ISSUE 3 MCI(P)032/08/2014
I Eat, I Shoot ... I Get Interviewed! Singapore’s top food blogger gets grilled about his favourite Japanese dishes.
PARADISE FOUND!
SADO
Nature-lovers and culture buffs will love this magical island
On A Sour Note What you need to know about vinegar
East Meets Chef Emmanuel Stroobant’s dish may be all Japanese but it’s got a French touch.
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Friends Forever
S STORY
KI’ NAGASA
GASAKI’S ST
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A museum in Nagasaki proves that it is possible for a friendship to endure forever.
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s the first place in Japan to receive foreign influences, Nagasaki does indeed live up to its name as a melting pot of different Sh ou kic Ya t- se n( ce nt hi Um ey a(left), Su n re ), To cultures. For one, it is home to a museum exhibiting items ph oto ow ne ku Um ey a(r igh t) d by Ay an o Ko sa ka demonstrating a friendship between two very important men. Sun Yat-sen, hailed as the father of the Chinese Revolution that ge, of Mod ern- Era Exc han The Nag asak i Mus eum toppled the monarchial rule, established a close friendship with Shoukichi Sho ukic hi Sun Yat- sen & Umeya Umeya, a Japanese businessman who born in Nagasaki, and would later be known as one of the founding fathers of the Japanese movie industry. With its close proximity to Canton, Umeya’s studio in Hong Kong was suspected as the gathering place for the revolutionaries. And it was here in 1895, he was introduced to Sun. Both men believed in the promotion of peace within Asia and, after this encounter, Umeya made a pledge to support Sun’s revolutionary cause by helping him raise funds. When Sun was banned from entering Hong Kong by the British for his movement against the Manchus, Umeya arranged and funded his travels to America to speak to and meet with the Chinese living there. It is believed he poured as much as 1 trillion yen into Sun’s revolutionary efforts. The financial muscle that funded Sun’s efforts came rather serendipitously. Prior to his foray into film-making, Umeya had suffered several failures in ventures such as mining and rice speculation. When he was force to flee Hong Kong because of his clandestine revolutionary activities, Umeya brought with him, to Singapore, a projector and several rolls of film. He began screening these films in Singapore to much success, so much so that it inspired him to return to Japan to establish a film-making business. This venture proved to be his most successful, one that enabled him to support Sun with even more money. So deep was this friendship that upon the death of Sun in 1925, Umeya pledged to build seven statues of the Chinese revolutionary, four of which were finished and later presented to China. Housed in the former Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank, the Nagasaki Museum of Modern-Era Exchange, Sun Yat-sen & Umeya Shoukichi, contains many personal items of Umeya such as the letters exchanged between Sun and himself, a diary recording the amount of donations he had given to Sun, calligraphy pieces and photographs. The museum presents visitors with a highly interactive experience, narrating the story of Sun and Umeya through the innovative use of tablet computers and animated display screens. The museum is strategically located across the road from Nagasaki’s international cruise centre where many visitors from China arrive each day. As a symbol of the friendship between Japan and China, the museum makes for an ideal starting point for these visitors to Nagasaki, reminding them that the relationship between the two countries started a long time ago. From there, visitors can then proceed to explore Nagasaki’s myriad of fusion cuisines such as the champon noodles - a Chinese culinary invention created in 1899 to meet the needs of hungry Chinese students who travelled to Nagasaki to study.
contents
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Falling For Japan One reason is enough to rule
Find out why Sado Island is
the “season of eating”.
considered one of Japan’s
From Singapore to World
PICASSO’S LOVER©TAMA-CHAN
What The Doctor Ordered prominent food bloggers
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Vim, Vigour, and Vinegar used as a popular ingredient in cooking, Japanese vinegar
best-kept travel secrets.
Baking Dreams Come True Three Japanese patisserie chefs whip up insider tips on
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reveals his go-to in Singapore.
Did you know: Besides being
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all over the world.
One of Singapore’s most
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The Magical Sado Island
them all: Autumn is known as
Can’t-miss Japanese food events
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the art of baking.
You Say “Sweet Potato”, We Say “Satsumaimo” There are a myriad ways to prepare one of Fall’s favourite
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harvests, including these.
She’s On A Roll If you think you’ve seen all
can also be consumed as a
kinds of sushi, you’ll be in for
beverage!
a great shock when you flip to
Cultural Exchange
this page.
Chef Emmanuel Stroobant shares one of St Pierre’s signature dishes that highlights uniquely Japanese ingredients.
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Takayama Festival
Dobinmushi, Matsutake mushroom soup Grilled sanma
Falling for Japan Amazing food, eye-popping festivals … there is really no better time to visit Japan than in Autumn.
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utumn is commonly known in Japan as (shokuyoku no aki), which means the “season of eating”. That alone is reason enough to pay Japan a visit during the fall months! Autumn is the season of harvests, and almost all the festivals during this period are in celebration of this. In preparation for the cold, wintry months, expect a lot of starchy, carb-laden dishes made from root vegetables such as yam and sweet potato, as well as fatty fish.
FISHY BUSINESS Speaking of fish, the one that’s most commonly associated with autumn is Sanma, also known as Pacific saury or mackerel pike. In autumn, currents from the Pacific bring huge schools of Sanma to the Japanese coast. This wonderfully fatty fish is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, and is usually grilled over an open flame. All it needs is a little salt or soy sauce, as well as grated daikon, to enhance its delicate flavours. So celebrated is this fish that there is a whole festival — known as Sanma Matsuri - dedicated to it, held in Tokyo on September 9. At the Tanjo Hachiman
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Shrine, close to Meguro station, about 6,000 of this fish will be freshly grilled and handed out for free throughout the day. Definitely worth checking out if you happen to be Japan’s capital city during that period.
SPECTACLES NOT TO BE MISSED Another fall festival not to be missed is the Takayama Festival, centred around the Sakurayama Hachiman Shrine. It is one of the three most beautiful festivals in Japan. Held annually on October 9 and 10 as locals start their preparations for winter, the most noteworthy aspect of the festival has to be the 11 elaborate floats known as yatai. Make no mistake; these aren’t ordinary floats. Dating back to the 17th century, they were designed and decorated with intricate carvings of gilded wood and detailed metalwork. When night falls, chochin lanterns are lit on the floats, and each float is adorned with a moving puppet, making for an even more spectacular sight. If you’ve always been curious what 17th century Japan was like, you’ll want to check out the Shuki Taisai Grand Autumn Festival in Nikko. Consisting of
a mikoshi, or portable shrine, and a samurai procession of about 800 people carrying guns, spears, bows and arrows, and an assortment of other weapons, this ceremony is said to be a reproduction of the funeral ceremony of the first shogun of Tokugawa. Tsukimi, or “moon-viewing” is a much celebrated and important Japanese fall tradition. It’s the one day in autumn that the Japanese take time to appreciate the full moon. They’ll take the chance to make offerings of rice dumplings, Japanese pampas grass, as well as seasonal fruit and vegetables to the moon.
HEARTY BITES You’ll want to be mentally prepared for lots of eating if you’re planning to visit Japan in fall. A must-try delicacy is Dobinmushi, or Matsutake mushroom soup. These prized mushrooms have a delicate smokey flavour that is enhanced by a vegetable or bonito broth, with a little chicken or shrimp. It’s no secret that Japanese cuisine is heavily reliant on rice. The most prized rice is Shinmai, or the first harvest of rice. It’s believed to be sweeter and moister than any other kind of rice, and is enjoyed in a variety of ways around Japan. If you’re after a sweet end to your meal, be sure to try a tasty Kaki, or persimmon, as they are in season during this period. Happy feasting!
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opening notes
events
A Year of Good Food In the spirit of re-invention, Japanese F&B industries bring their latest innovations to the world in these must-visit events.
SINGAPORE World Food Fair 11 to 14 September 2014 In its 11th edition, the World Food Fair features a taste of world cuisines, including your favourite Japanese treats. Japanese Food & Restaurant Expo 4 October 2014 Touted as the country’s “largest showcase of Japanese food, sake, and specialty supplies,” this event is a must-visit. Look out for the presentation of Miyazaki Wagyu, the highest rated beef in Japan, as well as lessons on knife care with Mitsuo Hirano of the worldrenowned Tsukiji Masamoto Knives.
NEW YORK CITY, USA
CHIBA, JAPAN Agri World 2014 15 to 17 October 2014 Agri World brings together agricultural industry professionals and suppliers from around the world to showcase the latest in agricultural technologies.
TOKYO, JAPAN Food Safety Day 30 October 2014 Safety in food production and distribution can never be emphasised enough. This event gives you the opportunity to exchange ideas and network with 400 other food safety experts from across Asia. Connecting Asia to Japan Business Match-Making event 4 to 5 November 2014 With the popularity of Japanese-made agricultural and marine products on the rise, this is the trade show you can’t miss. Connect with over 70 buyers in this event held at Marina Bay Sands Expo and Convention Centre.
SINGAPORE
TOKYO, JAPAN BioFach Japan 20 to 22 November 2014 BioFach Japan is Asia’s leading trade fair for organic products, ranging from food products to cosmetics and textiles.
SINGAPORE Oishii Japan 16 to 18 October 2014 Back for its third edition, this exhibition is Asia’s largest dedicated Japanese F&B showcase, bringing together food, drinks, and related equipment from all over Japan.
TOKYO, JAPAN Supermarket Trade Show 10 to 12 February 2015 85,000 professional supermarket buyers from across the globe will gather at this trade show, which features unique products from all over the world. TOKYO, JAPAN Caterex Japan 17 to 20 February 2015 With an international demand for Japanese food, this exhibition showcases the latest in hospitality, food service and catering industries.
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interview
What the Doctor
ORDERED
Ki-sho
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Tatsuya
hen I returned to Singapore in 2006 after living many years overseas, I started looking for information online about where to find the best hawker food. Other than through forums and what my friends knew, such info wasn’t that easy to come by. I started to chronicle my food journeys through pictures, and ieatishootipost.sg was born. It’s been eight years since I started my food blog, and it’s since evolved. Now, most of my fan engagement and interaction take place on Facebook. The ieatishootipost Facebook fan page has more than 100,000 Likes, and its growth has been both humbling and gratifying. I never started out wanting to play the numbers game; I’ve always been about consistently putting out interesting content — using beautiful photographs and well-researched information — and I’m happy to see my efforts have paid off. Also, I believe in writing about places I truly enjoy dining at; I will never accept payment for writing about any eatery as I believe it is important to remain objective at all times. Although the bulk of my entries is about local food – especially hawker food – Japanese food comes a close second. The Japanese dining scene in Singapore has really blossomed over the last five to 10 years. What I appreciate about Japanese food is its simplicity and attention to detail: The focus is always, first and foremost, on the freshness of its produce. After that, it’s all about the details: The type of soya sauce used; the temperature it’s cooked at; why the chef chooses one method of preparation over another. The Japanese recognise that when they have ingredients in prime condition and quality, half their job is done.
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MORE ABOUT THE GOOD DOCTOR
Dr Leslie Tay is a doctor by day, and a food blogger when not tending to his patients. His blog, ieatishootipost.sg is one of Singapore’s most widely read food blogs. Dr Tay is considered one of the leading authorities on food in Singapore, and he’s appeared on numerous local TV programmes. He’s also published two books, The End of Char Kway Teow and Other Hawker Mysteries and his recently updated ultimate food guide to hawker food, Only the Best, which has just hit bookstores.
Some of my favourite Japanese restaurants in Singapore include Tatsuya, Hashida Sushi Singapore, and Ki-sho. They may be high-end but you get what you pay for: I’ve never been disappointed with a meal at these places. I have a particular fondness for sushi, out of all the types of Japanese food. That’s because I love the entire experience of sitting at a sushi bar, watching the chef prepare the sushi, and asking him loads of questions, particularly to find out more about the rationale behind his choice of ingredients. Having done more than my fair share of research on sushi, I find that chefs are usually happy to share their experience once they find out that I know a little more about sushi than the average person on the street. I do understand that Japanese chefs face certain constraints when it comes to preparing food for customers outside of Japan. Let me give you an example. Once, I visited a sukiyaki restaurant here, and I asked the chef, “Why is the flavour of the broth so weak?” He said it’s because his customers like to drink the soup, and as a result, he had to make it considerably more diluted than usual. But that’s not what sukiyaki is all about. I would also love to see more specialty Japanese restaurants in Singapore focusing on a particular aspect of the cuisine and doing it very well. Why not have more places that specialise in serving up a really good tempura or even a gyu-don (beef bowl)? We’re used to izakaya-style casual restaurants where we can order anything and everything, but with these places, we cannot expect the quality of the food to be astounding. I think once we start appreciating authentic Japanese food for what it is, we’ll see an even greater improvement in the standards of Japanese restaurants here.
TEXT DENSIE LI IMAGES DR LESLIE TAY
Dr Leslie Tay, the man behind one of Singapore’s most prominent food blogs ieatishootipost, tells us where we should go for Singapore’s best sushi.
flavours
Vinegar
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Vim, Vigour, and
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The beauty of Japanese vinegar is it’s not just used in cooking, but for a myriad of other purposes as well.
apanese vinegar is one of the five key ingredients used in Japanese cooking, and can be made from fermented rice or mixed grains. Mixed grain vinegar is usually made from corn, wheat, and other assorted grains. Rice vinegar is created through a fermentation process where sugars, or carbohydrates, are converted into acetic acid. Acetic acid forms the basis for vinegar’s distinct flavour, colour, and aroma. Unlike other Asian vinegars, Japanese vinegar is very mild and mellow, both in terms of taste and colour. It ranges from being colourless to a pale yellow, and has a mild flavour with slight hints of sweetness. Awasezu (blended vinegar) is a popular type of Japanese vinegar where different ingredients are added to the vinegar to create different flavours. Without it, the ubiquitous sushi rice would have none of that distinctive sharp flavour. Sushi-zu (Sushi vinegar) is made with a blend of sake, salt, sugar, and on occasion, mirin. Although you can prepare this concoction at home, most people opt to buy ready-made sushi-zu at supermarkets.
Apart from being used in sushi, Japanese vinegar is also used in a wide variety of dishes, such as sunomono, which are dishes — typically seafood and vegetables — that have been seasoned with vinegar-based dressings. Other permutations include tsukemono (pickled vegetables), which can be served as a side dish, a snack, or a simple garnish for meals, as well as nimono (simmered dishes). The latter is usually prepared using a base ingredient such as a vegetable, fish, seafood, or tofu, that is simmered in dashi stock until the liquid is absorbed into the base ingredient. dashi stock is typically a blend of Japanese vinegar, Sake, and soy sauce. Other condiments such as mirin, miso, sugar or salt can be used to enhance the flavour. In addition, Japanese vinegar is also occasionally added to marinades to temper the robust flavours of certain fishes or meats. The versatility of this condiment also extends to beverages. Several vinegar-based brews are also popular as health beverages, as you’ll soon discover in the following pages.
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Vim, Vigour and Vinegar
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here are two main types of Japanese rice vinegar - blended (awasezu) and unseasoned. The former usually has sake, sugar, and salt added whereas a pure rice vinegar is less acidic and tastes slightly sweet. The general consensus among cooks is that brewed Japanese rice vinegar has a milder flavour compared to say, cider vinegar or distilled vinegar. This is because Japanese rice vinegar contains the least amount of acetic acid - between 4 to 4.3 percent. Distilled and cider vinegars usually have about 5 percent acidity while wine vinegar has acid levels as high as 7 percent. However, the milder flavour of Japanese rice vinegar does not just lie in its lower acidity, but in its balanced and nuanced complexity. This complex taste profile is a result of its biologically complicated manufacturing process. One of the most popular variants among Japanese families is the classic Mizkan Rice Vinegar, which is still brewed using the traditional Mizkan manufacturing process that originated in Japan over 200 years ago. One of the ways of enjoying Japanese rice vinegar is as a healthier alternative for vinaigrettes. As it has a less pungent flavour, you can use a higher ratio of vinegar to oil. This refreshing and palatable condiment is best enjoyed sprinkled over raw or cooked vegetables, or even on potatoes and pasta. Aside from enhancing the taste profile of certain dishes, vinegars can also help to reduce bitterness and balance out the dish’s flavours. Vinegar also helps break down protein fibers so if you need to tenderise meat, try adding Japanese vinegar into your marinade or braising liquid. Or, if you need to improve the colour of vegetables, a dash of Japanese vinegar into the pot of water should do the trick.
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ice Vinegar R
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Fruit
Vinegar
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ruit-infused vinegar is a popular beverage with the Japanese, especially women in their 20s and 30s, and is readily available in convenience stores and department stores across Japan. One of the main reasons for its popularity is how it leaves the drinker feeling “fuller” and more satisfied, which some people believe helps promote weight loss efforts. In addition, the different types of fruits also offer different health and nutritional benefits to the drinker. Because fruit vinegar is too sour to be consumed on its own, manufacturers came up with the idea of diluting it with juice from the same fruits, and it proved to be a hit with consumers. Some of the more common flavours include apple, citrus, pear, and blueberry, but there also exists a mind-boggling range of exotic flavours such as lychee, dragonfruit, and rosehip. Initially, sceptics dismissed fruit vinegars as a passing summer fad (like desalinated deep-sea water from Hawaii, for example). However, it looks like the trend is here to stay, with designated vinegar sommeliers at department stores dishing out advice on aroma and clarity. Drinking fruit vinegar is a nosetingling and refreshing affair, but it’s not just a delicious thirst-quencher. Many people also elect to sip on the drink after and between meals to aid digestion. This is especially welcomed after a heavy or particularly salty meal. You can also add fruit vinegar to other beverages like seltzer, flat water, tea or even a smoothie, for a delightful sweet-sour pop to your palate.
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Vim, Vigour and Vinegar
Black Vinegar
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IMAGE 7142621 | TAKAHIDE1013 • WWW.PIXTASTOCK.COM
K
urozu (black vinegar), sometimes also known as brown rice vinegar, is produced and consumed in Japan as a health tonic. Black vinegar is believed to have been introduced to Kagoshima, Japan from China some 200 to 300 years ago. In China, black vinegar is typically made with black glutinous rice (also known as “sweet rice”), although millet or sorghum is occasionally used. In Japan, however, producers of black vinegar need to adhere to certain label requirement standards. In 2003, the Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Ministry in Japan issued a set of standards, which dictated black vinegars need to be made with at least 180 grams of brown rice per litre in order to be labelled as “black vinegar.” Pundits believe the popularity of black vinegar as a health drink took off after this new ruling. Made from unpolished rice, the fermentation process for black vinegar takes anywhere between one to three years. Because of this long and complicated fermentation process, it develops a subtle, nuanced aroma. The flavour is not as intense as rice or grain vinegars, and has a hint of sweetness. During its fermentation period, the amount of vitamins, minerals, and amino acids increases, contributing to its high nutritional content. One of the reasons for the popularity of black vinegar is the belief that it helps with weight loss. According to a study conducted by researchers in Kyushu, black vinegar helps reduce the size of fat cells, known as adipocytes, in mice. The theory is, the acetic acid found in black vinegar triggers the production of proteins that help the body break down fat. However, unless this effect is reproduced in humans, it cannot be considered as a weight loss aid. Weight loss aside, the high nutritional content of black vinegar also contributes to a slew of purported health benefits. First, the high amounts of amino acids and other nutrients found in black vinegar act as a deterrent against the buildup of lactic acid in your blood. Having too much lactic acid in your blood can lead to fatigue, sore muscles, feelings of irritability, and disease. Black vinegar works to detoxify your body and balance out its pH level. Second, the warming nature of black vinegar can help improve overall blood flow and circulation as well as counteract against symptoms of high blood pressure. Finally, some people practice using black vinegar as a topical healant for disinfecting cuts, insect bites or as a skin dressing. Some people have even used it to help speed up healing for fractured bones, relieve pain from sprains, and even to treat athlete’s foot.
Upon its founding in 1804, our company successfully started making vinegar out of sake kasu (or sake lees). Sake lees vinegar gained a strong reputation as an ideal core ingredient for nigiri sushi and spread across the country with the rising popularity of nigiri sushi. Since then, we have continually improved our product, resulting in ongoing demand for Mizkan vinegar over the years. We have also developed new products such as soup bases, dipping sauces, and seasonings for rice dishes. This has allowed us to make a significant contribution to the growth of the japanese food culture. While being the number one vinegar manufacturer in Japan, we have also successfully established top brands such as Ajipon™ (citrus seasoned soy sauce) and Oigatsuo™ (soup base). Since our entry into the natto or fermented soybeans business in 1997, we have continually developed new products that offer greater health benefits and an improved flavor under the Kin no Tsubu™ brand.
No.1 VINEGAR BRAND IN JAPAN
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artistic
creation
Exchange
CHEF EMMANUEL STROOBANT He’s been in Singapore since 1999, opening his first restaurant, St Pierre, in December 2000. Today, there are 10 F&B establishments under six brands in the Emmanuel Stroobant Group: St Pierre, Brussels Sprouts, Rocks Urban Grill + Bar, Picotin Express, Sque Rotisserie & Alehouse, and Blue Lotus Chinese Eating House.
“F
rench and Japanese cuisine have a lot in common, especially when it comes to seasonal ingredients. For instance, mushroom season happens at the same time in Japan and France. Both cultures are also particular where food presentation and the training of chefs are concerned, and have a lot of respect for the produce, producers, and farmers. There are also similarities in cooking techniques, such as grilling, frying, steaming and poaching. Personally, I believe that simple, fresh, seasonal ingredients do not require much transformation. It’s about enhancing their natural flavours. This miso cod I’ve prepared here is a good example of that. It is black cod brushed with a white miso, and garnished with daikon wrap, poached baby spinach, sesame seeds, jade eggplant, fresh poached shitake, dashi consommé, and a sushi rice ball. This dish has been one of St Pierre’s signature dishes since it opened in the year 2000. The garnishes change every three months, depending on what’s in season, so I could use either nasu or shitake mushrooms for this dish. Both ingredients are prepared following a French braising method. While I don’t visit Japan all that often – perhaps once every three or four years – I do work with Japanese chefs every now and then. Recently, I collaborated with Hideaki Matsuo, a three Michelin-starred chef from the restaurant Kashiwaya in Osaka, for Diner Des Grands Chefs Singapour in May 2014. When I do visit Japan, however, food is always the main focus of my trip. I like to place my orders by just pointing at the menu, not really knowing what’s going to end up in front of us. I also love discovering new producers and ingredients, with the hope of bringing some of the latter back home to Singapore.
St Pierre is located at #01-15 Quayside Isle. Tel: 6438 0887
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TEXT DENISE LI PHOTOGRAPHY: RAYMOND TOH/VINEYARD PRODUCTION
Cultural
The Magical SADO ISLAND
TEXT TAN LILI PHOTOGRAPHY MASANORI KAWAGUCHI / SYUNSUKE SHII / KATSUYOSHI SEKINE
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ocated 45 kilometres off the coast of Niigata prefecture, in the Chubu region of Japan, Sado Island is the sixth largest island in the country. It consists of two parallel mountain ranges – the Osado range in the northwest, and the Kosado range in the southeast. Kuninaka Plain, the flat land nestled between the two, is the most populated area of Sado Island and is home to seemingly endless acres of rice fields. Coupled with the surrounding Sea of Japan, Sado Island’s incredibly rich natural environment offers a diversity of landscapes with spectacular views like no other. In fact, thanks a deep-rooted sense of community fostered among the locals to preserve and protect the island’s verdant forests and mountainous terrain, a bulk of Sado Island is designated as a quasi-national park by the national government. From trekking and cycling to simply sightseeing, nature-loving visitors will be hardpressed to leave the unspoiled natural beauty that makes up Sado Island! Like a tale as old as time, it is said that life flourished on this island around the 8th century when the whole of Japan was still being formed as a country. Also around the time, Sado Island served as a penal colony for political exiles due to the island’s remote location, but it was also thanks to some of these highly cultured imprisoned residents – including ex-Emperor Juntoku and Buddhist monk Nichiren – that a unique Sado culture was born. Adding another layer of cultural distinction to Sado Island is the gold and silver mining operation by samurai officials during the Edo period in the 17th and 18th centuries, during which traditional arts and entertainment like Noh were introduced to the locals. Today, you can experience the intriguing history and cultural diversity of Sado Island through the myriad activities and tours available. Sado Island would be sorely misrepresented if we didn’t mention their food, glorious food. The four discernible seasons can be characterised by Sado Island’s wonderfully fresh seasonal produce, whose rich and enhanced flavours are the result of the island’s lush mountains, fertile plains and abundantly stocked seas. Over the next few pages, you’ll find out exactly why Sado Island is considered one of Japan’s best-kept travel secrets. Disclaimer: We shall not be held responsible for any sudden surge of wanderlust!
佐渡 Sado City
o d a s O Ryotsu
a k a n i Kun do a s o K Ogi
Kosado Mountains
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feature
Homecooked
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DELICACIES
f there’s one thing to be said about the people of Sado, it’s that they are nothing if not unyieldingly dedicated. With timehonoured culinary traditions and easy access to quality produce (as you’re about to find out on the next page), you can expect no less than a gastronomical affair for a typical homecooked meal in Sado. It’s no wonder, then, that a Sado feast prepared for special occasions such as weddings would be deemed fit for
A typical Sado feast consists of three ingredients: a generous helping of high-quality local produce, layers of traditions, and a whole lot of heart.
royalty. Served on traditional Japanesestyle lacquered tray-tables, a banquet meal comprises various small and artistically arranged dishes, each an evidence of the time and labour poured into creating it. Because of the self-sustaining farming system in Sado, many local families are able to easily get – if not grow their own garden of – fresh herbs and vegetables throughout the year. Some popular local dishes include: Sado nishime, a simmering pot of vegetable stew made up of
radishes, carrots and bamboo shoots; grilled eggplants and peppers with bonito flakes; homemade fishcakes with shiso (basil) paste; freshly picked mountain vegetables served raw or lightly marinated; and grilled squid topped with goro (the intestines of the squid) and miso paste. Of course, when you are in Sado, no banquet is complete without a bowl or two of koshihikari, a much-revered variety of Japanese short-grain rice. Koshihikari is also often used as sushi rice for futomaki (a large cylindrical sushi roll with three or more fillings) as well as inarizushi (a pocket of fried tofu-wrapped sushi rice) – these sushi dishes are usually served on a large communal tray for sharing.
Food
Sado Produce BEST OF
Rice The first in Japan to be recognised as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS), Sado is renowned for their locally-cultivated koshihikari, the crown jewel of Japanese short-grain rice that is distinguishable by its slight stickiness and sweet, nutty taste. One interesting thing about most rice farms in Sado is their active involvement in the conservation of toki, the Japanese crested ibis (read more about toki on p25). To attract toki to their farms, some farmers use organic fertilisers as well as add dojo loach, tiny eel-like fish on which toki feeds.
Surrounded by the Sea of Japan and enveloped in lush green foliage, Sado Island is a treasure trove of all-year-round culinary delights. Here, we take a look at some of the finest local produce.
Igoneri (Seaweed)
Seafood Thanks to the combination of warm and cold currents off the shores of Sado, the seas are abundantly stocked with various kinds of fish and shellfish such as yellowtail, mackerel, tuna, squid and abalone. Every day, tireless fishermen haul in their early-morning’s catch to Sado’s only fish market, as eager wholesale fish traders await to bid for the finest. Another popular local seafood delicacy is oyster. Farmed in Mano Bay and Kamo Lake, there are two types of oysters in Sado: iwa gaki (natural rock oysters) in summer, and cultivated oysters in winter.
Beef Osada, the northern mountain range of Sado, is famed for its largely untouched natural environment, boasting endless acres of beautiful pastures along the coastline. The gentle sloping plateau atop the rolling hills is the ideal breeding ground for cows, whose 100-percent grass-fed meat makes up one of Sado’s coveted produce.
A common dish in Sado since the early days, the jelly-like igoneri is made from just two ingredients: water and igogusa, a type of parasitic seaweed. The traditional method of making igoneri involves manually stirring the boiled igogusa to remove impurities – a process still employed by Hayasukeya, a family-run ignoeri maker. Low in calories and high in dietary fibre, igoneri is cut into noodle-like strips and usually served with vinegar.
Sake While the number of sake breweries in Sado has seen a drastic drop from 200 during the Edo period to seven today, the island is still acclaimed for producing dry, clean sake due to the abundance of rice fields and mountain-filtered freshwater. In fact, several varieties of Sado’s sake have been selected as the house sake by airlines and restaurants globally. One prominent Sado sake brewery is Obata Shuzo; Manotsuru, the 120-year-old brewery’s brand of sake, has received numerous accolades. Another worthy mention is Kaifu Hakko, a humble brewery specialising in producing doburoku – unfiltered sake that results in its cloudy appearance. The brewery also produces non-alcoholic sake known as amazake, in both beverage and yoghurt forms. Scan for OISHIITV!
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Food
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Food
FANTASY ISLAND Sample the exquisite goodness of Sado’s produce through these scrumptious dishes.
Burikatsu-don Located just across the famous Meoto-iwa “Husband and Wife” rock formation, the Meoto-iwa Drive Inn serves up a local dish known as Burikatsu-don (deep-fried yellowtail fish cutlet with rice). Prepared using 100-percent local produce - from the soy sauce to the yellowtail fish and koshihikari rice - Burikatsu-don is a refreshing change from the more popular katsu-don, pork cutlet rice. The special soy sauce that is drizzled over the fish cutlet perfectly complements the latter, which is crispy on the outside and flavourful on the inside.
Ikagoro What started as a common fisherman’s dish, ikagoro – squid fried with miso paste, butter, spices and goro (intestine of the squid) – has now become one of Sado’s specialties. It is available at Takeya, a charming restaurant run by an adorable and hospitable husband-wife team. Served with rice, a small dish of pickles and a bowl of miso soup, the ikagoro is prepared on your dining table via a portable cooker. It’s a simple dish with complex flavours, and its gravy goes amazingly well with rice – quite the comfort food, if we do say so ourselves!
Sushi With no shortage of fresh seafood in Sado all year round, you are bound to come across some genuinely good sushi restaurants throughout the island. Amidst the main shopping area in Sawata lies one such sushi joint: Riki Sushi. What this omakase-style restaurant lacks in space, it more than makes up for in its exceptionally tasty sushi, thanks to the sushi chef’s esoteric knowledge of seafood. Interestingly, not all seafood is served fresh. The abalone, for example, is boiled for hours until the meat becomes tender. Knowing when each type of seafood has reached its optimum time to be eaten – at its most enhanced texture and flavour – that is truly the mark of a great sushi master.
A FRESH TOUCH Ogi Soba Buckwheat noodles, or ogi soba, are a must-try in Sado for their unique flavour and method of eating. Traditionally made using a stone mill, the buckwheat flour adds a nutty flavour to the noodles. This flavour is enhanced by the accompaniment of tobiuo flying fish broth, which is poured over, not served as a dip for, the noodles. Shichiemon, a 220-year-old soba joint located near Ogi Harbour, serves only one type of hand-cut soba. As each serving is small, you’d likely end up ordering at least three bowls for yourself!
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There is no denying that authenticity would always come up tops, but for these restaurants that dared to defy culinary norms, they bring to Sado a muchwelcomed refreshing edge. A must-visit is Kaifuso Inn at the quaint village of Seki. Inspired by the original curry rice served at the swanky Shiseido Parlour in Ginza, Tokyo, the chef whipped up his own version to inject an element of change into the local palate. Meanwhile, Restaurant Seisuke, a strictly reservation-only restaurant, serves up a fusion of Italian, French and Japanese cuisines. The chef/owner, who used to own a French restaurant in Sydney, Australia, feels he can better express his creativity in Sado, what with the freedom to experiment with different kinds of fresh ingredients. Lovers of all-things bread will adore Shima Fumi, a European-style bakery café that offers a plethora of mouthwatering baked goods.
Sado
People
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Meet The People of
Tadaaki Aida, Aida Farm Sado Super Koshihikari
A firm promoter of the development of Sado, Aida has no qualms about sharing his rice farming method with other local producers – he believes it would improve the overall quality of rice in Sado and, in the long run, help in the development of the city. Well, seems to us that’s a philosophy worth learning! Tell us more about your rice farm. My family and I have a very meticulous method of harvesting the rice – we would walk around our 13-hectare rice field (that’s the size of almost 30 football fields!) once a week to manually adjust the fertilisers. The weather is unpredictable, but at least we can control the quality of our rice crop. Another unique feature of Aida Rice Farm is our oyster shell system. Together with the use of organic fertilisers, the oyster shell powder works to enhance the flavour of our rice, giving it its characteristic sweetness and slight stickiness. So, we hear the endangered Japanese crested ibis, or toki, like to visit your farm? Yes, it’s become a rather common sight. The toki was made endangered due to human activity; it’s wholly our responsibility to revive the species. After years of conservation, it seems they are coming back to share this living environment with humans, and it’s our mission to find the perfect balance between humans and the toki to ensure harmony. Why do you think Sado is ideal for rice farming? Sado Island is surrounded by the Sea of Japan, which brings with it a salty sea breeze that enhances the flavour of our rice. At the same time, we are on a flat-land area (ideal for rice farming), and the air is generally clean. We are very fortunate to be so strategically located. Rice farming aside, what do you personally like about Sado? Oh, I love matsuri (festivals). Everyone comes together to celebrate the good harvest with plenty of sake and laughter – which, to me, is the spirit of matsuri. Another great thing about Sado is the Sado breeze. I’m not talking about the sea breeze; the tradition, culture and smile of the Sado people is palpable through the Sado breeze, and I genuinely hope visitors can experience this breeze when they are here, too.
Akiko Watanabe, Hana no Ki
Her graceful and gentle demeanour would instantly put one at ease. We speak to the director of Hana no Ki, a 150-year-old Japanese farm house she and her husband (pottery artist Tosei Watanabe) opened in 1995, as she shares with us her Sado story. What prompted your move to Sado? My cancer-stricken father was told he had two years left to live, so we decided to uproot our lives in Nagoya and move to Sado 39 years ago in the hope of a peaceful few years for my father. The amazing thing is, after moving to Sado, he survived for another 33 happy years. You also produce your own brand of camellia oil. What inspired it? Camellia trees typically attract a lot of bugs, but not the trees in Sado. The trees here are also strong enough to withstand harsh winter conditions. I thought it would be a waste of
nature’s gift not to revive it. But the real motivation was my father – camellia oil is known to reduce blood cholesterol levels, which would do my sickly father good at the time. What are the other benefits of camellia oil? It is very moisturising for the skin, and can be used to soothe skin problems such as eczema. What do you like most about Sado? The nature here is breathtaking. I can truly feel it whenever seasons change. Also, the people of Sado are very down-to-earth; I could wear clothes with holes and not worry about getting judged!
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Sado
: A Melting Pot of Cultures Steeped in centuries-old tradition, Sado is quite the mix bag of cultural identities that makes the island so fascinating. Join us as we travel back in time to experience the birth of Sado’s historical sites. Sado Kinzan Gold Mine Discovered in 1601 during the Edo era, Sado Kinzan was the largest gold and silver mining operation in Japan, spanning 400km in length and producing nearly 400kg of precious metals. A can’t-miss photo opportunity is the significant view of the mountain at the alleged first mining site, Aikawa Gold and Silver Mine. The split at the top of the mountain, known as Dohyuh-no-Wareto, was the result of hand-digging since machinery was yet to be introduced at the time. After the Meiji Restoration in 1868, revolutionary mining technologies and tools were developed. These include the Odate Shaft, Japan’s first vertical tunnel; a cableway for hauling gravel, which led to the invention of ski lift; and the Kitawaza Floatation and Dressing Plant, the largest plant of its kind in Asia in the 1930s. The operation was closed just recently in 1989, but two of the main routes as well as a comprehensive museum are now open to the public. Filled with animatronic miners and informative displays, the first route explores a few restored tunnels from the Edo era, while the second details some of the newer mines formed since the Meiji period. Sado Kinzan is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site candidate for industrial properties.
Mumyoi-yaki Closely related to Sado’s iconic gold mines, mumyoi is the name of the red soil from the mine shafts. The pottery produced by mixing mumyoi with clay is coined Mumyoi-yaki, a nearly 200-year-old craft that is unique to Sado. It wouldn’t have thrived if not for the Sekisui family, who launched a fine arts movement in the late 19th century to promote and preserve Mumyoiyaki. Today, Sekisui Ito, who was appointed a Living National Treasure in 2003, continues to inspire through his Mumyoi-yaki creations. The modest potter is revered for his neriage pieces, which employ a meticulous technique of layering, cutting and combining different colours of clay to create elaborate floral patterns. Visitors can marvel at his creations at Ito Sekisui Memorial Museum, which also showcases a history of his family’s art pieces.
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Sights
Seisuiji Harking back to the Daido era in 806, Seisuiji is one of the oldest temples in Sado Island. Rumour has it that a Buddhist monk had wanted a temple at which the locals could pray so they wouldn’t have to travel to the famous Kiyomizudera (Pure Water) Temple in Kyoto, hence a replica – Seisuiji – was erected. Walking around the peaceful compound that is nestled in a forest, you are bound to be charmed and humbled by the historical significance of the temple.
Shukunegi
Aikawa Kyomachi-dori During the gold rush days of the early Edo era, the historical town of Aikawa used to be abuzz with activity and was home to Sado Magistrate’s Office, the former Aikawa Detention House, as well as myriad business owners. Take a stroll along the old town and check out the main street, Kyomachi-dori, where summer festivals are still held today. Be prepared for an uphill walk, then treat yourself to a cuppa at Kyomachi Chaya, a traditional teahouse perched on the top of the hill. Overlooking the scenic Mano Bay and surrounded by greenery, the teahouse makes for the perfect respite from the hustle and bustle of life.
This 220-year-old village used to be a bustling port during the 17th century to support Sado’s flourishing gold mining business. What’s mesmerising about Shukunegi is its unmarred architectural beauty – densely packed wooden houses connected by stone-paved alleys. Possibly the most famous house is Sankakuya, a ship-shaped building that was recently featured in a Japanese TV commercial. The entire village is open to the public, but there are only two open houses, one of which is Seikuro. Occupied by a wealthy Sado family, the interior of the house is richly decorated with elaborate elements, such as pillars made of pine tree specially cut to highlight the intricate wood patterns. Shukunegi was also renowned for its shipbuilding of sengokubune (large junks), which were used for maritime trading activities and whose replica can be viewed at the nearby Ogi Folk & Sengoku Ship Museum.
Rengebuji The history of this temple harks back to the 14th century, though no one knows for sure how it came about. One thing that wouldn’t escape your notice are the seven thousand hydrangea plants that line the pavements. During the months of June and July when the flowers are in full bloom, the temple comes alive with beautiful splashes of red, fuchsia, blue, white, lavender and violet – a gorgeous sight that’s not to be missed. As you walk further into the compound, you will also be treated to a lovely view of a large pond packed with water lilies.
Taraibune Developed during the Edo period, these wooden tubs were traditionally used for tight turns around the cliffs of Ogi the Peninsula as well as to collect seaweed and abalone. While the taraibune boats are still used for the latter reason today, they mainly serve as a tourist’s attraction. These boats – usually operated by women dressed in traditional Japanese attire – are made of cedar and bamboo, and are noted for their stability on the water. For an unforgettable experience, try riding and rowing the boat yourself at Ogi Harbour (don’t worry, an experienced taraibune rower will be there to show you the ropes!). Scan for OISHIITV!
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Noh When accomplished actor Zeami Motokiyo was exiled to Sado Island during the 15th century, he brought with him the traditional Japanese performance, Noh. Today, there are more than 35 Noh stages across the island – that makes up about one-third of the total number of Noh stages nation-wide! These Noh stages were built on shrines, the oldest one being Daizen Shrine Noh Stage, which was established during the 19th century. One of the more popular Noh plays, Takigi Noh (bonfire Noh performance), takes place at night every year from April to October at various Noh stages in Sado. Even if you don’t understand the language, you’d feel strangely touched by the performance as you sit in the chilly outdoors by the bonfire.
Taiko Drumming You might have heard of the internationally acclaimed taiko drumming troupe Kodo, but did you know they are based in Sado Island? Formed in 1981, Kodo’s performances revolve around the primal beats of taiko drums, which are used in a centuries-old traditional Japanese ritual known as Ondeko (demon drum dance). To try your hand at taiko drumming, head over to Sado Island Taiko Centre. It is home to two enormous taiko drums, one of which is made from a 600-year-old tree trunk.
Oni-daiko Locally known as Ondeko, Oni-daiko, is a 500-year-old traditional masked dance that is exclusive to Sado Island. Dancing to the beats of a single taiko drum, the movements of the performers will probably bring to mind another traditional dance that we are familiar with: the lion dance. Created to ward off evil and invite good fortune and a bountiful harvest, the oni - a spiritual existence that evokes a sense of divinity - dance around the attacking lions to reach the drum. Every Spring, the Oni-daiko troupe of every village perform from door to door, be it a residential home or a business. Integral to the heart and soul of Sado, the dance is also performed at many festivals throughout the year.
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Sights
Nature’sParadise
Of all the facets of Sado, the one thing that touched Oishii contributing writer Tan Lili the most is the island’s spectacular natural beauty. Read on to find out why. “As a nature lover, the sights that greeted me at every turn in Sado left me at once awestruck and humbled. Suffice it so say, the highlight of my trip was the day of nature sight-seeing in Osado, the northwestern part of Sado that makes up a larger part of the island. Along the coastline, the clear waters – coupled with the rugged cliffs and rocks carved out over centuries by the Japan Sea’s strong waves – make for a grand spectacle; while the lush, verdant forests that are largely protected by the government’s conservation group are ideal for hikers and trekkers alike. The day’s itinerary began with a leisurely hike at Ishina Natural Cedar Walkway. One of Japan’s most enchanting forests, it is home to some unique birds and flowers, as well as gigantic sugi (cedar) trees – some of which are over 1,000 years old! Open to the public from end-May to the beginning to November, the guide-free hike covers 800m and takes about an hour to complete. The Ishina Natural Cedar Walkway is part of the Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems (GIAHS), which aims to protect and preserve the rich landscape to support biodiversity. Over at the forest, the walkway was made hiker-friendly, what with wood shavings scattered all over the pavement to soften the ground as well as to prevent it from getting muddy from the rain. The sugi trees are truly a sight to behold. Gnarled and weathered by centuries of wind and snow, the twisted branches of the 20m-tall trees evoke a mythical fairytale realm. At the peak of the hike, which stands at 900m above sea level, is a platform that boasts a panoramic view of the forest. Depending on weather conditions, you’d either be marveling at a mist-filled scenery, or one that overlooks a sea of clouds. One more thing: you’d be hardpressed not to take in greedy gulps of amazingly crisp air inside the dense forest! It is one of the many aspects I sorely missed the moment I returned home.
Japan. To snap the best possible photos, visit this iconic landscape in early Summer (mid-June) – the rock would be carpeted by tobishima kanzou, a rare and unique variety of wild yellow lilies. Just before sunset, we made our way down to Senkaku Bay, a designated Quasi-National Park that is named after Hardanger Bay in Norway for their stunning resemblance. At the top of the observation cliff lies the only aquarium in Sado. Though small in size, the aquarium showcases plenty of interesting marine life. The tour began with a 15-minute glass-bottom boat ride around the bay. You could enjoy the sight of schools of fish swimming about the crystal-clear waters through the glass-bottom. But if you, like me, prefer to soak up the majestic beauty of the fjords, step onto the deck and simply live in the moment. Now, here comes the magical part: Before we got on board the boat, I was given a packet of prawn crackers, intended for the flocks of seagulls around us. The moment my hand was lifted, a flock of them flew in my direction, slowing down as they neared my cracker-wielding fingers. Coupled with the breathtaking backdrop of the sun dipping into the sea, it was an exhilarating feeling like no other – I wish I could bottle it up like a fragrance for whenever I needed a spritz of unadulterated bliss!”
Tale of the Toki
Once upon a time, toki, the Japanese crested ibis (Nipponia nippon), used to roam the skies of Japan in large numbers. Sadly, human activity – destruction of their natural habitat, excessive hunting, etc. – resulted in the species’ depopulation during the Meiji period. Despite artificial breeding attempts, toki became extinct in Japan in 2003. Thankfully, a pair of toki from China was successfully bred in captivity in the Sado Japanese Crested Ibis Preser vation Center in 1999. The 100 new birds were released into the sky in Sado in 2008. Most recently in 2012, three toki chicks had hatched on the island – it marked the first time in 36 years that the species had hatched in the wild in Japan! Today, toki is designated as an internationally protected species, with Sado actively promoting biodiversity in the hope that humans and toki can, as they say, live happily ever after.
Next stop was Onogame. At 167m above sea level, it is one of the three largest rocks in Scan for OISHIITV!
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Souvenirs
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Sado
A Piece of
Because souvenirs are truly the best way to share the memories and joy of your trip with friends and family.
Souvenirs from Sado Kinzan Gold Mine What’s a visit to Sado Kinzan Gold Mine without bringing home some traces of gold with you? The souvenir shop located at the end of the tour is practically glittering with gold-themed items, such as gold jewellery pieces and even ear picks made of gold. Of course, there are plenty of affordable souvenirs as well. From soap wrapped in gold-coloured paper to chocolate “gold bars”, you’re bound to find a gift or two to dazzle your friends back home!
Living National Treasure, Sekisui Ito
Sekisui Ceramic Produced using mumyoi (the name of the red soil derived from gold mine shafts), the pottery, known as mumyoi-yaki, is a craft that is not only unique to Sado but also produced by the legendary Sekisui Ito, whose family played a major role in preserving its art since the late 19th century. At Ito Sekisui Memorial Museum, you can take home a piece of history with you, be it an elaborately crafted vase, chopstick holder, or a teacup set.
Kaifu Hakko Amazake Cream
Sado Natural Tsubaki Base Oil
An awesome souvenir for your non-drinking foodie friends would be the tasty amazake (non-alcoholic) cream from local brewery Kaifu Hakko. The cream – which is produced through low temperature processing – has a texture and taste similar to those of yoghurt, and makes for a great-tasting dessert.
Available at Japanese inn Hana no Ki and founder by the evergraceful owner Akiko Watanabe, this oil, extracted from camellia seeds, is renowned for its skin-loving benefits – it soothes skin problems such as eczema, and moisturises the skin without leaving behind a greasy film. A must-have for every beauty junkie, for sure!
Sado Salt You can’t leave the island without buying a packet of Sado salt. Why, you ask? Well, thanks to the surrounding Sea of Japan, the salt from Sado boasts a unique sweetness and flavour that is produced through a traditional method involving a wood-burning stove. At salt maker Sado Kaza-shiogama, they also produce mojio (seaweed salt). Made using a type of seaweed called arama, it is exclusive to Sado and contains the mineral yodo, which gives the salt a brownish colour as well as an enhanced taste and flavour.
Sakiori pouch Sakiori (traditional Sado woven art) is traditionally made using recycled materials, and can be made into a variety of woven products, from pouches and bags to tablecloths and even kimono sash. They can be found at most retail shops around the island, and make for great souvenirs for those after a sturdy keepsake. Scan for OISHIITV!
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Listings
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Taraibune 184 Ogimachi, Sado-city, Niigata 952-0604 Tel: 0259-86-3153 Senkaku Wan 1561 Kitaebisu, Sado-city, Niigata 952-2133 Tel: 0259-75-2311
Shopping Igoneri - Super markets & shops in Sado City Sake - Obata Shuzo 449 Manosinmachi, Sado-city, Niigata 952-0318 Tel: 0259-55-3171 Mumyoyi-yaki – Sekisui Ito Memorial Musium 808 Shimoaikawa, Sado-city, Niigata 952-1501 Tel: 0259-74-0011 Sea Salt - Meotoiwa kanko 1267-5 Takase, Sado-city, Niigata 952-1645 Tel: 0259-76-2511
Dining / Food Ikagoro - Takeya 1-5-3 Aikawa, Sado-city, Niigata 952-1566 Tel: 0259-74-3328 Ogi Soba - Shichiemon 643-1 Ogimachi, Sado-city, Niigata 952-0604 Tel: 0259-86-2046 Sushi - Rikisushi Sawata 112 kawaharadasuwamachi, Sado-city, Niigata 952-1292 Tel: 0259-57-1991 Burikatsu Don - Meotoiwa kanko 1267-5 Takose, Sado-city, Niigata 952-1209 Tel: 0259-76-2511 Curry Rice - Kaifuso 428-1 Seki, Sado-city, Niigata 952-2203 Tel: 0259-78-2311 French Restaurant - Seisuke 398 Katabata, Sado-city, Niigata 952-0023 Tel: 0259-27-6850
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Bread/Bakery Café - Shima Fumi 105-4 Daisho, Sado-city, Niigata 952-0431 Tel: 0259-55-4545 Café - Kyomachi chaya 5 aikawayaoyamachi, Sado-city, Niigata 952-1545 Tel: 080-1093-6341
Visit Sado Seafood Market 1-1 Kasuga, Sado-city, Niigata 952-0006 Tel: 0259-27-3244 Taiko drumming - Kodo Cultural Foundation 148-1 Ogikanetasinden, Sado-city, Niigata 952-0611 Tel: 095-829-1171 Ishina Natural Cedar Way Ishina, Sado-city, Niigata 952-2211 Tel: 0259-27-5000 Onogame Negai, Sado-city, Niigata 952-3203 Tel: 0259-23-3300
Sado Japanese Crested Ibis Conservation Center 337-4 Niibonagaune, Sado-city, Niigata 952-0101 Tel: 0259-22-2445 Sado Gold and Silver Mines 1305 Simoaikawa, Sado-city, Niigata 952-0115 Tel: 0259-74-2389 Seisuiji 124-1 Niiboono, Sado-city, Niigata 952-0109 Tel: 0259-22-2167 Rengebuji 182 Kobie, Sado-city, Niigata 952-0602 Tel: 0259-86-2530
Amazake Cream - Kaifu Hakko 650-1 Seki, Sado-city, Niigata 952-2203 Tel: 0259-78-2288 Camellia Seed Oil - Japanese inn Hana no Ki 78-1 shukunegi, Sado-city, Niigata 952-8570 Tel: 0259-86-2331 Sakiori Pouch – Aikawa Ginou Densho Pavilion 2 Aikawakitazawamachi, Sado-city, Niigata 952-1539 Tel: 0259-74-4313 Stay Hotel – Ryotsu Yamaki Hotel 66 Akitsu, Sado-city, Niigata 952-0021 Tel: 0259-23-4141
Special Thanks: Yukio KAI (Sado City, Japan), right General Manager of Biodiversity Promotion Office, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Division Takahiro FUJII (Sado City, Japan), left Manager of Biodiversity Promotion Office, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Division
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masters
Baking Dreams
COME
TRUE
TEXT DEBORAH TAN PHOTOGRAPHY RAYMOND TOH/VINEYARD PRODUCTION
When it comes to baking, the Japanese do give the Westerners a run for their money. Think delicate cakes, crusty breads and pillowy soft buns made with equal doses of love and precision.
with sugar. The overwhelming popularity of the anpan set in motion the tradition of wayo setchu and the invention of yet more fusion sweets.
“W
ayo-Setchu” is the fusion of elements from both Japanese and Western cuisines. The breads and cakes that are created by Japanese patisserie chefs are a form of Wayo-Setchu because while they bear the form and techniques of Western breads and pastries, many of them have also adopted distinctively Japanese characteristics such as the incorporating of red bean as an ingredient. The first books on bread-making in Japan were published shortly after the Russo-Japanese War in 1906. The
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first book was produced by a Westernstyle restaurant in Tokyo, the second, titled “Instructions of the Master of Kimuraya”, was produced by the third-generation owner of a bakery that was established in Tokyo in 1869. The Creation of The “Pan” At that time, Kimuraya was not actually known for Western-style breads. Its fame came from its invention of the anpan, a soft bread made of sakadane (rice-cultured yeast traditionally used in sake fermentation), filled with azuki-an, a paste made from boiling red beans
Dream Combinations As with the azuki (red bean), green tea soon became another popular flavour for Japanese-Western fusion sweets, making its appearance in desserts such as green tea cakes and green tea chocolates. The flavour proved to be so well accepted by non-Japanese palates, it is today widely used in desserts like macarons and ice creams by Western brands. Japanese-Western fusion breads and desserts are especially popular among Singaporeans who are regularly exposed to international cuisines. Read on in the following pages as we interview three chefs who each represent a different aspect of the Wayo-Setchu culture in baking.
B a k i n g D r e a m s C o m e Tr u e
Itaru Tachihara
Bakery Chef of Pullman Bakery
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stablished in Hokkaido in 1978, Pullman Bakery was formerly known as Tachihara Bakery. It was renamed Pullman Bakery when the family moved to Sapporo from Enbetsu-cho, Northern Hokkaido in 1986. The bakery is best known for its curry bun. The Singapore store is Pullman Bakery’s only overseas store and is managed by Itaru Tachihara, son of chairman Kazuomi Tachihara. How are the breads and pastries from Hokkaido different from those from other regions in Japan? Hokkaido is known for its rich and fresh farm produce. There, we are able to obtain the best wheat and milk. Perhaps this is why Hokkaido breads taste so good. Pullman Bakery has always insisted on using the freshest possible ingredients. This is also part of my frustrations in Singapore because we will never be able to get the ingredients to us super fresh. However, I have done a lot of research and experiment to get the flavours and quality as close to what you can find in our stores in Japan. For example, the curry bun. Even though we use Japanese wheat, the potatoes are sourced locally to ensure they are fresh. What inspired the curry bread and what makes it so good? Actually, the curry bun already existed in Japan. But we improved on the recipe by adding potato chunks into our curry paste and giving it a more robust flavour.
Are Japanese bakers trained any differently from, say, the French? Japan has a very unique bread culture that saw the creation of soft buns like the anpan, the melon pan and the curry bun. However, we are also trained to make European breads like the French baguette. While my father was a self-taught baker, I trained for a year and a half with a French chef when I was 18. The opportunity to learn something different was most definitely very helpful for my career. What is the most important quality a baker must possess in order to be a good one? You must have heart. If you don’t have the passion or the love for bread making, this is not an easy business to get into. You have to start early every morning to get your breads ready for your customers and you have to be prepared to work hard. Pullman Bakery is located at 9 Raffles Boulevard, #01-97/98, Millenia Walk
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B a k i n g D r e a m s C o m e Tr u e
T
he Maison Kayser stores you see in Singapore are opened by Chef Shuichiro Kimura, who brought the famed Parisian boulangerie to Tokyo after training under Eric Kayser, Head Executive Chef and President. Chef Kimura’s family owns the famed Kimuraya (read p32). Determined to bring something new to the baking scene in Japan, he opted to strike out on his own with Eric Kayser rather than take on his family business. He tells us more below. Your family was known for the creation of the anpan. Have you thought of introducing it to Europe? I don’t think I will. First of all, there is a difference in the way bread is consumed in Europe and in Japan. In Japan, we combine incorporate sweet flavours into our bread to the point that it’s almost like a dessert. In Europe, however, bread is used as a “spoon” to eat with your soup or mop up gravy. Bread is also used as a palate cleanser in between courses. Therefore, Europeans prefer their breads to be plain and crusty. They may not take so well to the anpan, which is soft and sweet.
Shuichiro Kimura,
CEO, Boulangerie Eric Kayser Japon Inc.
What is Maison Kayser famous for? In most breads, commercial yeast is used as the leavening agent. But at Maison Kayser, we don’t use yeast. We use a natural liquid leaven. Our focus on natural fermentation means that our breads develop a complex flavour. Maison Kayser’s croissants are also very well-loved. In fact, Figaro named it the best in Paris! It is still our best-seller today. How did you come to join Maison Kayser? Prior to 1997, I was actually working in life insurance. Then I decided to become a baker and I went to the US to study as a baker. After working a while in New York, I went to Paris and became Mr Kayser’s trainee. In 2000, Mr Kayser asked if I would like to be his partner in Japan by bringing Maison Kayser to the country. What does it take to make a good loaf of bread? The simple breads are the most difficult to make because you can tell if the taste and quality is up to scratch. You have to pay attention at every step – watch the temperature in the room, the humidity and adjust your method to make sure you get the maximum flavour out of the flour and that the bacteria in the leaven is at its most energetic. Have you tried any flavour combination that didn’t work? I was once invited by a famous French restaurant in France to make a special bread with seaweed. When they include seaweed into a dish, the Europeans tend to use fresh seaweed. And so, I tried making a bread with fresh seaweed. The result wasn’t so good. However, I tried again using the dried seaweed that Japanese are more familiar with and the new result was much better. Maison Kayser is located at 6 Scotts Road, #B1-09, Scotts Square www.maison-kayser.com/en
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B a k i n g D r e a m s C o m e Tr u e
Heidi Tan
Executive Chef of FLOR Patisserie
C
hef Heidi may be just 25 but she has been in the industry for six years, four of those in FLOR. She trained under Chef Masataka Yamashita, who helped set up FLOR Patisserie in 2010. Chef Heidi now runs FLOR by herself. What are the differences between a Western cake and a Japanese cake? If we go down to the very base of Western cakes and Japanese cakes, both are French in origin. Like Western cakes, Japanese cakes also uses genoise sponge, dacquoise, mille feuille etc. After all, Japanese patissiers were the first to travel to France to learn the art of patisserie. However, when Japanese patissiers brought the art and skill they learned back to Japan, they melded it with their own culture, thus creating Japanese cakes. Japanese cakes generally, are a lot lighter and less sweet. Also, they tend to feature more fresh fruit in their designs to cater to the lighter palates of the Japanese. Not forgetting Japanese-inspired flavours like black sesame, red bean, yuzu etc. How do you go about planning or designing your cakes? There is no one way to go about planning each creation. But usually, I start with the primary flavour or ingredient I want to feature. For example, the butterfly pea flower used in my Blue Donut creation. Then I would decide on the best medium to carry this particular flavour (mousse, sponge or cream). In this case, I chose mousse as a medium to carry the butterfly pea flower to give emphasis to its beautiful blue colour. But of course this decision sometimes will change to suit a style of presentation I want. For example, I have originally intended Murasaki-hime (the purple sweet potato cake) as a shortcake but decided against because the shortcake style of presentation is not able to showcase fully the lovely purple of the sweet potato cream. In the end, I had the cream piped into rosettes on top of a Swiss roll of sponge. What was training under Chef Yamashita like? Training with Chef Yamashita was a privilege. It was hard at first, because he is Japanese (hence, the language barrier) and very strict. There is also the practice that the chef has absolute authority in a sense that if he follows a particular method of doing something, everyone has to do the same. I didn’t like this style of working at first because I was the type to challenge conventions. But I accepted it as part of my training after I realised these are important lessons in discipline that is crucial to any working team. For that, I thank him.
Flor Patisserie is located at 42 Siglap Drive www.cakeflor.com.sg
36
recipes
You Say “Sweet Potato”, We Say “Satsumaimo”
Potato God of Edo There are several Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines in the Kanto region (which encompasses Tokyo) that are dedicated to honouring the satsumaimo. Going by its history, it’s no wonder why. In the mid-18th century, Japan – in particular, the north of Edo (modernday Tokyo) in the Kanto region – was ravaged by famine after years of rice crop failure. As a result of widespread famine, riots were also common. At the same time, a scholar named Aoki Konyo, who had been experimenting with the cultivation of satsumaimo, managed to
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O
ne of the oldest vegetables ever discovered, the sweet potato was believed to have its roots in Central America or South America some 5,000 years ago. It was some time later in the 16th century when the tuber was introduced to China before it entered Japan. Best cultivated in milder climates, the crop grew in the southern parts of Japan, with over 80 percent of the production concentrated in Kyushu. It doesn’t take a lot to distinguish satsumaimo from its American counterpart; where the American sweet potato has a brown skin and orange flesh, satsumaimo stands out with its vibrant reddish-purple skin that encases pale yellow flesh. In terms of taste and texture, satsumaimo is sweeter, slightly denser and less moist – locals often likened it to the chestnut. While the above description is that of a typical satsumaimo, there are actually over a hundred species of satsumaimo available in the market. Varying in shapes, colours and tastes, each type consists of certain properties that are suitable for different methods of cooking. A popular variety is murasaki imo (purple sweet potato), a fairly new species of satsumaimo with rich purple flesh that is often used in desserts.
With its conspicuous reddish-purple skin, it is impossible to miss satsumaimo (Japanese sweet potato) when you see it. But what truly sets it apart from the American sweet potato is what lies beneath that brilliant bright coat.
do so successfully despite the harsh and cold weather conditions. Soon after, satsumaimo crops started to flourish and the tuber became an alternative energy source to make up for the lack of rice – a tremendous move that helped save countless lives. Because of this, Aoki was crowned the “Potato God of Edo” for his breakthrough experiment. Sweet Dreams Are Made Of These The sweetness and earthy fragrance of sweet potatoes makes them delicious simply steamed and without any additional flavourings. But above and beyond its taste, satsumaimo is bursting with nutrition, such as vitamin C. A powerful antioxidant, vitamin C helps boost your immune system, protect your skin from free radical damage (after sun exposure), as well as prevent heart disease. For those watching their weight, satsumaimo makes for an ideal choice of food for several reasons: it is a great
Tip!
Store them in cool, dark areas. For unwashed satsumaimo, make sure they are kept refrigerated in a plastic bag, for no longer than three days.
source of dietary fibre, which is known to not only improve bowel movements but also keep you feeling full for longer; and, because of its high water content of over 60 percent, each serving size (100g) only contains about 130 calories. Thanks to its low glycemic index, which means it slowly and steadily releases glucose into the bloodstream, satsumaimo is also recommended for diabetics. Other nutritional benefits of satsumaimo include keeping your iron levels and blood pressure in check, boosting your metabolism, and promoting eye health.
Sweet Potato Salad
Ingredients
Ingredients
500g Sweet potato 100g Carrot 1 tbs Mayonnaise 1 tsp Butter ½ tsp Salt ½ tsp Sugar
Directions
Sweet Potato Gratin
1. Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into bite-sized pieces. 2. Steam the sweet potatoes for 10 minutes, until they become soft. 3. Peel the carrots and cut them into thin pieces. 4. Boil the carrots with salt, sugar and butter, until the carrots become soft. 5. Puree the carrots together with mayonnaise to make a creamy sauce. 6. Pour the mixture over the steamed sweet potatoes. Mix them well, and serve.
200g Pumpkin 200g Sweet potato 150g Cottage cheese 400cc Milk 1 tbs Butter 1 tbs Bread crumbs 2 tsp Parmigiano cheese 1 tsp Salt 1 pinch Pepper
Directions
1. Peel the pumpkin and remove the seeds. Cut the pumpkin into 2cm cubes. 2. Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into 1cm cubes. 3. Mix the pumpkin and sweet potato cubes with milk and butter, before boiling them until they become soft. 4. Once soft, add the cottage cheese. 5. Shift the mixture into a baking plate, add bread crumbs and Parmigiano cheese on top. Bake it in a preheated 250°C oven for 7 minutes.
Recipes provided by: Reiko Yamada, a cooking advisor (www.reiko-cooking.com)
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“THE SCREAM” BY EDVARD MUNCH©TAMA-CHAN
cool bites
THE JAPANESE SALARY MAN©TAMA-CHAN
She’s On A Roll!
Food artist Takayo Kiyota, better known as Tama-chan, has taken the unassuming Makizushi to breathtaking new heights with her avant-garde designs. Following the launch of her first book “Smiling Sushi Roll”, the prolific artist chats with Oishii about the inspiration behind her work.
B
ecause I work with food as an art medium, people sometimes misunderstand that I am primarily a chef. The truth is, I’ve always seen myself as an artist. Although my designs are all edible, how they taste is secondary to me. What’s more important is the concept I’m trying to convey as well as the overall aesthetics. That’s because I hope to communicate with people through my work; I want to connect with the audience and create thought-provoking art that will tickle their imaginations.
TEXT VANESSA TAI IMAGES TAMA-CHAN, TIME OUT TOKYO
How It All Began I’ve been an illustrator for over 20 years, but only got started with sushi art about nine years ago. I started by making simple Makizushi art for my friends, who found it very interesting. Makizushi is a cylindrical piece of Sushi, which is rolled with the help of a bamboo mat. Initially, I experimented with simple designs such as flowers or teddy bears, but I wanted to explore more interesting designs. I’ve always believed in pushing the envelope when it comes to my designs. Even if the commissioned theme is something familiar such as “Summer”, I’ll steer clear of stereotypical images like, say, “watermelons”. I prefer to use unconventional images that will put a smile on people’s faces. Where I Get My Inspiration My ideas come from everywhere; sometimes, inspiration hits even when I’m sitting in the bathtub! I am often invited to present my artwork in front of an audience so I’ll try to gauge what to create based on their demographics. For example, I won’t create the same type of art for a government agency and a young, arty crowd. Some of my more memorable works include “Pillow Talk”. When you first slice the Makizushi,
Tama-chan conducts a Sushi Art workshop in Japan.
you see a man in bed with his teddy bear. With the second slice, you see him in bed with a woman. And with the third slice, you see him in bed with another man, which is both shocking and intriguing to the audience. I like invoking that kind of response from people; to send a message that says, “I find this funny. What do you think?” I’ve also been inspired by classical artists and have created Makizushi such as “Picasso’s Lover” and Edvard Munch’s ‘The Scream’.
SMILING SUSHI ROLL Author: Tama-chan Published by: Little More
Going Forward: Smiling Sushi Roll Even my book is a type of art form. For example, there are certain pages that have been folded in a certain way to mimic the erotic magazines you can find in Japan. I’ve also included a recipe page for readers to try re-creating ‘The Scream’. I hope to encourage people to stretch their imaginations and use traditional foods as a medium to express themselves.”
41
Toast advertorial
A
W
hen Kichihei Saito, the second-generation head of Kirinzan Shuzo, changed his company’s direction to sake-making in 1842, it was a decision that made history. What had started as a charcoal manufacturing family business in the early 1800s turned into one of the biggest names in the sake brewing industry. While Kirinzan Shuzo prides itself on using the finest rice varieties to produce their sake, the brewery hopes to soon use only the rice cultivated from the town of Aga-machi as part of their ongoing efforts to support the local agricultural community. Some of the rice varieties they use to produce quality sake include Gohyakumangoku, Takanenishiki and Koshitanrei, all of which cultivated locally and monitored by Kirinzan Shuzo. Of course, rice is but one of the few key factors that make up the unmistakably pure, dry and light flavour of Kirinzan Shuzo sake.
Shuntaro Saito, owner of Kirinzan Shuzo
42
To Remember
With over 170 years of history in perfecting the art of sake-making, Kirinzan Shuzo is one of the largest breweries in the Niigata prefecture. President Shuntaro Saito, the seventh-generation owner of Kirinzan Shuzo, shares the secrets behind the success of his family business.
An Unparalleled Location SBlessed with ideal climate conditions and a rich natural environment, Niigata prefecture is home to the largest number of sake breweries in Japan, producing some of the world’s finest sake. And that’s just icing on the cake for Kirinzan Shuzo. Based in Aga-machi in the northern part of Niigata prefecture, Kirinzan Shuzo is strategically located beneath the iconic Kirinzan Mountain – hence the name of the brewery – and surrounded by beech trees. Therein lies the two natural elements that support the production of fine sake for which Kirinzan is acclaimed: air and water. Impurities in the air, such as germs and other micro-organisms, can interfere with the fermentation process during sake brewing, negatively affecting the taste and flavour of the final product. But that has never been a problem for Kirinzan Shuzo, thanks to the regular snowfall in this region during wintertime, which acts as nature’s air purifier. The use of soft water – water with a low mineral content – is another crucial factor in producing Kirinzan Shuzo’s clean, delicate sake. The beech trees that surround the brewery make for an ideal filtration system to “soften” the water, which flows into the nearby Tokonami River then stored underground. “The consistently high quality of our sake is largely due to the use of beech-filtered
water,” says Shuntaro Saito, president of Kirinzan Shuzo. “Close to 94 percent of this region is forested, and we’ve been actively preserving the beech forest to ensure that figure doesn’t change.”
The Changing Sake Palate Before Saito took over his father to become the president of the company, Kirinzan Shuzo only produced a handful of sake varieties. Today, they boast 15 different kinds of sake, with an annual production capacity of 900,000 litres (or 555,000 bottles). “People’s tastes have changed. Not only do they want variety, they also prefer their sake slightly sweeter and more fragrant,” says Saito. “The amount of sake consumption has also gone down as compared to a decade ago, that’s why even one cup of sake has to be sufficiently impactful.” Surely for Saito, whose family history is so steeped in sake brewing, his personal taste in sake must have evolved a fair bit over the years as well. Or perhaps not. “Good sake to me means sake I will never get tired of – if I drank it today, I would still hanker after it tomorrow,” he shares. “That’s why my favourite is our original label, Kirinzan Dento-karakuchi. The polishing process may have been slightly altered to suit today’s palate, but the taste is essentially the same – dry, light-bodied, and refreshingly sharp.”
SAKE Story
For a taste of some of the finest sake, look no further than Kirinzan Shuzo.
Alcohol 15% dry taste(+5)
Alcohol 15% medium taste(+3)
Alcohol 15% dry taste(+5)
Kirinzan Dento Karakuchi
Kirinzan Jyunmai Daiginjyo Blue Bottle
Kirinzan Junmai Ginjo Brown Bottle
Alcohol 16% medium dry taste(+3)
Alcohol 15% dry taste(+5)
Alcohol 15% medium dry taste(+4)
Kirinzan Momiji
Kirinzan Honjozo Black Bottle
Kirinzan Junmai Green Bottle
It is refreshing in the dry and moderate acidity. It is liquor with clear taste with lightness.
Carefully aged three years in the bottle. Rich with lots of umami taste, smooth and mellow, pleasantly dry and well balanced in flavor. A very typical taste of Kirinzan Aged Sake. Perfect to pair with autumn dishes.
Bracingly clean and laced with mild nuance of citrus goodness. A classic niigata sake made with the signature soft Niigata water. A beautiful bottle for a very beautiful product.
Moderate acidity, dry yet there is an appealing softness in the palate. Widespreading umami blends perfectly well with food. Best sake to have during meal . Brings out it best character when served warm to 45℃.
Kirinzan Junmai Ginjo has a very smooth, harmonized in taste and fragrance. This brown bottle range of Kirinzan should be served cold for the best taste. Its dry taste is suitable for many Japanese dishes for special occasion.
Generally, a typical Junmai Shu is quite rich, heavy and strong yeast character however, this sake is surprisingly different in a way that it’s very fresh, light in the palate with just the right umami. Distinctive rice flavor and goes down smoothly leaving a very pleasant, clean aftertaste.
Orihara Shoten also stocks season-limited Namazake (生酒) , a non-pasteurised fresh sake; and Genshu (原酒), an undiluted sake as part of its lineup.
Orihara Shoten is located at 11 Unity Street, #01-02 Robertson Walk. Tel: 6836 5710
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Publisher Takeshi NAITO MEDIA JAPAN PTE LTD 82 Genting Lane #04-04 Media Centre Singapore 349567 Tel: (65)6748-1822 E-mail: info@oishii.sg Website:www.oishii.sg Editor in Chief Chiharu KUWAJIMA Editorial Partner Material World LLP Designer Gina Ang Emily Ng Satsuki SATO Photographer Japan: Masanori KAWAGUCHI Syunsuke SHII Katsuyoshi SEKINE Singapore: Raymond Toh Printed in Singapore NPE Print Communications Pte Ltd
Distributor DJ Express Services
Oishii is the publication under Media Japan Pte Ltd. While every effort has been made to ensure that information is correct at the time of print, Media Japan Pte Ltd cannot be held responsible for the outcome of any action or decision based on the information contained in this publication or any websites and publicity materials associated with it. The publishers and authors do not give any warranty for the completeness or accuracy for this publication’s content, explanation or opinion. All rights are reserved and no part of this publication may be reproduced in part or in full without the formal written permission of the publisher. Trademarks, logos, copyrights, and depictions contained herein are the properties of their respective trademark and copyrights owners.
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