INDUSTRY ORIENTATION PROGRAMME
Industry Orientation Programme | Neha Mann | F&LA V
Copyright Š2014 Student document publication, meant for private circulation only. All rights reserved. NIFT All rights reserved. ADIDAS Fashion and Lifestyle Accessory Design, 2012-2016 NIFT, New Delhi. No part of this document will be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, xerography and videography recording, without written permission from the publisher, NehaMann and NIFT. Industry Orientation Programme | Neha Mann | F&LA V
OBJECTIVE To understand the manufacturing environment
Concept domain • Understanding industry functions • Understanding material sourcing, fabrication & costing • Understanding Synergy
Knowledge domain • Observing the production line • Design conception
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT I would like to express my deepest appreciation to all those who provided me the possibility to complete this report. A special gratitude to our previous C.C. Mr. K Murugan whose contribution in stimulating suggestions and encouragement, helped me to coordinate my project. Most importantly, I am very grateful to Mr. Atul Arora, Mr. Gulshan, Ms. Manorama Wadhwa and Mr. Amrish for facilitating the process of my study at Adidas. They have been extremely helpful in providing all the required information for this
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study. Furthermore I would also like to acknowledge with much appreciation the crucial role of all the teachers, who taught me the various tools and techniques required in the fullfillment of this study. It was through their previous teachings and guidance that I could apply the learning of several subjects in compiling this document.
CONTENTS Chapter 1 Introduction
Chapter 2 Production
About Adidas History Missions & Values Departments Product Categories Competitors Adidas In India Heirarchy of Organisation
Production Units Mochiko India Pvt. Ltd. Demographic analysis Heirachy Of Organisation Sourcing Product Details Exploded View Unit2: Preparation Welding Screen Printing Unit 1: Assembly Line Cutting Assembly of Upper Unit 3: Assembly Line for closing Packaging UV Assembly Line Production Quality Quality Assessment System Feedback System
Chapter 3 Design Process
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Chapter 1 Introduction
Industry Orientation Programme | Neha Mann | F&LA V
ABOUT ADIDAS Adidas is a German multinational corporation that designs and manufactures sports shoes, clothing and accessories based in Herzogenaurach, Bavaria, Germany. It is the holding company for the Adidas Group, which consists of the Reebok sportswear company, TaylorMade-Adidas golf company (including Ashworth), Rockport, and 9.1% of FC Bayern Munich
Adidas was originally named “Gebrüder Dassler Schuhfabrik” and was a partnership between brothers Adolf and Rudolf Dassler before they parted ways. Adidas is the largest sportswear manufacturer in Germany and Europe and the second biggest sportswear manufacturer in the world, after Nike.
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1949 Adidas was registered 1954 First lightweight football boot 1967 First piece of apparel
1993 New CEO-Robert Louis Dreyfus 1994 Growth and expansion 6 Industry Orientation Programme | Neha Mann | F&LA V
continues
1972 Trefoil logo presented in 1970 1968 First football Building relationships
2000s New partnerships
German Olympics
2004 Most memorable marketing campaign
2006 Adidas acquired Ree
1975 Becoming a multi sport specialist
1978 Death of Adi Dassler
1986 1984 Fit computer in shoes Merge of art and sports
2011 Brought together sport, street and style-all in
ebok
2009 Acquired Golf equipment companies
1987 End of family business
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MISSIONS AND VALUES Mission
Values
They are innovation and design leaders who seek to help athletes of all skill levels achieve peak performance with every product they bring to market.
Performance Sport is the foundation for all they do and executional excellence is a core value of their group.
They are consumer focused and therefore they continuously improve the quality, look, feel, and image of their products and their organizational structures to match and exceed consumer expectations and to provide them with the highest value.
Passion Passion is at the heart of their company. They are continuously moving forward, innovating, and improving.
They are a global organization that is socially and environmentally responsible, that embraces creativity and diversity, and is financially rewarding for their employees and shareholders. They are dedicated to consistently delivering outstanding financial results.
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Integrity They are honest, open, ethical, and fair. People trust them to adhere to our word. Diversity They know it takes people with different ideas, strengths, interests, and cultural backgrounds to make their company succeed. They encourage healthy debate and differences of opinion.
PURE PERFORMER
ATHLETIC CLASSIC
SPORTS
SPORT INSPIRED
STYLE SETTER
CLASSIC
PERFORMANCE
COMPETITIVE SPORTS
STYLE ADOPTER
ORIGINAL
ACTIVE SPORTS
CASUAL SPORTS
NEO
SPORTS FASHION
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PRODUCT CATEGORIES
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Apparel Footwear Sports Gadgets Eyewear Watches Bags Sports Equipment
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Industry Orientation Programme | Neha Mann | F&LA V
MAJOR COMPETITORS Nike, Inc. is an American multinational corporation that is engaged in the design, development, manufacturing and worldwide marketing and selling of footwear, apparel, equipment, accessories and services. The company is headquartered near Beaverton, Oregon, in the Portland metropolitan area.
Callaway Golf Company is an American global sporting goods company that designs, manufactures, markets and sells golf equipment, golf accessories and golf lifestylerelated products in more than 70 countries worldwide. The American company, based in Carlsbad, California, is the world’s largest maker of golf clubs.
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ADIDAS IN INDIA In India, Adidas headquarters are located in Gurgaon Sector 45 with three departments distributed on different storeys. The three departments are: Reebok India Company Adidas India Company Adidas Technical Services Another active body is the Supply Chain Management .
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Any order placed at Adidas India Company or Reebok India Company is forwarded to ATS through the SCM. ATS then plans thee distribution of work to be assigned to their factories based on their capacity and efficiency. Adidas Technical Services has a staff of 28 employees with a male to female ratio of 9:1.
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HEIRARCHY OF ORGANISATION Country Manager Wojcichi Kur (Indonesia) Senior Operation Manager Sanjay Sinha Operation Managers Vivek Mohan
Manoraama Wadhwa Directors Gulshan
Saurabh
Team Leaders Planning
Development Managers Asst. Managers
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Production
Chapter 2 Production
Industry Orientation Programme | Neha Mann | F&LA V
PRODUCTION UNITS Adidas has seven factories in India Lakhani: Faridabad and Haridwar Alpine: Faridabad and Babdi SR: Himachal Pradesh DIamond: Delhi Mochiko: Noida and Haridwar Goodwill: Haridwar Saroop: Jalandhar and Oona
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MOCHIKO SHOES PVT. LTD. Located at the Dehradun-Haridwar Highway this 5000 sq. feet factory is the only Adidas factory in India where end to end manufacturing takes place. It is divided into four units: Unit 1: Assembly Line (upper)/ Quality Control/ Stitching Unit 2: Preparation Unit 3: Assembly Line (closing) Unit 4: Puma
Efficiency Assembly Line: 6000 pairs/ day (x2 lines) Stitching: 1000 pairs/ day (x8 lines) The various departments at Mochiko include Assembly, Stitching, Planning, Packing, House Keeping, Stock fitting, Quality Assessment, UV line, Human Resource, Finance and Design.
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DEMOGRAPHICS A work force of 12000 people work with planned synchrony for an 8 hours shift each day at Mochiko Shoes Pvt. Ltd. Staff Total: 140 Male: 120 Female: 20
Workers Total : 688 (Unit 1+3) Male: 461 Female: 227 Localites from Resham Manjri, Chidderwala, Doiwala and Bhanewala perform specialised tasks and together maintain flow of work in Assembly lines. Unit wise segregation Stitching: 38 people/line Cutting: 51 Assembly: 100 people/line UV line: 4 Stock fitting: 20 Preparation: 55
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HEIRARCHY OF ORGANISATION Managing Director
Directors
CFO-Head Office Mr. Taneja
Noida Anoop Rawat
Development & Quality Anil Sahu
Operation Head (Production/ Factory Head) Sam
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SOURCING Raw materials
Components
PU foam San Fang, China Jasch, India
Socks Narayan, India
Mesh TexNnets, India Yee Chan, China TPU San Fang, China
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Counter stifner Eclipse, Imported Eye Stay Pins to planes, Diason Threads Vardhman, India
RUNNING SHOES • Flexible sole • Appropriate tread for the function • Ability to absorb impact
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PRODUCT DETAILS Heel Tab Vamp Heel Counter Toe Cap
Outsole
Midsole Wedge
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Sole
Flex Grooves
Flex Grooves
Tongue
Eyelets Lace Eyestay
Shank
Midsole
Outsole
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UNIT 2: PREPARATION Screen Printing
1
2
3
Flat template of the required component- substrate with etched pattern
Accurate placement of the screen frame with a layer of emulsion
Cutouts placed in marked positions
Using the squeegee to press the emulsion into the etched surface
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Final screen printed component To be left for drying for 3-4 seconds
Sequence Operation of Welding
1 Material: TPU Gauge: 0.5mm Model Name : Turbo Track
2
Wiping the TPU with Primer
Peeling: 1.A bottom layer of realease paper 2.Zyro 3.Plastic sheet(to resist discoloration) 4.Plain 0.3-1.2mm TPU
Embossing on TPU Time: 2 seconds Current: 0.4-0.5 AMP Air Pressure: 50-60 MPA
Welding: Time: 2 seconds Current: 0.4-0.5 AMP Air Pressure: 50-60 MPA
3 Pattern welded on flat upper
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Stencil Press Industry Orientation Programme | Neha Mann | F&LA V
UNIT 3: CUTTING Cutting Operations Socks Toe Cap Counter Component Scibing Machinery Swing Arm Machine: Fixed die to be swung and placed while constantly dispacing sheet Scibing Machine: To scibe edges for uniform width Stencil Press (1): Manually placing stencil to cut pattern through long flowing rolls. Patterns are interlocked for maximum utilisation of resources. Setup Cost: 70 lakhs
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Component Storage Industry Orientation Programme | Neha Mann | F&LA V
ASSEMBLY LINE: UPPER 100 people | Setup Cost: 1 crore
1
2
3
Toe component Material: Polyurethane (PU)
Tongue Material: Mesh
Flat template for upper(pre treated) Material: Mesh
Operation:Fusing Tuflex to stifen PU
Operation:Attaching the patch of details on the inside of tongue
Operation:Glueing the eyestay component
Machine: Fusing Machine, swing mechanism
Machine: Sewing Machine
Manual, rubber based adhevise
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4
5 Material: Cosmo Operation: Glueing the cosmo component for reinforcement of eye stay Manual, rubber based adhevise
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6 Operation: Stitching of eye stay and cosmo component
Toe Cap (pre treated) Material: PU
Machine: Sewing Machine
Operation: Attaching the toe cap Machine: Sewing Machine
7
8 Operations: 1. Seaming 2. Hammering (to flatten) Manual, iron pestle.
9 Operations: 1.Turning the shoe inside out 2. STretching it to check seaming Manual.
Collar Material: Mesh Operation: Collar reinforcement Machine: Sewing Machine
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10 Counter(Pre moulded- ankle) Material: Impregnated fabric, film, leather board Operation: Glueing the counter component Manual, rubber based adhesive
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11
12 Operation: Trimming the edges for refinement
Collar form Material: Foam
Machine: Trimming Machine
Operation: Inserting the collar form for cushioning Manual
13 Design element Material: PU Operation: Glueing design elements
14
15
Operation: Folding the lining
Holes for laces
Manual
Machine: Punching machine
Machine: Hot melt adhesive roller
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16
17
18
Tongue (pre treated) Material: Mesh
Lacing
Upper ready for closing in Unit 3
Operations: 1. Clamping 2. Lacing (criss cross, loose)
Total time: 1671 sec/ pair (avg)
Operation: Stitching the tongue component to the upper Machine: Sewing Machine
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EXPLODED VIEW
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ASSEMBLY LINE: CLOSING 100 people | Setup Cost: 1 crore
1
2
3
Counter Moulding
Machine: Strobel machine
Operation: Hot and Cold Forging Temperature: Hot: 110 to120 C Cold: -5 to -10 C First hot, then cold
Stitches zig zag, specialised for stitching strobels
Hot forging softens the materials Cold forging sets its form
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Operation: Closing the shoe by strobel attachment Precautions: 1. Checking size of upper and strobel 2. Match notches 3.Stitch length: 6mm
4
5 The shoe begins to get a better form after strobel attachment
6 Machine: Steamer
Machine: Heat setting machine
Operation: 1. Treating with steam to loosen the shoe 2. Mounting on last
Operation: Setting the shoe on the last
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7 8
9
Sole spotting Operation: Placing the sole Precautions: 1. Checking left and right 2. Checking sizes
Operation: Marking the points of joining in the sole Machine: Swing machine, twists the shoe to mark on all sides Precautions: 1. Auto vanishing pens are used 2. White gloves used for white uppers
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Wiping upper while wearing poly gloves.
10
11
Upper Priming
Cement Drying Chamber
Operation: Applying primer on upper within the previously marked lines
Temperature: 60-65 C Time: 2-3 minutes
Precautions: 1. Pot should be covered when not in use 2. Brushes should be rotated every hour
12 Manually pressing sole to the upper till it is fixed.
Operation: Setting the Primer on upper and cement on sole for facilitating joining them.
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14 Lasting- delasting machine
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13
16
Socks arrangement Material: EVA with laminated cloth Machine: Hot melt adhesive roller
17
18
Socks putting
Cleaning
Manual, from back to front
Manual, wiping the upper and sole to remove any dirt spots. White gloves worn for white shoe handling.
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19
Stuffing
20
Tagging
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21
Shoe complete
22
Boxes stacked in cartons
23 Stored in Buffer Stock till dispatch
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UV LINE 4 people | Setup Cost: 20 lakhs
1
2 Out soles ready to be placed on the UV line
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3 UV radiation enhances the bonding properties of bottom.
Bottoms ready after treatment of UV radiations.
BOTTOM The sole has two layers: midsole, and outsole. The components of the midsole, which provides the bulk of the cushioning, are EVA foam. Midsole are produced in two ways: Injection Moulding: Cheaper, Less accurate Compression Moulding: Exact size and form.
The outsole is made of carbon rubber with varying textures to fit the requirement- aesthetic and functional.
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QUALITY CONTROL Quality Assessment System
4. Buffer Stock
1. Material check on recieving
Random Check 1.5% of total shipment is checked Less than 2% defects- released
Acquire Material Check Sample Matching with sample Swatch file- colour match Lab Test Released
5.Lasting (Unit 3) 3 tollgates Roaming incharge
2.Cutting (Unit 1) Allowances Adherence to norms Accuracy 3. Stitching Match with sample
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Feedback System Online feedback Customer Care Return Policy: 6 months from date of sale
1. Colour Coding of brushes to follow timetable to ensure rotation of brushes
3
2. Samples hung on Tollgates in assembly lines 3. Inspection of pair quality and compatibility
1
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Chapter 3
Design Process Industry Orientation Programme | Neha Mann | F&LA V
DESIGN PROCESS 1. Line planned is recived from Marketing 2. 2d Pattern as per line drawing 3. 2D’s review with Market and Material finalisation 4.Precosting based on 2D’s design 5.Specification sheet making/ Material Ordering/ Pattern Making 6.Pattern trials (finalise in 3-4 trials) 7. Welding/embossing tools made for CR1 8. CR1 sample+testing+costing 9. CR1 review with ATS and Marketing 10. CR1 Feedback Implementation: revised material ordering/ changes in pattern 11. Cutting knives madde for CR2 12. CR2 sample+testing+costing 13.Tradeshow 14.Forecast arrival 15. Facctory allocation by ATS
16.Post Tradeshow sample implementation 17. Handover by MPCC to other facotires 18.Bill of materials releasing for production 19.CS1 sample size trial 20. Sample size review with ATS 21.CS1 Approved by ATS 22 Extreme size pattern grading 23. Extreme size tools made 24.Extreme size review with ATS 25. CS2 Extreme size fit approved by ATS 26.CS3 All size pattern grading 27.Toolings handles over to the production team 28. All sizes made on production line 29.Review by ATS and factory team 30. All sizes fit test approval 31. Production starts
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LEARNING This study helped me in Understanding the manufacturing environment in the shoe industry Understanding industry functions Understanding material sourcing, fabrication & costing Understanding Synergy I also learnt the design process of a large scale industry and the levels of approval involved in every step. I have gained knowledge about the production of sport shoes through observations, documentation, inquiry and experience.
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I also studied in depth about material specification and properties. Also,the relation between costing and sourcing of material proved to be very crucial. It was a very profitable experience as it provided real exposure to the industrial environment.
REFERENCES Websites www.texon.com www.madehow.com www.asics.co.uk www.adidas.come www.google.com www.wikipedia.com
Books Smith, Ian. “Do the Shoes Fit?” Frederick Lipp, Jason Gaillard . “Running Shoes”
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Industry Orientation Programme | Neha Mann | F&LA V