EM - Profumeria Selettiva 6-21

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export.magazine@mteedizioni.it

THE INTERNET GUIDE TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WORLDWIDE

exportmagazine.net

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N. 6/2021 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via R. Gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a.

Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena - € 7 In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CPO MODENA per la restituzione previo pagamento resi.

YOUR BUSINESS PARTNER FOR DOMESTIC & DUTY FREE MARKETS WORLDWIDE

Discover the complete range on

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COMPANY

4 Nouba 6 Transvital 24 Grioni-MYC 40 SurgicTouch

EVENTS On the cover: Happy Me Mood Collection, signed by Nouba

20 We Cosmoprof 34-35 TFWA Cannes 47 BeautyIstanbul

FLASH/NEWS N. 6 ANNO XLI AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2021 2021 BIMONTHLY AGOSTO SETTEMBRE 2021 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena Printing: Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO) Art Director Teresa Tibaldi Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Francesca Bonelli Roberto Cimarosa - Valerie Kaminov Rebecca Lazzari - Joan Rundo Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni

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18, 22

INTERVIEW

14/17 28/30

Astra: S. Settimi Red of View: C. Bondioli, L. Pecis

LAUNCH

8 Luciano Soprani 10 Lumson 12 Arômélia

report

36/38 42/45

Farm to face – Valérie Kaminov The Beauty of bacteria – Valérie Kaminov

Advertisers’ list

13 Arômélia 17-19-IV Astra 3 Baralan III BeautyIstanbul 26-27 Confalonieri Cosmetics 46 Cosmobeauté 21 Cosmoprof Bologna Worldwide 23 Grioni-MYC II-1 HSA 31 Induplast 9 Luciano Soprani 11 Lumson 33 Mane 39 Make-up in…Paris Cover Nouba 41 Packaging Première 7 Transvital

DEA Airless Packaging in Glass Marrying quality through functionality and sustainability, the new DEA series is the first airless system where the product is directly in contact with the glass.

www.baralan.com

COMPANY

NOUBA VERSATILE MAKE-UP THAT BELIEVES IN FREE EXPRESSION

Convinced that make-up is a way to give freedom of expression to the personality, Nouba presents its Happy Me mood collection 2021. This fresh summer palette celebrates the positivity and happiness of natural colours. The colour range embraces a reversed order with eye-catching chromatic harmonies, through a mix and match of lines, shapes and colours. From the warmest and imaginative, to the freshest and most delicate ones, no matter whether it’s circles, squares or abstract designs. The leitmotiv for this collection will be “layer with care and feel positive. Wear happiness every day and let color glow up your life”.

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Not only color in the inspirational moodboard but also chameleonic formulas created using exclusive Vegan Approved ingredients. The creamy textures caresse, care and color the skin in a true ritual of happiness: Nouba, who since its origins has supported and encouraged women to dare, once again breaks the stereotypes of boring makeup, giving any makeup lover the opportunity to express themselves and bright!

We believe that the boundaries of beauty no longer exist: color, performance and activity are essential characteristics for a tailor-made result.

The hot product in collection is PINKELISIR – lip tint, a lip stain with an immediate colour release and an ultra-comfortable naked-lip feel. Its tattoo-like matte colour dries instantly and stays fresh and perfect for eight hours of wear. The formula kissproof reboot the natural color of the lips. For eyes, the fluid eyeshadow Qui comes in a flaconette with a soft applicator to

COMPANY

Nouba is a young and dynamic Italian brand that creates versatile make-up ensure perfect blendability. It is a delicate eyeshadow cream with a luminous finish that can also be used as a base on the cheeks or the eyes. Once again the versatile soul of Nouba finds expression in the multifunctionality of its products that can smartly adapt to multiple simultaneous uses: eyes, face, lips. For a natural flushing effect on the cheek Nouba launch

Turn Me Red, a cream to powder blush that gives a natural and sheer tint on cheeks, eyes and lips. For a sheer second skin effect, Noubamore is an ultrafluid foundation. Its oil-free formula reduces the shiny appearance of the T zone for a mesmerizing matte look. It dries quickly, leaving a velvety and ultra-light finish on the skin with a no-transfer film.

In 2020 NOUBA celebrated the anniversary of its most iconic product, Millebaci liquid lipstick, with the launch of a “pocket mini-size” in a limited edition.

Millebaci was designed for breathtaking kisses, as it was the first kissproof lipstick that left only emotions and no traces.

The FIVE KISSES EXPERIENCE pocket contains 5 mini millebaci lipsticks for lips that are always perfect.

Its saturated, trendy and vibrant colours are infused with Italian passion.

The sumptuous formula is enriched with pure pigments for a single shot colour release, leaving an ultra-matte finish. Its texture is kissproof and does not transfer.

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COMPANY

TRANSVITAL round-the-clock hydration

Research activities at Transvital’s laboratories follow the latest and most important discoveries in dermatology, cosmetology, and plastic surgery. Here’s a real innovation: protecting and stimulating the skin’s metabolism, by activating its own vital substances.

Hydra All Around Treatments The Hydra All around Line is composed by cream, serum, eye contour and mask to have a deep hydration, thanks to the exclusive, gradual-release deep hydration program.

The technology is a latest-generation delivery system rich in stimulating, anti-oxidant active ingredients.

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Formulas are based on Microspheres and Chronocosmetology Microspheres enhance skin hydration, bioavailability, stability and controlled occlusion. They are composed of a very small sphere able to increase its own surface by absorbing the active ingredient.​The active ingredient is released over a long period of time.

LAUNCH

LUCIANO SOPRANI THE PURE ESSENCE OF A WOMAN

At the heart, an original blend of flowers and fruit, glorious femininity is expressed in noble Sambac jasmine, Florentine iris, plum and an explosion of floral notes, enriched by soft rose petals and sensuous impalpable peony.

Luciano Soprani Donna, the fragrance for the woman who makes her choice based on her instinct

The Luciano Soprani woman moves delicately, concealing strong character and a sophisticated image that reveals spontaneous elegance and regal beauty, and she enchants and surprises with seductive and harmonious gestures. She is selfconfident and trusting of her appeal, expressing her personality in all her choices, from dress to fragrance, with instinctive taste and spontaneity.

Luciano Soprani Donna, the new fragrance for women, starts with fresh and luminous top notes of tangerine and bergamot, harmoniously enveloped by peach and green cassis.

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The generous and opulent base notes of sandalwood, vanilla and a richer second skin of musks, are warm and captivating, leaving an unforgettable sillage.

This exclusive fragrance has an exclusive bottle, crafted in linear shapes and softly luminous volumes, the opulent base notes and lively character of the fragrance harmonize perfectly with the simple but sophisticated personality that characterizes the Soprani world. The communication for this exceptional new fragrance features a woman who is the symbol of the unmistakeable Luciano Soprani style, who pays the same attention to choose her fragrance as her clothes and whose personality is as intense as her gaze. The atmosphere is refined and exquisite, created from intimate expectations and details of good taste: the pure essence of the Luciano Soprani world.

LAUNCH

Lumson THE MOST-LOVED LIPSTICK? CREAMY AND LONG-LASTING What’s a woman’s best friend?

A long-lasting lipstick of course! A lipstick that lasts but maintains its color throughout the day and is lightweight and smooth. And for a lipstick like this, a cornerstone of all self-respecting makeup lines, packaging is needed that is both worthy and able to enhance the formula. It’s not an easy task seeing as longwear lipsticks, the most requested on the market, are formulated with particular volatile raw materials which allow for longer-lasting color.

Today, consumers demand products with lasting color that doesn’t transfer and that are also resistant to the constant rubbing action of face masks.

Throughout this evolution, packaging plays an essential role because, besides being aesthetically pleasing to look at and practical to use, it has to live up to the important task of maintaining the integrity of characteristics of the product it contains.

A task for cosmetic companies that becomes a true technological challenge of combining design, functionality, and safety.

The world of cosmetics packaging offers different solutions, especially when it comes to stylos, but few are available in the 12.7mm diameter of classic lipsticks, and for a premium positioning A-TX2 can be metallized without losing its airtight qualities.

LIPSTICK AIRTIGHT A-TX2 BY LUMSON: SAFE, VERSATILE, LONG-LASTING

The characteristic of airtight packaging ensures that the product within doesn’t lose its qualities, while technological innovation combined with versatility make it a product in step with the times. Customization and aesthetic research are requirements in cosmetics packaging, especially if involving a product that is a master of seduction like lipstick, and Lumson doesn’t disappoint, offering a variety of customization possibilities to give each product a little something «extra».

Thanks to its characteristics, A-TX 2 by Lumson is the ideal solution for those who desire a safe packaging with immense appeal.

Lumson, a pioneer in the development of packaging in tune with new consumer habits and changing marketing needs, backed by its expertise in the world of lipsticks, has chosen to take on this challenge and to launch an airtight lipstick on the market: A-TX2. A-TX2, destined to become a best-seller, was developed to preserve formulas requiring packaging that is long-lasting. The A-TX2’s characteristics are that of a sophisticated, yet versatile lipstick: cap and base in ABS, cup available in POM or PBT, with a standard diameter of 12.7mm.

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What are A-TX2’s advantages?

Airtightness, technological innovation, and versatility.

LAUNCH

REJUV’OIL

by ARÔMÉLIA

AN EXCEPTIONAL OIL FOR FACE AND BODY An unsaponifiable concentrate from Maracuja Oil, a patented, eco-designed active ingredient obtained by a molecular distillation process, repairs skin tissue at three levels. This oil repairs, tightens and smooths weak and damaged skin, regenerating, restructuring and remodelling it.

Skincare with a maximum concentration of ingredients for three actions in one product

Christiane Benet has been fascinated by the power of essential oils and natural plant extracts for numerous years now and is a pioneer in dry oils for the face and body. She has devoted the past two years, with her daughter Caroline, to the creation of a unique treatment for absolutely everyone: Rejuv’Oil. For the beautification of the face and body, Rejuv’Oil is exceptional skincare with three main actions: it has anti-ageing benefits, it reduces stretch marks and has a refining action, thanks to a maximum concentration of ingredients from scientific research.

It contains twenty-two powerful plant concentrates and energizing essential oils, delicately scented by its precious aroma. Formulated without preservatives, colour or fragrances, its innovative texture gently infuses the heart of the skin, leaving it sublimed, toned and plumped. For the anti-ageing action, an active blend of lemon, rosemary, sage, mint and thyme essential oils leaves the skin bright and vitalized, boosted and energized by the plants’ actions.

In addition, extracts of Lupin seeds stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. The active molecules from the seeds improve skin suppleness and firmness and tighten areas of sagging skin.

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Tomato carotenoids allow improving the elasticity of the skin, improvement of the appearance of stretch marks and orange peel and improvement of inflammation. The combination of linen, borage, almond and olive oils give Rejuv’Oil antioxidant properties to improve tissue elasticity and reshape areas of sagging skin.

Rejuv’Oil helps reduce recent stretch marks, and tones and firms at the same time. An extract of plankton detoxifies, helps reshape contours of the silhouette by acceleraing the burning of fat. The appearance and the texture of the skin are improved.

The surface of the thighs, hips and abdomen is smoothed. Tests have shown that after 34 days of treatment with two applications daily, Rejuv’Oil had markedly reduced the redness of the stretch marks, notably improving the condition of the skin affected by the problem. The product can quickly improve the elasticity and the smoothness of the stretched skin and has an anti-inflammatory effect. Rejuv’Oil can be used by women and men on the face to deal with ageing, dry skin and sensitive skin Thanks to its rapid penetration, when used on the body it is possible to get dressed immediately afterwards. It can be used as a toning massage after the shower, once or twice a day for a nourishing, firming, reshaping and refining action. To reduce stretch marks, the areas concerned should be lightly massaged with the oil morning and evening for two months, but not if pregnant or breastfeeding.

presents its natural oil

Rejuv’Oil ANTI ÂGE GLOBAL Anti- VISAGE Âge GLOBAL ET CORPS Face & Body

N SOIN UNIQUE ENEFITS PLES BAPERFORMANCES NTI AGE

REDUCES ACTION ANTI-ÂGE STRETCH MARKS RRIGE LES VERGETURES REFINING ACTIONA CAFFINANTE TION 1 Treatment with 3 performances

21 Bd Haussmann 75009 Paris contact.aromelia@orange.fr ANTI ÂGE GLOBAL +331.56.03.66.03

VISAGE ET CORPS www.aromelia-paris.com

Lipid replenishing*

UN SOIN UNIQUE +77,9% PAV.32 AUX TRIPLES PERFORMANCES Stand C4

ACTION ANTI-ÂGE

Stretch marks are less visible**

65%

The skin is toned**

The skin is nourished**

88%

94%

* Use test under dermatological control over 12 volunteers: Increase the skin lipid content 4 hours after the application of Rejuv’Oil **Self-assessment test performed on 17 subjects for 56 days

interview

ASTRA MAKE UP INTERVIEW WITH SIMONE SETTIMI, GENERAL MANAGER EM: This year, the leading theme is environment, also for cosmetics companies. What is the contribution of Astra Make-Up to this area?

SS: Since 2018, after achieving the environmental certification ISO 14001, our company has started an honorable path integrating sustainability into its environmental strategy, putting into action the commitments related to the Corporate Social Responsibility. The commitment materializes through packing, packaging and the evolution of formulations, more and more driven towards a natural percentage of ingredients, as well as the short/medium term implementation of new significant initiatives.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Astra Make-Up is a Made in Italy brand, created in 1988, whichtwo years ago began a notable rebranding process, going from the make-up segment to the launch of a new skincare line, last May. Can you tell us more about the strategies adopted to reach a larger number of consumers?

SIMONE SETTIMI: The path undertaken in 2018 with Astra rebranding has confirmed the strength of our brand, which aims at becoming a global name in the cosmetics panorama, and a reference point for all consumers. Covid has changed all the rules of business and trade; however, the solidity of the company’s strategy has been confirmed.

The strategies undertaken so far have empowered online platforms. ìOur social networks keep playing a key role in the achievement of a wider number of consumers, whereas the constant dialogue with our community helps us regularly adapt the product offer with amazing results.

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interview

One of the latest examples is the eco-concept store, recently launched in our HQ in Todi, Umbria.

This is a very unusual store, especially green, entirely made of ecological recycled materials,which was born from our desire to invest on sustainability, giving a second life to a container fallen into disuse and then turned into a modern store, where to find all the latest novelties from Astra.

SS: We’ve got a capillary distribution, as a tradition; the focus is on Perfumeries, mass market and retail, but our target is to reach as many customers as possible.

We are taking into consideration the approach of new channels that will become the pillars of distribution for companies 4.0

EM: After the major entrance in the skin asset with the Astra Skinline, what will be the next step in Astra’s growth?

SS: In line with our global strategy, the next step has been the development of the line “Pure Beauty”, following the great success after the launch of the first collection. Trends state that consumers are increasingly focused on the natural percentage of the ingredients in cosmetic products, and Astra wants to offer a comprehensive selection to create fresh and eco-friendly looks.

EM: What about your distribution in Italy, and do you plan to widen it?

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interview

EM: Astra is synonym with inclusivity, breaking down all barriers in order to allow others to be themselves… Besides the projects that you have accomplished in the past two years, what other strategies are you going to adopt in order to advocate equal opportunities and a multicultural approach, going beyond any barrier?

SS: People are and will always be the core of our company’s mission. All the projects followed during the past two years have invited our communities to reflect uponinclusivity and diversity, going beyond the conventional channels of the beauty world. Future initiatives alike will always be part of our great project #BEAUTYISDIVERSITY. Starting fromour social channels, which will always be our means to give voice to those who want to express their uniqueness, we will work with determination to the creation of cosmetics designed for everyone, despite age and gender.

C.S.

EM: What about foreign markets, what countries are you present in?

SS: Astra is present in 38 countries all over the world, from Europe to Middle East and South America.

We are proud of our customer retention rate, and of theconsolidation of ourrelationship with old time customers establishedduring the past year, despite the difficulties; we expect a growth incountry numbersand in the percentage of the brand’s global turnover.

EM: As to last year e-commerce global development, what actions is Astra Make-Up pursuing?

SS: We are focusing on the strengthening of our website, of customer care service and general growth strategies for the ultimate development of this distribution channel. We strongly believe that e-commerce will become a key asset in the global turnover of the company, becoming a showcase for retail development. One of our latest projects involves an important partnership with a renowned international marketplace.

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ASTRA MAKE-UP CREATES ITS FIRST SKIN CARE LINE TO TRANSFORM THE SKIN CARE ROUTINE INTO A SENSORIAL AND PLEASANT PATHWAY: FROM GENTLE AND DEEP CLEANSING TO TONING AND MOISTURIZING TREATMENTS. A RELAXING AND PLEASANT PATH THAT LEADS TO THE SUMMIT OF BEAUTY: BEING YOURSELF IN THE BEST SUIT, YOUR OWN SKIN.

WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM

FLASH/NEWS

Cosmoprof AsiA AnnounCes new show DAtes in 2022 Cosmoprof Asia, Asia’s leading beauty trade fair, which was scheduled to be held on 17-19 November 2021 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, announced today the 25th edition will move to 16 – 18 November 2022. Considering the on-going uncertainty associated with the pandemic, and travel restrictions still being in place, the Organisers, in consultation with customers and industry stakeholders, decided to host the show in 2022, when international trade and business are expected to return and participants can enjoy the high-quality event they have come to expect. While waiting to meet each other face-toface in November 2022, Cosmoprof Asia’s beauty community will have the opportunity to participate in an international digital event to maintain business connections and commercial interactions. From 8 to 16 November 2021, Cosmoprof Asia Digital Week will return to offer a match-making platform for buyers and sellers to interact with companies, view new product launches, place orders, meet clients and potential customers, and stay up to date on beauty trends and technology in 2021/2022. “Such a tough decision to move the date of the in-person event aims to guarantee safety and proper business conditions to our international exhibitors and operators,” said Antonio Bruzzone, General Manager of BolognaFiere Group and Director of Cosmoprof Asia Ltd. “For more than two decades, Cosmoprof Asia has gathered under one roof companies, buyers, retailers, and distributors from all over the world, who are interested in new opportunities in the fastest-growing markets of the APAC region. Our stakeholders deserve a highly performing exhibition during these tumultuous times.” “We believe this is the best decision for both exhibitors and visitors,” said David Bondi, Senior Vice President – Asia of Informa Markets and Director of Cosmoprof Asia Ltd. “We are 100% committed to delivering a high-quality event that will offer true value to all participants. We want all our attendees to feel safe and comfortable when returning to the show in 2022.” Cosmoprof and Cosmopack Asia will be an ideal showcase for the entire cosmetics industry, from finished products and brands to packaging suppliers and manufacturers, joining in Hong Kong from across the world. In 2019, Cosmoprof Asia hosted 2,955 18 exhibitors from 48 countries and regions and 40,046 buyers from 129 countries and regions.

Colour Journey: the colourfilled adventure by Lumson What happens when the brightest, most vivid, and most intense colours meet Lumson’s creativity and know-how? Something magical is the result: even the simplest and most minimalistic packaging is transformed into something unique. Unexpected combinations of colours and new effects take shape, giving life to an emotion-filled adventure.

A JOURNEY WORTH TELLING “Colour Journey is a trip through colour, in a moment in history where we all feel the need for more lightness and vitality”, explains Romualdo Priore, Marketing Director for Lumson. “Through the shades of colour, we’ve given a concrete answer to this need for joy and energy while continually maintaining a connection with the simplicity and elegance which define our designs. As was the case with TAG, one of our best-sellers, this packaging retains its original charm and sophistication but with added individuality and character. And it’s here where all of Lumson’s expertise, technical know-how, and technology is revealed: in the ability to be able to transform something so simple and basic into something unconventional”. Celebrated for its trendsetting, minimalistic design concepts, Lumson, a leader in primary cosmetic packaging and dispensing systems, is setting its sights for cosmetic packaging on a new aesthetic and sensory experience. And thanks to its expertise in decoration technology and to its research of new effects, the company is giving life to unique products with a distinctive identity. Thanks to colour, decorations, and features that enhance the sensory experience – a key element of cosmetic products – the simple and clean lines are given new life through the way light plays off the packaging and other novel effects. Vivid colours, the answer to our need for energy, literally “bring to light” new emotions in us: blue evokes trust and calmness, purple stimulates creativity and imagination, green induces balance and stability, and yellow reflects joy and optimism.

THANKS TO COLOUR, PACKAGING IS SEEN IN A WHOLE NEW LIGHT Colour Journey is a fascinating quest for the discovery of the possibilities offered by visual effects and decorations. Thanks to these effects obtained by decorations and colour, packaging is seen in a whole new light. From solid colours that slowly fade into a gradient effect, to pure high-intensity and semi-transparent colours that enhance the beauty of glass packaging.

On glass, a valuable and noble material, the delicate shades become inviting sorbet-coloured tints, slowly fading out into tones that bring to mind the cool, fresh feeling of an ice cube. Colour effects and transparency leave glimpses into the heart of the packaging while the shine/matte contrasts create threedimensional effects. The jump from idea to product is a short one: “In Lumson, the colour can be developed with the customer on the basis of request and necessity.

In the Colour Laboratory, one of the feathers in our hat, the customer can select the colour they prefer, work with a Pantone colour of their choice, or directly create it with us as a team, putting two heads together during the process. And the results are truly incredible”, concludes Priore. Colour Journey is, most of all, a journey towards the possibility that creativity can offer when technical expertise is combined with technological innovation. It’s a journey that outlines a new future for cosmetic packaging. A future made of colour, technology, and creativity.

+90% N AT U R A L ORIGIN INGREDIENTS

U N C O N TA M I N AT E D , C L E A R , A W A R E : BEAUTY WITHOUT THE EXCESS AND REDISCOVERS ITS PUREST ESSENCE.

ASTRA CONTINUES ITS JOURNEY THROUGH ECO-FRIENDLY COSMETICS

BY COMPLETING THE RANGE WITH ALL OF THE NECESSARY PRODUCTS TO CREATE A MAKE-UP LOOK WITH PRODUCTS THAT ARE FORMULATED WITH MORE THAN 90% OF INGREDIENTS OF NATURAL ORIGIN. VERY HIGH PERFORMANCE MEETS GREEN FORMULAS CREATED WITH ACTIVE INGREDIENTS OBTAINED FROM THE FRUITS OF NATURE, FOR A BOUQUET OF GENUINE AND VIBRANT SHADES. WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM

EVENTS

VIRTUAL EVENT

Wecosmoprof WeCOSMOPROF International, the exciting new digital event organised by Cosmoprof Asia Ltd (joint venture between BolognaFiere and Informa Markets), tapped into the pent-up enthusiasm of beauty and cosmetic industry stakeholders from all four corners of the world to generate an unprecedented number of business meeting requests, networking matches and online webinar attendees.

Exciting results with over 52,200 online meetings requested SPECTACULAR STATISTICS the 10-day online event featured 698 companies from 40 different countries and regions and more than 20,000 international stakeholders from Asia, europe, Americas, Australasia, Middle east, Africa and Oceania. thanks to the cutting-edge digital services and implementation offered by Cosmoprof My Match, companies, operators, distributors, retailers and buyers seamlessly promoted their businesses through the interactive and multilingual platform. Highly customisable and high-performing, it generated an outstanding count of more than

NATIONAL EXCELLENCE The global event featured a deep dive into the excellence of all things Italian with over 230 Italian companies taking part in Made in Italy, thanks to support from the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, ItA – Italian trade Agency, and Cosmetica Italia. In addition, special mention goes to the 13 national organizations of Brazil, China, France, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Korea, Lithuania, Poland, spain, switzerland and UK. Korea, in particular, presented 102 businesses with the support of KOtRA – Korea tradeInvestment Promotion Agency and, while spain supported 45 exhibitors in collaboration with the spanish union brought

by ICeX (Invest in spain). “thanks to the experience gained

52,200 requests for B2B online meetings. In addition, over 5,000 operators attended WeCOsMOPROF International’s numerous talks and presentations dedicated to product insights, ensuring they remained up-to-date with today’s cosmetic industry and caught dynamic previews of future market trends and evolutions. “WeCOsMOPROF International proudly represents the culmination of 50 years of Cosmoprof events,” said Gianpiero Calzolari, President of BolognaFiere. “this new platform has proved itself fully capable of adapting to all market and societal transformations, while still providing the industry’s most innovative meeting and matching tools and implementing successful commercial opportunities all around the world. WeCOsMOPROF International was made possible thanks to the collaboration with Informa Markets and the combined efforts of partners Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, Cosmoprof Asia, Cosmoprof north America, Cosmoprof India and Cosmoprof CBe Asean.”

DYNAMIC EVENTS AND DEMOS WeCOsMOPROF International offered attendees a rich calendar of concurrent events with 15 webinars covering topics such as Asian trends, Beauty Rebound, Data Intelligence, sustainability, Inclusivity and Digital Beauty.

through our international events and our close relationship with the most important players in the American, eMeA and Asia-Pacific markets, WeCOsMOPROF International offered a remarkable support to our beauty community around the world”, highlighted David Bondi, senior vice President – Asia of Informa Markets and Director of Cosmoprof Asia Ltd. “In times of social distancing, we provided the cosmetic industry with a platform that was suitable for all, with innovative virtual support, cutting-edge digital tools, and seamless networking, especially putting the world directly in touch with the Chinese market. WeCOsMOPROF International is today’s highest performing business tool for restoring interaction between industry supply and demand.”

For more information: www.cosmoprof.com

FLASH/NEWS

LUXE PACK

MONACO 2021

The premier tradeshow for creative packaging will gather once again premium packaging manufacturers from all over the world under one roof in Monaco

GUERLAIN APPOINTS VIOLETTE AS ITS NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF MAKE-UP

Violette is a young Frenchwoman whose career already includes prestigious names in the make-up world (Makeup Designer for Dior, Global beauty Director of Estée Lauder) and whose work is followed massively on social media (with 400k followers on Instagram). She has recently been appointed Creative Director of Makeup for Guerlain, a house synonymous with French beauty and constant innovation, still emphasizing modernity despite being over 190 years old. Ever since she was fascinated as a little girl by Guerlain’s Météorites with the little pastel-coloured pearls for the complexion, Violette could not wait to become a woman and indulge her femininity.

With this appointment, Violette is delighted to work with an iconic house that has such a rich heritage and where she can pass on Guerlain’s values in makeup to a new generation and “share it with those who, no matter their gender, celebrate beauty today and will celebrate it tomorrow.”

Although she moved to the USA in 2015, Violette continues to have Parisian chic, combined with creativity, daring, an eye for high standards and a genuine sense of commitment. The Guerlain-Violette duo are perfect to write the next chapter in the history of beauty.

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“Finally, the trade show after 18 months will be back again on 27, 28, and 29 September 2021 at the Grimaldi Forum, and it will be a key event supporting the recovery” explained Fabienne GERMOND, Director of the LUXE PACK Monaco trade show. Last November the My LUXE PACK digital platform freed us from time and geographic limits bringing together supply and demand. The platform will be available all year round allowing those who cannot travel to stay in touch with the current highlight and contact suppliers at any time. Although digital technology was really helpful during the lockdown, it cannot replace the pleasure of seeing products in real life, of touching new materials, of feeling new formulae. In addition, professionals need to meet to share, build, make contacts, and implement projects meeting the requirements of the Luxury market. So far over 450 exhibitors including 69 new exhibitors with various profiles from luxury packaging leaders to small businesses mastering very specific expertise will present their most creative innovations.

This Year’s Highlights This year the show will feature a packed program with marketing topics around the notion of luxury as well as conferences and technical workshops. Three major business issues facing brands will be highlighted at LPMC 2021: Green: For twelve years LUXE PACK in Green has become the benchmark event showcasing the best eco responsible solutions and initiatives of exhibitors. Every day, dedicated conferences will be hosted by committed international stakeholders, such as BSR, BAIN & COMPANY, POSITIVE LUXURY, MOET HENNESSY, and CHANEL. China: In 2025, 50% of luxury purchases worldwide will be made

by Chinese consumers: a market as essential as it is atypical for international brands. LUXE PACK Monaco will offer a sensory and personalised experience that will give the keys to China by providing free individual consulting, expert round tables, and exhibition of specific products, in partnership with the brand intelligence agency CentDegres. New Materials: Brand demand for eco-designed materials is accelerating. Visitors are looking for solutions that go beyond the basic recycled version of conventional materials. Visitors will discover innovative materials resulting from French public research serving Packaging and Luxury, through the CARATS network (CARnot Technical and Scientific Support).

The traditional lip balm stick is now available with a sustainable touch: a mono-material design in 100% PP optimized for recycling.

The airtight closure keeps the product perfectly moist.

With a straight and slanted mechanism, it is the perfect solution for tinted lip balm and sun protection.

Company

MYC

A GLOBAL PACKAGING INNOVATOR

Export Magazine met the CEO and Co-founders of MYC, Wilson Chen and Andrea Perego, as well as Sonia Cerato, Global Marketing Director, Andrea Venturelli, MYC Europe Technical Manager and Pierpaolo Beretta, MYC Industrial Designer to discuss the company and its recent acquisition of Grioni

Wilson Chen

Andrea Perego

Sonia Cerato

EXPORT MAGAZINE: MYC is made up of a team of experts with many years of experience in plastic and aluminum manufacturing. When did this ‘adventure’ begin and who were the founders?

WILSON CHEN: MYC Packaging Innovation was founded at the end of 2012 with the ambition of producing beautiful, innovative, and functional makeup packaging. Andrea Perego joined the company a few months later: Andrea and I had worked together for so many years, we shared the same values and the same dream, it was easy for us to join forces and bring our project to life. Now, almost 10 years later, we are really proud of our achievements and excited about the future.

EM: How important is it to be a packaging innovator and how can your strengths be summarized, in both operating units, in Italy and in China?

ANDREA PEREGO: Nowadays brands and consumers are increasingly informed and demanding when it comes to quality, performance and

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Andrea Venturelli

Pierpaolo Beretta

sustainability. In order to meet these changing needs, I think innovation is the only answer. At MYC, we are always trying to think differently and improve what exists already, so we never stop testing new materials and technologies. Innovation is really part of our DNA: our products are conceived, designed and patented in our creative hub in Italy and then they are made into industrial reality in our production units in China. In our new plant in Italy, we would like to sponsor zero mile innovation, using local raw materials whenever possible and benefiting from our strategic location in the Italian cosmetic valley.

EM: Specifically, what are the services offered through the Italian site to fulfil and, even better, to anticipate the clientele’s requirements?

AP: Agility is the key word! From our Italy-based plant, we want to offer high flexibility in terms of order quantities and services, different personalization options thanks to our in-house decoration lines and what we call hybrid solutions, combining components made in China with components made in Italy.

company

EM: Does this new route mean expanding your portfolio?

SONIA CERATO: Grioni’s products perfectly complement MYC’s portfolio. Lip primary packaging has always been MYC’s workhorse, now we can boast of an enlarged collection comprising new sustainable materials and more skincare-oriented solutions. Lip balm, in the first place, but also versatile sticks in different formats with airtight closures suitable for multiple applications, from colour to treatment and sun protection.

EM: Tell us a bit more about your creative hub in Italy, what services do you offer from there?

Pierpaolo Beretta: our mission is to transform ideas into real products. We support our customers with graphic concepts, 3D rendering and prototyping, we help them visualize their product before developing it. We also like challenges and always try to push beyond the boundaries when creating a new design. It’s a combination of art and engineering, with a clear focus on final consumer.

EM: Many manufacturers are developing and making new types of packaging with materials and concepts of sustainability. Is this your case as well? Does this mean reviewing in part your industrial processes, while keeping the highest standards of excellence?

ANDREA VENTURELLI: We recently launched our sustainability programme called LIF which stands for Low Impact Future. MYC is committed to LOWering its IMPACT on the environment to build a positive FUTURE for the generations to come. It means redesigning manufacturing processes to reduce emissions, waste generation and energy consumption and implement circularity, applying eco-design principles and offering safe and reliable eco-materials without compromising on luxury and quality. Our METALLICA LINE is the perfect example: unique mono-material solutions made from 100% aluminum, a precious circular material that can be recycled forever without losing its properties (see picture).

EM: In recent years the market has undergone a great acceleration. How do you succeed in being ‘speed to market’?

C.S. WC: The synergies between Italy and China are the key to our success. They have always been our distinctive feature and now that we have a MYC AND GRIONI: TOGETHER TO DEVELOP NEW production site in Italy, they will be even stronger.

INNOVATIVE PROJECTS FOR THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY Time-to-market for us not only means optimizing As the saying goes, “two heads are better than one” and in this case we processes to increase productivity and reduce leadare talking about two leading companies in cosmetics packaging joining time, it’s also about working closely with customers forces, following MYC’s acquisition of Grioni, to become even stronger, more from the very beginning of a project, it’s about innovative and more flexible. MYC, founded by Wilson Chen and Andrea sharing, trying to anticipate challenges, and thinking Perego is a packaging innovator that designs, develops and manufactures about the full picture. We don’t only focus on cosmetic packaging solutions. The Italian company Grioni has been active in packaging manufacturing itself; we create solutions moulding plastics since 1963 and now specializes in moulding and decoration, having in mind compatibility with the formula, the selling lipbalms, and more complex lipsticks, stylos or pencils. Grioni brings to filling process and the consumer’s experience.

MYC its more than 60 years of experience in plastic manufacturing and its Italybased production facilities join the Chinese company’s manufacturing sites.

EM: You recently acquired Grioni on the Italian The Italian firm’s expertise also comprises in-house decoration (silk-screen market, another production company in the printing, hot stamping, 5-colour offset and spray coating) and moulding. packaging sector. Can we interpret this as Thanks to this agreement, MYC will be able to penetrate a more skincarea desire to add new services for customers, oriented market and extend its product portfolio, with new sustainable including the production in Italy of some types solutions and materials. The key advantages for Grioni from this acquisition of packaging? include brand restyling, global expansion, a global sales force, penetration AP: Absolutely. With production sites located in both in make-up and higher mass market (for example thanks to the aluminium China and Europe we can be extremely versatile components of MYC), competitive mould-making in China and production in and offer different solutions according to the target Italy and hybrid solutions, with more technical components made in China and market and product positioning. Hybrid solutions or more “commodity” components made in Italy. The resulting advantages for the mould making in China and production in Italy, these MYC Group are increased manufacturing capability, a greater global presence, are just some of the examples of our new services. a stronger technical team, even stronger synergies between Italy (creativity, 25 design and innovation) and China (competitive manufacturing), more patented innovation and increased flexibility for customers.

COMPANY

Confalonieri home to innovation for over 50 years

Being able to read changes, if possible even anticipating them, is something of a habit for CONFALONIERI MATITE, this has simply been its way of being and doing business for over 50 years.

This is one of the distinctive features of the commercial policy of the company based in Gordona, in the picturesque setting of Valchiavenna, a small paradise where being green is completely natural.

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The Research & Development division of CONFALONIERI MATITE works constantly on new products to propose, successfully interpreting the trends of the national and intenational make-up markets. CONFALONIERI - faithful to its founding values – keeps one move ahead, succeeding in creating its intuitions, making pencils with a soul that is increasingly Green.

COMPANY

Matite After THINK GREENER it is the turn of COLIBRÌ.

The COLIBRI’ pencils - eye contour and eye shadow, lip contour and lipstick, blush and highlighter and for brows - can also be certified COSMOS ORGANIC (NATURE, CCPB and VEGAN FORMULAS).

The ingredients are the perfect synthesis of the almost maniacal attention that CONFALONIERI has always had for our skin.

Jojoba Oil, wax from Colza oil, Jojoba wax, highmelting waxes and Gamma Oryzanol give this line incredible properties.

The COLIBRI’ pencils are very creamy with a strong emollient and moisturizing action, they are not greasy and have antioxidant properties to protect skin from stress and photo-ageing.

The texture is creamy with a high percentage of pigment, the smoothness of application is excellent as is its staying power, even at high temperatures.

COLIBRI’ (which means hummingbird) is not a name by chance… its appearance conveys the brio, elegance, originality, lightness and at the same time the tenacity of a tiny bird – the smallest in the world – on which depends the fate of many species.

Since 1969, CONFALONIERI MATITE has confirmed its passion for things done well. The continuous thread that runs from past to present, that of quality, has never been broken and remains constant, as always encouraged by Elis-abetta Gallese, founder of CONFALONIERI MATITE and mother of the current chairman, Luca Confalonieri. It was Elisabetta Gallese herself who had the ingenious intuition of devel-oping what until then had been the family business, a company specialized in producing graphite pencils and coloured crayons for schools and drawing, as well as a series of other products, again for art, for the tailoring sector and also for Giardinette della Innocenti, an Italian car manufacturer, in line with the demands of the national and international market.

Today, CONFALONIERI MATITE has a new image and taking inspiration from playful elements and situations, at times irreverent, brings back to the fire the only star of its history: the pencil.

NOT A PENCIL, THE PENCIL. Real pencils are made from wood.

The new identity promotes and develops even more, if possible, what for CONFALONIERI has become over the years not only a professional challenge but an opportunity to promote products, exclusively wooden pencils – 100% Made in Italy – that are increasingly sustainable and respectful of the environ-ment.

CONFALONIERI MATITE Srl Via Al Piano - Zona Industriale - 23020 Gordona - Italy confaloniericosmetica.com

confalonieri-cosmetics

confaloniericosmetics

INTERVIEW

RED OF VIEW

PRESENTS ITS “SKIN CARE PROJECT” THE NATURAL EVOLUTION OF ITS ATTITUDE TO BEAUTY AND CARE

INTERVIEW WITH CATERINA BONDIOLI, CEO RED OF VIEW, AND LAURA PECIS EXPORT MAGAZINE: Is there an evolution in the journey of Red of View?

CATERINA BONDIOLI: On our daily journey we are always looking for stimuli, just as we are always ready to receive stimuli to evolve. This year, RED OF VIEW has concretized its “SKIN CARE PROJECT”, which has been in the company since it was founded in 2006. So, in terms of evolution, this project is a “natural evolution” of our activity: our expertise in the world of emulsions (but not only) finds in skincare products the chance to express high profile technology giving us the opportunity to offer our clients a new segment of quality products. The “SKIN CARE PROJECT” thus comes into being from the concretization of a series of situations and conditions which have been built up over time and which have culminated in collaboration with Laura Pecis, a professional we have known forever and with whom we have worked for many years on several “challenging” and successful projects. Our long journey together finds us engaged in a professional interaction based on mutual esteem and trust. Laura has worked in the past with the most highly esteemed Italian dermatologists and in her formulas she has always taken into account the individual problems linked to the various types of skin, the physiology, the metabolism and the genetic make-up of people, their age and the climate they live in. The products that are

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coming into being therefore have solid foundations based on competence, not only from the formula point of view but also from the type of offer that will arise depending on the needs of the various skin types.

EM: When will the official announcement be made?

CB: This interview is the first communication of the year: the “SKIN CARE PROJECT” will have its official presentation at the next Cosmoprof/Cosmopack in 2022.

EM: What characterizes the Skin Care Project?

CB: Thanks to the team dedicated to skincare, made up of some young female researchers who are particularly attentive to the new age-groups of consumers, as well as of Laura and myself, we will be able to offer innovative products which take into account the most topical demands of the market, including in particular respect for the environment and for the planet, to guarantee a better future for the future generations. We will benefit from the experience and the dynamics matured to date in the world of advanced contracting, so that our proposals are valid from every point of view, from the sensory nature to effectiveness, for every age and type of skin. These proposals have in themselves a value, are “rational”, to quote an expression dear to Laura.

INTERVIEW

EM: What does your attitude to beauty and care consist of?

CB: In studying the formulas for the “SKIN CARE PROJECT”, we have kept the same awareness and attention that we devote to make-up: the skin is a delicate organ, to be preserved with care through the attentive development of products for daily use. The result of the synergic action of skin care products and make-up produced with the aim of the well-being of the skin guarantees the best satisfaction for the consumer.

EM: What target do you intend addressing?

CB: Our target is a demanding customer, competent and informed, who addresses attentive and aware consumers.

The focus that RED OF VIEW, its clients and their consumers have in common is the quality that first of all comes from sharing knowledge, experience and know-how. Quality comes from truth and transparency in every phase of the product.

EM: What will happen at the organizational and industrial level?

CB: What usually happens in these cases: it is work in progress where we will be engaged in separating the production area of make-up from that of Skin Care, buying new ad hoc machinery, so that we have the most highly advanced instruments to be performing, competitive and fast on the market. The real challenge will be to guarantee quality in rapidity. We have however already taken the first step for the creation of a Skin Care division: visually identifying the start of the project through the creation of an ad hoc graphic design. The red of our logo, which immediately refers to the make-up product par excellence – lipstick – gives way to a Pantone shade especially developed to convey the principles underlying the “Skin Care Project.”

EM: For some time now there has been talk of ‘curative make-up’. Do you offer this to your clients?

CB: We have had the opportunity to experiment very many products of this type in the history of our company.

At the moment these products defined ‘hybrid’ represent a real exploit on the market. A facial product which is presented as a cream, which moisturizes, can be antiageing, a very rich make-up which is also Skin Care, is at the moment particularly appreciated by consumers. The client who has looked after her skin, adding a touch of colour feels fully satisfied.

EM: Is the advent of social media positive for the cosmetics industry, in particular make-up?

CB: The spread of information certainly helps the market and us, as manufacturers. Young people are increasingly competent in using products, also thanks to the tutorials on the web: each proposal has a style, strength and personality of its own. Alongside the competence of the make-up artists and the users of make-up, there is also the expertise of the manufacturer, that produces and makes commercial the countless types of inspiration.

EM: Are brands increasingly addressing the targets of the Millennials and GenZ? CB: It depends on the brands, even though I consider that the majority are moving towards GenZ. Recently there has also been talk of the Gen Alpha, born from 2010 onwards, the representatives of some characteristics that will be increasingly present in the years to come: technology, sustainability and inclusivity. Manufacturers have always made diversified proposals for the various generations, however, today, as never before, GenZ represents a new entity, a strong voice, a keystone which comes from the Internet which cannot be ignored.

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INTERVIEW

EM: Can we say that today there is more freedom to express oneself, on the subject of make-up?

CB: I like the term freedom, because it is a value which is valid in every field, at social level. What I find particularly interesting is that today freedom is used to express one’s own individuality, beyond any belonging to a particular group.

EM: Every company has a mantra of its own, what is yours?

CB: People First is the intention of RED OF VIEW, it is the idea that we want to make true every day, in the conviction that success comes from the contribution of each person.

It is a concept that is valid in nature, in life and also in a company. People First means finding and exalting the

talent of each person, giving each one the space of action necessary to express themselves. Having an attentive eye and an ear every day is our constant work, it is the continuous search for a single objective: that the people who work for RED OF VIEW ‘make up’ RED OF VIEW. EM: It would seem that at RED OF VIEW you are never content, with expressing yourself to the best, to growing…

CB: Beyond the entrepreneurial objective typical of all industrial companies of any size, for us growing means the ability to evolve. As well as the “SKIN CARE PROJECT”, we are working on other ideas which we hope to propose as soon as possible. When so many talents unite their potential, they can only grow together.

Claudia Stagno

Interview with Laura Pecis skin care project consultant towards new and interesting horizons. Another important aspect is to identify the target to address; the proposal will vary according to the consumer, whether it is a child, a teenager or an adult.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Laura, you can boast of more than thirty years of experience in the world of cosmetics, you have formulated lines of cosmetics for some of the most important brands on the market. What took you to RED OF VIEW? LAURA PECIS: I have known RED OF VIEW ever since its foundation; a relationship has been built up and consolidated on mutual trust esteem, as Caterina said. In view of the proposal of collaboration I received from Caterina, once I had left my position managing R & D, the reason that persuaded me to accept was the perception and the ideal image that I have of how a company that works in contracting has to be. In RED OF VIEW and in Caterina I identified the competence, the professionality and seriousness that normally a brand asks of a supplier.

EM: Do you think that as well as counting on a solid scientific basis, the formulator also has to have a certain marketing approach?

LP: Absolutely, in my past experience, whenever it was possible to work hand in hand with the marketing department, the results were beyond all expectations. At times the best ideas come precisely from R & D; for example the study on certain raw materials can direct marketing

EM: Do you think that every cosmetologist expresses themselves with a language of their own?

LP: Definitely. Each of us has our own way of expressing ourselves and operating: mine is based on simplicity, I always aim to obtain simple formulas, without frills and this, believe me, is not at all easy.

Behind a formula which I define “rational”, there is a great deal of study, research on using only the essential raw materials, perhaps only one that is present in a whole cosmetics line.

EM: Is it important to follow the trends of the moment?

LP: They certainly have to be taken into account; today our clients, the brands, thanks to the impulse given by the new generations, are asking for products that are green, eco-sustainable, that are ‘good’ for the consumers and for the environment. On our side, the search for raw materials that meet the current demands is increasing; it will then be up to us to formulate cosmetics that bring innovation and value, with an excellent price/quality ratio.

EM: So this is what will happen at RED OF VIEW? LP: I am excited about the new “SKIN CARE PROJECT” of RED OF VIEW. We have already laid the main foundations of our journey, we will start off with a portfolio of formulas on hydration which we can adapt according to the customer’s needs. We are creating an exhaustive library, that we can access at any time.

Tailor-made will be the leitmotif of our modus operandi.

C.S.

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SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING SOLUTIONS MONO-MATERIAL PACKAGING, POST-CONSUMER RECYCLED PLASTIC AND GREEN PE BIO-PLASTIC

www.induplastgroup.com stock.induplastgroup.com

EVENTS

PITTI FRAGRANZE ARTISTIC PERFUMERY RETURNS TO FLORENCE Pitti Fragranze returns to a physical format

Pitti Fragranze goes digital as well, on Pitti Connect

Pitti Fragranze, from 17 to 19 September 2021 at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence, will be the first event in the sector to return to being held in person after the long forced break. We are working to offer you a physical edition in total safety, as has already been the case with the other Pitti fairs that have just ended in Florence.

Industry professionals will return to Florence to live - finally, together - a unique experience and learn more about the most established Maisons and the most innovative brands, immersed in an elegant and refined atmosphere. The most respected perfumers will present their creations alongside exciting young talents, beauty lines and the most innovative products related to well-being and self-care—a 360-degree view of an ever-expanding market segment.

The physical dimension will be supported and integrated by the digital one thanks to the Pitti Connect platform, which will go online from 7 September (until 22 November) and accompany visitors on a journey of discovery through the Fragranze brands, integrating the opportunities to network, generate contacts with exhibitors, and discover more editorial content. New at this edition: the possibility to book appointments during the fair in advance, online. Do not miss this service!

Events, projects, and special participations: save the date!

Pitti Fragranze returns to present artistic perfumery, market trends, and the more contemporary olfactory culture, also thanks to a series of events and special projects featuring key industry players: a new edition of RAW, the format on the world of raw materials that has become an unmissable event; the retrospective focus on the great masters of artistic perfumery, curated by Chandler Burr, leading expert in the sector and artistic director of the fair, who will also present his very popular talks on the hot topics of the moment; the events of the Fragranze brands, special participations, the most popular international experts. A calendar of special events to be unveiled soon!

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the world of international artistic perfumery presents the latest news and trends of the future of olfactory culture 10 X 10. THE MATHEMATICS OF PITTI FRAGRANZE Fragranze also pays tribute to Pitti Uomo 100 with a special installation on the Ground Floor of the central Hall, curated by Chandler Burr, perfume critic and artistic director of the show.

Ten fragrances created by ten exceptional noses take centrestage, to answer the question: do male fragrances really exist? It is a multisensory experience marked by the freedom to choose the fragrances that are best loved.

PASSION, CREATIVITY, INNOVATION, SUSTAINABILITY: 2021, A NEW YEAR WITH MANE SUCCESSES MANE perfumers illuminate 2021 with brilliant scents which combine MANE’s purest natural ingredients and innovative captives with a conscious green approach.

Ethics and aesthetic by MANE and Trussardi.

A perfume about women’s empowerment, solidarity, green conscience, and inclusiveness. Trussardi is the first perfume of the Maison dedicated to women determined to always be in charge of their destiny.

A fragrance full of harmonized contrasts created by the inspiring duo of Violaine Collas and Julie Massé.

An olfactory score evoking Italy’s vibrancy and excellence with a surprising Italian accord on top, a hypnotizing duo of white Dalia and Jasmine Absolute in the heart, enriched with an exclusive MANE interpretation of a timeless ingredient: Lavender Jungle Essence™. The drydown reveals a velvety touch, where refined Suede notes capture brave Patchouli and sensual Violet nuances, leaving an unforgettable sillage. A composition for today’s women that revolves around the cardinal points of an Italian spirit and feminine boldness.

The first Eco-Designed certified fragrance launched by Mavive. This certification was made possible thanks to GREEN MOTION™, an exclusive eco-conscious tool created by MANE, that rates the environmental impact of the perfume’s ingredients according to the Twelve Principles of Green Chemistry. Veronique Nyberg signs the new fragrance Police To Be Green, a young and fresh unisex creation interpreting a renewed consciousness of oneself and the world. With its authentic character and harmony, it embodies the universal spirit in an open dialogue with boys and girls who celebrate the freedom to express themselves.

A sparkling fragrance that opens with fresh and Spicy notes of Bergamot and Cardamom Essential Oil, enriched by juicy touches of Mandarin. The heart, an elegant Floral bouquet, is sensual with nuances of Jasmine made precious by aquatic tonalities of Peony. A Woody drydown, with enveloping Sandalwood and touches of Vanilla Pure Jungle Essence™, closes the composition by offering a deep immersion in the nature.

Emanuel Ungaro has introduced the new signature scent Intense for Her, conceived for a cosmopolite, metropolitan young woman who feels the perfume she wears as an empowering means and an authentic form of freedom and self-expression. Blended by perfumer Julie Massé, Intense for Her is a pink-colored oriental blend that evokes the emotion of transparent flowers and the joyful, vital and protective power of nature. Top notes of Litchee, Apple and Blackcurrant come together to diffuse crispy sensations of instinctive sweetness. A unique combination of Mugane™, Freesia and Jasmine pervades the heart of the jus envisioning modern femininity as an explosion of floral vitality.

Touches of Lorenox™ add an Ambery and Leathery twist to the scent, while Sandalwood and Vanilla bring the lasting promise of a warm and sensual cuddle.

A new MANE fine fragrance success blooms at Dolce&Gabbana: Dolce Rose created by perfumer Violaine Collas, is an addictive fruity floral combining delicate Rose Absolute and crisp Rose Centifolia Superessence with soft Musks and tangy Redcurrants.

Dolce Rose celebrates the most iconic of flowers – a symbol of love, beauty and femininity that is one of Dolce&Gabbana’s iconic patterns. Rose Centifolia Superessence reveals the crisp and fresh facets of the flower, while Rose Absolute brings a more sensual and powdery quality – the iconic rose note.

EVENTS

TFWA EXHIBITION IS BACK!

The last year and a half have not been easy for anyone with the need to adapt to a world that has changed and is continuing to change.

Flexibility is something that everyone has had to get used to and the TFWA Exhibition is no exception.

New dates and opening hours The changes to the TFWA show can be seen immediately by looking at the calendar and the times: the dates are from Sunday evening 24 October to Thursday afternoon, 28 October, giving exhibitors more time to prepare for the show after the summer break. Four days of show instead of five make it more compact, but the working day has been

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After a long wait, Cannes is once again the venue for travel retail’s most important international appointment from 24 to 28 October extended, with opening hours now from 8.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. (except for the last day, when the doors will close at 5.00 p.m.) so that delegates can achieve more by starting earlier and finishing later.

EVENTS

The digital side TFWA i.lab goes 100% digital this year on the TFWA 365 platform, a year-round resources built on the three pillars of Discovery, learning and Networking, where the TFWA World Conference will be livestreamed, and where follow-up ONE2ONE meetings can be arranged up to 15 days after the event closes.

A safe show With the ease of restrictions imposed by the Covid 19 pandemic and growing confidence, TFWA World Exhibition is confident, as TFWA President Jaya Singh says, “that the return of this event is what the duty free and travel retail industry needs to help it back on its feet.” Every precaution is being taken to ensure a safe and successful show, as the President’s words confirm: “We’re working hard to make sure we deliver a safe, business-focused and impactful event that sows the seeds of future business success for delegates.” The city of Cannes is also working hard to provide a safe, business-ready environment with strict hygiene measures in hotels, restaurants and transport links. The Palais des Festivals, venue of the show, offers a 24-hour medical concierge service including online consultation with general or specialist doctors, leaving delegates free to focus on getting the most from their time in Cannes.

Support from the industry for this year’s show continues to increase, with more than 200 brands and many major buying companies confirming their

intention to attend the event, and more than 10,000 square metres of Exhibition floorspace secured in the Palais des Festivals. The presence of big brand names like Chanel, L’Oréal, Lacoste and Ermenegildo Zegna is confirmed as well as the participation of major travel retailers such as DFS Group, Dufry, Lagardère Travel Retail, Gebr. Heinemann, Dubai Duty Free and Qatar Duty Free.

There will be the usual opportunities to mix with colleagues and make new contacts, capitalizing on the great networking benefits the event is famous for. It’s back to business at TFWA Cannes 2021 with a format focused on the essentials and ambition of being more productive than ever this year for delegates.

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FARM TO FACE with Regenerative agriculture is the latest sustainable beauty VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director of the highly successful International Luxury Brand Consultancy. For over 25 years Valérie has been at the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. With her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and practical experience IL Brand Consultancy has become one of the most sought after management and distribution agencies specialising in global beauty. Recognised for the breadth of business sectors and extensive distribution channels it works with, ILBC’s international client portfolio spans both well-established names and newly-emerging brands in hair care, make-up, skincare, fragrance, devices and top-to-toe brands. Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies and business development is combined with an inspirational and forward-thinking approach.

Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach, elevate their brand presence, improve their business performance and achieve commercial success globally.

A further aspect of her business is her skill in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth which has led Valérie to regularly advise Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. This capability in combination with her advanced qualifications and proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director.

From her CEW mentoring, organisation of the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) and guest lecture programmes, Valérie is a passionate and dynamic advocate of the global beauty industry.

Valérie splits her time between her London HQ and her central Paris office as well as managing a satellite network in Russia & China.

Rethinking Your Sustainability Strategy Excess packaging, an excessive carbon footprint and intensive farming practices have put the beauty industry in the running to be environmental enemy number one and in a bid not to fall victim to cancel culture brands and corporations have rushed to tick as many ‘sustainable’ boxes as possible. However, adding a range of biodegradable face wipes into an existing line merely adds to the problem and consumers are getting wise to the blatant greenwashing spreading through the industry. When it comes to sustainability, green claims are no longer enough and consumers are holding brands accountable at every level of the supply chain.

The newly released Mintel Sustainability Barometer revealed that globally consumers believe that corporations are to blame for the majority of sustainability issues (48% believe that corporations are responsible for increasing the amount of packaging that is recycled) but more than half (54%) believe that all is not lost and that there is still time to save the planet if consumer and company behaviours change. For brands to truly prove that they are committed to the green recovery transparency is key, and while it’s not feasible to become 100% sustainable overnight brands should “take consumers on a journey as you navigate your sustainability goals” says WGSN’s Annie Johnston.

This means implementing clear consumer-facing goals that you can be held accountable for, owning up to your mistakes and demonstrating the progress that you are making towards achieving your goals, because in an oversaturated market “the importance of transparency and honesty to gain consumer trust is a major focus” notes Johnston.

Consumers understand that it’s not viable to roll out a sustainable strategy for every area of a business all at once; instead brands should prioritise areas which are most relevant to them and seek to truly make long term demonstrable improvements here. One area which is gaining momentum as an enduring environmental solution is regenerative farming, a slow, simple method of provenance that if executed correctly and achieved via tangible stepping stones is an exciting strategy to begin to implement to become a real, hone part of the green recovery.

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The Slow Beauty Movement: Regenerative Farming The beauty industry is intrinsically linked to consumerism and specifically a more is more attitude but as looking after the planet becomes a given for brands, and buyers, a less is more approach is beginning to emerge for both parties.

Signalling a departure from the furiously fast paced retaildriven product cycles a new crop of brands are leaving the beauty rat race and instead working with nature, not against it, to deliver offerings which according to WGSN “disrupt the beauty industry without disrupting nature by championing the land around them”.

Beauty trends have a habit of filtering down from the food industry and recently we have seen a shift in consumer interest towards buying organic, indeed the Soil Association’s latest Organic Beauty and Wellbeing report revealed that over half of consumers are more likely to buy organic postpandemic. In response to the demand for products that don’t damage the environment a slew of brands are emerging that

Farming Process for Slow Beauty Movement

have returned to less intensive farming methods in a bid to reconnect with nature and put back what they take out.

Regenerative agriculture is a method by which brands are able to have total control over the provenance of their ingredients and can confidently assure consumers that the ingredients they are buying have been farmed in a truly sustainable way.

This school of thought is known colloquially as the ‘do no harm’ school and has been embraced by beauty brands including Modern Botany, Haeckels and Davines.

Regenerative Agriculture Method

“We are in an age in our global history when soil erosion is becoming a reality as the result of years of industrial farming; use of heavy chemicals, pesticides and herbicides and artificial fertilisers, that continues to destroy the soils’ biodiversity and health” says John Murray, Co-founder and Director of Sustainability and Philanthropic Projects at skincare brand Modern Botany. Healthy soil is at the heart of successful regenerative agriculture which in short is a farming methodology that aims to regenerate the soil, but why should consumers be interested in the soil that the ingredients they put on their face are grown in? Well, as Murray puts it “regenerative agriculture methods and practice provides a means to restore and conserve the soil to not only mean healthy and fertile soil but also proving that the food and plants produced in its growing are nutrient-dense and of a higher quality”. Put simply, healthy soil equals better ingredients and what consumer doesn’t want the highest quality ingredients out there? Cultiv îs another brand committed to creating a sustainable life cycle from soil to skin. By working with local French farmers who use only regenerative farming methods vegetable based skincare brand Cultiv not only create work within the local community but they also ensure that all the ingredients used are sustainably grown and harvested, have minimal environmental impact and reduced carbon footprint whilst still continuing to deliver innovative formulations.

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In terms of a sustainability strategy though, using farming methods which promote healthy soil is one of the most effective for actually making a tangible difference to the climate crisis. “Soil is a major carbon sink and natural climatechange solution, meaning it can safely store and reuse carbon which it draws down from the atmosphere via the process of photosynthesis as plants grow” notes Murray whose natural brand Modern Botany uses low-tech farming methods (for limited top soil disturbance) to grow and harvest 20% of its ingredients in West Cork, Ireland. Murray is passionate about using regenerative agriculture not only to create beautiful, natural skincare but also as a way to contribute to climate change; “we know that carbon can be stored for more than a century and therefore it is the most natural and effective means of creating climate change. In order to hold the carbon the soil needs to be healthy and free from all chemical amends that negatively affect soil microbiome and carbon reduction.

So its all a cycle really, but in essence healthy soil means healthy ecosystems, better quality food output and cleaner atmosphere. A Win Win!”.

Aside from proving a commitment to climate change there are several other major advantages to supporting smaller scale sourcing methods. Firstly, applying for certification is much easier since you have full traceability, and amidst a growing lack of confidence in brands’ sustainability claims, reputable certification is a must if you want to win a consumers trust.

The key players that consumers should look out for include COSMOS Natural stamp, Ecocert, 1% for the Planet or Bcorp certification but companies are also releasing their own certification guidelines against which they will hold themselves accountable. US giant Ulta has launched its Conscious Beauty initiative.

The retailer wants to provide customers with greater clean product choices and transparency, and will certify brands under five key pillars: clean ingredients, cruelty-free, vegan, sustainable packaging and positive impact. However, it’s important to note that that there is a lack of consumer trust in self-certified schemes and therefore obtaining thirdparty certification is still a necessity.

The Regenerative Organic Certification is a new offering setting industry standards around regenerative farming to stamp out greenwashing; the certification body has recently finished pilot schemes with Dr Bronner and Guayaki where it focused on meeting specific soil health, fair labour and animal welfare standards. As well as certification, bringing consumers on your sustainability journey is key for building long term relationships with eco-conscious customers. Modern Botany for example have committed to growing 50% of their ingredients by 2025 and ensure that the ingredients they don’t grow themselves are sourced from reputable suppliers who use regenerative and ethical means of farming.

Accountability is key when it comes to implementing selfimposed targets and consumers now expect brands to be able to prove their progress and governments across the globe are discussing the possibility of financial implications for brands that don’t fulfil their promises. As part of their sustainability initiative Ulta Beauty has formed the Conscious Beauty Advisory Council., a collection of industry experts including the COO of Credo Beauty and the CEO of Loop who are responsible for holding Ulta accountable to its goals as well as working collectively to solve industry-wide issues.

Of course, it is far easier for smaller, niche brands to adopt sustainable practices than it is for mass market brands delivering product on a major scale. Traditional farming methods are costly and labour intensive meaner smaller batches and longer lead times, it only takes one poor harvest for the production line to be significantly delayed. However, Murray believes that it’s possible for even the larger brands to switch to more sustainable farming methods. He recommends “starting by examining your supply chain and having a relationship with each of your suppliers and asking the question, does your supplier use regenerative or biodynamic methods in farming? It may be that over time you swap out suppliers with those that are more conscious of how they grow their ingredients. It may be that that question could be the spark that affects change in getting that farmer/supplier to change over to a more ethical and sustainable way of farming.”.

The clue is in the name when it comes to slow beauty movement, it’s a space that is currently dominated by small almost bespoke brands making a limited number of products. However, the benefit of returning to traditional farming methods in terms of climate change cannot be denied and if brands truly want to make an impact in the sustainable space and be trailblazers not tokenists then investigating the possibility of regenerative farming, even for just one ingredient within their portfolio, is a pretty solid place to start.

For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk

2021 October 20|21

PARIS

Carrousel du Louvre MakeUp in Paris is the exclusive BtoB event for brands with global skincare and make-up offers from ingredients, formulation, design, packaging, accessories to full service suppliers .

Get your free invitation here : www.makeup-in-paris.com @MakeUpinWorld

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COMPANY

SURGICTOUCH ANTI-AGE PRODUCTS WITH SCIENTIFICALLY-PROVEN RESULTS Founded by Dr Nicola Pittoni, a dermatologist and aesthetic surgeon, who wanted scientifically proven products to offer his patients to complete his medical and aesthetic procedures, and Elena Nassimbeni, General Manager and the business heart of the line, SurgicTouch is a unique, effective and transparent cosmeceutical line. The line has been developed with selected, scientifically proven ingredients, production methods and techniques inspired by medicine, guaranteeing effective and real results. The products contain skin-friendly actives, ingredients and effective preservatives. They are free from substances deemed dangerous for the skin by dermatology.

They have also been conceived to satisfy today’s women who want safe and clean products able to deliver real results and effectiveness, making SurgicTouch the perfect partner in a new and aware approach to skin care. SurgicTouch offers the correct beauty routine to prevent and slow down ageing mechanisms, from cleansing to application of powerful actives, with a home use beauty programme to keep visible the results obtained during professional treatments or aesthetic medicine and surgery procedures.

The company founded by dermatologist and aesthetic surgeon Dr Nicola Pittoni has developed a cosmeceutical range of products based on research, innovation and quality

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Total Remover removes make-up and cleanses skin, respecting the physiological skin conditions and having an effective action for the removal of all traces of impurities and dead cells. The formula has been developed for naturally hypersensitive skins or skins that have become hypersensitive due to impure or allergenic cosmetics. Pure Jal is a serum of pure hyaluronic acid with a peptide. Top quality hyaluronic acid in terms of purity, concentration and molecule size, is combined with arginine/lysine polypeptide which has a botox-like tensor effect and a powerful antioxidant action. Sustenium Age Treatment Cream has an intensive action thanks to innovative active ingredients, developed in collaboration with the University of Arkansas. SurgicTouch is also a Professional line for specific treatments and include AHAs cleansing, face resurfacing and exfoliation, antioxidant treatments, moisturizing, lifting peptide masks and firming, antiwater retention and cellulite treatments.

Visit www.surgictouch.com, discover SurgicTouch products and find the nearest SurgicTouch professional center.

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beauty bacteria Is the microbiome the next frontier in beauty?

VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director of the highly successful International Luxury Brand Consultancy. For over 25 years Valérie has been at the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. With her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and practical experience IL Brand Consultancy has become one of the most sought after management and distribution agencies specialising in global beauty. Recognised for the breadth of business sectors and extensive distribution channels it works with, ILBC’s international client portfolio spans both well-established names and newly-emerging brands in hair care, make-up, skincare, fragrance, devices and top-to-toe brands. Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies and business development is combined with an inspirational and forward-thinking approach.

Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach, elevate their brand presence, improve their business performance and achieve commercial success globally.

A further aspect of her business is her skill in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth which has led Valérie to regularly advise Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. This capability in combination with her advanced qualifications and proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director.

From her CEW mentoring, organisation of the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) and guest lecture programmes, Valérie is a passionate and dynamic advocate of the global beauty industry.

Valérie splits her time between her London HQ and her central Paris office as well as managing a satellite network in Russia & China.

Fermentation, yeast and bacteria, the beauty industry loves a buzzword. While these are among the least sexy going it’s the promise they hold of promoting good bacteria and increasing the diversity of our microbiome that is getting scientists hot under the collar. Once the preserve of good-for-your-gut food stuffs, probiotics and pre-biotics are now cropping up in every corner of our beauty cupboards thanks to their ability to stimulate a strong and healthy skin barrier (the bit our microbiome is responsible for), and consumers are taking note. In the past year Google Trend searches for ‘microbiome skincare’ have grown by over 5,000% worldwide and the increasing awareness of the importance of a balanced microbiome for healthy skin and hair indicates that beauty products that balance, support and strengthen our microflora with prebiotic, probiotic and postbiotic ingredients is an area of the beauty industry that is set to boom. Research into the microbiome arena is still only in its infant stages but the potential possibilities for discovery are endless and signal the start of a shake up for how we look after ourselves both inside and out. The brands that can innovate in this space to develop hyper- functional formulas that are backed by science to promote healthy skin and hair will come out on top. The time is now to back bacteria.

Image: Unsplash

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THE MICROBIOME TODAY The beauty industry has a habit of tapping into trends emerging within the nutritional space. Recently we’ve seen an explosion of plant-based skincare and adaptogenic fuelled products amongst others, so it’s no surprise that we’re now seeing a shift in focus from the gut microbiome to the skin microbiome says Sarah Nsiri, biotech skincare brand Orveda’s International Sales Director. The link between gut health and overall health - that a healthy gut equals a healthy mind and body - have long been touted by scientists, and more recently understood by consumers, and now a similar body of thought is being applied to the various microbiome’s found across our body, our face and even our hair and mouth. Just like “the gut where there is good and bad bacteria, the skin also has good and bad bacteria that needs looking after”, notes Nsiri.

While the gut and the skin have very different microbiome there is evidence that ingredients which make your gut microflora happy could also benefit the skin.

One of the key actives at Orveda is black tea kombucha, a well know gut health booster, but at Orveda the fermented drink is used because the bacteria activates the rosy tones in your skin stimulating that coveted healthy glow. It’s still too early for multiple solid claims around the gut-skin axis but research is pointing towards the fact that the two are more synergistic than previously believed.

Post-pandemic, consumers are taking better care of their health and wellbeing in a more holistic manner so beauty products that can work like this are top of the agenda.

Indeed, Gallinee’s best selling product in France is a supplement using the gut-skin axis by supporting the gut bacteria which has the additional benefit of soothing inflammation of the skin.

The microbiome is composed of millions of beneficial and not so beneficial bacteria and “when the microbiome is in balance, the barrier function is efficient, skin is healthy and well protected”

Image: Orveda Skincare, Award Winning pro bacteria skincare

Image: Be + Radiance Probiotic+Omega-3 multi purpose facial oil to be used as makeup primer or makeup remover

notes Abigail Williams, Caudalie National Training Manager.

However, when this balance is disturbed, which can happen due to anything from hormones and the way we wash our face to pollution or the weather, “the barrier function can be damaged and the skin’s immune system weakened” Williams adds, and this is when troublesome conditions such as acne, psoriasis or eczema can occur and our skin health, and appearance is compromised. Everyone’s microbiome is unique and while there are still few definitive answers when it comes to the microbiome some things we do now know to be true says Aimara Coupet, founder of probiotic makeup brand Be Radiance. For example, “c-acnes bacteria is a bacteria that we all have on our skin and when the level of c-acnes bacteria increases you get pimples but if your c-acnes bacteria is balanced you don’t have pimples” explains Coupet. And it doesn’t just stop at pimples, there is a new hypothesis that some researches are looking into that suggest that carefully balanced bacteria levels can affect our overall skin health too, “a good level of c-acnes bacteria can help you age better, if your c acne is lower it’s likely you’ll have more wrinkles” warns Coupet. For consumers a healthy microbiome is not only a way of overcoming long term problems but also provides a base to begin to address other potential irks. Ulrich Katusevanako, Head of New Product Development at Orveda, notes that “the skin’s overall appearance is a direct result of your skin barrier, so the stronger it is the healthier it will be and the more likely you will be able to target things like fine lines and other things you would like to treat”. Indeed, it is this idea that by balancing the microbiome we can then start to effectively tackle other areas of our health and wellbeing that is most exciting for the beauty industry, and the consumer.

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PRE, PRO AND POST-BIOTICS For a healthy microbiome diversity is key and this is where harnessing the power of good bacteria through the use of pre, pro and post-biotic’s comes in. Coupet offers a useful analysis for understanding why and how we should look after the microbiome, “your gut is like a tropical forest in a closed space so it’s very humid and very dense, there’s a lot of different things happening, whereas the skin is like an open forest where we cut trees and they have to regrow all the time”, the aggressors that interrupt our microbiome are the saws cutting the trees and we need to nurture the remaining bacteria (or tree roots) to ensure future protection from these disruptors. A good example of this is Be Radiance’s Multipurpose oil, good bacteria activates on contact with the water to colonise the microbiome, or help the ‘trees’ grow and regrow in the most beneficial way.

While biotic skincare is not exactly new, with brands such as Gallinee and Aurelia being early adopters, the research into it is ever evolving. “There is a massive amount of research at the moment on the effect of certain pre, pro or post-biotics on acne and eczema” says Dr Marie Drago Gallinée founder, who even revealed that some bacteria is being tested to prevent skin cancer. While consumer interest in the microbiome is certainly increasing, Mintel’s Global New Product Database revealed that mentions of ‘microbiome’ rose by 130% between 2018 and 2019, there is still a lack of clarity about the differences and respective benefits between biotic beauty. Indeed, in the last 12 months worldwide searches for ‘probiotics vs prebiotics’ have grown by 250%.

Image: Gallinée

Probiotics, living microorganisms or live bacteria that are key to keeping your body healthy, are the most widely known of the biotic family. This is largely due to the fact that they are found in things like yogurt and kimchi and therefore are a more familiar and tangible term. Whereas “pre- biotics are like food for probiotics, they help nourish the good bacteria on your skin” explains Nicolas Travis Allies of Skin founder and “postbiotics are produced during the fermentation process of probiotics.

Examples are enzymes, peptides, and acids like Lactic Acid”.

But which is best? It seems that the jury is still out as brands seek to develop formulas that are safe and well- preserved (no mean feat when using live bacteria) whilst effectively promoting a healthy microbiome for visible results.

After three years of research Orveda launched a range of prebiotic skincare, Ulrich Katusevanako Head of New Product Development explained that although “probiotics are great but you need the bacteria to grow and be stronger, that’s why we use the food”. As a company founded on biotechnology the reasoning here is a suitably scientific one. “The prebiotics that we use are a long chain of sugar that only the good bacteria can eat, this means that the bad bacteria will die as they are unable to eat them”, says Katusevanako. Orveda’s RespureTM Breathable Mist uses this technology, alongside targeted actives, to minimise sebum production. The prebiotics that are used rebalance the skin microbiota so that the sebum producing bacteria are able to survive or, indeed, thrive.

Probiotics have great soothing effects on the skin, amongst other benefits, but one of the challenges of using live bacteria in beauty products is safety and shelf life. To enable consumers to benefit from probiotics without having to worry about storage or freshness innovation is key. One brand making great strides in this direction is Be Radiance. The makeup brand proves that it’s not just skincare playing in the microbiome space as their pioneering range of powders and blushes use active probiotics that are protected in a first of its kind encapsulation that keeps the bacteria alive without going off. Once the powder is applied to the skin the sleeping bacteria is activated and left to work it’s magic, safely. For Dr Marie Drago the founder of Gallinée, the original microbiome champion, combining all three p-biotics has a synergistic effect that makes the results totally fascinating, “probiotics for their soothing effects, pre-

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biotics to feed your own microbiome and post-biotics to create the perfect environment for a healthy microbiome”.

Nicolas Travis, Allies of Skin founder also supports using the trifecta noting that they “all work synergistically to help your skin function and look better”.

BEYOND SKINCARE It’s not just skincare that is tapping into the microbiome market; makeup, haircare and body care are also tapping into the idea that when it comes to beauty, bacteria is big business.

The rise of mask wearing and more time spent indoors have all impacted consumers and left them seeking functional products with ingredients that support their health and wellbeing.

“Microbiome is changing the face of makeup” notes Choupet, who’s pioneering makeup brand is one of the first cosmetics brands to utilise the skin health benefits of probiotics.

Although Choupet admits that “makeup is behind in terms of innovation to be healthy” because consumers still think that skincare is key to a healthy complexion but forget that foundation sits directly on your skin, she is passionate about creating makeup that gives you better skin. Very few brands have launched new cosmetic products in this space but consumer interest in probiotic makeup is rising with recent data from Lumina intelligence finding that online engagement with probiotic cosmetics has risen 450% over the past two years. There is a huge opportunity for microbiome makeup to be the next beauty buzzword.

Image: Unsplash

Image: Good Skin Club

As consumers seek specific products to support the health of every inch of the body, formulas that help to improve health holistically will gain popularity. Google trend searches for ‘probiotic deodorant’ rose by 400% in the last 12 months, and Caudalie have responded to growing demand with a that supports the underarm microflora via prebiotic grape water. Interest in scalp health is also on the rise with Mintel finding that 51% of European consumers are interested in scalp treatments proving that there is an opportunity for brands to invest in targeted treatments that strengthen the scalp to promote healthy hair. Another area that is being put under the microbiome microscope is the oral microbiome, as research begins to show that perhaps everything we thought about oral health hasn’t been entirely correct, Drago told us. “Up until now the solution had always been to kill all the bacteria in your mouth twice a day and hope they don’t come back” says Drago, whose brand Gallinée believes that we need to have a new approach to oral care because “99% of your mouth bacteria are good, and can help you fight the bad 1%”. The new Gallinée toothpaste uses prebitoics to feed and strengthen the good bacteria. A new toothpaste isn’t just the solution for pearly whites though; research is being done into the impact of your mouth microbiome on the rest of your body with suggestions being made that diseases like Parkinson’s could start in the mouth.

The microbiome beauty boom is only just beginning and while huge breakthroughs have been made Choupet admits that “today we have more questions than answers”. That’s not a bad thing for brands though, serious research and smart innovation will give them the opportunity to became early adopters in the bacteria boom. Understanding the microbiome will be a game changer in how we approach skin, hair, body and oral care, perhaps forever.

45 For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk

EVENTS

BEAUTYISTANBUL 246 BUYERS FROM WEST AFRICA CONNECTED WITH BEAUTYISTANBUL EXHIBITORS BEAUTYISTANBUL’s 13th and the last Online Regional Meeting hosted 246 buyers from 9 countries in West Africa region.

Since September 2020, Online Meetings have connected 1.856 buyers from 104 countries and 9 regions with our exhibitors for free West Africa Online Meeting was held on July 8th, presenting buyers from Benin, Burkina Faso, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Ivory Coast, Liberia, Mali and Senegal.

95 suppliers joined the meeting from 17 countries including Turkey, Italy, UK, Netherlands, Germany, USA, Canada, Brazil, Russia, Croatia, Japan, Malaysia, Indonesia, India, Pakistan, Lebanon and Egypt. The meeting started with welcoming remarks of Mr. Murat Buğra Karamış, Commercial Counsellor of Republic of Turkey in Accra-Ghana, Mr. Özgür İlhan Yalnız, Commercial Counsellor of Republic of Turkey in Dakar-Senegal, Mrs. Yeşim Piri, Commercial Counsellor of Republic of Turkey in Bamako-Mali, Mrs. Liliane Fernandeze Bassitche, Export Promotion and Development Officer for APEX Ivory Coast, Mr. James M. Strother, President of Liberian Business Association, Mr. Mamadou Dieng, Director Commercial of UNACOIS Senegal and Mrs. Patricia Badolo, Deputy Director of Burkina Faso Chamber of Commerce and Industry. The meeting continued with the introductory speeches of selective buyers from each country and with the presentations of BEAUTYISTANBUL exhibitors who are manufacturers and suppliers of cosmetics, beauty and home care products. Important buyers who were present at the meeting included

JFF BEAUTY from Benin, WILL MARKET from Burkina Faso, GLOBAL COSMETICS from Gambia, ALL NEEDS SUPERMARKETS and INTERBRANDS from Ghana, ACTOUM from Guinea, ARC EN CIEL DISTRIBUTION and CHIMAFRIQUE from Ivory Coast, VILLE GROUP OF COMPANIES from Liberia, KOROMY DISTRIBUTION from Mali, OMNIA and SMS GROUPE from Senegal.

BEAUTYISTANBUL’s experienced visitor promotion team fluent in 10 languages shows its difference by bringing together some of the biggest companies in the region to attend the online meetings. Become an exhibitor at BEAUTYISTANBUL now and benefit from all value-added business opportunities!

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Dunlop - Engelsrufer Jette - Kaviar Gauche Leonardo Essenza Lufthansa Scotch & Soda Acqua di Portofino Blue Pollack Esse - Evody - Fabi Hugh Parsons - Panama Pineider - Riva

3 Senses GmbH Senefelder Strasse 1/T4 D-63110 Rodgau www.3senses.eu tran@3senses.eu Profumitalia s.r.l.

Via A. Costa, 2 I-20131 Milano tel. +39/02-45375660 info@profumitalia.net www.profumitalia.it Acampora Profumi Bruno Acampora Profumi B.A.P. s.r.l.

Via G. Filangieri, 72 I-80121 Napoli tel. +39/081.401701 www.brunoacampora.com Air-Val Air-Val Int. s.a.

Beverly Hills Fragrances C/Miguel Servet, 27 E-08850 Gava (Barcelona) tel. +34-93/6355335 fax +34-93/6629806 Alyson Oldoini Parfums Luciano Oldoini s.r.l.

V.le Geno 10 - I-22100 Como Show-room: Via Montenapoleone, 21 I-20122 Milano www.alysonoldoiniparfums.com Ancorotti Cosmetics Ancorotti Cosmetics s.r.l.

Via del Commercio, 1 I-26013 Crema (CR) tel. +39/0373-876811.21 fax +39/0373-876811 Antiqua Firenze Enzo Galardi IO•KO Via Ilio Barontini 22 I-50018 Scandicci (FI) elisa.atelierbois.gmail.com www.bois1920.it Arômélia Arômélia 21, Boulevard Haussmann F-75009 Paris tel. +33 (0) 156036603 contact.aromelia@orange.fr Ars Mirabile - CBN S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. I-Care - Longevity Via della Liberazione, 56 M Masterpiece I-20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) tel. +39-02/98280925 fax +39-02/98280975 Fragrance division: The First s.p.a.

Arrogance - GMV Via Fieno, 8 Valentina by Guido Crepax I-20123 Milano Cosmetic division: tel. +39-02/661381 Pikenz fax +39-02/66138519 Astra Giufra S.r.l.

Via Veneto, 152 I-06059 Todi (PG) tel. +39-075.8987455 fax +39-075.8987691 Art Cosmetics Art Cosmetics s.r.l.

I-24050 Mozzanica (BG) Via E. Mattei, 17/c tel. +39/0363-032011 www.artcosmetics.it - info@artcosmetics.it Artdeco Artdeco Cosmetic Group Gaussstrasse 13 D-85757 Karlsfeld tel. +49/8131-390100 fax +49/8131 390129 Aubade - Montana Parfums Montana - Empire of Scents 4, Place Wagram F-75017 Paris tel +33-1/42650072 fax +33-1/42650074 Alain Delon Art & Fragrance SA Jaguar - Lalique Bühlstrasse 1 Nikki Beach CH-8125 Zollikerberg - Switzerland Parfums Grès Direct +41-43/4994532 Ultrasun Phone +41-43/4994500 fax +41-43/4994502 www.art-fragrance.com Alessandro Dell’Acqua Euroitalia s.r.l.

Dsquared2 - Missoni Via G. Galilei, 1 Moschino - John Richmond I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) Joseph Abboud tel. +39-02/95916.1 Naj Oleari - Versace fax +39-02/95916500 Amarena Eurostyle s.p.a.

Bella Oggi I-80035 Nola - Interporto di Nola, Lotto D Blocco 4, Mod. 407/408 tel. +39-081/5108427 fax +39-081/3158162 www.amarenamakeup.com info@amarenamakeup.com Aquolina - Baldinini Selectiva s.p.a.

Paglieri 1876 S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 Pink Sugar I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 fax +39-0131/6186663 Armand Basi - Angel Schlesser IDESA-Angelini Group Custo - Joaquín Cortés Via Augusta, 59-9 Mandarina Duck - Yekipé E-08006 Barcelona tel. +34-93/2920891 fax +34-93/2176881 Axis - Hoops - Elanzia INCC Group Esprit de Versailles 85, avenue de Saint Cloud Mercedes-Benz F-78000 Versailles Monaco - Yujin tel. +33/1-39670671 fax + 33/1-39670672 www.inccgroup-parfums-com Balmain Parfums - Celine Interparfums Lanvin - Paul Smith - Roxi 4 Rond Point del Champs Elysées Van Cleef & Arpels F-75008 Paris Jimmy Choo - Mont Blanc tel. +33/1-53770000 fax +33/1-53763626

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Exclusive division: Braccialini - Byblos - Gandini Genny - Luciano Soprani Transvital Prestige division: Australian - Bionsen La Gazzetta dello Sport Lola - Looney Tunes Renato Balestra - Rockford Franck Olivier

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B.Kolormakeup & Skincare s.p.a.

Via Canonica, 79/A - Loc. Geromina I-24047 Treviglio (BG) tel. +39/0363-590011 fax +39/0363-590212 info@bkolormakeup.com www.bkolormakeup-skincare.com CALE’ s.r.l.

Via S. Maria Podone, 5 I-20123 Milano tel. +39/02-76002494 fax +39/02-76009407 ww.cale.it - s.levi@cale.it Cofinluxe 6, Rue Anatole de la Forge F-75017 Paris tel. +33-1/55377172 - fax +33-1/46229827 Collistar s.p.a.

Via Pirelli, 19 - I-20124 Milano tel. +39-02/677503 - fax +39-02/6775454 Confalonieri Matite s.r.l.

I-23020 Area Industriale - Gordona (SO) tel. +39/0343-42011 fax +39/0343 42000 www.confaloniericosmetica.com confaloniericosmetica.com Beauty San s.p.a.

Via Rimini, 37 - I-59100 Prato tel. +39-0574/43891 - fax +39-0574/438940 www.beautysan.net Farmeco Head Office: 11 Ag. Glykerios Str. GR-11147 Athens, Greece tel. +30-20/2131701 - fax +30-20/2136036 Branch Office: Strada 6 Palazzo P1 Milano Fiori - I-20089 Rozzano (MI) tel. +39-02/89200150/167 fax +39-02/89200371 Cosmetica s.r.l.

Via S. Carlo 28 I-40023 Castel Guelfo (BO) tel. +39-0542/670911 - fax +39-0542/670911 Gold I-20131 Milano - Via Filippo Lippi 10 tel. +39/02_795862 www.goldmilano.it - info@goldmilano.it Enrico Gi Fragrances Via della Tecnica, 32 I-37066 Sommacampagna (VR) tel. +39/045-8960480 fax +39/045-8960482 www.enricogifragrances.com info@enricogifragrances.com Eurocosmesi Via Gobetti, 4 I-40050 Funo di Argelato (BO) tel. +39-051/6649238 fax +39-051/6649248

La Closerie des Parfums

Layla

L’Erbolario

Locherber

Lubin

Lumson Belotti

M:PLUS Cosmetics

The Merchant of Venice Furla - Police - Replay - Zippo Manila Grace - Blauer USA Pino Silvestre - Monotheme I Profumi di d’Annunzio MI-RE

Molinard

Nesti Dante

Sodip 21, Boulevard Montmartre F-75002 Paris - France tel. +33-1/40262020 - fax +33-1/42210888 Giorgio Jäneke s.r.l.

I-20050 Veduggio (MI) tel. +39-0362/911010 a.r. fax +39-0362/911100 Grioni-Myc Group Via Cavour, 2 c/o COMONEXT Innovation Hub www.grionipackaging.com HSA GROUP S.p.A. Via Ugo Foscolo, 27 I-21050 Bisuschio (VA) tel. +39/0332-476554 fax +39/03332-850307 hsa@hsacosmetics.com www.hsacosmetics.com Diamond International s.r.l.

Via Foce Cesano,4/9 I-60019 Senigalla (AN) tel. +39/071-6610226 fax +39/071-6611104 info@diamondint.it www.difragrances.com Inika Organic 813 Springvale Road, - Mulgrave VIC - Australia 3170 tel. + 61 3 8544 80000 hello@inika.com.au HI Intertrade Europe Via Portogallo,11/125 I-35127 Padova tel. +39-049/7625241 fax +39-049/762 5177 VAG & Distribution 6, rue Pasquier F-75008 Paris tel. +33-1/58183970 - fax +33-1/40060210 Perfumes y Diseño España, S.L. Isla del Hierro, 5 E-28709 San Sebastian de los Reyes (Madrid) tel. +34-91/6588843 - fax +34-91/6588849 Milano Cosmetics s.r.l.

Via Depretis, 6/9 I-24122 Bergamo tel. +39-035/3693611 fax +39-035/3693612

Nouba

Paglieri

Parfums Pergolèse Paris

Payot

Pupa Miss Milkie

Rancé

Sandalia

Salvatore Ferragamo Ungaro

Teatro Fragranze Uniche

Groupe Panther – La Closerie des Parfums ZI Gradignan Bersol 11 Avenue de la Madeleine F-33173 Gradignan cedex (France) tel +33/05.56.75.79.04 fax +33/05.56.75.53.36 valerie.madrid@lacloseriedesparfums.com www.lacloseriedesparfums.com Layla Cosmetics s.r.l.

Via dei Pestagalli, 21 I-20138 Milano tel. +39-02/5062052 fax +39-02/5061160 L’Erbolario s.p.a.

V.le Milano, 74 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39/0371-4911 fax +39/0371-491411 www.erbolario.com Cosval s.p.a.

V.le delle Industrie 10/5 I-20020 Arese (MI) tel. +39/02 935 80 479 fax +39/02 935 81 022 www.cosvality.com Lubin 3, rue du Roule F-75001 Paris tel: +33-1/40677009 fax +33-1/45021316 Lumson S.p.A. Via Tesino, 62-64 I-26010 Capergnanica (CR) tel. +39/0373-2331 fax +39-0373-233355 www.lumson.com lumson@lumson.com M:PLUS Cosmetics Via Unità d’Italia, 9/11 I-20065 Inzago (MI) www.mascaraplus.com info@mascaraplus.com Mavive S.p.A. Via Altinia, 298/B I-30173 Venezia (Dese) tel. +39-041/5417771 fax +39-041/5417798 MI-in Paris 102, rue des Poissonniers F-75018 Paris tel. +33/6-65299995 www.mirecosmetics.com etremosa@mi-in.kr Parfums Molinard 60, boulevard Victor Hugo F-06130 Grasse tel. +334-92423322 fax +334-89123068 export@molinard.com www.molinard.com Nesti Dante s.r.l.

Via della Molina, 39 I-50010 S.Donnino (FI) tel. +39-055/8739401/2 fax 39-055/8739768 Nouba s.r.l.

Via Bastia 5 - I-20139 Milano tel. +39/02-35954290 www.nouba.it - info@nouba.it Paglieri s.p.a.

S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 fax +39-0131/6186663 Parfums Pergolèse Paris 59, Rue De Miromesnil F-75008 Paris Tel. +33-(0)1/53581402 or 1435 www.parfums-pergolese-paris.com Laboratoires Dr. N G Payot 10, boulevard du Parc F-92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine tel. +331/55625454 contact@payot.fr www.payot.com Micy’s Company s.p.a.

Via De Gasperi, 22 I-23880 Casatenovo (LC) tel. +39-039/92341 fax +39-039/89205859 Rancé & C. s.r.l.

Via Lombardini, 10 I-20143 Milano tel. +39-02/58100855 fax +39-02/89401058 Officina Profumeria Sarda s.r.l.

I-07041 Alghero (SS) tel. + 39/340 3872516 www.acquadisardegna.it info@officinaprofumeriasarda Salvatore Ferragamo Italia s.p.a.

Via dei Tornabuoni, 2 I-20123 Firenze tel. +39-055/33601 fax +39-055/3360734 Teatro Fragranze Uniche s.r.l.

Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) tel. +39/055.4212240 www.teatrofragranzeuniche.it info@teatrofragranzeuniche.it

2nd International Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair Home Care, Private Label, Packaging, Ingredients

October 13 - 14 - 15, 2021 ICC - Istanbul Congress Center - Taksim, Istanbul - Turkey

www.beauty-istanbul.com Tel: +90 212 2229060

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+90 533 4843030

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info@beauty-istanbul.com

Organizer