Oishii#11 ebook

ISSUE 11 October-December 2016

MCI(P)019/08/2016

ZEST for LIFE Let these citrus fruit add a burst of freshness to your day

Fascinating

Why is this Japan’s happiest prefecture?

BAR NONE

Sake sommeliers share the best ways to enjoy this drink Chef Ivan Brehm

“Flavours are like threads in a tapestry”

CELEBRATE THE BEST OF AUTUMN with Kanpai and Hashigo!

TOMI SUSHI the taste of NIIGATA Hakkaisan special junmai sake, SMV±0, with overnight dried squid tempura

春

Sechubai Honjozoshu, SMV-3.5, with assortment of three different sliced raw tuna (otoro, chutoro, lean)

Kiminoi Akiagari, SMV+2, with grilled nodoguro, blackthroat

秋

SPRING

Magnificent cherry trees, SAKURA, and a historical castle, TAKADA-JOKA

AUTUMN

Rice country-Niigata...

The best rice, KOSHIHIKARI

夏

SUMMER

The blessings of the sea and abundant gift of nature

冬

WINTER

Beautiful snow country - Niigata...

Founded in Niigata in 1954 TOMI SUSHI was first opened in Niigata prefecture in 1954. The change of season is quite noticeable in NIIGATA, this climate helps in producing best-known brand rice KOSHIHIKARI and a lot of big-name SAKE. In addition, Niigata also has numerous varieties of marine products. In such a blessed region, we have been devoted ourselves to serve the best food in every season. We have traditional NIGIRIZUSHI, course meal and all kinds of side dishes. You can taste good SAKE from NIIGATA, too. It's our great pleasure to serve genuine Japanese food to the people in Singapore.

So you will be able to enjoy the most delicious food from NIIGATA!

Millenia 9 Raffles Boulevard #02-12/13 Millenia Walk S039596 Tel: 6238-1123 Opening Hours:11:30-15:00 (L.O.14:30) 17:30-22:00 (L.O.21:30) NOVENA 238 Thomson Road #02-76/77 Novena Square (VELOCITY) S307683 Tel: 6255-2355 Opening Hours:11:30-15:00 (L.O.14:30) 17:30-22:00 (L.O.21:30) KATONG 30 East Coast Road #02-14/15/16 KATONG V S428751 Tel: 6348-7897 Opening Hours:11:30-14:30 (L.O.14:00) 17:30-22:30 (L.O.22:00)

35 Cuppage Road Cuppage Terrace S229459 Tel: 6333-4633 Opening Hours:17:00-24:00 (L.O.23:30)

http://www.tomisushi.asia/

contents 44

02

The Bountiful Season Learn more about the unofficial national flower of

04

Japan – the chrysanthemum.

Food Intentions Chef Ivan Brehm of The Kitchen at Bacchanalia, who grew up in a Japanese neighbourhood in Brazil, reveals every chef’s ultimate goal.

05 08 11

The wagyu dish pictured on this cover of Oishii is specially prepared by Chef Ivan Brehm.

A Year of Good Food

16 34

Can’t-miss Japanese food events all over Asia.

A Sake Journey Join this Singaporean man on

Fascinating Fukui Find out why this is the

The Bar Necessities Three sake sommeliers share their insights on Japan’s most

42

popular brew.

Fields Of Artistic Gold These incredible paddy field art from Inakadate

sake evangelist.

are a painstaking labour of

Crazy About Citrus these three citrus fruit to your kitchen pantry.

34

happiest prefecture in Japan.

his journey from sake novice to

Have a zest for life? Add

04

dedication and love.

44

Bowled Over After reading this, you may want to have your very own suribachi and surigoki – the Japanese version of the

09

age-old mortar and pestle.

Oishii Events: It’s that time of the year for sake and food lovers to eat, drink and be merry! Refer to page 6 for Kanpai! and page 32 for Hashigo event informations.

16 1

opening notes

The Bountiful Season

W

hen we talk about autumn in Japan, often the first thing that comes to mind is the abundance of hearty, healthful foods that are harvested throughout the season in time for the coming winter months. This means, if you’re a health-conscious foodie, autumn is the best season to visit the country!

To kick things off, let’s start with the first crop of the season: Shinmai, or new-harvest rice. Available only for a limited period, shinmai is known to be not just more plump and moist than rice harvested during other times of the year, but also sweeter and more aromatic, making it a coveted ingredient across the country and beyond.

If you enjoy eating all sorts of fruit, you will fall in love with the myriad of autumn fruit in Japan. Among the more popular seasonal finds are persimmons and pears. Japanese pears, known as nashi, look and taste distinctly different than Western pears — the former are larger, crispier, sweeter, and have a rounder shape compared to the former. Apart from fruit, other great autumn produce to look out for include the highly prized matsutake mushroom, taro, sweet potato, chestnuts, and gingko nuts.

FALLING FOR FESTIVALS Have you ever wondered what the national flower of Japan is?

Well, there isn’t one. Unofficially, however, many say the title belongs to the perennial symbol of the Imperial House of Japan — the chrysanthemum. As a matter of fact, the last of Japan’s five annual traditional ceremonies is known as Kiku no Sekku, or Chrysanthemum Day. It is held on the

2

From top left: The bountiful autumn harvest; Arashiyama Momij i Festival in Arashiyama, Kyoto; Chrysanthemum sake.

numerologically auspicious ninth day of the ninth month, around which chrysanthemums tend to bloom. Unlike the other four annual ceremonies, Kiku no Sekku is celebrated with much less fanfare. Traditionally, people would place a piece of cloth over some chrysanthemums overnight to soak up the dew, then use it to wipe down their bodies on the morning of the festival, a practice believed to ward off evil spirits and promote longevity. Other ways to celebrate Kiku no Sekku include drinking chrysanthemum sake and tea, as well as viewing the beautiful blooms at exhibitions.

Another popular autumn festival in Japan is Arashiyama Momiji Festival. It celebrates not just the magical and romantic autumn shades but also an ancient custom in Arashiyama, which lies on the outskirts of Kyoto: Since the Heian period, an autumn pastime of the nobles was to visit the popular Arashiyama Bamboo Grove to feast their eyes on the beautiful red maple leaves, known as momiji in Japanese.

Today, the festival is celebrated around the Togetsukyo Bridge, the central landmark of Arashiyama over Oi River.

Every year on the second Sunday of November, you can expect to see performers dressed in traditional Heian period costumes and putting on delightful dance, music and art performances. Be sure to stay for the highlight of the festival — a re-enactment of the nobles cruising down Oi River in five Heian period-themed boats.

TEXT TAN LILI

In Japan, it is that time of the year to reap the bounty of the harvest.

#oishiisg Instagram Contest Share your goodness with Oish and stand a chance to win

ii today!!!

a Canon PowerShot N2 (wort

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1 January 201 hii magazine vol.12, issued on Ois on d nce ou ann be l wil rs Winne tion details. email or phone on prize collec All winners will be contacted via

CONGRATULATIONS! This photo was taken when we visited Kamakura this June.

Dressed up like a Japanese, experience the rickshaw with my friend! Look around the ancient city of Kamakura during Hydrangea season. Thanks to our driver for showing us around the hidden place at Kamakura. Unexpected experience! Love this city! Plan to go again next time and stay for few days. Day trip definitely not enough!

- skytea This photo is well composed. The hydrangea cuts the photo diagonal and that volume of the flower is very impressive. And the red color of the lap blanket is good contrast against the other natural color. We can feel a sense of the season from the photo itself. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; OISHII editorial team

RUNNERS UP

THE FINALISTS

Congratulations to the 2 winners!!

They will each walk away with a Canon camera accessories.

girlindesign

kirika88

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sig_ice

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<Terms and conditions>1.Please do not post any photographs that are obscene, vulgar, pornographic, hateful, threatening, racist, sexist, discriminatory, or which otherwise violate any local or international laws. 2.You must be the copyright owner of any works submitted and you also confirm you have the necessary permission from people who may appear in the photo.

3.Photos uploaded to the contest cannot be deleted and may remain published. 4.By entering this contest you agree that any winning image or runner up images you submit may be used by OISHII magazine solely for the purpose of this contest or future contests and no other purpose. 5.The judgesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; decision is final and they do not engage in communication with regard to entries.

This contest is currently open to residents of Singapore. #oishiisg Instagram contest terms may change from time to time.

For updates on the contest, please visit our Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/oishii.magazine) By entering this contest, you are deemed to have understood and agreed with the terms set out above.

artistic

creation

Food CHEF IVAN BREHM He earned his stripes working at critically-acclaimed restaurants like Thomas Keller’s Per Se and Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck.

Now the head chef at Bacchanalia, Brehm believes that the kitchen should not be run on fear but on mutual respect and mentorship. This brand of positive reinforcement evidently works; The Kitchen at Bacchanalia was recently awarded one Michelin star.

Head Chef Ivan Brehm of The Kitchen at Bacchanalia talks about why the quality of intention affects the way food ultimately tastes.

The Kitchen at Bacchanalia is located at 39 Hong Kong Street. Tel: +65 9179 4552

4

TEXT DEBORAH TAN PHOTOGRAPHY RAYMOND TOH/www.vineyardproduction.sg

“I’

ve never been to Japan. I always plan to visit but every time something comes up at the last minute and I’d have to cancel my trip. However, I did grow up in a Japanese neighbourhood in Sao Paulo, Brazil. The country has a considerable Japanese community, and their strong work ethics in agriculture have helped Brazil a lot. My grandmother is an ikebana artist and my first memory of Japanese food was sake. My family used to eat at a Japanese restaurant near our home a lot and my mum would dab some sake on my lips with her finger.

For this story I’ve created two dishes: the first is a Wagyu dish [See it on the cover of this issue of Oishii]. I used Australian grass-fed Wagyu here for its floral-buttery flavour. The meat is then severed with grilled satsuma and fresh sansho pepper. The next dish is a grapefruit and yuzu tart served with Assam tea ice cream. “I infused some honey with the zest of the yuzu. The sweet citrus notes juxtaposes against the acidity of the grapefruit. The Assam tea rounds the entire dessert up with a dash of bitterness. I see flavours as threads in a tapestry. When you weave them together masterfully, you get a beautiful picture.

For me, food is about intention and, as chefs, our ultimate goal is to do good. This intention has to manifest itself from the sourcing of the ingredients to the preparation and serving of the dish. It is a sum of all parts and at The Kitchen at Bacchanalia, our customers can witness this intention for themselves when they see the way the staff interacts with each other, with them, and the environment.”

events

A Year of Good Food In the spirit of re-invention, Japanese F&B industries bring their latest innovations to the world in these must-visit events.

Health Ingredients Japan 5 to 7 October 2016

OSAKA, JAPAN

TOKYO, JAPAN

Asian Food Show 2016 18 to 20 October 2016

If you’re part of the health and wellness industries, this is one trade event you need to attend. Health Ingredients Japan is an annual showcase of the latest in functional ingredients such as vitamins, seaweed, antioxidants, plant extracts, and many more.

Asian Food Show is one of Japan’s largest Asian food trade fairs and this year’s edition will be held in Osaka, also known as the “Food Capital of Japan.” Over 40,000 buyers and visitors are expected to attend this 3-day event, with highlights including a showcase of halal-certified Japanese products, Asian cuisine cooking demonstrations, and a Food Business and Hospitality seminar.

FHC CHINA 7 to 9 November 2016

SHANGHAI, CHINA

With 2,150 food and wine exporters and distributors from 66 countries in its 2015 edition, FHC China features more international companies and country pavilions than any food exhibition in China. This is the premier exhibition of choice for exporters and importers of food and beverages, and is a must-visit for industry players.

TOKYO, JAPAN Tokyo Ramen Show 27 October to 6 November 2016

SINGAPORE

This is one of Tokyo’s largest outdoor events dedicated to ramen noodles. Be sure to come hungry, as you’ll get to try a wide variety of ramen from all the different regions of Japan. Slurp!

Whisky Live 2016 12 to 13 November 2016

Whisky aficionados will have a field day at the seventh edition of Whisky Live, with guest appearances from the industry’s biggest names, including Rogerio Igarashi Vaz. He is the co-founder and chief bartender of the award-winning Bar Tram and Bar Trench in Japan.

During the event, he will be showcasing original and exclusive cocktail creations, making use of the latest cocktail trends from Japan. Fans of Japanese whisky will also be pleased to note that Nikka and Karuizawa 1965 will be available at the event.

5

feature

Kanpai to celebrate on 1st of October, Sak e the day of

D

id you know that 1 October is World Sake Day (Nihonshu no Hi)? First celebrated in 1978, after a declaration by the Japan Sake Brewers Association, there are a number of reasons why the date of 1 October was chosen.

First, this date marks the start of a new sake-brewing season that lasts all the way till April the following year. October also marks the start of autumn, a time when spring’s young brews mellow and start to become more complex. Coincidentally, the Japanese character for sake, also contains referring to the chicken, which happens to be the 10th animal sign in the zodiac.

Autumn also happens to be the best season to sample a variety of sake known as Hiyaoroshi. Hiyaoroshi is sake that has undergone heat pasteurisation once in spring so that it will last and mature through the summer months. Unlike most other seishu (clear, refined sake), however, hiyaoroshi will not undergo a second pasteurisation process.

Still not quite sure how best to appreciate sake? Here’s some sagely advice from Mr John Gauntner, the world’s leading non-Japanese sake specialist and author, “There is no one authentic way to enjoy sake.

Rather, it all comes down to to individual

tastes and preferences. When tasting sake, make sure you do it slow. Don’t down it like a shot, and be sure not to overheat it, too.

Letting it slow wash over your tongue is the best way to enjoy sake’s many different aromas and flavors.”

There’s no better time than 1 October, World Sake Day, to start your sake-tasting journey. OISHII is pround to support the fast-growing group of sake enthusiasts in Singapore and around the region, and is proud to present this event for the third year running. Don’t miss out on theseveral exciting sake-relted this month from 1 October. Kanpai!

:

“Let’s KANPAI at the stunning and prestigious Tower Club. Sample a wonderful variety of sake while experiencing diverse cultures”

SJ50 KANPAI!! 2016 SAKE DAY: - KANPAI! Party for $140 nett for free flow sake + BA XIAN’s special buffet - Special event: DAN TAKEDA’s live Ikebana performance - Grand lucky draw TOWER CLUB SINGAPORE BA XIAN CHINESE RESTAURANT www.tower-club.com.sg 9 Raffles Place, 63rd Floor, Republic Plaza1, Singapore 048619 Tel: 6737-3388 Supporters: Sakemaru, Wago, Premium Water, Tower club, Tillmans INC, RIM-JAPAN INC Organised by: JScompass

Reservation & inquiry : globaljscompass2016@yahoo.co.jp

<Terms & conditions> Reservations are subject to availability, at our discretion. Please email your name , telephone number, number of seats.

Cancellation after 24 September will be charged full amount.

6

Kanpai!

Let’s Kanpai together at our associated restaurants on 1 October and beyond!!! at Ryu’s JAPANESE RESTAURANT & SAKE BAR

at HONKE DONPACHI

Original sake label and sake cups

Free KANPAI! Sake at 8pm on 1 October!

Free KANPAI! Sake at 2am & 11pm on 1 October!

•Sake Party $130 nett *only on 1 Oct

Free flow Sake + Japanese buffet + Original sake cup

•Fusouzuru Original Singapore Label (180ml a bottle) 1 For 1 at $30 *while stocks last

KANPAI Set $28++ *while stocks last

1 glass of Sake + 3 assorted appetizers + Sake lees desert + Original sake cup Opening hours: 8pm - 4am Address: 5 Koek Road, #B1-23, Cuppage Plaza, Singapore 228796 Tel: 9667-3659 Website: https:facebook.com/DonpachiSakeBAR

Opening hours: 7.30pm - 10.30pm Address: 15 Stamford Road, #01-87, Capitol Piazza Singapore 178906 Tel: 6384-9087 Website: http://www.ryus.jp

at BAR IPPUDO

at SHUKUU IZAKAYA

Free KANPAI! Sake at 7pm, 8pm & 9pm on 1 October!

Free KANPAI! Sake at 7:30pm & 9:30pm on 1 October!

•Sake Oden Set $15++ *available till 10 Oct 1 glass Sake + 2 types of Oden

•Special Sake Tasting Set $18++

*available till 10 Oct

3 types of Sake from Bar Ippudo Collection

Opening hours: 11.30am - 11pm (L.O.10.30pm) Address: 1 Scotts Road, #04-22, Singapore 228208 Tel: 6235-2547 Website: http://www.barippudo.com

•Free 7 Kushi skewers per 1.8l sake ordered (excluding house sake) *available till end of Oct • A Grand Sampler Tasting Set $21+ 3 types of Sake + Shukuu’s sake cup

Opening hours: 6pm - 11.00pm Address: 8 Stanley Street, Singapore 068727 Tel: 6327-9240 Website: www.facebook.com/ShukuuIzakaya

*Promotion will be change without further notice.* Listed restaurants will serve Free Kanpai! sake (one cup each) for patrons at times stated.

We welcome all sake lovers to come join us for Kanpai! at our participating restaurants: Hakata Torikin

Address: 557 Bukit Timah Road,

GYOZA BAR

Address: 7A North Canal Road, 2F,

Singapore 048820 #01-14/16, Singapore 269694 Tel: 6465-5908 Website: www.torikinsg.com Tel: 8319-0875 Website: www.gyozabar.sg

TORIKIN TEPPAN Q

Address: 11 Unity Street, #01-21/22, Robertson Walk, Singapore 237995 Tel: 6235-0629 Website: www.teppanbarq.com

Check out our OISHII website for more details on the world sake day!

7

interview

A Sake Journey

Derrick Lim doesn’t speak Japanese and has no prior background in F&B. How, then, did he convince seven of the top sake producers in Japan to export their products to Singapore?

Derrick stirring a tank of sake fermentation (moromi), to regulate temperature

How I Convinced Top-Notch Breweries To Come To Singapore When I returned home, I got to work trying to find out how I could bring these sake labels into Singapore. I was lucky to have Gauntner and my senpai (senior) Etsuko Nakamura, who is a certified Sake Samurai. Both of them helped link me up with the various breweries I was interested in. In 2013, I took a two-week trip to Japan, where I drove from Fukuoka to Kyoto, meeting with various brewery owners and master brewers.

I didn’t speak Japanese so I had a translator with me, and I tried to answer the brewery owners’ questions as honestly as I could. It was not easy trying to convince them to take a chance on me — an F&B rookie with no experience in

From left: Derrick at the Tamagawa brewery with the president, Mr Kinoshita and the master brewer, Mr Philip Harper; Derrick with Mr Yasunobu Tomita, brewer of Shichi Hon Yari sake, and Sake Samurai Ms Etsuko Nakamura

the distribution industry — but I made sure I did as much research as I could before the meetings. The Kinoshita brewery, which produces Tamagawa sake, was the first to say “yes”. However, it took me over three hours of discussions before they agreed!

From Sake Novice to Sake Evangelist Today, I represent seven sake breweries in Singapore. Not only do I distribute their products to various restaurants, I also organise sake pairing workshops and even master classes (in partnership with Gauntner). My hope is that with these classes, more people in Singapore will come to appreciate sake beyond just a brand name or its price tag. There are so many incredible sake labels from boutique breweries, and each of them comes with its own unique history and flavour profile.

Whenever someone is trying a sake for the first time, my advice is always to have an open mind and not to limit themselves to what they’re familar with. Also, don’t focus too much on technical information. What’s more important is to be true to your palate.

For more information on Derrick and his sake workshops, visit http://forgoodnessake.sg/

8

TEXT VANESSA TAI

“I

’ve always drunk sake in Japanese restaurants but never knew much about it. It was only in 2010 that I first experienced a meal where nonJapanese dishes were paired with sake. That experience sparked my interest; I wanted to find out all about this well-loved drink. This quest for knowledge led me to John Gauntner, the world’s leading non-Japanese sake expert.

In early 2012, I travelled to Tokyo to attend a sake professional course under Gauntner. It was a life-changing course as it truly opened my eyes and palate to a new dimension of sake appreciation. Over the five-day course, we tried over 100 labels and I was astonished to discover the wide variety of flavours available. It dawned on me how little we knew about sake here in Singapore and how few labels are available to us.

In June 2012, I attended a sake fair in Ikebukuro, Tokyo, which is where I met representatives from the Shichida and Amabuki breweries. Little did I know, these two breweries would soon be among the breweries I’d represent in Singapore.

flavours

Citrus

Crazy About Add some zest to your kitchen with these three popular varieties of Japanese citrus fruit that are used as condiments.

TEXT TAN LILI

W

hen we mention “citrus fruit”, some of the varieties that come to mind are commonly available ones like oranges, lemons, limes and grapefruits. At any Japanese grocery store, however, you will come across crate after crate of vibrant coloured citrus fruit bearing names you might never have heard of. In the next few pages, we pick three of the more popular Japanese citrus fruit varieties to refresh your mental palate.

But before we dig into their juicy backgrounds, here’s a little more about citrus production in Japan. The favourable topography of certain parts of Japan, particularly the warm and humid coastal regions with steep slopes, makes for ideal conditions to cultivate citrus fruit. Even though Japan has a

long history of citrus production, there is no definitive evidence of when it began. One of the earliest types of citrus fruit believed to have been cultivated domestically is the mandarin orange. In this article, we put a spotlight on three varieties of citrus fruit that are used as condiments — yuzu, kabosu, and sudachi. If you’re wondering how different these three citrus varieties are from one another, you’ll be amazed.

Such is the distinction of Japanese condiments that the nuances in flavours can be individually picked up and used for different purposes. These three citrus varieties are no different. While they all belong to the citrus family, each has its own unique aroma and taste. Furthermore, the way they are used also varies by region.

Turn the page to find out more.

11

Yuzu E

ven if you haven’t been to Japan, you’d most likely have tried this aromatic citrus fruit due to the fact that in recent years, yuzu has been sprouting up as a coveted ingredient in modern dishes and beverages, from desserts to salads and even cocktails.

This bumpy-skinned citrus fruit has its origins in the Yangtze River in China, and is believed to be a hybrid of sour mandarin and Ichang papeda, another citrus variety. When yuzu was introduced to Japan during the Nara period (710-794), the fruit was grown for culinary, hot bath, and medicinal purposes, and are still used as such today. The yuzu bath, also known as yuzuyu or yuzuburo, is a winter custom that is said to protect you from colds, smoothen the skin as well as relax your mind. The fruit also boasts several other health and medicinal benefits, thanks to its antimicrobial properties and high levels of vitamin C — compared to lemon, yuzu contains three times the amount of vitamin C! Having said that, yuzu does share a similarity with lemon in that they are both typically not eaten on their own. In the kitchen, yuzu, like lemon, is largely used for its juice and outer rind as a flavouring to add tartness and an aromatic citrus accent to food and beverages. In Japanese cuisine, yuzu is nearly synonymous with ponzu, a popular citrus-based sauce that contains the juice of yuzu as well as other citrus fruit.

Today, the top producers of yuzu can be found on the island of Shikoku, with Kochi prefecture leading half of the domestic production.

12

Kabosu

Crazy About Citrus

C

losely related to yuzu and often confused with sudachi, kabosu was introduced to Japan from China during the Edo period (1603-1868). The majority of the domestic yield of kabosu — as high as 97 percent — comes from Oita prefecture, which explains why this citrus fruit is regarded as a delicacy and is expensive outside of the prefecture.

Kabosu, usually harvested when it’s still green, has a thin, smooth peel encasing pale orange flesh that’s incredibly juicy with a lemon-like sharpness.

Because of its tartness, it is sometimes used in place of vinegar in Japanese cuisine. Kabosu is also used with sashimi, grilled fish, and hot pot dishes, as well as in other food and beverages, from desserts to liquor.

In Oita prefecture, locals would drip the juice of kabosu into dishes like miso soup and noodles for added fragrance and zest. That’s not all; as the leading producer of kabosu, some of the fish farmers in Oita prefecture mix kabosu into their fish feed — the polyphenols in the fruit help prevent discolouration and odour in the meat for longer periods of time. Japanese amberjack (buri) and flounder (hirame), which are given this mix, are thereafter marketed as Kabosu Buri and Kabosu Hirame.

13

Crazy About Citrus

Sudachi T

his green-skinned citrus fruit bears a striking resemblance to kabosu, except it’s much smaller (sudachi is roughly the size of a table tennis ball while kabosu is about the size of a tennis ball) and contains greenishyellow flesh. However, don’t be fooled by its small size, because sudachi sure packs a lip-puckering citrus punch! As with yuzu and kabosu, sudachi juice is widely used as a flavouring for its mild zesty aroma that helps enhance the flavours of the dish. Two notable dishes that use sudachi are grilled matsutake mushroom and grilled sanma (Pacific saury). The mushroom is typically served drizzled with sudachi juice and a few drops of soy sauce, while the sanma is served with a wedge of sudachi on the side. It’s also common to see half-sliced sudachi being served as a garnish alongside traditional Japanese eats, such as soba and udon.

Large-scale cultivation of sudachi began in the mid-1950s, but sudachi trees that are more than 200 years old have been found in Kamiyama-cho in Tokushima prefecture, which is said to be the only sudachi-growing region in Japan. It is also due to this fact that sudachi is generally more expensive outside of the prefecture.

Sudachi is well-known by the locals for its abilities to regulate blood sugar levels, prevent fatigue, and boost calcium absorption. It also helps reduce sodium intake as sudachi can be used in place of salt or soy sauce.

If you ever visit Tokushima, be sure to look out for their adorable regional mascot Sudachi-kun, named and fashioned after — you guessed it — sudachi.

Sudachi-kun made its debut appearance at the 1993 National Sports Festival hosted in Tokushima, and it has since remained the prefecture’s much-loved representative.

14

Prized Delicac

y from Japan

Feast on Fugu

Fugu (puffer fish)

is a prized delicacy from Japan. Fuku Fine Kaiseki Restaurant is the first restaurant in Asia outside of Japan to serve fugu all year round; this is one dining experience you wouldn’t want to miss! We invited four guests from different parts of the world — South Korea, Thailand, Brunei, and the UK — to try fugu for the first time, and here’s what they have to say.

Tipaporn Thiptanee

Lauren Park

John Kyle Fulton

Tessa (Sliced fugu fish)

“The chewiness is unexpected — and I love it! The texture is almost similar to that of squid, except this is easier to bite through.” – Tipaporn “It has a chewy texture and goes really well with the ponzu sauce.” - Lauren

“It’s beautifully crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. I prefer it without the lime and salt as, on its own, it already tastes amazing. The addition of lime and salt, however, does adds sweetness to the fish.” – Tipaporn “Word of advice: Be careful of the bones!

Otherwise, this pairs well with beer – we Koreans love our beers.” – Lauren

<

> Karaage ( Deep fried fugu fish)

<

> Fugu Hotpot

“The soup is light with a hint of sweetness. I love the combination of the ingredients here!” – Tipaporn “I like the clean, subtle flavours of the soup — a great way to end a meal.” – Lauren

<

>

Widari Bahrin

“There is a slight gelatinous bite to the tessa. I like it dipped in daikon and ponzu sauce — the acidity of the sauce gives the dish a refreshingly complex flavour.” – John “I particularly enjoy it with the spicy sauce. The presentation of this dish is amazingly meticulous.” – Widari “The batter is thin, and I can taste the density of the meat. I like it with lime and salt — I’m British, I grew up on fish and chips!” – John “The texture is almost like chicken! I like the firm bite of it. Like John, I prefer it with lime and salt — the lime cuts through the batter and brings out the flavour of the fish.” – Widari “This is comfort food at its finest. It’s light without being bland, and I would imagine it is very nourishing.” – John “For some reason, this soup goes exceptionally well with yuzu umeshu! Perhaps the citrusy punch of the beverage balances the delicate flavours of the soup.” – Widari

3 Unexpected Benefits of Fugu 1.

2.

3.

It is rich in taurine, a compound found in energy drinks that helps regulate water and mineral levels in the blood.

It is also rich in inosinic acid, which aids metabolism.

It is high in collagen, which strengthens the skin, blood vessels, bones, and teeth.

FUKU FINE FUGU KAISEKI RESTAURANT 14 Mohamed Sultan Road #01-01 S(238963) • TEL: +65 6235 8216 • SMS: +65 9671 0560 • www.fugu-fuku.com

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Fukui

FASCINATING

福 井

TAKE IN THE BREATHTAKING VIEW OF MIKATAGOKO (FIVE LAKES)

TEXT DENISE LI PHOTOGRAPHY TOMONOBU KITAGAWA

Make your way to up to Summit Park, situated along the Rainbow Line, a 11.2km scenic road and you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view of Mikatagoko (Five Lakes). The view of the lakes changes from season to season, and the waters each have their own characteristics: fresh water, salt water or a mix of both. The park is also home to a beautiful rose garden, and while you’re there, write a wish on a clay tile and toss it into the distance. Legend has it that if a tengu (mountain goblin) picks up the tile, he just might make your wish come true!

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J

ust what is it about Fukui prefecture that makes it the happiest in Japan, according to a study released by Hosei University in 2011. In short, a relatively low unemployment rate, support systems to help shoulder the burden of child-rearing, low mortality rate, and quality hospitals.

Of course, these are not things you can easily observe if you’re only on a week long jaunt to the prefecture. What you will

encounter, however, are friendly locals, an abundance of amazing produce, beautiful scenery, and fascinating historical sights.

While on the topic of historical sights, not many areas in Japan can boast of having one of the best dinosaur museums in the world, Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum. Katsuyama city, where the museum is located, is home to the country’s largest excavation site. It’s easy to spend a full day wandering about the exhibits,

finding more about the creatures that continue to fascinate us even to this day.

Zen Buddhism is an integral part of Fukui’s history and culture, and continues to be important today, thanks to the influential Eiheiji Temple, which you will read more about in the next few pages.

Today the spirit of Zen Buddhism continues to inform the way residents of Fukui live their lives, as can be seen through how they relate to nature and their

ENTER JURASSIC WORLD A visit to Fukui isn’t complete without a trip to the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum in Katsuyama city. From the moment you walk in, you’ll immediately understand why the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum is ranked among the top three dinosaur museums in the world.

The most impressive exhibition hall of all has to be Dinosaur World, located in the basement. With 42 mounted reconstructed life-sized dinosaur skeletons on display, a few of them even contain original bones.

Learn more about dinosaurs that have so far been only found in Japan and Asia, including reconstructed skeletons of dinos that have been named after dinosaurs found in Katsuyama city in Fukui — the Fukuisaurus, Fukuiraptor and Fukuititan.

With detailed signs in English explaining more about the origins of the dinosaurs, don’t be surprised if you find yourself spending a full day at the museum learning more about these fascinating creatures.

• Fukui City

surroundings. While they use the abundant natural resources available to them in the prefecture, preservation is also an important aspect of their ethos. For instance, while Fukui is famous for its Echizen crab, the fishermen do their best to ensure that the species does not become overfished by limiting the harvesting period for female crabs.

Speaking of preservation, another fine example of it is how fiercely the residents of

Fukui have protected aspects of their long, rich history. For instance, the Ichijodani Asakura Clan Ruins, and Heisenji Shrine which were destroyed centuries ago have since been excavated and rebuilt with great efforts, all so that Fukui residents and visitors alike can continue to appreciate these sites’ cultural importance to the region.

For those who have so far only been Japan’s more populated regions such as

Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, or Fukuoka, a visit to the more rural Fukui will prove to be an eye-opening experience. Sample some of the prefecture’s simple yet delicious produce, take in the numerous beautiful sights, meditate at its temples, and learn more about the area’s fascinating history. You might not gain enlightenment after that short visit, but you’ll feel a sense of peace and contentment that you’ll be hard pressed to find anywhere else.

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RESET YOUR BALANCE AT EIHEIJI TEMPLE Get a crash course on Zen Buddhism, right here.

An impressive temple by any measure, Eiheiji is made up of seven structures, including the main gate, the Buddha hall, the Dharma hall, the Priests’ hall, kitchen, bath, and toilets. Some of the cedar trees on the temple grounds are over 500 years old!

Join a monk-led tour of the temple to get a glimpse into how monks lead their everyday lives, as well as to learn about fascinating facts and trivia about the temple.

One thing you’ll notice, despite the number of tourists that visit the temple every day, is just how peaceful it is, as monks and tourists alike are expected to go about their daily business as silently and purposefully as possible.

While you’re visiting the temple, do take the opportunity to experience zazen. Zazen means “seated Zen”: The practice of simply sitting in the correct posture, being still, and letting body and mind return to their original condition.

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STAY SOBA FOR THIS If there’s one thing that the residents of Fukui take seriously, it’s soba. The prefecture is a major producer of buckwheat, and here, soba is most commonly eaten chilled with oroshi (grated Japanese white radish), soy sauce, and dashi (a stock made of sea kelp and bonito flakes). For Kenzo Takayanagi, soba is more than just a meal — it’s a way of life. One of Fukui’s most highly regarded soba masters, Takayanagi has been making soba for as long as he can remember. “I love eating soba and used to make soba as a hobby, even while I had an office job,” he reveals. About 25 years ago, he came out tops at an amateur soba-making competition and the rest, as they say, is history.

All of the soba made at Kenzo’s soba restaurant is made by hand using 100 percent soba powder. “In other restaurants, they make soba noodles using a mix of 80 percent soba powder, and 20 percent wheat.

However, I prefer using pure soba as it results in the best texture possible. At first bite, you’ll find that it’s smooth and al dente.”

Two types of soba noodle dishes are served up here. There is the traditional oroshi soba, and there’s also soba served up with a dipping sauce made of crushed daikon juice and a special soy sauce. The latter — which has a unique bitter, spicy flavour — is Takayanagi’s personal favourite way of enjoying soba.

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Rice The

is Right

The much-loved and now world famous koshihikari rice was actually developed right here in Fukui.

I

t always feels like a privilege to meet farmers whenever we go on these trips to Japan. As city dwellers in a country that imports the bulk of its food, we are so far removed from our food sources that it’s easy take to not give a second thought to how it’s grown or harvested.

To find out more about rice production in Fukui, we meet up with farmer Daisuke Hasegawa at one of his rice fields. Hasegawa — who owns 70 hectares of rice fields — grows nine different varieties of rice. Some of these are for eating, while some are used purely for making sake.

The most famous rice variant of all, of course, is koshihikari. Sweet, nutty, and with a plump, fluffy texture, this is Japan’s most well-loved rice variety. Fukui is responsible for producing only about 1 percent of all the koshihikari rice in Japan. In recent years, Niigata and Hokkaido have stolen some of Fukui’s thunder by becoming the two largest producers of koshihikari rice in Japan.

Fukui: Birthplace of Koshihikari The fact remains, however, that the koshihikari grain was created right here in Fukui about 60 years ago at the Fukui Agricultural Experiment Station. The selective breeding of rice is an extremely laborious and time-consuming process, taking about 14 or 15 years just to create one variant!

“Fukui has great conditions for rice growing,” shares Hasegawa. “Lots of sunny days, coupled with just the right amount of rain and wind.” The prefecture is also blessed with ample sources of pure water, including run-off from the sacred Mount Hakusan. The sudden dip in temperatures from day to night during autumn is also said to result in a more intense flavour.

Hasegawa is proud of the fact that minimal chemical fertilisers and pesticides are used in his farming process. Not only does this result in a healthier grain, it also translates to cost savings, which Hasegawa is happy to pass onto the rest of the supply chain.

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High Production

Soba Powder and Noodles

Value

Produce

From rice to seafood, Fukui’s wide range of fresh produce will have foodies and chefs alike in a tizzy.

Healthy, light and tasty, it’s easy to see why residents of Fukui are so in love with chilled Echizen oroshi soba (soba served with a dashi stock, grated daikon radish and bonito flakes). While the sight of buckwheat fields is common as you make your way around the prefecture, in actual fact, domestic production of soba grains is not enough to meet demand; the grains also have to be imported to satisfy Fukui residents’ appetites for this healthy grain. All the millers use traditional millstones to grind the soba powder. This is a process that requires patience and skill so as to retain the flavour and characteristic aroma of soba. No part of the soba grains goes to waste — even the husks are used as stuffing for pillows.

Echizen Crab

This delicacy is only available during the winter months.

The male crab is caught from November to March every year, while the period for harvesting female crabs is even shorter, to protect the species from becoming endangered.

While the male crab has sweeter flesh, the female crab is prized for its roe. Each and every crab sold comes with a sticker that certifies its quality. While some people enjoy it as a sashimi, grilled, or in shabu-shabu, it is usually eaten boiled and flavoured with salt. It’s been known to take years of experience to know just how much salt and boiling time is needed to ensure it’s prepared to perfection. Since it became common knowledge that Echizen crab is eaten by no less than the Japanese royal family since 1909, demand for it has been consistently high.

Ama Ebi Ama Ebi literally means “sweet shrimp” and the flavour is exactly as the name implies.

Usually eaten as sushi, ama ebi is rarely cooked as this robs it of its natural sweetness. The best time for harvesting ama ebi is between end of March straight through to October. In a fish market in Mikuni, middlemen gather in the evening to bid for stocks of ama ebi as they come in from the port. These delicious shrimp will then be transported to Tokyo restaurants within 24 hours. Many chefs believe that the meeting of the cold and warm currents in the area results in the best quality shrimp possible.

Koshi no Ruby Tomatoes One look — and taste — of the Koshi no Ruby tomato will make you look at this common vegetable in a whole new light.

First, there’s its appearance; medium-sized and glossy, it’s easy to see why it’s been given its name “ruby”. Created in Fukui prefecture 20 years ago at the Agricultural Department of Fukui Prefectural College (now Fukui Prefectural University), it is sweet, flavourful, and oh-so-juicy. Great for cooking, it’s also delicious enough to be eaten on its own.

Benisashi Ume and Umeshu Compared to plums grown in the other regions of Japan, the seed of the Benisashi ume is smaller, and has a meatier flesh. Benisashi ume is perfect for making umeshu as it contains three times more amino acids than regular ume, resulting in umeshu with more complex flavours. As umeshu is usually quite sweet, it has gained a reputation as a drink for ladies. The people behind Benichu, however, decided to develop variants of umeshu that was less sweet with a stronger flavour of alcohol to appeal to the men.

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Heart ’ s Eat To Your

Content

Because you’re not likely to find food like this outside of Fukui prefecture.

Hachisuke Of course, chilled oroshi soba is on the menu at this homely restaurant, but there’s another reason why Hachisuke is worth visiting … Sake! A visit to a soba shop is a great excuse to sample the region’s sakes, because they also serve up small plates, such as tempura or kamaboko (Japanese fish cake), which make great accompaniments to the alcoholic beverage.

Dansuke

Shojin-ryori (vegetarian meal) at Eiheiji Temple If you decide to stay a few days at the temple to meditate, this is an example of a meal you can expect to eat while you’re there. Apprentice monks prepare all meals using locally sourced ingredients, and they practise a strict “no wastage” policy. Visitors are required to follow a certain protocol during mealtime. There is chanting before and after the meal, and each bowl must be individually picked up to eat the food in it, and then set down in its original position. The monks believe that when proper order is followed during mealtime, this sense of purpose will translate into other aspects of the person’s life too.

Dansuke supplies goma (sesame) tofu to several temples and shrines in the regio, and is an important source of protein for the vegetarian monks. Kuzu (arrowroot) and the roots of mountain plants are used as substitutes for gelatin, giving it that distinctive sticky texture. At Dansuke, you have the option of eating freshly prepared goma tofu with either miso or red bean. We found that saltiness of the miso paired especially well with the subtle fragrance of sesame — a healthy treat at any time of the day. You can also buy pre-packaged goma tofu to bring home as a souvenir.

Hatsumitei This sushi restaurant has been around for about fifty years now, and is now owned by second-generation chef, Hajime Matsutani. If it’s in season, be sure to try the sushi with red sweet snapper, as it is a type of fish only caught in Wakasa region. Besides sweet snapper, the chef also enjoys working with regular snapper, as it’s a versatile catch that can be enjoyed steamed, grilled, and deep-fried. All the fish sold at Hatsumitei are caught on the day itself.

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Food

Kaika-tei Sou.an The first thing you’ll notice about the restaurant’s exterior is its unique lattice-design exterior, designed by famed architect Kengo Kuma. A modern take of a traditional Japanese pattern used in architecture, the design of the building is reflective of the food that’s served in the restaurant: A contemporary update of the Japanese kaiseki. Helmed by Chef Hataji Hisamitsu with the intention of making kaiseiki more accessible to the younger crowd, the ingredients — handpicked by Chef Hisamitsu himself — are similar to those used in Japanese kaiseki, including the freshest catches are of the season. At this reservationonly restaurant, Chef Hisamitsu takes the effort to find out what occasion his customers are celebrating so he’s better able to customise the meal for them. Pictured here is the fried wakasa gochi (also known as amadai), a type of fish caught in the Wakasa region of Fukui.

Nishisaka

Sogno-Poli Fresh produce and unfussy preparation methods are the cornerstones of good Italian cuisine. Clearly inspired by the time he spent in Italy honing his skills as a chef, Tsuyoshi Yamamoto opened Italian restaurant Sogno Poli in October 2015 as a way of showcasing some of the finest produce Tsuruga city has to offer. We tried a squid and cabbage pasta, which uses surumeika, a type of squid caught off the waters of Tsuruga Bay, and were won over by this simple dish’s fresh ingredients and robust flavours.

The city of Mikuni is famous for a sweet dumpling known as sake manju, which has a sake-flavoured skin and a filling of red bean paste. Made with leftover sake mash after fermentation, the dumpling doesn’t actually contain alcohol — only the delicate fragrance of sake. Sake manju was traditionally used in Japanese weddings, when these dumplings were tossed from the balcony of the house belonging to the groom after the bride has made her way there. This practice used to be more common a few decades ago, but has seen a revival in recent years. Nishisaka was established about a century ago, and is currently run by its third-generation owner. Sake manju can also be enjoyed deep-fried.

Manmoto Another restaurant that uses Fukui produce almost exclusively is Manmoto, which has been in same location for 71 years now. The fourth-generation owner and chef, Koichi Manmoto, often uses vegetables from his own farm. Clearly proud of Fukui produce, he wants visitors to enjoy the simple, home-style dishes at his restaurant, because he believes it’s not necessary to over-complicate matters when he’s already working with fresh ingredients. Manmoto is also unique in that it carries at least one sake label from every one of Fukui prefecture’s 36 breweries. Sake sampler sets are also available, because chef Manmoto wants visitors to Fukui to enjoy the wide range of sake the prefecture has to offer.

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Experience

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Fukui

Kura Hopping In

Ta ka y as u H an ag ak N an b u , i S h u zo

Contributing writer Denise Li gets an up close and personal look into just what goes into the creation of sake, miso, and heshiko (fermented mackerel).

I

n a word, kura simply means “storehouse”. They are buildings usually made of timber, stone o or clay and used to store valuable Ko m e g Japanese commodities. But a kura is more than just a warehouse to store goods; it is also the place where the magic of fermented goodness happens. We wouldn’t have sake, miso, and heshiko (fermented mackerel, a local specialty of Fukui) if they weren’t allowed to first mature in a kura.

Our first kura stop is Nambu Sake Brewery, the brewery behind the Hanagaki label, located in Ono city. Ono is famed for its pure, slightly soft water, and it is the only city in Japan where its residents still get their drinking water from the ground, rather than through pipes.

Fugaku The pure water, coupled Wind Cave with a locally grown rice variant known as Gohyakuman-Goku, and a cold and humid environment are all responsible for the creation of the highly regarded Hanagaki sake. Today, the brewery is run by Takayasu Nambu — the ninth generation owner of the company — and he’s proud of the fact that the sake that comes out of his brewery “has a rich umami flavour, yet remains clear on the palate”. Indeed, most of the sakes I tried while at the brewery packed punchy flavours that I just couldn’t get enough of. As someone who’s more used to the subtle fragrance of Niigata’s sakes, I found Hanagaki’s sakes to be a refreshing change.

Our next stop is Komego, which has been producing miso in Fukui since 1831, and is the only miso brewery

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Mikiko Kato

permitted to provide miso to Eiheiji Temple. To be honest, I’d not given much thought to this ubiquitous Japanese seasoning before visiting Komego. It was eye-opening for me to find out that the process of making miso bears a number of similarities to sake production. As with sake production, rice and koji mould — along with soybeans — are miso’s main raw ingredients, although barley or rye may also be used in place of rice. Like sake, miso takes a few months to ferment, and must be done under the right temperature and humidity. In general, the longer it takes for miso to ferment, the less salty it’ll be.

The colour of the miso is dependent on the percentage of each ingredient used in the mixture.

White miso is made with soybeans that have been fermented with a large percentage of rice, resulting in a sweet flavour that’s perfect for use in light sauces.

By contrast, red miso is usually made from a higher percentage of soy beans fermented with barley or other grains, and has a stronger umami flavour compared to white miso.

There are 11 types of miso sold at Komego. The most expensive is a variant called Homare, which is made using organic soybeans and organic rice from Fukui and allowed to mature for two whole years!

Last but not least, you can’t have a conversation about fermented foods in Fukui without talking about heshiko. This local specialty was developed as a way of preserving mackerel that had to travel long distances back in the day.

To find out more, we meet up with Mikiko Kato, one quarter of the okami (inn hostess) collective based in Mihama city that started making heshiko as an alternative source of income when the demand for accommodation started to fall about 15 years ago. Now in her 70s, Kato has the energy of someone at least two decades younger.

Preparing heshiko for H e sh iko fro m M fermentation is simple enough. ih am a The fish is first rubbed with salt.

After two weeks, it’s mixed with sake mash and rice husk powder, then left to ferment in giant pots in a kura for about a year. No chemical additives or preservatives are used in the process. Kato prefers using mackerel imported from Norway, compared to domestically caught mackeral because the supply is more consistent, and also because it contains more fat. Nothing goes to waste; even the liquid that comes out of the fish during the process of fermentation is collected and used to make fish sauce.

Fukui

Fascinating

Don’t forget your camera — you’ll need it for all the snapshots you’ll be taking of the prefecture’s beautiful landscape..

Tojinbo At sunset, make your way to Tojinbo, a scenic spot spanning 1.5km along the coast. Nature has worked its magic on the cliffs, which were formed by the rough waves of the Sea of Japan crashing against them. If you’re lucky, you’ll even see majestic waves that go as high as 20m! The magical sight of the sun setting on the horizon as you sit on the rocks is one that’ll stay for you for a long time to come.

Ichijodani Asakura Clan Ruins

Heisenji Shrine Located at the base of the sacred Mount Hakusan, legend has it that the monk Taicho decided to build Heisenji shrine during the 800s after a chance encounter with the goddess of Mount Hakusan. The shrine was burnt down during the 16th century following a farmers’ revolt, but was rebuilt during the Edo period (1603-1868). While monks no longer reside there, its beautiful grounds are still worth a visit. Characterised by a bed of green moss, the most gorgeous spot has to be the tranquil pond, where the meeting between Taicho and the goddess supposedly took place. When you’re there, you’ll feel like you’ve been transported into a Hayao Miyazaki film.

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These are the ruins of the castle town of the Asakura family who ruled Echizen for 103 years from 1471. The town was completely razed to the ground by the warlord Oda Nobunaga in 1573. At its peak, it was the area’s cultural, military and commercial centre, with over 10,000 residents. Excavation work for the site began in 1967, which uncovered the foundation of the town, including a house that used to belong to the lord, samurai residences, temples,and more. Most of the town has been reconstructed, providing fascinating insight as to how people lived and worked centuries ago.

Sights

Yokokan Garden Located smack in the middle of Fukui city, the sprawling Yokokan Garden is an oasis of calm, providing a stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of city life just outside its walls. Known for being a place of study and learning, much of its original structures were destroyed during an air raid in World War II. It was rebuilt in the 1980s following a blueprint dating back to 1823. Today, the garden is home to cherry trees, plum trees, hydrangeas and pony. After a stroll through the garden, explore the building to see the room where the lord of the house used to relax, as well as the room that was previously used for viewing the moon.

Kumagawa-juku This town flourished during the 17th to 19th century when it formed an integral part of the “Old Mackeral Road”, a route that people journeyed through to deliver seafood to Kyoto. These people would usually make the 24-hour journey to Kyoto with a 60kg weight on their backs!

Modernisation eventually led to its decline. One unique characteristic of this town is that all the houses — which are still occupied today — are of modest size, and designed in the same manner. The reason for not building a house of a more extravagant design is because they were prone to catching fire; having a simple design allowed occupants to quickly rebuild their houses if the need to arose.

Echizen Pottery Village Echizen pottery has a rich history dating back some 850 years. Echizen pottery is fired unglazed, and its design is determined by the ash glaze generated in the kiln . Director of the Echizen Ware Industrial Cooperative Association, Toyokazu Yoshida, explains that clay from Fukui is particularly suited for pottery making as it is contains high levels of iron, giving it a distinctive reddish colour when it oxidises. The village attracted around 30,000 visitors during the Echizen Pottery Festival in June this year.

Echizen Soba Village Once you’ve eaten your fill of oroshi soba, why not try your hand at making it for yourself? At Soba no Sato, you’ll be guided through the whole process of soba-making; from kneading the dough, right down to the slicing of the noodles. A word to the wise: Making soba a lot more difficult than it looks, and requires years of practice to master. The soba you’ve made will be cooked, so you can eat the noodles you’ve just made with your own two hands!

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Fukui feature

Souvenirs

Memories of

Be sure to leave lots of space in your luggage for all these souvenirs you’ll be bringing home from your trip to the prefecture.

Soy Sauce from Muroji For the serious chef, cheap, mass produced soy sauce just won’t do.

At Muroji, soy sauce is made by closely following Edo era methods of brewing, resulting in a more natural shoyu free from additives.

The owner works closely with scientists from a local university to develop a type of fish sauce without a fishy odour, which he then uses in the brewing process to make an alcohol-free and halal certified soy sauce, named Fukumurasaki.

Wakasa Lacquered Chopsticks Wakasa lacquerware has a 400-year-old history, and the lacquered chopsticks produced in the region is characterised by beautiful inlaid mother-of-pearl. Buy a pair or two to add a touch of luxe when you dine at home!

Spectacles Sabae city in Fukui prefecture has been the site of eyeglass frame production for over a century and, during the 1980s, craftsmen here were the first in the world to develop the technology for producing frames using titanium — a light, yet sturdy material. Pick up a pair of spectacle frames when you’re in Fukui, and you’ll be a guaranteed a stylish pair that will stay with you for years to come.

Tangerine Beer from 914 Que Sera Cellar Miyamoto This refreshing beverage is made using higashiura mikan, a type of tangerine that’s grown in Tsuruga city. The result? A beer that’s fruity, sweet, and slightly tangy, perfect for meal pairings or imbibing on a hot summer’s day.

Echizen Mugicha (Barley Tea) The singer Sting was spot on when he described barley fields as being “fields of gold”, which will you notice as you drive through Fukui’s countryside. Barley grains were roasted to make this tea, resulting in a healthy, light, and caffeine-free beverage the whole family can enjoy.

Miso pasta sauce Perfect for creating pasta with Japanese flavours at home, this miso pasta sauce contains ama ebi, a type of shrimp this region is known for. Simply mix it with cream sauce for a delicious, indulgent meal.

Dinosaur keychain Dinos have become the mascots of Fukui prefecture, thanks to its world-famous dinosaur museum. This pretty T-rex keychain, which is made with recycled materials leftover from spectacle production, will look cute hanging off your phone or bag, and will surely bring back fond memories of your trip to Fukui.

About Fukufukukan Fukufukukan is located in the newly established Happiring shopping mall, and boasts over 200 made-in-Fukui products under one roof. Each and every product has to go through a rigorous selection process, and determined to be truly authentic and represensative of Fukui before it can be sold at Fukufukukan. Whether you’re on the lookout for tea sets made out of Echizen pottery, or a particular variant of sake from one of Fukui’s 36 sake breweries, Fukufukukan is the place to shop your heart out and bring some souvenirs home for family and friends.

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Listings

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Dining/Food Kenzo-soba 3-26, Matsuoka Kasuga, Eiheiji-cho, Yoshida-gun, Fukui, 910-1133 Tel: 0776-61-1481 Shojin-ryori (vegetarian meal) at Eiheiji Temple Shihi, Eiheiji-cho, Yoshida-gun, Fukui, 910-1294 Tel: 0776-63-4361 Hachisuke 1-1-8, Sakaemachi, Katsuyama-city, Fukui, 911-0033 Tel: 0779-88-0516 Dansuke 24-7-1 Aratani, Eiheiji-cho, Yoshida-gun, Fukui, 910-1227 Tel: 0766-63-3020 Hatsumitei 2−3−12, Minori, Fukui-city, Fukui, 918-8005 Tel: 0776-36-7017 Kaika-tei Sou.an 3-9-21, Chuo, Fukui-city, Fukui, 910-0006 Tel: 0776-23-1070 Sogno-Poli 4-1, Kanegasaki-cho, Tsuruga-city, Fukui, 914-0072 Tel: 0770-47-6707

Eiheij i Temple

Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum 51-11, Terao, Muroko, Katsuyamacity, Fukui, 911-8601 Tel: 0779-88-0001

Kumagawa-juku Kumagawa, Wakasa-cho, Mikatakaminaka-gun, Fukui, 919-1532 Tel: 0770-62-0330

Eiheiji Temple Shihi, Eiheiji-cho, Yoshida-gun, Fukui, 910-1294 Tel: 0776-63-4361

Echizen Pottery Village Echizenyaki no yakata 5-33, Ozowara, Echizen-cho, Nyu-gun, Fukui, 916-0273 Tel: 0778-32-2199 Echizen Soba Village 7-37, Makara-cho, Echizen-city, Fukui, 915-0005 Tel: 0778-22-0272

Nishisaka 4−2−14, Kitahonmachi, Mikuni-cho, Sakai-city, Fukui, 913-0046 Tel: 0776-82-0458 Manmoto 1-13-6, Hinode, Fukui-city, Fukui, 910-0859 Tel: 0776-22-2028

Nishisaka

Tojinbo Anto, Mikuni-cho, Sakai-city, Fukui, 913-0063 Tel: 0776-82-5515 Heisenji Shrine Heisenji, Heisenji-cho, Katsuyama-city, Fukui, 911-0822 Tel: 0779-88-8117

Shichiken morning market

Sights Mikata-goko (five lakes) Rainbow Line Mountain Peak Park 18-2-2, Kiyama, Mikatakaminaka-gun, Wakasa-cho, Fukui, 919-1301 Tel: 0770-45-2678

Heshiko Hinode Ryokan Hiruga, Mihama-cho, Mikata-gun, Fukui, 919-1126 Tel: 0770-32-0361

Shopping Nambu Sake Brewery 6−10, Motomachi, Ono-city, Fukui, 912-0081 Tel: 0779-65-8900

Kaika-tei Sou . an

Fukufukukan 2F 1-2-1, Chuo, Fukui-city, Fukui, 910-0006 Tel: 0776-20-2929

Special Thanks:

Komego 2-15-26, Haruyama, Fukui-city, Fukui, 910-0019 Tel: 0776-24-0081

Ichijodani Asakura Clan Ruins 28−37, Kidonouchi-cho, Fukui-city, Fukui, 910-2153 Tel: 0776-41-2330 Yokokan Garden 3-11-36, Hoei, Fukui-city, Fukui, 910-0004 Tel: 0776-21-0489

*Dial from Overseas to Japan +81(Country code) Area code (omit first zero) Land phone number

Komego

Ms.Mariko Nakamura(left) Inbound Tourism Promotion Division, Fukui Promotion Department Mr.Takazumi Funaki(right) Food Industry Promotion Division, Department of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Fukui Prefectural Government

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Check out OISHIITV on YouTube!

Welcome to the official home of OISHIITV on YouTube.

This OISHIITV channel is the most comprehensive collection of official channels you’ll find in OISHII magazines.

Inspired by OISHII magazine? Watch clips from our recent features on attractive regions and cities in Japan as if you are virtually traveling with us, and learn what they can offer to you.

To continue your journey to find more rich culture and tradition of Japanese food, culture and places to visit, log in to https://www.youtube.com/user/OISHIITV/

Scan this QR code and get connected to OISHII world now!

Instructions: 1. Install a QR code scanner on your smartphone. (various scanner applications are available for the major smartphone operating systems) 2. Launch the QR code scanner application.

3. Let the built-in camera in the smartphone scan the QR code.

Latest Clips from Fukui Channel - The Rice is Right - Eat to Your Heart’s Content - Fascinating Fukui, etc ...

* Find & scan QR code on page 16 - 28

Other Channels

- Nicely done, Nagasaki!

- Oidemase(welcome)! Yamaguchi - The Magical Sado Island - The hidden Secrets of Northern Hokkaido - Food Paradise Tokachi - Feast On Shizuoka - Joetsu is a Wonderland - Fabulous Fukuoka - A Nara Escape - Yes,Yes, Yamanashi!

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feature

ASHIGO-GO EVENT “Enjoy Fukui Produce in Singapore”

! s u n i o j e Com

1st to 31st October 2016

Sample Fukui’s prefecture’s specialties in Singapore!

Now that you’ve read more about food from Fukui (from pg 16), sample food from the prefecture for yourself at one of the four restaurants below. They’ve prepared an exclusive deal, wher eyou can enjoy one drink and accompanying finger food at a special price. This is the first of its kind, and is limited to the month of October only.

The person with the most number of visits over the duration of the Hashigo event will get the title of Hashigo Champion and win a special prize! Two runners-up will also walk away with prizes. Plus, the person who post most on facebook will get a prize too.

What is HASHIGO? Hashigo Zake is a colloquial Japanese term referring to a “pub crawl”. Hashigo translates to “ladder,” and hence the literal meaning of Hashigo Zake is “liquor ladder”. Akin to going up the rungs of a ladder, Hashigo Zake is the practice of going from one bar to another and sampling different types of alcohol. This term is not limited to bars alone, but can also refer to making rounds at different restaurants or coffee shops. This Japanese dates way back to the Edo period (1603-1868)! This month, we bring the Fukui produces to Singapore so you can join in on the fun!

PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS:

at MAGOSABUROU ard Tel: 6634 1411 Orch Rd Sco

tts Rd Sco d ard R

Rd

Orch

Pa te rs on

Bowyer Block

tts

Pacific C la ym Plaza ore Hl

Shaw House

at MANPEI Park m a Tel: 6222 2983 Outr

Singapore General Hospital Scotts Square

Marriott Singapore

Orchard Mrt

MAGOSABUROU

National Centre singapore

E

g on uT

nS

Se

t.

MANPEI

ION Orchard

Address: 2 Orchard Turn #04-11A & 05-01, ION Orchard, Singapore 238801 Operating hours: Monday-Friday 11:30am-3:00pm, 5:30pm-11:00pm (L.O. 10:00pm) Weekend & PH 11:30am-11:00pm (Dinner L.O. 10:00pm) http://magosaburo.sg

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Address: 59 Kampong Bahru Rd, Singapore 169367 Opening hours: Monday – Saturday 6pm to 4am (L.O.3am) Closed on Sundays *Sharing the same space as MANPEI, YAMANE serves tempura dishes and is open only during lunch time (11:30-15:00).

Hashigo

Be our

HASHIGO CHAMPION and win our special prize!

How to PARTICIPATE

1. Download the app via QR code 2. Go the restaurants below and order “Hashigo” menu 3. Start the app and hang member QR code over the reader at participaing restaurants to count.

The top 3 participants who visit the restaurant many times and 1 participants who post facebook most can get the prize!

About Fukui Produces It is the rich soil fertilized by the clear stream of the KuzuryuRiver. It is also the Sea of Japan, where a cold and a warm current meet and create rich nourishment. Fukui have a wide variety of products from the mountain, the country and the ocean side. That are grown with great care by the people of Fukui. It is good chance to try the unique products from the countryside, seasonal marine products.

at LEWIN TERRACE Hall y t Tel: 6333 9905 i C

Pacific Plaza Shaw Theatres

The Substation Peranakan Museum

Registry of Marriages

Scotts Square

nS

t.

ard Orch

Ar m en ia

at SABAR Tel: 6262 3453

Lok eY ew

St .

The Bible Society Armenian Apostolic Church of St. Gregory

SABAR Singapore Philatelic Museum

Wisma Atria

The Masonic Club Freemason’s Hall

Hil

Ngee Ann city

.

ION Orchard

National Archives

Or Lucky cha rd Plaza Rd

l St

Orchard Mrt

LEWIN TERRACE

Address: Japan Food Town, Wisma Atria #04-50, 435 Orchard Rd, Singapore 238877 Opening hours: Daily 11:38am-10:38pm, (break time 3pm-5pm) http://www.japanfoodtown.sg

Address: 21 Lewin Terrace, Fort Canning Park, Singapore 179290 Opening hours: Monday – Sunday 12pm-3pm, 6:30pm-11pm http://lewinterrace.com.sg

33

masters

The

BAR

Necessities

Bar Nippon @ Japan Food Town

It’s a combination that never fails to lift the spirits after a hard day at the office.

We’re talking about sake and food!

Meet the masters working their magic at three sake bars in Singapore.

W

34

Ryu’s Bar Ippudo

TEXT DEBORAH TAN PHOTOGRAPHY RAYMOND TOH/VINEYARD PRODUCTION

hen wet rice cultivation was introduced from China more than 2,000 years ago, the first form of sake was born a few centuries later. During the Asuka period (538 - 710), sake started to be made as we know it, using a combination of rice, water, and koji mold. At the end of the Heian period (794 - 1185), however, sake was usually only used for religious purposes, especially as offerings to the gods.

Mass production of sake began in the 1300s and breweries started to sprout up across the country. In 1904, the Japanese government established the first sake brewing research institute. Today, sake is synonymous with Japanese food culture as wine is to French cuisine.

The drink can be served in choko or sakazuki, small cups, poured from ceramic or tin flasks known as tokkuri. Another interesting way to serve sake is using the masu, a box-like wooden cup. A glass may be placed inside the masu and sake is poured till it overflows to represent the generosity of the host. In recent times, more modern bars have also started to serve sake in a wine glasses.

In the following pages, we speak to three kikisakeshis or sake sommeliers who share with us the finer points of enjoying this popular brew.

The Bar Necessities

H

is title means “warm sake making master” in Japanese. At Ryu’s, the specialty is warm sake and Mr Sakuma is the expert here. He is so adept at his trade that he can tell the exact temperature of the sake simply by using his sense of touch. When asked what’s his secret to serving sake that is sure to please his customers, he replies, “Happiness. As a kantsukeshi, I have to do my job joyfully. If I’m not happy, the sake will be affected by my mood and it will not be perfect when I serve it.”

What can customers expect when they come to Ryu’s?

At Ryu’s, we are about the whole experience. When customers come here, they are not just getting good sake, they are also getting good food! We believe it’s important to serve food made with real dashi. We also serve three different types of Japanese soy sauce here and will select the one that complements your food best. It’s about making sure the flavours of the food, sauce, and sake all go together.

How does one enjoy warm sake?

Warm sake is best enjoyed with food. Depending on what you are eating, a sake can be drunk at different temperatures. The lighter the food’s flavour, the lower the sake’s temperature. For stronger-flavoured food made with dashi, I would recommend sake served at a warmer temperature.

As with most things related to food, there are no hard and fast rules. For instance, depending on the fish, sashimi may be enjoyed with warm sake too.

Hiroyasu Sakuma

Kantsukeshi of Ryu’s

What makes a sake suitable to be served warm?

If a sake is too fruity or sweet, it’s not that suited as a warm sake. Dry sakes with a clean flavour profile taste great warmed. Aged sake (koshu) is also good as a warm sake because it’s got an umami flavour to it.

At Ryu’s, we serve sake at various temperatures: Hiya (10 – 35 degrees Celsius), Narukan (around 40 degrees Celsius) and Atsukan (around 50 degree Celsius). With foods like tonkatsu and tempura, it is even possible to serve sake warmed to 65 degrees Celsius. Do not heat your sake up to beyond 70 degrees Celsius though.

At that temperature, the alcohol boils off and you’d just be drinking rice water.

Ryu’s is located at #01-87 Capitol Piazza, 15 Stamford Road. Tel: 6384 9087

35

H

e cut his teeth working as a bartender at Ippudo in East Village, New York City, from 2008 to 2010, and has visited 300 sake breweries in two years!

For Mr Nakasuji, the salesperson he buys sake from must be a sake lover himself. “They must be passionate about their products!” he says. Like many kikisakeshis, he believes sake is best enjoyed when accompanied with food and so makes it a point to change up Bar Ippudo’s menu every month.

What are some characteristics of a good sake bar?

The first is variety so customers are able to sample as many different sakes as possible. Over the past year, Bar Ippudo has grown the number of sakes we offer to 200. The second is knowledge. A lot of Singaporean customers are still learning about sake and we need to be able to recommend how best to drink it. The third is food. All Japanese drink sake with food and so at Bar Ippudo, we have a bar menu offering otsumami (finger food) to go with the sakes.

How should one go about pairing sake with food?

When considering the food, you can look at it from several perspectives: ingredients (Is it meat? Fish?

Vegetables?), taste (Spicy? Salty?) and the cooking method (Raw? Stew?). Take the tomato, for example. If you are enjoying it as a soup, the sake to pair with it is different from the one you’d choose when you’re eating it raw with sea salt.

How do you go about helping a customer select a sake?

In the past, sake is just alcohol. These days, sake is like wine — with the vintage and brewery all getting attention from connoisseurs. So, when a customer asks for our help, we usually quiz them about things like, “What flavour do you prefer?”; “What kind of sake have you tried?”; “Which prefecture in Japan have you visited and did you try the sake there?”. Then, we look at the food they ordered and make our recommendation.

At Bar Ippudo, you’ll also see labels like “modern” and “classic” — that’s to let you know which sake you can drink warm. “Modern” sakes are better chilled.

Bar Ippudo is located at #04-23 Shaw Centre, 1 Scotts Road. Tel: 6235 2547

36

Takao Nakasuji

Operation coordinator and Project Leader of Bar Ippudo

The Bar Necessities

T

he man is so passionate about small sake breweries that he’s made it his mission to promote their products. “A lot of small breweries might not have the chance to get featured in the media and I want to change that!” proclaims Mr Yamamoto. His sake distribution business works with about 20 small breweries and, with his bartender training, uses these sakes to create unique cocktails to pique customers’ curiosity in them.

Tell us more about your interest in small sake breweries.

While big breweries have branding and consistency, I feel that small sake breweries produce sakes that demonstrate the skills of the tohji (sake brewer). In many ways, drinking a sake by a small producer feels like an intimate, handcrafted experience. 50 years ago, Japan had some 4,000 breweries. Today, the number has dwindled to 1,000. I want to preserve these small sake breweries. Whenever I find one, I would let chefs of Michelin-starred restaurants try it. If they like it, we’d sell it. There is a misconception that sakes by small breweries are not as good, but that is not true. They just don’t have the opportunity to be marketed on the same scale as big breweries. I want to change that!

Hirofumi Yamamoto

Manager of Bar Nippon @ Japan Food Town

Why does Bar Nippon pair sake with fruit, and create cocktails with them?

Many bartenders in Japan would choose to train in making classic cocktails because it’s prestigious, but my preferred specialty is using fruit to create cocktails. I was fortunate enough to be mentored

by Yasuhiko Mizusawa, who is renowned for his fruit-based cocktails. For Bar Nippon, Mr Mizusawa has created some recipes and I would then make adjustments based on the quality of the fruit we get. This season, we are working with red melons from Furano, Hokkaido, and passionfruit from Okinawa. Next season, I hope we get some strawberries and peaches.

What makes a sake suitable to be used in a cocktail?

The sake must be able to retain its rice flavour even after you mix it with other ingredients. It cannot be too sweet, neither can it be too strong. Using sake in a cocktail has also allowed us to try unique brews like the Yamadageolli (a sake-makgeolli hybrid) — it’s actually an unfiltered junmai daiginjyo and there are only 2,000 to 3,000 bottles on sale every season.

Bar Nippon @ Japan Food Town is located at Wisma Atria level 4, 435 Orchard Road.

Tel: 6262 3425

37

advertorial

City of Culinary Delights Hamamatsu is the largest city in Shizuoka prefecture and, unbeknownst to many, also home to a great variety of Hamamatsu city agricultural and seafood produce.

B

lessed with favourable natural conditions — a warm climate, a stunning mountain range and surrounding waters — and coupled with the city’s high adoption rates for new technologies, it is little wonder that Hamamatsu makes for the ideal environment to develop agriculture, forestry and fishery industries. The highly revered Chef Tetsuya Wakuda, who was born and raised in Hamamatsu, takes us through some of the finest produce from his humble hometown.

Scampi

Menegi (young green onion shoots)

Known as akaza-ebi in Japan, scampi is a large prawn-like species that can be found at depths of 200-750m in the sea.

These young spring onion shoots grow to a maximum height of around 8cm, and are typically used as a garnish.

“Because the menegi from Hamamatsu is a product of hydroponics, it is remarkably crisp with a subtle negi fragrance. Menegi goes well with most dishes, really. One way I serve it is atop tuna carpaccio drizzled in vinegar, olive oil, and soy sauce mixed with a bit of mirin and garlic.

The menegi adds texture and a beautiful negi flavour to the dish.

You can get scampi from New Zealand, but the ones from Hamamatsu have a denser, firmer flesh. Hamamatsu scampi also boasts a fantastic taste, which is why I serve it simply roasted with vanilla oil — a combination of vanilla and the neutral white sesame oil — and topped with lemon zest. The simpler the dish, the more precise you have to be. In this case, the precision lies in the roast: You have to remove the scampi from the oven the minute the meat is a little more than warm. Any longer, and the meat would lose its bite and optimal flavour.”

Roasted Scampi

MEET CHEF TETSUYA WAKUDA Chef Wakuda — the jovial chef behind the award-winning restaurants Tetsuya’s in Sydney and Waku Ghin in Singapore — was in town recently for Marina Bay Sands’ (MBS) Epicurean Market where he conducted a masterclass featuring some of the acclaimed ingredients he uses in the kitchen, including produce from Hamamatsu city.

Squid with jamon and shallots

Tuna Carpaccio

with Vanilla Oil

Baby celery

The baby celery from Hamamatsu may be small in size, but it packs a mightier aromatic punch than its bigger cousins.

Lobster with Truffle & Yolk

“This is one of my favourites.

The baby celery from Hamamatsu is featured in my lobster dish, which is served with truffle and egg yolk.

It perfectly complements the shellfish stock I use. Despite the celery’s intense aroma, it doesn’t take away the rich flavours of the lobster dish but instead adds a lovely accent to it.”

Pione (grapes)

Shallots

Rich in dietary fibre, Japanese shallots can be enjoyed fresh, pickled, or cooked.

“When I was a little boy, I would dip fresh Hamamatsu shallots in miso and eat them as they are — that’s how much I enjoy these shallots! In one of my dishes, I serve them fresh and chopped with stir-fried squid and cured ham fat.

The shallots lend sweetness to the ingredients without the heat and pungency of regular onions.

These large purple-skinned grapes are native to Shizuoka prefecture, and are known for its juiciness.

These grapes from Hamamatsu are less sweet than the coveted Kyoho grapes, and are slightly acidic — qualities that make pione an ideal ingredient in desserts. For my pione tart, the grapes are infused with wine to further enhance their flavour and taste.”

Pione Tart

https://www.city.hamamatsu.shizuoka.jp

Dashi-nitely Good

If you’re on the lookout for authentic and flavourful dashi, there’s only one place to go — Dashi Master Marusaya

Dashi — a nutritious and flavourful stock made using bonito flakes and sea kelp — forms the foundation of Japanese cuisine, and is used in everything from hot pots to chawanmushi (steamed egg).

Marusaya, a Japanese restaurant tucked away in Robertson Quay, takes its preparation of dashi very seriously, as it was originally a processedseafood wholesaler in Japan. They use honbushi, a type of katsuobushi (dried bonito) that’s been aged for two years for their dashi stock.

According to Marusaya’s executive chef Akane Eno, katsuobushi that’s been aged for two years is hard to come by, as the more common varieties are only aged from between six months to a year. The stock is best enjoyed in its premium shabu shabu, which is made from two-year aged katsuobushi and Hokkaido konbu (sea kelp).

When the soup is served at your table, more katsuobushi will be added to your soup for an even richer flavour. While you’re there, be sure to order the Okinawa Agu pork, which is prized for its tenderness and delicate flavour.

For Restaurants

For Home Chefs

If you own a Japanese restaurant, you’ll be glad to know that Marusaya also supplies katsuoboshi for commercial purposes. Beyond honbushi, many other varieties of dried fish are also available here, including sodabushi (made from bullet tuna or bullet mackerel) and sababushi (made from spotted mackerel).

Home chefs, you’re not left out too, as you can purchase a dashi pack from Marusaya to create authentic Japanese dishes from the comfort of home. This pack also uses katsuobushi that’s been aged for two years, and contains no salt or artificial seasonings. Round off your Japanese culinary experience with Marusaya’s very own soba dipping sauce and Original Powder.

86 Robertson Quay #01-01 Robertson Blue, S238245 Tel: 6732-0383 Website: marusaya.sg <Opening hours> Mon-Sun 12:00 - 14.30 (L.O. 14:15) 17:00 - 23:00 (L.O. 22:15)

Japanese Sake Bar ten

60 Robertson Quay #01-09 Quayside, S238252 Tel: 6735-0383 Facebook: TENbymaruysaya <Opening hours> Mon-Thur 21:00-26:00 Fri-Sat 21:00-27:00 Sun Closed

Ma rtin Rd Dashi Master Marusaya Ginza Lion

ed

Dashi Master Marusaya

Rishiri Konbu

ham

Powdered dashi

Marusaya Original Powder

St u Ho dio te M l

Thick flake

Ultimate Dashi pack with Seven Natural Ingredients

Saiboo St

Ultra thin bonito flake

Soba Dipping Sauce (2 years dried bonito)

Watermark Robertson Quay Mo

You can also choose how you want to the katsuobushi to be processed before it gets sent to your restaurant; whether you prefer it as a whole, in thick or thin flakes, or even as a powder.

Marusaya also offers a comprehensive range of other dashi ingredients, including konbu, shiitake, niboshi (dried baby sardines) and more.

Singapore River d

kR Haveloc

Japanese Sake Bar ten

recipes

ABC Cooking Studio Presents ...

Let’s make sushi rice at home!

Sonia Phua

ABC Cooking Studio, which opened its first studio in Singapore in 2015, specialises in teaching people how to prepare Japanese cuisine. In this issue, we find out how to prepare sushi rice.

Sushi Rice Ingredients

40

Step 1

Directions

1. Combine the ingredients for the sushi vinegar (vinegar, sugar, and salt) ahead of time.

2. Move the cooked rice to a bowl, drip the sushi vinegar on the rice using a shamoji (Japanese spoon for rice), slowly moving the shamoji around to spread the vinegar evenly throughout the rice.

3. Mix and fold the rice with the shamoji. When it starts feeling heavier, fan the rice to get rid of excess moisture. Steam the rice by covering it with a wrung wet cotton cloth.

Step 2

Step 3

Watch the video on how to make sushi rice on Oishii TV!

RECIPE AND PHOTOS CONTRIBUTED BY

ABC Cooking Studio has 135 studios currently operating in Japan. The studio provides cooking, bread, cake, wagashi (traditional Japanese confectionery) making classes in a comfortable and relaxed environment. In May 2016, after celebrating its first year anniversary, the ABC Cooking Studio Singapore received the Singapore Enterprise Medal of Honour Top 100 SMEs 2016. www.facebook.com/abccooking.sg

TEXT VANESSA TAI RECIPES ABC COOKING STUDIO

“S

ushi rice is made by mixing sushi vinegar (mixture of vinegar, sugar and salt) with Japanese rice. We recommend using Japanese rice instead of Thai rice, as the latter may be too dry to make sushi rice.

Sushi rice offers you plenty of health benefits. That’s because vinegar contains citric acid, which is good for boosting one’s appetite and easing fatigue. This is why Japanese people tend to eat more vinegar during the hot summer months.

Regular consumption of vinegar may also help boost your energy in Singapore, where the weather is perpetually hot! During the autumn months, we tend to eat more because of the new harvest, so consuming vinegar can help aid digestion. In addition, vinegar is also good for increasing blood circulation, which is good for those who are susceptible to feeling cold.

Sushi rice is often paired with raw or semi-cooked fish, as the tart flavour of the vinegar helps balance the oily flavour of the fish, ensuring your meal isn’t too heavy or stodgy.

Apart from giving the rice a nice sheen, vinegar also helps prevent the rice from drying out, keeping it soft and moist. Sushi rice is also less sticky than regular rice. One important thing to note when preparing sushi rice is to mix the sushi vinegar into the rice while it’s still steaming hot.

This is because vinegar isn’t absorbed by cold rice as easily as hot rice.”

3 tbsp vinegar 1 tbsp sugar ¼ tsp salt 400g cooked rice

Tuna and Squid Temari Sushi & Beef Temari Sushi

Ingredients (2 servings) ½ beaten egg A drizzle of salad oil 280g rice 2 tbsp sushi vinegar

(Tuna and squid temari sushi) 80g tuna (for sashimi) 60g squid (for sashimi)

(Beef temari sushi) 100g beef shoulder (Ushikata loin for steak) A pinch of salt A pinch of black pepper 5g beef tallow 20g purple onion (sliced) 1 tbsp mayonnaise Âź tsp Yuzukosho

Preparation

1. Heat the salad oil in frying pan and add beaten egg to make Japanese egg crepe (usuyaki tamago). Cut the egg crepe to 4 pieces, each measuring 2cm in diameter. Chop the rest.

2. Cut tuna and squid measuring 2cm in width and 5cm in length.

Prepare 12 pieces each.

3. Bring beef shoulder to room temperature for about 10 minutes.

Season it with a little salt and black pepper.

4. Soak purple onion in water for 10 minutes and drain it.

5. Mix mayonnaise with Yuzukosho, and put in a plastic bag. Cut the piping bag 1cm from the tip.

Directions

1. Put sushi vinegar to mix the rice. Add half of the chopped usuyaki tamago and mix. Divide the egg rice into 4 equal parts, and wrap it tightly in a ball shape with cling wrap.

2. Put beef tallow in frying pan and let it melt. Pan fry beef shoulder at high heat for about 1 minute. When it turns brown, turn and pan fry the other side for 30 seconds. Wrap it in aluminum foil for 5 minutes.

Slice it diagonally into 8 pieces.

3. Place 2 slices of beef shoulder on egg rice. Wrap it tightly in ball shape with cling wrap.

4. Place tuna and squid (3 pcs each) alternately on the egg rice. Wrap it tightly in a ball shape with cling wrap.

5. Put purple onion on top of [3] and squeeze some Yuzukosho mayonnaise. Put usuyaki tamago on top of [4].

Ingredients (2 servings)

80g smoked salmon or salmon flakes 1 tbsp sushi vinegar (for smoked salmon) 300g rice (about 2 rice bowls) 2 tbsp sushi vinegar (for rice) 8 pieces of Japanese perilla (Aojiso) An appropriate amount of pickled ginger

Salmon Oshizushi (Salmon Pressed Sushi)

Directions:

1. Drip 1 tbsp of sushi vinegar on smoked salmon and leave it on for 10 minutes.

2. Put sushi vinegar to mix the rice.

3. Cut the stem of aojiso.

4. Prepare a food storage container sized 15cm x 15cm.

Put cling wrap over it. Spread half of [2] evenly inside the box.

Put 4 pcs of aojiso and 40g of smoked salmon.

5. Repeat step 4.

6. Wrap [5] with cling wrap.

Press it tightly together with the back of a spoon.

7. Remove [6] from the container by pulling out cling wrap.

Cut it into bite size pieces. Serve with pickled ginger.

41

cool bites

With the paddy field as a canvas, what can you create?

Koyu Suzuki, village chief of Inakadate in Aomori prefecture, shares the story behind his quaint town’s incredible invention: Tanbo art.

Fields of

“F

or a long time, we were racking our brains.

Inakadate isn’t located near a mountain or the sea; what could our village possibly offer that would help revitalise our town and attract visitors? Twenty-three years ago, we found the answer. You see, in 1981, there was a momentous archaeological breakthrough.

An ancient rice field dating back to the Yayoi period around 2,000 years ago was discovered in Inakadate, which suggests that our village was one of the earliest to adopt rice cultivation in Japan. To honour this historical discovery, we decided to develop a first-of-its-kind attraction that centres around rice.

That was how the idea of tanbo (Japanese for “paddy field”) art came about in 1993.

The Process Every year around November, members of the public will submit design ideas to my committee in charge of tanbo art.

The final selection will be seen side by side in the following year’s display — one on a 15-hectare paddy field, and the other on a 10-hectare paddy field. We do get our share of requests from TV and movie production companies; our most recent tanbo art features Shin Godzilla, a Toho production that was released this year. Some of our other notable past tanbo art designs include Gone with the Wind, Star Wars, Marilyn Monroe, as well as important Japanese warriors.

Once the two designs for the following year have been finalised, the next step is the most crucial part of the entire process: scaling up the designs on the fields, measuring and marking the outlines of the designs, and deciding on the types of rice fill the outlines. Typically, we plant 12 different kinds of rice to create seven dye-free colours, from dark red to light green. After the outlines have been plotted out on the fields, that’s when we start planting the rice, usually around May.

42

Approximately 300 people are involved in the planting process, some of them from other parts of the country, including ministers from the central government!

We have specially erected a 22-metre tower with an observation deck from which you can view the tanbo art in its entirety. The viewing period for the public starts from mid-June to right before the rice is harvested in October, but the best time to visit is between the beginning of July and end-August because that’s when the colours of the rice are most distinct.

The Best Is Yet To Be In my 12 years as Inakadate’s village chief as well as the head of the tanbo art committee, I have observed that the team gets better and stronger every year. My personal favourite design so far has got to be Gone with the Wind in 2015 — you can easily make out the expressions on each face as they are so remarkably detailed. This goes to show the high level of dedication and expertise of the tanbo art committee.

We are heartened to hear that we have inspired other villages to create their own tanbo art. After all, tanbo art is the pride and joy of Inakadate; it would be our privilege to share our knowledge of the craft with others.”

TEXT TAN LILI

Artistic Gold

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ISSUE 10 July-September 2016 MCI(P)046/08/2015

“OISHII” ‒ a magazine dedicated to the many culinary and gourmet wonders of Japan, from Singapore to the World.

HERB IN AWE Fall in love with the shiso, negi, and myoga

Lid service What does the otoshibuta do?

Fruitful Journey To

amanashi

An EGG-CELLENT Dish!

Check out Chef Yosuke Suga’s beautiful creation

Oishii_Summer 2016_subbed.indd 1

6/16/2016 1:30:31 PM

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N

tools

Bowled Over Despite the advent of technology, the mortar and pestle — also known as suribachi and surikogi — remain must-have tools in most Japanese kitchens.

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are made with marble and granite. The Japanese mortar, however, is made using ceramic, and the surikogi is made with wood. The reason why the Japanese pestle is made from wood is to prevent excessive wear and tear on the suribachi.

Traditionally, wood from the sansho tree is favoured to make the surikogi as it imparts a slight flavour to food.

While food processors are increasingly common these days, many Japanese still prefer the old-school method of grinding their sesame seeds or peanuts with the suribachi and surikogi. That’s because the more traditional method brings out the oils of these foods, enhancing their fragrance.

These tools come in different sizes. However, if you’re on the lookout for one, it’s better to go with one in the larger size to make the process of grinding food a lot easier and to prevent spillage.

More than just being used to grind peanuts and sesame seeds, however, the humble suribachi and surikogi have been credited with the development of a number of dishes, including gomaae (vegetables flavoured with a sauce made from ground sesame), tsumire (fish paste balls) and miso dengaku (konnyaku with a paste of ground miso, mirin and sake). So now you know!

TEXT DENISE LI

T

here are many versions of the suribachi and the surikogi — more commonly known in English as the mortar and pestle — throughout Asian cultures.

These tools have its origins in Southern China, and was introduced to Japan some time around the 11th century.

While they were first used only for preparing medicine and grinding flour, they remain indispensable food preparation tools in many Japanese kitchens today.

What makes the Japanese version of the mortar and pestle so unique, however, is that the inside of the suribachi is unglazed and grooved. The grooves are known as “kushi no me”, so called after the comb-like device that’s used on wet clay to create the uneven surface. The textured surface — usually found in circular or daisy-wheel patterns — help the user more efficiently grind or mash their food, typically sesame seeds, miso, or soft vegetables like cooked potatoes, more efficiently.

The main difference between the Chinese mortar and pestle, and the suribachi and surikogi is that the former

SHABU-SHABU OR SUKIYAKI

YOUR CHOICE YOUR HOT POT SHABU-SHABU

TOMATO SUKIYAKI

best with Japanese Sake.

One of the most popular menu item of the shop. Using only the highest grade Japanese wagyu beef, customers can now enjoy fatty and genuine shabu-shabu that melts in your mouth.

goes very well with red wine.

Using the finest premium Kuroge Wagyu beef, the tartness of tomato blends exquisitely with the sweetness of Warisita stocks, this is super delicious.

The red pepper spice and garlic fragrance will greatly enhance the flavor of your hot pot!

VS. KUROYA SINGAPORE

33 Mohamed Sultan Road, #01-03 S238977 Tel: +65-6734-4740 SMS Reservations +65-9657-9120 Opening Hours: 17:30-24:00 Closed on Sundays

advertorial

What’s Brewing at

Orihara Shoten?

Sample rare autumn sake and pay a visit to the bar’s second outlet in Bangkok.

O

rihara Shoten is a pioneer of sake bars in Singapore, having been around for seven years now. Carrying over 300 types, it has one of the largest selections of sake in Singapore in one place, including unpasteurised and seasonal sakes. About 60 percent of these 300 are exclusive to Orihara.

Freshness, Guaranteed Working closely with its parent company in Japan, Naoki Sato, general manager of Orihara Shoten pulls out all the stops to ensure that the sake it imports from Japan is kept at a constant temperature of 5 degrees Celsius from the moment it leaves the brewery, right until it’s served to customers at Orihara in Singapore. “We use temperature-controlled containers to ship sake to Singapore. There are high costs involved in doing this, but we are particular the quality of the sake we serve at our bar,” shares Sato.

Sato himself is also very much involved in picking out the sake that will eventually be sold at Orihara, and he even makes trips to breweries around Japan to acquaint himself with the owners and taste the sake for himself.

With such a large selection of sake available at Orihara, customers are spoilt for choice. But for these few months, Sato recommends trying the two sake variants that will only be available during the autumn season: hiyaoroshi, and akiagari.

“These have milder, more well-rounded flavours as they have been stored in the brewery for close to a year,” says Sato. “They will pair well with autumn produce such as fatty varieties of fish, mushrooms, and seasonal vegetables.”

From Singapore to Bangkok As testament to sake’s growing popularity around the region, Orihara will be opening its first bar in the Ekamai area of Bangkok — its second in Southeast Asia. “Thailand has a much larger market compared to Singapore, and we definitely see potential for growth in the region,” enthuses Sato.

In a bid to offer something different to Singaporean customers who travel frequently to Bangkok, 30 percent of the lineup at Orihara’s Thai outlet will be made up of sakes that aren’t sold at its Singapore store. All the more reason to pay Orihara Shoten a visit whenever you’re in Bangkok!

Save the Date to Kanpai!

Celebrate World Sake Day right here in Singapore! On 1 October, 2016, enjoy a complimentary glass of sake at Orihara Shoten. Whether you prefer your sake, sweet, dry or rich, there will be one that will surely delight your palate!

46

Orihara Recommends Sample some of Japan’s finest brews, right here.

Hyakujyuro Ookarakuchi Junmai Akadura Alcohol 15% Dry taste

(+12.0) This sake is from Gifu prefecture. Its fragrance is very subtle, but it has a refreshingly dry taste and umami. It also pairs well with a variety of dishes because of its distinctive umami.

Sakunohana Karakuchiginjo Alcohol 15~16% Dry taste

(+8.0) Made using a self-cultivated special rice known as Hitogokochi by a brewery in Nagano prefecture. The rice contributes to this sake’s umami, and it has a soft fragrance. Its taste is light and sharp, is easy to drink, and can be enjoyed cold or warm.

Echigo Tsurukame Junmai Alcohol 15~16% Medium dry taste

(+3.0) This sake made using traditional method, and has won the many prizes in Japan. The flavor of this sake is refreshing and gentle, so it pairs well with many cuisines. This is best enjoyed with your meal.

Kirinzan Blue bottle Junmai Daiginjo Alcohol 15~16% Medium dry taste

(+3.0) This well-balanced sake has clear taste, and comes in a distinctive hexagonal bottle. Its fragrance is rich, elegant and fruity with notes of grape and apple. If you’re on the lookout for a sake as a gift or for special occasions, you can’t do better than this.

Tatenokawa Junmaidaiginjo

Ura Gasanryu Fuuka

drink this while enjoying a meal.

(±0) Ura Gasanryu is a limited edition sake by Gasanryu, and distributed only to a few dealers. Very similar to a junmai daijingjo, this sake has a lovely fragrance, rich umami and is very well-balanced. It’s also easy to drink, and is made using 100 percent Yamadanishiki rice.

Alcohol 15~16% Dry taste (+8.0) This has the umami of rice and leaves a wonderful aftertaste. Having been fermented for a long time, it has a soft umami and calm fragrance, while remaining fresh and sharp on the palate. Because it’s so well-balanced, it’s recommended that you

Alcohol 14~15% Dry taste

Orihara Shoten also stocks season-limited Namazake (生酒) , a non-pasteurised fresh sake; and Genshu (原酒), an undiluted sake as part of its lineup.

Orihara Shoten is located at 11 Unity Street, #01-02 Robertson Walk.

Tel: 6836 5710

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Publisher Takeshi NAITO MEDIA JAPAN PTE LTD 4 Leng Kee Road #04-12 SiS Building Singapore 159088 Tel: +65 6748 1822 E-mail: oishii@mediajapan.sg Website: www.oishii.sg Editor in Chief Chiharu KUWAJIMA Editor Sayaka NAGASHIMA Editorial Partner Material World LLP Designer Gina Ang Emily Ng Manami ONO Photographer Japan: Tomonobu KITAGAWA Singapore: Raymond Toh Printed in Singapore NPE Print Communications Pte Ltd

Distributor DJ Express Services Advertisement Inquiry E-mail: ad@mediajapan.sg Oishii is the publication under Media Japan Pte Ltd. While every effort has been made to ensure that information is correct at the time of print, Media Japan Pte Ltd cannot be held responsible for the outcome of any action or decision based on the information contained in this publication or any websites and publicity materials associated with it.

The publishers and authors do not give any warranty for the completeness or accuracy for this publicationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s content, explanation or opinion. All rights are reserved and no part of this publication may be reproduced in part or in full without the formal written permission of the publisher. Trademarks, logos, copyrights, and depictions contained herein are the properties of their respective trademark and copyrights owners.

Š Media Japan Pte Ltd. All rights reserved.

MCI(P)019/08/2016

Enjoy the live experience of having a delightful conversation with the chefs as they prepare the dishes in front of you! All ingredients are freshly imported from Japan. We, at Takumi Restaurant offer you the authentic Japanese cuisine with luxurious view of Keppel Bay.

Eight precious seats & a very beautiful night view from on the 10th level of OUE Tower are what makes Sushi Mieda a one-of-a-kind dining destination. The brainchild of world renowned one-Michelin star Japanese Kaiseki Master Chef Nobumasa Mieda, Sushi Mieda is an electrifying modern take on Sushi and Kaiseki, an haute dining experience.

Hanami Enishi, a quintessential Japanese Junmai, helmed from Sendai

Takumi Restaurant

SUSHI MIEDA

2 Keppel Bay Vista, #02-01 Marina at Keppel Bay, Singapore 098382 TEL: +65 6271 7414 Opening Hours: Mon-Sun Lunch 12:00-14:30 Dinner 18:00-22:30 http://www.takumirestaurants.com

60 Collyer Quay, Level 10 OUE Tower, Singapore 049322 TEL: +65 8425 7835 Opening Hours: Mon-Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00 Dinner 18:00-22:30 Closed on Sundays http://sushimieda.sg

Hokkaido Otokoyama special junmai hiyaoroshi 720ml

Hokkaido is blessed with a wondrous bounty from both the sea and the land. It is world renowned for the freshness of its seafood and superb quality of beef, vegetables and dairy.

HOKKAIDO IZAKAYA serves the best of Hokkaido's produce from the towns of Yakumo, Akkeshi, Furano and Kamishihoro in a friendly, casual environment.

Hokkaido warm potato salad containing smoked egg

Hokkaido wagyu roast beef

HOKKAIDO IZAKAYA

•95 Tanjong Pagar Road S(088516) Tel: +65 6221 7118 Opening Hours: Mon-Sat Lunch 11:30 - 14:30 (L.O. 14:00) Dinner 18:00 - 24:00 (L.O. 23:00) Sun & PH Lunch 11:30 - 14:30 (L.O. 14:00) Dinner 18:00 - 22:30 (L.O. 21:30)

Hot Soba with kakiage tempura

•435 Orchard Road #04-51 S(238877) Tel +65 6262 3461 Opening Hours: Mon-Fri Lunch 11.30 - 15.00 (L.O. 14:30) Dinner 17.00 - 22.30 (L.O. 21:00) Sat, Sun & PH Lunch 11:00 - 15:00 (L.O. 14:30) Dinner 17:00 - 22:30 (L.O. 21:00) http://www.hokkaidoizakaya.sg/about/

For more than a decade, PJ Partners has been building bridges between the unique cuisines of the world, first introducing exotic international cuisines to Japan, and today, exporting the outstanding Japanese food culture to other countries. PJ Partner currently has 12 restaurants in Japan,8 restaurants in Singapore, 3 in Jakarta and 1 in Hawaii.

PJ Partners Group

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