EM - Profumeria Selettiva 8-21 by mte edizioni

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THE INTERNET GUIDE TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WORLDWIDE

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N. 8/2021 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via R. Gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a. Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena - € 7 In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CPO MODENA per la restituzione previo pagamento resi.

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On the cover: Moschino Toy2 Bubble Gum by Euroitalia

N. 8 ANNO XLI october - November 2021 BIMONTHLY ottobre - novembre 2021 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena Printing: Faenza Group SpA Art Director Teresa Tibaldi Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Francesca Bonelli Roberto Cimarosa - Valerie Kaminov Rebecca Lazzari - Joan Rundo Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni

COMPANY

Advertisers’ list

10 Baralan 24 Yuzen 30/31 Astra 38/39 Nouba 44/45 Fila 50 Bellagio 54/55 Naturaverde BIO 58/59 Teaology 63 Paglieri 1876

28-29 Astra 4 Baralan 94 Beautyspace 42 Beautyworld Middle-East 51 Bellagio 73 Calé 36 Clean & Beauty 66 Cosmobeauté Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 32 75 Croisette 55 72 Esxence 43 Fila 7 Furla 79-81 Gritti Venetia 83 Hugh Parsons 96-III HSA 9 Iceberg 5 John Richmond 49 Layla Cosmetics 87 Mane 33 Mediterranea Cosmetics Cover-II-I-IV Moschino 53 Naturaverde BIO 37 Nouba 3 Payot 57 Teaology 11 Transvital 71 Xerjoff 25 Yuzen

EVENTS 12-13 52 93

TFWA Cannes OnBeauty by Cosmoprof Diego dalla Palma Milano

INTERVIEW 14/17 26/27 46/48 60/61

Payot: M.L.S. Braun, R. Chastenet de Géry, C. Lamoureux Pony Forma Italiana: C. Gabbai Layla Cosmetics: B. Spagnolo Italart: A. Tanzi

LAUNCH 6 Decorté 8 Iceberg 18/23 Naj•Oleari Beauty 34/35 Mediterranea Cosmetics 40/41 Mavive 56 ARTDECO 62 Pink Sugar 64 Lalique 65 Collistar

report 90/92 China leading travel retail boom – Valérie Kaminov

ARTISTIC PERFUMERY 74 Locherber Skincare 80 Lendava 82 Teatro Fragranze 86 Locherber 88/89 Pitti Fragranze

INTERVIEW 68/70 76/78 84/85

Xerjoff: S. Momo Gritti Venetia: L. Gritti Profumart: A. Angelino, C. Cerizza

HERBIER THE CERTIFIED ORGANIC BENEFICIAL FACE BEAUTY OIL

TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION

*Without ingredients of animal origin

MEET US AT BEACH VILLAGE 1 - BOOTH 14

M ARIA JARS Newly designed, sophisticated glass line developed for ease of use with skincare products, available up to 100 ml.

www.baralan.com

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DECORTE’ LIFT DIMENSION

of the dermis is enhanced and the changes extend to the upper part of the dermis, the elastin and collagen fibres are reconstructed and the face reshaped. The Lift Dimension line also includes Lift Dimension Purifying Foam Cleanser that removes roughness, dullness and restores skin to a clear and translucent finish using an intense foam.

The next generation in reshaping ageing skin

Slackening of the contours of the face, loos of firmness of cheeks and chin and the widening of features and facial lines are the result of the collapse of the dermis that supports firmness and elasticity with the passing of the years. Kosé, the parent company of Decorté, has extensively researched how to prevent this, increase the amounts of collagen fibres and elastin fibres to improve the quality of the skin and reconstitute the former structure. The solution is the Decorté Lift Dimension Range, which targets collagen and elastin fibres and fibroblasts that form the 3D structure of the dermis and rebuilds and protects the natural facial contours from within. The new Decorté Lift Dimension Serum is the first formulation to include a hero ingredient which solves the key problem, degradation of elastin and collagen fibres, called “Glucosyl Naringin”. Decorté is the first to incorporate Naringin (contained in citrus peel with a strong antioxidant effect) in skincare by modifying it through a process known as glycosylation. This ingredient promotes the production of adhesion factors such as takin and vinculin, which are important for the effective functioning of cells such as the production of collagen. After four weeks of using Lift Dimension Serum, the results are dramatic: the density of the 3D structure

Lift Dimension Smoothing Cleansing Oil visibly removes oxidized sebum, make-up and thoroughly eliminates lipid peroxides that cause ageing indications such as dullness, yellowing and loss of firmness. The silky texture adapts to the skin delivering highly translucent and visibly smooth results. The third cleansing product is Lift Dimension Refining Cleansing Cream, which uses emollient ingredients whilst removing make-up and unwanted skin cells. Lift Dimension Plump + Firm Emulsion is for the softening step in the beauty routine and is a milky firming emulsion that quickly dissolves into the skin, giving extra vitality and softness. To balance the skin, Lift Dimension Replenish * Firm Lotion uses a unique delivery capsule that contains a large amount of emollient ingredients to enhance the skin’s luminosity, leaving a 3D finish and increased moisture with added suppleness. Lift Dimension Clarifying Toning Lotion spreads a refreshing sensation of moisture to protect the skin from external stress and dryness. Lift Dimension Enhanced Rejuvenating Cream, the moisturizing and final step in the Decorté Lift Dimension range. A rejuvenating cream, it has an extra rich touch that wraps the entire skin from start to finish to form a vibrant and youthful glow. Strengthening the collagen fibres of the dermis, it prepares the skin from the core to enhance elasticity.

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A sports-inspired interpretation of the original ICEBERG fragrance

ICEBERG

TWICE NERO AND TWICE ROSA, THE SPORTSCENTS

Presented for the first time in 1995, the ICEBERG Twice fragrance line became an instant classic. To celebrate the 25 years of ICEBERG Twice, the brand now presents two new fragrances inspired by the original, Twice NERO for him and Twice ROSA for her. The fragrances, both the original and the new interpretations, are the creation of Ilias Ermenidis, Master perfumer with Firmenich. A native of Greece, Ilias discovered perfumery in his father’s factory of fragrances and aromas in Istanbul. He studied perfumery in Paris and was the first apprentice perfumer from the ISIP to be employed by Firmenich. He lived in Paris and Geneva for ten years then moved to New York, where he has lived for 25 years. ICEBERG Twice was one of his first creations and “will always have a place in [his] heart.” ICEBERG Twice NERO is provocative and powerful, the manifesto

of an audacious and thrilling life. Fruity and mint accents meet the liveliness of woods and musk for a truly reinvigorating and lasting experience. The key notes include mandarin, mint, elemis, cedarwood, tonka bean and oak moss. The citrus, mint and warm base notes clearly recall the original ICEBERG Twice. The women’s fragrance, ICEBERG Twice ROSA, starts off as sparkling and full of energy, then becomes refined and enthralling, a springboard for an active and balanced life. Fresh and fruity accents encounter the liveliness of wood for a memorable and lasting experience. The key notes include redcurrant, pink grapefruit, jasmine petals, carrot seeds, ambretta seeds and cedarwood. The fragrances fully embody the philosophy of the Italian sports luxury of ICEBERG, according to James Long, Creative Director, ICEBERG.

COMPANY

Baralan Introduces DEA, its Airless Packaging Solution in Glass Baralan, a consolidated player in primary packaging for the cosmetics and beauty industries, has introduced DEA – which stands for Developing the Evolution of Airless – a new series of products composed of glass airless containers designed for several applications. Unlike other airless systems, DEA has no internal plastic container, making it the first airless system in which the filled product is directly in contact with its glass container.

The new DEA series is the first airless system where the product is directly in contact with the glass As a more sustainable solution, the DEA series represents a new philosophy of primary packaging in glass, using fewer components and significantly reducing the amount of overall materials, resulting in a lighter and more functional packaging that still offers impact to brands with a new level of user experience. In addition, its airless nature helps better preserve the integrity of the product ingredients, is suitable for different usages and is extremely versatile in application.

The DEA series is available in two versions: classic and premium, both of which allow for the possibility of single-use or refillable solutions of the glass container. The ability to also quickly and practically separate components provides new opportunities to improve product lifecycle – embracing sustainability and eco-consciousness in packaging. DEA is available in three nominal capacities: 15ml, 30ml and 50ml. Its standard GPI 18/400 neck finish, combined with the airless system, is compatible with a vast range of pumps. This allows for increased modularity for different sets, as well as high levels of product personalization. In each version, the transparent glass allows for the filled product’s color to remain visible for an authentic appeal. Another feature of this new solution is the ability to eliminate lubricant use, which is due to the unprecedented smoothness of the piston inside the glass container. Thanks to Baralan’s dedicated teams of quality and research professionals, it has been possible to achieve such an innovation. The exploration of this new solution opens the path to new product line opportunities that provide an evolution of primary packaging in glass – and airless packaging in general – to drive and shape the future of beauty.

EVENTS

TFWA CANNES 2021 HEALTH-AWARE AND BUSINESS-FOCUSED

After a break of two years, delegates will again be able to meet in a health-aware, business-focused environment The TFWA World Exhibition & Conference, to be held in Cannes from Monday 25 to Thursday 28 October, ensures that delegates are in a safe environment from the health point of view and a profitable one from the business point of view. The Conference, starting at 9.00 a.m. on Monday 25 October, features leading figures from the duty free and travel retail world and the wider geopolitical world providing valuable insight as the industry continues its recovery.

After an introduction by TFWA President Jaya Singh, the first speaker will be jane Sun, CEO of Trip.com who will share her thoughts on the return of travel in China and the future expectations of Chinese travellers. Also speaking will be DFS Group CEO Benjamin Vuchot on how travel retail can reinvent itself to meet the changing needs of travelling consumers, while IATA Vice President Rafael Schvartzman will offer his perspective on the future prospects for air travel. Imagen Insights co-founder Jay Richards will conclude the conference exploring how the duty free and travel retail industry can remain relevant to the all-important Gen Z shopper. The conference will be live-streamed on the TFWA 365 digital platform. Although the traditional social gathering on Sunday evening will not take place, TFWA still offers many opportunities for delegates to network and reconnect. Running from Monday to Wednesday from 6.30 to 9.00 p.m. the TFWA Lounge will provide delegates with the ideal spot to relax, network and reflect on the events of the day. TFWA’s ONE2ONE service will be available for delegates to book face-to-face meetings on-site, or digital meetings via TFWA 365.

EVENTS

Robust health and safety measures will be in place, with attendees required to show proof of double vaccination or provide a recent negative Covid test result, Testing facilities will be available at the Palais des Festivals if required. Face masks will also be compulsory for all attendees on the show days and hand sanitizers will be located throughout the Palais. A 24 hour medical concierge will be available, with specialist medical teams available to support any visitors feeling unwell. More than 270 companies

will be exhibiting with over 80 companies from the perfume and cosmetics industry are awaited as exhibitors in Cannes, including regulars such as AirVal International, EuroItalia, Ajmal, Clarins, Collistar, Etat Libre d’Orange and Payot, and others making their debut at Cannes, like, Caudalie, La Perla Beauty, Parfums Dusita and Fekkai.

e x hibition SUN 24 OCT.

MON 25 OCT.

TUE 26 OCT.

09:00 - 18:00 Registration

08:30 - 18:30 Registration 09:00 - 11:45 Conference

Level -1, Palais des Festivals

Grand Auditorium, Palais des Festivals

12:00 - 18:30 Exhibition 18:30 - 21:00 TFWA Lounge Carlton Beach

P rogramme WED 27 OCT.

thu 28 OCT.

08:30 - 18:30 Registration

08:30 - 17:00 Registration

08:00 - 18:30 Exhibition

08:30 - 18:30 Exhibition & ONE2ONE meetings

08:30 - 17:00 Exhibition & ONE2ONE meetings

Level -1, Palais des Festivals

18:30 - 21:00 TFWA Lounge Carlton Beach

Level -1, Palais des Festivals

18:30 - 21:00 TFWA Lounge Carlton Beach

Level -1, Palais des Festivals

INTERVIEW

PAYOT

BEAUTY IN MOTION IN CANNES

Export Magazine talked to Marie-Laure Simonin Braun, CEO Rodrigue Chastenet de Géry, Export Director Chloé Lamoureux Pony, Business & Trade Solutions Director EXPORT MAGAZINE: PAYOT is back in Cannes, for the Tax Free event. How do you feel, knowing that you’ll finally be meeting in person your clients and business people related to the beauty industry? Rodrigue Chastenet de Géry: We are very excited! We are resuming travel within Europe and can feel the excitement of meeting physically our clients on their markets and at the Tax Free Exhibition. This event is an incredible moment of discoveries, contacts, industrial moves & trends. Cannes offers a perfect setting for sharing. We anticipate less traffic, yet we are confident in the depth and quality of the exchanges and believe the energy on the booth will be intense (Beach Village 1 / Booth 14)! We are coming in full force, with the entire Export team as we want this 2021 Edition to mark a new chapter of total reconnection with the industry. A great number of partners are coming to Cannes, and it will be an amazing opportunity to end our year, plan the next one and celebrate with them our great achievements in a friendly environment!

EM: In the almost two years when it was almost impossible to travel, what has your strategy been to stay in touch with the world around you? MARIE-LAURE SIMONIN BRAUN: PAYOT is present in more than 70 countries, hence diluting the timing risk of pandemic impact. One of our strengths is the stability of the export team allowing ongoing communication. Thanks to this pre-existing specific connection and a mutual desire to remain in touch despite the situation, we have maintained local business activity and overpassed the travel barriers’. In Europe and in the rest of the world, the situation is still delicate, and some countries faced or are still facing lockdowns. We have been able to stay connected with our points of sales thanks to our local sales force and their privileged relationships with their clients and through our digital BtoB and BtoC ecosystems. RCDG: We kept investing and recruiting, adding to our existing knowledge additional sources of market insights. We were effectively able in this period to consolidate our presence in Latin America and liaise with new partners in Scandinavia and Eastern Europe. We also attended webinars and participated in electronic prospective missions in Southeastern Asia, keeping us in close contact with the evolutions in the region. CHLOé LAMOUREUX PONY: Our communication strategy embraced super-fast and agile new technology like immersive webinars, live educational programs on top of daily communication tools. We also benefit from a BtoB digital platform “OneSource” a unique differentiating tool for a company of our size. Launched a year ago, it allows our BtoB community to post and share remarkable local activities and best practices.

An ongoing success spread over all five continents

INTERVIEW

EM: Have you had the opportunity to maintain R & D process, and to offer the market new lines on time? MLSB: Keeping the link with our industry and suppliers as well as an operating supply chain ongoing throughout 2020 was key. Unlike some competitors, we faced no “stop & go” and maintained our planning to ensure 2020 and 2021 budgets, pursuing innovation for the future years. Our integrated laboratory is at the heart of our HQ facilities. Thanks to a strict sanitary policy and the commitments of our team, we have been able to maintain an intense rhythm of product development and go to market. Our biggest success was to secure the worldwide launch of our “clean beauty” line HERBIER, with 5 SKUs certified COSMOS ORGANIC by Ecocert.

EM: In your opinion, have you noticed a change in consumers’ buying attitudes? Which are the products, In the existing ranges that were most successful during the pandemic? CLP: During the hardest time of the pandemic, skincare has been more resilient compared to other beauty categories. An opportunity for PAYOT, our core business being face and body care. We have seen consumers devoting more time to learn and understand what a skincare product is really made of. Somehow each purchase is now more cautious, either from a safety or pricing standpoint. No doubt, they also pay more attention to the commitments a brand is taking regarding sustainability, and they are clever to identify greenwashing. Our omnichannel strategy embraced years ago enabled us to accelerate eBusiness and company digitalization before the pandemic. Being a trustworthy brand, in motion with the trends are strong

assets that resonate with consumers’ new attitudes. Due to mask wearing, a lot of men and women are confronted with “maskne” and pimples. We’ve seen our mythical line PATE GRISE and cosmeceutical products like PATE GRISE L’ORIGINALE or EAU PURIFIANTE reaching sell-out records! 2 eye contour products: BLUE TECHNI LISS REGARD and ROSELIFT COLLAGENE REGARD benefited from the same trend. Eyes remaining highly visible and over exposed to all types of screens, the demand for this product category was higher than usual. Products related to cocooning or well-being were also worshiped. Like our new bodycare CRÈME NOURRISSANTE or our handcare SUPREME JEUNESSE LES MAINS. I believe the innovative water-free and solid galenic of HERBIER BAUME DE MASSAGE will follow the same successful path. EM: How important is communication nowadays? Which are the main channels of communication chosen by PAYOT? MLSB : During the pandemic we decided to maintain a high level of visibility. By reinforcing digital communication and testing new proximity set ups. We orchestrated a 360° communication plan including a wild display campaign in big cities for the launch of MY PAYOT NEW GLOW to surprise and stay closer to people in their vicinities and provoke a fresh approach of communication. We are rebalancing the game between online media that are now unavoidable and traditional/print media. Our target audience is renewing slowly with paper, and we believe our brand should remain visible through this communication channel as well. It is also an ethical question to remain close and faithful to our media partners and beloved editors. Each communication channel participates somehow in this virtuous omnichannel circle.

INTERVIEW

EM: Which tools do you apply to give your clients a full educational program? MLSB: With an established distribution in beauty institutes and Spa, education is the key stone of our BtoB strategic mix. We offer a BtoB platform dedicated to training with videos, tutorials, training sheets: all around the world our estheticians and beauty advisors can access it 24/7. This allows them to perform consistent PAYOT protocols and deliver relevant consumer advice from Australia to Canada. Our international training center located in our HQ office is also a great asset and the sessions are fully booked. The best place to go to learn while being in an immersive experience with the brand! We also reinforced the agility of our team to leverage education in the point of sales with a “training to sell” spirit that gives the possibility of immediately measuring immediately the training impact on turnover. By learning we, as human beings, probably stay younger longer. As a brand it is our duty to accompany our partners to be innovative to keep the training process entertaining and efficient. We have some surprises coming up with an innovative set up for live training sessions very soon. And, in 2022 PAYOT will take its training ecosystem to a new dimension. EM: Are you optimistic about PAYOT’s expansion on international markets, despite the recent events that have made growth more difficult? Where do you expect easier business development? RCDG: We are very optimistic regarding the growth potential of the brand internationally. Firstly, because

PAYOT is celebrating 101 years of history and ongoing success spreading over all 5 continents. Our solid and steady expansion strategy resulted in an amazing resilience in 2020. We have been able to deliver great results in a difficult context while still in a test & learn approach in both China and the US. Secondly, because the team’s extraordinary agility enabled us to seize new opportunities, enter new markets and increase market share in all regions. In 2021 we are growing by 25% compared to our record high year! PAYOT still has a lot to deliver. EM: With the brand new HERBIER line, do you wish to reach a different target of consumers, or loyal PAYOT clients as well? MLSB: HERBIER offers the twist, the vision of naturality we wanted to embody without making any compromise : a vision of clean beauty combining sensorial experience, with sustainability and efficiency. The line is also seducing alternative retail channels and new consumers, a target offering a lot of opportunities. In some countries, like Germany, where the demand for naturality is huge, our core business clients are thrilled to propose HERBIER to their existing PAYOT consumers. They were waiting for it. We also believe that our loyal consumers, overexposed to DNVB (Digitally Native Vertical Brands), are seeking to “give it a try” to naturality. They shall be reassured to buy an organic product from a brand they trust. The target audience is infinite and we are proud to showcase HERBIER on the occasion of this new edition of the TFWA 2021! Claudia Stagno

PAYOT UNVEILS HERBIER, ITS CLEAN BEAUTY RANGE With this new line, Payot continues to create natural care for beautiful skin

With over 100 years of expertise in skincare, Payot is a byword for quality products with recognized effectiveness, ultimate sensoriality, maximum tolerance and clinically and dermatologically tested. Payot also has over a century of apothecary knowhow, with its formulas containing a high percentage of natural ingredients. Then there is Payot’s French heritage: all the design, formulation, manufacturing and packaging are done in France and reflect the French culture of sensory and tactile beauty without any compromise on the brand’s exacting standards. Herbier, the new

Clean Beauty range developed by Payot, is based on the above values and embodies the brand’s ultimate standards in terms of naturalness and commitment. This alternative range is based on a simple routine and on committed and minimalist formulations, certified Cosmos Organic by EcoCert. The five products in the range have been conceived for total well-being in the skin and body and each one contains a meticulous selection of organic, pure essential oils and botanical extracts with powerful components. The formulas are clean, vegan, free from ingredients of animal origin and GMOs. The brand’s hallmark sensoriality is still

INTERVIEW

present: the textures are unique, holistic, with a sensual velvety feel and aromatic notes of essential oils that envelop the mind for total well-being. The consumption of water has been reduced as far as possible in the range, prioritizing oils and solid, water-free galenic forms. All the jars and bottles are made from recycled glass and come without boxes, to save paper, while the labels are made from recycled paper and the transparent seals are plant-based, make Herbier a range very much aware of the planet and its resources. Essential oils are at the heart of each product in the range. With their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, the 4 essential oils help boost the skin’s defence system to eliminate toxins and other waste that accumulates on the skin. Each essential oil has its own olfactory strength, with renowned properties for the mind. Lavender is relaxing, with its fresh, aromatic and woody scent; Thyme is invigorating, with its sweet, lemony aroma; Rosemary is relaxing and draining with its fresh, camphoric and woody fragrance and Everlasting Flower is revitalizing, with its sunny, honeyed and aromatic fragrance.

The products

pollution particles. Its melt-in texture transforms into a milk on contact with water and offers a true moment of well-being, leaving a comfortable film on the skin. Face Beauty Oil with Everlasting Flower essential oil reveals the skin’s youthful appearance. It nourishes the skin in depth with sunflower and olive oils. Formulated without synthetic fragrances, it melts into the skin. Drop by drop, the features are smoothed and the skin regains its natural radiance. Universal Face Cream with Lavender essential oil soothes and comforts skin, as well as moisturizing it thanks to olive oil, leaving the complexion luminous. Its light and fresh cream texture offers a comfortable, melt-in finish that is suitable for all skin types in all seasons. Nourishing Face and Body Massage Bar with Rosemary essential oil has a solid texture, made from oils and butters, that melts upon contact with the skin and is perfect for massage for an intensely relaxing experience. Revitalizing Body Oil with Thyme essential oil brings comfort and suppleness to the skin. Its natural olfactory intensity with lemony notes envelops the mind with a gentle, invigorating power. The formula also includes a blend of soy, olive and sunflower oils and its incredibly soft texture is perfect for massage, creating an intensely relaxing experience.

Face and Eye Cleaning oil with olive oil gently cleanses without damaging the skin barrier thanks to the emollient properties of olive oil. A combination of gentle, plant-based surfactants removed even waterproof make-up and dissolves impurities and

The Herbier range offers a clean and simple routine of cleansing and make-up removal, nourishing and detoxifying, moisturizing and soothing, as well as massaging and revitalizing.

17 TFWA Cannes: Beach Village 1/Booth 14

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NAJ•OLEARI BEAUTY

IDEAS GALORE

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The Italian cosmetics brand, owned by EuroItalia, presents an exciting range of new products

FOR CHRISTMAS The line-up of products from Naj Oleari Beauty for this Autumn/Winter season is exciting and full of colourful surprises.

The Cherry VIP Beauty Box Following the huge success of the VIP Beauty Box which featured in the Italian edition of Celebrity Big Brother, with all the VIP Beauty Boxes sold out in a few hours on the Naj Oleari Beauty website, this year the highly-coveted Beauty Case will be available in perfumeries as well as on the website, in a delightful new livery. Two versions are available, Mini and Maxi, each containing a different selection of the bestselling products in the range. The Mini Cherry VIP Beauty Box, measuring 22.5 x 16.5 x 19 cm, contains Wear the Volume Mascara and Deep Eye Kajal; an Eye Brush; Delicate Micellar MakeUp Remover, Colour Fair Eyeshadow no. 02; Plumping Kiss Lipgloss 03 and Oleo Gel Nail Lacquer 30. All the products in the Beauty Box are packaged in boxes like those of the sales range. The Maxi Cherry VIP Beauty Box, measuring 25 x 20 x 23 cm, contains Wear The Volume Mascara + Deep Eye Kajal; an Eye Brush, Delicate Micellar Make-Up Remover; Creamy delight Lipstick 06; Plumping Kiss Lipgloss 03; Bright Potion Highlighter 02; Wonderlook Eyeshadow Palette 01; Oleo Gel Nail lacquer 24 and Glossy Gel Top Coat. Both Beauty Boxes represent a saving on the price of all the products if purchased singly.

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The Naj Oleari Beauty Advent Calendar The countdown to Christmas is even better with a beautiful Advent Calendar and Naj Oleari Beauty has produced this year’s Limited Edition Advent Calendar which will be a great object of desire for all beauty fans. Last year’s Advent Calendar sold out on the najolearibeauty.com only two hours after it appeared in the Italian Celebrity Big Brother house. This year’s luxurious calendar, designed with twentyfour mini-drawers, contains as many beauty gems to discover day by day in the run-up to Christmas. Perfect as a gift or as a special treat. It not only contains special sizes and practical accessories, but also 9 full-size make-up products. The elegant box with drawers can then be kept to organize make-up, jewellery or small accessories. The contents include five products for the face, two of which are full size; six products for eye make-up, three of which are full size; five lip products, two of which are full size, two full size nail products and six accessories. Once again, the product offers a considerable saving on the sales price of the full sizes and of the special sizes and accessories.

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The photos are from the upcoming new advertising campaign.

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Naj Oleari Beauty Make-Up Sets The Naj Oleari Beauty Make-Up Sets have represented the symbol of a generation, perfect as a gift idea for others or for oneself. History continues with this year’s limited edition, a delightful satchel, inspired by postmen’s bags, in two sizes, “La Postina” Small and Large. The Small size contains a face, eye and lip palette, ideal to create a radiant and scented look. There are four eyeshadows in matte and pearly finishes, easy to apply and blend in, for perfect day or evening wear. A bronzer and a blush in powder, with light and silky textures, give a healthy glow to the face and a natural tan effect. The highlighter in a creamy texture, to be applied with the fingertip, is idea for creating points that catch the light.

To complete the look, 4 lip glosses and lipsticks give a bright and naturally coloured finish to the lips. La Postina also contains practical applicators for the eye and lip products. The large version of La Postina contains all the products necessary for complete make-up. Ten eyeshadows with matte, satin and pearly finished, easy to apply and blend in, allow creating different looks day after day. For the face there are two powder blushes, one matte and one pearly, a silky-smooth bronzer and a mattifying powder to apply with the sponge included. The highlighter catches the light on cheekbones, the nose or Cupid’s bow. Lastly, five lip glosses and lipsticks, to be applied with the double brush included, give glossy and delicately scented lips.

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Velvet Romance Velvet Romance is the name of the Naj Oleari Beauty make-up collection for Autumn-Winter 2021, inspired by a velvety and timeless atmosphere which combines modern and antique styles, the contemporary and the vintage. Velvet Romance make-up comes in fresh and feminine packaging, thanks to the iconic elements of the Naj Oleari Beauty line: pastel shades, patterns inspired by nature and sophisticated rose gold details. The make- up warms the complexion with the colours of the earth and illuminates it with sophistcated microbeads. The colour focus is on the eyes, which are framed by warm and radiant shades. Lips, intense in colour, shine thanks to sophisticated microbeads for exceptionally long-wearing make-up. Following the trend for hybrid skincare and colour products, Glow Me Perfecting primer minimizes minor imperfections, evens out colour and brightens it. Its lightweight and non-greasy formula improves the staying power of make-up and its special texture reduces signs of tiredness and awakens the skin for a fresh and smooth complexion. Velvet Romance Face Palette contains a bronzer, two blushes and one highlighter to sublimate the complexion and sculpt the volumes of the face. The lightweight and deliciously scented powders are easy to blend in and give a fresh and radiant complexion. Shiny Duo Liquid Eyeshadow has a luminous finish and comes in four variants of colour. Easy to apply and to blend in, the colour combinations are pearly and shimmering for a high impact eye make-up. Pearly Romance Lipstick is a slim stylo in three colours and an exceptional innovation as it combines the concept of a pearly finish with a no-transfer effect, which is usually only found in very matte lipsticks. The smooth formula coats lips in full and radiant colour and stays comfortable without drying. Perfect Shape Lip pencil also comes in three colours and is notransfer, guaranteeing excellent staying power and resistance to water. The rich texture offers a very comfortable sensation on the lips.

Click On Me Extra Volume Mascara Click On Me Extra Volume Mascara is the latest addition to the Naj Oleari Beauty mascara line-up. It gets its name from the innovative way of opening it: a patented “click” that only requires light pressure on the ergonomic cap, without twisting. The special hour-glass shaped brush follows the lashes and intensifies the immediate volume effect, and the perfect balance between thickness and length of its soft fibres guarantees a panoramic volume effect. Thanks to the creamy and fluid texture, release of the product is even and it coats all lashes with a buildable effect. Furthermore, the special active ingredient Akosky Azuki, derived from red closer and mung bean, stimulates and improves lash regrown for thicker and longer lashes after only 30 days of use.

COMPANY

YUZEN Ageless synergy for skincare Are yu Zen? The philosophy of this Japanese brand produced sustainably in Italy applies the ancient Zen philosophy to skincare, combining its Oriental respect for nature with groundbreaking technology. The logo of Yuzen is the bonsai, which symbolizes the minimalist approach of Zen Buddhism and teaches us to eliminate clutter and the superfluous from our lives. To grow and thrive, the bonsai needs specific nourishment and care: just as skin require the same attention to be beautiful, at any age.

The e “Flora Yuzen philosophy is a perfect blend of science and nature to create Zen moments for yourself. Sustainable production means that a minimum amount of plastic is used in the packaging, 100% PCR cellophane is used; the high quality production chain is 100% Italian; the products contain no controversial ingredients (0% silicon, mineral oi, parabens or phenoxyethanol), they are vegan-friendly and the formulas are

all dermatologically tested. Great attention is paid to detail, in the soft-touch printed handcrafted glass, the brilliant 3D screen printing, the “Flora” CordenonS paper and the glossy printed tactile logo.

A fusion of technology and botanical extracts The nourishing philosophy of Yuzen evolves around the concept of layering and softness. Specific nourishment and constant care are ensured by the unique fusion of state-of-the-art technology and pure, nutrient-dense botanical extracts, embodying the essence of timeless beautyTanesankai® is an advanced complex with an innovative blend of cell-supporting Camellia Japonica and Camellia Sinensis extractsand high-performance natural oxidants for the ultimate in skin defence, along with collagenboosting vitamins and nourishing, moisturizing and anti-ageing properties for a smooth and youthful complexion. Reishi mushrooms, revered as the “mushroom of immortality” for centuries, contain powerful bio-active compounds. Nourishing and detoxifying, their extracts soothe and regenerate even the most sensitive skin, preventing premature ageing while boosting resilience and moisture levels to leave skin soft, supple and moisturized. The Job’s Tears grain has been used for centuries in Japanese herbal infusions to promote overall health. Job’s Tears offer incredible regenerating properties while gently purifying, refreshing and illuminating the skin to make it visibly, smoother, brighter and firmer. Bakuchiol or the “herbal Botox” is a natural source of powerful antioxidant phytonutrients and a real alternative to retinol. It promotes collagen production and cell renewal, strengthening the skin and minimizing the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

Forma Italiana is the official worldwide distributor of Yuzen brand

INTERVIEW

FORMA

The global distribution of the prestigious skincare brand Yuzen opens up new horizons for the important Italian group headed by Claudio Gabbai

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Forma Italiana has recently founded a Luxury Division, how is it structured? CLAUDIO GABBAI: This new division was founded three years ago, with the initial intention of distributing in Italy brands of selective perfumery. We started with Lolita Lempicka, an international brand which needs no introduction, to then continue with La Perla, which we have been presenting on the market in the past few months. La Perla, now owned by a British group, has dedicated an important focus on the beauty sector and the result is really surprising, I would say with a “wow” effect. There are two lines on the market, one hyper selective, made up of fragrances, make-up and skincare, and one in the affordable luxury category, consisting of the classic La Perla fragrance, which has been completely reinterpreted from the olfactory point of view. No men’s fragrances are due to be produced, in consideration hat La Perla has an exclusively female connotation. We believe greatly in this brand, on which the ownership is investing a lot; in Italy,

data at hand, brand awareness is of 98%. The division is headed by Roberto Marabese, who has a great knowledge of the perfumery market, assisted by the young Edoardo Gabbai: two generations that are taking on this new adventure together, made up of great respect for the brand and the correct ways for positioning the ‘gems’ which we now distribute. The marketing divisions is made up of Lara Lorenzini, who looks after Yuzen, and EriKa Segalin, in charge of Lolita Lempicka, La Perla and Gamarde, an organic and natural French brand, which is France is present in pharmacies and health and beauty stores and in Italy distributed through another division. Piero Pelle, a real expert with over 20 years of experience on the Italian market coordinates everything. With him also came the distribution of Ulric de Varens, assigned to our mass market division, which is totally separate from the luxury division, both as sales organization and as logistics.

EM: Another brand has recently been added… CG: Which deserves a separate discussion. It is a skincare brand, Yuzen, which belongs to an important multinational group. We have acquired the licence for worldwide distribution of Yuzen. This step represents an important turning-point for us. A challenge which we intend to face with great commitment and responsibility. It is a topical, Japanese brand, with attention paid down to even the tiniest detail, from the raw materials used in the packaging, from the marketing to the communication. It is made in Italy, because we are firmly convinced that Italian cosmetics is absolutely up to those of other equally renowned countries; I feel I can say that Italian-produced skincare is in the top five in the world.

INTERVIEW

ITALIANA A NEW STEP FORWARD EM: How will you position Yuzen? CG: It is a new brand with all the credentials to triumph in the best perfumeries. For this to happen, we must not be in a hurry, and operate carefully to make it known and appreciated. The results are truly surprising and this is the aspect that counts most, i.e. the famous customer satisfaction. In Italy we expect to enter 90 points of sale by the end of the year, to then reach 200. Our team is made up of a Training Manager, Marisa Stefani who is a biologist and some beauty trainers, who will visit the points of sale regularly, both to train the personnel and to support the sales. We have prepared a sampling activity, real masterpieces in miniature which reflect the prestigious original product. EM: What is your strategy of distribution abroad? CG: First of all I have to say that the pandemic was certainly of no help, and it is a problem that unfortunately each one of us experienced personally and in their business, but I am confident that this autumn, and more precisely with the Tax Free show in Cannes, it will be possible to present Yuzen to the nest international operators, whether they are important chains of selective distribution, or distributors , based on the situation in the individual countries. I am certain that we will be able to do good work; it has taken two and a half years to finalize Yuzen, but now we can’t wait to make it known and appreciated by real connoisseurs. EM: The market is evolving all the time, e-commerce is winning over increasingly large slices of the market. What is your opinion on that? CG: We have believed in it from the very beginning; eight years ago we had the feeling that e-commerce would have become a channel in constant growth. This is why we made important investments, starting from logistics which in my opinion accounts for 50% of the good functioning of this channel. We have dedicated a warehouse f 5000 sq.m. to e-commerce in order to

be able to provide a complete service to our clientele, both for b-to-c and for b-to-b. We buy the goods, we tore it, we do home delivery. We also offer a service of logistics, in an area dedicated to them, to some smaller brands, in particular of cosmetics. We offer a full service, which allows them to greatly reduce costs thanks to the use of our more than tried and tested structure We interface with the most important Italian and European platforms, with which there are transparent relationships, for example concerning the price positioning of the individual products. EM: Clear ideas and suitable development programmes to carry on the various activities of your group. Can we say that the term ‘specialization’ defines in a word your modus operandi? CG: Each one of us, both at personal and corporate level, has to be specialized in what we know how to do. It is often the case that certain entrepreneurs, with good expertise in one specific field, fail in wanting to carry on along a sector that is not theirs, convinced that they can be successful. It is not like that. Each person has their own trade. At Forma Italiana we are structured with a certain inflexibility, which is really essential: each one of us works according to their skills, whether fragrances, make-up or skincare. Claudia Stagno

+90% N AT U R A L ORIGIN INGREDIENTS

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ASTRA CONTINUES ITS JOURNEY THROUGH ECO-FRIENDLY COSMETICS BY COMPLETING THE RANGE WITH ALL OF THE NECESSARY PRODUCTS TO CREATE A MAKE-UP LOOK WITH PRODUCTS THAT ARE FORMULATED WITH MORE THAN 90% OF INGREDIENTS OF NATURAL ORIGIN. VERY HIGH PERFORMANCE MEETS GREEN FORMULAS CREATED WITH ACTIVE INGREDIENTS OBTAINED FROM THE FRUITS OF NATURE, FOR A BOUQUET OF GENUINE AND VIBRANT SHADES. WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM

ASTRA MAKE-UP CREATES ITS FIRST SKIN CARE LINE TO TRANSFORM THE SKIN CARE ROUTINE INTO A SENSORIAL AND PLEASANT PATHWAY: FROM GENTLE AND DEEP CLEANSING TO TONING AND MOISTURIZING TREATMENTS. A RELAXING AND PLEASANT PATH THAT LEADS TO THE SUMMIT OF BEAUTY: BEING YOURSELF IN THE BEST SUIT, YOUR OWN SKIN.

WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM

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ASTRA MAKE-UP LOOKING TO THE FUTURE

Astra Make-Up was founded in Todi in 1988 out of the dream of a pharmaceutical chemist Giuliano Settimi to create his own brand of cosmetics. Thanks to the entrepreneurial vision of his son, Simone Settimi, the current General Manager, and the determination of his wife, Lucia Menghella, Managing Director, the company continues to grow and develop, combining expertise, creativity and a 100% Italian love for cosmetics.

Internationality, innovation and inclusiveness for this trend-setting company At the centre of an important rebranding operating in 2019 in make-up, the brand has been able to open up to new horizons, last May penetrating the skincare segment with the Astra Skin line, to become a global brand in cosmetics. Thanks to extraordinarily innovative products which ensure quality and performance, safety and attention for the environment, the brand has also conquered the international market becoming a point of reference for consumers in 38 countries over the world, from Europe to the Middle East and as far as South America.

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Astra Make-Up meets every requirement of its clientele precisely, creating a very strong bond. In conformity with the latest trends of environmental sustainability, the company, some time ago, started out on a virtuous path integrating the sustainability of its environmental strategy, starting from the packaging and the evolution of the formulations with a high percentage of natural ingredients to offer a complete range of eco-friendly and natural products.

The launch which best interprets the concept of naturalness is Pure Beauty, the collection of face, eye and lip make-up that combines high performances and textures formulated with more than 90% of ingredients of natural origin, conceived for genuine and vibrant make-up looks with particular attention to the environment. For the company, people are and always will be at the centre of its mission: in favour of equal opportunities and diversity in all its forms, Astra Make-Up is synonymous with inclusivity and the breaking down of all barriers to allow everyone to always be themselves, going beyond the conventional standards of the world of beauty. The future initiatives in this area will come into the major project #BEAUTYISDIVERSITY, from the social media channels through which anyone can communicate their uniqueness, to the product which will lead to the creation of cosmetics for everyone, independently of gender and age.

LAUNCH

MEDITERRAN COSMETICS The Mediterranean is irresistibly seductive: from Ulysses who took ten long years to return home to Ithaca from Troy, to the hundreds of thousands of holidaymakers who flock to its shores in the summer in search of its unique combination of landscape, climate and lifestyle. This “middle of the earth” sea (according to the origin of its name) has been the inspiration for a new range of Eau de Parfum by Mediterranea Cosmetics, with six fragrances evoking a different aspect of the nature, light and atmosphere of this unique part of the world. The rich diversity of Mediterranean aromatic notes has a common denominator in the Helichrysum, a typical plant of the Mediterranean maquis. Its name comes from the Greek helios, meaning sun, and chrysos, meaning gold, and it is well known for its particular scent and its clusters of bright golden flowers. It is a symbol of the beauty and personality of the soul and authentic spirit of the collection.

A Mediterranean voyage in six fragrances

The six fragrances are refined and original, with fresh and citrus accents, spicy and gourmand notes, bursts of the sea and of aromatics and the luxuriant richness of a garden in blossom. Primaluce is a very feminine fragrance, opening with the citrus and fruity notes of Sweet Orange, Sicilian Citron and Blackcurrant. Fresh and joyful accords which compose a colourful floral bouquet of Pittosporum, Heliotrope, Zagara and Violet, to end of a base that marries White Musk with Amber and Vanilla Beans.

Albarosa is a sweet and floral fragrance that envelops the wearer with delicacy. The citrus and fruity notes of Calabrian Bergamot, Sweet Sicilian Orange and White Peach develop into a heart of Jasmine, Heliotrope, Patchouli and Lilac tempered by the aroma of Cedar Wood. Base notes of Amber, White Musk and Vanilla Beans complete and give texture to the fragrance. Ondariva is a fresh green floral bouquet, merging the rich sweetness of Fig Leaf with the sparkling accents of Calabrian Bergamot. At the heart, there is a refined floral composition of Jasmine, White

LAUNCH

NEA The scent of the Mediterranean in six fragrances

Rose, Wisteria and Magnolia. A trail of Lebanese Cedar Wood enveloped in White Musk is the final note of this Eau de Parfum. Luce d’Oro is a joyous and sun-filled bouquet, opening on the fresh and luminous citrus notes of Citrus, Red Mandarin and Sicilian Lemon, with a spicy hint of Black Pepper. It gently fades into a floral and fruity heart of Lavender, Jasmine, Helichrysum and Barbary Fig, leaving a woody memory of Lebanese Cedar Wood, Vetiver, Patchouli and Benzoin. Sol di Sale is fresh and aromatic. Its top notes of Calabrian Bergamot are combined with Maritime Pine and Eucalyptus and then saline accents enrich the heart, with notes of a Marine Accord, White Thyme, Myrtle, Helychrisum, Pittosporum and Lavender. A musk

and wood base of Lebanese Cedar Wood, Patchouli, Labdanum and Musk harmoniously complete the fragrance. Ombraluce is a citrus and amber fragrance full of surprises. The sparkling and spicy notes of Calabrian Bergamot, Red Mandarin, Sicilian Lemon and Pink Pepper create an original harmony with the floral accords of Lavender, Heliotrope, Geranium and Helichrysum. An amber-infused and woody base enriches the fragrance thanks to the essences of Ambergris, Patchouli, Tonka Bean , Vetiver and Sandalwood. With this collection, you can enjoy the different facets of the Mediterranean wherever you are.

APRIL 13 & 14, 2022 THE BREWERY – LONDON Better for the people and the planet

The Future of Clean Beauty is Now www.cleanbeautyinlondon.com The first Clean Beauty tradeshow experience ranging from private labeling to packaging, all in one place ! @CleanBeautyinLondon in @CleanBeauty_inL

@cleanbeautyin_london @CleanBeautyinLondon

To visit: lea.mitrou-dumont@infopro-digital.com To exhibit: adriana.rodriguez@infopro-digital.com

Strike a mood

COMPANY

NOUBA INNOVATION HAS NEVER BEEN SO GLAM

Tradition, innovation and expertise are the DNA of Nouba

“Choosing Nouba means recognizing a brand that stands out for its fresh and trendy attitude, typical of Indie brands, with the added value of 40 years of expertise guaranteeing its solidity and performance.” This is how the CEO of the company, Roberto Petrucci, describes the DNA of Nouba. With the HAPPY ME! Collection, the brand is once again developing smart products which, thanks to the active ingredients in the formulas, combine the typical performances of make-up with those of skincare.

Nouba offers a range of products that can help achieve self-expression, belying for always the cliché that a complex and performing product cannot be easy to use as well. An emblematic example is TURN ME RED. This is a marvellous “cream to powder” blush, developed in 4 shades and extremely versatile, which melts perfectly on to the cheeks, eyes or lips, releasing a fresh and transparent colour. With its soft and velvety texture, using the fingertips is preferred to offer the consumer a real sensory experience.

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Attention to the sustainability of the formulas and the care of the skin reaches its climax in a unique product, which is much more than a simple foundation. NOUBAMORE is a beauty elixir for a perfect and smoothed skin. Only a few drops are necessary and it melts instantly into the skin, offering a sublime complexion

thanks to its ultra-light texture. The result is an impeccable and natural matte-velvety natural effect which makes Noubamore the kindred spirit of every skin. The highly versatile and multitasking Nouba products allow the consumer to maximize their use and optimize their performances.

“NO-MAKEUP – MAKE-UP” In 2022, Nouba will embrace the “no-makeup – makeup” trend, with the launch of the YOUPHORIA collection, made up of essential products, rich in active ingredients which ensure a “second skin” finish and which pamper the consumer thanks to extremely silky-soft textures together with transparent and radiant finishes. Nouba interprets innovation as a continuous process of research and updating which absolutely must not entail abandoning those traditional formulas, consolidated by experience, which have led the company to the success reached so far. The combination of traditional and contemporary will be the object of an important celebration scheduled for the first half of 2022 which will mark a real “back to the roots”. The CEO added, speaking of the commercial strategy: “Tradition, innovation and expertise are the values that have allowed Nouba to win the challenge of the Chinese market. Keeping an excellent positioning is the objective that we are committed to reaching year after year. To be performing on the Chinese market it is not only necessary to have a strategic local partner,

but it is fundamental to have the right and in-depth knowledge of the culture of the place and the needs of the consumers, in terms of product performance and adequate service. This forces opening the mind to new particular requirements, guiding research and development towards innovative products.” Colour is not the starting point for successful makeup in China, but it is the logical consequence of a particular choice of performance. Direct and constant collaboration it the local partner has allowed us to provide, including overseas, an all-round customer experience, a great goal of which we can be proud. The contemporary and innovative attitude of the brand has driven the company to experience the change physically as well, transferring the headquarters to Milan, a city in constant evolution and the capital of fashion and design. In this new location, Nouba takes on the challenges of the market as an opportunity for growth, constantly oriented towards the product and the desire to satisfy and astonish customers’ expectations.

LAUNCH

MAVIVE Mavive continues to show great dynamism in its creation and distribution of fragrances and this season is no exception with a new fragrance enhancing the identity of one of Italy’s most prestigious fashion brands.

The dynamic Venetian Company also launches new fragrances from Police, Ermanno Scervino and The Merchant of Venice

Autentica Eau de Parfum by Furla This is Furla’s second venture into the world of perfume after its successful debut with ‘La Collezione’. The heritage and strong identity of the fashion house are enhanced by this fragrance, confirming the link between fashion and perfumery with its Italian style, attention to detail and high quality. With Autentica Eau de Parfum, the Furla woman will feel feminine, sophisticated, real and authentic. This colourful chypre fragrance is modern and real. The opening is irresistible and extraordinarily modern with vibrant

PRESENTS THE NEW FURLA FRAGRANCE AND MORE Italian mandarin, crisp, colourful raspberry and juicy, sensual pear. In the heart, soft cherry blossom and its sweet almond aroma blend with the slightly spicy notes of peony and fresh lily of the valley which, thanks to the novelty of the composition, take on a new personality. The base notes reveal the secret of Autentica’s character with patchouli and its unmistakable deep and mysterious woody nuances creating the sillage, while musk and cashmere wood offer a sensation of great comfort. The exclusively designed bottle is inspired by some of the Brand’s

most iconic bags and is adorned by the precious gold details of the cap, as well as a plaque engraved with the Furla logo. Frosted glass covers the flap of the 100ml and 50ml sizes as well as the entire bottle of the 30 ml, slightly hiding the delicate and feminine pink nuances of the fragrance, thus creating a visual effect reminiscent of the fashion house’s handbags. The box, made from FSC paper in new pink tones, emphasizes the Furla monogram thanks to different textures and reliefs, whilst the name of the fragrance, ‘Autentica’ prises the Italian essence of the brand.

LAUNCH

Also launching… Police Potion Love&Power Police Potion is the new line by Police, with Police Potion Love & Power writing the first chapter in a collection of fragrances inspired by the magical world of potions, ideal for men and women seeking authenticity, fascinated by the magic atmosphere of the past but also dreamers of the future. The Potion Power for Him is an oriental, spicy and woody fragrance, featuring top notes of bergamot, lavandin, aromatic notes, cinnamon and orange blossom, a heart of violet, pink lady, dry amber, jasmine and sunny notes and a base of musk, vanilla orchid, tonka bean and precious woods. Potion Love for Her is luminous and feminine, with an opening of a marine accord, grapefruit and bergamot, a heart of tuberose, orange blossom and rose and a base of peach, white musk and ambramone™. Thanks to the degradé technique – cherry red for her, deep blue for her, the Potion Power bottle reflects the mystery of the fragrance. The iconic skull here becomes a new decorative element embodied in the silver plate on the front of the bottle, warning us of the dangerous potion within!

The Merchant of Venice The new fragrance by The Merchant of Venice is Flamant Rose EdP Concentrée, inspired by the pink flamingo, one of the most elegant and unique creatures in the animal kingdom. It is a superbly balanced composition, with top notes of Mandarin, Petitgrain and Verbena, opening into a heart of Orange Blossom, Apricot and Geranium and ending in a sensual bed of Tonka Bean, Musk and Patchouli.

Police To Be Green Police To Be Green is a young and fresh creation, a burst of energy that looks towards the future. In line with authentic and natural feelings, the glass bottle has no varnish or decorations, the glass and aluminium used are completely recyclable and the whole packaging is “Vegan OK” certified. The outer box is made from natural FSC kraft paper and there is no cellophane outer wrapping. The fragrance is a citrus floral, with top notes of Essential Oils of Green Lemon, Cardamom and Orange. The heart is floral, brimming over with Violet, Jasmine and Peony and the bottom notes are woody, with Cedarwood Essential Oil, Sandalwood, Vanilla Pure JungleEssence™ Madagascar. It is a perfume that smells of freedom to be yourself and looks to the future with energy and positivity.

Ermanno Scervino Lastly, Maison Ermanno Scervino presents a new Capsule Collection of three fragrances: Chic, Rock and Glam, reflecting the idea of femininity and the aesthetic vision of the designer, through an explosion of colours and brightness. Chic is a chypre fragrance with floral facets, in a pink bottle to enhance its absolute femininity. Rock is an oriental fougere, a feminine creation with a Rock & Roll touch, with a yellow bottle evoking the energetic and original personality of the woman wearing it. Glam is an oriental and floral fragrance for the woman in search of unconventional luxury. The blue bottle recalls the irresistible charm and uniqueness of Ermanno Scervino creations.

Book your space now! Make the most of this unique opportunity to meet thousands of visitors from the industry on the show floor, and get genuine leads. Tel: +971 4 389 45 00 beautyworld@uae.messefrankfurt.com www.beautyworldME.com

31 Oct – 2 Nov, 2022

Dubai World Trade Centre

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FILA

FRAGRANCES Scents for sports and fashion lovers A century of existence is a huge landmark anniversary, but Fila is doing even better: in 2021 it celebrates a century plus a whole decade! An anniversary like that deserves a special focus! On this very particular occasion, FILA is celebrating its iconic heritage by revisiting the past and reimagining the future. The brand, which is already one of the most important sports brands in the whole world, aims to become a leader in this market. This year’s celebrations include many sponsorships in sports, specifically tennis, and collaborations

with fashion brands like MSGM and Y/Project, but one of the most important events was the Milan Fashion Week, where Fila presented a special collection for its anniversary. The absolutely iconic and immediately recognizable Fila F becomes the central element for these celebrations, with a dedicated logo enhancing it. Fila Fragrances is celebrating the anniversary with the F – Project, comprising two new perfume lines, representing both the sport and fashion souls of Fila, revolving around one common element, the F, the initial letter that becomes part of the product.

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GIVE YOURSELF A BOOST WITH FILA POWER The F-Power line is made up of two Eau de Toilettes, for those who identify themselves in the sporty spirit of FILA, represented by the claim “Give yourself a boost with Fila Power”. The fragrance for men is very intense and spicy, but at the same time very youthful, with scents of cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg combined with intense notes like patchouli and cedar wood that make this eau de toilette perfect for every occasion. The F-Power Eau de Toilette for women is the ultimate scent for the young and free woman. A heady concentrate of sweet and fruity scents, with very fragrant floral notes enriched by strong gourmand notes, making it the perfect ally for powerful personalities. The fancy tie-dye pattern of the boxes enhances this sporty attitude with its fresh and youthful colours.

FEEL THE FILA GOOD VIBES The F-Vibes Eau de Parfum line is inspired by Fila’s identity in the streetwear field with a mood summarized by the claim “Feel the Fila good vibes”, referring to the Fila vibes, a fashionable and appealing way of being. The Fila range of stylish and trendy streetwear with a strong identity of its own is reflected in the fragrances which are just as stylish to wear. An oriental, woody Eau de Parfum for men that is a blend of notes that make it very sophisticated, perfect for those who love to leave their mark. Fresh and spicy top notes of tangerine and cinnamon merge

perfectly with the stronger base notes of tobacco and amber, for a memorable fragrance. The F- Vibes Eau de Parfum for women is the perfect representation of the feminine essence, a fascinating blend of fruity, floral and bitter citrusy notes, an uncommon balance between different scents, that makes the fragrance very elegant and refined and the right choice for unique women. A beautiful box holds this fragrance, with neon and high-impact colours contrasting with elegant black parts, a combination that makes it trendy but also minimalist, with the use of only two colours.

INTERVIEW

LAYLA COSMETICS A BRAND GETTING YOUNGER DAY BY DAY

responsibilities, supported by my husband Alessandro, who has also been with the company for several years; our competences are clearly differentiated: he follows formulation, production and packaging, while I follow marketing, the administrative part, graphics and communication. EM: Can we say that the generational passage is going very smoothly? BS: Certainly, and I am well aware that I am a lucky person. I have always worked and been happy, sharing an exciting path. All this without ever having had an interview for a job (she says smiling, Ed.’s note). When you have the good fortune to be able to say, “I am Layla,” you are also conscious of having picked up a baton to hold high with pride.

INTERVIEW WITH BABILA SPAGNOLO, LAYLA COSMETICS CEO EXPORT MAGAZINE: Babila, you have been at the head of Layla Cosmetics for a few years now. What is your state of mind, after having spent more than 20 years at the side of the legendary Mrs Emma Rossetti, your mother…? BABILA SPAGNOLO: My state of mind is made up of many different feelings. I found myself in the company the day after I lost my mother, and I felt a great emptiness all around me: It was as though the company had lost it soul, because she was, and still is the heart of Layla. Even today, three years later, I find it hard to say “my company” because inside me it is still her company. I owe her so much for everything she taught me, both from her desk facing mine and from ending me around the world, when I was barely more than twenty. If it wasn’t easy from a psychological point of view, as far as work is concerned, I have only taken in full my

EM: With all due respect for the history of Layla, have you decided to make changes and implement new strategies? BS: It was essential to build up an organizational structure that allowed me to decentralize what had been run by only one person in the past: we have very clearly defined roles and each person deals with their own sector, we have periodic meetings to take stock of the situation and proceed with the established programmes. This allows us to work with great tranquillity, and I believe this is very important, let’s not forget that we are a brand that offers colour and enthusiasm. We have to get joie de vivre from our work otherwise it would not make sense spending so much of our time dealing with things that do not thrill our emotionally as well. EM: A great evolution can be seen in your brand, both at the level of the products and of communication, what type of strategy are you adopting? BS: There is only one answer to this question: my team and I do not launch product if there is no message behind it. Thanks to this way of working, Layla has grown enormously: unlike in the past, communication takes place at the same time when the product goes on

INTERVIEW

to the market. How? Through the social networks, but not with the typical ways of the brands, i.e. through influencers. I put myself on the line in the first person, and I decided to be the testimonial of Layla. I overcame various types of uncertainties, at first even of some of our distributors but who immediately changed their minds. I am convinced that nobody better than me can speak to the Layla community, because I am Layla, and I tell my followers true stories, which speak from one to one person to another, without discriminations of gender, race or particular physical characteristics. In my lives, I talk about make-up but also about other things, the right to be oneself, where make-up becomes a means to express yourself, to assert our full freedom. Did I have to get to the age of 40 to realize this? Not really, I have always been an unconventional person, it’s only now that I have found a way to channel all my energy and passion for make-up and convey it externally. The Layla community has grown from 20,000 to 97,000 followers, real ones….. EM: How do you manage to run the company and find the time to follow social media so closely? BS: It’s easy, there’s Babila the manager in her lovely bright office, which also speaks of the way I am, lots of white on which to build my colourful world, and there’s Babila who goes live, in the evening even for three hours, she puts on her make-up, she takes it off, she explains how to use the products in the best possible way, always in the freedom of making-up as you like. Where there’s a will, there’s a way, it’s not true that ‘I don’t know how to use make-up’. You have to want to learn, to practice until you become your very own make-up artist. Believe me, it has become a second job, but I do it with great pleasure because it is the result of a choice, not to delegate to others the interpretation of my brand. EM: Working and enjoying yourself at the same time, ‘what else?’ as a well-known advertising slogan would say… BS: What else? I can answer straight away, working with people who are able to interpret the Layla brand so well that they become its added value. I insist that I am lucky, let me give you just one example: when my husband made me try a mascara that had just come out of our lab, at first I was sceptical: good at make-up and nail varnishes, we were not particularly brilliant on this product. The new mascara, although it did not have synthetic or natural fibres in it, has fibres on the applicator which, as they rest on the lashes, create

volume over the whole length; it is precisely thanks to the formula that this fantastic effect can be achieved. And bravo to Alessandro, it is when we persuade consumers to forget about false eyelashes once and for all. The name of the product is ‘The longer the better’ and who better than Rocco Siffredi, the well-known Italian porn star to be the testimonial of our mascara? Rocco loved the project from the start and we began on the social networks. He is professional, friendly and the perfect guy to play on the double meanings. Basically, what we wanted was to be ironic and at the same time convey the message that the mascara really lengthens the lashes more than all the others. We were sold out in a flash! Our mascara is and continues to be a bestseller in the best perfumeries, and has overtaken the sales of competition. It is an excellent product we have made known the right way.

As you can see we do not hesitate to bring in men to interpret our products; this is the case of ‘Noon by Fedez’, a line of nail varnishes for men in which the versatile TV and Internet personality wore our products. In our social live ‘Truccazzi,’ it is men who learn how to put on make-up… Still on the topic of figures, from the autumn we will be coming out with a project recorded in May with an interesting figure from the Italian music and TV scene: the music expert Mara Maionchi. In 4 episodes, we will go back over the history of Layla in parallel with the history of music in Italy. For each period, our products of reference, and singers and songs from the same years. Mara, who is no longer very young, has become far more famous in the last ten years than she ever was before, thanks to X-Factor e and many TV appearances. Her beauty and her energy are an example of how you can be a ‘Starlet’ - which is how she likes to define herself - at all ages.

INTERVIEW

EM: Is the fact of being a manufacturing company an advantage? BS: Absolutely, an idea leads to a product, and it can be put straight on to the market. This is a great advantage over brands that are only commercial and which our distributors greatly appreciate. Being able to launch an interesting new product immediately, and communicate it directly to the consumer is our trump card. In the middle of the lockdown we launched a trichrome liquid eyeshadow, we were the first to make it in Italy and put it on the market. With a perfect formula, carefully designed packaging and display, it needed the right name: ‘Rarity’ trichrome liquid eyeshadow, and the slogan:’ Don’t feel different, feel rare.’ The products have the names of different stones, which are not precious, but rare, such as alessandrite. The effect on the social media was sensational, the message that each of us can emerge, feeling different, really hit home. We had lives with people who put Rarity on their bodies, which the product allows. EM: Can this model of success be replicated? BS: Very much so insofar as our partners, each in their

own country, can implement communication through the social media, naturally according to local habits and practices. Creating a flow of the clientele towards the product is the best way to make your brand a fixed reference for consumers. For example, are you looking for a semi-permanent nail varnish? Layla. I am confident that, after this long period when we haven’t been able to travel, today we can at last go back to meeting our foreign operators, and present the new era of Layla to them, a brand which is getting younger day by day. EM: In Italy the Association of Italian Manufacturers, Cosmetica Italia, has recently given you an important position, chairperson of the beauty sector. Are you pleased? BS: So far I have only made one appearance during the OnBeauty event in Bologna in September. What can I say? I hope to be able to make my contribution, even though it is not really in my DNA to hold official positions. There are not very many women in the Association, so bring a personal point of view could perhaps help to broaden horizons, a touch of colour has never hurt anyone! Claudia Stagno

“DON’T FEEL DIFFERENT, BE RARE”

@laylacosmetics

company

BELLAGIO

A NEW FRAGRANCE FROM DIAMOND INTERNATIONAL Diamond International – a dynamic company based in Milan and belonging to the Sodico Group – has been able to interpret in a unique and intense fragrance for women - “Bellagio Eau de Parfum” – Italian production understood as synonymous with responsibility and value, excellence and creativity. Diamond Int. drawing on its role as a top player in the masstige market, thanks to important partnerships in the world of fashion, lifestyle and sport, has created a fragrance where the past and the future meet on its refined notes of great appeal.

A contemporary interpretation of a timeless Italian place There is a place at the bottom of the soul where sooner or later we all return to: it has the reflections of light of an iconic spot, with a comfortable name, as soft as a light breeze on summer evenings, like the scent of the green gardens of marvellous villas. It has the name of Bellagio, a precious pearl, lying on “that arm of Lake Como”, the timeless incipit of The Betrothed, the unique setting of a new dolce vita, in the shadow of the majestic Alpine peaks. Bellagio Eau de Parfum starts from the same incipit, from that arm of Lake Como which turns off to the south: a cocktail of worldly notes which blends the flavour of strawberry and raspberry, intense and bold, with the freshness of mandarin, as lively and intense as the glittering lights on the ripples of the lake. The sweet floral and elegant heart notes embrace and warm the timeless base notes of patchouli and musk, classic, refined and ambitious like the woman who chooses Bellagio, a unique and timeless fragrance. The very sophisticated bottle evokes the harmony of the buildings reflected on the lake’s surface, brightened by the frivolous tassel which tickles with a hint of guile, the soft pink hue of the perfume. We find this colour again in the Bellagio

Body Cream, a lightweight and soft texture that leaves skin moisturized and pleasantly seductive. Diamond International is synonymous with excellence, experimentation in creating exclusive fragrances, highly advanced formulas and innovative packaging, to satisfy the pleasure of the senses of whoever wears them and of the brands that want to be represented by a unique emotional experience of the fragrance that excites and of precious essences that evoke unequalled atmospheres and worlds.

The licence projects –the result of close collaboration between an excellent team of marketing, R&D and the Sales area, have as their objective to offer a product of high quality, created with excellent and innovative formulations, with attention paid to every detail: from the fragrance to the packaging and the texture, the values and the style of the brand relive in the products. The brands under licence are Ducati – 1926, Ice and Sport – Fiat 500, Jeep, Romeo Gigli, Gattinoni and Henry Cotton’s.

EVENTS

OnBeauty

byWHERE COSMOPROF BEAUTY RESTARTED

The first physical exhibition for the cosmetics industry since the pandemic OnBeauty by Cosmoprof Worldwide was held in Bologna from 9 to 13 September, bringing together companies, operators, buyers, distributors and retailers for the first physical exhibition dedicated to the cosmetics industry after the pandemic. Thanks to the synergy with Cosmofarma ReAzione, the leading event in the healthcare, beauty care and all services related to the world of pharmacy, and Sana, the international exhibition of organic and natural products, contacts and new projects between different channels were facilitated. The platform involved 1,150

brands and 50,000 operators. OnBeauty by Cosmoprof emphasized the optimism and resourcefulness of the sector which after a difficult period has shown its potential to return to pre-Covid economic values, thanks in particular to the innovation and creativity that continue to move suppliers, brands and professionals. The presence of international players from over 20 countries also showed the prestige of the Cosmoprof brand in the main markets. Necessarily resized in terms of the number of exhibitors and visitors, this did not prevent companies form registering excellent attendance of qualified operators and concrete business opportunities, thanks to strategic and targeted contacts. Renato Ancorotti, President of Cosmetica Italia – Personal Care Association, commented that “This is an important signal, projected towards a complete restart next year, with the 202 edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna.” The presence of both local and national politicians creates, he continued, “a dialogue that does not stop and continues with the aim of permanently protecting and accrediting cosmetics among the excellence of Made in Italy.” As Enrico Zannini, General Manager of BolognaFiere Cosmoprof stressed, “OnBeauty by Cosmoprof is proof that the cosmetics industry has gone beyond the difficulties of the last months: brands and attendees finally returned to talk about new products, trends and the future. […] OnBeauty by Cosmoprof was the rebirth event for our industry, providing enthusiasm to face the challenges of tomorrow.” Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna will be held in Bologna for the 53rd time from 10 to 14 March 2022: save the date!

FROM

99 % 60

UP TO

% INGREDIENTS OF NATURAL ORIGIN ORGANIC INGREDIENTS

MADE IN ITALY www.naturaverde.com ECO FRIENDLY PACKAGING

COMPANY

A 100% natural line of quality products

So.Di.Co FOCUSES ON WITH THE

ORGANIC NATURAVERDE BIO MAKE-UP LINE

Authentic beauty and respect for the skin, these are the keywords that make the face, lips and eye make-up line of Naturaverde, a certified and organic brand of cosmetics belonging to the So.Di.Co Group, unique. The Naturaverde mission has always been to offer products of quality guaranteed by the experience in the sector of organic cosmetics and continual research in the field of dermatology. The innovative formulas – enriched with selected raw materials, such as Vitamin E, Rice Powder, Corn Starch, Shea Butter, Avocado Oil, Aloe Juice and

Carnuba Wax – together with new pigmented and highly performing colours, are the two key elements of the concept of the 100% natural line which, with its 95 references, aims at emphasizing authentic beauty, in full respect of the skin and its delicate balance.

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by CCPB Italia, they are tested dermatologically by accredited research institutes and they do not contain Parabens, Silicones, Petroleum derivatives, Fragrances or Synthetic colourings. So.Di.Co has represented a real universe of beauty and well-being for over 30 years, which enters every home, every day, in every simple daily action. The cosmetics for body care are the result of research and careful selection of raw materials: ingredients and formulations conceived to guarantee well-being for the person and respect for the environment.

This green philosophy pervades all the elements in the collection, from the lightweight, comfortable and easily blended in textures to the sustainable packaging with a low environmental impact, from being Made in Italy to the certifications: all the formulas of the cosmetics are verified and certified

LAUNCH

THE BEAUTY OF WILDERNESS

ARTDECO formation of creases or sedimentation of the eyeshadow on the eyelid. It also soothes the delicate eyelid skin, thanks to bisabolol and protects it with Vitamin E. Mineral Eye Styler “Mineral Fading Dust” is an eye contour pencil for expressive and long-wearing smudge-proof make-up. Thanks to its innovative ergonomic design, it is easy to draw lines inside and outside the eyes. The parabenfree formula makes it ideal for sensitive eyes. Clear Lash & Brow Gel is a transparent fixing gel which leaves lashes and brows glossy and natural.

Dip Into the Beauty of Wilderness is the name of this exciting new make-up collection for Fall/Winter 2021 from ARTDECO, which pays tribute to the beauty of Mother Earth, which is so incredibly wild, deep and varied. In addition to the romantic side, the new ARTDECO limited edition also presented natural facets. Wild animals and the vibrant green of the jungle are not only found in nature but also in design or on international runways, conquered by monkeys, leopards and majestic plants which become essential patterns and trends. These images merge with shades of vibrant colours that liven up our daily lives. Beauty meets art in this collection thanks to the designs of Polish artist Ania Augustynowicz, an expert in the sector of fashion and music. Her creative process breaks down and combines images to create eye-catching works of modern art. The Limited Edition Beauty Box Trio in the 3D jungle design is idea for holding ARTDECO Eyeshadows. The magnetic container is particularly practical for travel, for eye shadows, eyebrow products, blush, camouflage cream and contouring powder. The Eyeshadows are silky, with a great colour intensity and excellent staying power, and are easy to apply. The new pearly and bright shades are Pearly Dune, Pearly Savannah, Pearly Wildlife and Pearly Lilac Illusion. The Eyeshadow Base is perfect for any eye look, guaranteeing long wear and preventing the

The new Fall/Winter make-up collection celebrates the beauty of Mother Earth The Perfect Color Lipstick is ARTDECO’s bestselling lipstick with its rich colour and intense opaqueness. This collection presents four new colours; “Heat Wave”, “Bonfire”, “Burnt Sienna” and “Desert Sand”. Mineral Lip Styler is a fragrance-free lip pencil for the perfect lip contour. The new “Mineral Sienna” shade is a delicate pinkish nude. The “Beauty of Wilderness” Blush Couture in a limited edition is the perfect combination of two shades. A pearly touch on the cheeks gives a sophisticated finish to make-up. The Jungle-themed beauty Meets Art packaging transforms this product into a real design object. Art Couture Nail Lacquer is a high-tech nail varnish that uses patented ingredients for long-lasting shine. For fast drying, it contains a highly efficient film-forming agent combined with a gel base. The brush also guarantees great precision and perfect application. The new colours for this collection are “Tender Rose”, “Phoenix”, “Sunrise horizon” and “Blazing Flames”. The new natural Nail Hardener is a curative product for the nails, thanks to its strengthening and protective properties.

Visit us at

TFWA CANNES 24 - 28 Oct 2021 RIVIERA VILLAGE - RF8

DISCOVER MORE

0% WATER 100% TEA INFUSION

Teaology is a revolutionary clean beauty skincare line, powered by the antioxidant properties of different types of organic teas. A patented technology allows to replaces water with Tea Infusion in every formula to make the product completely active. PATENTED TECHNOLOGY

MADE IN ITALY

clean and vegan beauty

ECO PACKAGING

CGS S.r.l. - via B. Zucchi, 29 - Monza (Italy) - Tel. +39.039.9000.413 - teaologyskincare.com - Contact us at hello@teaologyskincare.com

COMPANY

TEAOLOGY ALL THE BEAUTIFYING POWER OF TEA

Tea is probably the world’s most popular hot beverage, which can be found all over the world in many different versions. Teaology has harnessed the different properties of the world’s teas for its exciting products.

The innovative brand based on real tea presents exciting new products and prestigious collaboration Face and neck masks There are four new professional treatments for every beauty need with these Teaology masks, which use a new sustainable fabric, are infused with 21ml of concentrated serum, are made from 100% biodegradable cotton fabric, have a new shape with a “sculpting effect”, are dermatologically and nickel tested and have a biocompatible pH for every type of skin. Thanks to these features, active ingredients do not evaporate, the ingredients penetrate in just 10 minutes and the mask sculpts the contours of the face.

The mask has 4 ear hooks so that it adheres perfectly to the face and neck. Hydrating Glowing Peach Tea Hyaluronic Mask contains Blue Tea infusion, hyaluronic acid and prebiotics with 98% of ingredients of natural origin. Thanks to energizing Vitamin C, anti-inflammatory niacinamide, plant prebiotic to protect the skin’s microbiome and anti-ageing peach extract, this mask moisturizes the skin and increases its natural glow. Firming and Nourishing Matcha Tea Superfood Mask contains a Matcha Tea Infusion and an active complex of six botanicals helping it to firm and nourish the skin. Anti-Aging Smoothing White Tea Peptide Mask has a White Tea infusion, firming plant collagen, elastic complex, anti-inflammatory niacinamide and an anti-aging complex with six different tea extracts. Lastly, the Pore Purifying Exfoliating Green Tea AHA Mask is based on a green tea infusion, an exfoliating AHA complex, red algae to purify, salicylic acid to unclog pores, anti-inflammatory niacinamide, a purifying green tea extract and moisturizing hyaluronic acid. The Beauty Booster is a reusable accelerator silicone mask which improves the absorption of active ingredients and prevents them from evaporating , enhancing the occlusive effect and the effectiveness of the treatment.

Passion Tea: an all-over eau de toilette Created for Teaology by Nathalie Lorson, this fragrance combines the elegance of sustainably grown patchouli essence with a hint of crisp raspberry for a joyful yet sophisticated effect. It is an infusion of floral accords with a soft, gourmand heart warmed by a finish of patchouli and light woods. The top notes of pink pepper from a sustainable source, raspberry and pink grapefruit introduce the heart of tea leaves, freesia and violet. The base notes of vanilla, patchouli from a sustainable source and cedarwood make the fragrance pleasantly persistent. Passion Tea All over Eau de Toilette joins the existing All over fragrances of Black Rose Tea, an accord of rose black tea refreshed by a joyful cassis and Matcha Lemon, in which the green notes of Japanese tea meet bright lemon from Amalfi.

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Teaology and Dammann Frères: a perfect blend A first in perfumery, the beauty rituals of Teaology meet the most exclusive tea blends in the world by Dammann Frères. The story of Dammann Frères goes back to 1692, when it was the first company to introduce tea to France, making it only with natural flavourings. The traditions of great blenders have been handed down from generation to generation and innovative blends of the highest quality have been developed. Thanks to its expertise, Dammann Frères has transformed tea into a drink to be enjoyed at any time of the day, in any season and designed

to satisfy every personality. For this collaboration with Teaology, Dammann Frères has selected two blends that contain the ingredients in the product formulas: oolong (or blue) tea with the fruity notes of peach , cherry blossom, almond and rose, of Weekend à Paris, and green tea with energizing ginger, lemon and passion fruit of Miss Dammann. Four limited edition boxes containing exclusive beauty rituals and fine tea blends in the iconic tin box are the result of this prestigious collaboration. The Hydrating BeauTea Ritual comprises Peach Tea Hydra Cream 50 ml + White Tea Miracle Eye Mask + Weekend à Paris 30g Dammann Frères Oolong Tea. The focus is on firming with the second BeauTea Ritual, which contains Matcha Tea Ultra Firming Face Cream 50 ml + White Tea Miracle Eye Mask + Miss Dammann 30g Dammann Frères Green Tea. The third set is the BeauTea Ritual of Happy Skin, with Multifunctional face and eye balm 100ml and Weekend à Paris 30g Damman Frères Oolong Tea. Lastly, the fourth set is dedicated to the body with

beauTea Ritual Body, containing Jasmine Tea Firming Body cream 300ml + 2 x Green Tea Detoxing and Reshaping Bath Salts + Miss Dammann 30g Dammann Frères Green Tea. The Christmas Gift Set collection is not finished here as it also includes Matcha Tea Hand and Lips Duo, a full size 75ml Matcha Lemon Tea Hand and Nail Cream and a full size 75 ml Tea Balm Protective Lip Treatment in the transparent shade; Rose Tea Hand and Lips Duo, with a full size 75ml Black Rose Tea Hand and Nail Cream and a full size 75 ml Tea Balm Tinted Lip Treatment in the Rose Tea shade; Crackermania in two versions, one with Clean Hand and Body Cream with antibacterial, and Black Rose Hand and Nail Cream, both in 75 ml full sizes.

INTERVIEW

ITALART A COMPANY PROJECTED TOWARDS THE FUTURE

It is in Parma, the cradle of Italian perfumery, that Italart, more than 50 years ago, started to make and propose successful fragrances. Alberto Tanzi, who represents the third generation of the family, describes the evolution of one of the oldestestablished Italian companies, today a main player on the market with licensed perfumes, house brands and private labels. The prestigious John Richmond licence is a recent acquisition. EXPORT MAGAZINE: ITALART is a company with an all–Italian history. You represent the third generation; can you illustrate your path? ALBERTO TANZI: ITALART is a family business which was founded more than 50 years ago in the times of the economic boom, when everything was easy, fun and successful. Today it is a different world, everything has changed and this latest period of the pandemic has further accelerated this process has changed. Everything is not better or worse, it is only very different. The products, the way of communication and distribution have changed. Our philosophy for success is based on product (fragrances under licence, house

brands and private label), customer and distribution diversification, on maximum flexibility and speed of reaction. Fragrance is our core business in all its forms of expression. EM: You are traditionally specialized in alcoholic perfumery, with a production plant of your own. What are the requisites, from the time a licence is acquired, to create fragrances that are successful on international markets, including the Italian one? AT: There are effectively few of us left who have a production plant of our own and we are holding on to it very tightly. It lets us have greater control over quality

INTERVIEW

and a productive flexibility which otherwise we could not even dream of. As far as the success of a licence is concerned, I think that it is fundamental to enter, though we were actors, the role of the brand, working in very close synergy, exalting the strong points and the fundamental principles with fragrances and packaging that reflect the lifestyle of the brand. EM: What are the brands in your portfolio? Are there any newcomers? AT: At the moment our licensed brands and proprietary brands are: Battistoni, Rocco Barocco, John Richmond and Ipure. We also have some private label contracts in the portfolio which are giving us great satisfaction. EM: Can you give us any previews of the forthcoming launch of John Richmond? When will it be? AT: John Richmond is a brand we are very fond of and with which we established right from the start an excellent synergic relationship. It is coming out on the Italian market exactly at the moment, and

the first responses from our perfumery customers are very, very encouraging. We started with the launch of the 2 most successful classic lines inherited from the previous licensee, and a new line, Black Metal, which we will be presenting at the TFWA in Cannes. We have great ambitions both in Italy and at global level and we are doing a shoot for the advertising campaign with Bryan Adams, the international star from the world of music and today a wellestablished photographer, who has just shot the 2022 Pirelli calendar. EM: Sustainability is a topic that is dear to each of us. What is Italart’s commitment in this regard? AT: I think that every company projected towards the future absolutely has to take this need into consideration, therefore our firm is also very sensitive to the subject. We are developing an all-round super-sustainable project: from the packaging to how we develop the fragrance, also trying to limit to a minimum the polluting emissions thanks to a 0 km production supply chain. I can’t tell you any more at the moment, but I hope to do so soon.

Claudia Stagno

LAUNCH

PINK SUGAR FOR A SWEETER WORLD

Pink Sugar by Selectiva Spa is a perfume for the skin, the heart and the body, dedicated to a joyous and feminine, ironic and vital world. It is a young fragrance with fresh, light and rounded notes that lasts for a long time on the skin, for all-day sweetness.

An original and gourmand fragrance which is like plunging into a cloud of candyfloss In addition to Pink Sugar Eau de Toilette in the 10ml, 30ml, 50ml and 100ml sizes, there are also many other fragrance and body care products. Glossy Shower Gel is perfect for the cleansing routine, while the Body Scrub has a delicate and sugary texture, with real sugar crystals for a smoothing and nourishing effect. Creamy Body Lotion and Hydrating Body Mousse are perfect for moisturizing the skin, the former with a light texture, the latter with a softer and richer texture. Hair can also get the Pink Sugar treatment with the Hair Perfume, which perfumes and protects hair for a long time. The Roll-On Shimmering Perfume is a fragrance with the texture rich in glitter, ideal to give a glamorous and radiant touch to the body and décolleté. To have the sweetness of Pink Sugar all the time, the solution is the best-selling Body Mist.

Pink Sugar Sweet Collection Two new creations have joined the Pink Sugar offer of Eau de Toilette. In Berry Blast, the original Pink Sugar note is exalted by a bouquet of blueberry, which give the fragrance a sugary and fruity touch. The top and base notes of Pink Sugar are exalted in Creamy Sunshine with a touch of radiance, resulting in a very creamy and sparkling fragrance. Both these new fragrances are available as Eau de Toilette 100ml and Hair Perfume 100 ml.

Red is the new pink! The new fragrance creation in 2021 pays tribute to the famous red velvet cake: Red Velvet Eau de Toilette is the fragrance for a woman who loves sweetness but wants to exalt her sensual and feminine side. Unlike Pink Sugar and the Sweet Collection, Red Velvet comes in a box designed to have a more adult and fashion-oriented appeal. Red celebrates the joy of celebrations, of being with the people you love, of enjoying the fun side of life. The fragrance opens with fruity top notes, with strawberry and bergamot standing out. The heart blossoms with a floral bouquet, which then gives way to an oriental/gourmand base, with vanilla leaving its unmistakable notes.

COMPANY

PAGLIERI 1876 A MULTISENSORY JOURNEY THROUGH ITALY The name Paglieri 1876 commemorates Lodovico Paglieri who started his perfumery business that year with a shop in the centre of Alessandria. Over the years, the name has become a brand that is famous all over the world and part of the Italian collective imagination with Felce Azzurra and many other olfactory creations by Selectiva Spa is the first collection of fragrances based on the expertise and tradition of the Paglieri family, inspired by stories of travel to Italy’s most beautiful cities. Intense and unisex, the 100 ml Eau de Parfums evoke memories and emotions that guide the imagination through the sense of smell. The collection is dedicated to a refined public, lovers of beauty, culture and all Italian things. The packaging reflects the different Italian artistic expressions: the majolica tiles of the Amalfi coast, Sicilian carts, paper from Florence, the baroque roses that decorate venetian palaces, the mosaics and marbles of Rome, the art nouveau of the villas in the countryside around Genoa, the glass of the most famous gallery in Milan and the patterns of the typical costumes of Cortina d’Ampezzo. The bottle has the bronze hot embossed logo and is sealed by a cap decorated with the technique of sublimation, which reproduces the pattern of the box; the same pattern is replicated on the bottom of the bottle. A label in calligraphic style gives each creation the touch of craftsmanship, defining the harmony of the whole. Each of these refined fragrances is the result of great expertise and attention to detail. Designed to appeal to a public that loves beauty and seeks originality and personality, the Paglieri 1876 line evokes the eight cities of his olfactory and artistic journey.

Italy’s famous cities, full of history and beauty, inspire this collection Amalphia is citrusy and radiant, carrying us off to sub-drenched walks along the coastal road, offering freedom and effervescent positivity. Agrigentum is a floral and gourmand creation, encapsulating all the sweetness of Sicily with a moment of playful sweetness. Genua is aromatic and refined, like the vegetation outside the city, for a moment of intimate quiet and sophistication. Romae is as sumptuous and opulent as the Eternal City, a perfume of history, culture and magic. Florentia, woody and elegant, with its hints of woods and leather, evokes the fragrance of craftsmanship, easily perceptible in the narrow alleys of the Tuscan capital. Venetiae is oriental and spicy, it envelops the senses taking us to the lagoon, opening up to the future and dressing us with its elegance. The two most recent creations pay homage to the cities of the 2026 Winter Olympics: Milan and Cortina d’Ampezzo. Tribute to Milano is sophisticated and innovative, reflecting the wonders of this eclectic city in constant transformation. Tribute to Cortina is elegant, balsamic and reassuring, like the crackle of a fire in a typical Weinstube.

LAUNCH

LALIQUE THE NEW FRAGRANCE

PAINTS IT BLACK

With White in Black, the new Lalique fragrance for men, everything becomes possible

This new fragrance from Lalique is an icon for a new generation that is no tafraid to break the codes of classic masculinity. Lalique celebrates the casual-chic elegance of today’s generation with a bracing, high-contrast fragrance, for a man who dares to embrace all of its facets and contradictions. A woody, oriental and fresh fragrance, it has been created by Karine Dubreuil Sereni, who worked with a palette of very luminous and very dark notes, “like the black and white notes on a keyboard,” is how she describes the composition. The top notes are luminous and mysterious , with Italian Bergamot, Grapefruit and Incense. The heart notes again reflect this duality of light and dark with White Cedarwood, Patchouli Oil, Tolu Balsam, Ambroxan and Vanilla, while the down notes are the contrasting tones of Cardamom Oil, Pink Peppercorn, Elemi Oil and Lavandin. The bottle of White in Black is a provocative first in the world of fragrance: the matte black finish of the glass has the unique characteristic that it can be written on with chalk. This means that the bottle is endlessly customizable, you can effectively “make your mark” on it, 64 writing your name, your mood, an inspirational motto reflecting the day’s vibe… the possibilities are endless.

LAUNCH

Attivi Puri TAILOR-MADE SKINCARE SOLUTIONS REAL AND VISIBLE RESULTS

Collistar was born in Milan in 1983 and since then it has been next to every woman to help her enhance her natural beauty. Collistar believes in spontaneous, essential and authentic beauty. It is the Italian Essence of Beauty. Attivi Puri Collistar is a complete line of targeted and effective facial treatments. Few specific ingredients to give the skin only what it needs. Perfect on their own, they can be combined with each other according to our needs. New tailor-made routines to respond to the change of our skin that, together with us, has needs that vary according to the seasons, the climate, the moments of the day. The result? A beautiful, healthy, radiant skin that helps us feel good. Always ourselves, at any moment. An authentic beauty with an innate elegance, as simple as the formulas of Attivi Puri. The formulas of Attivi Puri are simple and essential. They contain selected active ingredients in pure form and optimal concentration to meet the different needs of the skin. And that’s not all. Among the active ingredients, all dermoaffins, some are associated with complementary molecules to enhance their main activity, to stimulate their endogenous production or inhibit their degradation.

COLLISTAR CLEAN RESEARCH®: SIMPLE AND PURE FORMULAS THAT CONTAIN ONLY WHAT IS NECESSARY FOR THE SKIN. MAXIMUM EFFECTIVENESS + MAXIMUM TOLERABILITY. Collistar Clean Research® strives to give the skin only what it needs: nothing more, nothing less. For this reason, each formula is designed to be highly effective without overloading it.

The doses of each active ingredient are carefully calibrated to reach the optimal concentration identified through a rigorous multi-test approach, specifically developed to obtain visible results, ensuring maximum skin tolerability.

An insight on

ARTISTIC PERFUMERY

INTERVIEW

XERJOFF THE WORLD ACCORDING TO

How many ways are there of interpreting Italian Luxury?

the deeper you go. Our consumers, from an emotional point of view, are not seeking the brand from historical knowledge, but are continuously looking for something particular, something unique. This is our case.

INTERVIEW WITH SERGIO MOMO, XERJOFF CREATOR EXPORT MAGAZINE: Tell us about the XERJOFF brand, how it came into being and why it has the payoff ‘Italian Luxury Parfums? SERGIO MOMO: Italian Luxury Parfums is a fairly obvious statement which orients understanding the sector we operate in, which is that of perfumery made in Italy. The name Xerjoff has something mysterious about it, the way of pronouncing it recalls Russian or a Slav language; it is already telling a story, it communicates that we are a complex brand from every point of view, not only for how our product lines are presented and the width of the references, but as a concept. EM: It is like a jewellery box… SM: Yes, a fairly large one. Like Russian dolls, where you discover one thing at a time. The deeper you want to go,

EM: Why do consumers choose Xerjjoff? SM: We are favoured by the fact that we have been on the niche market for more than 15 years, we have some history, clients all over the world who blindly trust what we offer. There is an aspect linked to collectionism which means that many people eagerly await our next fragrance. It is one thing to choose a fragrance because you want to wear it, because it corresponds to your character and makes you feel good, another is to wait for an umpteenth extension line to come out which is part of an olfactory path which it is nice to have, and they buy it because… it is Xerjoff. I would say that we have both types of clientele. EM: How is brand awareness created? SM: The brand awareness of a niche brand is not something that can be learned at school, it has unwritten rules that at times are opposed to the traditional paths of brand awareness, while operating in the world of luxury. There are dynamics that we continue to discover day by day. I am convinced that when you are sure that you have found the way to interpret something, that factor of experimentation typical of our world, which is definitely not mechanical, disappears. It is together with our consumers that we ourselves discover whether the directions we are taking are correct or not.

INTERVIEW

EM: How is the success of a fragrance measured, by the number of pieces sold? SM: We do not evaluate the success of a fragrance by the sales; although taking for granted that everything we do is of a certain standard of quality, there are fragrances that are understood and accepted by a larger number of consumers. As for a fragrance which sells less, this does not mean that it is not as good, the opposite could actually be true, it is only more intrinsic, alternative, it might be understood later on. As we have said several times, fragrance is a work of art, which encounters different opinions. This is why I think it is a mistake to measure the creativity and the quality of a fragrance by the sales, from the niche category we would end up in that of commercial brands. EM: Do consumers’ tastes change, from one country to another? SM: Most of the fragrances meet a universal taste, and this is a sign of our times. Until ten to twenty years ago, and even further back in time, there was a discourse aimed at the individual markets; today, while continuing often in this sense, we find that may fragrances are transversally successful, from the West to the Middle East to the Far East, from North to South. Nowadays, mobility is more extensive and the more we travel, the more we assimilate. Travelling is an important way to have experiences and have cultural exchanges with other peoples. Today, although certain differences remain, we talk a lot about inclusiveness, due to the various mixtures and most highly evolved exchanges. Perfume, in its side, is not something definite to be classified for some but not for others. It has parameters which are accepted transversally: it makes you positive, it makes you feel good wearing it; probably this is a sensation common to everyone. However, watch out:

it must not become a trend, we would be brushing on the commercial. Perfume is something very personal: the impact immediate sparks on a yes or a no, there is an intangible understanding of the performance of a fragrance. The sense of smell is something particular, cultural, at times local, and it is a gesture of exchange. I say that taste is very closely linked to the natural territory because I have found, on some African markets that have preferred our fragrances with a strong character, that this took place because the inhabitants of those countries are used to the strong odours of the land where they live, the seasonal changes. For those who know the note of burnt wood, rather than that of the savannah, it is normal to be attracted by a fragrance that stands out. On the contrary, the Far East looks for delicacy, not to invade the territory of those who are close to you, which would be impolite. These different points of view and of using fragrance are all the welcome. EM: How do you communicate to consumers who turn to niche perfumery? SM: The niche, in itself, is created by those people who define themselves connoisseurs, a sort of club which you cannot join but which exists. A club of people with different cultural roots, but who have in common a certain type of approach to perfumery.

INTERVIEW

money in the most virgin phase, to then reach a sort of acknowledged leadership not only from the economic point of view but the cultural one as well. EM: Are you satisfied with what you have reached so far and what are your next objectives? SM: The question in the plural is correct, as I am the creator, the spokesperson of the brand: I am lucky to have with me a team of people who have worked hard for years to develop the brand. A team is indispensable from the professional point of view, but also for the common passion that helps overcome all the issues I am pleased with the results obtained and I am sure that there is still a lot to say and to learn in our field.

In the past few years, social media are greatly helping communication, and very quickly. As there is spontaneous aggregation, it becomes natural to communicate. They are groups which probably will never meet because they are spread around the world, but which are in contact because they have a common passion. There is also a contribution of constructive knowledge on a topic that has a limited number of members. This also applies to other disciplines such as art, music, cooking etc. EM: How did you build up your international distribution? SM: As well as having gone to the principal destinations – Russia, Middle East, the main steps - we were courageous in approaching markets which were not pre-established destinations. It is in these markets, such as Pakistan, Afghanistan, the ex-Soviet Republics, that we have made extraordinary discoveries, including from the cultural point of view and with respect to our olfactory perception. Sowing has a value: when in certain countries the need is developed to have as a market that f fragrance as well, and we are already there, we are advantaged compared to other brands that prefer to wait for more mature times. If you are trailblazers, in the country in question you are appreciated, for having spent time and

EM: Are there any important obstacles that you had to overcome? SM: Paradoxically, the most difficult thing to face up to is success. The early years are those that lay the foundations: the brand is created, they are the hardest years but also the most gratifying and emotional ones. When success starts, unexpected dynamics come into play. Groeth has to be handled and nurtured carefully; it is easy to fall into traps, rest on your laurels and stop dreaming. You always have to keep your feet firmly on the ground, aim at new goals. The success of a brand is sealed when the generational passages come. When a brand goes beyond the years, beyond fashions, it becomes a landmark in the sector. We are still young, yet we are thinking in this perspective. The important thing is not to change the values of the brand, we have to keep them all the time, with the conviction of looking towards the future: we are building to remain. You leave a mark and this is a very fine prospect, almost a quest for immortality. EM: One last question: where does your passion for fragrances come from? SM: It has always been there, from my parents and grandparents, who would not leave the house without wearing perfume. It was a daily gesture, not for special occasions. I have many passions, for art and music, the sense of beauty gratifies me. When you experience beauty, which doe s not mean luxury or wealth, you realize its importance: beauty is cleanliness, it is balance, removing the frills, being pared-down. A creative can be whimsical, they can add to take away later. They can be minimalists and then maximalists, there is a rule even in breaking the rules. Fragrance is the art in which I have been able to express myself the most. Claudia Stagno

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17- 20 MARCH 2022

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LAUNCH

LOCHERBER SKINCARE The new Brightening Cream by Locherber Skincare aims to reduce and fight the appearance of unsightly brown spots on the face caused by concentrations of melanin due to exposure to the sun or the passing of time. Its lightweight texture is enriched with tranexamic acid, an active ingredient with depigmenting properties but very delicate on the skin, capable of repairing the damage caused by UVA/UVB rays and protecting skin from external aggression and pollution. With 83% of its formula consisting of natural ingredients, such as Vitamin B3, Shea Butter, stem cells of Coffea Bengalensis, it also contains an arctic pigment which leaves the complexion radiant and Vita genesis White is a special peptide that reduces the production of melanin. It can be used during the day with a solar protection or at night without any risk of reducing a tan. Locherber Skincare Intensive Hydration Cream is an essential day/night treatment to nourish and hydrate in depth dry and sensitive skins thanks to the use of innovative natural and other exclusive ingredients. Dehydrated skins are nourished, dull complexions gain freshness and radiance and hydration is at an optimal level from the very first applications. Locherber Milky Way is the new beauty routine conceived to purify, hydrate and illuminate the skin. Inspired by the light of the Milky Way, the textures have been designed to meet the needs of younger skins as well as a fresher and lighter beauty routine for more mature skins. The packaging evokes sophisticated and purity: glass for the jar of face cream and white and rose gold for purity and elegance. Milky Way multiaction face purifying gel/ brightening milk is a fresh texture gel which becomes a soft milk on contact with water that can regenerate and cleanse skin in depth. The formula is enriched with ginger root while coffee powder has a gentle scrub effect. Milky Way detox face cream is a mini

The Milan-based company presents new skincare products spa treatment that can regenerate the skin, leaving it compact, silky and moisturized and can be used both in the morning and at night. With Meadowfoam Seeds, Shea Butter and Vitamin B3, it boosts hydration, stimulates the production of collagen. And the peptide Vita Genesis White brightens the complexion. Soy, Ginseng and Rice, together with White Tea, form a natural barrier against external agents and offer protection from free radicals. The latest addition to the Milky Way beauty routine is Milky Way Instant Glow Eye Contour Cream. With poppy extracts, Vitamin C, stem cells of the fig, this eye contour cream is ideal for those who spend many hours in front of computer screens and devices that tire the eyes. It also contains Blue Light Fighter which helps fight blue light pollution and reduce signs of fatigue. Its fresh and light texture gives immediate relief and is easy to apply thanks to its innovative roll-on applicator made up of three metal spheres.

INTERVIEW

GRITTI VENETIA

True expertise in fragrance creation Export Magazine meets Luca Gritti a heritage which dates back to the 16th century when, in the Venetian Republic, the Grittis were importers of perfumes, spices and other odorous materials. I would even go so far as to say that there is perfume in the blood of my family…

EXPORT MAGAZINE: There is something very personal behind the Gritti Venetia brand… LUCA GRITTI: Yes, it is a very particular story: today’s company, M.L.G., is a long-established one, founded by my family and present on the market since 1947, having as its principal asset contract production of fragrances, alongside the production of make-up, in particular lipsticks. On the strength of this important know-how, I wanted to continue the company, naturally with a modern approach. I want to emphasize that behind me there is my whole family,

EM: When did you start to create fragrances with your own brand? LG: In 2010: some colleagues encouraged me to create one or several fragrances that told my story, the way of perceiving the world of fragrances in which for years now I had matured solid competences. There was excitement on the market and I believed it was the right time to propose a collection with our brand. We started by presenting a line of home fragrances at the second Exsence; after the favourable welcome, the following years we also launched collection for the person, in line with the history of my Venetian family who, as I said earlier, expressed their love for fragrances and spices, all related to the present day. From the minimalist, almost pharmaceutical, packaging, we went to a far richer and more sophisticated look, thanks to the suggestions of some of our important foreign clients who told us how to upgrade the content of a fragrance with appealing packaging. The study to identify the

INTERVIEW

colours and the most precious fabrics of the Venetian Republic was interesting, to discover that there was an ideal link between silks and velvets and the most precious scents of the fragrances. EM: Let’s talk about the Gritti Venetia brand… LG: Our focus is always on the recognisability of the brand. Whatever our offer of fragrances, our emblem, i.e.. the Gritti Venetia coat-of-arms with the family motto will always appear on them. EM: How do your collections come into being? LG: With the aim of offering a complex range that includes all olfactory families, to meet the consumer’s requirements. An example of this is our White collection, the success of which is due to the fact of having focused on the quality of the raw materials and hot having wanted to follow the path of many brands of the socalled “niche” in wanting to create unisex fragrances at all costs. In our sector we have to take risks, decide to use expensive raw materials to reach the purity and quality desired. Having the courage to create a fragrance that expresses femininity in all its aspects and that identifies the appeal of a woman in all her expressions. EM: How would you redefine the concept of niche perfumery? LG: I know I am going against the trend saying that niche could be synonymous with failure. If we are aiming for a perfume of quality, for real connoisseurs, with very precise characteristics of identity and positioning, being able to sell highly respectful quantities does not mean betraying the so-called niche sector, and this is what we do. EM: What came after the Black Collection? LG: White Collection is the name of the women’s line, which started with 4 and now has seven fragrances, with one or two coming out each year. We were pleasantly surprised by how all the fragrances

Left: Monica Sandrolini, Gianni Gritti, Luca Gritti, Laura Gritti

are positively accepted by the market; naturally there are bestsellers, in this case two, Chantilly and Tutù Blanc, at the moment equal, and there is the latest addition to the family, Jacqueline. This is a perfume with a completely different approach, which I would define experimental. Instead of having fruity or gourmet notes, it is fresh, green, floral and evocative in a certain way. EM: Are there fragrances which certain markets like more than others? LG: The language of perfume is universal, and women decode the language of fragrances through parameters which do not come from different cultures or latitudes. The same fragrances are enjoyed in Russia, Ukraine, Israel, Germany, the Netherlands, the Baltic Republics, just to give you some examples. The same applied to

INTERVIEW

which incarnates “the Gritti woman” to the full ; it is a full, extremely seductive and pampering fragrance, with an important sillage.

countries that are even further away such as Africa, South-East Asia and Korea: unanimous acceptance. The same thing cannot be said about male consumers: the preferences of Middle Eastern men are different from those of Russians or Europeans. EM: The Italianness of Gritti Venetia can be seen from many elements, can you highlight some of them? LG: Let me first state that our collections speak on their own and express in full all those characteristics which are so highly appreciated in the world, and I would like to focus attention on another of our collections, created between Black and White: this is the Turchesi collection, created precisely for the aim of giving an even stronger connotation of the Italianness of the brand. The imprinting of this line is particular: the light blue bottle which evokes the colours of our skies and sea, only a citrus fragrance, although in several variations, a predominance of the colour of light blue, which comments on its own its Italian nature. In this case, there is no need to tell a particular story. EM: Do you think that experimentation is essential in artistic perfumery? LG: Experimentation is at the basis of our research, both as far as the packaging and the very construction of the fragrance are concerned. This has led us to upgrade our Gritti Privé: as well as making the bottle more luxurious and opulent, we have abandoned the classic composition of the olfactory pyramid to insert the concept of a ‘twist’, where two existing olfactory families are chosen, combining them to create something new and interesting. I think that this process will be the future basis of our way of operating. The first fragrance created with this method was Fenice, which was followed by all the others, including Oud Reale and Duchessa, perfumes which are experimental and which touch on some delicate and strategic points of the consumers. Duchessa, another of our bestsellers, is the example

EM: Love for beauty cannot fail to include love for the planet, a topic which is more and more present nowadays. LG: We are totally engrossed in applying the discourse of sustainability to every phase of our production activity: we are eliminating or reducing plastic, we are using recycled cardboard and we are adopting all the technologies possible for a gradual saving of energy. All without reducing quality in any way, which for us is an absolute priority.

EM: What type of communication do you adopt? LG: We use various means of communication, mainly the Internet and in part print. Our communication is increasing in proportion with our presence on the various foreign markets, as each country adopts an adequate plan of communication, Another important element is communication at the point of sale, from the displays to the testers and the phials, which are generously distributed. We also organized days at the point of sale where our trainers offer training, with the same method as adopted for cosmetics. EM: What do you hope for the future of your company? LG: To continue along the path taken, with the same method of step-by-step, and above all with the coherence that characterizes us. I look at our main Italian competitors – at the moment I can identify a pair – with great respect because I know that we all have the same level of quality; we are younger, and we have time to grow more. Therefore we are getting ready to reorganize yet again our production unit introducing automated machinery and processes, expanding logistics and naturally the commercial structure. Our motto will always stay the same: to work with passion to offer our clients the quality they deserve. Claudia Stagno

LAUNCH

LENDAVA

A SKINCARE BRAND WITH THE RIGHT PRIORITIES

A philosophy of minimalism with maximum results Lendava is a small town in Slovenia which has given its name to this brand of skincare created by an entrepreneur who used to spend her summers there with her grandfather, learning the fundamental lesson that simple things are what provide the maximum effect. With a family involved in the beauty industry distributing make-up, skincare and perfumes and a degree in in industrial engineering,

Priscila Fadul soon discovered that the beauty industry “solves” problems that it creates. This inspired her to launch her own skincare line, driven by the purpose of making skincare that prioritized the skin’s own functionality. Knowing that the skin functions by itself, skincare should require less effort and provide maximum effect. Inspired by the simple way of life in Lendava, Priscila gave her line the same name. In-depth research followed, with interviewing scientists, visiting labs and reading chemistry books, as well as performing endless testing, perfecting the percentages for the formulas and learning the quality and type of each ingredient necessary. Lendava is the pinnacle of daily skin ideal essentials. Products are microbiomefriendly, clean, help all skin types and conditions and are gender-neutral. Intended to replace a lengthy and unnecessary skincare regime, the two Lendava creams contain a powerful combination of the ideal daily ingredients that add value to the health of the skin without disrupting its natural functionality. The ingredients are biodegradable and its orbshaped containers are refillable and designed to keep for as long as possible. Their minimalist design meets high levels of luxury and sophistication and stand out in even the most distinguished bathroom. Good Morning is a super-potent daily formula packed with ceramides, skin superfoods, and a powerful antioxidant complex to maintain a healthy barrier and protect skin from signs of ageing, irritation, dehydration and pollution. Good Night is a maximum-effect night formula replacing up to five products in a typical skincare routine. Packed with Matrixyl 3000 peptides combined with a powerful antioxidant complex, essential nutrients and Vitamins E and D, all of which act as an intensive regeneration treatment, its sophisticated texture will give healthy and refreshed skin on waking. The creams contain a powerful combination of the ideal daily ingredients usually found in serums, eye creams, moisturizers and face oils.

LAUNCH

TEATRO FRAGRANZE UNICHE

A NEW CANDLE AND CHRISTMAS SETS

Artistic perfumery and traditional craftsmanship converge in this brand created by women A new candle La Candela Fiore is the latest creation from Teatro Fragranze Uniche, the brand founded by a group of women who have in common a love for the art of perfumery. The fragrance of this candle has fresh and sophisticated, bewitching and seductive notes. It is an explosion of floral notes that will reawaken emotions and bring back “the elegant perfume of memories” thanks to its bouquet of white flowers with a soft yet bold character.

Christmas in Florence

With its refinement it gives interiors an atmosphere of elegant appeal. The top notes are White Gardenia, White Narcissus and Jasmine. The heart is a bouquet of Frangipane, Rose, Cedarwood and Patchouli, while the base notes are White Musk and Heliotrope. This explosion of the senses in candle form is available in three sizes: 180gr, 750gr and 1500 gr.

The Florence-based fragrance brand has taken one of the icons of its city as inspiration for its Christmas gift packaging, as well as celebrating the historical craftsmanship of the city. The merry-go-round which has stood in Florence’s Piazza della Repubblica for decades and enchanted children for generations celebrates Christmas by Teatro Fragranze Uniche. Recreating the atmosphere of Christmases gone by in Florence, the red and gold of the tin immediately conjure up a Christmas atmosphere, making it a precious decoration for under the tree. The exclusive “Christmas in Florence” tin contains the traditional Teatro Fragranze Uniche bottle in the version with reeds in the 250ml size accompanied by a 250ml refill. The tin can be personalized with all the fragrances in the Teatro Fragranze Uniche line, to make a truly special and personal Christmas gift.

INTERVIEW

PROFUMART A MODERN VISION OF DISTRIBUTION

Hugh Parsons and Panama 1924: a new strategy for the two historical brands of artistic perfumery

INTERVIEW WITH ANDREA ANGELINO, PROFUMART CEO EXPORT MAGAZINE: What is the main activity of Profumart and how has it evolved since its foundation? ANDREA ANGELINO: Profumart is a company that was founded in 2020 to distribute Hugh Parsons and Panama 1924. It aims to combine two very important and historical brands of artistic perfumery with a new and modern vision of distribution, both in Italy and abroad. The market is changing and it is certain that from this point of view, Covid has definitely accelerated processes that were already under way, Profumart has the objective of meeting the new challenges that the market sets with a very precise strategy, at the same time having its roots in an Italian tradition made up of attention to detail and great stylistic coherence. EM: Do you also deal with the creation of the fragrances, in all its aspects? AA: We follow the creation of the projects from A to Z, with professionals who follow and develop the graphic part, packaging experts and above all an in-depth

knowledge of the world of fragrances, which are always the heart of a successful project. We will be coming out with important new products in this sense, and we are studying two new projects which we will be launching on to the market in the coming months. EM: Do you think it is important to regularly launch new products on to the market? AA: On this topic, I believe it is important to keep a good balance. On the one hand the market quite rightly continually demands new products, on the other, however, we do not want to follow at all costs the pressure that comes from there, for the sector in which we operate, that of artistic perfumery, I believe it is important to give the right time to the development of a project, we always have a medium/long-term vision and we always want to have projects that follow our philosophy, never abandoning the quality. Finding the right balance between these two requirements is always a very interesting challenge for me. EM: What is the target of consumers that you address and what is your distribution strategy, in Italy and abroad? AA: The target of the final consumer is definitely high, we are addressing those people who are looking for

INTERVIEW

a sign of their personality in a fragrance and who always want to experiment something that is different from the standard. The strategy as far as Italy is concerned is that of reducing the doors in order to be able to develop greater synergies with the partners we are selecting in this period, we are also looking with a certain interest at concept stores and fashion stores that can be in line with the strategies that we have in mind for development. In recent months, with some targeted decisions we have tried to raise the qualitative proposal, therefore we are selecting those partners that we think can follow us in this line. I think that today more than client we should talk of

EXPORT MAGAZINE: You deal with the development of export markets for Hugh Parsons and Panama. Which markets are particularly receptive for these two brands? CRISTIANO CERIZZA: We are talking about two longestablished brands, which have been present on the most important international markets for many years. The most consolidated results to date are definitely those in Europe, with particularly interesting performances in Russia, Ukraine, Lithuania and Estonia, Germany, the UK and Italy, to mention only the first ones. In the United States, Hugh Parsons is definitely a brand that is appreciated and known and with the new company Profumart we are trying to strengthen the relationship with our distributor with whom we really think we can develop an important synergy. We have also opened the first Far Eastern markets with encouraging results, although certainly the niche still has to be developed in those areas. EM: The pandemic definitely slowed down, but not stopped, international relations, Were you able to keep up the dialogue with the existing distributors and also to scout out new markets?

partner, sharing almost on a daily basis strategies and initiatives. As far as abroad is concerned, we are making important evaluations here as well alongside the long-established distributors with whom we have reached excellent results over the years, we also want to select directly the European points of sale which we think can best embrace this new phase of the two brands. It is certain with Profumart that we will give a new and important impulse to the existing brands; it is therefore time to go down paths that so far have not been explored! We want to be a company that will present new proposals to markets, including in terms of strategy and vision. Claudia Stagno

INTERVIEW WITH CRISTIANO CERIZZA, PROFUMART EXPORT MANAGER CC: It is certain that the last year and a half has brought about a great slowdown on foreign markets, we then tried to take advantage of the period for internal reflections, and Profumart is implementing the evaluations and consideration of this period. The strategy and search for distribution channels will be slightly different, looking for partners who are increasingly exclusive and who can follow our new strategies; in addition, we will definitely give an important focus on the whole area of digital marketing, with the support of professionals assisted by ad hoc figures from our company. EM: Are you confident in the recovery, staring from the 2021 Tax Free Exhibition in Cannes? CC: I see around a great desire to begin again, obviously there are still limitations and perplexities which advise a certain caution but on the other hand, we are really excited about the new products we will be bringing out, and alongside the attention to detail and craftsmanship of the product, we will combine a modern and dynamic vision of the markets and of its possible developments. Claudia Stagno

LAUNCH

DOLCE ROMA XXI by LOCHERBER

A new fragrance inspired by the Eternal City

Locherber dedicates its latest fragrance creation to the Eternal City , the capital of an ancient empire and of present-day Italy, and the birthplace of “la dolce vita”, famous the world over. Everyone knows the legend of Rome, founded by twins, Remus and Romulus, who were saved from certain death as infants by a she-wolf that fed them with her milk. From this legendary beginning, Rome went on to become the capital of an immense empire in the ancient world, the capital of Christianity and now the capital of a modern nation with many assets and attractions. Locherber wants this beguiling fragrance to take us to the heart of a timeless place, where chaos and beauty have been dancing together since the dawn of time, where opulence is at every street corner and where life is lived to the full. The “dolce vita” is not only bathing in fountains, but about appreciating all the beauty around us, which at times may not be perfect but unique in its imperfection.

It is an inebriating walk through the temptations of the “dolce vita,” within everyone’s reach. Dolce Roma XXI is fresh and sensual: its top notes are fruity and citrusy, with bergamot, currant, pineapple, apple and red grapes. It has an elegant aromatic architecture in which hints of rose, fig and olive wood evolve into a warm and embracing finale of musk, vanilla, amber and patchouly. The components of the fragrance are to be found in the markets, gardens and parks of the city, which is thus translated into a unique fragrance. This limited, numbered edition with a patented design has a precious collection of rare marble and natural stone caps, modelled on the lathe and inspired by the capitals of ancient columns. Marble, like the floors and pillars of ancient Roman colonnades and palaces, symbolizes the resilience of the Roman character and the eternal attraction of the city on the Tiber.

INSPIRATION, CREATIVITY, INNOVATION, SUSTAINABILITY: Discover sophisticated scents created by MANE’s perfumers, that combine creativity, technology and exclusive ingredients. Ethics and aesthetic by MANE and Trussardi. A perfume about women’s empowerment, solidarity, green conscience, and inclusiveness. Trussardi is the first perfume of the Maison dedicated to women determined to always be in charge of their destiny. A fragrance full of harmonized contrasts created by the inspiring duo of Violaine Collas and Julie Massé. An olfactory score evoking Italy’s vibrancy and excellence with a surprising Italian accord on top, a hypnotizing duo of white Dalia and Jasmine Absolute in the heart, enriched with an exclusive MANE interpretation of a timeless ingredient: Lavender Jungle Essence™. The drydown reveals a velvety touch, where refined Suede notes capture brave Patchouli and sensual Violet nuances, leaving an unforgettable sillage. A composition for today’s women that revolves around the cardinal points of an Italian spirit and feminine boldness.

Rock is a tribute to the modern and charismatic Ermanno Scervino’s woman, reinforcing the link between Haute Couture and Perfume. The fragrance represents the woman who chooses the Ermanno Scervino brand because its creations emphasize her innate strength of character. This latest creation by MANE’s perfumer Alex Lee is an explosion of femininity with a rock&roll touch. An intriguing and fresh ozonated opening with lively Citrus accents of Bergamot and Mandarin reveals, in the heart, an elegant Floral bouquet enriched by narcotic petals of Datura and Freesia and intriguing Mugane™ touches. In the drydown, an enveloping Woody trail warms the olfactory mélange with soft nuances of Vanilla.

With Trussardi Le Vie Di Milano Passeggiata In Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, MANE has given an olfactory signature to the “Milanese mundane living”, where the effluvia of the tearooms mix with expensive perfumes. An olfactive journey that starts from afar to relive the unique atmosphere of the streets of Milan. The fragrance created by Julie Massé opens with an exciting cocktail of Hazelnut Accord, Coffee Jungle Essence™ and Cinnamon Essential Oil, an inviting prelude to the discovery of the heart of the composition, where the seductive notes of Tuberose and Jasmine Absolutes are wrapped by the intoxicating Coconut Neo Jungle Essence™. In the drydown, the magnetic Vanilla Absolute mixes with the precious notes of Cedarwood Essential Oil and White Musk, for a perfect representation of the purest luxury and Italian refinement.

Created by MANE’s perfumers Violaine Collas and Veronique Nyberg, CH Under the Sea for her invites us to dive in the search of our soulmate, proposing a wonderful journey underwater with a salty and bubbly fragrance, evoking a mermaid spell through the most vibrant ingredients. The base emerges with Amber and Vanilla notes while the soft heart is made of Ylang Ylang and Coconut, and the top features energetic Pink Grapefruit and Red Seaweed extract. Romance, magic and elegance play in this submarine oasis where fantastic creatures meet.

EVENTS

PITTI A SUCCESS STORY

International artistic perfumery meets again in-person! Stazione Leopolda in Florence was again the venue where the international artistic perfumery community met from 17 to 19 September 2021. After the long period without physically meeting, this was an eagerly awaited opportunity to return to in-person meetings and to see (and smell!) new creations live and not on a screen.

About 140 maisons and brands presented their new creations, with 70% of exhibitors coming from outside Italy, to some 1,100 members of the trade from 40 countries worldwide. Three hundred foreign buyers attended Pitti Fragranze, with the majority coming from France, followed by Spain, Switzerland, Russia, Lithuania, Germany, the Netherlands, Ukraine, the USA, Romania, Poland, the UK, Turkey, Austria, Saudi Arabia and Portugal. Over 120 journalists and media operators attended, eager to discover the latest proposals at this year’s exhibition. The three days of presentation of the world’s best artistic perfumery proposals, the latest ideas in beauty and well-being and the most exclusive skincare lines all produced very positive feedback from all categories. Many innovations were presented not only by established brands but by new brands and those making their debut, thanks to meticulous scouting efforts, with the section of Spring representing the high point.

EVENTS

FRAGRANZE The special events and the presentations organized by the brands on the calendar, such as the retrospective on Ralf Schwieger curated by Chandler Burr, the presentation of Mane dedicated to Enfleurage, the Gurin Talk on Freedom in Error, the encounter with the extraordinary participation of Maestro Roberto Capucci amongst many others, made Fragranze a unique observatory on new trends in the sector and contemporary olfactory culture. As Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, said, “The return of Fragranze was a rendezvous eagerly awaited by the international community of high-end artistic perfumery and beauty. In these days, it was something we all perceived: by speaking with our exhibitors and buyers who arrived at the Leopolda from Italy and from numerous foreign countries, the feedback that emerged was very positive, and I would even go so far as to say enthusiastic…. Those who came to Florence did so with a great desire for substance, and in order to

place orders and cement new business deals.” It can confidently be said that both exhibitors and buyers were very satisfied by this show that went beyond expectations, arousing great enthusiasm.

China leading travel retail boom The changing face of beauty in China

VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director of the highly successful International Luxury Brand Consultancy. For over 25 years Valérie has been at the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. With her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and practical experience IL Brand Consultancy has become one of the most sought after management and distribution agencies specialising in global beauty. Recognised for the breadth of business sectors and extensive distribution channels it works with, ILBC’s international client portfolio spans both well-established names and newly-emerging brands in hair care, make-up, skincare, fragrance, devices and top-to-toe brands. Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies and business development is combined with an inspirational and forward-thinking approach. Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach, elevate their brand presence, improve their business performance and achieve commercial success globally. A further aspect of her business is her skill in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth which has led Valérie to regularly advise Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. This capability in combination with her advanced qualifications and proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director. From her CEW mentoring, organisation of the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) and guest lecture programmes, Valérie is a passionate and dynamic advocate of the global beauty industry. Valérie splits her time between her London HQ and her central Paris office as well as managing a satellite network in Russia & China.

The beauty industry is big, we all know that. Even Covid didn’t stand in the way of its growth with its current value standing at $511 billion (up from $483 billion in 2020), according to King & Wood Mallesons. And, China is a huge part of the industry’s ongoing expansion; in 2020 China became the world’s second-largest beauty and personal care product market after the US, in terms of market value (Statista), and with the country’s increasing urbanisation, disposable income and social media influence the demand for innovative products is on the rise.

However, home grown beauty brands aren’t satiating these savvy shopper’s appetites. No, the Chinese consumer wants global beauty brands, with over half of Chinese consumers preferring foreign brands over local ones (Statista). The problem is that beauty brands imported from the U.S, France, South Korea and Japan have not been easy to purchase. Until now. There have always been two major obstacles preventing global cosmetics brands from entering the Chinese market and capping market potential; strict laws in favour increasing animal testing and big import tariffs have encouraged Chinese consumers to shop overseas, and in particular to shop at duty-free outlets. As of this year though, both of these regulations are relaxing in a bid to attract global brands to start selling in China as well as being part of an ambition to increase domestic consumption. In May 2021 a framework was established allowing international beauty companies to sell most products in China without animal testing. Without looking at the small print this drastic pivot has opened up a new market of 1.4billion consumers to cosmetics companies. This is good news in particular for ethical brands, and for the slew of indie brands which have a strong moral focus to align with Gen- Z’s purpose driven buying tactics. And what about those pesky import tariffs? Well, they’re changing too. In an effort to boost local tourism and consumption, the Chinese government announced major changes to dutyfree shopping polices. Inspired by the need to drive the recovery of the country’s economy post pandemic, the polices include reducing corporate and individual tax rates, increasing the personal allowance on duty free purchases and even allowing consumers to purchase

duty free products online six months after returning home. The walls stopping access to China are crumbling and the country is set to become a gateway for global expansion for cosmetics brands. According to UBS analyst Chen XIN these policy changes are expected to drive the domestic duty-free market to reach RMB 203billion ($30bn) by 2025 and for overseas brands this presents a new, and evolving opportunity to connect to the Chinese market. It’s never been a better time to start selling in China.

Spearheading President Xi Jinping’s objective to focus on domestic consumption as a driver for growth alongside foreign trade is the island province, and popular vacation destination of Hainan, the world’s largest Free Trade Port. With its subtropical climates and beach front hotels this island in the South China Sea is a magnet for Chinese tourists and foreign visitors. And, crucially its duty free malls make it a haven for savvy shoppers looking to make the most of reduced tariffs. Cheaper cosmetics on a paradise island have placed Hainan at the forefront of China’s burgeoning travel retail revival. Although offshore duty-free polices have existed on Hainan since 2011, in a bid to ensure the island becomes an international tourist destination these polices have been updated, and improved. As of July 2020, the annual tax-free shopping allowance per person was increased from 30,000 yuan (~$5,000) to 100,000 yuan (~$15,500) (it was just 5,000 yuan in 2011), the range of tax-free categories now includes electronic products and liquor and shoppers can enjoy online duty-free shopping for up to six months after they leave the island, some very enticing policies indeed! And it seems these relaxed regulations are working. Whilst the rest of the world were unable to travel to China as a result of the pandemic, Chinese holiday makers were undeterred and flocked to the island in their thousands. Which, according to McKinsey, “doubled overall spend on duty free in 2020 to ~$4.3 billion, up from ~$2.1 billion the previous year by the ongoing pandemic Chinese travellers”. Hainan is now a key player in capturing Chinese luxury spending, “in 2020, Hainan became the epicentre of the global duty-free industry, a ‘lighthouse’ in an otherwise darkened sector,” said Martin Moodie, founder and chairman of The Moodie Davitt report.

The luxury beauty industry has long benefitted from Chinese consumers being big spenders, indeed in 2017 Harrods Managing Director Michael Ward reported that Chinese consumers spent a whopping £200 million a year in the department store, accounting for 10% of the company’s annual revenue. And, with the large proportion of high-net worth individuals that China boasts having no qualms about spending thousands of the equivalent of US dollars in single purchases helped boost the global beauty market profit’s considerably. Previously, these luxury shoppers would have to purchase global beauty brands outside of China but as the animal testing laws relax and duty-free shopping in China expands, purchasing domestically is set to increase making it crucial that brands seek to implement a China selling strategy quickly if they want to take advantage of the opportunities being a player on beauty’s biggest stage will bring. Purchases made in China are expected to account for 26%-27% of the global luxury goods market by 2025, according to Bain & Company. Crucially, China’s new duty-free policy is expected to extend to the mainland by this date with duty-free shops opening up in cities including Shanghai and Beijing. It would seem that establishing brand awareness in an offshore market would be a good place to start for brands seeking to capture the Chinese consumers’ attention and indeed diversifying strategies and developing a duty-free strategy are the first steps for expansion into the Chinese market. However, there are some crucial points for overseas brands to remember when developing these new strategies. Primarily, the way brands approach the Chinese market must be tailored to local demands; it is simply not enough for brands to copy western markets, they must understand the cultural nuances and the local consumer in order to achieve success in China. With multiple brands clamouring to take centre stage how can brands make sure that Chinese consumers choose them? With some clever partnerships and a solid omni-channel strategy is how. One such partner is USHOPAL. The leading brand acceleration group is credited with raising awareness of niche, global luxury beauty brands and famously only work with brands that are already sold at high-end retailers overseas including Harrods and Le Bon Marche. While most brands focus on entering the Chinese market cross boarder or with

T-Mall, Ushopal provides brands with a unique omni-branding strategy that includes access to 2,500 luxury influencers (key for appealing to the digital native generations), an in-house content studio to help curate content specifically to appeal to the Chinese consumer, an omni-channel growth team, T-Mall retail operations, global logistics and, most recently, the futureof-concept-stores Bonnie & Clyde.

For brands to make a big impact in China they are going to need to appeal to its biggest spenders, and that’s not necessarily those with the most money to burn. In fact it’s the young hot generation known as Gen-Z; according to McKinsey, although this young cohort of shoppers only accounts for 15% of the Chinese population they are responsible for 40% of total consumption giving them some serious spending power. The pandemic changed the rules of beauty across global markets; brands need to offer the double whammy of being experiential in-store to offer a unique stimulating consumer experience that shoppers have been missing as well as being easily accessible online. Bonnie & Clyde taps into both the digital native Gen-z’s and the post-pandemic consumer. The innovated curated retail space provides a luxury in-store experience for consumers to discover non-animal tested, cross-border luxury global beauty and lifestyle brands and then offers consumers to the option to purchase products online whilst in-store thus offering a seamless customer experience. Perhaps most excitingly Bonnie & Clyde is also the only beauty destination that guarantees delivery within a four-hour window for Shanghai shoppers and within 24hours for the rest of China - impressive! This try offline, buy online model has been dubbed ‘clicks & mortar’ and enables brands to develop a wider reach in the Chinese market. In the past niche, cruelty- free brands could only operate as online cross-border imports but as USHOPAL continues to expand its Bonnie & Clyde luxury retail spaces into

Shanghai, and of course - Hainan, this is on course to change. Already the cross-border retailer is seeing huge success using its store as a showroom to sell foreign brands including Natura Bisse and Chantecaille. If brands invest in innovative brand experiences via travel retail now they can begin to build brand awareness well ahead of time giving them the opportunity to directly operate in duty-free stores, and remember that from as soon as 2025 brands will be able to operate duty-free stores in Hainan without having to partner with a duty-free operator.

As well as a thoroughly modern purchasing model, William Lau, Bonnie & Clyde’s CEO cites brand selection as one of the most critical aspects of customer experience. “In order to be considered for inclusion, a brand must have displayed a multiyear history of quality products and be a leader in its own category. In addition, it must also have outstandingly positive feedback from influencers/KOLs, and consumers”, says Lau. Forecasts predict that more than half of cosmetic retail sales will be from e-commerce channels by 2024 (Statista), this demonstrates the importance of brands operating seamless omni-channel strategies, especially in an ever-changing market such as China says Lau, “today, the channels for content are much more segregated, and the way consumers buy is much more segregated” he said, “one of our key differentiations is that we’re able to manage the entire ecosystem”. While cross-border retailers on mainland China are starting to pop up, entering the market in the travel retail sector can lay the groundwork for when mainland duty-free shopping is more accessible. For now though all eyes are on Hainan, the tropical resort island looks set to make domestic Chinese consumption boom as more and more overseas brands invest in selling there while new policies encourage shoppers to travel (and buy) domestically. The prospects for entering China as a global luxury beauty brand are set to keep growing as new duty-free policies, relaxed animal-testing laws and the rise of omni-channel partners and clicks & mortar stores indicate that there has never been a better time for brands to enter the Chinese market.

For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk

EVENTS

Diego dalla iconic Palma Milano MyToyBoy mascara

Diego dalla Palma Milano is pleased to announce its participation in the prestigious Frontier Awards and to be among the finalists in the category ‘Star Beauty Product of the Year’ with the mascara MyToyBoy, an ironic and daring product that has become iconic both in the Italian market and internationally. The Frontier Awards celebrate the best of innovation, creativity and excellence in Travel Retail, distinctive features that have always characterised the company Diego dalla Palma Milano. The winners will be announced on 27 October 2021 at the TFWA exhibition in Cannes. MyToyBoy mascara, available in a selection of prestigious airports and in the cruise channel, has recently been launched in the inflight segment with very positive results. MyToyBoy does not go unnoticed and guarantees an impactful and engaging presence, which Diego dalla Palma Milano wishes to bring to the world! Being a finalist in the Frontier Awards among other prestigious brands is a source of great pride and a first step to achieve our plans! Diego dalla Palma Milano is a long-established Italian brand known for its expertise in make-up, skincare and haircare that offers a wide range of 360° personal care products, designed and tested in the laboratory for top performance. The values of Diego dalla Palma Milano have always been elegance, creativity, and the search for beauty in every woman in the world. A unique, singular beauty, not bound by the impositions of the dominant aesthetic. This is exactly what Diego dalla Palma Milano has always wanted to achieve: help every woman to find her own personal beauty, enhancing it with products that are affordable for everyone, and in line with innovations in the cosmetic field, to give every woman the best professional performance. MyToyBoy, much more than just a mascara, was created with this philosophy in mind. With its 4D action, it lengthens, volumises and promotes the natural growth of lashes in just 30 days and lasts up to 24 hours. Volume, size and durability for an assured performance, completely Made in Italy! The precious ingredients in the formulation of MyToyBoy * Self-evaluation test carried out immediately after application of the product on 20 subjects. Percentage of subjects who found a visible improvement of the effect claimed. ** Instrumental test carried out on clean eyelashes with Antera 3D® after 30 days of application on 20 subjects. Average % value of increase.

mascara give extraordinary performance and a WOW effect! The regenerating serum contained inside stimulates ultrafast lash growth. Enriched with 2% SUPERLASH CPX, an active ingredient made of the two key ingredients Biotinyl-GHK Vitamin Matrikine and Provitamin B5, MyToyBoy stimulates lash growth, strengthens lashes and prevents them from falling, while repairing damaged lashes. Your lashes will quickly appear intensified, longer, fuller and stronger. But MyToyBoy mascara is not only unique in its formulation. The eye-catching 17cm long maxi-package in a fiery red silicone with embossed texture makes it the largest mascara on the market. Hard to miss! Big size for big results. Thanks to its innovative formulation we can achieve the following results in just 30 days: 100% 100% 90% 7% more 6% more volume* length* definition* volume** length** MyToyBoy mascara had a great digital resonance generating an important online buzz also thanks to a structured social strategy which, together with the incredible performance of the product, led it to be the best-selling mascara in Italian selective perfumeries in 2020 and 2021 (Source: NPD Beautytrends: Value sales - Selective perfumery (Prestige+Mass) - Total Italy (B&M+E-retail). The digital strategy included a long-term campaign - which began in 2019 and continued in 2020 and 2021 - and saw the involvement of important Italian celebrities and social influencers, who published numerous contents between Instagram posts and Instagram Stories. The campaign was also supported by an important seeding activity that involved over 250 beauty and lifestyle talents, generating over 500 spontaneous Instagram contents that guaranteed enormous visibility, with an overall reach reached by the entire digital campaign of almost 80,000,000 followers. The numerous contents generated online made the most irreverent and sexy mascara on the market popular, highlighting both the technical and professional features and playing on the ironic name, packaging and promises of extraordinary performance!

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Beautyspace

Diego dalla Palma Milano

Mane

Locherber Skincare

Pink Sugar

Paglieri 1876

Teaology

Naturaverde BIO

ARTDECO

Collistar

OnBeauty by Cosmoprof

Bellagio 54/55 Naturaverde BIO 58/59 Teaology

Yuzen

Mediterranea Cosmetics Cover-II-I-IV Moschino

Yuzen 30/31 Astra 38/39 Nouba 44/45 Fila

Nouba

Iceberg

Baralan

Decorté