Lucki vjesnik / Port news 9 by Netmedia Sistemi

BROJ 9

BREVIJAR ZA SVAKOGA NA MORU

LISTOPAD 2013.

51 LUKA SPLITSKO-DALMATINSKE ŽUPANIJE

ULTRA PARTY HVAR

OCTOBER 2013

NO.9

VEZANI ZA KOMIŽU

Umjesto GPS-a

IZAZOVI ZIMSKOG LJETA Piše Domagoj Maroević, ravnatelj Lučke uprave Splitsko-dalmatinske županije

Ususret 2014., na webu ćemo informacijama i fotoreportima popuniti stanku između dviju sezona jer one se ionako spajaju, pretapaju. Sve je više nautičara koji otkrivaju čari zimskog ljeta, bonace i sunčanih razdoblja naše Srednje Dalmacije. A internetom smo dostupni svakom u Europi.

Ovaj deveti broj je uistinu europski jer smo od Lučkog vjesnika i Port Newsa složili jedan list inkontinuo, od 1. do 48. stranice, tako da se i ne osjeti gdje je verzija na hrvatskom, a gdje na engleskom jeziku, što je ujedno neizbježna pojava u svakodnevnom govoru novih generacija. Dakle, ne morate tražiti prijevod u drugoj polovici lista, imate reportaže odmah na oba jezika. Prelistat ćete Srednju Dalmaciju pričama gotovo iz svih luka, gradića, pa i skrivenih uvala. U ovom broju možete pročitati storije i iskustva poznatih ličnosti, književnika Hrvoja Hitreca, svestranog slikara, pravnika i profesora matematike Jerolima Ostojića, trogirskog gradonačelnika iz devedesetih godina, uglednog kirurga Josipa Paladina, arhitekta Ede Šegvića, starogradskog gradonačelnika Vinka Maroevića... Zanimljive su reportaže sina Hajdukovog trenera Slavka Luštice, Slavena Luštice, s njegove đite po otocima, te iskustva skipera i jedriličara Rubena Vujnovića, reprint-prilog velikog spektakla „Ultra party“ u Hvaru, zapisi o novim rivama Staroga Grada, iz Bola i Sutivana na Braču, trogirske Marine, sa Šolte, iz Trogira, Visa, Komiže, Omiša, pa čak i s Pašmana i Ugljana te iz Grabovca o agroturizmu Dunde, frontmena benda „Trio Gušt“...

dlaskom ljeta, naš list Lučki vjesnik/ Port News može se pohvaliti da se udomaćio u 51 luci, u gradićima Splitsko-dalmatinske županije, i to već drugu godinu. Sezona istječe, ali idući broj objavit ćemo već uoči proljeća dogodine. Tako je bilo i s brojem 5. u 2013. Pojavili smo se i na internetu, na našoj web-stranici, što ćemo razvijati i dalje.

Izdavač: Lučka uprava Splitsko-dalmatinske županije

Koncept, dizajn i fotografije: Garber media d.o.o. Segor Garber

Tisak: Split, Slobodna Dalmacija Print d.o.o.

Za izdavača: Ravnatelj Lučke uprave Domagoj Maroević

Prijevod: Vuk Oreb

Internetsko izdanje: www.lusdz.hr (link: Lučki vjesnik)

Lektor: Elizabeta Sonjara Garber

Sva prava pridržava Garber media d.o.o. info@garber-media.hr

Grafička priprema: Nenad Nazlić

ISSN 1848-4689

Glavni urednik: Domagoj Maroević Urednik: Mario Garber Photo: Sumartin on the island of Brač

K A Z ALO

BURA JE HRVATSKI BREND

str 7-8-9

BURA JE HRVATSKI BREND

JEROLIM TROGIRANIN

str 16-17 AN ISLAND THAT NEVER SLEEPS

ULTRA HVAR

str 21 DOMAĆA RIVA ZA PAIZ

DOMAĆA RIVA ZA PAIZ

str 34-35 HOLLYWOOD ON THE CETINA RIVER

OMIŠ, HOLLYWOOD

str 36-37

HRVOJE HITREC

str 38-39

IN HEAVEN TILL DAWN GUŠTI KOD DUNDE

DUNDO

str 40-41 BIŠEVO, ŠĆEDRO, PAKLENI, VELA GARŠKA

LUŠTICA

str 46-47 3

Ship’s Log S EW N T R g PO livin sea

To take a voyage, all you have to do is set sail

BIŠEVO, ŠĆEDRO, PAK

By SSlaven B l LLuštica šti št

here is no such thing as a poorly written ship’s log. It’s a pleasure to read even a dry description of engine oil getting changed or other information about the normal life of a vessel. But, when you embark upon writing the first sentence in a fresh ship’s log, you feel exited, as if something big was happening. But it’s all simple, day-to-day stuff. On July 26th, we left Split, and we will return on August 28th! Is there anything more beautiful? Nečujam on Šolta, Milna, Lučica on Brač, Vela Graška on Hvar, Palmižana, Taršće, Vis and Czech Villa, Stončica, Milna, Bargujac, Rukavac, Budihovac, Srebrena, Ruda, Stiniva, followed by Biševo (Mezoporat), Salbunara, Biševo Porat, Komiža, Rukavac again, and then straight to Šćedro, taking the south coast of Hvar, looking at Korčula.

THE SKY OF NEČUJAM Who can stop the excitement? What about the crew? One female dog, Luka, age six and a half, black, Labrador. Her owner: Ranka Paškaš. And our third crew member: Captain Slaven Luštica, who just happens to be the person writing this ship’s log. Out vessel is a Elan 333. The large cove of Nečujam is ideal for turning a ‘land lover’ into a ‘sea dog’. After tak-

ing a tour of the coves around Nečujam, we’re back where we started from. Šumpljivina!? A nice name, and a beatiful cove. Small, sweet, secured from all winds apart from the south wind, jugo. This is where Luka trula became a sea dog and started swimming. Dived, swam, jumped into the sea. A light sea breeze at sundown followed us as we went for a walk to the nearby cove of Podkamenica, and then we went to Maslenica and Piškera, located under a wonderful pine forest. These are smells you remember forever, while the nights are full of stars. Nečujam offers plenty of sights for an entire tour, but Brač is also calling upon

us. Every time, I remember this story about a business man who made his money in South America, his name was Sargo Bonačić, and some one hundred years ago he gave away his savings to the town of Milna. Some 25 million dollars in gold. I wonder what ever happened to that gold.

Just like Nečujam, Lučice are a supercove formation, like a large hand with ports for fingers. I called my friend Marino Lemešić, he runs a beach restaurant with his son, and they own a couple of docks as well. He’ll save a dock for us, as Marino and I go way back, we went to high school in Šibenik together. We

even went to the same class, and even back then, it was obvious Marin will have a successful football career.

THE PORTS OF LEMEŠIĆ Marino soon started playing for Hajduk, and since 1969, my father Slavko Luštica was his coach. Marino became one of the greatest talents of his generation, responsible for Hajduk winning the National Cup in 1971, after many years away from the top title. Marino’s career came to an abrupt end due to a serious injury, but he quickly transitioned into academic studies, and graduated from Law School. This became another platform for Marino to show his talent, work ethic and quality. Marino deserves living in such a beautiful area because he spent a big part of his life preserving pine forests in Lučice. He’s always going on about Hajduk and his son Leo, who’s a merchant sailor. So, he’s talking to me about how his son is now going through Po-

KLENI, VELA GARŠKA linesia and Cook’s Islands. The Lemešić Family are good company and true hosts. Great food, wonderful ambiance, and we’re hosted by our Maitre d´hotel and his wife Dragica, a journalist dedicated to coastal life and tourism.

From Brač, it’s easy to make the jump to Hvar. Over there, you’ve got such natural wonders as Vela Garška, and the human wonder, Marko Pavičić, the man who redesigned the cove with such enthusiasm, it’s no wonder he has a matser’s degree in enterpreneurship, and is working on a doctorate. Vela Graška has bee reborn, cleaned up, new pebbles have been added, shrubbery,hammocks, the perfect shade, tables under pine trees, a small bowling alley, and all of this is in the middle of nature, where you shouldn’t be surprised to see a deer or mouflon.

Two days later, we’re sailing to Vis, waving as we pass by Paklenjaci Islands near Solin and Vlaka, guided by a heavenly morning and calm sea – as the saying goes, ‘as calm as oil’, and we’re relaxed, too. We’ve passed the tiny island of Dobri on the left, and now we’re going straight to Vis. We’ll get there by the time Ranka finishes her ritual of sipping coffee intermittently. Luka is lying down and having a nap, and I’m close to the main rope ring. Vis is but a strong shadow on the horizon, from Stončica on the south east side, to it’s final lines ending on the west side.

Host is on the right, and we’re going to the left side, to Czech Villa. Two boats are anchored at the local promenade, one is a

charter sailboat, a floating apartment for aspiring sailors who are being trained by Marin Sirišćević Sira. We have a tour of Jurjeva Cove, the whole Port of Vis, all the wonders of Kuta, Mala and Velika Banda, and, of course, the coast is calling us to have a rest at Czech Villa. Luka loves it here, she goes for a walk whenever she wants to. It’s a dog’s life, eh?

My Ranka is an incredible cook, so I’ve decided to stay out of the kitchen. Before lunch, we take a short trip to town, have a cup of coffee and an ice cold ‘travarica’. It’s good for the heart, soul and stomach. We visit all of our people in Vis, walk the promenade, buy some groceries, go to the post office, visit some restaurants, and see what’s fresh at the

THE TREASURES OF KOMIŽA AND VIS The food purchases on the Island of Hvar is a hot and crowded place, it’s actually a comeback to what we’re used to in Split. And so wee meet Captain Darko Vicić – Pirko, from Milna. We go to Palmižana, we’re met by Pero Krstulović Snaga and his wife. Many wonderful sights follow: Taršće Cove on the south side of Palmižana, Vinogradišće, Dagmarica, Novak Restorant on its right side, Zori below, lots of ships and boats, we drop our anchor next to some Italians, who also have a black Labrador.

The 1331 statute declares Šćedro as county property, intended for pasture. Šćedro is also mentioned becuase of its Church of Saint Mary of Generosity, an impressive monolith from Ilirian times, and a Domenican monastery that was left abandoned after pirate attacks during the 18th century.

fish market. Summer rush, heat, it’s all good, and every night at Czech Villa, we sleep undernath the thick covers – in the middle of summer! Who can put a price on that? Vis is like a series of heavens next to each other. There’s a small sand cove on the way to Stončica, they’ve installed buoys, there’s a sandy beach, a volleyball court and two restoraunts. Next up is Milna, Zaglav, a morning swim, Bargujac, Rukavac, Srebrena, Ruda and – exclamation mark needed – Stiniva! Ranka is diving into the sea, Luka, too, and me? I have to take a couple of photos.

That’s not all. We have Biševo, Modra špilja, Mezoporat, and then we try to dock our vessel at the promenade, but we can’t, there’s no room, it’s boat to boat and everyone is trying to find a tiny bit of space for maneuvering. It’s still so beautiful, you need a moment to get back to reality. So, we steadily continue to Salbunara and the Biševo Porat, one of the top ten most beautiful beaches on the Mediterranean according to a list from last year. How do our guests, foreigners and sailors handle all of this? There’s still Komiža! Ranka is thrilled. A brand new day takes us to Šćedro. We’re gonna need three and a half hours, we leave in the morning, taking the south coast of Vis. The sun is up, and we can see we’re getting closer as we’re approaching the tiny Lukavci islands. Finally, we find ourselves in an oasis of peace, aromas and endless beauty, situated on this endemic island, with Lovište and

Manistir coves on the north, while the south side features the wonderful small sand cove of Porteruša, a true wonder. We visit all of the coves by raft, and we visit the taverns as well. Our favorite one is Rata, at Lovište. A true sea dog, Rato is a seventy-year-old wise man, a Šćedro native, and a walking encyclopedia.

The ‘Mediterranean Islands’ guide book, written by British author Charles Arnold, describes two hundred of the most beautiful islands of the Mediterranean, and it lists Šćedro as the most peaceful island of all. Well, the time comes to say goodbye to such a wonderful place. Now we must set sail.

Classic. A family owned business, an Austrian wife, a son who’s just finishing up his studies in Vienna, while the waitress is a diminutive girl called Vera, from Slavonski brod. She spends half the year at Šćedro, and the other half in Vienna. I guess that’s why for one half of the year, Šćedro has the reputation of being overpopulated by mice – it’s because the cats are away.

At dawn, we leave a sleepy Šćedro in the mist of summer heat, slowly recognizing the siloutte of Hvar on the horizon: Zavala, Ivan Dolac, Sv. Nedilja, Dubovica, Zaraće, Milna and Pokonji Dol, a place that awakens memories, such as the time when we saw a dolphin there and he gave us a proper smile, or another time, when our engine decided to quit on us, but local guys from Hvar came to our rescue and towed our boat to the island.

KUČAN IN BOBOVIŠĆE

At the end of our trip, we visit Bobovišće and our friends Kata and Captain Vedran, whom I’m asking about spare buoys. A man of his business, he guides us to our anchorage. Then we have a nice cold beer with Đurđica, who along with Kate, is a great humanitarian. This is where we run into mister Kučan, the former Slovenian president. He spends his summers on Brač, and helps out Kata and Đurđica every time they are organizing blood donations. Hey, if you give to the sea, the sea will give back!

Actually, one of the mice decided to pay us a visit, as he climbed our ropes and hopped on board. Lucky for us, we have Luka, and she snores so loundly it just chased the mouse away. Still, we had to search the entire boat in the morning. This was a hitoric moment for us, as this is also the same place where in 47 BC the fleets of Pompeii and Cesar engaged in battle!

BRODOM I AUTOM Na Šoltu svojim brodom, pa autom do Karlobaga, a «unajmljenim» trajektom na Pašman i Ugljan, otoke povezane mostom iznad prolaza Ždrelac

BURA JE HRVATSKI BREND WSy RTNaEw a POa y& aw

Da se mi razumijemo u turizam, meteorolozi bi u prognozi dali koordinate di se može lipo snimit buru, ali mi pojma nemamo pa kritiziramo meteorologe da nam tiraju goste. A gosti jedino i pamte tu senjsku buru, možda se i vraćaju zbog nje. Valjalo bi od bure učinit pravi hrvatski brend

Tekst Elizabeta i Mario Garber

e li moguće bit nautičar bez broda, kao i mornar bez svog mora? Naravno da je sve moguće. Tamo gdje ti odgovara unajmiš brod, kaić, gumenjak, jedrilicu, trajekt… Kako trajekt? Evo naše rute: Bili smo našim brodićem u Rogaču na otoku Šolti. Prognoza je orkanska bura. Danas i prognoze odišu žutilom kao svi mediji. Pa tko ne zna zanimljivo pisat, pojačava buru da bi mu tekst bio što burniji to privlačniji.

OD ROGAČA DO T Znamo da će ta bura u Rogaču samo nakratko smetat i zato, da nam bura ne uteče - dižemo sidro pa trč za burom lipo gori do Karlobaga i Senja. Naša Betalina, najsporiji brodić na Jadranu, za uru-dvi je akošta u Split. Zovnete sina da vam donese auto isprid broda i odmah trčite u Karlobag. More cipa o rivu, auta se provon probijaju kroz buru, a svi prozori i balkoni načičkani turistima s fotoaparatima. Da se mi razumijemo u turizam, meteorolozi bi u prognozi dali koordinate di se može lipo snimit buru, ali mi pojma nemamo pa kritiziramo meteorologe da nam tiraju goste. A gosti jedino i pamte tu senjsku buru, možda se i vraćaju zbog nje. Valjalo bi od bure učinit pravi hrvatski brend. Šteta šta se brzo ispuhala i sutra smo se vratili učas u Biograd za «unajmit» trajekt. E, za «unajmit» - jer ste kupili kartu za sebe i auto, oko sto kuna. Nije puno za unajmit cili trajekt na desetak minuti. Toliko traje vožnja do Tkona, mjesta na otoku Pašmanu. A onda ste začas preko mosta na otok Ugljan. Oba otoka protežu se uz kopno od Biograda do Zadra i Vira tako da za sat-dva možete obić sva mjesta na oba otoka.

NE ZNAŠ DI SI?! Most između Pašmana i Ugljana je idealan za fotografiranje goleme nautičarske flote u Jadranu koja cirkulira poznatim prolazom Ždrelac. Jedni plove prema kopnu, Zadru, Biogradu itd., a drugi izlaze na pučinu s koje se vide prekrasni Dugi otok i Kornati. Znači, bitna točka. Autom «otplovite» do kraja Ugljana, otoka na koji ste mostom prešli s Pašmana, pa gore na sjeveru otoka bacite pogled na čudo od arhipelaga: Iž, Rivanj, Sestrunj, Molat, Ist… Za «preplovit» autom Pašman i Ugljan treba vam manje od jednog sata, nema nego 20-tak milja (NM), a auto nam je gliserčina prema brodu koji vozi 10 km/ sat. Da biste imali potpunu sliku svega što ste oplovili, preporučamo odmah u Tkonu, čim se iskrcate s trajekta, izać lijevo iz

mjesta pa se uspet na brežuljak s crkvicom odakle se lijepo vidi Vrgada, sasvim južno, gdje počinju Kornati u visini otoka Žirja. S pučinske strane duž Pašmana i Ugljana pruža se pogled na Otok Žut, Kornate i Dugi otok. Možete provjeriti u velikoj vali Lamljana na Ugljanu. Trajekti iz Biograda idu često. Rijetko se čeka. Osim ako vam se ne dogodi, kao nama, da vlasnik auta nije došao pa se blo-

kirala kolona i ode trajekt. Mora bit da je čovik zaboravio da je došao autom u Biograd. Moguće je ako zbog posla svakodnevno, možda i više puta, pređeš trajektom s otoka na kopno. Ne znaš više jesi li na otoku ili kopnu, a kamo li di ti je auto. Dakle, zanimljivo mjesto i ruta. Moglo se poslije, vidjet ćete, i nama dogodit slično, da zaboravimo gdje nam je auto, na otoku ili kopnu.

ŠPAR I ŠANPJER Jer nigdje slobodnog kreveta, sobe, apartmana. Još se i rugaju s nama: za jednu noć, haha, pa odmahuju. Most preko Ždrelca gdje se spajaju Pašman i Ugljan prava je atrakcija, davno se tu nagradilo apartmana i luksuznih vila za iznajmljivanje, a atraktivne su i priče o dozvoljenoj visini jarbola (7 m) bogataških jedrilica jer valja proć ispod mosta. Čim pređete na Ugljan, desno možete skrenit za Ždrelašticu, naselje nepreglednog niza divovskih apartmana uz obalu. Kome se tako skupo spava? U prvom kafiću gazda nas plaši da nema nigdje mjesta za jednu noć, a

TKONA mi mu tvrdimo da ima za 500 kn. I što će ti drugo past na pamet, stigli već na kraj Ugljana. Najbolje ostavit auto i brodom u Zadar zaspat u neki portun, a i hotel je jeftiniji nego na Ugljanu. Sutra ujutro ne bi znali ni di je auto, ni di smo mi. E ali ipak evo sriće, u Sutomišćici. Divan kafić uz more za popit pivo. Odmah nas pitaju da odakle smo i u dvi riči evo čovika, nudi nam sobu u prijatelja, zove ga na mobitel, sve je riješeno začas. Kad smo došli do apartmana, čovik se predstavlja ka Špar. I onda se tek lupnemo po čelu. Jer od početka još u kafiću sve nam se čini kao da smo to već jednom doživjeli. Isti kafić, isti problem, isti dobar čovik i savjetnik, a na kraju završili smo i u isti krevet kod već poznatog nam Špara. Di ćemo mi nać spavanje nego kod Špara. Nego smo mogli kod Šanpjera. A sad šta ćemo sa spizom. Idemo u Ugljan. Autom se ne može. Pitamo di je ludnica da ne skrenemo krivo, s puta i s pameti. Pa skrećemo obratno - za Muline. Restoran uz more, isprid mandrača, a par koraka dalje se mo’š okupat. Reklama je da ima na drva gradele i peče srdele i biftek. Njoj biftek, meni srdele, ludnica – prosječno ćemo platit kao za miješano meso.

RIBANJE Jutarnja bonaca u malome mistu Poljana na sjevernoj obali otoka Ugljana. Lipo prede brodski motor ribara koji se vraća u mandrač. Diga je mriže. A jedan na mulu već čisti ribu. Do njega se sunča jutarnja skupljačica sunca. Na fotografiji bi čovik reka da će i Ona doć na red. Obje su riba, svaka na svoj način.

SVE U 16 Znači, s trajekta ćete se iskrcat u Tkon, prelistajte svaku valu, misto i gradić. Na otoku Pašman morate vidit Barotul, Pašman, Mrljane, Neviđane, Dobropoljanu, Banj, a na Ugljanu redom Kukljicu, Kali, Preko, Poljanu, Sutomišćicu, Lukoran, Ugljan, Muline i Lamljane na južnu stranu. Od mista do mista, za guštat sve u šesnaest.

BRAVO, FIFE! Prilazi sa simpatijama gazdarica i ulazi šarmantno s nama u priču. Da je odmah prepoznala da smo iz Splita. Često svrati do Splita. Ima prijatelje i rodbinu, tamo je studirala. Obožava Splićane. I sve čekamo da prijeđe na stvar. U čemu je… A, evo je, govori da nam nema smisla čekat iz leda. Pa nisu srdele iz leda. Nisu nego biftek, a srdele nema jer je pun mjesec. I šta ćemo onda? Najbolje vam je miješano meso. Miješano meso se najbolje lovi na pun misec, sad se već zezamo ka stari prijatelji, a gazdarica poručuje da pozdravimo gazdu Dragana Sekulića, da je konoba Fife prvak svita. A što ste to jeli, pitamo je iz gušta. Ma nemam pojma, ne mogu se sjetiti, ali atmosfera je bitna, to je nezaboravno i otvara apetit. Večerali smo u Kukljicu. Srdela-snack. Čudo od konobice uz more, slušaš cilo vrime dalmatinske klape i kako se frigaju srdele, srdeline, lignjice, girice, kozice, papaline, gavuni, sipice… Jedino nije bilo špara. Onda smo kod njega pošli leć.

BY BOAT AND CAR

Text and photo by Elizabeta & Mario Garber

ould you be a nautical enthusiast without a boat, is it the same as a sailor without the sea? Sure, anything is possible. You can rent a boat anywhere you like, a small one, a raft, a sailboat, even a ferry. A ferry – how’s that possible? This was our route: We got a small boat in the town on Rogač on Šolta. The weather forecast called for bura winds of hurricane proportions. Well, these days, even the forecast looks like a tabloid. So, if you’re not particularly good at writing, you hype up your news item and turn the bura into something epic, thus making your piece more entertaining.

FROM ROGAČ TO TKON We knew that the bura in Rogač was going to cause us trouble only for a short while, and so we decided to set sail and follow the bura all the way up to Karlobag and Senj. Our Betalina must be the slowest boat on the Adriatic, and it took her about two hours to get to Split. If Croatia truly understood how tourism works, our weather experts would give us coordinates telling us where we could take some nice photos of the bura, but we have no clue, so we criticize meteorologists about how they are forcing tourists away. One of the most memorable sights for tourists in this area is the bura wind in Senj, and it could be the reason some come back again. Bura should be molded into a Croatian brand. In our case, the wind went flat quickly, so we returned to Biograd where we ‘rented’ a ferryboat. We use the term ‘rent’ because what you do is you buy a ticket for yourself and your car, which is about one hundred Kunas. And that basically gives you the entire ferry for ten minutes. That’s how long it takes for a ferry to get to Tkon, a village on the Island of Pašman. After that, you take the bridge to Ugljan, which is fairly quick. Both islands are located on the coastal line from Biograd to Zadar and Vir, so it only takes a couple of hours to visit every settlement on both islands.

Oī to Šolta by boat, then to Karlobag by car, followed by which are connected by bridg

BURA IS A CRO YOU DON’T KNOW WHERE YOU ARE?!

The bridge that takes us from Pašman to Ugljan is an ideal place to take photos of the huge fleet of boats that frequent the Adriatic via the well-known Ždrelac passage. Some are going to shore, to Zadar or Biograd, while others are sailing off, towards Dugi otok and Kornati Islands. So, this is a crucial point. You can get to Ugljan by car, using the bridge from Pašman, and stop on the island’s north side to look at the amazing archipelago of the area, featuring places like Iž, Rivanj, Sestrunj, Molat and Ist. It’s less than a one-hour drive from Pašman to Ugljan, it’s no more than twenty nautical miles, and our car is super fast when compared to our ten-kilometers-per-hour boat. If you’re taking our route, we recom-

mend that as soon as you get off the ferry in Tkon, go left, outside town, climb atop the hill with the church on top, and take a look – from there, you get a nice view of Vrgada, and to the south side, Kornati Islands and Žirje. If you look to the open sea, you’ll see the neighbor to Pašman and Ugljan, Žut Island, Kornati Islands and Dugi otok. The Lamljana Cove on Ugljan is also a nice place to visit. Ferry boats go from Biograd on a regular basis. It’s a rare occasion if you have to wait for one. Except if you have a situation like the one we had, where the owner of a car parked on the dock didn’t show up, thus creating a jam and making it impossible for the ferry to leave. I guess the car owner forgot how he came to Biograd. This can happen if you travel for work every day, sometimes a couple of times a day, and you’re going back

y a ‘rental’ ferryboat to the islands of Pašman and Ugljan, ge above the Ždrelac Passage

OATIAN BRAND and forth from island to land. You forget where you are and where you parked. Let’s just say this is an interesting place to visit, and an interesting route to take. You’ll see, later on, that we also had a similar situation, as we had forgotten where out car was, on the island or on land.

ANNULAR BREAM AND ST. PIERRE’S FISH There’s not a spare bed on the island, no vacant rooms or apartments. They’re even making fun of us – just for one night? Yeah, right. The bridge across the Ždrelac Passage, connecting Pašman and Ugljan, is a sight to see, but it has been stocking up on apartment complexes and luxury villas, all for rent. All the luxury boats that pass under the bridge can’t have a mast taller than seven meters. As soon as you get to Ugljan, you have to take a right turn to Ždrelaštica, a small town filled with what seems like an endless series of apartment homes by the coast. Who’s sleeping at such expensive rates? The first cafe we visit, the owner scares us with stories about no vacancies for one night, while we try to explain to him that there must be, for five hundred Kunas a night. We had no choice but to continue to Ugljan. Maybe it’s best to leave our car and take the ferry to Zadar, spend the night in a secluded city house, and the hotels are also cheaper there than they are on Ugljan. But, in the morning, we wouldn’t know where the car was, or where we were. Suddenly, our luck changed, in Sutomišćica. A wonderful little tavern to have a beer. The locals ask us where we’re from and before you know it, a man shows up, offers us accommodation at his friend’s place, he calls him up and everything is settled within minutes.

When we get to our apartment, our host introduces himself under the name of Špar (Annular Bream) Wow, what a moment. It seems as if we went through this same scenario before. Same cafe, same problem, same helpful people, we even end up sleeping in the same bed we did before, at Špar’s place. Who else would help us? A guy named St. Pierre’s Fish perhaps? Now, we have to eat. We have to go to Ugljan. We can’t go by car. We ask for directions, because we don’t want to drive to the insane asylum, which is also on the island. So we take a different path and go to Muline. There’s a restaurant by the sea there, almost on the beach. The signs says they have a charcoal grill and their specialties are srdelas and stakes. She’ll take the stake, I’ll take the srdelas, everyone’s happy. We’ll end up spending as much as we would if we ordered a plate of mixed meat.

KUDOS, FIFE! Our host is a sympathetic woman and we start chatting straight away. She knew we were from Split as soon as she saw us. She goes there quite often, she has friends and family in the city, it’s where she attended university. She loves people from Split. But, we’re still waiting for her to tell us about the food. She says there’s no reason for us to order stuff from the freezer. Aren’t those srdelas fresh? No, the stake is, and there are no fresh srdelas because of the full moon. So, what are we going to eat? Our best option is a plate of mixed meat. It seems that a full moon means mixed meat season, and we’re talking to our host as if we were old friends. She says to give her regards to Dragan Sekulić, owner of the Fife Tavern in Split, which she considers a champion amongst taverns. Well, what the she eat at Fife’s? She says she can’t remember, but the atmosphere was crucial, it was unforgettable and appetite inducing. We eat dinner at Kukljic. A srdela-snack shack. An amazing little tavern by the sea, where you eat and listen to traditional Dalmatian songs mixed with the sounds of sredelas frying in a pan, as well as sardines, squid, picarel, prawn, sprat, gavun, cuttlefish... The only thing missing were annual sea breams. After eating, it was time to sleep at our friend’s place.

Fotogenična Maslinica

GlasoviƟ neurokirurg dr. Josip Paladino redovito se odmara u malom ribarskom mjestu svoga dide na zapadu Šolte

Piše Mario Garber

aslinica je raj na zemlji. Ali zimi! Reći će vam Zlatan Zoričić. U prvom broju Lučkog vjesnika prošle godine Zlatan nam je ispričao sve o moru, jedrenju, ribolovu, najljepšim skrovitim uvalama na našim otocima, pa čak i o konobama za lizat prste. Drugim riječima, Zlatan Zoričić je za more što i dr. Paladino za njegovo «more izliječenih». Naime, svi Paladinovi su iz Maslinice na Šolti. Nadaleko poznati naš neurokirurg Josip Paladino na Šolti svake godine provede tri do četiri tjedna uvrh glave, koliko mu njegov poziv dozvoli. Ne samo posao nego poziv. To

je nešto uzvišeno i dodatno. Kaže da se ode u Maslinicu uglavnom dobro naspavat. Nisam mu htio kvarit veselje, ali zamisli sudbine doć u Maslinicu i prespavat ljeto?! – E a šta mislite da je to malo? Žena se ujutro spusti po kruh, to je ritual na škoju, a ja ustanem malo kasnije i pokrenem svu djecu po kući. Onda pročitaš novine i bude ti drago kad vidiš da se gradonačelnik Splita pozabavio Hajdukovim stadionom. Je li vidite koju idilu vam opisujem. – A isto ne vjerujem da vas Šoltani ne otkriju čim stignete… – Pa je, ima ljudi koji iskoriste da ne idu u Zagreb pa da im vidim neke njihove nalaze i snimke. Ovdje se ja ne mogu sakriti. Dida mi je 1926. sagradio kuću, a mogao je birati gdje će jer je dolje na žalu bilo svega par kuća. Čak i danas zimi ovi moji nabroje tu, evo, 63 mještana. Među njima su moj brat Igor, svestrani panulaš i Zlatan koji je isto lud

SAN L S NEnW T R d PO isla hit

LJETA

za tim i onda oni tu među otocima uživaju, blago im se, i drago mi je da netko barem nadoknađuje to što ja propuštam. Dr. Paladino hvali i ovu novu Maslinicu koja je postala turistički hit s marinom i sigurnim vezom: – Maslinica je takvo simpatično malo ribarsko misto i neće ona nikad postat ono što je Hvar ili Zrće, pa zato nema straha, neka se to još unapređuje za nautičare. Neka Maslinica bude jedan od brendova tog prekrasnog otoka Šolte koja mami svojim otočićima na zapadnoj obali i uvalama na južnoj strani! Samo, jedva čekam da nam Zlatan «operira» motor, pokvaren je, a valja nam s djecom na more.

KOMIŽA JUST LIKE IN MIDSUMMER EWoSrt N T R PO t rep n

i repr

t doesn’t take much more than to count all the sailboats, stern by stern, tie your boat to that spectacular dock which is always open - in every sense, and you’ll know what it feels like to enter the port of Komiža on the Island of Vis. You’ll feel intoxicated from the sea, sunshine, salt, the Plavac wine sort of Vis, and drunk from the very life which pulsates deep into the night, and is present in every tiny street, tavern, disco, on every beach and under the starlit night sky that has almost come down close to you. You have to take

in every drop of Vis, and you’ll realize that you have created yourself one unforgettable memory, an experience worth reliving.

FLEETS FROM SWEDEN You get the same feeling even if you’re there on business, doing a photo report about this original docking bay situated in an ancient port, a location from which historical and mythical galleys would set sail into the open seas of the future, all the way

up till present day. Well, just like a couple of days ago, May 27th 2013 to be more precise, when a group of youths from Sweden arrived in Komiža. – At the end of the school year we get all kinds of group trips, like, for example, graduation trips – Smiljana Repanić explains to us. Smiljana works for Nautički centar Komiža, a tourist company that takes care of guests and nautical tourists of all sorts. – There’s groups of young scientists attending seminars and meetings, various ex-

TAKING LIFE T 14

cursions, groups of explorers or even adventurers. Sometimes, up to fifty sailboats arrive in Komiža at once, and most of them are sent there by the Yacht Week company, which is focused on three important locations: Croatia, Krete and Thailand. They are known for bringing up to two hundred sailboats in a single journey, and they travel together for a week or two, spending a couple of days each in our small coastal towns. They enjoy getting to know our islands, where they can get some rest and relaxation, party and discover

the joys of life – Smiljana Repanić explains, speaking from experience.

THEY WORK AROUND THE CLOCK The docks of Komiža are open around the clock. Many guests pick their own boat stern as the perfect party spot, while others take journeys to narrow town streets, visit shops, taverns and cafes. Others, seeking change

from a predominantly fish menu, go uphill to have a taste of traditional meat delicacies. Naturally, sports enthusiasts also come here, and enjoy kayaking, hiking, cycling, even cricket. That’s why you’ll hear about Komiža, Biševo, Croatia and the Adriatic Sea in all corners of the world.

Photoreport Mario Garber

TO THE STERN 15

Čovjek i grad

EWCSO N T S POR UNE er

und

erolim Ostojić je zbilja svašta, svašta radio, svašta živio, nadao se. I zafrkant je, voli društvo, prijatelje, znance, običaje. Pa onako u opuštenosti, kad se šalimo, lako bi ga bilo upitati, možda bi se natjecao i s Leonardom da Vincijem, da se nije rodio 3. lipnja 1943. Nego puno prije. Udario bi me po prstima da vidi što pišem, međutim, Ostojić je uistinu sinonim za svestranost. A kako se intenzivno već dugo, cijelog života bavi i slikanjem, onda je i sinonim za Trogir. Tko može bolje od slikara osjetiti Trogir, njegove detalje kao opuse?

VJEČNI STUDENT Kad se piše o ljepotama dalmatinskih gradića i otoka, onda svakome ruka poleti za onim najmanjim, stisnutim mjestima, uvalama i otocima. A kralj te vrsti ljepote je Trogir. I UNESCO ga čuva. Minijatura, a tako velik, Trogirčić je Trogirčina prema Splitu, Zadru, Šibeniku, pa čak i Dubrovnik bi se mogao tu i tamo zamislit sretajući se s Trogirom. Njegov ugođaj škatulice kao i svih dalmatinskih gradova s voltima, portalima, vratima grada na sve strane svijeta, kaletama skrivenim i poluskrivenim od sunca... Osjećaš se baš dobro i intimno, kao u mladosti, u svojoj sobici. A ne radi se o zatvorenosti. Nego u tome kontrapunktu i jest draž. Pa Ostojić kao jedan od mnogih gradonačelnika Trogira, uspio je kao slikar u sebi i svojim radovima svima izloženim, uspio je sublimirat sve te priče. Crtao, slikao, pisao, studirao pravo, matematiku, fiziku, medicinu, pitajboga što sve ne, a bavio se i sportom. Je li moguće to sve stavit u jednoga Jerolima rođenog nedavno 1943. A iz 1974. potječe članak što ga je pisao Ivica Mlivončić, ekspert Slobodne Dalmacije za kulturu i crkvu, u povodu Ostojićeve izložbe u Zagrebu. Od tada ga se naziva pravim tragačem u slikarstvu. I Mlivončić pokušava sve ukrcat u jedan tekst, a to je tek mladi čovik iz 1974. Nakon Klasične gimnazije (one od 8 godina) u Splitu, što zbog studiranja, što zbog sporta i njegovih izložbi, mladić je brzo naredao iskustva, Zagreb, Rijeka, Dubrovnik, Osijek, Novi Vinodolski, Travnik, Cagliari, Chicago, Beč, Budimpešta...

HAJDUK, JUGOPLASTIKA Posvuda je izlagao, posvuda studirao, a ponešto i diplomirao kao pravo, te matematiku i fiziku, magistrirao pravo mora... Ne mo’š sve nabrojit, bio je kao i profesionalni sportaš,

Jerolim Ostojiđ, pravnik, diplomirao pravo mora, vodio emisije o mo profesionalni rukometaš, navijaē Hajduk

Interview by Mario Garber

atletičar i rukometaš u Trogiru, Splitu, Zagrebu i Rijeci. A s njim se možete upoznati više puta, na primjer u Litvi u čarter-avionu za nastup hrvatske nogometne reprezentacije, jer je pratio sve živo uz Hajduka i Jugoplastiku u ona najbolja vremena. Evo bi se skoro zaboravilo – bavio se i scenografijom, u monodrami Joška Ševe „Govorite li hrvatski?“, a pisanjem se orijentirao na pravnu i ekološku tematiku s naglaskom na morskom okolišu. Zato je i autor radio-emisija o moru i zaštiti morskog okoliša. Prepoznat će ga i svakodnevni svit sa splitske ili trogirske rive, iz kafića, konoba, sa izložbi i promocija, angažiranih i neangažiranih skupova, Jerolim nije škrtario na životu i dok nekidan šetate s njim po Trogiru, vidi se koliko ga svita pozna. Padaju i dosjetke, pa onda i pitanje – a šta smo se uvatili Jerolima? Nema ništa posebno i zašto bi moralo bit, dovoljno je reć da je Jerolim priča o Trogiru.

oru i okolišu, profesor matemaƟke i Įzike, slikar, student medicine, ka i JugoplasƟke, gradonaēelnik Trogira...

govori o tome da su iza toga stajali posebni ljudi, rijetke vrijednosti, plemstva i tradicije...

ZA DOBRO ZDRAVLJE

Ime je dobio po didi Jerolimu, sidimo isprid stare kuće na samom početku šetnice uz Fošu, kanal koji otočić Trogir odvaja od kopna na sjevernoj obali, kako ga odvaja i spaja mostom od Čiova na južnoj obali. Dida Jerolim je imao dva sina, Ratka i Korada. A unuku, našem Jerolimu, Korado je barba, a Ratko otac.

KORADO I GAVRAN – Korado je bio poznat po bačvariji tu odmah na ulazu u Trogir, svi su ga znali, stajao bi tu sa svojim gavranom na ramenu, a znao je pripitomiti i druge beštije. Jedna njegova guska je posvuda trčala za njim ka pasić, u stvari ka guska. Pa je imao i vrana. Ali nenadmašan je bio taj njegov gavran koji je znao i reći, ludi Korado, vidi onu lipu žensku tamo... Gavrana su poznavali i u Splitu jer bi sletija na platformu dvokatnog busa pa bi skočija do Splita i sam bi se vratija nazad. A Korado je među prvima ima auto, popularnu bubu. Kad bi prolazija kroz Kaštela, dočekali bi ga ovacijama. Lipo je proživija, dočeka i Hrvatsku, od bačvarije učinija kafić Korado, baš negdi u doba 1994./1997. za gradonačelnika Trogira Jerolima Ostojića, čovika o kojemu su snimili i nešto filma uoči Univerzijade u Zagrebu 1987. Jerolima su predstavili ka vječnog studenta. Ko zna šta će upisat u svojoj sedamdesetoj...

kojemu neće trebati repeticije. Nikad mi to kao profesoru nije bilo jasno zašto bi nakon mog sata i objašnjenja ijednom učeniku trebale repeticije. Gotovo djetinje pošteni prema poslu, takvi Jerolimi ostali su do danas sanjari. Ali Jerolim gradonačelnik daleko je od toga, njegovi su stavovi konkretni, materijalizirani kao što slikarski govori o svjetlu, svjetlosti, elektromagnetskom valu... Ostojić je temeljit, nije slučajno i diplomirani pravnik s položenim pravosudnim ispitom. – Iz doba gradonačelništva pamtim i 1995. te oslobađanje Knina, jedno vrijeme koje nije iskorišteno za ispunjavanje obećanja. Šteta za sve nas jer Trogir kojemu sam se uvijek vraćao iako sam stalno putovao pa i bio zaposlen van Trogira – taj moj stari Trogir ipak nekako napreduje. Nije lako ni naškodit gradu s takvim korijenima. Svaki kamenčić, portalčić, stupić,

O Trogiru danas Ostojić kaže: – Uhvati me koji put panika da ćemo potonuti usred ljeta kad nahrupe sa svih strana svijeta u Trogir. Ali baš svi, turisti, pustolovi, prosjaci, umjetnici, istraživači... Međutim, iako ova naša obala polako tone, za Trogir nema straha, haha, navikli smo i sve smo naviknutiji. Trogir je u biti prvi rastegao turističku sezonu na cijelu godinu. Jer to nije samo turizam. Svi dolaze u Trogir. A mogao bi Trogir sve to i artikulirati, osmisliti i pretočiti u ciljani projekt za kongresni i zdravstveni turizam. I kad je kiša, po Trogiru se šeta s guštom, a di ćeš lipše nego hodat i šetat za zdravlje, ali tako da šetajući imaš šta i za vidit. Isto ka da si u Veneciji... Jerolim je proslavio 70. rođendan i u ovoj životnoj fazi sve više se okreće svojoj najvećoj ljubavi slikarstvu. S prijateljima Ostojić radi i na pokretanju međunarodne likovne kolonije u Trogiru, s iskustvom umjetnika koji je uspio prirediti 20 samostalnih izložbi. – Dugo se nisam mogao odlučiti između sporta i umjetnosti, bavio sam se i atletikom, igrao sam rukomet i profesionalno, Kandija me podupirao kao veliki talent, poslije ću postati i predsjednikom rukometnog Trogira. Međutim, u ovim godinama ipak je lakše slikat nego trčat.

SAN GRADONAČELNIKA Svestrani Jerolim nije bio kako bi se pretpostavilo pustolov, kad je već postao i gradonačelnikom Trogira. Profesionalno je bio srednjoškolski profesor matematike i fizike, radio u Graditeljskoj školi u Splitu, pa bio i ravnateljem između 1990. i 1993. Onda postaje gradonačelnikom Trogira i bit će to do 1997. – Šteta da se ipak nije ostvarila ona Hrvatska koju smo tada u zanosu po završetku rata i potpunom osamostaljenju s pravom i sanjali. Na primjer, onako rečeno po svakodnevici, ja sam mislio da ćemo konačno dobiti školstvo

This is a man who lived as an illustrator, painter, writer, a student of law, math, physics, medicine, who knows what else and he was also an athlete. Slobodna Dalmacija’s journalist Ivica Mlivončić wrote about him as a painter in 1974, and even back then, it was hard to summarize the life of Ostojić. After finishing a classical high school education (which was an eight-year school in those days) in Split, Ostojić began traveling as an

PORTRET NEWS

Jerolim Ostojiđ, a Renaissance Man from Trogir. Pro

Report from Trogir

erolim Ostojić is a Renaissance Man from Trogir, and an ideal character if you’re in search of a person who would perfectly represent your hometown. An enthusiastic explorer, Jerolim has lived in many cities as if they were his own, but he has never left Trogir as his permanent residence. - As an athlete, I moved around a lot, even more so when I was a student, and as a painter after that. I roamed the globe, exhibiting art, showcasing my paintings and graphic design work. There wasn’t a place where I was a stranger, I’d blend in instantly with which ever city I visited. However, no matter how much Trogir has changed – as all cities do, they gain new citizens – I never thought about leaving Trogir. Not even when I was living in Split.

TROGIR ON A FIRST NAME BASIS At the beginning of summer, Ostojić celebrated his 70th birthday, and it’s just now that he’s enjoying Trogir again, just like when he was young. In the summertime, Trogir grows and an overwhelming feeling pops up. - It’s like Trogir becomes a city of the

JERO THE PERPETU word, because it truly is that. You have to love strolling across town. And it’s great to be among those who can enjoy the city throughout the year, be friends with the city, and bask in its autumn, winter and spring intimate moments. There’s not much to do here, you can walk from one end of town to the other in a flash, from one bridge to the other one, it’s basically the same time needed to drink a cup of coffee. Trogir is small, but it’s also a giant, a king among endless small Dalmatian towns. It’s protected by UNESCO. Its ambiance is that of a small jewelery box, just like any other Dalmatian town, with its narrow streets and portals, city gates which lead to all corners of the world – a place where you can feel the same joy you felt as a kid, playing in your room. It’s not that this is an introverted place, but there is juxtaposition that makes Trogir special, big and small at the same time, and vice avers. Our Renaissance Man of Trogir has somehow managed to embody this story, and at the same time, tell it to the outside world. After all, he was even the Mayor of Trogir.

student, athlete and artist, and has been all over: Zagreb, Rijeka, Dubrovnik, Osijek, Novi Vinodolski, Travnik, Cagliari, Chicago, Vienna and Budapest.

DO YOU SPEAK CROATIAN? Mlivončić wrote about Ostojić some forty years ago. „He was born one early summer in Trogir, a city that’s a museum by itself, sunny, shadowy, a city on the sea, a city that’s sometimes sinking, but also a city which connects the entire world. A city that’s unknown and famous at the same time, a city being rediscovered all the time, a city big and small, with grand buildings and derelict rooftops...“ In 2001, while exhibiting at the Croatian Pan-European Union building in Zagreb, an article entitled ‘Truth and Beauty’ (published by ‘Hrvatsko slovo’ in December of 2001), described Ostojić as a seeker from Trogir, a man who’s in search of the many possibilities of painting. He has a degree from law school, math and physics and has an MBA in nautical law. You can’t possibly list all the things he’s done, even as an athlete and a handball

ofessor, scienƟst, athlete, painter and even a mayor.

OLIM, UAL STUDENT player in Trogir, Split, Zagreb and Rijeka. You can meet him in all sorts of situations, like on board a charter flight heading to Lithuania, where he went to as an avid fan of Hajduk and Jugoplastika in their prime. We almost forgot – Ostojić was also a set director, and has created the scenery used in Joško Ševa’s mono-drama ‘Do You Speak Croatian?’. In his writing, he has focused on environmental issues, with an emphasis on sea life. He was also involved in creating radio shows about sea life and its preservation. Ostojić was also featured in a movie, in the role of a perpetual student. This was a movie about Univerzijada Zagreb, 1987. People recognize him all the time, in Split and in Trogir, on the promenade, in the cafes and taverns, at exhibitions and promotions, at activist and non-activist gatherings. Ostojić is not a man who was stingy about life. We went for a walk with him the other day, and everyone in Trogir knows him. People greet him and joke around, and we just have to ask – why this man in particular? There’s nothing extra special to be said, apart from the fact that Jerolim himself is a story about Trogir.

KORADO’S RAVEN Ostojić was named after his grandad Jerolim. We’re sitting in front of an old house at the top of Foša, the channel which separates the tiny Trogir island from the northern mainland, near the Čiovo channel on its south side. Grandpa Jerolim had two sons, Ratko and Korado. Ratko is our Jerolim’s dad, while Korado is his uncle. - Korado was a famous barrel maker, his shop was on the entrance of Trogir, everyone knew him. He’d spend his time in front of his shop, with his raven resting on his shoulder, but he also knew how to tame other animals. He had a goose that would follow him around like a dog. Well, like a goose, actually. But that raven, he was something special, he even knew how to say a couple of phrases, like ‘What’s up crazy Korado, see that beautiful lady over there’. Well, Korado loved the ladies. Korado’s Raven became an icon of Trogir and carried the spirit of his owner, as he was a joker himself, as weird as that might seem. It seems not so long ago that Korado was in his spot at the entrance to Trogir, in front

of his shop, right near the bridge. His raven was so much like him that he would even joke around with the tourists. And many will remember ‘Radovan’, a fancy downtown restaurant... - Korado’s raven would come from out of nowhere and grab a stake right from someone’s plate. Our tourists thought it was hilarious. I guess the raven had his laugh as well. Those were the days. This raven was known even by the people of Split, because he knew how to climb up on a double decker bus and take a road trip to Split and back, on his own. Korado was one of the first people in the area to own a car, and he had a VW Beetle. When he would drive through Kaštela, the people would cheer. He had a good life, saw the independence of Croatia, and turned his shop into Cafe Korado when Jerolim was mayor, some time between 1994 and 1997.

The sea and the dog

Vando Raunig is a known Split-based veterinarian, open to everyone, sailors included, weekends, included, any Ɵme

A SHIP’S PET W

hen a man has a pet, then said pet is more important than the man. Now, imagine what’s it like owning a pet on a boat. It’s practically common knowledge that you must have a cat on board your boat if you want to get rid of rats, but a dog is just as good, and let’s not forget eccentric sea captains who would pay more attention to their parrot then their crew.

Vando is famous around these parts, and he doesn’t remember a vacation, not even a Saturday or Sunday when he could rest. Sometimes, he gets called up in the middle of the night, but no matter the time, Vando is quick to act and in no time, he’ll be ready for you, waiting at his office at Bačvice in Split. Once you get to know him, he’ll seem unreal, as he is a quiet man who loves animals, but despite his calm demeanor, he’s direct, professional and efficient. If you’re sailing in the Split area or a just a tourist in Central Dalmatia, you should have Vando Raunig’s phone number nearby. Raunig was just a child when he decided to become a veterinarian. - Back then, veterinary medicine wasn’t as developed as it is today, especially for smaller animals. I lived in a family house with my grandad, so we had a large backyard. It was here in Bačvice, at Viška Street, that I befriended dogs, cats and other animals. From early on, it was clear what I’ll do for a living. Although, I was also in love with the sea. My grandad was a real

In 1922, Hajduk established a female team, and the first goal was scored by Šime Raunig’s wife, Vanda. Grandson Vando was named after her. Grandpa Šime scored a goal with his nee, and like a ball being passed, the Hajduk connection was passed on from generation to generation, and Vando ended up marrying the daughter of Hajduk coach Mićo Duvančić Snježana Raunig is know for creating ceramic shoes, fish and other figures, as she’s an established artists with numerous exhibitions in her career, but she is introverted and likes to keep to herself, so she enjoys being creative far away from the public, in her own peace and quiet atmosphere.

crews with whom I used to go to regattas in Komiža and Vis. Vando has a big heart. Not only is he a caring, professional veterinarian, he also loves helping. He recalls occasions when people are almost helpless, because their boat pet is ill.

By Mario Garber

After this introduction, it’s no surprise that in Central Dalmatia, knowing top veterinarian Vando Raunig is very important indeed. He is loved among the people of Split and their pets, and his popularity among boat pets keeps growing. Vando gets called up for medical emergencies on boats quite often! There’s always a tourist with a sick dog or another ailing pet, and pets are more important than humans, so to say.

GRANDMA AND WIFE

sea-dog, he loved everything to do with boats, and you could say he had hands of gold. We have to point out that grandad had feet of gold as well. Vando’s grandad was Šime Raunig, member of the first Hajduk Football Club team generation, and also the man who scored their first goal ever, representing Split. That was in 1911. However, despite being an athlete, his love for the sea was stronger, he loved sea-based sports and boats. - As a kid, I was known for my small boat, I didn’t have a sail, but I had paddles, so my friends and I would paddle from Trstenik to Firule. Later on, I tried sailing, as an amateur and nothing more, and I was a member of two

- I remember one time, some tourists found a dog in the middle of Brač Channel. What can I say, this dog was basically swimming in the middle of nowhere. Who knows what was going on with this poor dog, but they brought him to me and we saved him. I used to go all over the place, every marina in Split, clubs, anywhere where there’s an emergency. At Labud, everyone knew I’d help out their dog Klempo, if he needed any shots, but I’d help pout any other animal in need, regardless of the fact if they were someone’s pet or not. Vando points out that, when you’re on a boat, you need to educate yourself about nautical life, just to avoid panic-inducing situations. - Everyone knows what kind of medical interventions are common on boats: insect bites, allergic reactions, heat strokes... I love the sea and I have this idea of veterinary medicine at sea, but who know if I’ll live long enough to implement those plans.

Photo report from Hvar: Ultra Europe FesƟval’s nightly aŌer parƟes and daily R&R on Paklenjaci Islands

AN ISLAND THAT NEVER SLEEPS •Hvar, world-known hot spot for party goers •The after party of Split’s Ultra Europe Festival •A report from the extra ferry boat line for party goers

Text and photos Segor Garber

uring the summer, Hvar is the most important hot spot for party goers in Croatia. It’s been this way for years, so Hvar is known around the globe as a great tourist destination, but also as a party center. This is why Hvar was chosen as the ideal place to host the after parties following Split’s Ultra Europe Festival.

ULTRA PORT NEWS

ur after party kicked off with guests, tourists, electronic music fans and festival enthusiasts, as we all took the same ferry to Hvar. You see, Ultra was so crowded that additional ferry lines had to be introduced, so party goers could attend after parties on Hvar. That’s how we got there, by a packed ferry boar, arriving in Hvar at noon on Sunday.

FERRY WITHOUT CARS Any local I asked told me the same, they had never seen such a crowded ferry boat. People were sitting everywhere, on each other, the boat was packed to the brim. Suddenly I realized, this has to be the first time a ferry boat going from Split to Hvar was without any cars. Funny, really. A boat designed to carry cars without any cars on board. So, we arrive at the Riva in Hvar, and it’s an amazing sight: the

conquest of Hvar! People were literally flooding the town. Music could be heard well outside of town, tourists were everywhere, and everyone was in a good mood, having drinks, hanging out, trying to find their own piece of shade to chill out. The after party lasted till midnight. Many were commenting that that’s not enough, but nobody complained much, and no incidents occurred. That’s amazing, considering how many people from all over the world attend the festival in Split; there were tens of thousands, so things went better than expected.

NEW YORK AT NIGHT The town looked incredible, like it had become New York for that one night. Everything was colorful, all the streets and squares were crowded with people in swimsuits, giraffe costumes, wolves, Supermen, all sorts of at-

tire, so Hvar looked like it was the host of an international carnival. We even saw some guys dressed as ballerinas in pink, making sure that no oddity was labeled as being out of the ordinary. Next day, we went for a walk around town, expecting to see Hvar in its usual edition, but there was none of that. Parties continued from night into day with the same crowd. Even though after parties ended at midnight, everyone who was faced with a closed club decided to buy drinks at local stores and kiosks, so getting supplies wasn’t tough. So, the party continued on the promenade. I met an old high school buddy of mine, and we talked about Hvar. He’s local, Hvar has been his home his entire life, so I wanted to know what he thought about this huge party taking over his home, was it insufferably noisy, and how did this 24/7 partying affect the town. Hvar just doesn’t sleep, ever.

BEST PARTY ISLAN

Tourists take over town • No incidents, parties last from night into day • Giraffes, wolves, Supermen, guys dressed

JEROLIM FOR NUDISTS The most important news item for him this season is that Carpe Diem is finally owned by the same person as the Veneranda Disco. You see, while those two clubs had different owner, they were each others toughest competitors. Because they were always trying to one-up each other, people always had to chose between two awesome parties, which meant one party had to be left out. Now, there’s only one owner, and he makes sure both clubs get an equal number of events. See, when you live on an island that never sleeps, you’d be surprised by some of the problems the locals have. Anyway, as we were chatting, we came to the conclusion that this after party wasn’t amazing because it followed Ultra Europe, but because it was happening on Hvar. So, two days into our four-day trip to

Hvar, we had to dedicate our last two days to rest and relaxation. We decided to take a taxi boat to one of the Paklenjaci Islands, and we ended up on Sveti Jerolim (Saint Jerome). We actually didn’t know where we were exactly going until our taxi boat made its final stop. This is actually important. You see, Sveti Jerolim is a nudist beach. I respect everyone’s style, but once the beach got crowded by everyone, including grannies... Well, it was more intense than any after party, but we had to get out of there, just not our thing really. Also, most of the people there were our seniors.

FANCY STIPANSKA We did manage to find a beautifully decorated cafe on the tiny island, everything home-made and original, constructed from pine tree branches, boats, or beach pebbles.

We spent half the day relaxing in swings hanging from nearby trees. Our second taxi boat trip took us to Stipanska, where we also had a great day at the beach. Stipanska is a bit more fancy. Maybe because it’s the home of the Carpe Diem Club, which has amazing armchairs, a volleyball court and all sorts of features. More importantly, it has a bathroom, which is something you won’t find at Sveti Jerolim’s. Nudist don’t need bathrooms, right? Stipanska also has the most expensive water I’ve encountered, at 35 Kunas per liter. It’s better to drink anything but water while there, it’s more expensive, but at least you won’t feel bad for paying too much for water alone. Obviously, Hvar offers two types of vacation, so choose wisely.

ND IN THE WORLD

d as ballerinas in pink, almost like a carnival • Tourist and locals become friends, tourist spend, locals count profit

HVAR AFTER NOBODY Meeting tourists in Hvar is truly unusual. These two are from France and Holland. You’ll notice that one of them is black, but that’s worth mentioning only because of our mutual ribbing. The other guy is European. I had to play this into our conversation Man, you got style! His friend immediately cuts in: – And I don’t, huh? Of course you don’t, you look lame, so you’re Mister Nobody. – I was quick to stress that out. But, if it were not for style-less guys like you, how could we tell the other guy actually does have style? We had such a good laugh that we quickly became friends and got to know each other better, but they disappeared at some moment. After some time, I run into the French guy, so I asked him where ‘Nobody’ went off, and his stylish reply was: – Disappeared!

R PLUS ULTRA

DANGEROUS MASTS

ICE CREAM

This guy with ice cream on his face... His girlfriend did it, and when I asked him about the how and the why, he started asking me what was going on and where he was going. So I told him, as I laughed behind the camera – you’re getting published. His performance was worthy of a show.

The taxi boat helmsman spoke to us about the troubles tourist face while on Hvar, because they get loose and rowdy, and start handing from the mast right where the boat’s tent is tied down, and quite often, they end up overboard. And hey, you can’t catch them all. AUSTRALIA This Australian gang, wearing giraffe costumes, came here because their homeland doesn’t have such wild festivals. They’re thrilled, relaxed, the only thing keeping them grounded is the prices. They say that Hvar is much more expensive than Split. Josh Duke and Nick Uhetham concurr. This guy wearing ice cream on his face... His girlfriend is responsible, and when I asked him why she did it, he just asked me where was he and what was going on... I had a good laugh and told him he’s gonna get published. His performance was enough to qualify as a show.

NAJPARTY OTOK

*Nigdje incidenta, noć se nastavila u dan *Žirafe, vukovi, supermeni, momačke roza ba

tigli smo u nedjelju usred srpnja na taj spektakl kakav se priređuje dan poslije Ultra Europe festivala. Hvarski „after party“ za nas je počeo zajedno s većinom posjetitelja, turista, mladih poklonika te glazbe i spektakla, jer smo se svi našli na istome brodu. Naime, za tu sasvim nesvakidašnju zgodu i nevjerojatan interes mnoštva posjetitelja splitskog festivala moralo se organizirati dodatne linije i tako smo doputovali na otok baš tim izvanrednim trajektom u nedjelju u podne.

TRAJEKT BEZ AUTA Bio je to trajekt „Marjan“. Moglo bi se reći „Marjan Specijal“ jer je brod ubačen kao za „upomoć“, isključivo za turiste koji su u planu imali Ultra Europe festival. Koga god sam pitao od domaćih na trajektu nitko nikada nije vidio tako pun brod. Sjedilo se na podu bez reda i

pardona, po ljudima, kako se tko snašao u toj neopisivoj gužvi. Najednom mi je sinulo da je to valjda prvi trajekt u povijesti koji će preploviti rutu od Splita do Hvara bez ijednog automobila. Zbilja smiješno. Brod za prijevoz automobila potpuno krcat, a niti jednog auta na njemu. I pristali smo na rivu u Hvaru. Urnebes... Hvar je osvojen! Ljudi su potpuno preplavili prostranu hvarsku rivu. Prvo ti pada na pamet malo se odmorit, skočit u more, pa tako dočekat večer i „after“. Međutim, iznenadili smo se kad smo shvatili da je „after“ već debelo u toku. Počeo usred dana. Moćna glasna muzika čula se i daleko od Hvara, turisti kao da su preuzeli grad, svi veseli ali udomaćeni, piju, vise po zidićima, svatko se naravno bori za svoju mrvicu hlada.

NEW YORK NA NOĆ Navečer je „after“ trajao do ponoći. Čulo se komentare turista da je to ipak malo prerano, ali nitko se nije pretjerano bunio, izostao je i najmanji ispad, a ne bi bilo čudo da nakon golemog okupljanja partijanera sa svih strana svijeta u Splitu i u tolikom broju, na desetke tisuća, sigurno ne bi bilo čudo da se otkačio i

neki incident. Jednostavno će se ljubitelje ovih zabavnih spektakala u Splitu i Hvaru pamtiti po tome da gotovo nikome ništa nije tako strašno smetalo. Moralo bi tako bit kad prevladava dobro raspoloženje. Znači, u ponoć je bio kao službeni kraj, ali kritički komentar sebi u bradu bio je dovoljan i svi su svoj večernji izlazak nastavili u osobnom aranžmanu, po vlastitom izboru zaposjeli mnoge i raznolike hvarske kafiće. To kako je grad izgledao te večeri bilo je uistinu nevjerojatno, kao da se začas pretvorio u New York za jednu noć. Živopisno su izgledale kalete i pjacete, riva i trg, ljudi su šetali u kupaćim kostimima, odjeveni u žirafe, vukove, supermene, i drukčije, pa je ta sveopća svečanost zadobila i obrise karnevala sa svih strana svijeta. Zapazili smo i momke u roza baletanskim minicama, u svakom slučaju nije bilo ničega što bi se te večeri moglo proglasiti nenormalnim.

DI JE NORMALNI HVAR I sutradan smo pomislili kako bi sad bilo dobro vidjeti i onaj normalni Hvar, Hvar od inače... Hvar iz njegove svakodnevice. Ponedjeljak, e sad da vidimo stvarni Hvar. Nije

K NA SVIJETU

aletanske minice, a skoro karneval *Turisti i domaći u kompi, jedni troše, drugi zarađuju trebalo dugo da shvatimo kako se ništa nije promijenilo, noć se nastavila u sutrašnji dan, sa svim tim protagonistima, grad je vrvio od svakojakih ljudi, starih, mladih, momaka, cura, a svaka čast, sve puno dobrih namjera. Ni jedan problem niti tučnjavu nismo zatekli, valjda bih nagradu za najnepristojnijeg sigurno ja dobio za to što mi se omaklo kad sam fotografirao na ulici i ustobočio se tako malo bahato da sam zakrilio jednog od prodavača suvenira. Zakrčio sam mu put, u biti njegov izlog i nitko od mene nije mogao vidjeti brodice koje je izložio na prodaju pa se malko i naljutio... Ali jednostavno je to bila prokleto dobra noć i ništa ni od primisli a kamoli ljutnje. Začas smo okončali taj navodni strašni incident uz priču i smijeh. I evo, tek ako se potrudim bit malo i kritičan, mogu priznati da me kao i one turiste iznenadilo što u gradu zabave, tom raspojasanom ljetnjem Hvaru, kafići zatvaraju u dva u noći, ili ujutro, kako hoćete, a u Splitu se, moglo bi se reći, tada tek otvaraju.

NON-STOP TULUM Pa opet, valjda nema toga šta bi turista omelo u veselju, zabavi i opuštenosti u Hvaru.

Kome je zatvorilo kafić, odšetao je do obližnje pekare ili do trafike, dugo u noć otvorenih kioska, pa nije bio problem opskrbit se hranom ili pićem. Noć je tako potrajala makar na zidiću uz more. Sreo sam se sa starim prijateljem iz srednje škole, razmijenili smo dojmove o Hvaru. On je domaći, tu živi cijeli život i zanimalo me malo kako je njima s tim neviđenim šušurom, i s tom neizdržljivom bukom, kontinuiranim non-stop tulumom. Hvar koji nikad ne spava. Kad on nikad sretniji. Kaže, ove godine je puno bolje nego dosad, i prepričava mi smiješan ali za njega presudan problem: „Ove godine ti je firma od Carpe diema preuzela i Venerandu“... Sad ja gledam, što hoće reći, to mi i ne izgleda kao nešto što bi utjecalo na mene ako sam tu domaći pa stalno izlazim u te klubove, više manje je, mislim ja, to i nebitno. Ali on ti ga nastavlja: „Prije, dok to nije bio isti vlasnik, razvila se bila žestoka konkurencija. Čim bi jedan organizirao neku bolju zabavu, odmah bi to i drugi priredio i tako dok su oni međusobno ratovali, mi nikad nismo mogli iste večeri na dvije, hoću reći na obje super odlične zabave. E sad to više nije tako, svi veći događaji su usklađeni da se ne preklapaju.“ Eto što ti sve može biti problem kad živiš na otoku, pa k tome još u Hvaru na Hvaru. Svakako može, moj prijatelj je u pravu. I tako malo pomalo, u četiri dana provedena na Hvaru shvatili smo da nije taj prvi dan bio toliko lud zbog „after partyja“ i Ultra Europe nego da je taj Ultra Europe u stvari pronašao pravo mjesto za after party, mjesto puno turista i domaćeg svijeta.

bez obzira, neka ljudi guštaju, ali nije naš stil. A nismo ni generacija. Pronašli smo onda prekrasno uređen kafić na otočiću, niti jedan detalj štekata nije kupljen, nije „konfekcija“, nego je sve izrađeno od grana i elemenata s broda ili s plaže. Ma idealno, fino, mirno mjesto za uživanje u tišini.

FENSI STIPANSKA Tako smo pola dana proveli u ljuljačkama obješenima na improviziranoj konstrukciji među stablima. Tu smo popili dvije turske kave za dvadeset kuna. Što je više nego povoljno s obzirom na mjesto gdje smo to konzumirali. He, ali vidi se da nam je bilo dobro kad ovako navijamo za njih i za dvije turske kave. Drugi izlet s taxi-boatom odveo nas je do Stipanske gdje smo takoder proveli prekrasan dan na moru. U Stipanskoj je ipak to malo više „fensi“ odredište. Možda zato jer je tamo Carpe diem s foteljama za izležavanje, igralištem za odbojku i drugim sadržajima. A bravo, ima i WC. Što na Sv. Jerolimu ne postoji. Jer nudistima to ne treba, je li tako? Dakle, ovaj luksuz sa Stipanske se ipak plaća. Najskuplja voda na svijetu, popijte radije nešto drugo. Boca vode od litre 35 kuna. Očito je, Hvar nam nudi dvije vrste odmora. Pa je na vama da odaberete.

JEROLIM ZA NUDISTE Takva je to prilika da je jednostavno svima šušur u glavi, ali s jednom malom razlikom: turisti troše, a domaći zarađuju. Pa smo i mi morali za iduća dva dana Hvara potražiti neku mirniju vrstu odmora. Odlučili smo se za taxi-boat i odlazak na cjelodnevno kupanje i vožnju do otočića u sklopu Paklenjaka. Ispalo je da smo izabrali otok Sveti Jerolim. A zapravo nismo ni znali sve dok nas nije taxi iskrcao. E ali bitno je. Jer na Sv. Jerolimu su nudisti, riječ je o nudističkoj plaži. Sve poštujem, kako tko voli. Ali kad je na plažu nahrupilo svijeta, mladih, ali i bakica… Dakle, kad je tu postalo burnije nego noću u kafiću, utekli smo glavom

ULTRA PORT NEWS Fotoreport s Hvara: Noći „aftera“ nakon Ultra Europe u Splitu i dani opuštanja na Paklenjacima Tekst i fotograﬁje u prilogu: Segor Garber

Hvar, i grad i otok zajedno – glavno su stjecište partijanera u Hrvatskoj ljeti. Sezonama je već tako pa je Hvar i u svijetu na glasu ne samo kao turistički biser nego i kao glavni „stage“ i magično mjesto u Hrvatskoj kad je riječ o party-zoni. Naravno da se onda u Hvaru organizirao „after“ do sada najvećeg festivala elektronske glazbe kod nas, Ultra Europe festivala priređenog dan ranije u Splitu.

NEW YORK ZA JEDNU NOĆ *Hvar, svjetski poznato stjecište za partijanere *Noć „after“ Ultra Europe festivala u Splitu *Report s izvanrednog trajekta za partijanere *Turisti se iskrcali i preuzeli grad

SKIPER RUBEN VUJNOVIĆ ZA LUČKI VJESNIK

akvu đitu mogu samo sebi poželit, ali evo, vozija san je za drugoga. Za njih! Šta mi je i draže. Jer bilo nan je fantastično tih sedam dana. I rekli su da će doć opet. A di neće. Doša bi i ja. Pogotovo da san iz Toronta u Kanadi ka Vera i Miro. Uvridili bi se da me čuju. Vera i Miro su odavde, ali žive i rade u Kanadi, a zato su s toliko gušta i ugovorili ovu đitu s aranžmanom agencije Croactive Holiday kod koje sam i ja skiper (u sklopu agencije Hvar Adventure) .

SPLIT IZ TORONTA

WoSry E N t

RTer’s s p PO kip

Međutim, smijem se još uvijek, toliko dana posli đite, jer mi se doživljaji stalno vrte prid očima, za krepat od smija. Pa kad je u pitanju Splićanka Vera najviše me uhvati smij šta smo imali jedan dan malo mrtvoga mora i Veru uvatilo povraćat. Naravno da ju je to najviše smetalo:

HVAR, VIS, KORČULA, MLJET, BRAČ, ŠOLTA! U sedam dana smo prošli toliko otoka, gradića, uvala.. Svaki dan bi prešli 35 milja. Više nego Split- Vis. A nije bilo dosadno, ni mukotrpno. Nego sve u zafrkanciji. Četiri bračna para, jedan splitski živi u Torontu, pa dva bosanska, a jedan novosadski. I svi su rekli da će idućeg ljeta doć opet...

SVAKI DAN 35

ĐITA A bila je to zbilja prava đita. U jedan tjedan obašli smo Brač, Šoltu, Hvar, Vis, Korčulu, Mljet, jedino nismo stigli radi vrimena akoštat na Lastovo. Isplovili smo iz Splita prvo prema Hvaru. U Hvar naravno ludilo. A na večeru u kapetana, u Jurice Tomičića. Sve super. Sutra smo se uhvatili Visa. Sve smo prošli, Zelenu i Modru špilju… Sve. Odatle smo skočili do Vela Luke na Korčuli. Pa smo s Korčule otišli na Mljet. Onda se opet vratili na Korčulu, u Korčulu. Ma divota. I na povratku idemo opet na Hvar. Sućurje na istočnoj punti, pa sjevernom obalom do Jelse i onda u Bol na Braču. Zadnji gušti su nam na Šolti, u Stomorsku. Svaki dan smo prešli 35 milja, ali se dosta i jedrilo. Naučija san Mira jedrit, bija je sritan, sritan…

- A šta je Vera, ti si prava pravcata Splićanka. I jedino ti povraćaš na brodu s toliko Bosanaca i Novosađana, stalno su je zezali. Ma bija je smišan to brod i posada. Na momente smo parili ka iz one Juge, skoro su svi imali ponekog delegata na brodu. Ali nikome ništa nije smetalo, niti jedan vic, na što je Miro stalno bija spreman. A Miro van je muž od Vere, oni žive u Torontu. Vera je jedna od sestara Žane Jurić, splitske novinarke pa su tako lakše i došli do nas i organizirali svoj dolazak. Ovi iz Bosne su Ljubica i Duško, jedan par a drugi Slavica i Nikola. S njima je bilo za poludit jer su se Slavica i Ljubica toliko slagale za ić u šoping da je sve drugo znalo past u drugi plan. A da ne govorin da smo ih stalno morali čekat. Opremili su sve kuće, stanove, vikendice, pokupovali puste vešte, postole, kušine, koltrine, bonegracije, pun brod. Svašta bi moga ispričat jer smo se toliko dobro zabavljali i sprijateljili da tu nema ni minimalne šanse da bi se ko šta uvridija. Pa stalno su jedan drugog onako dobrodušno zadirkivali i tako je stalno bilo veselo.

DOBRI DUH LJUBIMKA Dobri duh na brodu bila je liječnica Ljubimka, iz Novog Sada. Ali jednoga dana joj se muž Ivica ozlijedija, ništa strašno, ali na moru i na điti to se svakome more dogodit. Za svaki slučaj dobri duh dr Ljubimka odmah je ka prava liječnica, znači više nego supruga, prepisala Ivici antibiotike. I sad počinje šou. Jer sekunda se moran ubacit u drugu priču koja se nadovezuje na par iz Bosne, na Slavicu i Nikolu. Mora bit da je neko ispripada Nikolu prije nego je krenija da ne smi u brod nosit velike boce. I sve je donija u male boce i bočice. Pa tako, naravno, i rakiju. A šta je on moga znat da će se na brodu Ivica ozlijedit. I da će Ivici Ljubimka prepisat antibiotike. Da ih svako jutro mora popit s vodom. Bidan Ivica se zeznija od pustih malih bočica i sto posto je bija siguran da je to voda. Pa je lipo trgnija antibiotike s rakijon. Onda se Miro lipo sitija, a ko će drugi nego on. - A ljudi moji, postoje vam skupi i jeftini an-

5 MILJA U VICU!!

TESLA Da nam je tko iznenada banija na brod sigurno bi mislija da su u jedrenju uveli neke nove vrste gindaca, sarči, itd… Jer brod je bija cili isprepleten žicama od mobiteli, kompjuteri, telefona, laptopa… Suprug našeg dobrog duha, liječnice Ljubimke, veliki je majstor za tu elektroniku i odma je na brod, čim se ukrca, počeja povezivat na sve strane sve telefone… Za krepat od smija, jedan dan smo u zahodu našli mobitel i puste žice, kabele. Kad dogodine dođu opet, sigurno ćemo prvo pitat di je naš Tesla.

KONOBA Prije nego smo došli na Mljet zva san Gorana koji drži poznatu konobu «Barba Ive» u Pomeni. Na onu stranu di se moš kupat, konoba do konobe na otvorenom uz more. Kad smo došli tamo, moja posada bila je u šoku. Večera riba, lešo, pečena, brujet… Škarpina od 3,5 kila, šargi od 80 deki, a škampi?! Škampi četiri u kilo. I najvažnije, kuharica Ruža. Goranova mater. Nema je na svitu. A najluđi su joj brujeti. Barba Ive je daleko najbolja konoba na Mljetu.

tibiotici, reka je Miro – Na primjer ovi antibiotik šta ga je dr Ljubimka prepisala svome mužu Ivici je izuzetno skup jer se mora pit s rakijon. I to mogu vam reć s puno dobrom rakijom.

SKUPI ANTIBIOTIK U svakom slučaju, ta boca s rakijom se stalno vrtila po brodu, jedni su je sklanjali da se Ivica opet ne bi zeznija, a drugi su mu je bit će i dodavali, pa sad ne ulazim još i u to kome je zapravo odgovaralo da rakija bude tu na dohvat ruke. Uglavnom, Ivica se nije razbolija. Znači da mu je doktorica dobro prepisala, najskuplji antibiotik,. Pa tako sedam dana. Kladim se da je Ivica prvi put normalno popija antibiotik s vodom tek osmi dan kad se iskrca…

FRIŠKA RIBA LUČKOG VJESNIKA

ože li se išta bolje dogodit tome najstarijem hrvatskom gradu, hvarskom Paizu, i tome Čoviku, Vinku Maroeviću, nego to da odeš u penziju i vratiš se doslovno u djetinjstvo, svome otoku di si ka dite išao u vrtić, odakle su ti svi tvoji. Zna se šta je HDZ, ali zna se i šta je Otok. Otočka sudbina mora čovika učinit otpornijim, iako - di ćeš lipše nego bit Bodul, svoj, poseban, okupan i odvojen morem.

KOLJENO MAROEVIĆ Bilo je Vinku već i vrime za odužit se svome mistu od korjena. Tko može pomoć ako ne iskusni mještanin, iako se rodio u Splitu. Maroevići su starogradska obitelj s kolinom. Tri su brata Maroevića, pjesnik Tonko, pa inženjer elektrotehnike Jakša poznat u svitu po svom proizvodu, po sondama za neurokirurške operacije, i Vinko, dugogodišnji šef splitskog Socijalnog. Vinko je bio i dopredsjednik splitske Vlade do 1993. i još puno toga. Pokretač je i alpinizma u Splitu, Stipe Božić ga u svojoj knjizi spominje kao učitelja alpinizma, a Tonko Maroević mu je napisao pogovor. Kad to znaš, onda kao novinar moraš reagi-

rat i snimit Vinka kraj njegovog «malog diva» kojim će se vozit kao gradonačelnik i šofer sam sebi. To je fotografija koja nije za prevarit. Vinku je «reno 4» kao navika zaostala iz alpinističkih dana i Gorske službe spašavanja. Logično je pitanje koga Vinko ovaj put misli spašavat i kako, Stari Grad i Starograđane. - Neće mi trebat „kavica s gradonačelnikom“ jer me po ulici stalno potežu za rukav. Navikao sam na to pa mi nije ništa nova. Dovršava se novi mul, projekt Lučke uprave Splitsko-dalmatinske županije, a to je jedan od projekata obećanih građanima za dovršenje, pokrenut u mandatima prije mene.

WSw E N T e POR intervi nt repri

PAIZ UMJETNIKA Od ozbiljnijih problema novi poteštat ističe tzv. «isplatu alimentacije», kako sam kaže: - To ja tako zovem. Jer Grad mora isplatiti 20 milijuna kuna za zemljište na kojemu su već izgrađeni hoteli, a budžet je puno manji... Slični problem ima jedino Supetar, ali on ima manji dug i veći budžet, tako da je Stari Grad jedinstven s tim golemim troškom. - A ko bi o tome razmišljao kad Paiz uvijek zamišljate kao Pariz, leglo umjetnika… - Nemam ja ništa protiv njih, dapače... Ni-

Intervju u zadnji čas

Vinko Maroević, gradonačelnik Staroga Grada na otoku Hvaru, najstarijega hrvatskog grada

PLIVAT U MORU

Razgovor vodila Elizabeta Garber

kome. Izbor Staroga Grada mora biti kontrapunkt budućnosti koja drži do prošlosti, objašnjava Maroević: - Konzervatori mogu zabraniti kanalizacijske cijevi nužne za život da bi sačuvali nalaze prošlosti, ali tko će brinuti o sadašnjosti? I more mirita konzervatora koji će ga zaštititi. Neka Stari Grad pliva u moru. - Ali te njegove šćige i jesu veliki problem?! - Bolje plivat u moru nego u… Vinko obećava kanalizaciju kao glavni projekt. - O tome govorimo 40 godina. Kanalizacija se mora dovršit! Obećavam to do kraja mandata. - Hoćete li skočit u more kao i Nikola Grabić, gradonačelnik Splita? - I to mogu obećat! Ta usporedba sa Splitom me privlači jer moj prijatelj Vjeko Ivanišević, išli smo u isti razred, zaslužio je postat gradonačelnikom grada sto puta većeg od ovog mog gradića, ali eto, i moj Paiz 15 godina čeka jednog hadezejca. A šta je najsmišnije, Vjeku i mene spaja nekako čak i Miljenko Smoje. Pisac Maloga i Veloga mista. A baš u Paizu se snimalo Malo misto. Šteta, gušta bi da smo Vjeko i ja, iz istog razreda, i iste stranke, gradonačelnici Smojinoga Maloga i Veloga mista. Nema boljeg oksimorona. A taj pjesnički «Spleen Paiza» glavna je odrednica Staroga Grada, puntarskoga mista kako bi rekao Tin Ujević, čije ime nosi trajekt za Stari Grad, «rezerva» dugogodišnjega «Petra Hektorovića».

IZBORNE BAJKE Obećanje je i dovršit Dom za stare i nemoćne u idealnom ambijentu starogradskog zaljeva. Maroević i Deletis se nisu „itali“ obećanjima bez pokrića, kao što je običaj pričat predizborne bajke, nego su naveli glavne i ostvarive, poput kanalizacija. Prigovarali im da su pružili samo životopis. A šta ćeš više? Taman obećava da bi mogli štogod učinit. I naravno, falilo mu je samo 14 glasova za pobjedu u prvom krugu, iako je godinama Paiz van domašaja HDZ-a.

U, A NE U… sam slučajno u kompi s prijateljem i pravim Starograđaninom Deletisom. Obojica razumijemo Paiz, odlučili smo u penziji to novo slobodno vrijeme poklonit Paizu i potaknut taj usnuli grad s imiđom umjetnosti, ali i inercije. - Dok jedan Hvar poduzetno naprijed grabi… - E, njima bi možda bilo bolje tu poduzetnost malo prigušit. Dok mi zbilja umiremo od lipote… Mi taj drukčiji imidž moramo sačuvat, ali ga osmislit da živi, zapravo da preživi. Nije slučajno veliki splitski gradonačelnik Jakša Miličić, otvarajući nekad davno Željezaru, napomenuo da se ne može živit od cvrkuta ptica, iako svi vole cvrkut, ja prvi, rekao bi Miličić.

IZ KOME S DELETISOM Vinkov zamjenik dr Vedran Deletis, liječnik međunarodne reputacije, sa 20 godina života u New Yorku, bio je na čelu Svjetskog društva neurofizijatara, a najnovije priznanje mu je titula „Ponos Hrvatske 2011.“. Zajedno s dr Darkom Chudyjem izvukao je iz dvomjesečne kome 21-godišnjeg Splićanina. I Paiz od Hektorovića do Deletisa i Maroevića zaslužuje probudit se iz jedne vrsti

UreĜenje dijela obale Priko u Starom Gradu na Hvaru prema idejnom projektu Ede Šegviđa WS E N T ity POR thor au

DOMAĆA RI S

tari Grad na Hvaru dobio je napokon ovog ljeta jednu od najdužih uređenih riva u Dalmaciji zahvaljujući ulaganjima, projektima i inicijativama Lučke uprave Splitsko-dalmatinske županije. Projektom arhitekta Ede Šegvića i tvrtke Prostor-Split, potpuno novi izgled dobio je veliki dio obale u dubokoj uvali Staroga Grada. Uređena je riva Lučice gdje su sad i funkcionalni vezovi za nautičare, a i oni dijelovi rive gdje su bili vezani manji brodići, te turistički jedrenjaci i trabakuli.

Starograđani to zovu Starom rivom, pa Novom rivom, „novom novom“ rivom i najnovije „novom novom novom rivom“, te k tome još i Malom rivom. Jer duž obale uređene su i šetnice... Da ukupni posao bude cjelovit prema zamisli Lučke uprave, nedavno je pokrenuta i izrada idejnog projekta uređenja dijela obale na drugoj, sjevernoj strani dubokog starogradskog zaljeva. Riječ je o predjelu Priko gdje je poznat i stari starogradski zapušteni škver s istezalištem za manje brodice. U tom dijelu je obala u jako lo-

MATEJUŠKA Edo Šegvić se nagradio i knjiga, najnovije djelo zove se „Dvi tri fete Matejuške“. U uvodu je sve objašnjeno: Ovi je libar mala štorija o Matejuški. Nima ambicije bit ni monografija ni enciklopedija ovega mandroča. Matejuška, ovo višestoljetno misto življenja, u sredinu spliskega porta, sigurno zaslužuje jednu opsežniju studiju strukovnjaka raznih profila… Bilo bi vridno napravit sistematski pregled ove stare spliske particele. Istražit način života i koje su to bile familje, od čega su živili i od čega su umirali, kako su se borili i jubili s moren, kako su gradili svoje kuće i kalete, kako govorili i beštimali, koje su pisme pivali, priče uz vatru dici pričali… Dotad, neka ove dvi-tri fete Matejuške čuvadu spomen na ovu fetivu Splićanku, od varoškega kolina. Teško se odvojit i od uvoda u knjizi pa nema smisla dalje prepričavat, nego se uhvatit cijele knjige u podebljem izdanju.

šem stanju, a mulići koji su građeni po sistemu „sam svoj majstor“, potpuno su oronuli i opasni za korištenje. Uglavnom je ta strana starogradskog porta riskantna za korištenje, prije bi se moglo reći neupotrebljiva. Predviđeno je urediti malu plitku uvalicu koju mještani koriste za privez svojih sportskih brodica, ali uglavnom betonski mulići su pod utjecajem mora dotrajali. Zapadno od ove uvale je svojevrsno spomen-područje, 1954. godine podignut je spomenik palim borcima u narodnoj revoluciji 1941.1945. (kipar Kosta Angeli Radovani), te velika spomen-ploča, ali prostor se slabo koristi, neatraktivan je i bez zadržavanja ljudi. Dalje na zapad, sve do Svetog Jerolima i kupališta Banj, uz liniju mora je asfaltirana kolno-pješačka prometnica, Uvala hrvatskih branitelja. More je vrlo plitko, negdje i sike vire vani. Prostor nije adekvatan za sigurni privez brodica. Cijelo to područje planira se kvalitetno urediti proširenjem za tri metra, nasipanjem plićaka.

IVA ZA PAIZ U prvoj,j istočnoj i t č j vali, li nakon k uređenja đ j moglo bi se osigurati 68 komunalnih vezova, s tim da bi se sredinom vale montirala tri pontona. Prostor spomen-područja se zadržava, a dio oko spomenika uredit će se kao ugodni park s novim klupama, dijelom za igru djece, možda i s fontanom, sve hortikulturno uređeno sa zasađenih 7 stabala (pelegrinke ili murve), koje će ovom prosto-

ru dati d i novu vrijednost. ij d Zapadno, prostor za manipulaciju i uređenje brodica bi se povećao. Dalje prema Svetom Jerolimu predviđaju se vezovi za veće brodice, dužine od 8 do 15 metara, ukupno njih 77. Izgradit će se u tom području i pet novih gatova dužine po 15 metara, postavljenih okomito na obalu. Ukupna je dužina obale koja bi se ovako uredila oko 625 metara.

The Universe of Omiš A thousand ciƟes within a town: cliīs like you’re in Arizona, the CeƟna Canyon right next to the sea, a sandy beach like the Copacabana in Rio de Janeiro...

HOLLYWOOD THE C EWgSo N T POR e to r whe

Written by: Ana Gaspar

id you know that some decades ago, Hollywood filmmakers had the idea of buying Omiš? That piece of info is reason enough to visit this place! Luckily, the people of Omiš won’t sell their home easily, because their town is unique. It’s small, but has everything: cliffs like you’re in Arizona, long beaches which the locals call Copacabana based on its ‘big sister’ in Rio de Janeiro, the Cetina River Canyon which runs green and clear, and meets the seas right in the valley of Dinara. Omiš has its own and unique pirate-related history, as the town still features watch-

towers from those days; such as the Mirabella (Peovica), from where you can see the whole town, and Starigrad (Fortica), which gives you a perfect view of the entire Brač Channel, with Hvar and Šolta in the background.

KLAPAS IN KALAS This is a town that loves to sing. It hasn’t stopped since 1967. You can hear traditional ‘klapa’ chants from almost every narrow street or ‘kala’, as they are called here. Dalmatians

songs resonate. The town has its famous Klapa Festival, but there are numerous concerts and evens every summer, as a part of the town’s cultural program. Then, there’s marathon swimming, fishermen nights, a carnival, Omiš Pirate Nights. The latter of this list occurs in October and will give you the opportunity to cheer pirates in a historical battle reenactment – one which they win – as the outnumbered but fiery pirates of Omiš, lead by Duke Malduk Kačić, defeat the huge Venetian army lead by the Pope’s emissary Akoncio! You’ll see why the pirates of Omiš were paid in gold for a safe passage across their nautical territory, all the way down to Kotor!

FROM CETINA INTO THE SEA For free-climbers, Omiš is heaven. There isn’t a climber that won’t be attracted to the steep rocks of Omiš Dinara (its peak being Kula, at 864 meters), and there isn’t a nature enthusiast who won’t be drawn to the 105-kilometer long, crystal clear Cetina River. It flows through Omiš directly into the sea. You can go rafting on Cetina, and the usual schedule is two groups a day, each going on a three or four hour trip down fifteen kilometers of the Cetina River, with their final stop being Radmanove mlinice – another wonderful excursion spot, ideal for moderate hikers who don’t crave so much adrenalin and don’t have to go

D ON CETINA RIVER rafting down the whitewater of Cetina, sailing on the ‘maestral’ wind or go rock climbing.

AN 1848 WINDMILL Radmanove Mlinice is a place where tens of thousands of people from all over Dalmatia gather round every Labor Day (May 1st). Today, it’s a restaurant, but the windmills were there since 1722. Nikola Radman opened the first mill to the public in 1848. Back in those days, ‘Radman’ was another name from bread, and today, it’s another name for games. Bread and games, and you don’t need anything else! Today, Omiš is home to six thousand people, and it’s located between larger centers, Split and Makarska, but it has a riviera of its own. Just like Omiš has a lot of character, it’s neighboring villages are full of character and life themselves, especially during the summer months, when it’s so crowded that you can hardly find a beach spot or a piece of shade. Everyone who visits the beaches of Pisak,

PIRATES Even today, you can still see the remains of an underwater safe wall right where Cetina meets the sea. Of course, you can’t see Mostina from above, and that was the idea: any time enemies would get close to our pirates, they would end up crashing into the underwater wall. The only ones who knew where there was a safe, narrow passage, were the people of Omiš, and only their boats could go through. Everybody else would crash, leaving nothing but remains of sunken vessels, as all enemies were defeated. Chains were placed across this narrow path. Simple and effective. The Pirates of Omiš used special boats, socalled ‘sagitae’ or ‘Arrows of Omiš’. They were quick and could easily maneuver from the sea to the riverside, after every successful journey. These pirates ruled the Adriatic with fear for two full centuries – from the 12th till the 14th – and were at their peak during the reign of Duke Kačić. Their favorite activity was attacking vessels that were returning from the Holy Land, as they carried treasures collected from ‘infidels’. The Pirates of Omiš were untouchable. They were so powerful that the Pope himself cursed them and excommunicated the people of Omiš from the Church!

THE NAVEL OF BRAČ Navel of Brač, BY HRVOJE HITREC

here is no place on the coast of Croatia as beautiful as Sutivan. The only place more beautiful is Stivan, but that’s actually the same place because the locals here call it Stivan, while tourists and state officials call it Sutivan. Saint Ivan (John) wouldn’t mind, as long as his name is still present is some way. If this town were called Saint Ivan, then it would have to change its name during the communist regime, but this way, Sutivan managed to get through that fortyfive-year period with no greater damage. In the final years of communism, or socialism, its other name (right wing and left wing politicians tend to call the same ideology by two different names), I bought some land in the quarry above the Likva Cove, just for laughs. And it’s Heaven on Earth. As

with any type of heaven, this one also featured snakes, and I was like Adam, wandering around the land, without a soul in sight. There were people down in Sutivan, and in those final communist years, to the left and right of the town’s center, Serbian tourist had their holiday resorts. As soon as the regime went under, there were no eastern guests any more, as they were getting ready to take over Dalmatia and return to Sutivan victoriously, but they didn’t succeed. Above the rocks near Likva, you can still see a bunker from back in the days of battles in the Brač Channel. Allegedly, the people of Brač set up bug plastic tubes around this place, and others like it, to pose as cannons, to fend off the Yugoslav Navy.

KEREMPUH Renowned Croatian writer Hrvoje Hitrec, member of the Hrast Party Presidency and Croatian Cultural Council Hrast Presidency Representative, one of the founding members of the Croatian Democratic Union. As an outstanding artist and professional, at the beginning of Croatia’s independence in 1990, Hitrec became the Director of Croatian National Television, and was also the Minister of Informing. In his youth, he was the Chief Editor of the satirical magazine Kerempuh. In 1985, he became the Director of the Trešnja Theater. In his novels, short stories, dramas and television projects, his favorite location is Zagreb. As a writer, he focused on making stories for children, creating Smogovci, a very popular kids’ television series.

During the war, those holiday resorts became home to refugees, but as soon as they returned home, traditional tourism started to come back as well. Tycoons big and small began building houses and mansions, which I jealously observed from my trailer and small basement, where I would find solace during heatwaves or thunderstorms. After this domestic wave, the Hungarians came and took over most of the east side of Sutivan. They were doing good business back home, and continued to do business here, as they began to rent their apartments to their less wealthy countrymen. Over time, even I got cocky, decided to build to build two more rooms above my

Renowned CroaƟan writer and humorist Hrvoje Hitrec writes for Port News. Hitrec is also becoming known for his love of SuƟvan on the Island of Braē, wher e he goes to relax and Įnd his place under the sun, on the coast of CroaƟa

IN HEAVEN TI S

W NE k

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ing room for the English wave, as the English need a place to launder Russian money. This money was used to renew the center of Sutivan, and many old buildings have been reconstructed with style and good taste. Except for Kavanjinovi Palace, because the legendary author who lived there and wrote what is a famous (although not powerful) poem, one which had such a long title that it was shortened into ‘Wealth and Poverty’, was always at odds with the locals, and their heirs are still holding a grudge.

Pučišća

What else does Sutivan have, apart from good people, a baroque church tower with its inexplicably still and watchful cat? It has a detour. No Hollywood stuntman could pass through this steep, curvy, narrow ‘detour’ without causing great damage and peril. Due to the fact that I am merely an average driver, every summer after taking said detour I am left at the mercy of local mechanics.

basement, and finished them with a nice roof. I didn’t have electricity back then and I still don’t, but I do have one solar cell, a battery and a converter. One year the battery would brake down, the converter another year, so I’ve been living in the dark, most of the time. The last couple of years, this piece of heaven has turned into hell because I got new neighbors from hell. Some guy decided to open up a small disco club on a terrace down at the cove, and he bought what must bee the biggest speakers on the market. All the birds fled, as well as the tourists, even the locals who live in the cove – which is still officially listed as ‘unpopulated’. The guy had connections in the township office, so nobody intervened. The party starts at 9 pm, and finishes at dawn, if I’m lucky. The sanitation inspector is far, far away, all the way in Supetar, so getting to Sutivan would mean he would have to take a month-long journey, which is also expensive and dangerous. If you can forget these flaws, which you can, then Sutivan is truly beautiful. The Hungarian wave has slightly backed down, leav-

ILL DAWN

And I also have to mention that the part of the road near the church is good for one car only, so when to cars come from opposite directions, one driver must go into reverse for about a hundred meters, which is incredibly frustrating. Sutivan is truly a great place. The people are wonderful. I miss some of them. I used to drink coffee here with the late actor Boris Dvornik, and would watch his son Dino go to the beach in Likva with his friends. One time, movie director Tadej and actor Dvornik went for a walk to my quarry, and they lost their track. They went back to downtown Sutivan full of bruises, tired and angry. My place isn’t easy to find. The only thing that can access me is the noise coming from the disco. But, that too shall pass. What remains are memoirs of Sutivan, a read I heartily recommend, because not even larger towns around the world have something like that.

NauƟēari vole plovit, ali

Urednički tim Lučkog vjesnika

BAJKERI Dundo govori da je lani bila bolja sezona. Imao je čak 12 iznajmljenih tjedana, a ovog ljeta samo osam. Gosti su Rusi, Poljaci, Švicarci, Francuzi, ali najviše Nijemci i Austrijanci. Jave se sami preko web-stranice, kontaktira Dundo i s par agencija, ali kaže da mu je jedina mana to što se s ponistre ne vidi more. A najluđi provod imali su njih osam bajkera iz Njemačke, to se sviralo, pivalo, čudo...

iste čuli za selo-charter? Dojedrite do Brela i za 17 minuta ste u Grabovcu, Vila Olka, kod Dunde, frontmena „Trio Gušt“, nadaleko poznatog po dobroj zabavi uz veselu, domaću i drukčiju glazbu, samo da se gušta. Dakle, selo-charter vam je aranžman di „jedrite“ na sidru kod Dunde u Grabovcu, tjedan dana, možete naručit i kuhara i zabavljače, ali svaka ekipa se opredijeli za tjedan u vlastitom aranžmanu, sami kuhaju, a zagori li kapula – udru i to na veselje. Međutim, tko vam brani da se željni zabave zaletite s mora u brdo. Dundo evo i zimi tro-

Želimir Dundić, frontmen „Trio Gušta“ Olka na babinoj starini. Ima 17 minut radionic

WtSry E N n

RT ou POthe c in

ši na svom imanju što ljeti zaradi, okuplja se estrada ciloga Splita, a to je skoro i cijela Hrvatska jer su svi na ovaj ili onaj način iz Splita i njegove regije. Dundo je inače Želimir Dundić, rođen u Zemunu 1956. jer mu je čača bio vojni pilot, ali od svoje devete Dundo se vratio doma, u Split. Iz Grabovca mu je majka i od njene stare rodbinske kuće izrasli su Dundini dvori. – Zovu se Vila Olka po mojoj babi Olki Mustapić. Smišna je to priča. Da bi pomoga majci, popravija kuću, srušija jedan zid, stavija pločice... na kraju sam malo pomalo srušija i izgradija cilu kuću. Rekli su mi da se to i drugima događa. Uglavnom, gradilo se pet godina, a od 2010. evo rade apartmani. Sad sam učinija i jedan lipi šufit i prilagodili ga studiju pa tu zimi ajmo reć komponiramo, snimamo, ali i jedemo, pijemo pivajuć... E, a moga bi se Dundo izgubit! Njegov trio vuče korijene iz KUD-a Filip Dević, gdje je svirao i violinu, mandolinu, a kompanjon mu Rade Konstantinović još i harmoniku. S gita-

ēim akoštaju, pitaju di đe se uspet do janjeƟne

“, diplomirani je inženjer brodogradnje, a u Grabovcu drži apartman Vila ta do Brela, idealno za „dojedrit“... A zimi se sve preadaptira u glazbenu cu i evo ti kod Dunde pola splitske estrade

ristom Željkom Cvitanovićem osnovali su trio tamo 1982. Poslije će stalnim članom postati i Gordan Šegvić i svi su glazbeno školovani. M Međutim, Dundo je diplomirani inženjer brod dogradnje... – Čak sam bio i zaposlen. Pa postao jedan o od šefova na Institutu brodogradnje. Radio sa sam kod meštra Špira Vukmana. Zapamćen je projekt s početka devedesetih ... Porinuće je jedne maone, stručno je to barža. Bilo je to b bočno porinuće, inače se porinuće obavlja kkrmom u more. Da objasnim polako... – Ma hvala lipa, ko će to razumit, bolje je nešto zasvirat! Iako... Možda bi više zaradio da se umjesto Vile Olke gradilo svoj Škver? – Ni slučajno. Jer sve šta zaradiš i napraviš, u more baciš!!! He, he, to čoviku kasno na pamet odzvoni.

ZIMA Sad će počet zimski turizam, stiže nam iz Njemačke dirigent i aranžer Toni Lasan, ovde je kod mene i Neno Ninčević, nema tko nije bija, Joško Banov, pa Dražen Zečić, a šta ću nabrajat, lakše je reć ko nije... Mi to zovemo glazbena radionica – napominje Dundo.

PROSVIRAJU TI DUŠU Trio Gušt je nastupio na tridesetak festivala, gostovao diljem Europe, u Australiji, Sjevernoj i Južnoj Americi, Novom Zelandu, Singapuru, Japanu... Jedino u Africi nije bio. Osim nastupa uživo, Gušti su se pojavljivali i na radijskim i TV postajama u Nizozemskoj, Belgiji i Njemačkoj. Neki albumi su dostigli zlatno i platinasto izdanje. Njihova specijalnost je scenski nastup, prosviraju ti dušu.

BIKERS Dundo tells us that last year they had a better tourist season. He was full for twelve weeks, while this summer, only eight. His guests come from Russia, Poland, Switzerland, France, but most of them are from Germany and Austria. They contact him via his web site, and Dundo keeps in touch with a couple of agencies. The only downside? His home doesn’t have a seaside view. His wildest guests were eight bikers from Germany, who spent their holiday playing music and singing. Quite a sight.

Sailors love to sail, but as soon as they doc for that roasted lamb

Želimir Dundić is the frontman of Trio Gušt, but he also has a bachelors degree in complex called Vila Olka, built on his grandma’s land. It will only take you seventee trip, and in winter months, his home becomes a music studio as mu

ave you heard about the village-charter? Sail off to Brela and withing seventeen minutes, you’re in Grabovac, at Vila Olka, Dundo’s place. He’s the frontman of Trio Gušt, a popular middle of the road band known for good times and cheerful, domestic, but slightly different music – as long as everyone’s having fun. So, this village-charter is an arrangement in which you anchor away at Dundo’s place in Grabovac for a week, you can order a personal chef and entertainers, but any group that visits chooses their own version of a good time. They cook their own food, and if the onions start to burn, nobody’s going to cry. Replacing a beach surrounding for the hills, if you’re keen on partying, seems like a great idea. The profit Dundo makes during the summer, he spends it during the winter, and his musician friends from Split come to visit, which is a large portion of all Croatian musicians, as a lot of them are from this area. Dundo was born in Zemun in 1956 as Želimir Dundić, his dad was a army pilot, and he’s been living in Split since he was nine years old. His mom is from Grabovac, and he built his house on her family’s land.

- This place is called Vila Olka after my grandma, Olka Mustapić. It’s a funny story. I was helping my mom out, fixing the house, took one wall down, put up new tiles, and little by little, I tore down the entire old house and built a new one. People have told me stuff like that isn’t uncommon. Anyway, I was building this place for five years, and in 2010, I introduced a small suite complex. Recently, I built an attic which I turned into a music studio, so that’s where we compose, record, but it’s also where we eat and drink and sing. Dundo knows his way around! His trio originated from the folk ensemble Filip Dević, where he played the violin, mandolin, and his band-mate Rade Kostantinović played the harmonica. Along with guitar player Željko Cvitanović, they established their trio in 1982. Gordan Šegvić will become a member some time later, and we must point out they are all professionally trained musicians. However, Dundo is also has a BA in shipbuilding. - I even worked in the industry. I was actually one of the people in charge of the Shipbuilding Institute. I was employed by renowned shipbuilder Špiro Vukman. We had a notable

project in the early 1990s. We launched a barge, but we did a side launch, which is different from the usual way, which is stern first. Let me slowly explain... - Thanks, no need to! Who can follow up on that terminology, it’s better we play some music. Although – would you be making more money if you were building ships instead of Vila Olka? - No way! When you build ships, everything you finish, you end up chucking! I discovered that on time.

THEY PLAY FOR YOUR SOUL Trio Gušt has played at more than thirty festivals, traveled around Europe, Australia, North and South America, New Zealand, Singapore, Japan, and the only place left to visit is Africa. Apart from live performances, Trio Gušt has appeared on many radio and television shows, including those in Holland, Belgium and Germany. Some albums went gold and platinum. Their forte is their live act, they play for your soul.

ck, they start looking b

WINTER We’ll soon enter our winter season, we have conductor and composer Toni Lasan coming in from Germany. Neno Ninčević also comes here, they all do – Joško Banov, Dražen Zečić, I don’t have to list them all, it’s easier to list who hasn’t been here. We call it our musical workshop – Dundo points out.

n shipbuilding, and in Grabovac, he owns a small suite n minutes from his home to Brela, which is a nice sailing usicians from Split come to visit Dundo.

Sensations of Central Dalmatia For this We Have no Word Marina

Bol

MARINA A T

here isn’t a Central Dalmatian town that hasn’t been featured in our column’s shopwindow. One could collect these sights into a wonderful memoir, a photo album that

The life goes on, just I lags!

AND BOL would make you crave for more. The sea here is so clear, it looks good enough to drink, while the sky, beaches and pines bask under the unique lighting of our sunshine. This time, we’re

taking you to Marina, a small town on the west side of Trogir. After that, we’re going to Zlatni rat and world-famous Bol. Out starting point is, as always, Split, and we’re traveling by ferryboat.

Brodski dnevnik Piše Slaven Luštica

ema lošeg brodskog dnevnika. Gušt vam je čitat i suhoparni popis mijenjanja ulja, popravka motora ili drugih činjenica vezanih za život jednog broda. Ajde, upišite prvu rečenicu u vaš tek otvoreni brodski dnevnik i doživjet ćete uzbuđenje kao da se zbilja događa nešto veliko. A sve jednostavno, svakodnevno: Krenili mi 26. srpnja iz Splita, vratit ćemo se 28. kolovoza! Ima li išta ljepše! Nečujam na Šolti, Milna, Lučice na Braču, Vela Garška na Hvaru, Palmižana, Taršće, Vis i Češka vila, Stončica, Milna, Zaglav, Bargujac, Rukavac, Budihovac, Srebrena, Ruda, Stiniva, pa Biševo (Mezoporat), Salbunara, Biševski porat, onda Komiža, opet Rukavac, a onda pravac Šćedro, pred južnom obalom Hvara s pogledom na Korčulu.

NEBO NEČUJMA Di se nećeš uzbudit! A posada? Pas, ženka, Luka, stara šest i po godina, crna, marke labrador… Vlasnik psa gđa Ranka Paskaš. I treći član posade – kapetan Slaven Luštica, ujedno i pisac brodskog dnevnika. Brod Elan 333. Golema nečujamska uvala je idealna za što prije se «presvuć» u čovika od mora. Nakon đira po valama Nečujma vratili smo se u prvu desno na samom ulazu. Šumpljivina!? Lipo ime, a još lipša vala. Mala, draga, zaštićena od svih vjetrova osim juga. Luka je tu, ka pravi morski pas, imala svoje prvo morsko krštenje. Kupala se, plivala i skakala u more. Lagani maeštral, u sumrak šetnja do obližnje vale Podkamenice, pa do Maslenice i Piškere na dnu u prekrasnoj borovoj šumi. Mirisi koji se pamte, a noći zvijezdama posutog neba. Nečujam je dovoljan za cijelu đitu, ali nas zove i Brač. Milna. Svaki put se tu sjetim priče o jednom poslovnom čovjeku, koji je zaradio veliki novac u južnoj Americi, imenom Sargo Bonačić, pa je tamo prije sto godina darovao svojoj Milni oko 25 milijuna dolara u zlatu. Da mi je znat što se sve događalo s tim blagom… Lučice su, kao i Nečujam, jedna supervala, poput ruke su joj prsti luke, mali rukavci. Nazvao sam prijatelja Marina Lemešića koji sa sinom tu drži prekrasan restoran na moru i bove za sidrenje. Sačuvat će mi jednu bovu, Marino i ja drugujemo još od šibenske gimnazije. Išli smo čak i u isti razred, i već onda se vidilo da bi mogao napraviti uspješnu nogometnu karijeru.

LUČICE LEMEŠIĆA Marino odlazi u Hajduk, a 1969. mu je trener Slavko Luštica, moj otac. Marino igra kao jedan od najvećih talenata te izuzetne generacije koja će poslije toliko godina suše osvojiti titulu državnog prvaka 1971. Karijera Lemešića naprasno je prekinuta zbog teške ozljede, ali u rekordnom roku Marino završava pravni fakultet, pa i tu pokazuje svoju darovitost, marljivost i kvalitetu. Zaslužio je taj očaravajući ambijent borove šume u Lučicama. Uvijek se piča o Hajduku, ali i o sinu Leu koji oplovljava svijet. Baš se spominje da je trenutno u Polineziji na Kukovom otočju. Lemešići su ugodno društvo i pravi domaćini. Odlična spiza, predivni ambijent i Maitre d´hotel (direktor hotela) njegova supruga Dragica, novinarka morske i turističke orijentacije. S Brača je lako skočit na Hvar. A tamo nas čeka čudo prirode Vela Garška, i čudo od čo-

Palmižane, Vinogradišće, pa Dagmarica kao i uvijek dominantna, restoran Novak desno, Zori doli, puno brodica i brodova, sidrimo se do Talijana, i u njih crni labrador... Putem do Visa, dva dana poslije, mahnuli smo Paklenjacima kraj Solina i Vlake, blaženo jutro i bonaca, tako smo sneni i mi, i more ka ulje. Otočić Dobri ostaje nam lijevo, a onda okrećemo prema Visu. Uhvatit ćemo se Visa taman dok Ranka popije svoju ritualnu kavu u nastavcima, Luka leži i uživa, a ja na timunu. Silueta Visa je sve veća, počevši od sjeveroistočne lanterne Stončice pa do krajnjih obrisa na zapadu. Host desno, a mi lijevo do Češke vile. Na rivi dva broda, jedan jedrilica-charter, apartman za male mornarovce, trenira ih Marin Sirišćević Sira. Obišli smo veliku Jurjevu uvalu, cijeli viški porat, sva blaga Kuta, Male i Vele bande i naravno da te vuče ono more i mir isprid Češke vile. I Luki je ovdje super, izađe van u šetnju kad je volja, pasji život, e. A moja Ranka kuha da je prste lizat, pa joj se ne mišan u kužinu. Prije obida skočimo do mista i popijemo jednu ledenu travaricu.

Za Ĝitu je dovoljno odrišit se od kraja

BIŠEVO, ŠĆEDRO, S EW N T rem POR s mo t živo

vika Marka Pavičića koji je uredio valu gorljivom temeljitošću kojom svjedoči da nije slučajno uspješno magistrirao poduzetništvo, a radi i na doktoratu. Vela Garška je potpuno očišćena, «presađeni» šljunak, šezloni, viseće mreže za ljuljanje, hladovina, stolovi ispod bora, mala kuglana, usred prirode gdje vam se možda posreći kao nama susret s nekim jelenom ili muflonom. U blizini je reprezentativni restoran, konoba «Mareta». A najbitnije, možete se sidrit na desetak bova.

BLAGO KOMIŽE I VISA Provišta u Hvaru, vruće, gužva, u biti sudar s kopnom koje smo u Splitu ostavili. I evo kapetana Darka Vicića – Pirka iz Milne. Onda Palmižana, pa evo i Pere Krstulovića Snage sa ženom. Slijede divote, uvala Taršće na jugu

Milina za dušu, srce i želudac. Sve smo u Visu vižitali, rivu, dućane za kupit spizu, poštu, restorane, samo za vidit peškariju i štandove na rivi. Litnji šušur, gužva, vruće, ma divota, a noć na Češkoj vili ispod debele deke usrid lita! Ko to more platit? Vis je raj do raja, bez kraja. Prema Stončici jedna mala pješčana vala, stavili su bove, plaža pješčana, odbojka na pijesku, dva restorana. Dalje Milna, Zaglav, jutarnje kupanje, Bargujac, Rukavac, Srebrena, Ruda, i uskličnik – Stiniva. Ranka skače u more, Luka isto, a ja za povijest fotoaparat u ruke… Pa ni to nije sve jer slijedi Biševo, Modra špilja, Mezoporat uvijek isto, na rivu se ne možeš vezat, ima ih puno, a u portu brod do broda, manovraju, manovraju…Čovik se mora pribrat od te lipote. Pa zato polako do Salbunare i biševskog Porta, lani uvrštenog

strijanka, sin upravo završava nauke u Beču, konobarica je mala Vera iz Slavonskog Broda, pola godine su na Šćedru, pola u Beču. Šćedro je valjda zato na dobrološem glasu po pantaganama, jer miševi kolo vode dok zimi gospodara-mačaka nema…

BOBOVIŠĆE KUČANA Posjetio je i nas jedan, preko lanca na provi se ukrca i čuli smo ga u promenadi lijevom razmom, ali je Luka bila na visini zadatka malo preglasnim hrkanjem pa se gospon štakor osjetio nepozvanim. Ipak, ujutro nismo odoljeli, pretražili smo cijeli brod. Bio je to za nas povijesni trenutak, zamislite koliko poslije 47. godine prije Krista kad su se tu sukobile flote Pompeja i Cezara! Statut iz 1331. Šćedro općinskim vlasništvom namjenjuje ispaši. Šćedro se spominje i zbog crkve sv. Marije velikodušne, impozantnog ilirskog stećka, dominikanskog samostana napuštenog u 18. stoljeću nakon gusarskih napada… U priručniku «Mediteranski otoci» britanskog autora Charlsa Arnolda opisuje se 200 najljepših otoka Mediterana, a Šćedro

, PAKLENI, VELA GARŠKA među m me eđu deset des eset et najljepših naj ajlj jljjep e ššiih plaža p ažža naa Mediteranu. pl Med edit edit iter eran nu Kako to izdrže svi ti naši gosti, stranci, nautičari?! Poslije svega još i Komiža! Ranka je oduševljena. A novi dan donosi nam Šćedro. Trebat će nam tri i po sata, krećemo ujutro u šest, južnom obalom Visa. Diže se sunce, da smo blizu, vidimo po otočićima Lukavci. A eno i brodovi, ulaze, izlaze… Napokon smo u oazi mira, mirisa i beskrajne ljepote na tom endemičnom otoku, s uvalama Lovište i Manastir na sjeveru i s malom pješčanom uvalom Porterušom, pravom divotom na južnoj obali Šćedra. Dirnuli smo sve vale gumenjakom, a i konobe. Najdraže nam je kod Rate na Lovištu. Praiskonski timbar, Rato je gazda od kojih 70 godina, rođen na Šćedru, mala enciklopedija. Klasika, obiteljski biznis, žena Au-

je proglašeno za najmirniji otok. No i takvoj ljepoti dođe kraj. Valja se odrišit od kraja, na Šćedru… Rano ujutro ostavljamo usnulo Šćedro u sumaglici vrućeg ljeta, razaznajući po provi obrise Hvara: Zavala, Ivan Dolac, Sv. Nedilja, Dubovica, Zaraće, Milna i – Pokonji Dol budi uspomene, jedan put dupin i njegov prijateljski osmijeh, drugi put stane motor, ali evo ti morem momaka iz Hvara, potegli nas, hvala i ovom prigodom. Za kraj svraćamo u Bobovišće kod naše Kate, a kapetana Vedrana zovem ima li slobodne bove. Poslovni čovjek ide nam ususret i prati do sidrišta. Na hladno pivo kod Đurđice, Ona i Kate dvi su velike humanitarke. Ondje srećemo i bivšeg slovenskog predsjednika Kučana. Ljetuje na Braču, a podupire svaku akciju Kate i Đurđice za dobrovoljne davaoce krvi. Ko moru da, more mu i vrati!

PORT NEWS INFO HEARTS OF CENTRAL DALMATIA

Lenght of the pier: GPS FOR THE ISLAND’S TAVERNS

COAST Trogir 380 m Omiš 234 m Makarska 166 m Kaštel Stari 87 m

COAST GAS STATION Maslinova, Brač

BRAČ: Supetar 295 m Bol 155 m Milna 100 m Postira 295 m Pučišća 120 m

Trogir, 021 885-458 Rogač, Šolta 021 654-180 Kaštel Gomilica, 091 252-5285 Split, 021 399-396 Vis, 021 711-176 Milna, Brač, 021 636-340 Sumartin, Brač 021 622-250 Hvar, 021 741-060 Bol, Brač, 021 635-119 Vrboska, 021 774-220 Makarska, 021 612-660

VIS, Budikovci Andro Slavić, 091 754-4069 VIS, Žena Glava Darko Mladineo, 091 523-9184 VIS, Mala Travna Senko Karuza, 099 352-5803 VIS, Komiža Katarina Spajić, 098 360-469

Maslinica, Šolta

HVAR Hvar 235 m Stari Grad 486 m Jelsa 185 m Vrboska 130 m Sućuraj 663 m

Dol, Brač

HVAR, Hvar Jurica Tomičić, 098 312-161 HVAR, Stari Grad Damir Čavić, 091 573-6376 HVAR, Stari Grad Pizzeria Marko, 021 765-889 HVAR, Pakleni otoci Tonči Matijević, 098 727-186 Bol, Brač

GAS FILLING Trogir, 021 885-410 Kaštel Novi, 021 238-300 Kaštel Sućurac, 021 204-570, 021 204-555 Baška Voda, 091 509-0836 Supetar, Brač, 021 630-548

Pitve, Hvar

VIS Vis 400 m Komiža 552 m

Lovrečina, Brač

ŠOLTA Maslinica 20 m Rogač 100 m Nečujam 63 m

DRVENIK VELI 66 m

DRVENIK MALI 111 m

BRAČ, Dol Tonči Matulić, 091 516-6532 BRAČ, Gornji Humac Konoba Tomić, 091 225-1199 BRAČ, Murvica Konoba Marija, 091 195 8754 ŠOLTA, Rogač Damir Bilankov 091 549-4986