Graduation Project: Cosmetics & Culture

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Graduation Project

Neha Mann Bachelor of Design NIFT, New Delhi Fashion & Lifestyle Accessories May 2016

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Abstract Product concepts discussed in this report are a culmination of an intesive study of the Cosmetic industry, specialising in Eye makeup tools. The research takes information from trend reports, market study, consumer psychoanalysis and technical know how of applicators and dispensing systems.

Project 1: Tightlining tools depicts concepts for a range of specialised applicators for integrating multiple steps involved in tightlining.

Project 2: Booster Joos is a live brand asset to be presented to clients at the Beautyworld Middle East 2016. It is based on the study of the culture and trends of the MENA region.

Project 3: Ion Applicators is about developing packages that ease/ aid application though the means of topically charging the surface of contact.

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Contents

Acknowledgment Certificate Chapter 1: Introduction to company Services Innovations Consumer Insights Design Validation Application Systems Launches Mascara Expertise Chapter 2: Mascara Study

Introduction to Mascara Anatomy Assembly

Types of applicators

Types of wipers

Chapter 3: MENA Region Introduction Persian Gulf Beauty Aesthetic

Lash Study Chapter 4: Project 1: Booster Joos Design Brief Product Concept Applicator Design

Looks and application Primary Packaging Outer Packaging

Chapter 5 Project 2: MUA Affiliation Design Brief Identification Dalal Aldoub As a Brand Approach Package Concepts Packaging Chapter 6 Project 3: Ion Applicator Introduction Properties Related theories Existing Products Product Concepts Retrospect

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Acknowledgment Through this document, I take the opportunity to sincerely thank every individual who was a part of this experience. I would like to thank NIFT for its reputation as a trusted brand, which makes such collaborations possible.

I would like to thank Ms. Iti Seth,Head of Packaging Innovation at Zen Design Solutions Ltd., for all her guidance and support as my industry mentor. It was due to her pro-activity that I could study and develop the concepts. I thank Mr. Rahul Bose, Smitaa Srivastava and Manisha Kohli for all their feedback and support, as I was handling one project with them each.

I thank Ms. Anshoo rajvanshi, my college mentor for guiding me in compilation of my work and handling my queries with utmost grace and patience.

Zen Design Solutions Limited

TO WHOMSOEVER IT MAY CONCERN

This is to certify that Ms. Neha Mann, student of National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi has successfully completed her graduation project for duration of 23 weeks, in May 2016 wherein she worked on the following projects Project 1: Tightlining tools Concepts for a range of specialised applicators for integrating multiple steps involved in tight lining. Creating a brand for the Persian Gulf, representative of a Makeup artist on Instagram.

Project 2: Booster Joos Creating a mascara brand with mentor guidance for the Team Fit consumer of the MENA region.

Project 3: Ion Applicators Developing packages that ease/aid application though the means of topically charging the surface of contact.

Neha Mann has had her apprenticeship under our guidance . She has been responsible and hard working. We wish her the best in her future endeavours.

Sincerely,

Rahul Bose Chief Innovation Officer

Co-Signed by:

Iti Seth Head of Packaging Innovation Skincare and Devices

Date : 10/05/2016 Place : New Delhi

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Chapter 1 Introduction to company

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Introduction Services Innovation Consumer Insights Design Validation Applicators Launches Mascara Expertise

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Zen Design

Solutions Limited

action verb \’zen dih-zahyn\ Bringing Reality to Innovation.

Zen Design Solutions operates to develop Co-creation and Turnkey opportunities in Cosmetic Packaging, Application & Dispensing Systems. They provide on-demand innovation & executive solutions for Bespoke Products, Packaging and Branding.

Packaging Design | Design Licensing | Brand Rejuvenation

Zen Design Solutions Limited

D e s i g n va lid a tio n

In tegr a ted a p p lic a tio n system s

10 years

60 launches

For m ula d evelo p m en t

40 patents

Paten ted la un ch es

IP Protected Launches Granted Utility Patents Granted Design Patents

S p e c i a lised a p p lic a to r s

N ew J e r s e y . N e w D e lh i . M u mb ai . Hon g Kon g . Toron to Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Services Brand Development Develop a customized formulation paired with a functional applicator and wiping system. Create a brand name and logo. Design artworks and required graphics to articulate ‘look & feel’ of the brand to help develop future collaterals.

Branding Create the visual personality of a brand to have a better connection with the wider user base & be adaptable to different digital. retail and social-media channels.

New Range Development Develop a pre-defined range of beauty packages or tools with a common visual personality to achieve the intended application effect. The product range can be a line extension, a new makeup category or a range covering multiple categories.

Keratin & Derma Application System Develop a customized formulation, identify and coordinate formulation development. Pair it with a custom designed applicator and wiping system to achieve the desired application effect on skin or hair.

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Innovation Formula-driven Positioning the formulation as the nucleus and developing the packaging solution around it to enhance its efficacy, building on technological as well as aesthetic parameters.

Processes Innovation that stems from a set of processes, proprietary or otherwise. The proposed solutions are compatible with existing lines and infrastructure.

Trend Report A comprehensive summary of forthcoming mega trends for a predefined season and their translation for the beauty industry. This acts as the tool for brands to get future-ready with their product portfolios.

Materials New proprietary materials and treatments that boost the performance of the package. Their influence ranges from superior application results to better formulation integrity to enhanced shelf impact.

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Consumer Insights Their designs are tested by regular users to deduce any helpful insights about usage, technique or gestural behaviour. Sample audiences from different ethnicities test the products to ensure it is a universal asset.

Insights | Precision | Ergonomics

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Design Validation Their designs are validated by a panel of Professional Makeup Artists who use expert techniques for application.

adaptive

Professional Gestures | Expert Reviews

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Functional Applicators for Professional Effects Zen develops specialised applicators for the desired effect.

The materials used can induce sensorial experiences using tactile microsurfaces. The appplicators are adaptive and can be responsive. The design process is often based on gestures and the forms are contoured for precise and efficient application.

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Integrated Application Systems Packages are designed to reduce wastage or weight of carrying the products. Hassle free integrated applicators are smart can load up the right amount of product. Being part of the main package they eliminate the risk or losing the applicator or dirtying it.

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Launches Avere Caldo

A path-breaking and edgy mascara package with an enhanced shelf impact. The design rights have been assigned to Revlon Consumer Products Corporation.

Doc

A liquid foundation package that visually communicates the benefits of the formulation, portraying the DNA helix in the bottle and creating a great shelf impact.

Juju

A cute and trendy package for lip & cheek. The travelfriendly pack offers direct application of a creamy domed formula and the overall form resonates with the young millennial.

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Poise Portable loose powder jar with an extendable brush applicator. The brush telescopes to a full size for professional application results and retracts for storage

Dual palette compact with patented structure provides visibility for all the color palettes in a multi-layered set up. The structure creates shelf impact showing color and providing application cues to the user.

Cleo

Bite Me

A new age package for the experimental millennial. Presents dual formulations, for multiple application effects.

A unique patented, plush-feel lip applicator designed to create perfectly defined lip contours while giving a smooth and even finish.

Mt. Lushmore

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Camouflage The patented dual application package holds 2 applicators. A slim nozzle for spot coverage and a flocked blending head for concealing large areas.

Nuovo Glow

A Premium, heavy-walled compact that showcases all its content on the shelf. Product color is visible from one side and the specialized applicator can be seen from the other.

Zero gravity lash application system is designed to achieve the longest and fullest lashes. The patented Brush with 2 distinct application zones delivers dramatic Volume and Length.

Applep

A fun and clever package that stands out on the shelf and creates brand recall. Anytime, anywhere application with the unique flip cap.

Vacuum

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Stuart

Developed as part of the revamped Almay product line, the eye palette is smartly designed to provide application cues to the user as well as hold an applicator.

Patented multi-layered compact with a dramatic shelf appeal. The unique top layer is a canvas showcasing a graffiti style 3D deco. The design allows all palettes to be visible in the closed compact and adds to the visual impact of the graffiti art

Love Me

The dynamic dual function brush provides dramatic application to the lashes. The patented brush has 2 settings – one for high definition and curling and another to achieve 3X volume and drama.

Wondertone

Eldora

A mini palette with patented structure that allows color show opportunities and provides visual application cues to the user.

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Mascara Expertise Lash Styling Upcoming launch with

They empower brands to launch market winners with a global appeal, tailored for high performance in new and established markets.

Our think tank has over 10 years of experience in working with top global brands like MAC, L’Oreal, Revlon, Avon etc. to develop their mascara portfolios.

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Upcoming launches

Launched globally The experts at Zen understand ethnic diversity in lashes, cultural nuances of makeup habits and anatomical differences in lash type for each ethnicity. Our creative team has worked with product development partners in Europe to develop special formulations for different types of lashes. These are coupled with functional applicators to give spectacular application results for users spread over North America, Europe, South America, Middle East and Asian countries.

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Chapter 2 Mascara Study

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Introduction Anatomy Assembly Types of applicators Types of wipers

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Mascara A cosmetic applied to enhance the appearance of eye lashes.

What does it do?

Volume & Curl

Varied combing

Lift & Definition

Length & Volume

Length & Definition

Volume & Definition

Volume

It gives the user a youthful appearance which is believed to correlate to beauty in women.

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Secondary packaging

Primary packaging

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Anatomy Applicator Applies formulation and performs the functions claimed by the package.

Types: Wire brush Moulded brush

Wand/Rod Defines the flexibility of the applicator.

Joins brush to the cap.

Material: Polyoxymethylene (POM) An engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction and excellent dimensional stability.

Cap Ensuring that the package is air tight.

Material: ABS/Alluminium shell

Vial Holds the formulation where the applicator is dipped in.

The neck of the vial is fitted with a wiper which wipes off excess bulk when the applicator is taken out for use.

Materials: PP/ABS

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Bulk/Formulation Formulations can vary in consistent, contents, colour, etc. to acquire required texture for the package.

Ingredients: Carbon black or iron oxide pigment to darken lashes, a polymer to form a film that coats lashes; a preservative; and thickening waxes or oils such as lanolin, mineral oil, paraffin, petrolatum, castor oil, carnauba wax, and candelilla wax

Branding Identity of the brand and other information related to use, production, etc.

Processes: Screen printing/foiling

Bulk/formulation Applicator

Wand/Rod

Branding

Vial

Cap Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Assembly The cap has a rod fitted in to it, on which the applicator is staked. The applicator has many different forms and these forms serve different functions. The vial holds the formulation and a wiper is fitted at the neck of the vial. The applicator is dipped in the vial and on removal, has to go through the wiper, whose inner diameter controls the amount of product on the applicator.

Cap

Mascara Applicator Rod

Wiper

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Zen has patented smart shape mrophing wipers, that know how much product to take and from where. Apart from keeping the rod clean, these wipers adress different applications techniques and help clean the brush of excess product.

Applicator

Tines

Vial

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Wiper A rubber wiper is fitted at the neck of the vial to control the amount of formulation the applicator carries.

Cleans the rod.

Screw top vials are kept air tight by addition of a rubber wiper.

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Types of Applicators Wire Brush

Nylon fibers twisted in varying densities in a U shaped Stainless Steel Wire to form a helical formation.

Has a uniform cross section unless manually post processed.

Fibers (Nylon)

Pitch (distance between fibers)

Tines (TPE)

Core

Moulded Brush

Injection moulded TPE brush.

Can have non-uniform cross sections. varied function due to different placement of tines.

Reservoir (bare space between tines)

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Chapter 3 New Market Segment

Zen Design Solutions Limited

MENA Region Beauty Aesthetic Lash Study Opportunities

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Middle East & North Africa Region The term MENA is an English-language acronym referring to the Middle East and North Africa region. The term MENA covers an extensive region, extending from Morocco to Iran, including all Middle Eastern and Maghreb countries. The term is roughly synonymous with the term the Greater Middle East. With a population of 355 million, the MENA region came into the spring with multiple strengths, including a young and educated population, similarity in religious belliefs and economic resilience.

Euromonitor Analysts pinpoint that this region has not let up growth, despite the slight global slowdown of the beauty and personal care market in 2015 from 5.8% to 5.4%.

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Algeria Bahrain Djibouti Egypt Iran Iraq Israel Jordan Kuwait Lebanon Libya Malta Morocco Oman Qatar Saudi Arabia Syria Tunisia United Arab Emirates West Bank and Gaza Yemen

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Lash Study On studying several make up artists and local models, actors, other media personalities, the predominent features of a Persian woman are as follows: Eye shape: Almond Eye colour: Brown to hazel Hair colour: Brown to dark brown Lash ratio: Top:Bottom - 3:1 The Ideal or aspirational look on the other hand has the following demands: Eye shape: Almond Eye colour: Exotic colours like Emerald Green, Blue or Gray Lash Ratio: Top:Bottom - 5:2

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Predominent eye colour Predominent eye shape

Ideal lash length

Ideal eye shape

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Beauty Aesthetic Exploring the beauty aesthetics in Dubai, which is the beauty capital, major similarities were found in the broader region called the Persian Gulf. Apart from trends, eye colours, shapes and lash ratios were found to be common.

Metallic accents with smoky shadows

Contouring and heavy brows

metallic accent with defi

fined lashes

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Elongation of the eye

Bold lip with smoky eyes & false lashes Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Persian Gulf The Persian Gulf of the MENA Region are the seven Arab states which border the Persian Gulf. The inhabitants of Eastern Arabia’s Gulf coast share similar cultures and music styles such as fijiri, sawt and liwa. The most noticeable cultural trait of Eastern Arabia’s Gulf Arabs is their orientation and focus towards the sea.[9] Maritime-focused life in the small Persian Gulf Arab states has resulted in a sea-oriented society where livelihoods have traditionally been earned in marine industries.

Gulf Arabic is spoken in Eastern Arabia’s Gulf coast. Only Arabs of Eastern Arabia speak Gulf Arabic. Most Saudis do not speak Gulf Arabic because most Saudis do not live in Eastern Arabia. There are approximately 200,000 Gulf Arabic speakers in Saudi Arabia, mostly in the coastal eastern region. Gulf Arabic is distinct from Saudi Arabic.

Before the GCC was formed in 1981, the term “Khaleeji” was solely used to refer to the inhabitants of Eastern Arabia. Historically, “Khaleeji” meant descendants of Ichthyophagi, the coast-dwelling “fish eaters”.

The UAE has the highest per capita spend in beauty and personal care in the Middle East and North Africa (MENA). Kuwait and Saudi Arabia follow closely.

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Opportunities Macro Consumer Trends What are macro trends?

Macro trends are global trends that may have a significant future impact on the sectors of activity of interest to us.

What are some macro consumer trends?

Yuppies: Young Urban Professionals Travellers: Simplicity searchers, reward hunters, obligation meeters, cultural purists, ethical travellers, social capital seekers.

Team fit: Extremists and Live Fits.

Design Brief Create a package for the Team Fit: Live Fit consumer group for colour cosmetics for the eye.

Consumer Group: Live Fit Demographic: Persian Gulf

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Make up artist affiliation Design Brief Create a brand for the Persian Gulf for mascara.

The brand will be representative and in collaboration with one of the upcoming make-up artist on Instagram in Persian Gulf.

Demographic: Persian Gulf

Process: Study relevance of Instagram in the region and international market.

Identification of Makeup Artists across the Persian Gulf through Instagram.

SWOT Analysis of MUAs for shortlisting popular choice feasable artist.

Brand conception around the final MUA’s style.

Defining final application and look.

Designing the Applicator.

Defining bulk requirement.

Designing Primary, secondary packaging.

Branding.

Promotion through social media.

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Chapter 4 Project 1: Booster Joos

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Consumer Study Product Concept Applicator Formulation Primary Packaging Secondary Packaging Website Design Brochure, Poster

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Design Brief Create a package for the Team Fit: Live Fit consumer group for colour cosmetics for the eye.

Consumer Group: Live Fit Demographic: Persian Gulf

Project Deliverables Consumer Study Product Concept Defining desired looks Applicator Design Branding Primary Packaging Bulk Requirement Secondary Packaging Brand Website Brochure Poster Photoshoot for final looks Brand Presentation

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Follow a lifestyle....not just a workout

Live Fit

between ryday zones

Follow a lifestyle....not just a workout

Merging differences between fitness zones and everyday zones

Fo

Live Fit

Team Fit

xtremists

M.E.N.A. R

Consumer Group Booster Joos Mascara

Paint

Merging differences between fitness zones and everyday zones

Fo Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Product Concept A classic black shade of Mascara with half the formulation replaced

by Aloe Vera enriched Primer.

Eliminates the added step of priming the lashes Enriched with Aloe Vera, is a healthy alternative to other cosmetics.

Adds dramatic volume and definition to meet the beauty aesthetic of the consumer group.

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Three of the popular spring colours, as coloured mascaras enriched in Vitamins for creating new looks with the whole package.

Bold new colours to create harmony or contrast with different eye colours.

Small applicator for precise application.

Rich pigments for bold playful looks.

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Mascara & Primer A healthy way to volumise, lengthen and curl your lashes everyday. It is packed with antibacterial filaments, containing silver zeolite.

bLK

C

R R U

T AN

Curl Length Vo lume Pr otect H eal

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Paint The Vitamin enriched formula is a welcoming change from your classic black shade.

m

R.

L KA

bLU

BE

E

Y RR

Emerald Green

Royal Blue

Purple

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Mascara Applicator

The slim brush is designed with reservoirs to pick up more product for extreme volume. It is packed with antibacterial filaments, containing inorganic silver zeolite.

Zen Design Solutions Limited

4.14

Technical Drawing

R 4.93

4 mm

27

8

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Paint Applicator

Slit wiper for heavy loading even on small brush.

The dwarf brush is designed with a slight taper to pick up more product towards the tip for rich pigmetation. The wiper has been slit so less bulk is wiped off the brush.

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Technical Drawing

8

4

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Creative Application Mr. Kale brings the spring, with lush forest green lashes that make an understated impact. Intensifying your browns and brightening your hazels, it compliments all eye colours.

The Chosen Few

The fall go-to, Yum Plum is for days when you feel tough yet chic. The smokey dark hue makes a bold statement for both day and night looks.

All Access

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The drama-boosting Blu Berry keeps your eyes in the spotlight, making you look equal parts fun & bold. It provides a cool contrast & warmth to brown eyes, creating the illusion of whiter eyes.

Dip Dye

The classic black shade intensifies all eye colours and is an everyday accessory for a wide eyed, awake and alive look.

Deep Rooted Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Primary Packaging Process: Screen Priting on clear vials and matter white cap.

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Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Secondary Packaging

Reference images, takeaway concept

Concept 1:

Artisan Lash & Line

L A S H

SUPER FOOD

bLU

BE

RR

Y

Goodness in a tube!

C M Y K

Artisan

Lash

&

Line

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Concept 2:

Concept 3:

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Concept 4:

Concept 5:

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Inner tray

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Chapter 5 Project 2: MUA Affiliation

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Design Brief Identification Dalal Aldoub Timeline As a brand Approach Package Concept Final application Tightlining concepts Visual Language

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Design Brief Create a brand for eye makeup: representative and in collaboration with the shortlisted make-up artist on Instagram in Persian Gulf.

Viral marketing of the package designed to reach the makeup artist for her to approach the team to endorse the product.

Demographic: Persian Gulf

Project Deliverables Shortlisting Artist Product Concept Defining desired looks Applicator Design Branding Primary Packaging Bulk Requirement Secondary Packaging Brand Website Brochure Poster Photoshoot for final looks Brand Presentation

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Identification

62K

300K

1.2M

90K

1.6M

177K

1.8M

8M Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Shortlisting Artists 1

2

Make up artists + Instagram + Persian Gulf + Increasing popularity

SWOT Analysis of each artist

Why are they popular?

What products are they endorsing?

Instagram time-line As a brand Brand USP

Zen Design Solutions Limited

62K

Nura Afia 300K

90K

Dalal Aldoub 1.6M

177K

Sondos Alqattan 1.8M

1.6M

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Dalal Aldoub

Zen Design Solutions Limited

1.4m followers Beauty & Fashion Blogger Dalal Al-Doub was born in Kuwait in 1986.

What is in her feed?

Hijab tutorials Styling tips Where to shop Makeup tips Sharing experiences Product reviews Food ventures

2000s

Watched YouTube tutorials Practiced on friends & relatives

2012

Beauty Blog www.dalalid.com

2013

Youtube Vlog www.youtube.com/user/dalalid 30.6k followers

2015

Arabic & English

Only arabic No subtitles Comments disabled

#8 most popular in Kuwait Conducts Sephora Day Out

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

As A Brand

What her followers say: Expert Aspirational

Self projection: Humble

Inspirational

Uplifting

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Approach Studying the number of products she uses The kind of products she prefers: multipurpose, travel friendly etc.

Identifying unique techniques or applications.

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Package Concepts Studying her lifestyle and drawing inferences about prefered packages.

Defining technical details like application, applicator, bulk, etc.

Concept 1 Indulge & Rehab Dalal indulges in luxuries irrespective of their health benefits but also rehabilitates all damage thus caused by counter practices.

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Lash Care Routine Taking cues from skin care routines, a lash care routine. All steps are not advisable as the work area is very small.

Night Cream Day Cream Primer Foundation+Powder+Concealer Bronzer+Hightlighter+Blush Blotting Paper Makeup Remover

Rehab(at rest) Rehab Precaution Indulge Indulge Touch-up Rehab

Sleep-in serum Day Cream Primer Mascara Curling+Liner+Shadow+Lashpaint Renew mascara Makeup Remover

indulge & rehab

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Brush Value Try & Buy Customised sets Make your own pallete

Fanning out Wide eyed Lower lash colour Fiber lash Opaque pigments Lightweight volumised

brush value

@dalalaldoub

khaleeji & fierce

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

The Dalal Eye

@dalalid

@dalalid

Lash Dubai

Hind | Mariam

House of Lashes

@dalalid

Fanned-out | Volume | Length

@dalalid

POP OF COLOUR GLITTER DETAIL FANNED-OUT VOLUME CURL

@dalalid

Benefit RL

Bourjois Volume 1 seconde

Benefit TR

Kiko No. 7

Gucci Blue Mascara / Iconic Ottanio

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Studying her preferences of eye cosmetics, false lashes and everyday looks, a pallette of do’s and don’ts was defined, for The Dalal Eye.

WOULD NOT PICK

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Final Application Lower Lash + Tightline + Dispersion on upper lash Creating harmony/ contrast with the eye

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Tightlining

Filling lash roots for a fuller appearance of the lashes

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Tightlining Techniques Existing techniques involve multiple steps Opportunity: Specialised tools to reduce number of steps and eliminiation of make shift products.

Propose a new trend through a new applicator.

Minimise number of steps in achieving a look.

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Work Area Eyelashes Lash line Waterline

Action

Comb + Fill lash root

Comb + Fill water line

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Concept 1 Post Mascara Extra effort | Final definition | Specialised tool

Final Concept

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Explorations

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Angled edges reach the lash roots

Molded tines distribute product

Soft bristles deposit product

Wire Brush

Moulded walls

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Technical Drawing

20 4 2

35

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Concept 2 False Lash Package Conceal Lash Glue | Recover mascara step | More control

Undercut to lock both parts

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Moulded comb to disperse bulk through lashes

Flocking to blend bulk in the lash line

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Wiper Interaction

More product on precision tip

Wipes only taller tines

Wipes the flocked part completely

Incomplete wiping of the flocked part

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Concept 3 Detailer Pen Frontal application | Independent sections | Topical Application

Synthetic brush for filling lash roots

Flat cross section for guided gestures

Molded comb initially concealed

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Packaging Taking cues from her personal style, the primary packaging will have accent of colours with a stylised persian aesthetic on a subtle environment.

COLOUR THEORY

S I G N AT U R E LO O K

Zen Design Solutions Limited @dalalid

Soft pastel Hijaab | Earthy Tones | Colour accents | Metal details

@dalalid

@dalalid

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Chapter 6 Project 3: Ion Applicator

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Design Brief What are Ions?

Properties Existing Application Inferences Static Energy Triboelectirc Series Electrodermal Activity Product Concepts

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Design Brief Develop a range of packages that use Ions for makeup application.

Project Deliverables What are Ions?

Properties Existing Application Inferences Static Energy Triboelectirc Series Electrodermal Activity Product Concepts

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Ion An atom or molecule with a net electric charge due to the loss or gain of one or more valence electrons.

1 atom the smallest particle of a chemical element that can exist. molecule a group of atoms bonded together, representing the smallest fundamental unit of a chemical compound that can take part in a chemical reaction. electric charge the quantity of unbalanced electricity in a body valence electrons the electrons in the outer shell of an atom. The valence electrons are the ones involved in forming bonds to 1 adjacent atoms

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Ionisation The process by which an atom or a molecule acquires a negative or positive charge by gaining or losing electrons to form ions, often in conjunction with other chemical changes.

Cation If a neutral atom loses one or more electrons and it has a net positive charge.

Anion If a neutral atom gains one or more electrons and it has a net negative charge.

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Ionic Interaction attracted to opposite electric charges repelled by like charges when moving, travel in trajectories that are deflected by a magnetic field

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

1 Iontophoresis Iontophoresis only works on ions – water that have a positive or negative char the general principle that like char charges attract.

-soluble substances ge – and is based on ges repel and unlike

Application By using a direct curr ent, an ion can be ‘pushed’ into the skin if the electrode (the active or working electr ode) being used has the same char ge as the ion in question.

Cataphoresis when the positiv electrode is the working electrode pushes cations.

Anaphoresis e , it

when the negative electrode is used, it pushes anions.

Opportunity CREATING A DESIRED CHARGE/INERTNESS ON THE SKIN

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1

As a direct current is used, another electrode (the passive, indifferent or return electrode) is required to complete the electrical circuit

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

2 Desincrustation The chief characteristics of the method consist in breaking up, reducing and eliminating all the impurities (waste matter, dust, toxins, crystallisations, etc.) which block up the follicles. The immediate result is—increased blood circulation and, gradually, recolouring of the epidermis.

Application Desincrustation relies on the fact that when a direct current is used, an alkali (sodium hydroxide) is produced at the negative electrode and an acid (hydrochloric acid) is generated at the positive electrode.

NaOH + sweat = soaping solution Dilates the pores for removal of excess deposits in the follicles.

Opportunity INCREASED CONTROL OVER THE SEBACEOUS GLAND

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2

Ball electrodes in Guinot’s Cathiodermie treatment

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

3 Galvanic Stimulation Tricking living cells into healing themselves through slight injuries caused by stimulation of ions in skin.

These stimulations provide increased energy to repair cells.

Application A roller with dual active electrodes, passing direct current over the skin to stimulate cells by deliberately injuring them. This increases blood circulation and repair mechanism of the cells helps improve the texture of skin.

Serums Vitamin K: Stimulated blood flow Vitamin C: Damage protection from sun exposure Stimulates collagen Improves elasticity & texture of skin

Opportunity TOPICAL DEPOSITION/REMOVAL OF CHARGE

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3

Beauty Pro Ion Galvanic Skin Therapy

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

SK 2 Airtouch Foundation Pitera, a patented formulation, is positively charged and is hence attracted to the negative charge on skin. It is less attracted to hair or clothes which are dry and hence have no significant electric charge.

INFORMATION ON CO EXISTENCE OF CHARGED & UNCHARGED SURFACES

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Positive particles spread uniformly on skin surface.

Pitera contains moisturising ingredients similar to Natural moistursing factors(NMF) of skin like amino acids, chlorides, phosphates, etc.

Uniform finish Evenly reflect light Breathing space

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Braun Satin Hair Brush BALANCE REPELLING IONS WITH A COUNTER CHARGE TO NULLIFY THE STATIC ENERGY

Ions work like a conditioner – when you press the button on the hairbrush (Ion Jet) it releases millions of active Ions that create a ‘halo‘ around your hair to tame frizz and flyaway hairs for touchable smoothness and healthy shine.

Opportunity RUBBING TWO SURFACES TO PASS ON CHARGE TO CREATE/REMOVE STATIC ENERGY. STATIC ENERGY

TRIBOELECTRIC SERIES

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Goody, Gelous Grip, Ionic Frizz-Free Styling Round Brush

~$1000

Ceramic hairbrushes emit negative ions, which counteracts positive ions in hair, eliminating static electricity

~$250-700

Olivia Garden Ceramic +Ion Thermal Brush

~$800

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Static Energy Static electricity is an imbalance of electric charges within or on the surface of a material.

If you rub things together, electrons can move from one atom to another. Some atoms get extra electrons. They have a negative charge. Other atoms lose electrons. They have a positive charge. When charges are separated like this, it is called static electricity.

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Electrodermal Activity The property of the human body that causes continuous variation in the electrical characteristics of the skin

skin conductance galvanic skin response electrodermal response psychogalvanic reflex skin conductance response skin conductance level Skin resistance varies with the state of sweat glands in the skin.

Sweating is controlled by the sympathetic nervous system.

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Physiological Basis A painful stimulus such as a pinprick elicits a sympathetic response by the sweat glands, increasing secretion. Although this increase is generally very small, sweat contains water and electrolytes, which increase electrical conductivity, thus lowering the electrical resistance of the skin.

Autonomic nervous system Sympathetic

Para sympathetic (peripheral)

Fight or flight

Rest & Digest

Human body chooses fight when the stimulus is perceived harmless (of low intensity)

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Inference EXTERNAL STIMULUS CAN BE INTRODUCED to alter secretion by sweat glands to create topical static energy to charge/inert a surface to soften/tense pores for deeper/surfacial penetration resp.

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Improved Dexterity Reducing precision of application

#1 Eyeliner Opportunities Determining the charge of the eyeliner formulation Inerting the non-work area

Applying same charge

Bigger strokes, more surface area Threats Consumer is still responsible for drawing Preparatory task is visibly inefficient #2 Eyebrows Opportunities Dual surfaces- different charge Conductive gel that catches only to one surface Formulation of opposite charge spray freely Threats Cannot outdraw on both surfaces Cannot change shape

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Topographical Application Customised application to enhance individual bone structure

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Improve Payoff Temporary charge on applicator to increase payoff of formulation.

#1 Conducting Plate Swirling the brush on a conducting surface before collecting formulation Collects exact amount of formulation which is ideal for application Better pigmentation in every stroke Threats The consumer might want to vary payoff for different looks How long does the charge stay after rubbing for how long

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016

Retrospect Through the course of this internship, I learnt in depth about the niche market and product design details of cosmetics. I have gained detailed knowloedge of Mascara nd its working. Skills like storyboarding, inspiration, consumer study have been honed through the work spent in this industry.

Booster Joos, being a live project taught me to work with vendors following given deadlines and urgnecy of delivearbles when wokring in a dependent environment. As a turnkney project it let me study and learn about all fields involved in creating a brand asset, like product design, conceptualisation, interaction design, photography and videography.

The second project, taught me to think beyond production contraints and create packages specific to a niche consumer yet aspirational by a larger, more universal market. I also explored different media for communication of my concepts like digital drawings, hand sketches and 3d models. The importance of producing Proof of principals was felt thoroughly in this project, to pitch my ideas to the mentors. The conviction of a POP can never be felt through the line drawing of the concept.

The project about Ion Applicators helped me explore in depth about science and its application in the new emerging field of skincare and beauty. Although, as theoretical concepts, my concepts were an attempt to develop simplified use of technology on a smaller and much easier scale, to produce for the masses a product which is advance, but not complicated.

With the mentors at my workplace and at college, I have learnt more through this internship than I had personally expected to gain.

Zen Design Solutions Limited

Neha Mann | Graduation Project 2015-2016