Where New Orleans November 2016

NOVEMBER 2016 CELEBRATING 80 YEARS OF TRAVEL

New Orleans

®

New NOLA Dining Icons

FIND THE BEST OF THE CITY where traveler.com

What’s now in Crescent City cuisine

HOLIDAY HOEDOWNS HORSE RACING DOLLY PARTON, BONNIE RAITT, ANTHONY DAVIS AND MORE

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FEELING BOLD 52 x 32in, oil on linen

Sutton Galleries Celebrating the work of living Master

Juan Medina

Meet the Master Saturday November 12 2016 6-9 pm.

519 Royal Street | New Orleans LA | 504-581-1914 | Suttonsgalleries.com 220573-A1-1.indd 1 NO-WM_161100_0C2-007.indd 2

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Fresh Florida

STONE CRABS Now Available

Open 5 p.m. Daily • 322 Magazine Street • 504.522.7902 • chophousenola.com

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New Orleans CONTENTS

11.16

SEE MORE OF NEW ORLEANS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

the plan

the guide 28

11 Ask the Expert

DINING

XX

Pierre LeBrument Westin Canal Place concierge.

Eateries organized alphabetically and by neighborhood.

Plus a trio of tasty food fetes.

12 Editor's Itinerary An 80-minute exploration of Magazine Street in celebration of Where's 80th anniversary.

40

SHOPPING

XX

Chic stores and unique boutiques. Plus Nordstrom Rack and paying respects at the Witches Altar of the Dead.

14 Hot Dates Dr. Seuss' How the Grinch Stole Christmas!

Whoville dat, Saints home games, Dolly Parton, Bianca Del Rio and 16 other entertaining ideas to entertain.

GALLERIES &

50 ANTIQUES XX

A citywide gallery crawl. Plus hands-on sewing lessons from Chris Roberts-Antieau.

XX 56 ENTERTAINMENT Tours, attractions, museums, bars and music clubs. Plus horsing around on Thanskgiving Day and Faux/Real Fest.

XX

74

Curated Crescent City itineraries for music lovers, luxury seekers and outdoors enthusiasts.

ON THE COVER

NOVEMBER 2016 CELEBRATING 80 YEARS OF TRAVEL

New Orleans

®

Southern fried New NOLA Dining Icons

quail with corn

FIND THE BEST OF THE CITY where traveler.com

What’s now in Crescent City cuisine

hoe cake, hot sauce and local

HORSE RACING DOLLY PARTON, BONNIE RAITT, ANTHONY DAVIS AND MORE

Angeline. ©DENNY

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CULBERT

where now 16 Local Flavor

HOLIDAY HOEDOWNS

honey from

16

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Christmas pageantry and Napoleonic art.

19 Style Watch Anthony Davis, the Pelicans' fashionable forward.

20 Food + Drink READ US ON MAGZTER

Transportation, neighborhoods and nearby destinations. Plus the new Rampart/ St. Claude streetcar line.

XX

82

PLANTATION COUNTRY

Open houses and guided tours along historic River Road.

Plus readdressing slavery.

The next big things: Seven movers and shakers who are reshaping the Crescent City culinary scene.

18 Out + About CONNECT WITH US

NAVIGATE

Restaurant delivery smartphone apps, apple fritters and food for your feet.

MAPS

Explore the city from north to south and A to Z page 85-87

(LEFT) MANGUS HASTINGS; (CENTER) ©COQUETTE

88 Where Inside: New Orleans Your Way

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FOLLOW IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS It should have been impossible. Crossing the world’s widest ocean to answer an attack made by a powerful adversary.

Through hostile terrain and untold suffering, millions of Americans pushed past impossible to win the Pacific War. Follow in their footsteps on The Road to Tokyo, a new immersive experience at The National WWII Museum.

#1 Attraction in New Orleans #4 Museum in the United States

504.528.1944 | NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG

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YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

NEW ORLEANS

PUBLISHER Lois Sutton EDITOR Doug Brantley ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION REGIONAL VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES

Courtney Fuhrmann ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Stephanie Cantrell, Shannon Hinton Kern SALES COORDINATOR Heather Goodwin EDITORIAL & DESIGN PROJECT DESIGN LEAD Jennifer Keller Vaz EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Shawn Fink CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Terri Simon Coleman,

Lorin Gaudin, Nora McGunnigle MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

MVP | EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler CHIEF STRATEGY OFFICER Reab Berry CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Dennis Kelly VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS Angela VICE PRESIDENT, INTERNAL BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Karen Rodriguez GENERAL MANAGER, WHERE MAPS

E. Allen

Christopher Huber

DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson NATIONAL MARKETING MANAGER Melissa Blanco MVP | CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson SENIOR REGIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Margaret Martin

DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Isaac Arjonilla CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

IT’S WHY YOU SHOP. Saks Fifth Avenue Allen Edmonds Anthropologie Armani Collezioni BCBGMAXAZRIA Brooks Brothers Donald J Pliner Lululemon Athletica Morton’s The Steakhouse

333 Canal Street

theshopsatcanal

Adeline Tafuri Jurecka

DIRECTOR OF PARTNERSHIPS & NATIONAL DIGITAL SALES Bridget Duffie 706.821.6663 NATIONAL SALES COORDINATOR David Gately MVP | PRODUCTION PUBLICATIONS SERVICES DIRECTOR Kris PUBLICATIONS SERVICES MANAGER

Mickey Kibler

RETOUCH SPECIALIST

MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald Horton TECHNICAL OPERATIONS MANAGER

Tony Thorne-Booth

E-mails for all of the above except contributors: firstname.lastname@morris.com

MVP | NEW ORLEANS

324 Chartres St., 2nd floor, New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 522-6468; (504) 522-0018 (fax) MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS

The Theatres at Canal Place

where traveler.com

504.522.9200

theshopsatcanalplace

Miller

Erik Lewis

Tiffany & Co.

www.theshopsatcanalplace.com

The Shops at Canal Place

MVP | NATIONAL SALES VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL SALES Rick Mollineaux 202.463.4550 VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL MARKETING

CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris

IV

Where® magazine is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901, morrismedianetwork.com. Where magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

Where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited.

MVP is a proud sponsor of Les Clefs d’Or USA

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Ask the Expert YOUR CONCIERGE

Pierre LeBrument Concierge at the Westin Canal Place

Q: You’re originally from France.

A: Born and raised. My first job was at age 13 washing dishes in a little hotel restaurant. Everything was fresh; you went to the fish market in the morning, and cooked what they had. I still cook that way at home.

Q: Name three new restaurants visitors should seek out.

A: Though it’s more newish than new, Shaya (p. 38); chef Shaya is doing wonderful things there. Second would be N7 (p. 38), which is really good, and third, Compère Lapin (p. 28) … or Sac-a-lait (p. 30). Then there’s Paladar 511 (p. 38), Blue Oak BBQ (p.

38)—I’m sorry, there are just so many.

Q: Where would you send guests for classic French fare?

A: For classic French Creole, Arnaud’s (p.

31). The ambiance and food are perfect.

Q: Give a few hot spots for cool cocktails.

A: Arnaud's French 75 (p. 68); those guys know what they’re doing. Also Sylvain (p.

36) and Cure (p. 70). But it really depends on what environment or atmosphere you’re interested in; there are great mixologists all over the city.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©ARNAUD'S

Q: What’s your favorite thing about autumn in New Orleans?

A: It’s so obvious: You can go outside again without having to jump from one airconditioned cab to the next! And you can dine outdoors at places like Bacchanal (p.

37) or Pagoda Café (p. 38), which is great for brunch; you can bring your own bubbles.

Arnaud's French 75

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EDITOR’S ITINERARY DOUG BRANTLEY

vintage CHANEL

CELEBRATING 80 YEARS OF TRAVEL

The Essential New Orleans Hark! The sound of holiday bells is already in the air. November visitors will find hotels decking their halls, the Grinch on stage at the Saenger, Canal Street and City Park all aglow and merchants citywide getting in the spirit of the season. Only 55 shopping days left; start checking off that list.

80 MINUTES IN:

Magazine Street Six miles of prime retailing makes Magazine Street a must-do for visitors and serious shoppers. With dozens of clothing boutiques, art galleries, antiques stores and home décor shops between Felicity and State, “the street of dreams” can run even the most ardent shopper ragged. Thankfully Magazine is also home to great restaurants and cafés. Fuel up for the hunt at Shaya, the James Beard Foundation’s “Best New Restaurant” of 2016, or “Best Chef: South” Justin Devillier’s La Petite Grocery. Sweet tooths will fall for Sucré, while jewelry lovers will swoon over the designs at Mignon Faget and guys will want to indulge in a hot-towel shave at Aidan Gill for Men. Save shopping time by scoping out merchants beforehand at magazinestreet.com.

Get going! Explore the city at wheretraveler.com.

in the world

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Indianapolis, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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Antieau Gallery • New Orleans THE WORK OF CHRIS ROBERTS-ANTIEAU

Detail of “Reflections,” 52.75” x 23”, Fabric Appliqué & Thread Painting

927 ROYAL ST, NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 (504) 304-0849 • www.antieaugallery.com OPEN DAILY 10AM - 8PM Antieau Gallery Uptown Located at 4532 Magazine Street, New Orleans

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WHERE CALENDAR NOVEMBER

For more information: wheretraveler.com

Search the full New Orleans calendar at wheretraveler.com

HOT DATES

TOP STOPS 13 additional entertainment ideas worth entertaining.

CIVIC THEATRE Nov. 2: Straight No Chaser; Nov. 11: Animal Collective. 510 O’Keefe St., 504.272.0865; civicnola.com HISTORIC NEW OR LEANS COLLECTION Nov. 18: Colin Lake Band. 533 Royal St; 504.523.4662 HOUSE OF BLUES Nov. 8: The Record Company; Nov. 12: Bustout Burlesque. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583; hob.com

Dr. Seuss’ How the Grinch Stole Christmas!

“Every Who down in Whoville liked Christmas a lot, but the Grinch, who lived just north of Whoville, did not!” So begins a story that, over the past 50 years, has become a holiday TV classic. In this touring Broadway musical production, the green “Mean One” steps out of the small screen and onto the stage of the Saenger Theatre. With colorful costumes and sets, the show is geared to kids, but also reminds adults of the true spirit of the season. “’Maybe Christmas,’ he thought, ‘doesn’t come from a store. Maybe Christmas, perhaps, means a little bit more.’” 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000

6

Great Things Not to Be Missed

JAZZ IN THE PARK > NOV. 3 This free concert series closes out its 10th season in Armstrong Park at 6:30 pm with “King of Accordion” Dwayne Dopsie and the Zydeco Hellraisers. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets; pufap.org 1

Bianca Del Rio caption here

Bonnie Raitt

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

2 BIANCA DEL RIO > NOV. 4 “The Joan Rivers of the drag world” and season six winner of "RuPaul's Drag Race" returns to her hometown with a new show, “Not Today Satan," at the Mahalia Jackson Theater.

801 N. Rampart St., 800.745.3000

3 BONNIE RAITT > NOV. 5 OK, so she was just here in April playing Jazzfest. But New Orleans can’t get enough of the Rock and Roll Hall of Famer. See why

when she performs at the Saenger Theatre— again. 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000 4 NEW ORLEANS SAINTS > NOV. 13 & 27 The Black and Gold take on the Denver Broncos Nov. 13, before tackling the Los Angeles Rams Nov. 27. Kickoffs are at noon. MercedesBenz Superdome, 1500 Poydras St., 800.745.3000

BAYOU CLASSIC > NOV. 2426 This annual college football matchup is as much a part of local Thanksgiving tradition as turducken. Check out the French Quarter Turkey Day parade and the ”Battle of the Bands & Greek Show.” mybayouclassic.com 5

6 DOLLY PARTON > NOV. 30 Here she comes again. After 25 years the multiple Grammy winner is back on the road and back on stage. Catch the living legend at the Smoothie King Center. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000

ORPHEUM THEATER Nov. 17 & 19: The Planets. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4870; orpheumnola.com SAENGER THEATRE Nov. 3: Lindsay Sterling; Nov. 6: Evanescence; 1111 Canal St., 800.745.3000; saengernola.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Nov. 3: Sia; Nov. 20: Jeff Dunham. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 800.745.3000; smoothiekingcenter.com STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Nov. 5-6, 12-13, 18-20 & 25-27: "Pictures of Marilyn." Nat'l WWII Museum, 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943; stagedoorcanteen.org

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NOVEMBER 22-27:

JOY THEATER Nov. 3: Phantogram; Nov. 12: Tegan and Sara. 1200 Canal St., 800.745.3000; thejoytheater.com

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ASHLEY LONGSHORE

4537 MAGAZINE STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA (504) 333-6951 EMAIL: ASHLEY@ASHLEYLONGSHORE.COM INSTAGRAM: @ASHLEYLONGSHOREART W W W. A S H L E Y L O N G S H O R E . C O M

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where now New Orleans

The city’s top dining, entertainment, attractions and more

LOCAL FLAVOR

Modern Asian, sophisticated Southern, redefined French: the changing face—and taste—of the NOLA food scene.

Alex Harrell’s clams with wildboar sausage at Evangeline

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New Orleans’ New Guard

Clockwise from left: Issac Toups’ stacked pork chops; Coquette’s Stoltzfus and Essig; Mike Gulotta’s shrimp-and-noodle bowl at MoPho; grocer Reggie

Canvassing the city’s contemporary culinary landscape. BY LORIN GAUDIN

(LEFT) ©CHERYL GERBER; (TOP LEFT) ©DENNY CULBERT; (TOP RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK; (CENTER) ©MOPHO; (BOTTOM) ©SHAWN FINK; (OPENING PAGE) ©DENNY CULBERT

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very generation has its food fads, popular chefs, restaurants and favored shopping market or districts that become the guardians of the culinary flame—establishing, forging and maintaining paths that flow forward and back in an everything-old-is-new-again way. Impacting people and businesses across New Orleans’ broad culinary landscape, the “Old Guard,” like gumbo, is composed differently for everyone, and also depends on age and memory.

I’ve lived here almost 40 years, and there are very specific people and places on my list. As I navigate the growing ground of food businesses, I often wonder who is taking root and doing things that will leave an indelible mark on the city in the wake of the likes of Paul Prudhomme, Emeril Lagasse, Binder’s Bakery and Terranova’s Supermarket? Who are the “New Guard,” our food industry leaders forging the next path? That depends on perspective as well.

With crystal ball at hand, here are the places and people I believe will stand the test of time.

WHO: Mike Gulotta, chef/owner of MoPho, a modern Asian-inspired restaurant that pulls from local flavors.

WHY: Gulotta first established himself at the helm of Restaurant August. When he opened MoPho, there were mixed reviews across the board, but he powered through and corrected what he saw needed fixing. He works hard, gets media coverage without the help of a publicist, and is always looking for ways to be better. Gulotta’s hunkered down, shunned expanding too quickly and focused on being in the game for the long haul.

WHO: Isaac Toups, chef/owner of Toups’ Meatery and Toups’ South, both of which are big on Louisiana food vibes and relatable flavors.

WHY: Toups is all about old-school flavors and dishes with modernity but nothing too wacky. He’s

Bellegarde’s Gill

affable and has a personality that made for good TV-watching when he was on “Top Chef.” Some believe he’ll wind up with his own show; it’s possible. More important, he, too, has been thoughtful about expansion, with a stick-toitiveness that smells of success.

WHO: Michael Stoltzfus and Kristen Essig, co-chef/owners of Coquette, a contemporary temple of food, cocktails and connection.

WHY: Both Stoltzfus and Essig are dedicated stewards of local produce and supporters of regional farmers, massively creative and very, very serious about details.

They think outside the box and make dining memorable with specialty menus and theme dinners (like “No Menu Tuesday”) that bring on the clever and leave out the kitsch. Keeping things fresh, fun and delicious, they continue to cement their place in the city.

WHO: Grayson Gill, baker/owner of Bellegarde Bakery, known for its dark-baked breads with sturdy, chewy crusts.

WHY: Tenacity, talent and a staunch refusal to alter his mission of using quality products and Old World techniques. Gill’s commitment to all elements of the bread-baking process—from the growing of the wheat to milling and mixing—sets him apart. So does his product,

which is distinctly different from other local breads. Sticking to his guns, baking the way he wants, Gill has gathered quite a following and is more than on the rise.

WHO: Alex Harrell, chef/owner of Angeline, a smart, elegant French Quarter bistro.

WHY: Harrell is a chef’s chef with vast experience, low-key with quiet intelligence and scads of talent. Embedded in New Orleans’ dining scene, he took the long route to owning his own restaurant, making it well worth the wait. His focus is turning out Southern food with Louisiana love and French sophistication. Angeline exudes longevity with upscale dining that’s comfortable and friendly; a recipe that makes for a restaurant with long legs.

WHO: Simone Reggie, owner/operator of soon-to-open Simone’s Market.

WHY: Reggie has been around the Caption 7 pt, block in the local market/grocer Myriad Pro biz and has incredible connections Semi-bold Sr with area farmers, producers and Medium fl chefs, which is reflected in the products she plans to carry in her store. Simone’s Market is her effort to keep alive the faint remainder of small, locally owned and operated grocers with a personal, old-timey feel and well-curated stock. Reggie’s timing is spot-on and likely to spark the return of more of this kind of business.

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OUT+ABOUT

Holiday Happenings NAPOLEON DYNAMITE

Napoleon Bonaparte never set foot in New Orleans—nor slept at the Napoleon House (though the French Quarter landmark was offered as safe haven for the exiled emperor)—still, his legacy looms large over the city. M.S. Rau Antiques (p. 52) salutes the mythic figure with Napoleon: General.

Emperor. Legend., which opens Nov. 5. The free exhibition spotlights 40 items that explore Napoleon’s influence on art and design during the course of his reign.

Busts and portraits depicting various points in his life are coupled with Napoleonic furnishings (clocks, mirrors, candelabras) and personal items, such as Bonaparte’s laurel leafdecorated footbath and bronze death mask.

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©M.S. RAU ANTIQUES; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

Need a little Christmas right this very minute? Santa may not arrive until Dec. 25, but New Orleans holiday celebrations get underway Nov. 17 at 5 pm with the French Market Tree Lighting Ceremony at Washington Artillery Park, just across from Jackson Square. City Park (p. 56) gets in the spirit Nov. 19 with Jingle Bells and Beer, an annual event geared to big kids that offers craft brews and cuisine by local vendors, along with amusement rides and a sneak peek at Celebration in the Oaks. The massive holiday light display, which covers 25 acres and draws thousands of visitors to the park each year, officially opens Nov. 25 and continues through Jan. 1. The recently revamped Astor Crowne Plaza (p. 87) is ground central for the Canal Street Lighting Ceremony Nov. 22, beginning at 5 pm. Local dignitaries join the Big Guy in throwing the switch on more than a million twinkling lights, while the Grinch tries to upstage the festivities at the nearby Saenger Theatre (p. 14). You’ll also spot St. Nick at the Roosevelt Hotel (p. 87) Nov. 29 at 5:15 pm during the lighting of its block-long Waldorf Wonderland Lobby. ’Tis the season.

Celebration in the Oaks

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WHERE NOW New

Orleans

STYLE WATCH

A Slam Dunk

(TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; (BOTTOM) ©M.S. RAU ANTIQUES; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

“Being 6’10”, it’s really tough to find clothes, even more so luxury fashion,” says New Orleans Pelicans forward/center Anthony Davis, dressed in reinforced-knee sweatpants and a two-tone T from his new line of limited-edition athleisure wear. The Saks Fifth Avenue X Anthony Davis capsule collection currently features 11 items, from neoprene shorts to mixed-media bomber jackets, with more designs in the works. “It’s an honor to be the first athlete to team up with Saks and collaborate on something like this,” says “The Brow,” who plays eight home games this month (for a full lineup, visit nba.com/pelicans). “Athletes get a lot of TV coverage, especially if it’s a big game.

Whether it’s two minutes or a minute and a half, that time is yours to show your fashion to the world.” Saks Fifth Avenue, 301 Canal St., 504.524.2200

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Orleans Hot Dish

FOOD+DRINK

Phoning It In

A cornucopia of fall fruit fritters.

Dining out in New Orleans is amazing; so many places, so many options. And dining out can be a great escape. That said, sometimes there’s nothing better than a picnic at home, a lazy day lie-in or take-out night. New Orleans has heretofore had limited food delivery from big-box outlets or eclectic eateries, with mixed reputations. Even those local restaurants trying their best to offer delivery only go so far, and can attest that delivery service can be a big challenge and expense.

Attempting to increase food and dining options are two newon-the-scene delivery services with smartphone apps (iPhone and Android) promising fast, virtually flawless service to hungry customers, with increased sales to restaurants.

WaitrApp is the brainchild of Lake Charles, La. native Chris Meaux, who developed the idea for his food-delivery app during an idea-sharing event in Florida.

Starting with restaurants in Lake Charles, then adding Lafayette, Baton Rouge and now metro New Orleans, this local company is making a sizeable impression.

As it expands its reach and gets more restaurants and drivers on board, the delivery options get that much more delicious.

Uber, already present in the New Orleans market with its

chauffeur services, has added UberEats, a food-delivery service that functions similarly to the regular Uber application, using its existing (and increasing) driver base and cashless payments. Its mission is to keep things easy and fast, promising delivery of signature dishes from “local favorites in 10 minutes or less” and complete menu options from a roster of restaurant partners averaging 35 minutes from start to finish.

Both apps are easy to use and, depending on which restaurants are within your delivery location (as established by the location service on diners’ phones), can mean feasting from a wide list of places serving pizza, po’boys, sushi, barbecue and more. Log on and dine in; dinner is just a click away. —Lorin Gaudin

MANHATTANJACK The digs may be contemporary, but the baked goods are oldschool: donuts, coconut macaroons, cookies, cakes and, yes, big-as-a-dinner-plate apple fritters.

The lumpy, amoeba-shaped fritters are studded with apples, fried on the dark side, and coated with the standard glaze that cracks and flakes with each bite. Be sure to order an iced mocha (among the city’s best) to sip alongside. 4930 Prytania St., 504.897.5551

and a second fritter to take home.

4701 Freret St., 504.872.9676 BLUE DOT DONUTS Accessible via the Canal streetcar line, this donut shop, founded by three cops (no, that’s not a joke), does nothing but donuts—more than 50 rotating varieties (sweet potato, red velvet, etc.). Of course there’s a warm, full-size apple fritter to devour, but for those not in the mood to make a big commitment, Blue Dot also offers apple fritter “bites.” 4301 Canal St., 504.218.4866 —LG

FRERET STREET PO’BOYS AND DONUTS This homey breakfast and lunch spot specializes in local comfort foods. In the morning it’s all about savory breakfasts (Liver and grits?

Yes, please) and sweet sweets.

Look in the upper right-hand corner of the front case, next to the twists, to find puffed, apple-laced fritters that are only made better with a big cup of steaming coffee

LOUISIANA PURCHASE New Orleans’ food obsession meets do-goodery with Bonfolk socks and limited-edition Ts. “Socks are the most-requested and least-donated article of clothing in shelters,” reads the company’s business brief. “Our mission is to help solve this problem by coming together as a community and giving back to our local ‘bonfolk,’ good family.” For every pair sold, a pair is donated to a shelter for those in need. Found at stores citywide (Dirty Coast [p. 40], Red Arrow Workshop [p. 44]) and at bonfolk.com, the brightly colored socks feature crawfish, oysters, hot sauce, snowballs and other New Orleans icons. The feel-good footwear makes a great gift for yourself … or for friends who fancy food on their feet. —LG

ALL IMAGES ©SHAWN FINK

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HOUMAS HOUSE Plantation and Gardens This holiday season is the perfect time to visit Houmas House Plantation and Gardens. Take a spectacular tour of the original plantation house built in the 1770s, decorated with Christmas cheer. Stroll through 16 acres of breathtaking gardens. Find the perfect presents for loved ones at the gift shop and dine at Houmas House’s exquisite restaurants.

You can also stay overnight in a luxurious room at The Inn at Houmas House. Plan your memorable trip today!

Houmas House Plantation and Gardens 40136 Hwy 942 • Darrow, LA 70725 • 225-473-9380 • www.HoumasHouse.com

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

GIFT GUIDE

Holiday Hits Searching for a standout stocking stuffer, that special something for that special someone? Add a bit of Crescent City charm to your gift-giving this season.

PORTER LYONS That moment. That place.

That person. The coordinate ID bracelet makes the perfect customizable gift. Available in brass, sterling, 24K or rose gold plate. You’ll find it at the Frenchmen Street Art Market, or customize your own at www.porterlyons.com.

ADORN & CONQUER Natural Druzy Stone with nature pressed silver, by local artist Maria Fomich. Adorn & Conquer showcases handmade jewelry and gifts from local and national artists. There’s something unique for everyone, ranging from $10-$400. Jewelry Artists are working in house, stop by and say hello!

Adorn & Conquer, 2727 Prytania St., The Rink, Suite 6, New Orleans, LA 70130 www.adornandconquer.com

QUEORK The cork Duffie bag is perfect for weekend getaways, not to mention its lightweight and even floats! Add a pair of cork Derby shoes and gift giving is solved! These products are designed right here in the French Quarter of New Orleans! 838 Chartres Street, 504-481-4910, www.queork.com

BIJOUNOLA New Designs from some of Poland’s most prestigious artists, starting at $169.00.

635 St. Peter St., 504.529.3001 www.bijounola.com.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

RD HOME RD HOME offers you a selection of contemporary furnishings, home decor, unique gifts, and silk florals. You can let your imagination run wild when you visit RD HOME. It offers a timeless look for contemporary living. It has locally made Nouvelle Candles in a variety of scents.

2014 Magazine Street, Open Monday-Saturday 10am-6pm and Sunday 12pm-5pm. 504-523-9525, www.razzledazzle.com

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION THE SHOP AT THE COLLECTION Remember your time in New Orleans year after year with a keepsake ornament. These hand-blown glass ornaments come in multiple designs, each capturing a different aspect of the city’s colorful culture. Pieces start at $20; item shown is $42. Shipping available.

533 Royal St. Open Tu–Sa, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Su, 10:30 am–4:30 pm. (504) 598-7147. www.hnoc.org/shop.

VINTAGE CHANEL BRACELET Substantial gilt oval link with toggle clasp bracelet hung with seven large iconic Chanel charms. Circa 1986. Made in France. Vintage 329, 329 Royal Street NOLA, 504.525.2262

MAISON ROYALE Maison Royale offers fine art and exquisite jewelry. It is conveniently located in the heart of the French Quarter on the corner of Royal and St. Louis Streets. Stop by for the perfect gift for your loved ones, or treat yourself this holiday season! Opal earrings framed with brown diamonds and pink spinel, crafted in 18-karat blackened gold. $22,500. 501 Royal Street, 504.524.5045

NOLA TIL YA DIE A trusted and favorite brand for locals and visitors alike. They have a great selection of unique apparel and accessories. Be sure to check out their Til Ya Die® collections…new this year!

There’s something for everyone.

Custom orders welcome.

3536 Toulouse St., Mid City, 504.281.4928, nolatilyadie.com

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Holiday Hits

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

SHOE BE DO New Orleans greatest addition, importing shoes from all over the globe. “Curing the world of ugly shoes, one foot at a time.” Shoe Be Do 324 Chartres St. 504.523.7463, ShoeBeDoUSA.com

ART & EYES Art & Eyes carries over 1500 handmade frames, optical and suns, starting from $75. In addition, some of the finest accessory artisans are featured here.

3708 Magazine Street, (504)891-4494, www.Artandeyesnola.com

SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERS “Award Winning Pralines, hand-made with the best ingredients, shipped fresh from the French Quarter”. 334 Decatur St., New Orleans, LA 70130, 504-523-5544, southerncandymakers.com

WEHMEIER’S A family owned business since 1951, based on Al Wehmeier’s signature alligator betls and wallets. Wehmeier’s includes a whole range of exotic and fine leather belts, wallets, bags and accessories. Cowhide rugs and pillows for the home are also offered, in addition to ladies’ furs in season. Representing Lucchese boots. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd Fl., (504) 681-2082, www.wehmeiers.com

QUEORK Queork is based in New Orleans, where we design all of our cork products. We are the only non-import based cork boutique in the USA. Lightweight, Scratch Resistant, Hypoallergenic, Waterproof, Mildew Resistant, Stain Resistant. 838 Chartres Street, 504-481-4910. www.queork.com

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

WILD GIFT IDEA: AUDUBON NATURE INSTITUTE MEMBERSHIP Stuff their stocking with a Membership to Audubon Nature Institute! Membership is the gift that lasts all year. Purchase online with code HOLIDAY16 and give 13 months for the price of 12.

AudubonNatureInstitute.org

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION THE SHOP AT THE COLLECTION Carry a piece of New Orleans wherever you go with zipper bags from local artist Jill Shampine Hruska. Each cotton bag features maps and street scenes made from the artist’s own photographs or vintage items.

Pieces start at $12; items shown are $20-$30.

Shipping available. 533 Royal St. Open Tu–Sa, 9:30 am–4:30 pm, and Su, 10:30 am–4:30 pm.

(504) 598-7147. www.hnoc.org/shop.

VINTAGE 329 Specializing in vintage barware like these Culver Prado design with 22kt gold overlay “low ball” or “rocks” glasses. 329 Royal Street, (504) 525-2262

FLEUR D’ORLEANS The Designers at Fleur d’ Orleans have created hundreds of jewelry and gift designs inspired by the architectural treasures of New Orleans. At the heart of the French Quarter the Cabildo (1795) was the seat of government during the colonial period. These unique earrings, inspired by a wrought iron balustrade on the Cabildo, celebrate New Orleans’ design heritage and history. 14KT gold plated earrings $50. Visit Fleur d’Orleans in the Quarter or on Magazine Street: 818 Chartres / 3701a Magazine 504.899.5585 / 504.475.5254

JACI BLUE At Jaci Blue, you’ll find gorgeous, fashion-forward clothing handpicked to flatter women sizes 12 and up. This Karen Kane soft sweater knit top with a drapey cowl neckline is perfect for any cozy holiday festivity. $89 available in sizes 0X-3X. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929, www.jaciblue.com

BEVOLO GAS AND ELECTRIC LIGHTS The Pool house Governor, from Bevolo is a designer’s dream. Fill the Holiday with a soft, romantic glow, or display wine corks, seashells, or flowers. Antique Copper or Stainless. 316/318 Royal St. French Quarter, 504.522.9485, Bevolo.com

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the guide Dining November Eat Up, Y’all Food fans are in for a triple treat this month. Celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse gets things cooking Nov. 4 with Boudin, Bourbon and Beer at Champions Square. More than 50 leading local and national chefs serve up takes on Louisiana’s signature sausage, while live bands perform. The following evening Lagasse and Sunny Anderson (“The Kitchen”) cohost Carnivale du Vin at the Hyatt Regency. The Nov. 5 black-tie gala includes a five-course dinner by Lagasse and his chefs de cuisine. Gumbo lovers get their fill Nov. 12-13 during the Tremé Creole Gumbo Festival at Armstrong Park, where a dozen vendors are backed by a dozen live acts, including the Grammywinning Rebirth Brass Band. boudinbourbonandbeer.com; carnivaleduvin.com; jazzandheritage.org/treme-gumbo

THE AMERICAN SECTOR American. A nostalgic

homage to wartime classics with gourmet twists, the menu at this National WWII Museum eatery features such kicked-up throwbacks as “Victory Garden” salads, open-face pot roast sandwiches and s’mores pie. $ L, D (daily). www.nationalww2museum.org/american-sector. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1940. Map 3, B6 BALISE French. Chef Justin Devillier of La Petite

Grocery and “Top Chef” fame now has a second space in a beautifully restored 1830s building with cool art, smart cocktails and a small menu with depth. Must-haves include the long-stemmed broccoli with tangy sauce gribiche and roasted grouper with watermelon radish and black trumpet mushrooms. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.balisenola.com. 640 Carondelet St., 504.459.4449. Map 3, C5 BORGNE Seafood. At this seafood-centric John

Besh restaurant (helmed by mega-talented chef Brian Landry), fantastic apps (such as duck-andjalapeno poppers) partner swimmingly with

easy-going sandwiches, fish cooked “in a bag” and more. $$ L, D (daily). www.borgnerestaurant. com. 601 Loyola Ave. (in the Hyatt Regency Hotel), 504.613.3860. Map 3, C3 CAFÉ ADELAIDE Louisiana. Chef Meg Bickford

helms the kitchen at this bistro spinoff of Commander’s Palace in the Loews Hotel. Bickford serves up playful takes on modern Creole cuisine.

Try the oyster and pork belly po’ boy. B (daily), L (MF), D (M-Su). www.cafeadelaide.com. 300 Poydras St., 504.595.3305. Map 3, D6 CHOPHOUSE NEW ORLEANS Steaks. Forget the

standard sauces and heavy sides; the focus at this upscale-casual steakhouse is on its top-quality, USDA prime-only meats. An uncomplicated menu, easygoing atmosphere and live entertainment make Chophouse a cut above. $$$ D (nightly). www.chophousenola.com. 322 Magazine St., 504.522.7902. Map 3, D5 COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be

“better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on simple standards, such as deepfried hog head cheese with field peas or rabbit and dumplings. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers

sandwiches and house-cured meats. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.cochonrestaurant.com. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7 COMPANY BURGERAmerican. Adam Biderman’s

award-winning burger joint sticks to the basics, which makes it all the better. Hand-ground beef, turkey or lamb patties topped with American cheese; house-made mayo and pickles; freshbaked buns. Add a side of hand-cut, twice-cooked fries...and dig in. $ L, D (daily). www.thecompanyburger.com. L, D (daily). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.309.9422. Map 3, C4; L, D (W-M). 4600 Freret St., 504.267.0320. Map 1, D3 COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Luicia,

chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as conch croquettes, roasted jerk corn and curried goat with plantain gnocchi. For dessert? A horchata panna cotta with compressed melon, of course. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.comperelapin.com. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6 CRAZY LOBSTER Seafood. Huge buckets of

steamed seafood is the draw at this riverfront restaurant, where the lobster never runs out, the rest of the crowd can dig into some spicy Cajun fare

©JOYCE BRACEY/NOCVB

Central Business/ Warehouse District

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DINING

EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship

and you can all while away an afternoon watching the ships sail by. $$ L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the river, across from Harrah’s), 504.569.3380. Map 3, E7 DOMENICA Italian. Inspired by traditional Sunday

Italian family feasts (hence its name), this hot spot is counted among celebrated local chef John Besh’s growing family of restaurants. Dive into out-of-thenorm antipasta, handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as lasagne Bolonese. $$ L, D (daily); brunch (Sa-Su). www.domenicarestaurant.com. 123 Baronne St. (in the Roosevelt Hotel), 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3

sets the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, this is where the celebrated chef created many of his classic dishes, including barbecued shrimp, andouille-crusted drum, banana cream pie and more. $$$ L (M-F), D (daily). www.emerils.com.

800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6 GRAND ISLE Seafood. This comfy seafood house

boasts such standouts as crab-and-brie handpies, crispy calamari, fisherman’s stew and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the oyster bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer served from taps encased in ice. $$ L, D (daily). www.

grandislerestaurant.com. 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6 GRILL ROOM Contemporary. The Mobile four-star

fine dining room at the Windsor Court Hotel is a favorite of both locals and visitors. Refined yet relaxed, the Grill Room features innovative American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and local ingredients. Excellent wine program. $$$ B, L, D (daily); brunch (Su). www.windsorcourthotel.com.

300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994. Map 3, D6 HERBSAINT French. James Beard Award-winning

chef Donald Link’s entrées range from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.herbsaint.com.

701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5 JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Pork belly tacos,

squash blossom quesadillas, lamb enchiladas, blue crab toastadas—this isn’t your standard taqueria fare. Celebrity chefs (and old friends) John Besh and Aarón Sánchez teamed to create this hip eatery, which puts contemporary spins on authentic Mexican cuisine. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www. johnnysanchezrestaurant.com. 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4 JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace

“Best Steakhouses in the U.S.” Travel & Leisure

Champions of our League

A Local Steakhouse, Nationally Recognized “Top 12 Steakhouses in America” Playboy

Hotel eatery, snapper crudo with browned butter dances elegantly between raw and cooked, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. The “Peanut Butter Pie Budino” is a must for dessert. $$ B (M-F); L, D (daily); Sa-Su, brunch. www.josephineestelle.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5 MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s new casual

dining venue is reflective of the celebrity chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Japanese-style barbecue to pork rib tamales. $$ L, D (daily). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6 MULATE’S Cajun. A family friendly restaurant

where the Cajun food (dark-roux gumbos, fried alligator, catfish smothered in crawfish etouffée) is only one of the highlights. Two-step to live music nightly. Also available for private functions. $ L, D (daily). www.mulates.com. 201 Julia St., 504.522.1492. Map 3, C7 PÊCHE Seafood. Donald Link and Stephen Stryjew-

“50 States, 50 Steaks” Zagat “Top 10 US Steakhouses” USA Today

ski (the award-winning team behind pork-centric Cochon) have another winner on their hands.

The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole grilled fish, you can’t go wrong. $$ L, D (M-Sa). www.pecherestaurant.com. 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6 POPPY’S TIME OUT SPORTS BAR & GRILL American. Sports fans will score here. Along with gour-

met burgers, personalized pizzas and a variety of wings, this riverside restaurant and bar features 22 beers on tap (including a full line of locally made Abita brews), live music and big-screen TVs. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.thecrazylobster.com. Spanish Plaza (Poydras St. at the Mississippi River across from Harrah’s Casino), 504.247.9265. Map 3, E7 RED GRAVY Italian. In New Orleans “red gravy”

www.DickieBrennansSteakhouse.com 716 Iberville St.

504.522.2467

refers to marinara sauce, and at this cozy restaurant, you’ll find rustic Italian specialties such as handmade pasta and homemade meatballs. A farm-to-table restaurant, Red Gravy supports local w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 29

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THE GUIDE

Guidelines

St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

TOMMY G’S PIZZERIA & BAR Italian. Convenient

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 85-87.

WILLA JEAN BAKERY Bakery. Pastry chefs Lisa

RESTAURANT HOURS, ETC. Hours: Call for exact hours of operation. General meal information is indicated by B (breakfast), L (lunch), and D (dinner). Restaurants that never close are labeled 24h.

Price ranges: Price ranges in each listing are based on the cost of a typical dinner entrée without appetizer. Lunches are generally less expensive: $ = Inexpensive (under $15) $$ = Moderate ($15$25) $$$ = Expensive (over $25).

to the Convention Center, this casual spot serves subs, a variety of pasta entrees, house-made lasagna, calzones and pizza whole or by the slice. $ L, D, (daily). www.tommygspizzeria.com. 901 Convention Center Blvd., 504.561.8881. Map 3, C8 White and Kelly Fields, known for their beautiful baked goods, show off their savory sides as well in dishes such as corn-and-crab fritters and lamb

pot pie. Need a biscuit? This is the place. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.willajean.com. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4

Central City DRYADES PUBLIC MARKET Eclectic. With its local

vendors and crystal chandeliers, this Central City newcomer merges down-home with up-market.

The soaring space serves as both a grocery/gathering spot for area residents and a destination for visitors hungry for a taste of the contemporary Crescent City. 1307 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.333.6100. Map 1, D3

Index Central Business/Warehouse District....................................28

Central City..................................................................................................30 French Quarter.........................................................................................31 Garden District/Lower Garden District ............................ 36 Marigny/Bywater............................................................................ .......37 Mid-City..........................................................................................................38 Uptown..........................................................................................................38

farmers, fishers and bakers. Come for the Sicilian egg pie at brunch or hand-filled ravioli at dinner. $$ Brunch (daily); D (Th-Sa). www.redgravycafe.com.

125 Camp St., 504.561.8844. Map 3, E5 RESTAURANT AUGUST French. In New Orleans,

chefs are as famous as rock stars, and John Besh is the city’s culinary Sting. He knows the classics, he’s bold in his experimentation and he’s got a vision.

The dining rooms are elegant, and the food is spectacular, as Besh combines European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly). www. restaurantaugust.com. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5 SACALAIT Louisiana. Chefs Cody and Samantha

Carroll bring country dishes with a city spin. Proof: a mildly wild-tasting turtle boudin over duck-egg risotto with sherry sauce piquant, frog leg-and-alligator gumbo with potato salad or slate-blackened redfish with shrimp dirty rice. $$$ L (F), D (Tu-Su). www.sac-a-laitrestaurant.com. 1051 Annunciation St., 504.324.3658. Map 3, B7 SEAWORTHYSeafood. This chic offshoot of New

York’s award-winning Grand Banks oyster bar cast a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. Caviar, creative cocktails and a wide wine selection round out the menu. $$ D (daily). www.seaworthynola.com. 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5 ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St.

James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. $ L (M-Su), D (M-Sa). www.stjamescheese.com. 641 Tchoupitoulas

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DINING

MAÏS AREPAS Latin. An upscale Creole-Colombian

restaurant that puts overstuffed filled corn pockets (arepas) front and center, the best of which is loaded with sweet plantains, skirt steak and melted Oaxaca cheese. $$ L (Tu-Sa), D (Tu-Su). 1200 Carondelet St., 504.523.6247. Map 3, A5 TOUPS’ SOUTHSouthern. Chef Isaac Toups serves

up museum-quality Southern cuisine at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum’s in-house eatery.

Homey fare, such as biscuits with crab fat, goat tamales and fried pork chops offer a taste of the region’s delicious diversity. $$ L, D (M, W-Sa); Su brunch. www.toupssouth.com. 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.304.2147. Map 1, D3

French Quarter ACME OYSTER HOUSE Seafood. For locals, the

name Acme is synonymous with raw oysters. Since 1910, Acme’s signature marble-topped bar has served up countless bivalves on the half shell.

Other regional specialties include fried oyster po’ boys, gumbo Poopa and jambalaya. $$ L, D (daily). www.acmeoyster.com. 724 Iberville St., 504.522.5973. Map 3, E4; 3000 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.309.4056. Map 1, C2; 8 Canal St. (inside Harrah’s Casino), 504.708.2409. Map 3, E6 ANGELINESouthern. Chef Alex Harrell’s Alabama

upbringing informs the menu at his casually elegant eatery. Consider the black-eyed pea and collard green soup, butterbean tortellini with redeye gravy and double-chocolate Chess pie with bourbon Chantilly cream. $$$ B (M-Th), D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.angelinenola.com. 1032 Chartres St., 504.308.3106. Map 3, H4 ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s

is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. $$$ L, D (M-Sa); Su jazz brunch.

Antoine’s Annex (513 Royal St.) serves ice cream, pastries and light fare daily. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4 ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining

rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm.

Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brulot are three of the many famous dishes. $$$ D (daily); Su jazz brunch. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 BAYONA American. Bayona continues its reign

as one of the city’s best restaurants. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and that nonpareil garlic soup. $$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa). www.bayona.com. 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3 BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to

Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides—don’t miss the redfish on the half shell with jumbo lump crab or the bourbon-glazed shrimp, a unique twist on the classic barbecued version. $$ L, D (daily). www.bourbonhouse.com.

144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4 BRENNAN’S Creole. Breakfast at Brennan’s is

back on the New Orleans menu. Now under the w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 31

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helm of new owner Ralph Brennan and executive chef Slade Rushing, the legendary eatery continues more than six decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. $$$ B, L, D (Tu-Su). www.brennansneworleans.com. 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4 BROUSSARD’S Creole. Established in 1920,

Broussard’s remains one of the city’s premier fine dining spots. Chef Neal Swindler serves up modern Creole cuisine (crab croquettes with mango glaze), along with Old World classics. Tradition never tasted so good. $$$ L (F), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ AMELIE Louisiana. Located in a gorgeous

French Quarter courtyard and carriage house, this is the perfect spot for a leisurely outdoor lunch or romantic dinner. Try the crab cakes with citrus drizzle, satsuma-pepper glazed shrimp or a seasonal cocktail. $$ L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Su brunch. A quickservice offshoot, Petite Amelie, offers takeout just next door (900 Royal St., 412-8065). www.cafeamelie.com. 912 Royal St., 504.412.8965. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Light fare, café drinks, and

delicious beignets are the draw at these comfy French Quarter coffeehouses. Traditional jazz performances at the Bourbon Street location daily, beginning at 8 am. www.cafebeignet.com. $ B, L, D (daily). 311 Bourbon St., 504.525.2611. Map 3, F4; B, L, D (daily) 334-B Royal St., 504.524.5530. Map 3, F4 CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. No visit to the Crescent

City is complete without a stop at Café Du Monde, in operation since 1862. On the menu: café au lait (made with ground chicory root) and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. $ 24h (daily). www.cafedumonde.com. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5 CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restau-

rant provides a taste of the tropics and the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu in dishes such as deep-fried ribs with papaya chutney. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); brunch, Sa-Su. www.caneandtablenola.com. 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5 CENTRAL GROCERY Deli. This Italian deli-grocery

is a shrine to old New Orleans, and is the place to acquaint yourself with the classic muffuletta sandwich: layers of provolone cheese, olive salad, pickled vegetables, mortadella, salami and ham. $ L (Tu-Sa). 923 Decatur St., 504.523.1620. Map 3, H5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French

Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, make for a memorable dining experience. $$ L, D (daily). www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The

French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the baby back ribs, crabmeat-stuffed shrimp and fresh grilled redfish with soft-shell crab. Live jazz nightly (no cover). $$ L, D (daily). www.crescentcitybrewhouse. com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5 CRIOLLO Louisiana. Spanish for “Creole,” Criollo’s

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ingredients, reflecting the blending of cultures that form the foundation of Crescent City dining.

The evidence is found in such dishes as sugarcanemarinated pork tenderloin and crawfish flatbread with eggplant caviar. $$$ B, L, D (daily). www.criollonola.com. 214 Royal St. (in the Hotel Monteleone), 504.681.4444. Map 1, E4 CROISSANT D’OR PATISSERIE Bakery. Abandon

all hope of counting calories, ye who enter here.

This venerable pastry shop produces a stunning array of buttery croissants, fresh fruit danishes and any number of dreamy creations devised from storehouses of chocolate, cream and magic.

Savory dishes are also available, along with a variety of coffees. $ B, L (W-M). 617 Ursuline Ave., 504.524.4663. Map 3, H4 DESIRE OYSTER BAR Louisiana. In addition to its

trademark oysters on the half shell, this Bourbon Street bistro serves up Belgian waffles, po’ boys, burgers and entrées such as crawfish etouffeé and shrimp and grits. $ B, L, D (daily). www.sonesta. com. 300 Bourbon St. (in the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.586.0300. Map 3, F4 DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An

upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces (try the barbecue ribeye topped with Abita-beer shrimp or the filet with flash-fried oysters). Featured by Maxim as one the nation’s 10 best steakhouses as well as in the Wall Street Journal. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www. dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com. 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4 DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steak-

THE

PELICAN CLUB Restaurant & Bar “Their food is marked by a consistent search for excellence in preparing the finest fresh ingredients with superior skill and finesse.”

IN THE FRENCH QUARTER ON EXCHANGE ALLEY (504) 523-1504 PELICANCLUB.COM

house and butcher shop featuring superior quality dry-aged meats. A full remodel of the historic space is alone worth a visit, though the hungerinducing menu also impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. $$$ D (nightly). www.dorismetropolitan.com.

620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4 EL LIBRE Cuban. Of course there are rum-based

cocktails and sturdy-sweet coffee on the menu at this tiny Cuban café, but there’s also day-long food in the guise of pressed sandwiches. The signature “Cubano” is best capped off with “Drunken Tres Leches Cake” for dessert. $ B, L, D (W-M). www.ellibrenola.com. 508 Dumaine St., 504.309.2699. Map 3, H5 GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s

has been a gravity center of New Orleans, where political careers are made, engagements pledged, rumors spread and business deals won and lost. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.galatoires.com. 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GALATOIRE’S 33 BAR & STEAK Steaks. This

modern-day steakhouse adds a new chapter to Galatoire’s century-old story. Craft cocktails and USDA prime cuts are the focus, along with beef Wellington, lobster Thermidor and classic sides.

The handsome space also features an elegantly appointed bar and private dining rooms. $$ L (F), D (nightly). www.galatoires33barandsteak.com. 215 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4 GUMBO SHOP Creole. Housed in a circa-1794

building, the Gumbo Shop features traditional and contemporary Creole cuisine, including several types of gumbos, etouffée, jambalaya and other Louisiana favorites. A variety of fresh fish, from w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 33

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amberjack to tuna, is offered, as are more than 30 wines by the glass. $ L, D (daily). www.gumboshop. com. 630 St. Peter St., 504.525.1486. Map 3, G4 GW FINS Seafood. Chef Tenney Flynn has

taken the local obsession with seafood to global heights: fresh fish is flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. $$ D (nightly). www.gwfins.com. 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4 HARD ROCK CAFÉ American. This popular chain,

filled with music memorabilia, serves regional and American fare, including steaks, burgers, sandwiches and wings. Among the 100-plus items on display are Louis Armstrong’s trumpet and Fats Domino’s autographed piano top. $ L, D (daily). www.hardrockcafe.com. 125 Bourbon St., 504.529.5617. Map 3, F4 KPAUL’S LOUISIANA KITCHEN Louisiana. Chef-

personality Paul Prudhomme was one of the first to introduce Cajun cuisine to a global audience. His Chartres Street restaurant is an ideal spot to sample some K-Paul classics, including okra gumbo, jambalaya, bronzed swordfish and blackened beef tenders. $ Deli L (Th-Sa), $$$ D (M-Sa). www.kpauls.com. 416 Chartres St., 504.596.2530. Map 3, F4 KILLER PO’BOYS Contemporary. This tiny hole-in-

the-wall has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chef-crafted” takes on the standard po’boy. The Dark & Stormy (rum-braised pork belly with lime-infused slaw) alone is worth a visit. $ Dauphine St.: B, L (W-M); Conti St.: L, D (W-M). www.killerpoboys.com. 219 Dauphine St., 504.462.2731. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St., 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4 KINGFISH Louisiana. “New Louisiana” is the

concept at this popular spot, with creative spins on local standards such as fried deviled duck eggs on arugula with candy-pecan vinaigrette and cochon de lait with cracklin-crusted boudin cake. $$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa- Su). www.kingfishneworleans.com. 337 Chartres St., 504.598.5005. Map 3, F4 KRYSTAL American. Since 1932 Krystal has been

satisfying big appetites with its small, square burgers, making it the oldest quick-service chain in the Southeast. $ 24h (daily). www.krystal.com. 116 Bourbon St., 504.523.4030. Map 3, E4 LATITUDE 29 Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru

Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s seriously cool, newschool tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Island flurishes, brilliant bartenders and chefs with a strong local following make this one a winner. $$ (L, D) Tu-Su. www.latitude29nola. com. 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5 MORTON’S Steaks. Located just steps from the

French Quarter, this renowned steakhouse holds as much character as the world-famous destination itself. With its USDA prime-aged beef, succulent seafood and infinite wine selection, Morton’s is the perfect destination for an unparalleled dining experience. $$$ D (nightly). www.mortons. com. 365 Canal St. (in the Shops at Canal Place), 504.566.0221. Map 3, E5 MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Bustling Mr. B’s is

another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual power-lunch scene. Must-tries include the barbecued shrimp, 34 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2016

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bread pudding in Irish whiskey sauce. $$ L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Su jazz brunch. www.mrbsbistro.com. 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4 NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never

slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves soups, seafood gumbo, salads, sandwiches and warm muffulettas; the bar serves its famous Pimm’s Cups. $ L (M-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS CREOLE COOKERY Creole.

Creole standards (gumbo, shrimp Creole) are coupled with fresh fish, fried seafood, chargrilled oysters and a raw bar. $$ L, D (daily). www. neworleanscreolecookery.com. 510 Toulouse St., 504.524.9632. Map 3, G5 NINE ROSES CAFÉVietnamese. The Westbank

Vietnamese food haven now offers a smaller French Quarter location. An edited version of its giant menu features such signature dishes as pho, banh mi sandwiches, rice plates, noodle bowls and springrolls. $ L, D (M-Sa). 620 Conti St., 504.324.9450. Map 3, F4 NOLA American. Emeril Lagasse’s French Quarter

bistro is a perennial hot spot. The menu is filled with Emeril creations such as Louisiana crab cakes with Creole tartar sauce, pork cheek boudin balls with tomato-bacon jam and a grilled double-cut pork chop with pecan-glazed sweet potatoes. $$ L (Th-M), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 534 St. Louis St., 504.522.6652. Map 3, F5 OLE SAINT KITCHEN & TAP Louisiana. At former

Saints running back Deuce McAllister’s eatery diners score New Orleans classics (such as oyster stew and soft-shell crab sandwiches), along with 50-plus beers on tap and an additional 40 offered by the bottle. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.olesaint.com. 132 Royal St., 504.309.4797. Map 3, E4 PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restau-

rant empire, the Palace offers a sweeping view of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake, andouille-crusted Gulf fish and white chocolate bread pudding. $$ B, L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Sa-Su jazz brunch. www.palacecafe.com.

605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4 PELICAN CLUB Louisiana. A well-kept secret of sav-

vy gourmets. Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors.

The seared tuna with Gulf shrimp is excellent, as are the roasted baby lamb rack, filet of tenderloin with wild mushroom sauce. Try the seafood martini appetizer. $$ D (daily). www.pelicanclub.com. 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4 RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain?

Not here. The hickory-grilled redfish topped with crab or crawfish is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, doublechocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. $$ L, D (daily). www.redfishgrill.com. 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4 REMOULADE Louisiana. Arnaud’s operates this

très casual bistro spin-off of its adjacent restaurant, serving favorites such as po’ boys, spicy boiled seafood and jambalaya. The young waiters may wear T-shirts, but much of the food is surprisingly sophisticated; try the turtle soup, shrimp remoulade or oysters from the raw bar. $ L, D (daily). www.remoulade.com. 309 Bourbon St., 504.523.0377. Map 3, F4 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 35

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RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Louisiana. Famed

chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed, while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. $$$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www. revolutionnola.com. 777 Bienville St. (inside the Royal Sonesta Hotel), 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4 SALON BY SUCRÉ Eclectic. Pastry chef extraordi-

naire Tariq Hanna’s homage to haute cuisine is a reflection of his passion for presentation of dishes both savory and sweet. Upstairs is the place for afternoon tea, a glass of wine and daily protein selections that can be ordered as an app or main course.

Downstairs it’s all about Hanna’s amazing desserts. $$ Brunch, D (Th-M). www.restaurantsalon.com.

622 Conti St., 504.267.7098. Map 3, F4 SOBOU Contemporary. The focus at this “south

of Bourbon” hot spot is on creative cocktails and chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez’s amazing selection of small plates (order the shrimp-and-tasso pinchos with grilled pineapple). $$ B, L, D (daily). www.sobounola.com. 310 Chartres St. (in the “W” French Quarter), 504.552.4095. Map 3, E4 STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance

meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the Korean beef po’ boy, while Reuben sandwiches, corned beef hash and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. $$ B, L, D (daily). www.stanleyrestaurant.com.

547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4 SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers

dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastro pub just off Jackson Square, as diners sip on handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as “Chick Syl-vain” sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. $$ D (nightly); brunch (F-Su). www.sylvainnola.com. 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4 TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit

Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes by chef Gus Martin. $$ B (M-F), L (daily), D (nightly); brunch (SaSu). www.tableaufrenchquarter.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4

Garden District/ Lower Garden District CARIBBEAN ROOM Eclectic. This Garden District

gem, shuttered since the 1990s, was recently reopened with chef Chris Lusk at the helm. Like the décor, the menu melds old and new, with longpopular favorites like Mile High Pie joining modern additions, such as wagyu beef and beet tartare.

Jackets required; jeans discouraged. $$$ L (F), D (daily); Su brunch. www.thecaribbeanroom.com.

2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3 COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. This beloved

turquoise palace is a shrine for food worshippers.

Chef Tory McPhail carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in a courtly atmosphere. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). www. commanderspalace.com. 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4 COQUETTE French. What do you get when you

mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian

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334 Royal St

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311 Bourbon St 8:00am-Midnight

and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stellar with standouts like fried chicken and the must-have crab cakes making repeat appearances. $$$ L (W-Sa), D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.coquettenola.com. 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4

Photo: Kaela Rodehorst Williams

EMERIL’S DELMONICO Creole. Located on the St.

Charles streetcar line, this elegant circa-1895 restaurant now serves chef Emeril Lagasse’s modern takes on Creole classics. Start with the house-made charcuterie, before moving on to dry-aged steaks, shrimp Bordelaise or reinvented drum meunière. $$$ L (F), D (nightly). www.emerils.com. 1300 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.4937. Map 1, D3 JUAN’S FLYING BURRITO Mexican. Can a Mexican

joint be both funky and family friendly? Uh, yes, if it’s called Juan’s, where the jerk chicken and mango salad is almost a spiritual experience, and the “Gutter Punk” burrito will turn you into a regular customer. $ L, D (daily). www.juansflyingburrito. com. 2018 Magazine St., 504.569.0000. Map 1, D4; 515 Baronne St., 504.529.5825. Map 3, C4; 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.9950. Map 1, D3 MIYAKO SUSHI BAR & HIBACHI Japanese. Hibachis

Beignets, Coffees, breakfast & lunch menus, with “Local Libations” at the Bourbon Street location!

www.cafebeignet.com

are the draw here, but sushi lovers will be just as happy. Dexterous hibachi chefs wow guests, preparing lobster, prime rib, scallops and more.

Sushi, sashimi and tempura are also on the menu. $$ L (Su-F), D (nightly). www.miyakonola.com. 1403 St. Charles Ave., 504.410.9997. Map 1, D3 ROOT/SQUARE ROOT Contemporary. Two hip

restaurants in one. Upstairs the focus is on chef Phillip Lopez’s contemporary twists on culinary standards and creative charcuterie. Downstairs centers around 16 seats flanking an open kitchen and Lopez’s multi-course tasting menu (online reservations only). $$$ D (Tu-Sa). www.squarerootnola. com. 1800 Magazine St., 504.309.7800. Map 1, D4 SUCRÉ Dessert. This chic spot is worth a visit for

the décor alone. But while you’re there, might as well try some of the elegant chocolates, house-made gelato and must-have macarons. $ Open daily. www.shopsucre.com. 3025 Magazine St., 504.520.8311. Map 1, D4; 622 Conti. St., 504.708.4366. Map 3, F4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.834.2299. Map 1, C2

Marigny/Bywater BACCHANAL Eclectic. A Sunday-only treasure no

more. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is now a full-blown restaurant. Chef Joaquin Rodas serves up “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard.

Upstairs offers indoor seating and a full bar. $$ L, D (daily). www.bacchanalwine.com. 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3 CAFÉ HENRIAmerican. The menu at this casual

corner café is smartly small and neat, the cocktails are cool and the vibe is easy. Start with a traditional iceberg wedge salad, then slip into a buttered soba noodle dish with lump crab meat, or “surf and turf” with the fried oysters and beef carpaccio. $$ L, D (daily). 800 Louisa St., no phone. Map 1, E3

Enjoy an afternoon drink in our courtyard.

510 Toulouse St. | NEWORLEANSCREOLECOOKERY.COM

THE FRANKLIN Contemporary. This handsome

small-plates restaurant is a fine addition to the Marigny dining scene. The food is both pretty and full-flavored, with creative dishes such as Jamaican jerk quail and crispy sweetbreads with crab, spinach and champagne buerre blanc. $$ D (nightly); Su w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 37

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brunch. www.thefranklinnola.com. 2600 Dauphine St., 504.267.0640. Map 1, E3 THE JOINT Barbecue. This funky Bywater fave

is slim on frills but big on slow-cooked barbecue (pulled pork, beef brisket, juicy ribs) and generous sides. Featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. $ L, D (M-Sa). www.alwayssmokin.com. 701 Mazant St., 504.949.3232. Map 1, E3 MARIZA Italian. Chef/owner Ian Schnoebelen’s

cozy-chic Italian-inspired space in the trendy Rice Mill Lofts. Try the goat-ricotta bruschetta, yellowfin tuna carpaccio or black linguini with shrimp and crab. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.marizaneworleans.com.

2900 Chartres St., 504.598.5700. Map 1, E3 N7 French. Counted among the nation’s Top 10

new restaurants by Bon Appetit, this quiet, tuckedaway bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. The menu is divided into plated dishes (steamed mussels, hangar steak with crushed potatoes) and specialty tinned seafood. A lovely wine list, great music and fine service equate to total charm. $$ D (M-Sa). 1117 Montegut St., no phone. Map 1, E3 NEW ORLEANS CAKE CAFÉ & BAKERY Dessert.

Steven “the Cake Man” Himelfarb offers breakfast and lunch at his charming Bywater café, but it’s cake that’s the beloved baker’s calling card.

Bananas Foster with banana icing, classic red velvet—yummy. $$ B, L (W-M). www.nolacakes.com.

2440 Chartres St., 504.943.0010. Map 3, K6 OXALIS Contemporary. While the bar at this cool,

rambling space focuses heavily on whiskey, the kitchen is “bar forward,” turning out small plates of house-made charcuterie, Korean-style chicken wings and a variety of veggie options. $ D (nightly); Su brunch. www.oxalisbywater.com. 3162 Dauphine St., 504.267.4776. Map 1, E3 PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking

New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads and fish left au natural. Pizzas, smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like, take center stage on the menu. $$ D (W-M); brunch (Sa-Su). www.paladar511.com. 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5 PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian. This pop-up pizzeria

grew so popular that it now has its own bricksand-mortar space. New York-style pies with an ever-changing array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. $$ L, D (Tu-Su). www.pizzadelcious.com. 617 Piety St.,, 504.676.8482. Map 1, E3 PRALINE CONNECTION Creole. Soul food at

its best, including the Connection platter (fried pickles, okra, and chicken liver), red beans ’n’ rice, pork chops, seafood platters and three kinds of greens. $ L, D (daily). www.pralineconnection.com.

542 Frenchmen St., 504.943.3934. Map 3, J5 PRESS STREET STATION Eclectic. This restaurant

project supporting the New Orleans Center for Creative Arts offers dishes from the school’s culinary students. Sweet potato brioche French toast, duck confit with blueberry reduction, grilled Gulf fish; try the fresh veggies from the student-run garden. $ Brunch, D (Th-Tu); Su jazz brunch. www.pressstreetstation.com. 5 Press St., 504.249.5622. Map 1, E3 ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this

long-shuttered marketplace recently received a massive makeover while retaining its historic

character and 24 steel columns. The stunning space features 13 food vendors, along with a bar and both indoor and outdoor dining. $ L, D (daily). www.strochmarket.com. 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.609.3813. Map 1, E3 THREE MUSES Eclectic. This Frenchmen Street hot

spot offers a clubby vibe, live music, smart cocktails and amazing eats. Raves are drawn for the menu’s variety and chef Daniel Esses’ stellar preparations of small plate-portioned lamb slider and seasonal eggrolls. $ D (W-M). www.3musesnola. com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5

Mid-City BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Ronnie Evans and Philip

Moseley draw raves for their crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spare ribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. When the bbq pork egg rolls make an appearance on the menu get them. $ L, D (Tu-Su). www.blueoakbbq.com. 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3 CAFÉ NOMA Contemporary. Located within the

New Orleans Museum of Art, Ralph Brennan’s contemporary bistro offers an artful mix of small plates, soups, salads and sandwiches. $ L (Tu-Su), D (F). www.cafenoma.com. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.482.1264. Map 1, D2 DOOKY CHASE Creole. One of the oldest African-

American restaurants in the nation. Chef Leah Chase, “the Queen of Creole Cuisine,” has built a large and loyal following with classic dishes, such as her seemingly simple red beans and rice, steaming gumbo and crispy-yet-tender fried chicken. $$ L (Tu-F), D (F). www.dookychaserestaurant. com. 2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3 MOPHO Vietnamese. Chef Mike Gulotta rocks

modern Vietnamese-inspired dishes at his naughty-named restaurant near the Canal streetcar line. The sweet-and-spicy chicken wings and pepper jelly-glazed clams are must-haves. $$ L, D (W-M). www.mophonola.com. 514 City Park Ave., 504.482.6845. Map 1, D2 PAGODA CAFÉ Contemporary. Located in a

former dry cleaning business, this budget-friendly outdoor eatery is known for its locally roasted coffee and breakfast tacos. Lunch brings curried chicken sandwiches and Indian banh mi. $ B, L (TuF); brunch (Sa-Su). www.pagodacafe.net. 1403 N. Dorgenois St., 504.644.4178. Map 1, E2 RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran

restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park.

One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. $$ L (W-F), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.ralphsonthepark.com. 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2 TOUPS’ MEATERY Louisiana. Chef Isaac Toups

is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the “Meatery Board,” a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fennel and black-eyed pea salad. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.toupsmeatery.com. 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3

Uptown AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-

generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with eggplant

and cranberries, cioppino, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and lasagna with short rib ragou. $$ D (M-Sa). www.restaurantavo.com. 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4 BOUCHERIE Southern. Looking for a great off-

the-beaten-path place where you can get in and out for under $20? Chef/owner Nathaniel Zimet’s culinary creations are as delicious as their prices.

Collard greens with grit fries, duck confit po’ boys, Krispy Kreme bread pudding—trust us on this one. $$ L, D (Tu-Sa). www.boucherie-nola.com.

1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3 CARROLLTON MARKET Louisiana. Chef Jason

Goodenough’s Riverbend restaurant is light and airy. His market-driven menu spins both modern and traditional with dishes such as crispy pork “tail tots” and New Orleans-style cassoulet. No one can get enough of oysters Goodenough—flash-fried oysters with smoky bacon, creamed leeks and béarnaise. $$ D (Tu-Sa). www.carrolltonmarket.com. 8132 Hampston St., 504.252.9928. Map 3, C3 CAVANSeafood. This Victorian home’s “beauti-

ful deterioration” is an ideal setting for chef Ben Thibodeaux’s casual coastal cuisine. Start with the scallop crudo or Old Bay-seasoned fries, before moving on to the seared Gulf fish. $$ D (daily). www.cavannola.com. 3607 Magazine St., 504.509.7655. Map 1, D4 KENTON’SAmerican. Chef Kyle Knall’s menu

is full of smoke and spirit (he has a thing for bourbon). Try the crispy grits with country ham and bourbon aioli or slow-smoked sea trout with charred red onion, pickled mustard seed and apples. $$$ L (M-F), D (nightly); brunch (Sa-Su). www.kentonsrestaurant.com. 5757 Magazine St., 504.891.1177. Map 1, D4 LA PETITE GROCERY French. What once was a

corner grocery has been exquisitely transformed into an intimate French bistro with gas lighting and pressed-tin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets, shrimp and grits or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. $$$ L (TuSa), D (nightly); Su brunch. www.lapetitegrocery. com. 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4 PASCAL’S MANALE American. A New Orleans

landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a must-get) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food.

Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. $$ L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4 SHAYA Mediterranean. Uptown gets a taste of

modern Israel at this award-winning eatery from chef Alon Shaya of restaurant Domenica fame.

Shaya’s wood-burning oven turns out a full menu of falafel and kebabs, along with interesting entrees such as slow-cooked lamb with pomegranate tabouleh. $$ L, D (daily). www.shayarestaurant. com. 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4 SLICE Italian. As its name suggests, this popular

pizzeria offers New York-style pies by the slice, as well as whole. Along with a large selection of topnotch toppings, pasta dishes, calzones and subs are featured, in addition to soups, salads, beer and wine. $ L, D (daily). www.slicepizzeria.com. 5538 Magazine St., 504.897.4800. Map 1, D4; 1513 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.7437. Map 1, D3

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BAR-B-QUE SHRIMP

FAMOUS OYSTER BAR streetcar stop #24 Serving the Finest Fresh Seafood, Delicious Steaks & Italian Specialties

Spacious Parking Lot Available 895-4877 • 1838 Napoleon Ave.

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THE GUIDE

Shopping

Days of the Dead

Get Ready to Rack Up

In other cities, Nov. 1 is usually spent gobbling up the previous day’s candy haul. But in New Orleans, locals pack up their Halloween costumes and head out to the city’s cemeteries to whitewash family tombs and freshen flowers in commemoration of All Saints’ Day. Connecting with the dearly departed is also the idea behind the Witches Altar of the Dead at Hex: Old World Witchery (p. 44). Throughout the year, visitors to the French Quarter shop leave notes to lost loved ones on the altar, which are then burned on Nov. 16, the Night of Hekate, the goddess of magic and crossroads. Stop in, pen a message, and pick up a few candles and other implements to work your own magic back home.

The Outlet Collection at Riverwalk (p. 48) recently welcomed a new addition to its retail lineup: Nordstrom Rack. Along with apparel purchased specifically for Rack, the outlet also offers clearance items from full-line Nordstrom stores. Kate Spade, Marc Jacobs and Zac Posen are just a small sampling of the designer lines featured.

BECKHAM’S BOOKSHOP Thousands of rare,

antique and secondhand books line the shelves at this sprawling emporium. An essential stop for collectors. 228 Decatur St., 504.522.9875. Map 3, E5 FAULKNER HOUSE BOOKS For six months in

1925, William Faulkner lived at this address, and it was here he penned his novel Soldiers’ Pay. First editions of his works are sold, as well as contemporary fiction. faulknerhousebooks.com.

624 Pirate’s Alley (behind St. Louis Cathedral), 504.524.2940 Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT BOOK SHOP This well-stocked

shop offers hundreds of current titles, along with a large selection of New Orleans-related books. Frequent author appearances. www. gardendistrictbookshop.com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.895.2266. Map 1, D4 KITCHEN WITCH New, used and vintage

cookbooks are on the menu at this charming shop geared to foodies. Special emphasis is placed on hard-to-find Southern titles and rare volumes devoted to Creole and Cajun cuisine. www.kwcookbooks.com. 1452 Broad St., 504.528.8382. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better

place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. Live performances on Saturdays. www.lou-

SKULLY’Z RECORDZ This small music

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

wheretraveler.com

shop is big on new and used CDs, DVDs and vinyl recordings. Imports, obscure albums and works by independent local artists are also offered. 907 Bourbon St., 504.592.4666. Map 3, H4

Clothing AMERICAN APPAREL Everyone needs those

wardrobe staples—basic Ts and tanks, jeans and sweats—and that’s exactly what you’ll find (in just about any color you can image) at the local branch of this international chain. www.americanapparel. net. 3310 Magazine St., 504.895.4970. Map 1, D4 BALLIN’S The latest fashions-from cocktail attire

to sportswear-from such well-known designers as Marisa Baratelli, Vera Wang, Lafayette 148 and Laundry, as well as accessories. www.ballinsltd. com. 721 Dante St., 504.866.4367. Map 1, C3 BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic

boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his home state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. www.billyreid.com. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4 BUFFALO EXCHANGE Unhappy with the clothes

you packed? Trade ’em for a new look at this award-winning resale shop. An ever-changing

inventory keeps the fashions fresh and affordable. Used clothing may be exchanged for any item in the store. www. buffaloexchange.com. 4119 Magazine St., 504.891.7443. Map 1, D4

DEFEND NEW ORLEANS Part T-shirt shop, part

boutique and part home store. With its iconic skull, fleur de lis and musket branding, this hip spot embodies the resilient spirit of the city. www.defendneworleans.com. 1101 First St., 504.941.7010. Map 1, D4 DIRTY COAST Just when you thought New

Orleans couldn’t possibly fit another T-shirt shop, along comes Dirty Coast. But you won’t find your standard Bourbon Street garb here. Catering to locals and in-the-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. www.dirtycoast.com. 713 Royal St., 504.324.6730. Map 3, G4; 2121 Chartres St. 504.324.6459. Map 3, J5; 5631 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4 FLEURTY GIRL When Lauren Thom began printing

T-shirts in her kitchen in 2009 little did she know just how big the small venture would quickly become. Today her popular designs celebrating local culture are found citywide. www.fleurtygirl.net.

3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; 632 St. Peter St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.309.3944. Map 1, D3 H&M This Swedish-based retail chain is known

around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-to-

THE FRENCH MARKETthe nation’s oldest public-produce market—stands on the site of a former Native American trading post established during pre-colonial days.

(LEFT) ©SHAWN FINK; (RIGHT) ©NORDSTROM INC.

Books & Music

isianamusicfactory.com. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5

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Receive off entire purchase when you mention Where Magazine!

Metairie French Quarter Uptown 3000 Severn Ave 539 Bienville St 2109 Magazine St 504.888.7080 504.875.2929 504.309.7702

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THE GUIDE

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

Louisiana Tax-Free Shopping provides refunds of state and local sales tax to international visitors on items purchased in Louisiana from participating retailers. To learn more, visit www.louisianataxfree.com.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 85-87.

Index Books & Music ......................................................................................... 40

Clothing........................................................................................................ 40 Gifts & Collectibles ............................................................................. 43 Gourmet Food & Spirits ................................................................. 44 Hats & Accessories ............................................................................. 45 Health & Beauty/Spas ..................................................................... 45 Home & Garden ................................................................................... 46 Jewelry ......................................................................................................... 47 Malls/Major Retailers......................................................................... 48 Shoes............................................................................................................... 48 Special Services...................................................................................... 48

YOUR JEWELRY ISN’T JUST JEWELRY

719 ROYAL STREET NEW ORLEANS, LA 70116 504.522.0222 504.522.9222

resist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured, along with hip home accents. www. hm.com. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5

Some jewelry displayed patented (US Pat. No. 7,007,507) • © 2015 Pandora Jewelry, LLC • All rights reserved • PANDORA.NET

HEMLINE Fashion-forward clothing, shoes, acces-

sories and such sought-after lines as BCBG, Laundry and Diesel are found here. www.shophemline. com. 609 Chartres St., 504.592.0242. Map 3, G4; 3308 Magazine St., 504.269.4005. Map 1, D4 JACI BLUE At this boutique you’ll find gorgeous,

fashion-forward clothing, lingerie and accessories, handpicked to flatter women size 12 and up. www.jaciblue.com. 2111 Magazine St., 504.603.2929. Map 1, D4 LILI VINTAGE BOUTIQUE Retro rules at this chic

shop, where yesteryear’s castoffs are given new leases on life. The hand-selected inventory, with a focus on vintage cocktail dresses, is top-quality and constantly changing. Costume jewelry and other accessories are also featured. www.lilivintage.com. 3329 Magazine St., 504.891.9311. Map 1, D4 LOST AND FOUND What you’ll find at this fun

French Quarter shop is a constantly changing inventory of women’s clothing and accessories mixed with offbeat gift items. www.lostandfoundnola. com. 323 Chartres St., 504.595.6745. Map 3, F4 NOLA TIL YA DIEWhy just wear your heart on your

sleeve, when you can show some Crescent City love on a cool hoodie, T-shirt, tank top, beanie or cap? NOLA-themed koozies, flasks, flags and temporary tats make great gift items. www.nolatilyadie. com. 3536 Toulouse St., 504.281.4928. Map 1, D2 PENELOPE Affordable luxury is the key phrase at

this sophisticated women’s boutique. Searching for edgy elegance with a European accent? You’ll find it here at hard-to-beat prices: All items are under $100. 328 Chartres St., 504.522.5893. Map 3, F4 PIPPEN LANE Go ahead and spoil the child at this

upscale boutique, which features fine designer kids’ clothing for both boys and girls, stylish Eu-

WHITE ELEPHANT SALE & AUCTION

S

ince 1946, The Patio Planters of the Vieux Carré has sponsored Caroling in Jackson Square. One of the French Quarter events organized to fund that sponsorship is the White Elephant Sale & Auction.

The White Elephant Sale is an Auction, Yard Sale, and Raffle — something for everyone. Some of the best French Quarter businesses, restaurants, hotels, art galleries and shops donate gift certificates and auction items for this event. Baskets of Cheer full of wine and spirits are raffled off throughout the day. The yard sale items are all donations from members and friends of The Patio Planters du Vieux Carré, and include jewelry, books, clothing, and plants.

Donations and auction items are accepted year-round by The Patio Planters of the Vieux Carré. For more information, to become a member, or to make a 501(c)3 donation, please visit www.patioplanters.org

Saturday, November 12th 10 am – 4 pm In the schoolyard at Royal & St. Philip St. Free & open to the public

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SHOPPING

ropean shoes, custom furniture and embroidered linens. www.pippenlane.com. 2930 Magazine St., 504.269.0106. Map 1, D4 PRIMA DONNA’S CLOSET This upscale consign-

ment shop is a favorite among locals in search of great bargains. The focus is on gently worn fashions for both women and men—from casual to evening wear—featuring such celebrated designer lines as Armani, Chanel, Gucci and Prada, among others. www.primadonnascloset.com. 1206 St. Charles Ave., 504.522.3327. Map 3, A5; 927 Royal St., 504.875.4437. Map 3, H4

RUBENSTEIN’S The Rubenstein family has been

outfitting locals since 1924. But the fashions here are anything but dated: Zegna, Canali and Paul Smith are just a sampling of the designers in stock. www.rubensteinsneworleans.com. 102 St. Charles Ave., 504.581.6666. Map 3, E4 TOTAL WOMAN This boutique offers such design-

ers as Diane von Furstenberg, Trina Turk, Vince and Shin Choi, in addition to shoes and accessories

by Tracy Reese, Robert Rodriguez and Gucci. www.totalwomanola.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.891.3964. Map 1, D4

TRASHY DIVA Featured in such publications as

Elle and Lucky, Candice Gwinn’s NOLA-based clothing company features original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The stylish shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories, along with numerous locations. www.trashydiva.com.

829 Chartres St., 504.581.4555. Map 3, H4; 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 712 Royal St., 504.522.8861. Map 3, G4; 2044 Magazine St., 504.522.5686. Map 1, D4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; 2050 Magazine St., 504.265.0973. Map 1, D4 UNITED APPAREL LIQUIDATORS A bargain

hunter’s paradise overflowing with overstock items and runway collection castoffs. From everyday casual wear to must-have designer wear, you’ll find it all here at drastically reduced prices. www.shopual. com. 518 Chartres St., 504.301.4437. Map 3, F4 WEINSTEIN’S Elegant European womenswear,

from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by such leading designers as Piazza Sempione and Stella McCartney. www.weinsteinsinc.com. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4 THE WILD LIFE RESERVE Designer Micaiah

’

Bethune has built a strong following with his line of limited-edition men’s neckwear constructed largely from vintage materials. Now he and wife Tabitha have their own boutique tailored to both sexes, with a focus on smaller, local labels. www. thewildlifereserve.com. 111 St. Charles Ave., 504.324.4405. Map 3, E4

Gifts & Collectibles BOTTOM OF THE CUP In addition to psychic read-

The Shops at Canal Place 333 Canal Street, Second Level New Orleans, LA 70130 www.wehmeiers.com • 504-681-2082

ings (palm, tarot, tea leaf), this 80-year-old shop offers a variety of teas and accessories. Crystals, amulets and other metaphysical gift items are also available. www.bottomofthecup.com. 327 Chartres St., 504.524.1997. Map 3, F4 BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including

designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with cool home accents and great gift items. 719 Royal St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4 CENTER FOR SOUTHERN CRAFT AND DESIGN The

Ogden Museum of Southern Art gift shop showcases one-of-a-kind glass, metal, wood, ceramic and fabric items, along with jewelry designed and crafted by Southern artists. Books, CDs and T-shirts celebrating Southern culture are also offered. www.ogdenmuseum.org. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 CIGAR FACTORY NEW ORLEANS & MUSEUM

Watch master cigar makers at work in the Crescent City’s oldest and only cigar factory and museum. Among the specialty styles made here are Plantation Reserve and Vieux Carré. www.cigarfactoryneworleans.com. 415 Decatur St., 504.568.1003. Map 3, F5; 206 Bourbon St., 504.568.0168. Map 3, E4 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant

hand-pressed Victorian reproduction tile, featuring historically authentic patterns and finishes, can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. www.derbypottery.com. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4

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THE GUIDE ELLEN MACOMBER FINE ART & TEXTILESSearch-

ing for cool Crescent City collectibles? Set the GPS for this shop, where artist Ellen Macomber’s street map-inspired designs are offered on everything form clothing to housewares. www. ellenmacomber.com. 1720 St. Charles Ave., 504.314.9414. Map 1, D3 ERZULIE’S AUTHENTIC VOUDOU Experience the

power of authentic voodoo at this shop which offers hand-crafted spell kits, magical gris-gris bags, voodoo psychic oils, love potions, dolls and more. www.erzulies.com. 807 Royal St., 504.525.2055. Map 3, G4 FOREVER NEW ORLEANS At this shop, you’ll

find fleur-de-lis everything—from pillows to pottery—along with other Crescent City-themed keepsakes and gift items. 308 Royal St., 504.525.0100. Map 3, F4; 606 Royal St., 504.510.4813. Map 3, G4; 622 Royal St., 504.522.0950. Map 3, G4; 700 Royal St., 504.586.3536. Map 3, G4; 407 Decatur St., 504.510.4030. Map 3, F5 GEM DE FRANCE Where do French Quarter

Francophiles go for authentic French Country table linens, shea-butter soaps and trés chic home accents? To Gem de France, naturally, where you’ll find plenty of Parisian imports to ooh-lala over. www.gemdefrance.com. 729 Royal St., 504.571.6304. Map 3, G4 HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERYThis magical empo-

rium offers everything from herbal enchantments and candles to bless your home to voodoo dolls crafted by true practitioners and psychic readings by real New Orleans witches. www.hexwitch.com.

1219 Decatur St., 504.613.0558. Map 3, I5 HOMEBASE Kick your souvenir shopping up a

notch with a visit to Emeril Lagasse’s corporate headquarters, which stocks everything Bam!-related, from Emeril aprons and toques to a full line of the celebrity chef’s cookbooks, cookware and spices. www.emerils.com. 829 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4241. Map 3, B5 IDEA FACTORY This eclectic gift shop features

everything from toys and kitchen accessories to sculpture and custom-made signs. Unique examples of woodworking from around the U.S. are also available. www.ideafactoryneworleans.com.

924 Royal St., 504.524.5195. Map 3, H4 JUDY AT THE RINK Unsure just what you’re in the

market for? Between the decorative glass, servingware, lamps, mirrors, jewelry and local art offered at this home décor and gift shop, you are bound to find that perfect something. 2727 Prytania St., 504.891.7018. Map 1, D4 LITTLE TOY SHOP You’ll find plenty to keep small

hands and minds busy here, from entertaining games to historical action figures. New Orleans-themed toys and books are also offered. www.magicboxneworleans.com. 513 St. Ann St., 504.523.1770. Map 3, G5; 900 Decatur St., 504.522.6588. Map 3, H5 THE MASK GALLERYAustrian crystals, hand-

tolled leather and fanciful feathers are the signature touches of maskmaker Massoud Dalili’s colorful Carnival creations. 841 Royal St., 504.523.6664. Map 3, F4 MASKARADE A small shop offering one of

the largest selections of Venetian masks in the country, in addition to hundreds of hand-

made masks by local and international artists. www.themaskstore.com. 630 St. Ann St., 504.568.1018. Map 3, G4 MIETTE Out-of-the-ordinary gifts and souvenirs

are showcased at this colorful and crowded boutique. A mix of locally made jewelery, crafts, clothing and home accents is offered. iheartmiette. com. 2038 Magazine St., 504 .522.2883. Map 1, D4 MOONSHINE NETTIE Kicked-up kitsch is the

trademark of this women’s boutique. Vintage clothing, funky jewelry, glitter makeup, tutus, tiaras—if it’s fun and fab, you’ll find it here. 901 Chartres St., 504.523.7625. Map 3, H4 NOLA KIDS This French Quarter children’s

boutique offers select apparel for both girls and boys, from infant to youth. Locally made Kalencom diaper bags and accessories are also featured, along with toys, books and great gift items. www.shopnolakids.com. 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4 PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French

Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills, hand-poured French inks, Roman monogram seals and other desk accessories are featured. www.papierplume.com. 842 Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4 PLUM This hip home and gift shop is devoted

to “cool stuff for stylish living,” much of which is created by local crafters. Handmade housewares, artful accents, jazzy jewelry: If it’s both fun and functional, you’ll likely find it here. www.plumneworleans.com. 1914 Magazine St., 504.897.3388. Map 1, D4 RAZZLE DAZZLE Searching for great gift items?

Step into this French Quarter boutique, where Mardi Gras masks and collectibles are coupled with jewerly, locally made candles, seasonal home accents and more. www.razzledazzle.com. 742 Royal St., 504.568.0001. Map 3, G4 RED ARROW WORKSHOP Louisiana-themed gifts,

art prints, handmade leather goods and apparel can be found at this hip shop. Opened as an extension of its Lafayette home base, the store features work by dozens of New Orleans and Acadian artists. www.redarrowworkshop.com. 3926 Magazine St., 504.309.5304. Map 1, D4 REV. ZOMBIE’S VOODOO SHOP Interested in the

occult? This shop offers a wide array of goods geared to both novices and practitioners: tribal masks and talismans, spell kits and candles, books and herbs. Psychic and spiritual readings are also available. www.voodooneworleans.com. 723 St. Peter St., 504.486.6366. Map 3, G4 ROCKET FIZZ Candy connoisseurs get their fill

at this oh-so-sweet shop, packed with nostalgic sweets and novelty treats. A large selection of British and Asian imports is offered, along with hundreds of sodas in fun flavors. www.rocketfizz. com. 831 Decatur St., 504.566.7500. Map 3, H5 SANTA’S QUARTERS Get your Christmas fix at this

holiday-themed shop—the South’s largest—selling nativity sets, specialty lights and locally crafted ornaments year-round. www.santasquartersno. com. 1027 Decatur St., 504.581.5820. Map 3, H5 SCRIPTURA A wordsmith’s dream, selling formal

and unusual paper products, including New Orleans-themed stationery, pens, journals,

note cards, custom wax seals, travel diaries, and photo albums. www.scriptura.com. 5423 Magazine St., 504.897.1555. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.219.1113. Map 1, C2 WHAT’S NEW This small shop is packed full of

Crescent City collectibles and great gift items.

Seafood-accented serving ware, crown- and fleur de lis-embroidered table linens, New Orleans-themed books and home accents— you’re bound to find that perfect something. www.whatsnew-nola.com. 824 Decatur St., 504.586.2095. Map 3, H5

Gourmet Food & Spirits AUNT SALLY’S PRALINE SHOP Chances are you’ll

catch the sweet scent of Aunt Sally’s clear down the block. Created from Louisiana cane sugar and pecans, pralines are made fresh daily in the store’s kitchen. The shelves are also stocked with Crescent City souvenir items. www.auntsallys.com.

810 Decatur St., 504.524.3373. Map 3, H5 BITTERSWEET CONFECTIONS Crescent City

confectioner Cheryl Scripter has built a strong following with her incredible truffle collections. Her Warehouse District location also offers fresh morning pastries, coffees and teas, along with delicious cakes, cookies, dipped fruits, toffees and handmade nonparelis. www. bittersweetconfections.com. 725 Magazine St., 504.523.2626. Map 3, C6 BLUE FROG CHOCOLATES Chocolate gets

elevated to an art form at this oh-so-sweet shop, which features delectable imported and domestic chocolates, truffles, Italian candy flowers, pralines and other New Orleans specialties. www.bluefrogchocolates.com. 5707 Magazine St., 504.269.5707. Map 1, D4 KEIFE & CO. A charming, beautifully curated wine

and spirits shop in the Warehouse District. There’s a hushed library feel to the place, with floor-toceiling shelving stocked deep with wines, booze, liqueurs and unique quaffs. Gourmet food items are also offered. www.keifeandco.com. 801 Howard Ave., 504.523.7272. Map 3, B5 LA RIVIÈRE CONFISERIESpecializing in handcraft-

ed, high-quality French confections, this artisanal sweets boutique offers imported indulgences, such as Henri Le Roux chocolates and Despinoy tinned candies. www.lariviereconfiserie.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.809.1026. Map 1, D4 LAURA’S CANDIES Laura’s confectionery dates

to 1913, making it the oldest candy store in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent “Mississippi Mud.” www.laurascandies. com. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 535 Decatur St., 504.309.2540. Map 3, F5 MARTIN WINE CELLAR Wine Spectator has

recognized Martin Wine as one of the country’s premier emporiums of fine vintages and gourmet food items. www.martinwine.com. 3827 Baronne St., 504.899.7411. Map 1, D4; 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, 504.896.7300. Map 1, C2 ROUSES This regional supermarket chain, with

locations in Louisiana and Mississippi, has built its reputation on buying from local suppliers, farmers and fishermen. www.rouses.com. 701 Royal St., 504.523.1353. Map 3, G4; 701 Baronne St., 504.227.3838. Map 3, C4

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VIEUX CARRÉ WINE & SPIRITS The French Quar-

ter’s most popular spot for fine wines, top-shelf liquors and imported and domestic beer. Free delivery is available throughout the Quarter and nearby neighborhoods. 422 Chartres St., 504.568.

WINE. Map 3, F4 VOM FASS Pop into this local branch of the growing

German chain of condiment stores, and taste your way through several walls of wonderful oils, vinegars and spirits. Select from a wild array of “from the cask” flavors—from chili-fig vinegar to nutty pistachio oil. www.vomfassusa.com. 29 Carondelet St., 504.302.1455. Map 3, E4 WHOLE FOODS The organic grocery offers a wealth

of all-natural goods, along with an excellent selection of prepared food items and three locations. www.wholefoodsmarket.com. 5600 Magazine St., 504.899.9119. Map 1, D4; 300 N. Broad St., 504.434.3364. Map 1, D2; 3420 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.888.8225. Map 1, C2 WINE INSTITUTE NEW ORLEANS In addition to

recreational wine classes, professional certification courses and private tasting sessions, this shop/ school offers fine vintages for sale, along with a tasting room featuring 120 wines for sampling. www.winoschool.com. 610 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.8000. Map 3, D6

Hats & Accessories 537 ROYAL ST | 2048 MAGAZINE ST

trashydiva.com 504.299.3939

BELLA UMBRELLA Cloudy skies? This shop helps

you keep a sunny disposition with cool rain gear, ranging from vintage parasols to its signature pagoda-style umbrella. www.bellaumbrella.com.

504.529.8945. Map 1, D4 FLEUR DE PARIS You’re guaranteed to turn heads

when sporting one of this shop’s handcrafted hats.

Choose from over 800 original designs accented with European ribbons and veiling. Couture gowns are also featured. www.fleurdeparis.net. 523 Royal St., 504.525.1899. Map 3, G4 GOORIN BROS. HATS The city’s newest hat shops

date to 1895, when master milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s chic chapeaux and stylish stores are found nationwide. www.goorin.com. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; 2123 Magazine St., 504.522.1890. Map 1, D3 MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the

South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of quality headwear in the United States, including Borsalino felts, Stetson Panama straws, Dobbs dress hats and Kangol caps. Worldwide shipping is available. Located just off Canal Street. www.meyerthehatter.com. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4 QUEORK Cork is the draw at this sleek shop,

where the resilient material is fashioned into chic handbags, totes, belts, phone cases, pet collars and more. www.queork.com. 838 Chartres St., 504.899.9299. Map 3, H4; 3005 Magazine St., 504.701.1858. Map 1, D4 WEHMEIER’S This emporium stocks a wide

variety of super-premium items in exotic leathers, including alligator, ostrich and lizard belts, bags and accessories. Fine leather boots for both men and women from Lucchese, Old Gringo and Lane are featured. www.wehmeiers.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.681.2082. Map 3, E5

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with

antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top-of-the-line grooming products for men. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves and great gifts for that hard-to-surprise guy in your life. www.aidangillformen.com. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; 550 Fulton St., 504.566.4903. Map 3, D6 AVERY FINE PERFUMERY This artisanal fragrance

”smell gallery” is one of only four in the world and the Italian-based InterTrade Europe group’s sole stateside location. Hard-to-find niche brands such as Blood Concept and Nez à Nez are featured. www.averyfineperfumeries.com. 527 St. Joseph St., 504.522.7102. Map 3, B6 FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink

wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby red lipstick?

It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter.

Stylists can make you over for special events, or accessorize your look with funky handbags and sunglasses. www.fifimahonys.com. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4 HOVÉ Hové is a European-style parfumeur that

has been in business for 80 years. Among the fragrant perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents. www.hoveparfumeur.com. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5 LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market”

décor have made the Lush chain an international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. www.lushusa.com. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4 MECCA ESSENTIAL SALTS & BATH PRODUCTS

Over the past two decades Mecca Davis has traveled the South, searching out natural skin-care remedies. The result is her popular line of organic bath bombs and scented Epsom salts, found at the French Market. www.meccaessential.com. French Market, 504.408.3402. Map 3, H5 PLANET BEACHThis French Quarter spa

provides a variety of services, from massages and facials to spray tanning and teeth whitening. www.planetbeach.com. 301 Burgundy St., 594.525.8266. Map 3, F3 THE REMEDY ROOM Overindulged? This innovative

clinic helps visitors rebound from travel sickness, hangovers and overeating through rehydration therapy, using vitamins, minerals and antioxidants.

Reservations required. www.theremedyroom.com.

1224 St. Charles Ave., 504.301.1670. Map 3, A6 THE SPA AT THE RITZCARLTON This luxurious,

award-winning spa features 22 treatment rooms, two couples suites, a separate esthetician wing, sauna and steam rooms and a health-conscious café. Named the best hotel spa in the nation by Travel + Leisure. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.670.2929. Map 3, E3 TAO SPA Have a half hour to spare? Step into these

centrally located relaxation stations, which specializes in reflexology treatments, and walk out a brand new you. 837 Canal St., 210.843.8276. Map 3, E3; 212 Chartres St. Map 3, E4; Riverwalk Marketplace, 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., level A. Map 3, D7; 140 Carondelet St. Map 3, D3 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 45

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WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10

private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services, including indulgent therapies that incorporate diamond and 24-carat gold products. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. www.rooseveltneworleans.com.

123 Baronne St., 504.335.3190. Map 3, E3

Experience the Charm of the Historic French Quarter A

THE WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City

branch of this nationwide franchise offers a variety of relaxing body treatments—reflexology, volcanic stone massages, seaweed wraps, expresso-mud scrubs—along with rejuvenating facials, manicures, pedicures and more. www. neworleans.woodhousespas.com. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3

Home & Garden AKA STELLA GRAY“Bohemian luxury” is the

concept at this artfully appointed home décor shop. Antique accents and vintage items meld with funky furniture, offbeat art, cool lighting and more. www.akastellagray.com. 4422 Magazine St., 504.208.2300. Map 1, D4 THE ARTISTIC HOMEThis Magazine Street spot

COUTELIER Form and function combine at this Riv-

erbend shop, where stunning Japanese knives line cypress display boards. Chef’s knives from Kikuichi to Takeda are available, as are knife-sharpening services, cookbooks and other kitchen accessories. www.nolaknifeworks.com. 8239 Oak Street, 504.475.5606. Map 1, C3 DESIGN WITHIN REACH Eames, Gehry, Jacob-

sen, Nelson, Rashid and Stark merely hint at the cutting-edge designer names featured at the local branch of this national contemporary homedesign chain. www.dwr.com. 3138 Magazine St., 504.891.6520. Map 1, D4 THE GIVING TREE Cartography fan? Navigate

your way to this shop, where wooden 3D nautical charts of the nation’s waterways line the walls.

Home décor items and jewelry are also featured. www.thegivingtreegallery.com. 738 Royal St., 504.475.5906. Map 3, G4; 829 Chartres St., 504.586.2085. Map 3, H4

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features home furnishings made by local artists.

Shoppers can find everything from handmade jewelery to tables, chairs and coffee tables made from reclaimed materials. 1920 Magazine St., 985.869.3339. Map 1, D4

HAZELNUT Crescent City native and Broadway/

TV vet Bryan Batt (“Mad Men”) has received much well-deserved applause for his show-stopping décor shop. Unusual home accents, such as New Orleans-themed toile, are featured. www. hazelnutneworleans.com. 5515 Magazine St., 504.891.2424. Map 1, D4 LOOMED NOLA Hand-woven cotton, linen and silk

in a range of colors forms the basis of the organic Turkish textiles found here. Scarves, robes, towels and bedcovers are among the offerings. www. loomednola.com. 2727 Prytania St., Suite 13, 504.304.2047. Map 1, D4

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LUM Looking for an authentic elk-hoof lamp or a

pair fashioned from antique wooden wallpaper rolls? You’ll find them at this vintage lighting store, along with everything from rare 1920s Japanese pewter lamps to oh-so-’70s cork-and-chrome models. www.shoplum.com. 3806 Magazine St., 504.939.1474. Map 1, D4

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SHOPPING

NADINE BLAKE Interiors maven Blake is redefin-

ing the idea of French Quarter chic at her sleek décor boutique. Home furnishings and accessories with a contemporary twist are featured, along with creative gift items. 1036 Royal St., 504.529.4913. Map 3, H4 NOLA BOARDSAdd a dash of Crescent City flavor

YOUR EVENT WILL BE CELEBRATED IN HISTORY. H E R M A N N -GR I M A H O US E N E W O R LE A N S ’ H I S T O R I C EVENT S ET T ING .

to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. www.nolaboards.com. 4304 Magazine St., 504.516.2601. Map 1, D4 RAZZE DAZZLE HOME Contemporary furnishings

and tableware meld with estate pieces at this home decor shop. www.razzledazzle.com. 2014 Magazine St., 504.523.9525. Map 1, D4 RICCA ARCHITECTURAL SALES Accessible via the

Canal streetcar line, this Mid-City warehouse is packed with retro Southern splendor rescued from demolished buildings. Hard-to-find antique hardware, ornate mantles, stained-glass windows and an endless selection of doors merely hint at the offerings. www.riccasarchitecturalsales.com. 511 N. Solomon St., 504.488.5524. Map 1, D2 ROUX ROYALE This shop caters to foodies with se-

820 saint louis street | events@hgghh.org hgghh.org

lect serving ware and kitchen-related accessories, many featuring a Crescent City flavor. Cookbooks by local chefs and prepackaged food items are also offered. 600 Royal St., 504.565.5272. Map 3, G4 WEST ELMThis local branch of the mid-century

minded home furnishings store is indicative of the new New Orleans and Magazine Street’s increasingly modernist movement. Handcrafted goods from around the globe are coupled with items crafted by local artisans. www.westelm.com. 2929 Magazine St., 504.895.2469. Map 1, D4

Jewelry ADLER’S Since 1898, Adler’s has been New Or-

leans’ most respected repository for fine jewelry, watches, china and silver. www.adlersjewelry.com.

722 Canal St., 504.523.5292. Map 3, E4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.523.1952. Map 1, C2 ADORN & CONQUER Metalsmith Maria Fomich cre-

ates handmade jewelry on site at this small space in the Rink shopping center. New Orleans elements (shotgun houses, streetcars) and bits of nature (leaf and bone imprints) are featured in her designs and works by national crafters. www.adornandconquer. com. 2727 Prytania St., 504.702.8036. Map 1, D4 ART & EYES The eyes have it at this hip eyewear

boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames, both new and vintage, to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. www.artandeyesnola.com. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4 BIJOU NOLA A small shop big on handcrafted

designs by local and international artists. Designs accented with gemstones in 14-kt. gold, sterling silver, stainless steel and titanium are featured. www.bijounola.com. 635 St. Peter St., 504.529.3001. Map 3, G4 DASHKA ROTH CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY & JUDA ICA Thanks to her studies at Rhode Island School

of Design, Roth brings a well-trained eye to the selections offered at her gallery, which specializes in handmade jewelry and Judaica by nationwide w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 47

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SHOPPING

artists. www.dashkaroth.com. 332 Chartres St., 504.523.0805. Map 3, F4 FLEUR D’ORLEANS French Quarter cast iron, St.

Louis Cathedral’s cross and ornamental Uptown cornices are among the architectural elements incorporated in the jewelry at this shop. As its name suggests, fleurs de lis are prominent, with more than 75 different designs featured. www.fleurdorleans.com. 818 Chartres St., 504.475.5254. Map 3, G4; 3701A Magazine St., 504.899.5585. Map 1, D4 GOGO Contemporary jewelry fan? Get thee to

Gogo, where locals flock for homegrown designer Gogo Borgerding’s Elle-approved anodized aluminum bracelets and yummy acrylic “sushi” rings. www.ilovegogojewelry.com. 2036 Magazine St., 504.529.8868. Map 1, D4 JACK SUTTON FINE JEWELRY The Sutton family has

a long history in New Orleans, and Jack Sutton has long been regarded as one of the Crescent City’s leading purveyors of diamond jewelry. Classic and contemporary collections are featured, along with antique reproductions. www.jacksutton.com. 365 Canal St., 504.522.8080. Map 3, E5 JOSE BALLI Mardi Gras mask rings, Dixie beer-

cap pendants, beignet earrings, shotgun house cufflinks: local treasures are the trademark of jeweler Balli. Coastal, Cajun and religious motifs are also prominent in his popular gold and silver designs. www.joseballi.com. 621 Chartres St., 504.522.1770. Map 3, G4 KREWE DU OPTIC Eyewear-maker Stirling Barrett

has garnered a national following with his locally designed line of sunglasses. Each of his iconic styles is named for a New Orleans street and features handmade acetate frames with gold hardware. www.kreweduoptic.com. 809 Royal St., 504.407.2945. Map 3, H4 LA PETIT FLEUR Specializing in estate and contem-

porary jewelry, La Petit Fleur is well known for its own line of pendants based ont the fleur de lis, now widely embraced as the symbol of New Orleans’ rebirth. The shop also offers Crescent City-themed charms. www.lapetitfleur.com. 534 Royal St., 504.522.1305. Map 3, G4 MARION CAGE “Jewelry is a form of architecture,

and the body is its landscape” is the mantra of Marion Cage McCollam, whose elegant, minimalist creations reflect her industrial-design training.

Cool home accents and hardware are also featured. www.marioncage.com. 3719 Magazine St., 504.891.8848. Map 1, D4 MIGNON FAGET Beloved local designer Mignon

Faget has created extraordinary jewelry, using semiprecious stones and precious metals, for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. www.mignonfaget. com. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; Lakeside Shopping Center, 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.2244. Map 1, C2; The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 504.524.2973. Map 3, E5 QUARTER PAST TIME Vintage watches are

the main staple of this French Quarter shop, along with antique radios, lighters, jewelry, silver, and other collectibles. 606 Chartres St., 504.410.0010. Map 3, G4 SABAI Trips to the Far East keep the merchandise

at this shop stylish. The large selection of silver and gold jewelry is accented with unusual fossils and

minerals. www.sabaijewelry.com. 3115 Magazine St., 504.899.9555. Map 1, D4 SYMMETRY JEWELERS This full-service jewelry

shop, located in the Riverbend neighborhood, features contemporary designs by local, national and international artists, along with custom-made creations by in-house craftsman Tom Mathis. A large selection of gemstones is offered, in addition to estate jewelry pieces, antique restoration and traditional repair services. www.symmetryjewelers. com. 8138 Hampson St., 504.861.9925. Map 1, C3 TIFFANY & CO. Founded in 1837 as “a stationery

and fancy goods emporium,” Tiffany’s has since become synonymous with top-of-the-line luxury jewelry, and famed worldwide for its signature blue boxes. www.tiffany.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 1st fl., 800.843.3269. Map 3, E5 WARBY PARKERAffordable eyewear and

Mid-Century Modern stylishness are Warby Parker’s trademarks. An in-store photo studio lets customers email images of their new glasses to friends, or to themselves and then purchase later online. www.warbyparker.com. 3964 Magazine St., 504.799.2830. Map 1, D4 THE WATCH & CLOCK SHOP Established in 1958,

this shop specializes in timepieces for all occasions.

New, vintage, antique and estate pieces by such makers as Rolex, Patek Philipe and Movado are featured. www.worldoftime.com. 824 Gravier St., 504.525.3961. Map 3, D4 WELLINGTON & COMPANY This shop is largely

devoted to antique and estate jewelry, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. A large selection of diamond engagement rings is also featured, along with new designer lines such as Thistle & Bee. www.wcjewelry.com. 505 Royal St., 504.525.4855. Map 3, F4

Malls/Major Retailers GULFPORT PREMIUM OUTLETS It may be an hour’s

drive, but a day trip to this popular outlet mall is well worth the investment for bargain hunters. The sprawling complex offers deep savings at more than 70 leading retailers (from Ann Taylor and J. Crew to Coach and Nike), along with a food court to keep shoppers fueled and on the go. Open daily. www.premiumoutlets.com. 10000 Factory Shops Blvd., Gulfport, Miss., 228.867.6100.

JAX BREWERY This 1891 brewhouse is now a

riverfront marketplace with three levels of shops and restaurants. www.jacksonbrewery.com. 600 Decatur St., 504.566.7245. Map 3, G5 LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping

stop of New Orleanians for more than 30 years, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, the Disney Store, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Microsoft and Sephora. www.lakesideshopping.com. 3301 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2 THE OUTLET COLLECTION AT RIVERWALK Located

along the Mississippi River at the foot of Canal Street, the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk offers the nation’s first urban outlet center and more than 70 shops, including Neiman Marcus Last Call Studio and Coach. Adjacent to the Convention Center, Riverwalk is within walking distance of the CBD and French Quarter. www.riverwalkmarketplace.com. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7

THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE Canal Place features

some of the world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Armani Collezioni, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers and a state-of-the-art dine-in movie theater, food court and gym. www.theshopsatcanalplace.com. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5

Shoes AEROSOLES This shoe store offers specially con-

structed, moderately priced designs in updated styles. www.aerosoles.com. 510 St. Peter St., 504.529.7463. Map 3, G5 DONALD J. PLINER This Canal Place retailer is

devoted to shoes, handbags and accessories from designer Donald J. Pliner. www.donaldjpliner.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.522.1720. Map 3, E5 FEET FIRST More than 50 lines of women’s brand-

name shoes, handbags, jewelry and accessories are offered here, along with items by local designers. www.feetfirststores.com. 526 Royal St. 504.569.0005. Map 3, G4; 4122 Magazine St., 504.899.6800. Map 1, D4 GOOD FEET Foot pain? Step into this shop for

professionally fit arch supports designed to fit everything from sneakers and sandals to dress shoes and high heels. More than 25 styles are available, along with shoes, cushions and accessories. www.orleansshoes.com. 539 Bienville St., 504.875.2929. Map 3, F5; 3000 Severn Ave., 504.888.7080. Map 1, C2 JOHN FLUEVOG”Unique soles for unique souls.”

This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. www.fluevog.com. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4 SHOE BE DO “NOLA’s newest addiction” offers

high-fashion women’s shoes without the high prices that usually accompany them. Get a step ahead with a large selection of cutting-edge footwear from up-and-coming international designers.

324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4 VICTORIA’S One of the city’s leading purvey-

ors of women’s fine footwear, featuring such sought-after designers as Jimmy Choo, Vera Wang and Robert Clergerie. 4858 Magazine St., 504.899.8878. Map 1, D4

Special Services FRENCH QUARTER POSTAL EMPORIUM In

addition to USPS, UPS and Federal Express shipping, this Bourbon Street postal facility offers Internet access, copying and faxing services. www.frenchquarterpostal.com. 1000 Bourbon St., 504.525.6651. Map 3, H4 LUXE LIMOSINES This professional car service pro-

vides top-notch transport around the city in chauffeured sedans, SUVs, stretch limos and minibuses. www.neworleansluxurylimos.com. 504.324.4028.

PACK RAT SHIPPING SERVICESWhy bother

with baggage claim? This all-in-one spot offers national and international shipping (DHL, FedEx, USPS), along with more than 40 additional related services, from computer and copying needs to notary public and passport photographs. www.packratshipping.com. 3436 Magazine St., 504.899.5415. Map 1, D4

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THE GUIDE

Galleries+Antiques Thread Winner Looking for the perfect gift for the art lover on your list? We found it: one-on-one time with Chris Roberts-Antieau. Famed for her intricate applique works (shown), the self-taught, Michigan-based artist is conducting a New Orleans retreat Jan. 19-22.

The arty experience features a welcome reception at Antieau’s French Quarter gallery (p. 46), a Vieux Carré walking tour, accommodations at the Old No. 77 Hotel & Chandlery, daily workshops at the historic New Orleans Athletic Club, all supplies (fabrics, threads, sewing machines), a streetcar pass for exploring the city on your own , breakfast/lunch, bottomless mimosas and a limited-edition go-cup.

Participants leave with their own framed “fabric picture.” Best of all is four fun-filled days spent basking in Antieau’s brilliance.

Put a bow on it.

ALEX BEARD STUDIO This gallery features the

works of resident artist Alex Beard, whose intricate drawings and paintings have been acquired by such collectors as Mick Jagger and England’s late Princess Margaret. www.alexbeardstudio.com. 608 Julia St., 504.309.0394. Map 3, C5 ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’

leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. www.arthurrogergallery.com.

432-434 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5 BOYD SATELLITE GALLERY Local multimedia artist

Blake Boyd finally has a room of his own—and a place for his friends to hang as well. Regional and international artists are featured, along with Boyd’s own offbeat works. www.boydsatellitegallery.com.

440 Julia St., 504.581.2440. Map 3, C6 BRAND NEW ORLEANS ART GALLERY Contem-

porary Louisiana artists, both established and emerging, are spotlighted here. Works by Michael Guidry, Bob Graham and others are featured. www.brandartnola.com. 646 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.509.6598. Map 3, D6 CALLAN CONTEMPORARY This chic gallery

offers contemporary works by American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. www.

JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY This

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

STELLA JONES GALLERY New Orleans’

preeminent exhibition space for AfricanAmerican artists, featuring works by Elizabeth Catlett and Richmond Barthé, among others. www.stellajonesgallery.com. 201 St. Charles Ave., #132, 504.568.9050. Map 3, D4

wheretraveler.com

gallery is home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. www.jonathanferraragallery.com. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6 LEMIEUX GALLERIES Contemporary paintings,

sculpture, pottery, jewelry and glassware are among the media exhibited here. www.lemieuxgalleries.com. 332 Julia St., 504.522.5988. Map 3, C6 MARTINE CHAISSON GALLERY Contemporary

is the key word here, from the sleek space itself to the cutting-edge creations on its walls. www. martinechaissongallery.com. 727 Camp St., 504.302.7942. Map 3, C5 OCTAVIA ART GALLERY This contemporary space

spotlights local and international artists working in a wide range of media, including paintings by James Henderson, sculpture by Wayne Amedee and photography by Joe ZammitLucia. www.octaviaartgallery.com. 454 Julia St., 504.309.4249. Map 3, C6 SOREN CHRISTENSEN GALLERY Paintings, sculp-

ture and photography by nationally recognized as well as emerging contemporary artists is the focus here. www.sorengallery.com. 400 Julia St., 504.569.9501. Map 3, C6

French Quarter A GALLERY FOR FINE PHOTOGRAPHY The city’s

most extensive collection of fine art photographs for sale. Artists represented here include Ansel Adams, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Herman Leonard and Yousuf Karsh, among others. www.agallery. com. 241 Chartres St., 504.568.1313. Map 3, F4 ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quar-

ter’s leading contemporary art galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Woodrow Nash, Steve Taylor, Charles Thysell and Patterson & Barnes. www.angelakinggallery.com.

241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4 ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris Roberts-Anti-

eau’s offbeat textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her New Orleans galleries. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. www.antieaugallery.com. 927 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, H4; 4532 Magazine St., 504.510.4148. Map 1, D4 ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE A bit of southern

France on Royal Street, featuring 17th- and 18thcentury antiques, including armoires, chandeliers,

NIGHT GALLERY: Local crafters display their wares during the nocturnal Frenchmen Art Market (619 Frenchmen St.), Thur.-Mon., 8 pm-midnight.

©SHAWN FINK

Central Business/ Warehouse District

callancontemporary.com. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6

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GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

limestone fountains and a huge selection of olive jars. www.antiquesdeprovencellc.com. 623 Royal St., 504.529.4342. Map 3, G4; 611 & 619 Royal St. Map 3, G4 BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority

of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on site. www.bevolo. com. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4 CALLAN FINE ART Specializing in fine European

paintings from 1830 to 1950, this prestigious gallery features museum-quality examples from the Academic, Barbizon, Impressionistic and Post-Impressionist movements as well as select contemporary works. www.callanfineart.com. 240 Chartres St., 504.524.0025. Map 3, F4 CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig

Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the award-winning bodypainter enhances with intricate imagery then captures on film.

Limited-edition photographs and giclée prints are offered. www.craigtracy.com. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4 FOUNDATION GALLERY This gallery is as in-

novative as the Louisiana artists it spotlights.

A portion of proceeds from monthly rotating exhibits benefits New Orleans nonprofits. www. foundationgallerynola.com. 1109 Royal St., 504.568.0955. Map 3, H4

FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHYAward-winning

photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. www.frankrelle.com. 910 Royal St., 504.388.7601. Map 3, H4 FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this

shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. www.gofrenchantiques.com. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4 GALLERY ORANGE Modern-minded collectors will

be drawn in by the fresh contemporary works at this super-hip gallery. A vibrant mix of local and international artists, both emerging and established, is featured. www.gallery-orange.com. 819 Royal St., 504.875.4006. Map 3, H4 HALLBARNETT GALLERY During the 1980s,

Howard Barnett shook things up with one of the first contemporary galleries in the Quarter. Today daughter Holly continues her father’s legacy with an eclectic mix of emerging and established artists. www.hallbarnett.com. 237 Chartres St., 504.522.5657. Map 3, F4 HAROUNI GALLERY David Harouni has an eye for

heads, as evidenced by the paintings that populate his gallery. Harouni’s expressionistic oilworks and sculptures have been exhibited worldwide, but you’ll find them—along with the artist—at his

French Quarter studio. www.harouni.com. 933 Royal St., 504.299.4393. Map 3, H4 HARRIS ANTIQUES One of the finest antiquaries in

the Quarter, carrying an extensive array of French and English antiques, paintings, Oriental rugs and statuary. www.harrisantiques.com. 233 Royal St., 504.523.1605. D4 IDA MANHEIM ANTIQUES This impressive show-

room features 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century French, English, Dutch and Continental furniture. You’ll also discover a selection of fine paintings and porcelain, in addition to statuary. www.idamanheimantiques. com. 409 Royal St., 504.620.4114. Map 3, F4 JACK SUTTON ANTIQUES The Sutton family has

been one of Royal Street’s most prominent since 1915. This emporium is an elegantly decorated living room filled with 19th- and 20th-century decorative antiques, vintage watches, fine jewelry, dinnerware and paintings. 315 Royal St., 504.522.0555. Map 3, F4 KAKO GALLERY Original Louisiana art is this

offbeat gallery’s draw. Paintings, photos, prints, woodturnings, jazz-themed pottery, bottlecap-covered crosses—you’ll find it all and then some. www.kakogallery.com. 536 Royal St., 504.565.5445. Map 3, G4 KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s estab-

lished its reputation with rare 18th- and 19thcentury French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and

h ! s t u n 1-800-414-7941 WadePecans.com

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THE GUIDE

michalopoulos.com

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, accessibility, etc.

617 Bienville Street | New Orleans

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 85-87.

Index Central Business/Warehouse District ................................ 50

French Quarter ...................................................................................... 50 Magazine Street & Uptown..............................................................54 Collectives ................................................................................................. 55 Other Locations .................................................................................... 55

fine jewelry. www.keilsantiques.com. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4 KURT E. SCHON LTD. This fine art gallery deals

in international oil paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries for collectors, museums and investors. www.kurteschonltd.com. 510 St. Louis St., 504.524.5462. Map 3, F5

TRACKS OF MY TEARS 39 X 27

LUCKY ROSE GALLERY Devoted to the stunning

porcelain sculpture of artist-owner Cathy Rose, who often incorporates repurposed pieces of New Orleans into her works. www.cathyrose.com. 840 Royal St., 504.309.8000. Map 3, H4 LUCULLUS An antique shop specializing in

objects for almost every culinary passion. Fine dining tables, porcelain and silver, 19th-century glassware, rustic farmhouse implements and bistro equipment are among the offerings. www.lucullusantiques.com. 610 Chartres St., 504.528.9620. Map 3, G4

ANTIQUES DE PROVENCE, llc FRENCH INTÉRIEURS & JARDINS

M CONTEMPORARY Resident artist Frederick

Guess painting on site will draw you into this gallery, where George Alexander’s ceramic sculptures and Andrew Blanchard’s prints on panel will make you linger a while. www.handselgallery.com. 906 Royal St., 504.523.2022. Map 3, H4 M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family

business is one of the country’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. M.S. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks, watches and quality jewelry. www.rauantiques.com. 630 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4 MAISON ROYALE Original impressionistic and post-

impressionistic oilworks are the focus here. Featured artists include Camille Pisarro, Maurice Utrillo and Raoul Dufy, among others. www.maisonroyale. com. 501 Royal St., 504.524.5045. Map 3, F4 MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERY This branch of the

nationwide Martin Lawrence galleries features contemporary paintings, sculpture and limitededition graphics by such renowned artists as Picasso, Chagall, Dali, Miró, Warhol, Haring and Erté, among others. www.martinlawrence.com. 433 Royal St., 504.299.9055. Map 3, F4 MARTIN WELCH ART Martin “the Crab Man” Welch

has been capturing crustaceans on canvas since 2002. His brightly hued, sea-themed works have been showcased at the New Orleans Museum

French Antiques • Mirrors • GArden & LiGhtinG • Art new soFA showrooM

uphoLstered And sLip-covered

623 royAL street

French quArter

new orLeAns

504.529.4342 Antiquesdeprovence.coM

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GALLERIES+ANTIQUES

of Art as well as on the HBO series “Treme.” www.martinwelchart.com. 223 Dauphine St., 504.388.4240. Map 3, F3 MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural

renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. www.michalopoulos.com. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4 MOSS ANTIQUES Fine art objects fill this gallery,

which offers jewelry, porcelain, humidors and cigar accessories. Merchandise here comes primarily from England and France. www.mossantiques.com.

411 Royal St., 504.522.3981. Map 3, F4 NEW ORLEANS SILVERSMITHS Since 1938, this

Chartres Street boutique has specialized in antique and modern gold, platinum and sterling silver jewelry, in addition to a wide range of antique and new silver and silverplate. A large selection of estate jewelry is also offered. www. neworleanssilversmiths.com. 600 Chartres St., 504.522.8333. Map 3, G4 RED TRUCK GALLERY “Beautiful, unexpected art”

by contemporary up-and-comers will make you want to park here for a while. www.redtruckgallery. com. 938 Royal St., 504.231.6760. Map 3, H4 RODRIGUE STUDIO This French Quarter landmark

is devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular “Blue

Dog” series are available. www.georgerodrigue. com. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4 TRESOR GALLERY Offbeat illustration, macabre

assemblage dolls, quirky circus banners: If it’s edgy and eclectic, you’ll spot it here. Works by both local and national artists are featured in a wide range of media. www.tresorgallery.com. 811 Royal St., 504.309.3991. Map 3, H4 VINTAGE 329 A mecca for history and Hollywood

buffs, this hip shop is filled with maps, signed collectibles and one-of-a-kind jewelry. Marilyn Monroe glamour pics, first-edition novels and assorted music memorabilia are among the many offerings.

329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4 WINDSOR FINE ART This gallery features fine works

in a variety of media by the great masters, from Durer to Rembrandt, as well as modern masters such as Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro and Dali, along with original works by Toulouse-Lautrec. Contemporary Spanish impressionist Royo and Chilean minimalist Jose Basso complement the collection, along with sculpture by Richard McDonald, Martin Eichinger and Paige Bradley. www.windsorfineart. com. 221 Royal St., 504.586.0202. Map 3, F4

Magazine Street & Uptown

Browse among tea services, goblets and more. www.asyoulikeitsilvershop.com. 3033 Magazine St., 504.897.6915. Map 1, D4 CAROL ROBINSON GALLERY Spotlighting local

and national artists such as Jere Allen, Karen Jacobs and Elliot Snellings, this gallery showcases paintings, sculpture and ceramics. www. carolrobinsongallery.com. 840 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.6130. Map 1, D4 COLE PRATT GALLERY One of Magazine Street’s

leading contemporary galleries, exhibiting works by emerging local and national artists, from post-impressionists to abstract expressionists. www.coleprattgallery.com. 3800 Magazine St., 504.891.6789. Map 1, D4 GARDEN DISTRICT GALLERY This gallery, located

near Commander’s Palace restaurant, features rotating exhibits by local, regional and national artists. www.gardendistrictgallery.com. 1332 Washington Ave., 504.891.3032. Map 1, D4 KEVIN STONE ANTIQUES This dealer scours Euro-

pean estate sales for unusual 18th- and 19th-century antiques. The inventory here runs the gamut from fine furnishings to decorative accessories. www.kevinstoneantiques.com. 3420 Magazine St., 504.891.8282. Map 1, D4 SARAH ASHLEY LONGSHORE GALLERYStep into

AS YOU LIKE IT SILVER SHOP This shop stocks silver

flatware in hundreds of active and inactive patterns to complete an existing set or begin a new one.

this Uptown studio, with it pop-art paintings, giant lipstick sculptures and statement-making furniture, and you’ll understand why Elle calls

GEORGE DUNBAR: ELEMENTS OF CHANCE NOVEMBER 4, 2016 – FEBRUARY 19, 2017 APRIL 22 – AUGUST 1, 2016

George Dunbar, Untitled, c. 1950 – 60, Metal leaf on panel, New Orleans Museum of Art, Gift of Arthur Aitkens, 97.26

79-0916 George Dunbar Where half pg ad.indd 1

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THE GUIDE

Longshore “New Orleans’ Most Badass Artist.” www.ashleylongshore.com. 4537 Magazine St., 504.333.6951. Map 1, D4 THOMAS MANN GALLERY I/O This innovative de-

sign gallery is the showplace of “techno-romantic” designer Thomas Mann. In addition to works by Mann and other contemporary metalsmiths, you’ll find lamps and fine furnishings by a variety of designers. www.thomasmann.com. 1812 Magazine St., 504.581.2113. Map 1, D4 WIRTHMORE ANTIQUES Who needs Paris when

there’s Wirthmore Antiques? Francophiles delight in the fine 18th- and 19th-century French Provincial antiques and objects related to French culture found here. www.wirthmoreantiques.com. 3727 Magazine St., 504.269.0660 Map 1, D4

Collectives ARTISTS’ MARKET & BEAD SHOP Looking for un-

discovered talent? You’ll likely find it at this gallery, which features works by dozens of regional artists.

Handmade jewelry and beads are also offered. www.artistsmarketnola.com. 85 French Market Pl., 504.561.0046. Map 3, I5 ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS This showcase

for local crafters, conducted by the Arts Council of New Orleans, takes place the last Saturday of each month in Mid-City’s Palmer Park. Works by more than 100 artists are featured. www.artscouncilofneworleans.org. Palmer Park (Carrollton and Claiborne avenues), 504.523.1465. Map 1, C3 DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ COOP This popular

artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. www. dutchalleyartistsco-op.com. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5 RHINO CONTEMPORARY CRAFT CO. The acronym

that is this gallery’s name stands for “Right Here in New Orleans.” That means artists represented here are local, displaying work such as handcrafted fashions, furnishings and accessories. www.rhinocrafts.com. The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 2nd fl., 504.523.7945. Map 3, E5

Other Locations FRENCHMEN ART MARKET This plein air art market

fills an alley tucked among Frenchmen Street’s famed music halls. From handcrafted jewelery to handmade soaps to folk art, you’ll find an eclectic range of local artist’s wares. Open Th-Su, 7 pm-1 am. 619 Frenchmen St., 504.941.1149. Map 3, J5 ROSETREE GLASS STUDIO Located in historic

Algiers Point in a renovated art deco building, this gallery features works by owner Mark Rosenbaum and others dealing in blown glass. www.rosetreegallery.com. 446 Vallette St., 504.366.3602. Map 3, G8 STUDIO BE Breakout artist Brandan Odums’

giant graffiti-style murals are the perfect fit for this massive warehouse space in the Bywater neighborhood. The evocative collection explores African-American life, from the Civil Rights era to the Black Lives Matter movement, through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr. and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Sa, 2-8 pm. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3

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ART & EY&S

3708 Magazine St. 504-891-4494

artandeyesnola.com

Be Thankful!.......

.....that you are vision impaired

INDY EYEWEAR LIKE NOWHERE ELSE

Jean Philippe Joly made in France

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made in Beguim.

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THE GUIDE

Entertainment

A Day at the Races

Let’s Get Real

For most American families Thanksgiving means a heated game of touch football in the backyard while mom prepares the Rockwellian turkey and grandma’s stuffing. In New Orleans, the typical turkey gives way to turducken (a chicken tucked inside a duck wedged inside a bird), the stuffing gets loaded with seafood and the day’s sport of choice is playing the ponies. A pilgrimage to the New Orleans Fair Grounds Race Course (p. 58) has been on local Turkey Day menus since 1923, and that tradition continues Nov. 24 with Thoroughbred racing beginning at 12:30 pm and the clubhouse offering a full Thanksgiving buffet. Bet you don’t do that back home.

Cutting-edge theater, performance art, music and magic are all a part of the Faux/Real Festival of the Arts, which kicks off Nov. 3 with Grammy-winning jazz bassist Esperanza Spalding (shown) at the Orpheum Theater (p. 68). The 10-day affair offers 30 performances at venues citywide; for a full schedule, visit fauxrealnola.com.

ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the late jazz great

Louis Armstrong, this recently refurbished 34acre green space, peppered with scupltures of other local music legends, is home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts. Also known as Congo Square, it was here that free people of color would gather during the 1700s to dance and drum—and where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM OF THE AMERICAS This

award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $24.95 adults, $18.95 seniors and $18.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times.

This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. $23.95 adults, $18.95 seniors and $17.95 ages 2-12. Open daily at 10 am; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 AUDUBON BUTTERFLY GARDEN AND INSECTA RIUM Located in the circa-1860 U.S. Custom

House, this ranks as the nation’s largest museum devoted to insects. More than 70 interactive exhibits are featured, along with thousands of live and mounted species. $19.95 adults, $14.95 seniors, $14.95 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 423 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E5

picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. www. auduboninstitute.org. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4

There’s a lot more going onthis thisOctober. month. on Visit us online: wheretraveler.com

AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800

animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the finest zoos in the U.S. $19.95 adults, $14.95 seniors, $14.95 ages 2-12. A free shuttle departs from St. Charles streetcar stop 36. Opens at 10 am daily; call for closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629 or 800.774.7394. Map 1, C4 CEMETERIES New Orleans’ aboveground “cities

of the dead” act as windows on the past, offering insight into local history and customs. St. Louis No. 1, just outside the Quarter, is the city’s oldest; Lafayette No. 1 in the Garden District draws fans of vampire novelist Anne Rice, who set a number of her works there. Many are located in high-crime areas. Tours are available; do not venture in alone, day or night.

CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD & NATIONAL CEM ETERYJust down the river from where Andrew

Jackson’s statue stands in the square that bears his name is the battlefield where he fought the last battle of the War of 1812. History buffs can check out the visitors center, listen to daily ranger talks, explore Chalmette Nartional Cemetery,

or relax under the park’s live oaks. https://www.nps.gov/jela/chalmettebattlefield.htm. 8606 W St Bernard Hwy., 504.281.0510. Map 1, F3

CHAMPIONS SQUAREThis open-air venue, adjacent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome, boasts 45,000 sq. ft. and state-of-the-art technology. The space plays host to free fan fests during New Orleans Saints home games and numerous concerts throughout the year. www.champions-square.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3822. Map 3, B2 CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush

canopy for this 1,500-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. www. neworleanscitypark.com. 1 Dreyfous Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 CLUE CARRÉ One of a growing number of “escape”

games around the city, Clue Carré offers a variety of NOLA-themed rooms (Mardi Gras, Voodoo, Haunted Swamp) that can accommodate up to 10 players. www.cluecarre.com. 830 Union St., Suite 101, 504.667.2583. Map 3, D4 CRESCENT PARK Looking for a unique view of the

city? Hop on the Elysian Fields Avenue elevator or climb the arching footbridge at Piety and Chartres streets, and stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade. Stretching from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood, the park offers jogging and biking paths, a dog run and picture-perfect picnic areas www.crescentparknola.org. Map 3, J6

ALL CAP MORE THAN LEAD 100 INMILES Myriad Pro of dedicated Light SemiExtended bicycle lanes 8pthave dummy beentext added herearound for dummy New Orleans text here over forthe dummy past text decade, heremaking for dummy it onetext of the or dummy nation’s most bike-friendly cities.

(LEFT) ©NEW ORLEANS FAIR GROUNDS RACE COURSE; (RIGHT) ©BOND MOROCH

Attractions & Landmarks

AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or

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ENTERGY GIANT SCREEN THEATER Eye-popping

PIANO LOUNGE • PATIO • RESTAURANT

EAT, DRINK &

features are shown on a five-and-a-half-story screen. $10.50 adults, $9.50 seniors, $8 ages 2-12.

Opens at 10 am daily; call for schedule and closing times. Eye-popping features are shown on a five-and-a-half-story screen. $10.50 adults, $9.50 seniors, $8 ages 2-12. Opens at 10 am daily; call for schedule and closing times. www.auduboninstitute.org. Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6 ESCAPE MY ROOMThe concept of this live, interac-

tive game is simple—solve the puzzle within an hour and you and your teammates “escape” the mystery room—but it’s way more complex (and fun) than that. A great activity for families and group team-building. Reservations required. www.escapemyroom.com. 633 Constance St., 504.475.7580. Map 3, D6 FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market

dates to pre-colonial days, when the site served as a native American trading post. Along with homegrown specialties, the market also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. www.frenchmarket.org. French Market Place, 504.522.2621. Map 3, H5 FULTON ALLEY Putting a fresh spin on the old

bowling alley, this upscale venue offers 12 lanes in a sleek setting, along with an indoor game parlor (bocce, foosball, etc.), cool craft cocktails and big-flavored small plates. Not a bowler? Not a prob. Both the bar and restaurant are accessible separately from the alley. www.fultonalley.com.

600 Fulton St., 504.208.5569. Map 3, D6 HARRAH’S CASINO The South’s largest casino is

located at the foot of Canal Street. This mammoth pleasure palace features five New Orleansthemed areas comprising 2,100 slots and 104 table games, live entertainment and a lavish buffet. www.harrahsneworleans.com. 8 Canal St., 504.533.6000. Map 3, E6 JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the Quarter was

originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. A quintessential photo op. Decatur St. at St. Ann St. Map 3, G5 JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK AND PRESERVE On this 23,000-acre area of protected

wetlands, you’ll get to see egrets, cranes, pelicans and alligators in their natural habitat. Wooden walkways allow you to explore deep into the swamp. www.nps.gov/jela. 6588 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, 504.589.3882.

LAFITTE GREENWAYThis 2.6-mile bike and pedes-

trian trail connects Armstrong Park to City Park.

The ADA-compliant green corridor offers quiet retreat in the heart of the city. www.lafittegreenway.org. Map 3, F2 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year

long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. The tour features a video on the history of Mardi Gras. $19.95 adults, $15.95 seniors/students/military, $12.95 ages 12-2. Tours daily, 9:30 am-4:30 pm. www. mardigrasworld.com. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8

EST. 1933. LOCALLY OWNED WWW.PATOBRIENS.COM

MERCEDESBENZ SUPERDOME The recently re-

vamped and rebranded Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints, remains the largest covered arena in the world. www.mbsuperdome.com. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 57

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Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours accessibility, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 3, F4, etc.) apply to coordinates on the maps on pages 85-87.

Index Attractions & Landmarks ................................................................56 Cooking Classes .....................................................................................59 Cruises & Tours .......................................................................................59 Golf Courses ..............................................................................................64 Museums & Exhibits .......................................................................... 64 Performing Arts .................................................................................... 67 Cocktails ...................................................................................................... 68 Dance Clubs................................................................................................70 Live Entertainment ............................................................................ 70

NATIONAL SHRINE OF BLESSED FRANCIS SEELOS

Located one block from the Magazine Street shopping corridor, this popular pilgrimage site—a sanctuary of hospitality, hope and healing—is located in historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church, Louisiana’s oldest German Catholic church. Free tours of the shrine and museum are offered M-F, 9 am-3 pm; Sa, 10 am-3:30 pm. Large groups by appointment. www.seelos.org. 919 Josephine St., 504.525.2495. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS BOTANICAL & TRAIN GARDENS

City Park’s beautiful Botanical Gardens feature more than 2,000 tropical and subtropical plants, along with the Historic Train Garden, a miniature railroad exhibit. Open Tu-Su, 10 am-4:30 pm; train garden, weekends only. $6 adults, $3 children. www.neworleanscitypark.com. Victory Ave., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS FAIR GROUNDS RACE COURSE In

operation since 1872, this ranks as the nation’s third-oldest Thoroughbred race course.

The site serves as home base for the annual New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival. www. fairgroundsracecourse.com. 1751 Gentilly Blvd., 504.944.5515. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE CENTER

Housed in a former funeral home, this facility breathes new life into New Orleans jazz with seven classrooms providing instruction to local musicians, recordings studios and a state-of-theart performance space. www.jazzandheritagecenter.org. 1205 N. Rampart St., 504.558.6100.

504.558.6100.. Map 3, G3 NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MARKET Part concert hall/

coffee shop/community center, this multifaceted facility throws the spotlight on both the city’s jazz legends and rising stars. phnojm.org. 1436 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.371.5849. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS MUSICAL LEGENDS PARK This

pocket-size park celebrates Bourbon Street’s bigger-than-life musical legacy with statues of Al Hirt, Pete Fountain and others. An on-site café and bar offers cool libations, lite bites and, naturally, live music. www.neworleansmusicallegends.com.

311 Bourbon St., 504.588.7608. Map 3, F4 NOLA MOTORSPORTS PARK Racing fans, start

your engines. This state-of-the-art facility of-

fers car and motorcycle tracks geared for both competitive and recreational use, along with kart rentals and racing. www.nolamotor.com. 11075 Nicolle Blvd., Avondale, 504.302.4875.

OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is

the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors, $3 students; ages 6 and under free. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 1100 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4 PONTALBA BUILDINGS Erected in 1851, the stately

red-brick townhouses flanking Jackson Square rank as the first apartment complex in the United States. Inspired by the Palais-Royal and the Place des Vosges in Paris, the twin buildings feature apartments upstairs, retail spaces below and ornate cast-iron galleries. Map 3, G5 PORT OF NEW ORLEANS More than a million pas-

sengers pass through the Crescent City’s cruise terminal each year, making it one of the most popular destinations in the nation to embark/ disembark. www.portno.com. 1350 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.2551. Map 3, D8 SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Super-

dome, the Center is the home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. www.smoothiekingcenter.com.

1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, A2 ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH Founded by free people

of color in 1841, St. Augustine, located in the historic Tremé neighborhood adjacent to the French Quarter, is the second-oldest African-American Catholic Church in the nation. www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org. 1210 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.525.5934 Map 3, I2 ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in

1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral, the heart and symbol of New Orleans, was designated a minor basilica in 1964 by Pope Paul VI, and visited by Pope John Paul II in 1987. Mass said daily. An on-site gift shop offers rosaries, statues and other keepsakes. www.stlouiscathedral.org. 615 Pere Antoine Alley (Jackson Square, between St. Ann and St. Peter streets), 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4 THE THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE This state-

of-the-art movie theater offers nine separate screens, along with in-seat dining from its in-house Gusto Café and Bar. www.thetheatres.com.

The Shops at Canal Place, 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.493.6535. Map 3, E5 WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront prom-

enade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas to Jackson Square, affords great people-watching and even greater views of the often-overlooked Mississippi. Map 3, F6

Cooking Classes CRESCENT CITY COOKS! Learn the secrets

of New Orleans-style cuisine from chefs who conduct two-hour classes daily (10 am), and taste the results afterward during lunch; prices vary.

Hands-on classes are also offered, along with a large selection of spices and culinary utensils. www.crescentcitycooks.com. 201 Chartres St., 504.529.1600. Map 3, F4 LANGLOIS CULINARY CROSSROADS Cookbook

author and radio host Amy Cryex-Sims offers entertaining interactive classes covering both

Creole and Cajun fundamentals and contemporary techniques. A full meal is included with each class, along with recipes. Culinary tours are also available. www.langloisnola.com. 1841 N. Rampart St., 504.934.1010. Map 1, E3 NEW ORLEANS COOKING EXPERIENCE Helmed by

local chef Frank Brigtsen, this company, housed in the Southern Food and Beverage Museum, offers instructional classes of various lengths to help you master Creole and Cajun cuisine. www. thenoce.com. 1803 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 504.430.5274. Map 1, D3 NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING & LOUISI ANA GENERAL STORE Creole/Cajun cooking

demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Private group and hands-on sessions are also available; reservations required. The store is open M-Sa, 9 am-6 pm; Su 9 am-5 pm. www.nosoc.com.

524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5

Cruises & Tours A BICYCLE NAMED DESIRE Located at the address

of Stanley and Stella Kowalski’s fictional residence, this bike shop (an offshoot of Confederacy of Cruisers) provides “rentals for the independent traveler.” Half, full, multi-day and weekly rates are offered. www.abicyclenameddesire.com. 632 Elysian Fields Ave., 504.345.8966. Map 3, J5 ADVENTURES OF JEAN LAFITTE Follow in the

footsteps of pirate Jean Lafitte. Combo tours include an interactive movie, pirate museum, guided nature walk and 45-minute swamp boat tour. Transportation available; prices vary. www. adventuresofjeanlafitte.com. 504.689.7009.

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Explore secluded areas

of south Louisiana swamplands via guided, highspeed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Big boat, $55; small boat, $75. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. www.airboatadventures.com. 504.689.2005 or 888.GO.SWAMP. AMERICAN PHOTO SAFARI This combination

sightseeing tour/photography class, led by professional photogs, guides visitors on jaunts around the picturesque French Quarter, noting points of visual interest while offering how-to tips for shutterbugs of all skill levels. www.americanphotosafari.com. 877.365.3836.

BLOODY MARY’S TOURS Voodoo historian Bloody

Mary, who the Travel Channel calls “a spiritual Indiana Jones,” offers a variety of tours exploring New Orleans historic haunts, from Moonlight Graveyard excursions to Tours of the Undead. Customized outings, rituals and spirit encounters are also available. Times and prices vary; call for details.

Reservations required. www.bloodymarystours. com. 504.915.7774. Map 3, H5 CAJUN ENCOUNTERS Daily tours for both large

and small groups are offered, along with hotel pickups and drop-offs. Call for times, prices and reservations. Honey Island Swamp Tour –2 hrs. City Cemeteries Tour –2 hrs. Oak Alley & Laura Plantation Tour –4 hrs. www.cajunencounters.com.

55345 Hwy. 90, Slidell, 504.834.1770. Map 2, G1 CAJUN PRIDE SWAMP TOURS Daily tours at 9:30

am, noon and 2:15 pm. $46 adults; $22 children.

City, cemetery and plantation tours are also offered. Reservations required. www.cajunprideswamptours.com. 110 Frenier Rd., Laplace, La., 800.467.0758. Map 2, E2

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CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES Explore Lake

Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did. Daily three-hour, eco-friendly canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with moonlight and twilight outings. Transportation available; prices vary. www.canoeandtrail.com.

504.233.0686.

CELEBRATION DISTILLATION TOURS The mak-

ers of Old New Orleans Rum offer tours of their facility—the oldest premium distillery continually operating in the United States—M-F (noon, 2 and 4 pm) and Sa-Su (2 and 4 pm). Get a taste of the distillation process...and of the company’s awardwinning spirits. Reservations recommended. Grab a cab. $10; 21+ only. www.oldneworleansrum.com.

2815 Frenchmen St., 504.945.9400. Map 1, E2 CELEBRATION TOURS This company provides

group city and plantation tours, in addition to private excursions. Hotel pickups available; rates vary. www.celebrationtoursllc.com. 504.587.7115.

CITY SEGWAY TOURS Why walk when you can

glide? Guided two- and three-hour Segway tours of the French Quarter and Tremé are offered daily. Private excursions are also available. www.citysegwaytours.com. 214 Decatur St., 877.734.8687. Map 3, E5 CITY SIGHTSEEING This fun and informative dou-

ble-decker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again—at top attractions throughout the city. The open-top buses run a continuous loop every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. Unlimited

sightseeing for up to three days, plus three free walking tours. Adults, $44; children (12 and under), $10. www.citysightseeingneworleans.com. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200 ; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5 CONFEDERACY OF CRUISERS These guided

bicycle tours take visitors out of the French Quarter and into some of the city’s most vibrant and unexplored nabes. Cocktail and culinary excursions are also offered, along with customized bike tours. www.confederacyofcruisers.com. 634 Eylsian Fields Ave., 504.400.5468. Map 3, J5 CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour

Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and 3-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). www.creolequeen.com. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7 CRESCENT CITY BIKE TOURS These three-hour

guided bike rides explore the French Quarter and Tremé neighborhoods, along with Armstrong Park and the Mississippi riverfront. Tours are $49; rentals are $25/day. www.crescentcitybiketours.com. 626 N. Rampart St., 504.322.3455. Map 3, G3 CRESCENT CITY HISTORIC TOURSThese fun and

informative walking tours, offered Tu-Su, take visitors off the beaten French Quarter path. All tours depart from 834 Rampart St.; meet guides 10 minutes prior to tour time. $25. Private customized excursions are also available. Marigny –10 am. Treme –12: 30 pm. Voodoo & Vice –5:30 pm

(adults only). www.crescentcityhistorictours.com.

504.321.3839. Map 3, H3 DRINK & LEARN Culinary historian Elizabeth Pearce

leads these fun and informative tippling tours. The New Orleans Experience (“three centuries in five drinks in two hours”) is a sit-down affair at Broussard’s elegant Empire Bar, while the Cocktail Tour roams the French Quarter. www.drinkandlearn. com. 504.578.8280.

FLIGHT ACADEMY OF NEW ORLEANS Get a

bird’s-eye view of the Crescent City and surrounding bayous with one of these popular aerial tours. Sunset wine-and-cheese excursions and champagne flights for two are featured, along with customized tours. Call for prices and availability. www.877flynola.com. 6101 G. Bellanca St., Ste. 200, 504.241.9131 ; 877.FLY.NOLA. Map 1, E1 FRENCH QUARTER HISTORY & GHOSTBUSTER TOURSThis company offers a variety of experiences, from cemetery explorations to the Ultimate French Quarter History & Ghostbuster Tour, which

departs nightly at 7:30 pm. Group and customized excursions by request. Call for tour times and availability. www.frenchquarterhistorytours.com. 622 1/2 Pirates Alley, 504.561.8687. Map 3, G4 FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS TOURS All tours

depart from The Voodoo Lounge (718 N. Rampart Street), run about two hours and cover close to one mile. Custom and private excursions are also available. Reservations required. Ghost & Vampire Tour –$20. Departs nightly, 6 and 8 pm. St. Louis

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#1 Cemetery Tour –$20. Departs M-Sa at 11 am; Su at 10 am. Tremé Tour –$22. Departs daily at 10 am. True Crime Tour –$20. Departs Th-Su at 6 pm.

www.frenchquarterphantoms.com. 625 St. Philip St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4 FRENCH QUARTOUR KIDS These hour-and-a-half

guided walks take children on a journey back in time through the streets of the historic Vieux Carré. Tours offered Sa-Su, 10 and 11:30 am, and by appointment. Call for reservations and locations. www.frenchquartourkids.com. 504.975.5355.

FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Informative, two-hour

walking tours of the French Quarter are offered Tu-Su at 10 am and 1:30 pm. $20 adults, $15 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. www.friendsofthecabildo.org. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5 GRAY LINE TOURS Gray Line offers a variety of city

tours, all departing from the ticket booth behind Jax Brewery.Super City Tour –2 hrs. Hurricane Katrina Tour –3 hrs. Paddle & Wheel Tour –4 hrs.

Katrina/City Tour –3.5 hrs. Double Plantation Tour –7.25 hrs. Oak Alley Plantation –5 hrs. Whitney Plantation –5 hrs. French Quarter Walking Tour –2 hrs. Ghosts & Spirits Walking Tour –2 hrs. Cemetery & VooDoo Walking Tour –2 hrs. Garden District Walking Tour –2.75 hrs. Swamp & Bayou Tour –3.75 hrs. Airboat Tour –3.75 hrs.Original Cocktail Tour – 2.5 hrs. Plantation/Swamp Tour-5.5 hrs. For tickets and further information: www.graylineneworleans. com. 400 Toulouse St., 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5 HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Meet guides 15 min.

prior to tours. $25 adults, $18 seniors/students/military, $14 children under 12, free for children under 5. Voodoo & Cemetery, French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily, 10 am, and M-Sa, 1:15 pm, from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Haunted History/Ghost Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (6 and 8 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Voodoo Tour –1.5 hrs.

Departs F-Su nights (7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). Vampire Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (8:30 pm) from Jackson Square gates in front of St. Louis Cathedral. Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11:30 am) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Haunted Garden District Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (2:30 pm) from the Lafayette Cemetery gates (1400 block of Washington Ave.). Ghosts, Voodoo, Vampires, Witches/Occult, Unsolved Mysteries! All-in-One Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (5 pm

and 7:30 pm) from Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop (723 St. Peter St.). For tickets and further information: www.hauntedhistorytours.com. 504.861.2727.

HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS WALKING TOURS Histori-

cally informed walking tours, many led by author and former National Park ranger Robert Florence. $20 adults, $15 seniors/students, $7 children.

French Quarter History Tour –2 hrs. Departs 10:30 am and 5 pm daily from Café Beignet (311 Bourbon St.). Garden District/Cemetery Tour –2 hrs. Departs daily (11 am and 1:45 pm) from the Garden District Book Shop (2727 Prytania St.).Cemetery/Voodoo Tour –2 hrs. Departs M-Sa, 10 am and 1 pm; Su, 10 am; from Café Beignet (334B Royal St.). Haunted French Quarter Tour –2 hrs. Departs nightly (7:30 pm) from the Bourbon Oh bar inside the Bourbon Orleans Hotel (corner of Bourbon and Orleans streets).For tickets and further information: www. tourneworleans.com. 504.947.2120.

HONEY ISLAND SWAMP TOURS These profession-

ally narrated, two-hour tours are limited in size, allowing guides to maneuver small boats deep into scenic Honey Island Swamp, where you’ll see everything from live alligators to bald eagles. $23 adults, $15 children. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. Call for tour times and reservations. www.honeyislandswamp.com. 985.641.1769.

JEAN LAFITTE HISTORICAL TOURS These National

Park Service walking tours focus on the history of the Mississippi River Delta and depart 9:30 am daily (except Christmas and Mardi Gras). Tickets are free, but there is a 25-person limit per tour; pick up tickets after 9 am (one pass issued per person). www.nps.gov/jela. 419 Decatur St., 504.589.2636. Map 3, F5 JEAN LAFITTE SWAMP TOURS Located just 25

minutes from downtown, this privately owned company with trained guides provides an up-close look at local flora and fauna. Daily swamp and airboat tours (10 am, noon, 2 and 4 pm) are offered.

Transportation from area hotels available. www. jeanlafitteswamptour.com. 6601 Leo Kerner Lafitte Pkwy., Marrero, La., 504.529.4567.

LAFITTE’S BARATARIA MUSEUM & WETLAND TRACE Charting the 200-year backstory of the

town of Jean Lafitte, this museum explores the fishing village’s history and pirate lore through a variety of multimedia exhibits while also examining the effects of coastal erosion. A nature trail leads visitors through a mile and a half of cypress swamp. $12 adults, $6 children. www.townofjeanlafitte.com.

4917 City Park Dr., 504.689.7009.

LE MONDE CREOLE TOURS Based on the memoirs

of Creole heiress Laura Locoul (1861-1961), these guided walking tours lead visitors through private French Quarter courtyards, the historic New Orleans Pharmacy Museum, the Hermann-Grima House and St. Louis Cemetery #1. Tours are offered daily in English at 10:30 am, and in French, M, W, F and Su at 10 am. $24 adults, $16 students/ military. Cash only; reservations required. Departs from 622 Royal St. www.mondecreole.com.

504.568.1801. Map 3, G4 LET’S GO ANTIQUING TOURS Former teacher

Macon Riddle’s guided tours of New Orleans antiques emporiums are as much Crescent City history lessons as they are shopping excursions.

Riddle’s tours are taylored to collectors’ specific areas of interest. Reservations required. www. neworleansantiquing.com. 504.899.3027.

LIVERY TOURS This company offers a wide variety

of tours geared to just about every area of interest—city, swamp, plantation, cemetery, ghosts, you name it. Top attractions are also featured, along with airport shuttle service. Rates and times vary; call for more information. www.liverytours. com. 620 Decatur St., 504.561.1000. Map 3, G5 MAGIC TOURS These entertaining, two-hour

tours were named New Orleans’ best by the Toronto Star. $20 adults, $17 students/seniors/ military.St. Louis Cemetery #1 Tour: Departs daily at 10 am, and M-Sa at 1 pm, from 720 St. Louis St.French Quarter Tour: Departs daily at 4 pm from 720 St. Louis St.Garden District/Cemetery Tour: Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm from 2727 Prytania St.Ghost/Haunts/Voodoo Tour: Departs nightly at 8 pm from 720 St. Louis St.For tickets and further information: www.magictoursnola.com.

504.588.9693.

NEW ORLEANS CULINARY HISTORY TOURS Ex-

plore some of the city’s oldest restaurants and the evolution of New Orleans cuisine during this history and tasting tour. Departs at 2 pm daily; $46. www.noculinarytours.com. For tickets call, 504.875.6570.

NEW ORLEANS ELECTRIC CARSToo hot to hoof it

on foot? Tool around in one of these cool rentals instead. The easy-to-operate, all-electric vehicles seat up to six passengers. www.neworleanselectriccars.com. 235 Basin St., 504.274.2555. Map 3, F2 NEW ORLEANS FOOD AND FUN TOURS Custom-

ized to your areas of interest, these private walking tours accommodate up to four guests (ask for quotes for additional participants). Tours of the French Quarter, Garden District and CBD/Warehouse District are featured, in addition to a Vieux Carré Bar Crawl and Eat Dat Culinary Tour. Rates vary. www.foodandfuntours.com. 844.504.8687.

NEW ORLEANS JOGGING TOURS Get fit and

informed at the same time. Guided jogs through the French Quarter and Garden District are offered daily; customized tours are also available. Groups meet at the corner of Decatur and Barracks streets. www.neworleansjoggingtours.com. Map 3, I5 NEW ORLEANS LEGENDARY WALKING TOURS

Two-hour tours depart daily from 941 Decatur St.; meet guides 20 to 30 minutes prior to tour time. $25 adults, $15 children. French Quarter & Cemetery Tours –10 am and 1 pm. Ghost Tours –5:30 and 8 pm. www.neworleanslegendarywalkingtours. com. 941 Decatur St., 504.503.0199. Map 3, H5 PEARL RIVER ECOTOURS Tours of the Honey Is-

land swamp are offered daily at 10 am and 2:30 pm. $23 adults, $15 children. Transportation from New Orleans hotels is offered for an additional charge.

Reservations required www.pearlriverecotours. com. 866.597.9267.

ROCK ’N’ NOLA TOURS TThese guided, two-

hour walking tours explore the city’s musical heritage, from the roots of jazz to early opera to rock legends. Excursions offered include: Louis Armstrong’s New Orleans Tour, Roots of Jazz Tour, Roots of Rock Tour and A Locals Only: Custom Live Musical Heritage Tour. Call for times and prices. www.rocknnolatours.com. 713.302.8058.

SAVE OUR CEMETERIES Lafayette No. 1: departs

daily at 10:30 am from Washington Avenue gate (1400 block of Washington Ave.). $15; free 12 and under. St. Louis No. 1: departs daily at 10 am and Sa-Su at 1 pm from Basin Street Station Visitors Center (501 Basin St.). $20; free 12 and under.

Reservations recommended. www.saveourcemeteries.org. 504.525.3377.

SPIRIT TOURS These guided walking tours cover

close to a mile and run approximately one hour and 45 minutes. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. $25 adults; Garden District tour, $11 ages 12 and under. Ghost Tour-Departs nightly at 8:15 pm from 601 Royal St.Cemetery & Voodoo Tour-Departs M-Sa, 10:30 am & 1:15 pm; Su, 10:30 am from 719 Toulouse St.Garden District Tour-Departs Th-Su at 10 am (and by appointment) from the corner of St. Charles and First Street.For further information: www.spirittoursneworleans.com. 504.314.0806.

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steam-

boat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Sunday jazz brunch cruises, 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Cruises depart from Toulouse

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Street and the river in the French Quarter; call to verify availability. www.steamboatnatchez.com.

504.569.1401. Map 3, E7 TABASCO PEPPER SAUCE FACTORY TOUR Free

guided daily tours, 9 am-4 pm, except major holidays. www.tabasco.com. La. Hwy. 329, Avery Island, La., 337.365.8173. Map 2, C2 TOURS BY ISABELLE New Orleans’ oldest locally

run, family-owned tour company offers a variety of city, plantation and swamp excursions, along with combo packages. Hotel pickup and drop-off available. Times vary; prices range from $60 to $175. www.toursbyisabelle.com. 504.398.0365.

VIP CITY TOURS These two-hour excursions offer

a sweeping overview of the city, from the French Quarter and the Garden District to Lake Pontchartrain and the Lower 9th Ward. Tours conducted daily at 9 am, 1 and 4 pm. www.vipcitytours.com.

701 Canal St., 504.329.2489. Map 3, E4 VOODOO BONE LADY HAUNTED TOURS These

two-hour walking tours cover close to one mile. $25 adults, $20 seniors/students/military, $15 children under 12, free 5 and under. Reservations required.

All tours depart from 701 Royal Street; meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. 5-in-1 Ultimate Haunted Tour –Departs daily at 5 and 8 pm. Infamous City of the Dead Cemetery Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and M-Sa at 1 pm. Ultimate French Quarter Insider’s Tour –Departs daily at 10 am and 1 pm.

For tickets and further information: www.voodooboneladytours.com. 504.267.2040.

WHEEL FUN RENTALS This company offers a vari-

ety of ways to explore the French Quarter and City Park. Surrey, chopper, cruiser and tandem bikes are among the many cycles available for hourly rentals, in addition to kayaks, pedal boats, paddle boards and more. Open daily at 10 am. www. wheelfunrenatals.com. Big Lake Trail, City Park, 504.300.1289. Map 1, D2 WITCHES BREW TOURS Take a walk on New

Orleans’ macabre side; reservations required.4in-1 Walking Tour-Voodoo, vampires, spirits and witchcraft. Departs nightly at 5 and 8 pm from the courthouse steps at 400 Royal Street.French Quarter/Cemetery Tour-Departs M-Sa at 1 pm from Jackson Square.Haunted Carriage Tour-Available M-Sa.For tickets and further information: www. wtichesbrewtours.com. 504.413.3120.

Golf Courses AUDUBON PARK GOLF COURSE This course

in the middle of the park ensures a beautiful backdrop. The 18 holes (Par 62) are fun and fast. www.auduboninstitute.org. 6500 Magazine St., 504.212.5290. Map 1, C4 CARTER PLANTATION GOLF CLUB This Par 72

course, located one hour west of New Orleans, winds its way through wetlands, live oaks and pine forests. www.carterplantation.com. 23475 Carter Trace, Springfield, La., 225.294.7555. Map 2, E1 ENGLISH TURN GOLF COURSE This Jack

Nicklaus-designed course is 18 holes and Par 72,

with water at each play. Home to a New Orleans PGA stop, English Turn is rated as very challenging. www.englishturn.com. 1 Clubhouse Dr., 504.391.8018. Map 1, E3 LAKEWOOD GOLF CLUB This 18-hole, Par 72

course on New Orleans’ Westbank features modernized fairways, tee boxes and greens. www. lakewoodgolf.com. 4801 General De Gaulle Dr., 504.373.5926. Map 1, F4 STONEBRIDGE GOLF CLUB OF NEW ORLEANS

Located minutes from downtown, this 27-hole Westbank golf course features more than 100 sand traps and water hazards. Suited to all skill levels, the pristine course showcases the area’s waterways and wildlife. www.stonebridgegolfofno.com. 1500 Stonebridge Dr., Gretna, La., 504.394.1300. Map 1, E4 TPC LOUISIANA Spread over 250 acres on the

city’s West bank, just minutes from downtown, this 7,300-yard, Par 72 course is home to the Zurich Classic, and was rated one of the nation’s “Top 5 Best Courses” by Golf Digest. www. tpclouisiana.com. 11001 Lapalco Blvd., Avondale, 504.436.8721. Map 1, B4

Museums & Exhibits ABITA MYSTERY HOUSE This one requires a car,

but is well worth the price of a rental for outsider art fans. Housed in a former filling station in nearby Abita Springs, artist John Preble’s eccentric sendup of “redneck culture” features offbeat oddities

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Find the best of the city

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fashioned from more than 50,000 found objects. $3 (free 3 and under). Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. www.abitamysteryhouse.com. 22275 Hwy. 36, Abita Springs, 985.892.2624. Map 2, F1 BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM Located in a

former funeral parlor, this offbeat museum seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes are also on display.

Admission $8; open Tu-Sa, 10 am-5 pm. www. backstreetmuseum.org. 1116 Henriette Delille St., 504.522.4806. Map 3, I2 BEAUREGARDKEYES HOUSE This beautifully

restored 1826 villa and garden was the home of Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered hourly M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $10 adults, $9 seniors/students, $4 ages 6-12, under 6 free. www.bkhouse.org. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4 CONFEDERATE MEMORIAL HALL MUSEUM Estab-

lished in 1891 by Civil War vets and their families, this is Louisiana’s oldest continually operating museum and the second largest collection of Confederate memorabilia in the country. $8 adults, $5 ages 14 and under. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. www.confederatemuseum.com. 929 Camp St., 504.523.4522. Map 3, B6 CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier

modern art exhibit space features rotating exhibits and also hosts performances. $8; $6 seniors/stu-

dents. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. www.cacno.org.

900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6 DEGAS HOUSE The home where Edgar Degas

lived during his time in New Orleans is filled with prints of the French impressionist’s works. Twohour tours of the 1852 property, conducted by the artist’s great-grand-niece, are offered daily at 10:15 am and 1:30, and by appointment. $15. Reservations required. www.degashouse.com. 2306 Esplanade Ave., 504.821.5009. Map 1, D2 GALLIER HOUSE The 1857 home of renowned

New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s.Rated one of the country’s top museums

by The New York Times. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/ seniors/students. www.hgghh.org. 1132 Royal St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, I4 GEORGE AND LEAH MCKENNA MUSEUM OF AFRICAN AMERICAN ART Housed in an 1860s

Greek Revival mansion, this collection celebrating African-American culture features works by such artists as Henry Ossawa Tanner and Clementine Hunter. $5 adults, $3 seniors/students, $2 age 12 and under. Open Th-Sa, 11 am-4 pm and by appointment. www.themckennamuseum.com. 2003 Carondelet St., 504.586.7432. Map 1, D3 GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM Carnival pageantry, 1937-1968: lavish

gowns, costumes, and memorabilia of the late Wells, queen of 22 Mardi Gras balls. Located above Arnaud’s restaurant. Free; open during regular restaurant hours (nightly, 6-10 pm). www. arnauds.com/museum.html. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 HERMANNGRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this

house/museum offers visitors a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen. Tours offered on the hour M-Tu and Th-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, noon-3 pm; Open W by apointment only for group tours of 20 or more. $15 adults, $12 AAA members/seniors/ students. www.hgghh.org. 820 St. Louis St., 504.525.5661. Map 3, F4 HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove

of local historic treasures features free changing exhibitions. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. The Louisiana History Galleries are housed in the Merieult House, circa 1792, while the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries of Louisiana Art are in the circa-1825 Perrilliat House (400 Chartres St.). Guided tours of the Williams Residence are $5 (Tu-Sa, 10 and 11 am, 2 and 3 pm; Su, 11 am, 2 and 3 pm); other tours available. www.hnoc.org. 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4 HOUSE OF BROEL DOLLHOUSE MUSEUM This

Victorian manse is home to wedding specialist Bonnie Broel and her huge collection of dollhouse miniatures. The museum features more than a dozen tiny architectural wonders—from

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a Russian palace to a Southern plantation—and 40-plus vignette rooms, all perfectly detailed. $10 adults; $5 children. Call for appointment. www.houseofbroel.com. 2220 St. Charles Ave., 504.494.2220. Map 1, D4 LE MUSÉE DE F.P.C. This museum explores the

history, culture and contributions of New Orleans’ free people of color. Spanning three centuries, exhibits include original manumission documents, 19th-century paintings and an 1864 right-to-vote petition. Open Sa-Su, noon-4:30 pm and by appointment. $10; docent-led tours $15 adults, $10 students/seniors. www.lemuseedefpc.com. 2236 Esplanade Ave., 504.914.5401. Map 1, D3 LONGUE VUE HOUSE & GARDENS Designated

a National Historic Landmark, this 1939 Classical Revival home is modeled after an English country estate, with eight acres of gardens to explore. Guided tours available daily. $10 adults, $9 seniors/military, $5 students/children, 2 and under free. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4:30 pm; Su, 1-5 pm. www.longuevue.com. 7 Bamboo Rd., 504.488.5488. Map 1, D2 LOUISIANA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Children learn

through hands-on exhibits at this award-winning museum. Permanent exhibits include ”Little Port of New Orleans.” Adults/children $8.50. Open M-Sa, 9:30 am-5 pm; Su, noon-5 pm. www.lcm.org. 420 Julia St., 504.586.0725. Map 3, C6 LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS Open Tu-Su, 10

am-4:30 pm. $6 adults, $5 students/seniors/active military, children under 12 free. Arsenal (inside the Cabildo, Map 3, G4)–Used as a military prison during the Civil War. Cabildo (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–This historic structure next to St. Louis Cathedral was the site of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase. Continuing: The Cabildo: Two Centuries of Louisiana History. 1850 House (Lower Pontalba Building, 523 St. Ann St., Map 3, G5)– Antebellum family life in New Orleans is depicted and described here. Madame John’s Legacy (632 Dumaine St., Map 3, G5)–Built in 1789, this is one of the few extant Creole buildings in the Mississippi Valley. Old U.S. Mint (400 Esplanade Ave., Map 3, I5)–Constructed in 1834, this is the only building to have served as both a U.S. and Confederate mint.

Presbytère (Jackson Square, Map 3, G4)–Continuing: Mardi Gras: It’s Carnival Time in Louisiana and Living With Hurricanes: Katrina & Beyond. For tickets and further information: louisianastatemuseum.org. 504.568.6968.

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history trib-

ute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive. The Victory Theater shows the 4-D film Beyond All Boundaries, while the U.S. Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center offers “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience,” and the new Campaigns of Courage Pavilion houses the “Road to Berlin” and the “Road to Tokyo.” $23 adults, $20 seniors, $14 students/military, free for WWII vets and children under 5. Beyond All Boundaries: an additional $5; “Final Mission”: an additional $5. www.nationalww2museum.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6 NEW ORLEANS HISTORIC VOODOO MUSEUM

Explore this misunderstood religion through the museum’s artifacts and exhibits. Readings are also offered. $5 adults, $4 college students/seniors, $3 children (free under 5). Open daily, 10 am-6 pm. www.voodoomuseum.com. 724 Dumaine St., 504.680.0128. Map 3, H4 66 W H E R E N E W O R L E A N S I N O V E M B E R 2016

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NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the

South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries, with a special focus on European and American paintings.

The Besthoff Sculpture Garden offers more than 50 sculptures by major 20th-century artists. Open Tu-Th, 10 am-6 pm; F, 10 am-9 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-5 pm. Museum: $10 adults, $8 seniors/students, $6 children 7-17, free ages 6 and under. Free for all ages on W. Sculpture Garden open daily, 10 am-6 pm; free. www.noma.org. 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2 NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former

apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-F, 10 am-2 pm; Sa, 10 am-5 pm. $5 adults, $4 seniors/students, under 6 free. www.pharmacymuseum.org. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4 NEW ORLEANS TATTOO MUSEUMThis space is

devoted to the art of inking. Tattoo designs and implements are on display in the front gallery; a working studio operates in back. Free. Open Tu-Sa, 1-7 pm, and by appointment. www.nolatattoomuseum.com. 1915 1/2 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 504.218.5319. Map 1, D3 NEWCOMB ART MUSEUM The Newcomb College

division of Tulane University is known worldwide for its Arts and Crafts pottery. Its museum features rare examples from the early 20th century, in addition to traveling exhibits. Free. Open Tu-F, 10 am-5 pm; Sa-Su, 11 am-4 pm. www.newcombartgallery. tulane.edu. Woldenberg Art Center, Tulane University, 504.865.5328. Map 1, D3 OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART The most

comprehensive collection of its kind, this Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South with emphasis on photography, outsider art and the richness of the region’s cultural diversity. $12 adults, $10 seniors/students, $6.25 children (under 5 free).

Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. www.ogdenmuseum.org.

925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6 OLD ARABI SUGAR MUSEUM Located in a century-

old jail and courthouse in nearby Arabi, this sweet exhibit space explores the important role sugarcane has played in Louisiana over the past 250 years, and its continuing economic impact. 220 Hernandez St., 504.278.4242.

PITOT HOUSE MUSEUM Located along scenic

Bayou St. John, this circa-1799 home, built for New Orleans’ first mayor, is an excellent example of a Creole plantation house. Open W-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. $7 adults, $5 children, free ages 6 and under. www.louisianalandmarks.org. 1440 Moss St., 504.482.0312. Map 1, D2 PRESERVATION RESOURCE CENTER The PRC is

an essential stop for lovers of local architecture, and contains a wealth of information on the city’s buildings and neighborhoods. Open M-F, 9 am-5 pm. www.prcno.org. 923 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.581.7032. Map 3, B7 SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM

Devoted to “the understanding and celebration of food, drink and culture of the South,” SoFAB, located in a revamped circa-1849 market, features rotating and permanent exhibits, along with twiceweekly cooking classes. Adults, $10; students/ seniors, $5; children under 12, free. Open Th-M, 11

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am-5:30 pm www.southernfood.org. 1507 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 504.569.0405. Map 1, D3 WILLIAMS RESEARCH CENTER The research arm

of the Historic New Orleans Collection houses a sparkling repository of documents as well as rotating exhibits and a knowledgeable, friendly staff. Free. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. www.hnoc.org. 410 Chartres St., 504.598.7171. Map 3, F4

Performing Arts CIVIC THEATRE New Orleans’ oldest theater, dat-

ing to 1906, has hosted everything from vaudeville shows to discos. Shuttered during the 1990s, the 1,200-seat venue received a $10 million overhaul in 2013, and now features concerts by top national touring acts. www.civicnola.com. 510 O’Keefe Ave., 504.272.0865. Map 3, C4 JOY THEATERThis 1940s movie palace has been

revamped as a multi-use facility for musical, comedy and theatrical productions, as well as a space for special events. www.thejoytheater.com. 1200 Canal St., 504.528.9569. Map 1, D2 LE PETIT THÉÂTRE DU VIEUX CARRÉ This historic

space houses one the nation’s longest-running community playhouses. Step into the adjacent Tableau restaurant for pre- and post-theater cocktails. www.lepetittheatre.com. 616 St. Peter St., 504.522.2081. Map 3, G4 MAHALIA JACKSON THEATRE FOR THE PERFORM ING ARTS This 2,100 seat theater, located in sce-

nic Armstrong Park, received a multimillion-dollar, post-Katrina overhaul. The state-of-the-art venue is home to performances by the New Orleans Opera and the New Orleans Ballet, as well as national touring acts. www.mahaliajacksontheatre.com. 801 N. Rampart St., 504.525.1052. Map 3, H2 ORPHEUM THEATER Reopened following a floor-

to-ceiling renovation, this jaw-dropping 1,500 seat theater (home of the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra) features two balcony levels, VIP box seating, six bars—some located in the stairwells. www.orpheumnola.com. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.274.4871. Map 3, E3 SAENGER THEATREThis circa-1927 baroque

beauty plays host to the popular Broadway Across America series, in addition to major music and comedy acts. www.saengernola.com. 1111 Canal St., 504.287.0351. Map 3, E3

Cocktails ALTO Get above it all at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop

bar, which offers sweeping views and poolside dining. Open daily, 10 am-9pm. www.acehotel. com/neworleans/alto. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 3, C5 ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic

cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. www.arnauds.com. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4 ATTIKI This hookah bar offers an exotic getaway

without ever leaving the French Quarter. Order an arak (a traditional Middle Eastern anise-flavored cocktail), load the hookah and check out the belly dancers. www.attikineworleans.com. 230 Decatur St., 504.587.3756. Map 3, F5 AVENUE PUB The New Orleans go-to for craft

beers, offering the city’s largest available selection of locally produced brews. www.

8132 Hampson St. 504.252.9928 carrolltonmarket.com

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theavenuepub.com. 1732 St. Charles Ave., 504.586.9243. Map 1, D3 BAR TONIQUE This sleek and chic boite brings a

welcome air of sophistication to North Rampart Street. Dark woods and candlelight set the mood for top-shelf cocktails, house-made tonics and an extensive selection of wines by the glass. www.bartonique.com. 820 N. Rampart St., 504.324.6045. Map 3, H3 BARCADIA A bar and arcade in one—get it? Old-

school games (Jenga, skeeball, air hockey) are the draw...along with 30-plus beers on tap. Hungry?

Grab a burger or a fried PB&J. barcadianola.com.

601 Tchoupitoulas St, 504.335.1740. Map 3, D6 BARREL PROOF From Japanese Yamazaki to

Happy Hour 4-7pm Mon-Thurs: $ 3.00 Domestic Beers, $ 4.00 Well liquors, $ 5.00 Patrick’s Best Kept Secret wine “A fine bottle of wine turns strangers into friends, and friends into family” “Ten Best Wine Bars in the Country” by Fox News.

730 Bienville St. • 504.200.3180 • patricksbarvin.com In the Hotel Mazarin of the New Orleans Hotel Collection.

Kentucky-aged Old Grand-Dad, the top shelf at this hip Lower Garden District spot holds more than 150 brands of whiskey from around the globe. Candles and string lights illuminate walls of repurposed tin roofing; dig the stuffed bobcat and cow-skin rugs. www.barrelproofnola.com. 1201 Magazine St. 504.299.1888 Map 3, A7 BAYOU BEER GARDEN One of the first bona fide

beer gardens in the city, Bayou offers a huge patio with plenty of seating. The beer list is extensive with more than 100 choices on tap and in the bottle or can. www.bayoubeergarden.com. 326 N. Jefferson Davis Pkwy., 504.302.9357. Map 1, D3 BAYOU WINE GARDENThis casual Mid-City spot

offers 32 rotating wines on draft and a huge bottled selection. Cheese and charcuterie boards are also available, in addition to small and large plates. More a suds fan? Cross the courtyard bridge to the adjacent Bayou Beer Garden. www.bayouwinegarden.com. 315 N. Rendon St., 504.826.2925. Map 1, D3 BIG EASY DAIQUIRIS A dozen different daiquiris

made with top-shelf liquors, a large selection of beer, Hurricane cocktails and pizza by the slice will draw you in here. www.bigeasydaiquiris. com. 407 Bourbon St. Map 3, F4; 501 Bourbon St. Map 3, F4; 428 Canal St. Map 3, E5; 409 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 617 Decatur St. Map 3, G5; 911 Decatur St. Map 3, H5; 504.586.2070.

BOURBON COWBOY This watering hole corrals big

crowds with its large bar and DJs spinning country and rock music. But what really ropes ’em in is the club’s mechanical bull. www.bourbonsbest.com.

241 Bourbon St., 504.586.9022. Map 3, F4 THE BULLDOG The patio is the way to go at

this British-themed pub, where the fountain is fashioned from dozens of old beer taps. Only fitting given the dog-friendly tavern’s 50-plus draft beers and additional 100 varieties offered by the bottle. www.draftfreak.com. 3236 Magazine St., 504.891.1516. Map 1, D4; 5135 Canal Blvd., 504.488.4191. Map 1, D2 CAT’S MEOW One glimpse of the frat-house atmo-

sphere in this rowdy karaoke/cocktail emporium, and you’ll either flee or sign up for your own American Idol moment. No cover. www.catskaraoke.com.

701 Bourbon St., 504.523.2788. Map 3, G4 COOP’S PLACE Coop’s is a local mix of billiards,

tattoos, a great jukebox and some ambitious, delicious bar cuisine, all in a lively, no-kids-allowed atmosphere. www.coopsplace.net. 1109 Decatur St., 504.525.9053. Map 3, I5 COURT OF TWO SISTERS CARRIAGEWAY BAR Lo-

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way, this bar features an picturesque courtyard, fireplace and tons of ambiance. www.courtoftwosisters.com. 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4 COURTYARD BREWERY Beer lovers will fall for

the small batches with big taste at this Lower Garden District micro-micro brewery. A snack with your brew? Check the rotating schedule of food trucks. www.courtyardbrewing.com. 1020 Erato St.. Map 3, A7 CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE The Quarter’s only

brewpub. Microbrews , nightly live music, local art and sophisticated cuisine make the Brewhouse a winner. www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com. 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, F5 CURE This cutting-edge cocktail lounge, housed

in a former fire station, has one foot in the 19th century and one in the 21st. The cocktail menu is also half old fashioned and half modern, making Cure one of the hippest places in town to imbibe and socialize. www.curenola.com. 4905 Freret St., 504.302.2357. Map 1, D3 DOS JEFES UPTOWN CIGAR BAR Along with a

large selection of stogies, single malt scotches and beers on tap, this cozy nightspot serves up live music nightly. Off the beaten path...and all the better for it. www.dosjefescigarbar.com. 5535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.891.8500. Map 1, D4 EMPIRE BAR Paul Gustings, who Esquire has called

“the crustiest bartender on earth,” serves up classic cocktails at Broussard’s casually elegant in-house bar. www.broussards.com. 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4 EVANGELINEStep into the back courtyard at

this French Quarter restaurant, and the city feels miles away. Beer lovers will swoon over the great selection of regional craft brews. www. evangelineneworleans.com. 329 Decatur St., 504.373.4852. Map 3, F5 F&M PATIO BAR With its jumpin’ jukebox, massive

outdoor area and affordable drinks, this local legend draws a large collegiate crowd and loyal late-nighters. www.fandmpatiobar.com. 4841 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.895.6784. Map 1, D4 FINN MCCOOL’S Thirsty for an authentic Irish pub?

Skip the Irish Channel and head for Mid-City, where Finn’s packs ’em in every St. Patty’s Day and on any given Monday with its wildly popular trivia night. www.finnmccools.com. 3701 Banks St., 504.486.9080. Map 1, D3 FUNKY PIRATE Pirate décor sets the theme for

a swashbuckling good time at this rollicking Bourbon Street bar and music hall. There’s a small courtyard in the rear, but most of the action happens around the indoor stage. www.tropicalisle. com. 727 Bourbon St., 504.523.1960. Map 3, G4 HERMES BAR This sophisticated hideaway, tucked

inside Antoine’s restaurant, offers quiet respite from the din on nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance, knowledgeable bartenders and access to the historic eatery’s full menu. Live entertainment on weekends. www.antoines.com. 713 St. Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4 HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play

(the author once stayed here), this Garden District hot spot is located on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel. Modeled after an artist’s loft, the sophisticated space offers creative cocktails and killer views. www.hottinbar.com. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1452. Map 1, D4

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic

cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5 MOLLY’S AT THE MARKET Musicians and media

types, literati and eccentrics: Good old Molly’s has one of the best mixes of French Quarter folk (and with-the-beat visitors) at any hour of the day or night. www.mollysatthemarket.net. 1107 Decatur St., 504.525.5169. Map 3, I5 NAPOLEON HOUSE Offered to the emperor if

he could escape exile (so the tale goes), this is a legendary French Quarter watering hole. An hour spent enjoying a muffuletta and a Pimm’s Cup in the courtyard is a quintessential N’awlins experience. www.napoleonhouse.com. 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F5 NOLA BREWINGWeekly brewery tours, a massive

tap room and in-house barbecue make this a must-stop for beer fans. Check out the many seasonal beers, from the spicy Flambeau Red Ale to the summery 7th Street Wheat. www. nolabrewing.com. 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.896.9996. Map 3, D4 THE NOTE Housed in a revamped 19th-century

residence just off Bourbon Street, the Note is noteworthy for its classic cocktails...and cool back patio. Open W-Su evenings. www.notenola.com.

817 St. Louis St., 504.304.3991. Map 3, F4 OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE A favored tavern of such

bon vivants as Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain and Walt Whitman, this historic bar continues to draw absinthe enthusiasts and those thirsty for a taste of authentic New Orleans as it has since 1806. www.oldabsinthehouse.com. 240 Bourbon St., 504.523.3181. Map 3, F4 OLD POINT BAR Located on Algiers Point (a

quick ferry ride from the French Quarter), the Old Point Bar is on the levee of the Mississippi River. Local musicians abound—both on stage and in the audience. Hip local crowd; no attitude. www.oldpointbar.com. 545 Patterson Dr., 504.364.0950. Map 3, G8 PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane

cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. www.patobriens.com. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4 PATRICK’S BAR VIN Krewe of Cork founder and

all-around grape guy Patrick Van Hoorebeek’s namesake wine bar offers dozens of vintages by the glass and even more by the bottle. Cocktails and small plates, cheeses and charcuterie are also served. www.patricksbarvin.com. 730 Bienville St., 504.581.7300. Map 3, F4 THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s

club is one of the largest and toniest along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. www.penthouseclubneworleans.com. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4 POLO CLUB LOUNGE This elegant spot in the

equally elegant Windsor Court Hotel offers an extensive wine selection and incredible edibles, along with live entertainment Tu-Sa.

www.grillroomneworleans.com. 300 Gravier St., 504.523.6000. Map 3, D5 R BAR This unpretentious Faubourg Marigny

watering hole is a favorite among locals and visitors who happen by during the free Friday seafood boils. Drop in on Mondays for a haircut—and a shot. www.royalstreetinn.com. 1431 Royal St., 504.948.7499. Map 3, J4 RICK’S CABARET This recently revamped

18,000-sq.-ft. venue—named one of “America’s Best Strip Clubs” by Playboy—offers three floors, a great sound system and a private VIP section. www.iknowrick.com. 315 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, F4 RICK’S SPORTING SALOON The traditional sports

bar gets kicked up several notches at this Bourbon Street hot spot, which scores extra points with its handsome decor and gorgeous entertainers. The club features 10 high-definition TVs, along with 10 beers on draft, each kept at a cool 32 degrees. iknowrick.com. 522 Bourbon St., 504.524.4222. Map 3, G4 SAINTS & SINNERS With its sexy decor, naughty

named cocktails and large selection of small plates, actor Channing Tatum’s Bourbon Street bar and restaurant lives up to its promise for “a sinfully good time.” Live DJs on weekends. www. saintsandsinnersnola.com. 627 Bourbon St., 504.528.9307. Map 3, G4 SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic

cocktails in the beautifully restored Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac—the official cocktail of New Orleans—or a Ramos Gin Fizz, both of which were perfected here. www. therooseveltneworleans.com. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3 SECOND LINE BREWING Housed in a repurposed

industrial space, this brewery brings hoppy goodness to the Mid-City neighborhood. Flagship ales, growlers and test brews, as well as a rotating cast of food trucks, can be found in its outdoor beer garden Th-Su. www.secondlinebrewing.com. 433 N Bernadotte St., 504.248.8979. Map 1, D2 SNEAKY PETE’SThis lower French Quarter water-

ing hole draws locals and visitors alike with its easygoing atmosphere and daily drink specials. www.sneakypetesnola.com. 135 Chartres St., 504.587.7701. Map 3, E4 SWIZZLE STICK BAR Though found in the Loews

Hotel, the Swizzle Stick is more like a playground for classic cocktail aficionados than a typical hotel lounge. Affiliated with the Brennan restaurant family’s Café Adelaide, the bar boasts a “Bar Chef’s Table,” an innovative drinks list and even a small glacier of solid ice waiting to be chipped into glasses. www.cafeadelaide.com. 300 Poydras St. (inside the Loews Hotel), 504.595.3305. Map 3, D6 THE TCHOUP YARD Beach bar meets beer garden

at this Lower Garden District spot with local brews and frozen drinks on tap. An ever-changing list of food trucks/pop-ups complete the menu. 405 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.895.6747. Map 1, E4 TIKI TOLTECA A bit of the tropics on the edge of

the French Quarter. Totems and coconut heads grace the bar, which serves up mai tais, zombies and flaming Escorpion Punch W-M nights. www. tikitolteca.com. 301 N. Decatur St. (inside Felipe’s), 504.267.4406. Map 3, F5

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TROPICAL ISLE Home to the Hand Grenade, “New

Orleans’ most powerful drink.” www.tropicalisle. com. 610 Bourbon St., 504.529.1702. Map 3, G4; 600 Bourbon St., 504.529.1702. Map 3, G4; 721 Bourbon St., 504.529.4109. Map 3, G4; 435 Bourbon St., 504.525.1689. Map 3, F4 VICTORY Popular mixologist Daniel Victory is

shaking things up at his hip gastro lounge with killer classics and cool contemporary combos.

Sip a complimentary cocktail of the day while nibbling on truffle popcorn, pizza and other light bites. www.victorycocktails.com. 339 Baronne St., 504.522.8664. Map 3, D4 W.I.N.O. Wine Institute New Orleans—bet-

ter known by its tongue-and-cheek acronym W.I.N.O.—offers an innovative “enomatic” tasting system that allows you to sample 120 wines from around the globe by the glass, half-glass or taste. Cheese plates, artisanal salamis and other appetizers are also featured. Open M-Th. www.winoschool.com. 610 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.8000. Map 3, D5 WALKON’S Fittingly within walking distance of

the Superdome, this popular game-day gathering ground is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. Looking for a rowdy atmosphere with selfserve taps in which to watch the game? You’ve found it. www.walk-ons.com. 1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3 WORLD OF BEER Five hundred beers in bottles

and cans, 40 taps and a full menu of beer-focused fare make this Warehouse District tavern a great destination for brew lovers. www.worldofbeer. com. 324 Julia Street, 504.299.3599. Map 3, C6 YUKI IZAKAYA The crowd at this lilliputian

restaurant swells as the hour gets later, when the focus shifts from nibbling on Japanese-inspired small plates to downing a serious selection of sake—more than 20 varieties. 525 Frenchmen St., 504.943.1122. Map 3, J5

LIVE OUTSIDE YOUR SHELL

Dance Clubs BOURBON HEAT This massive party palace offers

two floors, a courtyard, patio bar and balcony, along with laser light shows and first-rate DJs. www.711bourbonheat.com. 711 Bourbon St., 504.324.4669. Map 3, G4 THE BOURBON PUB & PARADE The city’s largest

gay bar and nightclub. Parade, the second-floor danceteria, features techno, house and classic disco. www.bourbonpub.com. 801 Bourbon St., 504.529.2107. Map 3, H4 CAFÉ LAFITTE IN EXILE Billing itself as America’s

oldest gay bar, Lafitte’s creates a party with high-energy music, hi-def plasma video screens and a great balcony on Bourbon Street. All are welcome. www.lafittes.com. 901 Bourbon St., 504.522.8397. Map 3, H4 OZ This two-level disco has top-notch DJs, lively

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female impersonators and a mostly gay and gay-friendly crowd up for wee-hours dancing. www.ozneworleans.com. 800 Bourbon St., 504.593.9491. Map 3, H4

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL This raffish joint is tiny but has a

warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the crowded room. Steamy

windows face the nightlife bustle of Frenchmen Street, and the benches outside make ideal perches for people-watching. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J5 BALCONY MUSIC CLUB Visitors in search of a

“regular” kind of local hangout need look no further than this low-key French Quarter venue, which boasts two bars, great draft beer, pool, darts and nightly live music. 1331 Decatur St., 504.599.7770. Map 3, I5 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is

simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts such as the Washboard Chaz Trio perform regularly, along with national and international musicians. www.bluenilelive.com. 532 Frenchmen St., 504.948.2583. Map 3, J5 CAFÉ NEGRIL This intimate club features crowd-

pleasing live acts, ranging from jazz and blues to rock and reggae (Fridays), and the island-themed atmosphere sets a mellow vibe. While the dance floor fills up, the open kitchen turns out tacos, burritos and quesadillas. 606 Frenchmen St., 504.944.4744. Map 3, J5 CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone,

this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. The recently revamped venue now features live music Tu-Sa. www.hotelmonteleone. com. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4 CHICKIE WAH WAH This hot venue keeps the

Mid-City music scene at a steady boil with sets by leading jazz and funk acts. www.chickiewahwah. com. 2828 Canal St., 504.304.4714. Map 1, D3 CHRIS OWENS’ CLUB The durable and energetic

Miss Owens’ one-woman, salsa-and-Vegas-flavored shows (W-Sa, 9 and 10:30 pm) are the last of their ilk in the Quarter, if not the world. Don’t be surprised if Chris leads a conga line onto Bourbon Street. 500 Bourbon St., 504.523.6400. Map 3, F4 CIRCLE BAR This tiny Lee Circle bar draws a loyal

crowd of neighborhood night crawlers, habitual hipsters and tourists looking for a slice of local life.

Great jukebox; live music starts around 10 pm. www.circlebarnola.com. 1032 St. Charles Ave., 504.588.2616. Map 3, B6 COLUMNS BAR This stately Victorian on St. Charles

Avenue is a choice hangout for Uptowners. Watch the streetcar roll past while sipping a cocktail on the front porch, or relax in the 19th-century splendor of the indoor bar. Live music nightly. www.thecolumns.com. 3811 St. Charles Ave., 504.899.9308. Map 1, D4 D.B.A. This chic hangout on the Frenchmen strip

features 20 premium draught beers, fine tequilas and single-malts and live music nightly. Lively wee-hours scene. www.dbaneworleans.com. 618 Frenchmen St., 504.942.3731. Map 3, J5 THE DAVENPORT LOUNGE An elegant escape

inside the Ritz-Carlton offering a large selection of classic New Orleans cocktails, along with entertainment by celebrity trumpeter/crooner Jeremy Davenport. www.ritzcarlton.com. 921 Canal St., 504.524.1331. Map 3, E3 THE FAMOUS DOOR Bourbon Street’s oldest live

music club is also famed for its powerful drinks and fun people-watching. 339 Bourbon St., 504.598.4334. Map 3, F4

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FRITZEL’S EUROPEAN JAZZ PUB A German jazz

club? Only in New Orleans. Traditional jazz by local musicians as well as visiting European bands is featured nightly. www.fritzelsjazz.net. 733 Bourbon St., 504.586.4800. Map 3, H4 GASA GASA Live music, local art exhibitions, film

screenings and recording sessions are all on tap at this quirky Uptown music venue. A rotating cast of food trucks is available, and restaurants are within walking distance. www.gasagasa.com. 4920 Freret St., 504.338.3567. Map 1, D3

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HIHO LOUNGE This legendary dive got a post-

Katrina makeover, complete with an expanded stage and new sound system. But thankfully the vibe remains as funky and friendly as ever.

Entertainment runs the gamut, from bluegrass to burlesque. www.hiholounge.net. 2239 St. Claude Ave., 504.945.4446. Map 3, K4

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• Open 6 Days • Closed Tuesdays • Dinner served 5pm-till • Live Music

HOUSE OF BLUES The Crescent City branch of this

national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, and mixes big-name tours with performances by New Orleans favorites. www.hob.com. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5 HOWLIN’ WOLF This locally owned and operated

536 Frenchmen 504.252.4801 3musesnola.com

club features low cover charges and low attitude.

Acts include both local favorites and big names; the music ranges from punk to straight-ahead rock. www.thehowlinwolf.com. 907 S. Peters St., 504.522.9653. Map 3, C7

c

IRVIN MAYFIELD’S JAZZ PLAYHOUSE This stylish

spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. In addition to performances by Grammy-winning trumpeter Mayfield, the club features a nightly, rotating roster of top-tier local talent with no cover.

Retro burlesque Fridays at midnight; brass bands Saturdays. www.irvinmayfield.com. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4 KRAZY KORNER Live bands, a busy dance floor

LIVE LOCAL MUSIC

FRENCH QUARTER

and one of the largest balconies on Bourbon help keep the good times rolling here. 640 Bourbon St., Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts 504.524.3157. Map 3, G4 Armstrong Park

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E N T E R TA I N M E N T

www.oneeyedjacks.net. 615 Toulouse St., 504.569.8361. Map 3, G4 PALM COURT JAZZ CAFÉ This excellent venue

for traditional live jazz is a favorite of locals in the know and well-informed visitors. Creole dining is also featured. www.palmcourtjazzcafe.com. 1204 Decatur St., 504.525.0200. Map 3, I5 PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz

since 1961, this no-frills nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. Drunks and yakkers: go elsewhere. www.preservationhall.com. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4

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REPUBLIC NEW ORLEANS One of downtown’s

hottest night spots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a late-night dance club. www.republicnola.com. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6 ROCK ‘N’ BOWL A legendary local favorite now in

a new, larger location, Rock ’n’ Bowl still features the winning combination of bowling lanes and live music from the region’s top zydeco, R&B and rock acts. Check out swing night on Wednesdays.

Highly recommended, and worth the cab ride. www.rockandbowl.com. 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 504.861.1700. Map 1, D3 SNUG HARBOR An elegant, intimate mainstay

of Frenchmen Street’s music row, Snug Harbor was rated the city’s best jazz club by Esquire. Ellis Marsalis and Charmaine Neville are regulars. Two sets nightly. www.snugjazz.com. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4 THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual,

laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following among locals and visitors alike. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the wee hours. www.spottedcatmusicclub. com. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5 STAGE DOOR CANTEEN Swing back to a bygone

era at this fun WWII Museum venue, which features live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. Dinner and brunch packages available. Call for current lineup. www.stagedoorcanteen.org. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1943. Map 3, B6 THREE KEYS This hip venue in the über-hip Ace

Hotel mixes things up with live performances by local music acts, swing dance lessons and guest speakers discussing New Orleans history and culture. www.threekeysnola.com. 600 Carondelet St., 504.900.1180. Map 3, C5 THREE MUSES This popular night spot offers

M

two locations and a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, gourmet small plates by chef Daniel Esses and live local music. www.3musesnola.com. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; 7537 Maple St., 504.510.2749. Map 1, D4

RT PA

TIPITINA’S The legendary Tip’s is where the late

great Professor Longhair played, and it features an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup. Sunday afternoons feature a fais do-do with live Cajun music. www.tipitinas.com. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4 VAUGHAN’S LOUNGE This tumbledown dive deep

in the Bywater neighborhood gets jam-packed during its legendary Thursday night jam sessions, now headlined by Corey Henry & the Treme Funktet. Well worth the price of a cab. 800 Lesseps St., 504.947.5562. Map 1, E3

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THE GUIDE

Navigate Making the Connection

General Information New Orleans is famous for its good-time party spirit, but some visitors have misconceptions about local laws and customs. A few things to keep in mind: ORIENTATION Should you become confused while walking in the French Quarter, find the skyscrapers on the horizon. That will be Canal Street.

SAFETY Use common sense. Stick to well-traveled streets, particularly at night. If you’ve been drinking, have your bartender call a taxi for you.

DRINKING It is indeed legal to drink on the streets of New Orleans, provided your beverage is in a plas- tic container (“go-cup”) rather than a bottle or can.

SMOKING Smoking is banned in all public buildings, including restatuants and bars.

PUBLIC NUDITY Despite what you may have seen and heard, nudity is illegal in Orleans Parish at all times (including Mardi Gras). “Flashing” may earn women a ticket, but anyone dropping his or her pants will be arrested and booked for public indecency.

CALL OF NATURE Public unrination is a legal violation that will earn you not just a ticket, but an arrest and a court date.

Transportation AIRPORT SHUTTLE Airport Shuttle is the official

ground transportation to/from the Louis Armstrong International Airport and downtown hotels.

Fares: $20/person, $38 round trip. Shuttles depart

There’s a lot more going the airport every 15 minutes until the PARKING Parking in the French Quarter on this month. last flight of the day. Arrivals: Purchase and the Central Business District is rarely Visit us online: easy. Read all posted signs. Some areas tickets at the desks across from the wheretraveler.com baggage carousels. Departures: Call without meters allow free two-hour park504.522.3500 no later than 24 hours being. If your car is towed, call 504.565.7450. fore your flight. Pickups will be no less than 2 The auto pound is located at 400 N. Claiborne 1/2 hours before flight time. www.airportshuttleneAve. (at Conti St.). Fees are steep; bring cash or worleans.com. a credit card (credit cards accepted only with supplementary ID).

ALGIERS FERRY A ferry ($2 each way; $1/seniors, free age 2 and under) has been crossing the Missis- RENTAL CARS Though the French Quarter and Central Business District (CBD) are fairly compact, sippi River since 1827. The shuttle runs from Canal exploring other parts of the city is best done by car.

Street to Algiers Point M-Th, 6 am-9:45 pm; F, 6 Rental car agencies are plentiful in the CBD as well am-11:45 pm; Sa, 10:30 am-11:45 pm; and Su, 10:30 as at the Louis Armstrong International Airport and am-9:45 pm. in neighboring Metairie.

BUSES The city bus system is operated by the New STREETCARS New Orleans’ legendary streetcar Orleans Regional Transit Authority (RTA). Fares: Standard fare is $1.25; express, $1.50; seniors, 40¢; system features four lines, all of which connect transfers, 25¢. RTA VisiTour™ passes (good for on Canal Street. The St. Charles line leaves from boarding on all RTA buses and streetcars within Orthe corner of Canal and Carondelet (Bourbon leans Parish) are another option. One-day passes becomes Carondelet on the other side of Canal) (sold onboard) are $3, three-day passes are $9, and runs Uptown; the Loyola line offers access to the Superdome and Union Passenger Terminal; 31-day passes are $55. For routes, timetables, and the Riverfront line travels along the Mississippi passes, visit www.norta.com or call 504.248.3900. through the lower French Quarter; the Canal line CARRIAGE TOURS Mule-drawn carriages can continues to the end of Canal Street (cars marked be hired at the entrance to Jackson Square for “Cemeteries”), with a “spur” onto Carrollton (cars narrated tours of the French Quarter and surmarked “City Park”). The new Rampart/St.Claude rounding neighborhoods. Half-hour tours: $20/ line runs from Union Passenger Terminal to Elysian person; one-hour tours $40/person. Half-hour Fields Avenue. Standard fare is $1.25. Jazzy private carriage tours (accommodating up to four Passes™ (allowing unlimited boarding) are $3 for passengers): $100. www.royalcarriagesneworleans. one day (available onboard), $9 for three days and com. 504.943.8820. $55 for 31 days. www.norta.com. 504.248.3900.

NEW ORLEANS was recently named No. 2 among the “Best Cities in North America”—and No. 7 in the world—by readers of Travel + Leisure magazine.

©SHAWN FINK

It’s one of New Orleans’ biggest attractions, and—at $1.25 a ride—one of its cheapest. The Crescent City’s signature streetcars (p. 74) are a must-do for visitors looking to get off the beaten French Quarter path and explore other parts of the city. In operation since 1835, the St. Charles line offers an ideal vantage for viewing Uptown’s ornate homes and giant oaks. The Canal line travels the street’s full length, with an offshoot to scenic City Park, while the Riverfront line affords river views and access to the lower Quarter. The Loyola line makes getting to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome super-easy, and connects with the new Rampart/St. Claude line (shown), which covers the upper Quarter corridor from Canal Street to Elysian Fields. All aboard!

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N A V I G AT E

Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was correct as of press time, but is subject to change. Call to verify hours, prices, etc.

MAP LOCATIONS Note that the references at the end of each listing (Map 1, A1; Map 2, B5, etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 85-87.

Index General Information........................................................................... 74 Nearby Destinations............................................................................75 Cajun Country...........................................................................................75 Jefferson Parish ..................................................................................... 75 Lafourche Parish .................................................................................. 75 St. Tammany Parish/Northshore................................................75 Te.rrebonne Parish/Houma..........................................................75 Neighborhoods .................................................................................... 75 Transportation ....................................................................................... 74

TAXICABS Taxis are plentiful in New Orleans,

particularly around the French Quarter and the Central Business District. You’ll also find cabs lined up in front of major hotels and the Convention Center. Standard fare is $3.50 for the first 1/8 mile, and 30¢ for each 1/8 mile thereafter, or for each 40 seconds of “standing time.” A flat fee of $1 is charged for each additional passenger. A flat fee of $36 is charge for rides to/from the Louis Armstrong Airport to/from any location west of Eylsian Fields Avenue. For more than two passengers, a flat rate of $15 per person is charged. During special events, drivers may charge meter fare or a flat fee of $7 per passenger, whichever is greater.

Should you have a problem or dispute, call the New Orleans Taxicab Bureau (504.658.7102).

WALKING The French Quarter and Central Busi-

ness District are relatively compact. Walking from one end of the Quarter to the other (Esplanade Avenue to Canal Street) takes 15-30 minutes.

Neighborhoods BYWATER A mix of Creole cottages and Victorian

shotgun homes marks this traditionally workingclass neighborhood, now undergoing gradual gentrification with an influx of urban hipsters and a growing number of popular eateries. Map 1, E3 CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT CBD The center

of Crescent City commerce, the CBD is defined by its main artery, Poydras Street, which stretches from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome to the river and includes the Morial Convention Center and Harrah’s Casino. In recent years, the CBD has seen an explosion of luxury hotels, as well as a continuing restaurant renaissance with hot spots like Restaurant August, Cochon, Domenica and Ruth’s Chris, in addition to the perennially popular Emeril’s. Map 3, B5 CENTRAL CITYThis once-bustling commercial

corridor on the “lakeside” of St. Charles Avenue, which fell into deep decline during the 1990s, is thriving again. Home to legendary musicians, such as Buddy Bolden, the area is also home to the New Orleans Jazz Market. Map 1, D3 FRENCH QUARTER The French Quarter, or

Vieux Carré, founded in 1718 as a walled military

outpost, once comprised the entire city of New Orleans. Today, the district is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its quaint streets and shuttered Creole townhouses continue to charm. Map 3, G4 GARDEN DISTRICT/UPTOWN Perhaps the grand-

est of New Orleans’ neighborhoods, the Garden District is famous for its stately Greek Revival, Gothic and Queen Anne homes surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens. Tours of the area are available. Magazine Street, a mix of upscale and offbeat art galleries, clothing boutiques and café, is a shopaholic’s dream. Map 1, D4 LAKEVIEW Ranch-style homes, one-story bunga-

lows and other modern styles are the hallmark of this pleasant suburban area. A popular residental shopping and dining strip runs along Harrison Avenue. Map 1, D1 MARIGNY FAUBOURG MARIGNY Named one

of America’s hippest neighborhoods by Travel + Leisure, this funky district adjacent to the French Quarter has a bohemian mix of residents, from the well-heeled to the down-at-heel, as well as interesting residential architecture. Frenchmen Street, with its music clubs and restaurants, is the city’s hottest nightlife destination. Map 3, J4 MIDCITY Lush avenues, shotgun homes and the

banks of Bayou St. John are all included in MidCity’s beautiful neighborhoods, accessible by the Canal Street streetcar. The New Orleans Museum of Art, City Park and the mansions along Esplanade Avenue are popular attractions. Map 1, D3 RIVERBEND Originally incorporated in 1845 as

Carrollton, a city in its own right, this area was annexed by New Orleans in 1874. Today the neighborhood is a casual shopping and dining district.

Oak and Maple streets are chockablock with boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, clubs—and college students. Map 1, C3 TREMÉ FAUBOURG TREMÉ The nation’s oldest

African-American neighborhood is located just north of the French Quarter. The Tremé is home to Armstrong Park, the Mahalia Jackson Theater and St. Augustine Church. Map 3, I2 WAREHOUSE ARTS DISTRICT This “Southern

SoHo” adjacent to the Central Business District was given a facelift for the 1984 World’s Fair. It is now an arts district, known for galleries, museums and lofts. Highlights include the art galleries on Julia Street, the Contemporary Arts Center, the National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum, the Confederate Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Map 3, D6 WESTBANK A drive across the Crescent City Con-

nection bridge takes visitors to the other side of the Mississippi River. The Westbank is a collection of suburban residential and business communities, including Gretna, Harvey and Westwego.

English Turn Golf Club and Tournament Players Club both draw top golf tournaments and PGA events. Map 1, D4

Nearby Destinations CAJUN COUNTRY Despite what visitors often

think, New Orleans is not “Cajun country.” That area lies mostly southwest of the city, comprising 22 Louisiana parishes that surround the city of Lafayette. Lafayette itself is home to Acadian Village, a faithful recreation of a 19th-century Cajun settlement, as well as Vermilionville, a living history

and folk museum, and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park & Preserve. The charming town of St. Martinville is considered the Cajuns’ ancestral home; it’s where you’ll find the Evangeline Oak, commemorating the heroine of Longfelow’s famous poem. Avery Island is home to the Tabasco Pepper Sauce Factory; tours are available of the factory, as well as of the adjoining Jungle Gardens and Bird City. www.lafayettetravel.com.

JEFFERSON PARISH Just over the parish line from

New Orleans, Jefferson parish offers a variety of diversions and entertainment. The cities of Jefferson Parish each have thier own attributes.

Metairie is a choice residential area with a bustling business community—and great shopping at its many malls. “Old Metairie” is an oak-lined enclave of historic homes, restaurants and upscale boutiques. Kenner is home to the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Jean Lafitte is a piciutresque fishing village and home to the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which offers visitors an up-close glimpse of the swamp’s plant life and waterfowl. Grand Isle is an island community at the very tip of Louisiana. Westwego (directly across the river from the Audubon Zoo) home to Bayou Segnette State Park, which offers campsites and cabins. Adventurers will like the parish’s swamp tours and abundant fishing; cultures vultures will flock to the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. www.jeffparish.net.

LAFOURCHE PARISH Founded in 1807, Lafourche

was one of the Louisiana’s original parishes when it became a state in 1812. Situated along Bayou Lafourche, which extends to the Gulf of Mexico, the area is rich in fish and wildlife, making it an ideal location for early Acadian settlers. The Jean Lafitte National Park Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center in Thibodaux, the parish seat, offers insight into Cajun life, while swamp tours provide an upclose look local flora and fauna. Thibodaux is also home to the Laurel Village Sugar Plantation and Museum (the largest surviving 19th–century sugar plantation in the U.S.) and Nicholls State University (aka “Harvard on the Bayou”). www.visitlafourche. com. 985.537.5800.

ST. TAMMANY PARISH/NORTHSHORE Across lake

Pontchartrain is St. Tammany Parish, better known locally as the Northshore. After the Civil War, the area—with its numerous waterways, natural springs and pine-scented air—boomed as a resort destination for well-heeled New Orleanians. Since the opening of the Pontchartrain Causeway in 1956, the Northshore has become Louisiana’s fastest-growing parish, yet still retains much of its rusticity and charm. Mandeville, the city directly off the Causeway, offers great shopping, while Slidell (to the east) is known as “The Camellia City” for its flora and outdoor areas. Covington, the parish seat, has always drawn artists. Other Northshore communities include Madisonville, Abita Springs, Folsum and Pearl River. www. louisiananorthshore.com .

TERREBONNE PARISH/HOUMA Located about

an hour outside of New Orleans, Terrebonne Parish is home to the city of Houma, “the heart of America’s wetland.” Steeped in Cajun culture, Houma offers visitors a variety of swamp tours and other outdoor excursions (fishing charters, birding trails, wildlife parks), an abundance of authentic Cajun cuisine and lively dance halls where you’re guaranteed to pass a good time, cher. www. houmatravel.com. 800.688.2732. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 75

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STRETCHING SIX MILES parallel to the Mississippi River from Canal Street to Audubon Park and the zoo, Magazine Street slices through many different New Orleans neighborhoods. The Central Business District (CBD) and Warehouse Arts District, the Irish Channel, as well as the Lower Garden District, Garden District proper and Uptown—all are inter sected by Magazine. Along the way, you can find some of the city’s best clothing boutiques for children, women and men plus galleries, antique stores, restaurants, cafes, gourmet shops and more.

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Notary Public

In Historic St. Mary’s Assumption Church

V Sanctuary of Prayer, Hope & Healing

PRODUCTS & SERVICES: Copies, Fax & Scan

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WE SHIP WINE!

FedEx, DHL, & USPS Shipping MON-FRI 9 am – 6 pm; SAT 10 am – 4 pm; SUN Closed

V Religious Articles V Free Tours 919 Josephine St. in the Irish Channel (one block off Magazine Street) (504) 525-2495 seelos.org 5

3436 Magazine St. | 504.899.5415 7

Hand-Crafted Louisiana Cuisine Open Tues-Sat for lunch & dinner Open for Sunday Brunch 4238 Magazine Street | 504.891.3377 lapetitegrocery.com

Old School Favorites: ReInvented Serving Brunch Every Day, Tuesday- Sunday

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Chocolate Nature’s way of making up for okra!

Neighborhood Fine Diner NEW ORLEANS

3100 Magazine Street @ 8th St.

504.373.6579 www.ggsneworleans.com

Tuesday- Sunday: 8am- 3pm

(504) 269-5707

5707 Magazine St. New Orleans, LA 70115 www.BlueFrogChocolates.com

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THE GUIDE

Plantation Country Revisiting the Past Plantation tours have long served as a window on the past, providing a peek into life during the 1800s. Often overlooked and unspoken, however, has been the subject of slavery. As the nation’s only museum to focus solely on the topic, Whitney Plantation (shown) brings a fresh perspective to historic River Road via real-life accounts of former slaves. But Whitney isn’t the area’s only plantation embracing its not-so-pretty past. In addition to its main house tour, Laura offers an additional excursion that focuses on African-American cultural contributions, while Destrehan and Oak Alley provide permanent slavery exhibits. For further study, pay a visit to the River Road African American Museum, where you’ll find displays on everything from plantation education to the Underground Railroad.

DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 45-minute drive from

New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $18 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $15 seniors, $7 children 7-17 and free 6 and under.

Advance group rates available. Closed all major holidays. www.destrehanplantation.org. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 877.453.2095.

EVERGREEN PLANTATION This gorgeous Greek

Revival is a working sugar cane plantation and a private home, with the largest collection of extant slave quarters and outbuildings of any plantation.

Tours are offered M-Sa at 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. $20 adults, $6 ages 8 and under; free for children under 5. www.evergreenplantation.org.

4677 Hwy. 18, Edgard, La., 985.497.3837.

HOUMAS HOUSE PLANTATION AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds, and for having “starred” in many films (most memorably Hush...Hush, Sweet Charlotte). Tours are offered daily, 9 am-7 pm. $24; $15 grounds only. Overnight accommodations available. Old South Tours provides transportation via luxury buses that depart daily from the French Quarter; call 877-303-1776 for details. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.9380.

There’s a lot more going on this month.

Visit us online:

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picture1804 structure is one of the oldest perfect Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a and largest complexes on River Road. wheretraveler.com Laura bases its tours on 5,000 pages spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of of documents detailing 200 years of Great River Road” offers overnight accomCreole plantation life by the women, children modations in century-old cottages, Creole and and servants who lived there. The West African fold Cajun fare and mint juleps on the gallery. Guided tale “Br’er Rabbit” was also allededly recorded on tours are offered daily, 9 am-5 pm. $20 adults, $7.50 the site. Named the “best history tour in the U.S.” ages 13-18 and $4.50 ages 6-12. Group rates availby Lonely Planet travel guide. Guided tours are able. www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, offered daily, 10 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802. ages 6-17. www.lauraplantation.com. 2247 Hwy. 18, RIVER ROAD AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Vacherie, La., 888.799.7690. ”Learn about the past to understand the future” MADEWOOD PLANTATION HOUSE This 21-room is the motto at this plantation museum, which manse, built in 1846, derived its name from being explores the often-unsung contributions of African constructed of wood from trees on the property.

Americans along River Road. Numerous artifacts Overnight accommodations are available both are featured, along with exhibits touching on in the antiques-filled main house and in a nearby everything from slavery and free people of color to Greek Revival cottage. Tours are offered daily, 10 folk art, jazz and African influences on local cuisine. am-4 pm. $10 adults, $6 children. www.madeOpen W-Sa, 10 am-5 pm; Su, 1-5 pm; and by apwood.com. 4250 Hwy. 308, Napoleonville, La., pointment. $5. www.africanamericanmuseum.org.

985.369.7151.

406 Charles St., Donaldsonville, La., 225.474.5553.

NATIONAL HANSEN’S DISEASE MUSEUM De-

signed as an 1850s plantation home by architect Henry Hobson Richardson (who was born at St. Joseph Plantation and designed Nottoway Plantation), this site later served as a federal leprosarium for more than a century. Free tours are offered TuSa, 10 am-4 pm. Reservations required. www.hrsa. gov/hansens/museum. 5445 Point Clair Rd., Bldg.

12, Carville, La., 225.642.1950.

SAN FRANCISCO PLANTATION This grand home,

built in 1856, boasts hand-painted ceilings and fine decorative finishes. Its fanciful exterior is a mixture of six different architectural styles: Greek Gothic, Italianate, Spanish, Corinthian, Greek Revival and Victorian Gingerbread. The brightly painted gem recently received a $1-million restoration. Open daily, 9:40 am-4:40 pm. $17 adults, $16 AAA/active military, $10 ages 6-17, free ages 5 and under.

Group discounts. Closed major holidays. www.san-

RIVER ROAD, which follows the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, was home to more than 400 plantations prior to the CIvil War; today only a handful remain.

©ELSA HAHNE

Plantations & Museums: Near New Orleans

LAURA: A CREOLE PLANTATION This

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P L A N TAT I O N C O U N T R Y

Guidelines The majority of Louisana’s plantation homes are located along River Road, an easily navigated 70-mile stretch between New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Many local tour companies offer River Road excursions; check our Entertainment listings for details.

This directory, grouped by category, is a compendium of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Information was accurate as of press time, but hours, prices, etc. are subject to seasonal change. Always call ahead to avoid disappointment.

Index Plantations & Museums ............................................................... 82 Near New Orleans ............................................................................. 82 Baton Rouge & Beyond................................................................ 83 Dining........................................................................................................... 84

franciscoplantation.org. 2646 Hwy. 44, Garyville, La., 888.322.1756.

ST. JOSEPH PLANTATION Birthplace of architect

Henry Hobson Richardson, this circa-1830 Creole manor house has been family owned since 1877.

The important role of sugar production along River Road is explored here. Guided tours are offered Th-Tu on the hour, from 10 am to 3 pm. $18 adults, $16 seniors/AAA/active military, $13 college, $10 ages 13-18, $8 ages 6-12, free for children 5 and under. Group rates available. Old River Road Plantation Adventures provides transportation from the French Quarter. www.stjosephplantation.com.

3535 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 225.265.4078.

WHITNEY PLANTATION Recently opened to the

public for the first time in its 262-year history, this plantation explores slavery through a variety of exhibits, historic structures and moving first-person accounts. Guided tours are offered W-M on the hour, 10 am-3 pm. $22 adults, $15 seniors, free for children under 12. www.whitneyplantation.com.

5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300.

Plantations & Museums: Baton Rouge & Beyond AFTON VILLA GARDENS Set among the ruins of

an 1850s Gothic Revival manse, these magnificent gardens have been rescued and restored to their former glory. More than 250 moss-draped live oaks are spread over 25 acres. Daily tours are offered 9 am-4:30 pm, Mar.-Jun., and Oct.-Nov. $5; children 12 and under free. www.aftonvilla.com. 9047 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6773.

BUTLER GREENWOOD PLANTATION Still retained

by its original-owning family, this circa-1790 English cottage-style home is now a bed-and-breakfast.

Eight different cottages dot the grounds, including the plantation’s kitchen, which features two bedrooms, two baths and its original, hand-dug well constructed from bricks made on site. www. butlergreenwood.com. 8345 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6312.

COTTAGE PLANTATION One of the area’s most

complete plantation dwellings with many of the property’s original outbuildings still standing where they were during antebellum days. The w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 83

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THE GUIDE

main house is composed of a series of connected buildings erected between 1795 and 1860, and features a large selection of original furnishings.

B&B accommodations available. Tours are offered daily, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $7. www. cottageplantation.com. 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3674.

GREENWOOD PLANTATION This 28-columned

Greek Revival was built in 1830, destroyed by fire in 1960 and painstakingly rebuilt and returned to its former splendor during the 1980s. Now a popular bed-and-breakfast, tours are offered daily (except major holidays). Open Mar.-Oct., 9 am-5 pm; Nov.Feb., 10 am-4 pm. Home and garden: $9; grounds only: $4. www.greenwoodplantation.com. 6838 Highland Rd., St. Francisville, La., 225.655.4475.

MYRTLES PLANTATION “One of America’s most

haunted homes,” the Myrtles offers overnight stays for those who dare, and daily historic tours, along with nighttime “mystery” excursions, for those who don’t. A popular destination for ghost hunters, this circa-1796 property is allegedly home to more than a dozen active spirits. Guided historic tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm (except major holidays); $8 adults, $4 children under 12. Mystery tours are available F-Sa, 6-8 pm; $10. www.myrtlesplantation.com. 7747 Hwy. 61, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.6277.

NOTTOWAY PLANTATION The famed “White

Castle of Louisiana,” resting on 37 acres of land, is one of the largest antebellum homes in the South. Nottoway has beautiful antique rooms with overnight accommodations available; reservations recommended. Guided tours are offered daily, 9 am-4 pm. $20 adults, $6 children 6-12, free under 5. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAKLEY HOUSE In the early 1820s, naturalist John

James Audubon traveled around Louisiana sketching the state’s native wildlife for his Birds in America series, creating more than 30 drawings while residing in this 1806 colonial-style home. Guided tours are offered W-Su on the hour, 10 am-4 pm; closed major holidays. $8 adults, $6 seniors (62 and older), $4 students (ages 6-17), children 5 and under free. www.crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-parks/historicsites/audubon-state-historic-site. 11788 Hwy. 965, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3739.

ROSEDOWN PLANTATION This circa-1834 home

features rare 19th-century furnishings and 28 acres of pristine formal gardens. Tours offered daily (except holidays), 10 am-4 pm. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $4 students, under 5 free. www.crt.state.la.us/ louisiana-state-parks/historic-sites/rosedownplantation-state-historic-site/index. 12501 Hwy. 10, St. Francisville, La., 225.635.3332.

RURAL LIFE MUSEUM Located on the Burden

Research Plantation, a 450-acre agricultural experiment facility operated by Louisiana State University, this museum charts the state’s rich cultural heritage with exhibits on “folk architecture” and 19th-century working plantation life. Open daily (except major holidays), 8 am-4:30 pm. $7 adults, $6 seniors, $5 students, $4 ages 5-11, ages 4 and under free. sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife. 4560 Essen Lane, Baton Rouge, La., 225.765.2437.

Dining THE CABIN The Cabin offers “meals typical of

the River Road tradition,” served with “a small sampling of southern Louisiana history.” The

restaurant’s atmosphere, with walls covered in yellowed newsprint, is as authentic as its traditional Cajun specialties. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). www.thecabinrestaurant.com. 5405 Hwy. 44, Burnside, La., 225.473.3007.

PLANTATION TOUR S

CAFÉ BURNSIDE Houmas House Plantation offers

casual outdoor dining amid its lush courtyard and gardens. Light lunch items are featured, along with a bountiful buffet. A traditional Southern brunch with all of the trimmings is served on Sundays. L (daily); Su brunch. www.houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

CAFÉ LAFOURCHE Turtle soup, alligator sauce

piquant, crawfish pie, fried seafood platters: What else would you expect from a restaurant perched on the banks of the bayou? Get a taste of it all with the Bayou Bell Classic (shrimp, crawfish and andouille served over pasta) or go for the Swamp steak.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). www.cafelafourche.com. 817 Veterans Blvd., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.7451.

THE CARRIAGE HOUSE During the 1860s famed

New Orleans architect James Gallier designed a pair of carriage houses for Houmas House Plantation that were never built...until 2013. The opulent space, outfitted with carved marble mantles, gilt mirrors and crystal chandeliers, serves an elegant afternoon tea and casual dinner daily. www. houmashouse.com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

One of the most authentic and historic tours in the New Orleans Plantation Country. Be part of an unforgettable experience.

Open Daily | 25 mins. from New Orleans

FOR TOUR INFO Call 1-877-453-2095

or Visit www.destrehanplantation.org

FIRST AND LAST CHANCE CAFÉ Located in a

former train depot, this family-style restaurant has been a popular gathering place since 1921.

Po’boys, burgers, resh seafood and other Louisiana specialties are of- fered. B, L, D (daily). 812 Railroad Ave., Donaldson- ville, La., 225.473.8236..

GRAPEVINE CAFÉ This combonation restaurant/art

gallery, located in a former 1920s tavern and gambling parlor (frequented by Al Capone), features rotating exhibits, live music and above-standard Cajun and Creole fare. L, D (Tu-Sa); Su brunch. www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, La., 225.473.8463.

LATIL’S LANDING Old World elegance with innova-

tive, irresistible food: That’s the winning formula behind this in-house fine dining venue at Houmas House Plantation. Latil’s features a multi-course, seasonal tasting menu, with dishes such as speckled trout with fennel-and-heirloom tomato ragout and pancetta-wrapped pork belly with pureed sweet potatoes served on the plantation’s signature Limoges china. D (W-Sa). www.houmashouse. com. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La., 225.473.7841.

THE MANSION Nottoway’s in-house restaurant

offers sweeping views of the plantation’s amazing oaks and amazing eats by chef Daniel Thompson. Crab-and-brie bisque, smoked duck with Creole tomato grits, grouper with truffle-mashed potatoes, pecan-crusted rack of lamb: No need to head back to New Orleans anytime soon. B, L, D (M-Sa); Su brunch. www.nottoway.com. 31025 Hwy. 1 South, White Castle, La., 225.545.2730.

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION RESTAURANT Exploring

Plantation country calls for serious sustenance. Fortify yourself by starting the day with a cup of coffee and an order of beignets at Oak Alley Plantation’s on-site eatery. Worked up an afternoon appetite?

Grab a late lunch of alligator nuggets or jambalaya and a slice of buttermilk pie for the road. B, L (daily). www.oakalleyplantation.com. 3645 Hwy. 18, Vacherie, La., 800.44A.LLEY.

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THE GUIDE | MAPS

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MAPS These maps correspond to the listings sections of Where® magazine.

Check the coordinates at the end of each listing to find your destination.

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AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 1 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F4 CL Claiborne Mansion, 2111 Dauphine St., 301-1027 J4 CR Clarion Inn & Suites, 1300 Canal St., 299-9900 E2 CI Country Inn & Suites, 315 Magazine St., 324-5400 D5 CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 2 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EB Embassy Suites, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS French Quarter Suites Hotel, 1119 N. Rampart St., 524-7725 H3 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 C7 HH Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 3 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LR Le Richelieu, 1234 Chartres St., 529-2492 I5 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 5 MC Marriott Convention Center, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 613-2888 C7 MM Melrose Mansion, 937 Esplanade Ave., 944-2255 I3 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 NA Natchez Vacation Rentals, 530 Natchez St., 881.1243 D5 NC New Orleans Courtyard Hotel, 1101 N. Rampart St., 522-7333 H3 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 E4 t S RH Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 C7 in e OC a v A eOmni Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 Sp v h A OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 c lin Ro FrankPL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 St PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 6 PZ Plaza Suite Hotel & Resort, 620 S. Peters St., 524-9500 D6 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn Convention Center, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RS Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SO Soniat House, 1133 Chartres St., 522-0570 I4 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 7 Street Direction SB Staybridge Suites, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 E4 French Quarter WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 WH The Whitney, A Wyndham Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 C4 WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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Streetcar Routes

Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

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Jazzy Passes 1 day - $3 3 day - $9 31 day - 55

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Ride RTA buses and streetcars as much as you’d like.

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[WHERE INSIDE]

New Orleans Your Way

Music Fan

Luxury Travelers

Outdoors Lover

From Jelly Roll Morton to Troy “Trombone Shorty” Andrews, New Orleans has a long and rich musical heritage. Home to the Mahalia Jackson Theater for the Performing Arts, (1) Armstrong Park is also home to Congo Square, where jazz is said to have first germinated—hence the statues of Louis Armstrong and other musical giants. A little live music with your mimosas and eggs Benedict? The concept of the weekend jazz brunch originated at (2) Commander’s Palace, where it’s since been perfected to an edible art form.

With few seats, no air conditioning and no booze, you wouldn’t think folks would be lining up to get in (3) Preservation Hall. But line up they do—and have for more than 50 years. The music is worth the wait; traditional New Orleans jazz at its very best.

Breakfast at (1) Brennan’s is a must-do and best experienced as a leisurely, multicourse affair, complete with cocktails. Start with a brandy milk punch or Cajun bloody mary (hey, the term “eye-opener” was coined here), before diving into egg yolk carpaccio, turtle soup and pork grillades over cheddar grits.

It only seems fitting that a town so obsessed with food would be home to the first culinary antiques store. (2) Lucullus rewards epicurean collectors with gastronomic treasures from the 17th through 20th centuries. Even the window displays are good enough to eat.

Tiffany & Co., Coach, Michael Kors, Brooks Brothers, lululemon, Saks Fifth Avenue—luxe is the key word at the (3) Shops at Canal Place, where the third-floor movie theater offers nine screens … and in-seat dining.

As one the most bike-friendly cities in the U.S., New Orleans has seen a boom in twowheel vendors. (1) Crescent City Bike Tours is among the most popular, offering guided rides as well as private rentals. Set off on your own along the Lafitte Greenway, a 2.6-mile green corridor that runs from the French Quarter through Mid-City. From biking, boating and fishing to tennis, horseback-riding and disc golf, (2) City Park offers an easy escape for outdoor enthusiasts. Bird-watchers will gravitate to the Couturie Forest, while fitness junkies will find their fix around the Big Lake. For up-close encounters with alligators, egrets and other beasts of the Southern wild, set off on an (3) Airboat Adventures tour through 20,000 acres of cypress swamp. Ever petted a gator? You will.

(LEFT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©COMMANDER'S PALACE; ©PRESERVATION HALL; (CENTER, FROM TOP) ©CHRIS GRANGER; ©SHAWN FINK; ©THE SHOPS AT CANAL PLACE; (RIGHT, FROM TOP) ©SHAWN FINK; ©DAVID LANCASTER; ©AIRBOAT ADVENTURES

UNIQUE TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS, FIT TO MATCH YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. FIND THE CITY CURATED FOR YOU AT WHERETRAVELER.COM/NEW-ORLEANS.

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