Where New Orleans December 2016

DECEMBER 2016 CELEBRATING 80 YEARS OF TRAVEL

New Orleans

®

wheretraveler.com

Starry Nights Light Shows, Candle-Lit Caroling and More Holiday Magic

+

DECADENT DINING HOT TODDIES PHOTONOLA

“Gouffre,” by photographer Frank Relle

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Fresh Florida

STONE CRABS Now Available

Open 5 p.m. Daily • 322 Magazine Street • 504.522.7902 • chophousenola.com

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ART & EY&S

3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494

artandeyesnola.com

20% off

1 pair, frames AND lenses

30% off

2 pair, frames AND lenses

40% off

Alain Mikli opticals

50% Off Selected frames

STOREWIDE

SALE NOV 29 THRU DEC 24

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Detail of “James Booker,” 18.5 x 32.75, Fabric Appliqué & Thread Painting

Antieau Gallery • New Orleans THE WORK OF CHRIS ROBERTS-ANTIEAU 927 ROYAL ST, NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 (504) 304-0849 • www.antieaugallery.com OPEN DAILY 10AM - 8PM

Antieau Gallery Uptown Located at 4532 Magazine Street, New Orleans

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Where do you want to go?

Find the best of the city

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Plantar Fasciitis • Heel Pain • Flat Feet • Fallen Arches • Neuromas • Arch Pain

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Receive off entire purchase when you mention Where Magazine!

Metairie French Quarter Uptown 3000 Severn Ave 539 Bienville St 2109 Magazine St 504.888.7080 504.875.2929 504.309.7702

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New Orleans CONTENTS

12.16

SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

the plan

the guide 26

11 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Russell Southerland Ritz-Carlton club concierge.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus gingerbread houses and fishy feasts.

12 Editor's Itinerary An 80-minute exploration of Jackson Square in celebration of Where's 80th anniversary.

XX 36 SHOPPING

14 Hot Dates

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus stockings and stuff with which to fill them.

Holiday home tours Open houses, Mary J. Blige and Maxwell, John Cleese and Eric Idle, Tony Bennett, Amy Schumer and all the Who Dats want for Christmas.

GALLERIES &

44 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl. Plus PhotoNOLA, the big picture.

50

ENTERTAINMENT

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and music clubs. Plus seeing red and remembering Pearl Harbor.

66 XX 80 Where Inside: New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for luxury seekers, family travelers and romantics.

16

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus the new Rampart/ St. Claude streetcar line.

XX

74

ON THE COVER

DECEMBER 2016 CELEBRATING 80 YEARS OF TRAVEL

New Orleans

®

"Gouffre," by wheretraveler.com

award-winning

Starry Nights Light Shows, Candle-Lit Caroling and More Holiday Magic

photographer Frank Relle, part of DECADENT DINING HOT TODDIES PHOTONOLA

toNOLA exhibit.

“Gouffre,” by photographer Frank Relle

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©FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY

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18 Out + About 19 Local Knowledge Caroling in Jackson Square.

20 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

Historic houses and guided tours along River Road. Plus old-fashioned holidays.

From the Krewe of Jingle Parade to Christmas Eve bonfires, 17 ways to make the season bright.

Holiday sounds and sips, plus New Year's Eve fun.

CONNECT WITH US

PLANTATION COUNTRY

16 Holiday Happenings

+

the citywide Pho-

where now

NAVIGATE

Diets be damned, hot restaurant dish and the return of the hand pie.

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 77-79

(LEFT) ©HELGA ESTEB/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (CENTER) ©MARCUS CARTER/ARTS COUNCIL OF NEW ORLEANS

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FOLLOW IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS It should have been impossible. Crossing the world’s widest ocean to answer an attack made by a powerful adversary.

Through hostile terrain and untold suffering, millions of Americans pushed past impossible to win the Pacific War. Follow in their footsteps on The Road to Tokyo, a new immersive experience at The National WWII Museum.

#1 Attraction in New Orleans #4 Museum in the United States

504.528.1944 | NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG

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YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

NEW ORLEANS

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Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Russell Southerland Club concierge at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel

Q: Mister Bingle passes in front of the Ritz—his former home—during the Krewe of Jingle Parade (p. 17). What other local holiday traditions are on your list?

A: I always make it a point to do Celebration in the Oaks (p. 17) and ride the lighted train through the park. I also like to stroll the French Quarter and CBD and check out hotel decorations. The Roosevelt (p. 79) is my personal favorite.

Q: The Ritz is now home to a giant gingerbread display during the holidays. Name a bakery or candy shop you’re sweet on.

A: Maple Street Patisserie (7638 Maple St., 504.304.1526). And Southern Candymakers (p. 40); in my opinion, they have the best pralines in the city.

Q: St. Louis Cathedral is New Orleans’ most-visited church. Suggest another visitors should seek out.

A: Immaculate Conception, the Jesuit church on Baronne Street.

Q: Hot chocolate or hot toddies?

A: Hot chocolate from Café Du Monde (p. 29). It’s probably not the quality of it so much as it is nostalgia for when I first moved here.

ALL IMAGES ©SHAWN FINK

Q: Where would you guide guests to view New Year’s Eve fireworks?

A: The Moonwalk is the most convenient place and probably has the best view. But I’d make an evening of it and have dinner at Tujague’s (p. 32), then watch the fireworks from its balcony.

Celebration in the Oaks

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EDITOR’S ITINERARY DOUG BRANTLEY CELEBRATING 80 YEARS OF TRAVEL

The Essential New Orleans It’s beginning to look—and sound—a lot like Christmas.

Festive light displays, candle-lit caroling in Jackson Square, Papa Noël sightings, bonfires along the river to help guide his gatorpulled pirogue, Twelve Days of Cocktails … hey, this is New Orleans. Cheers to a very merry month!

80 MINUTES IN:

Jackson Square

YOUR PLACE FOR THE HOLIDAYS Saks Fifth Avenue Armani Collezioni Donald J Pliner Tiffany & Co. lululemon athletica French Connection Anthropologie Brooks Brothers vineyard vines Allen Edmonds Morton’s, The Steakhouse and more

333 Canal Street

www.theshopsatcanalplace.com

The Shops at Canal Place

theshopsatcanal

504.522.9200

theshopsatcanalplace

Flanked by the nation’s oldest Catholic cathedral and first apartment complex, Jackson Square (p. 51) is as central to Crescent City life today as when it was first laid out in 1721.

The bronze statue at its center depicts Gen. Andrew Jackson tipping his hat toward the residence of Baroness Micaëla Pontalba (his alleged lover), who erected the twin brick buildings surrounding the square. To the left of St. Louis Cathedral is the Presbytère, a former rectory turned museum; to its right is the Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place. Between the two is Pirate's Alley, where William Faulkner wrote his first novel, just steps from where Tennessee Williams penned “Streetcar” and the oldest community playhouse in the U.S. Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

in the world

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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WHERE CALENDAR DECEMBER

For more information: wheretraveler.com

Search the full New Orleans calendar at wheretraveler.com

TOP STOPS

HOT

21 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining.

CIVIC THEATRE Dec. 6: Seu Jorge; Dec. 10: Afghan Whigs; Dec. 17: Jim James. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865

DATES

HOUSE OF BLUES Dec. 6: Lupe Fiasco; Dec. 7: Howard Jones; Dec. 10: Amanda Shires; Dec. 22: Home for the Holidays. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583

ALL MONTH:

Holiday Home Tours

Want to sneak a peek inside some of the city’s most coveted addresses? December provides the perfect opportunity with a variety of holiday open houses. Throughout the month you’ll find the circa-1831 Hermann-Grima and -1857 Gallier houses outfitted in period-inspired “holiday dress,” and the Historic New Orleans Collection’s Williams Residence decorated with fresh greenery and vintage ornaments reflective of the 1940s. The Preservation Resource Center offers entry to nine contemporary Garden District properties Dec. 10-11, while the Patio Planters welcome visitors to decked-out French Quarter residences Dec. 18. Grab a go-cup and go wassailing. hgghh.org; hnoc.org; prcno.org; patioplanters.org

6

Great Things Not to Be Missed

MAXWELL & MARY J. BLIGE > DEC. 1 The soulful Grammy greats join forces for the first time with their "King + Queen of Hearts" tour. Talk about a match made in R&B heaven.

Smoothie King Center, 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 1

Blige caption here

Saints

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

2 NEW ORLEANS PELICANS > DEC. 2 & 28 Anthony Davis and company hit the hardwood at the Smoothie King Center for 10 home games this month, beginning and ending with matchups against the Los Angeles Clippers. Both tip-offs are at 7 pm. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

3 JOHN CLEESE & ERIC IDLE > DEC. 3 The British comics and Monty Python vets take the stage of the Saenger Theatre “To-

gether Again at Last…For the Very First Time.”

1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 4 NEW ORLEANS SAINTS > DEC. 4 & 24 The Black and Gold take on the Detroit Lions Dec. 4, before tackling the Tampa Bay Buccaneers Christmas Eve. Mercedes-Benz Superdome, 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

TONY BENNETT > DEC. 7 The man who left his heart in San Francisco left locals swooning for more following his 2015 Jazzfest appearance. Hear why at the Saenger Theatre. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 5

6 HERE COMES THE FUNNY > DEC. 8 What do you get when you put "Saturday Night Live" alums Adam Sandler, Rob Schneider and David Spade together on stage with Nick Swardson? One laugh-packed evening.

UNO Lakefront Arena, 6801 Franklin Ave., 800.745.3000; arena.uno.org

LE PETIT THEATRE Dec. 14-21: “The Musicians of Breman”; Dec. 22-23: “Christmas Without Tears.” 616 St. Peter St., 504.522.2081 ORPHEUM THEATER Dec. 9-11: Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra's Holiday Spectacular; Dec. 15: Baroque Christmas; Dec. 17-18: New Orleans Ballet Theatre presents “The Nutcracker”; Dec. 31: The Revivalists. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870 SAENGER THEATRE Dec. 1: Lauryn Hill; Dec. 2: John Prine; Dec. 3-18 “Jersey Boys”; Dec. 23: “Moscow Ballet’s Great Russian Nutcracker.” 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Dec. 31: Amy Schumer.

1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

(TOP) ©GALLIER HOUSE; (CENTER) ©HELGA ESTEB/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (BOTTOM) ©MICHAEL C. HEBERT

Gallier House

JOY THEATER Dec. 1: Stevie Val; Dec. 7: The Fixx Holiday Show; Dec. 16: The Jesus and Mary Chain. 1200 Canal St., 800.745.3000

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Double Plantation Tour OAK ALLEY

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Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com

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where now New Orleans

The city’s top events, attractions, entertainment, dining and more

HOLIDAY HAPPENINGS

Celebration Central

Moscow Ballet’s “Great Russian Nutcracker”

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Roving reindeer, dazzling light displays, joyful noises, hot toddies and more festive fun

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w w w.wh eretr aveler.c o m

’Tis the Season

CELEBRATION IN THE OAKS Celebrating its third decade in scenic City Park throughout the month, this dazzling display draws thousands each year with dozens of illuminated holiday vignettes spread over 25 acres.

Highlights include the “Dripping Snow Tree.” celebrationintheoaks. com

(TOP) ©PAT GARIN/NOCVB; (CENTER) ©ARTS COUNCIL OF NEW ORLEANS; (BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK; (OPENING PAGE) ©MOSCOW BALLET

MIRACLE ON FULTON STREET > DEC. 224 Fulton Street pedestrian corridor; fqfi.org KREWE OF JINGLE PARADE > DEC. 3 Beginning at 1 pm at Lee Circle, traveling up St. Charles Ave., down Canal and Baronne streets, ending at Howard Ave.; downtownnola.com/ holidays JAZZ BRUNCH WITH SANTA > DEC. 3, 10, 17 & 22 Court of Two Sisters, 613 Royal St.; courtoftwosisters.com JINGLE BUGS > DEC. 10 Audubon Butterfly Garden and Insectarium, 423 Canal St.; auduboninstitute.org REINDEER RUN & ROMP > DEC. 10 Begins and ends at the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk, 500 Port of New Orleans Place; downtownnola.com/ holidays NOLA CHRISTMASFEST > DEC. 1630 New Orleans Convention Center, Convention Center Blvd.; nolachristmasfest. com CHRISTMAS EVE BONFIRE EXPRESS TOUR > DEC. 24 Gray Line Tours, Toulouse St. at the river; graylineneworleans. com SNOFARI ADVENTURE > DEC. 2631 Audubon Zoo, 6500 Magazine St.; audubonnatureinstitute. org/events

Celebration In the Oaks

Luna Fête

LUNA FÊTE This state-of-theart spectacle uses tailor-made videomapping technology to transform Lafayette Square’s circa-1853 Gallier Hall into a modern-day masterpiece.

Free, nightly viewings take place Dec. 7-10 on the hour, from 6 to 9 pm. artsneworleans. org/event/luna-fete ALGIERS BONFIRE & CONCERT Hop the ferry at the foot of Canal Street Dec. 3 to take in this brilliant blaze along the Mississippi River.

Designed to help

guide the way for Papa Noël, the familyfriendly affair features live entertainment beginning at 5:30 pm, before the big burn at 8:30 pm. algiersbonfire.com CHRISTMAS EVE BONFIRES Head 40 miles upriver to St. James parish Dec. 24, and you’ll spot more than 100 additional pyres in all shapes and sizes lining the riverfront between Gramercy and Paulina. Can’t make it Christmas Eve? Check out the Festival of the Bonfires Dec. 9-11. festivalofthebonfires.org CHANUKAH AT RIVERWALK The Mississippi riverfront is also the setting for this annual event celebrating Chanukah. Enjoy Jewish music and kosher cuisine at Spanish Plaza Dec. 27 before the lighting of a massive menorah at 6:15 pm. riverwalkmarketplace.com/events

Christmas Stories Local screens and stages get in on the holiday act with a variety of festive offerings. Grab a blanket and head to Spanish Plaza for Holiday Movies on the Mississippi Dec. 2, 9 and 16 (downtownnola.com/ holidays). The Mahalia Jackson Theater (p. 61) replays 1990’s Home Alone Dec. 3, with the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra performing the film’s Oscarwinning score. Le Petit (p. 61) plays host to Harry Shearer (“The Simpsons”) and chanteuse wife Judith Owen’s holiday singalong, Christmas Without Tears (Does This Tree Make Me Look Fat?), Dec. 22-23, while the Saenger (p. 61) presents the Moscow Ballet’s Great Russian Nutcracker Dec. 23.

Algiers Bonfire

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Orleans A Month of Music During the holidays New Orleans is alive with the sound of music. Tune in to: CATHEDRAL CONCERTS Catch free performances by area choirs and musicians (Grammy winner Irma Thomas, James Andrews, Alexis & the Samurai) Dec. 1-15 at St. Louis Cathedral (Jackson Square) and Dec. 3-17 at St. Augustine Catholic Church (1210 Gov. Nicholls St.). fqfi.org THE VICTORY BELLES’ “A VINTAGE CHRISTMAS” Revisit the 1940s throughout December at the National WWII Museum’s Stage Door Canteen via this trio, which channels the Andrews Sisters through songs such as “I’ll Be Home for Christmas.” 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943; stagedoorcanteen.org HOTEL MONTELEONE CHORAL CONCERTS Hark! That angelic sound echoing through the Monteleone’s lobby?

That’s the joyful noise of local school choirs performing holiday carols Dec. 1-16. 214 Royal St.,

504.523.3341; hotelmonteleone. com/entertainment/events LOUISIANA PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA The oldest musician-governed symphony in the U.S. teams up with the 610 Stompers (“ordinary men with extraordinary moves”) for an over-the-top Holiday Spectacular Dec. 9-11, then goes for baroque Dec. 15 with Handel’s “Messiah.” Orpheum Theater, 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.523.6530; orpheumnola.com HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS Troy “Trombone Shorty” Andrews, Kermit Ruffins, John Boutte and Cyril Neville are just a small sampling of the big talents that come together Dec. 22 for this annual concert at the House of Blues. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583; hob.com

Trombone Shorty

OUT+ABOUT

Going Out With a Bang Move over, Manhattan: It’s New Orleans that ranks No. 1 on Travel + Leisure’s list of “America’s Best Cities for New Year’s Eve.” The year-end fun kicks off Dec. 31 at noon with the free Allstate Sugar Bowl Fan Jam featuring top-tier music acts in the Jax Brewery parking lot, followed by a Sugar Bowl parade along Decatur Street at 3 pm (allstatesugarbowl.org). You’ll hear more music rising up from Jackson Square beginning at 9 pm, part of the NOLA New Year’s Eve celebration, which culminates with midnight fireworks over the Mississippi River. Also making noise this New Year’s Eve: Comedian Amy Schumer plays it for laughs at the Smoothie King Center (p.

52), while local breakouts The Revivalists rock the Orpheum Theater (p. 61).

HOLIDAY CHEER Get into the spirits of the season Dec. 8 with Tales of the Toddy at the Hyatt Regency (talesofthecocktail.com). A wintry offshoot of the summertime Tales of the Cocktail booze fest, the wildly popular holiday hoedown features 50 of the city’s most toast-worthy bartenders teaming up to shake up tasty toddies. You’ll also find holiday-themed cocktail specials at restaurants citywide, from Antoine’s to Upperline, as part of the month-long Christmas New Orleans Style celebration (fqfi.org). Beginning Dec. 13, Brennan’s (p. 29) puts its own twist on a holiday classic with Twelve Days of Cocktails, which offers a different Christmas-y quaff (“Rudolph Takes Off,” “Wassail Y’all”) Tales of the Toddy

each day through Dec. 24.

(LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT) ©525WORLDWIDE; (BOTTOM) ©TALES OF THE COCKTAIL; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©CHERYL GERBER

WHERE NOW New

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LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

One Voice For nearly 300 years Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral have served as gathering spaces for New Orleanians of all stripes. The city’s first midnight Mass was held on the site in 1727, and it was in that same communal spirit that the French Quarter preservationist group the Patio Planters gathered in the square seven decades ago to sing Christmas carols. What was once a few dozen folks bearing candles has since grown into a field of hundreds stretching from the square to the cathedral and beyond.

Visitors are invited to take part in the 70th annual Caroling in Jackson Square Dec. 18 at 7 pm, when voices representing the city’s many diverse cultures will once again be raised in unison. patioplanters.org

Caption 7 pt, Myriad Pro Semibold Semi-extended Caption 7/9pt, Avenir Medium flush

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Orleans Hot Dish What’s new, notable and not to be missed MERIL At Emeril Lagasse’s new casual restaurant the enormous menu is packed with sharable dishes that cross lots of cuisines and cultures.

Load the table with plates of Brazilian cheese breads topped by shaved Spanish ham, crispy turkey necks liberally dusted with cumin, robata-grilled chicken thighs and Mexican corn. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745

Bayou Burger FOOD+DRINK

Year-End Blowout Meals In New Orleans December is the month to celebrate Reveillon, an over-the-top, multicourse meal that historically was taken after midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. Borrowing from this tradition and expanding on the theme, there are a slew of utterly decadent dishes to feast on as 2016 comes to a close and before “juice fast January” arrives.

Bagels, biscuits and cornbread have become vehicles for all manner of ingredients and toppings. The stuffed bagel at New Orleans Cake Café (p. 33) is a fist-sized bun filled with the obvious (salmon, cream cheese and capers) and the off-center (eggs, vegetables and cheese). Biscuits served with crab fat butter at Toups South (p. 28) are delectable, but it’s the “Upside-Down Cornbread” with pineapple and bacon marmalade at Meril (p. 27) that is the stuff of dreams.

Sandwiches have also gone down the wild road at places like District (2209 Magazine St., 504.570.6945), where the “Croquenut” makes “bread” out of a griddled donut that can be filled in several ways, including muffuletta-style. Hit up Turkey & The Wolf (p. 33) for the sublimely ridiculous “Grand Slam McMuf-

fin”—bulk sausage patties, fried hash browns, grilled onions, American cheese and ketchup.

The “Most Valuable Burgers” at Bayou Burger (p. 29) are all intense, but the standouts are “The Bayou” (a deep-fried burger) and “The Ultimate Cure,” a double cheeseburger with a grilled cheese-and-bacon sandwich between the two patties.

Starter and happy hour menus offer creative combos, such as The Country Club’s (p. 33) “Foie Gras Ice Cream Sandwich” on house brioche with black-raspberry ice cream, sweet-and-sour onions and whiskey-pecan butter. Or how about some “Chicken Skin Cracklins” at Cellar Door (p. 26)?

To finish off, why not put bread pudding on French bread and fry it like they do at Ye Olde College Inn (3000 S. Carrolton Ave., 504.866.3683)?—Lorin Gaudin

TOUPS SOUTH “Top Chef” star Isaac Toups’ second restaurant is a perfect fit for the attached Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Table-size ceramic casseroles hold split and flattened chicken roasted in a flavorful jus with rapini and firm, herbaceous dumplings. Start with a silky wedge of foie torchon, fig jam and whipped buttermilk to swipe on local Bellegarde bread, and get this: local greens tossed with crispy black-eye peas, radishes and cane

syrup-Creole mustard vinaigrette.

1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147 FLAMING TORCH This French restaurant holds a secret: Persian food. Ask for the special menu and enjoy the homey flavor of blitzed eggplant dip, homemade lavish and a diced vegetable salad with dried dill dressed with a sharp vinaigrette.

Kabob plates come with grilled tomatoes to mix into turmeric-dotted basmati rice, and the “Zereshk Polo Ba Morgh”—saffron- and butter-roasted chicken with tart barberries atop rice—is divine. 737 Octavia St., 504.895.0900 —LG

Toups South

LOUISIANA PURCHASE When the Hubig’s Pie factory was demolished by fire in 2015, the plaintive wail of New Orleanians could be heard around the world. Hubig’s fried hand pies were so beloved they were even the chosen treat provided to inmates at local prisons.

Enter Haydel’s Bakery (4037 Jefferson Hwy., 800.442.1342), which recently released its own version. Baked instead of fried, Haydel’s Gourmet Hand Pies are half-moons of tender pastry crust, coated with a light glaze and stuffed with chocolate, lemon, cherry or apple filling.

Gaining popularity and quickly becoming part of restaurant dessert menus, Haydel’s hand pies are, of course, available at the bakery and also at area grocery stores. —LG

(TOP) ©BAYOU BURGER AND SPORTS COMPANY; (CENTER) ©DENNY CULBERT/TOUPS SOUTH; (BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK

WHERE NOW New

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

GIFT GUIDE

Holiday Hits Searching for a standout stocking stuffer, that special something for that special someone? Add a bit of Crescent City charm to your gift-giving this season.

ART & EYES Art & Eyes carries over 1500 handmade frames, optical suns, starting from ARTand & EYES Art & Eyes carries over 1500 handmade frames, opticalaccessory and suns, starting from $75. In addition, some of the finest artisans are featured here. $75. In addition, some3708 of the finest accessory are featured here.

Magazine Street, artisans (504)891-4494, www.Artandeyesnola.com 3708 Magazine Street, (504)891-4494, www.Artandeyesnola.com

ADORN & CONQUER Natural Druzy Stone with nature pressed silver, by local artist Maria Fomich. Adorn & Conquer showcases handmade jewelry and gifts from local and national artists. There’s something unique for everyone, ranging from $10-$400. Jewelry Artists are working in house, stop by and say hello!

Adorn & Conquer, 2727 Prytania St., The Rink, Suite 6, New Orleans, LA 70130 www.adornandconquer.com

QUEORK The cork Duffie bag is perfect for weekend getaways, not to mention its lightweight and even floats! Add a pair of cork Derby shoes and gift giving is solved! These products are designed right here in the French Quarter of New Orleans! 838 Chartres Street, 504-481-4910, www.queork.com

BEVOLO GAS AND ELECTRIC LIGHTS The Pool house Governor, from Bevolo is a designer’s dream. Fill the Holiday with a soft, romantic glow, or display wine corks, seashells, or flowers. Antique Copper or Stainless. 316/318 Royal St. French Quarter, 504-522-9485. Bevolo.com

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

RD HOME RD HOME offers you a selection of contemporary furnishings, home decor, unique gifts, and silk florals. You can let your imagination run wild when you visit RD HOME. It offers a timeless look for contemporary living. It has locally made Nouvelle Candles in a variety of scents.

2014 Magazine Street, Open Monday-Saturday 10am-6pm and Sunday 12pm-5pm. 504-523-9525, www.razzledazzle.com

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION THE SHOP AT THE COLLECTION Remember your time in New Orleans year after year with a keepsake ornament. These hand-blown glass ornaments come in multiple designs, each capturing a different aspect of the city’s colorful culture. Pieces start at $20; item shown is $38. Shipping available. 533 Royal St. Open Tu–Sa, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Su, 10:30 am–4:30 pm. (504) 598-7147. www.hnoc.org/shop.

WILD GIFT IDEA: AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE MEMBERSHIP Stuff their stocking with a Membership to Audubon Nature Institute! Membership is the gift that lasts all year. Purchase online with code HOLIDAY16 and give 13 months for the price of 12.

AudubonNatureInstitute.org

BIJOUNOLA New Designs from some of Poland’s most prestigious artists, starting at $169.00.

635 St. Peter St., 504.529.3001 www.bijounola.com.

FLEUR D’ORLEANS The Designers at Fleur d’ Orleans have created hundreds of jewelry and gift designs inspired by the architectural treasures of New Orleans. At the heart of the French Quarter the Cabildo (1795) was the seat of government during the colonial period. These unique earrings, inspired by a wrought iron balustrade on the Cabildo, celebrate New Orleans’ design heritage and history. 14KT gold plated earrings $50. Visit Fleur d’Orleans in the Quarter or on Magazine Street: 818 Chartres / 3701a Magazine 504.899.5585 / 504.475.5254

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Holiday Hits

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

VINTAGE CHANEL BRACELET Substantial gilt oval link with toggle clasp bracelet hung with seven large iconic Chanel charms. Circa 1986. Made in France. Vintage 329, 329 Royal Street NOLA, 504.525.2262

NOLA TIL YA DIE A trusted and favorite brand for locals and visitors alike. They have a great selection of unique apparel and accessories. Be sure to check out their Til Ya Die® collections…new this year!

There’s something for everyone.

Custom orders welcome.

3536 Toulouse St., Mid City, 504.281.4928, nolatilyadie.com

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION THE SHOP AT THE COLLECTION A new illustrated edition of Danny Barker’s autobiography—first published in 1986—brings the late jazz icon’s story back into print and adds fresh insight into his legacy. $39.95. Shipping available. 533 Royal St. Open Tu–Sa, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Su, 10:30 am–4:30 pm. (504) 598-7147. www.hnoc.org/shop.

WEHMEIER’S A family owned business since 1951, based on Al Wehmeier’s signature alligator betls and wallets. Wehmeier’s includes a whole range of exotic and fine leather belts, wallets, bags and accessories. Cowhide rugs and pillows for the home are also offered, in addition to ladies’ furs in season. Representing Lucchese boots. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd Fl., (504) 681-2082, www.wehmeiers.com

MAISON ROYALE Maison Royale offers fine art and exquisite jewelry. It is conveniently located in the heart of the French Quarter on the corner of Royal and St. Louis Streets. Stop by for the perfect gift for your loved ones, or treat yourself this holiday season! Opal earrings framed with brown diamonds and pink spinel, crafted in 18-karat blackened gold. $22,500. 501 Royal Street, 504.524.5045

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

VINTAGE 329 Specializing in vintage barware like these Culver Prado design with 22kt gold overlay “low ball” or “rocks” glasses. 329 Royal Street, (504) 525-2262

JACI BLUE At Jaci Blue, you’ll find gorgeous, fashion-forward clothing hand picked to flatter women sizes 12 and up. Arrive flawless to any holiday festivity in this Karen Kane lace peplum top with pencil skirt. Top $126 skirt $90 available in sizes 0X-3X. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929, www.jaciblue.com

SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERS “Award Winning Pralines, hand-made with the best ingredients, shipped fresh from the French Quarter”. 334 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA 70130, 504-523-5544, southerncandymakers.com

PORTER LYONS That moment. That place.

That person. The coordinate ID bracelet makes the perfect customizable gift. Available in brass, sterling, 24K or rose gold plate. You’ll find it at the Frenchmen Street Art Market, or customize your own at www.porterlyons.com.

SHOE BE DO New Orleans greatest addition, importing shoes from all over the globe. “Curing the world of ugly shoes, one foot at a time.” Shoe Be Do 324 Chartres St. 504.523.7463, ShoeBeDoUSA.com

QUEORK Queork is based in New Orleans, where we design all of our cork products. We are the only non-import based cork boutique in the USA. Lightweight, Scratch Resistant, Hypoallergenic, Waterproof, Mildew Resistant, Stain Resistant. 838 Chartres Street, 504-481-4910. www.queork.com

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the guide Dining December

On the Houses

Go Fish

The smell of gingerbread in the air signals the holidays’ arrival. You’ll catch a whiff of it all over the city this month, from the Convention Center, where the NOLA ChristmasFest (p.

17, shown) mounts a massive display, to Brennan’s (p. 29), where pastry chef Eric Perelli unveils his 2016 creation Dec. 11. The Roosevelt and Windsor Court hotels also offer edible artworks, as does the Ritz-Carlton (p. 79), which weighs in with a walk-through replica of Uptown’s famed “Wedding Cake House,” constructed from more the 1,000 pounds of gingerbread and 360 pounds of frosting. Make your own masterpiece Dec. 3 and 10 during the annual Gingerbread Workshop at Red Fish Grill (p. 31).

New Orleans celebrates its Sicilian heritage during December with the Feast of the Seven Fishes, a southern Italian holiday tradition. The family-style feast at GW Fins (p. 30)—featuring oysters, crab, lobster, clams, mussels, octopus and more—takes place Dec. 7, while Avo (p. 35, shown) offers its seafood-centric menu the entire month.

Central Business/ Warehouse District

COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Luicia,

homage to wartime classics, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kickedup throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, openface pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/americansector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 BALISE French. Chef Justin Devillier of La Petite

Grocery fame now has a second space in a beautifully restored 1830s building with smart cocktails and a small menu with depth. Must-haves include the fried smoked oysters and chicken and ricotta dumplings. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.balisenola.com. 640 Carondelet St., 504.459.4449. Map 3, C5 CAFÉ ADELAIDE Louisiana. Chef Meg Bickford

helms the kitchen at this bistro spinoff of Commander’s Palace in the Loews Hotel. Bickford serves up playful takes on modern Creole cuisine.

Try the oyster and pork belly po’ boy. B (daily), L (MF), D (M-Su). www.cafeadelaide.com. 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3305. Map 3, D6

space now entices with stunning small plates (sake-brined octopus) and well-made cocktails.

Try the chicken skin cracklin’ with avocado-cilantro de crema and “The Green Light District” made with gin, lime, basil and cucumber. $$ (D) M-Sa.). www.cellardoornola.com. 916 Lafayette St., 504.265.8392. Map 3, C4 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com.

535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 DOMENICA Italian. This hot spot is counted

among celebrated local chef John Besh’s growing family of restaurants. Dive into out-of-the-norm antipasta, handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship

sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created

(LEFT) ©NOLA CHRISTMAS FEST; (RIGHT) ©AVO

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

CELLAR DOOR Eclectic. Once a brothel, this arty

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DINING

many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (daily). www.emerils.com.

800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 HERBSAINT French. James Beard Award-winning

chef Donald Link’s entrées range from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com.

701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery, snapper crudo with browned butter

dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. The “Peanut Butter Pie Budino” is a must for dessert. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Sa-Su, brunch. www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MANNING’S Southern. The fun, casual menu at this

sports-themed restaurant puts fresh spins on tailgating classics. Chicken wings with a trio of sauces, alligator sausage dogs, crab sliders—one of everything, please. $$ L, D (daily). www.harrahsneworleans.com. 519 Fulton St., 504.593.8118. Map 3, D6

MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 MULATE’S Cajun. A family friendly restaurant

where the Cajun food (dark-roux gumbos, fried alligator, catfish smothered in crawfish etouffée) is only one of the highlights. Two-step to live music nightly. Also available for private functions. $ L, D (daily). www.mulates.com. 201 Julia St., 504.522.1492. Map 3, C7 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

P RIME L UNCH & C LASSIC C OCKTAILS

$1

Martini French 75 Old Fashioned

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Along with gourmet burgers, personal-

ized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap, live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www. thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. In New Orleans “red gravy” re-

fers to marinara sauce, and at this cozy restaurant, you’ll find rustic Italian specialties such as handmade pasta and homemade meatballs. Come for the Sicilian egg pie at brunch or hand-filled ravioli at dinner. $$ Brunch (daily); D (Th-Sa). www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5

Extended for the Holidays Weekdays December 13th – 23rd 11:30am - 2:30pm

RESTAURANT AUGUST French. In New Orleans,

chefs are as famous as rock stars, and John Besh is the city’s culinary Sting. He knows the classics, he’s bold in his experimentation and he’s got a vision. The dining rooms are elegant, and the food is spectacular, as Besh combines European style with Gulf Coast ingredients. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.restaurantaugust.com. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic oyster bar cast a

wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a wide wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (daily). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 TOMMY G’S PIZZERIA & BAR Italian. Convenient

to the Convention Center, this casual spot serves subs, a variety of pasta entrees, house-made lasagna, calzones and pizza whole or by the slice. $ L, D, (daily). www.tommygspizzeria.com. 901 Convention Center Blvd., 504.561.8881. Map 3, C8 WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chefs Lisa

Enjoy $1 classics during Prime Lunch!

Limit 3 per guest with the purchase of an entrée www.DickieBrennansSteakhouse.com

716 Iberville Street

504.522.2467

White and Kelly Fields, known for their beautiful baked goods, show off their savory sides as well in dishes such as corn-and-crab fritters and lamb pot pie. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

Central City MAÎS AREPAS Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian

restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 27

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THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 77-79.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................26

Central City..................................................................................................27 French Quarter........................................................................................28 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 32 Marigny/Bywater............................................................................ .......33 Mid-City..........................................................................................................34 Uptown..........................................................................................................35

H O L ID A Y F E S T IVIT IE S H A PPE N

TEDDY BEAR TEA | book online December 10, 11, 17, 18, 21, 22, 23 REVEILLON DINNER AT R’EVOLUTION CHRISTMAS DAY BRUNCH | book online Feast in our new Grand Ballroom PRIVATE EVENTS Book your holiday event in our all new Grand Ballroom, Fleur de Lis Suite with courtyard access, or in our unique Bourbon Balcony Hospitality Suites rsnosales@sonesta.com PAPA NOEL ROOM RATES FROM $149.

PROMO CODE: PAPA

300 Bourbon St | New Orleans, LA 504.586.0300 | 1.800.SONESTA Sonesta.com/RoyalNewOrleans

8132 Hampson St. 504.252.9928 carrolltonmarket.com

loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 PRIMITIVOSouthern. “Open hearth, urban cave-

man cooking” is the concept here. Inspired by backyard grill-offs, the menu changes often with dishes such as smoked oysters with green tomato chow chow and rib eye with bone-marrow butter. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.primitivonola.com. 1800 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.881.1775. Map 1, D3 TOUPS SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat, goat tamales and fried pork chops offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Su brunch. www.toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

French Quarter ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the Gulf shrimp and country ham with butterbeans and sweet potatoes. $$$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.angelinenola. com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

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DINING

ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brulot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); Su jazz brunch. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Nestled in a 200-year-old

Creole cottage, Bayona continues its reign as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled

shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BAYOU BURGER AND SPORTS COMPANY American. Beef up before (or after) the big game with

piled-high burgers and stacked hot dogs at this casual Bourbon Street spot. A large selection of local brews is also featured, along with a projection-screen TV and a balcony for viewing the street action below. www.bayouburgerco.com. 503 Bourbon St., 504.529.4256. Map 3, F4

BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (Tu-Su). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana. Located in a gorgeous

French Quarter courtyard and carriage house that was once home to Alice Heine, America’s first Princess of Monaco, this is the perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the crab cakes with citrus drizzle, satsuma-pepper glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. $$ L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Su brunch. A quick-service offshoot, Petite Amelie, offers takeout just next door (900 Royal St., 412-8065). www.cafeamelie.com. 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restau-

rant provides a taste of the tropics and the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu in dishes such as deep-fried ribs with papaya chutney. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); brunch, Sa-Su. www.caneandtablenola. com. 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (Tu-Sa). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, make for a memorable dining experience. $$ L, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 DESIRE OYSTER BAR Louisiana. In addition to its

trademark oysters on the half shell, this Bourbon Street bistro serves up Belgian waffles, po’ boys, burgers and entrées such as crawfish etouffeé and shrimp and grits. $ B, L, D (daily). www.sonesta. com. 300 Bourbon St. (in the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.586.0300. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces (try the barbecue ribeye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters). Featured by Maxim as one w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 29 101687-XX-156.indd 1 E~NO-WM_161200_06_g_Dining.indd NO-WM_161200_028-037.indd 29 29

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the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4

334 Royal St

7:00am-10:00pm

311 Bourbon St 8:00am-Midnight

DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-

house and butcher shop featuring superior quality dry-aged meats. The hunger-inducing menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan.com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4

Photo: Kaela Rodehorst Williams

GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has

taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4

Beignets, Coffees, breakfast & lunch menus, with “Local Libations” at the Bourbon Street location!

www.cafebeignet.com

KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.mrbsbistro. com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4

Celebrate the holidays with Creole Cookery!

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

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NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro is a perennial hot spot. The menu is filled with Emeril creations such as Louisiana crab cakes, pork cheek boudin balls and a grilled double-cut pork chop with pecan-glazed sweet potatoes. $$ L (Th-M), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com.

309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. $$$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www. revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SALON BY SUCRÉ Eclectic. Pastry chef extraordi-

naire Tariq Hanna’s homage to haute cuisine is a reflection of his passion for presentation of dishes both savory and sweet. Upstairs is the place for afternoon tea, a glass of wine and daily protein selections that can be ordered as an app or main course.

Downstairs it’s all about Hanna’s amazing desserts. $$ Brunch, D (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon.com.

622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south

of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B, L, D (daily). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance

meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the Korean beef po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, corned beef hash and w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 31

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ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com.

547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers

dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef Gus Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); brunch (SaSu). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4 TUJAGUE’S Creole. Open since 1856, Tujague’s

(“two-jacks”) ranks as one of the city’s oldest eateries. The restaurant serves a traditional Creole prix fixe menu (shrimp remoulade and beef brisket to start, followed by a choice of entrée and pecan pie), along with contemporary a la carte offerings. $$ L, D (daily); Sa-Su brunch.. www.tujaguesrestaurant.com. 823 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, H5

Garden District/ Lower Garden District CARIBBEAN ROOM Eclectic. This Garden District

gem, shuttered since the 1990s, was recently reopened by John Besh with chef Chris Lusk at the helm. Like the décor, the menu melds old and new, with long-popular favorites like Mile High Pie joining modern additions, such as wagyu beef and beet tartare. Jackets required; jeans discouraged. $$$ L (F), D (daily); Su brunch. www. thecaribbeanroom.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3 COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 EMERIL’S DELMONICO Creole. Located on the St.

Charles streetcar line, this elegant circa-1895 restaurant now serves chef Emeril Lagasse’s modern takes on Creole classics. Start with the house-made charcuterie, before moving on to dry-aged steaks, shrimp Bordelaise or reinvented drum meunière. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 1300 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.4937. Map 1, D3 MIYAKO SUSHI BAR & HIBACHI Japanese. Hibachis

are the draw here, but sushi lovers will be just as happy. Dexterous hibachi chefs wow guests, preparing lobster, prime rib, scallops and more.

Sushi, sashimi and tempura are also on the menu.

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$$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www.miyakonola.com. 1403 St. Charles Ave., 504.410.9997. Map 1, D3 ROOT/SQUARE ROOT Contemporary. Two hip

restaurants in one. Upstairs the focus is on chef Phillip Lopez’s contemporary twists on culinary standards and creative charcuterie. Downstairs centers around 16 seats flanking an open kitchen and Lopez’s multi-course tasting menu (online reservations only). $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.squarerootnola. com. 1800 Magazine St., 504.309.7800. Map 1, D4 SUCRÉ Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for

the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre.com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti. St., 504.708.4366. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and hot mustard, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L, D (W-Su). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. A Sunday-only treasure no

more. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is now a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard.

Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual dining. Dive into amped-up apps (octopus and pickled pork, sweetbreads with white beans), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as seared scallops with mascarpone grits and chateaubriand for two. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su (brunch). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 THE JOINT Barbecue. This funky Bywater fave

is slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. Featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. $ L, D (M-Sa). www.alwayssmokin.com. 701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232. Map 1, E3 MARIZA Italian. Chef/owner Ian Schnoebelen’s

cozy-chic Italian-inspired space in the trendy Rice Mill Lofts. Try the goat-ricotta bruschetta, yellowfin tuna carpaccio or black linguini with shrimp and crab. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.marizaneworleans.com.

2900 Chartres St., 504.598.5700. Map 1, E3 NEW ORLEANS CAKE CAFÉ & BAKERY Dessert.

Steven “the Cake Man” Himelfarb offers breakfast and lunch at his charming Bywater café, but it’s cake that’s the beloved baker’s calling card. Bananas Foster with banana icing, classic red velvet— yummy. $$ B, L (W-M). www.nolacakes.com. 2440 Chartres St., 504.943.0010. Map 3, K6 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au natural. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 33

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center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); brunch (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

lstunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3 THREE MUSES Eclectic. This Frenchmen Street hot

spot offers a clubby vibe, live music, smart cocktails and amazing eats. Raves are drawn for the menu’s variety and chef Daniel Esses’ stellar preparations of small plate-portioned lamb sliders and seasonal eggrolls. $ D (W-M). www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 CAFÉ NOMA Contemporary. Located within the

New Orleans Museum of Art, Ralph Brennan’s contemporary bistro offers an artful mix of small plates, soups, salads and sandwiches. $ L (Tu-Su), D (F). www.cafenoma.com. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle 104853-XX-57.indd 1 (City Park), 504.482.1264. Map 1, D2

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DOOKY CHASE Creole. One of the oldest African-

American restaurants in the nation. Chef Leah Chase, “the Queen of Creole Cuisine,” has built a large and loyal following with classic dishes, such as her seemingly simple red beans and rice, steaming gumbo and crispy-yet-tender fried chicken. $$ L (Tu-F), D (F). www.dookychaserestaurant.com.

2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3 MOPHO Vietnamese. Chef Mike Gulotta rocks

modern Vietnamese-inspired dishes at his naughty-named restaurant near the Canal streetcar line. The sweet-and-spicy chicken wings and pepper jelly-glazed clams are must-haves. $$ L, D (daily). www.mophonola.com. 514 City Park Ave., 504.482.6845. Map 1, D2 PIROGUES Eclectic. Convenient to the Fair

Grounds, this friendly neighborhood spot gets its name from the boat hanging behind the bar. Open late, the focus is on lite bites—paninis, crawfish sausage, chili-cheese tater tots—beer, wine and cocktails. $ L, D (W-M). www.piroguesnola.com.

2565 Bayou Rd., 504.948.6349. Map 1, E2 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran

restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park.

One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

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meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with eggplant and cranberries and lasagna with short rib ragou. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE Southern. Chef/owner Nathaniel

Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their budget-friendly prices. Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’ boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.boucherie-nola.com. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet.

No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 3, C3 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beauti-

ful deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Ben Thibodeaux’s casual coastal cuisine. Start with the scallop crudo or Old Bay-seasoned fries, before moving on to the seared Gulf fish. $ D (nightly); F-Su brunch. www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon). Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant. com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. What once was a

corner grocery has been exquisitely transformed into an intimate bistro where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.lapetitegrocery.com.

4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE American. A New Orleans

landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa).

1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of

modern Israel at this award-winning eatery from chef Alon Shaya. Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel and kebabs, along with interesting entrees such as lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant. com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 SLICE Italian. As its name suggests, this popular

pizzeria offers New York-style pies by the slice, as well as whole. Along with a large selection of topnotch toppings, pasta dishes, calzones and subs are featured, in addition to soups, salads, beer and wine. $ L, D (daily). www.slicepizzeria.com. 5538 Magazine St., 504.897.4800. Map 1, D4; 1513 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.7437. Map 1, D3 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 35

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Shopping

Sugarplum Central

Museum-Quality Gifts

Searching for a sweet stocking stuffer? Guide the sleigh to Sucré (p. 33, shown) for mouthwatering macarons and handcrafted chocolates in range of seasonal flavors (eggnog, peppermint, hot chocolate, gingerbread). Step into Rocket Fizz (p. 40), packed with retrominded goodies (rock candy, Necco wafers) and offbeat gift items (inflatable turkeys, squirrel underpants), and you’ll think you’ve stepped out of a wayback machine. Venture even further back in time at La Riviére Confiserie (p. 40), where serious sweet tooths are catered to with authentic French confections, such as praslines, which, though they may be pronounced the same, tastes nothing like their Louisiana cousin.

Add a little Crescent City charm to your holidays with works by local crafters from the gift shop at the Historic New Orleans Collection (p. 60), where you’ll find everything from oyster-shell trees to alligator ornaments. Stock up on Jill Sampine’s Christmas stockings that incorporate images of local icons, such as St. Louis Cathedral.

Clothing

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

AMERICAN APPAREL Everyone needs

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel Soldiers’ Pay. First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, along with a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 KITCHEN WITCH New, used and vintage cook-

books are on the menu at this charming shop geared to foodies. Special emphasis is placed on Southern titles and rare volumes devoted to Creole and Cajun cuisine. www.kwcookbooks.com. 1452 Broad St., 504.528.8382. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5

H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is

known around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-to-resist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with hip home accents. www.hm.com.

418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5

wheretraveler.com

those wardrobe staples—basic Ts and tanks, jeans and sweats—and that’s exactly what you’ll find (in just about any color you can image) at the local branch of this international chain. www.americanapparel.net.

3310 Magazine St., 504.895.4970. Map 1, D4 BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New Orleans

couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityinspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 FLEURTY GIRL When Lauren Thom began printing

T-shirts in her kitchen in 2009 little did she know just how big the small venture would become.

Today her popular designs celebrating local culture are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net.

3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3

HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3308 Magazine St., 504.269.4005. Map 1, D4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 KIT AND ACEThis lululemon offshoot is known for

its line of “technical cashmere” clothing. Geared to both sexes, the chic shop’s luxe street wear is both versatile and machine-washable. www.kitandace. com. 3913 Magazine St., 844.548.6223. Map 1, D4 LILI VINTAGE BOUTIQUE Retro rules at this chic

shop, where yesteryear’s castoffs are given new leases on life. The hand-selected inventory is top-quality and constantly changing. Costume jewelry and other accessories are also featured. www.lilivintage.com. 3329 Magazine St., 504.891.9311. Map 1, D4 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City

LOVE MIGNON FAGET’S GLASSWARE so much you want to make it your own? You can. Designs may be personalized with names and logos or for special occasions.

(LEFT) ©SUCRÉ; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Books & Music

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

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love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie. com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 PENELOPE Affordable luxury is the key phrase at

this sophisticated women’s boutique. Searching for edgy elegance with a European accent? You’ll find it here at hard-to-beat prices: All items are under $100. 328 Chartres St., 504.522.5893. Map 3, F4 PIPPEN LANE Go ahead and spoil the child at this

upscale boutique, which features fine designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, stylish Eu-

ropean shoes, custom furniture and embroidered linens. www.pippenlane.com. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4 RUBENSTEIN’S The Rubenstein family has been

outfitting locals since 1924. But the fashions here are anything but dated: Zegna, Canali and Paul Smith are just a sampling of the designers in stock. www.rubensteinsneworleans.com. 102 St. Charles Ave., 504.581.6666. Map 3, E4 TOTAL WOMAN This boutique offers such design-

ers as Diane von Furstenberg, Trina Turk, Vince and Shin Choi, in addition to shoes and accessories

by Tracy Reese, Robert Rodriguez and Gucci. www.totalwomanola.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.891.3964. Map 1, D4 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4 WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European womenswear,

from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by such leading designers as Piazza Sempione and Stella McCartney. www.weinsteinsinc.com. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including

’

designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 CENTER FOR SOUTHERN CRAFT AND DESIGN The

The Shops at Canal Place 333 Canal Street, Second Level New Orleans, LA 70130 www.wehmeiers.com • 504-681-2082

Ogden Museum of Southern Art gift shop showcases one-of-a-kind glass, metal, wood, ceramic and fabric items, along with jewelry designed and crafted by Southern artists. Books, CDs and T-shirts celebrating Southern culture are also offered. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM

Watch master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. Among the specialty styles made here are Plantation Reserve and Vieux Carré. www.cigarfactoryneworleans.com. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. Map 3, E4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything form clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop which offers hand-crafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 37

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vintage

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com.

CHANEL

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 77-79.

Index Books & Music ......................................................................................... 36

Clothing........................................................................................................ 36 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 37 Gourmet Food & Spirits ................................................................. 39 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 40 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 40 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 40 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 41 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 42 Shoes............................................................................................................... 42 Special Services...................................................................................... 42

GEM DE FRANCE Where do French Quarter Franco-

philes go for authentic French Country table linens, shea-butter soaps and trés chic home accents? To Gem de France, naturally, where you’ll find plenty of Parisian imports to ooh-la-la over. www.gemdefrance.com. 729 Royal St., 504.571.6304. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 HOMEBASE Kick your souvenir shopping up a

notch with a visit to Emeril Lagasse’s corporate headquarters, which stocks everything from aprons and toques to a full line of the celebrity chef’s cookbooks, cookware and spices. www.emerils. com. 829 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4241. Map 3, B5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

everything from toys and kitchen accessories to sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. are also available. www.ideafactoryneworleans.com.

924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.magicboxneworleans.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 THE MASK GALLERYAustrian crystals, hand-

tolled leather and fanciful feathers are the signature touches of maskmaker Massoud Dalili’s colorful Carnival creations. 841 Royal St., 504.523.6664. Map 3, F4 MASKARADE A small shop offering one of the larg-

est selections of Venetian masks in the country, in addition to hundreds of handmade masks by local

H

oliday Home Tour - Sunday, December 18. Savor the holiday spirit and tour French Quarter residences dressed for the season. The Patio Planters tour includes interesting architectural styles and home furnishings, as well as a variety of Christmas decorations. A fundraiser for and prelude to Caroling in Jackson Square later in the evening. Homes open 1-4 p.m.

Tickets: $20 (children under 12 free) at Creole Delicacies, 533 St. Ann Street (at Jackson Square), and at French Quarter Gem & Lapidary, 527 St. Philip Street (near Decatur).

C

aroling in Jackson Square Sunday, December 18, 7 p.m. (gates open at 6:30) Sponsored by The Patio Planters of the Vieux Carre since 1946, Caroling in Jackson Square is a truly moving holiday tradition held every year by candlelight on the Sunday before Christmas.

Free and open to the public. Candles and songsheets provided.

For more information, to become a member, sign up for a newsletter, or to make a 501(c)(3) donation, please visit

537 ROYAL ST 2048 MAGAZINE ST trashydiva.com 504.299.3939

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and international artists. www.themaskstore.com.

630 St. Ann St., 504.568.1018. Map 3, G4 MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are

showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique.

A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. iheartmiette.com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4 MOONSHINE NETTIE Kicked-up kitsch is the trade-

mark of this women’s boutique. Vintage clothing, funky jewelry, glitter makeup, tutus, tiaras—if it’s fun and fab, you’ll find it here. 901 Chartres St., 504.523.7625. Map 3, H4 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s

boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4

YOUR JEWELRY ISN’T JUST JEWELRY

719 ROYAL STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 504.522.0222 504.522.9222 Some jewelry displayed patented (US Pat. No. 7,007,507) • © 2015 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved • PANDORA.NET

PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 PLUM This hip home and gift shop is devoted to

“cool stuff for stylish living,” much of which is created by local crafters. Handmade housewares, artful accents, jazzy jewelry: If it’s both fun and functional, you’ll likely find it here. www.plumneworleans.com.

1914 Magazine St., 504.897.3388. Map 1, D4 RAZZLE DAZZLE Searching for great gift items?

Step into this French Quarter boutique, where Mardi Gras masks and collectibles are coupled with jewerly, locally made candles, seasonal home accents and more. www.razzledazzle.com. 742 Royal St., 504.568.0001. Map 3, G4 RED ARROW WORKSHOP Louisiana-themed gifts,

art prints, handmade leather goods and apparel can be found at this hip shop. Opened as an extension of its Lafayette home base, the store features work by dozens of New Orleans and Acadian artists. www.redarrowworkshop.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.5304. Map 1, D4 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP Interested in the

occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 SANTA’S QUARTERS Get your Christmas fix at this

holiday-themed shop—the South’s largest—selling nativity sets, specialty lights and locally crafted ornaments year-round. www.santasquartersno. com. 1027 Decatur St., 504.581.5820. Map 3, H5 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com.

5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2

Gourmet Food & Spirits AUNT SALLY’S PRALINE SHOP Chances are you’ll

catch the sweet scent of Aunt Sally’s clear down w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 39

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the block. Created from Louisiana cane sugar and pecans, pralines are made fresh daily in the store’s kitchen. The shelves are also stocked with Crescent City souvenir items. www.auntsallys.com. 810 Decatur St., 504.524.3373. Map 3, H5 BITTERSWEET CONFECTIONS Confectioner Cheryl

Scripter has built a strong following with her incredible truffle collections. Her Warehouse District location also offers fresh pastries, coffees and teas, along with delicious cakes, cookiesand handmade nonparelis. www.bittersweetconfections.com. 725 Magazine St., 504.523.2626. Map 3, C6 BLUE FROG CHOCOLATES Chocolate gets

elevated to an art form at this oh-so-sweet shop, which features delectable imported and domestic chocolates, truffles, Italian candy flowers, pralines and other New Orleans specialties. www.bluefrogchocolates.com. 5707 Magazine St., 504.269.5707. Map 1, D4 KEIFE & CO. There’s a hushed library feel to this

way through several walls of wonderful oils, vinegars and spirits. Select from a wild array of “from the cask” flavors—from chili-fig vinegar to nutty pistachio oil. www.vomfassusa.com. 29 Carondelet St., 504.302.1455. Map 3, E4 WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2 WINE INSTITUTE NEW ORLEANS In addition to

recreational wine classes and private tasting sessions, this shop/school offers fine vintages for sale, along with a tasting room featuring 120 wines for sampling. www.winoschool.com. 610 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.8000. Map 3, D6

Hats & Accessories

beautifully curated wine and spirits shop, with floor-to-ceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5

BELLA UMBRELLA Cloudy skies? This shop helps

LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.809.1026. Map 1, D4 LAURA’S CANDIES Laura’s confectionery dates

to 1913, making it the oldest candy store in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent “Mississippi Mud.” www.laurascandies. com. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 535 Decatur St., 504.309.2540. Map 3, F5 MARTIN WINE CELLAR Wine Spectator has recog-

nized Martin Wine as one of the country’s premier emporiums of fine vintages and gourmet food items. www.martinwine.com. 3827 Baronne St., 504.899.7411. Map 1, D4; 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, 504.896.7300. Map 1, C2 ROCKET FIZZ Candy connoisseurs get their fill

at this oh-so-sweet shop, packed with nostalgic sweets and novelty treats. A large selection of British and Asian imports is offered, along with hundreds of sodas in fun flavors. www.rocketfizz. com. 831 Decatur St., 504.566.7500. Map 3, H5 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on buying from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4 SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERSYou can catch a sugar

buzz just walking through the door of this French Quarter sweets shop, known for its pralines, toffees and tortues (turtles). www.southerncandymakers. com. 334 Decatur St., 504.523.5544. Map 3, F5; 1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170. Map 3, H5 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4 VOM FASS Pop into this local branch of the growing

German chain of condiment stores, and taste your

you keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrella. www.bellaumbrella.com.

504.529.8945. Map 1, D4 when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2123 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country,. www. meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.899.9299. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.701.1858. Map 1, D4 WEHMEIER’S This emporium stocks a wide

variety of super-premium items in exotic leathers, including alligator, ostrich and lizard belts, bags and accessories. Fine leather boots for both men and women from Lucchese, Old Gringo and Lane are featured. www.wehmeiers.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.681.2082. Map 3, E5

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 AVERY FINE PERFUMERY This artisanal fragrance

”smell gallery” is one of only four in the world and

the Italian-based InterTrade Europe group’s sole stateside location. Hard-to-find niche brands such as Blood Concept and Nez à Nez are featured. www.averyfineperfumeries.com. 527 St. Joseph St., 504.522.7102. Map 3, B6

Ex Ch

FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick?

It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.

Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 MECCA ESSENTIAL SALTS & BATH PRODUCTS

Over the past two decades Mecca Davis has traveled the South, searching out natural skin-care remedies. The result is her popular line of organic bath bombs and scented Epsom salts, found at the French Market. www.meccaessential.com. French Market, 504.408.3402. Map 3, H5 THE REMEDY ROOM Overindulged? This innovative

clinic helps visitors rebound from travel sickness, hangovers and overeating through rehydration therapy, using vitamins, minerals and antioxidants.

Reservations required. www.theremedyroom.com.

1224 St. Charles Ave., 504.301.1670. Map 3, A6 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

123 Baronne St., 504.335.3190. Map 3, E3 THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City

branch of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments—reflexology, volcanic stone massages, seaweed wraps, expresso-mud scrubs—along with rejuvenating facials, manicures, pedicures and more. www. neworleans.woodhousespas.com. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3

Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY“Bohemian luxury” is the

concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. www.akastellagray.com. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 THE ARTISTIC HOMEThis Magazine Street spot

features home furnishings made by local artists.

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B

books, toys, gifts & apparel

Jason Kruppa, Aura No. 1, 2016

Southern Exotic

131 Decatur St. New Orleans, LA 70130 www.c l a i reel i z ab ethg allery.co m

COUTELIER Form and function combine at this Riv-

erbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are knife-sharpening services, cookbooks and other kitchen accessories. www.nolaknifeworks.com. 8239 Oak Street, 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3 THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

FOR INFANTS, TODDLERS AND CHILDREN

nola kids

St. a r tre s 333 Ch 6.134 0 5 0 4.56 aily Open d

www.facebook.com/nolakids

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Shoppers can find everything from handmade jewelery to tables, chairs and coffee tables made from reclaimed materials. 1920 Magazine St., 985.869.3339. Map 1, D4

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls.

Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4 HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5515 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 LOOMED NOLA Hand-woven cotton, linen and

silk in a range of colors forms the basis of the organic Turkish textiles found here. Scarves, robes, towels and bedcovers are among the offerings. www.loomednola.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.304.2047. Map 1, D4

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LUM Looking for an authentic elk-hoof lamp or a

pair fashioned from antique wooden wallpaper rolls? You’ll find them at this trés chic vintage lighting store, along with everything from rare 1920s Japanese pewter lamps to oh-so-’70s corkand-chrome models. www.shoplum.com. 3806 Magazine St., 504.939.1474. Map 1, D4 NADINE BLAKE Interiors maven Blake is redefin-

ing the idea of French Quarter chic at her sleek décor boutique. Home furnishings and accessories with a contemporary twist are featured, along with creative gift items. 1036 Royal St., 504.529.4913. Map 3, H4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4

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RAZZE DAZZLE HOME Contemporary furnishings

and tableware meld with estate pieces at this home decor shop. www.razzledazzle.com. 2014 Magazine St., 504.523.9525. Map 1, D4 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

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lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4

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WEST ELM This local branch of the mid-century

minded home furnishings store is indicative of the new New Orleans and Magazine Street’s increasingly modernist movement. Handcrafted goods from around the globe are coupled with items crafted by local artisans. www.westelm.com 2929 Magazine St., 504.895.2469. Map 1, D4

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Jewelry ADLER’S Since 1898, Adler’s has been New Or-

leans’ most respected repository for fine jewelry,

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THE GUIDE

SHOPPING

watches, china and silver. www.adlersjewelry.com.

722 Canal St., 504.523.5292. Map 3, E4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.523.1952. Map 1, C2 ADORN & CONQUER Metalsmith Maria Fomich cre-

ates handmade jewelry on site at this small space in the Rink shopping center. New Orleans elements (shotgun houses, streetcars) and bits of nature (leaf and bone imprints) are featured in her designs and works by national crafters. www.adornandconquer. com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.702.8036. Map 1, D4 ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. www.artandeyesnola.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 DASHKA ROTH CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY & JUDA ICA Thanks to her studies at Rhode Island School

of Design, Roth brings a well-trained eye to the selections offered at her gallery, which specializes in handmade jewelry and Judaica by nationwide artists. www.dashkaroth.com. 332 Chartres St., 504.523.0805. Map 3, F4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St.

Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. As its name suggests, fleurs de lis are prominent, with more than 75 different designs featured. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 JACK SUTTON FINE JEWELRY The Sutton family has

a long history in New Orleans, and Jack Sutton has long been regarded as one of the Crescent City’s leading purveyors of diamond jewelry. Classic and contemporary collections are featured, along with antique reproductions. www.jacksutton.com. 365 Canal St., 504.522.8080. Map 3, E5 KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 KREWE DU OPTIC Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett

has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.kreweduoptic.com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2945. Map 3, H4 LA PETIT FLEUR Specializing in estate and contem-

porary jewelry, La Petit Fleur is well known for its own line of pendants based ont the fleur de lis, now widely embraced as the symbol of New Orleans’ rebirth. The shop also offers Crescent City-themed charms. www.lapetitfleur.com. 534 Royal St., 504.522.1305. Map 3, G4 MARION CAGE “Jewelry is a form of architecture,

and the body is its landscape” is the mantra of Marion Cage McCollam, whose elegant, minimalist creations reflect her industrial-design training.

Cool home accents and hardware are also featured. www.marioncage.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.891.8848. Map 1, D4 MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 QUARTER PAST TIME Vintage watches are

the main staple of this French Quarter shop, along with antique radios, lighters, jewelry, silver, and other collectibles. 606 Chartres St., 504.410.0010. Map 3, G4 SABAI Trips to the Far East keep the merchandise

at this shop stylish. The large selection of silver and gold jewelry is accented with unusual fossils and minerals. www.sabaijewelry.com. 3115 Magazine St., 504.899.9555. Map 1, D4 TIFFANY & CO. Founded in 1837 as “a stationery

and fancy goods emporium,” Tiffany’s has since become synonymous with top-of-the-line luxury jewelry, and famed worldwide for its signature blue boxes. www.tiffany.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 800.843.3269. Map 3, E5 WARBY PARKERAffordable eyewear and

Mid-Century Modern stylishness are Warby Parker’s trademarks. An in-store photo studio lets customers email images of their new glasses to friends, or to themselves and then purchase later online. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.799.2830. Map 1, D4 WELLINGTON & COMPANY This shop is largely

devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. A large selection of diamond engagement rings is also featured, along with new designer lines such as Thistle & Bee. www.wcjewelry.com. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4

Malls/Major Retailers GULFPORT PREMIUM OUTLETS It may be an hour’s

drive, but a day trip to this popular outlet mall is well worth the investment for bargain hunters. The sprawling complex offers deep savings at more than 70 leading retailers (from Ann Taylor and J. Crew to Coach and Nike), along with a food court to keep shoppers fueled and on the go. Open daily. www.premiumoutlets.com. 10000 Factory Shops Blvd., Gulfport, Miss., 228.867.6100.

JAX BREWERY This 1891 brewhouse is now a

riverfront marketplace with three levels of shops and restaurants. www.jacksonbrewery.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.566.7245. Map 3, G5 LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, the Disney Store, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Canal Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more

than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. Adjacent to the Convention Center, Riverwalk is within walking distance of the CBD and French Quarter. www.riverwalkmarketplace.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7 THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace. com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Shoes AEROSOLES This shoe store offers specially con-

structed, moderately priced designs in updated styles. www.aerosoles.com. 510 St. Peter St., 504.529.7463. Map 3, G5 DONALD J. PLINER This Canal Place retailer is

devoted to shoes, handbags and accessories from designer Donald J. Pliner. www.donaldjpliner.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.522.1720. Map 3, E5 FEET FIRST More than 50 lines of women’s brand-

name shoes, handbags, jewelry and accessories are offered here, along with items by local designers. www.feetfirststores.com. 526 Royal St. 504.569.0005. Map 3, G4; 4122 Magazine St., 504.899.6800. Map 1, D4 GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction” of-

fers high-fashion women’s shoes without the high prices that usually accompany them. Get a step ahead with a large selection of cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers.

324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4 VICTORIA’S One of the city’s leading purvey-

ors of women’s fine footwear, featuring such sought-after designers as Jimmy Choo, Vera Wang and Robert Clergerie. 4858 Magazine St., 504.899.8878. Map 1, D4

Shipping Services FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In

addition to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility offers Internet access, copying and faxing services. www.frenchquarterpostal.com. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4

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THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques Expose Yourself Contemporary photography is the focus of the 10th annual PhotoNOLA event Dec. 8-11. The citywide showcase features more than 20 exhibitions at galleries, museums and other venues. Along with a look at obstruction and photography and a retrospective of 20th-century great Kenneth Josephson, the New Orleans Museum of Art (p. 60) plays host to Finnish photographer and keynote speaker Arno Minkinnen, while the Ogden Museum (p. 60) spotlights Maude Schuyler Clay’s Mississippi portraiture. Other must-sees include the surrealist works of Clarence John Laughlin at the Historic New Orleans Collection’s Laura Simon Nelson Galleries (p. 60), Frank Relle’s nocturnal swamp scenes at his French Quarter gallery (p. 46, shown) and a group salute to second-line parades at the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Center (p. 51). For a full lineup, visit photonola.org.

ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 608 Julia St., 504.309.0394. Map 3, C5 ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multime-

dia artist Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well.

Regional and international artists are featured. www.boydsatellitegallery.com. 440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY Contem-

porary Louisiana artists, both established and emerging, are spotlighted here. Works by Michael Guidry, Bob Graham and others are featured. www.brandartnola.com. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery

offers contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.

JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’

preeminent exhibition space for AfricanAmerican artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www.stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

wheretraveler.com

gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary

is the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. www. martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s

most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery. com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert, Steve Taylor, Charles Thysell and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com.

241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4

WHOLESOME HOLIDAY SCENES give way to something more sinister in Chris Roberts-Antieau’s “Tragic Snow Globe” series—a perfect gift for the offbeat art lover on your list.

©FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRPAHY

Central Business/ Warehouse District

callancontemporary.com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6

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THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 77-79.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 44

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 44 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................48 Other Locations .................................................................................... 49

Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4 CALLAN FINE ART Specializing in fine European

paintings from 1830 to 1950, this prestigious gallery features museum-quality examples from the Academic, Barbizon, Impressionistic and Post-Impressionist movements as well as select contemporary works. www.callanfineart.com. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.0025. Map 3, F4 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FOUNDATION GALLERY This gallery is as in-

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern

France on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18thcentury antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4; 611 & 619 Royal St. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French

novative as the Louisiana artists it spotlights.

A portion of proceeds from monthly rotating exhibits benefits New Orleans nonprofits. www. foundationgallerynola.com. 1109 Royal St., 504.568.0955. Map 3, H4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis

and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 HARRIS ANTIQUES One of the finest antiquaries in

the Quarter, carrying an extensive array of French

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and English antiques, paintings, Oriental rugs and statuary. www.harrisantiques.com. 233 Royal St., 504.523.1605. D4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European porcelain, in addition to marble and bronze statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JACK SUTTON ANTIQUES This emporium is an el-

egantly decorated living room filled with 19th- and 20th-century decorative antiques, vintage watches, fine jewelry, dinnerware and paintings. 315 Royal St., 504.522.0555. Map 3, F4 JAMES H. COHEN & SONS This fifth-generation,

family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items. www.cohenantiques.com. 437 Royal St., 504.524.0802. Map 3, F4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and

fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals

in international oil paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in

objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality

jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MAISON ROYALE Original impressionistic and post-

impressionistic oilworks are the focus here. Featured artists include Camille Pisarro, Maurice Utrillo and Raoul Dufy, among others. www.maisonroyale. com. 501 Royal St., 504.524.5045. Map 3, F4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MARTIN WELCH ART Martin “the Crab Man” Welch

has been capturing crustaceans on canvas since 2002. His brightly hued, sea-themed works have been showcased at the New Orleans Museum of Art as well as on the HBO series “Treme.” www.martinwelchart.com. 223 Dauphine St., 504.388.4240. Map 3, F3 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery,

which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily

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THE GUIDE

from England and France. www.mossantiques.com.

411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 PHOTO WORKS This gallery showcases the work of

photographer Louis Sahuc, known for his dramatic shots of the city, which have been called “the quintessential images of New Orleans.” Sahuc specializes in black-and-white, but also creates vivid color prints. www.photoworksneworleans.com. 521 St. Ann St., 504.593.9090. Map 3, G5 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 938 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented here are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocraftscom. The Shops at Cnal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.523.79454. Map 3, E5

617 Bienville Street | New Orleans

michalopoulos.com

RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4

SWAYED AND SMILEY 36 X 48

SWAMP DOG AND FRIENDS Art goes to the dogs

at this charming gallery, which is devoted to the canine-centric works of fine-art photographer Robin Bell. Signed and numbered prints are featured, along with gift items. www.swampdogandfriends. com. 831 Royal St., 985.413.3721. Map 3, H4 TRESOR GALLERY Offbeat illustration, macabre

assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured. www.tresorgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.309.3991. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for history and Hollywood

buffs, this hip shop is filled with maps, signed collectibles and one-of-a-kind jewelry. Marilyn Monroe glamour pics, first-edition novels and assorted music memorabilia are among the many offerings.

329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WHISNANT GALLERIES In this showroom, fine art

and furnishings from the 16th through 20th centuries vie for attention amid 19th-century bronze and marble sculpture, Georgian jewelry, religious art, weaponry and African and Asian antiquities. www.whisnantgalleries.com. 343 Royal St., 504.524.9766. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine

works in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by ToulouseLautrec. www.windsorfineart.com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown AS YOU LIKE IT SILVER SHOP This shop stocks silver

flatware in hundreds of active and inactive patterns 48 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2016

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GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

to complete an existing set or begin a new one.

Browse among tea services, goblets and more. www.asyoulikeitsilvershop.com. 3033 Magazine St., 504.897.6915. Map 1, D4 CAROL ROBINSON GALLERY Spotlighting local and

national artists, this gallery showcases paintings, sculpture and ceramics. www.carolrobinsongallery. com. 840 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.6130. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art

THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O This innovative de-

new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

623 royAL street

French quArter

this Uptown studio, with it pop-art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4

new orLeAns

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

sign gallery is the showplace of “techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann, you’ll also find designs by other contemporary metalsmiths. www.thomasmann.com. 1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2113. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture found here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Other Locations DR. BOB’S STUDIO ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Mariah Carey and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net.

3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3 5 PRESS GALLERY Part of the New Orleans Center

for Creative Arts, this airy space spotlights works by professional artists with strong ties to the nationally acclaimed high school, from notable alumni to visiting artists-in-residence. www.5pressgallery.com. 5 Press St., 504.249.5624. Map 1, E3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKET This plein air art market

fills an alley tucked among Frenchmen Street’s famed music halls. From handcrafted jewelery to handmade soaps to folk art, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares. Open Th-Su, 7 pm-1 am. 619 Frenchmen St., 504.941.1149. Map 3, J5 ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic

Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8 STUDIO BE Breakout local artist Brandan Odums’

giant graffiti-style murals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space in the Bywater neighborhood. The evocative collection explores African-American life, from the Civil Rights era to the Black Lives Matter movement, through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm. www.ephemeraleternal.com. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 49

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THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Now Dash Away! Dash Away! Dash Away All!

War and Remembrance

Bad Santas are in for a good time Dec. 17, when thousands of them take to the streets of the Warehouse District for the sixth annual Running of the Santas. A fundraiser for families of fallen Air Force heroes, the outlandish, alcohol-fueled affair features runners dressed as Mr. and Mrs. Claus, red-nosed reindeer, inebriated elves and other holiday figures. The nog gets flowing around 2 pm at the “South Pole” (aka Manning’s, p. 27), where the four-block journey to the “North Pole” (Generations Hall, 310 Andrew Higgins Dr.) kicks off at 6 pm, followed by a very merry costume contest. For more info, visit runningofthesantas.com.

The National WWII Museum (p. 60) salutes the 75th anniversary of the attack on Pearl Harbor with a variety of commemorative events Dec. 7. Throughout the day re-enactors in uniform allow visitors to get handson with history, while first-person accounts and panel discussions offer insight into “a date which will live in infamy.”

ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $24.95 adults, $18.95 seniors and $18.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUMLocated in the circa-1860 U.S. Custom

House, this ranks as the nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $19.95 adults, $14.95 seniors, $14.95 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

There’s a lot more going on this month Visit us online:

year. www.champions-square.com. 1500 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Poydras St., 504.587.3822. Map 3, B2 Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. wheretraveler.com CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide $19.95 adults, $14.95 seniors, $14.95 a lush canopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from oasis, larger even than New York’s Central St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Opens at 10 Park. www.neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous am daily; call for closing times. www.audubonAve., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or CEMETERIES New Orleans’ “cities of the dead” act climb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres as windows on the past, offering insight into local streets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, just outside promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter the Quarter, is the city’s oldest; Lafayette No. 1 in to the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers the Garden District draws fans of vampire novelist jogging and biking paths, a dog run and pictureAnne Rice, who set a number of her works there. perfect picnic areas www.crescentparknola.org.

Many are located in high-crime areas. Tours are . Map 3, J6 available; do not venture in alone, day or night.

ENTERGY GIANT SCREEN THEATER Eye-popping CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEM features are shown on a five-and-a-half-story ETERYJust down the river from where Andrew screen. $10.50 adults, $9.50 seniors, $8 ages 2-12.

Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears Opens at 10 am daily; call for schedule and closhis name is the battlefield where he fought the last ing times. Eye-popping features are shown on a battle of the War of 1812. History buffs can check five-and-a-half-story screen. $10.50 adults, $9.50 out the visitors center, listen to daily ranger talks, seniors, $8 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for explore Chalmette Nartional Cemetery, or relax schedule and closing times. www.auduboninstiunder the park’s live oaks. https://www.nps.gov/ tute.org. Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, 1 jela/chalmette-battlefield.htm. 8606 W St Bernard Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 Hwy., 504.281.0510. Map 1, F3 ESCAPE MY ROOMThe concept of this live, interacCHAMPIONS SQUAREThis open-air venue, adjative game is simple—solve the puzzle within an cent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, plays host hour and you and your teammates “escape” the to free fan fests during New Orleans Saints home mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and games and numerous concerts throughout the fun) than that. A great activity for families and

THE NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM, which continues to expand, is ranked by TripAdvisor as New Orleans’ top tourist destination and the third most-popular museum in the U.S.

(LEFT) ©RUNNING OF THE SANTAS; (RIGHT) ©NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

Attractions & Landmarks

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than

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group team-building. Reservations required. www.escapemyroom.com. 633 Constance St., 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6 FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market

dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served as a native American trading post. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Place, 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 FULTON ALLEY Putting a fresh spin on the old

bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with an indoor game parlor (bocce, foosball, etc.), cool craft cocktails and big-flavored small plates. Not a bowler? Not a prob. Both the bar and restaurant are accessible separately from the alley. www.fultonalley.com.

600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569. Map 3, D6 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleansthemed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur St. at St. Ann St. Map 3, G5 JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK AND PRESERVE On this 23,000-acre area of protected

MEET SANTA EVERY FRI & SAT IN DECEMBER !

FROM 8-10PM

wetlands, you’ll get to see egrets, cranes, pelicans and alligators in their natural habitat. Wooden walkways allow you to explore deep into the swamp. www.nps.gov/jela. 6588 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, 504.589.3882.

LAFITTE GREENWAYThis 2.6-mile bike and pedes-

trian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park.

The ADA-compliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. www.lafittegreenway.org. . Map 3, F2 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE CENTER Housed

in a former funeral home, this facility breathes new life into New Orleans jazz with seven classrooms providing instruction to local musicians, recordings studios and a state-of-the-art performance space. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 51

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Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 77-79.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................50 Cooking Classes .....................................................................................54 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................54 Golf Courses ..............................................................................................59 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 59 Performing Arts ..................................................................................... 61 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 61 Dance Clubs................................................................................................62 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 63

www.jazzandheritagecenter.org. 1205 N. Rampart St., 504.558.6100. 504.558.6100.. Map 3, G3 NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MARKET Part concert hall/

coffee shop/community center, this multifaceted facility throws the spotlight on both the city’s jazz legends and rising stars. phnojm.org. 1436 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.371.5849. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.588.7608. Map 3, F4 NOLA MOTORSPORTS PARK This state-of-the-art

facility offers car and motorcycle tracks geared for both competitive and recreational use, along with kart rentals and racing. www.nolamotor.com. 11075 Nicolle Blvd., Avondale, 504.302.4875.

OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors, $3 students; ages 6 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 PONTALBA BUILDINGS Erected in 1851, the stately

red-brick townhouses flanking Jackson Square rank as the first apartment complex in the United States.

Inspired by the Palais-Royal and the Place des Vosges in Paris, the twin buildings feature apartments upstairs, retail spaces below and ornate cast-iron galleries. Map 3, G5 PORT OF NEW ORLEANS More than a million pas-

sengers pass through the Crescent City’s cruise terminal each year, making it one of the most popular destinations in the nation to embark/ disembark. www.portno.com. 1350 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.2551. Map 3, D8 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the his52 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2016

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THE GUIDE

toric Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic Church in the nation. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. An on-site gift shop offers rosaries, statues and other keepsakes. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 THE THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE This state-of-

the-art movie theater offers nine separate screens, along with in-seat dining. www.thetheatres.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cooking Classes CRESCENT CITY COOKS! Learn the secrets

of New Orleans-style cuisine from chefs who conduct two-hour classes daily (10 am), and taste the results afterward during lunch; prices vary.

Hands-on classes are also offered, along with a

large selection of spices and culinary utensils. www.crescentcitycooks.com. 201 Chartres St., 504.529.1600. Map 3, F4 LANGLOIS CULINARY CROSSROADS Cookbook

author and radio host Amy Cryex-Sims offers entertaining interactive classes covering both Creole and Cajun fundamentals and contemporary techniques. A full meal is included with each class, along with recipes. Culinary tours are also available. www.langloisnola.com. 1841 N. Rampart St., 504.934.1010. Map 1, E3 NEW ORLEANS COOKING EXPERIENCE Helmed by

local chef Frank Brigtsen, this company, housed in the Southern Food and Beverage Museum, offers instructional classes of various lengths to help you master Creole and Cajun cuisine. www. thenoce.com. 1803 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 504.430.5274. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5

Cruises & Tours A BICYCLE NAMED DESIRE Located at the address

of Stanley and Stella Kowalski’s fictional residence, this bike shop (an offshoot of Confederacy of Cruisers) provides “rentals for the independent traveler.”

Half, full, multi-day and weekly rates are offered. www.abicyclenameddesire.com. 632 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.345.8966. Map 3, J5 ADVENTURES OF JEAN LAFITTE Follow in the

footsteps of pirate Jean Lafitte. Combo tours include an interactive movie, pirate museum, guided nature walk and 45-minute swamp boat tour. Transportation available; prices vary. www. adventuresofjeanlafitte.com. 504.689.7009.

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CAJUN ENCOUNTERS Daily tours for both large

and small groups are offered, along with hotel pickups and drop-offs. Call for times, prices and reservations. Honey Island Swamp Tour–2 hrs. City Cemeteries Tour–2 hrs. Oak Alley & Laura Plantation Tour–4 hrs. www.cajunencounters.com. 55345 Hwy. 90, Slidell, 504.834.1770. Map 2, G1 CELEBRATION DISTILLATION TOURS The mak-

ers of Old New Orleans Rum offer tours of their facility—the oldest premium distillery continually operating in the United States—M-F (noon, 2 and 4 pm) and Sa-Su (2 and 4 pm). Get a taste of the distillation process...and of the company’s awardwinning spirits. Reservations recommended. Grab a cab. $10; 21+ only. www.oldneworleansrum.com.

2815 Frenchmen St., 504.945.9400. Map 1, E2

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CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

group city and plantation tours, in addition to private excursions. Hotel pickups available; rates vary. www.celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SEGWAY TOURS Guided two- and three-hour

Segway tours of the French Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. Private excursions are also available. www.citysegwaytours.com. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. Map 3, E5 CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative dou-

ble-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. Unlimited sightseeing for up to three days, plus three free walking tours. Adults, $44; children (12 and under), $10. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided

bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered, along with customized bike tours. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and 3-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7

CRESCENT CITY BIKE TOURS These three-hour

guided bike rides explore the French Quarter and Tremé neighborhoods, along with Armstrong Park and the Mississippi riverfront. Tours are $49; rentals are $25/day. www.crescentcitybiketours.com. 626 N. Rampart St., 504.322.3455. Map 3, G3 CRESCENT CITY HISTORIC TOURS TThese fun

and informative walking tours, offered Tu-Su, take visitors off the beaten French Quarter path. All tours depart from 834 Rampart St.; meet guides 10 minutes prior to tour time. $25. Private customized excursions are also available. Marigny –10 am. Treme –12:30 pm. Voodoo & Vice –5:30 pm (adults only). www.crescentcityhistorictours.com.

504.321.3839. Map 3, H3 DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce

leads these fun and informative tippling tours through the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn. com. 504.578.8280.

FLIGHT ACADEMY OF NEW ORLEANS Get a

bird’s-eye view of the Crescent City and surrounding bayous with one of these popular aerial tours. Sunset wine-and-cheese excursions and champagne flights for two are featured, along with customized tours. Call for prices and availability. www.877flynola.com. 504.241.9131; 877.FLY.NOLA. FRENCH QUARTER HISTORY & GHOSTBUSTER TOURSThis company offers a variety of experiences, from cemetery explorations to the Ultimate French Quarter History & Ghostbuster Tour, which

departs nightly at 7:30 pm. Group and customized

excursions by request. Call for tour times and availability. www.frenchquarterhistorytours.com. 622 1/2 Pirates Alley, 504.561.8687. Map 3, G4 FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$22. Departs daily at 10 am. True Crime Tour –$20. Departs Th-Su at 6 pm. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 FRENCH QUARTOUR KIDS These hour-and-a-half

guided walks take children on a journey back in time through the streets of the historic Vieux Carré. Tours offered Sa-Su, 10 and 11:30 am, and by appointment. Call for reservations and locations. www.frenchquartourkids.com. 504.975.5355.

FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Informative, two-hour

walking tours of the French Quarter are offered Tu-Su at 10 am and 1:30 pm. $20 adults, $15 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. www.friendsofthecabildo.org. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery.Super City Tour –2 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs.

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Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.Original Cocktail Tour – 2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour-5.5 hrs. For tickets

and further information: www.graylineneworleans. com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am, and M-Sa, 1:15 pm, from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs.

Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 pm

and 7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www.hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS WALKING TOURS Histori-

cally informed walking tours, many led by author and former National Park ranger Robert Florence. $20 adults, $15 seniors/students, $7 children.

French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs 10:30 am and 5 pm daily from Café Beignet (311 Bourbon St.). Garden District/Cemetery Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11 am and 1:45 pm) from the Garden District Book Shop (2727 Prytania St.). Cemetery/Voodoo Tour –2 hrs. Departs M-Sa, 10 am and 1 pm; Su, 10 am; from Café Beignet (334B Royal St.). Haunted French Quarter Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (7:30 pm) from the Bourbon Oh bar inside the Bourbon Orleans Hotel (corner of Bourbon and Orleans streets). For tickets and further information: www. tourneworleans.com. 504.947.2120.

JEAN LAFITTE HISTORICAL TOURS These National

Park Service walking tours focus on the history of the Mississippi River Delta and depart 9:30 am daily (except Christmas and Mardi Gras). Tickets are free, but there is a 25-person limit per tour; pick up tickets after 9 am (one pass issued per person). www.nps.gov/jela. 419 Decatur St., 504.589.2636. Map 3, F5 LAFITTE’S BARATARIA MUSEUM & WETLAND TRACE Charting the 200-year backstory of the

town of Jean Lafitte, this museum explores the fishing village’s history and pirate lore through a variety of multimedia exhibits while also examining the effects of coastal erosion. A nature trail leads visitors through a mile and a half of cypress swamp. $12 adults, $6 children. www.townofjeanlafitte.com.

4917 City Park Dr., 504.689.7009.

LE MONDE CREOLE TOURS Based on the memoirs

of Creole heiress Laura Locoul (1861-1961), these guided walking tours lead visitors through private French Quarter courtyards, the historic New Orleans Pharmacy Museum, the Hermann-Grima House and St. Louis Cemetery #1. Tours are of56 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2016

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fered daily in English at 10:30 am, and in French, M, W, F and Su at 10 am. $24 adults, $16 students/ military. Cash only; reservations required. Departs from 622 Royal St. www.mondecreole.com.

504.568.1801. Map 3, G4 LIVERY TOURSThis company offers a wide variety

of tours geared to just about every area of interest—city, swamp, plantation, cemetery, ghosts, you name it. Top attractions are also featured, along with airport shuttle service. Rates and times vary; call for more information. www.liverytours. com. 620 Decatur St., 504.561.1000. Map 3, G5 NEW ORLEANS CULINARY HISTORY TOURS Ex-

plore some of the city’s oldest restaurants and the evolution of New Orleans cuisine during this history and tasting tour. Departs at 2 pm daily; $46. www.noculinarytours.com. For tickets, call 504.875.6570.

NEW ORLEANS ELECTRIC CARSToo hot to hoof it

on foot? Tool around in one of these cool rentals instead. The easy-to-operate, all-electric vehicles seat up to six passengers. www.neworleanselectriccars.com. 235 Basin St., 504.274.2555. Map 3, F2 NEW ORLEANS FOOD AND FUN TOURS Custom-

ized to your areas of interest, these private walking tours accommodate up to four guests (ask for quotes for additional participants). Tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and CBD/Warehouse District are featured, in addition to a Vieux Carré Bar Crawl and Eat Dat Culinary Tour. Rates vary. www.foodandfuntours.com. 844.504.8687.

NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS Get fit and

informed at the same time. Guided jogs through the French Quarter and Garden District are offered daily; customized tours are also available. Groups meet at the corner of Decatur and Barracks streets. www.neworleansjoggingtours.com. Map 3, I5 NEW ORLEANS LEGENDARY WALKING TOURS

Two-hour tours depart daily from 941 Decatur St.; meet guides 20 to 30 minutes prior to tour time. $25 adults, $15 children. French Quarter & Cemetery Tours –10 am and 1 pm. Ghost Tours –5:30 and 8 pm. www.neworleanslegendarywalkingtours. com. 941 Decatur St., 504.503.0199. Map 3, H5 PEARL RIVER ECOTOURS Tours of the Honey Is-

YOUR EVENT WILL BE CELEBRATED IN HISTORY. H E R M A N N -GR I M A H O US E N E W O R LE A N S ’ H I S T O R I C EVENT S ET T ING .

820 saint louis street | events@hgghh.org hgghh.org

land swamp are offered daily at 10 am and 2:30 pm. $23 adults, $15 children. Transportation from New Orleans hotels is offered for an additional charge.

Reservations required www.pearlriverecotours. com. 866.597.9267.

ROCK ’N’ NOLATOURS These guided, two-hour

walking tours explore the city’s musical heritage, from the roots of jazz to early opera to rock legends. Excursions include: Louis Armstrong’s New Orleans Tour, Roots of Jazz Tour, Roots of Rock Tour and A Locals Only: Custom Live Musical Heritage Tour. Call for times and prices. www. rocknnolatours.com. 713.302.8058.

SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am and Sa-Su at 1 pm from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under.

Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 57

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INDOOR FAMILY CHRISTMAS FESTIVAL

December 16 - 30 15

Days of Family Fun for All Ages Santa & Holiday Characters

Kringle Carousel & Carnival Rides New Orleans ONLY Real Ice Skating Rink New Orleans-Themed Gingerbread Houses Dozens of Decorated Christmas Trees

Inflatables, Crafts and much more!

Purchase tickets at the door or online at

NOLAChristmasFest.com Admission $20* Comthee see tmas Chrisree T

Includes entry, ice skating and skate use, access to all rides and inflatables, and more.

Group rates are available for 10 or more. *Does not include professional photos with Santa, face painting, and special events.

New Orleans Morial Convention Center Hall I

O CHR PEN ISTM EVE AS & DAY !

Convenient Parking Nearby

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am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR Free

guided daily tours, 9 am-4 pm, except major holidays. www.tabasco.com. La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2 VIP CITY TOURS These two-hour excursions offer

a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontchartrain and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily at 9 am, 1 and 4 pm. www.vipcitytours.com.

701 Canal St., 504.329.2489. Map 3, E4 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from 701 Royal Street; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

Golf Courses AUDUBON PARK GOLF COURSE This course

in the middle of the park ensures a beautiful backdrop. The 18 holes (Par 62) are fun and fast. www.auduboninstitute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.212.5290. Map 1, C4 ENGLISH TURN GOLF COURSE This Jack

Nicklaus-designed course is 18 holes and Par 72, with water at each play. Home to a New Orleans PGA stop, English Turn is rated as very challenging. www.englishturn.com. 1 Clubhouse Dr., 504.391.8018. Map 1, E3 STONEBRIDGE GOLF CLUB OF NEW ORLEANS

Located minutes from downtown, this 27-hole Westbank golf course features more than 100 sand traps and water hazards. Suited to all skill levels, the pristine course showcases the area’s waterways and wildlife. www.stonebridgegolfofno.com. 1500 Stonebridge Dr., Gretna, La, 504.394.1300. Map 1, E4 TPC LOUISIANA Spread over 250 acres on the

city’s West bank, just minutes from downtown, this 7,300-yard, Par 72 course is home to the Zurich Classic, and was rated one of the nation’s “Top 5 Best Courses” by Golf Digest. www. tpclouisiana.com. 11001 Lapalco Blvd., Avondale, 504.436.8721. Map 1, B4

Museums & Exhibits ABITA MYSTERY HOUSE This one requires a car,

but is well worth the price of a rental for outsider art fans. Housed in a former filling station in nearby Abita Springs, artist John Preble’s eccentric sendup of “redneck culture” features offbeat oddities fashioned from more than 50,000 found objects. $3 (free 3 and under). Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. www. abitamysteryhouse.com. 22275 Hwy. 36, Abita Springs, 985.892.2624. Map 2, F1 AMERICAN ITALIAN MUSEUM This cultural center

pays tribute to the history and contributions of Italian-Americans in Louisiana and the Southeast through a variety of exhibits. $8 adults, $5 seniors/ students, free ages 11 and under. Open Tu-F, 10 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 59

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am-4 pm. www.americanitalianculturalcenter.com.

537 S. Peters St., 504.522.7294. Map 3, D6 BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades.

Admission $8; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. www. backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 BEAUREGARDKEYES HOUSE This beautifully

restored 1826 villa and garden was the home of Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered hourly M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $9 seniors/students, $4 ages 6-12, under 6 free. www.bkhouse.org. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $8 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also hosts performances. $8; $6 seniors/students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www.cacno.org.

900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 DEGAS HOUSE The home where Edgar Degas lived

during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works. Two-hour tours of the 1852 property, conducted by the artist’s great-grand-niece, are offered daily at 10:15 am and 1:30, and by appointment. $15. Reservations required. www.degashouse.com. 2306 Esplanade Ave., 504.821.5009. Map 1, D2 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www. hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, I4 GEORGE AND LEAH MCKENNA MUSEUM OF AFRICAN AMERICAN ART Housed in an 1860s

Greek Revival mansion, this collection celebrating African-American culture features works by such artists as Henry Ossawa Tanner and Clementine Hunter. $5 adults, $3 seniors/students, $2 age 12 and under. Open Th-Sa, 11 am-4 pm and by appointment. www.themckennamuseum.com 2003 Carondelet St., 504.586.7432. Map 1, D3 GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM Carnival pageantry, 1937-1968: lavish

gowns, costumes, and memorabilia of the late Wells, queen of 22 Mardi Gras balls. Located above Arnaud’s restaurant. Free; open during regular restaurant hours (nightly, 6-10 pm). www. arnauds.com/museum.html. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only

for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 LE MUSÉE DE F.P.C. This museum explores the

history, culture and contributions of New Orleans’ free people of color. Spanning three centuries, exhibits include original manumission documents, 19th-century paintings and an 1864 right-to-vote petition. Open Sa-Su, noon-4:30 pm and by appointment. $10; docent-led tours $15 adults, $10 students/seniors. www.lemuseedefpc.com. 2236 Esplanade Ave., 504.914.5401. Map 1, D3 LONGUE VUE HOUSE & GARDENS Designated

a National Historic Landmark, this 1939 Classical Revival home is modeled after an English country estate, with eight acres of gardens to explore. Guided tours available daily. $10 adults, $9 seniors/military, $5 students/children, 2 and under free. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4:30 pm; Su, 1-5 pm. www.longuevue.com. 7 Bamboo Rd., 504.488.5488. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Children learn

through hands-on exhibits at this award-winning museum. Permanent exhibits include ”Little Port of New Orleans” and “New Orleans: Proud to Call It Home.” Adults/children $8.50. Open M-Sa, 9:30 am-5 pm; Su, noon-5 pm. www.lcm.org. 420 Julia St., 504.586.0725. Map 3, C6 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo, Map 3, G4)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History. 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St., Map 3, G5)– Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St., Map 3, G5)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave., Map 3, I5)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint.

Presbytère (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–Continuing: Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana and Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond. For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4-D film Beyond All Boundaries, while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $23 adults, $20 seniors, $14 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. Beyond All Boundaries: an additional $5; “Final Mission”: an

additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM

Explore this misunderstood religion through the museum’s artifacts and exhibits. Readings are also offered. $5 adults, $4 college students/seniors, $3 children (free under 5). Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. www.voodoomuseum.com. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128. Map 3, H4 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings.

The Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $10 adults, $8 seniors/students, $6 children 7-17, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open daily, 10 am-6 pm; free. www. noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former

apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, 10 am-5 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/students, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM The Newcomb College

division of Tulane University is known worldwide for its Arts and Crafts pottery. Its museum features rare examples from the early 20th century, in addition to traveling exhibits. Free; open Tu-F, 10 am-5 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-4 pm. www.newcombartgallery. tulane.edu. Woldenberg Art Center, Tulane University, 504.865.5328. Map 1, D3 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $6.25 children (under 5 free).

Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. www.ogdenmuseum.org.

925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM Located along scenic

Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ first mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $7 adults, $5 children, free ages 6 and under. www.louisianalandmarks.org. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2 PRESERVATION RESOURCE CENTER The PRC is

an essential stop for lovers of local architecture, and contains a wealth of information on the city’s buildings and neighborhoods. Open M-F, 9 am-5 pm. www.prcno.org. 923 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.7032. Map 3, B7 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10; students/ seniors, $5; children under 12, free. Open Th-M, 11 am-5:30 pm www.southernfood.org. 1507 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3 WILLIAMS RESEARCH CENTER The research arm

of the Historic New Orleans Collection houses

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a sparkling repository of documents as well as rotating exhibits and a knowledgeable, friendly staff. Free. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. www.hnoc.org. 410 Chartres St., 504.598.7171. Map 3, F4

Performing Arts CIVIC THEATRE New Orleans’ oldest theater, dat-

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Across from Harrah’s Casino next to Hilton Hotel 21 47" LG LCD T.V.’s

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ing to 1906, has hosted everything from vaudeville shows to discos. Shuttered during the 1990s, the 1,200-seat venue received a $10 million overhaul in 2013, and now features concerts by top national touring acts. www.civicnola.com. 510 O’Keefe Ave., 504.272.0865. Map 3, C4 JOY THEATERThis 1940s movie palace has been

revamped as a multi-use facility for musical, comedy and theatrical productions, as well as a space for special events. www.thejoytheater.com. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569. Map 1, D2 LE PETIT THÉÂTRE DU VIEUX CARRÉ This historic

space houses one the nation’s longest-running community playhouses. Step into the adjacent Tableau restaurant for pre- and post-theater cocktails. www.lepetittheatre.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.522.2081. Map 3, G4 MAHALIA JACKSON THEATRE FOR THE PERFORM ING ARTS This 2,100 seat theater, located in sce-

nic Armstrong Park, received a multimillion-dollar, post-Katrina overhaul. The state-of-the-art venue is home to performances by the New Orleans Opera and the New Orleans Ballet, as well as national touring acts. www.mahaliajacksontheatre.com. 801 N. Rampart St., 504.525.1052. Map 3, H2 ORPHEUM THEATER Reopened following a floor-

to-ceiling renovation, this jaw-dropping 1,500 seat theater (home of the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra) features two balcony levels, VIP box seating, six bars—some located in the stairwells. www.orpheumnola.com. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4871. Map 3, E3 SAENGER THEATREThis circa-1927 baroque beauty plays host to the popular Broadway Across America series, in addition to major music and comedy acts. www.saengernola.com. 1111 Canal St., 504.287.

0351. Map 3, E3

Cocktails ALTO Get above it all at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop

bar, which offers sweeping views and poolside dining. Open daily, 10 am-9pm. www.acehotel. com/neworleans/alto. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map3, C5 ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 ATTIKI This hookah bar offers an exotic getaway

without ever leaving the French Quarter. Order an arak (a traditional Middle Eastern anise-flavored cocktail), load the hookah and check out the belly dancers. www.attikineworleans.com. 230 Decatur St., 504.587.3756. Map 3, F5 AVENUE PUB The New Orleans go-to for craft

beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. www. theavenuepub.com. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3 BAR TONIQUE This sleek and chic boite brings a

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part Street. Dark woods and candlelight set the mood for top-shelf cocktails, house-made tonics and an extensive selection of wines by the glass. www.bartonique.com. 820 N. Rampart St., 504.324.6045. Map 3, H3 BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it? Old-

school games (Jenga, skeeball, air hockey) are the draw...along with 30-plus beers on tap. Hungry?

Grab a burger or a fried PB&J. barcadianola.com.

601 Tchoupitoulas St, 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6 BARREL PROOF From Japanese Yamazaki to

Kentucky-aged Old Grand-Dad, the top shelf at this hip Lower Garden District spot holds more than 150 brands of whiskey from around the globe. www.barrelproofnola.com. 1201 Magazine St. 504.299.1888 Map 3, A7 BAYOU BEER GARDEN One of the first bona fide

beer gardens in the city, Bayou offers a huge patio with plenty of seating. The beer list is extensive with more than 100 choices on tap and in the bottle or can. www.bayoubeergarden.com. 326 N. Jefferson Davis Pkwy., 504.302.9357. Map 1, D3 BAYOU WINE GARDENThis casual Mid-City spot

offers 32 rotating wines on draft and a huge bottled selection, in addition to small and large plates. More a suds fan? Cross the courtyard bridge to the adjacent Bayou Beer Garden. www.bayouwinegarden.com. 315 N. Rendon St., 504.826.2925. Map 1, D3 BIG EASY DAIQUIRIS A dozen different daiquiris

made with top-shelf liquors, a large selection of beer, Hurricane cocktails and pizza by the slice will draw you in here. www.bigeasydaiquiris. com. 407 Bourbon St. Map 3, F4; 501 Bourbon St. Map 3, F4; 428 Canal St. Map 3, E5; 409 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 617 Decatur St. Map 3, G5; 911 Decatur St. Map 3, H5; 504.586.2070.

THE BULLDOG The patio is the way to go at this

British-themed tavern, where the fountain is fashioned from dozens of old beer taps. Only fitting given the pup-friendly pub’s 50-plus draft beers and additional 100 varieties offered by the bottle. www.draftfreak.com. 3236 Magazine St., 504.891.1516. Map 1, D4; 5135 Canal Blvd., 504.488.4191. Map 1, D2 CAT’S MEOW One glimpse of the frat-house atmo-

sphere in this rowdy karaoke/cocktail emporium, and you’ll either flee or sign up for your own American Idol moment. No cover. www.catskaraoke.com.

701 Bourbon St., 504.523.2788. Map 3, G4 COURT OF TWO SISTERS CARRIAGEWAY BAR Lo-

cated in a 19th-century French Quarter carriageway, this bar features an picturesque courtyard, fireplace and tons of ambiance. www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 COURTYARD BREWERY Beer lovers will fall for

the small batches with big taste at this Lower Garden District micro-micro brewery. A snack with your brew? Check the rotating schedule of food trucks. www.courtyardbrewing.com. 1020 Erato St.. Map 3, A7 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE The Quarter’s only

brewpub. Microbrews , nightly live music, local art and sophisticated cuisine make the Brewhouse a winner. www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, F5 CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed

in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st. The cocktail menu is

also half old fashioned and half modern, making Cure one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. www.curenola.com. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3 EMPIRE BAR Paul Gustings, who Esquire has called

“the crustiest bartender on earth,” serves up classic cocktails at Broussard’s casually elegant in-house bar. www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play

(the author once stayed here), this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. Modeled after an artist’s loft, the sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1452. Map 1, D3 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 NAPOLEON HOUSE Offered to the emperor if

he could escape exile (so the tale goes), this is a legendary French Quarter watering hole. An hour spent enjoying a muffuletta and a Pimm’s Cup in the courtyard is a quintessential N’awlins experience. www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F5 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a mas-

sive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. Check out the many seasonal beers, from the spicy Flambeau Red Ale to the summery 7th Street Wheat. www. nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE A favored tavern of such

bon vivants as Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and Walt Whitman, this historic bar continues to draw absinthe enthusiasts and those thirsty for a taste of authentic New Orleans as it has since 1806. www.oldabsinthehouse.com. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 PATRICK’S BAR VIN Krewe of Cork founder and

all-around grape guy Patrick Van Hoorebeek’s namesake wine bar offers dozens of vintages by the glass and even more by the bottle. Cocktails and small plates, cheeses and charcuterie are also served. www.patricksbarvin.com. 730 Bienville St., 504.581.7300. Map 3, F4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s

club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4

POLO CLUB LOUNGE This elegant spot in the

equally elegant Windsor Court Hotel offers an extensive wine selection and incredible edibles, along with live entertainment Tu-Sa. www.grillroomneworleans.com. 300 Gravier St., 504.523.6000. Map 3, D5 R BAR This unpretentious Faubourg Marigny

watering hole is a favorite among locals and visitors who happen by during the free Friday seafood boils. Drop in on Mondays for a haircut—and a shot. www.royalstreetinn.com. 1431 Royal St., 504.948.7499. Map 3, J4 SAINTS & SINNERS With its sexy decor, naughty

named cocktails and large selection of small plates, actor Channing Tatum’s Bourbon Street bar and restaurant lives up to its promise for “a sinfully good time.” Live DJs on weekends. www. saintsandsinnersnola.com. 627 Bourbon St., 504.528.9307. Map 3, G4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E SECOND LINE BREWING Housed in a repurposed

industrial space, this brewery brings hoppy goodness to the Mid-City neighborhood. Flagship ales, growlers and test brews, as well as a rotating cast of food trucks, can be found in its outdoor beer garden Th-Su. www.secondlinebrewing.com. 433 N Bernadotte St., 504.248.8979. Map 1, D2 THE TCHOUP YARD Beach bar meets beer garden

at this Lower Garden District spot, with local brews and frozen drinks on tap. An ever-changing list of food trucks/pop-ups complete the menu. 405 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.895.6747. Map 1, E4 TIKI TOLTECA A bit of the tropics on the edge of

the French Quarter. Totems and coconut heads grace the bar, which serves up mai tais, zombies and flaming Escorpion Punch W-M nights. www. tikitolteca.com. 301 N. Decatur St. (inside Felipe’s), 504.267.4406. Map 3, F5 W.I.N.O. Wine Institute New Orleans—bet-

ter known by its tongue-and-cheek acronym W.I.N.O.—offers an innovative “enomatic” tasting system that allows you to sample 120 wines from around the globe by the glass, half-glass or taste.

Open M-Th. www.winoschool.com. 610 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.8000. Map 3, D5 WALKON’S Fittingly within walking distance of

the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. Looking for a rowdy atmosphere with selfserve taps in which to watch the game? You’ve found it. www.walk-ons.com. 1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3 WORLD OF BEER Five hundred beers in both

bottles and cans, 40 taps and a full menu of beerfocused fare make this Warehouse District tavern a great game-day destination, or for any fan of international brews. www.worldofbeer.com. 324 Julia Street, 504.299.3599. Map 3, C6

Dance Clubs BOURBON HEAT This massive party palace offers

two floors, a courtyard, patio bar and balcony, along with laser light shows and first-rate DJs.

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www.711bourbonheat.com. 711 Bourbon St., 504.324.4669. Map 3, G4 THE BOURBON PUB & PARADE The city’s largest

gay bar and nightclub. Parade, the second-floor danceteria, features techno, house and classic disco. www.bourbonpub.com. 801 Bourbon St., 504.529.2107. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ LAFITTE IN EXILE Billing itself as America’s

oldest gay bar, Lafitte’s creates a party with high-energy music, hi-def plasma video screens and a great balcony on Bourbon Street. All are welcome. www.lafittes.com. 901 Bourbon St., 504.522.8397. Map 3, H4 OZ This two-level disco has top-notch DJs,

lively female impersonators and a mostly gay and gay-friendly crowd up for wee-hours dancing. www.ozneworleans.com. 800 Bourbon St., 504.593.9491. Map 3, H4

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. Steamy windows face the nightlife bustle of Frenchmen Street, and the benches outside make ideal perches for people-watching. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BALCONY MUSIC CLUB Visitors in search of a

“regular” kind of local hangout need look no further than this low-key French Quarter venue, which boasts two bars, great draft beer, pool, darts and nightly live music. 1331 Decatur St., 504.599.7770. Map 3, I5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue

is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 CAFÉ NEGRIL This intimate club features crowd-

www.circlebarnola.com. 1032 St. Charles Ave., 504.588.2616. Map 3, B6 COLUMNS BAR This stately Victorian on St. Charles

Avenue is a choice hangout for Uptowners. Watch the streetcar roll past while sipping a cocktail on the front porch, or relax in the 19th-century splendor of the indoor bar. Live music nightly. www.thecolumns.com. 3811 St. Charles Ave., 504.899.9308. Map 1, D4 D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip

features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape

inside the Ritz-Carlton offering a large selection of classic New Orleans cocktails, along with entertainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 THE FAMOUS DOOR Bourbon Street’s oldest live

music club is also famed for its powerful drinks and fun people-watching. 339 Bourbon St., 504.598.4334. Map 3, F4 FRITZEL’S EUROPEAN JAZZ PUB A German jazz

club? Only in New Orleans. Traditional jazz by local musicians as well as visiting European bands is featured nightly. www.fritzelsjazz.net. 733 Bourbon St., 504.586.4800. Map 3, H4 GASA GASA Live music, local art exhibitions, film

screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky Uptown music venue. A rotating cast of food trucks are available and restaurants are within walking distance. www.gasagasa.com. 4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567. Map 1, D3 HIHO LOUNGE This legendary dive got a post-

Katrina makeover, complete with an expanded stage and new sound system. But thankfully the vibe remains as funky and friendly as ever.

Entertainment runs the gamut, from bluegrass to burlesque. www.hiholounge.net. 2239 St. Claude Ave., 504.945.4446. Map 3, K4

pleasing live acts, ranging from jazz and blues to rock and reggae (Fridays), and the island-themed atmosphere sets a mellow vibe. While the dance floor fills up, the open kitchen turns out tacos, burritos and quesadillas. 606 Frenchmen St., 504.944.4744. Map 3, J5

HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone,

club features low cover charges and low attitude.

Acts include both local favorites and big names; the music ranges from punk to straight-ahead rock. www.thehowlinwolf.com. 907 S. Peters St., 504.522.9653. Map 3, C7

this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. The recently revamped venue now features live music Tu-Sa. www.hotelmonteleone. com. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4 CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the

Mid-City music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. www.chickiewahwah. com. 2828 Canal St., 504.304.4714. Map 1, D3 CHRIS OWENS’ CLUB The durable and energetic

Miss Owens’ one-woman, salsa-and-Vegas-flavored shows (W-Sa, 9 and 10:30 pm) are the last of their ilk in the Quarter, if not the world. Don’t be surprised if Chris leads a conga line onto Bourbon Street. 500 Bourbon St., 504.523.4600. Map 3, F4 CIRCLE BAR This tiny Lee Circle bar draws a loyal

crowd of neighborhood night crawlers, habitual hipsters and tourists looking for a slice of local life.

Great jukebox; live music starts around 10 pm.

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 HOWLIN’ WOLF This locally owned and operated

LE BON TEMPS ROULÉ A great Uptown hangout,

featuring imported beers and casual dining (free oysters on Fridays, in season). Live music is performed on the stage they call the “House of Dues.”

4801 Magazine St., 504.897.3448. Map 1, D4 LITTLE GEM SALOON This long-neglected jazz

landmark has received a new lease on life, and is once again a player on the city’s live-music scene.

The recently renovated supper club offers two stages and performances most nights of the week. www.littlegemsaloon.com. 445 S. Rampart St., 504.267.4863. Map 3, C3 MAISON This Frenchmen Street club offers a

full-service restaurant, two floors, three bars, an interior wraparound balcony and nightly live entertainment, ranging from jazz to R&B to hip-hop. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 63

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www.maisonfrenchmen.com. 508 Frenchmen St., 504.371.5543. Map 3, J5 MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 ONE EYED JACKS Rockabilly, retro, rock, neo-

a

burlesque: this French Quarter swank-dive serves it all up in a vintage bordello atmosphere. www.oneeyedjacks.net. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4

b

PALM COURT JAZZ CAFÉ This excellent venue

for traditional live jazz is a favorite of locals in the know and well-informed visitors. Creole dining is also featured. www.palmcourtjazzcafe.com. 1204 Decatur St., 504.525.0200. Map 3, I5

• Open 6 Days • Closed Tuesdays • Dinner served 5pm-till • Live Music

PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 REPUBLIC NEW ORLEANS One of downtown’s

hottest night spots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. www.republicnola.com. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6

536 Frenchmen 504.252.4801 3musesnola.com

ROCK ‘N’ BOWL A legendary local favorite now in

c

a new, larger location, Rock ’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts. Check out swing night on Wednesdays.

Highly recommended, and worth the cab ride. www.rockandbowl.com. 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.1700. Map 1, D3 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay

of Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Ellis Marsalis and Charmaine Neville are regulars. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4

LIVE LOCAL MUSIC

FRENCH QUARTER

7 NIGHTS A WEEK

dbaneworleans.com

618 FRENCHMEN ST.

THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5

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era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE KEYSThis hip venue in the über-hip Ace

Hotel mixes thins up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing New Orleans history and culture. www.threekeysnola.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 1, D3 THREE MUSES This hip venue offers two locations

and a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; 7537 Maple St., 504.510.2749. Map 1, D4 TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s features an

eclectic, always-entertaining lineup. Sunday afternoons feature a fais do-do with live Cajun music. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 65

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Navigate Making the Connection

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

NEW ORLEANS was recently named No. 2 among the “Best Cities in North America”—and No. 7 in the world—by readers of Travel + Leisure magazine.

©SHAWN FINK

It’s one of New Orleans’ biggest attractions, and—at $1.25 a ride—one of its cheapest. The Crescent City’s signature streetcars (p. 67) are a must-do for visitors looking to get off the beaten French Quarter path and explore other parts of the city. In operation since 1835, the St. Charles line offers an ideal vantage for viewing Uptown’s ornate homes and giant oaks. The Canal line travels the street’s full length, with an offshoot to scenic City Park, while the Riverfront line affords river views and access to the lower Quarter. The Loyola line makes getting to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome super-easy, and connects with the new Rampart/St. Claude line (shown), which covers the upper Quarter corridor from Canal Street to Elysian Fields. All aboard!

66 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I D E C E M B E R 2016

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N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 77-79.

Index General Information........................................................................... 66 Nearby Destinations............................................................................67 Cajun Country...........................................................................................67 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 67 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 67 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................67 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................67 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 67 Transportation ....................................................................................... 66

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters and a growing number of popular eateries. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5 CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military

outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residental shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE ARTS DISTRICT This “Southern

SoHo” adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history

and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

LAFOURCHE PARISH Founded in 1807, Lafourche

was one of the Louisiana’s original parishes when it became a state in 1812. Situated along Bayou Lafourche, which extends to the Gulf of Mexico, the area is rich in fish and wildlife, making it an ideal location for early Acadian settlers. The Jean Lafitte National Park Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center in Thibodaux, the parish seat, offers insight into Cajun life, while swamp tours provide an upclose look local flora and fauna. Thibodaux is also home to the Laurel Village Sugar Plantation and Museum (the largest surviving 19th–century sugar plantation in the U.S.) and Nicholls State University (aka “Harvard on the Bayou”). www.visitlafourche. com. 985.537.5800.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time, cher. www. houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 67

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Holidays of Yore Christmas past is alive and present along historic River Road during December, with plantations decked to the nines in seasonal celebration. Decorated with fresh fruit and live greenery, Oak Alley kicks things off Dec. 3 with its 41st annual Christmas Bonfire Party, which includes live entertainment, a lavish Creole buffet and a brilliant blaze along the levee. Destrehan joins in Dec. 11 with its Candy Cane Celebration.

Geared to tiny tots, the daytime merriment features choral performances, storytelling and a variety of reindeer games. At 4:30 pm the party moves to Houmas House (shown), where the Baton Rouge Symphony performs Christmas classics on the plantation’s pristine grounds, accompanied by special holiday-themed menus at its elegant, on-site restaurants, Latil’s Landing and the Carriage House.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $18 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African fold Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $20 adults, $7.50 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $4.50 ages 6-12. Group rates availby Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are able. www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, offered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the CIvil War; today only a handful remain.

©HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATIONS AND GARDENS

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

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P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 74 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 74 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 75 Dining........................................................................................................... 76

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $18 adults, $16 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 75

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THE GUIDE

main house is composed of a series of connected buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The

restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are of- fered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldson- ville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

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THE GUIDE | MAPS

MAP 1 NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH A

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THE GUIDE

MAP 3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER A

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 3 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 t S RH Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 in e OC a v A eOmni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 Sp v h A OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 c lin Ro FrankPL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 St PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 7 Street Direction SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 French Quarter WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 E4 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 Jazzy Passes WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

Luxury Seekers

Family Travelers

Romantics

Its tucked-away location provides the first whiff of evidence that (1) Avery Fine Perfumery isn’t your average scents shop. This unique “smell gallery” elevates fragrance to an art form via rare, exclusive lines for both sexes.

Furnished in warm woods and cool Venetian plaster, the (2) Waldorf Astoria Spa offers a wide range of body services and lavish indulgences. Double your pleasure with a couples massage, which includes a bottle of bubbly and fleur de lis chocolates. Ah, the sweet life.

One state-of-the-art kitchen, two nationally acclaimed chefs: That’s the recipe for success at (3) Restaurant R’evolution. Take the “Caviar Staircase” before diving into “Death

by Gumbo." After dessert (“White Chocolate Bread Pudding Crème Brûlée”), a jewelry box arrives at your table, filled with bonus bites.

Bourbon Street is known worldwide as an adult playground. But what is there for kids to do in New Orleans? Plenty. The biggerthan-life Carnival creations at (1) Mardi Gras World are sure to get young imaginations moving. Here Paul Bunyan rubs shoulders with Jack and the Bean Stalk, while Elvis cavorts with giant mermaids. With more than 50,000 creepy crawlers, (2) the Audubon Butterfly Garden & Insectarium is designed to broaden small minds on the important role bugs play in daily life. Junior entomologists craving something unique will get their fill in the “Bug Appetite” area. (3) French QuarTour Kids’ guided walks lead children on a timetravel journey back to the 1800s. Outfitted in vintage undergarments, former grade-school teacher Jill Dresser brings local history to life.

“I don’t want you to sell food,” restaurateur Joe Fein told staff when he purchased (1) the Court of Two Sisters in 1963. “I want you to sell romance!” That tradition continues with a jazz brunch served daily in the picturesque courtyard, where it’s said more proposals have been made than anywhere else in the U.S. If the world’s largest collection of live oak trees doesn’t make you swoon (2) City Park’s Enrique Alvèrez Sculpture Garden will, along with the circa-1907 Peristyle, a popular wedding venue. The Ritz-Carlton’s (3) Davenport Lounge is home to jazz trumpeter Jeremy Davenport, who People magazine named among the nation's "Top 50 Bachelors." The elegant nightspot woos lovers with its dim lighting, comfy couches and sexy small plates made for sharing.

(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©AVERY FINE PERFUMERY; ©ROOSEVELT HOTEL; ©RESTAURANT R'EVOLUTION; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©MARDI GRAS WORLD, ©JAYME NECAISE/AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©SHAWN FINK; ©RITZ-CARLTON HOTEL

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS.

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HOUMAS HOUSE Plantation and Gardens This holiday season is the perfect time to visit Houmas House Plantation and Gardens. Take a spectacular tour of the original plantation house built in the 1770s, decorated with Christmas cheer. Stroll through 16 acres of breathtaking gardens. Find the perfect presents for loved ones at the gift shop and dine at Houmas House’s exquisite restaurants.

You can also stay overnight in a luxurious room at The Inn at Houmas House. Plan your memorable trip today!

Houmas House Plantation and Gardens 40136 Hwy 942 • Darrow, LA 70725 • 225-473-9380 • www.HoumasHouse.com

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