Where New Orleans April 2017

APRIL 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

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SWING DANCING MUSIC BOX VILLAGE DEVILISH EGGS PARLOR GAMES

RHYTHM AND HUES Collectible album art and music fest posters wheretraveler.com

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HOUMAS HOUSE Plantation and Gardens Houmas House Plantation and Gardens makes memories of legendary proportions. Tour the original plantation house built in the 1770s, stroll through 36 acres of breathtaking gardens, discover unique items at the gift shop, and dine at Houmas House’s exquisite restaurants. The Inn at Houmas House now offers 21 luxurious rooms for overnight stays. Plan your visit to the “Crown Jewel of Louisiana’s River Road” today!

Houmas House Plantation and Gardens 40136 Hwy 942 • Darrow, LA 70725 • 225-473-9380 • www.HoumasHouse.com

FOLLOW IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS It should have been impossible. Crossing the world’s widest ocean to answer an attack made by a powerful adversary.

Through hostile terrain and untold suffering, millions of Americans pushed past impossible to win the Pacific War. Follow in their footsteps on The Road to Tokyo, a new immersive experience at The National WWII Museum.

#1 Attraction in New Orleans #4 Museum in the United States

504.528.1944 | NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG

New Orleans CONTENTS

04.17

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the plan

the guide 22

11 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Adam Bartlett Windsor Court concierge.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus deviled eggs and outdoor tables.

12 Editor's Itinerary A 90-minute exploration of the Bayou St. John neighborhood to make the most of your time in the city.

XX 32 SHOPPING Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus rainy day gear and head-turning hats.

14 Hot Dates French Quarter Festival 1,700 musicians ÷ 24 stages = 1 great weekend, Jazzfest, Tremé Threauxdown and 28 other entertaining ideas to entertain.

GALLERIES &

40 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl. Plus Jazzfest artists put down roots and Andy Warhol lives.

50 ENTERTAINMENT XX Tours, attractions, museums, bars and music clubs. Plus a jazzed-up escape room.

58 XX

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus a Cajun country road trip.

ON THE COVER

APRIL 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

New Orleans

®

Johnny Hodges, Creamy, 1955, by

SWING DANCING MUSIC BOX VILLAGE DEVILISH EGGS

David Stone Martin.

PARLOR GAMES

©JAZZFESTGALLERY.COM.

16

where now

66 XX

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus picture-perfect plantation weddings.

16 Art + Culture RHYTHM AND HUES Collectible album art and music fest posters wheretraveler.com

E~NO-WM_170400_01_Cover.indd 2

3/8/17 12:24 PM

The art of music: Collectible festival posters and vintage album covers.

18 Out + About

Easter parades, swing dances and more music fests.

CONNECT WITH US

19 Music Scene

Inside the Music Box Village.

20 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

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Pork chop sandwiches, hot restaurant dish and red beans and rice for dessert.

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 69-71

(LEFT) ©ZACK SMITH/FQFI; (CENTER) ©ART4NOW.COM

72 Where Inside: New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for outdoor enthusiasts, history buffs and supernatural seekers.

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Adam Bartlett Concierge at the Windsor Court Hotel

Q: You started at the Windsor Court as a valet and chauffeur. Any advice for getting to/from this month’s music fests?

A: Walk; it’s probably the best way to see the city. Avoid driving as much as possible.

Q: Who are you most excited to see at this year's Jazzfest?

A: Widespread Panic and Dave Matthews are my two all-time favorites. I’ve seen Panic about 50 times; this will be my 90th Dave Matthews show. But also the enormous amount of local performers, like Eric Lindell and Tab Benoit.

Q: Where would you send guests for post-fest music?

A: Usually on Friday nights Café Negril (p.

56) has Jamey St. Pierre, who just tears the roof off of the place. He’s fantastic. Another favorite venue is Rock ’n’ Bowl (p. 56); if there’s one place for music that oozes New Orleans it’s that.

Q: Suggest a few spots for alfresco dining.

A: Herbsaint (p. 23) has tables right on St. Charles Avenue, and its chef was just nominated for a James Beard Award. Bacchanal (p. 30) and Bayou Wine Garden (p. 54) have cool outdoor atmospheres as well.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©HERBSAINT

Q: And for health-conscious cuisine?

A: In this day and age, almost any restaurant in the city. Café Carmo (p. 22), Green Goddess (p. 26) and Seed (p. 29) are mainly geared to vegetarians, but they really appeal to everybody.

Herbsaint

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EDITOR’S ITINERARY DOUG BRANTLEY NEWS TO TRAVEL BY

The Essential New Orleans Autumn in New York may bring the promise of new love, but it’s April in New Orleans that really makes visitors swoon. Outdoor music fests, alfresco dining, walks in the park, strolls along the bayou: Get out! Get out while you can, and soak up the city before the humidity hits.

90 MINUTES ON

Bayou St. John

IT’S WHY YOU SHOP.

Established in 1708, the Bayou St. John neighborhood, adjacent to the New Orleans Fair Grounds, was named for its main waterway, which has been central to local life since Native American days. The “Old Portage” marker on Moss Street notes the bayou’s importance as an early passage between Lake Pontchartrain and the river. The circa-1784 Old Spanish Custom House is the area’s oldest residence, while the 1799 Pitot House, home to the city’s second mayor, welcomes visitors. Other area highlights include St. John Court, a tucked-away, turn-of-the-20thcentury cul-de-sac; the po’boy haven Parkway Bakery; Kayak-iti-yat’s floating tours; and the annual Bayou Boogaloo music fest, which takes place each May. Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

in the world

333 Canal Street

www.theshopsatcanalplace.com

The Shops at Canal Place

12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

theshopsatcanal

504.522.9200

theshopsatcanalplace

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WHERE CALENDAR APRIL

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TOP STOPS

HOT

24 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining.

CHAMPIONS SQUARE Apr. 7: Bastille. 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

DATES

CIVIC THEATER Apr. 13: Zucchero; Apr. 28-29: moe.; Apr. 30: The Wailers. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865

FRENCH QUARTER FESTIVAL:

April 6-9

With more than 760,000 in attendance, French Quarter Fest 2016 is going to be hard to top. But “the largest showcase of Louisiana food and music in the world” is up for the challenge, with 1,700 musicians performing on 24 stages spread throughout the Vieux Carré. Now in its 34th year, the free fest continues to draw music lovers from around the globe and feature top-tier talents from across the state, including the legendary Aaron Neville, who makes his French Quarter Festival debut this year.

The fest also features free dance classes and film screenings, a juried art show and the “World’s Largest Jazz Brunch.” For a full lineup of participants and events, visit fqfi.org.

6

Great Things Not to Be Missed

KENNY CHESNEY > APRIL 8 The six-time Academy of Country Music winner joins forces with Oscar winner Matthew McConaughey and Super Bowl-winning quarterback Drew Brees for their third “Amazing Race” fundraiser at the House of Blues. How could you lose? 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583; hob.com 1

Brown Tremé Threauxdown

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

2 ARIANA GRANDE > APRIL 11 The reigning pop princess pulls into the Smoothie King Center on her “Dangerous Woman” tour. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

ZURICH CLASSIC > APRIL 2430 Now in its 59th year, the state’s premier PGA tourney mixes things up with a new two-man team format. TPC Louisiana, 11001 Lapalco Blvd., Avondale, 504.342.3000; zurichgolfclassic.com 3

14 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

ALTON BROWN > APRIL 26 The author and Food Network star returns to the Saenger Theatre with his new, interactive culinary variety show, “Eat Your Science.” 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 4

5 JAZZFEST > APRIL 2830 Usher, Maroon 5, Alabama Shakes, Lorde, Tom Petty & the Heartbreakers, Pitbull, George Benson and Harry Connick Jr. headline the opening weekend of the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, joined by nearly 200 additional acts and more than 150 Cuban performers. New Orleans Fair Grounds, 1751 Gentilly Blvd.; nojazzfest.com

TREMÉ THREAUXDOWN > APRIL 29 Fresh from touring with the Red Hot Chili Peppers, Troy “Trombone Shorty” Andrews and his Orleans Avenue band celebrate their annual April homecoming with Andra Day, Dumpstafunk and more special guests at the Saenger Theatre. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

JOY THEATER Apr. 11: Diamanda Galás; Apr. 13: Portugal.

The Man; Apr. 18: Honey Island Swamp Band; Apr. 21: Louie Anderson; Apr. 27-28: Dark Star Orchestra. 1200 Canal St., 800.745.3000 ORPHEUM THEATER Apr 14. Lisa Lampanelli; Apr. 21: Umpree’s McGee; Apr. 27: St. Paul & The Broken Bones; Apr. 28: Ben Harper & The Innocent Criminals; Apr. 29: The Meters 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870 SAENGER THEATRE Apr. 4-9: “The Bodyguard”; Apr. 18: Bob Weir; Apr. 21: Jim Gaffigan; Apr. 28: Gov’t Mule. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

6

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Apr. 3: Radiohead; Apr 7: Tim McGraw & Faith Hill. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

(TOP) ©ZACK SMITH/FQFI; (CENTER) ©ALTON BROWN; (BOTTOM) ©UNIVERSAL MUSIC ENTERPRISES

HOUSE OF BLUES Apr. 13: Marsha Ambrosius & Eric Benét; Apr. 26: Brandy Clark & Charlie Worsham; Apr. 28: The California Honeydrops; Apr. 29: David Shaw. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865

Martin Lawrence Galleries, New Orleans, invites you to discover the bold artistry of contemporary master Mark Kostabi.

ARTIST RECEPTION

Saturday, April 29, 6–8pm RSVP (504) 299-9055 O N E X H I B I T T H R O U G H M AY 19 EXHIBITING WORKS BY

Warhol, Picasso, Nicholls, Murakami, Mas, Lalonde, Kostabi, Kondakova, Hofmann, Haring, Hallam, Francis, Erté, Deyber, Dalí, Chagall, Bertho + others.

Martin•Lawrence Galleries 433 Royal Street, New Orleans Across from the Courthouse M A R T I N L AW R E N C E .C O M • 4 3 3 R OYA L@ M A R T I N L AW R E N C E .C O M If You Can Dream It You Can Do It, oil on canvas, 27.5 x 15.625 inches © 2017 Mark Kostabi

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Music to Our Eyes

Francis X. Pavy’s 2017 Jazzfest poster 16 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Jazz up your surroundings with the art of music—from fresh-off-the-press posters to vintage album covers.

w w w.wheretrave ler.c o m

RHYTHM AND HUES

On the Record

How art and music intersect Music festival season is here, and with it comes vibrant collectible art. Anticipation is high each year for posters from the French Quarter Festival and New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Fest. The posters exist because of the festivals, but how key is music itself to their creators? We asked four notables to weigh in. —MICHAEL ALLEN ZELL

(TOP AND BOTTOM LEFT) ©FQFI; (CENTER) ©ART4NOW.COM; (BOTTOM RIGHT) ©JAZZFEST GALLERY; (OPENING PAGE) ©ART4NOW.COM

ISABELLE JACOPIN Sometimes it takes an outside eye to notice what’s hidden in the open. French native and 2016 French Quarter Festival poster artist Isabelle Jacopin sees the street parade from a unique vantage point.

“Music absolutely inspires me,” says Jacopin, “every aspect of New Orleans, too.

For me, the brass band—the second line—is a big subject.

In a brass band, the tuba is the heart, the life. You see things in the reflection of the tuba. You see the sky, the people. Sometimes I’m in the reflection.”

TONY GREEN This year’s French Quarter

Fest poster artist, Tony Green, who splits his time between New Orleans and Venice, Italy, may be the first artist to also perform at the fest; catch him April 9.

“I’ve always considered myself to be a painter who plays music as opposed to a musician who paints,” says Green.

“I feel that I have a deeper understanding of the musician’s hands, facial expressions and general aura of divine creativity that’s being shared with the audience. I try to inject a sense of rhythm into my compositions, while creating visual crescendos through the use of color dynamics.”

FRANCIS X. PAVY Born on Mardi Gras Day in Lafayette, La., it’s little surprise Francis X. Pavy’s vibrant paintings, including this year’s Jazzfest poster of The Meters, are infused with regional motifs.

“I’ve always had music as a muse,” says Pavy. “I think in pictures; generally there’s a narrative. That’s a foundation of my basic technique. It boils through; it shows. The Meters used to come to Lafayette

and play back when I was in college. I was blown away. I pictured them as I remembered them from the early 1970s.”

JAMES MICHALOPOULOS Currently on view in “Waltzing the Muse,” a career retrospective at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, the signature swaying buildings in James Michalopoulos’ paintings are immediately identifiable. He’s also created six Jazzfest posters over the years, from Dr. John to Aaron Neville.

“Music permeates the culture in New Orleans,” says Michalopoulos. “Whatever I’m doing, the beat isn’t far away.

When I make a poster that’s concerned with an artist, I listen only to their music. I want it to marinate and influence the work. Part of the reason I’m in New Orleans is rhythm and movement. There is an effect by being surrounded with so much live music. The groove is what makes the buildings move.”

Solid gold album art During the 1940s and ’50s, illustrator David Stone Martin created hundreds of album covers for Asch, Verve and other legendary jazz labels. Charlie Parker, Billie Holiday, Lionel Hampton and Stan Getz are just a few of the many music greats captured in his iconic line drawings, which are counted among the collections of the Museum of Modern Art, the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Smithsonian Institute.

Martin would go on to work for Life magazine and create cover portraits of such political figures as Robert F. Kennedy, Eugene McCarthy and Mao Zedong for Time, but it’s his album art that defined his 50-year career.

Martin is now making a comeback via the JazzFest Gallery, the exclusive dealer of his images. The New Orleans-based online retailer offers museum-stock, fine art prints produced from vintage-edition plates.

You’ll find a curated selection of Martin’s most popular prints at The Shops at 2011 Magazine (p. 37). jazzfestgallery.com; 504.218.0304, by appointment only

17

Orleans The Rest of the Fests More music? Right this way.

NEW ORLEANS RAGTIME FESTIVAL Aimed at reviving the late 19thcentury music genre, this fledgling fest marks its second year—and the centennial of Scott “King of Ragtime” Joplin’s death—with daylong performances at the Old U.S. Mint April 2. 400 Esplanade Ave., 3rd fl.; theneworleansragtimefestival.com WEDNESDAYS AT THE SQUARE These free, weekly concerts begin at 5 pm, with headliners performing at 6:30 pm. April 5: George Porter Jr. & Runnin’ Pardners; April 12: Jon Cleary; April 19: Big Sam’s Funky Nation; April 26: Flow Tribe.

Lafayette Square, St. Charles Ave. and Lafayette St.; ylcnola.org JAZZ IN THE PARK Free performances also take place at Armstrong Park each Thursday, with music beginning at 4 pm and headliners taking the stage at 6 pm. April 13: Preservation Hall All Stars; April 20: Bag of Donuts; April

OUT+ABOUT

Hop to It In other cities Easter means egg hunts; in New Orleans it’s all about parades. Sure, there’s the annual NOMA Egg Hunt & Family Festival at the New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 54) April 1, but big kids will want to roll with NOLA Bunarchy, a bunny-themed costumed bar hop through the Marigny neighborhood April 15. The next morning grab a bonnet and head out to the Historic French Quarter Easter Parade, which kicks off at 9:45 am from Antoine’s (p. 24) en route to Jackson Square. The Chris Owens Easter Parade follows at 1 pm, beginning at Royal and St. Louis streets. The day culminates with the Gay Easter Parade, an over-the-top eggstravaganza that gets cracking at 4:30 pm at Armstrong Park (p. 50).

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27: Kermit Ruffins. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets; pufap.org ABITA SPRINGS BUSKER FESTIVAL The city goes silent April 23 when New Orleans’ street musicians head to Abita Springs. Spotlighting the best of the best, this free afternoon affair provides a perfect warm-up to Jazzfest, which cosponsors the event. trailheadmuseum.org/ busker-festival FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL DE LOUISIANE Think Jazzfest but with a decidedly French accent and more room to dance. Celebrating 31 years of celebrating Francophone music, this free April 26-30 fest is spread throughout downtown Lafayette in the heart of Cajun country. festivalinternational.org

Festival International

THE SWING OF THINGS Popular during the 1930s and ’40s, in recent years swing dancing has made a resurgence in the Crescent City with groups such as the NOLA Jitterbugs introducing a new generation to the Lindy Hop. You’ll find the Jitterbugs conducting free daily dance lessons during this month’s French Quarter Festival, and weekly at d.b.a. (Tuesdays at 6 pm; p. 56), Crescent City Swing (Thursdays at 7:30 pm; crescentcityswing.com), Bamboula’s (Fridays at 1 pm; bamboulas.com) and Maison (Sundays at 10 am; maisonfrenchmen.com). Three Keys (p. 56) gets in the mood with its free Saints & Sinners Sunday Swing, while Rock ’n’ Bowl (p.

56) offers live swing bands each Wednesday at 8 pm.

(LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©CHERYL GERBER/NOCVB; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©JOSH BRASTED

WHERE NOW New

MUSIC SCENE

Village People Strange noises waft out of a former warehouse near “the end of the world” (where the Industrial Canal meets the Mississippi in the Bywater neighborhood), calling the curious to the Music Box Village, one of the city’s newest and most creative music venues. More than 80 artists helped construct the 10,000-squarefoot sound art installation/performance space, a conglomeration of ramshackle huts that double as instruments, which visitors—and visiting acts—are encouraged to get hands-on with. Sliding doors connect to an amplified slide guitar; wind chimes are tuned to musical notes; a phone booth is outfitted with microphones and spinning speakers; stairs morph into keyboards. Come early to make your own kind of music then settle in for a performance by the likes of Norah Jones, Gogol Bordello, Big Freedia, Tank and the Bangas and the Grammy-nominated Lost Bayou Ramblers. For public hours and current performance schedule, visit musicboxvillage.com.

Gogol Bordello’s Eugene Hütz performing at the Music Box Village 19

Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, now and not to be missed.

Toups South FOOD+DRINK

Talking Chop For many Miss Linda Green’s bone-in pork chop sandwich is a Jazzfest food must-have. Served from her booth alongside her immensely popular “ya-ka-mein” soup, the simple sandwich is nothing more than a lightly seasoned flour-dunked chop, quickly deep fried and placed between two slices of soft, unassuming, totally delectable white bread swiped with mayonnaise. A perfect snack to fortify dancing/festing feet.

Though it may not sound like much, there is some history to the pork chop sandwich, which is growing in popularity and featured in up-market renditions.

While this simple sandwich is getting some culinary world attention, it is not new, nor is it unique to the Southern food canon. Several cities lay claim to inventing it. In Mount Airy, N.C., it’s all about Snappy Lunch; in Chicago, there’s Maxwell Street Depot’s; and in Butte, Mt., Pork Chop John’s version is said to have inspired a sandwich at New York’s late fine-dining restaurant Chanterelle. All these sandwiches differ from New Orleans’ though in one significant way: the bread. Rather than white bread, most others use hamburger buns.

Bone-in or boneless, the pork chop sandwich is a food of convenience for its portability, and some

surmise the bread keeps hands virtually grease-free. Miss Linda’s sandwich is bone-in because “the bone has the flavor, baby!” The chops are deep fried, though for the annual Oak Street Po’ Boy Fest, she serves her slim, crisp chop on French bread.

But pork chop sandwiches aren’t just a festival food staple; you’ll spot them on the menu at Creole soul restaurants and corner stores citywide. Not far from the Fair Grounds, Dooky Chase (p.

30) serves its double-cut chop with bread on the side; ditto for Lil Dizzy’s (1500 Esplanade Ave., 504.569.8997) pork chop special with garlic butter. And at Toups South (p. 24), chef Isaac Toups pays homage to Miss Linda with his “Fried Bone-In Pork Chop Stack” with pickled summer squash, coffee aioli and, of course, white bread. —Lorin Gaudin

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GRACIOUS BAKERY Pastry master Megan Forman has opened a second café location steps off the St. Charles streetcar line. Gorgeous, handcrafted, buttery baked goods fill the counter.

Order an iced coffee (made with special crunchy ice!) and a house bagel with house-cured smoked salmon and lemon-caper cream cheese, and watch the streetcar roll by. Be sure to grab a bag of the flourless chocolate raspberry bites before heading out. 2854 St. Charles Ave., 504.301.9949 SIMONE’S MARKET Simone Reggie knows area farmers and local product. At her Riverbend grocery, shelves are stocked with thoughtfully selected regional products. She’s also got Lafayette native and chef-inresidence Ashley Roussel cooking up prepared foods and daily deli specials (Scotch eggs, smoked

fried chicken thigh sandwiches).

Lucky are visitors there when the grape leaves are available. 8207 Oak St., 504.273.7706 RUBY SLIPPER This local breakfast chain’s new Garden District outpost has locally roasted coffee and signature “Benedicts” with Louisiana flavors (braised pork, Gulf shrimp, tasso).

Depending on your morning tastes (savory vs. sweet), there are plenty of options. Consider the “Bananas Foster Pain Perdu” (aka French toast) or barbecue shrimp and grits. There are no wrong decisions on the massive menu. 200 Magazine St., 504.525.9355 —LG

Gracious Bakery

LAST BITE Beloved local chef Michael Gulotta (recently nominated for the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef South” award) is well known for his big flavors and riffs on Vietnamese dishes at MoPho (p. 30). His most recent venture, Maypop (p. 23), also goes with punch-in-the-face herbs and spices, this time reading more India and Thailand with a Louisiana vibe. To close a meal, there are several intriguing desserts, but the one that says it all is “Red Beans and Rice”—a red bean-and-andouille tart with toastedrice ice cream, candied red beans, grapefruit and ginger. Encompassing all the elements of savory, sweet, tart, smooth and crisp, it is also earthy, bright and a total dream invader. —LG

(TOP) ©DENNY CULBERT; (CENTER) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©MAYPOP

WHERE NOW New

the guide Dining April

Deviled Egg Hunt

Vine Dining

Colorful dyed eggs are an Easter essential, but delicious deviled eggs are a New Orleans restaurant menu standard year-round. Turkey and the Wolf (p. 29) doubles the Southern comfort with creamy yolk filling topped with fried chicken skin and dots of hot sauce. At Petit Lion (p. 23; shown left) eggs are stuffed with crabmeat then crowned with potato crisps and smoked caviar. Smoked trout-filled eggs adorned with trout roe and pickled jalapeno are a must-have at Toups’ Meatery (p. 31), while Galatoire’s 33 (p. 26; shown center) couples its half-dozen sampler of smoked trout, crab ravigote and ghost pepper caviar varieties with a trio of boiled shrimp.

Springtime temps call for alfresco dining.

Grab a table under the wisteria-vine canopy at the Court of Two Sisters (p. 26) or Broussard’s (p. 25), which claims the French Quarter’s oldest and largest wisteria. The lavender-hued vine also charms at Café Amelie (p. 25), former home of America’s first Princess of Monaco.

THE AMERICAN SECTOR— American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 BALISE— French. Chef Justin Devillier of La Petite

Grocery and “Top Chef” fame now has a second space in a beautifully restored 1830s building with cool art, smart cocktails and a small menu with depth. Must-haves include the fried smoked oysters and chicken and ricotta dumplings. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.balisenola.com.

640 Carondelet St., 504.459.4449. Map 3, C5 BORGNE— Seafood. At this seafood-centric John

Besh restaurant (helmed by mega-talented chef Brian Landry), fantastic apps (such as duck-andjalapeno poppers) partner swimmingly with easy-going sandwiches, fish cooked “in a bag” and more. $$ L, D (daily). www.borgnerestaurant.

22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

com. 601 Loyola Ave. (in the Hyatt Regency Hotel), 504.613.3860. Map 3, C3 CAFÉ CARMO— International. This island-inspired

space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious—dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich (a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork) and shrimp-filled black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. $ L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.cafecarmo.com. 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS— Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON— Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (M-Sa).

www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGER—American. Adam Biderman’s

award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Hand-ground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; house-made mayo and pickles; freshbaked buns. Add a side of hand-cut, twice-cooked fries...and dig in. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN— Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER— Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching

(LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER) ©GALATOIRE’S 33; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Central Business/ Warehouse District

DINING

the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 DOMENICA— Italian. Inspired by traditional Sunday

Italian family feasts (hence its name), this hot spot is counted among celebrated local chef John Besh’s growing family of restaurants. Dive into out-ofthe-norm antipasta (octopus carpaccio, roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3

EMERIL’S— Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship

sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (daily). www.emerils.com.

800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 HERBSAINT— French. James Beard Award-winning

chef Donald Link’s entrées range from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com.

701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5

JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ— Mexican. Squash blossom

tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chefs (and old friends) John Besh and Aarón Sánchez teamed to create this hip eatery, which puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www.johnnysanchezrestaurant. com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE— Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery, snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. The “Peanut Butter Pie Budino” is a must for dessert. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Sa-Su, brunch. www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MAYPOP—Vietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken with crispy sticky rice cubes and pickled mirliton. $$$ L, D (daily). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL— International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 PÊCHE— Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 PETIT LION— Eclectic. Chef Phillip Lopez (Root/

Square Root) partnered with the Troubadour Hotel on this sleek, modern space with upscale bistro food. Dive into a big bucket of mussels in coconutcurry broth or the smoky double-patty burger.

Cocktails are excellent; desserts are divine. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.petitlionnola.com. 1111 Gravier St., 504.518.5500. Map 3, D3 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL— American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap (including a full line of locally made Abita brews), live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY— Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 RESTAURANT AUGUST— French. In New Orleans,

chefs are as famous as rock stars, and John Besh is the city’s culinary Sting. He knows the classics, he’s bold in his experimentation and he’s got a w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

THE GUIDE

vision. The dining rooms are elegant, and the food is spectacular, as Besh combines European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.restaurantaugust.com. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHY—Seafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s award-winning Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. $$ D (daily). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 TOMMY G’S PIZZERIA & BAR— Italian. Convenient

to the Convention Center, this casual spot serves subs, a variety of pasta entrees, house-made lasagna, calzones and pizza whole or by the slice. $ L, D, (daily). www.tommygspizzeria.com. 901 Convention Center Blvd., 504.561.8881. Map 3, C8 WILLA JEAN BAKERY— Bakery. Pastry chefs Lisa

White and Kelly Fields, known for their beautiful baked goods, show off their savory sides as well in dishes such as corn-and-crab fritters and lamb pot pie. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ— Barbecue. Pit master Rob

Bechtold turns out stellar barbecue and out-ofthe-norm sides at his sprawling smokehouse.

Smoke-ringed brisket, toothy-tender ribs, crispy burnt ends, umami pickles, remoulade potato salad—order up! $$ L (Th-M). www.centralcitybbq. com. 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3 MAÏS AREPAS— Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian

restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS SOUTH—Southern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Su brunch. www.toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE— Seafood. For locals, the

name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell.

Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’ boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANGELINE—Southern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the Gulf shrimp and country ham with butterbeans and sweet potatoes. $$$ D (W-Su); brunch (F-Su). www.angelinenola. com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

ANTOINE’S— Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S— Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal

over the decades, which is part of its charm.

Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brulot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); Su jazz brunch. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA— American. Nestled in a 200-year-old

Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa),

DINING

D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE— Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S— Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S— Creole. Recently renovated, Brous-

sard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Neal Swindler serves up modern Creole cuisine, along with Old World classics. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.broussards. com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ AMELIE— Louisiana. Located in a gorgeous

French Quarter courtyard and carriage house, this is the perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor

lunch or romantic dinner. Try the crab cakes with citrus drizzle, satsuma-pepper glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. $$ L (W-Su), D (W-Su); Sa-Su brunch. A quick-service offshoot, Petite Amelie, offers takeout just next door (900 Royal St., 412-8065). www.cafeamelie.com. 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ BEIGNET— Coffee. Light fare, café drinks,

and delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www.cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE— Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CANE & TABLE— Cuban. This rum-centric restau-

rant provides a taste of the tropics and the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu in dishes such as jerk chicken, plantain dumplings and deep-fried ribs with papaya chutney. $$ L (F), D (nightly); brunch, Sa-Su. www.caneandtablenola. com. 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 70-72.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................22

Central City..................................................................................................24 French Quarter........................................................................................24 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 29 Marigny/Bywater............................................................................ .......30 Mid-City..........................................................................................................30 Uptown..........................................................................................................31

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

CENTRAL GROCERY— Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L, D (Daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS— Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, make for a memorable dining experience. $$ L, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE— Louisiana. The

French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the baby back ribs, crabmeat-stuffed shrimp and fresh grilled redfish with soft-shell crab. Live jazz nightly (no cover). $$ L, D (daily). www.crescentcitybrewhouse. com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE— Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces (try the barbecue ribeye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters). Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN— Steaks. A stunning steak-

house and butcher shop featuring superior quality dry-aged meats. A full remodel of the historic space is alone worth a visit, though the hungerinducing menu also impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ D (nightly), L (F-Su). www.dorismetropolitan. com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 GALATOIRE’S— Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GALATOIRE’S 33 BAR & STEAK— Steaks. This

modern-day steakhouse adds a new chapter to Galatoire’s century-old story. Craft cocktails and USDA prime cuts are the focus, along with beef Wellington, lobster Thermidor and classic sides. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www.galatoires33barandsteak. com. 215 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GREEN GODDESS— Eclectic. Chef Paul Artigues

creates big-flavored, adventurous dishes in the tiny kitchen of this intimate Exchange Alley gem.

Possibly the only place in town you’ll find beet hummus and truffle grits sharing menu space with wild-boar meatloaf and decadent bacon sundaes. $ L, D (W-Su). www.greengoddessrestaurant.com.

307 Exchange Pl., 504.301.3347. Map 3, E4 GW FINS— Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn have

taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

DINING Locally Inspired, Nationally Recognized Palace Cafe

HARD ROCK CAFÉ— American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 ITALIAN BARREL— Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Bourbon House

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 K-PAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN— Louisiana. Chef-

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER PO’BOYS— Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

Tableau

www.FrenchQuarter-Dining.com

504.274.1958

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ Dauphine St.: B, L (W-M); Conti St.: L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys.com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL— American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 MORTON’S— Steaks. Located just steps from the

where you are. ®

(and where you’re going.)

All the latest buzz about the city from the experts at Where Magazine.

Shopping, dining, attractions, it’s all here 24/7.

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO— Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce and the white chocolate brownie. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 MURIEL’S JACKSON SQUARE— Creole. Overlooking

Jackson Square, Muriel’s features several dining rooms and a cozy bar. Enjoy chef Erik Venéy’s contemporary Creole dishes such as crawfish-andgoat cheese crepes. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.muriels.com. 801 Chartres St., 504.568.1885. Map 3, G4 NAPOLEON HOUSE— Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (Daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY— Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NOLA— American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro is a perennial hot spot. The menu is filled with Emeril creations such as Louisiana crab cakes with Creole tartar sauce, pork cheek boudin balls with tomato-bacon jam and a grilled double-cut pork chop with pecan-glazed sweet potatoes. $$ L (Th-M), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP— Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ— Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 PELICAN CLUB— Louisiana. A well-kept secret of

savvy gourmets. Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors. The seared tuna with Gulf shrimp is excellent, as are the roasted baby lamb rack, filet of tenderloin with wild mushroom sauce. $$ D (daily). www.pelicanclub.com. 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Live Jazz • Real Food • Serious Beer 527 Decatur St. • 504.522.0571 www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com

Live Jazz Nightly (no cover)

RED FISH GRILL— Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE— Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated; try the turtle soup, shrimp remoulade or oysters from the raw bar. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION— Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SALON BY SUCRÉ— Eclectic. Pastry chef extraordi-

naire Tariq Hanna’s homage to haute cuisine is a reflection of his passion for presentation of dishes both savory and sweet. Upstairs is the place for afternoon tea, a glass of wine and daily protein selections that can be ordered as an app or main course.

Downstairs it’s all about Hanna’s amazing desserts. $$ Brunch, D (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon.com.

622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

Oyster Happy Hour from 3-6pm. Monday-Friday. .50 Raw & $1.00 char-grilled with an adult beverage purchase.

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

DINING

STANLEY— Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambi-

ance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner.

The adventuresome can try the Korean beef po’ boy or the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, corned beef hash and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com. 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 SYLVAIN— Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dan-

gle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU— Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE— Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE— French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 ROOT/SQUARE ROOT— Contemporary. Two hip

restaurants in one. Upstairs the focus is on chef Phillip Lopez’s contemporary twists on culinary standards and creative charcuterie. Downstairs centers around 16 seats flanking an open kitchen and Lopez’s multi-course tasting menu (online reservations only). $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.squarerootnola. com. 1800 Magazine St., 504.309.7800. Map 1, D4 SEED—Vegetarian. Chef Edward Rhinehart mixes

and matches natural ingredients to create mangoand-kale salads, fried eggplant po’boys and vegetable spaghetti. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.seedyourhealth.com. 1330 Prytania St., 504.302.2599.

SUCRÉ— Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for

the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre.com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti. St., 504.708.4366. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2 TURKEY AND THE WOLF— Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and hot mustard, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L, D (W-Su). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

THE GUIDE Enjoy the finest Northern Italian Cuisine & New Orleans Seafood

Marigny/Bywater

Get there in style, with pick-up and delivery in our stretch limo!

BACCHANAL— Eclectic. A Sunday-only treasure no

Est. 1985

more. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is now a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard.

Upstaris offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3

Open 7 days for Lunch & Dinner and all major holidays.

LUNCH

THE COUNTRY CLUB— Louisiana. Known for its swim-

Monday-Saturday, 11 am-3 pm Sunday Champagne

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crawfish beignets, bone marrow tartine), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Sa-Su (brunch). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3

BRUNCH

11 am – 3 pm.

DINNER

Sunday – Thursday 3:00 – 9:00 pm Capri Blu Lounge & Bar open every day, 11 am until close

PIZZA DELICIOUS— Italian. This pop-up pizzeria

grew so popular that it now has its own brickand-mortar space. New York-style pies with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.pizzadelcious.com. 617 Piety St.,, 504.676.8482. Map 1, E3

HAPPY HOUR

Monday – Friday 4-7 pm

PRALINE CONNECTION— Creole. Soul food at its

3100 19th St. at Ridgelake Metairie, LA 70002 Near Lakeside Shopping Center

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5

504.834.8583

www.andreasrestaurant.com

ST. ROCH MARKET— Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com.

2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ— Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

DOOKY CHASE— Creole. One of the oldest African-

American restaurants in the nation. Chef Leah Chase, “the Queen of Creole Cuisine,” has built a large and loyal following with classic dishes, such as her seemingly simple red beans and rice, steaming gumbo and crispy-yet-tender fried chicken. $$ L (Tu-F), D (F). www.dookychaserestaurant.com.

2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3 MOPHO— Vietnamese. Chef Mike Gulotta rocks

modern Vietnamese-inspired dishes at his naughty-named restaurant near the Canal streetcar line. The sweet-and-spicy chicken wings and pepper jelly-glazed clams are must-haves. $$ L, D (daily). www.mophonola.com. 514 City Park Ave., 504.482.6845. Map 1, D2 RALPH’S ON THE PARK— Louisiana. Veteran

restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park.

One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017 NO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

DINING

Riverside Dining

“Home of the Steamed Seafood Bucket”

SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER Across from Harrah’s Casino

Enjoy one of our filing seafood buckets

•Royal Bucket •Bourbon St. Combo (Boiled Shrimp & Snow Crab)

TOUPS’ MEATERY— Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown AVO— Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with eggplant and cranberries, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE— Southern. Looking for a great off-the-

504-569-3380 Certificate of Excellence winner.

www.thecrazylobster.com

Finish your Jazz Festival with drinks and dinner at our Spanish Plaza inside the restaurant on our patio.

beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathaniel Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’ boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 BRIGTSEN’S— Creole. . A protegé of Paul Prud-

homme, chef Frank Brigtsen serves up food that is rooted in Louisiana tradition, but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.brigtsens.com. 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3 CAVAN—Seafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s casual coastal cuisine. Start with the clam chowder or catfish Hoppin’ John before moving on to the seared Gulf fish. Or just grab a cocktail at the bar, while munching on Old Bay-seasoned fries. $$ B (F-Su), D (nightly). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 KENTON’S—American. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon). Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant. com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY— French. What once was a

corner grocery has been exquisitely transformed into an intimate French bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.lapetitegrocery.com.

4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE— American. A New Orleans

landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food.

Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 SHAYA— Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of

Israel at this modern Mediterranean eatery from chef Alon Shaya of restaurant Domenica fame.

Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees such as slow-cooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant. com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 31

THE GUIDE

Shopping

Make a Splash

Mad Hatters

April showers might bring May flowers, but they can also turn a day at the Fair Grounds into a muddy mess. In recent years rain boots have become a Jazzfest fashion statement and umbrellas more than just a necessity. Shoe Be Do (p. 38), Feet First (p. 38) and Fleurty Girl (p. 32) are great go-tos for glammed-up galoshes featuring everything from fleurs de lis to animal prints. Vintage Crescent City street map umbrellas are found at the Historic New Orleans Collection (p. 54), while Mignon Faget (p. 37) caters to fest-goers with music note-embellished versions and Bella Umbrella (p. 36) brightens gray skies with its colorful pagoda designs.

This month’s Easter parades and outdoor music festivals call for some seriously cool headwear. Meyer the Hatter (p. 36) is the South’s largest haberdashery and one of the nation’s oldest, while fresh takes on retro designs is Goorin Bros.’ (p. 36) claim to fame. For a real head-turner head to Fleur de Paris (p. 36).

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP— Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS— For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY— There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. www.louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5 SKULLY’Z RECORDZ— This small music shop is big

on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings.

Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing BILLY REID— Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4

DEFEND NEW ORLEANS— Hidden

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

cents. www.hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., along a residential stretch just off 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 Magazine Street, Defend New Orleans wheretraveler.com HEMLINE— Fashion-forward clothing, is part T-shirt shop, part boutique shoes, accessories and such sought-after and part home store. With its iconic lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this found here. www.shophemline.com. 609 Chartres hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city.

St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3308 Magazine St., www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., 504.269.4005. Map 1, D4 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., JACI BLUE— At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous, 504.324.7463. Map 1, C5 fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accesDIRTY COAST— Just when you thought New Orleans sories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your stan504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 dard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals KIT AND ACE—This lululemon offshoot is known for and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs its line of “technical cashmere” clothing. Geared to feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityboth sexes, the chic shop’s luxe street wear is both inspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal versatile and machine-washable. www.kitandace.

St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., com. 3913 Magazine St., 844.548.6223. Map 1, D4 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 FLEURTY GIRL— When Lauren Thom began printing

T-shirts in her kitchen in 2009 little did she know just how big the small venture would quickly become. Today her popular designs celebrating local culture are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net.

3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3 H&M— This Swedish-based retail chain is known

around the globe for its fab fashions and hardto-resist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with hip home ac-

NOLA TIL YA DIE—Why just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie. com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 TRASHY DIVA— Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with

DURING FRENCH QUARTER FEST 2016, Abita Brewing Company served 675 kegs and 1,400 cases of beer, while New Orleans Original Daiquiris sold 42,000-plus drinks.

32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

(LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT) ©GOORIN BROS.

Books & Music

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www. louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 70-72.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 32

Clothing........................................................................................................ 32 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 34 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 36 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 36 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 36 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 37 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 37 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 37 Shoes............................................................................................................... 38 Special Services...................................................................................... 38

numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS— A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4

Gifts & Collectibles BOTTOM OF THE CUP— In addition to psychic read-

ings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop offers a variety of teas and accessories. Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. www.bottomofthecup.com. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4 BUNGALOWS— This shop mixes jewelry (including

designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM—

Watch master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. Among the specialty styles made here are Plantation Reserve and Vieux CarrÊ. www.cigarfactoryneworleans.com. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. Map 3, E4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE— Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

vintage

’ The Shops at Canal Place 333 Canal Street, Second Level New Orleans, LA 70130 www.wehmeiers.com 504-681-2082

SHOPPING

ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILES—Search-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU— Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop which offers hand-crafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 FOREVER NEW ORLEANS— At this shop,

you’ll find fleur-de-lis everything—from pillows to pottery—along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 622 Royal St., 504.522.0950. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4; 407 Decatur St., 504.510.4030. Map 3, F5 GEM DE FRANCE— Where do French Quarter Franco-

philes go for authentic French Country table linens, shea-butter soaps and trés chic home accents? To Gem de France, naturally, where you’ll find plenty of Parisian imports to ooh-la-la over. www.gemdefrance.com. 729 Royal St., 504.571.6304. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY—This magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5

Louisiana Alligator Belts

IDEA FACTORY— This eclectic gift shop features

everything from toys and kitchen accessories to sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. are also available. www.ideafactoryneworleans.com.

924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP— You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.magicboxneworleans.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 THE MASK GALLERY—Austrian crystals, hand-

tolled leather and fanciful feathers are the signature touches of maskmaker Massoud Dalili’s colorful Carnival creations. 841 Royal St., 504.523.6664. Map 3, F4 MASKARADE— A small shop offering one of the larg-

est selections of Venetian masks in the country, in addition to hundreds of handmade masks by local and international artists. www.themaskstore.com.

630 St. Ann St., 504.568.1018. Map 3, G4

YOUR JEWELRY ISN’T JUST JEWELRY

MIETTE— Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are

showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique.

A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. iheartmiette.com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4 MOONSHINE NETTIE— Kicked-up kitsch is the trade-

719 ROYAL STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 504.522.0222 504.522.9222 Some jewelry displayed patented (US Pat. No. 7,007,507) • © 2015 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved • PANDORA.NET

mark of this women’s boutique. Vintage clothing, funky jewelry, glitter makeup, tutus, tiaras—if it’s fun and fab, you’ll find it here. 901 Chartres St., 504.523.7625. Map 3, H4 NOLA KIDS— This French Quarter children’s

boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 35

THE GUIDE

Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME— It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 PLUM— This hip home and gift shop is devoted to

“cool stuff for stylish living,” much of which is created by local crafters. Handmade housewares, artful accents, jazzy jewelry: If it’s both fun and functional, you’ll likely find it here. www.plumneworleans.com.

1914 Magazine St., 504.897.3388. Map 1, D4 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP— Interested in the

occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 ROYAL MASK— In the market for Mardi Gras masks?

You’ll find plenty here, from traditional Venetian varieties to towering feathered creations. 841 Royal St., 504.913.6646. Map 3, H4 SCRIPTURA— A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits KEIFE & CO.— A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIE—Specializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.809.1026. Map 1, D4 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS— The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4 VOM FASS— Pop into this local branch of the growing

German chain of condiment stores, and taste your way through several walls of wonderful oils, vinegars and spirits. Select from a wild array of “from the cask” flavors—from chili-fig vinegar to nutty pistachio oil. www.vomfassusa.com. 29 Carondelet St., 504.302.1455. Map 3, E4 WHOLE FOODS— The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine 36 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 7

St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2

Hats & Accessories BELLA UMBRELLA— Cloudy skies? This shop helps

you keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrella. www.bellaumbrella.com.

504.529.8945. Map 1, D4 FLEUR DE PARIS— You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS— The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2123 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER— The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. Worldwide shipping is available.

Located just off Canal Street. www.meyerthehatter. com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK— Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.899.9299. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.701.1858. Map 1, D4 WEHMEIER’S— This emporium stocks a wide

variety of super-premium items in exotic leathers, including alligator, ostrich and lizard belts, bags and accessories. Fine leather boots for both men and women from Lucchese, Old Gringo and Lane are featured. www.wehmeiers.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.681.2082. Map 3, E5

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN— A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 HOVÉ— Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com.

434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH— Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 PLANET BEACH—This French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages

SHOPPING

and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 594.525.8266. Map 3, F3 TAO SPA— Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., level A. Map 3, D7; 140 Carondelet St. Map 3, D3 THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA— The Mid-City

branch of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments—reflexology, volcanic stone massages, seaweed wraps, expresso-mud scrubs—along with rejuvenating facials, manicures, pedicures and more. www. neworleans.woodhousespas.com. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3

Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY—“Bohemian luxury” is the

concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. www.akastellagray.com. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 COUTELIER— Form and function combine at this Riv-

537 ROYAL ST. 2048 MAGAZINE ST. TRASHYDIVA.COM 504.299.3939

erbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are knife-sharpening services, cookbooks and other kitchen accessories. www.nolaknifeworks.com. 8239 Oak Street, 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3 HAZELNUT— Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5515 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 NOLA BOARDS—Add a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4 ROUX ROYALE— This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4 THE SHOPS AT 2011 MAGAZINE—This interiors

marketplace features more than 20 vendors.

Custom-made home furnishings, select antiques, art, jewelry and gift items are among the many offerings. www.theshopsat2011.com. 2011 Magazine St., 504.407.0499. Map 1, D4

Jewelry ART & EYES— The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. www.artandeyesnola.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS— French Quarter cast iron, St.

Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. As its

name suggests, fleurs de lis are prominent, with more than 75 different designs featured. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 KREWE DU OPTIC— Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett

has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.kreweduoptic.com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2945. Map 3, H4 MIGNON FAGET— Beloved local designer Mignon

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 WARBY PARKER—Affordable eyewear and

Mid-Century Modern stylishness are Warby Parker’s trademarks. An in-store photo studio lets customers email images of their new glasses to themselves, or to friends, then purchase later online. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.799.2830. Map 1, D4 WELLINGTON & COMPANY— This shop is largely

devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. A large selection of diamond engagement rings is also featured, along with new designer lines such as Thistle & Bee. www.wcjewelry.com. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4

Malls/Major Retailers GULFPORT PREMIUM OUTLETS— It may be an hour’s

drive, but a day trip to this popular outlet mall is well worth the investment for bargain hunters. The sprawling complex offers deep savings at more than 70 leading retailers (from Ann Taylor and J. Crew to Coach and Nike), along with a food court to keep shoppers fueled and on the go. Open daily. www.premiumoutlets.com. 10000 Factory Shops Blvd., Gulfport, Miss., 228.867.6100.

JAX BREWERY— This 1891 brewhouse is now a

riverfront marketplace with three levels of shops and restaurants. www.jacksonbrewery.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.566.7245. Map 3, G5 LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER— A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, the Disney Store, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK— Located

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. Adjacent to the Convention Center, Riverwalk is within walking distance of the CBD and French Quarter. www.riverwalkmarketplace.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7

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THE GUIDE

THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE— Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Shoes

Fine Writing Instruments, Inks, Journals, Wax & Seals, Desk Accessories, Stationery, Inkwells and Dipping Pens

DONALD J. PLINER— This Canal Place retailer is

devoted to shoes, handbags and accessories from designer Donald J. Pliner. www.donaldjpliner.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.522.1720. Map 3, E5 FEET FIRST— More than 50 lines of women’s brand-

name shoes, handbags, jewelry and accessories are offered here, along with items by local designers. www.feetfirststores.com. 526 Royal St. 504.569.0005. Map 3, G4; 4122 Magazine St., 504.899.6800. Map 1, D4 GOOD FEET— Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2

Papier Plume 842 Royal Street (504) 988-7265 www.papierplume.com

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JOHN FLUEVOG—”Unique soles for unique souls.”

fers high-fashion women’s shoes without the high prices that usually accompany them. Get a step ahead with a large selection of cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers.

324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM— In

addition to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility offers Internet access, copying and faxing services. www.frenchquarterpostal.com. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4

Toys • Boxes • Games •

SHOE BE DO— “New Orleans’ greatest addiction” of-

Gizmos • Gadgets • Gifts of Wood • Clocks • Puzzles • Office

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4

GEM PRINTING— For nearly a century, this print

company has been making its mark on everything from invitations and cards to napkins and cups.

Personalized second-line handkerchiefs, umbrellas and other wedding/party accessories are also offered, with fast turnaround service. www. gemprinting.com. 1904 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.9580. Map 1, C2

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PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICES—Why bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4

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ROYAL MAIL SERVICE— Can’t fit all the goodies

you bought into the overhead bin? Send them home via this postal center, which offers DHL, Federal Express and UPS pickups. 828 Royal St., 504.522.8523. Map 3, H4

38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

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THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques

A Room of Their Own

A Dandy Andy

Fans of perennially popular Jazzfest exhibitor Terrance Osborne will once again find the artist at the Fair Grounds this year (May 4-7). Only in town for the fest’s first week? Pay a visit to the new Terrance Osborne Gallery (3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530), where the two-time Jazzfest (and two-time Congo Square) poster artist’s colorful creations (shown) now have a permanent home. Sculptor Betsy Youngquist, who also has garnered a loyal fest following over the years, returns in May as well. Like Osborne, she and frequent Jazzfest exhibitor Ann Marie Cianciolo recently put down roots of their own with Gallery Two (p. 44) in the French Quarter. Stop in April 29 for an after-fest reception.

How much is that Warhol in the window?

The one with the perfect white wig. Priceless, if you ask the folks at Tresor Gallery (p. 46), where Kazuhiro Tsuji’s “large-scale, hyperrealist portrait sculpture” of the late great pop artist draws in passersby for closer inspection. Sure works better than soup cans.

ALEX BEARD STUDIO— This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY— One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY— Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com.

440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY— Contem-

porary Louisiana artists, both established and emerging, are spotlighted here. Works by Michael Guidry, Bob Graham and others are featured. www.brandartnola.com. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY— This chic gallery offers

contemporary works by American and international

artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary.com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

D.O.C.S.— Warehouse Arts District dyna-

mo Richard Nesbitt is the driving force behind this gallery, which showcases a wide range of works by regional up-and-comers. www.docsgallery.com.

709 Camp St., 504.524.3936. Map 3, C5 JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY— This gallery is

home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES— Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY— Contemporary is

the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. Rotating exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists working in a wide range of media are featured. www.martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF GLASSWORKS AND PRINTMAKING STUDIO— This working artists’

studio features free demonstrations by local master crafters in blown glass, printmaking and

fine silver. Designs made in the studio are on display—and for sale—in the front showroom. How-to classes are also offered. www.neworleansglassworks.com.

727 Magazine St., 504.529.7277. Map 3, C6

OCTAVIA ART GALLERY— This contemporary

space spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY— Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 STELLA JONES GALLERY— New Orleans’ pre-

eminent exhibition space for African-American artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www. stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY— The city’s

most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard

MARK KOSTABI FANS can get a little face time with the 1980s art icon, famed for his paintings of faceless figures, at the Martin Lawrence Gallery April 29, from 6 to 9 pm.

40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

(LEFT) ©TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Central Business/ Warehouse District

Antieau Gallery • New Orleans

“Albino Fawn,” Embroidery on Taxidermy

THE WORK OF CHRIS ROBERTS-ANTIEAU 927 ROYAL ST, NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 (504) 304-0849 • www.antieaugallery.com

OPEN DAILY 10AM - 8PM Antieau Gallery Uptown Located at 4532 Magazine Street, New Orleans

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 69-71.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 40

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 40 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................46 Collectives.....................................................................................................48 Other Locations.......................................................................................49

and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery. com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANGELA KING GALLERY— One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert, Steve Taylor, Charles Thysell and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com.

241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY— Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE— A bit of southern

France on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18thcentury antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4; 611 & 619 Royal St. Map 3, G4 BEE GALLERIES— This contemporary space is

home to local artist Martin LaBorde’s beloved “Bodo” paintings, Diego Lukezic’s “Tango Dog” sculpture and Ray Cole’s hand-painted silk wall hangings. www.beegalleries.com. 319 Chartres St., 504.587.7117. Map 3, F4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS— The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4 BRASS MONKEY— This tiny storefront offers one

of the largest selections of Limoges boxes in the Quarter, as well as antique walking sticks and other collectible curios. 407 Royal St., 504.561.0688. Map 3, F4 CALICHE & PAO GALLERY— Caliche and Pao’s

studio and showroom is home to the husbandand-wife team’s vivid, thickly textured oil paintings of local architecture. 312 Royal St., 504.588.2846. Map 3, F4 CALLAN FINE ART— Specializing in fine European

paintings from 1830 to 1950, this prestigious gallery 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

features museum-quality examples from the academic, Barbizon, impressionistic and post-impressionist movements as well as select contemporary works. www.callanfineart.com. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.0025. Map 3, F4 CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY— Emerging local and

regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here.

Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY— The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 CREASON’S FINE ART GALLERY— Here, artist-owner

Greg Creason’s vibrant “modern art with a traditional flair” shares wall space with with contemporary works by Darrell George, Tracy Jarmon, Mary Pat Wallen and others. www.creasonsfineart.com.

831 Chartres St., 504.304.4392. Map 3, H4 ELLIOTT GALLERY— Fine contemporary and modern

art from world-renowned artists is the standard here. Artists represented include Theo Tobiasse, James Coignard, Max Papart, Nissan Engel, Picasso, Miró and Chagall. www.elliottgallery.com.

540 Royal St., 504.523.3554. Map 3, G4 FISCHER-GAMBINO— An eclectic shop specializing

in fine lighting fixtures, as well as works by artists including Doug Anderson and Laney Oxman (whose work has been displayed at the White House). www.fischergambinoneworleansy.com. 637 Royal St., 504.524.9067. Map 3, G4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY—Award-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP— Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 GALLERY ORANGE— Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 GALLERY RINARD— This contemporary gallery

features colorful originals and limited-edition serigraphs by artist-owner Matt Rinard, as well as Robert Guthrie’s watercolors and whimsical pet portraiture by Georg Williams. www.galleryrinard. com. 611 Royal St., 504.522.6536. Map 3, H4 GALLERY TWO— Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 HALL-BARNETT GALLERY— During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today

daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY— David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 HARRIS ANTIQUES— One of the finest antiquaries in

the Quarter, carrying an extensive array of French and English antiques, paintings, Oriental rugs and statuary. www.harrisantiques.com. 233 Royal St., 504.523.1605. D4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES— This impressive show-

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European porcelain, in addition to marble and bronze statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JACK GALLERY— Rediscover the golden age of

advertising with recreated vintage posters by Cappiello, Steinlen, Toulouse-Lautrec and others. The works of Tom Everhart (the only artist authorized to use “Peanuts” characters in his designs), and creations by Rolling Stones guitarist Ron Wood are also featured. www.jackgallery.com. 813 Royal St., 504.588.1777. Map 3, H4 JAMES H. COHEN & SONS— This fifth-generation,

family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items. www.cohenantiques.com. 437 Royal St., 504.524.0802. Map 3, F4 JAMIE HAYES GALLERY— The colorful works of

artist and children’s book author Hayes have been said to capture “the true spirit of New Orleans,” and acquired by such famous collectors as Robin Williams, k.d. lang and Muhammad Ali. Original paintings, prints and fun gift items are featured. www.jamiehayes.com. 617 & 621 Chartres St., 504.592.4080 ; 504.596.2344. Map 3, G4 KAKO GALLERY— Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES— Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KEZIC GALLERY— Diego Lukezic is triple talented.

Perhaps best known for his popular “Tango Dog” series, the local artist also creates New Orleans architectural images using the pseudonym “Martin Luke” and 4-D florals as “Kezic.” www.kezic.com.

343 Royal St., 504.298.1096. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD.— This fine art gallery deals

in international oil paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY— Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose,

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS— An antique shop specializing in objects

for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY— Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures

and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES— This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MANN GALLERY— Specializing in French impres-

sionist and post-impressionist paintings, this

gallery features such 19th-, 20th- and 21stcentury artists as Luc Didier, Edmond Petitjean, Jac Martin-Ferrieres and Pierre Gaston Rigaud. www.vincentmanngallery.com. 305 Royal St., 504.523.2342. Map 3, F4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY— This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MARTIN WELCH ART— Martin “the Crab Man” Welch

has been capturing crustaceans on canvas since 2002. His brightly hued, sea-themed works have been showcased at the New Orleans Museum of Art as well as on the HBO series “Treme.” www.martinwelchart.com. 223 Dauphine St., 504.388.4240. Map 3, F3 MICHALOPOULOS— The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MOSS ANTIQUES— Fine art objects fill this gallery,

which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. www.mossantiques.com.

411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NAGHI’S— From rare objects gathered from around

the world to original jewelry crafted on site, Naghi’s showroom is full of fascinating items. Specializing in Judaica, the shop has an extensive collection of antique silver and family heirlooms. www.naghis. com. 633 Royal St., 504.586.8373. Map 3, G4; 800 Royal St., 504.654.1940. Map 3, H4; 637 Canal St., 504.585.5700. Map 3, E5 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS— Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 PENNINGTON FINE ART—With no formal training,

Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler and others at Boston’s Museum of Fine Art and New York’s Museum of Modern Art. His French Quarter gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées. www.penningtonart.com. 829 Royal St., 985.789.5547. Map 3, H4

WE GROOVIN 96 x 60

Full retrospective on view at the Odgen Museum 925 Camp St. ogdenmuseum.org

PHOTO WORKS— This gallery showcases the work of

photographer Louis Sahuc, known for his dramatic shots of the city, which have been called “the quintessential images of New Orleans.” Sahuc specializes in black-and-white, but also creates vivid color prints. www.photoworksneworleans.com. 521 St. Ann St., 504.593.9090. Map 3, G5 RED TRUCK GALLERY— “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 938 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO— This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 45

THE GUIDE

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLEC TION PRESENTS

Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 SONIAT ANTIQUES— Architectural Digest, Town and

Country and Art & Antiques have all featured this gallery. French painted furniture (18th- and 19thcentury), as well as Italian pieces, can be found in this collection. www.soniatantiques.com. 1130 Chartres St., 504.212.0200. Map 3, I4 TANNER GALLERIES & STUDIO— Home to local

artist Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.”

Originals are offered. www.hauntingart.com. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4 THE ARTIST’S STUDIO— Home to artist Harriette

Prevatte’s detailed depictions of second-line parades and local street musicians. 604 Chartres St., 504.267.1962. Map 3, G4 TRESOR GALLERY— Offbeat illustration, macabre

assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. www.tresorgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.309.3991. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329— A mecca for history and Hollywood

buffs, this hip shop is filled with maps, signed collectibles and one-of-a-kind jewelry. Marilyn Monroe glamour pics, first-edition novels and assorted music memorabilia are among the many offerings.

329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART— This gallery features fine works

in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec. Contemporary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minimalist Jose Basso complement the collection, along with sculpture by Richard McDonald, Martin Eichinger and Paige Bradley. www.windsorfineart. com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown AS YOU LIKE IT SILVER SHOP— This shop stocks silver

flatware in hundreds of active and inactive patterns to complete an existing set or begin a new one.

Browse among tea services, goblets and more. www.asyoulikeitsilvershop.com. 3033 Magazine St., 504.897.6915. Map 1, D4 BERTA & MINA’S ANTIQUITIES GALLERY— Into out-

sider art? Berta’s and Mina’s is packed to the rafters with odd and offbeat offerings from regional folk artists, including Clementine Hunter and the late Nilo Lanzas, whose daughter, Mina, now runs the place. 4138 Magazine St., 504.895.6130. Map 1, D4 CAROL ROBINSON GALLERY— Spotlighting local

and national artists such as Jere Allen, Karen Jacobs and Elliot Snellings, this gallery showcases paintings, sculpture and ceramics. www. carolrobinsongallery.com. 840 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.6130. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY— One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 FRENCHY GALLERY— Art of the moment takes on

new meaning in the hands of Randy Leo Frechette, who captures moments on canvas as they unfold.

From music fests to sporting events to Carnival parades, you’ll find the real-time artist fast at work 46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

View of Basin Street (detail); ca. 1908; The Historic New Orleans Collection, gift of Alber t Louis, Lieutaud, 1957.101

ST RY VILLE MADAMS & MUSIC An exhibition opening April 5, 2017 THNOC’s Williams Research Center 410 Chartres Street Tuesday–Saturday, 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

Admission is free.

The varied attractions of sex, music, and dance emanating from New Orleans’s former red-light district lured visitors from around the country.

Stor yville: Madams and Music traces the rise and fall of the neighborhood that helped shape the notorious reputation that adheres to New Orleans today. www.hnoc.org | (504) 523-4662 |

@visit_thnoc | #visitthnoc

THE GUIDE

Antiques De Provence, llc among the crowds. www.frenchylive.com. 8319 Oak St., 504.861.7595. Map 1, C3

French intérieurs & JArDins

GARDEN DISTRICT GALLERY— This gallery, located

near Commander’s Palace restaurant, features rotating exhibits by local, regional and national artists. www.gardendistrictgallery.com. 1332 Washington Ave., 504.891.3032. Map 1, D4 KEVIN STONE ANTIQUES— This respected dealer

scours European estate sales for top-quality antiques, with an emphasis on unusual 18thand 19th-century items from France and Italy.

The inventory here runs the gamut from fine furnishings to decorative accessories. www. kevinstoneantiques.com. 3420 Magazine St., 504.891.8282. Map 1, D4 NEW ORLEANS PHOTO ALLIANCE— This photogra-

phy collective strives to stimulate “artistic growth while preserving the rich and diverse photographic culture of New Orleans and the southern region” through rotating monthly exhibits. www. neworleansphotoalliance.org. 1111 St. Mary St., 504.513.8030. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERY—Step into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 THE SPIELMAN COMPANY— Photographer David

Spielman is known for his black-and-white takes of famous Southern scribes, and for chronicling the city in the days after Katrina. His works are found at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art...and at his Garden District gallery. www.davidspielman.com.

2727 Prytania St., 504.899.7670. Map 1, D4

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

623 royAL street

French quArter

new orLeAns

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O— This innovative de-

sign gallery is the showplace of “techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann and other contemporary metalsmiths, you’ll find lamps and fine furnishings by a variety of designers. www.thomasmann.com. 1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2113. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES— Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture found here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP— Looking for un-

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works (oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks) by dozens of regional artists. Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Pl., 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS— This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ CO-OP— This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www.

48 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

YOUR EVENT WILL BE CELEBRATED IN HISTORY. H ERMANN- G RIMA H O US E NEW O RL EA NS ’ H IS T O RIC EVENT S ET T ING .

820 saint louis street | events@hgghh.org hgghh.org

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5 GREAT ARTISTS COLLECTIVE— Works by more than

20 local artists, who dabble in everything from glass-blowing and textile-making to photography and jewelry, are showcased at this French Quarter collective. www.greatartistscollective.com. 815 Royal St., 504.525.8190. Map 3, H4 JACKSON SQUARE ART COLLECTIVE— For more than

five decades, artists have been gathering around Jackson Square’s black iron fence, exposing their art to the public and the public to their art. One of the oldest active art colonies in the nation, the collective counts numerous artists displaying their works daily. www.jackson-square.com. Map 3, G5 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO.— The acronym

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented here are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.523.7945. Map 3, E5

Other Locations BARRISTER’S GALLERY— A bit off the beaten

Royal Street path but well worth the sidetrack for Southern and African folk art fans. Barrister’s is packed with the odd and the interesting. www. barristersgallery.com. 2331 St. Claude Ave., 504.710.4506. Map 1, E3 DR. BOB’S STUDIO— ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Mariah Carey, Harry Shearer and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net. 3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3 5 PRESS GALLERY— Part of the New Orleans Center

FEBRUARY 17 – MAY 21, 2017 Pietro Longhi, The Perfume Seller (detail), 1750 – 1752 Oil on canvas, Venice, Ca’ Rezzonico

for Creative Arts, this airy space spotlights works by professional artists with strong ties to the nationally acclaimed high school, from notable alumni (such as Brandan Odums and Jazzfest fave Terrance Osborne) to visiting artists-inresidence. www.5pressgallery.com. 5 Press St., 504.249.5624. Map 1, E3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKET—This plein air art market

www.noma.org

fills an alley tucked amid Frenchmen Street’s famed music halls. From handcrafted jewelry to handmade soaps to folk art, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares. Open Th-M, 7 pm-1 am. www.frenchmenartmarket.com. 619 Frenchmen St., 504.941.1149. Map 3, J5 ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO— Located in historic 2/2/17 4:06 PMAlgiers Point in a renovated art deco build-

04-0217 Venice Where Magazine sixth page Ad.indd 1

ing, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8 STUDIO BE— Breakout local artist Brandan Odums’

Christina Foard

Gigi Mills

Lyle Carbajal

819 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA | www.gallery-orange.com | 504 875 4006

giant graffiti-style murals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space in the Bywater neighborhood. The evocative collection explores African-American life, from the Civil Rights era to the Black Lives Matter movement, through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm. www.ephemeraleternal.com. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3

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THE GUIDE

Entertainment Mystery Date “If the phone rings, answer it,” reads a cryptic note next to the outdated landline in the artfully antiquated anteroom at Escape My Room (633 Constance St., 504.475.7580; escapemyroom.com).

So begins the mystery my friends and I have come here to hopefully figure out.

A murder has taken place in the Jazz Parlor, and we have an hour in which to unravel the many riddles surrounding it.

There’s a pump organ, an empty clarinet case and images of jazz greats scattered about the small room we’re locked in, but this is more a game of logic than a test of music knowledge. Like its popular Mardi Gras Study and soon-to-open Inventor’s Attic, Escape’s jazz-themed experience is 60 minutes of brain-teasing, adrenalinepumping, team-building fun. What to do on a rainy afternoon? Mystery solved.

ARMSTRONG PARK— Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS— This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTARIUM— The nation’s largest museum devoted

to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK— Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4 AUDUBON ZOO— Home to more than 1,800 animals,

the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Opens at 10 am daily; call for

closing times. www.auduboninstitute. org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS— This popular pilgrimage

site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3

wheretraveler.com

CITY PARK— Abundant live oaks provide a

lush canopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. www.neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 FRENCH MARKET— Along with homegrown special-

ties, America’s oldest public market features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Place, 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 HARRAH’S CASINO— The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleansthemed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE— The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur St. at St. Ann St. Map 3, G5 MARDI GRAS WORLD— It’s Carnival time all year long

inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/ students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www.mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8

NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK— This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.588.7608. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISIANA GENERAL STORE— Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL— Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI. Mass said daily. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4

THE FIRST JAZZFEST took place in 1970 at Armstrong Park with 350 attendees; the 2016 New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival drew more than 425,000 to the Fair Grounds.

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

©CHERYL GERBER/ESCAPE MY ROOM

Attractions & Landmarks

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 69-71.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................50 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................52 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 53 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 54 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 56

THE THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE— This state-

of-the-art movie theater offers nine separate screens, along with in-seat dining from its in-house Gusto Café and Bar. www.thetheatres.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES— Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CELEBRATION TOURS— This company provides

group city and plantation tours, in addition to private excursions. Hotel pickups available; rates vary. www.celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SIGHTSEEING— This fun and informative

double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER— Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and 3-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS— All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$22. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. True Crime Tour –Private tour, call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 GRAY LINE TOURS— Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2 hrs. City Express 52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

Tour –1.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs.

Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.

Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour-5.5 hrs.For tickets and further information:

www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS— Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am, and M-Sa, 1:15 pm, from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs.

Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 pm and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 pm and 7:30 pm) from

Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www.hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

SAVE OUR CEMETERIES— Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am from 1400 block of Washington Ave. $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am and Sa-Su at 1 pm from 501 Basin St. $20; free 12 and under. Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ— The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR— Free

guided daily tours, 9 am-4 pm, except major holidays. www.tabasco.com. La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS— These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from 701 Royal Street; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm. www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

Museums & Exhibits CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM— Estab-

lished in 1891, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 53

THE GUIDE

operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $8 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION— This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM— This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4-D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $26 adults, $22.50 seniors, $16.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries”: an additional $5; “Final Mission”: an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART— One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings.

The Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-17, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open daily, 10 am-6 pm; free. www.noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART— The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free).

Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. www.ogdenmuseum.org.

925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6

Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75— Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYOU WINE GARDEN—This casual Mid-City spot

offers 32 rotating wines on draft and a huge bottled selection. www.bayouwinegarden.com.

315 N. Rendon St., 504.826.2925. Map 1, D3 HERMES BAR— This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, access to the historic eatery’s full menu and live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4

what. when. where

®

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP— The legends sur-

rounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers.

54 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

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www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 PAT O’BRIEN’S— Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. www.patobriens. com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB— This upscale gentlemen’s

club is one of the largest along the Bourbon Street strip. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4

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bar gets kicked up several notches at this Bourbon Street hot spot, which scores extra points with 10 high-definition TVs and 10 beers on draft. iknowrick.com. 522 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, G4

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cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans. www.therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

Live Entertainment

536 Frenchmen 504.252.4801 3musesnola.com

BLUE NILE— This lively venue is simultaneously

funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5

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CAFÉ NEGRIL— This intimate club features

crowd-pleasing live acts, ranging from jazz and blues to rock and reggae. 606 Frenchmen St., 504.944.4744. Map 3, J5 D.B.A.— This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip

features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE—This stylish spot inside

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Find the best of the city

THE GUIDE

Navigate Hit the Road

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION— Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY— Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING— It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING— Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY— Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE— Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE— Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING— Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY— A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS— Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES— The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS— New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS— Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, complete with a new 35-gate terminal due to open in 2018.

58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

©SHAWN FINK

Worlds apart from New Orleans but just a short drive away, Cajun country (p. 59) is almost a state within a state, comprising 22 parishes in the southwest portion of Louisiana.

Take a group of Nova Scotians and Québécois displaced by Canada’s French and Indian War during the 1750s, add a handful of Native American tribes and a sprinkling of German immigrants, and you get the rich cultural mix that is Acadiana. With the bustling city of Lafayette at its center, it’s easy to explore the hundreds of tiny towns that dot the region. From the low rolling hills in the north to the muddy bayous in the south—and all the crawfish, boudin and zydeco between—a visit to Cajun country is well worth a day (or two) trip.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 70-72.

Index General Information........................................................................... 58 Nearby Destinations............................................................................59 Cajun Country...........................................................................................59 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 59 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 59 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................59 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................59 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 59 Transportation ....................................................................................... 58

TAXICABS— Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING— The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods BYWATER— A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters and a growing number of popular eateries. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT (CBD)— The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5 CENTRAL CITY—This once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER— The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military

outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN— Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW— Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residental shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 MARIGNY (FAUBOURG MARIGNY)— Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MID-CITY— Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND— Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ (FAUBOURG TREMÉ)— The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE ARTS DISTRICT— This “Southern

SoHo” adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK— A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY— Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history

and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH— Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

LAFOURCHE PARISH— Founded in 1807, Lafourche

was one of the Louisiana’s original parishes when it became a state in 1812. Situated along Bayou Lafourche, which extends to the Gulf of Mexico, the area is rich in fish and wildlife, making it an ideal location for early Acadian settlers. The Jean Lafitte National Park Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center in Thibodaux, the parish seat, offers insight into Cajun life, while swamp tours provide an upclose look local flora and fauna. Thibodaux is also home to the Laurel Village Sugar Plantation and Museum (the largest surviving 19th–century sugar plantation in the U.S.) and Nicholls State University (aka “Harvard on the Bayou”). www.visitlafourche. com. 985.537.5800.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE— Across lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA— Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time, cher. www. houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

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Where do you want to go?

Find the best of the city

THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Retro Romance Destination weddings take on a whole new meaning along historic River Road, where bridal parties don’t just travel to another time zone, but to an entirely different era.

Most plantations offer wedding packages, from elaborate affairs to simple ceremonies. At Destrehan, for example, vows are exchanged in a rustic 1830s mule barn, while Nottoway (shown), with its exquisite all-white ballroom, full-service salon and on-site honeymoon suite, is more refined.

At Oak Alley couples gather beneath a picturesque canopy of 300-year-old oaks to say their “I dos.” Houmas House, with its 38 acres of lush gardens and varied venues (from the pristine Grand Lawn to the Asianinspired Tea House), can conduct multiple ceremonies at once, helping secure its placement among The Knot’s list of the nation’s best wedding facilities.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION— A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $18 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION— This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS—

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION— This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African fold Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM— Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE— This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM— De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION— This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the CIvil War; today only a handful remain.

66 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 017

©NOTTOWAY PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION— This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 66 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 66 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 67 Dining........................................................................................................... 68

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION— Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION— Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS— Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION— Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION— One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 67

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION— This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION— “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION— The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE— In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION— This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM— Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN— The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 68 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I A P R I L 2 01 7

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE— Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE— Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE— During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ— Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ— This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING— Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION— Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT— Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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THE GUIDE

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 3 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 t S Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 in e RH a v OC Omni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 Sp hA AveOmni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 OO c n i l o kPL n R a Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 Fr St PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 7 Street Direction SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 French Quarter WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 E4 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 Jazzy Passes WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

Outdoors Lover

History Buff

Haunt Hunter

Work in a history lesson on your morning run with a (1) New Orleans Jogging Tour, which starts in the French Quarter then winds through the Central Business District and Garden District. From boating, biking and fishing to tennis, horseback riding and disc golf, picturesque (2) City Park offers easy escape for outdoor enthusiasts. Bird-watchers will gravitate to the 60-acre Couturie Forest, while fitness junkies will find their fix in the hydraulic exercise equipment around the Big Lake. (3) Airboat Adventures provides upclose encounters with alligators, egrets and other beasts of the Southern wild. Opt for a small-boat, early morning outing, when the swamp is most picturesque and the wildlife is hungry for company.

Track the trail of powdered sugar down Decatur Street, and you’ll find folks queued up outside (1) Café du Monde, as they have since 1862. Don’t be deterred by the long lines; the trademark café au lait and beignets are worth the wait. The Sazerac, named “the Official Cocktail of New Orleans” by the Louisiana legislature in 2007, was first poured here in 1838. It has since become synonymous with the Roosevelt Hotel, home to the famed (2) Sazerac Bar since the 1930s. Hot New Orleans nights call for cool jazz, and it doesn’t get much cooler than (3) Preservation Hall, which has been preserving the city’s time-honored jazz customs since 1961.

Don’t want to sit on the floor? Call ahead for “Big Shot” seats.

In New Orleans, ghost and cemetery tours aren’t offered only during October but year-round. There are dozens of "cities of the dead" to explore; if you can visit only one, make it St. Louis No. 1 and make it with the nonprofit tour group (1) Save Our Cemeteries, which helps fund tomb restoration and preservation. Founded by two warlocks, (2) Hex: Old World Witchery has outposts both here and in Salem. Get a real-deal reading and leave a note to the dearly departed on the Witches’ Altar of the Dead. “America’s most haunted city” is home to dozens of ghost excursions, with (3) Haunted History Tours among the most popular. Daytime outings are offered, but after-dark walks on the city's supernatural side are all the eerier.

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