Port News 5

APRIL 2013

NO. 5

Hearts of Central Dalmatia Messages on a Plate

Andro Tomić: In Hvar Veritas!

Drink in Hours, Not in Liters!

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e are not accidentally on the island. Brač is the first island to reach - when you leave from Split, but also from elsewhere. On Brač there is the highest peak, of all our islands in the Adriatic Sea (778 meters), it is the largest in Dalmatia (395 square kilometers), and it is best connected with the mainland. With Split there is real bridge ferry connection. Brač is one of the few islands that doesn’t have the homonymous capital.

The main characteristic of Brač are numerous coves framed by thick pine forest. On the island there is no lack of sun or shade. Even in ancient times Brač was popular for holidays, as evidenced by the remains of old Roman villas,

such as on a sandy bay near Lovrečina Postira. Zlatni rat with its 200 meter long sandy tongue speaks all languages even today. Bol is number one, it’s unique and has been for years the winner of all sorts of tourist awards.

Anyway Brač is famous for its stone.

All its towns are built in white stone.

Its heart, under the skin, is all of white marble. Brač stone has sailed the world.

Of that stone it was built Diocletian Palace in Split, the White House in Washington, the Parliament and New Palace in Vienna, the Parliament in Budapest, the Regent Palace in Trieste...

Confortably to this, Brač is also the island of artists. It’s enough to

by Elizabeta Sonjara Garber

MATINEE! WELCOME!

Combining the feast of Easter to the First of May, many who are “addicted” to the beauty of Split-Dalmatia County, its sea, its islands and towns on the coast, rushed to their destinations. They did not want to miss the end of April announced almost 30 degrees, completely clear with a slight wind, a real breath of summer in the midst of spring

Publisher: Port Authority of Split-Dalmatia County For the publisher: Port Authority director Domagoj Maroević Editor in chief: Domagoj Maroević Editor: Mario Garber Editorial concept and design: Garber media d.o.o.

Photo: Sumartin on the island of Brač

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Editorial staff: Domagoj Maroević, Ante Sanader, Mario Garber, Elizabeta Sonjara Garber, Goran Albini Kamanjo, Segor Garber (logo design) Photos: Garber media d.o.o.

Translation into English: Sandra Vujnović, Segor Garber Lector: Elizabeta Sonjara Garber

Prepress: Nenad Nazlić Printed in: Split, Slobodna Dalmacija Print d.o.o.

COVER PHOTOS: Lučki vjesnik:Jelsa, a fisherman Port News: Stari Grad, Škver, shipway ISSN 1848-4689

mention Ivan Rendić and his belfry in Ložišća, not to go any further, or the whole artistic families like the Jakšić...

There is no port on Brač where you will not see and enjoy some stone sculpture that capture you by its beauty.

Let’s sail around Brač! But if you feel so good on your pier and you want to stay there longer, you can always make a trip to the island inland (in Škrip, the desert Blaca, to Vidova gora) or to the small towns on the other side of the island. You can even take a bus, that you come across constantly, wandering around everywhere, connecting all villages, as the Flying Dutchman. Or some of the first sailors caught in the lens of our first photoreport.

ABSOLUTELY NOT TO MISS Sojourning on the island of Brač, you, in no way, should miss to taste Vitalac, a typical Brač dish of lamb offal, prepared with special aromatic herbs, that you can order in any tavern, for example at the tavern Tomić in Gornji Humac, or at Kopačina in Donji Humac, but we especially recommend the tavern on Vidova gora. That dish is on the Croatian list of protected cultural goods.

Brač cheese from breeds of sheep named pramenka will soon be found too on the list of protected Croatian products. Center dairy sheep on the island is in Nerežišće, but you’ll find it anywhere on the island, in Nerežišće you should’t miss it.

Wine and olive oil for centuries are trademarks of Brač. They are on sale everywhere, but one of the most known winery is Wine Senjković in Nerežišća, Wine Baković in Murvica and the winery Jako vino (Strong Wine) in Bol. There are many types of wines among which the most famous is Bolski Plavac.

Recommendation: Eco-ethno village Dol becomes a real culinary destination. It is located just two kilometers above Postira. In the tavern Toni, for example, after all the specialties, you can enjoy hrapaćuša, Brač cake of almonds and walnuts.

Enjoy!

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SUPETAR, MANHATTAN, “PARENT”

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upetar is a Brač New York. The center of everything. His Manhattan is Riva, the waterfront. Already in late April and early May it was full of fragrences of famous Brač lamb, fish and Slavonian kulen... Celebration of the cuisine seasonal feast, lasted for days.

Yummy!

“Parent” is the oldest preserved bracera on the Adriatic coast (built in 1907) and protected Croatian cultural heritage.

Now it is property of the town of Supetar and it will serve – instead of transporting the stone as in the old times – as a pride and joy. When it is fully renovated.

SPLITSKA Splitska is a pure extract of beauty: not even the Omiš pirates could resist not to destroy it many years ago. Ah, if they could see it today!

LOŽIŠĆA Right above Bobovišća, just a short walk, there is Ložišća, with its houses, the beautiful church tower of the famous artist Rendić and lots of beautiful memories.

MILNA You are out of potatoes or beer, there is no more oil or gasoline for the boat, or you come to enjoy a bit of partying, restaurants and music? Milna is waiting for you.

POSTIRA, YOU CAN SEE OMIŠ The stone statue takes care of its Postira.

From Postira you can see Omiš.

There are lot of new places for sailors in the port of Postira. And still they will scramble for the rope.

PUČIŠĆA Proud Pučišća, the center of culture and the pleasures of summer, all in a package.

BOBOVIŠĆA

BOL, THE PAIN OF BEAUTY

The poet Vladimir Nazor still protects his Bobovišća. His monument is by the sea.

For the first of May, column of Slovenians arriving by ferry to Supetar straight to Bol. Armed with surfboards, they start immediately to sail on the breeze. Yachts arrive by sea, cars descend from the top of the hill to the harbor. Bol does not need the season. Even in the middle of the winter, Bol bursts with beauty of the colours and sound of the sea.

There is no crowd neither in the high season. You’ll easily find the marinaberth.

Postira’s roofs

Scenes

Splitska

Su tivan

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MASLINOVA Maslinova (Olive Bay) is a bay on the southern coast of Brač, near Milna town, on the other side of the hills. It can be visited only for breath of freshness from hatcheries and a look on the ships garage in the cave.

MIRCA There is nothing, but still it has all. A bit of a small pier, stone and gravel. This is Mirca.

POVLJA Povlja prepared for the summer, too.

Awnings are widespread, front terraces removed, smells fish stew.

SUMARTIN For Sumartin it was always requested a place more. Now the requests could be accepted. There is a new bigger pier.

Trawlers have already unloaded the fish and the sailors are resting around the table. In the distance, on the horizon, appear first sails.

s from Life in Brač SUTIVAN

So small but lacks nothing. Only a little above the sea there is a Nature park, an oasis for animals, ideal for a visit with your children.

LOVREČINA Lovrečina is dragged sandy cove where people came to swim some thousand years ago. It is also a rich archaeological site with remains of early Christian basilicas, baptismal font, sarcophagus and ancient Roman villas.

Fishing boat sails from Sutivan on Brač

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SAILING IN AS A MUST

Touch my

Every town along the coast and on the islands of Central Dalmatia is just idyllic rating five stars of ‘untouched nature’. For one can always enjoy the wild and deserted coves. It’s a true pity not to sail by these towns during the day as much as during the night hours, remaining afar to observe the flights evoking hidden secrets

Pokomina, the cove on the north coast of Hvar

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hat do you thing about the notion ‘pure nature’ ? Does it awaken in you your youth, in spite of your actual age? Because, feeling young and still ‘intact’, like undiscovered nature, nowadays is something unreal just as untouched nature. And therefore over and over again, with the adrenaline in the stern, sailing is a must.

Detecting the undetected, stripping to the naked truth, fever before travel, butterflies in your stomach, while you come closer and closer to the boat to uncord and to sail to the infinite, towards the very beginning. Resist the end as long as possible. And that’s why – to sail is a must. Many things will cross your mind...

But when the sun sailed to the west, at the sunset swollen from the sun and salt, your mission and your motto ‘to sail is a must’ will surrender to the smooth sea and will admit, finally: you must sail in. Let us be honest: you also have to have dinner!

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Every town on the coast and on islands of Central Dalmatia, at the sunset, deserves the five stars title for ‘untouched nature’. Because one can always enjoy the wild, deserted cove by day and also during the night, but it’s absolute pity not to sail to the town, and just remain afar to look at flickering lights who evoke provoking and hidden secrets. Perhaps you could resist just one evening alone.

But the next one – you’ve got to sail in. In Drvenik, Nečujam or Maslinica both on the island of Šolta, Stari Grad, Hvar, Jelsa, Vrboska on the island of Hvar. Bol, Milna, Bobovišće, Sutivan, Pučišća on the island of Brač, Vis, Komiža on the island of Vis. Entire waterfalls of words have been spent on that eternal theme, whether town or deserted cove.

But the compromise is still the most acceptable, because only in that way nothing is missed. It’s a shame not to take a chance. So: during day light, enjoy the deserted cove, and at sunset, sink into

Elizabeta & Mario Garbe

the romantic atmosphere of some small town that Dalmatia is well known for.

There is nothing more true that there is nothing more sublime as the peace and quiet of the deserted cove and even if you so addicted to such a place, come evening you can still sail to some small quiet Dalmatian town, take a walk and dinner somewhere, and go back to sleep into nearby cove. It is also true that when the sun sets it’s nice to have dinner on board in the untouched nature, but then?

In the darkness surrounding you, you’ve got nothing to do. Although in this time and age that we are technically advanced in communication with mobile phones, emails, etc... it is also good to remember that we have valid and rapid means of transportation with boat tenders or inflatable. But what can beat stepping into your own boat after spending the evening in some nice local tavern and tasting good Dalmatian food.

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Stari Grad on the island of Hvar

Dalmatia!

Almost everything that a wild bay can offer you, can be offered by the local town. For when taverns are closed, you can always remain on board in company, singing , or look for some privacy with your husband, wife, boyfriend – retiring under the bow. In the wild bay one can feel a little bit uncertain, and still someone feels it as a challenge. However, there is no more so deserted coves where one can feel that solitude challenge. It is easier to find the comfort of solitude in the crowd of the town than in the wild cove with several other boats from which you can hear every breath or sip of wine.

By day ‘the cove’, by night ‘the town’!

By day you’ve got to remember where you will return to sleep, if the town boils at the midnight and you want to get back into intimacy with subtle crickets.

If you, at the moment of awaking, have listened the weather broadcast, you’ll be able to easily assess the risk of these more than romantic naval night maneuvers. It is a must... to sail in and anchor, by day and by night.

It is not easy to resist not to anchor.

Well, it’s hard to resist, when the summer is almost naked, when it’s stripped and dressed, it’s difficult to choose the town or the wild cove where to anchor.

To anchor or not to anchor, that is the question. However, it’s the most beautiful to complete the day in some of our beautiful little towns, with the full immersion into the Dalmatian soul.

For sure She will insist to sail into the town as soon as, about noon, the wind rises from the west and goes towards the bottom of most hidden bays only to die on its pebble beaches. It’s better to cord safely somewhere to the coast, She would say. And He would like to fish still, or to turn the boat the upwind, although the mistral could be strong for a passionate sailor as well as for the hopeful fisherman.

Remember, though, that it’s most beautiful to fish early in the morning or in the moments when the day and the night are touching each other. The only more beautiful thing is to, at five in the

morning, go to buy fresh loaves, make a coffee and in all tranquillity sail alone to the first destination, while She is still sleeping under the bow. In the morning there is nice smooth sea, the intact sea surface, that almost one should not sail, not to disturb the harmonius royal rule of the nature that is still reluctant to awake, probably tired also of us.

You’ve got to sail in, you’ve got to taste the nice recipes, typical dishes, to watch nice old houses behind the shutters, a deep shade of taverns, shops from which spring out the old customs, souvenirs, pictures... And one should have a little fun, feel the atmosphere, shoot some nice photos. Listen to the songs softly coming from under the vaults, from the street corners, from the gates of the houses, taste and feel the humors, smells and local customs.

And for all that you’ve got to sail in.

You should cord to the waterfront with name, to the stone with its own passport, certificate and matricula. Then you could say that you are, here in the heart of Dalmatia on the link, at the address of Central Dalmatia, in the one of 51 ports of Split-Dalmatia County&Authority.

Kaštel Gomilica

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THINGS VIS

KUT

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TO REMEMBER! * The archaeological excavations of ancient Issa at the Vis port: the founding of Issa by the Syracuse invader Dionisius in 397 B. C. * The Archaeological Museum in Vis * The Museum of fishing and fishery in Komiža * The biggest Adriatic sea battle, the battle for Vis was fought between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian Navy on July 20 1886 * “Ranko Marinković”, the best Croatian amateur theatre in Vis * “The summer in Vis”,

* The island’s all-male klapa “Liket” * Gajeta falkuša, a traditional small and very fast fishing boat with sails and pointy stern and bow, typical of the Vis area; the course in sailing on falkuša * The caves of Vis: Blue Cave on Biševo, Green Cave on Ravnik, Queen Teuta’s Cave near the Oključna cove, Tito’s Cave (Borovik, Sv. Duh, Hum) * The underground reminders of military history on Vis: the tunnels and hallways from the times of the Yugoslav Army, the

underground military hospital, the military base and the hideout of Josip Broz Tito, the leader of Yugoslav partisans in World War II * Big game fishing in Komiža * Rent-a-bike/scooter/car/boat/kayak * Cricket club „Sir William Hoste“ * Scuba-diving clubs with long tradition, exciting underwater sights of ships sunk in different periods in history * The Vis wines, from bugava (or vugava) to plavac (Milan Senjanović, Podstražje, tel.

385(0)913391212

RUKAVA C

KOMIŽA

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Darko Mladineo, the grill expert

A MASTER OF HOSPITALITY, MADE BY THE NATURE AND FOR THE NATURE

Lepo povabljeni, najedel se boš

(Slovenian: “We kindly invite you to visit, you won’t leave hungry”)

“Darko” is the place to go if you want to enjoy goat meat barbecue. The name of the owner is Darko Mladineo, but it’s more important to know the instructions how to get there: when you leave Komiža, you do not take the left turn to Vis but right to the southern side of the island, then pass Ravno, Podhumlje and Podšpilje, then turn left up a steep hill towards Žena Glava, and in order to be as thirsty and as hungry as possible when you get to Darko, you can even take a left turn towards Tito’s cave.

First you go over Borovik and then further to the highest peak of Vis, Hum (587 m) and Sv. Duh (Holy Ghost) (563 m) from where Komiža appears to be right there on the palm of your hand. You’re going to have some walking to do in order to be able to accept everything that Darko has to offer. You’ll also get thirsty. Because the place is actually called Žedna Glava (Thirsty Head) and not Žena Glava (Woman’s Head). It couldn’t have been anything else this far from the sea.

– I’m thirsty – explains to us in the Vis dialect Mr Darko. – The old people, when they would go from Vis or Komiža, used to say Thirsty Head (thirsty hill). But those in power who were supposed to put up those boards with names of places obviously had bad hearing... But never mind about that, I’ve got some marinated anchovies, some fried girice (a type of very small fish), if you like...

– And? – ...and some grilled goat meat – Darko says after pausing meaningfully. There’s not a chance in the world that at Darko’s you’re going to eat “some” and drink “some” and sing “some”... Darko will surely drag you not into “some” story but into a great story. In our case, our story went all the way to Arizona.

He tells us that they have only yesterday been at his place. They came from Arizona by boat, following their ancestors’ footsteps from Slovenia.

– But they needed me to guide them through Slovenia’s topography, they don’t seem to remember much. Vis has excellent

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relations with the Republic of Slovenia. And Slovenians simply love Vis. So many of my guests are from Slovenia that to me it seems as if I myself have travelled all over Slovenia.

These Slovenians from Arizona who can hardly remember how and why they have any connection with Slovenia are, in fact, prison guards in Arizona. There were ten of them, together with friends. Their kids tagged along as well. They ate everything.

And with fingers, just like you’re supposed to eat lamb or goat meat...

– They told me they were going to put me on Facebook. I don’t have the Internet here, my only connection to the outer world is my donkey, but my friends will show me.

Victoria Mather once wrote that food is great here at my place. They didn’t even tell me they were reporters, they just came, ate, wrote the article and sent it to me.

Darko can speak Slovenian, too, because there’s nothing you don’t learn when you are as hospitable as he is. Even the tourist brochures advertise him as the tavern owner who speaks Slovenian.

The friendliness of Darko Mladineo and his wife Mirjana is the only Facebook they need. They’re friends with everybody,

A rural household, Žena Glava

everyone can recommend them, and Darko is truly a great friend: – Go and check my donkeys. If we’re going to talk about the hospitality and restaurant business on Vis, then surely Andro Slavić is one of the biggest, he’s been in the business for so long... And, amazingly enough, our donkeys tied us even tighter together. He’s got a female donkey so he brought her over to my place. Because I have a male one. They mated, that’s for sure.

– So the two of you are now like family, in-laws?!

– Exactly! His donkey has got young ones now. Her name is Geraldina.

Darko’s female donkey is Bera who is 35 and her daughter Bepa is only five years old. Bera is black and Bepina is white. Donkeys live up to 50 years of age. Darko has also gotten a certificate for his donkeys.

– So what does the certificate say? Riding pony, protected species.

A Croatian newspaper Večernji list claims that from Savudria to Prevlaka there’s no better place to eat than on the island of Vis. The Daily Telegraph places Darko’s tavern among the seven most romantic destinations in the world, together with Spain, Bangkok, Malta, Capri...

BUDIKOVCI: Andro Slavić, the Master of Food and Words

Bera and Bepina

Written by:Mario Garber

MASTERS VIS-À-VIS

Zelena špilja (Green cave)

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ndro Slavić is a well-known figure since over a decade ago when he was the owner of the famous restaurant “As” right in the centre of the Vis port. A big sign on the front door said: Do not enter unless you are wealthier than the owner!

At Andro’s restaurant the most original food seasoning have always been his sassy, but at the same time catchy sayings.

Asked once why he didn’t go to a funeral he was supposed to go to, he replied: “Well there’s no point going to his funeral when he won’t come to mine.”

Andro Slavić moved to Budikovci where he spends solitary winters, apart from occasional games of cards with his friends.

He goes fishing for the pleasure of it. He set his own world record during the Vis regatta which is like a last ray of summer in October after the tourist season has ended. So I popped in to see him at his place, and found him sitting with noone else there, finishing off his meal with great pleasure and asking me: “This place is closed, how ‘bout me frying a couple of eggs with prosciutto and onions for you as well?”

Vis brimming with sailboats and yachtsmen for two days, and his place is closed? The yacht crews are so deadbeat that they are just waiting to demolish his locale.

But Andro didn’t feel like opening the place for only a couple of days. Here’s what he told me: “I asked the local restaurant owners to each give me a hundred kunas so that I wouldn’t open my restaurant because I know they’re afraid of the competition.

And I’ve earned more money this way, without having to work!”

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VIS IN A DISH KUT

A few steps away “Bako” and “Barba” represent a fierce competition when it comes to rich choice of foods. The Komiža waterfront offers various pizzerias, spaghetterias and restaurants, among others the seafood restaurant “Koluna”.

If you’re hesitant about where to eat, apart from the hotel “Tamaris”, in Vis there’s a row of pizzerias like “Dioniz”, or “Dudo” where you can get everything you wish, and at the very end of the waterfront, before you turn to the part called Kut, your nose will lead the way to “Kantun”. However, the taverns with remarkable interior and food choice are there at the Kut, with the genuine Mediterranean feel, the traditional peasants’ houses and noblemen’s mansions. The taverns “Val”, “Težok”, “Vatrica”... not an easy choice to make.

But, let’s go to the hills of Vis! In the island’s inland the villages and rural households offer thick shade below the vines and fig trees, with barbecue, lamb and goat specialties... you name it.

“POJODA” AND “KALIOPA”

FROM LOBSTER TO LAMB

Everyone in the restaurant business admits that “Pojoda” deserves its status as the fourth best restaurant in Dalmatia. Walking from the Port to Kut and “Pojoda”, you will surely visit a series of taverns and pizzerias, so don’t hold back when the unique atmosphere of “Villa Kaliopa” and its 16th-century garden sucks you in. In Pečarević family’s “botanical garden” you haven’t got a care in the world, and you wouldn’t mind the least bit if they served nothing but a plain sandwich.

LEFT AND RIGHT “BEJBI” In the Vis port there are two famous cafes with the same name, one “Bejbi” on the west side near the ferry pier, the second at Kut, then there’s “Lambik” and many others which make the night life exciting. Nobody seems to mind the loud music, summer is the time to loosen up. Even the bars radiate this specific Vis charm. There you have it, the Vis Maior.

BOŽANIĆ If you happen to crash uninvited to one of the private feasts at Josip Božanić’s spacious patio in Komiža, you will delight in the host’s mastery of “cooking”: books, notes on history, tradition, fishermen...

SENKO The same will happen if you taste the poet Senko Karuza’s wines at his Komiža home right next to the sea. And wait till you get to the Mala Travna inlet at the southern coast of the island! He will serve you one of his specialties – a verse – and your thirst will be quenched.

DREAM TAVERNS There are as much as three dream taverns in Komiža. The world unique “Jastožera” lies on wooden and stone piers above the sea.

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TO THE HILLS FOR A BARBECUE

In 2008 an American magazine voted the Sviličić family’s “Pol murvu”, placed in a 500 years old building in Podšpilje, the best grill restaurant in the world. Lately, however, Podšpilje is becoming famous thanks to Fanita and Tonči Sviličić and culinary specialties prepared with great care and offered in their tavern “Maxo”: lobsters, lamb, venison with gnocchi, all sorts of liqueurs, chosen wines...

ŽENA GLAVA Rural households advertise thier products as “natural and homemade”. The American newspapers glorify Darko Mladineo’s goat meat in Žena Glava. In Podselje, right above Vis on the way to Milna, you are bound to spend more time than planned in the tavern “Golub” owned by Ivica Ivanišević, while in

Podstražje the same will happen with Miroslav Vojković’s tavern “Ferol”.

“DALMATINO” There’s simply no end to this – in Rukavac, at the southeastern part of the island Vis, “Dalmatino” will definitely pull you in. Unless Sandro Karuza and his taxi-boat take you to Stiniva, then to Green cave, and, when you’re well hungry, to Budikovci and the one-of-akind Andro Slavić, where both good food and bacchanalian spirituality await for you.

KOMIŽA

VIS IN A BOTTLE “Viška Sabatina” (sabato is Saturday in Italian, a language which strongly influenced the local dialect) is the name of a voluntary, nonpolitical, non-profit-making civil association of the inhabitants of Podšpilje.

Their motto is Working for villages.

The association draws attention and deals with the problems faced in the island’s rural parts.

The members organize church holiday festivities, concerts, poetry readings.

Under the umbrella of this association an allmale klapa “Liket” has been formed.

The association also promotes education of their members and the autochtonous Vis

wines branding project. The following of EU regulations and an international cooperation is also under way.

Even the ancient Greek chronicler Agatharchides noted way back in the year 340 B. C. the exquisiteness of the wines of Issa (ancient name for the island of Vis).

Some of the renowned winemakers, members of the association: Radica – Vis, Ivčević – Komiža, Sviličić – Podšpilje, PZ Komiža, PZ Vis, Podšpilje PZ, Zorotović – Vis, Solvetovo Maxo – Podšpilje, Roki’s Plisko Polje, Lipanović – Vis, Šešula – Vis, Senjanović – Podstražje, Radan.

Cricket, Vanja Marinković

KUT

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NAUTIKA ANTIKA Stari Grad desƟned for sailors’ paradise

First Sailing before Christ By editorial team of Port News

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tari Grad, Old Town (the oldest in Croatia) it is a town on its own. Its inhabitants call it Paiz and people from Paiz are secretive, characterized by artistic inclination, the inevitable friend of the poetic soul in words, pictures or music wire.

Therefore, attention must be paid to the thought of Tourist Board director of that town Danijela Vlahović (39) that the self-effacing strategy still fiercely pushes through the web site and other publications: I’m convinced that our proverbial, traditional unobtrusiveness one day will become the unrivaled advantages. Because we are champions at it.

Under her guidance, Stari Grad is the story of the ancient Pharos:

Kabal Cape At the very entrance to the Stari Grad Bay, four nautic miles long and one of the safest natural harbors on the Adriatic, there is the Kabal Cape. It is an eighty meter high rock, a part of the Kabal peninsula, whose form resembles the fingers of a hand. You will have the feeling of sailing into some kind of fjord with the Tiha Bay (Qiet Bay) on your left and Paiz in the depth of the bay that appears slowly, slowly…

Jelsa

The story of Pharos, on one of the ten most beautiful islands in the world, Hvar, began back in 384 BC when the ancient Greeks from the island of Paros sailed into Stari Grad Bay and founded the town. The past, present and the future of this town has also been recognized by UNESCO, who has selected Stari Grad Plain as part of its list of protected world cultural heritage sites.

The great Croatian Renaissance poet, patrician and philosopher Petar Hektorović, in the spirit of Stari Grad, built a monumental castle throughout his life and it was important to him in the same measure as his literary work “Fishing and Fishermen’s Talk”. It is Tvrdalj that stands close to the shore, with a large square in front of it.

The stories of

Little Things O Thus once washerwomen washing clothes in a stream in the center

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nly in the winter you can meet a man who will open your eyes. During the summer months all over the island everyone is in a crazy business. We were lucky that we got Božidar Gamulin for interlocutor in Jelsa. He saw us rattling something around the town and then show us details that we would never have occurred to photograph.

- It is a pity that no one appreciates our history and traditions other than a foreigner who can not wait to hear the story. We’re trying to sell him anything and everything on tons, and an interesting story about the

Božidar Gamulin with his boat for tourists

Stari Grad WaiƟng for a ship “By Damir”, the cult meeƟnghouse

News from the Plate Y

ou have to get used to find the island gains in its handicaps. For example, there are no daily newspapers until the ship arrives, so gets out the latest news with the first morning coffee in the cult meetinghouse. Since ancient times, it was the typical cellar (in the picture) on the first square when you get to Stari Grad, in the bottom of the port. People played here cards and chess, each day is known what you get for snack. And today is the old tav-

ern owner, after many others, Damir Čavić, who is known as a master of meals, drinks and entertainment at least 20-odd years.

Check the picture, there is a master of theater Tahir Mujčić, master of voice Dinko Lupi, has just escaped from the picture the famous Count of Dubovica Ivo Kasandrić and every moment will come winemaker Andro Tomić... In front of the tavern there are few tables so you can sunbathe while drinking beer in the company of a young poet and musician John who has long been a Damir’s waiter.

Božidar Gamulin

that Make Life Mark in the stone to see the berth at night

true values of our culture and history, we do not offer. However, the stories are on every corner, in every detail. These are those little things that make life a stranger during a brief stay with us, as if in a dream.

The port of Jelsa, its total area and the length of the Riva range, it is one of the longest made of stone... Quays are built in separate slopes, boardwalk at special angles and curves because it was of yore accurately calculated by someone how to tame the great sea and how to amortize each wave, break it down and avoid damage.

In ports is increasingly difficult to find stairs. And how to get out if you fall into the sea?

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WHEN THE SAINTS GO MARCHING IN 16

All Saints in towns and cities of Split-Dalmatia County are generally celebrated as the Day of the majority, the patron saint, so this is an exceptional opportunity for the local people to express themselves in organizing festivities, festivals and other celebrations

HVAR, MAY 10th SAINT PROSPER Inevitable Hvar. Superlative in many ways, starting with the oldest public theater in Europe to the highest number of sunshine hours, an average of 2726 a year (probably you will not come just those rare cloudy days!). Hvar has two patron saints: St. Stephen, which rises into the sky from the largest cathedral square of all our small towns on the coast, and the other – St. Prosper.

Hvar is happy to incense to his patron.

Let him take care of us! Let us live with our sea and sun! Let us have our guests!

Make a quick trip to Hvar, quickly, before the boats occupy the entire port! You’ve better take your place immediately.

Krknjaši on the island of Veli Drvenik

BAŠKA VODA, MAY 30th FEAST OF SUMMER Municipal feast of Baška Voda, Day of the majority, at the end of May, announces end of winter dormancy and summer overture into joy. Well, in Baška Voda there is extremely jovial atmosphere.

As in the whole littoral. Pebbles to the infinity. White ones.Then green pines and blue sea. And the sea murmurs as it retracts and pulls. Drink the sea in Baška Voda! It is clean, nothing will happen to you.

Omiš

OMIŠ, MAY 16th SAINT JOHN OF NEPOMUK The day of the majority, 16 May, is also the patron feast of Omiš St. John Nepomuk.

The townpeople, steeped in the old pirate celebrity and known as the people who refused to sell their town to Hollywood filmakers (they wanted Omiš in order to have a wild river canyon and its estuary, long sea beaches and sure cliff of Omiška Dinara, landscape worthy of Apache), certainly lay on discretion and know how to appreciate the virtue of keeping secrets. The Saint Nepomuk – for those who don’t know – had that virtue: he took his secret to the grave.

As confessor to the queen, he didn’t want and wasn’t allowed to divulge her secret to the king. So the king made him burn, tie to a wheel and throw from Charles Bridge in Prague, into the Vltava River. Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

If you intend to go to Omiš, don’t worry! The townspeople for a long time now, don’t charge a fee for the peacefull navigation, and piracy serves them just as romantic features from the past.They turned to the guitar and singing groups. There is no song as you could listen to in Omiš!

SEGET DONI, JUNE 13th St. ANTHONY OF PADUA

The people from Trogir were smart. They have lived confortably. If they hand’t built seven castles east of the city an two on the west, one of which is present Seget Donji, there would have been fewer settlements, towns and lovely villages on the coast.

Seget was founded in the 1564 by James Rotondo, the scribe of Trogir city treasury, who was allowed to raise the castle where to shelter, in case of war, together with his peasants.

For their patron they chose strongly favored saint in Dalmatia – St. Anthony of Padua. So their celebration day is on the 13th of June. Saint Anthony is a saint who everyone can take as his: he is protector of children, those seeking spouse, the preachers, the poor, expectant mothers, travelers, fishermen, sailors, old people, harvests, horses, lost items, mail, shipwreck, starvation...

POVLJA, JUNE 24th CHARTER, LANGUAGE MONUMENT

by Ana Gaspar Hvar

A long time ago, Povlja on the island of Brač was a safe port for the Roman galleys, so there is no doubt that you will be accepted in its warmth for a peaceful and relaxed sleep. Only a few houses, but well known in the world.

Among other things, the so-called The Charter of Povlja – that is one of the oldest linguistic monuments in the world.

It’s Benedictine monastery St. John the Baptist’s document, from the year 1184.

St John the Baptist is the patron of Povlja and the 24th of June is the village Day. On the quay there is modern sculpture of St John, the work of naive artist, carved in white marble. To welcome the visitors, no matter whence they came from!

SUPETAR, JUNE 29th PETER, PAUL AND VICTOR Island capital Supetar celebrates 29th of June, the day of St. Peter (and Paul) traditionally garnished with folk festivals. Supetar is entirely dedicated to St. Peter, as the name suggests. Supetar has got also another patron St. Victor, celebrated on the 2nd of May. There are so many Peters in Supetar.

As soon as you go for a walk through the town, you’ll come across Holy Mother Teresa and Saint Victor, the work of sculptor Petar Jakšić. We should advise to visit the church with its baroque organ from 1737, the work of another Peter – Petar Nakić.

DRVENIK VELI AND MALI REFUGE FOR SPLIT PEOPLE The only drawback of the beautiful island oasis Drvenik Veli – not to mention the even more wilderness, in the positive sense, of Mali – is in proximity to a big city of Split. So as you managed to tie the buoy, a free one in the low season, and full of salt and wind happily leap on the dock... the first thing you see is a city famous face. And you have just escaped! Well, let it be! The island is small, but the possibilities are immense.

There is also wilderness, if you prefer. Drvenik Veli celebrated its patron. Krknjaši, too. In the shallow water there is a big quantity of grey and red mullets.

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PORT NEWS INFO HEARTS OF CENTRAL DALMATIA

Lenght of the pier: GPS FOR THE ISLAND’S TAVERNS

COAST Trogir 380 m Omiš 234 m Makarska 166 m Kaštel Stari 87 m

COAST GAS STATION Maslinova, Brač

BRAČ: Supetar 295 m Bol 155 m Milna 100 m Postira 295 m Pučišća 120 m

Trogir, 021 885-458 Rogač, Šolta 021 654-180 Kaštel Gomilica, 091 252-5285 Split, 021 399-396 Vis, 021 711-176 Milna, Brač, 021 636-340 Sumartin, Brač 021 622-250 Hvar, 021 741-060 Bol, Brač, 021 635-119 Vrboska, 021 774-220 Makarska, 021 612-660

VIS, Budikovci Andro Slavić, 091 754-4069 VIS, Žena Glava Darko Mladineo, 091 523-9184 VIS, Mala Travna Senko Karuza, 099 352-5803 VIS, Komiža Katarina Spajić, 098 360-469

Maslinica, Šolta

HVAR Hvar 235 m Stari Grad 486 m Jelsa 185 m Vrboska 130 m Sućuraj 663 m

Dol, Brač

HVAR, Hvar Jurica Tomičić, 098 312-161 HVAR, Stari Grad Damir Čavić, 091 573-6376 HVAR, Stari Grad Pizzeria Marko, 021 765-889 HVAR, Pakleni otoci Tonči Matijević, 098 727-186 Bol, Brač

GAS FILLING Trogir, 021 885-410 Kaštel Novi, 021 238-300 Kaštel Sućurac, 021 204-570, 021 204-555 Baška Voda, 091 509-0836 Supetar, Brač, 021 630-548

Pitve, Hvar

VIS Vis 400 m Komiža 552 m

Lovrečina, Brač

ŠOLTA Maslinica 20 m Rogač 100 m Nečujam 63 m

DRVENIK VELI 66 m

DRVENIK MALI 111 m

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BRAČ, Dol Tonči Matulić, 091 516-6532 BRAČ, Gornji Humac Konoba Tomić, 091 225-1199 BRAČ, Murvica Konoba Marija, 091 195 8754 ŠOLTA, Rogač Damir Bilankov 091 549-4986

Wine island

In Hvar Veritas Sail around the island in a glass of quality red wine and many other varietals of exceptional climate, tradition and culture

Written by Mario Garber

T

ravel is a curiosity and thirst for knowledge. That’s why you’ve sailed around the island of Hvar. It’s an adventure you’ll never forget. So imagine, you come home and they ask you about the Hvar wines. What to do? You must thoroughly sail around the island in this sense too.

Because get to know Hvar without its wines and vineyards on the slopes steeply rolling towards the sea, bathed in sunlight and salt, it’s really the same as Hvar you have not even tasted. You did not even peek into the soul of the island if you forget and leave the bottle clogged.

Premium winemakers are waiting for you in the marina, with moorings in hand, concerned about your knowledge... and also for your health. They are famous winery names Plenković, Plančić, Tomić, Duboković...

On the World Day of Wine, three years ago, it is founded the Association of Hvar Winemakers and was elected the president master of science Andro Tomić from Jelsa, in leadership with Marija Gabelić from Vrboska

and Ivana Krstulović Carić from Svirče. There have opened the door for the Hvar as a wine island. And that is the culture of the island, a series of events, wine presentations, advertising and entertainment happenings. The tradition is an old one. More than a hundred years ago Hvar even had 5700 acres of vineyards, and now it’s moving from the begin-

ning and grows starting from just 300 acres.

Recently released publication titled “Visiting Premium Croatian Winemakers by Yacht” through which you can visit the locations that gave birth to finest Dalmatian wines and bring home the taste of thousand years old vineyards in the interpretation of the top winemakers.

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Andro Tomić By editorial team of Port News

Andro entries in the promotion of the wine drinking on aphoristic way. He will tell you not to drink in liters but in hours

How to reach Andro Tomiđ

GPS to winery Bastijana Walking distance from port and center of Jelsa is 10 – 15 minutes. Maximum anchoring depth is 3,5 meters, maximum vessel length 35 m and maximum number of berths 22 boats.

GPS coordinates: 43°9’40’’, 16°42’3’’.

Working hours: 7:00 – 19:00 (off the working hours appointment is required).

Drink in Hours, The bottle of Tomić’s wine sublimed history and culture of the island, its ancestors, the wine knowledge and a sense of overall island heritage. He is so dedicated that in his wine cellar above Jelsa you enter as in the temple with opulently corresponding columns

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T

he bottle of Tomić’s wine sublimed history and culture of the island, its ancestors, the wine knowledge and a sense of overall island heritage. He is so dedicated that in his wine cellar above Jelsa you enter as in the temple with opulently corresponding columns. Andro entries in the promotion of the wine drinking on aphoristic way. He will tell you not to drink in liters but in hours.

Andro says: The finest Dalmatian wine producers and their wine cellars are laying just under your bow. We invite you to visit us and make your summer cruise experience memorable and special by tasting top quality wines in the authentic atmosphere of the vineries.

Andro Tomić has dedicated his life to wine. After twenty years of professional training at different faculties and institutions of France, he decided to come back to his island and continue 150 years old family tradition of winemaking. In front of the entrance to the temple, he will set an old vine, with the inscription: This vine for 150 years was giving to my family food and shade.

His legendary wines like „1991“ have established Plavac as wine meritorious of world’s famous wine sorts and served as stepping stone to Hvar viticulture. Andro also founded company called Bastijana with main objective premium winemaking as well as promotion of the culture of wine.

The winery Bastijana organizes wine tasting in triclinium, a room decorated according to the old Roman dining rooms. Before tasting the wine guests can enjoy sightseeing the winery and listening to the story of the winery history and viticulture as well as viticulture of Hvar. Every wine sort is paired with appropriate snacks in order to instruct the guests of harmony between food and wine.

From Beleca to Plavac Wine selection at Andro’s Bastijana: Beleca, quality white wine (bogdanuša + pošip) Sv. Klement, white table wine (pošip) Plavac, quality red wine (plavac mali, plavac veliki, drnekuša) Sv. Klement, red table wine (cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc) Plavac mali barrique, premium red wine (plavac mali) Caplar, premium red wine (plavac mali + cabernet sauvignon) Hectorovich, premium dessert wine (bogdanuša, maraština, prč).

Not in Liters!

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Y

ou have sailed from the west to Central Dalmatia, in the sea of Split-Dalmatia County. And, of course that instantly opened your appetite. There are so many dishes you have to taste! I assure you, there are, in all those restaurants, my colleagues and I respect them. As well as I respect their meals! Let’s start! You have passed Vinišće and both islands of Drvenik. On the east coast of Veli Drvenik there are Krknjaši.

KRKNJAŠI Nobody knows how many years has been already opened the tavern you find there, its originally name was The Fisherman, but everyone call it The Communist. This is a real spectacle, far away from the communists – you’ll meet there my friends Dragica and Ivica Špika. He is, in my opinion, the greatest fisherman on the Adriatic coast. Through his hands every year pass not less than fifteen tons of prime fish. You can be sure that you have in plate the fish caught the same day.

TROGIR At one point you must get bored of sailing.

So sail in Trogir and go to tavern Barba out of town to the west side. In my opinion this is

the best restaurant along the Adriatic coast for you’ll eat there a first class selection of shells, hundred species of shells... all freshly acquired. And in the back yard they coltivate peppers, tomatoes, lettuce of all kinds. Mirjana and Drago Karaman are waiting for you.

ŠOLTA Tomorrow morning at sea again! It’s time to visit the island of Šolta. Nečujam and the restaurant Punta. On the terrace with Beka and Neno Baumgartner once we roasted piglet on a spit, but completely separated from the bones that it could be cut into slices. In it we boarded a couple of pork fillets. Italians call it „porchetta“. You must spice it with herbs and lots of pepper. It was delicious.

BRAČ After all this, for a few days you might manage to go on the island of Brač. It is an island on the other side of Split Doors. When you recover of overeating on Šolta, maybe you can short the stock swimming. In the capital of the neighboring island of Brač, in Supetar, the best thing to do is to stop at Paluta’s on the waterfront. If you want, Paluta himself will take you on his farm west of Supetar,

where you will taste the vitalac, lamb prepared in a unique way.

PAKLENI ISLANDS Whence you came, you will always stop in Hvar. Most often, once you take the fuel in Milna on Brač, you turn towards the nearest town of the island of Hvar or its bays. If you still get to the south side of Hvar, where everything happens, then you should not miss – on the north side of Pakleni Islands – the tavern of Tonči Matijević. His coop for lobsters is always full and he will offer you fish stew, artichokes and zucchini strudel, the specialty of his Austrian wife.

HVAR If you are lucky, you will find a berth in the town of Hvar. Then go right to Gariful where you can choose between tuna of 300 pounds and sars, dentexes, squids. There I’ve eaten the best meat in my life, that is from Hvar to the hills on Vidikovac (Mount Lookout). The owner of the tavern is Jozo Šuša and he will give you to taste a specially selected meats and roasted. So first, goat must be barren and younger than two years, seasoned with rosemary and ling...

Stončica on Vis

DALMATIA ON THE PLATE

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ama K i in lb A n a r

by Go

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Hvar

Vis Makarska and Biokovo Mountain in the background

A fisherman in Makarska

GORAN ALBINI KAMANJO, CULINARY EXPERT WHO HAS COOKED FOR PRESIDENTS AND PRIME MINISTERS OF CROATIA

VIS

LANTERNA

On the island of Vis you will be confused by the choice: Vis or Komiža, meat or fish, lamb or goat. And if you were tired of crowd and crush, you could go to the islets Budikovci, where there is the Green Cave. The owner of the tavern is Andro Slavić, my friend. He is the craziest and the best chief in the world.

You could order any dish, whatever crosses your mind. You will eat something good and imaginative too.

In Vis, on the side called Kut, you must visit Luca in the tavern Val. You will enjoy in a fresh taste of every dish. And in the hills above Vis stop at Roki’s. You will not regret it. Oh, I almost forgot. Many years ago, Ićo Bulić, the lanternist at Stončica, at the promontory of the island, that lanternist who organizes exhibitions of art from the alluvions from the sea – he was my waiter at the tavern Pharos in Split, near tennis courts where Goran Ivanišević started to play...

POET Stop in a cove of your dreams called Mala Travna. There are the Karuza. It may be the legendary fisherman Kalambera. And it can be the famous poet, winemaker and chef, all in one – Senko Karuza. What he needs are two limpets and he will make the firework of that and when you taste his wines, then you become a prisoner of his basement.

And finally, if you ask me what is the best to eat in the summer, I would recommend you pasta-fagioli (bean paste).

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Sensations of Central Dalmatia For this We Have no Word Uvala Pokrivenik, Hvar

Stomorska, Šolta

Jelsa zimi

WELCOME, EUROPE! Split

Hvar, Križna luka

Planina Biokovo, pozadina Makarske

Makarska

I

t’s coming the big race, Croatia and the Adriatic will experience first summer in the European Union. It will be a very strong motive for a large duplex welcome, and those who sail here as guests, and those who accept them with hospitality throwing them – the rope.

Every summer one place becomes a hit of the season, and the first Euro-summer everyone will want such a success. Makarska, one of the most beautiful Adriatic Rivieras, after so many decades has got a breakwater to protect the harbor exposed to wild wind from the mountain Biokovo. With all sup-

porting facilities, the pier will be ready with 110 new berths in 2014th.

It is a real revolution for the tourist migration as Makarska will be connected via Biokovo tunnel with modern highway from Zagreb to Dubrovnik. And also the closest islands of Brač and Hvar on its eastern capes will establish a new and more secure connection by sea because the ship’s connection to Sućuraj on Hvar and Sumartin on Brač from Drvenik near Makarska become more interesting and safer. Europe will, therefore, splash islands of Central Dalmatia from all sides of Trogir, Split, Omiš and Makarska.

Stari Grad, Hvar

Makarska, hotel Osejava