Port news no.7

AUGUST 2013

NO. 7

AN ISLAND THAT NEVER SLEEPS

JUMP TO THE STARS!

In the beginning it was a port

OLD TOWN, NEW PORT

Written by: Domagoj Maroević, Chief of Port Authority of the County of Split and Dalmatia

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eing a skipper isn’t easy. By that I mean that it’s not easy being the helmsman of a boat, raft, speedboat, sailboat or a fishing boat. Or a small sailboat for that matter, or even a ferryboat. There’s a lot of beauty to consume while sailing, and when your aware of it all the time, it’s overwhelming, as you get to showcase all those sights to our guests, tourists, sailors and sea dogs, divers and yachtsmen, fishermen and aficionados of the mysteries of the Adriatic.

We’re talking about such layered and versatile natural wonders that every tour guide and host has the manage the highest level of responsibility. Even if you’re not a skipper, even if you’re just a guest, you get the urge to share your experience and awe of witnessing the magic that is the Blue Cave, Green Cave, Zlatni rat and Bol, Paklenjaci Islands, Šćedro, Hvar and its culture, Stari

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Grad, Jelsa, all the wonders of Šolta, Drvenik, the history of Split, Trogir, Omiš and the beaches of the Makarska Riviera.

While on route, you always get curious as you’re standing at the helm, your mind starts filling with countless questions about where will you actually go once you’ve docked your vessel, once you’ve thrown your anchor, reached your bollard, dock or mooring; once you step onto our ancient stone promenades and set off to another, true adventure, cruising tiny and narrow town streets that present you with a wide view of history and culture.

We humbly inform you that the Port Authority of the County of Split and Dalmatia and its experienced staff takes care of fifty one ports in the area, ensuring you feel at home, like you’re in that same marina you came from. We make sure nobody is missing a dock, that everything is handled as

quickly as possible, that there’s always a raft with our experts nearby, and we make sure you utilize every moment spent in this exquisite area.

This is why you’ll see construction work every autumn, winter and spring, something is always being built. Those who had previously visited Stari Grad might not recognize it today, because there was a lot of development, from the main port to new docks, making sure boats no longer have to be squeezed inside the town’s channel, there’s room for everyone. We have similar plans for Jelsa and Hvar, while Bol remains one of our most demanding projects, as its coastline is too narrow and hard to reach.

Makarska has been so improved that it now features a protected port with a large pier, one which will give it a completely new image by next year.

FIFTY ONE CHALLENGES OF CENTRAL DALMATIA On the west side of Šolta, right in front of Maslenica, you’ll see a whole flock of tiny islands, spread across the route from Veli Drvenik to Mali Drvenik. You simply couldn’t enjoy Central Dalmatia in its entirety by going on a single charter sailing trip – you’ll need endless summers for that. Once you get the know this area, you’ll want to discover it’s neighborhood: Korčula, Pelješac, Lastovo, Mljet, Dubrovnik, Šibenik, Zadar and Kornati Islands.

This is just about the same story you’ll hear from our skipper, who is in love with his home and will give you a tour of his home, one you’ll enjoy like a perfect dream, a tour that will leave you breathless as you become one with the sights and sounds of Dalmatia, which seems like a phantasy or a movie, except it’s actually real and unspoiled. For our magazine, which is dedicated to sailing enthusiasts as a ‘breviary of the sea’, Ruben Vujnović told his nautical story, from the perspective of a leading skipper of sailing agency ‘Croactive Holidays’.

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elcome to Central Dalmatia! Welcome to Split, Trogir, Omiš and Makarska!

Welcome to the islands of Brač, Vis, Šolta, Veli and Mali Drvenik, and Čiovo – which has been made into a peninsula thanks to the bridge that connects it to Trogir. That’s just scratching the surface, because this area has many more islands, cliffs and lighthouses spread across fifty one (51) ports which you can easily sail into.

In Central Dalmatia, you have islands such as Palagruža, which is located forty nautical miles outside of Italy, or thirty nautical miles outside of Split. With its own group of tiny islands, out there in the open sea, Palagruža is almost like a separate country. There are also islands like Mrduja, which is in the middle between Brač and Šolta, an area known as the Gates of Split.

Mrduja is basically a cliff which has been fought over by the people of Brač and Šolta for generations, there is even a traditional game of pulling the ropes between teams of the two islands – each pulling Mrduja to their own side, and getting stronger with each pull.

A true sailing enthusiast will have to check out the so-called ‘Wild Islands’ between Hvar and Korčula: Šćedro, Paklenjaci, Biševo, which is southwest from Vis and features the amazing Blue Cave and the Saint Andrew mountain lodge, as well as Budihovci and the Green Cave on the eastern side of Vis.

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Belgijsko-njemački par dobio je elkciju škole jedrenja iz prve ruke skipera Rubena Vujnovića

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Skipper Ruben Vujnoviđ for Port News

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ou can experience anything on the open sea. That’s why the sea challenges you. And in the end, you admit to yourself, the sea inspires you. That’s why you get all sorts of ideas on the open sea. But, you must never forget that everything you’re doing is connected to that sea, because you’re just a drop in the sea yourself. And remember, the sea is a hundred times stronger than you. You’ll be as big as you’re ready to admit you are.

I didn’t make any of this up. This is what my elders had taught me. The sea has taught me as well. So, in order for you to become one with the sea, and sail it like it is supposed to be sailed, in order to swim, dive, hunt – in order to fully live with it – you have to relax a bit, have some fun.

I remember, I was taking an American to see the Green Cave of Vis, and as we were getting there, he had constantly kept asking me to explain what kind of a sight the Green Cave was, that it was a place he’ll remember his entire life and so I told him he doesn’t have to ask what it looks like all the time.

Shortly after, we became friends. We caught the ebb tide at Mali Ždrilac, and I managed to convince him he had to jump off the boat to make the boar lighter. Just imagine the sight of me yelling ‘NOW!’ and all of our passengers go jumping off the boat! Later on, he told me he was never going to forget that moment.

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SAIL OFF, SAIL OFF, SAIL OFF! Hvar Adventure is a highly successful nautical agency from Hvar which constantly offers fresh, different sailing trips; innovations on the tourism menu. They have an office in Split, Croactive holidays.

The company is lead by Veselka Huljić and Damir Pačić, while the Split office is managed by Sonja Koljanin and Kažimir Cukar. Ruben Vujnović and Mladen Perhat are their skippers. They offer a wide range of trips, island tours, romantic getaways into the sunset, trips to various beaches and islands around Split, and a selection of late afternoon tours, from 4 pm. until the sun goes down.

JUMP TO TH

THE SUNSET ANNIVERSARY This couple was celebrating their anniversary. A boy from Belgium and a girl from Germany. First off, everyone is surprised that the Belgian and the skipper share the same name; Ruben. Ruben Jennes and Julia Kaiser, they met on a vacation some years ago, and now they’re together in Dalmatia. They’ve been to Zadar, Dubrovnik, Hvar and Šibenik. Ruben took the couple on a romantic trip around Čiovo, where they went swimming near the island’s cliffs and enjoyed the sunset. Ruben the skipper taught Ruben the tourist how to sail, at least a little bit.

It was quite a story, because Ruben the Belgian froze up at the help, so much so that we enjoyed a good laugh, especially with the ever so nice Julia, who came to the conclusion: – Looks like he forgot about me...

After having a good laugh, we realized that Julia and Ruben simply must come back to Split next year, because that’s the only time Ruben manages to forget about her, even for a second.

And he just remembered her!

HE STARS!

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Sensations of Central Dalmatia For this We Have no Word

HVAR’S FACEBOOK PAGE In these other photos you’ll see all the faces you’ve accidentally met in the crowded heat: girls and guys selling boats, as well as the faces that are omitted from said photos, but you can imagine what they look like based on all the empty beer cans.

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IT’S RAINING CATS AND DOGS As the saying goes, ‘’It’s raining cats and gods’’, and the Croatian version is that ‘’It’s raining like a shower”. Which makes sense, when you consider the origin of this saying – England, and English weather. It’s wet weather. Almost like a flood. We get that too. Except, we get droughts. Time stops, much like a stance between opposed cats and dogs. It’s that eternal status quo of life, and you can feel it in the tiny streets of Central Dalmatia. Does this sensation ever sleep? Yes, from one heatwave to the next, in perpetual laziness.

Fotografije: Segor Garber

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MAKARSKA, A SEASONED TOURIST BRAND Experienced tourism worker Vedran Josipoviđ speaks

DON’T BE AFRAI

I point out to each of my guests that they ask for a room with a view of Biokovo, so they don’t all chose the usual thing – a seaside view. I’ve been in tourism since I was fourteen, started off as a baggage handler, and after forty years in business, in 1995 I opened a private tourist office, in the days when tourism was non-existent.

Interview: Mario Garber

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veryone on the Makarska Riviera knows Vedran Josipović. He has been an icon of tourism in Makarska for decades now. He started out as a kid, trying to earn an allowance by carrying baggage during the tourist season, and now he’s the owner of a famous and respected tourist agency, a private tourist board with its headquarters located at the center of the Riva in Makarska.

- That’s how my generation managed to get by: I would carry baggage in front of the agency and people would give me some

money as compensation... And I did all sorts of things, my parent’s didn’t even know about my jobs so I financed a great deal of my university studies by myself. But, those were different times. Back then, tourism in Makarska was so popular and progressive that my generation was able to find decent opportunities.

Looking back, Josipović is reminded of a time when the tourist destination of Makarska was as strong as Hvar..

- As far as quality and professionalism are concerned, we were even ahead of Hvar.

Makarska was a very popular brand. Today, we’re twenty years behind Hvar! We’re falling

behind in the same segments where we used to be in the lead – personnel and everything else. But, time waits for no one and new opportunities are always being made.

- For example, the new breakwater in Makarska; I’m sure it will attract many new tourists.

- As a destination, I’m sure we’re close to becoming a hit in the nautical tourism segment. Simply because we’ve been missing out in that area. You could even say sailors skip Makarska, as we haven’t been popular due to the heavy wind of Bura, which prevented the ferry boats from Sumartin to dock properly. There are also different

WITHOUT TOURISM

Vedran Josipović

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After spending forty years in tourism, it was time to become a business owner!

Josipović has worked all sorts of jobs, mostly with Italians and Germans, he was a receptionist, worked for Neckermann, for Dalmacijaturist, he was a bus tour guide and he learned four languages while working. As a tourism operator, he has traveled to Australia, New Zealand, Costa Rica, America, Europe... When the huge hotel company that employed him went under, Josipović was offered their tourist board segment, which he took over in 1995, a time when

ID D OF BIOKOVO!

REFUGEES opinions, as some experts say that nautical tourism is counter productive, because such tourist tend to have everything they need on their boats. However, I’m sure that the first thing on any guest’s mind is to be entertained in the evening, have some fun at the end of the day, in Makarska as much as any other wonderful Dalmatian town.

Makarska sees a lot of boat hoppers from agency-owned sailboats, and even though they provide their guests with everything they need on board, their guests still visit Makarska in large numbers.

- Besides, all that buzz, a promenade crowded with boats, people, music, entertainment, cafes, taverns, souvenirs and pop-up shops...

These are things enjoyed even by hotel employees when they go for an evening

seaside walk. Most of our guests come from up north, Germany or Scandinavia. For them, seeing a ‘red hot’ place like Makarska is quite an experience. Come to our Kelelarga, a historical street stretching across a couple of hundred meters, as we are going to make a brand out of it; it’s been fully restored and all of its vintage buildings look magnificent!

How about: Climb Biokovo!?

- That is also quite a brand. I always advise my guests; don’t ask for a room with a seaside view, ask for one with a view of Biokovo.

There’s so much mystery up that hill! Saint Jure, Vošac, wild goats... Guests sometimes get scarred when they see how steep it is, for fear of collapsing, but once you’ve climbed to the top, your heart grows huge and your view goes all the way to Italy!

- I took over managing a tourist board, which was risky, because I had to secure a future for my two twin sons. Pjero and Ivo are now running the business as experts, with university degrees in management.

There you go, I’ve made it. For years, I had suffered losses, which was expected, because the only thing a person could to make a profit in those days was run an exchange office and have refugees as clients. It seems absurd, but we had about 35 thousand refugees in this area. Of course, our tourist facilities were devastated over this period. The worst time was when we went to war with the Muslims, while their families, their wives and kinds, were still here as refugees. Still, one has to point out that the Makarska Riviera survived this weird period in tourism thanks to those refugees – said Josipović.

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FROM BREAKWATER TO BREAK

Stipe Božić for Port News Croatian mountain climber who’s climbed the world’s seven highest mountain tops, TV travel journalist and filmmaker, published author

HIMALAYA

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iokovo is the mountain of my life.

I was born in the small village of Zavojane, and from there you can see Biokovo in all its glory. As a child, I was always mesmerized by the sight of such heights, their mysteries, so I can only imagine how tourists and sailors feel when they come to Makarska and feast their eyes on the southern side of Biokovo, when they meet this huge rock, this wall that beacons them. Saint Mihovil (Michael) is the top of Biokovo, a spot that made my head spin when I was a kid, and I couldn’t tell you when is Biokovo in its finest edition – it could be during the bountiful summer months, or during the winter, when it reminds me of the Himalayas.

This dominance of Biokovo over the entire Makarska Riviera and its beautiful beaches gives you a complete picture of the area, because it gives you the feeling of nothing being held back, from top to bottom, from the warm see to the brisk mountain tops. All these sights have a hold on me and I can’t resist them, I have to feel them, become friends with them, become a part of them. That’s why I have the same attitude when climbing high or going down, like going deep into the 1395 meters deep Luka’s Pit on Velebit Mountain, or diving – which I love and consider myself a ‘sea dog’, so when I’m coming out of the sea and my eyes go up to Biokovo, I just love to stare up into the sky and feel adventure calling.

Note: Stipe answered our call immediately, and we called him in the evening, while he was attending an exhibition in Zagreb.

You see, Stipe is dedicated to Mountain Rescue Services and he answers every call, at any time.

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A photo report and road trip journal taking you across a short, crooked, 23-kilometer road from SveƟ Jure to the very top of Biokovo

ON THE ROOFTOP

Biokovo is the very rooftop of the Mediterranean, there is reaching so far into the sky on one end, and digging its r advantage of comfortably reaching the top of Biokovo by ca c meters above sea level, which is just f

Written by Elizabeta Sonjara Garber

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ou can come to Makarska by sea and cast your anchor with no worries of storms, because the town’s port is protected by a new breakwater – next year, it will be fully equipped to meet all demands a sailor could have. You can also come by land, via the newly constructed tunnel which connects Makarska to the rest of the world, through Biokovo Mountain. If you arrive by sea, Biokovo could care you a little bit, what with its somewhat threatening steep ends reaching above the town below and drawing your view to the skies. Some people get scarred, but the combination of sea and mountain, depth and height can mesmerize you more than it could ever scare you.

If you came through the tunnel, once again you’ll be drawn by the mountain’s crags and tops. Biokovo is the roof of the Mediterranean,

because there is no mountain reaching so high into the sky on one end, with its roots deep into the sea on the other end.

THE EUROPEAN RATSNAKE Due to its natural beauty and wonders of nature, and due to its extraordinary biological and geological diversity, Biokovo was officially declared a park of nature some thirty years ago. The mountain features countless endemic species, much like Velebit, and you can easily encounter eagles, moufflons, chamois. You’ll have a harder time finding wolves or a Ratsnake, which is a type of snake many consider to be the most beautiful in Europe. There are also many types of flowers and herbs which attract enthusiasts from all over the world, who use them for medicine and honey.

You’ll have to pay an admission fee to visit this park of nature, and a ticket will cost you 40 Kunas. That’s not asking much. Tourist can

KSKY

use the advantage of comfortably reaching the top of Biokovo by car. Sveti Jure (Saint George), the top of Biokovo, stands at 1762 meters above sea level, which is just four meters higher than the top of Velebit. If you want more adventure, you can visit one of the many local paragliding clubs so you can take off from the top and parachute your way down to a beach below.

P OF THE MEDITERRANEAN

s no mountain so high and so close to the sea, no piece of stone roots deep into the sea at the same time. Tourist can use the ar. Sveti Jure (Saint George), the top of Biokovo, stands at 1762 four meters higher than the top of Velebit.

UNDER THE MAPLE TREE Dalibor Miloš Peko lives on Lađana, an area of Biokovo at 1300 meters, where there’s no heat even during the summer.

The only warmth you’ll feel is around your heart, while visiting his wooden lodge located under a huge maple tree, which is indigenous to Biokovo and this height.

We found our host while he was sorting his herbs: thyme, milfoil, osier and St. John’s Wort. But, we didn’t drink herbal tea, we had beer and wine in the sun, in midsummer! You can order anything you want from Dalibor, as he explains...

– I’ve got everything, except money and brains – Dalibor says. There are many anecdotes surrounding this area, like all the times he used to shovel snow on Sveti Jure, and as a professional driver, he even operated a tiller, a tool which is a necessity on Biokovo’s top.

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TITO’S MOUFFLONS AND ROADS Your safari-style car ride to the top will last only about an hour, unless you pause to take photos, grab a drink or meet a ranger for info – those rangers are there to protect Biokovo, and you. There’s only twenty three kilometers of road from the tool booth to the too. However, the mountain’s serpentine are endless and its deflections come so often that you don’t have to be scared of steep ends or crooked, narrow roads. It will enthrall you, and remember – you’re totally safe. But, remember to drive slowly, calmly and have fun!

Locals will tell you a legendary tale of how the road was built thanks to legendary Yugoslavian President Tito. Comrade Tito was supposed to visit Sveti Jure sometime in the late 1970s, so the road was quickly built, leading to the top and the Tower, which today’s serves a home of all kinds of media signals, from television and radio, to mobile phones and police.

Tito is also responsible for some of the most popular inhabitants of Biokovo’s steep, thousand-meter cliffs – the chamois. Tito brought moufllons from Brijuni Islands, and after that, locals say he brought the chamois from Prenje, Mostar.

You won’t be hungry while on Biokovo.

You can eat fine food and enjoy the great atmosphere of ,,Vrata Biokova“, which is located at about 800-900 meters above sea level. You can enjoy eats and drinks at „Pod javorom“, which is a bit higher, at 1280 meters.

If you’re a mountain climber at heart, you can choose where you want to eat, because there a plenty of benches and tables around, under the trees, in the shade, on your way to Vošac, the mountain home at the very top, at 1422 meters.

FROM BREAKW

ICE CREAM PASSION You could also take a break at the infocottage, where you’ll meet the Park’s crew. We met Dražen Mršić and Hrvoje Škralić, and they told us a lot about the many caves of Biokovo, and there’s about four hundred of them, with the deepest one being Mokre noge (Wet Feet), at 839 meters. A log time ago, Bikovo’s pits were popular, as locals would reach into them to gather ice, which they would wrap in leather and carry to Makarska by donkeys.

All that effort was made for a bit of ice cream. One man from Tučepi became famous for being able to carry up to ninety kilos of ice on his back. That ice cream was definitely awesome!

The name Biokovo basically means ‘snow white’, and once you reach the top which shines with snow in the winter and with stone during

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WATER TO BREAKSKY Hrvoje Škralić

the summer, you’ll get your well-deserved award. Don’t mind the telecommunications tower which is slightly above the mountain’s natural top and let’s focus on the highest church in Croatia, the chapel of Saint Jure (Saint George). Note that your mobile phone signal will be obstructed, so no one will bother you while you’re enjoying nature.

MYSTERIOUS ROPES

THE WONDERS OF BIOKOVO DID YOU KNOW ... that Biokovo was named for its snowy whiteness... ... that the Ratsnake is considered one of Europe’s most beautiful snakes... ... that man inhabited Biokovo in prehistoric times, long before any letters... ... that Biokovo is the most important junction for the endemic flora... ... that it is possible to see 250 km away Italy from Biokovo... ... that there are more than 87 churches and chapels on Biokovo... ... that the pit Mokre Noge at 839m is the deepest on Biokovo... ... that Biokovo has 7 species of amphibians and 21 species of reptiles registered... ... that Biokovo is the tallest mountain closest to the coast on the Mediterranean... ...that up to now on Biokovo over 400 caves have been found... ... that 19 550 ha of Biokovo was declared a protected nature park in 1981... ... that cold air spilling from Biokovo creates the famous Bora wind... ... that St. Jure with 1762 m is the highest peak of Biokovo and the second highest peak... ... that the oldest rocks on Biokovo originate from 220 m. years ago... ... that church of St. Jure on Biokovo is the highest church in Croatia...

You’ll feel like your on the top of the world.

On one side, your view reaches to the land, to Vrgorac, Imotski and beyond; on the other side, as you were climbing the top, you were watching the sea, all the bays and beaches, with Italy in the distance. All the serpentine on Bikovo’s top are connected by ropes and handrails, and you’ll need some time to fully realize why those handrails are located so up far. In the winter months, when everything is covered in snow, they don’t seem so high.

Mother Nature has its ways.

HONEY Danko Jović is eighty-two-years-old and for the last twenty three, which is when he bought a used van in Frankfurt, he’s been driving the road to the top of Biokovo every single day. He sells home-made honey from his van, honey which is made from herbs found on Biokovo, and near his van, you’ll find bee hives, the home of Danko’s bees. Every morning, he drives from his village of Ramljani of Vrgorac, and he drives back home every evening.

– There’s no city in the world where my product hasn’t been, says Danko. Everyone takes a photo of me as they drive by. And they feast on my honey.

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SPORT NEWS

‘OLA CROA HOW OTHERS DO IT: Football’s great Sergije Krešiđ speaks out, giving insight into his work in Spain, tourism and sport

We’re wearing a smile, and that has to be that one business model that’s foul proof. Our country was des always has kind words for us even though we’re their competition. Let’s learn! And not feel ashamed becau government helps out by dropping prices for se

Sergije Krešić, famous football coach Dalma, the grandaughter

Interview by Mario Garber

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ow do others do it? Sergije Krešić is an important name in football, but he has that everyday experience from living in Spain for the last three decades, which means he’s an ideal person to talk to about tourism and life in that country.

– In Spain, about 11,5 percent of all employed citizens work in tourism. As much as it is a tourist country, it is also a football country, so let’s compare our two nations.

However, let’s point out that we’re making the comparison because of me, the interviewer – haha...

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BORN FOR SPORTS AND TOURISM – It’s not just that. Spain has the advantage of tourism, but Croatia is literally a country of tourism and sports.

– Correct. That’s the way we were made, those are our features, predispositions and muscles, and now we have to take care of our seeds and plants, so to say. The people of Spain are serious when it comes to their advantages – football and tourism, not only because it is important to their everyday lives, but because tourism and sports are incredibly important businesses on a global scale.

– You live in Marbella, which is a town dedicated to tourism, so I guess you’ve been putting up with high, tourism-driven prices, most of your life!

– Marbella is the most expensive city in Spain. In its hot spots, you’ll pay more than four Euros for a cup of coffee. More than ten percent of Spain’s GDP comes from tourism.

Last year, the country saw 35 million tourists. There’s always domestic tourists, and the number of foreign tourists continually grows. In Croatia, you’d call this ‘the season’.

However, Spain’s ‘season’ lasts throughout the entire year. Everyone gets involved, locally and on a government level.

– Still, you personally couldn’t find the time for tourism.

– Yes, but in a way, I’ve been a tourist my entire life. I’m always traveling and moving;

moving is much worse. I’m not a tourist that goes somewhere new. When I’m on vacation, I go home to Split, or my native Podgora.

SOCIAL SECURITY, IBERIA AND THE SEASON – We used to have a long season, back in the day. s. That will make tourists come here any time of the year. Croatia has everything. The people of Spain use their advantages to the fullest, so their winter season is developed even through their social services, hotel companies, Iberia, airlines, travel agencies – everyone gets involved in a mutual, national project, where they offer senior citizens vacations at reduced prices. So, they’re active all year round. People are fully employed, not just during the season.

– The Spaniards are known as nice hosts, what with their ‘Ola’ greetings...

– They’re better than us, but we do have a knack for tourism ourselves, it just has to be developed correctly. A courtesy smile can open any door. It’s much easier to charge for services when you’re nice. What we must avoid is embarrassing ourselves by creating a negative image of people who charge for services which were not provided. A guest will remember such situations, and never return.

– The recession has shaken things up everywhere.

ATIA!!!

signed for sports and tourism, so let’s take example from Spain, which use we must learn. They have a year-round tourist season because their enior citizens – Sure, the biggest hotel companies in Spain are doing business with losses. Still, they managed to cash in a profit of 7,8 billion Euros, which is a two percent increase since 2012. I believe we’re going to catch our lucky streak, much like we did with football some ten years ago, and get off our high horse of high prices. It’s better to improve our tourism than our football scores. I’m proud to be from Croatia, because you have no idea what it feels like to live in Marbella, watch their television and see two-hour shows present Croatia in a positive light, as a great tourist destination. I was thrilled, I couldn’t believe how kindly they spoke of us, what sort of reports they show about Croatia, and they actually point out we’re their competition.

searching for that extra challenge, something you can enjoy immensely, and only Hajduk could serve that purpose.

– Is it possible that Tudor won’t get any support?

– No, but I am worried, because a lack of support could be the result of being uninformed, not malice. The management is supporting Tudor just like they supported Krstičević. Or me. And you saw how that ended. A new sports director was brought in to replace me and I don’t know what language he’ll use to write up his report, analysis or program. If he was the coach, then that would be different.

WHY DID JARNI LEAVE?!

– How long will Tudor last?

– All in all, if Tudor manages to shine despite poor management, than he is truly smart and powerful. What I’m worried about is a new development, and that is the dismissal of Jarni. I mean, he’s a world class player, a well known name, a person of great knowledge. I don’t know how a club could steep so low to fire the coach of its junior team, because they’re the future. It’s bad if they let him go without considering the fact that he is the only decent successor to Tudor. You need to make each new move while keeping in mind what comes after that. Football and tourism, the principle is the same.

TUDOR OR MANAGEMENT – I suppose you’re not so thrilled about football issues?

– Haha, those are sensitive topics. Sure, we’re acknowledged as a football force, but our national team does not represent our actual state of football. Everyone knows our league is paper thin, our clubs are not organized well and they’re poor. Just the other day, I bumped into Vojo Kačić and we spoke about the days when experts from Europe would come to us to learn about football.

– There’s no coming back to that.

– Why not? There has to be, new generations will come, not just the players, but coaches as well. You’ve got Igor Tudor. When I was in Hajduk, as soon as I saw him, I pointed out that he has to be a key player, has to be supported and protected, nurtured like a fresh plant. But, that’s what management has to do, and I don’t have any positive experiences with management, as they practically forced me out this year. When I was leaving, nobody sat down with me, nobody exchanged a couple of decent words which would be more beneficial to the club than to me. I’m at that age when I’ll accept a job only if the conditions are ideal.

– So, you worked for Hajduk?

– Yes, because for me, Hajduk itself was an incredible offer, but for the kind of money they had offered me, I wouldn’t work anywhere else but there. At my age, you’re

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VIS UNDER THE PIT

CYCING REAGATTAS DEEP INTO THE ISLAND!

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fter enjoying the sea of Vis for an extended period of time, you start craving for land. The hills call you to escape from the crowded sea. Vis is known for offering you a great time hiking through its vast land. This is why the island is full of climbers, hikers and bikers.

Once you’re on your travel, you’ll come across a surprising road sign that will take you to a tavern down the road, but still inside the wilderness of the island. Within its hills and villages, Vis is full of various agotourism spots, so everything that you consume in such places wasn’t imported, but home-grown, naturally, around your hosts’ houses.

One such ago-tourism house is MAXO, located right in the center of Vis, right be-

tween the towns of Vis and Komiža, close to the settlement of Podšpilje. These are actually spring photos, taken when a group of Slovenian cyclist visited Max’s place. That was an intro to a promising season, but now, in the middle of summer, owners Fanita and Tonči Sviličić are surprised that the season is still not in full force, like it was last year.

At Max’s place, just like at other households in the hills of Vis, you have to announce your arrival, so your hosts can prepare traditional pit roasted lamb and other delicious meals, such as ‘pašticada’ (a slow-cooked beef stew), caper plant sauce, prawns in cream or all kinds of chicken – and everything is home-cooked.

The hills of Vis are a place where you

can’t get lost, even though they seem like a man has never set his foot upon their land, which adds an element of excitement.

Despite the lure of adventure, you’ll feel a stronger call from all the taverns you’ll see, which will just show up one by one as you travel along, and your toughest choice will be choosing a place to eat: there’s Max, then there’s Darko at Žena glava near Tito’s Cave, there’s Roki with his vines and cricket, a fife-hundred-year-old tavern down at Pol murva, Ferol in Podstražje, and many others.

Yes, Vis has many activities to offer. Anything from cricket, to paragliding, freeclimbing, hiking, cycling, canoeing, cave exploring, sea diving and diving clubs – the list could go on forever.

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ANCIENT CRAFTS Miki Jerkoviđ, a metalworker in love with shipbuilding

BUILDING A BOAT FOR HIMSELF There’s an old saying ‘You’ll find the worst shoes are worn by the shoemaker himself’. Miki has decided to bust that myth, and to build a boat for himself, one in which he could live

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rue, old school craftsmen are hard to find, especially in this era of plastic products, but you have to give respect to people like Miki Jerković, a sixtyfour-year-old Vis native who has decided to keep his trade alive and loved. Miki is a metalworker.

– Yeah, but that was never actually my job! – Jerković points out immediately.

He has worked in all sorts of workshops, shipyards, he was known as an expert metalworker, but in actuality, he was always drawn to another craft. Right now, he resides in Vis, and spends much of his time in his workshop, a large hangar, where he’s working on a boat for himself.

– It’s just the way things line up. You

finish school to become a metalworker, but you end up working a different job your entire life. I spent fifteen years in Australia, and most of my life was spent in Dubrovnik, where I worked in nautical transport. I had a nice boat anchored at Gruž. But, after my wife died on May 11th, 2011, everything changed. I left my job in Dubrovnik and came back home, to Vis. These days, Jerković is constructing a boat for himself, even though he is known by many as an universal handyman who fixes up or improves at least one boat during winter months. He loves working on boats. Finally, he had decided to make one for himself. Even though the saying goes, ‘You’ll find the worst shoes are worn by the shoemaker himself’. He’ll bust that myth!

– This boat is still nameless, I just can’t decide, but that’s probably because it’s going to be multi-purpose. It will be great for transporting civilians, but fishermen as well. I have a license to fish with nets and advanced equipment. So, this can become a fishing boar. The only thing that matters is that it sails the sea, it has to live. It’s about twelve meters long and almost everything is finished, I’m just putting in a 220-horsepower engine, weighs about a ton, while the whole boat is about twelve tons. It’s going into the sea at the end of this summer. I’m going to go fishing around Vis, I can head up to Palagruža, which will take me about four hours. I believe I’m going to have fun with this boat, live a little. I don’t want to retire.

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The Universe of Omiš A thousand ciƟes within a town: cliīs like you’re in Arizona, the CeƟna Canyon right next to the sea, a sandy beach like the Copacabana in Rio de Janeiro...

HOLLYWOOD THE C

Written by: Ana Gaspar

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id you know that some decades ago, Hollywood filmmakers had the idea of buying Omiš? That piece of info is reason enough to visit this place! Luckily, the people of Omiš won’t sell their home easily, because their town is unique. It’s small, but has everything: cliffs like you’re in Arizona, long beaches which the locals call Copacabana based on its ‘big sister’ in Rio de Janeiro, the Cetina River Canyon which runs green and clear, and meets the seas right in the valley of Dinara. Omiš has its own and unique pirate-related history, as the town still features watch-

towers from those days; such as the Mirabella (Peovica), from where you can see the whole town, and Starigrad (Fortica), which gives you a perfect view of the entire Brač Channel, with Hvar and Šolta in the background.

KLAPAS IN KALAS This is a town that loves to sing. It hasn’t stopped since 1967. You can hear traditional ‘klapa’ chants from almost every narrow street or ‘kala’, as they are called here. Dalmatians

songs resonate. The town has its famous Klapa Festival, but there are numerous concerts and evens every summer, as a part of the town’s cultural program. Then, there’s marathon swimming, fishermen nights, a carnival, Omiš Pirate Nights. The latter of this list occurs in October and will give you the opportunity to cheer pirates in a historical battle reenactment – one which they win – as the outnumbered but fiery pirates of Omiš, lead by Duke Malduk Kačić, defeat the huge Venetian army lead by the Pope’s emissary Akoncio! You’ll see why the pirates of Omiš were paid in gold for a safe passage across their nautical territory, all the way down to Kotor!

FROM CETINA INTO THE SEA For free-climbers, Omiš is heaven. There isn’t a climber that won’t be attracted to the steep rocks of Omiš Dinara (its peak being Kula, at 864 meters), and there isn’t a nature enthusiast who won’t be drawn to the 105-kilometer long, crystal clear Cetina River. It flows through Omiš directly into the sea. You can go rafting on Cetina, and the usual schedule is two groups a day, each going on a three or four hour trip down fifteen kilometers of the Cetina River, with their final stop being Radmanove mlinice – another wonderful excursion spot, ideal for moderate hikers who don’t crave so much adrenalin and don’t have to go rafting down the whitewater of Cetina, sailing on the ‘maestral’ wind or go rock climbing.

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D ON CETINA RIVER AN 1848 WINDMILL

Radmanove Mlinice is a place where tens of thousands of people from all over Dalmatia gather round every Labor Day (May 1st). Today, it’s a restaurant, but the windmills were there since 1722. Nikola Radman opened the first mill to the public in 1848. Back in those days, ‘Radman’ was another name from bread, and today, it’s another name for games. Bread and games, and you don’t need anything else!

Today, Omiš is home to six thousand people, and it’s located between larger centers, Split and Makarska, but it has a riviera of its own. Just like Omiš has a lot of character, it’s neighboring villages are full of character and life themselves, especially during the summer months, when it’s so crowded that you can hardly find a beach spot or a piece of shade.

Everyone who visits the beaches of Pisak, Mimice, Nemira, Ruskamen, Lokva Rogoznica and Duće will surely come back.

PIRATES Even today, you can still see the remains of an underwater safe wall right where Cetina meets the sea. Of course, you can’t see Mostina from above, and that was the idea: any time enemies would get close to our pirates, they would end up crashing into the underwater wall. The only ones who knew where there was a safe, narrow passage, were the people of Omiš, and only their boats could go through. Everybody else would crash, leaving nothing but remains of sunken vessels, as all enemies were defeated. Chains were placed across this narrow path. Simple and effective.

The Pirates of Omiš used special boats, socalled ‘sagitae’ or ‘Arrows of Omiš’. They were quick and could easily maneuver from the sea to the riverside, after every successful journey.

These pirates ruled the Adriatic with fear for two full centuries – from the 12th till the 14th – and were at their peak during the reign of Duke Kačić. Their favorite activity was attacking vessels that were returning from the Holy Land, as they carried treasures collected from ‘infidels’. The Pirates of Omiš were untouchable. They were so powerful that the Pope himself cursed them and excommunicated the people of Omiš from the Church!

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This is Bralić’s third fishing trip, so he’s beginning to develop a fleet. This time, he’s diving into tourism as well, because fishing is a segment that can involve all tourism employees and keep them busy even during winter months

YOU CAN’T BEAT ALUMINUM This is Bralić’s third fishing trip, so he’s beginning to develop a fleet. This time, he’s diving into tourism as well, because fishing is a segment that can involve all tourism employees and keep them busy even during winter months

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veryone knows how much Slavko Bralić loves the sea. In the business world, he’s known as one of the first truly successful entrepreneurs, dating back to the Yugoslavian era, while his company Adriacink is a leader in zinc exploitation. However, Slavko Bralić loves the sea, loves fishing, and he’s been less focused on Adricink as of late, as all his duties were taken over by his successful son Silvano, while Bralić senior has anchored away and is off to sea.

– I love everything that has to do anything with the sea, sailing, swimming, fishing – all sorts of fishing, boating, and I love people who are masters of nautical crafts.

Some years ago, Slavko Bralić organized a Christmas fishing trip, and all of us traveled to the open sea between Hvar and Vis. He chose the team himself: Zlatan Zoričić , a master of the sea, a fishermen, sailor; Remi Kazinotti, a respected musician. Remi and Zlatan took off from Bralić’s boat into a small speedboat, and Zlatan himself managed to catch four amber-jacks

desire is to turn one of my dreams into reality, and that is to organize fishing trips for tourists. Some dozen people can fit into the cockpit of my larger fishing boar, and all of them can catch fish in any way they like. This is a pass-time that you have to pay for, of course. They don’t have to catch fish at all if they don’t feel like it, they can just relax and watch others do it. Anyway, it’s all about prolonging the tourist season.

Bralić believes that any true fishing enthusiast feels better on the sea once summer is over. When it’s mid tourist season, it’s crowded – swimmers, speedboats, crowds, ferryboats...

– Just remember what it’s like to go fishing around Christmas time, or when the sea gets calm during January. Fishing can bring such joy. We have to offer new activities to tourists. I’ve been talking about this for years now, and I was pleased to see that the renowned Kalambera accepted my challenge.

CATHCING TOURISTS

For this purpose, Bralić bought a new boat, the same kind which is used for fishing on the North Sea. It’s so powerful, it can be used for many different things. The boat’s name is Lucija, and it was designed

by Bruce Roberts.

– For this version of the boat, many of our own experts were involved. It’s made from aluminum, which is a popular material right now, because of environmental reasons. Also, this aluminum boat makes much more financial sense than plastic ones. Aluminum can be recycled. Inside the boat, you’ll find first class wood. Aluminum is awesome, and in time, we’ll see more of it, as we gain EU experience. Plastic boats are out of the picture, they are not eco friendly. And they’re not as profitable. This boat can go up to eighteen nautical miles, and is normally used on northern Canada.

Bralić senior and myself decided to stay on the bigger boar, because it has a salon and all sorts of fine things, so we cast anchor and didn’t have much to do but catch comber fish, we were stacking them up by the kilo. Bralić doesn’t give up. Looking at his profile, you can’t help but see a mature Robert Redford.

That’s why Bralić bought a big motorboat called Tomislav, but bought a smaller one soon after, and he keeps it docked at the Matejuška in Split. Bralić is a big friend of Matejuška, and is also great friend with the President of Matejuška Damir Perić.

Bralić is off to a new adventure. He recently bought a fishing boat.

– It’s specialized for fishing, but it’s so big it can be used for many things. I can use it to transport tourists, and my biggest

LUCIJA CAN DO ANYTHING There’s so many ways this boat can be utilized in tourism. Tourist can go wherever they want with Lucija and go fishing, from the cockpit or go deep sea adventuring.

– I take my smaller fishing boat on trips as well, so we can go fishing with the aid of sandpipers if we want to, go by currents or even use long-lines. Anyone can do whatever they want, as long as people are having a great time and the season remains active. The best period for fishing is from October till the end of December, throughout January, February and March – as long as the weather is calm. The boat is fully equipped with all necessary tools and devices. One of the best features of this vessel is that it can be used as a towboat. I can’t wait to form our first group and head off to Mostina, just outside of Hvar and Vis.

DESIGNED BY BRUCE ROBERTS

Slavko Bralić

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Photo report from Hvar: Ultra Europe FesƟval’s nightly aŌer parƟes and daily R&R on Paklenjaci Islands

AN ISLAND THAT NEVER SLEEPS •Hvar, world-known hot spot for party goers •The after party of Split’s Ultra Europe Festival •A report from the extra ferry boat line for party goers

Text and photos Segor Garber

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uring the summer, Hvar is the most important hot spot for party goers in Croatia. It’s been this way for years, so Hvar is known around the globe as a great tourist destination, but also as a party center.

This is why Hvar was chosen as the ideal place to host the after parties following Split’s Ultra Europe Festival.

ULTRA PORT NEWS

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ur after party kicked off with guests, tourists, electronic music fans and festival enthusiasts, as we all took the same ferry to Hvar. You see, Ultra was so crowded that additional ferry lines had to be introduced, so party goers could attend after parties on Hvar. That’s how we got there, by a packed ferry boar, arriving in Hvar at noon on Sunday.

FERRY WITHOUT CARS Any local I asked told me the same, they had never seen such a crowded ferry boat.

People were sitting everywhere, on each other, the boat was packed to the brim. Suddenly I realized, this has to be the first time a ferry boat going from Split to Hvar was without any cars. Funny, really. A boat designed to carry cars without any cars on board. So, we arrive at the Riva in Hvar, and it’s an amazing sight:

the conquest of Hvar! People were literally flooding the town. Music could be heard well outside of town, tourists were everywhere, and everyone was in a good mood, having drinks, hanging out, trying to find their own piece of shade to chill out.

The after party lasted till midnight. Many were commenting that that’s not enough, but nobody complained much, and no incidents occurred. That’s amazing, considering how many people from all over the world attend the festival in Split; there were tens of thousands, so things went better than expected.

NEW YORK AT NIGHT The town looked incredible, like it had become New York for that one night.

Everything was colorful, all the streets and squares were crowded with people in swimsuits, giraffe costumes, wolves,

Supermen, all sorts of attire, so Hvar looked like it was the host of an international carnival.

We even saw some guys dressed as ballerinas in pink, making sure that no oddity was labeled as being out of the ordinary.

Next day, we went for a walk around town, expecting to see Hvar in its usual edition, but there was none of that. Parties continued from night into day with the same crowd.

Even though after parties ended at midnight, everyone who was faced with a closed club decided to buy drinks at local stores and kiosks, so getting supplies wasn’t tough. So, the party continued on the promenade. I met an old high school buddy of mine, and we talked about Hvar. He’s local, Hvar has been his home his entire life, so I wanted to know what he thought about this huge party taking over his home, was it insufferably noisy, and how did this 24/7 partying affect the town. Hvar just doesn’t sleep, ever.

BEST PARTY ISLAN

Tourists take over town • No incidents, parties last from night into day • Giraffes, wolves, Supermen, guys dressed

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JEROLIM FOR NUDISTS The most important news item for him this season is that Carpe Diem is finally owned by the same person as the Veneranda Disco.

You see, while those two clubs had different owner, they were each others toughest competitors. Because they were always trying to one-up each other, people always had to chose between two awesome parties, which meant one party had to be left out. Now, there’s only one owner, and he makes sure both clubs get an equal number of events.

See, when you live on an island that never sleeps, you’d be surprised by some of the problems the locals have. Anyway, as we were chatting, we came to the conclusion that this after party wasn’t amazing because it followed Ultra Europe, but because it was happening on Hvar.

So, two days into our four-day trip to

Hvar, we had to dedicate our last two days to rest and relaxation. We decided to take a taxi boat to one of the Paklenjaci Islands, and we ended up on Sveti Jerolim (Saint Jerome). We actually didn’t know where we were exactly going until our taxi boat made its final stop.

This is actually important. You see, Sveti Jerolim is a nudist beach. I respect everyone’s style, but once the beach got crowded by everyone, including grannies... Well, it was more intense than any after party, but we had to get out of there, just not our thing really. Also, most of the people there were our seniors.

FANCY STIPANSKA We did manage to find a beautifully decorated cafe on the tiny island, everything home-made and original, constructed from

pine tree branches, boats, or beach pebbles.

We spent half the day relaxing in swings hanging from nearby trees.

Our second taxi boat trip took us to Stipanska, where we also had a great day at the beach. Stipanska is a bit more fancy.

Maybe because it’s the home of the Carpe Diem Club, which has amazing armchairs, a volleyball court and all sorts of features.

More importantly, it has a bathroom, which is something you won’t find at Sveti Jerolim’s.

Nudist don’t need bathrooms, right?

Stipanska also has the most expensive water I’ve encountered, at 35 Kunas per liter.

It’s better to drink anything but water while there, it’s more expensive, but at least you won’t feel bad for paying too much for water alone. Obviously, Hvar offers two types of vacation, so choose wisely.

ND IN THE WORLD

d as ballerinas in pink, almost like a carnival • Tourist and locals become friends, tourist spend, locals count profit

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HVAR AFTER NOBODY Meeting tourists in Hvar is truly unusual.

These two are from France and Holland.

You’ll notice that one of them is black, but that’s worth mentioning only because of our mutual ribbing. The other guy is European. I had to play this into our conversation Man, you got style!

His friend immediately cuts in: – And I don’t, huh?

Of course you don’t, you look lame, so you’re Mister Nobody. – I was quick to stress that out.

But, if it were not for style-less guys like you, how could we tell the other guy actually does have style?

We had such a good laugh that we quickly became friends and got to know each other better, but they disappeared at some moment. After some time, I run into the French guy, so I asked him where ‘Nobody’ went off, and his stylish reply was: – Disappeared!

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R PLUS ULTRA

DANGEROUS MASTS

ICE CREAM This guy with ice cream on his face...

His girlfriend did it, and when I asked him about the how and the why, he started asking me what was going on and where he was going. So I told him, as I laughed behind the camera – you’re getting published.

His performance was worthy of a show.

The taxi boat helmsman spoke to us about the troubles tourist face while on Hvar, because they get loose and rowdy, and start handing from the mast right where the boat’s tent is tied down, and quite often, they end up overboard. And hey, you can’t catch them all.

AUSTRALIA This Australian gang, wearing giraffe costumes, came here because their homeland doesn’t have such wild festivals. They’re thrilled, relaxed, the only thing keeping them grounded is the prices. They say that Hvar is much more expensive than Split. Josh Duke and Nick Uhetham concurr.

This guy wearing ice cream on his face...

His girlfriend is responsible, and when I asked him why she did it, he just asked me where was he and what was going on... I had a good laugh and told him he’s gonna get published. His performance was enough to qualify as a show.

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