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COVERS
Photographer MARC EVANS Model MARY COSTA Makeup Artist GIULIA RONZONI
Photographer JOHAN JANSSON Model DOMINIQUE D @ Montage Models Makeup Artist THRECIA JOY Hair Stylist MATHIEU JACOB Stylist CHEZ LES EFFRONTES
CREATIVE TEAM EDITORS FOUNDER/EDITOR IN CHIEF AELISE BEATTIE DAVIS ASSISTANT EDITOR SUZY TAYLOR ASSISTANT EDITOR MEGAN WILLIS
CREATIVE TEAM FOUNDER/EDITOR IN CHIEF AELISE BEATTIE DAVIS CREATIVE DIRECTOR MATTHEW LEE VITA
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CONTENTS COVER STORIES
06 44
“Red Passion” Marc Evans “The Atelier” Johan Jansson”
ARTICLES/ STORIES
22
“Rose” Brooke Pennington
FASHION/EDITORIAL/ART
14 18 24 28 36 40 50 54 60 64 68 72 76
“Silent Court” Daniele Sabatino
‘Universal Hip Hop Museum” Rocky Bucano Interview
30
“Noir” Kerri Jean “Goldeneye” Timea Ruman Roka “Back on Black” Gaetano Mansi “Titanium” Christina Lazar Schuler “sHE” Eliza Kinchinton “In Absentia” Brock Lawson “The Freedom of Darkness” Uros Kramberger “Animalistic Eyes” Bob Franklin “Black Ethnic” Eric Ouaknine “The Pool” Oliver Morris “Esprit Rouge” Isabella Fresia “Pink Panther” Migle Golubickaite
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Editor’s Letter
I
N THIS ISSUE WE HAVE ANOTHER COLLECTION OF SOME OF OUR BEST ARTIST’S. WE ALSO HAVE THE HONOR TO INTERVIEW THE CHAIRMAN TO THE UHHM EVENT THAT WILL BE HAPPENING IN JUNE 2016. OBSCURAE MAGAZINE HAS TAKEN THE WONDERFUL OPPORUNITY TO SPONSOR THIS EVENT. FOR THE NEXT COUPLE OF MONTHS WE WILL HAVE ARTICLES, STORIES, INTERVIEWS, AND SO MUCH MORE ON THE UHHM EVENT. THE WEBSITE FOR THE UHHM EVENT IS UHHM.ORG. WE HOPE EVERYONE WILL TAKE THE TIME TO LOOK INTO THIS EVENT AND POSSIBLY DONATE TO A WONDERFUL CAUSE. I HOPE YOU ENJOY ANOTHER SPECIAL EDITION ISSUE!
Love, Aelise Beattie Davis Founder/Editor-in-Chief aelisedavis@obscuraemagazine.com obscuraemagazine.com
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RED PASSION Photographer MARC EVANS Model MARY COSTA Makeup Artist GIULIA RONZONI
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Fur Jacket COLMAR Dress MANILA GRACE Shoes DR MARTENS Jewels LIM.GLAM
SILENT COURT Location PALAZZO VELLI Photographer DANIELE SABATINO Photography Assistant OSVALDO LATTANZIO E DAVID DONNINI Art Director + Stylist + Fashion Editor PAOLA GLAM Makeup Artist + Hair Stylist SILVIA FEDERICI Model SARA B. Clothes GRUPPO CLARK Jewels LIM.GLAM
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NOIR Photography IMAGES BY KERRI JEAN Models MADISON KAE SCROGGIN + MOLI HALL Makeup Artist JULIE A POWERS Hairstylist CHIE SHARP @ Perpetual Studio Wardrobe ANNE KLEIN + NINE WEST
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GOLDENEYE Photographer & Image Retoucher TIMEA RUMAN-ROKA Makeup Artist ANNA FIORE Model NOEMI BOSCO @ Free Models Agency Location STUDIO, NAPLES (IT)
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Overcoat FANTASIA FIORI E RAMI Renaissance www.rinascimento.com GonneTulle CINTURA NASTRO civico 22 www.civico22.com Booties CAMOSCIO
BACK TO BLACK Photographer GAETANO MANSI Fashion ANSELMO ITALY Stylist TATIANA CARPIGNANO Hair Stylist + Makeup Artist LORENA SMANIOTTO Artwork + Digital Edits FRANCESCO GIARRUSSO
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UNIVERSAL HIP- HOP MUSEUM INTERVIEW WITH ROCKY BUCANO
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O
BSCURAE Hello Rocky, how are you today? ROCKY I am great and blessed. Everyday is a great day when you’re leading a massive project such as the Universal Hip Hop Museum. OBSCURAE Can you tell us a little bit about yourself, what you do, what you’ve accomplished? ROCKY I was born and raised in the Bronx - the home of Hip Hop. My love for Hip Hop began as a young teenage DJ. My cousin Pete DJ Jones was the most popular DJ in New York City during the 70’s. He was my mentor and gave me my first real break as DJ working for the Stardust Ballroom while I was in high school. I have held many different jobs from club promoter to television production to interactive television developer to record label owner, artist manager, non profit manager and now Chairman of the Universal Hip Hop Museum. I guess you can say that I’ve been blessed to work in many different industries which I imagine has made me very prepared to build a 21st century forward thinking museum for Hip Hop Culture. OBSCURAE What made you want to start the Universal Hip Hop Museum? ROCKY I am one of eight founding members of the UHHM. The other members are Afrika Bambaataa, Kurtis Blow, Melle Mel, Grandwizzard Theodore, Joe Conzo, Cutman LG and Mickey Bentson each of whom are pioneers of Hip Hop culture. The project began as a real estate development project that was part of Young Woo’s bid for the Kingsbridge Armory in the Bronx. Young Woo was introduced to me about supporting his
project called Mercado Mirabo an open mix market with sports, dinning, and entertainment. He needed something that would draw tourists and I knew that other people had attempted to get a Hip Hop Museum off of the ground but for some reason were not able to get the support that they needed. I knew that I had the respect of the leaders of Hip Hop and business acumen to pull together the right group to get a museum developed. I also knew that the time to build a museum for Hip Hop was right. Hip Hop’s life cycle is at the top of the S Curve and the need to preserve the culture is so important that we just had to get it done this time. OBSCURAE What does the Universal Hip Hop Museum mean to you? ROCKY This is the most important project that I have ever worked on in my life. Hip Hop is part of my DNA, I have been part of the Hip Hop Community since the beginning. The Universal Hip Hop Museum is dedicated to the preservation, protection and advancement of Hip Hop Culture. This museum has a huge responsibility to pay homage to the pioneers who paved the way, as well as to develop educational programs and entertainment shows that help guide the future of Hip Hop. OBSCURAE Where do you see the Universal Hip Hop Museum going in the future? ROCKY Well, first we are going to launch a very hip and innovative virtual museum designed for mobile smartphones and devices. The Virtual Museum offers a 2 dimensional and 3 dimensional view of the world’s greatest collection of Hip Hop photos, videos, artifacts, articles and memorabilia. The museum’s unique user interace allows our patrons to access full immersive exhibits produced in 360 virtual reality. The museum’s virtual reality plan is to create Hip
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Hop history vinnettes in full 360 HD video for VR viewers such as Google Cardboard, Samsung Gear VR and Oculist Rift. Virtual reality allows our curators to create a unique historical perspective of Hip Hop History that will make each patron of the virtual museum feel like they have stepped back in time and are able to re-live the most important events and tour iconic places that allowed Hip Hop to flourish. OBSCURAE What message do you think the Universal Hip Hop Museum will deliver to it’s viewers and audience? ROCKY The Universal Hip Hop Museum will be viewed as the place where patrons of Hip Hop Culture can get an accurate analysis of the history of Hip Hop as it evolved around the world. They will see that the UHHM is more than a museum with K-12 educational programs, social impact investment into communities that lack resources in technology, cultural arts and education. They will see a unique museum who is dedicated to empowering you and the disadvantaged. OBSCURAE We heard you are having a party over the Universal Hip Hop Museum in June, can you elaborate on that?
ROCKY The Virtual Museum will allow Hip Hop patrons and scholars to access the museum 24 hours a day for a small nominal fee. OBSCURAE When do you expect the museum to open? ROCKY We hope to have the virtual museum open later this year we just launched a KickStarter to help us raise $75,000 to fund final development and design of the mobile platform. We want to have the physical building open by Q1 of 2018. OBSCURAE Who will be taking part in this amazing event? ROCKY All of the legends of Hip Hop are behind the project. Kurtis Blow, Ice T, Q Tip from Tribe Called Quest, Krayzie Bone from Bone Thugs and Harmony and many other successful business executives and content creators are providing advice and guidance to ensure the project’s success. Nelson Mandela’s grandson Ndaba Mandela is the museum’s Vice Chairman.
ROCKY We have a couple of big celebratory events planned for 2016, the first one is being hosted by our Women of Hip Hop Committee on June 3rd at the Alhambra Ballroom in Harlem NY to celebrate the achievements of Hip Hop’s female icons and ambassadors. The second bash will be during The Rapture Pop Up Art Exhibit at the Old Bronx Courthouse opening June 9th and ending July 2nd.
OBSCURAE Do you have anything you’d like to say to our viewers?
OBSCURAE Where will the museum be located?
OBSCURAE Do you have any last words you’d like to share with us?
ROCKY We are in discussions with city and state officials to secure space for the museum. We have our eyes set on making the Old Bronx Courthouse the museum’s brick and mortar, but we haven’t signed a deal yet, so we are keeping our eyes open.
ROCKY Please visit our website www.uhhm.org and share the UHHM brand with the world. They can follow us on twitter, instagram and Youtube @uhhmuseum.
OBSCURAE We heard the museum will also be digital, can you elaborate on this?
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ROCKY Yes, please consider making a donation to our Kickstarter http://kck.st/1TIjrdc to help us bring this amazing project to the world.
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TITANIUM Photographer + Retouching + Edit CHRISTINA LAZAR - SCHULER Makeup Artist + Hair Stylist HEIDI CHEUNG Model MICHELLE BAKER @ NUMA Vancouver
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sHE
Photographer ELIZA KINCHINGTON Models SARAH BRETLAND + SOPHIA YOUNG Makeup Artist + Hair Stylist MARIA VARTANIAN Stylist HARRISON YOUNG
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THE ATELIER Photographer JOHAN JANSSON Model DOMINIQUE D @ Montage Models Makeup Artist THRECIA JOY Hair Stylist MATHIEU JACOB Stylist CHEZ LES EFFRONTES
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Dress TY_LR Australia Necklace EXPRESSIONS Shoes STUART WEITZMAN
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Jacket RIGORLUX Pants MALENE BIRGER Boots MICHAEL KORS
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Sweater SISTE’S ITALY Bracelet + Broche CLIO BLUE
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Halter RONNY KOBO Belt TRES CHIC STYLING
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PALE + PLUME Photographer TRISH HADLEY Makeup Artist LAURA CORBAT Hair Stylist MIKEL MARTINEZ
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QUEEN OF THE AMAZONE Photographer SELINA DE MAEYER Makeup Artist DAINORA DULCYTE Model LYDIA VAN LAAR Stylist LISA SCHULL Designer Tinus D Freakysteel Hair BALMAIN HAIR
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ANIMALISTIC EYES Photographer BOB FRANKLIN Model TIFFANY MERRIMAN
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ROSE WRITTEN BY BROOKE PENNINGTON
A
imlessly I dragged my hand through the foam of my bubble bath. The relaxing effect I’d been going for had yet to show up, so I tried my usual method of concentrating on doing nothing. As usual, I had a sneaking suspicion this wasn’t how relaxation worked. The entire fashion world was awaiting my fall/winter collection, and although I’d thrown together some prototypes and hired a show’s worth of models, only I knew that my typical feeling of excitement and inspiration was missing. I’d traveled, had spa treatments, taken up dance lessons, and several other things my therapist suggested to “find” my missing inspiration. With Fashion Week only two months away, I was starting to fear it was lost for good. “Rose?” My assistant’s hesitant voice interrupted my forced reverie. “The models are here to try on the newest versions of your designs.” “I’ll be right out,” I sighed, drying off and throwing on a thin coat of makeup. No reason for the models to know
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that what they were wearing was my most uninspired collection ever, and that if those clothes went down the runway the fashion press would be sure to agree with me. By the time I arrived in my downstairs studio from my sleeping quarters upstairs, my assistant Kelly had dressed the models and lined them up in the order that I had most recently suggested to her. They paced the room for me one at a time, and my heart sank as I realized that all of my mental criticisms of the clothes were true... probably even more true now that the dresses were on flesh-and-blood models instead of in my imagination. My main color choices were black, brown and forest green. I had accented many of the pieces with thick silver chain. As a model turned in front of me, wearing a heavy green-andbrown plaid shirtdress with a chain belt, I knew she looked weighed down by both the color and fabric I had chosen. I knew if I didn’t feel joy or inspiration when looking at this work, no one else at Fashion Week would either.
After the models left, Kelly brought me a cup of tea prepared just the way I like it. “Thanks,” I smiled at her gratefully. At least my daily tea time could be free from conflict and decision. “Rose, I hope you don’t think I’m being nosy, but is it possible you’re dreading the 20th of this month more than you’re letting on?” I’d thought I had been hiding the upcoming anniversary of my mother’s death rather well. Kelly’s response showed me that I clearly hadn’t. She had had a brief battle with cancer, and at least I’d a chance to say goodbye, but as an only child I had been spoiled by my mother’s love throughout my life. “No, Kelly, it’s fine. I’m glad you noticed.” After Kelly had gone home for the day and it was only my own footsteps echoing in my empty townhouse, I drifted to the computer. Perhaps if I was motivated to make a change or do some good because of my mother’s death, it wouldn’t feel as if it was hanging so heavily over me, making my pencil drag and keeping me from addressing the problems I saw in my upcoming collection. I logged onto a breast cancer donation site and with a few keystrokes had made a donation equivalent to my income from last season’s collection.
When I stood up from the desk I felt lighter, almost dizzy. My hands wanted to lift on their own, and I reached for a nearby pad of paper. I dropped onto the couch and didn’t stop drawing until three hours later. I called Kelly, roused her from bed, and brought my design team to my loft for an emergency meeting. Two months later I beamed proudly as the same models who had been so dragged down by my earlier work strode down the runway, each one dressed in a different shade of pink. There was a simple powder pink column dress, a dark magenta evening gown with a brown leather bolero jacket, a bubblegum-colored leather skirt suit with a sleek silk blouse. The styling was light and carefree, with the models’ hair flowing loose. The press was loving it, and Kelly squeezed my hand every time a new look came out. As for me, I no longer felt weighed down by a dark heaviness that I couldn’t define, but that had forced its way out through my work. It was as though when I had decided to contribute, to help ensure that others might not have to go through what I did, my heart decided to do what my mother must have wanted me to do when she chose my name. It rose.
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BLACK ETHNIC Hair Stylist CELINE ANTUNES SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL AMBASSADOR Assistant YOEL GEORGES Photographer ERIC OUAKNINE Stylist LAURA DE VILLEBONNE Salon 52EME AVENUE Makeup Artist STEPHANE DUSSART Models VICTORIA WACOUBOUE + MAHADY VANPARIS Video FRANCOIS XAVIER BOUCHERAZ
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THE POOL Photographer OLIVER MORRIS Lighting Assistant CHARLIE RICCARDO J Models CAROLINE REYNOLDS @profilemodels.com + TAMSIN CARTER @ bookingmodels.co.uk + REDA @ bookingmodels.co.uk + ROSIE ASHLEY @ bookingmodels.co.uk Swimwear PROJECT 104 Accessories BEST OF BOTH BOUTIQUE Bag BEST OF BOTH BOUTIQUE Stylist CL WEDDERBURN Hair Stylist LAURA TODD Makeup Artist JOHN MACLEAN + NANCE SYNTHIAH KABASELE Location LADY AN A BROCKLEBANK
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Bag CHANEL VINTAGE Skirt DOMENICO CIOFFI
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Dress + Jacket ANNIE P
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