AMBASADORI HRVATSKE BAKALAR FETIVI, NORVEŠKI
ČESTIT STIPE BOŽIĆ MAKARSKA NOVOG DOBA
LJETO USRED ZIME
Lucki vjesnik NO. 14
51 LUKA SPLITSKO-DALMATINSKE ŽUPANIJE BREVIJAR ZA SVAKOGA NA MORU
SRCE MEDITERANA U doba prije interneta reklo bi se da u ruci držite 14. broj Lučkog vjesnika/Port Newsa. Danas držite zamišljeno kormilo i već plovite, brod vam i ne treba, dovoljan vam je za plovidbu naš Lučki vjesnik/Port News. Jer internetom, i usred zime, možete uploviti u prekrasni Jadran, u srce Mediterana, ili baš u Srednju Dalmaciju, koja je područje Splitsko-dalmatinske županije čija Lučka uprava velikoj publici nautičara nudi ovaj list već četvrtu godinu. PUČINA 2015. GODINE Možda ste daleko u Hamburgu, ili tko zna gdje, ali teško ćete odoljeti, internetom plovite u snu prema Jadranu i zamišljate kamo ćete u ljeto 2015. Uplovite sretno na
pučinu 2015. godine! Kušajte informacije koje vam nudimo i sigurno ćete se zapitati zašto ovamo ne svratite i onda kad je još ljepše – za vrijeme Ljeta usred Zime, dok se drugi bave skijanjem. Hrvatska je na Jadranu okupana suncem i u siječnju, veljači... UTIHINA ZIMSKOG SNA Zimske utihine, bonace tipične za Dalmaciju kakvih nema niti u klimaksu sezone, vrućem kolovozu, jer tada vladaju maestrali, e to su osobitosti ovog podneblja gdje se mnogi kupaju i kroz cijelu godinu, a izlazi se na more kaićima i brodicama na vesla, lovi se ribu i „kvarca“ na suncu bez posljedica ljetnih nevera i žege. Kao izmišljeno za odmor, za povratak u mladost, pogotovo ako
Umjetnost darivanja
ste uplovili u pozne godine. I more se igra velikog dobroćudnog mede utonulog u zimski san. SRCE EUROPE Ploveći s Lučkim vjesnikom/ Port Newsom uhvatit ćete vjetar Srednje Dalmacije i na daljinu, iz dalekih krajeva Europe, pa možete planirati zimi svoje ljetne rute. Hrvatska je zemlja izrazito pomorske i turističke orijentacije, u samom srcu Europe, idealan cilj svakome putniku, istraživaču, pustolovu, turistu… DODIR ISTOKA I ZAPADA Šteta je propustiti taj čarobni dodir Hrvatske s Italijom, Austrijom, Slovenijom, Bosnom i Hercegovinom, Mađarskom, Crnom Gorom, te blizinom Kosova, Makedonije, Albanije, Srbije, Bugarske, Rumunjske,
LJETO USRED Z Piše Mario GARBER
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Grčke, Turske... Zajamčena raznolikost i bogatstvo te univerzalnost kultura, podneblja, umjerene, blage i svestrane klime. To su preduvjeti za zimski turizam pa svaki putnik može s boljom upućenosti pod tim nebom Hrvatske i njenog Jadrana prepoznati osobitosti svojih interesa i apetita i to u svako doba godine. TRENUTAK ZA AVANTURIZAM To je priča Lučkog vjesnika/Port Newsa, u hipu, onako na brzinu za vikend, možemo vas odvesti u trenutak za avanturu. Za avanturizam. U kojoj vi želite formi, plovilu ili „paketu“ (aranžmanu), jer Hrvatska je toliko blizu svakome u Europi da nije potrebno puno planirati, dođe vam da je posjetite i vi ste tu. Usred zime. A usred ljeta.
ZIME
Impressum Publisher: Port Authority of Split-Dalmatia County
Stipe BOŽIĆ za Lučki vjesnik, hrvatski alpinist koji se popeo na sedam najviših vrhova svih kontinenata, tv-putopisac i snimatelj, autor niza feljtona i knjiga
NAŠA HIMALAJA Biokovo je planina mog života, jer sam rođen u malome selu Zavojane, odakle se Biokovo vidi u svoj svojoj čarobnoj divoti, i kao dijete sam zauvijek ostao zarobljenog pogleda na te tajanstvene visine, pa mogu zamisliti kad se turisti i nautičari u posjetu Makarskoj zateknu s druge strane Biokova, na jugu, osupnuti tom golemom stijenom, tim zidom koji ih provocira i zove da ga otkriju i upoznaju. Sveti Mihovil je biokovska visina koja mi je zavrtila glavom dok sam još bio mali i ne zna se kad je Biokovo ljepše, ljeti u bujnoj prirodi ili zimi kad djeluje baš himalajski. Dominacija Biokova nad cijelom Makarskom rivijerom i tim prekrasnim plažama daje upotpunjenu sliku jer imaš osjećaj da ti ništa nije uskraćeno, od dubine do visine, od topline mora do planinskog osvježenja. Sve te dimenzije me drže kao na lancu i ništa im ne mogu, ne mogu im odoljeti, moram ih dodirnuti, sprijateljiti se i biti dio njih, pa sam se jednako ponašao i kad je u pitanju dubina spustivši se u Lukinu jamu Velebita na 1395 m, a uživam i roniti, pa osjećam kako se čovik s mora, kad veže brod ispod Biokova, odmah zagleda visoko gore u nebo s novim pustolovnim izazovom u sebi.
For the publisher: Port Authority director, Editor in chief Domagoj Maroević Editor: Mario Garber Editorial concept and design: Garber media d.o.o. Segor Garber Photos: Garber media d.o.o. Translation: Vuk Oreb Lector: Elizabeta Sonjara Garber Printed in: SUTON d.o.o. Online edition: www.lusdz.hr All Rights Reserved by Garber media Ltd. info@garber-media.hr ISSN 1848-4689
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Jesti se mora
BAKALAR, FETIVI NORVEŠKI Božićni jelovnik Dalmacije norveškog podrijetla: lešo, bjanko, brujet... Piše Elizabeta SONJARA GARBER
S
va naša dalmatinska mjesta, velika i mala, ovih dana vonjaju na bakalar. Bakalarijade, od Trogira s Nenom Belanom, pa nizbrdo na jug, održavaju se, kako se Badnjak primiče, sve češće i sve više, ljudi se okupljaju da bi punih usta mirisali na blagdan. Pojest će se na tone bakalara. Bakalar je najduža riba na svijetu. Najviše se rađa na norveškom otočju Lofoten, iznad arktičkoga kruga, kamo migrira na mriještenje (sa ženkama dugim i dva metra), a najviše se jede daleko dolje na jugu – u Brazilu. Bakalar govori i sve svjetske jezike. Za Talijane, Španjolce i Portugalce ne treba vam rječnik – razumjet će vas i hrvatski. Ali, ipak je dobro znati da se u
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Norveškoj, u domovini bakalara, bakalar kaže „torsk“. A Norvežani od bakalara najviše vole pojesti – njegov jezik. Jezik od bakalara na norveški način, to je prava poslastica. Nije puno drukčije ni kod ostalih najvećih svjetskih izvoznika, Islanda i Grenlanda. Naravno, u sjevernim hladnim vodama bakalar se češće jede svjež nego usoljen ili sušen, što je pak kod nas češće. I kod nas je običaj zaliti ga vinom, a Norvežani to rade – pivom. Da Vikinzi nisu izumili soljenje i sušenje bakalara, cijela bi povijest možda bila drukčija, i ne samo pomoračka. A i naši bi blagdani bili drukčijeg okusa. Vodili bi se i drukčiji razgovori. Prošećite na Badnjak bilo kojom dalmatinskom kalom i možete se kladiti da će u svakom razgovoru svoj dio „šuga“
imati bakalar na brujet, lešo, ili in bianco, in rosso... i tako u sto koluri! Krajem siječnja na Lofotenu očekuje se novi pomor nedužnih bakalara koji će u jatima nagrnuti prema prekrasnim i preledenim pješčanim plažama, iznad kojih se uzdižu planine kilometar visoke, a u blizini čeka opjevani strašni vir Maelstrom u kojemu je, u stvarnosti i u legendi, nestala već cijela flota brodova. U tom arktičkom okruženju, na pet velikih lofotenskih otoka živi jedva 25 tisuća ljudi, a u siječnju će čak četiri tisuće od njih krenuti u lov na bakalar. Kako bi ga poslali nama, obezglavljena. Nema što, istina je ona stara: dok jednome ne smrkne, drugome ne svane. Može i obrnuto. A ipak, jesti se mora.
Paklenjaci
MAJSTOR FOTOGRAFIJE
Ivo Pervan, poznati hrvatski, međunarodno priznati fotograf, cijedi svoju karijeru kako bismo konačno sami sebi otvorili oči
HRVATSKI OSLONAC P oznati hrvatski fotograf Ivo Pervan posvetio je svoju karijeru propagandi hrvatskih prednosti na svjetskoj turističkoj ponudi. Tako je bio i u Norveškoj gdje cijene Hrvatsku, dobro je poznaju, od njene falkuše i pomorstva do kulinarstva i bakalara na sto načina. - Da bolje uočavamo i ističemo naše prednosti, cijenili bi nas po svijetu i po mnogočemu. Na primjer, cijela Norveška bi došla kod nas jedriti da imamo ponuđen taj bogomdani prostor za jedrenje ispod Vruje gdje pušu svi vjetrovi svijeta. A tako je i s bakalarom. Pervana rastuži kad vidi kako slabo koristimo svoje prednosti. Po svijetu se cijeni na primjer Toscanu, a i na mojim se fotografijama može vidjeti da po toskanskim motivima ništa ne zaostajemo, ako nismo i bolji. I naša Bukovica ima šarma. Istra, Hvar, Poljička Republika... Sve su to argumenti. Plitvice,
Velebit, Krka... Mogli bi namamiti i fotografe u nas, umjetnike... A kamoli ne sladokusce da u nas dođu na bakalar a ne u Norvešku odakle je. – Ne želim nikako vrijeđat, ali ne mogu ni šutjeti. Ako Austrija može učinit 28 milijardi, Beč i Prag po 12 milijardi, a mi samo sedam, onda mislim da netko kod nas ne obavlja svoj posao onako dobro kako je dobro plaćen. Bili smo u Oslu i da vidiš što jedu. Zorno, iskrižana kapula, mrkva, poriluk, biži, tikvice, fažol, i onda sve to niti skuhano, nego obareno. Za glavno jelo. Onda smo im skuhali dvi teče od 40 litara bakalara na bjanko i na crveno. Dolazili su po tri puta iznova, sve polizali ka da su termiti. Znači sviđa im se. Pa zašto mi ne
Ribarske sviće, fotografija Ive PERVANA
postanemo superiorni za njih u turizmu? Svaki turista voli dobru spizu. Međutim, naši na špale turizma idu vanka po svitu, mi to plaćamo, a oni ništa ne nauče da bi naš turizam prosperirao. Pa eto zašto mi imamo samo sedam, a ne kao Austrija 28 milijardi. Naravno, Norvežanima, Austrijancima itd... sve priznajem, sve osim spize. Inače, u Oslo su došli brodovi iz svih skandinavskih zemalja, pa koliko je tu parabrodi, svi sačuvani, jer brod je u stvari jedna udruga, pa su se svi u nju učlanili koji vole čuvat i spasit te stare vapore. Uživaju, svi u uniformama, nose svoje funkcije, igraju se ka mala dica na posade i mornarice... Dobri ljudi, dobri brodi.
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P
osljednjih sezona Makarska rivijera se vraća nekadašnjim turističkim rekordima kad su se generacije koje to pamte „fićom“ probijale između „štramaca/madraca“ uz plaže od Brela do Igrana preplavljene Čehinjama (naravno, i Česima). I prošlog ljeta se govorilo na sva usta kako je Makarska rivijera ponovno postigla rekord u posjetu turista, čak njih 54.800 registriranih. A ljeta 2015. očekuje se totalni bum.
GENI OD TURIZMA
Sve govori da će Makarska, i kao grad i kao rivijera, doživjeti idućih ljeta spektakularne uzlete po pitanju turističkih rekorda. Makarani se i trude, turizam im je u genima, kad ga nije bilo onih ratnih godina od 1991. nadalje – njihovi turisti bili su izbjeglice. Makarski turistički radnici svakog ljeta pokreću niz novih projekata, akcija, događanja, ističući
svaku svoju osobitost kao turistički efekt i atrakciju. Pred njima je sad novi zadatak da privuku prave goste u lipnju 2015. Kad se dovrši lukobran kojim će se definitivno makarska luka pretvoriti u potpuno zaštićenu te će njeni kapaciteti narasti za stotinjak novih vezova. Sigurno će to biti povijesna prekretnica za Makarsku, pa i za njene ugostitelje koji će se prilagoditi novim apetitima turista. - Makarska će postati nešto sasvim novo – kaže gradonačelnik Tonći Bilić – Njena riva bit će na meti novih turističkih i nautičarskih znatiželjnika. Sigurno će sad jedan pravi riblji restoran postati veći hit negoli obični kafić, a do izražaja će doći i naše autohtone konobe s domaćom spizom. U unutrašnjosti prekrasnog
grada pod Biokovom zadnje vrijeme sve je popularnija Kalalarga, šetnica u kojoj se ususret novom ljetu otvaraju još dvije-tri konobe a već je pustila korijenje konoba Kalalarga, poznata po svojim Marendinima i natjecanjima kuhara.
POSAO SKLADGRADNJI
- Uvjeren sam da mi Makarani ne možemo ostati bez turističke mašte i iskoristit će se nova prilika što je nudi novi lukobran, kaže gradonačelnik Bilić – Svakako ćemo zajedničkim snagama mi u vodstvu grada, pa Turistička zajednica i njeni meštri te ljudi iz Makarskog komunalca koji brinu o vezovima imati dobre ideje da se novu Makarsku ponudi i novoj turističkoj publici. Već je objavljeno u javnosti da
Epohalni projekti županijske Lučke uprave
MAKARSKA NOVO Fotoreport: Segor GARBER
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Povijesni lukobran lansirat će Makarsku na sve svjetske nautičarske karte
OG DOBA
neće biti novog koncesionara jer je „Makarski komunalac“ asistent Lučke uprave Splitsko-dalmatinske županije pod ugovorom još tri godine i ta firma brine o naplati vezova u luci. Zato je iz Lučke uprave objašnjeno kako ne treba očekivati novog koncesionara koji bi vodio brigu o vezovima. Gradilište lukobrana na Osejavi ponovno je ograđeno nakon ljeta 2014. i tvrtka „Skladgradnja“ , koja je na natječaju županijske Lučke uprave, investitora izgradnje lukobrana, dobila posao, počela je sa završnim radovima. Do početka lipnja iduće godine lukobran bi trebao biti u potpunosti završen. Na kameni nasip lukobrana sada se najprije postavljaju betonski blokovi, koje “Skladgradnja” izlijeva i priprema da ih dopremi u Makarsku. Na to se postavlja oblagački kamen, koji odabire izvođač radova. Naravno da će na radove utjecati i vremenske (ne)prilike, međutim, u planu je da se novi lukobran otvori za ljeto 2015. I to sa svim uvjetima za nautičare, ugradnjom priključaka za struju i vodu.
Zimski radovi na lukobranu u Makarskoj 7
DO LANTERNE SV. PETAR
Lukobran je nova šansa za cijelu Makarsku rivijeru jer će duž cijele te obale podno Biokova nautičari imati sigurnost u glavnom gradiću tog područja. Izgradnjom lukobrana potaknute su i druge inicijative, kad se s makarske rive gleda na desnu puntu, onaj zapadni dio luke, rađa se još jedna inovacija, podsjeća gradonačelnik Tonći Bilić – Gradit će se šetnica i niz uređenih lokacija za plaže i kupališta tako da će se kroz tu divnu prirodu pružiti prilika za ugodan đir sve do svjetionika Sveti Petar...
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Makarsku svakako čekaju novi izazovi, nju kao domaćina i novu turističku publiku kojoj je ta nautičarska Makarska još privlačnija nego prije. Makarska postaje atraktivnim odredištem već u Zagrebu jer tunelom s autoputa putuje se izravno do mora podno Biokova, do Brela, Baške Vode, Baškog Polja, Igrana, Gradaca, Podgore...
Priča iz prve ruke: Danica Čokolić, turistički vodič
AMBASADORI
HRVATSKE D
anica Čokolić je po pozivu, ili po vokaciji, dakle po svom najdubljem osjećaju, „rasni“ turistički vodič, kako se to kaže „od malih nogu“. Valja to izbacit u prvi plan njene priče jer zapravo nikad nije bila turistički vodič u svojoj karijeri – sve dok nije otišla u mirovinu.
Za Lučki vjesnik ispričala Danica ČOKOLIĆ
– Moram priznati da sam u stvari inženjer poštanskog i telekomunikacijskog prometa, a nakon 36 godina rada, otišla sam u mirovinu. I tek tada postala turistički vodič. Zbilja sam oduvijek htjela biti vodič, učila sam oduvijek jezike, zanimala me ta neobična profesija onoga koji drugima otkriva svijet, povijest, kulturu, običaje, identitet prostora i ljudi među koje je kao turist banuo. Znači, očito je da se moja ličnost sama od sebe odmah okrenula tom pozivu čim sam se našla u mirovini.
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Kad si mlad duhom, onda je priča Danice Čokolić lako razumljiva: – Tako sam 2007. godine odlučila položiti tečaj za turističkog vodiča. I osjetila sam se konačno svoja. Druga je stvar što taj posao nimalo nije lagan, zabavan, opušten,
kako se misli. Naprotiv, ima stresa koliko god hoćeš. Međutim, posao turističkog vodiča je izuzetno bitan u turizmu i šteta je što se to u nas još uvijek ne prepoznaje. Turističke vodiče valja okupiti, organizirati, usmjeriti, omogućiti im najbolje uvjete rada jer to su zapravo uvjeti za onog turista a ne za vodiča. Posao je i odgovoran, zahtjevan, susrećete se s ljudima najrazličitijih kultura, vjere, država, mentaliteta, tipova, znanja i neznanja, ne možete niti pretpostaviti što vas sve čeka. Danica Čokolić u svom poslu govori talijanskim, engleskim i francuskim jezikom, a ponekad i
hrvatskim – šali se: – Naravno da su to uglavnom stranci, ali ima i puno situacija u kojima morate dobro znati i hrvatski. Jezici su onaj osnovni alat, ali ima još puno toga što valja znati, potreban je širok spektar obrazovanja, pa se zbilja ponosim tim bedžom turističkog vodiča. Nije fraza kad se kaže da je turistički vodič istinski ambasador svoje zemlje. I nikad nisi zadovoljan koliko si obrazovan, napominjem, kako se ne bi pomislilo da mislim o sebi kao o sveznalici. Nego to je ono što bi trebalo, stalno širiti svoja znanja. I kako ih prenositi na ljude putnike koji očekuju ipak odmor, a ne naporan studij uživo, na ulici, po trgovima i posvuda kamo su došli uživati. Zaljubljena u Split, Danica ističe koliko ga voli i kako je cijeli život provela usred grada, u stanu svog oca Bognola na Pjaci, tako da joj je Dioklecijanova palača zapravo svoj dvor.
BUS „Problemi turističkih vodiča pojavljuju se na svakom koraku, već na onom prvom, na primjer u Splitu kad nahrupe autobusi oko Lučke kapetanije pa iz njih u tom metežu ispadaju turističke grupe... Mislim da su zaslužili svoj mali uređeni prostor. A mi vodiči trčimo okolo i tražimo svaki svoj autobus.“
SPORT „Split svakome predstavljam kao grad kulture i sporta. Olimpijska aleja slavnih tvrđava je sporta i kulture. Zaboravljamo koliko je bitan taj sport. U cijelom smo svijetu poznati po brojnim legendarnim sportskim zvijezdama, cijenjenima više tamo nego u nas.“ 10
Viška riva
– Studirajući francuski, veliku sam pomoć imala od Denegrija s Francuskog instituta u Splitu, ali ne samo kod učenja jezika, nego i svega ostaloga. Vodič se mora znati snaći u iznenadnim okolnostima, prilagoditi se, u sat i po ili najviše dva potpuno se približiti ljudima koje vodi, pronaći načina da ga slušaju i da zapamte ukratko tu golemu priču koju im nema kad ispričati do u detalje. Mi smo zapravo reklameri naše regije, kako bi je na talijanskom predstavili – „piccola, fragile e importante“. Dalmacija je reprezentativna ponuda Hrvatske sa četiri od ukupno osam nacionalnih parkova, te sa pet od ukupno sedam destinacija koje su pod zaštitom UNESCO-a. Onako kako ih čuva UNESCO, morali bismo i mi, ali često privatni interesi nadjačaju zajedničke. Šteta da i oni najgramziviji ne vide kako u konačnosti i njima koristi štititi zajednički, a ne privatni interes. ANEGDOTE „Kao vodič se susrećete s ugodnim, ali i s neugodnim iznenađenjima. Jednom su neki sišli s broda u Splitu i pitaju je li ovo Sarajevo. Pamtim i panične situacije, na fontani usred grada, idem se napiti vode kad se jedan Talijan posklizne, pukne mu arkada i krvi do koljena! Trebalo se snać, trč u apoteku, a za mnom cijela grupa... i svima je iznenada nešto trebalo iz apoteke, napravila sam čudo prometa u toj ljekarni!“
Split
Na Zlatnim vratima
ispod Grgura Ninskog
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M
ilan Bilić iz Trogira ime je među turističkim vodičima u Dalmaciji. Nekidan je proslavio 75. rođendan, a i na fotografiji možete provjeriti – koliko bi mu dali? Mora bit da posao turističkog vodiča čovjeka čini neobično vitalnim jer kao da mu je i zadaća biti mlad, svjež i sposoban zbog bujice zahtjeva i pitanja sve većeg broja turista koji posjećuju Trogir, Split, Dubrovnik, Šibenik… Novi su trendovi, ljude koji putuju ne zanima više odmor, kupanje, sunčanje, skijanje i slično. Žele i nešto saznati. A na hrvatskom Jadranu nižu se gradovi i gradići s poviješću i kulturom. Trogir je na primjer stariji od Splita, njemu je oko dvije i pol tisuće godina. – Pa di se onda ja sa svojih 75 neću osjećati mladim?! – šali se Milan Bilić. SVI VODIČI ZAJEDNO Njegova je funkcija zanimljiva jer je predsjednik i organizator za golemu grupu od 148 turističkih vodiča.
– Uočio sam da nikoga nije dovoljno brige za naš posao i da nas ima puno koji se zbog toga osjećamo tužno, a zajedništvo može biti snaga i zajednica u kojoj se osjećaš sigurnijim. Tako sam došao na ideju da nije potrebno robovati gradovima ili regijama nego je nas 148 vodiča našlo zajednički interes u zajedničkoj ideji i pogledu na svoj posao pa smo se ujedinili neovisno sa svih strana, ima nas iz Šibenika, Korčule, Dubrovnika… A udruga koju smo pokrenuli zove se Tragurion. Zanimljiva je Bilićeva vizija. Nije se skanjivao «šćetoneto» reć: – Apsolutistički tražim da sve ja vodim i da se sve mene pita u toj udruzi! Kad Bilić to kaže, dođe vam se nasmijati, nasmije se i on, ali iza toga stoji ozbiljni stav jer bez toga u navodnike apsolutizma, ništa inače ne možeš postići. – U našoj udruzi sve funkcionira besprijekorno, a lako je to provjeriti kroz financije, što je danas svima najvažnije mjerilo. Novac i samo novac. Tako se možemo pohvaliti da se nikad nikome nije dogodilo da nije bio plaćen za posao koji je
pošteno odradio, ali jednako tako, mi sami znamo odlučiti o nečijem ponašanju da bi za njega bilo najbolje da se ostavi ovoga našega časnoga posla. Jer je naš posao visokih kriterija, morala i obaveza, etike i edukativnih imperativa. ISSA, TROGIR I SV. NIKOLA Milan Bilić je zaljubljen u svoj Trogir i sve zna o njemu, simpatično je s njim prošetat Trogirom, nema kamena o kojemu ne bi mogao pričati satima. – Kamena ploča ugrađena u južni zid samostana svetoga Nikole potječe iz 3. stoljeća prije Krista. Tragurium je grad i otok koji pripada Issi, dakle ondašnjem otoku Visu, iz vremena kad su Stari Grci Issu imali za glavno središte svoje domovine. Ta veza Visa i Trogira uvijek me baci u razmišljanja baš za Svetoga Nikolu kad u Komiži ritualno spale neku staru gajetu. Još kao dijete sam se zanosio pozivom turističkog vodiča, a nisam ni znao o čemu se radi. Privlačile su me te stare priče o nama, Trogiru, tradiciji, povijesti, kulturi, legendama.
Milan Bilić, predsjednik udruge turističkih vodiča „Tragurion“
TROGIR U OK Ispričao za Lučki vjesnik Milan BILIĆ
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Bilića su učili poslu poznati stručnjaci iz te domene, kao Vinko Kovačić i stari Zamberlin, kaže Milan. – Ta moja stara ljubav odmah se probudila čim sam otišao u mirovinu 1999. godine i potpuno sam se od tada posvetio turizmu, vodičima, prijateljima itd. Milan Bilić govori nekoliko jezika, a bavio se uglavnom poslom bliskim turizmu te je poznat kao direktor u turističkim firmama. Godine 2005. postao je predsjednik velike zajednice turističkih vodiča i odmah mu je palo na pamet da ode u Dubrovnik, okupi zainteresirane, priključi se ljudima koji su vodili grupe i agencije. – Svima je odmah bilo jasno o čemu govorim i svi su nam dali potporu jer turistički vodič je glavni motor cijele priče o turizmu i tko to ne prepoznaje, taj izravno radi loše turizmu. Bilo nas je u početku 30tak, a sad nas je skoro 150. U našoj udruzi turističkih vodiča raspolažemo s poznavanjem 14 svjetskih jezika pa smo spremni reagirat na sasvim neočekivane zahtjeve i
rijetke slučajeve s grupama, svakoga možemo dočekati i pomoći mu, u našem znanju nema rupa.
Zaljubljenici Trogira i prijatelji, Bilić i Jerolim Ostojić, gradonačelnik iz devedesetih SAKSOFON I KINESKI Milan Bilić je univerzalac, bavi se i glazbom, svira saksofon, još uvijek nastupa u narodnoj trogirskoj glazbi. U mladosti je svirao po hotelima. – Nema toga tko bi me odvojio od turizma i glazbe. Radim nonstop, može se nazvat i mene i moje suradnike u svako doba dana i noći. Jezike govorimo da ne nabrajam sve do kineskog. A nemamo poslovnih prostora, moja kancelarija mi je u džepu.
Udruga ima i web-stranicu. – Ali sve se odvija preko mog apsolutističkog mobitela – smije se Bilić. Nećeš ti apsolutizma! Pa tko bi imao toliko ljubavi i volje objediniti sve te turističke vodiče da nema Milana Bilića. To je ona vrst apsolutizma u kojemu je kralj najveći sluga svome narodu. – Ima puno lipih stvari koje nas na to obavezuju. Na primjer grad Trogir. Tko još pozna takav grad, pa cijeli je pod zaštitom UNESCO-a, grad i spomenik istodobno. Ali naše geslo je otvorenost prema svijetu. Slijedimo ideju Marmonta koji je dao srušiti zidine Trogira, gradića na otoku potpuno zatvorenog u tvrđavu. S Marmontom se prvi put rađa mišljenje da je to srednjovjekovni grad-konzerva i da se tu talože razne boleštine. Samo na dvoja vrata se moglo izaći, a plemkinje su šetale s paževima između stražara. Svaka plemićka palača imala je kulu i renesansnu terasu. Šetnja od terase do terase. I to je bilo sve. Marmont je prvi koji je dao srušiti zidine i tako zapravo izjednačio pučanke i plemkinje koje su počele dijeliti taj ugodni svježi zrak. Ideja o potrebi svježeg zraka je neuništiva i u svakom smislu se turistički vodiči kao prosvjetitelji i prenositelji znanja drže tih plemenitih načela.
KU SVIJETA
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Zimski brend Srednje Dalmacije
BAKALARA, TUKE, ODOJKA, PRŠUTA, FRITULA ZA O’SVECA A ko se mislite gdje dočekati Božić i Novu godinu 2015. onda brzo u brod, na avion, vlak, na autocestu i pravac Hrvatska! Otkuda god krenuli, na hrvatskoj obali Jadrana ste za čas. A onda birajte! Posvuda su i morske dubine i planinske visine, podno Velebita ili podno Biokova. A sunca, blage zimske klime i morske utihine kao sveopće tišine, jer je zima van sezone – koliko ti srce zaželi. Hrvatska će na Jadranu vrlo brzo postati baš zimska destinacija. A u Srednjoj Dalmaciji se Lučka uprava Splitskodalmatinske županije trudi postati suvremenim živućim „svecem-zaštitnikom“. Prosinac se u Dalmaciji slavi kao nigdje, blagdani sv. Nikole posvećeni moru i pomorcu, a u unutrašnjosti uz druge običaje vezane za tradiciju podneblja poznatog po pršutu.
Pučišća, otok Brač 14
Slavi se i vikend poslije Svetoga Nikole – Sveta Luce, a onda slijede Božić i Nova godina, bakalar i fritule, blagdanski jelovnici s tukom (puretinom), pršutom i odojkom, uz svečane jaslice i badnjak, božićna toplina tradicije obiteljskog okupljanja. Blagdansko raspoloženje proteže se sve do Sveta Tri kralja u prvom tjednu nove godine 2015., a dok mnogi lete u zimska skijaška središta, raste privlačnost Hvara u suncu, Visa, Šolte, Brača, Velog i Malog Drvenika, srednjodalmatinskih otoka s kraljicom Palagružom na pučini 40 milja od otoka Visa i njegovih špilja, Biševa, Svetog Andrije itd. Srednja Dalmacija sve spremnije čeka ljude s mora, pomorce, nautičare, izletnike s jedrenjaka, upućene u zimske čari blagog ljeta iz-
van sezone i pretjeranih temperatura, nevera i užurbanog svijeta. Zima je idealna da se poput pravog zaštitnika brine o lukama, pristaništima i malim marinama, lučicama i mandračima za najmanje brodice, kako bi se složili svi potrebni uvjeti za bilo kojeg pomorca-namjernika. Gradi se posvuda, ali to ipak nije na teret zimskom gostu. Kreće porat i veza Trogira s Drvenicima, vezovi za Krilo Jesenice, prva luka u povijesti Omiša, lukobran koji Makarsku lansira u globalnu nautiku, idealna trajektna veza podno Biokova s Hvarom (Sućurje), niz kvalitetnije građenih luka po otocima, u Hvaru, Jelsi i Starome Gradu, na Visu, Šolti (Rogač), Braču (Bol, Supetar, Postira, Sumartin)… Uistinu još sretnija 2015.! M.G.
Palagruža
SUMMER IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER By Mario GARBER
THE HEART OF THE MEDITERRANEAN: In the pre-Internet era, we would tell you that in your hands, you are holding the 14th issue of Port News. Today, you’re holding onto our imaginary helm as you sail away with us, no vessel necessary – all you need is our magazine, Port News. Via the Internet, even in the middle of winter, you can sail into the beauty that is the Adriatic, the heart of the Mediterranean, or right into Central Dalmatia, the very
region that is set in the County of Split and Dalmatia. The County Port Authority has been publishing our magazine for nautical enthusiast for four years now. THE OPEN SEAS OF 2015: Maybe you are far away, in a city like Hamburg, who knows where you are right now, but one thing is certain – you won’t be able to resist the dreams of the Adriatic as you keep in touch with us online. May you happily sail into the year 2015! Dive into the information we have laid out in front of you, and surely you will see why you should vis-
it this part of the world when the weather is much nicer. Now, you get to experience summer in the middle of winter, while everyone’s off skiing. The Croatian Adriatic is always sunny, even during January and February. THE CALAMITY OF A WINTER’S SLUMBER: The winter slumber makes the sea calm like a bathtub, which so typical of Dalmatia, it’s a calamity that you won’t see during the hottest part of the year, like the blazing month of August, as that is a time of mistrals.
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The weather here enables a lot of people to go swimming all year round, they sail away in small boats powered by oars, go fishing and catch a tan the old fashioned way, in the open. You can have a beach day in mid winter, and it will be without any worries of getting in the middle of a summer storm, or a heatwave. It’s as if the sea were a benign bear deep into its winter sleep. THE HEART OF EUROPE: While sailing with Port News, you will be able to catch the winds of Central Dalmatia even from afar, from the farthest parts of Europe, and you can plan your summer vacation during the winter months. Croatia is a country focused on its seaside and tourism, and it is located in the very heart of Europe. Perfect for any explorer, adventurer or tourist. WHERE EAST MEETS WETS: It would be a shame to miss this magical meeting of Croatia with Italy, Austria, Slovenia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Hungary, Montenegro; or feel the closeness of Kosovo, Macedonia, Albania, Serbia, Bulgaria, Romania, Greece and Turkey. This country guarantees diversity and a rich combination of indigenous cultures, intertwined with a mild, friendly and accepting climate. These are prerequisites for winter tourism, which means any well-informed traveler can find something enticing in Croatia regardless of what time of year it is, and enjoy our clear blue skies and the Adriatic Sea, thus satisfying all sorts of appetites and desires. A MOMENT FOR ADVENTURE: That is the story of Port News. The short version, the kind you can get into over the weekend. It’s a quick adventure you can embark upon, and the moment is now. A moment for adventure. Whatever way you like it, on a boat or in a travel package; Croatia is so close to anyone in Europe that no vacation plans are necessary – if you feel like visiting, come on over. In the middle of winter. And in the middle of summer! 16
S
tari Grad Paiz, the home of writer Petar Hektorović, is a town older than itself, it has the deepest roots of Croatia, Dalmatia, dating back to the Greek colonial days of Pharos. Just like every year, the town will greet Christmas with its traditional plethora of dishes: paršurat, hruštula, rakija brandy, martina, dried figs and everything else that is consumed from about eleven in the morning throughout the day. That’s how Damir Čavić sees it, the owner of the local tavern Kod Damira, wish is also the home of a unique group of people who call themselves The Ministry of Other People’s Affairs. They have a table at the tavern, a gathering of wise men, so to say.
PAIZ
PROMENADE TO
Paiz or Paese, whatever you want to call it, as it stands, is a place that will never change. How have these enthusiasts been able to actually change it remains a mystery, but it’s still impossible to find another place like it. Of course, a town like that deserves a mayor like Vinko Maroević. After who knows how many years, Vinko returned to his home town and decided to stay busy even in retirement, and he wanted to become mayor so he can do everything he can for his town. With the aid of architect Edo Šegvić, the promenade will be majestic.
- Hotels are still a touchy subject, but at least we managed to build a lovely promenade and tie ups for boats. My hear grows ten times its size from the joy I get when seeing our bay full of yachts each summer. We’ve done a lot of work on the harbor as well, and next summer, we’re ready for cruisers. As soon as next spring, we’re finishing up the town promenade and tie ups for local boats.
- Another thing I’m proud of is the fact that we have a retirement home, the first and still the only one on the island! So, it’s not that we’re not working, we’re working as much as we can within the resources we have. Don’t forget, we’re approaching a historical event for the town, and that’s the introduction of a proper sewage system. So, Paiz will remain a mini Venice, but it won’s sink. It won’t swim in you know what, but it will sail through a plethora of fish.
Stari Grad goes from Old Town to Oldest Town and even older than that if possible, but it needs hotels
AND VENICE
O PROMENADE
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NAUTICAL TSUNAMI
GRADUATION AT SEA Every summer, new generations of Austrian high school seniors come to central Dalmatia and cruise its coast in trabakul boats and sailboats, hosting ‘silent parties’ in Dalmatian towns. Photo report by Segor GARBER
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or the last ten years or so, Mr. Lukas and his Austrian company has been bringing tourist from Austria to the Adriatic Coast. It all began spontaneously, when he went boat-hopping with a group of friends, cruising the Central Adriatic area. For some time, tourists used to sail exclusively towards Kornat and would go on hikes there, but over the last few seasons, Lukas has been organizing graduation excursions for senior high school students , with some fifty sailboats and about ten trabakul boats. They sail from town to town, visit gulfs and coves, and in the evenings, they host spectacular parties. Stari Grad was the host of three
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‘silent parties’.At these parties, attendants are give bracelets while they’re still on their boats, which give them entry to rented movie theaters where they get a pair of headphones, so the whole party is in full swing while still remaining quiet and not disturbing any of the locals in the peaceful town of Stari Grad. Senior high school students get into other activities on the boats, sports and entertainment – for example, hey go water skiing. Along the way, they learn about maritime navigation, but they also fall in love with the Adriatic Sea, and have to come back year after year, remaining connected to the Central Adriatic. Lukas estimates that this year, he will be the host to more than one thousand
guests. One of his crew is twentyseven-year-old Bettina Kirsche, who handles most of the bookings, but the most interesting thing about her is that she speaks Croatian fluently. One of the reasons Bettina became a part of this endeavor is the fact that her parents frequently visited the Adriatic. When she enrolled at university, still enamoured with Croatia, its people, sea and sun, she says she decided to take English, Italian and Austrian as her majors – but – there was also an additional course in Slavic languages. Thus, Lukas has a company that is fully equipped, and every summer it keeps maturing at sea, being the host to many graduating high school students.
Stipe BOŽIĆ for Port News Croatian mountain climber who’s climbed the world’s seven highest mountain tops, TV travel journalist and filmmaker, published author
H I M A L AYA Biokovo is the mountain of my life. I was born in the small village of Zavojane, and from there you can see Biokovo in all its glory. As a child, I was always mesmerized by the sight of such heights, their mysteries, so I can only imagine how tourists and sailors feel when they come to Makarska and feast their eyes on the southern side of Biokovo, when they meet this huge rock, this wall that beacons them. Saint Mihovil (Michael) is the top of Biokovo, a spot that made my head spin when I was a kid, and I couldn’t tell you when is Biokovo in its finest edition – it could be during the bountiful summer months, or during the winter, when it reminds me of the Himalayas. This dominance of Biokovo over the entire Makarska Riviera and its beautiful beaches gives you a complete picture of the area, because it gives you the feeling of nothing being held back, from top to bottom, from the warm see to the brisk mountain tops. All these sights have a hold on me and I can’t resist them, I have to feel them, become friends with them, become a part of them. That’s why I have the same attitude when climbing high or going down, like going deep into the 1395 meters deep Luka’s Pit on Velebit Mountain, or diving – which I love and consider myself a ‘sea dog’, so when I’m coming out of the sea and my eyes go up to Biokovo, I just love to stare up into the sky and feel adventure calling.
DID YOU KNOW ... that Biokovo was named for its snowy whiteness... ... that the Ratsnake is considered one of Europe’s most beautiful snakes... ... that man inhabited Biokovo in prehistoric times, long before any letters... ... that Biokovo is the most important junction for the endemic flora... ... that it is possible to see 250 km away Italy from Biokovo... ... that there are more than 87 churches and chapels on Biokovo... ... that the pit Mokre Noge at 839m is the deepest on Biokovo... ... that Biokovo has 7 species of amphibians and 21 species of reptiles registered...
... that Biokovo is the tallest mountain closest to the coast on the Mediterranean... ...that up to now on Biokovo over 400 caves have been found... ... that 19 550 ha of Biokovo was declared a protected nature park in 1981... ... that cold air spilling from Biokovo creates the famous Bora wind... ... that St. Jure with 1762 m is the highest peak of Biokovo and the second highest peak... ... that the oldest rocks on Biokovo originate from 220 m. years ago... ... that church of St. Jure on Biokovo is the highest church in Croatia...
THE WONDERS
OF BIOKOVO
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ZLATNI RAT AND LITTLE BIG BOL
Bol Mayor Tihomir Marinković talks about upcoming projects that will take Bol, a town that is already a famous tourist brand, straight to the top of the world
A SPECTACLE ON THE PORT STAGE
Vision of the future port in Bol: from projectum and IGH; Andro Banovac, Lea Aviani and Željan Pernat
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B
ol is no longer just a domestic brand, actually, it's been a global brand for quite some time now. Zlatni rat beach is a staple of Bol. Global tourist trends have created a demand for Bol so high, the town just doesn't have the capacity to handle all of it. It's because of this that the citizens of Bol, those in charge of the town and the creators of its attractive tourist programs have planned out a completely fresh Bol, a town with 150 new berths – to meet the demands of sailors, yachts and sailboats – all with new breakwaters, ensuring a port that's safe from winds and strong sea currents, which will also have many other useful features. Zlatni rat is, both during the day and at nighttime, breathtaking. It's a dance of daylight, sunshine and night time magic. Nobody can remain indifferent at such sights. Tihomir Marinković, 59, is the Mayor of Bol, and is in his third term, still working with his associates on projects that will review the island town. In the next two years, their longtime dreams will come to life. – We've turned Bol into a real life theater stage, both with the way it looks and what it has to offer its visitors. The only thing we still have to do is finish this new port, for mega yachts, one that is outside of the port, and it will have an additional 150 berths. The port will also enable a boat line, but most certainly not a ferry boar line. Catamaran – yes. The next phase will be constructing access for mini cruise ships, plus, we're working on roads that connect Bol with the center of the Island of Brač, and we're building a nice lookout point that will be perfect for romantic couples. They'll get a perfect spot to take photos and create memories of one of the best summers of their lives. Bol is a small town with some 1630 residents, but during the summer, when it full of tourists, the place has a population of twelve thousand. Once this „New" Bol is complete, it's hard to estimate how many people will live here during the summer months.
BY DAY & NIGHT
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Port Authority Projects
A PORT AND A
Huge plans are about to become reality: The people of Omiš will get their first port, connecting the city to both land and sea
PROMENADE FOR OMIŠ By the Port News Editorial Team (Photos and other material provided by the Port Authority) Photo: Segor GARBER
H
alf way between Makarska and Split you'll find Omiš, a town with a rich buccaneer history – look up the story of Komite – and a place that was once called a natural Hollywood due to its beauty and the ability to use its scenery as the perfect setting for any story you have to tell. On its own, Omiš is much like a story from the movies, a living film you can visit and feast your eyes wherever you may wonder. Dinara Hill stands atop of Omiš, along with the canyon of the Cetina River, which acts like a crooked and exciting road that takes you from land to sea – and is also a great rafting spot. The town has all the extreme
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characteristics of the Adriatic – heights and low points, a river and a seaside, a cramped town with narrow streets, Dalmatian food and 'klapa' groups, pebble, sand and stone beaches... But, Omiš doesn't have a port. A real port, the kind you see as a refuge while traveling, a place to rest and have a good night out as soon as you step onto land. CETINA AND THE SEA This is where the Port Authority of the Split-Dalmatia County steps in, and looks after its fifty plus ports, providing safe investments in construction and development of new facilitates, in accordance to the ever-increasing traffic, and all the
commodities of Central Dalmatia. Omiš holds a crucial spot among the many projects of the Port Authority, so the project of developing a public port is a capital interest venture and is important for the development of a town that is, in a way, constantly expanding. The process of construing a proper port, open for public traffic, means the development of breakwaters and a an operational dock that will have all the necessities – public lighting, plumbing, a hydrant network, an electrical and communication grid, and mooring made of stone.
Great expectation: First port in history of Omiš
Architectural engineer Edo Šegvić is in charge of the project, a man known for his passion for protecting and developing our shoreline, our promenades and harbors, docks and breakwaters. He sees Omiš and its potential, and applies his vision into the project of developing a town port. It will be located on the west bank of the current dock, and it will be a port that can host 110 vessels, while on the eastern bank, next to the recently renewed promenade, seasonal docks will be built, hosting some thirty to forty boats. On the west side, next to the port dock, new facilities are being planned in the segment of beach sports and leisure. This will be the home to new beach facilities, including a Port Authority Office, public restrooms and a cafes – all compact, about ten to twenty square meters each. The shore will be getting a new, 410-meter-long promenade with a proper walkway – meaning that Omiš will be getting its first 'riva'! It's an outstanding surprise for the locals, as well as their guests. The
walkway will be decorated with stone plates, a set of Jardinieres (a total of 19, three by nine meters each), as well as pedestrian tracks and stairs, about three meters wide, giving the town a whole new image. Twenty nine mulberries will be planted in the Jardinieres, accompanied by benches made of wood and stone, which will be a perfect resting sport, giving shade in the summer and offering sunshine in the summertime. A bus stop is close by, a flagpole, a spring water fountain, a sculpture, a mosaic labyrinth, a small stage, a monument and, as a symbol of the port, a large anchor. This new port is located near the highway on the east exit out of downtown Omiš, and typical to the town itself, its elaborately shaped as an S. That's another project, lead by GEOPROJEKT and Jurica Vojnović. Finally, the infamous S-shaped curve issue will be solved. Another communal project is the construction of a multipurpose building for seasonal city manifestations and leisure activities. All existing monuments, such as
the Fisherman Statue, the Veteran's Statue which pays respect to the people of Dugi Rat, Šestanovac and Zadržavaju (by Kažimir Hraste) will stay in place, as well as the current shrubbery. Edo Šegvić is planning it all, and can finally say that the town of Omiš will be getting its first port, as well as a promenade.
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I
vo Pervan is one of those artists who uses photography as a weapon with which he fights for Croatia. – I'd like to explain to people what sort of beauty we have in Croatia, make people understand that what we have is exceptional and they should notice it, as people abroad appreciate it more than we do. Example? One of my favorite spots for sailing is under the Biokovo Hill, from Vruje to the east or west along the coast. There's a special current flowing there and there's always at least a little bit of wind, so it's an ideal setting for sailing enthusiasts. But, I don't remember ever seeing a sailboat in that area. We should have turned that place into a brand. Not just for sailing, but photography as well. Where do sailing enthusiasts go? To the places they've seen on great photos. Everyone knows that Croatia is an ideal place, the best on Planet Earth, as its climate is mild and features all four seasons, so diverse, you can enjoy each one of them at their finest.
– I'm starting to bore myself with this lamentation, you know, let's expand the tourist season, tourism is everything to us, we don't have any industry, we don't produce anything. So, tourism has to be a source of profit throughout the entire year. It should continue after the summer season ends. I know for a fact that there are people out there that would visit at any time of year, especially those into sailing, because all they care about is our weather conditions. Our entire coast is basically a small passage, a channel with just the right amount of air flow due to the mountains being so close to the sea, plus, we have a lot of islands. Učka, Velebit, Dinara, Kozjak, Mosor, and Biokovo at almost 1700 meters. CROATIA'S PROVANSA AND TUSCANY When talking about such famous destinations as Provence and Tuscany, Pervan claims Croatia can offer the exact same thing: – You'll see Tuscany in Istria, Bukovica, Poljička Republic in Dalmatia, the Island of Hvar...
As a photographer, I have proven that we have incredible sights in our beautiful country, scenes that are created by unique areas. Our atmosphere gives way to subtle changes, games of lights and shadows, four seasons playing across a mild climate – all enable magnificent photos. OUR COD IN OSLO The Norwegians called up and wanted 'Falkuša' to come to Oslo, as they wanted to see the boat constructed by Croatia's traditional shipbuilders. So, 'Falkuša' traveled to Oslo to attend the celebration of the 200th Anniversary of the Kingdom of Norway. Everyone was amazed. – We gave them a cooking lesson. What did we cook? Their own cod. White, then red sauce. They were thrilled, ate every up like they were termites, two big forty-liter pots of cod. Their food is disastrous, and we had to prove to them that we have our own culinary brand. However, they're much better than us at everything else. People take care of each other, and their country looks after them.
THE SEA NURTURES Renowned photographer Ivo Pervan Interviewed by Mario GARBER
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SHAKESPEARE
AT THE BAR Andro doesn't back down from anything. And he could expose everyone, make fun of every hypocrite and faker out there. Actually, Andro was born to be a satirist. He delivers satire through his own medium. It's not the newspapers, it's not a book, it's not on the radio, TV or on the Internet. Andro delivers satire through a medium that he controls, and it's called 'the kitchen'. Okay, a cafe terrace will do, or a bar. He's like Shakespeare in front of a stove.
A
ndro Slavić is a famous caterer from Vis, and over the last couple of years, he has set sail to the Island of Budihovac, which many interpret as his great escape. In actuality, he's found refuge on a group of small islands that can become to Vis what the Paklenjaci are to Hvar.
Andro is an unusual man, funny and original. In a way, he's almost scary to his guest, but soon everyone finds out what lies under his masquerade: a fullblown gala of boats, the sea, people, good jokes and great food, drinks and fish.
Island of Vis, beauty of Budihovci
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Palagruža rock and roll: Famous fisherman Kalambera and his sailor Duje Jerković
VINE AND GUITARS Vis, Kut, The Jerković Family, vine, drinks, everything
I
Ivo Jerković Jela
ntense preparations for the summer of 2015 are underway. There isn’t a place that isn’t getting ready for something new, crazy, never before seen. In the small town of Kut on the Island of Vis, the newly built promenade is attracting visitors, as it finally accommodates all demands of sailing enthusiasts. It’s certainly authentic to tie your boat in front of a rustic house, perhaps a small summer home of Croatian aristocracy of yesteryear, today an apartment complex owned by Ivo 26
Jerković, a famous tourism and catering entrepreneur. He’s a man know around Split as an entertainer, a singer from a couple of decades ago. As the saying goes, the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree, and so his son Duje Jerković, now a grown man himself, has realized the family has to come back to the island full time. This winter, he’s working like crazy in the front yard of his father’s home, a house so close to the sea that a tourist could jump face first from his yacht and land straight into a bowl of fish stew, accompanied by a barrel of vine. Jerković’s vine, of course, the Plavac of Vis sort.
And that’s good, because our guest is safe and his boat, too. The wine, Plavac by Jerković, acts like an anchor and will keep our guest leveled. From buoy to buoy, you can travel across the entire Adriatic. The tavern, once finished, will look tremendous. Duje Jerković has spent many years fishing with Kalember at Palagruža. Jele, his father, is an illustrator, painter, he does oils, water colors, he also plays the guitar and sings in a locally famous ‘klapa’ vocal group. It’s a great time to settle in and get into the islanders way of life, while construction is still going on, and while there’s still room.
Mooring in front of the Jerković’s place in Kut, town of Vis
T
he town of Jelsa on the Island of Hvar is one of those small coastal towns that never leaves your memory band and you think about it for every future summer you will have, no matter where you go, you will always remember Jelsa, Vrbovska in the woods, close to its narrow bay, up to the town of Stari Grad, just a couple of miles away, and the many coves of that area. Jelsa is a romantic and eternal tale. There’s more to the town than that. A sailor by blood and tradition, Božidar Gamulin is a man that can point to any stone in town and he will tell you endless tales about it, so many interesting stories that you will consider staying there for good, just so you don’t forget anything Jelsa, the Port Authority f the County of Split and Dalmatia is rebuilding the town’s harbor in several phases. Right now, they are working on the bottom end of the harbor and the
promenade, which will end up looking beautifully, and the phase after that will bring the people of Jelsa something they’ve dreamed about for a very long time – protection from the Bura wind. - We love working – so says Božidar Gamulin, a sailor with deep nautical roots. This will be a new town of Jelsa and then some, especially once we have our breakwater, which will enable us to go out to sea in any type of win, even Bura. For now, we’re enticed by the looks of the new promenade and how big and wide it is, our guests are going to love it. It’s nice to see something is being build all the time, each summer brings us something new. Our guests see this, too. The locals are enthusiastic about the development of our local museum and its connection to the annual Procession of the Cross, which is a huge Easter event for us, and something the town of Jelsa is known for.
Currently, the town of Jelsa is resting after a tourist season, and the locals feel much better when they see their town is being taken care of, while life goes on as it always has, with a strong connection to fishing, vineyards and olive orchards. - Everyone’s complaining, but we’re not, because at our new vineyard, we picked up six hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon, about five tons of it. Sure, it’s a long way from Jelsa, but the most important thing is to continue growing, and eventually we’ll pick up every grape out there.! That’s what Andre Tomić of Jelsa says, and he’s quite an unusual artist and a poet of vineyards Once in Jelsa, you must visit the fish market. You won’t find a place like that anywhere else. This time of year, the only people who buy there are locals; from Jelsa, Hvar or Stari Grad. You’ll find fish caught by boat, line, trawl line, net... All the wonders of the sea. Calamari as well! And at Christmas time, ‘fritula’ donuts. Andrija KRIŽANČIĆ
JELSA AGAINST THE BURA WIND
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Nature most definitely spoiled
SEASIDE SPECIAL
AMFORA O ne of the oldest symbols of Croatia tourism is most definitely the Amfora Hotel. It's a place people visit at least for a seaside walk through the pine woods on the west end of town. With its indoor swimming pool, Amfora used to be quite a winter hit with local athletes, and now it's a magnificent place with a great front view and an open swimming pool. And while at the pool, you can gaze at the wonderful Paklenjaci Islands. – Amfora is doing great. We will bravely admit that we have managed to pick up on all aspects that seemed pessimistic at the start of the tourist season – so says Igor Tabak, the hotel's manager, where he works under Chairperson of the Board Gordana Tomčić. And COO 28
Ivan Sapundžić. – This summer is a bit odd, full of thunderstorms, and that was a setback for us. But hey, we're coming around. This will, in the end, be a record year for us. These days Amfora is a hotel frequented by Americans, English, French, Scandinavians, and in midsummer, lots of Germans and French as well. Apart from the open pool with deck chairs where you can get an all-day tan for 600 kunas, Balkan Grill is another hit. It features various grilled delicacies, starting with the super popular chevapi. – We don't classify our guests under any standards. There are no exclusives. Everything is done in a high quality way, and we offer everything to all, even fast food
– Tabak explains. – We're always looking for extra guests, and this year, we've been having more people from Brazil, even from Taiwan. Movie stars love the Amfora Hotel. Hollywood actress Keira Knightley was here with her husband James Righton, who performed at the For Festival. Keira started er party season at Carpe Diem in Hvar Town, while her husband Righton performed at Veneranda with his band, Klaxons. Famous actor Johnny Depp also enjoyed Amfora earlier this summer. Superstar athletes like Edin Džeko and Seniad Ibričić also love the place, handball players swear by it, and its a place loved by many sports celebs.
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First hand tale: Danica Čokolić, tourist guide
AMBASSADORS
OF CROATIA
B
y her title, or more accurately, by her vocation or her deepest feelings, Danica Čokolić is what is known as a ‘purebred’ tourist guide, and she was up for the job since childhood. We need to point that out early on because she actually didn’t become a tourist guide until she was well into her retirement. – I must admit, I am in fact an engineer of postal and telecommunication traffic, a job I retired from after working for thirty-six years. It was only then that I became a tourist guide. And honestly, being a tourist guide is something I had always wanted to be. I studied languages, I was interested in the intriguing profession of a tourist
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guide – this person whose job is to introduce others to the wonders of the world, history, culture, bringing them closer to other cultures, ways of life, regional and personal identities, because tourist often find themselves in the middle of new things. So, it was only natural that once I had retired, I decided to take up on this new calling. When you’re young in spirit, you’ll easily understand the story Danica Čokolić has to say: – Sometime in 2007 I had decided to take a course to become a tourist guide. I finally felt like myself, truly. On the other hand, this is not an easy job, nor it is as fun and relaxing as one might think. On the
contrary, there is plenty of stress. However, the position of a tourist guide is one that is crucial to the business of tourism, and it’s a shame that fact isn’t very well accepted in our country. Tourist guides need to assemble, get organized, seek and find guidance, make sure they have the best working conditions – it’s actually for the benefit of the tourist more than for the benefit of the guide. It is a responsible and demanding job. You meet people from
all sorts of cultural backgrounds, different religions, nationalities, mentalities, different ways of life, those who have and those who don’t have knowledge, so there’s no way of predicting what sort of tourists you will work with.
At work, Danica Čokolić finds herself talking in Italian, English, French, and sometimes – she’ll say jokingly – even in Croatian. – Sure, I mostly talk to foreigners while working, but there are plenty of situations in which you have to know Croatian very well. Languages are the essential tool of tourist guides, but there are many other things a person has to know, you need to have a broad spectrum of knowledge. Because of that, I’m proud to wear my tourist guide badge. It’s not just a saying, when you’re a tourist guide, you are indeed an ambassador of your country. And you’re never satisfied, no matter how educated you are, and I have to stress this, because I don’t want to sound like some know-itall. It’s just what you have to do in this line of work, you have to continuously broaden your knowledge.
Turists in Split
You also have to know how to give information to our guests in a relaxed manner, you are not running a school class, people on vacation do not want to study while taking a tour on the street, town squares or wherever else you have to take them. Danica is in love with Split and she often points out how much she loves her city. She has spent her entire life here, downtown, in her father Bognolo’s apartment at Pjaca Square, and she’ll tell you that Diocletian’s Palace is like her backyard. While studying French, I had incredible help from Denergi at the French Institute in Split, but not just in the segment of learning the language itself, but with everything else that goes along with that. A guide has to know how to handle unexpected situations, adapt, you need to
find a way for people to listen to you and to remember, in a short amount of time, this huge story you’re telling them, a story in which you can’t go into the details. We are actually advertisers of our region, one which the Italians call ‘piccola, fragile e importante’. Dalmatia can certainly represent the entire country of Croatia; four of eight national parks are located here, five of seven UNESCO protected sites are also here. If UNESCO will protect this land, we must do the same, but, often times, private interests overpower public interests. It’s a shame that even those who are most greedy can’t see that in the long run, it would be better – more profitable – to protect public instead of private interests.
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Milan Bilić is the President of the Tourist Guide Association ‘Tragurion’
TROGIR IN THE EYE OF THE WORLD Tragurium was a town and an island as well, belonging to Issa, today know as the Island of Vis, and this was back when the ancient Greeks had Issa as the capitol of this region. This connection between Vis and Trogir comes to mind every time around the Holiday of Saint Nicholas, when the people of Komiža (a town on the Island of Vis) traditionally set fire to an old ‘gajeta’ boat
M
ilan Bilić of Trogir is a well-known tourist guide in Dalmatia. There are new trends taking overs, he says, people aren’t interested in a simple holiday anymore, swimming, sunbathing, skiing and such is too simple. They want to learn something. This is where the Croatian side of the Adriatic comes in, as it is full of towns rich in history and culture. Trogir, for example, is a town older than Split, it’s about 2500 years old. Bilić has managed to gather round tourist guides from all over Dalmatia, about one hundred and fifty of them. - I’ve realized that us tourist guides, we have mostly equal opin-
ions and ideas about our work, we all want to help people discover our Dalmatia, no matter where we actually hail from. There are one hundred and forty of us in Tragurion, and we come from all parts of the region – Šibenik, Korčula, Dubrovnik, everywhere. Milan Bilić is in love with his town of Trogir and he know all about it, touring Trogir with him is a lovely experience, there isn’t a stone in town that Bilić doesn’t have a long story about. - The stone plate that is installed into the south wall of the Saint Nicholas monastery dates back to the third century before Christ. Tragurium was a town and an island as well, belonging to Issa, today know as the Island of Vis, and this was back when the ancient Greeks had Issa as the capitol of this region. This connection between Vis and Trogir comes to mind every time around the Holiday of Saint Nicholas, when the people of Komiža (a town on the Island of Vis) traditionally set fire to an old ‘gajeta’ boat. Even as a child, I’d daydream about being a tourist guide, although I did not fully know what sort of job it was. I was enticed by old stories about our people, Trogir, tradition, history, culture and our legends. In our association, we have guides with a knowledge of fourteen languages, so we are ready to take on any
unusual or rare demands groups of tourists might have. We can help out anyone, there are no gaps in our knowledge. Milan Bilić is a jack-of-alltrades, he’s into music as well, he plays the saxophone, and he’s still an active member in the local folk music troupe. In his youth, he used to perform at hotels. - There isn’t a person out there that can take me away from tourism and music. I work all the time, you can call me or my associates at any time of day and night. We speak many languages, we have everything covered. But, we don’t have offices, I carry my office in my pocket. Our association does have an official web page. The entire City of Trogir is like a monument. That is why it is under the protection of UNESCO. No other town is like that. Our motto is ‘be open to the world’. Back in the Napoleon era, General Marmont had the city’s protective walls taken down; while they were up, Trogir was basically an isolated island town. Isolation lead to the development of diseases – you should always keep in mind the importance of fresh air. Once the walls were taken down, the city became open, noblewomen started walking about town even in common areas. That story tells us that we must always be opened to welcome all curious travelers.