Japanese Food culture 1

ISSUE 1 MCI(P)153/08/2013

to meet you!

Everything delicious begins with a single grain

Standing Up For

SUSHI!

Howard Lo talks about his culinary ambitions

YAMAGUCHI

From puffer fish to prime ministers, what you should know about this quaint Japanese prefecture.

contents

03 A Year of Good Food

Can’t-miss Japanese food

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30

events all over Asia

Howard Lo – One Man and His Sushi Dream

24 Rolling with

Sushi Masters

Three of the best sushi master behind the art of sushi-making.

05 Glorious Grains

Find out the secret behind the much sought-after

try when you’re in there.

industry when his background

restaurants, shares his story.

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The sights to see and food to

chefs in town reveal the secrets

Lo, founder of three Japanese

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Yamaguchi Prefecture

How did he end up in the F&B was in technology? Howard

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28 A Bountiful Harvest

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Easy-to-prepare recipes using fresh Spring vegetables.

Tasty Landscapes We speak to one-half of the

Japanese rice, as well as the

duo HOO, who create stunning

varieties used in traditional

works of art using food as

Japanese dishes.

their medium.

Bite Into This Chef Bruno Menard of

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Cook a Pot of Rice Learn a little about the history

La Cantine talks about the

of rice cookers, which have

Japanese flavours hiding in his

come a long way since the

famed burger.

very first electric rice cooker was introduced to Japan in the 1920s.

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opening notes

Springtime Spectacle Celebrate the blooming of Sakura

Whether it is Japan’s food, flora or festivals that you find yourself endlessly fascinated with, spring has something for everyone.

Japan boasts Uni sushi is aone popular of the way to savour uni highest consumption of dessert strawberries in the world

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f spring in Japan conjures up mental images of picturesque landscapes, fresh food and vibrant festivals, you would be quite right.

With a new seasonal cycle breathing life into everything again, it’s easy for wanderlust to hit. Here’s a rundown of what to expect in springtime Japan.

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FESTIVE FEASTING

OUT AND ABOUT

Nothing beats the freshness of ingredients used in seasonal spring dishes.

For starters, quintessential Japanese vegetable takenoko (bamboo shoots) are exceptionally tender and fresh in spring.

It is sometimes cooked with rice to add flavour to the rice.

Besides fresh vegetables, the Japanese also demand the highest quality from their seafood. Popular springtime seafood include hotaru ika (firefly squid), uni (sea urchin), and kinmedai (splendid alfonsino). When cooked with suitable dishes, these ingredients make for a luxurious and satisfying meal.

Strawberries are a popular springtime fruit. In fact, strawberry picking activities are also available from January to March.

With temperatures on the rise, spring is an ideal period to start exploring Japan’s attractions and activities. A common springtime activity is Hanami (flower viewing) parties. These popular parties

Above: A takenoko dish is high in nutritional benefits Right: Hotaru ika is usually enjoyed with sumiso, a vinegar and miso sauce

allow one to fully revel in the beauty of Japan’s sakura, while enjoying an outdoor party. Favoured Hanami spots include Osaka Castle in Osaka and Shinjuku Gyoen in Tokyo.

If bustling festival vibes thrill your senses, don’t miss Sanja Matsuri, one of the country’s largest religious celebrations. Held on the third weekend of May at the Asakusa Shrine, the festival honours the three men who founded Tokyo’s oldest temple, Senso-ji.

The lively festival involves portable shrines carried by men, women and children. In addition, the accompanying parade draws hundreds of thousands of spectators. From floats carrying musicians to dancers performing traditional dance all the way to the Asakusa Shrine, it’s truly a sight to behold.

Japan is not only a treat for the senses, but also a choice destination for all kinds of travellers. Here’s one for the bucket list: Experience it firsthand and be mesmerised by the unfiltered beauty of springtime Japan.

Dedicated to the gourmet wonders of Japan, Oishii magazine is published four times annually, with each issue addressing one season of the year. This spring issue, we take your tastebuds on a gastronomical journey of Japan’s finest culinary springtime offerings. All we ask is that you bring a hearty appetite!

TEXT GRACE YEOH

MOIKKO(もういっこ)”©JA MIYAGI WATARI

FLOWER POWER Undeniably one of the most anticipated periods of the year, Japan’s blooms are renowned for the crowds they draw.

Arguably the most iconic springtime flower is the sakura (cherry blossoms).

Another springtime flower, ume (plum blossoms) bloom from February to March, while the fruit of momo (peach blossoms) is said to drive away evil and holds special meaning for the Japanese.

Momo is also commonly used in hinamatsuri (Girls’ Festival), which is celebrated on March 3, to symbolise wellness and happiness for daughters.

Another attraction is Japan’s brightly coloured tulips, which typically bloom in late April. At the Tonami Tulip Park, one million tulips of 450 different varieties herald in springtime in a breathtaking sea of various hues and shapes.

events

A Year of Good Food

True to the spirit of Japanese innovation, the food industries in Japan are ever-evolving. And in recent years, Japanese F&B industries have been bringing their innovations to the world.

TOKYO, JAPAN Wine & Gourmet Japan 2 – 4 April 2014 Touted as “the only dedicated wine and spirits networking business platform in Japan”, this event gives you the opportunity to mingle with top decision makers in the industry.”

TOKYO, JAPAN Japan International Seafood & Technology Expo 20 to 22 August 2014 From the latest in processed seafood to nursery and aquaculture technologies, this is where you’ll get up to date on the latest offerings from the Japanese seafood industry.

TOKYO, JAPAN Health Food Exposition & Conference 8 to 10 October 2014 With a focus on health and wellness, this is a must for every manufacturer, company or brand involved with health ingredients.

SINGAPORE

Food and Hotel Asia 8 to 11 April 2014 This massive trade event brings together 64,000 attendees from 95 countries, including Japan. The Japanese External Trade Organisation (JETRO) will be bringing together 46 Japanese food industries for this exhibition, from boutique sake brewers to Japanese dessert manufacturers, as well as producers of Miso, Ramen and bonito flakes.

TOKYO, JAPAN BioFach Japan 20 to 22 November 2014 BioFach Japan is Asia’s leading trade fair for organic products, ranging from food products to cosmetics and textiles.

SINGAPORE Gourmet Japan 28 April to 31 May 2014 Try your hand at everything, from cooking workshops to exquisite dinners planned around premium wines.

TOKYO, JAPAN International Food Ingredients & Additives Exhibition and Conference 21 to 23 May 2014 Dedicated solely to the food additives and ingredients industries, this trade show is an excellent introduction to the industry.

HONG KONG HKTDC Food Expo 14 to 18 August 2014 This international food fair attracts food traders from all over the world, including Japan, and is one of the best marketplaces for food retailers, wholesalers, suppliers, agencies, and brokers.

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interview

HOWARD LO –

One Man and His Sushi Dream

THE QUICK ‘N’ EASY OF HOWARD LO’S F&B BUSINESS STANDING SUSHI BAR

Started in ... August 2009 Located at: 8 Queen Street #01-03, Singapore Art Museum 8A Marina Boulevard #B2-51, Marina Bay Link Mall What is it? Standing Sushi Bar is a casual sushi bar that prides itself on handmade sushi and fresh sashimi every day.

TANUKI RAW

Started in ... December 2012 Located at: #02-03 Orchard Central, 181 Orchard Road, Orchard Central What is it? Tanuki Raw is a raw and cocktail bar focused on raw oysters and sashimi. It features Singapore’s best happy hour with $10 martinis and $2 fresh raw oysters.

SHINKANSEN

Started in ... December 2013 Located at: #B1-08 Ocean Financial Centre, 10 Collyer Quay What is it? Named after the Japanese bullet train, Shinkansen is a salad bar where healthy rice, noodle and salad bowls can be customised with more than 35 different types of toppings.

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Steak Tartar Donburi - one of Tanuki Raw’s bestsellers

kani (crab meat), tamago (egg), and sashimi (raw fish). Our dressings include Japanese selection such as miso, which I think helps us stand out from other salad bars. With that many toppings and bases to choose from, the customer gets to create their own authentic dish.

Simplicity is another thing I go for, apart from authenticity. When it comes to fine-dining, there are so many things to worry about. I like my meals to be straightforward and fuss-free, so I thought, why not go for something casual? I went to Tokyo for a week and ate at a few different restaurants, ranging from casual to fancy. My favourite experience from that trip was at a standing sushi bar. I loved seeing everyone standing together, as well as their interaction with the chefs, that made eating a communal experience. I thought it was an idea that could translate well to Raffles Place, where office workers who sit throughout the day could stand and eat.

Embarking on this entrepreneurial journey was not an entirely smooth process. I had to do lots of homework. But this job is a labour of love, and while I do miss my old life in the tech industry, I’m excited to add to the gastronomical landscape in Singapore. There have been a lot more interesting niche restaurants and bars sprouting up in Singapore in the past two years, and I’m hoping to contribute to that diversity by opening a bar focused on American craft spirits.

TEXT JOYCE CHUA

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eople often ask me where I got the idea to set up a standing sushi bar. Why a sushi bar, when I am American-Chinese? Why a standing sushi bar? In the first place, why gastronomy, when my background was firmly tech-based?

Firstly, I grew up in Orlando, Florida, where you either love or hate Disneyworld. I not only loved Disneyworld, but also the tourism and hospitality industry. In fact, my first job was waiting tables at a café!

Even though I went on to specialise in the tech industry by working at Microsoft for more than a decade after graduating with a Master’s degree in Information Systems Development, I never really gave up on my dream to open my own restaurant.

The decision to start up Standing Sushi Bar – and later, Tanuki Raw, which is a Japanese cocktail and sushi bar – came from a combination of timing, market need and my love for Japanese food (I’ve been eating sushi since I was five and have fond memories of eating it with my mom). I thought it could fill a niche in Singapore’s Japanese restaurant scene, and since Microsoft was undergoing some turbulence during the financial crisis, I decided to take the plunge and open the restaurant in 2009, although it was only in 2012 that I left Microsoft.

I try to make my establishments stand out from the crowd. For instance, Shinkansen, a Tanuki Raw outlet, is not your regular salad bar. Mixed greens are one of the bases you can choose, but you could also go with sushi rice, brown rice, or soba noodles as the base and then pick from over 35 toppings that are a mix of healthy ingredients like

flavours

Glorious Japanese rice (Japonica rice) is the foundation of the Japanese diet, and is omnipresent at almost every meal. Just what is it about this food staple that makes it revered the world over?

J

apanese rice grains are short and translucent, and are prized for their superior quality. While short-grain cultivars of Japanese rice are also grown in places like Thailand and California, the quality of the real McCoy is unmatched. That’s because Japan only has one rice-growing season per year, whereas rice grown in the tropics are harvested twice a year.

This way, the land has ample time to “rest”, allowing the soil to be primed for the next growing season. Also, Japanese rice fields are irrigated with cool and pristine running water from the mountains, while the water in tropical rice fields is still.

Which region in Japan grows the best rice?

The undisputed champion has to be

TEXT VANESSA TAI

A rice farm in Hokkaido

Niigata prefecture, which produces Japan’s biggest harvest of rice, and is also known as the “rice capital of Japan.”

Niigata faces the Sea of Japan to the west, and is surrounded by mountains on its other three sides. Apart from having an abundance of clean water from the snow-capped mountains, the climate in Niigata is also well suited for rice cultivation – the days are warm, and the nights, cold. Sado Island, in Niigata Prefecture, is one such region. This is where the Sado oyster-shell rice farming method was developed, and where the renowned Aida Koshihikari variant is cultivated.

Sato at work at the rice polishing machine

Singapore is the second-largest importer of Japanese rice Tawaraya is a Japanese rice supplier in Singapore that caters to both restaurants and home cooks, and is run by Sato Yuichi. According to Sato, Hokkaido is rising quickly as a popular rice-producing region. He explains that while it used to be a challenge to grow rice in the cold climes of Hokkaido, it’s now possible due to global warming. What sets their rice apart from other suppliers is how they only polish the rice upon order, ensuring it stays fresh.

While Tawaraya uses two high-end

rice polishing machines at their plant in Jurong, coin-automated rice polishing machines (called Seimaijo) are a common sight in rural Japan. Depending on the settings you select, the machine buffs away the husk to produce the type of rice you want. 70 percent polished give you what is commonly known as brown rice, while 100 percent polished grains give you the ubiquitous white rice. Freshly polished rice give off a brighter sheen, and releases a comforting, toasty fragrance.

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Uruchi Mai (White Rice)

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Uruchi Mai is the most popular type of Japanese rice, and is a must-have at almost every Japanese meal.

Unlike regular jasmine rice or other long-grain rice, Uruchi Mai has a stickier consistency, and a slightly creamy texture.

Among the many variants of Japanese short-grain rice, Koshihikari is the cream of the crop. It is especially loved for its sweet, nutty taste and slightly sticky texture, making it best suited for Sushi. The name Koshihikari means “light of Koshi.” Koshi is an old province located within Niigata prefecture, and is a stretch of land along the coast of the Sea of Japan. Hikari, which means “light”, refers to the grain’s polish and beautiful translucence. Koshihikari now accounts for almost 40 percent of Japan’s rice

production. The second-most popular short-grain variety is Hitomebore, which means “love at first sight”. It was developed in the Miyagi prefecture, and is usually eaten plain or in Sushi.

Apart from Gohan (cooked white rice) and Sushi, Uruchi Mai is also used to make a wide variety of rice dishes. One of the more popular dishes is Onigiri, which are rice balls wrapped in Nori seaweed, and contain fillings such as Umeboshi (pickled Japanese plum), Okaka (dried bonito shavings and konbu) or salmon.

Another popular dish is Chazuke, which is a type of comfort food commonly served in Izakaya (casual drinking establishments). Chazuke is a dish where hot water, tea, or light fish stock is poured over rice, and enjoyed with toppings like Umeboshi, grilled salmon or pickles.

Glorious Grains

Genmai (Brown Rice)

Genmai is whole grain rice, which means it’s either unmilled or partially milled.

When only the outermost layer of a rice grain (the husk) is removed, you’ll get brown rice. To get white rice, you’ll need to remove the layers below the husk – the bran layer and the germ.

Compared to white rice, Genmai is chewier and more nutritious, and has a mild, nutty flavour. While Genmai is the healthiest variety of rice, it’s not as popular as white rice, probably because its nutty flavour only goes with certain types of dishes. For example, brown rice is hardly ever used to make Sushi or Onigiri. This is in part due to aesthetic reasons, as well as the fact that it’s not as sticky as white rice.

However, there are plenty of creative ways to enjoy Genmai, whether through Japanese dishes like Omuraisu

(Japanese Rice Omelet) or even Western dishes like risotto.

When cooking your brown rice, it may develop a crusty bottom (known as Okoge), which many Japanese people actually consider a delicacy. One way to enjoy Okoge could be to add it as a topping into Chazuke. Or, you could crisp it up even more in a bit of sesame oil before adding a few drops of soy sauce to create a rice cracker of sorts.

If you find it hard getting used to eating brown rice, try Haigamai (half-polished rice). This is a fairly new variant – it was cultivated to meet consumers’ growing demands for healthy food – and is when the outer bran is removed, leaving the nutritious haiga (germ) layer intact. While the taste, texture, and flavour is similar to white rice, the colour is a light shade of tan.

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Glorious Grains

Mochigome (Glutinous Rice)

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Mochigome is the second most common variety of Japanese rice, and has an even stickier texture than regular Japanese rice. It’s easily differentiated from the other rice variants with its short, round and opaque grains. While people often assume glutinous rice is named as such because it contains gluten, they’re mistaken. Glutinous rice is so named because it has a sticky, glue-like texture when cooked.

Mochigome is usually steamed instead of boiled, and when pounded, it creates a sticky, gluey paste that’s used to make Mochi (rice cakes). While Mochi is usually prepared for the Japanese New Year, most people also enjoy it all year round.

You can also cook Mochigome to create a slew of other dishes, for example, Sekihan, a traditional Japanese dish where the sticky rice is steamed with

Azuki (red beans), lending it a reddish hue. Sekihan is usually served on special occasions like birthdays or weddings, because the colour red is a symbol of happiness in Japan.

Mochigome is also used to make traditional Japanese sweets like Botamochi, which is prepared with sweet rice and sweet Azuki paste. After soaking the sweet rice for about six hours, the rice is then cooked, and a dense layer of paste is packed into the pre-formed balls of rice.

A popular Japanese snack, Senbei (rice crackers), is also made with Mochigome. Senbei are either baked or grilled, and while being prepared, they may be brushed with some flavoured sauce, often a combination of soy sauce and Mirin. However, modern interpretations of this traditional snack feature flavours like kimchi, Wasabi, and even chocolate.

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artistic

creation

CHEF BRUNO MENARD, first 3-Michelin starred chef to be permanently based in Singapore, introduces a burger that’s big in size and flavour.

his burger is called ‘Three Little Pigs’ because it uses three types of pork – pork fillet, chorizo sausage and bacon. It doesn’t sound like it’s inspired by any Japanese ingredients but, trust me, it is.

You could say I am trying to reinvent what the burger is. Most people just think, ‘rich, hearty, smoky’ but by using ingredients such as ume (Japanese plum), shibazuke (purple Japanese pickles typically eaten with rice), and the sauce yuzukosho (a type of Japanese seasoning that is a paste made from fermenting yuzu peel, chilli pepper and salt), the palate is now treated to a whole new range of flavours.

The yuzu is a fruit that I think describe Japan completely. Depending on the season, it can look green or yellow. The flavour, however, remains pretty consistent. Its acidity adds a nice contrast to the burger in terms of flavour.

Other Japanese influences you can find in this burger are white cabbage – which you will see when you eat tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) – and shitake mushrooms.

Having spent 14 years in Japan, it is clear the country has influenced my cooking. I like it that they are very respectful of ingredients, they make the most of everything and there’s very little wastage. In trying to bring out the best of each ingredient, different culinary techniques are used, and that is extremely inspiring for a chef.”

La Cantine is located at 8 Marina View, Asia Square Tower 1, #01-01. Tel: 6690 7567.

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TEXT DEBORAH TAN PHOTOGRAPHY: RAYMOND TOH/VINEYARD PRODUCTION

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TEXT DENISE LI PHOTOGRAPHY MORITSUGU MAKITAO

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idemase! That means “welcome” in Yamaguchi dialect.

“Where exactly is Yamaguchi?” we hear you ask. The westernmost prefecture on Honshu, it might not be the first place that first-time visitors to Japan will think of visiting, though we certainly hope that will change in the near future.

Yamaguchi doesn’t have the bright lights and huge shopping areas of Tokyo, nor the ski slopes of Hokkaido. But it certainly has a lot of other things to offer, especially if you’ve always been fascinated by Japanese history, or wanted to see how people lived outside of the big cities.

Take things down a notch by visiting laidback Hagi City. In Hagi, cottage industries that have been around for more than a century still thrive today, oftentimes still employing the same methods used to produce their goods. The city also has a lot to offer by way of natural scenery; the picture you see here is of the Kasayama Camellia Forest. The best time to visit is during spring; that’s when you’ll see the ground littered with beautiful camellia flowers.

For some much needed rest and relaxation, head straight to Yamaguchi City, the capital of the prefecture and home to the Yuda Onsen. Here, you’ll have your pick of luxurious Ryokans with hot springs.

It’s heaven on earth for the weary city-dweller hoping to get away from it all for a little while.

Of course, what’s a trip to Japan without sampling its culinary delights? When you’re in Yamaguchi prefecture, you can eat your fill of the famed puffer fish prepared in a variety of ways, and at half the price you’ll pay in Tokyo.

In the next few pages, Oishii recommends things to see and do, try and eat in Yamaguchi prefecture. We certainly hope it’ll inspire you to go off the beaten track and visit this amazing place for yourself. We, for one, can’t wait to go back!

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Yukawa Family Old Residence

City planning around Hagi Castle

Kumaya Art Museum

The ruins of Hagi Castle

The oldest piano in Japan, on display at Kumaya Art Museum.

Get To Know Hagi City

Hagi city is of historical significance as it was home to political figures who were instrumental in the modernisation of Japan during the Meiji Restoration. Its streets and buildings are still well-preserved today, and definitely worth a visit.

For the History Buffs The Mori clan ruled the Choshu domain during the Edo area. During this time, they built Hagi Castle. Though only ruins remain today, you can still see the efforts of Mori city planning in the area surrounding the castle.

Other well-preserved relics from the same period include the Yukawa Family Old Residence. The grounds feature a specially constructed canal that runs from the river into the house, and the water was then used for washing and laundry – it’s an amazing feat of engineering that must be seen to be believed.

On your tour of Hagi, another must-visit is the Shoka Sonjuku, the private academy used by Shoin Yoshida to teach the youth military arts and politics. One of Japan’s most distinguished intellectuals, many of his students went on to become high-ranking officials in the Meiji Restoration.

Pick up a piece of Hagi pottery at JIBITA

Hagi Sea Mart

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Though merchants were ranked lowly in society during the Edo period, it did not stop many of them from prospering. The Kumaya Art Museum belonged to a prominent merchant family during the Edo period, and their wealth can be seen in its sizeable grounds. It now houses a large collection of artefacts, including Japan’s oldest piano.

Hagi’s Artistic Spirit When you have finished your historical tour of Hagi, stop by the Hagi Sea Mart for a seafood bento box. This is also your chance to stock up on other produce such as strawberries and locally made seafood pastes.

Finally, if you need further evidence that Hagi’s artistic spirit is alive and thriving, drop by pottery gallery and shop JIBITA to view a showcase of traditional and contemporary pieces from 30 different Hagi artists.

Hagi Machij u performers at Hagi Station

A blossoming camellia tree

Shoka Sonjuku, Shoin Yoshida’s private academy

Sights

Ruriko-ji Temple

The “SL Yamaguchi” steam train, which still runs today from Shin-Yamaguchi Station to Tsuwano Station

Yamaguchi Xavier Memorial Church

Saikoutei Ryotei

Enjoy a relaxing foot soak at Yuda Onsen

Check Out The Sights In Yamaguchi City Though many come here to visit the famed Yuda Onsen, this fascinating city also has many attractions that pay tribute to notable historcal figures.

Historically Significant Flanked on both sides by lush greenery during the spring months, the first glimpse of the five-storied Ruriko-ji temple is breathtaking.

Yamaguchi City’s most prominent symbol has its origins in the 16th century when a Samurai built a similar structure to hold memorial services for his family members.

While Buddhism has been and still is the predominant religion in Japan, Christianity enjoyed a brief period of popularity before it was outlawed in 1589. The St Francis Xavier Memorial Church was built to commemorate St Francis Xavier’s mission to Yamaguchi City in 1551 where he spent six months. Of special interest are the beautiful stained glass windows depicting Christian imagery in a contemporary style.

Another attraction not to be missed is Saikoutei Ryotei. As the most luxurious Ryotei (luxurious traditional Japanese restaurant) in Yamaguchi, Saikotei – which operated for 126 years from 1878 –

Enjoy a selection of beers at Yamaguchi Narutaki Kogen Brewery

Yamaguchi Center for Arts and Media

played host to many Prime Ministers and other key government officials. It reopened in 2004 as a museum, and is home to the calligraphy writings of Prime Ministers and members of the nobility.

Tradition Meets Modernity The Yamaguchi Center for Arts and Media (YCAM) serves as an educational centre meant to help cultivate creativity in adults and children. Its cavernous spaces make it suitable for the showcasing of media installations, including those of famed musician Ryuichi Sakamoto.

When you’ve had your fill of history and culture, it’s time to fill your stomach! A 15-minute drive out of the city will take you to the Yamaguchi Narutaki Kogen Brewery, located in the picturesque countryside. This microbrewery offers four varieties of beer: pilsner, wheat ale, pale ale, and stout, along with a European menu that uses locally-sourced ingredients.

Stop over at Shimonoseki There’s no better place to try one of Japan’s most famous delicacies, Fugu or puffer fish, than at Shimonoseki. Be sure to head to the city during the weekend and drop by Karato Sea Market.

That’s when this wholesale market really comes alive, and you’ll get to sample Sushi and Sashimi prepared by stall vendors right before your very eyes.

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Yamaguchi’ s

FINEST

You can get great food everywhere you go in Japan, but you’d truly be missing out if you don’t take the chance to sample some regional specialties. For the best of what Yamaguchi prefecture has to offer, read on for our recommendations.

Mouthwatering Wagyu Kobe might still be the first place that comes to mind when people think about Wagyu, but it would be doing Hagi City a great injustice to overlook the fact that it also produces some fine quality beef. Midoriya Farm is a local beef producer, but they also run a restaurant and a small market selling Wagyu beef and other regional produce.

The amazing marbling of the meat comes from a breed of cow known as Kenran-gyu; it’s a hybrid of the Mishima cow – which originates from the tiny island of the same name off the coast of Hagi – and the European Holstein. In fact, Wagyu is believed to have its origins in the Mishima, but as it is now a protected species in Japan, it is not common (not to mention expensive) to eat beef from a purebred Mishima.

We were amazed at how melt-in-your-mouth tender the Kenran-gyu beef was, with just the barest of seasoning needed to bring out its full flavour. Order the five-cut set to sample the full range of the meat’s textures.

Season’s Eating Eating what’s in season might seem like a fairly new concept in Singapore where the bulk of food is imported, but in Japan, it just makes perfect sense. How else can you guarantee and quality and freshness of the ingredients used?

If an unforgettable dining experience is what you’re after, you can’t go wrong with a visit to Chiyo while you’re in Hagi. Serving up only the best seasonal fish available, the restaurant can accommodate about 10 people at any one time. Only counter seating is available, but think of it as having front-row seats to watch as chef Kawamura expertly fillets the fish right before your very eyes.

During Oishii’s visit to Chiyo, we enjoyed an assortment of Sashimi, including Tora-fugu (puffer fish), Uni (sea urchin), Sazae (sea snail), abalone, squid, and more. These types of seafood are usually available during spring.

Freshly Caught The owner of Ryumon worked for many years as a fisherman, but started the restaurant as he had always dreamed of owning a restaurant that featured local handpicked seafood. Today, he still personally catches all the shellfish sold in his restaurant. Between the hours of 8am to 3pm – regulated fishing hours as stipulated by the Japanese government – he’d head out to sea to dive for shellfish before heading back to the restaurant with the day’s catches.

His freshly grilled Sazae – a type of sea snail that’s a prized delicacy in Japan – and abalone are best enjoyed with a refreshing ice-cold mug of Japanese beer.

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Food

Kawara Soba Kawara Soba is served to you on a roof tile, paying homage to the fact that during a war in the 19th century, soldiers cooked meat and wild grass on Kawara tiles. Takase, the restaurant gets the tiles specially made for plating purposes.

The noodles get their distinctive colour from its main ingredient, green tea.

Following the founder’s original recipe, the noodles are fried, and topped with slices of Wagyu beef, seaweed, and grated Daikon, then served with Mentsuyu sauce. Dig in deep to get to the noodles closer to the tile’s surface and you’ll notice it gets quite “crispy”, with a deliciously smoky flavour.

Tas ty QUICK, CASUAL,

Niku-Ten-Udon Don Don is an Udon shop and is somewhat of an institution of Hagi City, as most the locals would have frequented it since they were students.

Particularly comforting on a cold spring day, we liked the distinctively sweet flavour of the soup stock. We also spied a rather unusual condiment on the tables, chilli flakes, which added heat to our bowl. To make your meal a more substantial one, order a side dish of Onigiri (rice ball), which has a filling of Wakame (seaweed).

Few things are more satisfying and comforting than a well-prepared noodle dish. Here are a few to try while you’re in Yamaguchi; you’ll be hardpressed to find dishes prepared in a similar way outside of the prefecture.

Bari Soba

The noodles here will immediately remind you of Singapore’s “sang mee”.

Crispy soba is fried with a thick sauce and topped with Kamaboko (fish cake), cabbage, spring onions, and bamboo shoots.

Up to 100 plates of Bari Soba are sold every day, and the chef is blasé about how his customers choose to enjoy this dish. Some regulars at Nanase even bring their own chilli powder and mustard as condiments, he reveals, though the “standard” way to enjoy it is with some Ponzu sauce and chilli oil. You may also customise the done-ness of the noodles – soft, still crispy or al dente.

Shouchan Korokke There is a noticeable absence of street food in Hagi City, but should you craving a small, deep-fried bite, do stop by this small shop. While primarily a butchery, owner Tanaka Yoshiharu takes pride in his Korokke (potato croquettes). The potato comes from Hokkaido, and he’s particular about the quality of potato and bread crumbs he uses. We found the Korokke to be wonderfully light and crisp, and enjoyed the slight sweetness of the potato. It was impossible to stop at just one!

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Onsen

Accommodation

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All Set for the

For the ultimate pampering experience, check into a Ryokan with a hot spring, like Hotel Nishi-no Miyabi Tokiwa in Yamaguchi City.

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he main stretch of Yuda Onsen in Yamaguchi City doesn’t just have a choice selection of Ryokans with Onsens, but also little shops where you can enjoy foot soaks.

Everything You Need

Hotel Nishi-no-Miyabi Tokiwa is in many ways your traditional Ryokan where you can expect exceptional service levels and quality food. Boasting 10 different types of hot springs, you can also enjoy other pampering services such as an in-room Shiatsu massage.

Not to be missed is the hotel’s Kaiseki, or traditional multi-course dinner. The Fugu Kaiseki is a sumptuous spread of more than 10 appetisers and main dishes, and it’s the perfect opportunity for you to try the famed puffer fish cooked in a variety of ways: as a Sashimi, in a hotpot, as well as cooked into a congee.

After your meal, enjoy a performance at the hotel’s main event room where the star is no other than the Okami (head hostess) of the hotel! Don’t worry if you don’t speak a word of Japanese; the energetic performance and slapstick humour cuts across all cultural boundaries.

To further aid the digestion of your meal, head to – where else? – the Onsen and let the water’s rejuvenating properties do its work!

Onsen Etiquette 101 Visiting a Japanese hot spring for the first time can be immensely bewildering for foreigners, so be sure to acquaint yourself with the basic rules of Onsen etiquette before going to one.

Do …

COVER UP THOSE TATTOOS. Tattoos are generally

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keeping the hot springs hygienic, you’re expected to

to replenish your

rinse your body before entering the Onsen for the

body’s fluids.

first time. Make use of the washbowls in the bathing

WEAR BATHING

area to do this. Next, enter the Onsen and soak for

SUITS. The rule

awhile before getting out and washing

is in place, once

your hair and body with shampoo and soap (these

again, for hygiene

are usually provided by the Onsen). After this

reasons. You’re usually given a small towel to protect

process, you’re free to soak in the hot spring.

your modesty while walking to and from the hot spring, but once you’re soaking, ensure the towel

associated with ties to organised crime in Japan and

Don’t …

they’re a strict no-no. If you have any, cover them up

DRINK BOOZE BEFORE OR AFTER YOUR ONSEN

your head or outside of the bath.

with a large bandage before entering the Onsen.

EXPERIENCE. Soaking in the Onsen can be

Onsens are usually segregated by gender, and not

WASH YOURSELF TWICE. In the interests of

dehydrating, so drink plenty of water and green tea

much can be seen once you’re in the bath anyway.

doesn’t touch the water. You can either put it on

People

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GetTo Know …

The People of Yamaguchi At Your Service

The word Omotenashi refers to the exceptional levels of service and hospitality with the aim to make each and every one of their customers feel respected and valued. Keiko Koto, Okami, or head hostess of Hagi no Yado Tomoe in Hagi, tells us more about what Omotenashi means to her.

Can you tell us a bit about the history of the Ryokan?

My husband’s grandfather was the founder of Hagi no Yado Tomoe, though it was previously located somewhere else in Hagi. He was a government official and he founded the Ryokan as he wanted to help develop tourism in Hagi. Most of all, he wanted it to be a place where guests could not only relax, but also be inspired. Till today, his philosophy works as a guiding principle for us when we serve our guests.

How do you deal with difficult guests?

We would attend to them immediately, and ensure we are sincere in helping them solve the problem. To us, nothing is more important than establishing mutual understanding with our guests and if they are happy and smiling at the end of the day, we’ll know that we’ve done our jobs well.

Tell us about some of the more well-known guests that have stayed at the Ryokan.

We have served famous actors and actresses, as well as politicians and members of the royal family. But every guest is important to us, regardless of their status. Most of the time, these people also don’t expect or want special treatment anyway.

What do you hope to achieve with Hagi no Yado Tomoe in the future?

I love Hagi and I want the city to be well-known internationally. I hope the Ryokan can be part of that experience for guests visiting Hagi. Perhaps visitors can consider visiting the city in October during Kimono Week. It was an initiative I helped spearhead about seven years ago; seeing women walking on the streets in Kimonos is quite a sight to behold.

A Great Brew

When he was working at an events company in Tokyo, Hiroshi Aoki tasted an exceptionally fine Sake, and was inspired to start brewing it himself. 20 years on, he is the Toji, or head brewer of Santouka, at Kanemitsu Brewery in Yamaguchi City.

In Sake brewing, there are so many factors that are beyond your control.

How do you overcome such problems?

You need pay attention to details such as the size, colour, and overall quality of the rice, and be quick to adapt to new and unexpected conditions.

What were some of the challenges you faced when you first started brewing Sake?

To be a good Sake brewer, your five senses need to be extremely sensitive. Starting out, I didn’t know if my senses were attuned to the finer points of the brewing process.

Is Sake-brewing something you wish to pass on to future generations of your family?

Definitely, but I would like the next generation of brewers could develop their own brewing sensibilities. Sakebrewing is an art, and the Sake should be a reflection of the particular brewer’s unique taste and personality.

What was the turning point for you?

I spent five years honing my craft, and one year after I became head brewer, I won an award for Sake-brewing. That definitely gave me a much-needed boost of confidence.

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feature

Bring Home a Piece of Yamaguchi

These gifts and souvenirs will mean so much more once you find out more about the stories behind them.

Ouchi Dolls from the Furusato Cultural Center Originating from Yamaguchi, the creation of these dolls was inspired by the story of a governor, Hiroyo Ouchi, who married a lady from Kyoto. As his wife was frequently homesick, he adorned a room with many Kyoto-style dolls. Today, these dolls are created using the traditional craft of lacquering, and each pair takes an average of three months to complete, as the craftsman needs to wait up to two weeks for each layer to dry before moving onto the next. These amazing pieces of art will make the perfect centrepiece for your living room.

Seed Oil from Hagi Tsubaki Those who insist only using all-natural products on your skin will love Tsubaki – or camellia seed – oil, which will help skin stay soft and hydrated. So pure is this oil that the people who manufacture it claim that you can even cook with it!

Glassware from Hagi Glass Art Studio

Furnishings from Iwakawa Hataten Based on Hagi, where fishing is a huge industry, Iwakawa Hataten has made flags for the launch of new boats. While they continue to do so, they also run a successful business selling tote bags and home furnishings with the designs of these traditional flags. Call it a happy accident; someone is the family noticed a pile of defective flags building up in storage and decided that it would be a great idea to recycle them into something more useful. The cheery, colourful designs of their cushions are just what you need to add a vibrant touch to your home.

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Glass was first made in Hagi during the end of the Edo period in the mid-19th century, though the industry did not last long. The art of glass-making in Hagi was revived in 1992 with the aim of producing glass of similar quality, as well as nurturing a generation of craftsmen skilled in glass-making. The studio makes its own glass from scratch using processed quart basalt mined locally and as the rock is melted down from an exceptionally high temperature, the glass it’s made from is exceptionally hardy.

Souvenirs

Kamaboko from Chukobee Kamaboko, or fish cake, is ubiquitous in Japanese cuisine; it’s often added to noodle dishes to make it a more filling meal.

Chukobee, a manufacturer of Kamaboko, has been around since 1855. The Kamaboko here has a chewy texture, and you can get them in different flavours – try the one with Yuzu to add a piquant touch to your bowl of noodle soup.

Sake from Harada Shuho If you’re on the lookout for a one-stop shop to bring home some Sake made in Yamaguchi, you won’t go wrong with Harada Shuho. Located just off the bustling Yuda Onsen stretch in Yamaguchi city, you’ll be spoiled for choice with the selection. One to look out for is the Chuya no Sato; it’s named after the famous Japanese poet, and the label even bears his poems. Besides Sake, the shop also stocks a small selection of liquor and Japanese beers.

Uirou from Hondaya Hondaya makes Uirou, a steamed cake with a chewy texture similar to that of Mochi. Forget chemicals or preservatives; only natural ingredients are used to make these treats, and they make different flavours that correspond with what’s available during the season. For spring, you can enjoy Uirou made with cherry blossoms. During summer, two varieties are available: green tea with white bean, and summer orange. For autumn and winter, Hondaya produces Uirou made with chestnuts and black sugar respectively. These will also make lovely gifts for friends and family back home; Hondaya has specially commissioned an artist to design the quirky wrapping paper that depicts the four seasons.

Natsumikan Maruzuke from Mitsukuni The first thing you’re likely to notice about Hagi city is its abundance of Natsumikan (summer orange) trees. You can even see them flourishing on road dividers! Mitsukuni, which has been around for 150 years, is known for making sweets and jams using the fruit. The orange with white bean paste, takes a laborious five days to make.

After it’s been cleaned of its pulp and left to simmer in syrup, hot bean paste is then poured into each and every orange by hand.

Another day is given for it to harden, after which it’s dusted with sugar. Contrary to what you might think, it’s not cloyingly sweet, and great for when you want to offer guests something to nibble on.

Besides dried orange sweets, the shop also sells orange marmalade.

Beer from Cyonmage

Seaweed from Inoue Shouten

The term “Cyonmage” refers to the distinctive Samurai hairdo back in their heyday. This microbrewery has been around since 1997 and it has four variants of German-style beer: pilsner, pale ale, alter, and weizen.

We like the weizen for its distinctive hoppy flavour; it will pair well with red meat.

Japanese sprinkle seaweed over their rice to help whet their appetites, particularly in summer when the weather is warm. At Inoue Shouten, you’ll be able to take home seaweed with a variety of flavours such as basil, and summer orange.

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Listings

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HAGI CITY

YAMAGUCHI CITY

Dining / Food & Drink Chiyo 20–4 Imafuruhagimachi, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0021 Tel: 0838-22-1128

Dining / Food & Drink Bari Soba / Nanase 6-8-61 Yudaonsen, Yamaguchi-shi, Yamaguchi 753-0056 Tel: 083-924-4800

Cyonmage Beer/ Yamaguchi Hagi Beer Co., Ltd 608-1 Hijwara, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0025 Tel: 0838-25-5612

Shouchan croquette 106 Kamitatekoji, Yamaguch-shii, Yamaguchi 753-0035 Tel: 083-922-8044

Don Don 377 Hijiwara, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0025 Tel: 0838-22-7537 Midoriya Farm 89 Horiuchi, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0057 Tel: 0838-25-1232

Camellia Oil/ Michi no Eki-Hagioukan 1258 Oaza Tubaki, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0061 Tel:0838-22-9889

Ryumon 376 Hijiwara, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0025 Tel: 0838-22-1772

Hagi Glass Art Studio 1189-453 Koshigahama, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0011 Tell: 0838-26-2555

Sights Hagi Castle Town/ Horiuchi Kaimagari, The Ruin of Hagi Castle Horiuchi, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi

Hagi Sea Mart 4160-61 Chintou, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0011 Tel:0838-24-4937

JIBITA 25-27 Furuhagicho, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0026 Tel: 0838 25 6994 Kasayama Camellia Forest Koshigahama, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0011

Inoue Shoten 9-1 Higashihamasaki-cho, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0024 Tel: 0838-22-0812

Kumaya Art Museum 47 Imauonotanamachi, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0052 Tel: 0838-25-5535

Mitsukuni 41 Kumayacho, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0034 Tel: 0838-22-0239

Shoka Sonjuku/Shoin Shrine 1537 Chintou, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0011 Tel: 0838-22-4643 Yukawa Family Old Residence/ Aiba Waterway 67 Kawashima, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0031 Tel: 0838-25- 3139 Shopping Chukobee 2757-1 Tsubakijingahara, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0061 Tel: 0838-22-0457

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Iwakawa Hataten 40 Furuhagicho, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi 758-0026 Tel: 0838-22-0273

Special Thanks: Accomodations Hotel Nishi-no Miyabi Tokiwa 4-6-4 Yudaonsen Yamaguchi-shi, Yamaguchi 753-0056 Tel: 083-922-0091 Hagi-no Yado Tomoe 608-53 Koboji Hijwara, Hagi-Shi, Yamaguchi 758-0025 Tel: 0838-22-0150

Hondaya / Kaiko-an 1-4-5 Ekidoori, Yamaguchi-shi, Yamaguchi 753-0048 Tel: 083-925-1600 Kanemitsu Brewery 5031 Yoshikawa, Yamaguchi-shi, Yamaguchi 754-0897 Tel: 083-989-2020 Yamaguchi Furusato Heritage Center 12 Simotatekoji, Yamaguchi-shi, Yamaguchi 753-0034 Tel:083-928-3333

Yamaguchi Narutaki Kogen Brewery 1360-4, Oaza Shimokosaba Yamaguchi-shi, Yamaguchi 753-0212 Tel:083-941-0100 Sights Ruriko-ji Temple 7-1 Kozancho, Yamaguchi-shi, Yamaguchi 753-0081 Tel:083-924-9139 Saikoutei 1-2-7 Tenge, Yamaguchi-shi, Yamaguchi 753-0091 Tel: 083-934-3312 Yamaguchi Center for Arts and Media (YCAM) 7-7 Nakazonocho, Yamaguchi-shi, Yamaguchi 753-0075 Tel: 083-901-2222

SHIMONOSEKI CITY

Yamaguchi Xavier Memorial Church 4-1B Kameyamacho, Yamaguchishi, Yamaguchi 753-0089 Tel: 083-920-1549

Dining / Food & Drink Kawara Soba / Takase 5437 Oaza Kawatana, Toyouracho, Shimonoseki-shi, Yamaguchi 759-6301 Tel: 083-772-2680

Shopping Harada Shuho 1-11-23 Yudaonsen, Yamaguchi-shi, Yamaguchi 753-0056 Tel: 083-922-1500

Shopping Karato Sea Market 5-50 Karatocho, Shimonoseki-shi, Yamaguchi 750-0005 Tel: 083-231-0001

City of Hagi Mr Kenji Oohira, Economical Revitalization and Enterprise Attraction Division, Department of Commerce, Industry and Tourism City of Yamaguchi Mr Ryo Takeuchi, Deputy Section Chief, Tourism Division, Economic & Industrial Affairs Department Ms Keiko Harada, Chief Inspector, Commercial & Industry Promotion Division

masters

Rolling With

SUSHI MASTERS

C

ontrary to popular belief, sushi did not originate from Japan. Said to have its beginnings in Southeast Asia then spread to south China between 3rd and 4th century BC, it was only introduced to Japan during the 8th century. But as with some of the Japanese delicacies we are so familiar with today, even though sushi isn’t an indigenous Japanese dish, what the locals improvised and reinvented centuries ago made sushi a creation the country can proudly call its own.

The original form of sushi, nare-zushi, was created as a method to preserve fish using fermented rice. Fish was – and still is – an important source of protein, and it was left to ferment along with rice for three months to a year before it was consumed. The rice, however, was discarded. This method of preserving fish later spread throughout South China, before it was finally introduced to Japan during the Heian period. Then, the dish underwent its first improvisation – rather than discarding the rice and fully preserving the fish, the Japanese ate the rice along with the partly raw fish (preserved for between one week to one month) so as to maintain its freshness. By the end of the Muromachi period, this dish had had a new name: namanare-zushi.

It was during the Edo period that the Japanese once more

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reinvented the dish for one that has since become unique to Japanese culture: haya-zushi. Rice was no longer used for fermentation purposes; it was mixed with vinegar and served with fish, vegetables and other dried preserved foods. Later in the early 19th century, when mobile food stalls peppered the streets of Edo (now Tokyo), nigiri-zushi was a popular fast food of choice among the locals. Like the basic form of sushi we see today, nigiri-zushi was made up of a slice of fish placed atop a bite-sized portion of rice. This dish gained nation-wide recognition after the Great Kanto earthquake in 1923.

In Singapore, the uptake of Japanese cuisine among the locals was slow at first, but it quickly gained a foothold in the late 1980s. According to Chef Shiraishi Shinji, owner of Shiraishi, there were only 36 Japanese restaurants when he first came to Singapore in 1982. When he returned in 1990, the number rose to 150. Today, there are over 800 of them, including more than 100 sushi joints. While sushi is enjoyed as an occasional meal in Japan, the burgeoning demand of sushi in Singapore is a clear indication that many locals here regard the dish as part of their everyday meal.

But would the fine art of preparing sushi become lost among the bevy of sushi joints popping up across the island? We speak to three sushi masters to find out more.

PHOTOGRAPHY CHARLES CHUA/A THOUSAND WORDS TEXT TAN LILI

With the increasing popularity of sushi joints here, it’s no news that Singaporeans are a sushi-eating bunch. But what is it about sushi that makes it an islandwide favourite? And how do you tell a good sushi from a bad one?

Ronnie Chia, director of Tatsuya What is the secret behind the success of Tatsuya?

To me, the success of a business is akin to maintaining a happy marriage. A happy, healthy marriage is entirely dependent on both the husband and the wife; it’s about teamwork. Likewise, for any business to succeed, teamwork is key. I even came up with my own mnemonic for the word “team”: Together, Everybody Achieves More. Without a good team to lay as the foundation, there wouldn’t be a business.

Another philosophy I live by is to be the jack of one trade, and master of one. The toughest part about businesses is maintenance. Many people have asked me to expand my business, but the way I see it, when I maintain the success of one restaurant, I also maintain the consistency of the quality the restaurant delivers.

Define good sushi – what goes into it?

It’s a total package deal. The quality of the ingredients plays a crucial role, of course, but it all starts with the chef. Pay

attention to the way he prepares the sushi – the passion with which a good chef prepares the dish is almost palpable, and which will also give rise to excellent service and sense of hygiene. The cutting technique has got to be precise as well; I reckon this is the utmost important skill every sushi chef should possess, yet only a few have genuinely perfected it.

What do you look out for when you train someone to become a sushi chef?

I am very selective with chefs. Apart from the prerequisite dedication, good sense of hygiene and culinary skills, they have to maintain a high level of professionalism and, most importantly, have a positive attitude. As sushi chefs, we have to constantly interact with our clients, who largely consist of macro- and microdecision makers. Without a good attitude – both professional and personal – it takes away our promise of an allencompassing dining experience from our clients.

While most 13-year-old teenagers would be juggling between school and play, Chia left school to become a kitchen runner at a Japanese restaurant in a bid to support his family. His initial climb up the culinary ladder wasn’t met without hardship, but Chia took it in stride – giving up was never an option.

Under his mentor Chef Yoshio Nogawa, one of Singapore’s most respected chefs famed for introducing authentic sushi to the country, Chia mastered the fine art of preparing traditional Japanese cuisine. In 2002, he set up the highly acclaimed Japanese fine dining restaurant Tatsuya, and has since received numerous accolades – including the World Gourmet Summit Asian Ethnic Chef of the Year (2007 and 2008) and Tung Lok Asian Cuisine Chef of the Year (2011) – for his exceptional culinary skills. A man of quotable quotes, Chia’s motto in life is to “start young, think big, and stick to it”.

Tatsuya is located at 22 Scotts Road, Goodwood Park Hotel, Tel: 6887 4598

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Shiraishi Shinji,

head chef and owner of Shiraishi Having been in the business of sushi-making for 37 years, Shiraishi is a name that needs no introduction. When he first came to Singapore in 1982, Japanese restaurants were few and far between, and most of them were catered to the Japanese expats.

“It’s been fascinating to witness the history of Japanese cuisine in Singapore and how it has evolved over the years,” says Shiraishi.

His toothy smile is perhaps the reason why he decided to specialise in this particular type of Japanese cuisine when he was 18 years old – whenever young Shiraishi stepped into a sushi bar, he noticed that the chefs were always happily engaging with the clients from the counter, and the clients would leave the restaurant with a smile.

“Sushi makes you happy, whether you are the sushi chef or the diner,” Shiraishi grins.

Shiraishi is located at #03-01/02 The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore, 7 Raffles Avenue, Tel: 6338 3788

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Can you share with us your secret to creating good sushi?

The steps to making sushi are actually really simple, but good sushi lies in how you prepare it. The temperature of the rice has got to be just right. When I hold it in my hand, the temperature should be as close to that of my body as possible. As a sushi chef, you have to be able to feel every grain of rice in your hand. At the same time, you have to make sure the rice contains the right amount of air as I mold the rice so its texture is consistently light and fluffy in your mouth. But the most important aspect of good sushi is the heart – when a chef doesn’t put in 100 percent of his mind and energy into making sushi, you will be able to tell from not just the way he prepares the sushi but also the taste of it. I put my heart into making each and every sushi; it is my dedication to my craft.

Your approach to making sushi is obviously very different from other sushi chefs. Besides your strong level of commitment, what are some of the other areas unique to Shiraishi?

The cutting technique I use is something you’d be hard-pressed to find in other restaurants. Many sushi chefs slice the fish in one angle – slanted – but the proper cutting technique involves a constant change in the direction with which you slice the fish, based on the part of the fish you’re serving. There is also a certain rhythm I developed in the assembly of the

sushi. Usually clients might not see it, but I try not to touch the fish as much as possible. I’ll let you in on one more secret: the fingerbowl I use consists of part vinegar and part water, which is a mix almost similar to that used in sushi rice.

This helps maintain the consistency of flavours in the final product.

What are some of the challenges a sushi chef-in-training would likely face?

To become a trained sushi chef, many chefs would say it’d take between five and 10 years. But to be honest, to be a true sushi master, it can take 10 to 15 years.

One of the main challenges lies in mastering the cutting technique. The chef-in-training probably wouldn’t even get to touch the knives during his first year of training! When he eventually gets to use the knives, he usually starts by cutting vegetables like cucumber and white radish before moving on to small fish and, later, bigger ones. Another reason why the training takes so many years is because of the use of seasonal ingredients in Japanese cuisine. This means, in order for you to serve the freshest in-season ingredients, you would have only two weeks to prepare/cook them. In other words, since the ingredients would be available in the market for only two weeks a year, you’d have to wait for the next year to get another batch of fresh seasonal ingredients. It’s all about accumulative experience.

You seem to take pride in the way you style your dishes, from the meticulous arrangement of the food to the added floral touches. Is art an important element to you?

Yes. In fact, my passion was in painting when I was younger. Even though I was helping my father at the restaurant, I had wanted to be a painter. I tried selling my artwork but it wasn’t very successful.

When I was around 19 years told, I thought to myself, “Maybe I would be able to sell my paintings at higher prices if I became a famous chef!” Of course, later on I fell in love with a new art form: sushi-making. It also involves creativity, in that I have to constantly come up with fresh ideas for the dishes and the way I present them.

Define a true sushi master.

Someone who isn’t me! Despite my title, I believe I am still training to be one. It’s a continuous process – there is no end-date.

I was 22 years old when I made my first sushi for customers. After taking a bite, one customer told my father, “I do not want to eat sushi prepared by a part-time chef.” My father discarded the sushi I made and prepared a fresh set for the customer, before revealing that I am his

son. Of course the customer was taken aback and even tried apologising, but my father insisted the customer was right, that I did need the training. I really appreciated that my father did not give me any special treatment just because of our relationship – it’s taught me a great lesson in humility.

What sets Hashida apart from other sushi restaurants?

Our clients often rave about the rice we use, asking us what special ingredients we add to the flavouring. We never disclose the secret, of course – only my father and I are privy to the recipe of our rice. The way we present our dishes is also pretty unique. I am stoked that I can incorporate my love of art into sushi-making, in the way I style the dish.

With so many smaller sushi joints on the rise, do you think the market is getting saturated?

I never think of it as a competition, to be honest. From my perspective, we are all helping to bring the Japanese culture into Singapore; from a customer’s point of view, trying out different sushi bars feels almost like a source of entertainment. It’s definitely a win-win situation.

Kenjiro Hatch Hashida,

master chef and owner of Hashida Sushi Singapore At 35 years old, Hatch may be one of the youngest sushi masters – though he vehemently declines to be called so. He graduated from L’Ecole Tsuji Tokyo – Japan’s top culinary school – and did a year-long stint at Japanese-themed restaurant The Geisha in Shanghai, but his affinity with the kitchen harks back to more than 20 years ago, right at home. His father, Tokio Hashida, is an acclaimed sushi master who has been running Hashida Sushi in Tokyo for over 40 years. Ever since Hatch turned 12, he started helping his father at the restaurant on weekends, wiping down the counters and running all kinds of errands. His commitment to carrying on his family’s legacy was fulfilled when he, together with three other chefs, opened Hashida Sushi’s first overseas branch last year in Singapore.

Hashida Sushi Singapore is located at #02-37 Mandarin Gallery, 333A Orchard Road, Tel: 6733 2114

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recipes

A Bountiful HARVEST

J

apanese cuisine places a strong emphasis on the freshness and seasonality of a variety of ingredients. The Japanese are known to enjoy the taste of high-quality food ingredients that are available only during a specific time and season. One of the beloved harbingers of Spring is Takenoko (bamboo shoots). They are usually harvested around March to May in Japan, and are considered a Spring delicacy. However, fresh bamboo shoots tend to be bitter so they need to be pre-cooked after being harvested. In any case, in today’s modern and fast-paced society, most people use convenient pre-cooked bamboo shoots instead of freshly harvested ones.

Takenoko is known for its slightly

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cold and subtly sweet flavour, and can be served on its own as a side dish or together with other ingredients in a main dish. Apart from its refreshing flavour, studies have also shown that bamboo shoots have a number of health benefits, such as cancer prevention, weight loss, and improving digestion.

One of the quintessential Japanese springtime dishes is Takenoko Gohan, where the bamboo shoots are cooked together with rice and Shiitake mushrooms. The bamboo shoots lend a subtle aroma to the rice, and retain its crunchy texture. Another way of enjoying Takenoko would be in a Chirashi Sushi. Also known as “scattered sushi”, Chirashi Sushi brings together many colourful ingredients such as boiled

seafood, vegetables, and pickles for a toothsome treat.

Another popular Spring vegetable is Nanohana, which is most closely related to broccoli. While plain-green Nanohana is now readily available almost all year round, it’s only in early spring when you see the bright yellow-green hues of Nanohana. This is a very versatile vegetable – the florets, stems, and leaves are all edible – and can be enjoyed in many different ways. The most traditional way to eat Nanohana in Japan is as the side dish Ohitashi, but you can also enjoy it steamed, boiled, stir-fried, in soups, and even deep-fried with tempura batter. Unlike several other early Spring vegetables, Nanohana doesn’t taste bitter or have a tannic quality to it, so it doesn’t need any special pre-treatment.

TEXT VANESSA TAI

Springtime spells the end of winter and the abundance of fresh produce.

Tokyo Sushi Academy shows you creative ways to enjoy Japan’s Spring vegetables.

A Bountiful Harvest

Spring Vegetable Chirashi Sushi

Ingredients (for 2 persons):

A: Takenoko with Saikyo Miso dressing (Left) Ingredients (for 2 persons):

Sushi rice 500g

Ingredients A (To be mixed with sushi rice)

4 tbsp chopped boiled Kanpyo (dried gourd shavings) pickles 1 pinch of white sesame seed 1 pinch of Nori dried seaweed

Ingredients B (To be put on top of mixed sushi rice)

4 pieces boiled Shiitake mushroom (cut into half ) 4 slices Takenoko (bamboo shoot)

4 pieces salt-boiled prawn (diced)

4 pieces salt-boiled broccoli

8 pieces boiled Takenoko (cut into sakura leaf shape) Âź block thick Japanese Tamago-yaki (grilled egg)

8 pieces Sakura leaf

4 slices red snapper Sashimi

4 slices salmon Sashimi 2 sticks boiled Fuki (butterbur) 2 sticks boiled asparagus

Directions:

1. Mix ingredients A with sushi rice 2. Put mixed sushi rice in the food box 3. Put prepared ingredients B in the box

Spring Vegetable Appetisers

60g boiled Takenoko (diced) 2 tbsp Saikyo Miso

2 Sansho (Japanese pepper) leaves

Directions:

1. Grind Sansho leaves with Saikyo Miso 2. Mix with diced boiled Takenoko

B: Prawn and Spring Vegetables (Centre) Ingredients:

2 pieces salt-boiled prawn

6 pieces boiled broad bean 2 pieces Tamago-yaki (grilled egg) 2 pieces boiled Zenmai (flowering fern) 1 pinch boiled swordfish

C: Takenoko Rice (Right) Ingredients:

2 slices Takenoko (thinly sliced) 1 pinch Soy sauce

1 pinch Mirin

40 g cooked rice

Directions:

1. Mix rice with all the ingredients in a bowl 2. Place A to C on a bamboo sheath, and serve Recipes provided by 133 New Bridge Road Chinatown Point B2-17, Singapore 059413 Telephone: 6444 7828 Email: info@sushiacademy.sg Website: www.sushiacademy.sg

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cool bites

TASTY LANDSCAPES Shikino Nagamori and Tomoni Takaoka met as colleagues while they were both working at an architecture firm. They soon bonded over a common artistic vision – to create stunning works of art using food as their medium – and in 2012, the Tokyo-based HOO was born. We speak to Shikino Nagamori to find out what inspires the dynamic duo.

Above: The ladies behind HOO; Shikino Nagamori and Tomoni Takaoka

What exactly is HOO all about?

We see ourselves as designers of “food landscapes”; we use food to create stunning and impactful visuals for clients when they organise events. While we don’t always prepare the food ourselves, we work with chefs and caterers to conceptualise the whole setup. On the side, we also work as artists using food as a medium to realise our artistic visions.

Tell us about some of the clients that you’ve worked with.

We worked with Louis Vuitton on an event when they collaborated with Yayoi Kusama on a collection. She’s known for her use of polka dots and other repetitive patterns so, of course, we had a lot of fun with that. We consider ourselves lucky because our clients so far have given us a lot of freedom to realise our artistic visions.

How did the idea for HOO come about?

My business partner and I worked on designing outdoor spaces on a large scale when we were working at the architectural firm.

But we have always harboured visions of having people experience our work in a more intimate way. Our end goal, in a sense, was to get “closer” to the people who viewed our work, and it really doesn’t get more “micro” than by using food as a medium for our art.

What are some of the independent pieces that you’ve worked on?

One of the most memorable ones we’ve done is called “Earthspoon” where we sought to recreate some of Earth’s landscapes – the Great Barrier Reef and the Gobi Desert, for instance – on a spoon. Our goal was to have people experience a shift in consciousness and think more deeply about their relationship with nature.

But food is such an ephemeral medium.

The act of eating is very proactive process and visceral experience.

There may be no evidence of our art left behind after it’s been eaten, but in a sense, the food “transforms” and becomes a part of people’s bodies, and there’s something beautiful about that.

Have the two of you ever had creative differences?

We rarely argue, to be honest. Of course, we don’t always agree on every single detail, but we’ve always managed to work things out through in-depth discussions. These exchanges of ideas are entirely necessary if we are to fully realise our vision.

To find out more about HOO, check out their Facebook page (in Japanese) https://www.facebook.com/hoo.landscapeandfood.

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TEXT DENISE LI

Clockwise from left: “Earthspoon” showcase; Louis Vuitton event; “Repeat” showcase

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did you know

COOK A POT OF RICE

Rice is such a staple in our everyday diet – but have you ever stopped to think about what goes into cooking this humble grain?

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Cook a Pot of Rice

PHOTO FOTOLIA TEXT DEBORAH GIAM

I

n every Asian kitchen, from generations ago, there has always been a pot of rice. In the early days before electricity became a mainstay in homes; rice was cooked very traditionally in a style called Kamado, where earthen pots (and later, stainless steel ones) were used. These were placed directly over an open fire and it took great skill to cook a perfect pot of rice because of the constant attention it needed.

In fact, even when electricity was first introduced to help with rice cooking in the 1930s, it was still extremely primitive – imagine a wooden rice box with two electrodes attached to each end. To cook the rice, the box was filled with the grains and water, and electricity was switched on. However, this carried a huge risk of electrocution, and wasn’t quite ideal for everyday use. In the 1940s, Sony also released its first rice cooker, among several other inventions. However, it was considered a failure because of the inconsistent result of the cooked rice.

It was only in 1955 where the first fully automatic rice cooker was born from Toshiba, and a year later from Matsushita, changing the way rice was cooked in kitchens every day. It would have made bigger waves in Japan, except it was overshadowed by the innovation of three other products at the time - the television, the washing machine, and the refrigerator. This groundbreaking invention had a simple premise: rice was put into a pot, and water into a surrounding container. As the water in the outer pot boiled away, the increase in temperature activated a thermostat, which automatically turned off the cooker. The only problem was that rice cooled quickly after it was cooked and needed to be moved to an insulated pot to keep warm for mealtimes.

Moving forward, rice cookers became more sophisticated and efficient. They included insulated containers and removable pots, which were usually coated with a non-stick surface and marked with water-level notches to take the guesswork out of the amount of water needed. In 1965, a key feature in rice cookers became available, thanks to Zojirushi – the keep-warm function. This essentially kept rice warm for up to 24 hours and was not just convenient but also helped to keep the growth of the bacteria Bacillus cereus at bay, preventing a major cause of food poisoning. In 1967, Mitsubishi even allowed rice cookers to time when to cook rice and to keep it warm after.

In the 80s, the higher-end electric rice cookers also had microprocessors to help control the cooking process as well as an electronic timer to automatically start the cooking process at a specified time. It was in the 1990s when you could use the rice cooker for so much more, even allowing for different cooking results depending on the types of rice, or whether you wanted the rice to be grainier or more porridge-like. Some even had the ability to make cakes and breads. The Hitachi rice cooker uses pressure and steam induction heating to cook, and efficiently recycles the steam water to keep the rice warm later on.

These days, you can find high-end models made of special materials such as hand-carved pure carbon for the inner pot – this allows for better heat transfer with the induction cooking. And it’s not uncommon to find cookers with rice bowls made of pure copper, ceramic-iron layers or even a diamond coating. Talk about adding some bling to your diet.

Rice Cookers Through Time

RICE IS NICE!

There are quite a number of different types of rice that you can enjoy. Here are some of the more common varieties easily available in your supermarket.

LONG-GRAIN RICE This is the type of rice you typically find in Chinese restaurants and is easily available at all supermarkets. This type of rice has a dry, fluffy texture with distinctive grains.

BROWN LONG-GRAIN RICE Similar to the long-grain this is the ‘healthier’ version as both the bran and germ are left on the rice grain. This gives the rice a slightly nuttier flavour but will also need a longer time to cook.

BASMATI RICE Predominantly found in Indian and Pakistani cuisine, this grain is extra-long and quite fragrant.

JASMINE RICE This Thai variant is long and translucent and has a soft, clingy texture.

JAPANESE RICE What’s used for sushi because of its firm but sticky texture.

BEFORE ELECTRICITY WAS USED

The first rice cooker was very elementary, and was in fact, cooked over an open flame fire in an eathern pot.

THE EARLY DAYS

As technology progressed, it became more convenient as rice cookers sported a timer function.

CONVENIENCE AND EASE

Then rice cookers also carried the ‘keep warm’ function, which also helped to keep bacteria at bay.

BOMBA The rice of choice for making paella. These grains absorb twice as much liquid as long-grain rice without getting too sticky, like the shortgrained varieties.

ARBORIO Widely used for making risotto, these have plump grains that become sticky when cooked.

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Cook a Pot of Rice

Rice Cookers There’s such a wide variety of rice cookers out on the market now, so we asked Mr Yasutaka Inoue from the Home Appliance Group, Products Planning Division, Overseas Product Planning Department from Hitachi to give us a few pointers on what to look out for.

How has technology for rice cookers changed through the years?

The first types of rice cookers used a rather simple mechanism, which heated up the inner pot to a set temperature.

Once that temperature was reached, it switched to ‘Keep Warm’ mode. That then moved on to rice cookers that had ‘fuzzy logic’. This type of rice cooker could automatically control temperate and time for the cooking to start, and also the heating and steaming process, depending on the surrounding environment. This is also the time that the timer function and other cooking modes first appeared.

Now, you’ll find rice cookers that use induction heating. With the ‘fuzzy logic’ type of cookers, heat was transmitted to the inner pot and the rice inside the pot was then heated. But in the case if induction heating, the inner pot itself is heated directly, which means the temperature can be more controlled, resulting in softer, tastier rice.

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What technology goes into the modern day rice cooker?

In recent years, besides the induction heating technology, you’ll also find that the cookers can now raise the inner pot atmospheric pressure and raise the cooking temperature as well. That’s alongside technology that allows the rice cooker to emit steam inside the inner pot during the steaming process to keep the temperature at an optimum, or to prevent it from becoming too dry during the ‘keep warm’ phase.

What are some of the features in Hitachi rice cookers that people might not know about?

The Hitachi rice cookers use iron for the inner pots to maximize heating efficiency, which complements the induction heating process. The thick inner pot also helps to maintain an even temperature during the cooking process, while using both pressure and steam keep the optimum temperature without burning the rice, so you’ll always have soft, moist and delicious rice.

And if steam damage is a problem in your kitchen, the Hitachi KV series actually cuts any visible steam during the cooking process. By using a mechanism to adjust the steam during the pressure stage, it keeps the steam inside without compromising on the quality of the rice being cooked. And in this instance, because there’s no escaped steam to damage your walls or any part of your kitchen, you can place it almost anywhere that’s convenient to you.

What are the three most important things people should look out for when choosing a rice cooker?

1. The type of rice cooker. Whether it’s a conventional type, a fuzzy logic type or an induction heating type. Induction heating is the most accurate and efficient, because it gives you the most control over how the rice is cooked, meaning you never have to second-guess how your rice is going to come out.

2. Material and thickness of the inner pot. Iron has a very high heating efficiency, especially when it comes to induction heating. The Hitachi induction heating cookers use a 3.0mm thermal sprayed iron pot for the KV series, and a 2.3mm black thick iron pot for the KG series.

3. Additional features. Features such as pressure, steam and vapor cut. The new induction heating rice cookers use pressure and steam at the same time to cook the rice, both help to maintain the optimum temperature inside the pot so you’ll never end up with burnt rice.

How should people care for their rice cookers, so that they will work efficiently?

Make sure that you keep it clean, so there’s no dirt stuck on the upper rim of the inner pot, or on the lid of the rice cooker. If there’s dirt, the steam might escape and the pressure inside the inner pot will be uneven or the temperature could be less than ideal, resulting in rice that isn’t cooked quite as nice.

Publisher Takeshi NAITO MEDIA JAPAN PTE LTD 82 Genting Lane #04-04 Media Centre Singapore 349567 Tel: (65)6748-1822 E-mail: info@oishii.sg Website:www.oishii.sg Editor in Chief Chiharu KUWAJIMA Editorial Partner Material World LLP Designer Gina Ang Emily Ng Photographer Moritsugu MAKITAO (P12-22) Charles Chua (Cover, P26-29) Raymond Toh (P10) Printed in Singapore NPE Print Communications Pte Ltd

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Oishii is the publication under Media Japan Pte Ltd. While every effort has been made to ensure that information is correct at the time of print, Media Japan Pte Ltd cannot be held responsible for the outcome of any action or decision based on the information contained in this publication or any websites and publicity materials associated with it. The publishers and authors do not give any warranty for the completeness or accuracy for this publication’s content, explanation or opinion. All rights are reserved and no part of this publication may be reproduced in part or in full without the formal written permission of the publisher.

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MCI(P)153/08/2013

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