Where London September 2016

London

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

BOTTOMLESS BRUNCHES Enjoy breakfast with bubbles

TOTALLY THAMES

Follow our guide to the river festival

24-HOUR LONDON Cafés, bars and now the Tube.

Discover why this is the city that never sleeps

STARRY NIGHT

Sir Patrick Stewart and Sir Ian McKellen return to the West End

CITY OF STYLE

British brands front London Fashion Week

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

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ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

DINING

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Contents See more of London at wheretraveler.com/london

London

SEP T EMBER 2 0 16 W HER E T R AV EL ER . C OM

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

BOTTOMLESS BRUNCHES Enjoy breakfast with bubbles

TOTALLY THAMES

ON THE COVER

Follow our guide to the river festival

24-HOUR LONDON Cafés, bars and now the Tube.

Discover why this is the city that never sleeps

September

STARRY NIGHT

Sir Patrick Stewart and Sir Ian McKellen return to the West End

CITY OF STYLE

British brands front London Fashion Week

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

CULTURE

ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

WL SEPT 2016 COVER.indd 1

DINING

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Experience the best of day and night at The View from The Shard. Image courtesy of The View from The Shard

The Guide 42

20 SIGHTSEEING The Gherkin, Tower 42 and ArcelorMittal Orbit are just some of the sights you can see during the annual Open House London festival.

34 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Fans of design can enjoy the London Design Festival and the new London Design Biennale.

54 SHOPPING Celebrate British style at Best of Britannia and London Fashion Weekend.

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60

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Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW

14 A VIEW OF THE THAMES

As the river festival Totally Thames sails into town, read Join in September’s top events, including the celebrations our guide to riverside sights, from bars to museums. for the late Roald Dahl’s 100th birthday, the Darbar Festival showcasing the best in South Asian classical music and 18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE the 350th anniversary of the Great Fire of London.

Take your pick of trusted British brands, from Burberry to Belstaff, at London Fashion Week.

10 24-HOUR LONDON

Calling all night owls! As parts of the London Tube network open for 24 hours at the weekend, discover how you can enjoy the capital for longer in bars, gyms and hairdressers that stay open all night.

82 MY LONDON The Michelin-starred chef James Lowe, founder of the modern British restaurant Lyle’s, shares his favourite city spots including food markets, cemeteries and museums.

60 DINING Stretch out the most important meal of the day with a Bottomless Brunch in restaurants including HIX Mayfair, Jar Kitchen and Pachamama.

72 NIGHTLIFE Sample wines from independent vineyards at Humble Grape and hangovers will be a thing of the past.

76 SPAS & SALONS Experience the rise in mindful therapies that aim to improve your mental and physical state through breathing, meditation, sleep and fitness.

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ARABIC EDITION SUMMER 2016 ®

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EDITION

SUMMER

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2016

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| SUMMER 2016

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42 ENTERTAINMENT Sir Patrick Stewart and Sir Ian McKellen star in Harold Pinter’s classic play No Man’s Land.

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Download past and present issues from across the Where Network via Magzter’s app. Go to the app store.

THE WHERE PASS The all-new Where Pass makes experiencing London hassle-free. Incorporating the latest in contactless debit card technology, users of the Where Pass are able to travel around using the public transport system and gain discounted entry into top attractions. www.wherepasslondon.com

78 ESSENTIALS Danny Wilkin, head concierge at the London Marriott Hotel in Grosvenor Square, shares his tips on how to make the most of your visit.

80 MAPS A map of central London. w w w.where t r ave l e r. c o m 3

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Vol. No. 42 Issue No. 9 ISSN 0951 323X YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

4 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2016

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WELCOME

Editor’s Letter

Making waves When you are compiling your list of must-see sights, it can be easy to forget one of the most important ones: the River Thames. Running for 215 miles, it snakes through the centre of the city and can be enjoyed in so many ways, with riverside restaurants, speedboats and, this month, the Totally Thames festival (p. 14).

Bringing together everything from river races to a singing bridge, the festival promises to be an exhilarating event. Use our illustrated guide, created by Kerry Hyndman, to see how you can make the most of the Thames.

Different time zones and jet lag are some of the unfortunate side effects of travel.

But the 24-hour Tube, running at weekends on select lines, may help to ease the problem.

If you crave bagels at midnight or fancy a haircut at 3am, read about venues that are open all night (p. 10).

September’s packed with events celebrating British design, from art to fashion. Buyers, editors and celebrities flock to the city for London Fashion Week. While you can’t get behind the velvet rope to these A-list events, you can experience fashionable fun at London Fashion Weekend with its guest speakers, pop-up shops and beauty stalls (p. 54).

Still stuck for ideas on what to do? For daily updates and giveaways, follow us on our social media networks. Enter one of our competitions and who knows, your evening’s entertainment could be sorted by us – for free!

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London

MAP © KERRY HYNDMAN

Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: Where London

Above: Kerry Hyndman’s illustration of the River Thames.

See more of her work at www.kerryhyndman.co.uk w w w.where t r ave l e r. c o m 5

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NOW This September London celebrates the anniversaries of the rock legend Jimi Hendrix and the much-loved author Roald Dahl while commemorating the Great Fire

THE GREAT FIRE OF LONDON 1-30 SEPTEMBER

Who would have thought that one bakery could have caused such a disaster? After midnight on 2 Sep 1666, Thomas Farriner left his oven lit, igniting a fire that became one of London’s biggest catastrophes.

Commemorate the disaster at free talks at The Monument (1-2 Sep), which was built to mark the fire, and in the Museum of London’s immersive Fire! Fire! exhibition.

Artichoke’s London’s Burning (to 4 Sep), meanwhile, is a series of events including an underwater show in the Square Mile. www.themonument.info; www.museum oflondon.org.uk; www.artichoke.uk.com 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2016

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50TH ANNIVERSARY OF JIMI HENDRIX 1-30 SEPTEMBER

The rock legend Jimi Hendrix died in September 1970, aged just 27. But it was 50 years ago this month that he first came to London. To honour the performer, Handel & Hendrix in London is hosting a range of events. Take its 50th anniversary tour (17 Sep) and you’ll see key Hendrix sights, including some of the venues where he played. You can also enjoy a guitar lesson inside his former home (10 Sep) and go to a party (23 Sep). www.handelhendrix.org

TURNER PRIZE FROM TUESDAY 27 SEPTEMBER

Set up in 1984 and named after the 18th-century landscape painter JMW Turner, the Turner Prize is an annual £25,000 award given to a British artist under the age of 50 for their outstanding contribution to art. This year’s four shortlisted artists are Anthea Hamilton (above), Michael Dean, Helen Marten and Josephine Pryde. Visit Tate Britain to see their work, which ranges from sculptures of salvaged materials to humorous installations of sexual imagery. www.tate.org.uk

NATIONAL PARALMYPIC DAY & THE MAYOR OF LONDON’S LIBERTY FESTIVAL SATURDAY 3 SEPTEMBER

For those who were wowed by stars of the London 2012 Paralympics, such as David Weir’s heroics in the wheelchair marathon and Ellie Simmonds in the pool, there’s an opportunity to try out some of these sports on National Paralympic Day. This annual free event, taking place in the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, sees thousands of people turn out to try disability and inclusive sports from cycling to wheelchair dance. Also in the Olympic Park, the Mayor of London’s Liberty Festival takes place on the same day.

The event showcases the country’s top talent in disabled and deaf arts, with live bands, DJs, sound and visual installations and pop-up art studios. www.london.gov.uk www.wheretraveler.com 7

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September

sunday 25 september

Make way for London’s other royal family. The Pearly Kings and Queens Harvest Festival sees Londoners dressed up in suits decorated with pearl buttons.

Starting at 1.30pm in Guildhall Yard, a group parades with a marching band, drummers, donkeys, Morris dancers and maypole dancing. The event ends at 3pm in St Mary-le-Bow Church with a thanksgiving service. The festival is part of a 125-year-old tradition to raise money for the homeless. www.visitlondon.com

roald dahl 100 1-30 september

‘Those who don’t believe in magic will never find it,’ said Roald Dahl, author of books such as The BFG and Matilda.

There is a range of events to honour what would have been the writer’s 100th birthday. Aqua in The Shard is hosting a Dahl-themed afternoon tea (to 30 Sep), which is served on plates decorated with Quentin Blake’s drawings. Meanwhile, Dinner at the Twits (from 4 Sep) at The Vaults is a cross between immersive theatre and experimental dining. www.roalddahl.com

bermondsey street festival saturday 17 september

It’s not often in London that you feel as if you’re in a village. But at Bermondsey Street Festival, with its bands, stalls, catwalks and dog shows, you can enjoy the capital like a local. You might even spot the Mayor of London, Sadiq Khan. He says: ‘It has a great atmosphere; pop down and support local businesses.’ We’ll see you there! www.bermondseystreetfestival.org.uk

Get swept away by the Totally Thames festival, which starts today (p. 14)

Pride and Prejudice opens tonight at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre (p. 44) Enjoy a meeting of minds at Meatopia, a food festival at Tobacco Dock

Marco Polo, An Untold Love Story ends today at the Shaw Theatre (p. 46) Enjoy a night of cabaret at Miss Behave’s Gameshow at London Wonderground The exhibition Shakespeare in Ten Acts closes today at the British Library Watch the Paralympics on a big screen at the Royal Air Force Museum No Man’s Land with Sir Ian McKellen and Sir Patrick Stewart begins its run (p. 42) The London Flower Show is in full bloom at Osterley Park and House (p. 28) It’s the Last Night of the Proms, an annual celebration of classical music (p. 48) The Georgiana Houghton display closes today at The Courtauld Gallery (p. 38) Take a ride on the Coca-Cola London Eye for a 360-degree view of London Enjoy a behind-the-scenes tour of the Southbank Centre tonight at 6pm Learn about Cuban art in EY Exhibition: Wifredo Lam at Tate Modern (p. 41) Take part in a bat walk today at WWT Wetland Centre (p. 29) John Malkovich makes his directorial debut with Good Canary (p. 50) Open House London, a festival of architecture, begins today (p. 20) It’s the last day for you to see the tallest garden in London at The Shard (p. 29) Visit Madame Tussauds to see waxworks of politicians, musicians and more (p. 27) Fulham Palace’s outdoor film screenings begin with the classic Notting Hill (p. 26) Catch the Icelandic star Björk perform at the Royal Albert Hall (p. 51) Calling all bookworms! It’s the start of the Write on Kew literary festival (p. 28) Party like it’s 1966 as Handel & Hendrix in London stays open late tonight (p. 26) Dance the night away at a silent disco in The View from The Shard (p. 29) Mango Tree host its annual Miss Mango Tree Ladyboy competition today (p. 66)

Father Comes Home from the Wars is on tonight at the Royal Court Theatre The London Design Biennale continues at Somerset House (p. 38) The London Philharmonic Orchestra performs tonight at the Royal Festival Hall

No’s Knife by Samuel Beckett premieres tonight at The Old Vic theatre The opera Don Giovanni opens at the London Coliseum today (p. 51)

Search for more ideas at wheretraveler.com

overleaf: JIMI HENDRIX © BARRIE WENTZELL; FIRE PAINTING COURTESY OF MUSEuM OF LONDON; ANTHEA HAMILTON COURTESY OF TATE BRITAIN; WHEELCHAIR BASKETBALL © QUEEN ELIZABETH OLYMPIC PARK. this page: PEARLY KING © istock; THE BFG AND MATILDA © quentin blake 2016; MAYPOLE DANCERS COURTESY OF BERMONDSEY STREET FESTIVAL

pearly kings and queens harvest festival

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Where now | A 24-HOUR CITY

Clockwise from above: VQ Bloomsbury; Piccadilly Circus; Hippodrome Casino; training at the gym; bagels; hair treatments

VQ Bloomsbury 24 hours

This is London’s second VQ (which stands for Vingt Quatre); the first branch is located in Chelsea. The stylish café/diner has a relaxed ambience, with comfy seats and a sleek wood finish.

The illegal dives of yesteryear had dark rooms and curtained windows, but VQ is light, bright and screams ‘come on in!’

Late nights can often mean big bills, but the prices here are competitive and the night menu includes simple favourites such as breakfast, burgers and pasta.

24 hours daily. 111a Great Russell St, WC1B 3NQ. www.vq24hours.com

Beigel Bake 24 hours

Knocking out some 7,000 bagels a day, London’s oldest bagel shop, which was established in 1977, has obviously got something right.

An East End institution, it never shuts and it has a passionate and loyal clientele that can’t resist firm favourites such as hot salt beef and mustard, or smoked salmon and cream cheese. Here, late-night revellers mingle with early-morning commuters.

24 hours daily. 159 Brick Lane, E1 6SB

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THE HIPPODROME CASINO COURTESY OF

W

hen Frank Sinatra sang that he wanted to ‘wake up in a city that never sleeps’, he was singing about New York, but now that the world’s oldest Underground network opens for 24 hours a day on Fridays and Saturdays, it’s a line that can be applied to London too. That’s not to say that there haven’t been 24-hour nightspots across the capital, it’s just that as anyone who has had to queue for a night bus or wait for a black cab will know, travelling around town at 4am has been slower than they’d like. But in August all that changed, when two Underground lines, Central and Victoria, started running around the clock, with more set to follow.

With so many nightspots looking to take advantage of the increased numbers of passengers, London is loving this 24-hour buzz. But it’s not only restaurants, bars and clubs that hope to capitalise on the new services; art galleries and theatres are also likely to offer later opening hours. Even before the Tube went large, Tate Modern kept its Matisse exhibition open for 36 hours straight and Shakespeare’s Globe theatre laid on a midnight matinée of A Comedy of Errors. So what’s coming up? Here’s our pick of some of London’s top spots for all you night owls.

VQ BLOOMSBURY COURTESY OF VQ BLOOMSBURY; HAIR WASH, MAIN IMAGE AND BAGELS © istock

As parts of the London Underground are running for 24 hours on Fridays and Saturdays, Paul Critcher clocks into venues that stay open all night

OPEN

THE HIPPODROME CASINO COURTESY OF THE HIPPODROME CASINO; gym © istock

HAIR WASH, MAIN IMAGE AND BAGELS © istock

Neil Cornelius Salon 24 hours

Have you had such a bad hair day that you need to sort it out right now, even if it is 4am? Well, that’s exactly what the Neil Cornelius Salon offers – a service where you can get a cut and blow-dry whatever the time of day or night, and any day, as the venue is open 365 days a year. ‘When we first tried it, we just kept the doors open, but we’d get drunk people wandering in asking for haircuts and we couldn’t get rid of them,’ says Neil Cornelius. Since then appointments must be booked in advance.

The idea of 24-hour hair salons has proved a popular concept in cities such as New York and it is now winning over UK fans.

It’s popular with shift workers and travellers who want to throw off their jet lag with some much-needed pampering.

Haircuts start at £75.

24 hours but appointments must be booked in advance. 1st Floor, 109 New Bond St, W1S 1EG. www.neilcornelius.com

Hippodrome Casino 24 hours

Slap-bang in the heart of the West End in Leicester Square, the Hippodrome is more than just a casino. The venue has everything from The Hippodrome Live – a 180-seat theatre offering jazz, swing, soul and cabaret every night – to the Heliot Steakhouse, which has been described as London’s best steak restaurant, offering 28-day aged prime steak. The main attraction, however, is the casino, which has three floors of gaming offering everything from roulette and blackjack to baccarat, dice and slots.

24 hours daily. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. www.hippodromecasino.com

The Gym Group 24 hours

With branches across the capital, The Gym Group’s unique selling point is flexibility.

If you want to work out at any time you can and there are trained staff on hand to help. There is no contract to sign, so

visitors to London can sign up for day passes and a month’s membership for as little as £21 and be able to use the gyms throughout their stay. These are no-frills spaces, so don’t expect swimming pools and saunas, but do expect a wide range of equipment and competent staff on hand to help you get your fitness fix whatever the time. Classes are also available.

24 hours daily at various locations. www.thegymgroup.co.uk

" THE SALON IS POPULAR WITH THOSE WHO WANT TO THROW OFF THEIR JET LAG " w w w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m 11

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Where now | a 24-HOUR CITY

Bar Italia 22 hours

It’s not quite 24 hours (it shuts 5am-7am), but this stalwart of London’s late-night scene has been serving up delicious coffee, paninis, pasta and other Italian delights since it first opened in 1949. It’s been in the heart of Soho ever since, and is packed with characters and conversation. Indie band Pulp wrote a song about it and it was recreated for the 1986 movie Absolute Beginners, starring David Bowie. The pace of service is fast and boisterously Italian and the quality of the coffee is superb. To see the real Soho, this is stop number one.

Daily 7am-5am. 22 Frith St, W1D 4RF. www.baritaliasoho.co.uk

Tinseltown 16 hours

This late-night American-style diner in Farringdon has branches across town and serves everything from classic burgers, hot dogs and New York-style buffalo wings to a range of sundaes and cheesecakes.

The thick milkshakes are all priced at £4.99 and offer guilty-pleasure flavours, such as Cookies ‘n’ Cream and Peanut Butter Jelly.

When nearby nightclubs spill out at 3am it’s at its busiest. The green booths have an authentic American feel and the service is friendly, but it’s in the early hours when it comes alive with 24-hour party people.

Mon-Sat noon-4am; Sun noon-3am.

44-46 St John St, EC1M 4DF. www.tinseltown.co.uk

The View From the Shard 12 hours

While this 21st-century marvel in steel and glass, which is the tallest building in Western Europe, might not be open all night, it offers Day and Night tickets for an extra £10. During the day you can see London abuzz with city workers alongside snaking traffic, while in the evening everything becomes more romantic as the sky turns into a sparkling gem. There needs to be a limit of two hours between your visits – just enough time to visit one of the restaurants in the tower!

Mon-Sun 10am-10pm. Joiner St, SE1 9SP. Advance tickets from £39.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com

k west spa

6 hours

Now the Central line is running all night at weekends, there’s nothing stopping you from enjoying K West Hotel & Spa’s new Rock ‘n’ Cocktails Midnight Tea, which, as the name suggests, runs until midnight. In honour of the hotel’s musical heritage, the feast at 10pm includes sliders served on record covers, blueberry ‘rolling scones’ and tea-infused cocktails. A DJ spins tracks into the morning.

Bar open 2pm-6pm; 10pm-midnight. Tea served Sun-Thur 10pm-midnight. Richmond Way, W14 0AX. T: 020-8008 6600. www.k-west.co.uk

Bar italia and the view fom the shard © istock; burger image courtesy of tinsELtown; tea image courtesy of k west spa

Clockwise from left: Bar Italia; The View from The Shard; Tinseltown burger; Midnight afternoon tea at K West Spa

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Lose yourself in the Crown Jewels The treasures that united the kingdom

Book online now to save Nearest tube Tower Hill

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Royal Collection Trust © 2016, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

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A VIEW ON THE TH As the Totally Thames festival sails into town, Sam Rogg shows you how to make the most of the River Thames

I

distinctive bascule design that allows ships to pass through when it’s raised.

Even Westminster Bridge has its charms, painted to match the green leather benches in the House of Commons.

If you find yourself a little chilly one night, remember it could be worse: between the 16th and 19th centuries, the River Thames sometimes froze over, prompting Londoners to throw Frost Fairs on the ice. ‘The last one, in 1814, had an elephant dancing under Blackfriars Bridge,’ reveals Evans. By the mid-19th century, the Thames was so busy and polluted that it forced Parliament to abandon sittings due to the smell, also known as the ‘Great Stink’ of 1858. A stateof-the-art sewer system to clean up the water followed; it is still used today.

MODERN THAMES Take a walk along the River Thames now and you’ll encounter historic buildings, including palaces and monasteries, side-by-side with modern landmarks such as the London Eye, Tate Modern, Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park

FESTIVAL FEVER What better time to explore this majestic waterway than during the Totally Thames festival, which sees a 42-mile stretch of the river come alive with arts and culture events? This year’s celebration features more than 150 events with something for everyone, from large-scale art installations to river races and regattas. ‘Our major art commission this year is Floating Dreams

by Ik-Joong Kang, one of South Korea’s most important artists,’ says Evans. ‘It is based on the memories of people, now in their eighties and nineties, who were displaced by the Korean War. The millions currently on the move from war-torn areas give particular poignancy to Ik-Joong Kang’s remarkable floating island of dreams.’

Other highlights include Light Up the Ladies Bridge (22-23 Sep) and The Singing Bridge (9-25 Sep) – two free events exploring

photo credit goes here

f the River Thames could talk, what stories would it tell? Chosen by the Romans in 43AD as the ideal spot for a settlement, the river has served as a lifeline to the capital – originally called Londinium – ever since. Over the centuries, the Thames has found itself at the centre of many of the country’s most historic moments, from the signing of Magna Carta in 1215 (on an island near Windsor) to the transportation of William ‘Braveheart’ Wallace and Guy Fawkes to the Tower of London by boat. Handel’s Water Music was first performed on George I’s barge, pilots used the river to navigate during the Blitz, and Claude Monet was so enamoured by the Thames he painted it three times.

‘To walk along the River Thames is to gaze on 2,000 years of liquid history,’ says Adrian Evans, director of Totally Thames, the world’s biggest river-based celebration, which returns to the capital this month (1-30 Sep). ‘For a long time, the river had only one crossing, London Bridge. Most of the bridges you see now were added in the Victorian times.’ The most famous is, of course, Tower Bridge (below) with its

and The O2 arena (originally called the Millennium Dome). The South Bank teems with theatres, galleries, food markets, attractions and restaurants, while on the Thames itself, you can enjoy river buses, cruises and high-octane activities, such as a speedboat tour of London.

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RIVER THAMES | WHERE NOW

THAMES the history of Waterloo Bridge, which was predominately rebuilt by a female workforce during World War II. At The Brunel Museum’s remarkable Sinking Shaft underground performance space, theatregoers can watch Mooring (1-9 Sep) – a play about riverside homelessness, inspired by true events.

Last year’s sell-out Bascule Chamber Concerts (24-25 Sep) at Tower Bridge return, with composer Iain Chambers and the Juice Vocal Ensemble and Ben See Group.

Descend into the bridge’s subterranean space and listen to classic and contemporary music while surrounded by Victorian engineering.

Thrill-seekers, meanwhile, should see the world’s fastest-growing watersport during the first Stand Up Paddleboard (SUP) Relay Race on the river (1-25 Sep). Who needs dancing elephants with this tide of entertainment? www.totallythames.org

“TO WALK ALONG THE RIVER THAMES IS TO GAZE ON 2,000 YEARS OF LIQUID HISTORY”

Clockwise from top left: Angel Canal Festival; Tall Ship Cruises; The Great River Race; the Thames and Tower Bridge

MUST-SEE RIVER EVENTS THE GREAT RIVER RACE 3 SEP If you think that marathons are just for runners then you’ve never seen a Great River Race in London. Every year, more than 330 crews from around the world descend on London for an exhilarating boat race up the Thames. Much livelier than the famous Oxford-Cambridge race, The Great River Race stretches for 21.6 miles from Millwall to Ham in Surrey.

Look out for fancy-dress competitors and charity stunts as well as those hoping to become the UK Traditional Boat Champions. www.greatriverrace.co.uk

ANGEL CANAL FESTIVAL 4 SEP ‘It’s like a village fête but with boats in the middle of a city,’ says coordinator Beryl Windsor of this annual one-day festival in north London. Expect bands, a funfair, donkey rides, boat trips and taster sessions in kayaking, sailing and bell-boat racing. www.angelcanalfestival.org

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

TALL SHIP CRUISES 1518 SEP Imagine sailing past the palatial Old Royal Naval College and Cutty Sark, crossing the Prime Meridian at Greenwich and passing the commercial heartland of Canary Wharf on the deck of a regal tall ship. These spectacular cruises offer an unforgettable journey. You can even book an evening cruise to watch a fireworks display. All aboard! www.sailroyalgreenwich.co.uk w w w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m 15

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Where now | RIVER THAMES

TAKE ME TO T Whether you’re dining on it, sailing down it or admiring the landmarks, the Thames is a great way to experience the city, say Emma Levine and Sam Rogg. Illustration by Kerry Hyndman WINING & DINING Dining along, or above, the river is now big business. When the Art Deco OXO Tower opened its eighth-floor restaurant, bar and brasserie in 1996, it demonstrated that location is everything. If you haven’t time to dine, sip a sundowner cocktail on its terrace bar, looking left to the Houses of Parliament and right to St Paul’s Cathedral. It is one of those iconic ‘I was there’ spots. Skylon at the Southbank Centre and a new ninth-floor restaurant at Tate Modern offer a similar vantage point.

The Shard, meanwhile, boasts three restaurants halfway up its 72 floors, from British elegance at Aqua and European cuisine at Oblix to Hutong’s Chinese delicacies.

ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL SOMERSET HOUSE

OXO TOWER

GOLDE HINDE BIG BEN AND PALACE OF WESTMINSTER

SOUTHBANK CENTRE

TATE MODERN

COCA-COLA LONDON EYE SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE TATE BRITAIN

CAPITAL VIEWS Ever since Sir Christopher Wren built The Monument in 1671 to commemorate the devastating Great Fire of 1666, views of the capital have been a huge draw. For more than three centuries, visitors have climbed the 311 steps to gaze down at the panorama from 202ft high. An even more spectacular view is afforded by the Golden Gallery of Wren’s masterpiece, St Paul’s Cathedral, at 278ft. St Paul’s dominated the skyline for centuries, but that honour now goes to The Shard, a 21st-century marvel in steel and glass that offers truly eye-popping views of London’s landmarks along the snaking river. Of course, no trip to the city is complete without a 30-minute ‘flight’ on the Coca-Cola London Eye, one of the

world’s largest observation wheels. Those HISTORICAL LANDMARKS with an adventurous streak can get eastern Gaze on the iconic landmarks along views after slipping on a harness to climb the river and see London’s history unfold.

Up at The O2 – a gentle ascent to the top of MPs debate and legislate in the Palace of London’s foremost entertainment Westminster, better known as the centre, which has hosted Houses of Parliament. Dubbed The River performers from Madonna ‘the mother of all parliaments’, Thames was to Adele. Or why not head the site has been the seat of used as a film location east to the Queen Elizabeth governance for 1,000 years, in The World is Not Olympic Park, home of though the new building, Enough, which sees London’s 2012 Olympic including Big Ben’s famous James Bond in and Paralympic Games clocktower, formally called a high-speed and scale the UK’s largest The Queen Elizabeth boat chase sculpture? The ArcelorMittal Clocktower, dates from Orbit was designed by Anish the 19th century. When the Kapoor and Cecil Balmond and is Romans built a stronghold on the home to the world’s longest and highest banks of the Thames, they could hardly tunnel slide. have imagined it would one day become

OVERLEAF: MAIN IMAGE © istock; angel canal festival courtesy of angel canal festival; tall ship cruises courtesy of tall ship cruises; the great river race courtesy of the great river race

BATTERSEA POWER STATION

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30 ST MARY AXE

LEADENHALL BUILDING

20 FENCHURCH ST

THE MONUMENT

NAUTICAL HISTORY

The Thames has been a crucial trade route since the Middle Ages, and holds many stories of nautical history. The World War II battleship HMS Belfast, moored next to Tower Bridge, has nine decks to be explored – see the difficult conditions of its former sailors. Step back further in time to see a full-scale reconstruction of Sir Francis Drake’s famous galleon, the Golden Hinde, which now nestles on the

river near London Bridge. In Greenwich, you can tour one of the last and fastest tea clippers, the Cutty Sark, and visit the Royal Maritime Museum. Or take the journey along the Thames to experience the river in all its glory. MBNA Thames Clippers’ fast and frequent fleet is loved by sightseers and commuters alike, stopping at landmark points including Greenwich in the east and Chelsea in the west. Likewise, you can enjoy a short hop on City Cruises or its 50-minute tour.

TOWER OF LONDON

GOLDEN HINDE

HMS BELFAST

TOWER BRIDGE

CITY HALL CANARY WHARF

THE SHARD

Illustration by KERRY HYNDMAN

angel canal festival; tall ship cruises courtesy of tall ship cruises; the great river race courtesy of the great river race

O THE RIVER...

the iconic sight that is the Tower of London, which now houses the opulent Crown Jewels and is one of London’s most-visited venues. Famous names that have been executed here include King Henry VIII’s wife Anne Boleyn, Guy Fawkes and Sir Thomas More. Next to that building is Tower Bridge, which still opens up almost daily to let large vessels pass through.

Visit the engine rooms for a closer look at this spectacular feat of Victorian engineering. The white dome of St Paul’s Cathedral, meanwhile, gleams even brighter since renovations for its 300th anniversary in 2011. It affects modern landmarks to this day; the reason so many skyscrapers have an unusual shape is to protect the cathedral’s sightlines.

THE O2

THAMES BARRIER

NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

CUTTY SARK

ART & CULTURE Shakespeare’s Globe theatre is a direct link to the past; opened in 1997, it is a faithful reconstruction of the Elizabethan playhouse where the Bard’s plays premiered, though some things have changed; productions are no longer all-male, and prostitutes no longer weave through the crowd. The highly respected National Theatre actually houses three separate theatres. It stands between

the BFI Southbank film complex and the Southbank Centre, built for the 1951 Festival of Britain, which incorporates concert halls and contemporary art at the Hayward Gallery (currently closed for renovations). A little further east, few would have foreseen that a power station would house the most-visited modern art gallery in the world. Step forward, Tate Modern – now expanded with more space in a new pyramid-like structure. w w w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m 17

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

Top Pick

FROM LONDON As London Fashion Week begins, we look at the British brands that are showcasing their collections this month

LUXURY LEATHER Belstaff’s collection is inspired by the late British racing driver James Hunt James Hunt X Belstaff Monaco Jacket, 135-137 New Bond St, W1S 2TQ, £1,350

RETURN OF THE MAC Burberry invented the trench coat, which was then worn by the British army The Westminster, Burberry, 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB, £1,395

THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS Henry Holland is famous for his 1980s-inspired slogan designs On a Promise, Henry Holland, Fenwick, 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ, £150

ONE STEP AHEAD Paul Smith is known for his iconic stripes, which have graced everything from cars to carpets Multi-stripe Cotton Socks, Paul Smith, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX, £17

THAT’S A WRAP The headquarters of English luxury brand Aspinal are in the beautiful South Downs Aspinal Signature Shield Silk Scarf, Aspinal of London, 34 Long Acre, WC2E 9LA, £75

ALL THAT GLITTERS Christopher Kane studied design at London’s Central Saint Martins’ college Jacket (£1,596) and bag (£745), Christopher Kane, Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK

BAGS OF STYLE Mulberry was founded in 1971 in Somerset by entrepreneur Roger Saul Small New Bayswater in Yellow, Mulberry, 50 New Bond St, W1S 1BJ, £845

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WOMEN SHAPE THE WORLD WE SHAPE THEIR SHOES

SEE THE NEW 2016 AUTUMN/WINTER COLLECTION IN STORES NOW ECCO OXFORD STREET 445 Oxford Street, W1C 2PP London +44 207 629 10 16 ECCO OXFORD CIRCUS 261 Oxford Street, W1C 2DE London +44 207 495 47 96 ECCO COVENT GARDEN 36 Long Acre, WC2E 9JT London +44 207 379 51 45

ECCO KENSINGTON 102 Kensington High Street, W8 4SG London +44 207 938 25 83

ECCO WESTFIELD Westfield Shopping Centre, Unit 1114, W12 7GD London +44 208 735 18 30

ECCO KNIGHTSBRIDGE 45 Brompton Road, SW3 1DE London +44 207 584 57 37

ECCO WIMBLEDON Centre Court Shopping Centre, The Broadway, SW19 8ND, London +44 208 947 86 65

ecco.com

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

Grand designs An architecture and design festival is set to open many doors across the capital, says Sarah Riches They say a golden key can open any door but you don’t need any key to take part in Open House London (17-18 Sep), a free city-wide architecture and design festival.

The independent architecture education organisation, Open-City, has been hosting the festival since 1992, granting visitors access to buildings that are not usually open to the public. Most are chosen for their architectural merit, either part of the building or as a whole.

Open-City’s director, Rory Olcayto, says: ‘Open House gives Londoners the chance to explore the city’s great buildings and places that are usually off-limits. From super-contemporary private homes to super-tall skyscrapers and hidden gems you didn’t know were there, nothing is out of bounds during this celebrated annual weekend festival.’

Director of Open House, Victoria Thornton, adds: ‘Open House is an opportunity for Londoners to see how good design plays an important contributing role in creating and sustaining a “liveable” city. This year, 89 per cent of participants said the Open House event was the best way to get under the skin,

become more knowledgeable and engage in the dialogue about the capital’s architecture.’

In 2015, Crossrail construction sites, the Grade II-listed Fitzrovia Chapel and Burlington House: Royal Academy of Arts took part, as did the archive buildings in Kew Gardens.

Less well-known buildings also participated, including Roca London Gallery by Imperial

Wharf, designed by the late Zaha Hadid.

Inspired by water, it features smooth, curvy concrete walls.

This year, more than 750 buildings are participating including embassies, zerocarbon buildings, Tower 42 – the City’s third-tallest skyscraper – and 30 St Mary Axe, better known as the ‘Gherkin’.

Around 200 buildings are new for 2016, including the ArcelorMittal Orbit in the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park.

Architects, engineers and planners will be on site to answer your questions at some of the locations. In addition to touring the sites, you can also take part in free guided engineering and landscape tours of construction sites and major regeneration projects. You can also listen to expert talks, go on bike rides and take a boat trip to the Thames Barrier.

Children, meanwhile, will be able to go on quiz trails and get involved in architectural model-making.

Get out there and start exploring! www.openhouselondon.org.uk

30 st mary axe © istock; clapton house © DAVID GRANDORGE; arcelormittal orbit courtesy of arcelormittal orbit

Clockwise from left: 30 St Mary Axe (the ‘Gherkin’); Clapton House; ArcelorMittal Orbit

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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE WHERE PASS LONDON, VISIT WHEREPASSLONDON.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Last entry is approximately one hour before closing time. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

Art of the East A new art exhibition celebrating Japanese botany is set to open at the Shirley Sherwood Gallery of Botanical Art at Kew Gardens (from 17 Sep; p. 28). Kew’s galleries and exhibitions leader Maria Devaney says: ‘Flora Japonica is such an exciting exhibition as we are highlighting so many things – the quality of contemporary botanical art in Japan; the influence of native Japanese plants on the development of horticulture in Europe; the history of Kew’s relationship with Japan through plant exchanges and the Japanese gardeners who came to study at Kew.’ Alongside intricate paintings by 30 Japanese contemporary artists, you can see historic drawings and paintings from the Edo period (1603-1867) that, until now, have not been seen outside of Japan.

SIGHTSEEING Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ apsleyhouse. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Banqueting House This 17th-century building has an exquisite painted ceiling. Mon-Sun 10am-1pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6.60; child free. www.hrp. org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000.

E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with a petting farm. Daily 10am5.30pm. Adult £8.95; child £6.95. www.battersea parkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map.

Station: Battersea Park.

Buckingham Palace To 2 Oct: Opening of the State Rooms. The London residence and workplace of the monarchy. The exhibition Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen’s Wardrobe celebrates the Queen’s 90th birthday through fashion. Daily 9.15am-4.15pm. Adult £21.50; child £12.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk.

Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Linking London’s Attractions MBNA Thames Clippers are the fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, serving 20 piers across London, meaning you can see more of what London has to offer.

thamesclippers.com 1 22 Where W H E London R E LO NMagazine D O N I S 175x120.indd E P T E M B E R 2016

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KEW GARDENS’ WATERLILY HOUSE © RBG KEW

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SIGHTSEEING Changing the Guard At 11.30am every even day, watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt.

There is no ceremony in very wet weather.

Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. www.changing-the-guard.com.

Changing the Life Guard Ceremony takes place Mon-Fri 11am; Sun 10am – check for last-minute changes. www.royal.gov.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. F6/F7.

Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Chelsea Physic Garden London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 and offers free daily tours. Tue-Fri & Sun 11am-6pm.

Adult £9.50; child £6.95. www.chelseaphysicgarden. co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

Cutty Sark

Stars in your eyes Photographers have been shooting for the stars in a free astronomy exhibition at the Royal Observatory Greenwich (p. 28). Now in its eighth year, Insight Astronomy Photographer of the Year 2016 (from 17 Sep) is a global competition with a £10,000 prize. Its nine categories focus on the sun, moon and stars; people and space; planets, galaxies and aurorae such as the Northern Lights; and skyscapes. There’s also a category for under 16s. Astronomer and judge Dr Marek Kukula says: ‘The exhibition has an exciting mix of technical virtuosity, originality and imagination. We have shots of everything from meteor showers and auroral displays to galaxy clusters billions of light years away. It’s great that the night sky continues to inspire people.’

This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Take part in a lively programme of family-friendly events. To 2 Sep daily 10am-6pm; from 2 Sep 10am-5pm. Adult £12.15; child £6.30. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg. co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled the first English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this home. Mon-Sat 11am-5.30pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.

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Enjoy a private London tour for 2 or 3 hours, half day or even a full day in an iconic London Taxi.

See the sights before taking our ‘Hidden Treasures Tour’ to explore parts of London that tourists never normally get to see.

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KAYAKS © MARCUS KIILI

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SIGHTSEEING Eltham Palace & Gardens

Go Ape Battersea Park

Ham House and Gardens

Experience 1930s decadence. Part showpiece of Art Deco design and part medieval royal palace. Please check the website for prices and times. www.english -heritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

Make like a monkey at this treetop playground. Suitable for children over six. Daily from 9.30am. Adult £33; child £18-£25. www.goape.co.uk/ battersea-park. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0845643 9236. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses. It is said to be haunted. House noon-4pm; cafe, garden & shop 10am-5pm. Adult £10.40; child £5.20. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

Fulham Palace

Golden Hinde II

Handel & Hendrix in London

This was once the retreat of the Bishops of London. 20 Sep: Notting Hill. Outdoor film. 21 Sep: Where London Top Gun. Outdoor film. Museum, historic rooms 118w x 190h August and shop Sun-Thur 12.30pm-4.30pm. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulham palace.org. Bishop’s Avenue, SW6 6EA. T: 020Where London Page OffHalf map.

Station: Putney Bridge.

7736 3233.

A full-size reconstruction of Sir Francis Drake’s 16th-century vessel, in which he circumnavigated the globe. 2 Sep: Tiller Flat Folk Music Club. Live music. Charges for special events. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Guided tour adult £7; child £5. www. goldenhinde.com. 1 Pickfords Wharf, Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0123. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The former home of George Frideric Handel and Jimi Hendrix (p. 7). 17 Sep: Hendrix’s London: A 50th Anniversary Tour. Take a three-hour mini coach tour of Hendrix’s former homes and the bars in which he played. 23 Sep: Hendrix Fest: Late Night Opening. Party like it’s 1966 to live music with free drinks. Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm; Sun noon-6pm. Both houses adult £10; child £5. Handel house adult £7.50; child £3. www.handelhouse.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

HMS Belfast

ORDER, ORDER

Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm.org. uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley Street, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Book your tour today

Cheeky monkeys You’ll spot 500 people monkeying at the annual Great Gorilla Run (17 Sep).

The Gorilla Organization launched the run to raise funds to protect mountain gorillas from extinction – there are only 880 left. Race manager Chris Perrin says: ‘More than two million have joined in since we began including a gorilla riding a Tyrannosaurus rex.’ The 8km route starts in Fenchurch Street at 10.30am and ends at Mincing Lane. Even if you don’t take part, go along to cheer and get holiday pictures of gorillas in corsets and tutus. www.greatgorillarun.org

020 7219 4114

The site of British Parliament since 1265, the neo-gothic building was constructed in the 19th century. Hear Big Ben chime in its clock tower and watch debates for free from the Public Galleries.

To 3 Sep guided and audio tours daily. From 16 Sep guided and audio tours Tue-Fri. Guided tour adult £25.50; child £11. Audio tour adult £18.50; child £7.50 (first child free). www.parliament.uk/visiting.

Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

gorilla image © Daniel D. Moses

Houses of Parliament

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GORILLA IMAGE © DANIEL D. MOSES

SIGHTSEEING The Jewel Tower

ZSL London Zoo

Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

PASS PARTNER Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo. 18 Sep: Stampede 10k.

A race through the zoo. Charges for special events. 1-4 Sep 10am-6pm; from 5 Sep 10am5.30pm. Adult £25.50; child £18.50. www.zsl.org.

London Zoo, Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 0207722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

Keats House This 19th-century home belonged to the Romantic poet John Keats. Wed-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child free. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/keats househampstead. Keats Grove, NW3 2RR. T: 0207332 3868. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home. Daily 10am-6pm.

Adult £16.30; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map.

Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house with its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. 25 Sep: Kenwood Stories. Kenwood’s art collection and stories come alive. Please check for prices and times. www.english-heritage.org. uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 0208348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kew Palace PASS PARTNER This royal retreat in the grounds of Kew Gardens was home to King George III. Don’t miss the Royal Kitchens and its garden. Daily 10.30am-5.30pm.

Admission free with Kew Gardens tickets. www.hrp. org.uk. Kew Gardens, Richmond, TW9 3AB. T: 0844482 7777. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

Madame Tussauds

PASS PARTNER Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people, from the Queen to Adele. Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London

Dungeon, London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! available. 1-2 Sep 8.30am-6pm; from 3 Sep 9am-5.30pm. Please check for times. Adult £35; child £29.50. www.madametussauds.com/london.

Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6.

Station: Baker Street.

The Monument This stone tower was built in memory of the 1666 Great Fire of London. 1-2 Sep: Great Fire of London Talk. Commemorate the disaster. Daily 9.30am-6pm.

Adult £4; child £2. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.info.

The Monument, Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 0207626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

ONE OF THE BEST THINGS I’VE EVER DONE TripAdvisor Review

KidZania London Children can ‘try’ careers, including TV presenting, animation and working in a chocolate factory. Daily from 10am; call for closing times.

Adult £18; child £31-£33.50. www.london.kid zania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map.

Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; SatSun 9.30am-6pm. Adult £26.95; child £21.45. www. thelondonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The London Dungeon PASS PARTNER Sets, actors and special effects evoke ghoulish encounters from 1,000 years of Britain’s murky past. Not for small children. Joint tickets with London Aquarium, London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Mon-Wed & Fri 10am-5pm; Thur 11am-5pm; Sat 10am-6.30pm; Sun 10am-6pm. Adult £28.95; child £24.45. www.the dungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-423 2240. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Coca-Cola London Eye PASS PARTNER This icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Daily 10am-8.30pm. Adult £24.95; child £18.95. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

HELICOPTER SIGHTSEEING TOURS Call us on 020 7887 2626 or ask your concierge about booking www.thelondonhelicopter.com

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SIGHTSEEING Old Royal Naval College

Ripley’s Believe It or Not!

This Baroque masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training. Daily, please check for opening times. Admission free. www.ornc.org.

King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799.

Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

PASS PARTNER This curiosity-filled museum with over 700 artefacts is a hit across the globe. Explore oddities over six floors, from a shrunken head to an albino alligator.

Daily 10am-midnight. Adult £27.95; child £20.95. www.ripleyslondon.com. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 020-3238 0022. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park

Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew and Paralympic Games. Please check for sporting PASS PARTNER Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. research1 centre and World Heritage www.queenelizabetholympicpark.co.uk.

Queen copy.pdf BBTLDTWhereLondon_190x118_050815 05/08/2015 16:08 Site contains Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. plants from across the globe, with Victorian tropical Off map. Station: Stratford. greenhouses and a Chinese pagoda. You can also

SIGHTSEEING BUS TOUR

HOP-ON

experience The Hive, a beehive that buzzes with lights in response to a real beehive. 7-8 Sep: Kew the Movies. Watch Mean Girls and Labyrinth outdoors.

From 17 Sep: Flora Japonica. Art exhibition (p. 22). 22-25 Sep: Write on Kew. Literary festival. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £3.50. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

The Royal Mews Designed by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles.

Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.30; child £5.50. www.royal collection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 020-7766 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

Royal Observatory Greenwich

PASS PARTNER Home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium. Planetarium shows take place all day.

From 17 Sep: Insight Astronomy Photographer of the Year 2016. Photos of the stars, moon and planets (p. 24). To 2 Sep daily 10am-6pm; from 3 Sep daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Avenue, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich.

HOP-OFF

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LIVE OR

FREE RIVER CRUISE

3 FREE WALKING TOURS

CHOOSE FROM

24 OR 48 HOUR TICKETS

FREE

NIGHT TOUR

WITH 48 HOUR TICKET

RECORDED COMMENTARY

London Flower Show (8-11 Sep; p. 31), a new horticultural event at Osterley Park and House, sees 20 designs by amateur and professional gardeners compete for medals for best garden, most artistic and most exotic designs.

There will also be a garden sale, tutorials and demonstrations of flower arranging.

Sample international cuisine, watch cooking demonstrations from celebrity chefs and browse an open-air market selling organic local produce from 100 producers.

For great online savings visit:

BIGBUSTOURS.COM/LONDON or speak to your concierge

PASS PARTNER One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a scary glass walkway above 16 sharks. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat-Sun 9am-7pm.

Adult £24.50; child £18.10. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. www.sealife. co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-663 1678. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

OSTERLEY PARK © ARNHEL DE SERRA

Sea Life London Aquarium

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OSTERLEY PARK © ARNHEL DE SERRA

SIGHTSEEING Shrek’s Adventure!

PASS PARTNER Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed show.

Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Sea Life London Aquarium available. Sun-Wed 10am-5pm; Thur 11am-5pm; Sat 10am-6pm. Adult £27; child £21.85. www.shreks adventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837.

F8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Palace One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in the 14th century. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.

St Katharine Docks This marina dates back to the 11th century and is lined with markets, shops and galleries. www.sk docks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brassrubbing centre and live classical music (some free).

Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-thefields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Warner Bros Studio Tour London

Westminster Abbey

PASS PARTNER Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the burial site Explore behind the scenes of the legendary of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Harry Potter films in The Making of Harry Potter Corner, the burial place of Charles Dickens and tour. Visitors can witness iconic sets including famous writers. Mon-Sat, check for opening times. the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and Adult £20; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. a recreation of Platform 9¾. A fascinating insight 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. into filmmaking. Finding the Philosopher’s Stone.

Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

An exhibition of special effects to mark the 15th WWT London Wetland Centre anniversary of Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s This 104-acre wildlife reserve is home to more than Stone. Please check for times. Adult £35; child £27.

100 species of rare and wild birds. 15 Sep: Bat Walk.

You must pre-book. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. copy.pdf 1 05/08/2015 Daily 9.30am-5.30pm.

Adult16:01 £11.91; child £6.55.

Studio Tour BBTLNTWhereLondon_190x118_050815 Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, www.wwt.org.uk. Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, SW13 WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

9WT. T: 020-8409 4400. Off map. Station: Barnes.

SPECTACULAR SIGHTSEEING

NIGHT TOUR

St Paul’s Cathedral

PASS PARTNER Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb to the top for a classic London panorama. Free tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk.

St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350.

D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

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This bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks. Check out the glass flMoor on the walkways. Joint tickets with The Monument Y available. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £9; child £3.90. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. CM T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

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This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, CY Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the CMY Crown Jewels. Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back K to 1340 (tickets are free). Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5pm. Adult £22.50; child £10.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

The Vault This venue used to protect the Queen’s treasures under the old Coutts Bank and and is now home to the Gaultier bustier from Madonna’s Blond Ambition tour. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6.

Station: Hyde Park Corner.

RECORDED

HOP-ON, HOP-OFF

*FREE

TRANSFER BACK TO HOTEL AFTER TOUR

TOUR FREE

COMMENTARY

IN 12 LANGUAGES

WITH 48 HOUR TICKET

The View from The Shard PASS PARTNER Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe.

10, 17 & 24 Sep: Silent Disco. Dance with headphones.

To 18 Sep: Summer Garden. See The Shard’s viewing platform transformed into an English garden. Daily 10am-10pm – check before visiting. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theview fromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

For great online savings visit:

BIGBUSTOURS.COM/LONDON or speak to your concierge

*on purple route only

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SIGHTSEEING

River Trips

London Duck Tours

City Cruises Pass Partner Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music Fri-Sat. Other cruises also available. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7740 0400. Departure points vary.

Ideal if you’re keen for an amphibious adventure.

See some of London’s best-loved sights on land before experiencing a thrilling splashdown on the River Thames. Adults £26; child £18. www.london ducktours.co.uk. 55 York Rd, SE1 7NJ. T: 020-7928 3132. F8. Station: Waterloo.

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.58. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8.

Station: Waterloo.

MBNA Thames Clippers

Pass Partner The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 20 piers across the capital. Oyster cards are valid. River Roamer hop on and off adult £17.35; child £8.65. www.thames clippers.com. Various points along River Thames, T: 020-7001 2200.

Thamesjet Take a 50-minute aquabatic tour on a jetboat.

Adult from £39; child from £28. www.thamesjet. com. Various departure points. T: 020-7740 0400.

Tours & Guided Walks Authentic London Walks

THE STATE ROOMS BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Two-hour walks run by an informative, humorous guide. Wed-Sun 11am & Sat-Sun 2pm. Adult £10; child free. Departure points vary. www.authentic londontours.com. London, N6 5BT. T: 07771-610737.

Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top double-decker buses. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £22; child £11. www.bigbustours.com. Various departure points.

T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Victoria.

Big Bus Walking Tours Choose from three guided tours: Royal London at 10.20am; Harry Potter at 2pm and London Rocks at 5pm. £5, or free with a Big Bus Tour. Daily. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop 10, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753.

Station: Charing Cross.

Capital Taxi Tours Sit back and relax as a Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide drives you around in a licenced taxi for up to five people. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk.

Various departure points. T: 020-8590 3621.

City of London Guides Walks

23 July – 2 October 2016

Themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street to City gardens. Adult free-£12.50; child £4-£8. www.city oflondonguides.com. Various departure points.

Golden Tours A range of tours of London and the UK including a Jack the Ripper Walking Tour. Adult £10; child £5. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary.

T: 020-7630 2028.

GoToMidtown Tours Free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn.

There is no need to book. The 10am & 1pm walks start outside Holborn Tube station (88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA). The 11am; 2pm & 5.30pm walks start at the red sculpture in Central Saint Giles courtyard (Giles High St, WC2H 8AG). www.gotomidtown.co.uk. D7/8. Station: Holborn.

Jack the Ripper Tours

Dazzling dresses, magnificent State Rooms, a unique celebration

Two-hour walks about the serial killer. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Aldgate East Tube station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map.

Station: Aldgate East.

The London Helicopter Tour

Book in advance at www.royalcollection.org.uk or call +44 (0)303 123 7300

Glide above the River Thames taking in iconic landmarks. Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 0203553 6877. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

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SIGHTSEEING London Walks

Westways Carriage Horses

Open House London

London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Favourites include the Jack the Ripper Walk (daily 7.30pm & Sat 3pm from Tower Hill), a Harry Potter tour (Wed & Sat-Sun 2pm; departure points vary). Walks take two hours and there’s no need to book. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com.

Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

Get collected from your hotel and experience the sights from the comfort of a horse-drawn carriage.

Covers are used if the weather is wet. £475 per carriage. www.westwayscarriagehorses.co.uk.

T: 020-8572 3155.

17-18 Sep: This annual city-wide architecture

Original London Sightseeing Walk Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre and include Changing the Guard (departing 10.30am); Rock ‘n’ Roll (1pm) and Jack the Ripper (3.30pm from Tower Hill Station). Walking tours are free with Original London Sightseeing Tour. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Festivals & Events London Flower Show 8-11 Sep: Stroll around 20 show gardens, sample

organic produce and browse floral displays (p. 28). www.londonflowershow.co.uk. Osterley Park and House, Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050. Off map. Station: Osterley.

and design festival grants you access to more than 750 buildings, including iconic landmarks such as Tower 42 and some that are not usually open to the public (p. 20). www.openhouselondon.org.uk.

Various locations.

Pearly Kings and Queens Festival 25 Sep: Watch Londoners in suits decorated with pearl buttons parade with a marching band and donkeys from Guildhall Yard to St Mary-le-Bow Church in this 125-year-old tradition to raise money for the homeless (p. 8). www.visitlondon.com.

The Original Tour With more than 60 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. Adult £30; child £15. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722.

E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Most days throughout the year. Call for times.

Adult £12.75; child £5.75. www.royalalberthall.com.

Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4.

Station: South Kensington.

Royal Opera House This is one of the world’s leading opera venues and also home to the Royal Ballet company.

Take a Backstage Tour for an insight into its history. Check for times. Adult £12; child £8.50. www.royaloperahouse.org. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the city in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm; 8pm; 8.30pm; 9.15pm; 9.45pm & 10.15pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Shakespeare’s Globe (Tours) This reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe Theatre has one of the city’s only thatched roofs. Please check for times.

Globe exhibition daily 9am-5pm. Globe tours Mon 9.30am-5pm; Tue-Sat 9.30am-12.30pm; Sun 9.30am-11.30am. Exhibition and Globe tour adult £15; child £9. www.shakespearesglobe.com.

21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 0207902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Walkit Innovative site aiming to get people out on foot.

Enter your starting point and destination, and the site will work out a route map, distance, time, calorie burn and carbon saving. www.walkit.com.

Wembley Tours

Pass Partner Go behind the scenes at this famous football stadium and concert venue. The 75-minute tour takes you inside the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Daily from 10am. Adult £19; child £11. www.wembleystadium.com/wembley-tours.

Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933.

Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

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Out Of Town Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology Britain’s first public museum dates back to 1683, when the politician Elias Ashmole left his collection of antiquities and natural curiosities to the University of Oxford. See archaeological artefacts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, Egyptian mummies and Oliver Cromwell’s death mask. All Must Have Prizes 1750-1850. A display of medals and prizes from the mid-1700s explores personal and professional improvement through competition.

Free admission; charges for special events. TueSun 10am-5pm. www.ashmolean.org. Beaumont St, Oxford, OX1 2PH. T: 01865-278000. Off map.

Station: Paddington to Oxford.

Blenheim Palace See three centuries of treasures in magnificent state rooms at this Baroque palace, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. The palace is set in 2,100 acres of ‘Capability’ Brown parkland and formal gardens. 3 Sep: Salon Prive Supercar Show. A display and parade of new, rare and classic cars. 8-11 Sep: International Horse Trials. Show jumping. 16-18 Sep: Luna Cinema. Watch Spectre, Dirty Dancing and Back to the Future outdoors. 17 Sep: Royal Afternoon Tea Workshop. Learn how to create the perfect high tea.

From 28 Sep: FriendsFest. See recreated sets from the iconic 1990s comedy. ‘Upstairs’ and ‘downstairs’ tours available. Palace and formal gardens daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Adult £24.90; child £13.90. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxfordshire, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810530. Off map.

Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

Hampton Court Palace

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See

By Night

Once home to King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and maze is set in 60 acres of parkland. 16-18 Sep: Kirstie Allsopp’s The Handmade Fair. Learn gilding and lino-cutting, listen to talks by celebrities and shop for handmade crafts. Palace, maze and formal gardens daily 10am-6pm. Adult £19; child £9.50. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Leeds Castle

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

Adult - £18 Child - £10

Private tours available for groups day or night

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

www.seelondonbynight.com

Fairytale 900-year-old castle with a moat, gardens and parkland. Lose yourself in the spiralling yew maze and see birds in the aviary. 3 Sep: Sherlock Holmes and the Hound of the Baskervilles. An openair production. 9-11 Sep: Leeds Castle Food Festival.

Sample handmade produce, meet producers and join in workshops. 17 Sep: The Glorious 1930s Castle House Party. Enjoy afternoon tea, play croquet, take a punt tour of the moat and try falconry. 24-28 Sep: Festival of Flowers. See rooms transformed into works of art with floral displays by international florists and take part in workshops, talks and demonstrations.

Charges for special events. Castle daily 10.30am6pm; grounds & gardens daily 10am-6pm. Adult £24.50; child £16.50. www.leeds-castle.com.

Maidstone, Kent, ME17 1PL. T: 01622-765400.

Off map. Station: Victoria to Bearsted.

Osterley Park and House Explore this beautiful country home decorated as it would have been in the 1780s, then stroll its formal gardens or stop for a snack in the stable tearoom (p. 28). 3-4 Sep: Canoe on the Lake. House 11am-5pm; garden 10am-5pm. House & gardens adult £10.40; child £5.20. Garden adult £6.20; child £3.10. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Jersey Rd, Isleworth, Middlesex, TW7 4RB. T: 020-8232 5050.

Off map. Station: Osterley/Isleworth.

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SIGHTSEEING Palace of Holyroodhouse The palace is the official residence of The Queen in Scotland. Visit the Mary, Queen of Scots’ Chambers. To 16 Oct: Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from the Queen’s Wardrobe. This exhibition marks the 90th birthday of The Queen through a display of fashionable dress, spanning the period from The Queen’s childhood in the 1930s to the present day. Highlights include evening and day wear from British couturiers Sir Norman Hartnell and Ian Thomas. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £12; child £7.20. www.royalcollection.org.uk.

Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley, then a 15-minute walk.

Ado about Nothing. William Shakespeare’s classic comedy comes alive with Elizabethan costumes, music and dance in the Waterloo Chamber.

From 17 Sep: Fashioning a Reign. Learn more about the Queen’s style in this fascinating exhibition of her iconic outfits and off-duty clothes. 23 Sep: Music from the Time of Shakespeare.

An ensemble of soprano, viol and lute from the Royal College of Music performs in the atmospheric St George’s Chapel. Charges for special events. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £20; child £11.70. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

Woburn Abbey and Gardens Set in a 3,000-acre deer park, this historic house, on the border of Buckinghamshire and Bedfordshire, has been home to the Earls and Dukes of Bedford for nearly 400 years and is currently occupied by the 15th Duke and his family. Tour the glorious house to find out more about its family history, art and antiques, then stroll around its Repton-inspired gardens. Abbey daily 11am-5pm; gardens, tearoom and park daily 10am-5pm. Abbey and gardens adult £16, child £8; gardens only adult £7.25, child £4.50. www.woburnabbey.co.uk. Woburn, Bedfordshire, MK17 9WA. T: 01525-290333. Off map Station: St Pancras to Flitwick.

Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle and a World Heritage Site, Stonehenge is more than 5,000 years old. With obscure Neolithic origins, it is perfectly aligned with the rising sun at the solstice. English Heritage members get exclusive early-morning tours. The visitor centre has an exhibition, shop and café. Daily 9.30am-7pm. Adult £15.50; child £9.30. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map.

Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.

Syon Park This stunning Palladian mansion set in parkland is home to the Duke of Northumberland. Don’t miss the incredible interiors, Grade I-listed landscape gardens and Great Conservatory. House Wed-Thur & Sun 11am-5pm; gardens daily 10.30am-5pm. House and garden adult £12; child £5; gardens only adult £7; child £3.50. www. syonpark.co.uk. Syon Park, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8JF. T: 020-8560 0882. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Syon Lane.

Waddesdon Manor Renaissance-style chateau built in the late19th century. Magnificent house and wine cellars, plus gardens and aviary. 2 Sep: Behind the Scenes Tours. 3-4 Sep: Chilli Festival Weekend. Sample spicy cheese, beer, chocolate, chutneys and oils and watch cooking demonstrations. 10-11 Sep: Wine Lovers’ Weekend. Try Rothschild classics from Bordeaux. House and grounds adult £20; child £10. Grounds only adult £10; child £5. House Wed-Fri noon-4pm; Sat-Sun 11am-4pm. Grounds Wed-Sun 10am-5pm. www.waddesdonmanor.org.

Near Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, HP18 0JH. T: 01296-653226 Off map. Station: Marylebone to Aylesbury.

Warwick Castle Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly experience with landscaped gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Don’t miss Merlin: The Dragon Tower and displays of medieval weaponry, as well as regular falconry displays. The dungeon, with actors, is a highlight. 8-9 Sep: The Luna Cinema. Watch Star Wars: The Force Awakens and Notting Hill outdoors.

24 Sep: Kingmakers Medieval Banquet. Dress up and dine like it’s 1471. Daily 10am-5pm. Castle adult £25.20; child £22.20; castle & dungeon adult £30.20; child £27.20. www.warwick-castle.com.

Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH. Off map.

Station: Warwick.

Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. Includes State Apartments furnished with art by Rembrandt, Rubens and Canaletto. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. 16-17 Sep: Much www.wheretraveler.com 33

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Building sights The capital is bursting with creativity this month as a series of design festivals are set to showcase the latest innovations in ideas and products, says Sam Rogg ‘London is the design capital of the world,’ declared The New York Times in 2012 following the ninth London Design Festival (17-25 Sep). This month, the annual event returns to museums, landmarks and public spaces across the city, so prepare for hundreds of events and installations showcasing the best design ideas and products from around the globe.

This year’s highlights include a 36m-long curved rectangular tube made from crosslaminated hardwood (Alison Brooks’ The Smile) that could change how we approach timber construction. Over in Notting Hill’s Victoria Gardens, you can glimpse the future of urban housing inside some Baboushka Boxes (dRMM) – stacked high like an inhabited sculpture.

At the Victoria and Albert Museum, you can take part in a wide range of activities, including talks and workshops, and see a stairwell turned into the performative Green Room (Glithero) that emulates the motions of a clock. Intrigued? Head into the museum’s

Tapestry Gallery and see a 20m-long undulating ribbon of 40,000 metallic elements scattering light around the gallery (Foil, Benjamin Hubert).

This month also sees the launch of the first London Design Biennale (7-27 Sep; p. 38), a three-week design extravaganza that takes over the entirety of Somerset House.

‘Where better to realise the inaugural Biennale than on the site of a former royal palace, with its neoclassical courtyard – one of the architectural highlights of London?’ asks director Dr Christopher Turner, who has

brought together more than 35 countries to create installations and exhibitions that respond to a single theme: ‘Utopia by Design’.

Among the many exhibits is a Lebanese street market celebrating Beirut culture, in which visitors can have a shave and drink pomegranate juice; a Utopian vision of Mexico in which residents are always eight minutes away from a tram (above); and a room created in which you can ‘feel’ music, designed by an Israeli team with the deaf in mind.

Children, meanwhile, will love a subterranean world of huge woven sea animals that you can sit in like Jonah in the whale (inset).

As if that’s not enough, in King’s Cross you can enjoy the critically acclaimed designjunction (22-25 Sep; thedesignjunction.co.uk), a leading exhibition for contemporary interior design and culture. Even non-designers will take something away from the commercial heart of the festival, 100% Design (21-24 Sep; 100percentdesign.co.uk ), thanks to this year’s immersive theme, ‘Experience’.

Mexico FREE City Design © Fernando Romero EnterprisE; Porky Hefer’s Monstera Deliciosa Volume I © Southern Guild

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

Museums Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for matchrelated closures. Self-guided: adult £20; child £10.

Legends: adult from £40; child from £20.75. Museum only: adult £8; child £5. www.arsenal.com/tours.

Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the Bank of England from its 1694 foundation to the present day, and find lots of fun activities for kids. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.bankof england.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House Charming 18th-century townhouse, the last remaining home of Franklin. Architectural tours Mon noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm, and 4.15pm; historical shows Wed-Sun noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3.15pm and 4.15pm. Tue advance booking required. Shows: adult £7; under 16s free. Mon guided tours: adult £3.50; under 16s free. www.benjaminfranklinhouse. org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405.

E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The British Museum Anti-Vietnam demonstrators at the Pentagon Building 1967 © Photo by Bernie Boston for The washington Post via getty images

Mexico FREE City Design © Fernando Romero EnterprisE; Porky Hefer’s Monstera Deliciosa Volume I © Southern Guild

For more information on the where pass london, visit wherepasslondon.com

Unrivalled collection of antiquities with huge displays and treasures from the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe, Ancient Iran and India. To 27 Nov: Sunken Cities: Egypt’s Lost Worlds.

Major exhibition showcasing ancient objects from two lost underwater cities. Sat-Thu 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

Clink Prison Museum

The Foundling Museum

A former prison dating back to 1144, this museum houses an exhibition about London’s penal past.

Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Britain’s home for abandoned children, founded in 1739 by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundling museum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

The Fan Museum Dedicated to the art of the fan with examples from the 12th century right up to the present day.

To 4 Sep: Fans of the Livery. Treasures from the collection of the Worshipful Company of Fan Makers. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm.

Adult £4; child £3; under sevens free. www.the fanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Fashion and Textile Museum Contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery.

To 4 Sep: Missoni Art Colour. The Italian fashion house in the context of fine art.

From 23 Sep: 1920s Jazz Age: Fashion & Photographs. A display of couture and ready-to-wear fashions from 1919 to 1929 (p. 38). Tue-Sat 11am6pm; Thur until 8pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Florence Nightingale Museum Museum about the work of this pioneering 19th-century health reformer. To 30 Oct: Take Me to Neverland: Peter Pan from Play to Book and Beyond. Early editions with classic illustrations of the story. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florencenightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 0374. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Geffrye Museum Historic 18th-century almshouses with rooms recreating English interiors from 1600 to today.

To 4 Sep: Swept under the Carpet?

Servants in London Households, 1600-2000. Explores the experiences of servants in middle-class homes.

Tue-Sun & bank holidays, 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.geffryemuseum.org.uk. 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 0207739 9893. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

The Guards Museum History, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards. A great insight into the Changing the Guard. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £6; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.

Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon that of the adventuring Victorian tea trader Frederick John Horniman.

To 18 Sep: Favela: Joy and Pain in the City. Photographs of favela life in Rio de Janeiro.

Daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman. ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872.

Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

Top Pick

The Cartoon Museum British cartoons and comic art. Mon-Sat 10.30am5.30pm; Sun noon-5.30pm. Adult £7; under 18s free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.

Charles Dickens Museum The former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. TueSun 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickens museum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Pass Partner Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ‘Legends’ tours with past stars of the game (tickets £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc. com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Churchill War Rooms Fortified basement where Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £18; child £9; under fives free. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Flower power Step back in time inside the Victoria and Albert Museum this month and experience the world as it was during the late 1960s. You Say You Want a Revolution? Records and Rebels 1966-1970 (from 10 Sep; p. 38) explores the significance of those rebellious years, with objects that defined the counterculture, including photography, music, design, film, fashion and performance. Highlights include a recreated ‘swinging’ Carnaby Street, an Apollo 8 space suit and outfits worn by famous musicians such as Mick Jagger. Relive the thrill of Woodstock and the fight for civil rights. It’s almost 50 years since The Beatles released Revolution but the lyrics – ‘we all want to change the world’ – still ring true. www.wheretraveler.com 35

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES House of Illustration

Jewish Museum

London Transport Museum

The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration, founded by Sir Quentin Blake. To 2 Oct: The BFG in Pictures. Never-before-seen Quentin Blake illustrations for Roald Dahl’s classic story. Adult £7; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseofillustration. org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 020-3696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today. To 16 Oct: Jukebox, Jewkbox! A Century on Shellac and Vinyl. Features records that changed lives and the technology that made it happen.

Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 0207284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Museum exploring the city’s transport network.

The new permanent gallery London By Design reveals how London has become a world leader in transport design. Find out how design is encountered in our everyday journeys and how this has evolved over the last century. Mon-Thur & Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £17; child free. www.ltmuseum. co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 0207379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Household Cavalry Museum Explore the work of the Queen’s mounted guard and tour a working stables. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard daily on Horse Guard Parade at 11am; Sun 10am plus inspection at 4pm. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk.

Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Imperial War Museum Huge displays of conflicts, particularly those that involve Britain and the Commonwealth.

To 25 Sep: Visions of War: Above and Below. Artwork that captured World War II from the sky. To 8 Jan: Real to Reel: A Century of War Movies. A look at iconic war films. Daily 10am6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum of his life and work. To 2 Oct: Seven Halts on the Somme. Coinciding with the centenary of the Battle of the Somme, this exhibition explores the ways in which remembrance evolves.

Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £7; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park, W14 8LZ. T: 0207602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the renowned film series. It is the largest display of its kind ever staged in London. Mon-Fri & Sun 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising Fascinating insight into how everyday lives have changed over the past 200 years through the evolution of consumer brands. Exhibits include toys, magazines, newspapers, technology, travel, fashion and design. The Time Tunnel transports visitors through wars and coronations, the coming of cinema, radio and TV and the dramatic rise of branding. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm.

Adult £7.50; child £3. www.museumofbrands.com.

111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611. Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove.

Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum, covering London’s history from pre-Roman times to the present day. 3-4 Sep: The Great Fire Anniversary Weekend Family Festival. Free activities including object handling, Minecraft and storytelling.

To 18 Sep: Stomping Grounds: Photographs by Dick Scott-Stewart. London’s eclectic social scene in the late 1970s and early 1980s.

To 17 Apr: Fire! Fire!. Discover London before, during and after the Great Fire of 1666 in an interactive exhibition marking the 350th anniversary of the disaster. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org. uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

National Maritime Museum

Express yourself Immerse yourself in the colourful spontaneity of Abstract Expressionism at the Royal Academy of Arts (from 24 Sep; p. 40) – the first major survey of the post–World War II art movement since 1959. Before abstract expressionism, Paris reigned as the centre of the Western art world. But with free jazz and the Beat Generation came a new ‘school’ of art in the 1940s and before long New York City was the capital of creativity, attracting radical artists such as Jackson Pollock, Mark Rothko and Arshile Gorky (above). Experience the powerful impact these iconic artists had on the art world, while discovering lesser-known figures, including the female artists who struggled for acceptance in the movement’s heyday.

Spread over several sites, which were originally part of a 19th-century school for seafarers’ children. Includes the Maritime Galleries, housing Captain Cook’s ship Endeavour, Nelson’s Trafalgar uniform, plus The Great Map, a huge interactive world map revealing stories from maritime history.

The £35m Sammy Ofer Wing holds special exhibitions. Mon-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk.

Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map.

Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Natural History Museum Exhibits about nature’s many wonders.

To 11 Sep: Sensational Butterflies.

Walk among hundreds of free-flying moths and butterflies from around the world. To 6 Nov: Colour and Vision. Discover how the entwined histories of colour and vision have filled the natural world with the vibrant hues we see today. Daily 10am-5.50pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Arshile Gorky’s Water of the Flowery Mill, 1944 © The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Art Resource/Scala, Florence

Museum of London Docklands The intriguing history of the meandering River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands. Displays including London, Sugar & Slavery, charting the history of the transatlantic slave trade and its links to the city. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ docklands. No. 1 Warehouse, West India Quay, E14 4AL. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Science Museum

Somerset House

Enjoy changing exhibitions, an IMAX 3D cinema and more. In the permanent gallery, Information Age, you can see rare exhibits including the BBC’s first radio transmitter 2LO. To 4 Sep: Leonardo da Vinci: The Mechanics of Genius. See 40 historical models of the Renaissance man’s incredible inventions including flying machines, diving equipment and weapons.

To 15 Sep: Beyond the Lab: The DIY Science Revolution. Explore the innovative ways in which the public are playing a greater role in ground-breaking scientific research. To 15 Jan: Wounded: Conflict, Casualties and Care. Display commemorating the centenary of the Battle of the Somme and the medical and human impact of wounding during and beyond World War I. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk.

Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0870-870 4868. F4.

Station: South Kensington.

This Thameside neo-classical 18th-century building houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants. 7-27 Sep: London Design Biennale. Thirty-five nations from six continents present spectacular installations and commissioned works exploring the theme ‘Utopia

by Design’ (p. 34). 9-25 Sep: The Singing Bridge by Claudia Molitor. Collect a headset and embark on a musical experience that weaves you along Waterloo Bridge and its surrounding paths. Galleries daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.

The architect Soane’s former home, a Regency townhouse left to the nation in 1837 as a public museum, now houses a gem of a collection including Hogarth paintings. To 8 Oct: ‘The CloudCapped Towers’: Shakespeare in Soane’s Architectural Imagination. This unique display to mark the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare’s death examines the influence the playwright had on the life and work of Soane. Museum tours daily; times vary. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm. Closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

The home of Twinings since 1706, where visitors can get a taste of this 300-year history at the company’s in-store museum plus enjoy tea tasting sessions. Mon-Fri 9.30am7.30pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 10.30am4.30pm. Admission free. www.twinings. co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 0207353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

Galleries Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with exhibitions There are over 850 art and a performance space. galleries in London that offer free To 4 Sep: Ragnar admission Kjartansson. Solo exhibition of the

V&A Museum of Childhood National collection of childhood objects. To 9 Oct: Clangers, Bagpuss & Co. Discover the world of Smallfilms, with original puppets, sets and filming equipment. To 8 Jan: Tales. Twelve images by photographer Sonya Hurtado exploring the imaginary world of childhood. Daily 10am5.45pm. Admission free. www.museumofchildhood. org.uk. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

Victoria and Albert Museum Commonly called the V&A. Contains a collection of fine and applied arts, and fashion through the ages.

From 10 Sep: You Say You Want a Revolution?

Records and Rebels 1966-1970. Explore the significance and impact of the late 1960s, expressed through music, fashion, film, design and political activism (p. 35). To 6 Nov: Engineering the World: Ove Arup and the Philosophy of Total Design. Part of the Engineering Season, this display explores the work of Ove Arup.

To 12 Mar: Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear.

Garments and accessories for men and women together with photographs and film, advertisements and packaging revealing the changing concepts of the ideal body. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk.

Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5.

Station: South Kensington.

The Wallace Collection

All that jazz Is there anything more glamorous than 1920s fashion, with its fringed flapper dresses, beaded eveningwear, silk pyjamas and velvet capes? In 1920s Jazz Age – Fashion & Photographs (from 23 Sep; p. 35) at the Fashion and Textile Museum, you can see more than 150 garments including haute couture clothing. Get a glimpse of the excesses of the Roaring Twenties, as captured in colourful illustrations by Gordon Conway and photos by Man Ray and Cecil Beaton.

Trophies, memorabilia and fashions plus a collection of kit and artefacts from key players, such as Serena Williams and Novak Djokovic.

To 20 Mar 2017: Reinventing the Racket. Ongoing fun-packed exhibition of the museum’s most iconic and unusual rackets, featuring the old, the new and the entirely unique. Daily 10am-5pm.

Museum £13, child £8; museum and tour £24, child £15. Family offer: one free child to every full price adult until 30 Sep. www.wimbledon.com/museum.

All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields/ Tooting Broadway, then bus 493.

The former Wallace family home displays its collection of Rococo art. The Great Gallery houses some masterpieces by Velázquez and Rubens.

From 15 Sep: The Middle – Tom Ellis. Figurative paintings are paired with furniture. Daily 10am-5pm.

Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Public venue housing more than 1,500 fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body.

From 15 Sep: Bedlam: The Asylum and Beyond.

Uncover diverse and often contradictory ideas surrounding mental illness. To 16 Oct: States of Mind: Tracing the Edges of Consciousness. Explores the conscious experience from different perspectives.

Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcome collection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

internationally acclaimed Icelandic artist, which brings together live performance, music, film, painting, sculpture and drawing.

From 29 Sep: Bedwyr Williams: The Gulch.

Explore a succession of surreal and theatrically staged scenes on a journey conjured by one of the contemporary art world’s most exciting and innovative artists (p. 40). To 16 Oct: Designing for a Living City. Exhibition tracing the controversial design of a residential development. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. Mon-Sat 9am11pm; Sun noon-11pm; bank holidays noon-11pm. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

Ben Uri Gallery The London Jewish Museum of Art houses more than 1,000 works. From 16 Sep: Yalta 1945. Works

by Vitaly Komar and Alexander Melamid. Mon 1pm-5.30pm; Tue-Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat & Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.benuri.org.uk.

108a Boundary Rd, off Abbey Rd, NW8 0RH. T: 0207604 3991. Off map. Station: Kilburn High Road.

The Courtauld Gallery Important European art collection, plus temporary exhibitions, housed in beautiful Somerset House.

To 25 Sep: Regarding Trees. A display of drawings, ranging from the early-16th century to the mid-19th century, which explores artists’ fascination with trees. To 11 Sep: Georgiana Houghton: Spirit Drawings. Visions of the Victorian medium. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £9; child free. www.courtauld. ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.

Dulwich Picture Gallery England’s first public art gallery, founded in 1811, holds one of the finest collections of Old Masters in the UK. The building was designed by 19th-century architect Sir John Soane. 6-11 Sep: Exodus. A new dance inspired by Winifred Knights’ The Deluge.

To 18 Sep: Winifred Knights (1899-1947). Works by one of the most original, pioneering British artists of the first half of the 20th century. To 5 Mar: Dutch and Flemish Masterpieces. A series of displays that delves deeper into four major artists in the gallery’s collection: Van Dyck, Dou, Rubens and Rembrandt. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-5pm; closed bank holidays. Adult £7; child free; charges for special exhibitions. www.dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk.

Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. T: 020-8693 5354. Off map.

Station: West Dulwich/North Dulwich.

Dolly Sisters with Headdress, 1923, by James Abbe Courtesy of Private Collection © James Abbe Archive

Sir John Soane’s Museum

Twinings Museum

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours

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Fall in love with Wimbledon Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites?

Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit.

Supported by

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New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:30pm Nearest Underground: SouthďŹ elds The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE

T: 020 8946 6131 | wimbledon.com/museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Guildhall Art Gallery A collection of art from 1670 to the present day.

At the new Heritage Gallery, you can see treasures including William Shakespeare’s First Folio.

From 20 Sep: Victorians Decoded: Art and Telegraphy. Discover the impact of telegraphy on the artistic imagination and wider social consciousness in the 19th century. To 20 Nov: Visscher Redrawn: 1616-2016. Visscher’s famous image of medieval London alongside Robin Reynolds’ modern version. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700.

D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts) Galleries, a book shop, a bar and cinemas.

To 4 Sep: Judy Blame: Never Again.

Major solo exhibition by the accessories designer, art director and fashion stylist Judy Blame.

From 21 Sep: James Richards: Requests and Antisongs. New and recent works which continue the artist’s ongoing exploration of collage, installation and sound. To 25 Sep: Detroit: Techno City. A studied look at the evolution and subsequent dispersion of Detroit Techno music. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun 11am6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Adult £1; child free. www.ica. org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus/Charing Cross.

The National Gallery One of the world’s great galleries, with works by masters from Monet to Leonardo da Vinci. Regular guided tours, talks and workshops; music from students of Royal College of Music Fris 6pm-7pm.

To 4 Sep: Painters’ Paintings: From Freud to Van Dyck. Examine the connections between artists and the paintings they owned in a major display spanning over 500 years of art history.

From 28 Sep: Maíno’s Adorations: Heaven on Earth. Experience two outstanding masterpieces by the Spanish painter, on display in the UK for the first time. To 30 Oct: George Shaw: My Back to Nature. The former Turner Prize-nominee unveils the culmination of his two-year studio residency at the gallery. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery British history told through portraiture.

To 4 Sep: BP Portrait Award 2016.

Prestigious international exhibition of contemporary portraits. To 23 Oct: William Eggleston Portraits.

One hundred works by the pioneering American photographer from the 1960s to the present day, including never-before-seen vintage black and white prints. Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular Late Shift special events).

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

National Theatre Exhibitions in the world-famous drama venue.

Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm (on days when performances are taking place).

Admission free. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk.

Lyttelton Exhibition Space, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Newport Street Gallery Damien Hirst’s gallery featuring work from his collection. To 16 Oct: Now. Solo exhibition of work

by American artist Jeff Koons spanning 35 years.

It includes paintings and sculptures. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.newportstreet gallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020-3141 9320. G8. Station: Vauxhall/Lambeth North.

The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography.

To 25 Sep: Terence Donovan: Speed of Light. A compelling mix of vintage material and previously unpublished works, plus groundbreaking films of collaborations with musicians Robert Palmer and Malcolm McLaren.

To 25 Sep: What Soho Wore. Display mapping the hidden cultural history of Soho through people’s photography and stories.

From 29 Sep: Julie Cockburn. Photos are reimagined through cutting, embroidering and collaging. Mon-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £3. www.thephotographers gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 0207087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Queen’s Gallery Treasures from the Royal Collection. To 9 Oct: Maria Merian’s Butterflies. Beautiful works by the popular artist and entomologist over 300 years after they were made. To 9 Oct: Scottish Artists 1750-1900: From Caledonia to the Continent. More than 80 artworks collected by monarchs since George III, including pieces by celebrated artists Allan Ramsay and Sir David Wilkie. To 25 Sep daily 9.30am-5.30pm. From 26 Sep daily 10am-5.30pm.

Adult £10.30; child £5.30. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.

Rivington Place Cutting-edge art gallery and cultural space dedicated to ethnically diverse visual arts from the organisations Iniva and Autograph ABP. To 24 Sep: Miss Black and Beautiful.

The first major exhibition of photographs by the late Raphael Albert, cultural promoter and photographer of black beauty pageants in west London from the late 1960s to the 1980s.

Tue-Fri 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm; Sat noon6pm. Admission free. www.rivingtonplace.org.

Rivington St, EC2A 3BA. T: 020-7749 1240. C11.

Station: Old Street.

Royal Academy of Arts

‘People take a sharp intake of breath when I say that I have a show in the Curve gallery.

It’s a challenging space, they say,’ explains Welsh artist Bedwyr Williams ahead of his much-anticipated show The Gulch at the Barbican (from 29 Sep; p. 38). ‘As someone who likes to lead the viewer on a linear-ish merry dance, this challenging space is perfect.’ For the exhibition, Williams has transformed the 90m-long gallery into a series of theatrical installations designed to transport you and disorient you, from a pair of singing shoes to a depressed hypnotist. Subversive, witty and always absurd, Williams’ work combines performance, sculpture, painting and video – so prepare for a sensory overload. Still need convincing? ‘There’s a talking goat in it,’ Williams says.

Saatchi Gallery Groundbreaking contemporary art in a renovated Georgian building, covering 70,000 square feet.

To 4 Sep: Exhibitionism: The Rolling Stones. Huge immersive show curated by the band with nine galleries featuring over 500 original Stones’ artefacts and interactive elements.

15-18 Sep: START Art Fair. Discover new artistic talent across all three floors of the gallery. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

flexture © bedwyr williams

Weird and wonderful

Eighteenth-century apartments with works in all media, including architecture.

From 24 Sep: Abstract Expressionism.

Fascinating display revealing the full breadth of an unparalleled period in American art (p. 36).

To 2 Oct: David Hockney RA: 82 Portraits and 1 Still-life. This remarkable new body of work offers an intimate snapshot of the Los Angeles art world and the people who have crossed the British artist’s path. Fri 10am-10pm; Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; check for regular special events and free lunchtime concerts. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk.

6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/ Green Park.

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A respected arts space in Kensington Gardens displaying modern and contemporary work.

To 11 Sep: Alex Katz. Recent works by the renowned American painter.

To 9 Oct: Serpentine Pavilion and Summer Houses 2016. This year’s temporary structure is designed

by Bjarke Ingels Group (BIG) and resembles an ‘unzipped wall’. By day it houses a café and there are free family activities and at night it becomes a space for performances by artists, writers and musicians. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegalleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

VISIT THE HOME OF BRITISH ART

Serpentine Sackler Gallery

© Lee Mawdsley

Previously The Magazine Building, this respected arts space near the Serpentine Gallery was designed by the renowned architect Zaha Hadid.

To 11 Sep: Etel Adnan: The Weight of the World. Works by Lebanese painter and writer, including paintings, drawings, poetry, film and tapestry. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentinegallery.org. West Carriage Drive, Kensington Gardens, W2 2AR. T: 020-7402 6075.

E4. Station: South Kensington.

Tate Britain Traditional and contemporary British art.

To 25 Sep: Painting with Light. Major exhibition celebrating the spirited conversation between early photography and British art.

From 27 Sep: Turner Prize. Discover the four artists shortlisted for this year’s award.

To 9 Oct: Pablo Bronstein: Historical Dances in an Antique Setting. The Buenos Aires-born artist makes a site-specific work for the gallery. Daily 9.45am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

F E AT U R I N G A R T WO R K S F R O M T U R N E R , CO N S TA B L E , B ACO N , F R E U D, HOCKNEY & HIRST

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MILLBANK PIMLICO

Separated by a wall & 200 years are the homes of two musicians who chose London & changed music.

Tate Modern International modern art in the recently transformed Bankside Power Station, plus regular performances and installations at The Tanks.

To 30 Oct: Georgia O’Keeffe. Stunning exhibition bringing together some of the artist’s most important works, including the most expensive painting by a female artist ever sold at auction.

To 6 Nov: Bhupen Khakhar. Posthumous exploration of the modern Indian artist’s career, featuring work from collections around the world.

Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm.

Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

This September, we celebrate the 50th anniversary of Jimi Hendrix’s arrival in London and his emergence as a rock’n’roll superstar with a series of unmissable events.

Go to handelhendrix.org or call us on 020 7495 1685 to find out more and plan your visit.

Handel House remains open as usual!

Whitechapel Gallery This influential East End gallery showcases a range of contemporary art. The gallery has premiered world-class artists over the years, including Pablo Picasso and Frida Kahlo.

To 11 Sep: Keith Sonnier: Light Works.

See wonderful 1960s neon installations transform the 19th-century architecture of the gallery.

From 21 Sep: William Kentridge: Thick Time.

Six large-scale installations by the South African artist who is is renowned for his expressionist drawings and films exploring colonialism.

To 2 Oct: Zeyno Pekünlü and The Institute for New Feeling – Artists’ Film International. Explore the impact of technology in our lives. Tue-Wed & FriSun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.whitechapel. org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 0207522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

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photo credit: © Barrie Wentzell

flexture © bedwyr williams

TATE BRITAIN

Serpentine Gallery

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Above: Sir Ian McKellen and Sir Patrick Stewart in No Man’s Land Below: Owen Teale

Friends, reunited Acting greats Sir Ian McKellen and Sir Patrick Stewart are set to be reunited once again in a play that is returning to Wyndham’s Theatre following a UK tour.

Written in 1974 by the late playwright Harold Pinter, No Man’s Land (from 8 Sep) was originally performed at The Old Vic a year later, then at Wyndham’s Theatre – and it has since been a hit on Broadway and British television.

McKellen says: ‘We’re so excited to be playing at Wyndham’s Theatre. It’s the theatre where the original production of No Man’s Land transferred after its premiere at The Old Vic.’ Close friends McKellen and Stewart met on stage in Tom Stoppard’s play Every Good Boy Deserves Favour in 1977, and went on to perform alongside one another in Samuel Beckett’s Waiting for Godot seven years ago and the X-Men film franchise. No doubt their friendship will shine through in

their latest performance by the director Sean Mathias, who has an odd connection to one of the stars: he co-owns the east London pub, The Grapes, with Sir Ian McKellen.

Mathias says: ‘I was at the opening night of No Man’s Land at The Old Vic. Seeing John Gielgud and Ralph Richardson was extraordinary. Sitting behind me was Katharine Hepburn. It’s a night I’ll never forget.’

Patrick is a big fan of the play: ‘I saw No Man’s Land three times in one week at Wyndham’s; I would have seen it again if I’d had the money. I was completely swept away by the play and the performances, and I made a silent promise to myself that one day I would be in this play. We had a great time playing it in the States, but it’s very exciting to be bringing this exquisite London play to a London audience. The response to it will be very different to that on Broadway; the cricket references will have meaning, for one thing.’

Set in a grand house in leafy Hampstead in north London, No Man’s Land is a slowmoving comical drama. Hirst (Stewart), a distinguished poet and an alcoholic who is in his sixties, meets a less successful poet of a similar age called Spooner (McKellen) in a pub and invites him into his home.

Back at the house Spooner meets Hirst’s younger housekeeper, Foster – played by Damien Molony – and his servant Briggs, played by Owen Teale. Both men, who are in their thirties, view Spooner as an intruder.

As Hirst becomes increasingly drunk he mistakes Spooner for an old acquaintance.

Spooner plays along and the two men swap far-fetched tales – with comical results.

Despite the humour, the play still has some bleak moments, as it explores the theme of dependency in old age – Spooner, an odd jobs man, is relying on Hirst for work while Hirst needs his new pal for inspiration because he is unable to write more poetry.

Without the other, both, it seems, are stuck in no man’s land.

For full listing, turn to p. 48

sir Ian mckellen and sir patrick stewart © perou; owen teale courtesy of no man’s land

For star power, watch this West End revival which brings together two famous faces, says Sarah Riches

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ENTERTAINMENT T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81. Please check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

Funny Girl Award-winning Sheridan Smith (Legally Blonde and Into the Woods) plays the lead in this true story about Fanny, a music hall singer who finds fame on Broadway before falling in love with gambler Nicky. Featuring songs such as Don’t Rain On My Parade. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £15-£125. www.funnygirlthemusical.co.uk.

Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Go-Between Michael Crawford (Phantom of the Opera, The Wizard of Oz) stars in this musical about an elderly man who unintentionally delves into his past. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50£87.50. www.nimaxtheatres.com. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Piccadilly Circus.

Guys and Dolls

Nearly 200 years after her death, Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice returns to Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre (2-17 Sep; p. 48). Simon Reade has adapted the romantic comedy, which was performed at the theatre in 2013. Reade says: ‘There are expectations when you are working with familiar material such as Pride and Prejudice, but it’s about reinventing it, telling a familiar story in an unfamiliar way. While our favourite lines and your favourite characters will be there, you’ll hear it as if for the first time.’ Elizabeth Bennet (Felicity Montagu from Bridget Jones’ Diary) refuses to marry just because she is expected to. But will her arrogant, rich and dashing new neighbour change her mind?

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics

by Tim Rice and a real magic carpet. Just how do they do that? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm.

Tickets £47.25-£99.75. www.aladdinthemusical. co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

American Idiot Even if you’re not that into Green Day you’ll still enjoy this Tony and Grammy Award-winning rock musical. Fans meanwhile will be transported to the 90s with Boulevard of Broken Dreams, Wake Me Up When September Ends and the title track. Tue-Sat 8pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 6pm. Tickets £25.90£65.90. www.artstheatrewestend.co.uk. Arts Theatre, 6-7 Great Newport St, WC2H 7JB. T: 020-7836 8463. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Beautiful – The Carole King Musical Musical about the early life and career of the award-winning singer-songwriter. Mon & WedSat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15£127.50. www.beautifulmusical.co.uk. Aldwych Theatre, 49 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn/ Charing Cross.

The Bodyguard This musical features soul singer Beverley Knight as Rachel, a singer who falls in love with her bodyguard after he’s hired to protect her from a stalker. Featuring Whitney Houston’s greatest hits.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm, Wed & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.50£95. www.dominiontheatre.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Book of Mormon This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Winner of four Olivier Awards. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (no 2.30pm show 7 & 21 Sep). Tickets £39.75-£202.25. www.bookof mormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7.

Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Charlie and the Chocolate Factory A musical version of Roald Dahl’s children’s tale about an ordinary boy and an extraordinary confectioner.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£94. www.charlieandthechocolate factory.com. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

In the Heights A Tony Award-winning musical about young love, set on the mean streets of Washington Heights in New York. Mon-Tue & Thur-Fri 8pm; Tue 3pm; Sat 8.30pm; Sun 6pm. Tickets £22.50£59.50. www.intheheightslondon.com. King’s Cross Theatre, Corner of King’s Boulevard and Goods Way, N1C 4UR. T: 0844-871 7604. Off map.

Station: King’s Cross.

Jersey Boys The hit Olivier Award-winning story of US pop sensations Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons.

Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Tue & Sat 3pm; Sun 5pm. Tickets £24.50-£114. www.jerseyboyslondon.com.

Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Kinky Boots Fun musical about a shoe factory that reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in post-revolutionary France (p. 46).

Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £12.50-£127.25. www.lesmis.com.

Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Have an Arabian night with the musical Aladdin, which brings to life the Disney film

PRIDE AND PREJUDICE © JOHAN PERSSON; ALADDIN IMAGE COURTESY OF ALADDIN

A class act

Fifties musical about a gambler and his nightclubsinger fiancée, with well-known numbers including Sit Down You’re Rocking the Boat and My Time of Day. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £16.50-£97. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk.

Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

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ENTERTAINMENT Stomp An award-winning fusion of theatre, dance, comedy and rhythmic percussion. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; occasional Weds. Tickets £26-£57.50. www.stomplondon. co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Top Pick

Sunny Afternoon Musical about the rise to stardom of The Kinks, with music and lyrics by Ray Davies (p. 48). Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£89.50. www.sunnyafternoonthemusical.com.

Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Three Penny Opera A musical set in London as the capital scrubs up in time for the Queen’s coronation. Contains strong language. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£50. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8.

Station: Waterloo.

Thriller Live

The Alchemist (from 2 Sep), a fast-paced farce first performed in 1610, is brought back to life at the Barbican after a stint in Stratford-upon-Avon. Lovewit flees London’s plague, leaving his townhouse with his trusted butler Jeremy. But all does not go according to plan. Director Polly Findlay says: ‘The play’s comic energy stems from the ruthless pursuit of wealth – it’s a radical piece of contemporary playwriting.’

Assistant director Josh Roche says: ‘A consultant of the magician Derren Brown came to rehearsals. Having someone deduce intimate details about you, drawn from your posture, clothing or attitude, was astounding. It’s fascinating seeing how Derren Brown’s skills are written into a play from 1610.’ Grab tickets soon – they’re a steal.

Disney’s The Lion King

Matilda the Musical

Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry.

Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £37.70-£127.70. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Fantastic award-winning show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book, about a girl with magic powers and a very evil headmistress. The cast comprises members of the RSC. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm.

Tickets £20-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com.

Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of Swedish pop group ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island about a young woman who is about to get married. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm.

Tickets £15-£97.50. www.mamma-mia.com.

Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115.

E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Mandela Trilogy To 3 Sep: Part opera, part concert,

this tells the life of Nelson Mandela from tribal initiation rites to being jailed on Robben Island and becoming South Africa’s leader. A band plays jazz, swing and indigenous Xhosa folk. 7.30pm.

Tickets £15-£60. www.mandelatrilogy.com. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Marco Polo, An Untold Love Story To 4 Sep: A love story set in 13th-century Asia, about the Venetian explorer Marco Polo who travels the world and meets Princess Kogajin. But can he prove he is a worthy suitor? Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Fri-Sun 2.30pm.

Tickets £40-£80. www.marcopolo-newmusical.com.

Shaw Theatre, Hotel Pullman Hotel London St Pancras, 100-110 Euston Rd, NW1 2AJ. T: 0844248 5075. C7. Station: Euston/King’s Cross.

Motown the Musical Feel-good show based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson and The Jackson 5, Stevie Wonder and more. By the end of the night you’ll be Dancing in the Street. MonSat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £19.50£145. www.shaftesburytheatre.com.

Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8.

Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £21.50-£95. www.the phantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Watch London’s longest-running musical Les Misérables at the Queen’s Theatre (p. 44)

Wicked the Musical The brilliant back story of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. 27 Sep 10th birthday performance. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£125. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

PLAYS The Alchemist From 2 Sep: Fast-paced farce, first performed in 1610. Times vary. Tickets £10-£55. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Breakfast at Tiffany’s Truman Capote’s classic tale of Holly Golightly becomes a stage play with music, starring the singer Pixie Lott as Holly. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£98. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 0207930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time Adaptation of Mark Haddon’s novel about a boy with Asperger syndrome who uncovers more than expected when investigating a local mystery. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £18-£92.50. www.curiousonstage.com. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130.

E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/ Leicester Square.

The Entertainer A drama about a disillusioned middle-aged man. It stars Kenneth Branagh as Archie Rice, a failing music hall performer, who

THE ALCHEMIST © HELEN MAYBANKS; LES MISÉRABLES IMAGE COURTESY OF LES MISÉRABLES

Comedy of errors

Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career with a string of popular hits.

Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 4pm & 8pm; Sun 3.30pm & 7.30pm. To 19 Sep tickets £27.50-£87.50.

From 20 Sep tickets £29.50-£85. www.thriller live.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

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ENTERTAINMENT

A spooky story (prepare to scream) adapted from Susan Hill’s novel about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm.

Tickets £19.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack.com.

Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Macbeth

Yerma

Shakespeare’s classic tale about a man who believes he will become king with tragic consequences. Please check for times. Tickets £5£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Mousetrap

Oh what a night!

The BBC Proms ends with a bang as Last Night of the Proms (10 Sep; p. 52) takes over Hyde Park. American pop rock band, Frankie Valli (above) and the Four Seasons, headline the show. Over five decades, the group has sold more than 100 million records and inspired the Jersey Boys musical. Other stars on the bill include ABC, All Saints and Rick Astley. There’s also classical sounds from flautist James Galway, plus musical magic from Tim Minchin and the cast of Matilda.

It promises to be a spectacular show. is discontented with his bickering family, weak marriage and his daughter’s broken engagement.

Mon-Sat 7.30pm, Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £35£95. www.nimaxtheatres.com. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Thur-Sat 7pm; Sat 1pm; Sun 1pm & 6pm. Tickets £55-£65. www.faulty towers-uk.com. The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0845154 4145. E8. Station: Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8.

Station: Holborn.

Good Canary From 16 Sep: Oscar-nominee John

Malkovich makes his London theatre directing debut in this play about an author on the cusp of a publishing deal which threatens his wife’s mental health (p. 50). www.rosetheatrekingston. org. 24-26 High St, Kingston, KT1 1HL. T: 020-8174 0090. Off map. Station: Kingston.

Imogen From 11 Sep: Imogen is suffocated by her father’s aggression, in this play set in London, 2016, where men, gangs and violence rule the streets. Please check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Woman in Black

mortally ill, goes to the Holy Land to be cured by a healer by the name of Jesus. Please check for times. Tickets £10-£62. www.shakespeares globe.com. Sam Wanamaker Theatre, Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

2-17 Sep: Roman Emperor Tiberius Caesar,

A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Tue 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £18.50-£67.50. www.themousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

946 To 11 Sep: Set on the coast in Devon in 1944, this romantic, political drama uses music and puppetry to tell the story of residents who were told to leave their homes to accommodate American soldiers. Based on a true story. Please check for times. Tickets £5-£45. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Sam Wanamaker Theatre, Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

No Man’s Land From 8 Sep: Sir Ian McKellen and Sir Patrick Stewart reunite in this slow-moving comical drama (p. 42). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £70£150. www.wyndhamstheatre.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844482 5120. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Play That Goes Wrong Slapstick comedy about a college drama society staging a 1920s murder mystery who struggle to make it to the final curtain. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20£67.50. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Pride and Prejudice 2-17 Sep: Elizabeth Bennet refuses to marry just because she is expected to in this classic Jane Austen romantic comedy (p. 44). MonSat 7.45pm; Thur 2.15pm. Tickets £23-£60. www.openairtheatre.com. Open Air Theatre, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242.

C6. Station: Baker Street.

The Two Gentlemen of Verona From 20 Sep: Love wasn’t easy,

even back in William Shakespeare’s time, but this fun production, which follows an elopement, is set in the modern-day 21st century with songs, romance and chaos.

Please check for times. Tickets £10-£62. www.shakespeares globe.com. Sam Wanamaker Theatre, Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919.

E10. Station: Blackfriars/ London Bridge.

To 24 Sep: A contemporary version of Lorca’s masterpiece about a woman desperate to become a mother. British actress Billie Piper excels as the lead. Mon-Sat 7.30pm (except 12 & 19 Sep); Wed & Sat 2.30pm (except 8 Sep). Tickets £10-£35. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 6 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES Brain Waves: Shake, Rattle and Roll From 21 Sep: Scientists from Birkbeck University’s Baby Lab have teamed up with the children’s theatre director Sarah Argent to create a lively show inspired by their latest research. Times vary.

Tickets £9. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

Emily Rising From 10 Sep: One morning Emily wakes up to realise her feet can’t touch the ground. Imagine a life where you sleep upside down on the ceiling and fly above the playground! For over sevens. Adult £12; child £10. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

Jason and the Argonauts From 24 Sep: A boy banished as a baby is now

back to claim his rightful throne. Along the way he is faced with some fearsome challenges – but can he overcome them? Times vary. Tickets £10. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Let’s Fly From 16 Sep: A girl who knows how to fly, and has

some fun with her secret power. Suitable for two to six year olds. Adult £10; child £8. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Cadogan Hall Classical events hall. 5 Sep: BBC Proms Proms.

An evening of chamber music. 15 Sep:

Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. An opera gala; Seville Please highlights include The Barber of Seville. check for full programme, times and ticket prices. www.cadoganhall.com.

5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Celebrate the music of The Kinks in the musical Sunny Afternoon (p. 46)

FRANKIE VALLI © DEAN EGNATER; SUNNY AFTERNOON © KEVIN CUMMINS

The Inn at Lydda

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FRANKIE VALLI © DEAN EGNATER; SUNNY AFTERNOON © KEVIN CUMMINS

ENTERTAINMENT Royal Albert Hall London’s premiere music hall. For BBC Proms see p. 52. 11 Sep: Songs of Praise – The Big Sing.

Join the 5,000-strong congregation to sing old and new hymns. 19 Sep: RPO 70th Birthday Concert. The orchestra plays pieces from Rossini, Bruch, Schumann and Stravinsky. 20 Sep: Classic FM Presents Classic FM Live! The violinist Maxim Vengerov performs music by Massenet and Brahms alongside the Academy of St Martin in the Fields. 24 Sep: Verdi –Requiem. Three distinguished choirs come together for this choral masterpiece.

7.30pm. Tickets £38.20-£52.99. www.royalalbert hall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. South Kensington.

Thursday 15th September 2016

Featuring LOUISE DEARMAN

AT THE SOUTHBANK CENTRE

CONCERT ORCHESTRA

JULIAN OVENDEN & EMMA KINGSTON

ROYAL FESTIVAL HALL

0844 875 0073 - southbankcentre.co.uk

Buy the book Oscar-nominee John Malkovich makes his London theatre directing debut in Good Canary at the Rose Theatre Kingston (from 16 Sep; p. 48). The criticallyacclaimed actor, director and producer impressed audiences in Mexico City and Paris with the play, which is a dark comedy set in New York. After the success of his first novel, Jack is close to clinching a multi-million-dollar publishing deal – but at what cost? Will his wife, Annie, who suffers from addiction and mental illness, cope in the public eye?

St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free classical recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in the-Fields The historic church hosts an extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals (p.

29). 1 Sep: Glory of the Baroque by Candlelight. Played by the Thames Chamber Orchestra. 3 Sep: Vivaldi Four Seasons by Candlelight. Also featuring the music of Bach and Mozart. 15 Sep: Rachmaninov Vespers by Candlelight. Acapella concert. 30 Sep: Mozart and Handel by Candlelight. www.smitf.org.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ.T: 020-7766 1100. E8.

Station: Charing Cross.

JOHN MALKOVICH © ISTOCK

From STAGE to SILVER SCREEN With the ROYAL PHILHARMONIC

- YOUNGER THAN SPRINGTIME - SOMETHING WONDERFUL - SOLILOQUY

SOME ENCHANTED EVENING - PEOPLE WILL SAY WE’RE IN LOVE -

THE SOUND OF MUSIC - OH WHAT A BEAUTIFUL MORNING - EDELWEISS

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CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD

YOU’LL FEEL THE EARTH MOVE!

Cadogan Hall 9 Sep: The BIG Chris Barber Band. The British jazz legend celebrates his 67th anniversary as his band leader. 7.30pm. Tickets £25-£35. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. F6. Station: Sloane Square.

Indigo at The O2 Live music venue which is part of the huge O2.

30 Sep: Maryla Rodowicz. www.theo2.co.uk.

Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 0844-856 0202.

Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

The Jazz Café This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 3 Sep: Sugarhill Gang. The hip hop group is still going strong, 30 years on. 7 Sep: Jimmy Helms. Atlantic soul music. 11 Sep: Little Roy. Jamaican reggae from the vocalist with 50 years in the music business. Please check for full programme, times and ticket prices. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s famous jazz venue. 1-2 Sep: Courtney Pine. Legendary saxophonist. 12-17 Sep: Incognito. Jazz and funk group. Check for full programme, times and ticket prices. www.ronnie scotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Royal Albert Hall 21 Sep: Björk. 25 Sep: Live Music Brunch – The Cadillac Kings. 11.30am. Inspired by the sounds of the 1940s and ’50s, and popular on the blues and jump-jive scene. Tickets £30.50. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Visit BeautifulinLondon.co.uk Call 0845 200 7981

‘THE BEST WEST END MUSICAL FOR YEARS’ BBC RADIO 2

OPERA London Coliseum Home to the English National Opera.

Productions are sung in English. From 30 Sep: Don Giovanni. This follows Giovanni’s final 24 hours as he lusts his way towards his dramatic demise. 7pm. Tickets £85-£105. www.eno.org.

33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House Home to the Royal Opera. From 12 Sep: Norma (Bellini). Antonio Pappano conducts a wonderful cast led by Sonya Yoncheva, Joseph Calleja and Sonia Ganassi in a new production of Bellini’s operatic masterpiece, directed by Àlex Ollé of La Fura dels Baus. Priestess Norma loves Pollione, leader of an occupying dark force. From 13 Sep: Il Barbiere di Siviglia (Rossini).

Henrik Nánási conducts a cast including Javier Camarena, Daniela Mack and Vito Priante in this revival. Count Almaviva arrives in Seville to search for a mysterious woman. From 22 Sep: Cosi fan Tutte (Mozart). Semyon Bychkov conducts a cast of young and up-and-coming talent. This is a fun tale of love, fidelity and disguise. 7pm. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

THE STORY OF FRANKIE VALLI & THE FOUR SEASONS 0844 871 7630

Piccadilly Theatre

ALSO PLAYING SUNDAYS

JerseyBoysLondon.com www.wheretraveler.com 51

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ENTERTAINMENT

SEEN BY OVER 7 MILLION THEATREGOERS WORLDWIDE

THE ORIGINAL. LIVE ON STAGE. ‘THE MOST BRILLIANTLY EFFECTIVE

SPINE-CHILLER

YOU WILL EVER ENCOUNTER’ DAILY TELEGRAPH

DANCE Sadler’s Wells 6-17 Sep: Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater.

The global dance company returns to Sadler’s Wells for the first time since 2010. Please check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Avenue, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

Royal Opera House Home to the Royal Ballet. From 27 Sep: La Fille mal Gardée. Ashton’s final full-length ballet. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Southbank Centre 6 Sep: Candoco: You and I Know. The company of disabled and non-disabled dancers presents a new duet by the trailblazing choreographer Arlene Phillips. Free. 4pm & 6pm. 10 Sep: Saturday Night is Variety Night. An evening of dance, magic, music and performance, starring the New York-based magician Justin Sight. Free.

9pm. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS BBC Proms An annual festival of classical music. 1 Sep: Prom 63: Mass in B Minor. William Christie conducts Bach’s masterpiece. 10 Sep: Proms in the Park.

Headlined by the American pop rock band, Frankie Valli & The Four Seasons (p. 48). www.bbc. co.uk/proms. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 0207589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Darbar Festival 16-17 Sep: An annual celebration of Indian

classical music. Times and prices vary, many events free. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Independence Day Live

SUSAN HILL’S

22 Sep: See 1996 action classic on a 66ft screen, with live musical accompaniment by the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra. 6.15pm. Tickets £33.10-£73.90. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 0207589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Luna Cinema Watch classic films such as Notting Hill, Top Gun and Labyrinth under the stars outdoors at various locations across the capital including One New Change and Dulwich Park. Times and dates vary. www.thelunacinema.com. T: 0844-858 6767.

Totally Thames ADAPTED BY

STEPHEN MALLATRATT

FORTUNE THEATRE

0844 871 7626

thewomaninblack.com

Calls cost 7p per minute, plus your phone company’s access charge

Covent Garden

1-30 Sep: An annual art and culture festival

celebrating the River Thames (p. 14). Times and prices vary, and many events are free. www. totallythames.org. Various locations.

FILM The Lounge at ODEON Whiteleys Watch films in the intimate screening rooms, with comfortable leather seats, while dining on an exclusive menu from chef Rowley Leigh, with the food served directly to your seat. Please check for programme. www.odeon.co.uk/thelounge.

Whiteleys of Bayswater, Queensway, W2 4YL. T: 0871-2244 007. Off map. Station: Queensway.

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shopping | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this photo: Emilia Wickstead catwalk show; pop-up shop; Mary Katrantzou catwalk show; model Daisy Lowe as a guest speaker

Fashion for all The mini skirt, bowler hat and mac are just some of the style creations that were made in Britain and are worn the world over. We may be a small island, but we have had a big impact on the world of fashion. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the biannual London Fashion Week, which brings fashion editors, A-list celebrities and buyers to the city. While you can catch a glimpse of the action – including arrivals as well as the paparazzi frenzy outside key catwalk venues from Somerset House to the Natural History Museum – the best way to experience it is at its sister event, London Fashion Weekend (22-25 Sep).

The four-day soirée takes place at the equally fashionable Saatchi Gallery on the King’s Road, which was once the centre of punk culture in the 1970s. With shopping stalls that boast more than 150 international and British brands, and industry talks moderated by stylist Martha Ward, the event promises to be a celebration of the great and good in fashion. Previous speakers have included

photographer Rankin, model Daisy Lowe and fashion designer Charlotte Olympia.

J. JS Lee, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi and Sibling are just some of the designers who showcased their AW16 collections at London Fashion Week, and are bringing catwalk shows to London Fashion Weekend. Sibling co-founder Cozette McCreery says: ‘Sibling is always thrilled to be asked to be part of London Fashion Weekend’s catwalk schedule because

it means that the public can be part of what is usually an industry-only experience.’ At the weekend the catwalk shows will be dedicated to a different British designer.

Caroline Rush CBE, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, explains: ‘It has become increasingly more important for brands and designers to connect directly with their customers. London is the only fashion capital to offer this direct-to-consumer experience and insight into the fashion industry which is worth £28 billion to the UK economy.’

Shopping can be hard work. Once you’re finished, be pampered at pop-ups run

by Maybelline New York and Toni & Guy. Experiment and try next season’s hair and make-up trends with help from the experts.

Tickets start at £20 – a range of packages are available offering different incentives, from front-row seats at the catwalk shows to designer tote bags. Happy shopping!

Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. www.londonfashionweekend.co.uk

FASHION IMAGES courtesy of LONDON FASHION WEEKEND

As London Fashion Week begins for industry insiders, you can get a taste of the action at London Fashion Weekend, during which you can browse designer brands and beauty stalls and listen to guest speakers, says Kohinoor Sahota

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most shops are open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, Sun 11am-4pm, and some open late on Thur evening. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 80-81

MAJOR STORES Fenwick

Jewellery & Watches Links of London

Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jewellery and watches with a high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Fortnum & Mason

Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

This British institution is famed for its food hall.

Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys One of the world’s biggest toy shops.

Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Edwardian food halls and luxury men and women’s fashion. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Liberty The epitome of heritage combined with cuttingedge design. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

House of Fraser Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods.

Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

John Lewis Covetable fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted department store. Mon-Wed; Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Pandora

Wempe Big selection of luxury jewellery and watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Kid’s stores Nickelodeon

Products inspired by the channel’s TV shows.

Includes London-inspired toys, such as stuffed toy guards. Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. E7.

Station: Leicester Square.

Specialist Stores Buckingham Palace Shop

Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created

by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

John Bell & Croyden The ‘Queen’s chemist’ also has a walk-in clinic for vaccinations. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

London Glassblowing Dazzling glass art plus workshops where you can create your own glass pieces. www.londonglass blowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

M&M’s World Pass Partner Sweet treats, including a giant M&M’s World and London-inspired chocolate souvenirs.

Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Prestat One of London’s oldest chocolate shops sells hot chocolate, truffles and more. Please check for times. www.prestat.co.uk. 14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS. T: 020-8961 8555. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Twinings This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it’s been trading from 1706 – and is full of a variety of teas and infusions. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop that offers prints and other products created by British-based designers. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Whisky Exchange Specialist retailer of fine whiskies and spirits. www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Selfridges The finest products in beauty and fashion.

Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Malls & Factory Outlets Bicester Village Pass Partner Discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed, Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicestervillage.com.

Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

STALL IMAGE COURTESY OF BEST OF BRITANNIA

FASHION IMAGES courtesy of LONDON FASHION WEEKEND

For more information on the where pass london, visit wherepasslondon.com

Westfield London Pass Partner This mall is home to more than 300 shops (p. 62). www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Westfield Stratford City Pass Partner Europe’s largest shopping centre with 270 shops, 70 places to dine and a 24-hour casino. www.west field.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Made in Britain Best of Britannia (from 30 Sep) celebrates British brands, from Walker Slater’s tweed jackets to Hand & Lock’s hand embroidery. Now in its fifth year, the event takes place in Bloomsbury’s Victoria House. Co-founder Joe Pidgeon says: ‘For a visitor to London and, of course, Britain, we would hope that they’d want to find out about the best elements of the products that are made here and meet the people who make them.’ Mr Masey’s Emporium of Beards is also running a pop-up barber shop.

From £7. Victoria House, Southampton Row, WC1B 4DA. www.bestofbritannia.com. D8. Station: Holborn www.wheretraveler.com 55

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UGG Australia RE Prada Hollister R E Rolex ET Coach encompassing design, taste and a sense ET Penhaligon’s Gap Leviev Hunter Omega Saint Laurent ofWbeauty, ects the Italian style I G M O R Ewhich Wolford S T R Erefl Daks Barbour ET Gucci The Highlands La Perla of the brand.

Whittard of Chelsea Marina Rinaldi Dolce & Gabbana Kiehls United Colors of Benetton, 255-259 PICCADILLY Vertu Alexander McQueen CIRCUS GREEN PARK Barbour Regent St, W1B 2ER. T: 020-7647 4200.

Cartier Tod’s (100yards) International Y L L De Beers Mappin & Webb www.world.benetton.com PICCADI H E N R I E T TA P Fortnum LACE Tumi & Mason Osprey London Hawes Cath Kidston Bates Hatters & Curtis Alfred EET Links of RLondon Dunhill J E R M Y N S T Emmett Jones Bootmaker Paxton & London’s finest collection of stylish clothes Whitfield T.M.Lewin for women with curves. We specialise in sizes Church’s Hackett Longmire 16 to 28 for occasion wear, weekends and Thomas Pink BOND STREET

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more! Expect one-to-one service from knowledgeable stylists while sipping a glass of wine. The West End store is open seven days a week. Our City branch (near Holborn) has great clothes for busy professionals.

West End Branch: 44 New Cavendish St, W1G 8TR. T: 020-7935 3999. www.beigeplus.com

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SPECIALISTS IN LARGE S I Z E S 1 6 - 2 8 Beautiful clothes - casual, cocktail, special occasion and business

M A RY L E B O N E

HOLBORN

44 New Cavendish Street

33 Southampton Row

London W1G 8TR

London WC1B 5HJ

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

CLOSED SUNDAYS

beigeplus.com

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SHOPPING HYDE PARK CORNER (0.3miles)

Rolex By The Watch Gallery UGG Mari Vanna GE R I DHarvey Nichols B Burberry T S KNIGHTSBRIDGE Karen Millen H Boodles G Boss Liu Jo Salvatore Ferragamo L.K.Bennett Alberta Ferretti Tom Ford Lacoste Dolce & Gabbana Ermanno Scervino Shanghai Tang Watches of Switzerland Swarovski Moncler Tommy Hilfiger Graff Escada Porsche Design Massimo Dutti Louis Vuitton Russell & Bromley Ted Baker Gucci Miu Miu Bonhams KNIGHTSBRIDGE Versace Roberto Cavalli Fendi D Rochester Big & Tall Clothing A Space NK Michael Kors Hermes Dior O Basha R Aaron Bulgari at Harrods Godiva Jimmy Choo N Kuoni in Harrods Dolce & Gabbana Bottega Veneta Harrods TO Aromatherapy Associates Valentino R ESCENT P Gap Saint Laurent M Escada ST O Pinko at Harrods B M Pucci Tods Nespresso R CO B Reiss OT CHANEL M Caroline Castigliano Christian I N S T Arije Giorgio Armani LK Louboutin Mulberry HA B La Perla W Loro Piana E Coccinelle A CADOGAN PLACE Prada U Lauren B C D H Emporio Armani Herve Leger A A John Boyd O M R P Stewart Parvin Caroline Charles P N Agent Bruce Oldfield L Amrapali HANS ST A Provocateur TO Suzanne Neville C P E Haute Couture T OM T STREE

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Chocolatier Godiva is located inside Harrods, the world-famous department store. The Gold Collection, which has been launched to mark the Queen’s 90th birthday, contains the brand’s iconic chocolates as well as the new fragrant rose and raspberry-flavoured one (18 pieces £28; nine pieces £15).

Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.godivachocolates.co.uk

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Red soles at the bottom of the shoes can only mean one thing: Christian Louboutin. The French designer’s shoes have graced the feet of Kylie Minogue, Kate Moss and Emma Watson. Live out your footwear fantasies at this shop, which sells shoes and leather goods.

23 Motcomb St, SW1X 8LB. T: 0843-227 4322. www.eu.christianlouboutin.com

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SHOPPING

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE UK

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TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT ) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask instore for more information about tax-free shopping.

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Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

@NickStoreLondon #NICKSTORELONDON

FEMALE SHOPPER COURTESY OF WESTFIELD; CARNABY STREET © ISTOCK

Visit us in-store at Leicester Square OR on-line at www.nickelodeonSTORE.co.uk

%

purchases over £35. Valid until 30th September 2016. purchase To redeem, brbring this coupon into the store or use promo code ode on-line:GIFT on-line: GIFTFTF

Limit one per person, per visit. Cannot be combined with other coupons or discounts. May not be redeemed any other retail rettail locations. © 2016 Viacom International Inc. All Rights Reserved. SpongeBob SquarePants created by Stephen Hillenburg. TEENAGE MU MUTANT NINJA TURTLES © Viacom Overseas Holdings C.V. © 2016 Spin Master. All Rights Reserved.

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Bottoms up!

If you can’t make up your mind over breakfast or dinner, opt for the latest trend – a bottomless bubbly brunch.

With sky-high eateries, a Peruvian twist or a luxury location, Sam Rogg finds that there is a brunch for everyone In 1895, inspired by his own hangovers, English author Guy Beringer invented a new mealtime: brunch. Unable to rise for breakfast one morning, he penned an essay – Brunch: A Plea – to aid fellow sufferers.

‘Brunch is cheerful, sociable and inciting,’ he wrote of the meal, which is a late breakfast or early lunch. ‘It puts you in a good temper, it makes you satisfied with yourself and your fellow beings, it sweeps away the worries of the week.’ A century on and Beringer’s invention is more popular than ever, particularly at weekends when bottomless brunches abound!

Situated inside five-star luxury hotel Brown’s, restaurant HIX Mayfair is the place to go to for a quintessentially British brunch, with free-flowing Bloody Marys or Champagne.

Don’t let the traditional white tablecloths deceive you: this is one of the trendiest brunch spots in the capital, with Tracey Emin and Bridget Riley artworks on the walls. Begin with smoked salmon and scrambled Burford

Brown eggs before classic mains of spicy fish kedgeree or chopped salad with chicken.

After a few drinks, you’ll lose the willpower to resist dessert – we recommend the elderflower buttermilk pudding. The service is outstanding and the ambience is peaceful. Ask for a curved banquette table for the best seats in the house (from £50. Sat only. 33 Albemarle St, W1S 4BP ).

At Pachamama in Marylebone, brunch gets the Peruvian touch with dishes such as suckling lamb leg and ‘pollo a la brasa’ (charcoal-grilled marinated chicken). Most people head here for the bottomless Bellinis and brunch waffles

however, which are gluten-free and made to order. Top yours with grilled plantain, beetroot-cured salmon or poached eggs. (from £39. Sat & Sun. 18 Thayer St, W1U 3JY).

For brunch with a view, head up to Urban Coterie on the 17th floor of M by Montcalm, a five-star hotel in fashionable Shoreditch.

Choose from classics such as scrambled duck eggs, French toast, and sardines and avocado on toasted sourdough. ‘An indulgent weekend brunch is one of my favourite meals,’ says Michelin-starred chef Anthony Demetre, who is behind this eatery. ‘When else can you have pancakes, eggs and a steak all in one meal?’ (from £32. 151-157 City Rd, EC1V 1JH).

Or why not satisfy your brunch pangs at rustic café Jar Kitchen in Covent Garden? Here the brunch menu leans more towards breakfast than lunch, so expect baked eggs with spinach and feta, buckwheat pancakes with strawberries, and a full English breakfast, plus Prosecco, Mimosas and Bloody Marys galore! (from £31.50. Sat only. 176 Drury Lane, WC2B 5QF).

hix mayfair courtesy of brown’s; fruit plate courtesy of pachamama; jar kitchen courtesy of jar kitchen

Clockwise from left: Hix Mayfair; Pachamama; Jar Kitchen

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch) D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 80-81

AmericaS (NORTH & SOUTH) The Colony Grill Room This wood-panelled room inside The Beaumont serves US grill fare. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.colony grillroom.com. The Beaumont, 8 Balderton St, W1K 6TN. T: 020-7499 9499. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint with music memorabilia. ££. Daily L & D. www.hard rock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 0207514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Heliot Steak House

St Pancras Grand

Park Terrace

Brasserie located in St Pancras station. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Located in the Royal Garden Hotel London, the restaurant overlooks Kensington Gardens. ££££.

Daily B, L & D. www.parkterracerestaurant.co.uk.

2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7937 8000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Tom’s Kitchen Delightful all-day brasserie serving modern comfort food. Popular for weekend brunch. ££.

Daily B, L & D. www.tomskitchen.co.uk. 27 Cale St, SW3 3QP (and branches). T: 020-7349 0202.

Off map. Station: South Kensington.

British (Traditional) Café in the Crypt

Upmarket steak house in a casino. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodromecasino.com. Hippodrome Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Great café underneath a landmark church. £. MonSat B, L & D; Sun B & L. www.smitf.org. St Martinin-the-Fields, corner of Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Planet Hollywood

Mews of Mayfair

Huge London outlet of the international chain. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planet hollywoodlondon.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforest cafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

STK London

The Ritz Restaurant One of London’s prettiest dining rooms. ££££.

Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7.

Station: Green Park.

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar Relaxed bar-restaurant in Theatreland. Try the Aberdeen Angus roast beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB (and Chelsea branch). T: 020-7836 8836. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Chinese

This stunning four-floored venue includes a brasserie, private dining room, lounge and bar, an art gallery and a courtyard with alfresco tables. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsofmayfair.com.

10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Wonderful Cantonese and Shanghai dishes in a sophisticated setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.brightcourtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Old Masters Carvery and Grill Room

Chai Wu

Dine under ornate chandeliers and high ceilings in this popular buffet-style carvery. ££££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

Luxury dishes in this amazing restaurant in the iconic department store Harrods. ££££.

Daily L; Mon-Sat L & D. www.chaiwu.co.uk.

87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Bright Courtyard Club

Dine on British and American prime steaks in the ME London hotel’s steak house. ££££. Daily L & D. www.stkhouse.com. ME Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

british (Modern) Cheneston’s

Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes such as saffron risotto. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestone hotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map.

Station: High Street Kensington.

Fera at Claridge’s Chef Simon Rogan serves food made with organic ingredients. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk/fera. Claridge’s hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Garfunkel’s Popular British dishes, plus pizzas, pasta, wraps and a salad bar. Many West End and central locations. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.garfunkels. co.uk. 19 Irving St, WC2H 7AU. T: 020-7930 8087.

E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Great Court Restaurant kaspar’s courtesy of the savoy

hix mayfair courtesy of brown’s; fruit plate courtesy of pachamama; jar kitchen courtesy of jar kitchen

For more information on the where pass london, visit wherepasslondon.com

Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the iconic Reading Room. ££. Sat-Thur 11.30am-5.30pm; Fri 11.30am-8.30pm. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Indigo at One Aldwych Informal all-day restaurant inside hotel One Aldwych. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com. 1 Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Big fish Building on the rich history of restaurants at The Savoy hotel, Kaspar’s is an all-day seafood and grill restaurant that shimmers with Art Deco style. An opulent interior inspired by the decadence of the 1920s is made all the more perfect by friendly staff and an informal, relaxed atmosphere. Choose from a wide selection of high-quality fresh fish and seafood, including delicious slivers of smoked salmon, rock oysters or panroasted scallops on a bed of smashed peas, bacon and mint. Follow these with an English classic, Dover sole, or for something special, lobster or sea bream. Meat-lovers should try the spicy spatchcock chicken or exquisite Hereford fillet of beef. End with a sublime sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce and orange ice cream. Seeing a show? Try the excellent pre- and post-theatre menu boasting two or three courses for less than £30.

Strand, WC2R 0EU. T: 020-7420 2111. www.kaspars.co.uk. E8. Station: Embankment www.wheretraveler.com 61

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DINING

Chi Kichen

The Ivy

Pan-Asian restaurant in Debenhams department store. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen.co.uk.

Debenhams (ground floor), 334-338 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street.

Celebrity favourite that’s good for a pre- or post-theatre menu. £££-££££. Daily L & D. Last orders at midnight. www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Hakkasan

SixtyOne Restaurant

Multi-award-winning restaurant and bar which justifies the hype. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

This restaurant serves great food that’s full of big, bold flavours. Tue-Sat L & D. £££. www.sixtyone restaurant.co.uk. 61 Upper Berkeley St, W1H 7PP. T: 020-7958 3222. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Min Jiang

This restaurant in The Shard serves European dishes with an Asian influence. Daily B, L & D. ££££. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Take in glorious views across Hyde Park while enjoying superb Sichuan cuisine. ££££.

Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.

Contemporary European 1 Lombard Street A mouth-watering selection of gutsy, modern cooking in the brasserie and a more expensive menu in the restaurant of this former bank.

Brasserie: £££; Restaurant: ££££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern haute cuisine. Booking essential; smart dress. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvin atwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Ting

Fish and Seafood J Sheekey

Chic fish restaurant. Dishes include oysters, crab and spicy prawns. ££££. Daily L & D. www.jsheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mr Fish Enjoy traditional British fish and chips, or try halibut or sea bass fried in breadcrumbs. £. Daily L & D. www.mrfish.uk.com. 51 Salusbury Rd, NW6 6NJ. T: 020-7624 8181. Off map. Station: Queen’s Park.

The Sea Shell Try dishes such as goujons of lemon sole in this much-loved institution. Mon-Sat L & D. ££. www.sea shellrestaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.

French

Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food from this three-Michelinstarred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com.

The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Aubaine A wonderful combination of a Parisian salon and a Provençal bistro. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.aubaine.co.uk. 260-262 Brompton Rd, SW3 2AS (and branches). T: 020-7052 0100.

F5. Station: South Kensington.

Bel Canto Waiters (music students) perform opera while you dine. Two-course set D £54; three-course £59.

Thur-Sat D. www.belcantolondon.co.uk. Corus Hotel Hyde Park, 1 Lancaster Gate, W2 3LG. T: 020-7262 1678. E4. Station: Lancaster Gate.

Boundary Terence Conran’s French restaurant. £££.

Mon-Sat D; Sun L. www.theboundary.co.uk.

2-4 Boundary St, E2 7DD. T: 020-7729 1051.

Off map. Station: Shoreditch High Street.

Brasserie Joël This French brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare and tournedos Rossini. ££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272.

F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel Bustling French brasserie serving a good-value set menu. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com.

20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7.

Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Celeste French-inspired cuisine. £££-££££.

Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Club Gascon Imaginative Michelin-starred French cuisine from Gascony and an award-winning wine list. £££-££££. Tue-Fri L; Mon-Sat D. www.club gascon.com. 57 West Smithfield, EC1A 9DS. T: 020-7600 6144. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Galvin Bistrot de Luxe Parisian-style bistro. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvinrestaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Le Pont de la Tour

Happy birthday, British Vogue ! To celebrate the magazine’s 100th birthday, a temporary Vogue Café has popped up in Westfield London (to 27 Sep; p. 55). ‘The café will be a perfect stop-off for shoppers in The Village at Westfield,’ says Alexandra Shulman, editor-in-chief of the magazine. Head here for salted caramel macarons by L’Orchidee, Persian pistachio cupcakes, raw carrot muffins and Mediterranean scones. Channel your inner Kate Moss with smoked salmon blinis and green lentil salad with Kalamata olives.

Can’t decide what to have? Indulge in an afternoon tea fit for Anna Wintour, featuring a chef’s selection of pastries, scones and delicate finger sandwiches. Then wash it down with a glass of Bollinger bubbles and you’ll be feeling fabulous in no time, darling!

Gastropubs The Eagle

One of London’s first gastropubs. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. ££. www.theeaglefarringdon.co.uk.

159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL. T: 020-7837 1353.

D9. Station: Farringdon.

The Thomas Cubitt Classic dining room. £££. Daily L & D. www.the thomascubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.

vogue cafÉ © G-FONNE PHOTOGRAPHY

Strike a pose!

Stunning riverside restaurant serves classic French dishes in a 19th-century former tea warehouse. £££. Daily L & D. www.lepontdela tour.co.uk. 36d Shad Thames, SE1 2YE. T: 0207403 8403. Off map. Station: London Bridge.

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting.

Michelin star.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: amaya@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in London’s haven of great Indian contemporary food.

Open for breakfast from Monday to Friday; lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday.

73 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: chutneymary@realindianfood.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world.

Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: veeraswamy@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING The Wells

A star is born

This bright and airy pub boasts top-quality British cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.thewellshampstead. co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785.

Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Tom Sellers was only 26 years old when he received his first Michelin star, just five months after opening Restaurant Story.

Now the British chef is back with Restaurant Ours in the heart of Knightsbridge. A 30-metre catwalk entrance sets the tone for the dramatic dining room, which is built around three huge indoor trees. The menu includes seasonal modern and traditional European dishes such as steak tartare and veal chop with black truffle. Every bite reflects the chef’s passion and quality of ingredients.

264 Brompton Rd, SW3 2AS. T: 020-7100 2200. www.restaurant-ours.com.

F5. Station: Knightsbridge

Indian Amaya Wonderful Belgravia restaurant, where Karunesh Khanna’s Michelin-starred food is cooked in the dramatic show kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. 19 Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Chor Bizarre This popular restaurant specialises in cuisine from north India. £££. Mon-Sat L; daily D. www.chor bizarre.com. 16 Albemarle St, W1S 4HW. T: 0207629 9802. E7. Station: Green Park.

Chutney Mary This gourmet Indian restaurant has been popular with Londoners for more than 20 years – expect a tour of seven Indian regions. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Gaylord

Khan’s of Kensington This popular restaurant serves great vegetarian and fish dishes. The décor is particularly striking. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansofkensington.co.uk.

3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114.

G4. Station: South Kensington.

La Porte des Indes Indian cuisine with a Gallic twist, inspired by the Pondicherry region. £££. Daily L & D. www.la portedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Veeraswamy

Matsuri

The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant. ££-£££.

Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Innovative dining in this lovely restaurant. £££. Daily L & D. www.matsuri-restaurant.com. 15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E7. Station: Green Park.

International The Cavendish

Fish, meats and salads are prepared while you watch. ££. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 0207487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.

SushiSamba Fusion of Japanese and Brazilian food.

Little India

£££. Daily L & D. www.sushisamba.com. 38th floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 020-3640 7330. D11.

This cosy venue specialises in dishes from Bengal.

Station: Liverpool Street.

££. Daily L & D. www.littleindialondon.com.

32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Italian Cicchetti

Masala Grill Dine on delicious grills, seafood dishes, street food and curries. ££. Daily L & D. www.masala grill.co. 535 King’s Rd, SW10 0SZ. T: 020-7351 3113. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Outstanding small plates and a buzzy atmosphere. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk.

30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7240 6339.

E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Traditional East End favourites are pie and mash, and jellied eels with parsley liquor

Masala Zone Informal dining and good value. Tuck into a grand thali. £. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Memories of India Authentic flavours from the north of India. ££. Daily L & D. www.memoriesofindia.com.

18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450.

G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Mint Leaf Contemporary Indian dishes are the trademark of this restaurant. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mint leafgroup.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Gigi’s Classic Italian dishes. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.gigismayfair.com. 22 Woodstock St, W1C 2AR. T: 020-7499 8743. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Verdi Casual dining. ££. Daily L & D. www.verdiitalian.com.

Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

japanese & korean Engawa Choose from several tasting menus at this small but excellent sushi spot. £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 0207287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Middle Eastern, Greek & Turkish Yasmeen Wonderful authentic dishes influenced

by Lebanese and Syrian cuisines. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

riverside Bateaux London

See London’s sights on a river cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. Nightly evening cruises. www.bateauxlondon. com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 0207695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

London Showboat Drift down the River Thames past London’s landmarks while enjoying a four-course dinner.

Nightly £80 per person; booking essential. Departs from Westminster Pier 7.30pm. www.citycruises.com.

Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8.

Station: Westminster.

RS Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames with exceptional food. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/ Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011.

E8. Station: Embankment.

south East Asian Blue Elephant

Riverside Thai restaurant. £££. TueSun D; Sun L. www.blueelephant.com. Boulevard, Imperial Wharf, Townsmead Rd, SW6 2UB. T: 0207751 3111. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

image courtesy of restaurant ours

London’s second-oldest Indian restaurant is famed for its tandoori. ££. Daily L & D. www.gay lordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

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IMAGE COURTESY OF RESTAURANT OURS

Introducing

HOLLYWOOD INSPIRED DINING IN THE HEART OF LONDON Illustration © Shutterstock/ Lisa Kolbasa

G O . S E E . D O . LONDON

The best of London in one card

APPETISERS • STEAKS • RIBS FA J I TA S • B U R G E R S • F I S H PA S TA S • P I Z Z A S • A S I A N SALADS•SANDWICHES D E S S E R T S • C O C K TA I L S

Use across public transport Tickets and offers for the city’s top attractions Manage your travel money The Where® Pass is London’s new traveller’s ticket allowing visitors to experience top attractions with integrated discounts and transport. Incorporating contactless debit card technology and an interactive digital platform, visiting London has never been more convenient.

Find out more at wherepasslondon.com Or perhaps Berlin, wherepassberlin.com or Paris, wherepassparis.com

RESTAURANT OPEN ‘TIL MIDNIGHT (11PM SUN) BAR OPEN ‘TIL 1AM (MIDNIGHT SUN)

20% OFF

FOOD/SOFT DRINKS/MERCHANDISE Not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Payment by cash or debit/credit card only. Discount applies to a la carte menu (excluding kids’ menu). Valid daily (except 5pm to 9pm Saturday) until 30/12/16. Not valid 25/12/16. Subject to availability.

1 voucher per table maximum 8 persons. Code WHERE. Please show this advert to your server before ordering.

TO BOOK PLEASE CALL

020 7287 1000 planethollywoodlondon.com

57-60 HAYMARKET LONDON SW1Y 4QX

TUBE: PICCADILLY CIRCUS OR LEICESTER SQ

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DINING Mango Tree This elegant restaurant near Buckingham Palace serves classic Thai dishes. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Great food in Trafalgar Square – whatever the weather • Open daily for al fresco dining behind St Martin-in-the-Fields • Take away and table service

Thai Pot This popular spot serves truly fantastic food. MonSat L & D. £. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Spanish El Pirata Busy tapas bar-restaurant. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Ibérica Victoria Traditional dishes are given a modern twist. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com.

5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

• Breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea • Evening meals including platters to share and full wine list Read our reviews on

www.smitf.org

Terrific tapas Nobu’s former head of private dining Amir Jati has launched a Spanish and Italian tapas restaurant on the ground floor of The May Fair Hotel. May Fair Kitchen has a long table made from a single tree trunk which is ideal for groups, and single seats by the window where you can watch the world go by. Dishes include plump, creamy burrata and a trio of bruschetta loaded with crab and lime. Also try the lobster risotto and gorgonzola gnocchi on a Parmesan crisp. Leave space for the chocolate fondant – it oozes warm sauce.

Stratton St, W1J 8LT. T: 020-7915 3892. www.mayfairkitchen.co.uk. E6.

Station: Green Park

Experience Indian food as it’s meant to be at Masala Grill.

With our expertly cooked regional dishes and richly decorated restaurant, a visit to Masala Grill (in the former home of Chutney Mary) is a feast for all the senses.

We’re open every evening for dinner and on Sundays for our famous buffet lunch.

Rediscover your passion for Indian food at Masala Grill.

535 KINGS ROAD LONDON SW10 0SZ 020 7351 7788 | MASALAGRILL.CO | RESERVATIONS@MASALAGRILL.CO

Vegetarian Tibits Vegetarian buffet-style food including salads, hot dishes and puddings. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits. co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Well-flavoured cuisine from throughout India. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant. co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches).

T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

may fair kitchen © lcd

S AVOUR THE AU THENTIC FL AVOURS OF INDIA

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Time for tea For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist

REAL INDIAN FOOD SPECIAL DEALS AT LUNCH

THE BERKELEY HOTEL Love fashion? Then don’t miss the Prêt-à-Portea at this luxury Knightsbridge hotel celebrating the creative genius of fashion designers. It is also this popular afternoon tea’s 10th birthday.

Take a bite out of Prada’s beautiful red velvet ‘handbag’ cake, slip on Balmain’s orange peach posset ‘dress’, and wrap yourself in Emilia Wickstead’s sleek chocolate mousse ‘coat’. A mouth-watering selection of miniature savoury skewers, taster spoons, elegant canapés and sandwiches are also served, alongside premium loose-leaf teas. Add a glass of Bollinger rosé and you’ll feel absolutely fabulous in no time, sweetie darling.

Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7235 6000. www.the-berkeley.co.uk

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA L A ZO N E .CO M

SELFRIDGES

jungle book afternoon tea at taj hotel © PP Musial PHOTOGRAPHY

may fair kitchen © lcd

ENJOY THE THALI AT

London can be a hive of heat and humidity, even in September. Cool off with a Gelato Afternoon Tea at one of London’s most famous department stores. Handcrafted with 100 per cent natural ingredients, including organic Jersey milk and Somerset cream, the gelato at Snowflake is award-winning and impossibly smooth. The afternoon tea includes ice-cream sponge and cookie sandwiches, gelato-stuffed macarons and gelato-filled cannoli. The ice cream might be inspired by Italy but the tea and coffee are thoroughly British. Try a creamy café latte made with Monmouth Coffee.

400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. www.selfridges.com

HOME STYLE COOKING ‘Temple to good taste’ One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a lady. Dinner bookings are strongly recommended as Little India is really little!

CHRISTMAS PARTY 3 courses from £35pp

TAJ HOTEL Inspired by Rudyard Kipling’s classic story, the Taj Hotel’s Jungle Book Afternoon Tea (above) is an unforgettable culinary journey to the heart of the book. Kids will love the pink guava and basil jelly, and Bandar log spiced banoffee with saffron cream, named after the monkey tribe that tries to lure Mowgli to the trees. Even adults won’t be able to resist Baloo’s Himalayan honey macarons and Shere Khan’s masala chai éclair. Savoury delights boast an Indian twist to reflect Kipling’s love of the continent and, best of all, you’ll receive a bespoke edition of the famous book at the end of your meal.

51 Buckingham Gate, SW1E 6AF. T: 0207963 8391. www.taj51buckinghamgate.co.uk

Private Events for up to 300 guests 32 Gloucester Road, London SW7 4RB

Tel: 020 7584 3476 020 7589 9315

www.littleindialondon.com

Call 020 7958 7000 bbar@rchmail.com 43 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0PP www.bbarlondon.com

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W H E R E

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P R O M O T I O N

best of london dining Chi Kitchen Contemporary pan-Asian restaurant Chi Kitchen opened last year on the ground floor of Debenhams on Oxford Street. The word ‘chi’, in Chinese, means energy, and the restaurant strives to offer good energy, as well as great food, to hungry shoppers. The open-plan restaurant lets you watch the chefs prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. Chi Kitchen will take you on a unique culinary journey through south east Asia.

Mention ‘Where London’ when you book to enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal at Chi Kitchen.

Mon-Sat 7.30am-11pm (last orders 10.15pm), Sun 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9.15pm).

Chai Wu

Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk.

Station: Oxford Circus

Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the Fifth Floor of the iconic department store, Harrods, in Knightsbridge.

The restaurant design incorporates the five elements of Chinese philosophy: wood, metal, water, earth and fire, creating an elegant, opulent and welcoming dining setting.

The tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as black truffle sour soup and Chilean sea bass dumpling with gold leaf, as well as luxurious dishes including Beijing duck and wagyu steak.

Mon-Sat noon-9pm (last orders 8.30pm), Sun noon-6pm (last orders 5.15pm) 5th Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

Khans of Kensington Visit Khans of Kensington for delicious, genuine Indian cuisine which a core of devotees have been enjoying for many years.

The restaurant prides itself on its modern take on traditional North Indian cuisine, with mouthwatering dishes such as its famous fish koliwada and lamb chop in honey sauce. The expansive menu covers many dishes, but if you don’t see your personal favourite on the menu, just ask the team of expert chefs and they will be more than happy to set that right. The restaurant is just a minute’s walk from South Kensington tube station.

Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm.

Memories of India

3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. www.khansofkensington.co.uk.

Station: South Kensington

At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have a private room for parties and corporate functions.

Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm.

18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734. www.memoriesofindia.com.

Station: Gloucester Road.

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best of london dining Min Jiang Situated in the heart of Kensington, Min Jiang restaurant boasts breath-taking views over London’s skyline and offers authentic Chinese cuisine using the finest ingredients. Located on the tenth floor of the Royal Garden Hotel, Min Jiang is renowned for its legendary wood fired Beijing duck, spicy Sichuan dishes and exquisite range of dim sum. Its contemporary private dining room, Chong Qing, offers a beautiful setting with a high ceiling and mirrored walls. Seating up to 20 guests, there is an impressive atmosphere to give you an occasion to remember.

Daily noon-3pm & 6pm-10.30pm.

El Pirata

Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT T: 020-7361 1988 www.minjiang.co.uk Station: High Street Kensington

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. Informal, inexpensive and above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Hardens), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal).

Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm, Sat 6pm-11.30pm, closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315 www.elpirata.co.uk Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Mango Tree Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish environment. Its innovative yet classic cuisine is made from the finest ingredients. Enjoy genuine Thai dishes from the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild, Chinese-style dishes from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south.

Mention ‘Where London’ when booking, and enjoy a free glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal.

Monday-Wed noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun noon-10.30pm.

Chor Bizarre

46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ (also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL). T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria

Much-feted Chor Bizarre on Albemarle Street in Mayfair offers a distinctive ambience. Its fabulous interior has been given a makeover, with gorgeous furnishings sourced from bazaars in India. It’s not surprising that Chor Bizarre, the London branch of New Delhi’s eternal favourite, has been judged ‘One of the 50 most romantic places in the world’ and included ‘among the Top 10 Restaurants in London for Fun and Atmosphere’ by The Independent newspaper, as well as ‘The best North Indian Restaurant in the UK’ by The Cobra Good Curry Guide.

Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm.

16 Albemarle St, W1S 4HW T: 020-7629 9802 www.chorbizarre.com Station: Green Park

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restaurant and food images courtesy of the masala group; inset image © Chloe Crewe-Read

The Masala Group has led the way as curry connoisseur, from Michelin stars to the country’s oldest Indian restaurant. As Masala Zone refurbishes its venues and expands its menu, Kohinoor Sahota explains how you can get a taste of real Indian food

hey say London is the best place outside of India to try Indian cuisine.

It was in 2001 that chicken tikka masala was declared Britain’s national dish by Labour Foreign Secretary, Robin Cook, and Indian food became a staple in the British diet. Curry champions, sisters Camellia and Namita Panjabi, and Namita’s husband Ranjit Mathrani, have revolutionised Indian cuisine from post-pub kebabs to highend meals. The trio are behind the Masala World restaurant group, which has restaurants that range from the budget to upmarket.

Created in 1989, the Masala Group boasts an impressive list of critically acclaimed restaurants: Chutney Mary, which moved to St James’s Square last year; the Michelinstarred Amaya in Knightsbridge; the oldest Indian restaurant in the world, Veeraswamy, which turned 90 years old this year; then there is the newly created Masala Grill on the King’s Road; and Masala Zone, which has brought real Indian food to the masses.

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE | Where LONDON

restaurant and food images courtesy of the masala group; inset image © Chloe Crewe-Read

Clockwise from left: Masala Zone; grills and biriyani Inset: Namita Panjabi, Ranjit Mathrani and Camellia Panjabi

Masala Zone is in seven locations across the capital including Covent Garden, Soho, Earl’s Court, Bayswater and Camden. Keen to keep the restaurants fresh, the Earl’s Court, Islington and Soho branches have recently been refurbished and exude a casual elegance – the brass statuettes on display at Earl’s Court have been made by tribal artists of the Bastar region, while Soho’s Bangle Bar has been crafted out of broken glass bangles.

No trip to London is complete without eating a curry. Visit any Masala Zone and there is a vibrant atmosphere in these restaurants, which can seat more than 100 people and have private dining rooms.

In the evening the restaurants fill up with locals and tourists alike who are hungry for the taste of authentic Indian food.

The Panjabi sisters and Mathrani travelled all over India to bring the taste of street food to Masala Zone. Street food dishes on the menu include the starters: gol guppa (boondi-stuffed wholewheat biscuits, then

dunked into tingling tamarind water and popped into the mouth whole) and samosas (stuffed pastries with chickpeas or chicken), as well as new additions such as crispy quails and angrezi corn and cheese pakora (a monsoon grazing snack).

The thali, which means plate, is the star of the show and is served on a steel plate. If you can’t make up your mind about what to eat, this is a great way to try a variety of dishes that come in small bowls, which include a choice of curries, lentils, popadoms and rice or chapattis. There are meat and vegetarian options with regional dishes from across India, such as butter chicken from Delhi and undhiyo and lentil khichdi from Gujarat.

Raise a glass to your trip with a tipple from the extensive drinks menu. Drinks include Indian-inspired cocktails, from the Lucknowi

Fizz that includes Finlandia Vodka, lychee, kewra syrup, lemon and Prosecco, to the Chai Negroni that has chai spices infused with Bombay Dry Gin, Campari and Martini Rossi.

The wine list has been specially curated to go with Indian food, from the Gavi di Gavi La Contessa that brings out the flavour of fish dishes, to full-bodied Zinfandel Sebastiani that partners well with the dhaaba roghan josh.

Keeping things authentic, there are also drinks you would except to find in restaurants in India such as sweet and savoury lassi (a cooling yoghurt drink that comes in mango, pistachio and cardamom flavours) and Nimboo Pani (a fresh lemon squash).

Hearty, fun and affordable – with thalis starting at £12.75 and lunch bowls starting at £9 – Masala Zone offers an experience to remember. www.masalazone.com www.wheretraveler.com 71

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nightlife | THE GUIDE

Wine not?

Through the grapevine From the 18th century to the 1980s, Fleet Street was the beating heart of Britain’s newspaper industry. These days, most print titles have moved on but it remains the spiritual home of the Press. Even media mogul Rupert Murdoch can’t tear himself away – he wed Jerry Hall in St Bride’s Church there earlier this year. But this is no ordinary church as you’ll notice a hidden wine bar in its vaults.

At 3,600sqft, Humble Grape is more than your average wine bar. In addition to 200 seats, you’ll find a wine shop, cellar, events space and 18-seat private dining room, so whether you’re looking for a quick glass, an impromptu wine tasting or quality bottle to take away with you, you’ll find it here. If the historic space, friendly staff and spacious interiors don’t coax you inside then the menu certainly will.

Unlike many wine bars, Humble Grape directly imports bottles from relatively unknown, independent vineyards worldwide, avoiding the industry-standard mark-ups from agents, importers and distributors. What does this mean? More affordable, high-quality wines.

And because they’re all handcrafted in small,

sustainable vineyards, the wines tend to be organic or sometimes biodynamic (an even more holistic, ecological and ethical approach).

‘All our bottles are low in sulphates so if you only drank wines from us on a night out, you’d wake up the next morning feeling fine,’ explains general manager Marc Bosch, who encourages customers to try different varietals and regions before committing to a glass.

We settle on a Chenin Blanc (2011 Domaine Raymond Morin, La Jalousie) and a Sancerre (2013 Domaine Balland-Chapuis, Le Chatillet), both from the Loire. The first is peachy with hints of lemon meringue, the second is classic, creamy and ‘made by two blokes called Philippe’ according to the menu’s tasting notes, which are refreshingly unpretentious.

Pair your drinks with wine’s best friends: cheese and cured meats. Look out for regular events that bridge the gap between drinker and maker, and if you’re looking for a bespoke corporate event, try the bar’s History of Wine in London or a blind tasting challenge!

1 St Brides Passage, EC4Y 8EJ. T: 020-7583 0688. www.humblegrape.co.uk

THE REMEDY Relaxed, cosy, friendly – this bar and kitchen is run by three friends with a passion for wine.

Lesser-known regions, grapes and styles are celebrated, including ‘orange wines’ (whites emulating reds). Look out for Oyster Happy Hour(s) on weekdays from 4pm.

124 Cleveland St, W1T 6PG

SHEPHERD MARKET WINE HOUSE Indulge in an outstanding selection of Old and New World wines – choose from an ever-changing menu, handpicked by sommelier Ben Van de Meutter. ‘We only order six bottles of each, so when it’s gone it’s gone,’ he says. Cigars are also available to enjoy on the terrace.

21-23 Shepherd Market, W1J 7PN

SOCIAL WINE & TAPAS Social Wine & Tapas (above) is part-wine shop, part-tapas bar from acclaimed chef Jason Atherton – you have to order at least some food with any drink. All the waiters are sommeliers and rare wines are accessibly priced thanks to the Coravin system that enables glasses to be poured without pulling out the cork.

39 James St, W1U 1DL

humble grape courtesy of humble grape; social wine & tapas courtesy of social wine & tapas

Sam Rogg raises a glass to Humble Grape, a newly opened winery in Fleet Street, the former home of journalism

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map (p. 80-81)

Traditional Pubs

Bars & Clubs

The Blackfriar

Booking Office Bar

This splendid Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened more than 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk.

174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474.

E9. Station: Blackfriars.

This 95ft-long bar is surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

The Dog and Duck

This music venue at The O2 arena boasts a 12-lane bowling alley. www.brooklynbowl.com. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-7412 8778.

Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask

Brooklyn Bowl

City Social

This 17th-century pub boasts Lord Byron and Percy Bysshe Shelley as past patrons. www.theflask highgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

Jason Atherton offers spectacular food and drink surrounded by breathtaking views of London. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703.

D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

The George Inn

Freedom

This historic pub was established during the Medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Magpie & Stump

The gay-friendly spot attracts a trendy crowd. www.barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Gong

This pub was once a viewing spot for hangings. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

Located in The Shard, Gong is the highest Champagne bar in London. www.shangrila.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000.

F10. Station: London Bridge.

The Spaniards Inn

Gordon’s Wine Bar

Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including Dick Turpin and novelist Charles Dickens. www.the spaniardshampstead.co.uk. Spaniards Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890. www.gordonswine bar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

The Nightjar Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails in this basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most nights. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

Reverend JW Simpson This cocktail bar is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend, proved by the Blue Plaque outside. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.

Scarfes Bar Elegant bar named after Gerald Scarfe, famous for his satirical illustrations, which are dotted around the room. Enjoy cocktails and Indian-inspired snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. E7. Station: Holborn.

Searcys Champagne Bar Europe’s longest Champagne bar. www.searcys champagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

The Whisky Bar This specialist bar, at the Athenaeum hotel in Mayfair, offers 270 different types of whisky. www.athenaeumhotel.com. 116 Piccadilly, W1J 7BJ. T: 020-7640 3333. E6. Station: Green Park.

Casinos The Casino at the Empire There is a dedicated poker room. It also houses a contemporary Asian restaurant. www.thecasino lsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Hippodrome Casino This landmark venue has gaming on three floors, plus the Heliot Steak House. It also hosts live music, such as The Late Jazz Jam (every Thur from 11pm). www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888.

E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. www.the sportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Live Entertainment Angels Gentlemen’s Club Soho

Hidden beneath Marylebone’s highly acclaimed Bernardi’s Italian restaurant is a new sophisticated bar called The Dog House. Decorated in dark grey hues and dotted with candles and cosy nooks, this intimate space is the ideal place for a romantic drink. There’s even a courtyard to make the most of the mild nights. Choose from classic and modern Italian cocktails, beers, cider and wine. If you have a sweet tooth, try the Rose Negroni with vermouth, bitter orange and Negroamaro rosé. Those who prefer their cocktails a little more savoury will love the Dirty Negroni for its mix of Nocellara olives, infused Cittadelle gin, Belsazar Dry and Nardini Bitter. If you’re feeling peckish, the artisan Italian cheese board served with a sweet apricot chutney and crackers is sure to satisfy.

62 Seymour St, W1H 5BN. T: 020-3826 7940. www.bernardis.co.uk/the-dog-house.

D5. Station: Marble Arch

Ronnie Scott’s The world-famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians including Prince and Ella Fitzgerald.

There are acts every night. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747.

D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellows Celebrities and the public have enjoyed ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables. Entry is free to Stringfellows if you are dining. www.stringfellows. co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

bar courtesy of the dog house

Bellissimo!

Six show and cocktail stages plus Red Rooms, VIP booths and the Leopard Room where Peter Stringfellow’s ‘Angels’ dance at your table. The venue includes the Angel Bar and restaurant. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 201 Wardour St, W1F 8ZH. T: 020-7758 0670. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

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Introducing

G O . S E E . D O . LONDON

Illustration © Shutterstock/ Lisa Kolbasa

The best of London in one card Use across public transport Tickets and offers for the city’s top attractions Manage your travel money The Where® Pass is London’s new traveller’s ticket allowing visitors to experience top attractions with integrated discounts and transport. Incorporating contactless debit card technology and an interactive digital platform, visiting London has never been more convenient.

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17/08/2016 14/06/2016 17:04 16:24

SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE

Pieces of mind

Mind over matter As the stresses of a fast-paced life take their toll, it has become common practice to book treatments for the body, but it’s easier to forget about the mind. Say the word ‘mindfulness’, and you may assume that treatments about wellbeing are just a fad. More recently, however, there has been a rise in mindful treatments as spas understand the importance of giving clients a holistic experience.

Professor Mark Williams, former director of the Oxford Mindfulness Centre, says: ‘It’s easy to lose touch with the way our bodies are feeling and end up living “in our heads”. An important part of mindfulness is reconnecting with our bodies and the sensations they experience.’

One of the spas leading the way when it comes to mindful therapies is ESPA Life at Corinthia (above). The spa is the first in the UK to launch a suite of six mindful therapies which include massage, breathing, meditation, sleep and fitness sessions. Spa director Laura Vallati says: ‘I have studied mental and physical wellbeing for over 20 years in many cultures and parts of the world. Through my research I’ve found that the one approach to life that

seems to have profound effects on wellbeing, at all ages, is the practice of mindfulness.’

The aim of its Mindful Massage and Facial therapies (both £190; 90 min) is to make you feel more in the present. They both begin with breathing and visualisation exercises to help you relax, such as relearning how to breathe deeply from your diaphragm, before you are massaged.

The Mindful Breathing and Meditation therapies (from £120; from 60 min) are great for combating jet lag and insomnia. Both draw from the ancient practices of pranayama and yoga nidra. During the process, you feel as though you are in a deep sleep, and in this state you are receptive to positive suggestions.

Proving that treatments do not have to take place in a dark room with soothing music, there are also Mindful Fitness therapies (from £160; 90 min) where you can see the sights of London – in Park Power, you and a trainer do aerobic exercises in St James’s Park, while in River Rush you can run and reflect by the city’s skyline. You’ll have a beautiful mind in no time.

Whitehall Place, SW1A 2BD. T: 020-7321 3050. www.espalifeatcorinthia.com

Aman Spa The Aman Spa in Connaught Place offers complimentary 20-minute mindful meditation classes every day at 1pm. These are inspired

by Buddhist meditation, which encourages you to focus on the moment rather than the past or future anxieties. Must be pre-booked.

Carlos Place, W1K 2AL

Ushvani spa Ushvani is one of London’s most luxurious spas – no wonder it was voted the best UK day spa by Condé Nast. The spa, created by Usha Arumugam, draws inspiration from Asian treatments, so expect many of its therapies to use natural herbs, spices and flowers.

Its Sentosa Studio offers vinyasa flow yoga (£20; 90 min) and one-on-one classes to promote wellness for beginners and experts.

1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ

spa images courtesy of espa life at corinthia; woman meditating image © istock

Spas are not just for massages. Kohinoor Sahota looks at the rise of mindful therapies, from breathing classes to running along the River Thames

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spa images courtesy of espa life at corinthia; woman meditating image © istock

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway.

References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 80-81

Spas Aveda Institute Full-service salon offering cuts, colour, blow-drying and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. Beauty and spa treatments available, and there’s a special barber and grooming service for men. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Bamford Haybarn Spa This relaxing day spa has a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products including Oskia facials. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699.

F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Beauty Rooms at Fortnum & Mason Offers waxing, Sisley and Environ facials and nail treatments. Special packages include the Flagging Shopper, a foot and back massage. www.fortnumandmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 020-7973 4094. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa Swim in the 56ft pool, unwind in the sauna, steam room and relaxation suite or get a hair treatment. There is a choice of massages available. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011.

Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.

Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments, facials and massages for both men and women. Top brands include Nubo and Carita. www.brownshotel.com.

Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7.

Station: Bond Street.

Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 020-7973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Elemis Day Spa Situated in the heart of Mayfair, this spa has been designed to stimulate all the senses, with treatments ranging from anti-ageing facials to hands-on body therapies and detox programmes. www.elemis. com/dayspa. 2-3 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Gentlemen’s Tonic Stylish gentlemen-only grooming establishment with barber shop, body, skin and lifestyle treatments and a full range of products. Also available at St Pancras Renaissance Hotel. www.gentlemens tonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 0207297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Mandarin Oriental

One Aldwych This spa offers more than 50 personalised treatments, ranging from massages to beauty treats from brands such as Natura Bissé. Excellent health club and pool. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery London’s first men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional Hair of the Dog shave to full-blown luxury facials and deep-tissue massage.

Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com.

60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury from a team of spa mentors, offering a treatment menu including massage and traditional hammam exfoliation with a Kessa glove and black soap. www.dolphinsquare. co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

Spa Illuminata Enjoy the aromatherapy expertise of Carita, Decléor and Environ in this holistic skin and body-care haven. www.spailluminata.com.

63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777.

E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Urban Retreat at Harrods Enjoy myriad beauty treatments including massages, paraffin wax treatments and haircare, using top products. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Ushvani This plush, highly regarded day spa for massages and facials is an oasis of tranquility in Chelsea.

Couples should book the Asmara Suite, which is decorated with Malaysian furnishings and intricate carvings. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5.

Station: Sloane Square.

Salons Geo F Trumper This traditional barber shop in the heart of Mayfair offers wet shaves, toiletries and accessories for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will recreate it in under 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6.

Station: Bond Street.

By our beautiful therapists

De-stress, re-energising

MASSAGE Miss Makedima from Norway

Tailor made massage, the way you like it.

Reliable, quality service.

I specialize in rejuvenating Massage for jet-lag.

OPEN LATE Tel: 07827 301 930 M T as ha sa i ge

Exhausted, Stressed, Jet-Lagged?

Then why not relax with a traditional therapeutic Thai massage? Jade is a licensed and qualified Thai masseuse whose personalised, high-quality treatment is sure to bring your mind and body back into balance. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel or at her Chelsea studio.

Tel: 07894 700669

AVENA MASSAGE by qualified female masseuse.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Jo Hansford

A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods.

There is also a menu designed specifically for men and a well-equipped fitness centre. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

This hair colour salon is home to top stylists, and renowned also for its colour correction work.

The spa also offers manicure and pedicure treatments as well as massages and reflexology. www.johansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Mandara Spa

Windle & Moodie

Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. It has eight treatment rooms plus manicure and pedicure stations. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Award-winning full-service hair salon specialising in catwalk looks for the everyday woman. It uses Bumble & Bumble products. www.windleand moodie.com. 41 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Late appointments available www.wheretraveler.com 77

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE

Delivered to you by

TICKET INFORMATION The Where Pass is a contactless payment debit card, which you can use to hop on and off the transport system. See wherepasslondon.com.

An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card.

It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London.

You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £3 fee and pre-load it with credit at visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London.

Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon.

Oyster cards offer a discount on Emirates Air Line and most river buses. See visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

GETTING AROUND

For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

IN A SSO CIAT I O N W I T H

London Underground (The Tube)

ASK THE CONCIERGE Danny Wilkin, head concierge at London Marriott Hotel Grosvenor Square in Mayfair, shares his tips on London 1 Remember to use your concierge

4 Tell us about one of your hidden gems

Always introduce yourself as we’re here to answer your questions and make your trip enjoyable. We can help secure the best table or obtain the most difficult ticket to get in town – at the moment, most people are requesting tickets for Beautiful: The Carole King Musical. I’ve worked at London Marriott Hotel Grosvenor Square for 20 years and have been a concierge for nine.

My favourite is The Wallace Collection in nearby Manchester Square. It houses artworks from the 17th and 18th centuries, including Rembrandts and Gainsboroughs.

Its courtyard Wallace Restaurant is great for lunch or afternoon tea.

5 What do you recommend for

3 What areas would you recommend?

visitors with one day to spare?

See Changing the Guard at 11.30am, and then visit Buckingham Palace’s State Rooms.

After that, join a Big Bus sightseeing tour; get off at the Tower of London and take a boat to Westminster to see Big Ben, the London Eye and Westminster Abbey.

In the evening, have fish and chips at The Mayfair Chippy then catch a West End show.

Talk to your concierge for other things to do during your stay. For the latest Priceless London offers and experiences go to Pricelesslondon.co.uk

I like taking my family to the Diana Memorial Playground in Kensington Gardens and the Diana Memorial Fountain in Hyde Park.

Clockwise from top left: Big Ben; Low Tea at The Luggage Room; Beautiful: The Carole King Musical; Danny Wilkin

2 What makes your hotel special?

Our balcony suites have outdoor patios leading to a secret garden, and guests can dine at celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay’s Maze restaurant.

Our speakeasy bar, The Luggage Room, has a new Low Tea – it’s served on a low table, just as the upper classes enjoyed it in the 1920s, in old-fashioned wooden cases.

tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes.

The night Tube service runs all night Fri-Sat on the Victoria and the Central lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a London bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard, UK-issued contactless payment card or the Where Pass. Visit tfl.gov.uk/buses. Single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map opposite. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight and Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half mins to 10 mins. Mon-Sat 5.30am-12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands.

Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.

Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras International (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, and southeast England.

Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England.

For times and tickets, visit nationalrail.co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950.

Eurostar uses St Pancras International.

Go to eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (or if you’re outside the UK, call T: 01233-617 575).

BIG BEN © ISTOCK; LOW TEA COURTESY OF THE LUGGAGE ROOM; CASSIDY JANSON AS CAROLE KING IN BEAUTIFUL: THE CAROLE KING MUSICAL © BRINKHOFF; DANNY WILKIN IMAGE COURTESY OF LONDON MARRIOTT HOTEL

Oyster cards & Travelcards

78 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2016

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BIG BEN © ISTOCK; LOW TEA COURTESY OF THE LUGGAGE ROOM; CASSIDY JANSON AS CAROLE KING IN BEAUTIFUL: THE CAROLE KING MUSICAL © BRINKHOFF; DANNY WILKIN IMAGE COURTESY OF LONDON MARRIOTT HOTEL

ESSENTIALS

Same day luggage delivery between London’s airports and London locations. Visit portr.com and quote ‘ESSENTIALS’ for 10% discount.

8

9

Chesham

7

Chalfont & Latimer

Watford Junction

Chorleywood Rickmansworth

Northwood Hills

Ruislip

Hillingdon

Ruislip Manor Ickenham

Kenton

Harrowon-the-Hill

Preston Road

Brent Cross Golders Green

South Kenton

South Harrow

Neasden

Wembley Park

North Wembley

South Ruislip Sudbury Hill

Stonebridge Park Harlesden

Kensal Rise

Queen’s Park

Kilburn Park Maida Vale

Perivale

Brondesbury Kilburn High Road Paddington

Latimer Road East Acton

6 5 4 3

North Acton

Acton Central

Shepherd’s Bush Market

South Acton

Goldhawk Road

Ealing Common South Ealing

Acton Town

Northfields Chiswick Park Boston Manor

Hounslow Central

Kew Gardens

Hounslow West

Heathrow Terminal 5

West Kensington

Earl’s Court

South Kensington

Fulham Broadway Parsons Green

District Hammersmith & City Jubilee Metropolitan Northern Piccadilly

Tower Gateway

2

Southwark

Imperial Wharf

Borough Lambeth North

3

East Putney

Kennington

Wandsworth Road

Clapham Junction

Oval

Victoria Waterloo & City DLR Emirates Air Line cable car (Special fares apply) London Overground TfL Rail London Trams District open at weekends and on some public holidays

Stockwell

2

3

Denmark Hill

Clapham South

Step-free access from street to platform

3

National Rail Tooting Bec

Riverboat services Airport

Tooting Broadway

Merton Park

Colliers Wood

Victoria Coach Station

Emirates Air Line cable car

London Overground

4

South Tottenham to Barking No service from early June 2016 until February 2017.

Gospel Oak to Barking No weekend service until February 2017.

No weekday service from late September 2016 until February 2017.

Morden

Morden Road

Phipps Bridge

Belgrave Walk

Mitcham

Mitcham Junction

Beddington Lane

Therapia Lane

Ampere Way

Waddon Marsh

Royal Victoria

East India

Custom House for ExCeL

Emirates Royal Docks

Prince Regent

North Greenwich

Heron Quays

Royal Albert Beckton Park

Emirates Greenwich Peninsula

Pontoon Dock

Cyprus

London City Airport

Gallions Reach Beckton

King George V

Mudchute Island Gardens

Greenwich

New Cross

Deptford Bridge Elverson Road

Woolwich Arsenal

3

Forest Hill

Norwood Junction

Avenue Road

4

Church Street

Wellesley Road George Street

Beckenham Junction

Harrington Road Elmers End Arena

Special fares apply

Woodside

West Croydon

Wandle Park

Beckenham Road

Birkbeck

Penge West

Centrale

4

Lewisham

Sydenham

5

Reeves Corner

Canning Town

South Quay

Crystal Palace

South Wimbledon

3

Star Lane

Canary Wharf

Anerley

Balham

4

West Ham

West Silvertown

Brockley

Brixton

Upton Park Plaistow

Bromleyby-Bow

Blackwall

5

East Ham

Abbey Road

Poplar

Honor Oak Park

Clapham Common

Dundonald Road

Step-free access from street to train

Becontree Upney

Crossharbour

Peckham Rye

Clapham North

Interchange stations

Pudding Mill Lane

2/3

All Saints

Surrey Quays

6

Dagenham East

Barking

West India Quay

New Cross Gate

Elephant & Castle

Wimbledon Park

Stratford

Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich

Queens Road Peckham

Vauxhall

Southfields

Elm Park

Woodgrange Park

Forest Gate

Stratford High Street

Bow Church

Westferry

Canada Water

Bermondsey

Upminster Bridge Hornchurch

Maryland

Bow Road

Langdon Park

Wapping

Rotherhithe London Bridge

2

Devons Road

River Thames

Embankment

1

Pimlico

2

Upminster

Seven Kings Ilford

Manor Park

Wanstead Park

Hackney Wick

Mile End

Stepney Green

Shadwell

Tower Hill

Fenchurch Street

Blackfriars

Waterloo

2

Cambridge Heath

Limehouse

Temple

Clapham High Street

Circle

Monument

Aldgate

West Brompton

Wimbledon

Central

Bank St. Paul’s

Goodmayes

Gants Hill

Leytonstone

Emerson Park

Chadwell Heath

Newbury Park

Redbridge

Dagenham Heathway

Bethnal Green

Whitechapel

Romford

Barkingside

Wanstead

Leytonstone High Road

Gidea Park

Hainault Fairlop

Snaresbrook

Leyton

Putney Bridge

Heathrow Terminal 4

Bakerloo

1

Chancery Lane

Cannon Street

Aldgate East

Liverpool Street

Brentwood

Harold Wood

South Woodford

Stratford International

Homerton

Shoreditch High Street

Mansion House

Charing Cross St. James’s Park Westminster

Clapton

Bethnal Green

Barbican

Piccadilly Circus

Sloane Square

Hoxton

Farringdon

Holborn

Leyton Midland Road

Hackney Central

Canonbury

Old Street

Covent Garden

Victoria

Rectory Road

4 3

Walthamstow Central

St. James Street

London Fields

Leicester Square

Knightsbridge Gloucester Road

Dalston Kingsland

Haggerston

Moorgate Tottenham Court Road

High Street Kensington

Blackhorse Road

Dalston Junction

Russell Square Goodge Street

Green Park

Tottenham Hale

Hackney Downs

Caledonian Road & Barnsbury

Angel

Oxford Circus

Lancaster Gate

Highbury & Islington

Wood Street

Stamford Hill Walthamstow Queen’s Road Stoke Newington

Finsbury Park

King’s Cross St. Pancras

Euston Square

Regent’s Park

Bond Street

Hyde Park Corner

Kensington (Olympia)

Richmond

Hatton Cross

Queensway

Barons Court

Turnham Stamford Ravenscourt Brook Park Green Gunnersbury

Osterley

Notting Hill Gate

Holland Park

Mornington Crescent

Warren Street

Marble Arch

Shepherd’s Bush

Hammersmith

Hounslow East

Heathrow Terminals 2 & 3

White City

Wood Lane

Camden Road

Camden Town

Baker Great Portland Euston Street Street

1

Bayswater

Ladbroke Grove

Arsenal

Kentish Town

Chalk Farm

St. John’s Wood

Edgware Road

Westbourne Park Park Royal

North Ealing

2

Swiss Cottage

Marylebone

Edgware Road

Royal Oak

West Acton

Upper Holloway

Grange Hill

Shenfield

Chigwell Woodford

Bruce Grove South Tottenham

Seven Sisters

Holloway Road

Caledonian Road

Finchley Road

South Hampstead

Harringay Green Lanes

Manor House

Tufnell Park Kentish Town West

Roding Valley Highams Park

White Hart Lane

Wood Green

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5

Buckhurst Hill

Edmonton Green

Turnpike Lane

Archway

Belsize Park

West Hampstead

Warwick Avenue

Hanger Lane

Ealing Broadway

Finchley Road & Frognal

Kilburn Brondesbury Park

Kensal Green Alperton Greenford

Highgate

Loughton Chingford

Silver Street

Crouch Hill

Gospel Oak

Hampstead Heath

Hampstead

Willesden Green

Willesden Junction

Sudbury Town

Finchley Central East Finchley

Dollis Hill

Wembley Central

Northolt

Hendon Central

Kingsbury

Southgate Arnos Grove

West Finchley

Bounds Green

3

Colindale

Queensbury

Northwick Park

West Harrow

Mill Hill East

Burnt Oak

Canons Park

North Harrow

Rayners Lane

Ruislip Gardens

Stanmore

Harrow & Wealdstone

Pinner

Eastcote

Edgware

Headstone Lane

Turkey Street Southbury

Special fares apply

9

Epping Theydon Bois Debden

Oakwood

Woodside Park

4

Hatch End

Northwood

Theobalds Grove

Bush Hill Park

Cockfosters

Totteridge & Whetstone

Carpenders Park Moor Park

8 7

Cheshunt Enfield Town

High Barnet Bushey

Croxley

West Ruislip

Uxbridge

5

Watford High Street

Watford

Amersham

8 7 6

Special fares apply

Blackhorse Lane Addiscombe

Lebanon Road East Croydon

Sandilands

Lloyd Park Coombe Lane

Gravel Hill

Addington Village

Fieldway

King Henry’s Drive

New Addington

Services for these stations are subject to variation. Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details.

*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.

Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel

Taxis

Coaches

You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street.

Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs.

For more information, visit tfl.gov.uk.

London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234.

Victoria. tfl.gov.uk/coaches

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. enterprise.co.uk.

Congestion Charge There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14).

UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. cclondon.com.

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. tfl.gov.uk/legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bicycles for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London.

For details, visit tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 034-3222 6666.

Version J1 TfL 06.2016

Correct at time of going to print

River services tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 20 main piers.

Discounts on adult single fare with an Oyster, Visitor Oyster or contactless card. River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.

Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCel London). tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Accessible London Deaf and disabled travellers should visit DisabledGo at visitlondon.com/access and openbritain.net.

AirPortr (Luggage delivery service) PASS PARTNER Same-day luggage transfer between London’s airports and hotels – travel bag-free and make the most of your time here. Prices start at £15 for one bag plus £10 for each additional item (any size or weight). T: 020-3384 6677. portr.com.

Where Pass

The city of London is a magnificent place, bursting with things to see and do. The all-new Where Pass makes experiencing London convenient and hassle-free for travellers. Incorporating the latest in contactless debit card technology, users of the Where Pass are able to travel around using the public transport system, enjoy shopping and dining throughout the city, and gain discounted access into top attractions.

Immerse yourself in everything London has to offer with the Where Pass – visit www.wherepasslondon.com for details. www.wheretraveler.com 79

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WHERE NOW | JAMES LOWE

My London

To discover the best London has to offer, and to book your tickets to The Guest Series at Lyle’s, visit Priceless.com

CHEF AND RESTAURATEUR Michelin-starred chef Lowe launched Lyle’s in 2014.

Each month the restaurant hosts The Guest Series, where some of the most exciting chefs from across the world cook for two nights.

Born in Brighton, Lowe now lives in Wapping, east London What time would you wake up?

I think a perfect day requires a bit of a lie-in, as I would have been up late the night before.

Where do you live?

I live in Wapping. I love being right on the river; it’s calming. You are aware you are in the city, but there is a connection to nature which is nice.

What would be your perfect breakfast?

When I’m working I normally miss breakfast.

We eat at 11am as a staff team, so having breakfast is a sign I have time on my hands.

Scrambled eggs are one of my favourite things to eat – the best ones have lots of butter!

What are your favourite buildings?

I went to the new Tate Modern wing recently, which is amazing. One of my favourite things is Open House London.

A friend of mine is an architect, so he cherry picks the most interesting events where we can go behind closed doors to places people aren’t usually allowed to visit.

Where do you like to shop?

Some people buy everything online, but I much prefer the act of going to a shop.

My favourite kind of shopping is for food.

I love the wine shop P Franco in Clapton; Borough Market, which is not just for tourists but for foodies, too; and Spa Terminus, where you’ll find The Butchery and Fern Verrow, which sells produce from its biodynamic farm.

What are your favourite green spaces?

Victoria Park is amazing. Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park is beautiful. It grew wild in the early 1970s, and gives you a sign of what it would be like if people left London and it became overgrown.

How do you prefer to travel?

Bike! It’s the quickest way to get around. You’re not at the mercy of delays, and are outdoors.

What are your favourite bridges?

When I lived in south London, I loved cycling in each day. There was a moment when the city opened up all of a sudden. The nicest bridge is Waterloo Bridge, as it is right on the bend of the river and you get a great view either way.

What place holds a special memory?

St John near Smithfield Market in Clerkenwell.

It is a place I used to go to early in my career and it inspired me to open a restaurant.

Where do you like to have tea or coffee?

The best place for coffee is Lyle’s! We vary the roasters, and buy from all over.

What bars and pubs do you love?

The White Lyan in Hoxton is best for drinks and The Marksman, on Hackney Road, is a great east London pub with brilliant food.

Where do you like to eat out?

If someone else is paying, The River Café!

If I am, then it’s my favourite, 40 Maltby Street.

Tell us about Lyle’s restaurant.

It is a good place to see what is available in London on any given day. There is a set menu in the evening and an à la carte at lunch.

Right now, for example, there are lots of wild birds on the menu as we are in game season.

We get people from home and abroad who want to try modern British food.

Tell us about The Guest Series.

Since Lyle’s opened, I haven’t had time to travel or eat out as much, so I thought ‘instead of me going to places, bring them here’. We have chefs from Copenhagen and Bangkok. It is amazing for me, my chefs and guests to see something that you wouldn’t see in London.

What would be your ideal entertainment?

The cinemas here show the best foreign films.

I like Curzon Soho and Hackney Picturehouse.

Why is London the best city in the world?

It’s like the song, New York, New York – if you can make it here, you can make it anywhere!

The food scene in London is ever-changing and competitive. You are up against so many people, so to have a successful restaurant here means a lot. I also love that on any given day in London you can eat food from all over the world.

Lyle’s, Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High St, E1 6JJ. T: 020-3011 5911. www.lyleslondon.com Clockwise from top left: Tate Modern’s extension; James Lowe; Wapping; Victoria Park; Lyle’s

TATE MODERN © HAYES DAVIDSON AND HERZON & DE MEURON; JAMES LOWE © PER-ANDERS JORGENSON; WAPPING © ISTOCK; VICTORIA PARK © ISTOCK; LYLE’S © XAVIER GIRARD LACHAÎNE

JAMES LOWE

82 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2016

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