Where New Orleans June 2017

JUNE 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

New Orleans

®

wheretraveler.com

ROOFTOP DINING MUSEUM MUST-SEES ESSENCE FEST THE BRUNCH BEAT

CRESCENT CITY COOL A summer hot list, from family fun to happening happy hours

FOLLOW IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS It should have been impossible. Crossing the world’s widest ocean to answer an attack made by a powerful adversary.

Through hostile terrain and untold suffering, millions of Americans pushed past impossible to win the Pacific War. Follow in their footsteps on The Road to Tokyo, a new immersive experience at The National WWII Museum.

#1 Attraction in New Orleans #4 Museum in the United States

504.528.1944 | NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG

HIGHEST RATED

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Open 5 p.m. Daily • 322 Magazine Street • 504.522.7902 • chophousenola.com

ART & EY&S

3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494

artandeyesnola.com

It’s SUMMER.....

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INDY EYEWEAR LIKE NO WHERE ELSE.

New Orleans CONTENTS

06.17

SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

the plan

20

9 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Rhoda Martinez Concierge at the Marriott Convention Center.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood. Plus let's do brunch.

10 Editor's Itinerary

29

A 90-minute exploration of Lake Pontchartrain to make the most of your time in the city.

SHOPPING

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Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus summery seersucker and a little kitchen magic.

12 Hot Dates Essence Festival The 23rd annual "party with a purpose," ABBA alert, genderbent opera and 22 other entertainment ideas to entertain.

the guide

37

XX

14

GALLERIES & ANTIQUES

A citywide gallery crawl.

Plus fleshing out the French Quarter.

42

ENTERTAINMENT

Tours, attractions, museums, bars and music clubs.

Plus family focused cruises and cocktail collectibles.

50 XX

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus a Cajun country road trip.

64 Where Inside: New Orleans Your Way Curated Crescent City itineraries for families, outdoor enthusiasts and music lovers.

ON THE COVER A Holywater cocktail—spiced rum, almond syrup, citrus juice, cognac, bitters and green Chartreuse—from Seaworthy. ©RUSH JAGOE/SEAWORTHY

17

where now 14 Out + About

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road. Plus picture-perfect plantation weddings.

Five cool pools and four fun festivals.

A New Orleans summer reading list.

What's new on museum walls.

18 Food + Drink 6 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

PLANTATION COUNTRY

16 On the Go

17 Art + Culture

READ US ON MAGZTER

58 XX

Hot in the city: 24 summertime must-dos.

16 Retail Therapy CONNECT WITH US

NAVIGATE

Hit the roof, healthy eats and hand pies a la mode.

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 61-63

(LEFT) ©KEVIN THOMAS GARCIA; (CENTER, TOP) ©AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; (CENTER, BOTTOM) ©NOMA

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Rhoda Martinez Concierge at Marriott Convention Center

Q: What’s the coolest thing about summer in New Orleans?

A: All of the fun festivals. In June we have the French Market Creole Tomato Festival, the Cajun-Zydeco Festival and the Oyster Fest (p. 16), which is a favorite.

Q: Give three suggestions for beating the heat.

A: Wear light, cool clothes, drink plenty of water and find a shady spot where you can listen to some music.

Q: Where would you guide guests in search of a hot new restaurant?

A: We have so many. One of the hottest is Restaurant Rebirth (p. 22). I’m a gumbo snob, and the gumbo chef Ricky Cheramie makes is just wonderful. He’s a Cajun boy from down the bayou, and his gumbo takes you away to a little south Louisiana town, with everybody out under the oak trees at long wooden tables with linen cloths having a wonderful family time.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FOUNDATION

Q: Snoballs or ice cream?

A: Snoballs. I send people Uptown to Plum Street Snoballs (1300 Burdette St., 504.866.7996). I’ve been going there since my kids were little.

Q: Essence Fest kicks off at month’s end.

Where would you send visitors to experience the true essence of New Orleans?

A: Most people would say the French Quarter, but for me it’s Frenchmen Street.

That is the essence of New Orleans. It’s laidback and has a little bit of everything, from food to music.

Cajun-Zydeco Fest

9

EDITOR’S ITINERARY DOUG BRANTLEY NEWS TO TRAVEL BY

The Essential New Orleans Many visitors never leave the French Quarter, and that’s a shame. New Orleans offers all kinds of cool areas to explore, from the Garden District to the lakefront. Cross the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway, the world’s longest bridge over water, and you’re on the Northshore (p. 51). Summer’s here; get out and get going.

90 MINUTES ON

Lake Pontchartrain

FREE LIFETIME ALTERATIONS • YEAR ROUND SERVICE

Clocking in at 630 square miles, massive Lake Pontchartrain (p. 61) isn’t really a lake at all but a brackish estuary connected to the Gulf of Mexico. For generations the lake has served as a popular retreat for families as well as fishing and boating fans. Along with numerous green space and recreational areas, the lakeshore is home to the nation’s second-oldest yacht club, the art deco Lakefront Airport (where Amelia Earhart stopped en route to her final flight) and seafood-centric restaurants overlooking the Orleans Marina. The New Canal Lighthouse offers tours, as does the National WWII Museum aboard its recently renovated PT-305 boat.

Lakeshore Landing, a new $12-million entertainment complex, is currently in the works.

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

HOME OF THE $169 TUXEDO SET! Why Rent? OWN IT!

At Tuxedos To Geaux, we don’t believe in rentals.

Why hassle with returning your tuxedo the morning after?

Free ery Delivur to yo hotel room

(504) 455-5393 • 3400 16TH STREET, METAIRIE, LA 70002 • NEXT TO IMPASTATO’S RESTAURANT 10 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

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WHERE CALENDAR JUNE

For more information: wheretraveler.com

Search the full New Orleans calendar at wheretraveler.com

TOP STOPS 18 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining.

HOT

CHAMPIONS SQUARE June 8: Muse with Thirty Seconds to Mars; June 13: Third Eye Blind. 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

DATES

CHICKIE WAH WAH June 10: The Bluerunners; June 29: John “Papa” Gros Band. 2828 Canal St., 844.244.2543 JOY THEATER June 5: The Bacon Brothers; June 11: Tour de Fat featuring Corey Harper. 1200 Canal St., 800.745.3000

JUNE 29-JULY 2:

Essence Festival

The annual “party with a purpose” pulls into town early this year, bringing with it four jampacked days of seminars, concerts, pre-parties and afterparties. During the day the place to be is the Morial Convention Center, where speakers, from congresswoman Maxine Waters to singer Cissy Houston, take part in free discussions, ranging from politics to beauty. At night it’s all about the music at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. Friday brings Diana Ross and John Legend, Saturday is the fest’s firstever ladies night (Mary J. Blige, Chaka Kahn, Jill Scott) and Sunday spotlights local standouts such as Solange, Mystikal and Troy “Trombone Shorty” Andrews. Party on!

"Mamma Mia!"

6

Great Things Not to Be Missed

1 JAZZ IN THE PARK > JUNE 1 The free concert series closes out with performances by Grammy winner Jon Cleary and the Absolute Monster Gentlemen and Robin Barnes beginning at 5 pm at Armstrong Park.

N. Rampart and St. Ann streets; pufap.org

4 MAMMA MIA! > JUNE 611 ABBA addicts get their fix with this traveling production of the Broadway smash, which has played to more than 54 million fans in 40-plus countries. Saenger Theatre, 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

AS ONE > JUNE 24 The New Orleans Opera mounts this critically acclaimed chamber piece, in which a baritone and a mezzo-soprano play the sole main character … a transgender woman. Marigny Opera House, 725 St. Ferdinand St., 504.529.3000

WWE SMACKDOWN LIVE > JUNE 13 Ready to rumble? World Wrestling Entertainment superstars duke it out at the Smoothie King Center. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

2

WWE Smackdown

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

drive-in movie. Screenings start at 8 pm; check aubudoninstitute.org for lineup. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629

3 DINNER & A ZOOVIE > JUNE 2, 16 & 30 Gather the kids, grab a blanket and head to the Audubon Zoo for a fun twist on the

12 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

5

6 FESTIGALS > JUNE 2224 Where contributors Lorin Gaudin and Nora McGunnigle join Colorado Rockies team owner Linda Alvarado and dozens of other speakers for this annual women’s leadership conference at the JW Marriott. 614 Canal St.; festigals.org

LE PETIT THÉÂTRE June 9-25: “It’s Only a Play.” 616 St. Peter St., 504.522.2081 SAENGER THEATRE June 13: Travis Walls’ Shaping Sound; June 27: Boston. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER June 9: Journey with Asia. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000 THE SPOTTED CAT June 3: Panorama Jazz Band; June 6: Smokin’ Time Jazz Club; June 14: Shotgun Jazz Band; June 17: Meschiya Lake; June 23: Cottonmouth Kings. 623 Frenchmen St. THE STAGE DOOR CANTEEN June 1-3, 15-17 & 2224: “Ain’t Misbehavin’”; June 7, 14, 21 & 28: The Vic-Tones; June 12: Victory Belles. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943

(TOP) ©THE VENETIAN; (CENTER) ©KEVIN THOMAS GARCIA; (BOTTOM) ©WORLD WRESTLING ENTERTAINMENT

Diana Ross

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where now New Orleans

The city’s top events, attractions, entertainment, dining and more

OUT+ABOUT

Hot and Cool What’s new, now and not to be missed in New Orleans this summer

Broussard’s 14 W H E R E C I T Y N A M E I M O N T H Y E A R

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

St. John’s Eve

Cool Scenes EFFERVESCENCE The bubbly crowd at this chic Champagne bar gets even more spirited as the evening progresses.

1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT) ©ART & EYES; (BOTTOM) ©RUSH JAGOE/SEAWORTHY

MUSIC BOX VILLAGE Make your own kind of music at this whimsical wonderland, where ramshackle huts double as instruments. 4557 N. Rampart St.; musicboxvillage.com

Cool Quaffs BREWS CRUISE NEW ORLEANS How best to navigate the city’s burgeoning beer scene? By letting someone else do the driving.

This group provides tours of local breweries with multiple samples at each stop. brewscruise.com PISCO BAR Pisco is the pour of choice at this Catahoula Hotel hot spot. A taste for tiki? Head to the rooftop. 914 Union St., 504.603.2442

ST. JOHN’S EVE It’s not every day you get to witness a real-deal voodoo ritual.

Mark the calendar for June 23, when this annual headwashing ceremony takes place along Bayou St. John. Moss St. and Harding Dr.; islandofsalvationbotanica.com

WINDSOR COURT HOTEL Channel your inner Audrey Hepburn while lounging around the lobby bar, sipping “Breakfast at Tiffany”-inspired cocktails like “My Huckleberry Friend.” 300 Gravier St., 504.523.6000

Hot Games

Hot Plates

BAYOU OAKS SOUTH COURSE City Park’s new 205-acre golf course features 46 bunkers, 300 oak trees and water hazards at nearly every hole. 1051 Filmore Ave., 504.483.9410

KILLER PO’BOYS The name says it all. The humble po’ boy gets gussied up with rumglazed pork belly, smoked salmon and chicken confit. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731

DAVE & BUSTER’S The Texas-based entertainment emporium has finally landed in Louisiana, bringing with it 40,000 square feet of fun. 1200 Poydras St., 504.226.3300

SEAWORTHY Oysters—from the Gulf, East and West coasts—are the big love here.

But burger fans will fall just as hard for the brisket/chuck version with roasted ham and fontal cheese.

630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071

NEW ORLEANS BOULDER LOUNGE Soon to open a second location, this colorful indoor climbing facility is taking Crescent City fitness to new heights. 1746 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.510.2990

TURKEY AND THE WOLF A sandwich shop nominated for a James Beard Award? Yep, it’s that good and deserving. Try the fried bologna topped with chips. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428

Cool for Kids

Cool Shades

COOL ZOO At this animal-themed splash park live elephants look on as you tube around Gator Run, a 750-ft. lazy river ride. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629

ART & EYES This shop’s eye-catching eyewear is sourced from artisans and independent brands around the globe.

3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494

THE FRENCH LIBRARY School may be out, but there’s always time to learn something new … like another language. 3811 Magazine St., 504.267.3707 HANSEN’S SNOBLITZ Shaved ice soaked in flavored syrup; it doesn’t get much simpler or more summery. 4801 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.891.9788

Hot Art

Art & Eyes

FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Night owl Relle has gained a strong national following with his haunting images of nocturnal New Orleans. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601 RED TRUCK GALLERY Circus sideshow meets outsider art at this edgy, oddball gallery, where the works on the walls are both weird and wonderful. 938 Royal St., 505.231.6760 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE STUDIO Oversize Champagne bottles, ottomans filled with shredded cash, bedazzled Abe Lincolns: The wacky works here are as colorful as their creator. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951

KREWE DU OPTIC Local designer Stirling Barrett’s fab frames are a hit in Hollywood, spotted on everyone from Kendall Jenner to Gigi Hadid. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2945 VINTAGE 329 Retro designer sunglasses—Chanel, Dior, Gautier, Ginet, Gucci, Versace—never go out of style. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262

Hot Happy Hours BROUSSARD’S No, you’re not hallucinating: the daily L’Heure Verte service features $5-$7 absinthes from 5 to 7 pm. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez helps get the party started with $2 tacos and half-off house margaritas, beer, wine and mixed drinks, weekdays from 3 to 6 pm. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615

Seaworthy

PALACE CAFÉ Duck into the upstairs Duck Bar, Mon.-Fri. from 4 to 7 pm, for halfpriced small plates (fried duck wings, duck confit poutine), tap wine and draft beer. 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661 15

WHERE NOW New

Orleans RETAIL THERAPY

ON THE GO

BUY-THE-BOOK CLUB A NOLA summer reading list

Crescent City Snow Where contributor Megan Braden-Perry scoured more than 50 vendors around the city to compile “The Ultimate Guide to New Orleans Snowball Stands.” From classics, such as Hansen’s Sno-Blitz and SnoWizard (order the Melipone Mexican vanilla) to offbeat locales like L&G Snowballs & Oysters, this way-cool handbook is a summer essential. (UL Press)

GO DEEP

So there’s no pool at your hotel; no need to get all hot and bothered. The Country Club (p. 28) provides daily public access ($10 Mon.-Wed.; $15 Thur.-Sun.), along with poolside dining. Spend $20 on food or drinks at the Ace Hotel‘s (p. 63) rooftop restaurant and wade on in; $30 secures a place poolside Sundays at the W French Quarter (p. 63) and goes toward your food/beverage tab. At Le Meridien (p. 63) you can suit up and sip a complimentary cocktail for just $15 (Sat.-Sun.) or splurge on a cabana ($350). Splashy cabana rentals ($175-$350) are also offered daily at the Roosevelt Hotel (p. 63), complete with an attendant, stocked cooler and fruit plate.

Fests Forward That slurping sound rising from the riverfront June 3-4? That’s participants in the New Orleans Oyster Festival’s annual eating competition at Woldenberg Park (p. 45), where 20-plus restaurants serve up bivalve-based dishes while live bands perform. More in a mater mood? Load up June 10-11 during the French Market Creole Tomato Festival (p. 44). Tomato vendors, food booths, cooking demos, multiple music stages; did we mention the Bloody Mary Market? Burlesque, comedy, variety arts, sideshow and circus acts—step right up, folks, and check out the Snake Oil Festival at the Howlin’ Wolf (p. 48), where performers from across the nation fly their freak flags June 15-16. Cajun country comes to town June 24-25 with a number of the region’s top music acts performing for free during the Louisiana Cajun-Zydeco Festival at Armstrong Park (p. 42). Rubboards, accordions, two-step dancing, Cajun cuisine; that’s Lousiana Oyster Festival how you pass a good time!

16 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

Flight Risk: Memoirs of a New Orleans Bad Boy This compilation of essays by fifth-generation New Orleanian James Nolan retraces his life journey—from escaping a mental hospital at age 19 to prison in Guatemala, teaching in China, “free love” San Francisco and beyond—back to the French Quarter, where he resides today. Along the way the awardwinning author examines race, gentrification, gumbo and more. (University Press of Mississippi) Snippets of New Orleans Covington, La., native Emma Fick spent a year in Budapest chronicling the country in her signature sketchbook style then returned home to capture Crescent City culture. And capture it she does in 248 pages and all of its colorful, quirky glory. Off-kilter architecture, voodoo queens, costume closets, roadside shrimp stands, “the 7 people you see at Mardi Gras”; Fick’s illustrated travel journal perfectly frames the Big Easy big picture. (UL Press)

(TOP) ©W FRENCH QUARTER; (BOTTOM) ©LOUISIANA OYSTER FESTIVAL

W French Quarter

Five Lines, No Waiting Jazz pianist and composer Tom McDermott penned these “personal nursery rhymes” that touch on everything from sports and hamsters to aging and alienation, and drew their accompanying illustrations. At once witty and poignant, McDermott’s quick-hit limericks make the perfect beach read.

(Sagging Meniscus Press)

w w w.wheretraveler.c o m

(LEFT) ©NOMA; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION; ©NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM; ©NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM; ©OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

“Giants of Jazz”

“State of Deception”

Caption 7 pt, Myriad Pro Semi-

“Jim Steg: New Works”

ART+CULTURE

Must-See Exhibits Looking for a cool way to cool off? Pay a visit to one of the city’s many museums.

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION Giants of Jazz: Art Posters and Lithographs by Waldemar Świerzy salutes AfricanAmerican music pioneers, while Storyville: Madams and Music revisits the city’s fabled red-light district, which helped establish New Orleans as a destination for debauchery and a hotbed of jazz. Also on exhibit: A Most Significant Gift: The Laura Simon Nelson Collection. 533 Royal St.; 410 Chartres St.; 504.523.4662 NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM Nazi propaganda posters are examined in State of Deception, a traveling exhibition from the United States Holo-

caust Memorial Museum that continues through June 18.

945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART Japanese Painting: Inner Journeys explores similarities between early Asian works and the landscapes of local artist Regina Scully; Jim Steg: New Works celebrates the late great Crescent City printmaker.

Also on view: Recent Acquisitions in Contemporary and Modern Art. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM Marking the 100th anniversary of Puerto Ricans’ U.S. citizenship, Beyond the Canvas

“Beyond the Canvas”

brings together five of the island’s most acclaimed contemporary artists, who oppose the conventional concept that a canvas must be flat. Tulane University, 55 Newcomb Pl., 504.865.5328 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The impact of color film on regional photography is the focus of The Colourful South: William Christenberry, Birney Imes, William Greiner, William Ferris and Alec Soth, opening June 10, while Troubled Waters puts the spotlight on Mississippi Delta photographer William Eggleston. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650

Myriad Pro Semi-bold “The Colourful South” Semi-extended Caption.

17

WHERE NOW New

Orleans Hot Dish

FOOD+DRINK

Swimsuit-conscious cuisine

Up On the Roof Forget staying grounded; what’s happening in food and drinks is up on the roof. The views are Instagramable, the dining is divine and at this time of year the weather is perfect for lovely days and sultry evenings under bright blue skies that fade to dark blue-black dappled with city lights.

POKE LOA At long last poke (Hawaiian street food of rice, fish and veg) has found its way to the NOLA dining scene. This bright spot on retail-packed Magazine Street offers build-your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens, rice, locally sourced veggies and an array of garnishes (edamame, fish roe, etc.). Grab a fizzy kombucha from the cold case and dive in … then get back to shopping. 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993 RAW REPUBLIC At this holistic hot spot organic juices and smoothies are joined by a full menu and a refrigerator case filled with organic, raw vegan meals. Try the kelp-noodle truffle mac and cheese, vegan curry “chicken” salad or the surprising and divine “taco” salad with greens, pico de gallo and

Poke Loa

finely chopped walnuts that sub for ground beef. There are no wrongs here; every delicious dish is thoughtful to health and spirit.

4528 Magazine St., 504.324.8234 THE DAILY BEET At this industrial-chic spot for light, healthy eats, fresh-pressed juices and local kombucha fill a cold case. Tuck into a satisfying “Orbit” bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and quickpickled vegetables tumbled in a sesame-ginger dressing. Or take knife and fork to toasted semolina bread topped with avocado, cherry tomatoes, sea salt, chili flakes and a touch of olive oil. 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413 —LG

Hot Tin

deck, all with a pretty view best describes Alto (p. 46) at the Ace Hotel. As summer approaches the food offerings trend lighter, and include grilled shrimp with a green garlic vinaigrette, avocado, cucumber and radish. Obvious poolside bites like burgers, hotdogs and wings sit alongside Gulf fish tacos and a bright, herbaceous “Lemongrass Pie.” The Catahoula Hotel (914 Union St., 504.603.2442) has a super-cool rooftop terrace, where chilling out with cocktails and eating contemporary Peruvian-inspired snacks is the thing. Causas (chilled whipped potatoes stacked with shiitake mushrooms) and salchipapas (fries with wild boar sausage) are listed, along with salads, hefty sandwiches and raw seafood.

There’s also a Peruvian café, a coffeeshop and the Pisco Bar, where the pisco sours are frothy, tart and divine. —Lorin Gaudin

18 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

LAST BITE Turkey and the Wolf (p. 27) has garnered a lot of attention for its retooled childhood-favorite sandwiches, mountainous salads, “inauthenticos” tacos (filled with hogshead cheese) and killer cocktails. To round out food that walks a nostalgic culinary path, there is vanilla soft-serve ice cream. A big, creamy swirl is served in a bowl, alongside locally made fruit- or pudding-filled hand pies that are first deep fried then rolled heavily in sugar.

Irreverent? Yes, and ridiculously good.

It’s the kind of decadence that defines dessert. Speaking of irreverent, check out Turkey and the Wolf’s popular Instagram feed, but be warned, it’s not kidfriendly … though the restaurant and

Caption

food certainly is. —LG

(LEFT) ©PONTCHARTRAIN HOTEL; (RIGHT) ©POKE LOA; (BOTTOM) ©TURKEY AND THE WOLF

Atop the Pontchartrain Hotel is Hot Tin (p. 47), a rooftop bar with a name that alludes to playwright Tennessee Williams, who once resided at the hotel.

The stunning 270-degree view makes a great backdrop for cocktailing, and the interior design has notable (and naughty) flourishes to discover while sipping bourbon, a bit of bubbly or a frivolous and fantastic “Pineapple Upside-Down Daiq.”

The Troubadour Hotel (1111 Gravier St., 504.518.5800) is home to Monkey Board, a rooftop hangout with modern, street-graphics style. There’s a full bar and food truck-style eats.

Order a gin-and-lime “Alpine Slush” to slurp, along with a “Big Ass Pretzel” and crunchy fried chicken sandwich. At brunch add a slow-cooked egg to the “Mojo Pork” then seal the deal with a fat slice of confetti cake.

A dipping pool, full bar and

the guide Dining June Rise and Dine New Orleans has been “doing brunch” since the 1880s, when Madame Begue’s “second breakfast” was all the rage.

Commander’s Palace (p. 27) started the weekend jazz brunch, while the Court of Two Sisters (p. 24) keeps the tradition going daily with live music and a bountiful buffet. New to the NOLA brunch beat is Trinity (p. 27), where the warm Brussels sprouts salad is the perfect prelude to boudin noir and fried oysters with poached eggs topped with béarnaise.

Apolline (p. 28) ups the ante, Tue.-Sun., with bottomless mimosas and Bloody Marys and duck confit with potato hash, poached eggs, duck cracklin’ and Hollandaise. For a real eye-opener, check out the “Legs and Eggs” brunch Sundays at SoBou (p. 26, shown), where smoky bacon donuts and apple pie pancakes are served with a saucy side of burlesque.

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 BALISE French. Chef Justin Devillier of La Petite

Grocery fame now has a second space in a beautifully restored 1830s building with cool art, smart cocktails and a small menu with depth. Must-haves include the fried smoked oysters. $$ L (Tu-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.balisenola.com. 640 Carondelet St., 504.459.4449. Map 3, C5 BORGNE Seafood. At this seafood-centric John

Besh restaurant fantastic apps (such as duckand-jalapeno poppers) partner swimmingly with easy-going sandwiches, fish cooked “in a bag” and more. $$ L, D (daily). www.borgnerestaurant. com. 601 Loyola Ave. (in the Hyatt Regency Hotel), 504.613.3860. Map 3, C3 20 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

CAFÉ ADELAIDE Louisiana. Chef Meg Bickford

helms the kitchen at this bistro spinoff of Commander’s Palace in the Loews Hotel. Bickford serves up playful takes on modern Creole cuisine.

Try the oyster and pork belly po’ boy. B (daily), L (MF), D (M-Su). www.cafeadelaide.com. 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3305. Map 3, D6 CAFÉ CARMO International. This island-inspired

space pops out some wild—and wildly delicious—dishes, such as the zany Rico sandwich (a grilled plantain patty topped with pulled pork) and shrimp-filled black-eyed pea fritters. Veggie and vegan options are also featured. $ L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.cafecarmo.com. 527 Julia St., 504.875.4132. Map 3, C6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link

and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Bider-

man’s award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Handground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; house-made mayo and pickles; fresh-baked buns. Add a side of hand-cut, twice-cooked fries...and dig in. $ www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6

©SOBOU

Central Business/ Warehouse District

DINING

CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 DOMENICA Italian. Inspired by traditional Sunday

Italian family feasts (hence its name), this hot spot is counted among celebrated local chef John Besh’s growing family of restaurants. Dive into out-ofthe-norm antipasta (octopus carpaccio, roasted

cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3 EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flag-

ship sets the course for the Lagasse empire.

Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6

HERBSAINT French. James Beard Award-winning

chef Donald Link’s entrées range from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com.

701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Squash blossom

tacos, pig ear chilaquiles, octopus toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chefs (and old friends) John Besh and Aarón Sánchez teamed to create this hip eatery, which puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www.johnnysanchezrestaurant. com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

Hotel eatery, snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Sa-Su, brunch. www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MAYPOPVietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta

(MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Tear pieces of warm roti bread to scoop whole roasted pumpkin, apple and house coppa, or go spicy with vindaloo chicken. $$$ L, D (daily). www.maypoprestaurant.com. 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). www.emerilsrestaurants. com/meril. 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 NEW ORLEANS SOCIAL HOUSE Contemporary.

Sharable small plates—lobster tacos, bison sliders, salmon tartines—coupled with craft cocktails and an extensive wine list, is the idea here. Live music nightly. $$ D (nightly). www.noshneworleans.com.

752 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.1103 Map 3, C6 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap, live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. This cozy brunch bistro is

known for its traditional Italian dishes and notso-typical breakfast and lunch specials. Try the Sicilian egg pie or cannoli pancakes. Skillet cakes, waffles, overstuffed sandwiches, handmade pasta and baked goods round out the menu. $$ Open W-M. www.redgravycafe.com. 125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 RESTAURANT AUGUST French. In New Orleans,

chefs are as famous as rock stars, and John Besh is the city’s culinary Sting. He knows the classics, w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 21

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................20

Central City..................................................................................................22 French Quarter........................................................................................23 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 27 Marigny/Bywater.....................................................................................28 Mid-City..........................................................................................................28 Uptown..........................................................................................................28

he’s bold in his experimentation and he’s got a vision. The dining rooms are elegant, and the food is spectacular, as Besh combines European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.restaurantaugust.com. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5 RESTAURANT REBIRTH Cajun. Homegrown chef

Ricky Cheramie’s soulful dishes of Gulf seafood or regionally raised pork are flecked with tasso, glazed with hand-squeezed sugar cane and garnished with house-made pickles. End with the café au lait crème brulee. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantrebirth. com. 857 Fulton St., 504.522.6863. Map 3, C7 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s award-winning Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a wide wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (nightly). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chefs Lisa

White and Kelly Fields, known for their beautiful baked goods, show off their savory sides as well in dishes such as corn-and-crab fritters and lamb pot pie. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

Central City CENTRAL CITY BBQ Barbecue. Stellar barbecue

and out-of-the-norm sides make this sprawling smokehouse a popular destination. Smoke-ringed brisket, toothy-tender ribs, crispy burnt ends, umami pickles, remoulade potato salad—order up! $$ L, D (W-Su). www.centralcitybbq.com. 1201 S. Rampart St., 504.558.4276. Map 1, D3 22 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

DINING

MAIS AREPAS Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian

restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 PRIMITIVOAmerican. “Open hearth, urban cave-

man cooking” is the concept here. Inspired by backyard grill-offs, the menu changes often with dishes such as smoked oysters with green tomato chow chow and rib eye with bone-marrow butter. $$ D (M-Sa). www.primitivonola.com. 1800 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.881.1775. Map 1, D3

TOUPS SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat butter, goat tamales and fried black-eyed pea salad with cornbread croutons offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Su brunch. www.toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually

elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, crispy smoked pork cheeks with cornbread puree and the Gulf shrimp and country ham with butterbeans and sweet potatoes. $$$ D (W-Su); brunch (F-Su). www.angelinenola. com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

Where do you want to go?

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brulot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); Su jazz brunch. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Bayona continues its reign

Find the best of the city

as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in

1920, remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots, with one of the most elegant courtyards in the Quarter. Chef Neal Swindler serves up modern Creole cuisine (Caribbean fish du jour with smoked black bean sauce), along with Old World classics. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana. The perfect spot for a

leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the crab cakes with citrus drizzle, satsuma-pepper glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. $$ L (W-Su), D (W-Su); Sa-Su brunch. A quick-service offshoot, Petite Amelie, offers takeout just next door (900 Royal St., 412-8065). www.cafeamelie.com. 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks,

and delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. Tradiw w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 23

THE GUIDE

tional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www.cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St., 504.581.6554. Map 3, G5 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L, D (daily). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, make for a memorable dining experience. $$ L, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The

French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the baby back ribs, crabmeat-stuffed shrimp and fresh grilled redfish with soft-shell crab. Live jazz nightly (no cover). $$ L, D (daily). www.crescentcitybrewhouse. com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces (try the barbecue ribeye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters). Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning

steakhouse and butcher shop featuring superior quality dry-aged meats. The hunger-inducing menu also impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ L (F-Su), D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan.com. 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 EL GATO NEGRO Mexican. This popular cantina

turns out some the most authentic south-of-theborder fare in the city. The ingredients are fresh, the tortillas are made to order and the handsqueezed maragaritas made with orange, tangerine and lime are a must. Try the pineapple-cilantro version. $$ L, D (daily). www.elgatonegronola.com.

81 French Market Place, 504.525.9752. Map 3, I5; 800 S. Peters St., 504.309.8864. Map 3, C7 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GREEN GODDESS Eclectic. Chef Paul Artigues

creates big-flavored, adventurous dishes in the 24 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

DINING

tiny kitchen of this intimate Exchange Alley gem.

Possibly the only place in town you’ll find beet hummus and truffle grits sharing menu space with wild-boar meatloaf and decadent bacon sundaes. $ L, D (W-Su). www.greengoddessrestaurant.com.

307 Exchange Pl., 504.301.3347. Map 3, E4 GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has

taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 ITALIAN BARREL Italian. The focus here is on fine,

Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh ravioli flown in from Italy complements such authentic fare as veal with porcini mushrooms and truffle oil, osso bucotopped polenta and top-notch tiramisu. A fullbodied Italian wine selection is also offered. $$$ L, D (daily). www.italianbarrel.com. 430 Barracks St., 504.569.0198. Map 3, I5 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER PO’BOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly version with lime-infused slaw or the seared shrimp with sriracha aioli. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys. com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.mrbsbistro. com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 25

THE GUIDE

peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L, D (daily). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro is a perennial hot spot. The menu is filled with Emeril creations such as Louisiana crab cakes with Creole tartar sauce, pork cheek boudin balls with tomato-bacon jam and a grilled double-cut pork chop with pecan-glazed sweet potatoes. $$ L (Th-M), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated; try the turtle soup, shrimp remoulade or oysters from the raw bar. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.revolutionnola.com.

777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south

of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B, L, D (daily). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambi-

ance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner.

The adventuresome can try the Korean beef po’ 26 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

DINING

boy or the eggs Benedict po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, corned beef hash and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com. 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers

dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef John Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4 TRINITY Louisiana. The menu here pays homage

Enjoy an afternoon drink on our courtyard 510 Toulouse St. | 504.524.9632 | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

to the “trinity” of flavors, elements and techniques in New Orleans cuisine. Hush puppies get richness from duck fat, while the cucumber salad refreshes with crisp apples and pairs perfectly with the citrusy seared snapper. $$$ D (nightly), brunch (F-Su). www.trinityrestaurantneworleans.com. 1117 Decatur St., 504.325.5789. Map 3, I5

Garden District/ Lower Garden District COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where chef Michael Stoltzfus’ menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4 ROOT/SQUARE ROOT Contemporary. Two hip

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Live Jazz • Real Food • Serious Beer 527 Decatur St. • 504.522.0571 www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com

Live Jazz Nightly (no cover)

restaurants in one. Upstairs the focus is on chef Phillip Lopez’s contemporary twists on culinary standards and creative charcuterie. Downstairs centers around 16 seats flanking an open kitchen and Lopez’s multi-course tasting menu (online reservations only). $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.squarerootnola. com. 1800 Magazine St., 504.309.7800. Map 1, D4 SUCRÉ Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for

the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre.com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti. St., 504.708.4366. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2 TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are

the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and hot mustard, chicken fried steak, crab meat and crab boil potatoes served open-face. Don’t miss the wedge salad with blue cheese and “everything bagel” crunchies. $ L, w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 27

THE GUIDE

DINING

D (W-Su). www.turkeyandthewolf.com. 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. A Sunday-only treasure no

more. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is now a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard.

Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 BRATZ Y’ALL German. Celebrating the neigh-

borhood’s Germany heritage, this Bywater bistro and biergarten offers authentic brats and sausages, along with schnitzel, potato dumplings, fresh pretzels and lots of German beer. $ L, D (W-Su). www.bratzyall.com. 617 Piety St., 504.301.3222. Map 1, E3 THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swim-

ming pool, this long-popular Bywater hangout also offers casual dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crawfish beignets, bone marrow tartine), salads, sandwiches or full-on entrees, such as chateaurbriand for two. $$$ L, D (daily); Sa-Su (brunch). www.thecountryclubneworleans.com. 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3 N7 French. Counted among the nation’s Top 10

new restaurants by Bon Appetit, this quiet, tuckedaway bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. The menu is divided into plated dishes (steamed mussels, hangar steak with crushed potatoes) and specialty tinned seafood. A lovely wine list, great music and fine service equate to total charm. $$ D (M-Sa). 1117 Montegut St., no phone. Map 1, E3 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at its

best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com. 542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran

restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park.

One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

(Toups South, Emeril’s Delmonico) is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery

28 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown

Home of the Original

BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

APOLLINE Louisiana. In this renovated shotgun

house, chef Matt Farmer makes diners feel right at home with his contemporary twists on French/Creole cuisine. Char-broiled oysters with bacon marmalade, cold-smoked pork chops, seared scallops with maque choux and pork plank; at brunch try the confit duck with potato hash and duck cracklin. $$$ Brunch, D (Tu-Su). www.apollinerestaurant. com. 4729 Magazine St., 504.894.8881. Map 1, D4 AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragout. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beautiful

deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Nathan Richard’s casual coastal cuisine. Start with the clam chowder or catfish Hoppin’ John, before moving on to the seared Gulf fish. Or just grab a cocktail at the bar, while munching on Old Bay-seasoned fries. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.cavannola.com.

3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 DTB Cajun. Short for “down the bayou,” DTB pays

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

homage to chef Carl Schaubhut’s Cajun country roots with mod twists on Louisiana coastal cuisine.

Think oyster toast, alligator chorizo-stuffed squash blossoms and gumbo with crab fat rice. Killer cockNO-WM_091200_Pascal'sManale.indd1 1 tail program. $$ D (M-Sa); brunch (F-M). www.dtbnola.com. 8201 Oak St., 504.518.6889. Map 1, C3 KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu is full

of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon). Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant. com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. What once was a

corner grocery has been exquisitely transformed into an intimate French bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.lapetitegrocery.com.

4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE American. A New Orleans

landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food.

Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of

Israel at this modern Mediterranean eatery from chef Alon Shaya of restaurant Domenica fame.

Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel, kebabs and labneh, along with interesting entrees such as slow-cooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant. com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4

11/5/09 10:14:49 AM

THE GUIDE

Shopping

Show Your Stripes

A Charming Idea

With temperatures rising, seersucker season is fast heating up. The word seersucker derives from a Hindu corruption of the Persian phrase “shir sakkar,” meaning “milk and sugar.” The fabric’s slack-tension weaving leaves half its stripes smooth as milk, the others lumpy as sugar, creating pockets of cool air that are perfect for battling New Orleans’ high humidity. Perlis (p. 30) and Rubenstein’s (p. 30) are the local standard-bearers for seersucker suits, while the nationally acclaimed, locally made Jolie & Elizabeth line of women’s seersucker is found at Hattie Sparks (p. 29). For the tiny trendsetter, NOLA Kids (p. 32) offers seersucker hats, sundresses, jumpers and shorts sets.

Want to leave dinner guests spellbound?

Work your magic with SeaGem Studios’ Voodoo Collection of ceramic toothpick holders, platters and serving trays. You’ll spot them at Crescent City Cooks (p. 45), Defend New Orleans (p. 29) and the Historic New Orleans Collection gift shop (p. 46), along with SeaGem’s handcrafted oyster shells.

Books & Music BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

(LEFT) ©JODIJACOBSON/ISTOCK PHOTO; (RIGHT) ©SEA GEM STUDIOS

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel “Soldiers’ Pay.” First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, along with a large selection of New Orleans-related books. www.gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 KITCHEN WITCH New, used and vintage

cookbooks are on the menu at this charming shop geared to foodies. Special emphasis is placed on hard-to-find Southern titles and rare volumes devoted to Creole and Cajun cuisine. www.kwcookbooks.com. 1452 Broad St., 504.528.8382. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www. louisianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5

SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music

shop is big on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

FLEURTY GIRL When Lauren Thom

began printing T-shirts in her kitchen little did she know just how big the small venture would become. Today her popular designs are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net. 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3

wheretraveler.com

Clothing BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part

boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4; 600 Carondelet St., 504.324.7463. Map 3, C5 DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New Orleans

couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent Cityinspired slogans. Other locally made gift items are also offered. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4

H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known

around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-toresist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with hip home accents. www. hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5 HATTIE SPARKSThis sleek boutique’s well-curated

stock features everything from select women’s wear and hip home accents to cool cards and outof-the-norm gift items. www.hattiesparks.com. 939 Girod St., 504.510.5060. Map 3, B4 HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 KIT AND ACEThis lululemon offshoot is known for

its line of “technical cashmere” clothing. Geared to

THE PRALINE, that quintessential Crescent City souvenir, was created in 18th-century France as a digestive aide and named for French diplomat Cesar du Plassis-Preslin. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 29

THE GUIDE

SHOPPING

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www. louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Books & Music......................................................................................... 29

Clothing........................................................................................................ 29 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 30 Gourmet Food & Services ............................................................ 32 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 32 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 32 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 33 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 34 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 34 Shoes............................................................................................................... 36 Special Services...................................................................................... 36

both sexes, the chic shop’s luxe street wear is both versatile and machine-washable. www.kitandace. com. 3913 Magazine St., 844.548.6223. Map 1, D4 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie. com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 PENELOPE Affordable luxury is the key phrase at

this sophisticated women’s boutique. Searching for edgy elegance with a European accent? You’ll find it here at hard-to-beat prices: All items are under $100. 328 Chartres St., 504.522.5893. Map 3, F4 PERLIS Mudbug season lasts year-round at Perlis,

purveyor of its famous crawfish-logo line of clothing. In addition, Perlis carries such specialty items as Mardi Gras-hued rugby shirts. The place for classic seersucker suits. www.perlis.com. 6070 Magazine St., 504.895.8661. Map 1, D4 RUBENSTEIN’S The Rubenstein family has been

outfitting locals since 1924. But the fashions here are anything but dated: Zegna, Canali and Paul Smith are just a sampling of the designers in stock. www.rubensteinsneworleans.com. 102 St. Charles Ave., 504.581.6666. Map 3, E4 TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 TUXEDOS TO GEAUXWhy rent a tux when you can

own one? This formal wear shop dresses men to 30 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

the nines—complete with shirt, tie and cummerbund—for under $200. www.tuxedostogeaux.com.

3400 16th St., Metairie, 504.455.5393. Map 1, C2 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4 WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European women’s wear,

from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by such leading designers as Piazza Sempione and Stella McCartney. www.weinsteinsinc.com. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (includ-

ing designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. www.shopbungalows.com. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM

Watch master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. Among the specialty styles made here are Plantation Reserve and Vieux Carré. www.cigarfactoryneworleans.com. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. Map 3, E4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4 ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything from clothing to housewares. www.ellenmacomber. com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop, which offers hand-crafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 FOREVER NEW ORLEANS At this shop,

you’ll find fleur-de-lis everything—from pillows to pottery—along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 622 Royal St., 504.522.0950. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4; 407 Decatur St., 504.510.4030. Map 3, F5 HERB IMPORT CO. This popular smoke shop fea-

tures a large selection of herbal smoking blends, in addition to pipes and related goods. Offbeat gift items are also offered, along with aromatherapy, vitamins and detox products. www.herbimport.com.

711 St. Peter St., 504.525.4372. Map 3, G4; 5055 Canal St., 504.488.4889. Map 3, D3; 712 Adams St., 504.861.4644. Map 1, C3 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments

THE GUIDE

and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features toys

and kitchen accessories as well as sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. are also available. www.ideafactoryneworleans.com. 924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep

small hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.magicboxneworleans.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs are

showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique.

A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. iheartmiette.com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s

boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 PLUM This hip home and gift shop is devoted to

“cool stuff for stylish living,” much of which is created by local crafters. Handmade housewares, artful accents, jazzy jewelry: If it’s both fun and functional, you’ll likely find it here. www.plumneworleans.com.

1914 Magazine St., 504.897.3388. Map 1, D4 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP Interested in the

occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 ROCKET FIZZ Candy connoisseurs get their fill

at this oh-so-sweet shop, packed with nostalgic sweets and novelty treats. A large selection of British and Asian imports is offered, along with hundreds of sodas in fun flavors. www.rocketfizz. com. 831 Decatur St., 504.566.7500. Map 3, H5 SANTA’S QUARTERS Need a little Christmas right

this very minute? Load up the sleigh at this holidaythemed shop—the South’s largest—selling nativity sets, specialty lights and locally crafted ornaments year-round. www.santasquartersno.com. 1027 Decatur St., 504.581.5820. Map 3, H5 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals, note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2 32 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

Gourmet Food & Spirits BITTERSWEET CONFECTIONS Crescent City

confectioner Cheryl Scripter has built a loyal following with her incredible truffle collections. Her Warehouse District location also offers fresh morning pastries, coffees and teas, along with delicious cakes, cookies, dipped fruits, toffees and handmade nonparelis. www.bittersweetconfections. com. 725 Magazine St., 504.523.2626. Map 3, C6 KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.809.1026. Map 1, D4 LAURA’S CANDIES Laura’s confectionery dates

to 1913, making it the oldest candy store in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent “Mississippi Mud.” www.laurascandies. com. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 535 Decatur St., 504.309.2540. Map 3, F5 MARTIN WINE CELLAR Wine Spectator has recog-

nized Martin Wine as one of the country’s premier emporiums of fine vintages and gourmet food items. www.martinwine.com. 3827 Baronne St., 504.899.7411. Map 1, D4; 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, 504.896.7300. Map 1, C2 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on sourcing from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4 SIMONE’S MARKETA small, independent grocery

devoted to thoughtfully selected local and regional products. Prepared foods are also available, along with daily deli specials. www.simonesmarket.com.

8201 Oak St., 504.273.7706. Map 3, C3 VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4 VOM FASS Pop into this local branch of the growing

German chain of condiment stores, and taste your way through several walls of wonderful oils, vinegars and spirits. Select from a wild array of “from the cask” flavors—from chili-fig vinegar to nutty pistachio oil. www.vomfassusa.com. 29 Carondelet St., 504.302.1455. Map 3, E4 WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2

Hats & Accessories BELLA UMBRELLA Cloudy skies? This shop helps

you keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear,

ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrella. www.bellaumbrella.com.

2036 Magazine St., 504.302.1036. Map 1, D4 FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2123 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the country, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws and Dobbs dress hats and caps. Worldwide shipping is available.

Located just off Canal Street. www.meyerthehatter. com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.899.9299. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.701.1858. Map 1, D4 WEHMEIER’S This emporium stocks a wide

variety of super-premium items in exotic leathers, including alligator, ostrich and lizard belts, bags and accessories. Fine leather boots for both men and women from Lucchese, Old Gringo and Lane are featured. www.wehmeiers.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.681.2082. Map 3, E5

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 AVERY FINE PERFUMERY This artisanal fragrance

”smell gallery” is one of only 18 in the world and the Italian-based InterTrade Europe group’s sole stand-alone, stateside location. Hard-to-find niche brands such as Blood Concept and Boadicea are featured. www.averyfineperfumeries.com. 527 St. Joseph St., 504.522.7102. Map 3, B6 BELLADONNA DAY SPA Attempting to cover the

entire six-mile stretch of Magazine Street can run even the most ardent shopper ragged. Thankfully, Belladonna sits at the halfway point, providing rejuvenation before heading back out on the hunt. www.belladonnadayspa.com. 2900 Magazine St., 504.891.4393. Map 1, D4 FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick?

It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.

Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4

SHOPPING

HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 594.525.8266. Map 3, F3 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3

YOUR JEWELRY ISN’T JUST JEWELRY

TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., level A. Map 3, D7; 140 Carondelet St. Map 3, D3

719 ROYAL STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 504.522.0222 504.522.9222 Some jewelry displayed patented (US Pat. No. 7,007,507) • © 2015 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved • PANDORA.NET

WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

’ The Shops at Canal Place 333 Canal Street, Second Level New Orleans, LA 70130 www.wehmeiers.com 504-681-2082

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

123 Baronne St., 504.335.3190. Map 3, E3 THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City

branch of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments—reflexology, volcanic stone massages, seaweed wraps, expresso-mud scrubs—along with rejuvenating facials, manicures, pedicures and more. www. neworleans.woodhousespas.com. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3

Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY“Bohemian luxury” is the

concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. www.akastellagray.com. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 COUTELIER Form and function combine at this Riv-

erbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are knife-sharpening services, cookbooks and other kitchen accessories. www.nolaknifeworks.com. 8239 Oak Street, 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3 THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

Louisiana Alligator Belts

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls.

Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4

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THE GUIDE

SHOPPING

HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway vet

Bryan Batt has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www.hazelnutneworleans.com. 5515 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 LOOMED NOLA Hand-woven cotton, linen and silk

in a range of colors forms the basis of the organic Turkish textiles found here. Scarves, robes, towels and bedcovers are among the offerings. www. loomednola.com. 2727 Prytania St., Suite 13, 504.304.2047. Map 1, D4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4 RICCA ARCHITECTURAL SALES Accessible via the

Canal streetcar line, this Mid-City warehouse is packed with retro Southern splendor rescued from demolished buildings. Hard-to-find antique hardware, ornate mantles, stained-glass windows and an endless selection of doors merely hint at the offerings. www.riccasarchitecturalsales.com. 511 N. Solomon St., 504.488.5524. Map 1, D2 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4 THE SHOPS AT 2011 MAGAZINE This interiors

marketplace features more than 20 vendors.

Custom-made home furnishings, select antiques, art, jewelry and gift items are among the many offerings. www.theshopsat2011.com. 2011 Magazine St., 504.407.0499. Map 1, D4 SPRUCE Does your space need a spruce up? Start

by stopping in at this eco-conscious interiors studio. Funky fabrics, one-of-a-kind wallpaper and design consultation services are offered. www.sprucenola.com. 2043 Magazine St., 504.265.0946. Map 1, D4

Jewelry ADORN & CONQUER Metalsmith Maria Fomich cre-

ates handmade jewelry on site at this small space in the Rink shopping center. New Orleans elements (shotgun houses, streetcars) and bits of nature (leaf and bone imprints) are featured in her designs and works by national crafters. www.adornandconquer. com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.702.8036. Map 1, D4 ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. www.artandeyesnola.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron,

St. Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop.

As its name suggests, fleurs de lis are prominent. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 KENDRA SCOTT JEWELRYAlong with its signature

line of go-anywhere and -with-anything designs, this innovative jewelry shop lets you customize pieces to your own taste. www.kendrascott.com.

5757 Magazine St., 504.613.4227. Map 1, D4 KREWE DU OPTIC Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett

has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.kreweduoptic.com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2945. Map 3, H4 MARION CAGE “Jewelry is a form of architecture,

and the body is its landscape” is the mantra of Marion Cage McCollam, whose elegant, minimalist creations reflect her industrial-design training.

Cool home accents and hardware are also featured. www.marioncage.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.891.8848. Map 1, D4 MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 WARBY PARKERAffordable eyewear and

mid-century modern stylishness are Warby Parker’s trademarks. An in-store photo studio lets customers email images of their new glasses to themselves, or to friends, then purchase later online. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.799.2830. Map 1, D4 WELLINGTON & COMPANY This shop is largely

devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and art deco designs. A large selection of diamond engagement rings is also featured, along with new designer lines such as Thistle & Bee. www.wcjewelry.com. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4

Malls/Major Retailers GULFPORT PREMIUM OUTLETS It may be an hour’s

drive, but a day trip to this popular outlet mall is well worth the investment for bargain hunters. The sprawling complex offers deep savings at more than 70 leading retailers (from Ann Taylor and J. Crew to Coach and Nike), along with a food court to keep shoppers fueled and on the go. www. premiumoutlets.com. 10000 Factory Shops Blvd., Gulfport, Miss., 228.867.6100.

JAX BREWERY This 1891 brewhouse is now a

riverfront marketplace with three levels of shops and restaurants. www.jacksonbrewery.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.566.7245. Map 3, G5 LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, the Disney Store, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2

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THE GUIDE

THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art, dine-in movie theater. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

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along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. Adjacent to the Convention Center, Riverwalk is within easy walking distance of the CBD and French Quarter. www.riverwalkmarketplace.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7

DONALD J. PLINER This Canal Place retailer is

devoted to shoes, handbags and accessories from designer Donald J. Pliner. www.donaldjpliner.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.522.1720. Map 3, E5 FEET FIRST More than 50 lines of women’s brand-

name shoes, handbags, jewelry and accessories are offered here. www.feetfirststores.com. 526 Royal St. 504.569.0005. Map 3, G4; 4122 Magazine St., 504.899.6800. Map 1, D4 GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2

NO-WM_140400_IdeaFactory.indd 1

Fine Writing Instruments, Inks, Journals, Wax & Seals, Desk Accessories, Stationery, Inkwells and Dipping Pens

JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “New Orleans’ greatest addiction” of-

fers high-fashion women’s shoes without the high prices that usually accompany them. Get a step ahead with a large selection of cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers.

324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4

Special Services

Papier Plume 842 Royal Street (504) 988-7265 www.papierplume.com

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FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In addition

to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility provides Internet access, copying and faxing services. www. frenchquarterpostal.com. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4 PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photos. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4 ROYAL MAIL SERVICE Can’t fit all the goodies

you bought into the overhead bin? Send them home via this postal center, which offers DHL, Federal Express and UPS pickups. 828 Royal St., 504.522.8523. Map 3, H4

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Galleries+Antiques New Body of Work Local artist Craig Tracy (p. 38) has established quite a reputation and following over the past decade as an internationally acclaimed bodypainter, a judge on the Game Show Network’s “Skin Wars” and owner of the world’s first gallery devoted to the craft. In celebration of the 11th anniversary of his eponymous Royal Street showroom, Tracy recently released “Al Fresco ~ French Quarter,” a 17-piece series that spotlights Vieux Carré architecture.

A departure from his standard style, in which painted nudes blend seamlessly with the background, the model in “Al Fresco” starkly stands out from the colorful French Quarter façades behind her. “This is a project I’ve dreamed of for 10 years,” says Tracy. “This is my city, my neighborhood and my art form all wrapped into one series that communicates exactly who I am as an artist.”

Central Business/ Warehouse District ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com.

440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY Contem-

porary Louisiana artists, both established and emerging, are spotlighted here. Works by Michael Guidry, Bob Graham and others are featured. www.brandartnolacom. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY Contemporary works

©CRAIG TRACY GALLERY

by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.callancontemporary.com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6 D.O.C.S. Warehouse Arts District dynamo Richard

Nesbitt is the driving force behind this gallery, which showcases a wide range of works by regional up-and-comers. www.docsgallery.com. 709 Camp St., 504.524.3936. Map 3, C6

JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe Zammit-Lucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com.

454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6

wheretraveler.com Home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintlocal and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. ings, sculpture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com.

504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings, STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’ presculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are eminent exhibition space for African-American among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalartists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett, leries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 Richmond Barthé, Georgette Baker, Charly MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary is Palmer and Samella Lewis, among others. www. the key word here, from the sleek space itself to stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, the cutting-edge creations on its walls. Rotat504.568.9050. Map 3, D4 ing exhibits by mid-career and emerging artists working in a wide range of media are featured.

French Quarter www.martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s

NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF GLASSWORKS AND PRINTMAKING STUDIO This working artists’ stu-

dio features free demonstrations by local master crafters in blown glass, printmaking and fine silver.

Designs made in the studio are on display—and for sale—in the front showroom. How-to classes are also offered. www.neworleansglassworks.com. 727 Magazine St., 504.529.7277. Map 3, C6 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by

most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery. com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert, Steve Taylor, Charles Thysell and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com.

241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4

NIGHT GALLERY: After the sun sets local crafters come out to display their wares at the Frenchmen Art Market (619 Frenchmen St.), Thur.-Mon., 7 pm-midnight. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 37

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 37

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 37 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................40 Collectives.....................................................................................................41 Other Locations.......................................................................................41

ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern France

on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18th-century antiques, including armoires, chandeliers, limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4 BRASS MONKEY This tiny storefront offers one

of the largest selections of Limoges boxes in the Quarter, as well as antique walking sticks and other collectible curios. 407 Royal St., 504.561.0688. Map 3, F4 CALLAN FINE ART Specializing in fine European

paintings from 1830 to 1950, this prestigious gallery features museum-quality examples from the academic, Barbizon, impressionistic and post-impressionist movements as well as select contemporary works. www.callanfineart.com. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.0025. Map 3, F4 CLAIRE ELIZABETH GALLERY Emerging local and

regional contemporary artists are spotlighted here.

Works range from painting and photography to sculpture and papercuts. www.claireelizabethgallery.com. 131 Decatur St., 504.309.4063. Map 3, E5 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 ELLIOTT GALLERY Fine contemporary and modern

art from world-renowned artists is the standard here. Artists represented include Theo Tobiasse, James Coignard, Max Papart, Nissan Engel, Garrick Yrondi, David Schneuer, Petra Seipel, Picasso, 38 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

View of Basin Street (detail); ca. 1908; The Historic New Orleans Collection, gift of Alber t Louis, Lieutaud, 1957.101

ST RY VILLE MADAMS & MUSIC An exhibition on view through December 9, 2017 THNOC’s Williams Research Center 410 Chartres Street Tuesday–Saturday, 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

Admission is free.

The varied attractions of sex, music, and dance emanating from New Orleans’s former red-light district lured visitors from around the country.

Stor yville: Madams and Music traces the rise and fall of the neighborhood that helped shape the notorious reputation that adheres to New Orleans today. www.hnoc.org | (504) 523-4662 |

#madamsandmusic

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

Miró and Chagall. www.elliottgallery.com. 540 Royal St., 504.523.3554. Map 3, G4 FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and

19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 GALLERY 2 Part animal/part human, Betsy

Youngquist’s stunning beaded sculptures will draw you into this shared space, which also features Ann Marie Cianciolo’s whimsical sculptural jewelry. www.gallerytwonola.com. 831 Royal St., 504.513.8312. Map 3, H4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and in-

ternational artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 HARRIS ANTIQUES One of the finest antiquaries in

the Quarter, carrying an extensive array of French and English antiques, paintings, Oriental rugs and statuary. www.harrisantiques.com. 233 Royal St., 504.523.1605. Map 3, F4

Maturation Saturation | 60"×36"

617 B i e nv i l l e S t re e t | N ew O r l e a n s michalopoulos.com 617 B i e nv i l l e S t re e t | N ew O r l e a n s michalopoulos.com

IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-

Fu l l ret ro s p e c t i ve o n v i ew n ow t h ro u g h J u ly 1 6 at t h e O g d e n M u s e u m

O

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART Maturation Saturation | 60"×36"

925 CAMP STREET NEW ORLEANS OGDENMUSEUM.ORG

Fu l l ret ro s p e c t i ve o n v i ew n ow t h ro u g h J u ly 1 6 at t h e O g d e n M u s e u m

O

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

925 CAMP STREET NEW ORLEANS OGDENMUSEUM.ORG

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and European porcelain, in addition to marble and bronze statuary. www.idamanheimantiques.com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JACK GALLERY Rediscover the golden age of

advertising with recreated vintage posters by Cappiello, Steinlen, Toulouse-Lautrec and others. The works of Tom Everhart (the only artist authorized to use “Peanuts” characters in his designs), and creations by Rolling Stones guitarist Ron Wood are also featured. www.jackgallery.com. 813 Royal St., 504.588.1777. Map 3, H4 JACK SUTTON ANTIQUES The Sutton family has

been one of Royal Street’s most prominent since 1915. This emporium is an elegantly decorated living room filled with 19th- and 20th-century decorative antiques, vintage watches, fine jewelry, dinnerware and paintings. 315 Royal St., 504.522.0555. Map 3, F4 JAMES H. COHEN & SONS This fifth-generation,

family-run business, founded in 1898, specializes in pre-19th-century weaponry, coins dating from 450 B.C. and Civil War-related items. www.cohenantiques.com. 437 Royal St., 504.524.0802. Map 3, F4 JAMIE HAYES GALLERY The colorful works of

artist and children’s book author Hayes have been said to capture “the true spirit of New Orleans,” and acquired by such famous collectors as Robin Williams, k.d. lang and Muhammad Ali. Original paintings, prints and fun gift items are featured. www.jamiehayes.com. 617 & 621 Chartres St., 504.592.4080 ; 504.596.2344. Map 3, G4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4

w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 39

THE GUIDE

KEZIC GALLERY Diego Lukezic is triple talented.

Perhaps best known for his popular “Tango Dog” series, the local artist also creates New Orleans architectural images using the pseudonym “Martin Luke” and 4-D florals as “Kezic.” www.kezic.com.

343 Royal St., 504.298.1096. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals

in international oil paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5 LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in

objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4 M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MARTIN WELCH ART Martin “the Crab Man” Welch

has been capturing crustaceans on canvas since 2002. His brightly hued, sea-themed works have been showcased at the New Orleans Museum of Art as well as on the HBO series “Treme.” www.martinwelchart.com. 223 Dauphine St., 504.388.4240. Map 3, F3 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architec-

tural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them at his eponymous French Quarter gallery, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery,

which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. www.mossantiques.com.

411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 40 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

PENNINGTON FINE ARTWith no formal training,

Jim Pennington honed his craft studying (and copying) the paintings of Degas, Sargent, Whistler and others at Boston’s Museum of Fine Art and New York’s Museum of Modern Art. His French Quarter gallery offers original oilworks, along with giclées. www.penningtonart.com. 829 Royal St., 985.789.5547. Map 3, H4 PHOTO WORKS This gallery showcases the work of

photographer Louis Sahuc, known for his dramatic shots of the city, which have been called “the quintessential images of New Orleans.” Sahuc specializes in black-and-white, but also creates vivid color prints. www.photoworksneworleans.com. 521 St. Ann St., 504.593.9090. Map 3, G5 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 938 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 TANNER GALLERIES & STUDIO Home to local

artist Tanner’s colorful-yet-haunting “treescapes.”

Originals are offered. www.hauntingart.com. 830 Royal St., 504.524.8266. Map 3, H4 TRESOR GALLERY Offbeat illustration, macabre

assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. www.tresorgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.309.3991. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for history and Hollywood

buffs, this hip shop is filled with maps, signed collectibles and one-of-a-kind jewelry. Marilyn Monroe glamour pics, first-edition novels and assorted music memorabilia are among the many offerings.

329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works

in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec. Contemporary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minimalist Jose Basso complement the collection, along with sculpture by Richard McDonald, Martin Eichinger and Paige Bradley. www.windsorfineart. com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. Originals are offered, along with limited-edition silk screens and giclée prints. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.0394. Map 1, D4 AS YOU LIKE IT SILVER SHOP This shop stocks silver

flatware in hundreds of active and inactive patterns to complete an existing set or begin a new one.

Browse among tea services, goblets and more. www.asyoulikeitsilvershop.com. 3033 Magazine St., 504.897.6915. Map 1, D4 CAROL ROBINSON GALLERY Spotlighting local

and national artists such as Jere Allen, Karen Jacobs and Elliot Snellings, this gallery show-

cases paintings, sculpture and ceramics. www. carolrobinsongallery.com. 840 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.6130. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 FRENCHY GALLERY Art of the moment takes on

new meaning in the hands of Randy Leo Frechette, who captures moments on canvas as they unfold.

From music fests to sporting events to Carnival parades, you’ll find the real-time artist fast at work among the crowds. www.frenchylive.com. 8319 Oak St., 504.861.7595. Map 1, C3 GARDEN DISTRICT GALLERY This gallery, located

near Commander’s Palace restaurant, features rotating exhibits by local, regional and national artists. www.gardendistrictgallery.com. 1332 Washington Ave., 504.891.3032. Map 1, D4 KEVIN STONE ANTIQUES This respected dealer

scours European estate sales for top-quality antiques, with an emphasis on unusual 18thand 19th-century items from France and Italy.

The inventory here runs the gamut from fine furnishings to decorative accessories. www. kevinstoneantiques.com. 3420 Magazine St., 504.891.8282. Map 1, D4 NEW ORLEANS PHOTO ALLIANCE GALLERY This

growing photography collective strives to stimulate “artistic growth while preserving the rich and diverse photographic culture of New Orleans and the southern region” through rotating monthly exhibits. www.neworleansphotoalliance.org. 1111 St. Mary St., 504.513.8030. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

this Uptown studio, with its pop art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past

decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his vibrant architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life, which have been commissioned by Nike, the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and others. www.galleryosborne.com. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530.

THE SPIELMAN COMPANY Photographer David

Spielman is known for his black-and-white takes of famous Southern scribes, and for chronicling the city in the days after Katrina. His works are found at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art...and at his Garden District gallery. www.davidspielman.com.

2727 Prytania St., 504.899.7670. Map 1, D4 THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O This innovative de-

sign gallery is the showplace of “techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann and other contemporary metalsmiths, you’ll find lamps and fine furnishings by a variety of designers. www.thomasmann.com. 1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2113. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture offered here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works (oil paintings, photography, pottery, blown glass, masks) by dozens of regional artists. Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Pl., 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 80 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3

YOUR EVENT WILL BE CELEBRATED IN HISTORY.

DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5

H E R M A N N -GR I M A H O U S E N E W O R LE A N S ’ H I S T O R I C E V E N T S ET T ING .

JACKSON SQUARE ART COLLECTIVE For more than

five decades, artists have been gathering around Jackson Square’s black iron fence, exposing their art to the public and the public to their art. One of the oldest active art colonies in the nation, the collective counts numerous artists displaying their works daily. www.jackson-square.com. Map 3, G5

820 saint louis street | events@hgghh.org hgghh.org

RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym

a n tiques

d e p r o v e n c e, l l c F R E N C H

I N T É R I E U R S

&

J A R D I N S

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts. com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.523.7945. Map 3, E5

Other Locations DR. BOB’S STUDIO ”Be Nice or Leave” is the

trademark slogan of self-taught artist Bob Shaffer, whose vibrant folk-art paintings are in the private collections of David Letterman, Mariah Carey, Harry Shearer and others. “Tourists tolerated.” www.drbobart.net. 3027 Chartres St., 504.945.2225. Map 1, E3 5 PRESS GALLERY Part of the New Orleans Center

for Creative Arts, this airy space spotlights works by professional artists with strong ties to the nationally acclaimed high school, from notable alumni to visiting artists-in-residence. www.5pressgallery.com. 5 Press St., 504.249.5624. Map 1, E3 FRENCHMEN ART MARKETThis plein air art market

fills an alley tucked amid Frenchmen Street’s famed music halls. From handcrafted jewelry to handmade soaps to folk art, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares. Open Th-M, 7 pm-1 am. www.frenchmenartmarket.com. 619 Frenchmen St., 504.941.1149. Map 3, J5 JAZZFEST GALLERY Illustrator David Stone Martin

FRENCH ANTIQUES • GARDEN & LIGHTING FRENCH ART • MIRRORS • OLIVE JARS NEW SOFA SHOWROOM! 623 ROYA L ST. FREN CH Q UA RT ER 50 4. 529. 4 342 A N T I Q U E S D E P R O V E N C E.C O M

created hundreds of jazz album covers during the 1940s and ’50s. This exclusive dealer of his images offers museum-stock prints produced from vintage-edition plates. www.jazzfestgallery.com.

504.218.0304.

ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic

Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8 w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 41

THE GUIDE

Entertainment

Family Fueled

In Their Cups

Set off on one of the steamboat Natchez‘s (p. 46) daily river cruises, and your attention will first be drawn to its massive red paddlewheel. But what really fuels the last authentic steamboat still plying the mighty river is a trio of father/son teams for whom life on the Mississippi is very much a family affair. From the Natchez’s pilothouse to its boiler room, these three second-generation crews have spent a combined 174 years cruising the Crescent City waterfront. In celebration of Father’s Day and summer’s arrival, the steamboat hosts a Family Fun Day excursion June 17 at 2:30 pm with special entertainment and kidfriendly games. All aboard!

Forget the plastic go-cups. To give your home bar a true New Orleans twist, down a few Hurricanes at Pat O’Brien’s (p. 47) … for the signature souvenir glasses, of course.

Or pay a visit to the Roosevelt Hotel, where the gift shop serves up the same trademark tumblers that are used at its legendary Sazerac Bar (p. 47).

ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34-acre green space is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $29.95 adults, $24.95 seniors and $21.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM Located in the circa-1860 U.S. Custom

House, this ranks as the nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5 AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among

the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www.auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

space plays host to free fan fests during 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon New Orleans Saints home games and numerous concerts throughout the year.

Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. wheretraveler.com $22.95 adults, $19.95 seniors, $17.95 www.champions-square.com. 1500 Poydras ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St., 504.587.3822. Map 3, B2 St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Opens at 10 CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a am daily; call for closing times. www.audubonlush canopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, institute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or larger even than New York’s Central Park. www.

800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities of 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 the dead” act as windows on the past, offering inCRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the sight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or just outside the French Quarter, is the city’s oldest; climb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans streets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter to of her works there. Many are located in high-crime the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers jogging areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, and biking paths, a dog run and picture-perfect day or night. picnic areas www.crescentparknola.org. Map 3, J6 CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEM ETERYJust down the river from where Andrew

Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears his name is the battlefield where he fought the last battle of the War of 1812. History buffs can check out the visitor center, listen to daily ranger talks, explore Chalmette National Cemetery or relax under the park’s live oaks. https://www.nps.gov/ jela/chalmette-battlefield.htm. 8606 W St Bernard Hwy., 504.281.0510. Map 1, F3 CHAMPIONS SQUAREThis open-air venue, adja-

cent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, boasts 45,000 sq. ft. and state-of-the-art technology. The

ENTERGY GIANT SCREEN THEATER Eye-popping

features are shown on a five-and-a-half-story screen. $11.95 adults, $9.95 seniors, $9.95 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for schedule and closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org.

Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 ESCAPE MY ROOMThe concept of this live, interac-

tive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an hour and you and your teammates “escape” the mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and fun) than that. A great activity for families and group team-building. Reservations required.

SOUTHERN LIVING magazine recently ranked New Orleans among the “South’s Best Cities,” noting its restaurants, bars, museums and “incomparable music scene.”

42 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

(LEFT) ©STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ; (RIGHT) ©ROOSEVELT HOTEL

Attractions & Landmarks

THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 61-63.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................42 Cooking Classes .....................................................................................45 Cruises & Tours ........................................................................................45 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 46 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 46 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 47

www.escapemyroom.com. 633 Constance St., 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6 FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market

dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served as a native American trading post. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Pl., 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 FULTON ALLEY Putting a fresh spin on the old

bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with an indoor game parlor (bocce, foosball, etc.), cool craft cocktails and bigflavored small plates. www.fultonalley.com. 600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569. Map 3, D6 GLOBAL WILDLIFE CENTER This free-roaming

wildlife preserve, the nation’s largest, is home to more than 3,000 exotic animals and endangered animals from around the globe. Guided tours are offered daily; call for hours. $17 adults, $ 15 seniors, $11 children, kids under 2 free. www. globalwildlife.com. 26389 Hwy. 40, Folsom, La., 985.796.3585. Map 2, F1 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleans-themed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur St. at St. Ann St. Map 3, G5 JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK AND PRESERVE On this 23,000-acre area of protected

wetlands, you’ll get to see egrets, cranes, pelicans and alligators in their natural habitat. Wooden walkways allow you to explore deep into the swamp. www.nps.gov/jela. 6588 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, 504.589.3882.

LAFITTE GREENWAYThis 2.6-mile bike and pedes-

trian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park.

The ADA-compliant green corridor, dotted with recreation fields, offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. www.lafittegreenway.org. Map 3, F2 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the 44 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8 MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS BOTANICAL & TRAIN GARDENS

City Park’s beautiful Botanical Gardens feature more than 2,000 tropical and subtropical plants, along with the Historic Train Garden, a miniature railroad exhibit with landmarks constructed of botanical matter. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm; train garden, weekends only. $6 adults, $3 children. www.neworleanscitypark.com. Victory Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.588.7608. Map 3, F4 OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the

oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 students/military; ages 8 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic church in the nation. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited

by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. www. stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 THE THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE This state-

of-the-art movie theater offers nine separate screens, along with in-seat dining from its in-house Gusto Café and Bar. www.thetheatres.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cooking Classes CRESCENT CITY COOKS! Learn the secrets

of New Orleans-style cuisine from chefs who conduct two-hour classes daily (10 am), and taste the results afterward during lunch; prices vary.

Hands-on classes are also offered, along with a large selection of spices and culinary utensils. www.crescentcitycooks.com. 201 Chartres St., 504.529.1600. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su, 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5

Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES Explore Lake

10 A.M. UNTIL 7 DAYS A WEEK

Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did. Daily three-hour, eco-friendly canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with moonlight and twilight outings. Transportation available; prices vary. www.canoeandtrail.com.

504.233.0686.

CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

group city and plantation tours, in addition to private excursions. Hotel pickups available; rates vary. www.celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative

We have DIRECTV NBA league pass Riverside Dining SPANISH PLAZA ON THE RIVER

Across from Harrah’s Casino next to Hilton Hotel

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Gourmet Burgers, Wings, Gourmet Pizzas, Salads & Po-Boys

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double-decker bus tour allows you to hop off— then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

Unlimited hop-on, hop-off sightseeing: Adult 1-day ticket: $39; adult 3-day ticket (includes free guided walking tours of the French Quarter and Garden District): $49; children (ages 3-12), $10 any tour. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided

bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered, along with customized bike tours.. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and 3-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 CRESCENT CITY BIKE TOURS These three-hour

guided bike rides explore the French Quarter and Tremé neighborhoods, along with Armstrong Park and the Mississippi riverfront. Tours are $49; rentals

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THE GUIDE

are $25/day. www.crescentcitybiketours.com. 626 N. Rampart St., 504.322.3455. Map 3, G3 FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis #1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am and 1 pm; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$22. Departs Sa-M at 10 am. True Crime Tour –Private tour, call for reservations. www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery. Super City Tour –2 hrs. City Express Tour –1.25 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs. Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs.

Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.

Original Cocktail Tour –2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour-5.5 hrs.For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans.com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/ military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am, and M-Sa, 1:15 pm, from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs.

Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs. Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.).

Haunted Pub Crawl –2 hrs. Departs nightly (5:30 pm and 8:15 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 pm and 7:30 pm) from

Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www.hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS Get fit and

informed at the same time. Guided jogs through the French Quarter and Garden District are offered daily; customized tours are also available. Groups meet at the corner of Decatur and Barracks streets. www.neworleansjoggingtours.com. Map 3, I5 SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am and Sa-Su at 1 pm from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under.

Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse 46 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR Free

guided daily tours, 9 am-4 pm, except major holidays. www.tabasco.com. La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from 701 Royal Street; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

Museums & Exhibits BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display. Admission $10; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. www.backstreetmuseum.org.

1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $8 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also hosts performances. $10; $8 seniors/ students. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www.cacno.org.

900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned New

Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www. hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, I4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/

museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen.

Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by appointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4-D film “Beyond All Boundaries,” while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $26 adults, $22.50 seniors, $16.50 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. “Beyond All Boundaries”: an additional $5; “Final Mission”: an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings.

The Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $8 college students, $6 ages 7-17, free ages 6 and under. Sculpture Garden open daily, 10 am-6 pm; free. www.noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUMThe Newcomb College

division of Tulane University is known worldwide for its Arts and Crafts pottery. Its museum features rare examples from the early 20th century, in addition to traveling exhibits. Free; open Tu-F, 10 am-5 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-4 pm. www.newcombartgallery. tulane.edu. Tulane University, 55 Newcomb Pl., 504.865.5328. Map 1, D3 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $13.50 adults, $11 seniors/students, $6.75 children (under 5 free). Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6

Cocktails ALTO Get above it all at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop

bar, which offers sweeping views and poolside dining. Open daily, 10 am-9pm. www.acehotel. com/neworleans/alto. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map3, C5 ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYOU WINE GARDENThis casual Mid-City spot

offers 32 rotating wines on draft and a huge bottled selection. Cheese and charcuterie boards are also available, in addition to small and large plates. More a suds fan? Cross the courtyard bridge to the adjacent Bayou Beer Garden. www.bayouwinegarden.com. 315 N. Rendon St., 504.826.2925. Map 1, D3 EFFERVESCENCEThis bubbly spot features 90-plus

bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates, ranging from caviar and potato chips to grilled octopus. For a unique treat order the Champagne-topped frozen grapefruit. Open W-Su. www.nolabubbles.com. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play

(the author once stayed here), this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. Modeled after an artist’s loft, the sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and amazing views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1452. Map 1, D3 LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a mas-

sive tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. Check out the many seasonal beers, from the spicy Flambeau Red Ale to the summery 7th Street Wheat. www. nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail,

this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 PATRICK’S BAR VIN Krewe of Cork founder and

all-around grape guy Patrick Van Hoorebeek’s namesake wine bar offers dozens of vintages by the glass and even more by the bottle. Cocktails, cheeses and charcuterie are also served. www.patricksbarvin.com. 730 Bienville St., 504.581.7300. Map 3, F4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s

club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3

Live Entertainment BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue

is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as Kermit Ruffins and the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 CAFÉ NEGRIL This intimate club features crowd-

pleasing live acts, ranging from jazz and blues to rock and reggae (Fridays), and the island-themed atmosphere sets a mellow vibe. While the dance floor fills up, the open kitchen turns out tacos, burritos and quesadillas. 606 Frenchmen St., 504.944.4744. Map 3, J5 D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip

features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 47

wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape

inside the Ritz-Carlton offering classic New Orleans cocktails and sexy small plates, along with entertainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

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HOWLIN’ WOLF This locally owned and operated

2

club features low cover charges and low attitude.

Acts include both local favorites and big names; the music ranges from punk to straight-ahead rock. www.thehowlinwolf.com. 907 S. Peters St., 504.522.9653. Map 3, C7

• Open 6 Days • Closed Tuesdays • Dinner served 5pm-till • Live Music

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSEThis stylish spot inside the

Royal Sonesta New Orleans recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. The club features performances by a rotating roster of toptier local talent, nightly at 8 pm. Retro burlesque Fridays at 11 pm. No reservations required; $20 preferred seating. www.sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map , F4

536 Frenchmen 504.252.4801 3musesnola.com

MAPLE LEAF A tin roof, a sweaty dance floor, a

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quintessential N’awlins experience: fueled by funk from some Crescent City greats, the crowd goes till dawn. www.mapleleafbar.com. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4 ROCK ‘N’ BOWL A legendary local favorite now in

LIVE LOCAL MUSIC

FRENCH QUARTER

7 NIGHTS A WEEK

dbaneworleans.com

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of Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Ellis Marsalis andDAUPHINE Charmaine Neville are regulars. Two Hermannsets nightly. www.snugjazz.com.

626 Frenchmen Grima House St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4

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a new, larger location, Rock ’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts. Check out swing night on Wednesdays.

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THE GUIDE

Navigate Hit the Road

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

LOUIS ARMSTRONG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is currently undergoing a $917-million makeover, complete with a new 35-gate terminal due to open in 2018.

50 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

©SHAWN FINK

Worlds apart from New Orleans but just a short drive away, Cajun country (p. 51) is almost a state within a state, comprising 22 parishes in the southwest portion of Louisiana.

Take a group of Nova Scotians and Québécois displaced by Canada’s French and Indian War during the 1750s, add a handful of Native American tribes and a sprinkling of German immigrants, and you get the rich cultural mix that is Acadiana. With the bustling city of Lafayette at its center, it’s easy to explore the hundreds of tiny towns that dot the region. From the low rolling hills in the north to the muddy bayous in the south—and all the crawfish, boudin and zydeco between—a visit to Cajun country is well worth a day (or two) trip.

N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 61-63.

Index General Information........................................................................... 50 Nearby Destinations............................................................................51 Cajun Country...........................................................................................51 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 51 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 51 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................51 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................51 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 51 Transportation ....................................................................................... 50

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters and a growing number of popular eateries. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5 CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military

outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residental shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE ARTS DISTRICT This “Southern

SoHo” adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history

and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

LAFOURCHE PARISH Founded in 1807, Lafourche

was one of the Louisiana’s original parishes when it became a state in 1812. Situated along Bayou Lafourche, which extends to the Gulf of Mexico, the area is rich in fish and wildlife, making it an ideal location for early Acadian settlers. The Jean Lafitte National Park Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center in Thibodaux, the parish seat, offers insight into Cajun life, while swamp tours provide an upclose look local flora and fauna. Thibodaux is also home to the Laurel Village Sugar Plantation and Museum (the largest surviving 19th–century sugar plantation in the U.S.) and Nicholls State University (aka “Harvard on the Bayou”). www.visitlafourche. com. 985.537.5800.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across Lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time, cher. www. houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 51

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Retro Romance Destination weddings take on a whole new meaning along historic River Road, where bridal parties don’t just travel to another time zone, but to an entirely different era.

Most plantations offer wedding packages, from elaborate affairs to simple ceremonies. At Destrehan, for example, vows are exchanged in a rustic 1830s mule barn, while Nottoway (shown), with its exquisite all-white ballroom, full-service salon and on-site honeymoon suite, is more refined.

At Oak Alley couples gather beneath a picturesque canopy of 300-year-old oaks to say their “I dos.” Houmas House, with its 38 acres of lush gardens and varied venues (from the pristine Grand Lawn to the Asianinspired Tea House), can conduct multiple ceremonies at once, helping secure its placement among The Knot’s list of the nation’s best wedding facilities.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $18 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably “Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte”). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African folk Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $22 adults, $8 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $5 ages 6-12. Group rates available.

by Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are www.oakalleyplantation.org. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vachoffered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children erie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the CIvil War; today only a handful remain.

58 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

©NOTTOWAY PLANTATION

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 58 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 58 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 59 Dining........................................................................................................... 60

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $20 adults, $18 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The main house is composed of a series of connected w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 59

THE GUIDE

P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in 60 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings (seafood crepes, crawfishand-brie omelettes) is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are offered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

THE GUIDE | MAPS

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 3 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 t S Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 in e RH a v OC Omni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 Sp hA AveOmni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 OO c n i l o kPL n R a Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 Fr St PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 7 Street Direction SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 French Quarter WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 E4 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 Jazzy Passes WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

Outdoors Lover

Family Travelers

Music Fan

From biking, boating and fishing to tennis, horseback riding and golf, (1) City Park offers an easy escape for outdoor enthusiasts.

Bird-watchers will gravitate to the Couturie Forest, while fitness junkies will find what they're after around the Big Lake. As one of the nation’s most bike-friendly cities, New Orleans counts numerous two-wheel vendors.

(2) Crescent City Bike Tours is among of the most popular, offering guided rides as well as private rentals. Set off on the Lafitte Greenway, which runs from the French Quarter through Mid-City. Or explore the Tammany Trace, which travels through five Northshore communities. The Northshore is also home to (3) Canoe & Trail Adventures, which launches daily eco-conscious expeditions that work both your brain and your body.

Penguins and sea otters and leucistic alligators—oh, my! Kids are encouraged to take part in daily feedings at the (1) Audubon Aquarium and to go deep with the “Great Maya Reef” exhibit, which allows them to get eye-to-eye with stingrays, yellow snapper and other liquid assets. The city’s Carnival spirit lives on year-round at (2) Mardi Gras World, a huge riverfront warehouse where Paul Bunyan rubs shoulders with King Kong and Elvis cavorts with giant mermaids.

Spread over 900 acres in nearby Folsom, the (3) Global Wildlife Center offers safari tours in customized covered wagons, from which groups feed antelope, bison, camel, giraffe, zebra and more, while learning the importance of conservation. For more one-on-one time, book a private Pinzgauer tour.

The aptly named, oft-overlooked (1) New Orleans Musical Legends Park features life-size depictions of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain, Fats Domino, Allen Toussaint and other local greats, with free live jazz performed throughout the day. Want to hear more? Toss a few coins in the fountain to benefit the music education of French Quarter elementary students. Or swing by (2) Louisiana Music Factory, which claims the world’s largest selection of New Orleans recordings, and rummage the racks while catching a live, in-store performance. With few seats, no air conditioning and no booze, you wouldn’t think folks would be lining up to get in (3) Preservation Hall. But line up they do and have since 1961. The music is worth the wait; traditional New Orleans jazz at its very best.

64 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I J U N E 2017

(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©SHAWN FINK; ©CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©JEFF STROUT/AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE; ©MARDI GRAS WORLD; ©GLOBAL WILDLIFE CENTER; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©SHAWN FINK; ©PRESERVATION HALL

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS

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steamboat

Last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River Three cruises a day from the French Quarter Dinner Jazz Cruise, Sunday Brunch & more Calliope Concerts & Engine Room Visits Inside and outside seating Live Jazz on all cruises 504-569-1401 • SteamboatNatchez.com