extravaganza during the Great Depression when Peggy, a small-town girl with big dreams, has a shot at stardom. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £25-£125. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk.

Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Cold hart The stand-up comedian and actress Miranda Hart is making her West End theatre debut in Annie at the Piccadilly Theatre.

Hart, the star of TV’s Miranda and Call the Midwife, plays Miss Hannigan, the cold-hearted manager of the orphanage in which Annie lives. Set in 1930s New York during the Great Depression, it follows little Annie, who can’t believe her luck when billionaire Oliver Warbucks picks her to spend Christmas at his home. But will Miss Hannigan ruin everything? The 1977 Broadway musical won seven Tony Awards, and was turned into a hit film in 1982, starring the curly redhead Aileen Quinn. It features classic tunes such as It’s a Hard Knock Life, Tomorrow and Easy Street.

46 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

Half a Sixpence Arthur Kipps is an orphan and draper’s assistant who unexpectedly inherits a fortune. Mon-Tue & Thur-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.halfasixpence.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Kinky Boots A shoe factory reinvigorates its business after its new owner produces boots for drag queens. Music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £39.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical. co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

La Strada A desperate mother sells her daughter to a sideshow strongman. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £20-£39.50. www.theotherpalace.co.uk.

The Other Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 0844264 2140. F6. Station: St James’s Park.

Les Misérables Adapted from Victor Hugo’s novel, this is set in postrevolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £28.75-£143.75. www.lesmis.com.

Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square.

Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry.

Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £47.70-£142.50. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, this feel-good story is set on a Greek island. MonSat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£72.50. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Matilda the Musical Based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (& 1 Jun 2.30pm); Sun 3pm.

Tickets £20-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com.

Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Motown the Musical Feel-good juke-box musical based on the story of Motown Records. Check for times and prices. www.motownthemusical.co.uk. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

On the Town With a Bernstein score, this classic dance musical is set in New York, where three sailors want some fun on their shore leave. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 2.15pm. Tickets £25-£65. www.openairtheatre. com. Open Air Theatre, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6. Station: Regents Park.

ANNIE IMAGE © MATT CROCKETT

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES

ENTERTAINMENT The Phantom of the Opera

Thriller Live

Don Juan in Soho

Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. MonSat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £23-£125. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 4pm & 8pm; Sun 3.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £42-£88.00. www.thrillerlive.com.

Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

To 10 Jun: Bawdy play based on Molière’s tragicomedy, starring David Tennant as the debauched protagonist. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £44.75-£125. www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

The Quentin Dentin Show From 20 Jun: Rock musical where Keith and

Nat accidentally summon a supernatural therapist from their radio, with hilarious results. Please check for times. Tickets £16-£18. www.tristanbatestheatre. co.uk. Tristan Bates Theatre, 1a Tower St, WC2H 9NP. T: 020-3841 6611. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s stage show about a rock musician who poses as a teacher. Mon, Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£99.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com.

New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Stepping Out To 17 Jun: This follows a group

of dancers entering a gala. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£102. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8.

Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.

Stomp An award-winning fusion of theatre, dance, comedy and rhythmic percussion. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; occasional Weds.

Tickets £26-£57.50. www.stomplondon.co.uk.

Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Wicked The brilliant back story of the witches of Oz with the hit tune Defying Gravity. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £21.75-£125. www.wickedthemusical. co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

The Wind in the Willows From 16 Jun: The children’s novel is brought to life in this stage show (below). Mon 7pm; Tue-Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £15-£125. www.windinthewillowsthemusical.com. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704.

D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

PLAYS The Comedy about a Bank Robbery Six incompetent crooks are desperate to get hold of a diamond. Please check for times. Tickets £21.25£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com.

The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Common During the Industrial Revolution, dishonest Mary (Anne-Marie Duff) tries to win back her old home.

Check for times. Tickets £15-£50. www.national theatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Goat, or Who is Sylvia?

To 24 Jun: In Edward Albee’s darkly comic play, architect Martin (Damian Lewis) admits that he has fallen in love with a goat. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£99. www.trh. co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamlet From 9 Jun: Andrew Scott (Sherlock) stars as the Danish Prince in this drama produced by the acclaimed creative team behind 1984. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£90. www.atgtickets.com.

Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Island To 24 Jun: On Robben Island, two inmates prepare to perform Antigone in front of prisoners and guards. Please check for times.

Tickets £16-£20. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk.

Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Love in Idleness In the 1940s, idealistic Michael returns home to discover his widowed mother is having an affair with a cabinet minister. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2pm.

Tickets £25-£71.90. www.apollotheatrelondon.co.uk.

Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515.

D7. Station: Leicester Square.

An uplifting, funny story about six Catholic choir girls from Oban who are let loose in Edinburgh for a day. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£85. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Play That Goes Wrong

Top Pick

Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Please check for times. Tickets £22£67.50. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Queen Anne

A children’s classic The children’s novel The Wind in the Willows is being brought to life at the London Palladium (from 16 Jun). Julian Fellowes – creator of TV’s Downton Abbey – says: ‘This new adaptation has been such a joy to write. I’ve no doubt our actors are going to have the time of their lives taking these memorable characters on the journey from page to stage.’ Directed by Rachel Kavanaugh, the musical stars comedian Rufus Hound as Toad, a loveable rascal with a penchant for fast cars. After a crash, Toad ends up in prison before escaping and continuing his madcap adventures much to the chagrin of his pals Badger, Ratty and Mole.

48 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

From 30 Jun: Depicting the dramas when Princess Anne becomes Queen (p. 50). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£95. www.trh.co.uk. Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Resistible Rise of Arturo Ui To 17 Jun: In Chicago during the Great Depression, Arturo Ui (Lenny Henry) tries to make a name for himself, using plenty of bribery and corruption. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £10-£40. www.donmarwarehouse.com.

Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

THE WIND IN THE WILLOWS © MARC BRENNER/JAMIE HENDRY PRODUCTIONS

Our Ladies of Perpetual Succour

ENTERTAINMENT

Girl power

To 10 Jun: Set in a New York film studio, a young woman has an urgent story to tell.Please check for times. Tickets £10-£39.50. www.almeida.co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

Tristan and Yseult 13-24 Jun: Cornish King Mark is at war, but he

hasn’t counted on falling in love with his enemy’s sister. Please check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Twelfth Night Viola is separated from her twin brother in a shipwreck, and disguises herself as a boy to go into the service of the Duke Orsino, in Shakespeare’s comedy drama. Please check for times. Tickets £5£45. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Ugly Lies the Bone To 6 Jun: Follows a soldier scarred from Afghanistan. 5-6 Jun 7.30pm & 6 Jun 2.15pm.

Tickets £15-£45. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk.

Lyttelton Theatre, National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Woman in Black A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, where a lawyer visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm;

NELL GWYNN © TRISTRAM KENTON

Two influential women from the 1700s take centre stage in Helen Edmundson’s Queen Anne at Theatre Royal Haymarket (from 30 Jun; p. 48). Directed by Natalie Abrahami, the play blends politics and sexual tension with satirical song. Emma Cunniffe reprises the role of Anne after impressing critics in the role during the play’s 2015-2016 stint at the Swan Theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon. Set in 1702 as England is on the verge of war, Princess Anne becomes queen following the death of King William.

Grieving over a miscarriage, her vulnerability is exploited by advisers with their own political agenda, particularly Sarah Churchill – who may have been more than a childhood friend.

The Treatment

50 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

‘BELIEVE THE HYPE’ N E W YO R K POST

THE MUSICAL MatildaTheMusical.com

CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU

ENTERTAINMENT Sat 4pm. Tickets £19.50-£60. www.the womaninblack. com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Woyzeck To 24 Jun: In Berlin, during the Cold War, a soldier (John Boyega) and his lover are trying to build a better future. Check for times. Tickets £12-£60. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS British Summer Time From 30 Jun: Outdoor music festival in Hyde Park (p. 14). www.bst-hydepark.com. Parade Ground, W2 2UH. E5. Station: Marble Arch/Hyde Park Corner.

Greenwich+Docklands International Festival From 23 Jun: Performing arts outdoors (p. 17). www.festival.org. T: 020-8305 1818. Various locations.

Hampton Court Palace Festival 8-24 Jun: See music acts in a stunning setting (p. 16). www.hamptoncourtpalacefestival.com. Hampton Court Palace, East Molesey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Hampton Court.

Live at Chelsea

Meltdown Festival

Royal Opera House

9-18 Jun: Annual celebration of music and arts (p. 16). www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The Royal Opera’s home base. From 14 Jun: La Traviata (Verdi). To 22 Jun: Leslisie D’amour (Donizetti). From 26 Jun: Mitridate, re di Ponto (Mozart). Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mighty Hoopla 4 Jun: Outdoor festival in Victoria Park (p. 16). Tickets £23-£56. www.mightyhoopla.com. Victoria Park, Victoria Park Rd, E9 7BT. Off map. Station: Mile End.

DANCE

Pride in London

Royal Opera House

From 24 Jun: City-wide events to celebrate the LGBT+ community, culminating in a parade (8 Jul).

Free. www.prideinlondon.org. T: 0844-344 5428.

The Royal Ballet’s home base. 2-10 Jun: Symphonic Variations (The Royal Ballet). www.roh.org.uk.

Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8.

Station: Covent Garden.

Underbelly Festival A summer-long schedule of comedy, circus and cabaret in two tent-like arenas. www.underbelly festival.com. Belvedere Road Coach Park, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

West End Live 24-25 Jun: This free event (p. 8) sees performers from the city’s top shows take to the stage on Trafalgar Square. www.westendlive.co.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

OPERA

15-18 Jun: Fireworks and cannons, with musicians

London Coliseum

including Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra and Ludovico Einaudi (p. 17). www.liveatchelsea.com.

Royal Hospital Chelsea, Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4SR. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Home to English National Opera, with productions sung in English. To 10 Jun: Vixen (Janácek). Tickets £20-£40. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

52 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

Sadler’s Wells To 3 Jun: Akram Khan Company. 7-10 Jun: Scottish Ballet. 23-26 Jun: Elixir Festival. www.sadlers wells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Avenue, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Barbican 2 Jun: Thomas Adès Beethoven Symphony Cycle

with Britten Sinfonia (Beethoven’s Symphony Cycle). www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Cadogan Hall Classical events hall. 6 Jun: Gala Concert. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Royal Festival Hall 3 Jun: Grand Opera Gala (Philharmonia Orchestra

‘I DARE YOU NOT TO GET UP AND DANCE!’ SALLY BOAZMAN, BBC RADIO 2

& Philharmonia Chorus). 7.30pm. Tickets £16.50£52.50. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp. org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Wigmore Hall 2 Jun: Live on Mars – A Tribute to David Bowie.

9-10 Jun: London Gay Men’s Chorus. 15 Jun: The

Simon & Garfunkel Story. www.wigmore-hall.org.uk.

36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6.

Station: Bond Street.

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Cadogan Hall Please check for full programme, times and prices. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. F6. Station: Sloane Square.

Visit BeautifulinLondon.co.uk Call 0845 200 7981

The Jazz Café 2 Jun: Christina Milian. 11-12 Jun: Mark Anthony.

13 Jun: A Night of Amy. Please check for times and

prices. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The O2 Huge venue for live music. 1-2 Jun: Shawn Mendes.

6-12 Jun: Take That. 20 Jun-30 Jul: Céline Dion.

22 Jun: Ed Sheeran. 23-24 Jun: Jamiroquai. Please check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk.

The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club 12-17 Jun: Billy Cobham with the Guy Barker Big

Band. Tickets £50-£65. www.ronniescotts.co.uk.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Royal Albert Hall 3-4 Jun: The Piano Guys. 4-9 Jun: Phil Collins.

10-11 Jun: Nashville in Concert. 29 Jun: Gladys

Knight. Please check for times and prices. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 0207589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES The Borrowers From 16 Jun: Puppetry and original music in this play, based on the book. Suitable for ages five to 11. Tickets £10-£15. www.polkatheatre.com.

Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

The Man Who Knows it All To 5 Jun: Two performers and a musician go on a quest. Suitable for ages four to 10. Please check for times. Tickets £12-£18. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

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The changing face of Seven Dials As the first Fashion Feast takes place in Seven Dials, celebrating the neighbourhood’s bohemian spirit with pop-up stalls and gardens, there is now even more reason to visit, says Emma Levine When the influential MP Thomas Neale laid out the Seven Dials neighbourhood in the 1690s, it was cannily done with a series of star-shaped street patterns to maximise the amount of rental money he could get; as houses were charged per area of frontage, rather than interior.

He wanted a fashionable district to attract affluent residents, and created glorious street names such as Great Earl Street and Queen Street. He commissioned leading stonemason Edward Pierce to construct the Sundial Pillar, which was built as the centrepiece of the seven roads, radiating like spokes in a wheel. But in the years that followed, the area deteriorated and became a slum and a haven for mobs; even Pierce’s pillar was demolished in 1773.

More than two centuries later, Seven Dials has been declared a conservation area, and the Sundial Pillar was resurrected. Today it has an air of fashionable, streetwise bonhomie and a village-type ambience. Its street names have altered over the years – you’ll now see the 54 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

likes of Monmouth Street and Earlham Street – but the area has a buzzing vibe of independent shops, and is adorned with original architecture and Dickensian history.

Seven Dials comes alive even more with the first Fashion Feast (10 Jun; noon-5pm).

It’s a celebration of shopping and food, where the neighbourhood’s boho spirit is there to be sampled. The seven streets – traffic-free for just one day – are filled with pop-up events, entertainment and special offers at more than 100 shopping stalls, bars and restaurants.

Peruse haircare advice and beauty tips from skincare experts at Neal’s Yard Remedies, where you’ll find organic treatments and feel-good remedies. In fact, the cosy and quirky courtyard here has been home to alternative medicine – and even occultism since the 1600s, when occultists were attracted to the streets’ symbolic star layout.

Nearby Neal Street is transformed into a catwalk showcasing local brands, and Shorts Gardens is turned into a relaxing Zen garden, where Japanese tea specialist My Cup of Tea hands out free iced teas for everyone to enjoy.

Even the central Sundial monument gets in on the act, as it’s transformed into a delightful urban garden with deckchairs.

Top London steakhouse Hawksmoor gives out free gin and tonics, the marking of a true English summer event. Edward Pierce, and no doubt Thomas Neale, would have been delighted. www.sevendials.co.uk

SEVEN DIALS © TIM GRIFFITHS; STREET SCENE AND SCENE WITH DOG © SIMON HARVEY PHOTOGRAPHY LTD; PIZZA © KATY DAVIES

SHOPPING | THE GUIDE

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most shops are open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, Sun 11am-4pm, and some open late on Thur evening. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.

One of the world’s biggest toy shops with gadgets, soft toys and demonstrations.

Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Canary Wharf

Harrods

Bond Street

A first-class shopping destination located in a smart and impressive development in the Docklands. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf.

Carnaby Street Once the domain for 1960s mods and rockers, these days the Carnaby area appeals to the fashionable set, with sports-inspired stores and edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular centre for arts, crafts and special interest shops and stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Edwardian food and meat halls, men’s, women’s and children’s fashion departments and restaurants and bars. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

House of Fraser Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

John Lewis

This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade and the centre of the diamond industry. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.

Find designer fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Wed & Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com.

300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711.

D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Jermyn Street & St James’s

Marks & Spencer

Hatton Garden

Some of the oldest specialist menswear shops in London are found in this area, including hatters and shirtmakers. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

King’s Road Once famous for upmarket and alternative fashion, it still attracts a stylish crowd. Peter Jones is good for homeware and Duke of York Square has stylish shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.

Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has major department stores including Selfridges and John Lewis, plus popular high-street chains. D6/D7.

Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch/ Tottenham Court Road.

Regent Street Originally designed by John Nash, this prestigious area includes Apple, Liberty, Swarovski, the first British Ferrari shop and Burberry. D6/D7/E7.

Station: Oxford Circus/Piccadilly Circus.

Savile Row

WALLACE CHAN AT MASTERPIECE LONDON COURTESY OF MASTERPIECE LONDON

Hamleys

One of London’s most famous areas for tailoring is in upmarket Mayfair. Find bespoke tailors including Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies and Kilgour. E7. Station: Green Park.

Seven Dials In the heart of quirky Covent Garden are seven streets full of independent boutiques, heritage brands and vintage stores (p. 54). www.sevendials. co.uk. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

MAJOR STORES Fenwick Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Fortnum & Mason This British institution is famed for its food hall.

Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as many fashion collections (multiple locations around London). Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer.com.

458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954.

D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Liberty

LUXURY ARCADES Burlington Arcade Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, this Regency arcade contains specialist shops.

Each morning it opens with a gate ceremony. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Leadenhall Market A grand Victorian covered market in the heart of the city, bustling with boutiques. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Leadenhall Market, Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. T: 020-7621 0709. D11. Station: Monument.

MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS Bicester Village Find discount designer clothes at this haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicestervillage.com.

Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

Westfield London This mall has more than 300 shops, from high-street names to high-end fashion labels. www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300.

Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Westfield Stratford City

The epitome of heritage combined with cutting-edge design and the brand’s famous prints. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Massive mall with 270 shops. Includes a cinema and a casino. www.westfield.com/stratfordcity.

2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300.

Map inset. Station: Stratford.

Selfridges

FASHION

The finest products in beauty and fashion, including exclusive and limited-edition products.

The denim collection is one of the largest in the world. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Alexander McQueen An absolute must for fashion followers, this flagship boutique has the label’s signature skull scarves. www.alexandermcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park.

Masterful art Prestigious international arts and antiques fair Masterpiece London (29 Jun-5 Jul) is known for its ‘cross-collecting’ ethos.

Now in its eighth year, it attracts thousands of art lovers to the Royal Hospital Chelsea, this year with 150 galleries, including 26 new exhibitors, from England and also as far afield as Monte Carlo, Hong Kong and New York.

The pieces on show, and for sale, are vast and varied, with big names including Warhol, Picasso and Lichtenstein. www.masterpiecefair.com

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SHOPPING

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SHOPPING Wempe

UK flagship offering a full range of men’s and womenswear (multiple locations around London). www.bananarepublic.eu. 224 Regent St, W1B 3BR. T: 020-7758 3550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Grand, spacious setting for this luxury German family business, established in 1878. Large selection of jewellery and fine watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Home to wonderful jewellery, decorations, vases, ornaments and unusual items. You can pick up a dazzling souvenir here, and try out a glassblowing session, too. www.londonglassblowing.co.uk.

62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

KIDS’ STORES

Prestat

Burberry Find the full Burberry London and Prorsum collections featuring clothing for men, women, children and babies, including a winning mix of classic and funky raincoats, separates and accessories (multiple locations around London). www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB. T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hackett For those who hanker after the British gentlemanat-leisure look, this store is hard to beat. Find polos, sporting jackets and cords, suits and plenty of accessories (multiple locations around London). www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY. T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Juicy Couture Clothing, jewellery and accessories for women, including contemporary casualwear. www.juicy couture.com. 198 Regent St, W1B 5TP. T: 0207734 2413. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

River Island Stylish, affordable fashion for men, women and children. Look out for the Style Studio, a personal shopper lounge with sofas and a bar. www.riverisland.com. 473 Oxford St, W1C 3AU. T: 0344-334 0506. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Stella McCartney With feminine clothes and accessories, this boutique brings some chic to this Mayfair side street (multiple locations around London). www.stellamccartney.co.uk. 30 Bruton St, W1J 6QR. T: 020-7518 3100. E6. Station: Green Park.

Topshop London’s unrivalled affordable clothing store offers fashion-forward pieces. Find mini and vintage ranges, plus personal shopping (multiple locations around London). www.top shop.com. 36-38 Oxford Circus, W1W 8LG. T: 0844-848 7487. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Harry Winston The king of diamond jewellery for more than 80 years in London. Discover the beautifully designed gems loved by international royalty and Hollywood’s elite. www.harrywinston.com.

171 New Bond St, W1. T: 020-7907 8800. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

BRACELET COURTESY OF BUCKINGHAM PALACE SHOP

London Glassblowing

Banana Republic

Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Pandora Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Tiffany & Co. This world-renowned jeweller displays exquisite designer gems (multiple locations around London). www.tiffany.com. The Courtyard, Royal Exchange, EC3V 3LQ. T: 020-7409 2790. D10. Station: Bank.

The Disney Store The Oxford Street branch has received a sprinkle of magic and has high-tech interactive entertainment. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm (branches also in WC2 and W12). www.disneystore.co.uk. 350-352 Oxford St, W1C 1JH. T: 020-7491 9136. D6.

Station: Bond Street.

LEGO Store LEGO merchandise, including a huge replica of Big Ben made from bricks. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. www.lego. com/en-gb/stores. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

One of London’s oldest chocolate shops sells hot chocolate, truffles and more in this glorious arcade. Please check for times. www.prestat.co.uk.

14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS. T: 020-8961 8555.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Twinings

This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it has been trading from 1706 – and is full of a variety of teas and infusions. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting In 1837, Queen Victoria session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; granted Twinings its first Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm.

Royal Warrant – it was the www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, tea supplier of her WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. household Station: Temple.

M&M’s World Sweet treats, including London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Nickelodeon Store Products inspired by the TV channel’s shows.

Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

LEATHER & LUGGAGE

We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop where classic items are given a twist. Look out for illustrations of London icons and maps (p. 56). Mon-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.webuilt thiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7.

Station: Oxford Circus.

The Whisky Exchange Specialist retailer of fine whiskies and spirits, with more than 5,000 whiskies from around the world. www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Anya Hindmarch Luxurious leather goods ranging from wallets to sequinned evening bags (multiple locations). www.anyahindmarch.com. 118 New Bond St, W1S 1EW. T: 020-7493 1628. E7. Station: Bond Street.

Moynat The UK flagship of the Parisian luxury luggage and handbag brand. www.moynat.com. 112 Mount St, W1K 2TU. T: 020-7495 3885. E6. Station: Bond Street/Green Park.

Tumi Brand leaders in prestige luggage, business cases and accessories (multiple locations around London). www.tumi.com. 211 Regent St, W1B 4NF. T: 020-7493 4138. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop A wide range of royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royalcollectionshop.co.uk.

7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

John Bell & Croyden This wellbeing emporium is more than 200 years old and is the official pharmacy to the Queen.

Offers emergency prescriptions and vaccinations, as well as specialist doctors dealing with hair and feet. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Fit for a queen To mark the annual Summer Opening at Buckingham Palace (from 22 Jul), the Royal Collection Trust and luxury retailer Halcyon Days have launched a new 18-piece range, which is available at the Buckingham Palace Shop.

The collection features bracelets with delicate copper enamelling, which are inspired by design elements inside the palace, such as miniature florets (seen on the walls of the Green Drawing Room) and intricate swirled hearts (Grand Entrance). All the pieces have a ‘Buckingham Palace’ inscription on the inside. www.wheretraveler.com 57

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The leading department store contains men’s and women’s fashions, as well as its world-famous prints that you can find in the haberdashery department, on its scarves and adorning stationery.

Regent St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. www.libertylondon.com

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UGG Australia RE in Selfridges. The fashion brand Prada Hollister R E Rolex ET Coach ET Penhaligon’s GAP Leviev Uniqlo specialises in clothing for curvier Omega Saint Laurent WIGMORE STR Wolford Hunter Daks E E T a product shapes.

‘We’ve created Gucci La Perla Barbour that works on a girl who’s size 00 Whittard of Chelsea Marina Rinaldi The Highlands Dolce & Gabbana PICCADILLY Vertu and looks equally great in a size 24,’ Kiehl’s Alexander McQueen CIRCUS GREEN PARK Barbour Cartier Tod’s (100yards) says Kardashian. Selfridges also International Y L L I De Beers D A Mappin & Webb C PIC N R Imen Fortnum E T T A and stocks clothingH Efor P L A C children.

E Tumi & Mason Osprey London Hawes 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020Cath Kidston Bates Hatters & Curtis 7318 3987. www.selfridges.com Alfred EET Links of RLondon Dunhill J E R M Y N S T Emmett Jones Bootmaker Paxton & Whitfield T.M.Lewin Church’s Hackett Longmire Thomas Pink Visitors flock to this mock-Tudor building, BOND STREET

SHOPPING ADVER TORIAL

FALL IN LOVE , WITH LONDON S FINEST DIAMONDS Visit Hatton Garden and fall in love with London’s finest collection of jewellery and diamonds Nestled in the heart of Holborn and just a short taxi ride from London’s West End, you’ll find the historical area of Hatton Garden. Here you’ll discover one of London’s hidden gems; a place steeped in history and romance since Queen Elizabeth I gifted a house and garden in the grounds of Ely Palace to a handsome courtier in 1576.

By 1870, Hatton Garden had established an international reputation as London’s jewellery quarter and the UK’s centre for diamonds. As the trend for more extravagant and expensive items of jewellery grew, the demand for hand-made fine jewellery and exquisite diamonds increased.

The specialist jewellers in Hatton Garden became famous for trading diamonds, often shipping rare stones around the world as jewellery became a symbol of not only wealth

and stature, but of love and affection.

Today, the romance lives on and the Hatton Garden Jewellery Group is a collection of eight stores in Hatton Garden near Farringdon. Since the group’s flagship store Beverley Hills Jewellers opened in 1987, the family-owned brand has carved out a reputation for leading the local market in truly British jewellery design including bespoke diamond pieces, coloured gemstones and remodelling of existing jewellery.

So if you’re looking to purchase a token of your love and affection for someone special in your life then look to one of Hatton Garden Jewellery Group’s stores to find your desired piece!

For more information, please ask your Concierge for directions and visit any of our stores or call T: 020-7405 4847 and ask to speak to the group’s General Manager, Carolyn Jackson.

VISITORS OFFERED 30% DISCOUNT OFF RRP (excluding pre-owned and sale goods)

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The Bloomsbury Set – which included the writers Virginia Woolf and EM Forster – probably never expected they would inspire perfume. Yet Jo Malone has created The Bloomsbury Set collection with fragrances for men and women, from leather and artemisia to garden lilies.

150 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9BX. T: 0370-192 5121. www.jomalone.co.uk

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Red soles at the bottom of the shoes can only mean one thing: Christian Louboutin. The French designer’s shoes S DN have graced the feet of Kylie Minogue, L G WEL M O R C Kate Moss and Emma Watson. Live out your footwear fantasies at this shop, which also sells leather accessories.

23 Motcomb St, SW1X 8LB. T: 0843-227 4322. www.eu.christianlouboutin.com

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SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE UK

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TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT ) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping.

MEN’S CLOTHES (CHEST) 34 36 38 40 42 44

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CHILDREN’S CLOTHES 4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15 JB2423 London Where June RS 175x120.pdf

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Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

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Come and explore Hamleys Toy Shop!

With over 50,000 Toys across 7 floors!

188-196 Regent Street, London W1B 5BT www.hamleys.com/explore

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this image: Roast beef; After Eight arctic roll; the restaurant’s terrace

Raise the roof

Free as a bird As a new rooftop restaurant opens near Liverpool Street, Emma Levine tucks into Sunday lunch and takes in the views

62 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

flavoursome, but it’s the beetroot salad that steals the show: wafer-thin discs of perfect circles of pale pink heritage beetroot forming a base for tiny cubes of goat’s cheese, walnuts and truffles.

If you want to go down the traditional Sunday lunch route, try the beef, roasted in the coal oven, which comes with a wooden board presenting the sides: duck-fat roast potatoes, cauliflower cheese and Yorkshire puddings so vast and fluffy they look like out-of-control clouds.

There is also a large array of fish, pan-fried with a sauce of your choice. Drown your fried skate wing in the browned butter and caper sauce, and enjoy heritage new potatoes in seaweed butter. Cholesterol overkill? Totally.

Don’t let this stop you digging in to dessert.

There’s a divine chocolate ganache with passion fruit sorbet, an After Eight arctic roll and a sticky toffee pudding. At least you don’t have to fly home like the birds – or your belly really would weigh you down.

9th Floor, Montcalm Royal London House hotel, 22-25 Finsbury Square, EC2A 1DX. T: 020-3873 4000. www.aviarylondon.com

BŌKAN This new rooftop venue in Canary Wharf (above) not only has 360-degree views of the Thames, The O2 and The Shard, but also provides telescopes for you to take an even closer look at the city. Bar-restaurant Bōkan boasts a superior cocktail and bar food menu – try the charcuterie and cheese boards – with banquette seating on its plant-filled terrace, 39 floors up. Head chef Aurélie Altemaire offers sophisticated modern European dishes. Step outside and enjoy the summer!

40 Marsh Wall, Isle of Dogs, E14 9TP

SUSHISAMBA Look out in the next few weeks for a second London branch of the top-notch restaurant.

This one takes over Covent Garden’s famous Opera Terrace, with a balcony overlooking the cobbled piazza. Of course, if you need your fix of the superb Japanese-BrazilianPeruvian fusion in the meantime, there’s always the Heron Tower for your delectation.

Opera Building, Market Terrace, WC2

IMAGES COURTESY OF AVIARY; TERRACE COURTESY OF BÕKAN

Two huge peacocks adorn the top of the transparent stairwell in the rooftop restaurant at the new Montcalm Royal London House hotel. Hovering overhead is an enormous white birdcage, with myriad birds perched on the outside. All the creatures are stuffed and very lifelike – appropriate, of course, for a venue named Aviary.

From the inside, views in three directions take in City landmarks including the Gherkin (30 St Mary Axe) and the Walkie-Talkie (20 Fenchurch Street). But the real gem, especially in summer, is the restaurant’s large decked terrace with its pastel-coloured sofas. A white bell-tower on the adjacent building adds even more distinction to the urban surroundings.

Inside the light-filled restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows, the bar takes centre stage, with wood and brass fittings and an excellent choice of cocktails. The food menu combines homeliness and impeccable style.

You might say that Sunday lunch is ‘just’ a lunch, but once you look at the starters section you’ll see that Aviary is a cut above the rest. The white onion soup is hearty and

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch) D (dinner). Prices are per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to map coordinates (p. 80-81)

AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH) Avenue Contemporary dining with Manhattan-style décor. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat & Sun brunch; Sat D. www.avenue-restaurant.co.uk. 7-9 St James’s St, SW1A 1EE. T: 020-7321 2111. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaucho Great place for succulent Argentine steaks, with a wine bar, supper lounge and entertainment. ££££. Daily L & D (and branches). www.gaucho restaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR. T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with dry-aged US and British beef, plus dishes including lobster tail with garlic butter. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.good manrestaurants.com. 26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint, more than 40 years old, with plenty of rock memorabilia, funky décor and a fun atmosphere. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Heliot Steak House Hippodrome Casino’s restaurant, over the main gaming floor, serves British classics and USDA beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodromecasino.com.

Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

BRITISH (MODERN) Aqua Shard Contemporary cuisine prepared from local produce matches the fantastic views at this slick restaurant on The Shard’s 32nd floor. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Butlers Restaurant Enjoy top English cuisine in an elegant Mayfair restaurant, famed for its Dover sole. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

Caxton Grill Superb selection of steaks cooked in the Josper grill, plus seafood dishes such as lobster with Hollandaise at this stylish venue. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.

Cheneston’s

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal The superchef offers a menu influenced by historic British gastronomy. ££££. Daily L & D; booking essential. www.dinnerbyheston.com. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Fera at Claridge’s Enjoy creative British dishes from local, organic ingredients, served in a beautiful Art Deco restaurant. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges.co.uk/ fera. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the huge museum’s iconic Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

Holborn Dining Room

Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

This smart brasserie adjoining the stylish Rosewood hotel serves classic British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborndining room.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

City Social

Indigo

Jason Atherton’s award-winning restaurant and bar boasts a creative menu and stunning views. £££.

Mon-Fri L & D, Sat D. www.citysociallondon.com.

Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

This all-day restaurant serves British dishes that are entirely gluten and dairy-free. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych hotel, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000. E8.

Station: Covent Garden.

JW Steakhouse Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged prime beef with a variety of sides, starters and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk.

Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Lima Michelin-starred contemporary Peruvian cuisine. £££. Tue-Sun L; Daily D. www.limalondon.com.

31 Rathbone Place, W1T 1JH. T: 020-3002 2640.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Oblix Sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill with stunning views from the 32nd floor of The Shard. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com.

31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10.

Station: London Bridge.

COUS COUS IN A STEWING PAN COURTESY OF BOCCA DI LUPO

Planet Hollywood This huge London branch has burgers, pizzas and cocktails, plus movie memorabilia. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting with animatronic animals and a familyfriendly menu. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therain forestcafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

STK London Dine on British and American prime steaks, with DJs playing nightly. ££££. Daily D. www.stkhouse.com.

ME London Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Italian magic Although Bocca di Lupo is on a quiet Soho street, once inside you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped into an osteria in an Italian piazza. Book ahead as it’s packed – but you might get lucky and be seated at the counter. The restaurant has been championing Italian wine and cuisine since it opened in 2008. This year, certain months have been selected for ‘regional takeovers’, inspired by the cuisine of Italy’s 20 regions. This month, all eyes are on Sicily, so expect risotto with almonds, and paccheri (pasta tubes) with aubergine, swordfish and mint. Our tip? Choose small sharing plates so you can sample more flavours – although whichever dish you try, you won’t go wrong.

12 Archer St, W1D 7BB. www.boccadilupo.com. T: 020-7734 2223.

D7. Station: Piccadilly Circus www.wheretraveler.com 63

DINING Rabbit

Rules

Kai Mayfair

The meat-rich menu here features locally sourced ingredients. £££. Mon D; Tue-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.rabbit-restaurant.com. 172 King’s Rd, SW3 4UP. T: 020-3750 0172. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Long-established, plush restaurant with hearty dishes such as rump steak and rib of beef. ££££.

Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Covent Garden.

Superior Michelin-starred cuisine with dishes such as Kagoshima Wagyu beef. ££££. Daily L & D. www.kaimayfair.co.uk. 65 South Audley St, W1K 2QU. T: 020-7493 8988. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Rex Whistler Restaurant

Serpentine Bar & Kitchen

Royal China Club

Dine on dishes such as Gressingham duck breast in a dining room with a whimsical century-old mural. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Enjoy hearty dishes or a light lunch on a terrace overlooking the Serpentine lake. £. Daily B & L. www.benugo.com/restaurants/serpentine-barkitchen. Serpentine Rd, Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 020-7706 8114. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

This huge Cantonese restaurant is popular for its dim sum, served every lunchtime, plus crispy aromatic duck. ££. Daily L & D. www.royalchinagroup.co.uk.

24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches).

T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.

St Pancras Grand British brasserie-style dishes in an ornate dining room. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk.

Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar

BRITISH (TRADITIONAL)

CHINESE

Café in the Crypt

Bright Courtyard Club

This vaulted café serves homely English dishes. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org.

St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Excellent Cantonese and Shanghai dishes, including great dim sum. £££. Daily L & D. www.bright courtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Mews of Mayfair

Chai Wu

An 18th-century mews house with a brasserie, lounge and cocktail bar, plus a cobbled courtyard. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsofmayfair.com.

10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Located in Harrods, this chic restaurant serves dishes such as Wagyu beef, Alaskan king crab and Chilean sea bass. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

The Ritz Restaurant

Hakkasan

Enjoy classic British dishes in a pretty dining room, with top-notch food and service to match. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Stylish, Michelin-starred restaurant serving traditional and fusion dishes. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com.

8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch).

T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Try the roast beef, steaks and terrine boards. ££.

Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB (and Chelsea branch).

T: 020-7836 8836. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 1 Lombard Street Hearty, modern cooking in this brasserie, a former bank, with a huge glass dome. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

The Delaunay This Theatreland venue’s interior and menu are inspired by central Europe’s grand cafés. ££££.

Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred restaurant with great views. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvin atwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Ivy This fashionable restaurant is good for a pre- or post-theatre dinner. £££-££££. Daily L & D (last orders midnight). www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

OXO Tower Elegant restaurant on the Thames with stunning views. ££££. Daily L & D. www.oxotower.co.uk.

Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St, South Bank, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.

Skylon Glamorous dining with river views.

Try dishes such as spiced duck breast with heritage beetroot. ££££. Daily L & D. www.skylon-restaurant. co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7654 7800. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Ting Superb restaurant in The Shard’s Shangri-La serves dishes with an Asian twist. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.

FISH AND SEAFOOD

Raising the steaks If you’re serious about steak, visit this new outlet of Hawksmoor which has sprung up in foodies’ favourite Borough Market. It’s located in a huge 19th-century warehouse which used to store hops, so expect original wood panelling, ornate tiles and rustic brickwork.

The portions are generous; start with something light such as Salcombe crab on toast before enjoying a juicy charred steak. Take your pick from cuts, sauces and sides, though the famous triple-cooked chips are obligatory. In a nod to its market location, there is a Market Specials menu, which makes the most of the seasonal produce on its doorstep.

16 Winchester Walk, SE1 9AQ. T: 020-7234 9940. www.thehawksmoor.com.

E10. Station: London Bridge 64 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

Chic seafood restaurant with an oyster and Champagne bar. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey. co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Poppie’s Traditional fish and chip shop with vintage decor. £. Daily L & D. www.poppiesfishandchips.co.uk.

55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845.

D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sea Shell Enjoy hearty fish and chips, or pan-seared king scallops. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.seashell restaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.

HAWKSMOOR COURTESY OF HAWKSMOOR

J Sheekey

THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting.

Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: amaya@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food.

Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.

Saturday Brunch with live jazz music.

73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: chutneymary@realindianfood.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: veeraswamy@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 24

DINING

FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food from this three-Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Brasserie Joël This brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare and steaks. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; Daily D. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel Bustling, huge French brasserie with excellent-value prix-fixe menus. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Galvin Bistrot de Luxe

The Wells

This classic Parisian-style bistro has superb service and smart décor. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvinrestaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.

This bright and airy pub near Hampstead Heath serves seasonal British cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.thewellshampstead.co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

L’Escargot This elegant establishment, London’s oldest French restaurant, serves classic dishes. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.lescargot.co.uk. 48 Greek St, W1D 4EF. T: 020-7439 7474. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Sketch

Stylish gastro brasserie adorned with artwork by David Shrigley with creative French-European cuisine. ££££. Daily D. www.sketch.uk.com. 9 Conduit St, W1S 2XG. T: 020-7659 4500. E7.

London has more Station: Oxford Circus.

Michelin-starred restaurants than anywhere else in the world

Céleste Michelin-starred cuisine in an elegant dining room. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com.

The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Clos Maggiore Exquisite dining room with dishes such as roast Japanese Wagyu beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

GASTROPUBS

INDIAN Amaya The Michelin-starred cuisine here is full of exotic twists on Indian dishes, with an open grill kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6.

Station: Knightsbridge.

Baluchi at the Lalit London Majestic Indian restaurant in this five-star boutique hotel housed within a Grade II-listed Victorian building. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.the lalit.com. 181 Tooley St, SW1 2JR. T: 020-3765 0000. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Benares

The Grazing Goat

All-day dining in a bright dining room, with seasonal dishes such as braised venison fillet with port jus. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thegrazing goat.co.uk. 6 New Quebec St, W1H 7RQ. T: 0207724 7243. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates modern Indian cuisine in this refined restaurant. ££££.

Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com.

12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Thomas Cubitt

Chutney Mary

Classic dining room above a traditional bar, serving top-quality British produce. Try the beef sirloin Sunday roast. £££. Daily L & D. www.the thomascubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.

Expect a gourmet tour of seven different Indian regions in this glamorous restaurant. £££. MonFri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutneymary.com.

73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7.

Station: Green Park.

THE PERFECT CUT Caxton Grill takes choice steaks, juicy burgers and sustainably sourced fish and cooks them to perfection on their Josper Grill.

Quote “Where20” when booking to enjoy 20% off your total bill Expiry date October 2017 Caxton Grill

Victoria Station - 8 min

St. James’s Park - 1 min

Westminster - 8 min

Caxton Grill, 2 Caxton Street, London, SW1H 0QW www.caxtongrill.co.uk

66 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

DINING Gaylord Iconic Indian restaurant serving award-winning sheekh kebabs and Mughal dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Gymkhana This Michelin-starred venue, with a colonial style, focuses on tandoori and charcoal grills. £££. Daily L & D. www.gymkhanalondon.com. 42 Albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 020-3011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.

Khan’s of Kensington This relaxed restaurant serves a great range of North Indian vegetarian and fish dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansofkensington.co.uk.

3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114.

G4. Station: South Kensington.

SushiSamba

Quattro Passi

Enjoy a wonderful fusion of Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian cuisine at this stylish rooftop terrace. £££. Daily L & D. www.sushisamba.com. 38th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 020-3640 7330.

D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

This Michelin-starred venue is inspired by southern Italy’s Amalfi coast. Try the raw seafood bar. ££.

Mon-Sat L & D. www.quattropassi.co.uk. 34 Dover St, W1S 4NG. T: 020-3096 1444. E6. Station: Green Park.

Rossopomodoro Enjoy authentic Neapolitan food. £. Daily L & D. www.rossopomodoro.co.uk. 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX. T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

ITALIAN Cicchetti All-day dining venue with small plates of regional specialities to share, including antipasti and pasta. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk.

30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch).

T: 020-7494 9435. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Verdi Dine on fresh Italian classics or enjoy afternoon tea in this iconic music venue. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

La Porte des Indes Dine in a former Edwardian ballroom for a taste of colonial India, with French-Creole influences. £££. Daily L & D. www.laportedesindes.com.

32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055.

D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Little India

A REAL TASTE OF INDIA

This cosy establishment near the Royal Albert Hall specialises in dishes from Bengal, including fish bhuna. ££. Daily L & D. www.littleindialondon.com.

32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4.

Station: Gloucester Road.

Masala Zone In this chain of vibrant restaurants, enjoy great-value Indian street food, plus the flavourpacked grand thali. £. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Memories of India Try authentic flavours from North India, with specialities including spiced lamb. ££. Daily L & D. www.memoriesofindia.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Mint Leaf Contemporary Indian dishes are the trademark of this stylish restaurant. Try the grilled prawns with fenugreek. £££. Mon-Fri L; Daily D. www.mint leafgroup.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Tamarind Michelin-starred take on Mughal cuisine is served in a smart Mayfair dining room. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

Veeraswamy This opulent Michelin-starred restaurant has stylish cuisine. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

INTERNATIONAL Bbar Enjoy top-quality meat at this relaxed restaurant and bar, near Buckingham Palace. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Cavendish This elegant, timeless restaurant serves hearty mains such as rabbit ravioli and wild salmon with tapenade. ££-£££. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk.

T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA LA ZO N E .CO M

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DINING

JAPANESE & KOREAN Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table; try the Wagyu beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana. co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches).

T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Engawa This elegant Japanese restaurant has tasting menus, plus excellent Kobe beef in different cuts. £££.

Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Nobu Sashimi, sushi and tempura from acclaimed Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa. The venue has a Michelin star. ££££. Daily L & D. www.nobu restaurants.com. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 4747. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Roka Mayfair This stylish space with a centrepiece robata grill serves up contemporary Japanese cuisine. £££-££££. Daily L & D. www.rokarestaurant.com.

30 North Audley St, W1K 6ZF (and branches).

T: 020-7305 5644. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH Elysee This family-run restaurant, opened in 1936, serves delicious Greek dishes, from souvlaki to lamb cutlets. It also has a roof terrace and late licence. £££. Mon-Sat D. www.elyseerestaurant.com. 13 Percy St, W1T 1DP. T: 020-7636 4804. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Momo Candlelit restaurant with Moroccan décor, serving mezze, couscous and tagine dishes. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Nopi

£££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen

Middle Eastern-inspired food from Yotam Ottolenghi with dishes to share in an informal space. ££-£££.

Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com.

21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Pan-Asian cuisine in the department store Debenhams; see the chefs at work in an open-plan dining space. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen. co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Yasmeen

Mango Tree

Authentic Lebanese cuisine with excellent mezze, charcoal-grilled meat and vegetarian dishes, with outdoor seating. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeen restaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

RIVERSIDE Bateaux London See London’s sights on a river cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. www.bateauxlondon.com.

Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800.

E8. Station: Embankment.

The London Showboat Drift down the River Thames while enjoying a four-course dinner. Nightly from £80 per person; booking essential. Departs Westminster Pier 7.45pm. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

RS Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the Thames serving British dishes such as braised pork belly.

Elegant fine dining near Buckingham Palace, with cuisine from all regions of Thailand, such as sea bass wrapped in banana leaf. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Thai Pot This informal spot offers a huge range of good-value Thai dishes, such as salads and curries. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SPANISH El Pirata This buzzing Mayfair bar-restaurant serves authentic hot and cold tapas, including grilled king prawns and chorizo. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Iberica Victoria Traditional dishes are given a modern twist. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com.

5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Moro North Africa meets Spain in this Moorish restaurant, serving seasonal dishes such as charcoal-grilled lamb with rhubarb. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

VEGETARIAN The Gate The latest branch of the veggie restaurant has tasty dishes such as butternut rotolo and grilled haloumi in Indian spices. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.the gaterestaurants.com. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL. T: 020-7724 6656. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Mildreds This comfortable, informal Soho institution has hearty meat-free dishes, such as wild mushroom and ale pie. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk.

45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN. T: 020-7494 1634. D7.

Station: Oxford Circus.

The opulent décor of 24-carat gold high ceilings, crystal chandeliers and marble columns set the tone for Savini at Criterion. This is the only surviving room of the neo-Byzantinestyle Criterion Hotel, built in 1873 in the heart of Piccadilly Circus. This restaurant is the second branch of the iconic Milan venue of the same name, with excellent dishes made predominantly with ingredients flown in from Italy. Try its signature veal ossobuco, and risotto with porcini. This is the place to visit for a touch of la dolce vita in London.

224 Piccadilly, W1J 9HP. T: 020-7930 1459. www.saviniatcriterion.co.uk. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus 68 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

Tibits Help yourself at the buffet counter to crunchy salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings and pay by plate weight. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk.

12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Tasty cuisine from all over India. Enjoy dishes such as Mysore dosas, hearty thalis and cashew pakoras. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk.

77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches).

T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

SAVINI COURTESY OF CRITERION

Milanese magic

118mm x124mm

Authenticity with flair

Time for tea

There is nothing quite typical about good Indian food.

The quality and variety that we serve at the Gaylord Restaurant on Mortimer Street (near Westend and Oxford Street) is enough to draw foodies of all nationalities from miles away. Add to that, the innovative and contemporary food presentation makes a dining experience here stand apart.

The restaurant has been a British Curry Award finalist and has been serving authentic Indian food since 1966!

For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist

ROSE LOUNGE It’s a French flavour at The Balcon, yet its afternoon tea is a delectable East-West blend of Parisienne pastries and specialist Asian teas (above). Uniquely, its menu waxes lyrical about China Green Tea Gunpowder, its Indianspiced Anichai and earthy Pu-erh Menghaï.

Enjoy the French touch of amuse-bouche, finger sandwiches and savouries, and scones with clotted cream and rose-scented strawberry jam all in a sumptuous lounge.

Sofitel London St James, 8 Pall Mall, SW1 5NG. T: 020-7747 2238. www.thebalconlondon.com

79-81 Mortimer Street London W1W 7SJ 020 7580 3615 www.gaylordlondon.com

SOSHARU When Jason Atherton opens a new venue it’s usually something to shout about. This time at Sosharu, his Japanese izakaya-style restaurant, the pioneering chef turns the English concept of afternoon tea on its head.

Enjoy tempura fried seaweed shell filled with salmon, and sweet taiyaki – a traditional fish-shaped cake with a pancake-style batter filled with rhubarb and white chocolate.

There’s a vast selection of green tea blends, including kukicha with cherry blossom.

64 Turnmill St, EC1M 5RR. T: 020-3805 2304. www.sosharulondon.com

Located opposite Buckingham Palace Open daily for lunch, dinner and evening cocktails

ROSE LOUNGE © TONY HARRIS

TING Continuing an Asian theme this month, it’s over to level 35 of The Shard to restaurant Ting in the Shangri-La Hotel. Of course it offers the oh-so-English scones, but in this Asian-inspired restaurant, it’s fitting to try its Chinese afternoon tea, with vegetable fried dumplings, hau kau (steamed prawn dim sum) and lapsang souchong ganache. Accompany it with a glass of Bollinger, and say ‘Gambai!’ as you drink a toast to Ting’s stunning views.

31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. www.ting-shangri-la.com

Private Events for up to 300 guests Call 020 7958 7000 43 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0PP www.bbarlondon.com

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W H E R E

L O N D O N

P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING Little India One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a lady. Why not come and try our signature dish ‘Naga Chicken’ – cooked in spices and a naga chilli and tossed dry, as well as this we pride ourselves in traditional home style cooking. Come and enjoy a truly unique and memorable dining experience whilst indulging yourself in the real taste of fine Indian cuisine.

Open 7 days a week – Monday to Saturday, noon till 11.30pm and Sunday noon till 11pm. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended as Little India is really little! Perfectly located near The Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Kensington Palace and the Natural History Museum.

Cafe in the Courtyard St Martin-in-the-Fields

32 Gloucester Road, SW7 4RB T: 020-7584 3476/020 7589 9315 www.littleindialondon.com Station: Gloucester Road

Take a break from a busy day of sightseeing and enjoy some London sunshine at Café in the Courtyard. This seasonal outdoor café is located in the terrace just behind the church of St Martinin-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square. Open daily from 8am (11am on Saturdays and Sundays), Café in the Courtyard serves a delightful range of hot and cold drinks, pastries, snacks, baguettes, salads and soup throughout the day and in the evening there are scrumptious platters to share and a full wine list. Visit the website for special offers and opening hours.

Café in the Courtyard, St Martin-in-the-Fields, WC2N 4JJ Station: Charing Cross Email: café@smitf.org www.smitf.org

Khans of Kensington Visit Khans of Kensington for delicious, genuine Indian cuisine which a core of devotees have been enjoying for many years.

The restaurant prides itself on its modern take on traditional North Indian cuisine, with mouthwatering dishes such as its famous fish koliwada and lamb chop in honey sauce. The expansive menu covers many dishes, but if you don’t see your personal favourite on the menu, just ask the team of expert chefs and they will be more than happy to set that right. The restaurant is just a minute’s walk from South Kensington tube station.

Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm.

Memories of India At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have a private room for parties and corporate functions.

Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm; Sun noon-11pm.

18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734. www.memoriesofindia.com.

Station: Gloucester Road.

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3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. www.khansofkensington.co.uk.

Station: South Kensington

W H ER E

L O N D O N

P R O M O T I O N

BEST OF LONDON DINING Chi Kitchen Contemporary pan-Asian restaurant Chi Kitchen opened last year on the ground floor of Debenhams on Oxford Street. The word ‘chi’, in Chinese, means energy, and the restaurant strives to offer good energy, as well as great food, to hungry shoppers. The open-plan restaurant lets you watch the chefs prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. Chi Kitchen will take you on a unique culinary journey through south east Asia.

Mention Where London when you book to enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal at Chi Kitchen.

Mon-Sat 7.30am-11pm (last orders 10.15pm), Sun 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9.15pm).

El Pirata

Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk.

Station: Oxford Circus

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. Informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ).

Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk.

Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Chai Wu Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the Fifth Floor of the iconic department store, Harrods, in Knightsbridge.

The restaurant design incorporates the five elements of Chinese philosophy: wood, metal, water, earth and fire, creating an elegant, opulent and welcoming dining setting.

The tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as black truffle sour soup and Chilean sea bass dumpling with gold leaf, as well as luxurious dishes including Beijing duck and Wagyu steak.

Mon-Sat 12noon-9pm (last orders 8.30pm); Sun 12noon-6pm (last orders 5.15pm).

Mango Tree

Fifth Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish setting.

It uses only the finest ingredients sourced from the best suppliers.

Enjoy genuine Thai dishes from the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north; spicy food from the east; mild, Chinese-style dishes from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south.

Mention Where London when booking, and enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne with any main meal at Mango Tree Belgravia.

Monday-Wednesday 12noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat 12noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun 12noon-10.30pm.

46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. Station:Victoria/Hyde Park Corner.

Also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk.

Twitter @MangoTreeLondon. Email: info@mangotree.org.uk

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NIGHTLIFE | THE GUIDE This image: Holborn Dining Room’s Gin Bar Below: a cocktail at The Distillery

Live music venues

Music to your ears For many of London’s older music fans, Borderline holds cosy memories as an iconic music club, a Soho establishment that since the late 1980s has seen the likes of R.E.M., The Rolling Stones, PJ Harvey and Oasis grace its stage.

It was also a place that championed British indie bands, and kept its eyes peeled for hot new international artists – sometimes providing them with their UK debut.

The club lies at the end of a tiny alleyway in Soho, just a stone’s throw away from Denmark Street. This was once the heartbeat of the UK’s music industry, where Bowie and Hendrix rehearsed in its studios, and skulked around its guitar shops. In its boho cafés they would sip coffee – or something stronger.

Denmark Street’s music heyday is now a distant memory, with scant few music shops remaining, but thankfully Borderline has now reopened after a major refurbishment to keep the beat alive.

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The club has transformed from an earthy venue to something sleek and savvy with striking features. The subterranean space has black walls and low ceilings, with exposed blackened steel pipes. The cocktail lounge area has colourful sofas with a teal textured wall, dominated by a striking row of painted animal skulls (below left) – a nod to the club’s former years when it used to adjoin a Tex-Mex restaurant. The Mexican theme continues at the huge neon-lit bar, where its choice of tequilas and margaritas is impressive.

But, of course, most of the new – and old – generation of visitors are going to Borderline predominantly for the music. The prominent stage, which is large compared to the rest of the club, will play host to little-known bands, club nights and its famous Titled nights – a throwback to the old days – with indie and alternative acts. This will be the place to discover the next great act. There’s also decent space for dancing – and let’s face it, you’re never too old to dance.

Manette St, W1D 4JB. T: 020-7734 5547. www.borderline.london

OMEARA Nestling in the railway arches close to London Bridge, this new live music venue (above) was set up by Mumford & Sons’ Ben Lovett. It’s a space with atmosphere, suited to acts that are acoustic driven. This month, look out for American folk-rock singer William Tyler (4 Jun) and the dance-orientated Brooklyn trio Moon Hooch (12 Jun).

6 O’Meara St, SE1 1TE. www.omearalondon.com

THE GARAGE Another place that’s just reopened after a major refurbishment is The Garage, the north London music venue where the likes of Radiohead have performed. Split over several spaces, with music events in each, the main 600-capacity venue has been restored to its former glory, with high-tech lighting and a sound system. Enjoy the intimate performance space of Thousand Island, and chill out in the General Store, an all-day café-bar with craft beers and cocktails.

20-22 Highbury Crescent, N5 1RD. www.thegarage.london

BORDERLINE IMAGES COURTESY OF BORDERLINE; OMEARA © GEORGINA JACKSON

The beat is back at Borderline, a live music venue that has been transformed.

Now it’s set to impress a new generation of music lovers, says Emma Levine

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened more than 100 years ago, offers cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9.

Station: Blackfriars.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese

Booking Office Bar

This landmark pub has wood-panelled walls and vaults that are thought to date back to a 13th-century Carmelite monastery which once stood here. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings, and stone walls dating back to 1873.

Tasty bar snacks. www.bookingofficebar.com.

Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7.

Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

BARS & CLUBS

Cittie of Yorke

The Back Room

The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint in the traditional pub for a real taste of historic London.

22 High Holborn, WC1 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670.

D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

Next to Hard Rock, the bar boasts vintage and iconic music items, including a door from the Apple Studios signed by the Beatles. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and a great vibe. www.hardrock.com.

148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700.

E6. Station: Green Park.

The Dog and Duck

68 & Boston

A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers, as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House No music, TV or mobile phones makes this cosy Soho pub a real gem. www.frenchhousesoho.com.

49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Rd.

The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Sophisticated Soho venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. The ground-floor bar boasts wine from lesser-known regions, including Uruguay, and all bottles are just £20. Nightly food menu. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Bar at Bellamy’s Classic cocktails and wines are served in a classic setting, which is decorated with vintage ski posters. www.bellamysrestaurant.co.uk.

18/18a Bruton Place, W1J 6LY. T: 020-7491 2727.

E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Baranis A taste of Provence in London, this chic bar has a grand vaulted cellar full of fine French wines and pastis, plus the UK’s only indoor pétanque court. www.baranis.co.uk. 115 Chancery Lane, WC2 1PP. T: 020-7242 8373. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

Burlock Rum is definitely the spirit of choice here, in a relaxed bar that specialises in many types of cocktails prepared with the Caribbean spirit and unusual ingredients. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.

BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create your drink. Booking is advisable. www.byoc.co.uk.

9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE. T: 0203441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.

Cartizze Bar Timeless, luxury Bellini and cocktail destination in Mayfair, with Art Deco oak panelling and leather-topped bar stools. Enjoy the excellent service and good bar menu. www.cartizzebar.com.

4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

City Social Jason Atherton offers spectacular food and drink surrounded by breathtaking views of London. The bar has impressive Art Deco interior, and Prohibitioninspired cocktail list. There’s also an adjoining restaurant. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703.

D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

The Guinea Site of an inn since 1423, this was where wealthy Mayfair’s stable hands and servants used to drink. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Magpie & Stump This pub, opposite the Old Bailey, dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

The Punchbowl

Top Pick

The popular Mayfair-based pub-restaurant was once owned by film director Guy Ritchie. Enjoy a variety of ales in the unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 0207-493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.

UNTITLED COURTESY OF UNTITLED

The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including highwayman Dick Turpin and novelist Charles Dickens, at this historic pub, which is one of the oldest in London. www.thespaniardshampstead. co.uk. Spaniards Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406.

Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Waxy O’Connor’s Longstanding, huge Irish bar, comprising four bars over six levels. It shows Ireland’s major sporting events on big screens. www.waxyo connors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

All in the name The latest bar from Tony Conigliaro (owner of Bar Termini and 69 Colebrooke Row) is all about Japanese minimalism. It’s no surprise that Untitled, his new venue in east London, is causing a stir. Paying homage to Andy Warhol’s Silver Factory in New York, a hip haven for artists and radicals in the 1960s, the walls here are silver, and there’s a spotlit bust of Pan, the god of creativity, nature and sexuality. Prepare to try 12 bespoke drinks, from Waif (rhubarb, rose and silver tip) to Gonzo (caramel, buckwheat and ambrette).

If you’re hungry, nibble on shiso pickled pear with dried seaweed, or hot udon noodles.

538 Kingsland Rd, E8 4AH. T: 07841-022924. www.untitled-bar.com. Off map.

Station: Dalston Junction www.wheretraveler.com 73

NIGHTLIFE C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery) A wonderful well-stocked, retro-styled cocktail bar that overlooks the striking copper stills of the distillery. Tastings, classes and tours, including an Evolution of Gin tour, are available. www.cityof londondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3446. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

Dirty Martini With deluxe banquettes and a quirky layout, this cocktail bar is a hit with its extensive list of martinis.

Mon-Sat 4pm-late. Multiple branches. www.dirty martini.uk.com. 10c Hanover Square, W1S 1JH. T: 020-7632 2087. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Dolls House

Hixter Bankside

Scarfes Bar

Restaurateur Mark Hix’s bar shows his trademark interest in modern art – see an installation by Helen Chadwick that replicates a London Tube carriage. www.hixrestaurants.co.uk. 16 Great Guildford St, SE1 0HS. T: 020-7921 9508. E9. Station: Southwark.

Part of the luxury hotel Rosewood London, this bar is named after Gerald Scarfe, the cartoonist famous for his satirical illustrations. Enjoy Indian-inspired snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

Mahiki

Six Storeys

This glitzy tiki haunt is a real draw for celebrities.

The Polynesian-themed club offers classic and fresh fruit cocktails and special creations to share, including Treasure Chest and Honolulu Honey. www.mahiki.com. 1 Dover St, W1S 4LD. T: 020-7493 9529. E7. Station: Green Park.

Bohemian, decadent bar in a Soho townhouse, split over six levels. Creative cocktails are its speciality. www.sixstoreys.com. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 7381. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Rd.

The Met Bar

Acclaimed restaurateur Jason Atherton’s stylish wine bar and restaurant with counter and tableserved tapas. All the waiters are sommeliers and there is a magnificent wine shop upstairs. www.jasonatherton.co.uk. 39 James St, W1U 1DL. T: 020-7993 3257. D6. Station: Bond Street.

This stylish cocktail bar and private members’ club offers mixed drinks in The Parlour on the ground floor, with weekly jazz nights. www.thedead dollsclub.com. 181 Upper St, N1 1RQ. T: 020-7288 1470. D7. Station: Highbury & Islington.

With a suave Mayfair setting, it’s a fresh, stylish look for this famous bar in the Metropolitan Hotel.

Extensive wine list, vintage Champagne by the glass and cocktails, plus a British food menu. www.metbar. co.uk. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 1000.

Off map. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Draft House

The Nightjar

Enjoy fabulous draft beers from around the world at this friendly bar. Measures come in one-third pint glasses (and larger), perfect for discovering your favourite. www.drafthouse.co.uk. 206-208 Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7378 9995. E11.

Station: London Bridge/Tower Hill.

Old-school glamour and Prohibition-era cocktails are the signature of this new basement hangout in Shoreditch. Live music from the jazz golden age adds a touch of style. www.barnightjar.com.

129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10.

Station: Old Street.

Drakes Tabanco

Old Bengal Bar

A Spanish-style bar that serves rare sherries which have been aged in ancient oak barrels – enjoy a self-poured tipple straight from the barrel. There are also craft beers, a range of natural wines and tapas. www.drakestabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

The Drift All aboard this chic, relaxing oasis in the heart of the City. Its industrial-style décor has ocean-inspired touches, while the bar serves punch bowls and cocktails. www.thedriftbar. co.uk. Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 0845-468 0103. D10.

Station: Barbican.

Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and nightclub. www.freedom barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

One New Change Champagne Bar Superbly located near St Paul’s Cathedral, this stunning bar boasts a huge selection of bubbly, plus Champagne cocktails and premium beers (various branches around London). www.searcys champagnebars.co.uk. 1/F One New Change, EC4M 9AF. T: 020-7871 1213.

D10. Station: St Paul’s.

John Keats wrote his poem Ode to a Nightingale in The Spaniards Inn in Hampstead

Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is the highest Champagne bar in London and the ideal place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks. www.shangri-la.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Good Godfreys Old-style glamour and classic cocktails are served with a hint of history at this suave establishment.

Try signature cocktails including the Astor Hip Flask. www.waldorfhilton.co.uk. The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles from around the world since 1890 in its stone-walled basement. It’s hugely popular, so a seat is a real bonus. Well-priced pub food, including cheese plates. www.gordonswine bar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408.

E8. Station: Embankment/Charing Cross.

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Converted from a former East India Co warehouse, this venue boasts an atmospheric dark interior, with the original brick walls and wooden beams, stylish leather banquettes and classy cocktails. www.old bengalbar.com. 16 New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Opium Cocktail Bar

Social Wine & Tapas

St Pancras Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar takes pride of place in the graceful station where the Paris Eurostar arrives. There are leather banquettes and call buttons to summon a waiter to refill your glasses.

Fabulous selection of bubbly plus fresh seafood platters from this Searcys outlet. www.searcys champagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross.

Trader Vic’s Tiki-style basement bar and restaurant, which is more than 50 years old. The menu has rum-laced cocktails − try the Mai Tai cocktail in this exotic setting. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Trader’s Wine Bar Sample wines from around the globe in this intimate venue, also paired with boards of cured meats and cheeses. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

The Zetter Townhouse

This stylish upstairs bar tucked away in Chinatown, in the style of an old Shangai bar, serves innovative Chinese-inspired cocktails. Booking highly recommended. www.opium chinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Tony Conigliaro, known for his groundbreaking cocktails, brings his mixology magic to this intimate lounge. www.thezettertownhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545.

Off map. Station: Farringdon.

Oriole

Aspers Casino

Cocktail bar hidden beneath Smithfield Market, with live jazz and blues most nights. Beautiful interiors, and drinks inspired by the Old World, New World and the Orient. www.oriolebar.com.

Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Avenue, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Primo Bar

CASINOS Poker, slot machines and table games, with great views of the Olympic Stadium from the Sky Bar at this 24-hour venue. www.aspersstratford.co.uk. Westfield Stratford City, Montifichet Rd, Olympic Park, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8536 5630. Off map. Station: Stratford.

The Casino at the Empire

Sumptuous, modern cocktail bar with live music and afternoon tea, plus a VIP area with river views.

Try the Asian-inspired cocktails. www.primobar. co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.

There is a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games at this spectacular venue, housing a contemporary Asian restaurant and several bars. www.thecasinolsq.com.

5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Reverend J W Simpson

Grosvenor Gloucester Casino

This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend, proved by the blue plaque outside.

Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.

A vibrant and friendly casino offering a wide choice of gaming facilities, plus a late-night bar and relaxed restaurant. Open 24 hours. www.grosvenorcasinos.com. 4-18 Harrington Gardens, SW7 4LJ. T: 020-7373 7134. G4.

Station: Gloucester Road.

NIGHTLIFE Hippodrome Casino

London Cabaret Club

This landmark venue has fabulous gaming on three floors, plus the 150-seat Heliot Steak House.

Food is served around the clock. There is The Late Jazz Jam (every Thur from 11pm). www.hippo dromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Cabaret gets a modern twist at this unique club within the Bloomsbury Ballroom. ‘Best of British Pop’ is packed with chart-toppers from the 1960s to the present day, fusing dance, acrobatics and theatre on stage. Dinner and VIP tickets available. www.thelondoncabaretclub.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002.

D8. Station: Holborn.

The Sportsman Casino This club combines the best in traditional and electronic gaming, informal dining, a sophisticated poker lounge, a sports bar and an elegant restaurant. Smart dress; complimentary membership. www.thesportsmancasino.com.

Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3642 8531.

D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Ronnie Scott’s The world-famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Ella Fitzgerald, Prince and Miles Davis (see p. 53 for full listings). The venue also includes a bar and

restaurant. The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age, which makes it good for families.

Live acts every night, plus Sat and Sun lunchtimes.

Look out for more intimate gigs upstairs every Wed. Reservations highly recommended. www.ronnie scotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellows Gentleman’s Club Over the years, celebrities and the public have enjoyed a memorable evening of entertainment supplied by ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables.

Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.com.

16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 0207240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT The 100 Club Famous basement live music venue with diverse performers; in the past these have included The Rolling Stones, Muddy Waters and Paul Weller. The emphasis today is on rock and blues bands, with DJ nights. www.the100club.co.uk.

100 Oxford St, W1D 1LL. T: 020-7636 0933. D7.

Station: Tottenham Court Road.

606 Club A relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant, which has been run by musician Steve Rubie for more than 30 years. The venue specialises in British-based artists, playing blues, r’n’b and soul. There is also a restaurant that serves great food. www.606club.co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map.

Station: Fulham Broadway.

The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus a DJ at weekends.

There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye, plus Cajun comfort food, on offer. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN. T: 020-7387 5277. Off map.

Station: Camden Town.

Bunga Bunga Part restaurant, part bar and lots of live entertainment, this new Covent Garden venue has all the makings of a theatrical night out. Enjoy Italian cuisine as you watch the live cabaret acts.

If you are with a group, ask for the Disaronno Boat, which is shaped like a speedboat and seats up to 10 guests. www.bungabunga-london.com.

167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG. T: 020-7590 3602.

D8. Station: Holborn.

The Comedy Store One of the country’s best and most famous venues for stand-up and improvised comedy, where many of Britain’s comedians made their mark. The Comedy Store Players (Sun) sees the likes of Paul Merton and Neil Mullarkey, plus there are regular stand-up nights and late-night shows. www.the comedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Forge This award-winning bijou acoustic venue behind the Foundry restaurant enjoys a variety of live music most nights, ranging from classical and folk to traditional Indian and jazz. The upstairs restaurant serves Latin American street food. www.forge venue.org. 3-7 Delancey St, NW1 7NL. T: 020-7383 7808. Off map. Station: Camden Town. www.wheretraveler.com 75

WELLBEING | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from top left: Bamford Haybarn Spa; King’s Cross Pond Club; London Aquatics Centre Bottom left and inset: The Club on Park Lane

Pretty pools There is something quite exciting about going for a swim in a cool, calming pool in the middle of a big, bustling city. Whether it is outdoors, on a rooftop or even a former Olympic one, London has a surprising mix.

Swimming outdoors in the capital is definitely for the brave, as the temperatures are often cold. One of the most popular swimming pools is Hampstead Heath’s Ponds (Highgate Rd, NW5 1QR). The surrounding woodland is a magical setting: when you stumble upon the lakes, which are hidden by trees, it feels like you have found a secret spot. The men’s, women’s and mixed pools are the only public pools in London that are open every day. Other outdoor pools include King’s Cross Pond Club (Tapper Walk, N1C 4BE) and Serpentine Lido in Hyde Park (Hyde Park, W2 2UH).

Who knows who you might bump into at the Bamford Haybarn Spa in The Berkeley hotel in Knightsbridge (p. 77)? The spa has always been in fashion. One of its regulars was the late designer Alexander McQueen, 76 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

and the original Cotswolds branch, Bamford Haybarn Spa, is popular with the likes of model Kate Moss. What the pool lacks in size – it is only 10m long – it makes up for with a postcard-worthy view over the Royal Parks.

On warmer days the rooftop opens up, so you can sunbathe. Perch on one of the poolside loungers, and enjoy food and drink that includes healthy smoothies and salads. While you are there, enjoy a massage treatment or take advantage of the gym.

If you fancy exclusivity, The Club on Park Lane (140 Park Lane, W1K 7AA) in the Marriott London Park Lane boasts one of London’s most luxurious pools. Dimly-lit, blue hues give the impression that this 12.5m-long heated pool is infinite. Recently renovated, it includes steam rooms, a gym and treatment rooms for massages. The pool is available to hotel guests with a membership.

Let out your inner Olympian at the London Aquatics Centre inside the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park (p. 27). It was here that the American swimmer Michael Phelps became the most decorated Olympian, and diver Tom Daley won a bronze medal for Britain.

The late Dame Zaha Hadid’s undulating building can fit up to 2,500 spectators and has several pools, including the competition pool that is of heroic proportions – it is 50m long and 3m deep. The more adventurous can also try diving classes, as part of Tom Daley’s Diving Academy, which are available for adults and children. It’s time to dive into London!

BAMFORD HAYBARN IMAGE COURTESY OF BAMFORD HAYBARN; KING’S CROSS POND CLUB IMAGE COURTESY OF KING’S CROSS POND CLUB; LONDON AQUATICS CENTRE IMAGE COURTESY OF QUEEN ELIZABETH OLYMPIC PARK; THE CLUB ON PARK LANE IMAGES COURTESY OF MARRIOTT LONDON PARK LANE HOTEL

Whether you want to swim in a pool fit for an Olympian, a pond or an exclusive club, London is the place in which to make a splash. Kohinoor Sahota dives right in

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway.

References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 80-81)

SPAS Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow-dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.aveda institute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Bamford Haybarn Spa Loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic approach to wellbeing, and use botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool and secret garden (p. 76). www.the-berkeley.co.uk.

The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members’ only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in the 56ft pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon.

There are treatment rooms for disabled visitors. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map.

Station: Imperial Wharf.

Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. In The Penthouse, a private suite, you can share the experience with a guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skincare range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension in your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond Street.

Mandara Spa This spa has an Asian touch: the décor includes a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage, where bamboo stalks are used on your body. www.mandara spa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Mandarin Oriental A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Facilities include a 55ft pool and gym.

Book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com.

One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600.

D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to sports massage.

If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a gold age-defying facial and carat diamond face and body rituals. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Spa Illuminata Voted the best day spa in London by Condé Nast, this spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

AVENA MASSAGE by qualified female masseuse.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Urban Retreat at Harrods This is one of the few places in London that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include extensions, weaves, wig creation and cutting in the Wig Boudoir. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Ushvani

Late appointments available

This plush venue was voted the best day spa

by Tatler. The philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com.

31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

Geo F Trumper A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and hair cuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work.

The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Windle & Moodie An award-winning hair salon, which specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden. www.wheretraveler.com 77

ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card.

It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London.

You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £3 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London.

Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon.

An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses.

For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube)

Concierges in the capital use Where London for information, and they are always reliable experts in their own right Tony Baum, concierge at Bulgari Hotel London, shares his top tips What are popular requests?

A reservation for Japanese restaurant Zuma is a daily request, among other restaurant bookings. The strangest request I’ve ever had was to find some lion cubs for a Disney-themed children’s birthday party.

Why is your hotel unique?

We have the longest hotel swimming pool in London.

At 25m long, it’s half the length of an Olympic pool.

What do you suggest for visitors with one day?

Take an open bus tour.

Make it extra special with a B Bakery’s Afternoon Tea Bus. What do you recommend for repeat visitors?

Head for the Cotswolds to experience quintessential English villages and beautiful scenery.

78 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

Where is London’s most romantic spot?

Have a meal in the pretty conservatory at Clos Maggiore in Covent Garden, then walk along the river to see London at night.

What do you recommend for visitors with children?

ZSL London Zoo is always great for children of all ages; my daughter never gets bored of it. If you have more time, head out to Woburn Safari Park in Bedfordshire.

Teenagers will love the Warner Bros. Studio Tour, which has Harry Potter sets and props. It’s about an hour outside of London and well worth the visit.

What if it rains?

Visit one of London’s many art galleries. The National Gallery is my favourite – you can see some of Canaletto’s finest works there.

Share a hidden gem.

Have a pint of ale at The Grenadier Pub in Belgravia.

A quintessential English experience is...

A day at the races at Ascot Racecourse.

Clockwise from top left: ZSL London Zoo; the lounge at Bulgari Hotel London; the pool at Bulgari Hotel London; a dish at Clos Maggiore Inset: Tony Baum

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map opposite. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands.

Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.

Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras International (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, and southeast England.

Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England.

For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950.

Eurostar uses St Pancras International.

Visit www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (or if you’re outside the UK, call T: 01233-617 575).

LION © ZSL; LOUNGE COURTESY OF BULGARI HOTEL; POOL © ROBERTO BONARDI; CLOS MAGGIORE © CAROL SACHS; TONY BAUM © FILIP LATKA

AT YOUR SERVICE

www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly line. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).

ESSENTIALS

Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Mail Boxes Etc

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river service at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland.

Mail Boxes are also trained certified packers.

T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street.

Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs.

For more information, visit www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com.

Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.

UNDERGROUND SIGN © ISTOCK; MAP COURTESY OF TFL

Congestion Charge There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14).

UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.

River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. www.thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 20 main piers. Discounts on single journeys on all MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. The River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. From £2 for 30 minutes; the first 30 minutes are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe. SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl.

Victoria. Map D4. gov.uk/coaches

DELIVERY AirPortr (Luggage delivery service) Same-day luggage transfer between London’s airports and hotels – travel bag-free and make the most of your time here. Prices start at £15 for one bag plus £10 for each additional item (any size or weight). T: 020-3384 6677. www.portr.com.

24-hour Tube lines Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon.

• Jubilee Line: Across the entire line.

• Victoria Line: Across the entire line.

• Northern Line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town to High Barnet/Edgware. Night Tube will not stop at Charing Cross until July.

• Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5.

• Central Line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 79

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WHERE NOW | RUFUS HOUND

RUFUS HOUND COMEDIAN AND ACTOR Hound is an actor, presenter and comedian. He has starred in stage productions of The War of the Roses, Dirty Rotten Scoundrels and One Man, Two Guv’nors. He is appearing as Mr Toad in The Wind in the Willows at the London Palladium from 16 June.

What is your perfect breakfast?

I usually have breakfast before I travel into London. I don’t tend to eat much. If I’m having breakfast then it’s a coffee from Kaffeine. They have a couple of outlets now in the West End. What are your favourite buildings?

I never go past the Natural History Museum without being completely thrilled. As someone who doesn’t believe in any traditional God, I find it brilliant that Darwin convinced people we were here as a result of natural selection – so when they needed a suitable magnificent building to house what he collected, they essentially built a gothic cathedral.

What are your favourite green spaces?

For those with an adventurous demeanour, Richmond Park or Bushy Park. They’ve got deer!

Where do you like to go shopping?

I like shopping in east London. A stone’s throw from Liverpool Street station, there are popups, independent shops and Brick Lane. Now I tend to shop in Soho as that’s where I work.

What places in the city inspire you?

I can never not love London for as long as Waterloo Bridge stands. The view from both sides: the historic view of Parliament, and across it you have the London Eye. You have the undeniable nature, and man’s claim to the land with the architecture that rudely protrudes.

From one location, you can see a history of the architecture of Western civilisation.

82 W H E R E LO N D O N I J U N E 2017

Is there a place in London that holds a special memory for you?

When I was brought to London as a kid, in my head ‘Covent Garden’ meant being in London. When I left school I got a job in an office in the centre of the neighbourhood and thought: ‘I’ve cracked this, I’m a proper grown-up, I work in Covent Garden.’ I also did street theatre here, and now I have children, they stand and watch street performers in the same place, telling the same jokes that I told.

How do you prefer to travel around?

I am a motorcyclist. It’s fun to be on a journey through central London traffic, and getting into the gaps on the outside.

Would you do anything extravagant?

I have been to a lot of marches, which always have a point to them. I would shut down Trafalgar Square, erect a stage and run a rally telling people to be nicer to each other. People want to be nicer, but we are all too scared.

Where do you like to drink?

The Phoenix on Cavendish Square has fine beers, comedy and bands.

Tell us about The Wind in the Willows.

If you want to tick off London, then see The Wind in the Willows – it’s an English story, by an English playwright, with English composers and a modern British cast. We are doing a show that is essentially a big warm hug.

What would be your ideal entertainment?

I saw Elbow recently at Hammersmith Apollo and Jerusalem and The Book of Mormon in the West End. I also like The Comedy Store.

Where do you like eating out?

Bob Bob Ricard just off Beak Street. It was opened as a testimony to Russian opulence, at exactly the point in 2008 when the economy crashed. It was spectacularly mistimed. It serves a beef broth that comes with raw beef at the bottom of a tea cup. It is one of the finest things I’ve put in my mouth. When I go full Oliver Reed, I intend on spending thousands of pounds in a day here, and leaving with diseases.

What makes London stand out?

Londoners! They are both a mix of the most helpful people, and people in a hurry. London stands out because it welcomes people from all over the world. In other cities cultures get divided up, whereas London is a melting pot – what it means to be alive on planet Earth at any time is represented in London more than any other city I have ever been to.

Where would you spend the night?

Hazlitt’s Hotel on Frith Street in Soho. It feels like you are stepping into the 19th century.

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