ISSUE 6 July 2015 MCI(P)032/08/2014
SCRUMPTIOUS SHIZUOKA! It’s possible to eat your way through this prefecture
of a new day Nutritious, hearty and definitely convenient for lunch!
What a MATCHA! Green is the new black
A Fresh Perspective
Chef David Myers redefines fusion cuisine with his own unique style.
contents
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A Cool(er) Summer Hot summer days aren’t going
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to get the Japanese down;
Ghin takes us on an epicurean
check out what they do to beat
04 06
the heat
A Year of Good Food Can’t-miss Japanese food
adventure through the
32
events all over the world
A Toast To New Frontiers When local brand Ya Kun Kaya Toast meets Japan-born Beard
Time For Tea Did you know there are over
36
Find out how chef David Myers’ love of Japanese cooking has influenced his own at Adrift
Much Ado About Zaru bamboo basket dates back to
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the Edo period!
06 38
Sweet, Sweet Success Sweets artist Junichi Mitsubori gets creative with traditional
we shine the spotlight on three
Poetry On A Plate
donburi
The creation of this Japanese
20 types of green tea? Here,
14
Don Speak Three chefs share everything versatile and highly popular
kaya cream puff that combines
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stunning prefecture
you need to know about the
Papa, the result is a heavenly the best of both worlds
Feast On Shizuoka Chef Tetsuya Wakuda of Waku
Japanese confectionery,
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wagashi
Miso Cheese Food consultant Go Igarashi and his wife give us a taste of this fascinating combination
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opening notes
A Cool(er) Summer Summers in Japan can be unbearably hot, which is why the locals have come up with a number of novel ways to stay cool.
S
COOL EATS In local parlance, shun refers to the peak period of produce, fish, and other food in Japan. Each food has its own shun, which may explain why certain dishes are more popular during certain seasons. Summer seasonal dishes are known as natsu no shun. A classic summertime staple is umeboshi (pickled plums), which is typically eaten as a snack or a side dish. The samurai was also known to consume umeboshi to combat battle fatigue. Another classic summer dish is unagi (eel). While grilled eel can be consumed all year round, unagi is particularly
Keep your cool with a summer yukata.
beloved during the summer months because of its energy-boosting properties. Rich in nutrients such as vitamins A, B1, B2, D, and E, as well as calcium and protein, unagi is the perfect pick-me-up during those hot, sluggish days. Another summer staple is the watermelon. Apart from being oh-sorefreshing, the Japanese have a lot of fun with watermelons too. During the summer months, you’ll often find people playing suika wari on the beach. Literally translated as “watermelon breaking”, this involves hitting a watermelon with a baseball bat while blindfolded until the watermelon is smashed open. Other natsu no shun dishes to look out for include an array of summer fruit and vegetables – from soy beans to bitter melons (goya), and peaches to pineapples. A particularly popular natsu no shun dish is tokoroten, a dish made from jelly extracted from seaweeds like
Umeboshi are usually served as a side dish to rice or eaten in rice balls.
Doyo-no-ushi-no-hi is the day to eat unagi in Japan
2
tengusa and ogonori. This jelly is pressed against a device known as the tentsuki to be shaped into noodles. These noodles are then enjoyed in a variety of ways, depending on the region, with toppings such as vinegar, soy sauce, mustard, or sesame. In the Kansai region, tokoroten is eaten with black honey.
DINE OVER WATER Of course, simply eating “cool” foods is not enough to keep the heat at bay. What happens when you really need a respite from the soaring temperatures? In Kyoto, the locals have an ingenious way of beating the heat. Kawadoko is a form of al-fresco dining that takes place on dining platforms suspended above a river. Dating back to the Edo period (1603-1868), this form of dining helps you take advantage of the cooling effects of the waters rushing below you. Some of the most popular spots in Kyoto include the stretch along the Kamogawa River, which runs across Kyoto’s city centre, as well as Kibune, located about an hour north of Kyoto by train. Here, you can tuck into a delicious traditional Japanese meal on tatami floors elevated mere centimetres above the cold Kibune River. Kick back with a bottle of chilled sake and enjoy an idyllic dinner under the gentle twinkling of genji fireflies. Kanpai!
TEXT VANESSA TAI
ummer in Japan is quite unlike anywhere else in the world. The enervating heat and humidity can leave one feeling listless and lethargic. In fact, the Japanese have even coined a term for this experience of fatigue – natsubate. However, you don’t have to let the weather get you down! For one, summer is the best time to show off your beautiful yukata. This casual summer kimono is usually made of cotton or synthetic material, and is unlined, making it a breezy option for those hot summer days. Here are several other tried-and-tested ways to beat the heat.
#oishiisg Instagram Contest Congratulations
“This shot was taken on one of the bridges by the Meguro River in Tokyo when I went with my best friend for our very first Sakura viewing. It was a beautiful evening and the sun had just set and everyone was out strolling by the river. Japan is my favorite country and I love the culture and food here. My favorite place in Japan is still Tokyo because the city is extremely lively and full of interesting things to see and places to visit.”- lyta A well composed photo. The dark blue sky, the reflection of lights on the river surface, and the purple pink sakura flowers compliment each other so much, giving this cherry blossom season a romantic yet mysterious feel. - OISHII editorial team
Grand Prize Winner Photo by lyta
ur e yo with r a h S ness !!! good ii today Oish
Runners up
Canon PowerShot N2 (worth $399)
Finalists
Congratulations to the 2 winners!! They will each walk away with Canon camera accessories.
jactan28
keesiaoo
annatavia
josephine_wang_sg
mightykai
bunnygie
mightykai likenath
The 3rd shot starts TODAY!!
The contest will end on 1 September 2015 at 5pm (Singapore time)
<How it works> Step 1: Take photos of what you like about Japan(eg. food, places, people, culture, etc...) Step 2: Get creative and upload as many photos as you like on your Instagram and tag #oishiisg
Winners will be announced on Oishii magazine vol.7, issued on 1 October 2015. All winners will be contacted via email or phone on prize collection details. <Terms and conditions>1.Please do not post any photographs that are obscene, vulgar, pornographic, hateful, threatening, racist, sexist, discriminatory, or which otherwise violate any local or international laws. 2.You must be the copyright owner of any works submitted and you also confirm you have the necessary permission from people who may appear in the photo. 3.Photos uploaded to the contest cannot be deleted and may remain published. 4.By entering this contest you agree that any winning image or runner up images you submit may be used by OISHII magazine solely for the purpose of this contest or future contests and no other purpose. 5.The judges’ decision is final and they do not engage in communication with regard to entries. This contest is currently open to residents of Singapore. #oishiisg Instagram contest terms may change from time to time. For updates on the contest, please visit our Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/oishii.magazine) By entering this contest, you are deemed to have understood and agreed with the terms set out above.
events
A Year of Good Food In the spirit of re-invention, Japanese F&B industries bring their latest innovations to the world in these must-visit events. MILAN, ITALY
Health Ingredients Japan 7 to 9 October 2015
TOKYO, JAPAN
The 26th anniversary of Asia’s largest tradeshow on the most advanced health ingredients would see over 330 exhibitor presentations on new products, results of latest research and announcement of new business developments. Special Conferences by high-profile speakers in the functional ingredients industry would also be held at this leading industry trade show.
SINGAPORE
Expo Milano 1 May to 31 October 2015
In line with Expo Milano’s theme of “Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life,” Japan’s exhibition themed “Harmonious Diversity” aims to display various innovations in the field of agriculture, forestry and fisheries as well as food to the 20 million visitors of the event. Through this exhibit, Japan aims to propose its food culture as a good example of a healthy, sustainable and balanced diet.
10th Agri-Food Expo Tokyo 18 to 19 August 2015
TOKYO, JAPAN
This two-day event is a trade show of domestic farm products from all over Japan. Endorsed by Japan Finance Corporation (JFC), it serves as a platform for farmers of local Japanese brands and agricultural products to interact with food manufacturers, supporting associations and potential industries of the same trade.
TOKYO, JAPAN The 17th Japan International Seafood & Technology Expo 19 to 21 August 2015
With 1,200 booths serving an estimated of 35,000 visitors over three days, this event brings together incredible seafood products from exhibitors in a chance to exchange information and promote development of the Japan’s fishery industry. Various menus and products would be presented for domestic and overseas buyers, spreading the appeal of seafood as key in a healthy and well-balanced Japanese diet.
Asian Food Show 2015 21 to 23 October 2015
OSAKA, JAPAN
Held in the “Food Capital of Japan,” this event brings the latest trends in Asian food and beverages to over 35,000 new Japanese customers. The show brings together food manufacturers, importers and distributors from all over Asia Pacific, and features a showcase of Asian cuisine, an exhibitor demonstration stage, Halal food showcase and a food business seminar.
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Oishii Japan 22 to 24 October 2015
ASEAN’s largest dedicated showcase on Japanese food and beverage comes to Singapore once more, bringing 280 exhibitors and drawing in over 11,000 visitors. Catering to F&B professionals, chefs, restaurateurs, hoteliers, importers and distributors, this is an all-encompassing showcase of food, drinks, equipment and machinery from all over Japan.
WORLDWIDE Global Sushi Challenge 14 May to 25 November 2015
The Norwegian Seafood Council (NSC) and World Sushi Skills Institute of Japan (WSSI) is organising the largest international competition for sushi chefs, taking place in 14 countries across Asia, Europe and America. With a professional accreditation programme incorporated into the event, this challenge also aims to promote hygienic practices in handling fish and seafood in the sushi-making industry.
Agro Innovation Japan 2015 18 to 20 November 2015
TOKYO, JAPAN
Agro-Innovation is a professional exhibition showcasing latest technologies and products that drive the agricultural business in Japan. This event draws some 250 companies across 300 booths, with exhibits ranging from horticulture and processing technology, agrichemicals and information systems and monitoring meant to spearhead agricultural solutions in Japan.
9 - 12 Jul
Summer ir a F u h s u y K le a S o p x E n a t e s I @
Don’t miss
Kumamoto
Fair
17 – 27 Ju @ Isetan l Scotts 28 Jul – @ Isetan 6 Aug Jurong Ea st
HEIKEYA Nishime Manjyu (Vegetable Bun) 1pc ($3.50)
OKADA COFFEE Ice Candy 1pc ($2)
!
OYAMA SHOTEN Horse Oil Cream 70g ($58.50)
KUMAMOTO MARUKAI Seaweed Tempura 160g ($16)
KUMAMOTO MARUKAI Yaki Surume Squid 170g ($16)
IMODARAKE Baked Sweet Potato per 100g ($2.50) ANAMI SHOKUHIN Assorted Seaweed Salad 35g ($16)
OKADA COFFEE Cream Daifuku Rice Cake 1pc ($2)
IJIMA SHOTEN Deep Fried Kibinago Fish 100g ($6)
IFU DOUDOU Red Spicy Ramen 1 bowl ($13) Kumamoto Akashin Ramen 114g ($3.90)
Hino Kuni Kumamoto Tonkotsu Ramen 250g ($7.80)
MURAKAMI KANKO Gauze Mini Towel 1pc ($6) Kumamoto Ramen 186g ($6.30)
Kurume Hotomeki Ramen 123g ($3.90) SUGI YOHOEN Blueberry & Honey 500ml ($25) Yuzu & Honey 500ml ($25)
Aqua Pouch 1pc ($7.50) Talking Kumamon doll 1pc ($37.50) Socks 1 pair ($6)
*Available at Expo & Scotts only
interview
A TOAST What happens when a wellloved Singaporean brand becomes the franchisor of a beloved Japanese cream puff? Jesher Loi, Director, Branding & Marketing Development, Ya Kun International Pte Ltd, tells us more.
T
he Ya Kun kaya toast you have today is almost the same as what we had in the past – the same kaya toast, bread, butter, and the same suppliers as well. Interestingly, even though people want new menus and innovation, they will keep going back to the good old kaya toast and kopi. Some of our customers even have the same cup of coffee done the same way everyday. Ya Kun Kaya Toast may not seem to have much in common with Japanese cream puff brand Beard Papa. Yet we became the master franchisor of Beard Papa in Singapore because we felt that both companies share similar roots in their philosophies and principles. We view heritage as a key component in keeping with our values, use excellent ingredients, and innovate while not deviating from our core product. By being Beard Papa’s master franchisor, there is room for our businesses to expand and build on each other. That said, we remain two separate entities – there is synergy in going forward together but there is also strength in standing alone. I put a very high value on working hands-on at the stores, and have done so myself. Our staff spends a week or two in an outlet because that is
the bread and butter of our trade. In that vein, I went to Japan with some team members for our first round of training in Beard Papa. Once we opened in Singapore, I manned the store from time to time because I believe that one cannot just look at the numbers in a food business. It is by working and preparing on the ground that you really understand the trade. I love Japanese food because it is so tasteful and flavourful, yet you don’t go away feeling too full or heavy. Beard Papa’s delectable kaya cream puff is the simplest manifestation of our brands’ cooperation. It was a Japanese invention meant to incorporate a uniquely Singaporean flavour into their menu. They found Ya Kun as they were looking for the best kaya, and conducted research and development even before our companies’ joint venture. Beard Papa aims to constantly create new and exciting flavours on a steady rotation for the public. We will have seasonal flavours, like fruity ones or heritage Japanese flavours, to bring our customers a taste of Japan. I love how the puffs are a light and healthy way of getting a whiff of Japan. That’s what we are looking for.
For a full list of Ya Kun Kaya Toast locations, visit http://yakun.com/find-us/. For more information on Beard Papa, visit https://www.facebook.com/BeardPapaSingapore.
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TEXT SHARIFAH NURSYAFIQAH PHOTOGRAPHY LIEW JIA JUN
To New Frontiers
Three Generations of Success
As the grandson of Ya Kun’s founder, Jesher has always liked the taste of kaya from the day he first tried it. Some of his fondest childhood memories involve visiting the Ya Kun at Lau Pa Sat and being treated to kaya toast and Milo Peng. A frequent visitor of Japan, he admires not just the cuisine’s flavours but also its attention to detail.
u ug dF lice ly S Thin im sh Sa
i( $7
0 ++ )
Do you dare to try
the Fugu fish?
When you mention “fugu fish” or “puffer fish”, people may immediately think of “poison”! However, the delicacy from Japan, when handled by the professionals, is a healthy eat that is low in calorie, and rich in collagen. FUKU is the only restaurant in Singapore and Southeast Asia to offer fresh fugu fish. Here, you can enjoy the fish prepared in different ways. The most popular, however, is in a hotpot. And at FUKU, you have 3 types of stocks to choose from.
Hot Pot with Fugu (1 person) Fugu Sushi ($69++) ($20++)
Milt ($80++)
FUKU FINE FUGU KAISEKI RESTAURANT
14 Mohamed Sultan Road #01-01 Singapore 238963 TEL: +65 6235 8216 • SMS: +65 9671 0560 E-mail: dreamdining@gmail.com www.fugu-fuku.com Opening Hours: Monday-Sunday 18:00-23:00
Fugu Fin Sake ($25++)
flavours
Tea TEXT DENISE LI
TIME FOR
The terms “matcha” and “sencha” are used interchangeably, but they are actually two very different variants of green tea. And just how did the Japanese tea ceremony evolve? Find out everything you wanted to know about green tea, right here!
T
he first written account of green tea in Japan dates back to the ninth century, when Japanese monks who travelled to China brought the tea back with them. Tea was believed to have a whole slew of medicinal properties and, as it was an expensive and rare commodity at the time, was drunk only by monks and the nobility. In the twelfth century, a monk by the name of Myoan Eisai travelled to China to study philosophy and religion, and he founded Zen Buddhism, The Rinzai School, when he returned to Japan. He is credited as being the first person ever to cultivate tea for religious purposes, as opposed to medicinal use only. Eisai was also responsible for coming up with the method of grinding tea leaves before adding hot water. Song emperor Hui Tsung made reference to the use of a bamboo whisk to mix the tea. Together, these processes form the basis of the Japanese tea ceremony as we know it today. Eisai wrote the first treatise on tea in 1211. The treatise was called Kissa Yojoki, where he espoused the drink’s many health benefits. He believed green tea to be the cure for a
variety of disorders. Because of Eisai’s efforts, the popularity of green tea grew by leaps and bounds, and began to be cultivated outside of the Toganoo district in Kyoto where it first began. It was especially popular among the samurai class, who adopted Zen Buddhism and started practicing the ritual of the matcha tea ceremony. The tea ceremony developed as “transformative practice”, embodying and teaching ideals such as harmony, respect, purity and tranquility. The philosophy behind the tea ceremony is that each and every encounter should be cherished, for it can never be fully reproduced, and these principles are still cherished by the Japanese to this day. By the 16th century, tea drinking had spread to all levels of society in Japan. Today, Japanese green tea - 70 percent of which is produced in Shizuoka (pg 16) - is an immensely popular drink that is consumed all around the world, and is well-loved not just for its flavour, but also its multiple health benefits. Rich in catechins, vitamins and minerals, it’s been touted to help lower blood pressure, prevent tooth decay, and even help with weight loss. Talk about a good reason to say cheers to good health!
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F Sencha
ully grown in the sun, sencha is the most common variety of green tea, making up between 70 to 90 percent of Japan’s production of green tea. Sencha tea leaves usually picked early in the season; between late February to early May. There are many grades of sencha, and the taste, quality and price can vary greatly. A few factors – quality of the raw tea leaves, location of the plantation, and how long the tea leaves has been steamed for – determine the final taste of sencha. Of these, the amount of time spent steaming tea leaves is probably the most important aspect that affects the final taste of the brewed green tea. Sencha that has been steamed for a short amount of time – around 30 seconds - is known as asa-mushi sencha. In general, this produces tea with course leaves and a yellow-green colour when it’s brewed, and a fragrant but subtle, grassy flavour. Higher grade tea leaves are usually used for this process. Fuka-mushi sencha, on the other hand, is sencha that is steamed for a longer period of time; anywhere from 45 seconds to two minutes. It has more broken leaves and produces tea with a deep green colour. Compared to asa-mushi sencha, fuka-mushi sencha has a stronger taste, and is less astringent but also has a little less fragrance. A benefit that fuka-mushi sencha has over asa-mushi sencha is the fact that it retains a high nutritional content as some of the powder dissolves into the tea when it’s brewed. Brewing a cup of fuka-mushi sencha differs slightly from asa-mushi sencha. The water temperature used for brewing the former should be around 70 degrees Celsius and latter, between 80 to 90 degrees Celsius. The ideal steeping time for fuka-mushi sencha is about two minutes, compared to asa-mushi sencha’s one minute.
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T i m e f o r Te a
O
f all the varieties of Japanese green tea, perhaps the most highly prized of them all is matcha, little wonder that it’s the type of tea that’s used in the traditional Japanese tea ceremony. Matcha tea plants are grown in the shade for about 20 days before harvesting to encourage the production of theanine, an amino acid that gives the tea its umami. After harvesting, matcha tea leaves are steamed, dried in the shade (rather than being rolled out) and ground down into a powder using a stone mill after being de-stemmed and de-veined. It is completely dissolved into water when it’s brewed and is considered to be the variant with the most health benefits for this reason: It allows you to fully ingest all the nutrients and antioxidants present in the tea. Matcha is usually prepared in two ways: Usucha and Koicha. Usucha is also known as “thin tea” and is commonly served in comonly served in Japanese restaurants and cafes. Koicha, on the other hand, is made with a lot less water and twice the amount of matcha for a thicker texture. Both usucha and koicha are mixed with a bamboo whisk to break up clumps in the mixture. Koicha is usually made with matcha from older tea plants for a milder and sweeter taste than usucha. You can also expect a far deeper flavour that you definitely would not get with coarser grades of tea. Because of the intense flavour of matcha, it’s now a popular ingredient in ice cream, sweets, and even cocktails. For those on the lookout for a healthier alternative to coffee, matcha is a good option. The combination of theanine and caffeine gives the drinker an energy boost, sans the jitters and unpleasant “caffeine crash” you get with coffee.
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T i m e f o r Te a
I
f you’re particularly sensitive to caffeine, hojicha should be your pick out of all the green tea variants available. It differs from sencha and matcha in that it is roasted after being harvested, rather than steamed. This roasting process lowers the amount of caffeine present in the tea. Because of this, hojicha is suitable for children and the elderly, or as a comforting drink before bedtime. Hojicha – which has its roots in the 1920s when tea merchants began roasting leaves over charcoal – is usually made from bancha, or tea from the last harvest of the season. When brewed, hojicha infusions have a light to reddish brown appearance. Because it is roasted, much of the grassy flavour of the tea disappears and is instead replaced with a toasted, nutty, caramel-like flavour. To allow the bold flavour of the hojicha to emerge, you’re recommended to brew it using boiling water (as compared to other varieties of green tea that call for lower temperatures of about 80 degrees Celsius). As hojicha is a lot less bitter than matcha and sencha, it makes a great accompaniment to a wide variety of food.
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Dine in a Japanese friend’s home in Singapore
The chance to dine in a Japanese friend’s home - with unpretentious home-cooked Japanese food, is a gift to this city. The space is intimate and the cheerful staffs seem to know their regulars. The cafe has certainly been designed for diners to comfortably hang out and what you are served is what you truly get in a Japanese home. Savor the lovingly-prepared food and be ready to be touched by the warmth and sincerity that this cafe has to offer. And if you want to re-create this experience at your own home, the inexpensive ingredients exclusively from Japan are at the cafe’s concept store for you to pick up.
Pick up Shizuoka in IPPIN
Shizuoka prefecture is home to Japan’s highest peak - Mt. Fuji, as well as a treasure house to produce the most incredible variety of foodstuffs ranging from teas to wasabi. Don’t have time to travel to Shizuoka? Pop by Mohamed Sultan Road, where the unasumming IPPIN CAFE BAR can easily be your favourite place to sit and linger over the gems of Shizuoka prefecture
Kameya Food Wasabi
Think you’ve been eating wasabi all the time? Chances are, you’ve never quite tasted the real deal, or at least not very often. Surprised? This is because most of the wasabi served outside Japan is made of a mixture of horseradish, mustard and food colouring. Even in Japan, this is a hard to grow plant and highly in demand. If you’re wondering how real wasabi from Shizuoka prefecture tastes like, try the one at IPPIN CAFE BAR. It promises the best wasabi straight from the farm in Izu, Shizuoka prefecture, birthplace of wasabi, and which the farm specialises in only wasabi for 65 years. It should taste fresh and mild, rather than harsh-flavored ones commonly found. Taste the real deal at IPPIN CAFE BAR meals or buy them back: Kameya Food Wasabi Mayo (140g, $6), Kameya Salt Shake (80g, $9)
IPPIN CAFÉ BAR
Marumo Mori Japanese Tea
Be blown away by the green teas at IPPIN CAFE BAR, for they were handheld-picked from Umegashima, the highest tea garden in Japan, located in the mountains of Shizuoka prefecture. To make excellent quality green tea, the first step for a green tea producer is to procure unprocessed green tea. At Marumo Mori, the green teas are examined by two tea examiners, Mr Nobuki Mori, a 9th level tea examiner, who is the only tea examiner in Shizuoka prefecture, and Mr Teruaki Yatsu, a 7th level tea examiner who is a two time champion in the All Nippon Tea Tasting Competition. Sit back and enjoy the unmatched green tea flavours at IPPIN CAFE BAR or buy them back: Marumo Mori Genmaicha THE ONE (100g, $7)
18 #01-01 Mohamed Sultan Road Singapore 238967 TEL 67334794 Mon-Sat 11:00AM - 11:00PM
artistic
creation
Hamachi with organic beets, spiced yogurt, and sunflower seeds.
CHEF DAVID MYERS Los Angeles-based chef and restaurateur David Myers — who used to own LA hotspots Hinoki & the Bird and Comme Ça — has opened Adrift at Marina Bay Sands. While his cooking style is largely influenced by his time spent in California and Asia, it’s not fusion by any standards. Rather, it is a harmonious marriage of Californian chic and Japanese elegance.
ver since I was a little kid, I’ve been infatuated with Japan and some of my most memorable meals as a chef have been in Japan. The best sushi I’ve ever had was at Sushi Dokoro Shin in Tokyo; the ingredients were absolutely pristine and the sushi chef had an impeccable sense of style. A great deal of attention was paid to even the most minute details – for example, the sake at the restaurant are from small, boutique labels and are served in vintage decanters. Another memorable dining experience was at Hyotei in Kyoto. This 400-year-old restaurant seats diners in beautiful, individual bungalows where you get to enjoy the serenity of a nearby stream. The food looked and tasted very natural, almost as if it sprung up organically. This attention to detail and reverence for fresh, seasonal ingredients is what I love about the Japanese style of cooking, and also what I practise in my own cooking. For this dish, I’ve used top-quality seasonal ingredients like fresh beetroots and sunflower seeds from farmers’ markets in California. There’s also takuan (pickled daikon radish), topped with a bit of red chili - as a nod to Singaporeans’ love for spice. I’ve also given the dish a layer of richness with some locally sourced yogurt. Finally, the dish is finished with hamachi (Japanese amberjack) cured with coriander, lemongrass, ginger, and salt. This style of preparation was inspired by Japanese kobujime, which is the Japanese method of marinating white fish with kombu (kelp) for sashimi. I believe the mark of a chef’s genius is being able to take away as much as possible from a dish, leaving just the essence of the ingredients. When that happens, it’s pure poetry.”
Adrift is located at Marina Bay Sands Hotel Lobby Tower 2, Tel: 6688 5657
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TEXT VANESSA TAI PHOTOGRAPHY RAYMOND TOH/VINEYARD PRODUCTION
on a Plate “E
Admission is
Come join us on 4th July 2015, 12:00-14:00
FREE!!
JAPAN SANRIKU Marine products Seminar
Street
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Nehsons Bldg
Peck
Seah
Tras St reet Wallic h
Street
New Wallich Street
Clermont Tower & Residence
Clermont Hotel
Tanjong Pagar MRT EW15
Link
Carlton City Hotel
International Plaza
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Twenty Anson
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VENUE
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Orchid Hotel
Tras Street
NTUC Fair Price
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Tanjong Pagar Plaza
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Kanda Wadatsumi
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Coho salmon, sea eel, sea squirts
Cook
NMD Bldg
Air View Bldg
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MIYAGI prefecture:
Amoy street Food Centre
Call (65) 6221 6264 to RSVP we
IWATE prefecture:
Ishikage shellfish, seaweed, sea urchin
URA Bldg
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Taste the Seasonal marine products from IWATE and MIYAGI prefecture
35 pax only!!
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Tanjon
Report from Production site in IWATE and MIYAGI prefecture
Limited to
JF KANDA WADATSUMI 50 Tras Street, Singapore 078989 (65) 6221 6264 http://www.kanda-wadatsumi.sg/en/ Nearest MRT: Tanjong Pagar Station Amara Hotel
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SANRIKU Fair is held In JF KANDA WADATSUMI from 4th July until 25th July
Choon Guan
Stree
feature
TEXT TAN LILI PHOTOGRAPHY NORIO NAGATA, YOKO FUJIMOTO & TETSUYA ONODA
Feast On
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W
SHIZUOKA
hen you’re wedged between Japan’s highest mountain and deepest bay, there is no doubt you are standing in the presence of gastronomical greatness. Welcome to Shizuoka prefecture, home to the magnificent and ever-elusive Mount Fuji, and the abundantly stocked Suruga Bay on the Pacific coast of Honshu. Shizuoka prefecture is divided into four parts: Central Area, Izu Area, Fuji Area, and Western Area. The bulk of what you’re about to read focuses on the Central Area, in which the prefecture’s capital Shizuoka City is situated. This historically
rich city, which dates back to the Nara period (710 – 794), offers amazing views of Mount Fuji – if you’re lucky to witness her glorious beauty, that is! Apart from its aforementioned prime location, the city is also blessed with a warm climate, making Shizuoka an incredible environment coveted by producers from not only Japan but also around the world. From the seasonal sakura shrimp, skipjack and green tea to year-round wasabi and musk melon, Shizuoka is truly the master producer of exceptional ingredients. In fact, it is responsible for 439 top-quality agricultural and marine produce – a quantity that’s
among the highest in the country. Truth be told, it is almost impossible to put into words the stirringly profound relationship between Shizuoka producers and chefs. Which is why there’s no one better than the world-acclaimed Chef Tetsuya Wakuda – Shizuoka produce ambassador, and head chef of Waku Ghin in Singapore and Tetsuya’s in Sydney, Australia – to take us on an exclusive culinary journey through the bountiful land to uncover some of the finest, most extraordinary ingredients that are found in no other. So, are you ready to join Chef Wakuda on an epicurean adventure?
静岡 Mt.Fuji
Lake Hamana
Mt.Fuji Shizuoka Airport
Shizuoka
Izu
Yaizu Hamamatsu
Omaezaki 17
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Chef
Meet The
Having been receiving a deluge of awards for his eponymous restaurant Tetsuya’s since 1992, including the top five spots in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for three consecutive years from 2005 to 2007, Chef Tetsuya Wakuda is clearly a name that needs no introduction in the global culinary scene.
What prompted you to explore ingredients from Shizuoka when you started Waku Ghin? Making up 80 percent of the menu, seafood is the key ingredient at Waku Ghin. As such, we have to source for the finest marine produce from around the world. About three years ago, when I was in Shizuoka, I met Yuko Unno. Having been in the business of Shizuoka tourism for around 20 years, she knows exactly who the best local producers and suppliers are, and she’s done a terrific job
linking me up with them ever since. One of the suppliers I met through Yuko-san is Naoki Maeda, who runs a seafood wholesaler as well as a family retail business. I have never met anyone like him – Maeda’s painstaking attention to detail and unwavering commitment to his craft makes him one of a kind. He practices ikejime, which is a meticulous and humane method of destroying the fish’s nervous system so as to maintain its quality and enhance its umami flavour. What’s your fondest memory of Shizuoka? When I was young, I used to go fishing for gobies, bring them home, and fry them tempura-style! Those childhood fishing memories are pretty special to me.
AMADAI with Maitake and Mitsuba
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When is the best time of the year to visit Shizuoka? Springtime, because it is when shirasu (whitebait) is in season – and I absolutely love shirasu!
PHOTOGRAPHY RAYMOND TOH / VINYARD PRODUCTION
Born and raised in Hamamatsu, Shizuoka, Chef Wakuda moved to Australia at the young age of 22, bringing with him a taste of Japan to Sydney where he would later open the world-famous FrancoJapanese restaurant in 1989. However, it was only when he launched Waku Ghin in Singapore in 2010 that Chef Wakuda started to truly explore and incorporate ingredients from Shizuoka into his cooking – an opportunity that is made possible thanks to Yuko Unno, CEO of Shizuoka Concierge, who has been tirelessly introducing Chef Wakuda to Shizuoka’s finest producers, serving as the vital link between the two. Before we delve further into the highly revered ingredients, read on for our interview with Chef Wakuda to kick things off.
Why would you recommend Shizuoka as a destination for tourists? You will certainly have a multi-sensory experience – you get to see the allure of Mount Fuji; hear the soothing sounds of the mountain stream; smell the incredibly fresh air; feel the passion and dedication the locals put into their food practices; and, of course, taste some of the finest ingredients. It’s funny because when I lived there, I didn’t put much thought into the splendour of Shizuoka. But now that I’ve travelled around the world, it feels like I am only beginning to rediscover its beauty in recent years.
“In the next few pages, you will meet some of the producers I work closely with, and find out why they are Shizuoka’s very best.”
Shizuoka
Food Producer
The Heart & Soul Of When Chef Tetsuya Wakuda sings high praises about a particular ingredient, it is evidently the real deal. But the relationship between Chef Wakuda, Yuko Unno, and the following suppliers extends above and beyond a mere business transaction; what they share is a connection so genuine and deeply rooted, you know it is built for life.
Maeda is truly a master who knows how and when to prepare a fish so its umami would be fully developed by the time it arrives on my table. Impeccable timing. Shizuoka should be positively proud of having Maeda.
Seafood Naoki Maeda, General Manager, Sasue Maeda Fish dealer Naoki Maeda is at the helm of Sasue Maeda, a 60-year-old family business that boasts two arms – supply top-quality seafood like Amadai (tilefish) and Hata (grouper) sourced from Suruga Bay to F&B outlets, and also sell them at their own retail shop. And going by Maeda’s strong work ethic, it’s easy to see why Sasue Maeda enjoys a constant stream of demand from established chefs and customers alike. For starters, the ability to tell the age and health of a fish based on its appearance
and the way it breathes and swims sounds either like a superpower or a phenomenal feat. Well, Maeda is no ordinary man. Such is his esoteric knowledge of seafood that the abovementioned skill has become second nature to him! Not one to compromise on quality, Maeda and his team work remarkably hard to maintain the standards of the marine produce they prepare from the moment the catch arrives at the fish port, right down to when it is delivered to the F&B outlets. Case in point: They store the produce only in seawater, which ensures the quality of the fish – colour,
texture, and flavour – stays consistent. Also, Maeda stresses that not all seafood is best served fresh; in order to optimally develop the umami in the meat, certain types of seafood have to be marinaded, while others have to be kept for hours or days before they are treated – once again, an intimate knowledge that examplifies Maeda’s dedication to his craft. When asked what fuels his drive, Maeda says, “The fishermen whom I get seafood from are my friends. They are away from their families for months on end, risking their lives every second they are at sea to bring back marine produce of the highest quality. That’s why I hate compromising – I would not be able to live with myself knowing I had let my friends down otherwise.”
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Aroma Melon Tomohisa Yamashita, Owner, Yamashita Melon Farm Branded under the name Aroma Melon, this coveted fruit is referred to as musk melon due to its intense musk-like bouquet. What sets the melons at Yamashita Melon Farm, Iwata city apart from the rest is the amount of dedication Tomohisa Yamashita (right) spends on the soil – using organic fertitiliser from Suzuki Farm (below), the melons boast a refreshingly juicy flesh, and are at once sweet and umami.
“Yamashita’s melon is not only wonderfully sweet, it also has a very unique, irresistible aroma. Simply amazing!” Yumesaki-Beef Masaki Suzuki, President, Suzuki Farm The moment we stepped into the ranch, the cows started inching towards us quietly, seemingly out of sheer curiousity. This peculiar behaviour can only translate to one thing – that the cows are relaxed around humans. Home to 750 Japanese black cows (or kuroge wagyu, the most prized wagyu) in Omaezaki city, Suzuki Farm takes exceptionally good care of its cattle to ensure the cows are living in a stress-free environment. Some examples, according to Masaki Suzuki: The ground is covered with a powdered mix of cedar wood and pine wood, which makes for great cushioning; the cows have easy access to a “salt cube”, which is made up of natural minerals and is said to improve their mental and physical health; and the ranch is installed with a cool mist spray, which cools the cows during summer. Suzuki’s careful rearing methods aimed at improving the well-being of the cows result in Yumesaki-beef, an A5-grade wagyu that is of the highest quality.
Green tea Nobuki Mori, President and CEO, Marumo Mori Can you recall the taste of certain teas you tried five years ago? Nobuki Mori can – and not surprisingly so. A 9th level tea examiner and the only certified tea appraiser in Shizuoka prefecture, Mori takes fierce pride in producing premier teas that cater to a wide range of consumer tastes. There are two powerful factors that contribute to his 138-year-old company Marumo Mori’s success: their expertise in sourcing quality leaves from all over Japan as well as blending flavourful teas; and their innovative use of technology and machines in the production of their teas. The gyokuro Mori specially prepares for Chef Wakuda is from a tea farm located in Asahina, Fujieda City. It is owned by a renowned gyokuro master called Mr Omura, who has received numerous awards for his exceptional tea. Gyokuro is considered the most precious and expensive among Japanese green tea. Named Hon-Gyokuro, the leaves are cultivated using an age-old method that involves shading the tea field with black plastic nets for 20 days before harvesting. This process is said to increase the levels of theanine, an amino acid that enhances the flavour of the tea.
“All thanks to his establishment of top-level production standards, Suzuki is able to deliver high quality wagyu.” 20
When I tried his gyokuro, it was love at first sip. Absolutely tasty.
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Food Producer
The wasabi I use at Waku Ghin is the result of Miyahara’s R&D efforts. It is extra large in size and only available in limited quantities. I am in awe of Miyahara’s unyielding dedication towards creating such a unique wasabi for me.
Unagi-imo
Wasabi Toshiho Miyahara, Owner, Miyahara Farm There may be a few hundred different types of wasabi, but Miyahara Farm specialises in producing only four – one of which is used by Chef Wakuda at Waku Ghin. Now the president of the 60-year-old Miyahara Farm, located in Utougi area, the oldest
wasabi valley. Miyahara shares that wasabi doesn’t grow particularly well under intense heat, hence they send the seeds to Hokkaido during summer to enable year-round harvest. Tip: Think wasabi only pairs well with sashimi? Miyahara will have you know that the Japanese horseradish goes amazingly well with wagyu beef!
Takuma Ito, Chairman, Unagi-imo Association What do you do when you live in a city whose specialty food is unagi (eel), and whose land is suitable for harvesting sweet potatoes? You combine the two together to create an original produce, of course! Started only three years ago in Hamamatsu city, Unagiimo is the brainchild of Takuma Ito, who began experimenting with growing sweet potatoes using leftover eel as part of the fertiliser in 2009. Despite being fairly new, Unagiimo has been working with a myriad maufacturers to produce a wide variety of delicious treats, and will even be collaborating with Nori (see pg 24) at Expo Milano 2015!
“Ever tried a sweet potato that is spectacularly sweet and whose texture is like silk? Neither have I - until I tried Unagiimo, that is!”
Sake Yoji Teraoka, President, Isojiman Premium Sake Brewery “Working in this brewery is like working in a refrigerator!” The head of Isojiman Brewery wasn’t joking – the first brewery to be fully walled with stainless steel, the temperature is constantly kept between 5°C – 6°C so as to maintain the quality of their sake. This is just one of the many features that propel Isojiman Brewery into its international status as a top sake producer. Founded in Yaizu City in 1830 and the recipient of numerous awards around the world – including the gold awards at The National New Sake Awards in Japan as well as the International Wine Challenge in London – every step of the sake brewing process at Isojiman Brewery is prepared with military precision. The koji-making stage, for instance, is 100-percent handmade inside a chamber built entirely out of pine wood; even though the omission of machines prolongs the koji preparation process, this painstaking method serves to markedly enhance the fragrance of the rice.
I’m glad the world recognises Isojiman Brewery for their perfectly balanced and unique sake of the highest quality. It is sensational. 21
A Lesson In
Humility
If there is just one thing contributing writer Tan Lili took away from her experience in Shizuoka, this would be it.
Before my trip to Shizuoka, I had the privilege of interviewing Chef Tetsuya Wakuda of Waku Ghin here in Singapore. While I could tell the absolute trust he places in Yuko Unno and her recommendations of Shizuoka’s finest producers, it was only during my trip that I got to truly understand the extraordinary depth of their relationship.
Touching Moments At Miyahara Farm, I got to experience digging up one wasabi stem. I had trouble balancing on the slippery soil that dry spring morning; imagine doing so in winter! A year and a half ago, Chef Wakuda had the honour of serving the late Lee Kuan Yew at Waku Ghin. Owner Toshiho Miyahara recalls Chef Wakuda ringing him up to order a fresh wasabi stem - at the time, it was untypically snowy in Shizuoka, and the top-quality stems are found at the top of the hills. But Miyahara readily agreed and trudged up the treacherously slippery hill to retrieve the finest wasabi stem he could find. Yoji Teraoka, President of Isojiman Premium Sake Brewery, shares the same tenacity. Exclusively for Waku Ghin, the brewery produces a sake called Junmai Daiginjo M (“M” stands for marriage), which is made using rice from a specific plot of land from Hyogo prefecture and is later stored in a one-of-a-kind freezer that keeps Junmai Daiginjo M in pristine condition.
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Chef Tetsuya Wakuda and Yuko Unno
As with any good relationship, the respect these producers have for Chef Wakuda is mutual. Concerned about their future, Chef Wakuda works hard to ensure their stories are heard, that their amazing produce are tried and tasted by the world.
The Heart Of The Ocean My most memorable encounter in Shizuoka was at Sasue Maeda, a fish supplier that exports seafood to Waku Ghin - the only restaurant in Singapore to do so. To our surprise, Chef Wakuda had owner Naoki Maeda prepare a treat for us - a slab of the highly coveted otoro (tuna belly). The immaculate manner with which Maeda sliced the otoro was mesmerising! He skilfully placed the sliced otoro on an exquisite dish alongside other wonderfully fresh sashimi. To be in the presence of such amazing dedication, and to be able to savour the works of Maeda, I felt immeasurably blessed that day. Later at night, we invited Maeda and Unno to join us for dinner by way of appreciation. It was then we found out Maeda
At Tempura Naruse
had specially driven out of town to loan the beautiful dish for us! Wanting us to experience the best of the best while we were in Shizuoka, Maeda told us about a nearby late-night tempura counter called Tempura Naruse. Truth be told, I was feeling a little worse for wear; all I wanted to do was to go back to our hotel and sleep. But I’m glad I didn’t. Chef Takeo Shimura, who opened the restaurant seven years ago, recounted how Chef Wakuda instantly became a tempura convert the moment he tried Chef Shimura’s creations and it’s easy to see why. Using a special combination of oil that adds an umami flavour to the tempura dishes, Chef Shimura’s creations were absolutely divine! From the conversations I had with the producers, I had no doubt they are wholly committed to supplying only the best to Chef Wakuda. But it was through the above unspoken moments that I actually felt their sincerity. Instead of hurrying through life, I have since learned to slow down and count my blessings. I’m a very lucky girl, indeed.
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Shizuoka’s Famed Produce Apart from the amazing ingredients that are specially flown to Singapore for Chef Tetsuya Wakuda, Shizuoka has a whole slew of other homegrown produce that’s won over the global palate.
Bamboo Shoots Mention ramen, and most people would point to the illustrious Menya Musashi in Tokyo. But did you know the tasty braised bamboo shoots used at this popular ramen joint hail from Asahina, a mountainous area near Shizuoka city? Owned and managed by an amicable couple, Asahina Takenoko is the biggest producer of bamboo shoots in Shizuoka. Their secret? The red clay found in the mountains contains little bacteria and just the right amount of water, which makes for a pure environment for cultivating large, sweet bamboo shoots.
Musk Melons Musk melons are coined Japan’s “king of fruit” for a reason. At Crown Melon, which produces 340,000 boxes of six musk melons per year, the melons are housed in a controlled environment, with each vine retaining only one melon - the rest are stripped away so all the nutrients go to that lucky fruit. The result: Cream-coloured, nearly translucent flesh that oozes with juice and sweetness unlike any melon you’ve tried.
Amela Tomato These tomatoes from San Farmers are no ordinary tomatoes. Grown in imported soil that contains coir (fibre extracted from the husk of coconut) from Sri Lanka, these are known as Amela tomatoes - a unique type of tomatoes produced in Shizuoka. Amela tomatoes boast an umami taste as well as natural sweetness - said to be sweeter than strawberries! - that supercede their sourness without cloying your taste buds. Despite their sugar content, Amela tomatoes are rich in potassium and vitamin A, among other minerals, to provide plenty of nutritional benefits.
Sakura Ebi During spring and autumn in Japan, you’d be hardpressed not to spot this pretty pink seasonal ingredient: Sakura ebi, or cherry shrimp. There are only two ports in the country that hauls Sakura ebi, one of which is Yui Port, Shizuoka. Sourced from Suruga Bay, Sakura ebi can be eaten in three ways: fresh, boiled, or sun-dried. In fact, the fish association behind Yui Port runs a restaurant near the port, serving up mouthwatering Sakura ebi dishes such as kakiage tenpura that are sold out within hours!
Skipjack (bonito)
Quick-frozen skipjack arrived at Yaizu port
Love those “dancing” bonito flakes, or katsuobushi? Meet its original form skipjack. Yaizu Fisheries Cooperative Association in Shizuoka brings in the largest haul of skipjack in Japan, carrying about 200-300 pounds of skipjack from the South Pacific per fishing trip. There are typically two types of fishing methods employed by the port: a very traditional method of fishing one skipjack at a time, whose catch is served fresh; and using a fishing net, whose catch is usually reserved for processed skipjack produce, such as canned skipjack or bonito flakes.
Katsuobushi (Bonito flakes) Scan for OISHIITV!
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Where Past &Present Collide
In keeping with the historical richness of Shizuoka, the types of food served in restaurants tend to lean heavily towards time-honoured culinary traditions. Yet, you’ll also find a surprise or two tucked away in unlikely corners, lending the city a breath of fresh air. Taigetsurou Located along Tokaido Road in Shizuoka is a tiny and former lodging town called Mariko, where travellers used to rest overnight during the Edo period. Taigetsurou is a restaurant that was restored in 1980 by owner chef Akio Yagi. He specialises in a unique dish called Tororo Jiru (grated yam blended with miso soup, poured over a mix of rice and barley). A favourite among the locals, it’s got an acquired taste and interesting texture that makes it a must-try for all.
The Terrace at Nippondaira Hotel
Nori Residing in a stunning cobalt blue two-storey house is Nori, owned by chef Fuminori Nishitani, a contemporary restaurant that used to serve up purely Italian cuisine but now focuses on fusion food prepared using the freshest Shizuoka produce. A must-try is the Asahina Bamboo Fettuccine, which features marinated bamboo shoots from Asahina Takenoko as its star ingredient.
Seems like fusion cuisine is catching on in Shizuoka - bringing with him years of French culinary expertise to Nippondaira Hotel, Executive Chef Hiroshi Haraguchi, who’s worked in Michelin three-star restaurants in France and started his own Michelin one-star restaurant in Tokyo, whips up tantalising French fare using fresh Shizuoka produce. While you’re there, don’t forget to take in the gorgeous sights of Mount Fuji and Suruga Bay through the hotel’s several observation points.
Suehiro Zushi Of course, what is authentic Japanese cuisine without sushi? When he isn’t busy serving VIPs, you can count on acclaimed sushi master Chef Eiji Mochizuki of Suehiro Zushi to put together an exquisite omakase-style meal using only the best ingredients - even if this means he has to source from far-flung places outside Japan. His tuna, for instance, is from Cape Town, South Africa! Chef Eiji’s favourite Shizuoka produce are wasabi (he uses wasabi from Miyahara Farm) as well as the seasonal aji (horse mackerel) and sakura ebi, the latter of which the chef deep-fries individually before serving them in a handroll.
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Ai-chan Oden Another uniquely Shizuoka dish is Oden, a popular Japanese winter dish that comprises a variety of ingredients (daikon, hard boiled eggs, or processed fish cakes, tofu, potatoes, braised beef, etc.) stewed in flavourful dashi broth. Unlike Oden served in other parts of Japan, the ones in Shizuoka feature skewered ingredients, including kurohanpen (dark fish cake), a dark-coloured broth, and are eaten with a mix of powdered anchovies and seaweed. The best place to enjoy Oden is undoubtedly at Aoba Koen Oden Alley, which is home to numerous Oden eateries on both flanks. With the ceiling dotted with pretty sakura flowers and the alley lined with red lamps. We’re certain each tiny eatery serves great Oden, but according to a regular customer, Ai-chan boasts the most delicious Oden of the lot. We checked it out and were definitely not disappointed! Plus, we had fun chatting with the affable owner, who has a special way of making customers feel right at home.
Tempura Sugimura
Patisserie Zoree There is a French-inspired outlet that lies not far down the Nihondaira Plateau on which Nippondaira Hotel is located. Called Patisserie Zoree, the 44-year-old cafe is artistically decorated with some of owner Mari Yokozawa’s favourite things - from colourful fresh roses to whimsical paintings. Psst … If you love cakes, you will be absolutely spoilt for choice with the delectable selection here!
Tempura restaurants are few and far between in Shizuoka; Tempura Sugimura is one of them. Like preparing sushi, making good tempura requires a certain technique that only seasoned chefs would know. Due to the variations of density, different ingredients are deep-fried at different temperatures, which is why kakiage-style tempura - which consists of a mix of ingredients - is often the hardest to prepare.
Chagama Chef Tetsuya Wakuda’s green tea of choice, Marumo Mori, recently expanded into retail in 2014 - a testament to their commitment to moving with the times. Located in a newly established lifestyle concept building in central Shizuoka city, Chagama was set up to draw the younger crowd and at the same time allow Marumo Mori to gather information on changing consumer tastes and preferences. To date, it is such a rare cafe in the world to use an espresso machine to brew tea! At the retail store, you will be able to find a wide selection of green tea souvenirs you can purchase for discerning tea lovers.
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Sights
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A Historical Backdrop
The blend of Japanese culture, traditional arts, and contemporary influences gives Shizuoka a multifaceted identity that is at once unique and mesmerising. Kunouzan Toshogu
EN R AF TSM ILLED C K S Hidetada F a O TH ), Tokugaw , u g o THE BIR sh o ent Tokyo T Edo (anci unouzan K m d o il fr u , s b d To d carver complete veral woo er it was ho invited se behind aft ed aftsmen w ay cr st hom of skilled n io at most of w e er gen - one of th ed into a ic models and evolv ver y ting plast ea a today. E cr k o in fine Shizu specialise e d at ir th fa ustries biggest major ind Show, the s ka Hobby o u s, attract iz h ay S d year, ns three a sp at m th o ka eople fr in Shizuo 00,000 p d! f nearly 3 o d w o cr th a f e worl er parts o th o d n a Japan
Despite Shizuoka’s long history that dates back to the Nara period (710 - 794), it was during the early 1600s when Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu decided to make Sunpu Castle in Shizuoka city his retirement home that the area started to prosper. Said to build the solid foundation on which modern Japan is based, Lord Ieyasu was a highly respected political leader who founded the legendary Tokugawa Shogunate, a feudal military establishment that ruled Japan from 1603 until the Meiji Restoration in 1868. Before he died in April 1616, Lord Ieyasu requested to be buried in Kunouzan, an ancient temple built in the 9th century. As a symbol of utmost respect to Lord Ieyasu, the Kunouzan Toshogu - a Shinto shrine in which Lord Ieyasu is enshrined with the name Tosho Daigongen - was built by Tokugawa Hidetada, the second shogun. Today, visitors can also check out the Museum of Kunouzan Toshogu outside the shrine, which showcases the personal belongings of shoguns through the ages.
Ocha no Sato, The Tea Museum In Japan, tea - particulary green tea - is synonymous with harmony, respect, and serenity. Nearly 70 percent of green tea consumed in Japan is produced in Shizuoka, 40 percent of which is sourced from within the prefecture. At Ocha no Sato, you will be able to learn more about the history of tea and even experience the significant Japanese tea ceremony. The museum is divided into several sections, including an interesting exhibit of tea rooms from around the world. You can also take a stroll at the garden and check out the tea ceremony house - both of which are reconstructions of the architectural works of renowned tea master, Enshu Kobori - for an otherworldly experience that evokes a lasting sense of peace. GREEN BITES Once you’ve had a tour around the Tea Museum, don’t miss the last stop: trying out the myriad yummy green tea-flavoured drinks and desserts! They include soft-serve ice cream and the popular Japanese fish-shaped pancake known as taiyaki filled with red bean paste.
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Souvenir
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From Shizuoka to Singapore As a treasure trove of world-class produce, it would be challenging not to bring home a luggage filled with Shizuoka’s amazing treats! Kuroyakko
Fuji No Sui, Green Tea Bags Specialising in gyokuro (the highest grade of green tea) and sencha, Homme Asakichi Shoten, founded in 1868, has amassed a bevy of awards for their meticulously blended teas.
Mikkabi Mikan Drop
Shimizuya created traditional sweet that has its origins in the Edo period over 400 years ago. Developed from that, Kuroyakko is essentially made up of red bean paste covered in yokan (below) with kombu, and goes perfectly with a cup of hot green tea.
We see candy tins nearly everywhere in Japan, but what makes this special is that the sweets are flavoured with mikan, one of the sweetest species of seedless tangerine oranges found in Mikkabi, Shizuoka.
Green Tea Yokan Yokan is a popular Japanese sweet made using red azuki beans. Miura Seika’s green tea yokan is packaged in adorable miniature loose tea cylinders. These are kneaded with Kawane-cha, a type of sencha produced in a town called Kawane in Shizuoka that gives the sweetened jellied paste a unique hint of bitterness.
Bari Katsuo-Kun Green tea yokan with a chestnut
Satsumaimo Milk from Unagiimo One of the specialty products from Unagiimo, these pockets of sweet gold are quite simply a must-try for one and all. Don’t worry; most of the wonderful sweetness you taste from this dessert is natural - because unagi contains certain minerals, the resulting sweet potatoes harvested at Unagiimo are not only sweeter but also more nutritious!
SEALUCK’s packet of sweet bonito flakes with peanuts is the recipient of the gold award at the Shizuoka Prefecture Selection of New Products. This Shizuoka specialty snack is a hit among the young and old. Choose from three flavours: ginger soy sauce, chilli soy sauce, and wasabi mayonnaise.
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Listings
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Dining / Food Kaiseki-ryouri Taigetsu rou 3305, Mariko, Suruga-ku Shizuoka-city, Shizuoka, 421-0103 Tel: 054-259-0181
NORI 864-3, Tokigaya, Fujieda-city, Shizuoka, 426-0204 Tel: 054-641-4778 SuehiroZushi 2-5-28 Shimizu-Ward Ejirihigashi Shizuoka-city, Shizuoka, 430-0926 Tel: 054-366-6083
Chagama Passage Takajho 1F, 2-10-7, Takajo, Aoi-ku Shizuoka-city, Shizuoka, 420-0839 Tel: 054-260-4775 Visit Kunouzan Toshogu 390, Negoya, Suruga-ku Shizuokacity, Shizuoka, 422-8011 Tel: 054-237-2438 Ocha-no-sato (The Tea Museum) 3053-2, Kanayafujimicho, Shimada-city, Shizuoka, 428-0034 Tel: 0547-46-5588
Shopping Fuji No Sui/Kuroyakko/ Mikkabi Mikan Drop/ Bari Katsuo-Kun/ Green Tea Yokan Mt.Fuji Shizuoka Airport 3336-4, Sakaguchi, Makinohara-city, Shizuoka, 421-0411 Tel: 0548-29-2003 Or major souvenir shops
Special Thanks:
Satsumaimo milk Unagiimo Enshu Imoyoshi 66-9, Yasumatsucho, Minami-ku Hamamatsu-city, Shizuoka, 435-0034 Tel:053-464-5234 Masaki Yokoyama (right) Hiromi Kanasashi (left) Shizuoka Prefectural Government Marketing Promotion Division, Economy and Industry Department http://www.shizuoka-guide.com/ english/index.html
The Terrace, Nippondaira Hotel 1500-2,Mabase, Shimizu-ku, Shizuoka-city, Shizuoka, 424-0875 Tel: 054-335-1131 Ai-chan Oden 2-3-6 Aoba Oden Alley, Tokiwacho, Aoi-ku, Shizuoka-city, Shizuoka, 420-0034 Tel: 054-252-3358 Patisserie Zoree 2-2-13, Kasuga, Shimizu-ku Shizuoka-city, Shizuoka, 424-0842 Tel: 054-352-4446 Tempra Sugimura 1-21 Outecity Bld., B1 Outemachi, Aoi-ku Shizuoka-city, Shizuoka, 420-0853 Tel: 054-273-8900
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Yuko Unno Shizuoka Concierge Co., Ltd www.shizuoka-concierge.com
Ladies in traditional tea-picking attire
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Grand opening on the same day! GINZA KUROSON KOBEBEEF TEPPANYAKI YOSHIDA Patties & Wiches
Fresh fish air flown 3 times a week from Japan. KOBE BEEF Designated Registration Store (No.654). Very Rare in Singapore.
Enjoy high quality Hamburger and Sandwich in the whole new concept atmosphere.
銀座 黒 尊 GINZA KUROSON 30 Robertson Quay #01-10/11 Riverside View S238251 TEL (65) 6737 5547 LUNCH 11:30～14:00 DINNER 18:00～23:00（L.O. 22:00）
寿 司 海神 SUSHI KAISHIN 30 Robertson Quay #01-04 Riverside Village Residences S238251 TEL (65) 6733 3720 LUNCH 11:30 ～ 15:00(L.O.14:00) DINNER 18:00 ～ 23:00(L.O.22:00)
漁師寿司
活けいけ丸 RYOSHI SUSHI IKEIKEMARU
<Liang Court> 177 River Valley Road #B1-48 Liang Court S179030 TEL (65) 6337 1022 11:00～22:30（L.O. 22:00） <Westgate> 3 Gateway Drive #03-05 Westgate S608532 TEL (65) 6369 9488 11:00～22:00（L.O. 21:30）
masters
TEXT DEBORAH TAN PHOTOGRAPHY RAYMOND TOH/VINEYARD PRODUCTION
It’s a quick and easy, yet healthy, way to get a balanced meal when you have little time to spare. We look at three types of rice bowls that are well-loved by Singaporeans and Japanese alike.
DSpeak ON D
on, a shortened name for Donburi, generally means “bowl” and refers to a bowl of cooked rice with some ingredients served on top. From broiled eels coated in a thick, slightly sweet sauce to deep fried pork cutlets, from pieces of raw fish to an assortment of tempura, the don is as versatile as it is popular.
A Complete Meal Said to be invented in the late 1800s as a dish people could easily eat while attending the theatre, the donburi was an easy-to-prepare and tasty meal people took well too. It is also believed that the donburi was invented as a way to quickly feed craftsmen during the Edo period. As many of them were short tempered and tight with their money, restaurants came up with a way to serve up cheap meals in a large pot so this class of patrons could be satisfied. Donburi is typically served in a large bowl so as to accommodate the toppings. You would never see plain rice served in a donburi bowl in restaurants as that would make
32
the diner appear quite gluttonish. There are a myriad of ways to enjoy a donburi because of the variety of toppings you can have. Toppings vary by region, town, and season. Given its convenience and nutritiousness, it’s no surprise that donburi chains are a common sight in Japan. A donburi chain that you are probably most familiar with? Yoshinoya – Japan’s one of the oldest and largest beef bowl restaurant chains.
From Budget To Blowout Although created initially as a cheap meal, the donburi can also be quite a pricey dish to tuck into. Depending on the quality of the ingredients used, prices can vary from less than $10 for a beef bowl to more than $70 for an unagi (eel) don. Some restaurants are also attempting to impress customers with gourmet toppings such as wagyu beef, kurobuta pork, and foie gras. In the following pages, we look at three of the most popular ways to enjoy a donburi. Warning: Do not proceed on an empty stomach.
Don Speak
I
ts Tokyo flagship is a Michelin-starred restaurant with its history going all the way back to 1851. Famed for its unagi don, Chikuyotei is the only restaurant in Singapore that freshly slaughters live eels from Japan upon order. On the average, the restaurant serves about 10kg of eels daily.
Apparently the first donburi ever created was the unagi don. Tell us more about the history of the dish? I’m not certain how the unagi don was created. Chikuyotei, although one of the oldest restaurants to be known for unagi dons, did not create the dish either. What I can tell you is that different areas in Japan have their own ways of making the unagi don. Our style is known as “Edomae”, which means in the style of Edo. The eel is first grilled over charcoal fire, then it is steamed to retain its moistness. In the western parts of Japan, the eel is only grilled and not steamed while the Nagoya style uses a sweeter sauce.
Akihiro Maetomo Executive Chef, Chikuyotei
We’ve heard that eels are considered a type of health food. Well, they are rich in vitamin A. Traditionally, the unagi don is eaten in summer to give us stamina. Every year, there are specific days recognised as the “best” days to consume it which is called Doyo-no-ushi-no-hi. This year, the dates are 24th of July and 5th of August. Some years, there is just one day. The liver of the eel is even richer in vitamin A and at Chikuyotei, we serve it in the soup (kimosui) that comes with the unagi don. What makes Chikuyotei’s unagi don so good? We’re very insistent on the freshness of the unagi and that’s why we only clean the eel when a customer orders it. Fresh eels have a softer, more delicate texture. Using fresh eels is also a test of the unagi chef’s skills - the flesh breaks more easily and so the grilling has to be done carefully. As the dish is a donburi, we also place a lot of emphasis on the rice. We created a video for our staff to follow when it comes to preparing the rice. It details how the rice should be washed and how to cook it right. Lastly, our sauce does not contain sugar. It is made only with mirin and soy sauce. What is the training involved in handling and cooking the eel? Handling fresh eels is really not that easy. You need to cut it well so that the customer can hardly feel the fine bones when he eats it. Then skewering the raw eel flesh is something that requires a lot of strength and precision - you need to put the bamboo skewer into the flesh in a straight line, otherwise when you grill it, the flesh becomes warped. For me, I took three years to master skewering eel flesh. Chikuyotei is located at InterContinental Singapore, #01-01, 80 Middle Road. Tel: 6825 1064
33
G
inza Kuroson at Robertson Quay imports fresh fish from ports all over Japan, with fish arriving at the restaurant every three days. The restaurant prides itself on the high quality of its ingredients and affordable prices. Lunchtime is a busy time at Ginza Kuroson where you’ll be able to find a wide variety of donburis including its bestseller nagekomi don (fisherman’s catch and throw don).
Raw fish on top of rice - what’s the difference between the nagekomi don and the chirashi don? Over here, our nagekomi don features slices of fish (sashimi), while our chirashi don uses cubes of raw fish. Is it true then that the raw fish used in donburis are not as fresh as fish you’d use in sashimi and sushi? That is not true. For us, we serve donburis at lunch so customers can get their orders faster. The donburi was created for that purpose of serving a customer a sumptuous, balanced meal in a convenient style. At Ginza Kuroson, our donburis are only available at lunch. Of course, if a customer still wants to order sushi, we will also make it for him. What makes a good nagekomi don? At our restaurant, we use at least ten different kinds of fish and seafood in our nagekomi don. As its name suggests, the abundance of fish used conveys the impression of a fisherman’s catch. The proportion of rice to seafood is also important. We use exactly 220g of rice in each order of nagekomi don. The rice we use here is imported Japanese Akita Komachi rice and we make sure each slice of fish is at least 0.5cm thick. How does Ginza Kuroson ensure it gets the freshest fish and seafood? We get our fish and seafood from 48 ports all over Japan. Before we place an order, we do a check on the weather at a particular port. If weather conditions are not ideal at that port, we don’t order from it. Stocks arrive every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday so we get a consistent supply of fresh fish and seafood. Is it possible to prepare your own nagekomi don at home? The donburi is a dish of convenience so it is also commonly prepared at home using toppings like beef, pork cutlets, etc. If a housewife wants to make something like a nagekomi don or a chirashi don, it is possible but the slicing of the fish may be a challenge. These days, however, you can buy ready cut slices of raw fish from supermarkets so yes, you can prepare your own nagekomi don at home. Ginza Kuroson is located at Riverside View, #01-10/11, 30 Robertson Quay. Tel: 6737 5547
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Yoshinori Oku
Assistant Master Chef, Ginza Kuroson Singapore
Don speak
B
utahage is the quick-serve restaurant of Hageten, an establishment from Obihiro, Hokkaido, famous for its grilled pork rice bowl – butadon. When pioneers first arrived in Tokachi (the subprefecture which Obihiro belongs) to open up the land, they brought with them four pigs, thus setting in motion a pig farming industry. Therefore, the butadon can be seen as the culinary representation of Tokachi’s developmental history.
Hitoshi Yano
Founder and chef, Butahage
Why is pork so well-loved in Hokkaido? In Meiji era, many pioneers went to Tokachi in the bid to make the area inhabitable. They brought with them cows, horses, and pigs. The cows provided milk while the horses were used as labour. The pigs were bred for food. The habit of eating pork is so entrenched in Hokkaido. For instance, in the Japanese dish sukiyaki, we usually use beef as the meat, but in Hokkaido it is very popular to use pork. What makes Butahage’s butadon so good? The butadon’s ingredients are really simple – rice, pork and sauce – but what is difficult is getting the right balance of each. My grandfather created the original sauce, and we make sure the taste remains the same to this day. We are very proud of our butadon and want to bring traditional Japanese food culture to Singapore, so we are careful not to localise the Butadon. If it is too localised, it loses its original taste. The simpler the dish, the more challenging it is to keep it consistent. Any challenges in finding the right ingredients for make the butadon in Singapore? Ideally, we would like to be able to import all our ingredients from Hokkaido. But so far, we are only able to import the rice. This is very challenging. Singapore’s water is also different. So we have to import the pork from US. Quality is very important to us – the first generation really insisted on it, even if profits were minimal. We are still trying to look for the best food to match our standards; the US pork is the best we can find right now, but we are not satisfied yet. Also, we will not be adjusting the flavour because we feel that once we start to change the flavour, we start to change who we really are and the real flavour will be lost over time. Butahage is located at Liang Court, #02-32/33, 177 River Valley Road. Tel: 6268 4821
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tools
aru Z
We weave through the rich history of this Japanese bamboo basket.
T
raditional utensils go a long way towards enhancing your enjoyment of varied cuisines, and Japanese fare is no exception. The zaru is one such tool – a woven bamboo basket used in the preparation and presentation of Japanese cuisine. This shallow tray is a familiar sight in kitchens across Japan, and most commonly functions as a colander or strainer that is used in cooking and rinsing, the harvesting of crops or as a dish to serve individual portions of noodles. Basket crafting in Japan serves a utilitarian function, with the products made being used well and often. The creation of this tool dates back to the Edo period (1603-1868), or the “age of craftsmen,” during which craftspeople (termed shokunin) worked with indigenous materials such as wood, clay and bamboo to create small hand-held wares. Today, there remain areas in Japan that steadfastly hold on to traditional ways of crafting bamboo. For instance, the famous Shino-bamboo craft from the historical town of Iwadeyama, Miyagi prefecture, first developed during the Edo period, and later grew to be a side job of local farmers in the agricultural off-season more than 300 years ago. The tradition lives on till today, as tourists from all over the world can buy Shino-bamboo crafts from Iwadeyama and learn Zaru weaving. Bamboo kitchen baskets come in a variety of shapes, sizes and weave patterns, based on the function the basket serves. The traditional zaru is typically weaved with horizontal bamboo strips (higo) being woven around vertical bamboo strips, with the outside of the bamboo becoming the
36
inside of the basket, and creating a smooth surface ideal for washing food. One of the more common uses of zaru you may encounter today is in zaru-soba, a cold noodle dish. Soba noodles made from buckwheat and wheat flour are cut thinly, boiled and eaten with a cold dip made from soy sauce and dashi stock. These flavorful ash brown noodles are topped with shreds of dried seaweed (nori) and served on a square or round zaru colander, giving the dish its name. Interestingly, the zaru’s use is not limited to just practical purposes. The annual summer Zaruyaburi festival in the Mie prefecture brings together 70 to 80 young men, competing in traditional loincloths, for possession of
a zaru basket. Held at the Ishiki and Yakumo shrines, this traditional ceremony dates back some 450 years, and legend has it that the man who wins control of this bamboo prize would be blessed with good luck and health during the year. Additionally, in fact, the zaru’s ability to strain and sieve liquids has been referenced in Japanese colloquial slang to describe a person who can consume large amounts of alcohol without being inebriated. The word is also used to describe a person who is careless and makes easy mistakes, with these mistakes being likened to water easily slipping through the holes in a zaru. Suffice to say, the significance of zaru in Japanese culture and cuisine would not be slipping through the cracks anytime soon.
TEXT SHARIFAH NURSYAFIQAH
Much Ado about
Food and Art
feature
Sweet, Sweet Success
Junichi Mitsubori
One could argue that Japanese food is an art form in itself, with chefs taking exceptional pride in food presentation. However, sweets artist Junichi Mitsubori elevates this art form by channeling his creativity into creating beautiful, edible wagashi (traditional Japanese confectionery).
“M
y interest in creating wagashi art started from a young age as my father used to be a wagashi maker. I also attended courses at a wagashi school but most of my techniques are acquired through trial and error. After I took over my father’s shop, I started to create more unique forms of wagashi art and this has been very popular with my customers.”
Life As A Wagashi Artist
Scissors Art: One kind of Nerikiri Art
TEXT VANESSA TAI
There are three types of wagashi that I create. First, there is nerikiri art, which is about the pursuit of simplicity. Nerikiri is a very traditional form of wagashi made of white bean paste and rice flour, which the Japanese typically consume during tea ceremonies. The second type of art I create is sweets art, which is about the pursuit of reality. This is where wagashi makers pit our skills against each other to create wagashi art that is as elaborate and as close to reality as possible. Third, there is the creation of art using other types of food [apart from desserts]. This came about after I won the first prize in a competition on a TV programme. From there, many people have been asking me to create different types of artwork using
Sweets Art: Junichi won the top prize on TV programme with this work
38
Nerikiri Art: Inspiration from hydrangea
different types of food.
My Favourite Artworks It’s hard to pick just one, but some of my favourites include a sculpture of a bird perched atop a plant. This earned me the top prize on another Japanese TV programme. Although I’m an artist, I also see myself as an entertainer so I look forward to seeing people’s reaction to my art. People are often surprised when they see my art; to them, it’s something beautiful and unique. Seeing the surprise on their faces always makes me very happy.
The Artistic Process My approach to art is uncomplicated and minimalist, and is very much influenced by Japanese sensibilities. When creating wagashi art, the challenge is to interpret the essence of an object so as to re-create it using raw ingredients. I usually try to incorporate simple but unique ingredients like yo-kan (sweet jellied adzuki bean paste) or uirou (sweet rice jelly) in my artwork so as to give people an appreciation of the different types of ingredients that can go into wagashi art. Find out more about Junichi Mitsubori and his work by visiting http://ancrw.jp/?page_id=65 (in Japanese and English)
Real food sweets art: He creates it with wagashi ingredients only
ISSUE 2 MCI(P)153/08/2013
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recipes
TEXT VANESSA TAI PHOTOGRAPHY FOODCREATIVEFACTORY RECIPES TRANSLATION YUICHI
Food consultant Go Igarashi and his wife, Yukari, are both food enthusiasts who eat, breathe, and live everything gourmet. They believe food goes beyond just function, and is an integral part of one’s lifestyle. In this third interview with Oishii, the duo introduces us to the pleasures of miso cheese.
From Mr & Mrs Igarashi’s Modern Kitchen:
Miso Cheese
“M
iso cheese started gaining popularity about four or five years ago when magazines and TV shows in Japan started featuring this ingredient. This is a very versatile ingredient that can be consumed in a variety of ways – you can stuff it into an onigiri (rice ball) to eat for breakfast, replace buffalo cheese with miso cheese in a caprese salad for lunch, or mix it in with pasta for dinner. So, how does it taste? Well, the fragrance from the miso is infused into the cheese, which creates a completely new type of umami flavour. As you know, the umami from miso is similar to that of kombu whereas the umami from cheese is more similar to that of bonito flakes. When combined, miso and cheese create a wonderfully unique umami flavour. In addition to its versatility as an ingredient, miso cheese is purported to have several health and beauty benefits. Some of these benefits include stimulating your metabolism, which helps promote health and weight loss efforts. It also helps activate the good bacteria in your stomach; the stablisation of your intestinal activity helps boost your overall immune system. The enzymes found in miso are great for helping digest protein, and because cheese is full of protein, these enzymes act as a booster to digest the protein. This is less stressful for your digestion system on a whole. In Japan, miso cheese is referred to as a ‘progressive digestive ingredient’. One thing to note, these enzymes get destroyed in temperatures above 48°Celsius, so miso cheese works best in cold or raw dishes. In the recipes you’ll find on the adjacent pages, we’ve selected dishes that are typically eaten during those hot Japanese summer months. Because people tend to lose their appetite due to the heat, we’ve incorporated sour-tasting ingredients such as umeboshi (pickled plums) and vinegar, which help stimulate appetite. We hope you enjoy!
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How To Prepare Miso Cheese
Ingredients:
Appropriate quantity of miso 40g cream cheese
This fascinating combination brings together two fermented foods, miso and cheese. Both miso and cheese have bold flavours, which are due to the inosinic acid in cheese and the glutamic acid in miso. Adding miso cheese as a topping or blending it into a sauce can elevate an ordinary meal into something much more delicious.
Directions:
1. Place miso in an airtight container and create a hollow where you can place the cheese. 2. Place cream cheese into the hollow and cover it with miso. Preserve it overnight in a refrigerator. Use within a week. * You may use camembert, mozzarella, and processed cheese in place of cream cheese.
Chilled Tofu with Miso Cheese Tomato Sauce
The rich flavours of the miso cheese are complemented by the refreshing flavours of tomato and parsley, making this dish a delight to eat. In addition, the citric acid in vinegar helps you recover from tiredness. The Japanese often use vinegar in their cooking to stave off exhaustion from the summer heat.
Ingredients: (Serves 2)
300g silken tofu 1 tomato 20g miso cheese A few sprigs of parsley 2 tsps of the miso used in the making of miso cheese 1/2 tbsp vinegar 1 tsp sesame oil
Directions: 1. Cut tomato and miso cheese in 1-cm dices. Chop parsley finely. 2. Place miso, vinegar, and sesame oil in a bowl and mix. Add tomato and miso cheese, then mix. 3. Place tofu on a plate. Pour the sauce and place the finely chopped parsley atop the tofu, and serve.
Potato Salad with Ume Miso Cheese
This potato salad comes with green onions and umeboshi and is a refreshing dish for the summer. The sour taste in umeboshi is great for stimulating a waning appetite. This dish is best accompanied with a bottle of chilled sake. Cooking potatoes over a low heat brings out their sweetness. Ingredients: (Serves 2) If you do not have 200g potato enough time, cook the 1 stalk green onion peeled potatoes in a 10g umeboshi microwave oven for 4 to 5 minutes at 20g miso cheese 600w, which helps 1 tbs mayonnaise you save time. 1 tsp vinegar
Tip!
1/2 tsp of the miso used in the making of miso cheese
Directions:
1. Place potatoes and plenty of water in a pan, then cook over high heat. When it boils, cook over a low heat for 25 to 30 minutes until the potatoes are thoroughly cooked. Chop the green onion and umeboshi finely. Cut miso cheese in 7-mm dices. 2. Peel the potatoes while they are still hot. Place them in a bowl and mash. Add mayonnaise, vinegar, and miso, then mix. 3. Add green onion, umeboshi, and miso cheese, then mix.
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Let’s Drink To This! advertorial
Although Doi Brewery was established about two centuries later than other sake breweries, it soon became well known for producing fine, award-winning sake. Kiyoaki Doi, president of Doi Brewery, explains how the company rose to prominence.
T
he family behind Doi Brewery came late to the sake brewing business, having only established the brewery in 1872, during the period of the Meiji Restoration. Many other sake breweries were founded much earlier, during the Edo period about two hundred years before. The Doi family was actually village headman and landlords who started experimenting with making sake using the rice that was given to them as tributes by their tenants. The Meiji period was actually a good time for us to enter the business of sake brewing, reveals Kiyoaki Doi, president of Doi Brewery. “Before that, you needed a special certificate to start brewing sake, which wasn’t always easy to get. It wasn’t as
42
strict during the Meiji era.” The kura – traditional Japanese storehouse – that houses the brewing facility was established in the 19th century, and it still stands today.
National and International Recognition Despite entering the industry later than the competition, Doi Brewery quickly gained a reputation for making high-quality sakes, and it has a string of accolades under its belt to show for it. When it was under the leadership of Kiyoaki Doi, he invited Shokichi Hase, a master sake brewer to join the brewery. Under Hase, who worked tirelessly for about 40 years until he passed away in 2009, the brewery grew from strength to strength, thanks to his knowledge about the art of brewing fine sake. In ten years, the brewery has won eight gold medals at the Annual Japan Sake Awards. Doi also credits Shizuoka’s climate and environmental factors for the exceptional raw materials that go into brewing fine sake. The water used is pure and soft, thanks to the prefecture’s rivers and mountains, while much of the sake rice that’s harvested for brewing the sake is the variant Homare Fuji that’s locally grown in Shizuoka. Doi also uses top-notch quality rice from Hyogo and Okayama prefecture. “Besides good rice and soft water, we also use sake yeast specially found in Shizuoka prefecture. This variant of Shizuoka yeast is
Kiyoaki Doi, president of Doi Brewery
responsible for the fresh taste of sake that’s not too dry,” reveals Doi. Because of their soft, subtle flavours, Doi’s advice is to pair their sakes with fish dishes. The brewery produces about 390 kilo-litres of sake a year. They mainly produce three labels: Kaiun (its main brand); Enshunada (that’s only available in Shizuoka prefecture); and Ohimachiya, a new label that uses rice from Yamanashi prefecture. Roughly about 60 percent of the sake is consumed in Shizuoka prefecture, while four to five percent is exported internationally to countries such as the US, Hong Kong, Russia, Australia, Thailand, and, of course, Singapore. While the brewery has the capacity to produce more, it has deliberately kept its output small so it can keep tabs on the quality and freshness of its brews. Doi is proud of the fact that sake as a whole has gained popularity around the world. “Sake has an umami that is simply not present in other types of alcohol,” he says, with a tinge of pride.
Shizuoka Specialties
Sample some of the finest sake from Shizuoka’s Doi Brewery right here at Orihara Shoten.
Alcohol 15% Medium taste (+5)
Alcohol 15.5% Medium taste (+4)
Alcohol 16.5% Medium taste (+5)
Kaiun Tokubetsu Junmai
Kaiun Iwaizake Tokubetsu Honjozo
Kaiun Tokusen Junmai Ginjo
Using soft water from the spring near Kotenjin Temple and Yamadanishiki rice grown in Daito, this sake starts off with hints of sweetness, as well as a soft and feminine mouthfeel. The middle palate is clean and refreshingly dry before ending with a vibrant finish.
As “Kaiun”means “to welcome luck” in Japanese and this sake is often bought as a gift to celebrate the New Year, weddings, and more. It’s brewed using Yamadanishiki rice polished to 60 percent – a polishing percentage that’s usually required for a ginjo-style sake. Fresh fruity notes, a crisp, dry taste, and refined flavour palate make this one of Kaiun’s bestsellers.
Alcohol 16% Medium taste (+4)
Alcohol 16% Medium taste (+8)
Kaiun Junmai Daiginjo
Kaiun Daiginjo
Brewed in a 700kg tank specially for daiginjo sake, this sake uses rice polished to 50 percent, which is quite exceptional for this category of sake. The result is a fine flavour and aroma, with sweet notes of melon. Smooth and feminine, this clear, fresh sake has a sweet, gentle and comforting fragrance.
Brewed using rice from Hyogo prefecture polished to 4o percent. This sake has a luscious fragrance of pear and apples, with a light and savoury mid-palate and just the right amount of acidity. Brewed at a low temperature with close to 17 percent alcohol, this sake has a very clean, fresh and tasty finish that lingers.
This sake has a crisp scent that invites the drinker to take in its aroma before drinking it. Well rounded, it offers a good balance of sweetness, dryness and acidity. With its fresh green notes, it’s best paired with dishes that don’t have an overpowering taste and smell.
Orihara Shoten also stocks season-limited Namazake (生酒) , a non-pasteurised fresh sake; and Genshu (原酒), an undiluted sake as part of its lineup.
Orihara Shoten is located at 11 Unity Street, #01-02 Robertson Walk. Tel: 6836 5710
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