FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS
The rise of natural fragrances The fragrance industry has gone from an era of abstract concepts linked to sensations and escapism to one marked by nature, which calls to mind the natural ingredients themselves. Honey, vanilla, jasmine or bamboo are now the protagonist ingredients of thousands of new fragrance launches. But what has triggered this trend among consumers?
A
ccording to Iberchem, the main
reason seems to be an increasing interest in health and environmental wellness. What first took over the culinary world, is now making itself comfortable within the beauty and fragrance industry. When it comes to the environment, it’s best to avoid confusion – citing sustainability as a reason for the consumption of natural products is not necessarily a valid one. Natural ingredients are not more sustainable. It all depends on how they are harvested. Still, the fragrance industry is working hard to respond to this clear demand by taking actions such as trying to reduce its overall carbon footprint, while implementing sustainable improvements across its supply chains, both upstream and downstream. The other major motive behind the trend towards natural fragrances is health – people perceive natural as being healthy. In this sense, consumers should be at ease knowing that most countries have strict regulations governing every single ingredient that goes into a final product. In Europe, for instance, there is the REACH regulation which aims to protect human health and the environment from chemical substances present in any form in commercial products.
"Natural ingredients are not more sustainable. It all depends on how they are harvested“ 34
Did you know? Fragrance houses offer fragrance technologies with hygiene benefits, designed especially for cleaning and antibacterial products. These technologies utilise the relationship between the molecular structure of fragrance ingredients and their antimicrobial activity. They are suitable for all applications where hygiene claims are important, for example, cleaners, hand soap and sanitisers, and shower and deodorant products.
CERTIFIED INGREDIENTS It can be difficult for consumers to be sure that the fragrances they are buying are truly natural and not just greenwashing through the use of buzzwords. Something consumers should look for are certifications of the manufacturers. COSMOS is an international, EU-born certification which establishes the requirements for a product to be defined as natural or organic. This certification is awarded by Ecocert, and fragrance houses such as Iberchem now offer a wide range of natural ingredients certified as COSMOS-natural. Ecocert is an independent certification body, which certifies that a product complies with European ecological standards. On average, natural products certified by Ecocert contain 99% ingredients of natural origin. All products sold commercially with the Ecocert logo have been verified, from their composition to how they are manufactured and packaged. Once the certification is awarded, renewal is subject to an annual review of each certified raw material.
Luz Vaquero, chief perfumer at Iberchem, says natural ingredients and natural fragrances seem to be here to stay
top, middle and bottom notes in balance. So far, in fine perfumery, we have used natural ingredients to create more complex perfumes, adding them to formulas using synthetic ingredients. Developing fine fragrances using only natural ingredients represents a great challenge for modern-day perfumery. “Considering the growing demand for naturals over the past years, natural ingredients and natural fragrances seem to be here to stay. The perfume and cosmetics industry is highly dynamic and undergoes constant research. We can then expect progress in such products over the coming months and years.” The great challenge now is to balance this demand with another great worldwide preoccupation: hygienic products. According to an April 2020 report by Euromonitor, there will be a strong increase in demand for products perceived as clean and hygienic. “We will have to watch closely for changes in a market currently framed by the COVID-19 pandemic. With more and more people shopping online and in-store testers being disregarded, it will be interesting to see what the future will hold for the perfume and cosmetics industry. Will the trend for natural survive the new normal? Or will people prioritise the hygienic claim?” asks Vaquero. •
THE FUTURE OF NATURALS “Essential oils are already a blend as complex as that of a perfume,” mentions Luz Vaquero, chief perfumer at Iberchem. “They contain
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Iberchem – www.iberchem.com
