Jodhpur : Culture and craft

PART 1

JODHPUR

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

Copyright 2014 Student document publication, meant for private circulation only.

All rights reserved. NIFT Fashion and Lifestyle Accessory Design, 2012-2016 NIFT, New Delhi.

No part of this document will be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photography, xerography and videography recording, without written permission from the group of publishers and NIFT, New Delhi.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

CERTIFICATE This is to certify that Atreyi Haldar, Kartik Dhuria, Midhun Krishnan, Neeta Dan, Neha Mann and Smalika Verma have successfully completed the work required for the module titled Craft Based Design Project in partial fulfilment for the award of Bachelor Of Design specialising in Fashion And Lifestyle Accessories prescribed by National Institute Of Fashion Technology.

This project is the record of authentic work carried out during the academic year 2014-2015.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT We would like to express our deepest appreciation to all those who provided us the possibility of completing this report. A special gratitude to our subject faculty, Ms. Anshoo Rajvanshi, whose contribution in stimulating suggestions and encouragement, helped us to coordinate our project.

Furthermore we would also like to acknowledge with much appreciation the crucial role of Mr. Sachin Tiwari, who provided constant feedback on our concept in Jodhpur. A special thanks to NIFT Jodhpur, for making us feel welcome and safe.

Most importantly, we are very grateful to the artisans at the various work locations in Jodhpur, for spending their valuable time providing useful information and demonstrating their skills for our documentation.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

OBJECTIVE To conduct a wholesome study of the location- Jodhpur.

Knowledge Domain Understanding the culture

Concept Domain

Design intervention

Product Development Developing concepts which are feasible:

Economic factors Understanding the meaning that their traditional motifs hold Understanding historical references of architecture Studying the various crafts of Jodhpur Studying about the machinery and tools used Identifying and studying the processes involved

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

Skills of the artisans

In given duration of time

Processes of manufacturing

Are within the skill set of the artisans Economy involved

CONTENTS Chapter 1 Jodhpur

Chapter 2 Craft Study

1 Introduction 2 History 3 Monuments

3.1 Mehrangarh Fort

3.2 Umaid Bhawan

3.3 Clock Tower

3.4 Jaswant Thada 4 Culture

4.1 Festivals

4.2 Clothing

4.3 Food

1 Wood Carving 2 Leather 3 Bone & MOP

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

Chapter 1

JODHPUR Jodhpur District is a district of the state of Rajasthan in western India. The city of Jodhpur is the administrative headquarters of the district.

As of 2012 it is the second most populous district of Rajasthan (out of 33), after Jaipur.

Rajasthan, the land embellished with infinite imprints of colour and chivalry, harmonious life and lingering music, harmony and hospitality, palaces and pristine nature; has been extending an invigorating invitation to the world, since time immemorial.

Jodhpur, the heart of Rajasthan and the majestic jewel of her eternal crown, illuminate the Thar, enriching the desert with entrepreneurship, scholarship and art.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

According to Rathore tradition, the clan traces its origins back to the Hindu god, Rama, hero of the epic Ramayana, and thence to the sun. So the Rathores belong to the Suryavansha (solar race) branch of the Kshatriyas, the warrior caste of Hindus. Later, breaking into historical reality, in 470 A.D. Nayal Pal conquered the kingdom of Kanauj, near modern Kanpur in Uttar Pradesh. The Rathor capital for seven centuries, Kanauj fell in 1193 to the Afghan invaders led by Muhammad Ghori.

DEMOGRAPHICS Country State District Governing Body Elevation Population Density Official Language Time Zone Pin Code

India Rajasthan Jodhpur Municipal Corporation of Jodhpur 231m(758 ft) ~1,210,000 11,210/sq km (29,000/sq mi) Hindi IST (UTC+5:30) 342005

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

HISTORY The land area which is called jodhpur today was only a small portion of the grand marwar state before independence. Its borders touched Bikaner in the North, Jaipur in the North-East, Ajmer Mewara in the East , Sirohi and Palampur in the South cutting across the Thar of Sindh province and Rann of Kutch and Jaisalmer State in North-West.

Before independence, its total area was as widespread as 35,016 sq. miles Hundreds of centuries ago, before this expansive desert came into existence, this area was a sea called Drumkulya. Epics have it that an arrow bound fire shot by Lord Rama burnt a large part of the sea and converted it into a desert. This desert was called Maru Mandal, Marudhar, Maruwar, Maru Desh and Marwar.

Hundreds of years later and after having undergone the ravages of several Kings and their battles , under the rule of king Rao Jodha

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

of the Vikram Era (1510) , a city was slowly established around the fort constructed by King Rao Jodha.

This fort was situated 6 miles south of Mandore on a mountain called Chidiyanath ki Tonk. This city came to be known as Jodhpur or Jodhana or Jodhaji Ki Dhani and was the capital of the Marwar state for five centuries.

When Rao Jodha established the walled city , it had four gates.

As time passed , the city became congested with increasing population and the boundaries continued to expand. Today that area is called Old City and has a 3 to 8 ft. wide and 15 to 30 ft. high wall around it in the shape of a horse shoe . This wall has six big gates called Chand Pol , Nagauri Gate, Merti Gate , Sojati Gate, Siwanchi Gate and Jalori Gate. These gates earlier had iron sheets fixed with nails.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

MEHRANGARH FORT Mehrangarh (etymology: ‘Mihir’ (Sanskrit) -sun or Sun-deity; ‘garh’ (Sanskrit)-fort; i.e.’Sun-fort’); according to Rajasthani language pronunciation conventions,’Mihirgarh’ has changed to ‘Mehrangarh’; the Sun-deity has been the chief deity of the Rathore dynasty.[2] Though the fortress was originally started in 1459 by Rao Jodha, founder of Jodhpur, most of the fort which stands today dates from the period of Jaswant Singh (1638–78). The fort is located at the centre of the city spreading over 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) atop a high hill. Its walls, which are up to 36 metres (118 ft) high and 21 metres (69 ft) wide, protect some of the most beautiful and historic palaces in Rajasthan.

The fort is situated 400 feet (122 m) above the city and is enclosed by imposing thick walls. Inside its boundaries there are several palaces known for their intricate carvings and expansive courtyards. A winding road leads to and from the city below. The imprints of cannonball hits by attacking armies of Jaipur

can still be seen on the second gate.

According to legend to build the fort he had to displace the hill’s sole human occupant, a hermit called Cheeria Nathji, the lord of birds. Upset at being forced to move Cheeria Nathji cursed Rao Jodha with “Jodha! May your citadel ever suffer a scarcity of water!”. Rao Jodha managed to appease the hermit by building a house and a temple in the fort very near the cave the hermit had used for meditation, though only to the extent that even today the area is plagued by a drought every 3 to 4 years.

The museum in the Mehrangarh fort is one of the most well-stocked museums in Rajasthan. In one section of the fort museum there is a selection of old royal palanquins, including the elaborate domed gilt Mahadol palanquin which was won in a battle from the Governor of Gujarat in 1730. The museum exhibits the heritage of the Rathores in arms, costumes, paintings and decorated period rooms.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

Mehrangarh UMAID BHAWAN Fort The umaid bhawan palace serves as the residence of the erstwhile jodhpur royal family, named after the grandfather, Maharaja Umaid singh, the Palace has 347 rooms.

The Palace is divided into three functional parts, the taj palace hotel since 1972, the residence of the owners family, and a museum of 20th century history of the Jodhpur Royal family.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

On it’s completion in 1943, it was called, Chhittar Palace, due to the use of chittar stone in it’s construction. It was built to provide employment to thousands of people the time of famine. The Palace is divided into three functional parts, the taj palace hotel since 1972, the residence of the owners family, and a museum of 20th century history of the Jodhpur Royal family.

The palace houses an open display of vintage vehicles of the royal family.

Set at an elevation, the umaid bhawan palace is surrounded by large areas of manicured greens. Sprawling over 35,78,000 sq. feet, guests are greeted with a royal welcome with flower garlands, verimillion tikas and blowing trumpets.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

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CLOCK TOWER Clock tower at Nayi Sarak was constructed by Late Sri Sardar Singh. Besides the Clock Tower is the sadar Market where traditional products and handicrafts are sold. It is a great tourist spot and is always bustling with energy.

From this market, tourists can purchase Rajasthani textiles, clay figurines, miniature camels and elephants, marble inlay work and classic silver jewellery.

Shopping for old antiques, genuine and extraordinary replicas from some of the best known shops of Jodhpur.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

Considered one of the largest markets in Jodhpur, Ghanta Ghar (Clock Tower) bazaar is also one of the oldest markets tucked away in the heart of the city.

A good location to enjoy the spicy, local food: The traditional food of Jodhpur, bursting with flavours and spices, is fit for the royals.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

JASWANT THADA The Jaswant Thada is an architectural landmark located in Jodhpur. It is a white marble memorial built by Maharaja Sardar Singh of Jodhpur State in 1899 in memory of his father, Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. The monument, in its entirety, is built out of intricately carved sheets of marble. These stones are extremely thin and polished so that they emit a warm glow when the sun’s rays dance across their surface.

Within this cenotaph, there are also two more tombs. The Jaswant Thada is a traditional cremation ground of Jodhpur rulers. The grounds also include exquisitely carved gazebos, a beautiful mulchtiered garden, and a small lake.

To the left of the Mehrangarh Fort complex is the Jaswant Thada of Jodhpur, Rajasthan. It is a 19thcentury royal cenotaph built in commemoration of Maharaja

Jaswant Singh II, the 33rd Rathore ruler of Jodhpur. The son of Maharaja Jaswant Singh, Maharaja Sardar Singh, in the memory of his father, built the Jaswant Thada.

The cenotaph has two more tombs within it. Near to this are the royal crematorium and three other cenotaphs.

Famous Jaswant Thada in Jodhpur, India is an example of architectural brilliance in India. It is a white marble memorial, built out of intricately carved sheets of marble.

The carving shows the genius of the sculptors. These stones are extremely thin and polished. As a result, the outside surface of the monument emits a warm glow when the sun-rays fall on its surface. There is also beautiful marble jali work on the cenotaph. You can have some nice views from the terrace in front of the cenotaph.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

CULTURE 14 Jodhpur has artistic and cultural traditions which reflect the ancient Indian way of life.

There is a rich and varied folk culture from villages which is often depicted symbolic of the state.

Jodhpur as had a glorious history. It is known for many brave kings, their deeds; and their interest in art and architecture. Its name means “the land of the rajas�. It was also called Rajputana (the country of the Rajputs); whose codes of chivalry shaped social mores just as their often bitter and protected feuding dominated their politics.

Drenched into royal grandeur and soaked into glorious history, Rajasthan is one of the most charming and captivating states of India. It has been globally famous tourism destination with lots of tourist attractions and fabulous tourist facilities. This historical state of India attracts tourists and vacationers with its rich culture, tradition, heritage, and monuments. It is also rich in its flora and fauna with some of popular wildlife sanctuaries & national parks.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

PAGDI

COST BALIYAN

HASLI ACHKAN HAAR

CHOGA

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RAKHRI BINDI

UMES ODHNI NATH

TIMAANIYAAN

LEHNGA CHOLI

CHOODA BAJU BAND

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

FOOD 18 Rajasthan is known for its culture, tradition, custom, tahzeeb and last but not the least for its food. In a Rajasthan there are many cities which is known for its food but Jodhpur is one of the Famous city not only in rajasthan but in India which truly known for its Royalty in food.

Jodhpur has a number of eating varieties. We can have every cuisine in Jodhpur, ranging from Indian to Chinese to continental to Mughlai cuisine.Jodhpur is known for its own original taste, there are so many varieties in Namkeens, in Sweets, in Food and many other. Jodhpur food is famous for its taste and spices. Jodhpuri food contain lots of red chilli powder and other spices which double its taste.

Jodhpuri Rasoi contain lots of sweets, namkeens and a huge variety of taste. The famous daal bhaati churma is a common delight. Meva kachori is widely enjoyed too.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

CRAFT STUDY

The prominent crafts of Jodhpur include: Wood Carving Leather Craft Bone & Mother of Pearl Wrought Iron

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

WOOD CARVING

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

22 The History of wood carving has from the remotest ages the decoration of wood as a foremost art. The tendency of human nature has always been to ornament every article in use.Throughout the great Indian peninsula woodcarving of the most luxurious kind has been continuously produced for many centuries. The ancient Hindu temples were decorated with doors, ceilings and various fittings carved in teak and other woods with patterns of extreme richness and minute elaboration.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

1.Chip Carving

Chip carving is a style of carving in which knives or chisels are used to remove small chips of the material from a flat surface in a single piece. The style became important in Migration Period metalwork, mainly Animal style jewellery, where the faceted surfaces created caught the light to give a glinting appearance.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

2.Relief Carving

​​ Relief carving is a sculptural form in which figures are carved in a flat panel of wood. The figures project only slightly from the background rather than standing freely. Depending on the degree of projection, relief may also be classified as high or medium relief. The process of relief carving involves removing wood from a flat wood panel in such a way that an object appears to rise out of the wood.

3.Whittling

Whittling may refer either to the art of carving shapes out of raw wood using only a knife or it may refer to a time occupying, non-artistic, reduction process of repeatedly shaving slivers from a piece of wood.

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Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

LEATHER CRAFT Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

26 Leather is a durable and flexible material created by the tanning of animal rawhide and skin, often cattle hide. It can be produced through manufacturing processes ranging from cottage industry to heavy industry.

Leather is used for various purposes including clothing (e.g. shoes, hats, jackets, skirts, trousers and belts), bookbinding, leather wallpaper, and as a furniture covering. It is produced in a wide variety of types and styles and is decorated by a wide range of techniques.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

1.Dyeing

Leather dyeing usually involves the use of spirit- or alcohol-based dyes where alcohol quickly gets absorbed into moistened leather, carrying the pigment deep into the surface. Alternatives to spirit stains might include a number of options. Shoe polish can be used to dye and preserve leather. Oils such as neatsfoot or linseed can be applied to preserve leather but darkens them. A wax paste more often than not serves as the final coat.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

2.Carving

Leather carving entails using metal implements to compress moistened leather in such a way as to give a three-dimensional appearance to a two-dimensional surface.

The surface of the leather is not intended to be cut through, as would be done in filigree. The main tools used to “carve� leather include: swivel knife, veiner, beveler, pear shader, seeder, cam, and bakground tool. The swivel knife is held similar to pencil and drawn along the leather to outline patterns. The other tools are punch-type implements struck with a wooden, nylon or rawhide mallet.

3.Stamping

Leather stamping involves the use of shaped implements (stamps) to create an imprint onto a leather surface, often by striking the stamps with a mallet. Stamps are available in various designs, typically geometric or representative of animals.

Most stamping is performed on vegetable tanned leather that has been dampened with water, as the water makes the leather softer and able to be compressed by the design being pressed or stamped into it.

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Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

BONE & MOP

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

Artistic bone carving is among the most ancient forms of folk decorative art. One of the most famous folk art craft in Rajasthan is bone carving, formed and practiced in villages of Jodhpur. In the style of carving, it intersects the different cultural traditions, Persian and Mughal. Relief may depict scenes from the life of the people, portraits and posters, the animals and plants.

Jodhpur bone typically has floral pattern, berries, and rocaille.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

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1. Bone Inlay Inlay is a decorative technique of inserting pieces of contrasting, often coloured materials into depressions in a base object to form patterns or pictures that normally are flush with the matrix. It is commonly used in production of decorative furniture, where pieces of coloured wood or metal are inserted into the surface of the carcass.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

2. Carving Bone carving is the act of creating art forms by carving into animal bones and often includes the carving of antlers and horns. It can result in the ornamentation of a bone, or the creation of a figure.

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Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

LEARNING This study helped us in Understanding the culture Understanding demographics Understanding the synergy between culture, craft and economy We also learnt the design process of the production of various crafts through observations, documentation, inquiry and experience.

We also studied in depth about material specification and properties. Also,the relation between costing and sourcing of material proved to be very crucial.

It was a very profitable experience as it provided real exposure to the craft environment.

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014

REFERENCES 33 Websites www.etsystatic.com www.madehow.com www.asics.co.uk www.google.com www.wikipedia.com www.secondshoutout. com www.dsource.in www.fortuneexports.co.in

Books Wrought Iron in Architecture, Gerard K Geerling

Craft Based Design Project | F&LA 5 | 2014