Cosmetiscope February 2023

Supplements in the Beauty Industry— Not Just Vitamins and Minerals …Giorgio Dell’Acqua

The recent introduction of holistic wellness as a major component of “I feel better, and I look better” is not new to the beauty and cosmetic market However, the explosion of nutritional formulations in the space of beauty from within is today associated with more robust and convincing scientific evidence than in the past Supplement formulations appear more complex and not limited to collagen, vitamins, and minerals to cite some of the most popular ingredients

The introduction of phytochemicals, sometimes in the form of standardized plant extracts, along with vitamin and minerals, provides an increased targeting and holistic approach to inner mechanisms associated with stress, diet, metabolism, aging, etc that eventually influence our exter nal look This is not surprising as our cosmetic targets such as skin, hair, and nail are part of our body and therefore react to our body’s unbalance The connection between our gut and our skin (a diverse gut environment is associated with skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, etc )1 and the influence of hormonal and stress-induced changes (which can trigger hair conditions such as androgenetic alopecia and telogen effluvium)2 are two examples.

Modern formulations use a wide range of ingredients that, when ingested, specifically target biological mechanisms associated with our health and wellness as well as our look. It is possible then to create a for mulation that delivers real efficacy and stands up to its claims Natural ingredients are taking center stage in these for mulations, inspired by the use of naturals in traditional medicine, with the possibility to merge knowledge from the wester n and easter n world.

When taking a closer look at the applications and studies of supplements targeting wellness and beauty, recent reviews have highlighted their use as adjuvants and/or treatment for different der matology or cosmetic conditions such as hair loss, acne, and skin aging 3-5 Since supplements are not FDA regulated, large peer-reviewed clinical studies are necessary to deter mine the efficacy and safety of these supplements, especially since most of them haven’t been clinically tested To avoid running lengthy and sometime expensive clinical trials, product manufacturers often rely on supplier’s data and/or academic literature about the ingredients in the final supplement composition However, it is necessary to test the finished product since the dosage and ingredient interactions and/or synergy can deter mine the outcome both from a safety and efficacy point of view.

The quality of the clinical study is also important (number of subjects, inclusion/exclusion criteria, end points measures, and data significance) Finally, Institutional Review Board (IRB) approval is becoming increasingly in demand prior to the clinical study, especially if dealing with compositions that are new to the market and carry some safety risk. Such approval is often requested by scientific jour nals prior to publication (continued on Page 4)

2023 NYSCC EXECUTIVE BOARD & COMMITTEE

Chair Stacey House chair@nyscc org

Chair-Elect

Amber Evans chair-elect@nyscc.org

Treasurer

Alex Blakeman treasurer@nyscc.org

Secretary Luciana Coutinho secretary@nyscc.org

Advisor Giorgio Dell’Acqua advisor@nyscc org

Program

Cathy Piterski program@nyscc org

At Home Live Series Susanna Fer ndandes Susanna Fer nandes@tri-k com

By-Laws

Amy Marshall amy marshall@altana com

Communications

Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc.org

Special Events

Johanna Gigliotti johanna.e.gigliotti@gmail.com

Cosmetiscope Editor

Roger Mcmullen roger mcmullen@fdu edu

Cosmetiscope Advertising

Bret Clark rbclark@ashland com

Social Media

Maria Sousa socialmedia@nyscc org

Letter from the Chair …Stacey House

Ican’t believe it is February already, but I am very excited about the upcoming programs that we have planned to engage, energize, and entertain our members

We start our first At Home Live program this month providing an overview of the first major amendment to the FDA’s cosmetics authorities in 85 years, the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA) This important webinar will take place on Thursday, February 23rd.

Then, February ends with our first in-person educational program covering a category that has grown in importance and is a hotbed of innovation: “Haircare and Wellness.” Taking place on Tuesday, February 28th at the popular Chart House, this curated panel of renowned scientists will share insight on the effect of various types of stressors on hair and scalp health and also explore related technical solutions

Looking ahead, the March 23rd dinner program will cover: “Sunscreen Innovations and History/ For mulation with DHA for Sunless Tanning.” For the month of April we are designing a webinar that celebrates Earth Day and all things sustainable We also plan to have fresh and relevant content on pro-aging, biodegradability, waterless technologies, the world of color, fragrance, and so much more in the coming months

The NYSCC was also on the move sponsoring the IBA Networking Reception in Los Angeles that featured a sci-comm panel of influencers discussing “Truth in Beauty” on February 16th. We are proud to continue our sponsorship of the CEW Beauty Creators Award for Supplier’s Ingredients and Formulation innovations. Submissions for this prestigious award will be opening soon and the finalists of this award will be announced on May 2nd at the Industry Awards Night during Suppliers’ Day Suppliers’ Day, which will be held on May 2-3, is shaping up to be our biggest event to date and will bring our “Reimagining Renewal and Wellness,” theme to life. We have forged exciting partnerships and are finalizing an incredible program that offers something for everyone including curated content blocks that cover science and technical programs, product development education, lunch and lear ns, and cosmetic science roadmap for beginners as well as product launch intelligence and future inspiration Registration is now open for this can’t miss “Week of Beauty,” at:

www.nyscc.org/suppliers-day

In closing, I would also like to share some recent media interviews with HAPPI Magazine and CosmeticsDesign that will give you sense of industry trends and other items the NYSCC has planned for our members this year and at Suppliers’ Day The HAPPI Magazine interview can be found at:

https://www.happi.com/contents/view happi-tv/2023-02-02/ an-exciting-year-for-the-new-york-chapter-of-the-society-of-cosmetic-chemists/ The CosmeticsDesign interview is available at:

https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2023/01/20/ looking-ahead-in-2023-with-nyscc-chair

I look forward to meeting many of you at our upcoming events Let’s keep the strong NYSCC momentum going!

y the only Tr able ainable Rene Hand w vhar Sus , tes t ed, , Mineral-rich, Ultra Fine Glacial Marine Clay Powder. r.

Concluding Remarks

In conclusion, the cosmetic and nutrition (supplements) industry are converging, with beauty being a shared target Innovative supplement for mulations which carry high end natural ingredients are becoming popular and in demand by the market. Rigorous science and testing are mandatory to make sure the for mulation can survive scrutiny by the consumers and FDA The combination of topical and ingestible treatments in the beauty market is expected to continue to grow in the years ahead

References

1. S.R. Ellis, M. Nguyen, A.R. Vaughn, M. Notay, W.A. Bur ney, S Sandhu, and R K Sivamani, The skin and gut microbiome and its role in common der matologic conditions, Microorganisms, 7(11):550, 2019.

2 I M Hadshiew, K Foitzik, P C Arck, and R Paus, Burden of hair loss: stress and the underestimated psychosocial impact of telogen effluvium and androgenetic alopecia, J. Invest. Der matol , 123(3):455-457, 2004

3 M J Adelman, L M Bedford, and G A Potts, Clinical efficacy of popular oral hair growth supplement ingredients, Int. J. Der matol., 60(10):1199-1210, 2021.

4 A K Clark, K N Haas, and R K Sivamani, Edible plants and their influence on the gut microbiome and acne, Int. J. Mol. Sci., 18(5):1070, 2017.

5 K Sardana and S Sachdeva, Role of nutritional supplements in selected der matological disorders: a review, J Cosmet Der matol , 21(1):85-98, 2022

About the Author:

Giorgio Dell’Acqua is Nutrafol’s Chief Scientific Officer As part of the leadership team, Giorgio spearheads brand innovation, product for mulation, and scientific communication. After obtaining his Ph.D. in Cell Biology in 1989, Giorgio worked in academia for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research Moving to the private sector in 2000, he has spent the last 22 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry During his career, he directed R&D, Innovation, Science, and Product Development at multiple companies, including La Prairie and Kiehl’s. He has helped bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market, authored more than 80 publications in medicine and cosmetic science, holds two patents, and has been a keynote speaker on clean beauty and natural ingredients. Giorgio serves on the NYSCC board as Advisor

Call for Papers

The Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year Authors also receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical perfor mance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and will ensure your place in NYSCC history You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger mcmullen@fdu.edu

FDA Cosmetics Reform is Here –Interpreting MoCRA

February 23, 2023 • 11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

For more infor mation, and to register for the event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

The Moder nization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA) is the first major amendment to the FDA’s cosmetics authorities in 85 years. An overview of the new law and understanding of how it impacts manufacturers, packers, or distributors of a cosmetics product versus cosmetic and raw material suppliers will be provided

n Featured Speaker – Carl D’Ruiz (DSM Personal Care)

Carl is currently the Senior Manager of Regulatory and Scientific Affairs at DSM Personal Care He has 25+ years of experience in providing strategic scientific, regulatory compliance, and pre-market approval advice and direction for the successful commercialization and marketing of numerous OTC drug, cosmetic and personal care products, ingredients, and brands

He is currently the Chair of the PCPC Sunscreen Consortium, championing industry’s efforts to substantiate the safety and efficacy of existing sunscreens and paving the innovation path for the inclusion of new sunscreen ingredients under the FDA’s OTC sunscreen monograph

He holds a master’s degree from Yale University and a bachelor’s degree from Fordham University He also has executive business certificates from The Darden and Wharton Business Schools. He is a full member of the Society of Toxicology, Photoder matology Society, and Society for Cosmetic Chemists

2023 NYSCC Events Calendar

• For updated NYSCC infor mation, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org

• For National SCC infor mation: www.scconline.org

February 23 FDA Cosmetics Reform is Here – Virtual Event

February 28 Hair Care and Wellness, The Chart House, Weehawken, NJ

March 23 Sunscreen Innovations, Pleasantdale Château, South Orange, NJ

April 4 Sustainable Active Ingredients Produced by Biotechnology – Virtual Event

April 20 Earth Day, Liberty House, Jersey City, NJ

May 2-3 Suppliers’ Day, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY

May 2 NYSCC Awards Night, Second Floor NYC, New York, NY

June 14 NYSCC Acne Symposium, Fairleigh Dickinson University, Florham Campus, Madison, NJ

Hair Care and Wellness

February 28, 2023

5:00 – 8:00 p.m.

The Chart House, Weehawken, New Jersey

Event Chairs

Amber Evans, Ph.D. and Farahdia Edouard

For more infor mation, and to register for the event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www nyscc org)

Agenda

5:00 – 5:50 p m

5:50 – 6:00 p.m.

6:00 – 6:25 p m

6:30 – 6:55 p m

Registration and Networking/Cocktail Reception

Introduction

The Implications of Lifestyle on Hair and Scalp Health

– Crystal E. Porter, Ph.D. (Mane Insights, Inc.)

Scalp Application of Antioxidants Improves Scalp Condition and Reduces Hair Shedding in Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trials

– Michael G Davis (Procter & Gamble)

7:00 – 7:50 p m

7:50 – 8:15 p m

8:20 – 8:25 p m

Proudly sponsored by:

Dinner

Scalp Evaluation by FTIR Spectroscopy

– Marcella Gabarra A. Leite, Ph.D. (TRI Princeton)

Closing Remarks

Speaker and Chair Biographies

Crystal E. Porter, Ph.D. – Speaker

Crystal E Porter, Ph D is a hair scientist and owner of Mane Insights, Inc , where she conducts research studying the hair and scalp of people of African descent. Dr. Porter is passionate about debunking myths and empowering others to properly care for their hair As a for mer cosmetic scientist with Unilever and L’Oréal USA, Dr. Porter was able to conduct research and study the biophysical characteristics of hair in pigmented populations She has contributed to the scientific understanding of ethnic hair through authorship of scientific articles, book chapters, and presentations.

Dr Porter earned a bachelor’s degree in Biochemistry from Chicago State University and her doctorate degree from Missouri University of Science and Technology in Physical Polymer Chemistry. Ar med with extensive knowledge and experience, she has created a patented process that helps professionals

understand their client’s hair so that they can provide customized hair care solutions. In addition to her professional work, Dr Porter’s personal passion is educating and mentoring underrepresented youth about STEM opportunities

Michael G. Davis – Speaker

Mike Davis, Principal Scientist, joined The Procter & Gamble Company in 1998 in P&G Pharmaceuticals, where he conducted research on small molecule therapies for peripheral arterial disease In 2006, he joined P&G Hair Care in the Product Claims Support Division In June of 2011 he joined the Hair Biology Group and is now a lead technologist supporting the Head and Shoulders and KeepItAnchored hair retention brands His work on hair structure has led to molecular understanding of hair production and retention. He serves as a reviewer for multiple jour nals and is an Associate Editor for the Jour nal of Cosmetic Science.

Marcella Gabarra A. Leite, Ph.D. – Speaker

Marcella Gabarra Almeida Leite qualified as a Phar maceutical Biochemist in 2016 with a degree from University of São Paulo, Brazil. She ear ned her Ph D in Phar maceutical Sciences at the same university, focusing on technologies for cosmetic products. Marcella has worked on the development and clinical evaluation of hair and skin care products since she was an undergraduate student, which resulted in published articles and oral and poster presentations at several congresses. Currently, Marcella is a postdoctoral fellow at TRI Princeton and works in the Skin and Biosubstrates group

Amber O. Evans, Ph.D. – Event Chair

Dr Amber Evans is Senior Manager of Product Development at Moroccanoil where she leverages her technical expertise in hair and skin care, ingredient and for mulation technology, and claims testing to help drive the global launch of prestige products for hair and body care and hair color. Prior to Moroccanoil, she worked as a development scientist at ingredient supplier BASF, where her contributions spanned hair, body, and oral care She also previously supported hair care initiatives at Procter & Gamble.

Dr Evans ear ned a Ph D in Cosmetic Science from University of Cincinnati and a B.S. in Chemistry from North Carolina Agricultural and Technical State University. She has authored hair care research publications, contributed content to the NYSCC Blog series and NaturallyCurly com, and has been featured on multiple platfor ms that support aspiring scientists and early career professionals Additionally, Dr Evans serves as the NYSCC Chair-Elect, a reviewer for the Jour nal of Cosmetic Science, and a member of the Editorial Advisory Board for GCI Magazine

Farahdia Edouard – Event Co-Chair

Farahdia Edouard is a Senior Research and Technology Manager for the Beauty Care division of Consumer Care at Croda, Inc., based in Princeton, New Jersey Since joining Croda in 2006, Farahdia has held numerous roles, leading regional and global teams across different application areas of Personal Care, with expertise in hair care and skin care for mulation science, and product validation and claims substantiation She has a proven track record of leading the development and launch of several successful raw materials to the market.

Farahdia holds a bachelor’s degree in Molecular Biology and Biochemistry with a second major in French, and a master’s degree in Chemistry and Chemical Biology from Rutgers University Farahdia also holds two patents, has presented at industry conferences, and has been published in trade magazines such as HAPPI Magazine and Journal of Cosmetic Science. She is passionate about science, especially hair science, and continues to make contributions to the industry in hair care product development

NYSCC History Project NYSCC History Project Rags to Riches …Steve Herman

In 1979, the NYSCC celebrated its 25th anniversary with a boat trip The event was a huge success, attracting 300 guests. Unfortunately, it was not priced to break even, and the Chapter found itself with a year-end shortfall of $3,100. To offer some perspective, $1 00 in 1979 was the equivalent of $4 10 today, and the Chapter had no financial reserve A loan of $3,500 was granted by the National SCC Board Fortunately, the first successful Suppliers’ Day came to the rescue with 66 booths and the loan was repaid.

The 1981 Chapter Chair, Dino Muccia, instituted several changes to make Chapter finances more sustainable, including selling supplier advertising in the newsletter and renegotiating the monthly meeting contract at the Robin Hood Inn Suppliers’ Day grew steadily in the 1980s, and by 1986 generated $17,500 in income. Membership took two hits in the 1980s with the creation of the Connecticut Chapter in 1984 and the Long Island Chapter in 1987 By 1988 the NYSCC had its current geographic borders along with a Suppliers’ Day event capable of providing much-needed, dependable, operating income.

The 1988 Suppliers’ Day had 99 suppliers and over 1,200 attendees The exhibit was from 3:00

7:00 p m with a cocktail/buffet from 7:00 – 8:00 p m featuring an open bar The cost to attend the buffet was $30.00 for members and $35.00 for non-members, but the exhibit was free.

We had not yet reached the moder n digital age Interestingly, the March 2nd meeting that year was prophetically about computers, and over the next decade the Chapter evolved, as did the entire world with PCs, the inter net, e-mail, and smart phones changing how we communicate In the two photos from the January 1988 meeting that accompany this article, the registration desk and head table are shown Before online registration with credit cards, checks were mailed to the NYSCC using what is now referred to as “snail mail”

The device on the table in the photograph below is a slide projector. Microsoft acquired PowerPoint in 1987 and it became widely used in a short time The software produced a presentation that was converted to 35 mm slides by a photo processing store and those slides were arranged in a carousel. The computer projector was invented in 1990 So, in the January 1988 meeting, the NYSCC was using a projector with slides in a carousel; however, it was on the cusp of the moder n-day era with laptops connected to projectors.

The boat trip provided the impetus to stabilize the finances of the NYSCC and resulted in a Suppliers’ Day program that 53 years later is an industry event of global importance truly a rags to riches story.

NYSCC Registration desk at the NYSCC January 1988 monthly meeting

From left to right: Viktoria Korosi (Treasurer), Steve Herman (Education), Jack Margres (speaker), Herman Brown (Advisor), Robert Noll (Chairman), Edward Yuhas (Chair-Elect), unknown, Martin Barabash (Membership), unknown, and John Carson (Secretary)

NYSCC Programs NYSCC Programs

Sunscreen Innovations and History/ Formulation of Dyhydroxyacetone (DHA) for Sunless Tanning

March 23, 2023 • 4:30 – 8:45 p.m.

Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, New Jersey

Howard Epstein, Ph.D. and Saba Zareh

Agenda

4:30 – 5:00 p.m. Registration

5:00 – 5:15 p m Welcome and Opening Comments

5:15 – 5:40 p.m. Status Update on Hybrid Method ISO 23698 for In Vitro SPF Testing

Eduardo Ruvolo (Beiersdorf)

5:40 – 6:25 p.m. Cocktail Hour

6:25 - 6:50 p m

Self-Tanning, History of DHA, and For mulating Considerations – Howard Epstein, Ph.D. (EMD Electronics)

6:50 – 7:50 p m Dinner

7:25 – 7:50 p.m. Creating a Transparent Sunscreen for Diverse Skin Tones Using Mineral Filters – Maitree Kanjilal (Kobo Products)

7:50 – 8:15 p m

Your Ideal Bodygard: The Use of Fused-Ring Cyanoacrylate Chemistry to Accompany Sunscreens in the Battle Against Photoaging – Tia Alkazaz (Hallstar Beauty)

8:15 – 8:45 p m Q&A – Wrap Up

Proudly sponsored by:

For more infor mation, and to register for the event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

n Saba Zareh – Event Co-Chair

Saba Zareh is a seasoned beauty industry professional with a bachelor’s and master’s degree in Chemistry from the University of Geneva in Switzerland and an MBA in Marketing Saba has five years of experience in the personal care industry, recently joining Hallstar as a Sales Manager Previously at Givaudan, she brings a blend of technical and business skills to the community

(continued on Page 10)

Event Chairs

Speaker Abstracts and Biographies

The Future of SPF and UVA-PF Testing: HDRS and ISO 23698

Eduardo Ruvolo (Beiersdorf)

The hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS) technique is the first non-erythemal/nonpigmenting approach to measuring the in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA Protection Factor (UVA-PF). Skin reflectance measurements in combination with in vitro transmission measurements can provide the correct assessment of the SPF, UVA-PF (in vivo/in vitro), and critical wavelength. This presentation will cover the status of the development of ISO 23698, presenting results from ring studies and the bioequivalence method with in vivo assessment The HDRS method eliminates skin irradiation and does not require SPF target for exposures The HDRS method will allow sunscreen developers and laboratory testing facilities to better understand, test, and develop sunscreen products.

n Eduardo Ruvolo

Eduardo Ruvolo is currently Clinical and Scientific Affairs Director at Beiersdorf, Inc. in the U.S. Eduardo ear ned a bachelor’s and master’s degree in Theoretical and Applied Physics at University of São Paulo in Brazil Trained as a biophysicist, he has expertise and experience in the physical and life sciences areas Eduardo has developed and delivered scientific substantiation for new claims in the OTC medicine and cosmetic arena by developing innovative clinical study designs and proving the mechanism of action of new active ingredients along with compelling communication to many different professionals across diverse areas of expertise He has extensive research experience and publications in cosmetics, OTC medicine, skin bioinstrumentation, medical devices, and photoprotection He is a member of the U S Sunscreen Task Force and is currently leading the ISO 23698 Project Eduardo is also the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) Sunscreen Committee Chair

Self-Tanning, History of DHA, and Formulating Considerations

Howard Epstein, Ph.D. (EMD Electronics)

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), an ingredient currently used for sunless self-tanning, has a history of use for well over 60 years During the 1920s, DHA was investigated to treat diabetics as a glucose substitute The skin tanning property was discovered when DHA was administered orally to children and some of the DHA accidently deposited on the skin’s surface resulting in discoloration During the 1950s, DHA began to be commercialized as a self-tanning ingredient; however, the mechanism of self-tanning was unknown George Guest and Eva W ittengestein scientists at the Research Institute, Children’s Hospital, Cincinnati, Ohio investigated the mechanism and published their findings during the early 1960s

For mulating self-tanning products with DHA is not without challenges Ingredient compatibility, appropriate selection of emulsifiers, pH, presence of metal oxides, and other considerations can promote development of an orange color on skin and lead to for mulation instability In this presentation, we will review for mulation considerations essential for DHA self-tanning products.

n Howard Epstein, Ph.D.

Howard Epstein is Director of Technical Services for EMD Electronics, Surface Solutions, Philadelphia, PA an affiliate of Merck KGaA, Dar mstadt, Ger many. He was a scholar in residence at the University of Cincinnati Department of Der matology and received his Ph.D. in Phar macognosy from the Union Institute and University in Cincinnati, Ohio during that time He has worked in the cosmetics industry for many years since he began his career, for mulating cosmetics for Estée Lauder, Maybelline, Max Factor, Bausch & Lomb, and Kao Brands. In addition to his interest in botanicals, Howard previously served as editor of the Jour nal of the Society of Cosmetic

Tom Balsamides 375 Minnisink Road Totowa NJ Cell 201.207.0570

Science and is a member of the Inter national Academy of Der matology. He is on the editorial board of the der matological jour nals Clinics in Der matology and SKINmed representing the cosmetics industry to der matologists Howard has authored chapters in various cosmetic technology textbooks including several chapters in Harry’s Cosmeticology and holds eight patents. He received the Maison G. deNavarre Medal Award in 2020, the society’s highest honor supporting the best interests of the cosmetics and personal care industry.

Creating a Transparent Sunscreen for Diverse Skin Tones Using Mineral Filters

Maitree Kanjilal (Kobo Products)

UVA and UVB radiation are known to cause aging, skin cancer, wrinkles, and dark spots Broad spectrum sunscreens provide protection; however, marketed for mulations need to be more inclusive to protect those with deeper skin tones It is a challenge to find aesthetically pleasing products with high protective effects. Organic UV filters can be utilized to meet the need of this demographic However, since they penetrate the skin, they are less desirable at least until the FDA definitively categorizes these materials as generally recognized as safe (GRAS).

n Maitree Kanjilal

Maitree is currently a Staff Scientist at Kobo Products the leading powder and dispersion specialist worldwide She started her career at Dow Chemical Corporation as a technologist. She later worked at Schwan Cosmetics USA as a Chemist for many years before joining the KOBO R&D team Maitree received a M.S. degree in Physics from University of Calcutta (CU) with a specialization in Crystallography She is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists

Your Ideal Bodygard: The Use of Fused-Ring

Cyanoacrylate Chemistry to Accompany Sunscreens in the Battle Against Photoaging

Tia Alkazaz (Hallstar Beauty)

Protecting skin from sun damage is one of the most effective ways to prevent signs of visible aging Innovative stabilization chemistry has enabled authentic, effective protection from direct damage by the most penetrating, longer wavelength (340–400 nm) UVA-I rays However, even some stable chemical sunscreen agents can transfer the energy they absorb to molecular oxygen (creating reactive oxygen species (ROS)) and cause damage to the skin’s DNA, protein, and lipids

Antioxidant additives can scavenge and quench the resulting free radicals and ensuing oxidation events However, their neutralization capability is limited and complicated by strong color, even at low concentrations Antioxidants are, at best, a partial and after-the-fact response At the same time, even with highly advanced for mulations and ideal usage, the effects of the UVA-I region of the light spectrum can never be completely blocked or absorbed UV photons always take some toll on the skin whenever exposure occurs.

The use of fused-ring cyanoacrylates chemistry is a revolutionary, proactive way to halt photoaging in its tracks Rather than repair already-damaged DNA or block some of skin’s exposure to ultraviolet or visible light, fused-ring cyanoacrylates chemistry protects by quenching excitation of skin’s endogenous photosensitizers Photo-induced aging damage is thus avoided because the for mation of singlet oxygen and other ROS is stopped before it starts.

n Tia Alkazaz

Tia Alkazaz is the Sun Care Business Manager at Hallstar Beauty, where she leads the global engagement strategy for photoprotection solutions W ith a decade of technical marketing experience in the cosmetics industry, Tia brings cross-disciplinary expertise in skin biology, ingredient innovation, and business development She holds a B S in Biochemistry and M S in Pharmaceutical Science with a concentration in Cosmetic Science from the University of Cincinnati.

Sustainable Active Ingredients Produced by Biotechnology

April 4, 2023

11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

For more infor mation, and to register for the event, visit the Events section of the NYSCC website (www.nyscc.org).

Cosmetic ingredients based on rare, exotic, or even endangered plant species are of big interest to the cosmetic industry for two reasons Firstly, scientists believe that plants or microorganisms capable of growing in extreme conditions contain molecules that also offer very special effects to the skin. Secondly, marketing professionals like exotic plants as they can be used to create novel, appealing marketing stories for the consumers However, with the increasing demand for sustainable raw materials, the use of these rare and exotic plants is limited in the world of cosmetics. To overcome this problem, the application of biotechnology to produce biomass of these special plants or microorganisms in a sustainable way is gaining a lot of interest from the sector In our presentation, we will introduce a few exciting new technologies to generate biomass for active cosmetic ingredients sustainably.

n Featured Speaker – Fred Zuelli, Ph.D. (Mibelle Biochemistry)

Dr Fred Zuelli is the Business Development Director of Mibelle Biochemistry Switzerland, a business unit of Mibelle Group which develops and produces active ingredients for the personal care and food supplement industry He founded Mibelle Biochemistry 30 years ago and invented many patent-protected actives based on different technologies such as the plant stem cell technology (PhytoCellTec) He previously worked at the Nestle Research Centre in Switzerland His research focused on molecular biology and genetics of commercial baker’s yeast strains

Dr. Fred Zuelli studied Chemical Engineering at the Technical Engineering School of W interthur Switzerland and continued his studies at ETH in Zürich to study Molecular Biology and Biophysics In his Ph D thesis at ETH he investigated the ther mos-stability of bacterial enzymes Up until 2021, he was as Vice-President in the Swiss Society of Cosmetic Chemists and was responsible for the scientific program of the 2015 IFSCC Conference in Switzerland

NYSCC Awards Night

May 2, 2023

9:00 p.m. – 1:00 a.m.

Second Floor NYC • 851 6th Avenue, New York, NY

The NYSCC is excited to once again host the Awards Night event during Suppliers’ Day where the finalists of the CEW Beauty Creators Awards for Ingredients and For mulations will be announced

The event will also encompass this year ’ s theme of Reimagining Renewal and Wellness. Come to our event and bring out your senses with taste (food), touch (our massage chairs), sight (our spectacular production), and sound (listen to our jazz and blues curated perfor mances with top hits of today) Also, don’t miss the free psychic readings!

The world of cosmetics is changing rapidly after the COVID pandemic era as more and more consumers focus on their health, wellness, individuality, and purpose. Consumers are more aware of the tremendous impact we have had on the environment Our cosmetics industry acknowledges this shift and is actively making strides to meet the demand of consumers who are driving the change The beauty and personal care industry is rising to meet consumer demands by embracing ingredients that make consumers feel good about themselves

This fabulous evening will include a premium beverage service all night long plus passed horsd’oeuvres It is a perfect way to connect and network with peers and colleagues in the industry We look forward to celebrating with everyone again during our most anticipated NYSCC social event of the year.

The Awards Night ceremony will be held at one of NYC’s most iconic venues in Midtown Second Floor NYC is where the world’s leading brands, creators, and social clients host extraordinary events in the heart of Manhattan. Located on the second floor of the Hotel Eventi, and overlooking a tree-lined terrace, Second Floor NYC is a bespoke events space The stylish and war m setting serve as a sleek and welcoming backdrop for fashion shows, live perfor mances, brand activations, social events, weddings, and so much more

For event infor mation, please reach out to Giorgino Macalino (Event Lead Organizer for NYSCC Awards Night Events) at gmacalino0713@gmail.com.

For sponsorship inquiries, please contact Jane McDer mott at jmcdermott@ecmallp.com Numerous sponsorship packages and private seating areas are available for your company and guests.

Attire: Smart casual

Pricing: $150 per person includes passed food and desserts plus premium beverage package ($180 per person at the door)

Inspired