Discovery Alaska
A tempting culinary selection A delightful array of shops on board AlAskA — 2013 cruises
The best way to see Alaska
PleAse return mAgAzine to stAteroom At voyAge end
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fire, earth, wind & water
Š KABANA. All designs protected by copyright laws. All rights reserved. Reproduction/Duplication prohibited.
the elements ColleCtIon
DiamonDs international Juneau, Skagway and Ketchikan na Hoku Hawaii GeorGios & Co. Mykonos, Greece tHe GolD Corner Florence, Italy For your nearest retailer call 800.521.5986 or visit us at www.kabana.net
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Gold Quartz ColleCtIon
MADE IN U.S.A. Since 1975
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T
H
E
A
R
T
O
F
F
U
S
I
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Big Bang Ferrari. UNICO column wheel chronograph movement, 72-hour power reserve. Entirely manufactured by Hublot. Titanium case and sapphire dial. Interchangeable black rubber straps with either black leather and black stitching or alcantara with red and black stitching. Limited edition of 1000 pieces.
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DIAMONDS INTERNATIONAL Ketchikan - Juneau - Skagway
www.hublot.com •
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twitter.com/hublot •
facebook.com/hublot
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TWO WORLD RECORDS
To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its legendary Calibre 12P launched in 1960, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget sets two new records in the ultra-thin quest. Featuring an off-centred oscillating weight, the new generation 1208P is the world’s thinnest automatic movement on the market at just 2.35 mm thick - a first record. Thanks to this new Calibre 1208P, the Piaget Altiplano watch measures just 5.25 mm thick, making it the world’s thinnest automatic watch - a second record.
P T W T P
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ULTIMATE DISCRETION
PIAGET ALTIPLANO The world’s thinnest automatic watch White gold case, 5.25 mm thick The world’s thinnest automatic movement Piaget Manufacture Calibre, 2.35 mm thick
Diamonds International Juneau, Ketchikan and Skagway
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EL PRIMERO STRATOS The first watch to break the sound barrier in a near space environment
www.zenith-watches.com/felixbaumgartner
DIAMONDS INTERNATIONAL Ketchikan - Juneau - Skagway
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MISSION TO THE EDGE OF SPACE Felix Baumgartner, holder of three new records after his freefall jump from the stratosphere during the Red Bull Stratos Mission
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Table
of contents
Discovery 2013 Cruises
40 54
26 34
30 32 34
Welcome Aboard
2238 50
Service Excellence
Nighttime Activities
Delicious Dilemma
When the sun goes down, the curtain rises on a constellation of thrilling nighttime enticements.
Freshly prepared cuisine Dining options to match your tastes and mood — that’s dining on board your Princess ship.
38
The Night Belongs to You
52
Casino
54
Shows & Entertainment
Do It All or Nothing At All
56
Princess Cruises Captain’s CircleSM
Daytime Activities
58
Future Cruise Sales
You’ll discover an incredible variety of activities, enrichment programs and other entertaining options each day on board.
40
Lotus Spa ® & The Sanctuary
42
Boutiques Onboard
44
Princess Photography
part, including but not limited to transmission by any means, in any form — digital, electronic,
45
Enrichment Programs
from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of
45
Fine Art Auctions
unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or other material. Electronic queries only will
46
Movies Under the Stars ®
in Discovery are not necessarily those of the cruise line. Princess Cruises is not responsible for
48
Youth & Teen Programs
The contents of this magazine are protected by copyright. Reproduction, either in whole or in mechanical, photocopying, or otherwise — is forbidden without express, written permission
be acknowledged. E-mail to: editor@onboardmedia.com. Commentary and opinions expressed any claims or offers made in advertisements appearing in Discovery.
COVER PHOTO: Princess Cruises in Alaska
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Signature Collection 41D-CMOP-OGM
KETCHIKAN – DI Watch & Design and Blue Diamond JUNEAU – DI Watch & Design and Blue Diamond SKAGWAY – DI Watch & Design
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Table
of contents
Discover Style Objects of Desire Brand Finder Natural Attraction Denali National Park A Brief History of an Ancient Land Call of the Wild Cold Hard Facts
60 66 70 72 78 82 96 104
128
96 106 Discover Our
Ports of Call Map of Alaska Juneau Ketchikan Skagway Regional Highlights Notes on other destinations to visit in Alaska and Canada and on America's West Coast.
12
106 108 126 148 166
104
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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raymond-weil.com | freelancer collection
JUNEAU - Blue Diamond | KETCHIKAN - Blue Diamond
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1691 Michigan Avenue, Suite 600, Miami Beach, Fl 33139 Tel: (305) 673-0400, Fax: (305) 674-9396 www.onboardmedia.com Sarah Beth Reno Robin Rosenbaum-Andras Noelle Sipos Carrie Julier Norma Vila Kate McClare MaryAnna Estomba Haley Struthers Maria Blanco
president senior Vice president Vice president, operations Vice president, cruise revenue & sales Vice president, finance editorial & design executive editor Managing editor Media coordinator editorial intern
contributing writers: Ginger Dingus, Nick Gallo, Linda Marx, Edward Readicker-Henderson, Stanton H. Patty, Lynn Seldon Virginia C. Valls Dayana Ramirez George Sariego Elizabeth Carlisle Beth Wood Raquel Figueroa Melissa Rodriguez James Perdomo Gail Abrams Violeta Manco-Rojas Tasha Riekstins Tyler Condon Jeffrey Meister Katherine Terc Cristina Viera Todd Hedge Dan Shaw Kevin Maschke Juan Carlos Peña Kyle Ronellenfitch Wesley Emmer Victoria Rossi Leanne Ronellenfitch
— director, design & production project graphic designer project graphic designer art director art director graphic designer production production Manager production coordinator ad services director ad services Manager advertising sales director, international sales & Brand Marketing project sales Manager sales Manager sales coordinator sales coordinator Video/film production producer/director director, operations senior editor senior Videographer port shopping revenue director, cruise revenue regional Marketing Manager regional Marketing Manager coordinator, cruise revenue
port shopping operations Rachel Castro director Marina Castillo assistant Manager Rina Alvarado coordinator, operations — Nadine Winter Manager, customer relations Arelys Zaldivar assistant Manager, customer relations ©2013 onboard media. no claim to original works of Princess crUises or advertisers. sHiPs of bermUdan registrY all rigHts reserved. tHe entire contents of tHis PUblication are Protected bY coPYrigHt. no Part of tHis PUblication maY be reProdUced, stored in a retrieval sYstem or transmitted in anY form or bY anY means, electronic, mecHanical, PHotocoPYing, recording or otHerwise, witHoUt tHe Prior Permission of tHe coPYrigHt owner. Printed in tHe United states of america.
we and oUr content Providers (“we”) Have tried to make tHe information in tHis PUblication as accUrate as Possible, bUt it is Provided “as is” and we accePt no resPonsibilitY for anY loss, injUrY or inconvenience sUstained bY anYone resUlting from tHis information.
These featured businesses have paid to be included in the book. The stores in this book have agreed to provide you with a 60-day guarantee that is detailed in full on your shopping map. This guarantee excludes loss, theft or buyer’s negligence. Many sTores in porT, including sTores ThaT do noT parTicipaTe in The prograM, offer Their own guaranTees. 14
Jean-Pierre Lavoie/shutterstock.com
all articles, descriPtions and sUggestions concerning activities, toUrist attractions and otHer vacation oPPortUnities described in tHis PUblication are merelY exPressions of oPinions bY contribUting writers, do not constitUte tHe oPinions of onboard media, inc. or Princess crUises, and Under no circUmstances constitUte assUrances or gUarantees concerning tHe qUalitY or safetY of anY sUcH attraction or activitY. onboard media, inc. and Princess crUises sPecificallY disclaim anY liabilitY for damages incUrred dUe to tHe attendance or ParticiPation bY readers of tHis PUblication in anY sUcH activitY or attraction, and tHe attendance or ParticiPation in anY sUcH activitY or attraction sHall be made solelY at tHe reader’s own risk.
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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With every Korite Ammolite Purchase, Receive a free Korite Ammolite Pendant. Available at: Diamonds International & Tanzanite International Juneau, Skagway, Ketchikan
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Earn rewards and relax more with the Princess Cruises Rewards Visa card! ®
®
Enjoy great benefits like these: • Low Introductory APR on balance transfers and NO Annual Fee 1 • Earn up to 10,000 BONUS points with qualifying transactions2 • Earn DOUBLE points on all Princess purchases — onboard and ashore 3 • Princess Rewards includes cruise redemptions and discounts, airfare discounts, Lotus Spa treatments & other onboard amenities 4 ®
See your Princess Captain’s Circle Host or Future Cruise Consultant and apply today! 1. The Princess Cruises Rewards Visa Card is issued by Barclays Bank Delaware (“Barclaycard”). Offer subject to credit approval. Benefits will vary depending upon the card for which you are approved. Not everyone will qualify for the Princess Visa Signature Card and its benefits. If at the time of your application you do not meet the credit criteria previously established for this offer, or the income you report is insufficient based on your obligations, we may not be able to open an account for you or you may receive a Platinum card which has fewer benefits. Please review the materials provided with the Cardmember Agreement you will receive after account opening for more information about the benefits that will apply if you are not approved for the Visa Signature credit card. This offer is available to new cardmembers only. For information about rates, fees, other costs, and the reward program rules (including points accrual rate, bonus points awards, etc.) and benefits associated with the use of this credit card program please see the Terms and Conditions. 2. There is no annual fee. Introductory APR on balance transfers is applicable for the first 15 billing cycles after your new account is opened (the “Introductory Period”). For purchases, and for balance transfers after the Introductory Period, the variable APR is 13.99%, 16.99% or 20.99% depending upon our review of your application and your credit history at account opening. The variable APR for cash advances is 25.24%. Subject to applicable law, the APR’s on your account will be increased to a variable Penalty APR which is up to 30.24% if we do not receive timely payments, if you exceed your credit line or if we receive a payment that is not honored by your bank. The APRs on your account will vary with the market based on the Prime Rate. The minimum monthly finance charge will be $2.00. Balance Transfer Fee: 4% min. $10. Cash Advance Fee: 5% (min. $10). Foreign Transaction Fee: 3%. The fee for the purchase of cash equivalent transactions (purchase of money orders, traveler’s checks, foreign currency, lottery tickets, gambling chips or wire transfer): 5% (min. $10). This information is accurate as of 02/01/2012 and is subject to change after this date. Contact 1-866-504-8224 for updated information and for more information about the terms of this offer. 3. Bonus Points: After using your Princess Cruises Rewards Visa Signature Card to make an initial Purchase or Balance Transfer, you will be eligible to receive a one-time bonus award of five thousand (5,000) Princess Points. Bonus Points will be posted at the close of your first billing statement after an initial qualifying purchase or Balance Transfer is made. The Balance Transfer is subject to the Balance Transfer Fee set forth in the Terms and Conditions. Balance Transfer Checks and Convenience Checks do not earn bonus points. Bonus points will be awarded at the close of the billing statement in which you make your first purchase or balance transfer and will be then be credited to your Princess Rewards Visa Account. Balance Transfer Checks do not qualify for bonus points. Balance Transfer Bonus Points: Earn one point per $1 in balances that post to your new account in the first 30 days after your account is opened, up to a maximum of 5,000 points. If you make a balance transfer you will be charged interest on purchases if you do not pay off your entire balance, which includes any transferred balance, by the payment due date each month. There is a fee for Balance Transfers. See the Terms and Conditions for complete details about this offer. 4. Princess Rewards Visa cardmembers will earn two (2) points for every one dollar ($1) of net purchases of Princess purchases with the credit card account, and (1) point for every one dollar ($1) of net purchases made everywhere else the account is used. Restrictions apply. The Princess Rewards Program offers cardmembers the opportunity to earn rewards towards discounted and reduced cruise redemptions. Taxes and fees may apply. Cardmembers will be responsible for all charges incurred in connection with their cruise (including travel to port of departure). Additional charges may include but are not limited to gratuities, onboard purchases, and other charges. Cruise redemptions start at 150,000 points. Other cruise related redemption options are available such as onboard spa experience and merchandise offers. Please visit the Captain’s Circle Host, Future Cruise Consultant or Visa Consultant for a copy of the terms and conditions of this offer and visit princessvisa.com to review full program terms and conditions.
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OF F IC E R 47MM www.ernstbenz.com
Available exclusively at Diamonds International Watch & Design JUNEAU • KETCHIKAN • SKAGWAY
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Hello
from your
Princess Shopping Host! Welcome aboard! We're glad you have joined us on this cruise to the incredible ports of Alaska. It's our job to help you make the most of your vacation, especially when it's time to shop. During this voyage, I’ll provide you with helpful advice about shopping onboard and in the ports of call. I’ll be hosting the live Shopping Spotlight Show and special events on watches and jewelry, and I’ll be available each evening at the Princess Shopping Desk. I’ll also provide you with maps, brochures, Passport to Value booklets and other guidance upon request. You’ll find even more expert guidance on your television, with video replays of the Shopping Spotlight Show and special features about our boutiques onboard. With all this advice, you’ll know exactly how to enjoy the unsurpassed experience of shopping on vacation!
ABOVE: One of the professional Shopping Hosts on the Princess fleet. BELOW: A few of the resources available for your days onboard and ashore.
At your service, Your Princess Shopping Host
Savvy Traveler Alaska Edition 2013
FREE
Diamonds Interna tional Heart Necklace
Great onboard o≠ers Turn to page 433
22
Del Sol Tote Bag
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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UNIQUE ALASKAN GEMS
GOLD QUARTZ COLLECTION IT’S REAL AND IT’S RARE
DON’T GO HOME WITHOUT IT!
GOLD NUGGET COLLECTION
STAR of ALASKA ANCHORAGE The Alaskan Mint 5th Ave Jewelers SITKA & ICY STRAITS Goldsmith Galleries
available at
KETCHIKAN Julie’s Fine Jewelry Julie’s Dock St. Gallery Poker Creek Gold www.orocal.com 800 367 6225
JUNEAU Blue Diamond The Jewel Box SKAGWAY Lynch- Kennedy
-
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Staff
letter
The Great Land beckons! Excitement builds as Alaska’s shore comes into view. A hunger for adventure brought you here, and soon your passion will be fulfilled as you explore one of the world’s greatest wonderlands. It is a land of incredible natural beauty, both on land and at sea. Vast stretches of unspoiled wilderness are home to amazing wildlife and majestic mountains. Charming towns combine modern life with a fascinating heritage of ancient culture. From the gold rush that forever changed the land to the Native traditions that remain forever true, Alaska is an experience that will change you as well. Your journey to Alaska will also be an exciting one, as you can see from this edition of Discovery. It’s packed with information on the many shipboard amenities you’ll enjoy, from mouthwatering cuisine to exquisite boutiques and rejuvenating spa treatments. You’ll also find a calendar of the year’s cruises to other unforgettable destinations. We think you’ll find your visit even more meaningful after reading our guide to the ports of call. It’s an in-depth look at Southeast Alaska’s history and culture, focusing on the region’s Native people and the big-dreaming pioneers adopted by this Great Land. You’ve begun a journey that we are sure you will never forget. Bon voyage! The staff of Discovery
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show your love for her today... tomorrow... forever...
AvA i l A bl e At J u l i e ’ s f i n e J e w e l ry 1 2 0 F ron t S t r e e t K e tc h i K a n , a l a S K a sterlinG silver ivy lOve COlleCtiOn
BANGLE BRACELETS SET OF THREE $990 • THREE RING NECKLACE $420 • RINGS SET OF THREE $360
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Finally, you’re here.
Now is the time to relax and let us take care of everything else. Get out
on deck and experience the fresh sea air, explore your ship and all its amenities, or grab a bite to eat. Every aspect of this vacation was designed for you to relax, refresh and rejuvenate. On the following pages, you can learn a bit more about what you can expect in the coming days in this book of discovery. We call it that for a reason — not only because of the wonderful ports you’ll be visiting, but also because of all the distinct pleasures you will find, one by one, on your Princess ® ship. What will be your favorite venue, activity, restaurant? Only the moments ahead will tell…
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Welcome
aboard
Let your
journey begin
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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At your
service Princess Cruises — The Consummate Host
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®
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The Consummate Host
service
On your Princess ship, gracious and attentive crew members are there to serve you and make your entire vacation memorable.
You first noticed it on the lapel of the officer who welcomed you aboard as you crossed the gangway: a blue and gold pin that read "CruisE." Then you saw it again worn by the concierge, and your stateroom steward, and ... What are these pins, and what does CruisE stand for? CRUISE began as a program to help keep the passenger experience top-of-mind for all Princess staff and crew, and that is still one of its important goals. But CRUISE is also how we recognize and reward employees for great performance. CRUISE is how we educate our employees for career and personal growth. CRUISE is how we support our employees' health and welfare so they can perform their jobs with excellence every day. CRUISE is the vehicle through which Princess delivers our core values — we serve, we respect our team, we innovate,
we are consistent, we are accountable, and we do it right — to our staff, and motivates them to live out those values and be The Consummate Host. What does CRUISE mean to you? It means you can expect consistently warm, welcoming service — from courteous greetings in the dining room at dinner to friendly smiles by the stewards — on every ship in our fleet. It means everyone on board is working together to make your vacation a relaxed, rejuvenating retreat at sea. It means all of us know your vacation memories are infinitely precious — and we want you to remember not only our spectacular ships sailing to fantastic destinations, but also how valued you felt while you were on board.
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Your ship is a floating destination of culinary delights, with options to match every taste and mood.
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Dining
freshly prepared
Delicious
ilemma
One of the most enticing things about your spectacular Princess ship is the wide variety of tempting onboard options to delight your palate. From specialty restaurants and gracious dining rooms, a warm, freshly cooked meal is never far away. You can have a burger grilled-to-order out on deck, or grab a slice of handmade pizza to eat by the pool. Maybe all you need is some soft-serve ice cream to fend off the heat. Or keep your eyes open for cookies & milk on deck in the afternoon. From breakfast to dinner to late-night snacks, Princess raises the bar on dining at sea.
A chef in one of the galleys takes a tray of Princess breads from the oven. Each day, an assortment of baked goods are prepared for your enjoyment.
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Dining
freshly prepared
We understand
how important
dining is to the vacation experience, which is why we put such an emphasis on the quality and range of our dining options. Our own Master Chef, Alfredo Marzi, designed the menus for our Delectable entrees served in the Princess restaurants range from Italian specialties to aged steak to the freshest fish available.
Traditional and Anytime Dining sM
Ask about the Chef’s Table, yet another
rooms to truly make sure the food is
unique offering — you’ll be invited into
the star. From our signature pastas
the galley for champagne and hors
to our lighter selections, you’ll savor
d’oeuvres, and you'll later dine on
freshly prepared cuisine, utilizing
a special menu conceived by the
ingredients with regional influences.
Executive Chef himself. Or if you
For variety,
happen to have a balcony stateroom, you can choose
you can stay in one evening and
a specialty restaurant like sabatini’s,
we’ll bring the experience to you —
with traditional italian fare, the elegant
with ultimate Balcony Dining.
sM
Crown Grill
sM
or sterling steakhouse
sM
for an aged prime steak or grilled
We invite you to indulge in
seafood, or the Bayou Café & steakhouse
all this and more during your cruise.
for a more southern ambience.
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Restaurants & dining venues on board Restaurants
Style
Traditional & Anytime
Main Dining Rooms
Specialty Dining
Breakfast Hours
Lunch Hours
Lunch is available on turnaround days, sea 7:30 AM - 9:30 AM days and in select ports. (see Princess Patter)
Traditional Dining Hours
Anytime Dining
Charges
5:15 PM, 6 PM and 8:15 PM
5:30 PM - 10 PM
None
Style
Breakfast Hours
Lunch Hours
Dinner Hours
Charges
Specialty
7:30 AM - 10 AM for Suites only
N/A
6:30 PM - 11 PM
Cover charge
Specialty
N/A
N/A
6:30 PM - 11 PM
Cover charge
Specialty
N/A
N/A
6:30 PM - 11 PM
Cover charge
Bayou Café & Steakhouse
Specialty
N/A
N/A
6:30 PM - 11 PM
Cover charge
Ultimate Balcony Dining
Specialty
7 AM - 11 AM
N/A
5:30 PM - 10 PM
Nominal charge
Specialty
N/A
N/A
Onboard reservations accepted only
(subject to change)
Style
Breakfast Hours
Lunch Hours
Dinner Hours
Charges
Casual
N/A
11 AM - 5:30 PM
5:30 PM - Midnight
None
Casual
N/A
11 AM - 2:30 PM
7 PM onward
None
Casual
N/A
11 AM - 6 PM
(Except on Ocean and Pacific Princess)
6:00 PM - onward
None
Casual
6 AM - 10 AM
11:30 AM - 3:30 PM
5:30 PM - Midnight
None
Casual
6 AM - 11:00 AM
11:00 AM - 5:30 PM
(closed for dinner on Caribbean, Crown, Emerald & Ruby Princess)
None
Casual
6 AM - 11 AM
11 AM - 6 PM
6 PM onward
None
Room service
N/A
24 hours
24 hours
24 hours
None
Afternoon tea
Casual
N/A
3:30 PM - 4:30 PM
N/A
None
Casual
7 AM onward
N/A
N/A
Nominal charge
Casual
N/A
11 AM - 5:30 PM
5:30 PM onward
None
Casual
24 hours
24 hours
24 hours
Nominal charge
Casual
N/A
11:00 AM onward (4:30 PM port days)
5 PM - 11 PM
Nominal charge
Casual
N/A
11 AM - 5:30 PM
5:30 PM onward
None
Sabatini’s
SM
Caribbean, Coral, Crown, Diamond, Emerald, Golden, Grand, Island, Pacific, Ruby, Sapphire, Star, Ocean Princess
Crown Grill
Caribbean, Crown, Emerald, Golden, Ruby, Star, Grand Princess
Sterling Steakhouse
SM
Dawn, Diamond, Pacific, Sea, Sun, Ocean, Sapphire Princess Coral, Island Princess All Princess ships*
Chef’s Table
Caribbean, Coral, Crown, Diamond, Emerald, Golden, Grand, Island, Pacific, Ruby, Sapphire, Sea,** Star, Ocean Princess
Casual Dining
$95 per person
Pizzeria (poolside)
Caribbean, Coral, Crown, Diamond, Emerald, Golden, Grand, Island, Ruby, Sapphire, Star Princess
Pizzeria/trattoria
Dawn, Pacific, Sea, Sun, Ocean Princess
Burger & hot dog grill
All Princess ships
Café Caribe
Caribbean, Crown, Emerald, Ruby Princess
(sea days only)
Horizon Court/Lido
Caribbean, Coral, Crown, Dawn, Diamond, Emerald, Golden, Grand, Island, Ruby, Sapphire, Sea, Star, Sun Princess
Panorama Buffet
Pacific, Ocean Princess All Princess ships All Princess ships
Pâtisserie
Coral, Dawn, Diamond, Island, Pacific, Sea, Sun, Ocean Princess
Ice cream bar
Caribbean, Coral, Crown, Dawn, Diamond, Emerald, Golden, Grand, Island, Ruby, Sapphire, Sea, Star, Sun Princess
International Café
Caribbean, Crown, Emerald, Golden, Grand, Ruby, Sapphire, Coral, Star Princess
Vines Wine Bar
Caribbean, Crown, Emerald, Golden, Grand ^ Ruby, Sapphire,^ Star Princess
Alfredo's Pizzeria
Grand Princess, Sapphire Princess
5:30 PM - Midnight
Note: Dining options, locations and venues vary by ship and actual meal times and charges are subject to change based on itinerary and season. While room service is complimentary, charges will apply to certain food and beverage items. Once on board and based on availability, you may switch to Anytime Dining from Traditional Dining with 24 hours notice to the Maître d’Hôtel. Anytime Dining is not available on Pacific, Sun, Dawn, Sea** or Ocean Princess. Corkage fee of $15 applies. The Chef’s Table program is limited to approximately 10-12 passengers per cruise and is offered at $95 per person. * Ultimate Balcony Dining available in select staterooms. ** Anytime Dining and Chef's Table do not apply to Sea Princess while operating in Australia. ^Wine bar only.
Attire Smart Casual Evenings: Skirts/dresses, slacks and sweaters for ladies. Pants and open-neck shirts for men. Formal Evenings: Evening gowns, cocktail dresses, or elegant pant suits for women. Tuxedo, dark suit or dinner jacket and slacks for men. Note: Dress code is subject to change with the ship’s itinerary. The above is a general guide.
Length of Cruise
# of Formal Evenings
# of Smart Casual Events
3-6 days
1
1-5
7-13 days
2
5-11
14-20 days
3
11-17
21-28 days
4
17-24
29+ days
5
24+ PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Activities
daytime
Unlimited opportunities to expand your horizons through culinary courses, wine tasting, classes in art history, navigation, art & crafts and more.
Do it all
or nothing at all Free time —
something each of us has
precious little of these days. Of course, that’s why you take a vacation. And on your Princess ship, you’ll find you have plenty of time to enjoy the fabulous options offered on board.
What’s your type?
Are you a fitness
fanatic? Do you like arts & crafts? Do you wish you simply had more hours in the day after work and family commitments to just sit down and read a book? On a Princess voyage, we offer opportunities for every interest to be engaged, which is one of the reasons
Each day, opportunities unfold, from more active options to the relaxed and cultural.
people often unexpectedly find that it is their time on the ship they remember most fondly. so now that you’re here, we encourage you to follow your mood to whatever activities and entertainment most interest you. You’ll find a full schedule of what’s offered each day in your Princess Patter. And the ship’s pools, library, fitness centers and other venues are open and available whenever you feel like dropping in.
*Available on select voyages.
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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renew yourself
Body & Soul
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Health & Wellness
rejuvenate
rejuvenate with luxurious treatments in the Lotus spa or on deck in ®
The sanctuary.
sitting out on deck, you’ll be lulled into a
The sanctuary – truly special.
blissful state by the sound of waves, the fresh sea air,
rejuvenate in the open air at the outdoor oasis
and the knowledge that while you are out here with
reserved exclusively for adults, The sanctuary,
Princess, you don’t have a single care in the world.
available on select ships.*
And if you think that’s a good feeling, just imagine how you’ll feel after a massage or spa treatment!
Pampering
never felt as good as it does on
a Princess ship. The onboard Lotus spa ® rivals most you’ll find on land — offering a sensational selection of services and treatments, from facials, scrubs and massages to hot stone therapy, body therapy and body wraps, as well as a full-service salon should you choose to beautify after you unwind. The Lotus spa Fitness Center offers fitness programs designed to help you maximize your wellness with
in this popular haven you can get a massage under a cabana, to the sound of the sea lapping far beneath you. Or you can find yourself an empty chaise lounge in which to enjoy healthy smoothies, energy drinks, and flavored waters. A spa menu exclusive to The sanctuary highlights a variety of light snacks, such as lettuce-wrapped spring rolls, fruit skewers, and spicy tuna pâté with baked pita wedges, all served by special serenity stewards. MP3 players are also available with themed playlists, so you can escape completely to the soothing sounds of music.
indoor Cycling, Personal Training and classes such as Pilates, Yoga, Body sculpt Boot Camp and TrX suspension Training. The Lotus spa Fitness Center also features world-class exercise equipment so you can tone on your own.
The Sanctuary is a relaxing oasis on deck that’s perfect for an al fresco massage or a fruit smoothie and some relaxing music.
*The sanctuary is available on most ships. Covered cabanas not available in The sanctuary on all ships.
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Bring home the
Perfect Gift You’ll return home from your Princess ® vacation with experiences to last a lifetime. But why not remind yourself of the carefree time you had onboard as often as possible, with something special from our array of on board boutiques? Browse through the fine jewelry, fashion apparel and accessories on board — you’ll discover a stellar selection of names like swarovski, Lancôme, Estée Lauder and TAG Heuer among the luxurious offerings, as well as a wide variety of signature Princess merchandise. All shops are tax- and duty-free, with savings up to 60% off u.s. retail. Plus, watch for additional savings with special promotions throughout your voyage. And in each of our boutiques, you’ll be greeted by gracious, knowledgeable staff who can help you choose the perfect gift to take home.
f o s s i l • c i t i z e n • tag h e u e r • t i s s ot • M i c h a e l Ko r s • lo n g i n e s • P h i l i P st e i n • r ay b a n • oa K l e y • c o lu M b i a g e M s • ta r a P e a r l s • D i a M o n D s o f r u s s i a • c r i s lu • s wa r o v s K i
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b a i l e y ’ s • c r o w n r oya l • j o s e c u e r v o • b o M b ay • s a P P h i r e • b e e f e at e r • c r u z a n r u M • sto l i • g l e n f i D D i c h • j ac K Da n i e l s • K a h lu a • s a M b u c a • r o M a n o s h e r i Da n • ta n q u e r ay
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c a lv i n
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c a lv i n K l e i n • g i o r g i o a r M a n i • i s s e y M i ya K e • e f f y • Dav i D o f f c a r t i e r • M a r a h l ag o • b u r b e r r y • s o P h i a f i o r i
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Enrichment
experiences
the Princess Photo & video team captures
Your Memories at Sea A picture is worth
a thousand words — especially of your cruise with Princess. And we offer many ways for you to relive your vacation with both photos and video including:
• Formal & casual portraits with multiple backgrounds • Candid photos from gangways and ports to onboard events • Wall portraits turning your memories into works of art • souvenir and decorative frames, albums & scrapbooks
• reflections DvD featuring video highlights from your cruise • Digital cameras, binoculars & accessories • Prints from your digital camera
PlatinumStudio by Joe Craig
Your life. Our art. Your legacy. Created by internationally recognized photographer Joe Craig, the Platinum studio experience puts the focus on your inner spirit. using creative lighting techniques, our specially trained Platinum Artist creates a unique style of art with sessions taking place in a private studio, with no session fee and no obligation to purchase.
Book your appointment today!
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Enrichment Programs Set sail with Princess, and you’re in for an adventure that’s more than just sightseeing. You will discover an array of engaging onboard offerings to expand your cultural horizons. Among the wonderful offerings of our enrichment programs are an array of classes, from singing to culinary skills and art history. You can brush up on your cooking knowledge, expand your navigational awareness, or join the Zumba ® Fitness dance party. Get creative and have fun learning new craft activities and much more. Enrichment programs also present intriguing lectures on select cruises, including those focusing on the history, culture and geography of the region you are visiting.
An adventure in the
Cultural
Engaging enrichment opportunities and
exciting art auctions bring refinement to your cruise.
Art auctions at sea*
are fun, fast-paced and offer a wonderful opportunity to bring home a great work of art at savings of up to 50% from estimated retail price. You’ll find some of the art world’s greatest stars — names like Picasso, Chagall, Rockwell and Miro — all represented, as well as a variety of works by contemporary art’s popular figures. There’s no registration necessary, and complimentary champagne and a festive atmosphere make these auctions an exciting highlight of your voyage. Artwork is charged to your shipboard account, then insured, packaged and shipped to your home or office from a U.S. fulfillment center. * Not available on Ocean Princess or Pacific Princess. PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Movies
under the stars
Princess pioneered the concept — passengers enjoying a feature film ®
poolside on a giant screen: Movies under the stars.
®
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The sky’s the limit Order a drink
, grab a bag of complimentary popcorn, get yourself a lounge chair by the pool — or even better, a coveted spot in the hot tub — for the greatest show on the sea. Movies under the stars ® is a real crowd-pleaser, with up to five movies shown poolside during the day, and two feature films at night. What a great way to take advantage of warm nights in the region! A high-tech 300-squarefoot LED screen and 69,000-watt stereo system assure clarity and quality of sound from wherever on the deck you might be sitting.
Even kids get in
on the fun. some of the most popular offerings on the Movies under the stars big screen are our special Playstation® or Nintendo ® Wii TM tournaments. And teens will enjoy late-night screenings just for them, while younger cruisers can take in a colorful matinee with newfound friends!
To keep the entertainment fresh, there are other showings besides movies. Major sporting events such as the super Bowl,® NBA Finals, World series, NCAA Basketball ® tournament and NCAA Bowl Championship series™ are shown on the big screen, weather permitting.* And you’ll often find yourself grooving to a concert video of one of the world’s popular performers.
Viewed from high above, the Movies Under the Stars screen entertains passengers poolside.
Note: Movies under the stars is featured on most Princess ships.
*satellite coverage permitting.
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Youth
and teen
Kid-sized fun that’s simply
“SeaSational” Moms and dads,
Our youngest guests
be forewarned — aside from mealtimes, you may not see your kids much on this cruise. That’s because Princess ® has one of the best programs for children and teens from 3–17 of any cruise line. On days at sea and in port, the fun begins in the morning and continues throughout the day and into the evening in our supervised Youth Centers & Teen Lounges.
ages 3–7 will love our Princess Pelicans program. They can participate in a variety of programs, including art projects, sports and games, educational activities, and even pizza and ice cream parties. Plus, kids can take part in fun events such as talent shows, dance parties, pajama parties and special get-together dinners. They’ll even paint their own T-shirts and create other custom souvenirs of their cruise.
’Tweens will revel in shockwaves — a special venue with activities just for them. They can enjoy parties, join sports tournaments and scavenger hunts, watch movies, learn to cook with our Jr.CHEF@sea program, or participate in talent shows, enjoy educational programs sponsored by the renowned California science Center, and other fun options. Whatever their age, kids on a cruise with Princess will find fun-filled activities suited just for them.
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Parties • Food • dJ • dance Parties PLaYstation® • nintendo® WIITM sPorts coMPetitions • and More
reMix What’s a teen to do
on a Princess ship? Plenty — because
our remix teen program is the hottest thing on the ocean. Come make new friends and hang in your own dedicated Teen Lounge with music, games, dance parties, yoga and Playstation.® There are hip hop classes, karaoke, mocktail parties, late night poolside movies, talent shows, and “teen makeovers.”
if you haven’t checked it out,
come to remix.
it’s the place to be at sea!
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Whether for a few hours in the lounge or an evening of dancing, don’t miss this chance to cut loose and be enchanted by the night.
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Activities
nighttime
the
Night
belongs to you
Step out for an evening of adventure and excitement on a ship of dreams
When was the last time you could
go out without a single worry — and have so much to choose from? It’s a rare luxury to be able to walk out of your stateroom any evening, and within a short stroll be able to take in a musical, roll the dice in a lively casino, settle into a piano bar for some cocktails and live music, or dance the night away in a state-of-the-art nightclub. From comedy and magic acts to movies by the pool to champagne in an intimate lounge, there’s always more to do than you could fit in an evening. Fortunately, you’ve got many nights ahead to enjoy all the evenings Princess holds in store for you.
Before retiring, you may want to drop by the Atrium for the fabulous Champagne Waterfall, or get out on deck for a stroll beneath the stars in the balmy tropical air.
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Casino
gaming
The onboard casinos offer a chance to play, watch the wheel spin, press the slot buttons and bring home the winnings.
Are you feeling lucky? An evening of gaming and good fortune is beckoning you to the casino, where you can try your luck at any of your favorite games of chance. Our fabulous contemporary casinos blend a bit of the excitement of Vegas with an elegant ambience to create a gaming experience unique to Princess. In these lively rooms, you can join other passengers for blackjack, roulette, and of course an array of slot machines. There may even be a poker tournament getting under way with a seat just for you. Whether you’re an avid gamer or just an occasional enthusiast, you’ll love the
Princess is your
Lady
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Princess casinos. Those on our grand ships are some of the largest at sea!
Luck
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Stunning sets, elaborate costumes and memorable music make our original Princess productions a highlight of your voyage.
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Shows
entertainment
Jazz
Music, dance & all that
Ladies and gentlemen,
please take your
seats. The lights are dimming, the curtain’s opening, and the show is about to begin.
Our original musicals
are unforgettable —
combining lavish stage sets and compelling scores with the song and dance of a troupe of professional singers and dancers. On every cruise with Princess, you’ll have the opportunity to attend several different musical productions, each custom created just for our passengers. Check your Princess Patter each day to find out about that evening’s offering. And we’ll see you at the show!
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Princess
Captain’s Circle
®
Welcome to
The Circle
Whether it’s your first cruise with Princess, or you’ve sailed with us many times before, you’re sure to enjoy the benefits and rewards of the best loyalty program at sea.
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Gold Members After your 1st completed cruise • special launch savings • reduced Deposit • Preferential pricing offers • circle centersM Online - standBy Program - referral rewards - Circle savings AccountsM • Princess cruises captain’s circle Magazine • Princess cruises captain's circle enewsletter • free cruise Photo contest • access to a circle host on board • Members-only on board events • Princess Passport • gold Member Pin
Medallion Members From your 4th-5th cruise, or 31-50 cruise days
By voyage’s end, it’s likely
To the right you’ll find
you will have made a new circle of friends at dinner, or perhaps in the fitness center, boutiques, bars and lounges of your Princess ship. Like you, they’re all members of a very special group — those who’ve sailed with Princess, and those we hope will sail again.
a chart listing the benefits of various levels of membership. To learn more about the program, we encourage you to visit with the Circle Host on board, who can answer any questions you may have.
Welcome
to the best loyalty program at sea. The Princess Cruises Captain’s Circle ® was created to thank those passengers who cruise with us frequently — and to offer an incentive to our new passengers who may be joining us for the very first time. A range of rewards awaits you, from exclusive onboard parties and events to access to a Circle Host on board every cruise who can answer any questions you might have about benefits. At higher levels, you’ll receive other perks like Preferred Check-in, complimentary wine tasting, complimentary internet credit, priority disembarkation and more!
You’ll receive a special Member Number as a Circle Member. Be sure to have it handy whenever booking, so you can be certain to take advantage of all your benefits.
But wait, there’s more... Complete 20 cruises and you’ll earn Loyalty Commends onboard credits from $25 to $100. Other benefits include a private luncheon for the top 20 Most Traveled Passengers or a commemorative gift and bottle of champagne for the top 3 Most Traveled Passengers on each cruise.
NOTE: Captain's Circle Benefits are subject to the terms and conditions of the Captain's Circle Program. Please visit princess.com/loyalty or your Captain's Circle Host on board, to review the full terms of the program and to obtain further details on Member benefits.
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• exclusive shoreside access to the Captain's Circle Help Desk phone line • upgrade to Princess Platinum vacation Protection - Double benefits for Accident & sickness Medical Expense and Baggage/Personal effects coverage - increases special Cancellation Credit Feature to 100% • 10% discount off the purchase of our reflections DvD on board • Medallion Member Pin
Platinum Members From your 6th-15th cruise, or 51-150 cruise days • credit toward internet café packages Voyage
Minutes
7 days or less
150
8-20 days
250
21+ days
500
• Preferred check-in at embarkation • Platinum Disembarkation lounge • complimentary cruise atlas • Platinum Member Pin
Elite Members From your 16th cruise on, or 151+ cruise days • complimentary shoe polishing, laundry and professional cleaning services • Priority ship-to-shore tender embarkation • Priority disembarkation • 10% boutique discount • complimentary grapevine wine tasting • complimentary mini-bar setup • Deluxe canapés on formal nights (upon request) • upgraded stateroom amenities • traditional afternoon tea in stateroom (upon request) • elite Member Pin PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Plan
a future journey
Book your next cruise
on board
Let a Future Cruise sales Consultant help you plan a future getaway, and you’ll get a reduced deposit and up to $300 in shipboard credits, even if you don’t yet know where you want to sail.
Book a cruise or place a deposit while you’re on board and receive a special offer — up to $300 shipboard credit per stateroom. With just a reduced $100 refundable deposit per person, you’ll get a shipboard credit good on your next cruise with Princess. if you’re unsure of your future travel plans, simply make a deposit and take up to 2 years to decide. This exclusive offer is available only to our onboard passengers. see your Future Cruise Consultant for details.
Shipboard Credit*
Cruise Length
Stateroom Type
3-6 days
interior/Oceanview Balcony/Mini/suites
$15 $25
7-10 days
interior/Oceanview Balcony/Mini/suites
$25 $50
11-16 days
interior/Oceanview Balcony/Mini/suites
$75 $100
17+ days
interior/Oceanview Balcony/Mini/suites
$125 $150
(U.S./CAN)
Check the Princess Patter daily for office hours and location.
*Deposit is per person, for 1st and 2nd passenger only.
Note: Future Cruise Deposits are also available to international passengers. see Future Cruise Consultant for details.
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Arriving June 2013
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Discover
Style
our favorite Things for her mark henry Witness the instant and dramatic color change from mossy green to raspberry. In this pendant, the rare and beautiful alexandrite stone is enhanced by gold and diamonds.
GIfT ColleCTIon Beautiful diamond jewelry comprised of several perfectly matched, white diamonds set together side by side giving the wearer a huge diamond look, for tremendous value.
flaWless a stunning swarovski blue paraiba topaz is the centerpiece for these exquisite earrings, while white swarovski topaz dances around for added sparkle. set in 18k gold over sterling silver.
day 2 nIGhT sophisticated studs by day, dangling attention-getters by night. Take these convertible earrings wherever you go!
vena d’amore Give her a sparkling diamond surrounded by more of the same brilliance.
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Discover
Style
our favorite Things for him
BUlova aCCUTron from the Gemini Collection, this swissmade automatic watch is in stainless steel with rose-gold finish, exhibition caseback and a black leather strap.
korITe ammolITe This extraordinary sterling silver pendant is a modern design, set with top grade ammolite, making it a true collector’s item.
WenGer not all swiss watches are created equal. The GsT Chrono features a 12hour chronograph, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and unidirectional rotating bezel and is water-resistant to 100m/300ft.
hearTs on fIre made of titanium and with a single diamond, this ring features durable, strong design that speaks to a masculine appreciation for raw materials.
PrInCess CrUIses dIsCovery
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Discover
Style
The Top
5 Pieces Diamond
you can't live without!
We all own at least one wardrobe basic we'll never give up. Blue jeans, a white button-down, black pumps and the little black dress defy trends season after season. These are the items that offer value and style year after year. It’s easy to build a diamond jewelry wardrobe that offers the same value and wearability. start with these five jewelry essentials, which you’ll wear every day and into the night.
1 2 3 4 5
solitaire earrings necklace diamond Bracelet diamond ring Watch
Expert Advice
illustration by Dayana ramirez
men, read this carefully! your birthday and anniversary gift-giving problems are solved.
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Discover
Style
1. solitaire earrings
diamond studs are the item every woman must own. They are also the best value because you will never take them off. solitaire studs will remain prized possessions in your family for generations to come. This can be a gift for yourself or the perfect present (hint, hint!) from your significant other. Pictured: WonderStud earrings
2. necklace 3. diamond Bracelet
look back at style icons from any era and a diamond bracelet is always a staple of their jewelry wardrobe. Choose from classic tennis bracelets or fabulous bangles. Today’s fashion icons, such as Jennifer lopez and sarah Jessica Parker, stack multiple diamond pieces or wear a diamond bracelet with their watch to add a touch of sparkle. Pictured: Crown Brilliant bracelet by Crown Of Light
5. Watch
your watch is the piece of jewelry you wear every day, so it makes sense to invest in a high-quality timepiece. Watches also define status and personal style. The watch you wear on your wrist says as much about you as the car you drive or the home you live in. Pictured: Crazy Carats by Fendi
a diamond solitaire necklace is the finishing touch to any outfit. It’s your easy and elegant solution every day. see your Princess shopping host onboard to learn how necklaces can add style to your wardrobe. Pictured: Fulfillment pendant by Hearts On Fire
4. diamond ring
Whether she’s wearing a wedding ring, engagement ring or right-hand ring, every woman deserves a diamond on her finger! Choose something with a lot of sparkle to celebrate your energy and love of life. or look for a splash of color to reflect your sense of fun and adventure. Whatever you choose, the ring should be all about you. Pictured: “Figure 8” ring by Forevermark
PrInCess CrUIses dIsCovery
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Discover
Style
fall In love show her how much you care with a beautiful diamond.
From top: Gift Collection bangle; Vena d’Amore rings; Day 2 Night earrings; WonderStud earrings.
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Th
inal & Guara nt rig ee eO d
The magic starts with the
Regal Omega
Th
ina rig eO
l & Guar an te ed
Available Exclusively at Regal Jewelers Ketchikan • Juneau • Skagway
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>>
>>
Kabana
Forevermark
FIve-stone anniversary band
Elements Collection pendant
>>
objects
Crown of Light
Crown of Creation pendant
of desire
Precision timepieces and shimmering jewelry are the finishing touches for that perfect look sought by those in the know. Here, from the top names in design, are the looks you’ll love.
>>
Raymond Weil Maestro watch
>>
Alex and Ani
>>
Stackable bangle set
1968 Collection watch
>>
Bomberg
Charriol
White gold nautical cable bangle
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JUNEAU Blue Di a monD, Gl i t t ers
KETCHIK AN Blue DiamonD
S K A G WAY r oya l J e w e l e r s
reina collection
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>>
Korite
Solara pendant
>>
Orocal
objects
Gold quartz ladies ring
>>
>>
of desire
Gift Collection
Philip Stein
Tiara diamond ring
>>
Prestige Collection watch
Safi Kilima
>>
Tanzanite drop earrings
68
Lauren G. Adams
>>
WeWood
Date Collection beige watch
Gold plated enamel hoop earrings
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Exclusively at: Royal Jewelers - Juneau and Skagway
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brand finder
where to find our brands
JUNEAU
KETCHIKAN
Blue DiamonD
Blue DiamonD
MarahLago Orocal Gold Quartz Orocal Star of Alaska Philip Stein Raymond Weil WeWood
Charriol MarahLago Philip Stein Raymond Weil WeWood
DiamonDs international
Crown of Light Day 2 Night Forevermark Gift Collection Kabana Korite
Crown of Light Day 2 Night Forevermark Gift Collection Kabana Korite MarahLago
Di Watch & Design
Di Watch & Design
Bomberg Cartier Crown of Light Day 2 Night Ernst Benz Forevermark Gift Collection Hublot Kabana Korite Philip Stein Piaget Safi Kilima Zenith
Bomberg Cartier Crown of Light Day 2 Night Ernst Benz Forevermark Gift Collection Hublot Kabana Korite Philip Stein Piaget Safi Kilima Zenith
Julie’s Fine JeWelry
regal JeWelers
Charles Krypell Korite Orocal Gold Quartz Orocal Star Of Alaska
Makur Designs Mark Henry Orocal Gold Quartz Orocal Star of Alaska Regal Omega
Crown of Light Day 2 Night Forevermark Gift Collection Kabana Korite
Di Watch & Design Bomberg Cartier Crown of Light Day 2 Night Ernst Benz Forevermark Gift Collection Hublot Kabana Korite Philip Stein Piaget Safi Kilima Zenith
regal JeWelers Makur Designs Mark Henry Orocal Star of Alaska Regal Omega
royal JeWelers Charriol Lauren G Adams MarahLago Orocal Star of Alaska WeWood
tanzanite international Crown of Light Day 2 Night Forevermark Gift Collection Kabana Korite Safi Kilima
DiamonDs international
regal JeWelers Makur Designs Mark Henry Regal Omega
tanzanite international Crown of Light Day 2 Night Forevermark Gift Collection Kabana Korite Safi Kilima
Mark Henry alexandrite ring
SKAGWAY DiamonDs international
royal JeWelers Charriol Lauren G Adams MarahLago Orocal Star of Alaska WeWood
tanzanite international Crown of Light Day 2 Night Forevermark Gift Collection Kabana Korite Safi Kilima
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Attraction By Lynn Seldon
Vast and varied, Alaska’s national parks promise adventure at every turn.
(glacial flow from mount mcKinley) terry w. ryder/shutterstocK.com
Natural
Imagine spotting the peak of Mount McKinley on a crystal-clear day or being within mere feet of a grizzly bear (from the safety of a tour bus). It could easily be you, on a visit to one of Alaska’s spectacular national parks. Majestic mountain peaks, glistening glacial expanses, magnificent wildlife roaming free — the seemingly endless natural wonders of this great state come alive. “The parks represent the sweep of American history and natural abundance, and are as varied as they are vast,” says John Quinley, spokesman for the Alaska Region of the National Park Service, which oversees 15 national parks covering 51 million acres, or 13 percent of the state’s total 375 million acres. They offer plenty of action, from ranger-led hikes and educational programs to camping, backpacking and boating adventures. Like spotting the “big five” of Alaska wildlife (caribou, Dall sheep, moose, grizzly bear and wolves), experiencing one of Alaska’s glorious national parks is a highlight of any visit. Here are five of the best:
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Natural
Attraction
by Jonathan Siskin
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Natural
Attraction
WoNder oN the Water Perhaps no other location in Alaska is better known than Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve, a water-focused marvel. Glacier Bay is the result of a rapidly receding glacier. A 1794 photoS by: (glAcier bAy) bArteverett/ShutterStock.com; (exit glAcier) Dubhe/wikipeDiA; (wolveS) Jklingebiel/ShutterStock.com.
survey crew described the bay as a 5-mile indent. By the time the great naturalist John Muir measured it in 1879, the bay had grown to 30 miles — and it’s about 65 miles today. Glacier Bay was declared a national monument in 1925 and was designated a national park in 1980. About one-fifth of the park is actually water, and most visits involve the water and marine life (whether from a large cruise ship, a small boat or a kayak). The park features pristine coastal beaches, snow-capped mountain ranges and numerous glaciers, including Margerie Glacier, a towering example that extends 21 miles and stands 250 feet above the waterline. Wildlife includes endangered humpback whales, threatened Steller sea lions, harbor seals and sea otters.
Nature’s bouNty An Alaska cornucopia can be explored at Kenai Fjords National Park, which is comprised of three remarkably varied sections:
FROM TOP: Glacier Bay National Park; Misty Fjords; Timber wolves.
the coastal fjords, where tidewater glaciers meet the sea; the immense Harding Icefield; and an emerging rainforest. The easiest section to visit is Exit Glacier, with a half-milewide river of ice and Kenai Fjords Nature Center. The huge Harding Icefield measures more than 700 square miles and is the largest of four remaining U.S. icefields completely within U.S. borders.
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natural
attraction
Peak exPerience In a state of national-park superlatives, Denali National Park
5 Favorite parks
& Preserve tops them all. Denali is literally the high point of a
1. Glacier Bay national Park & Preserve
to grizzly bear, wolves, Dall sheep and moose.
2. Denali national Park & Preserve • interior alaska, near healy and cantwell (240 miles north of anchorage and 125 miles south of Fairbanks) • more than 6 million acres
3. kenai Fjords national Park • south-central alaska, near seward • 669,983 acres
McKinley, North America’s highest summit at 20,320 feet. Activities in this expansive park are almost as endless as the views. Bus tours, bike rides or long walks down the 90-mile Denali Park Road are quite popular. Other options include hiking, camping, rafting, fishing and flightseeing. World-class wildlife watching is part of a visit to this subarctic ecosystem that is home
Size matterS When it comes to sheer size, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve reigns. At more than 13 million acres — larger than Rhode Island and Vermont combined — it’s the largest national park. It’s not visited nearly as frequently as many others, probably because of its rugged nature. The trails are unmarked, its travel services and facilities are limited, and visitor access into the sprawling park is via two gravel roads: the 42-mile Nabesna Road traversing the northern portion, and the 60-mile McCarthy Road running directly into the heart of Wrangell-St. Elias. Best bets include a drive along one of the two roads, a visit to the old mining town of Kennecott, flightseeing, hiking, biking and lots of wildlife-viewing.
4. wrangell-St. elias national Park & Preserve • eastern portion of interior alaska, along the canadian border • more than 13 million acres
5. Gates of the arctic national Park & Preserve • in the brooks range, the northernmost mountain range in the country • 8.5 million acres
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Great Getaway As one of the most remote national parks in the nation, Gates of the Arctic National Park & Preserve is accessible mainly by air taxi from Fairbanks. Hardy hikers often walk in from Dalton Highway, which is about five miles from the park. The park has no roads or facilities within it, but park officials say Gates of the Arctic is home to about 1,500 Native Alaskans who maintain a subsistence-level way of life while continuing long-held cultural traditions. Visitors to Gates of the Arctic are rewarded with pristine wilderness. Like the other national parks, it gives an awe-inspiring sense of the spirit of the Great Land.
photos by: (snow) yarygin/shutterstock.com; (binoculars) kellis/shutterstock.com
• southeast alaska, near gustavus • 3.3 million acres
visit, thanks to towering peaks including the challenging Mount
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Denali National Park
photo by Carol M. highsMith/library of Congress.
An Alaskan High
Denali. North America's highest point was The High One, or The Great One, to the Athabascan Native tribes who were Alaska's first inhabitants. It’s definitely a part of the Alaskan experience that shouldn’t be missed. But Denali is much more than the name given to the crown of the 600-mile Alaska Range. It’s also the name of the huge national park and preserve that is the quintessential Alaskan interior experience.
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Denali
National Park
This immense preserved and protected area started
Karstens, with whom, between 1906 and 1908, Sheldon
with about two million acres in 1917 as Mount McKinley
explored the region that would eventually become the
National Park, named for then-U.S. Representative
park. Sheldon got the park established after working
(and later President) William McKinley. In 1980, park
diligently for a decade, while Karstens went on to make
boundaries were enlarged by four million acres and
the first ascent of McKinley and become the park’s
the name was changed to Denali National Park and
first superintendent.
Preserve; the highest peak is still known officially as
As it did then, the Denali experience involves more
Mount McKinley. At its current six million acres, the park
than getting a glimpse of Mount McKinley. In fact, many
is actually larger than the entire state of Massachusetts.
visitors never even see Mount McKinley: It’s “out” from
The park and its surroundings came into being largely
the clouds only one in three days, on average. But with
due to the work of two men: Charles Sheldon, a
so much else to see and do, a Mount McKinley sighting
conservationist, naturalist and hunter; and guide Harry
is just one of the many jewels in the Denali crown.
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Denali
National Park
The lanDscape
From spring to fall, wildlife viewing in Denali is simply
It all starts with the incredibly beautiful and diverse scenery.
spectacular. Just listing them here doesn’t do the
Sitting below the peaks of the McKinley massif is a land
experience justice, but a trip can include grizzly bear
of rivers and landscape unmatched in North America.
(and cubs), moose, caribou and Dall sheep. In fact, these
Situated about 240 miles north of Anchorage and less than
four animals are known as the “Big Four” of Denali wildlife
half that distance south of Fairbanks, Denali National Park
viewing, and any visit that includes all of them is considered
spreads to the west of bustling George Parks Highway
a big-time success.
and into a wilderness rarely matched in the world.
Wolves, which usually travel in packs, are rarely seen. Park
Mount McKinley is an ever-present part of the landscape.
rangers concur that a wolf-spotting makes a park visit
Its height of 20,320 feet makes it one of the Seven Summits,
even more special.
the highest peaks on the world’s continents. The formation
Smaller animals often seen during a Denali visit include
of this majestic mountain and the rest of the Alaska Range
red squirrel, ground squirrel, porcupine, beaver, hoary
began tens of millions of years ago, thanks to a massive
marmot, weasel and snowshoe hare. More than 35 different
collision of two tectonic plates. Today, more than 75 percent
mammal species live in the park and preserve.
of Mount McKinley is covered in snowfall and glaciers year-
At around 160 species, the bird life is also incredibly varied;
round, and conditions are virtually always harsh.
bird-watchers travel thousands of miles to Denali in order to
Below McKinley and the other towering mountains, the
add to their bucket lists. The possibilities include ptarmigan,
plant life of the park has adapted over thousands of years
Lapland longspurs, owls, eagles and other raptors. Many
to the quite-cold winters and short summers. But there
birds travel phenomenal distances to spend the summer
are still more than 650 unique species of flowering plants
in Alaska, including wheaters from Africa and Arctic terns
and dozens of species of moss, lichen, algae and more
from Antarctica and southern South America.
along the valleys and slopes of Denali.
seeing iT all
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The wilDlife
Visitors can choose from many different ways to explore
Many visitors remember their wildlife viewing long after
the Denali area. From a simple hike in the shadow of Mount
seeing (or not seeing) Mount McKinley. Quite simply, the
McKinley to a helicopter tour of the area, from river rafting
sheer variety and uniqueness of Denali’s wildlife make
to naturalist-led activities, the possibilities seem as infinite
each trip into the park special.
as Denali’s landscape and wildlife.
Photos by: (deNali NatioNal Park) GalyNa aNdrushko/shutterstock.com; (hiker) my Good imaGes/shutterstock.com; (otter) Neelsky/shutterstock.com; (bears) lorraiNe loGaN/shutterstock.com; (foliaGe) lorraiNe loGaN/shutterstock.com.
TOP: Denali National Park. ABOVE, FROM LEFT: Hiker on a cliff; sea otter; grizzly bear with cubs; colorful moss and lichen found throughout the park.
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alaska
history
A Brief History of an
Ancient Land By Edward Readicker-Henderson
About 35,000 years ago — or maybe only 17,000
Lucrative trade deaLs
or so years ago; anthropologists are still arguing
But everything changed on August 21, 1732,
about it — some people in what is now
when the Russian ship Gavrill appeared.
Russia’s Chukotka Peninsula noticed that the
Natives paddling out to the vessel told the
land stretched away east, farther than the eye
sailors that on the horizon was alaskshak,
could see. Curious, they headed toward the
“the land that is not an island.” That batch of
rising sun, walking across what we now call
Russians never came ashore, but it wasn’t
the Bering Land Bridge.
long before more Russians did — thousands
They were the first Alaskans, and they found a
of them. The Russians liked tea, and the
landscape ludicrously rich: herds of caribou
people who had all the tea were the Chinese,
that stretched for miles, and streams so
who liked furs. And Alaska was chock-full of
choked with salmon that there hardly seemed
fur. Tea traded for fur, and everybody was
room for water. With the easy living came
happy. In 1741, Russians brought back 900
culture reflecting the physical beauty of
pelts from Alaska; by 1800, they were taking
the landscape: the geometric art of the
more than 10,000 a year. After the United
Southeast, the intricate grass baskets of the
States bought Alaska for 2 cents an acre in
Aleutians, the dance and music of the far
1867, a newspaper howled: “Russia has sold
north. That was life in Alaska for thousands of
us a sucked orange.”
photos by: (food reserve/eskimo in boat/ceremonial dance) lomen bros./library of congress; (dogsled team) s. sexton/library of congress; (map of bering land bridge) stasys eidiejus/shutterstock.com.
Alaska’s abundance has drawn dreamers and seekers for thousands of years
years. As close to paradise as paradise gets.
RIGHT: Red outline shows the Bering land bridge, which joined present-day Alaska and eastern Siberia at various times during the Pleistocene ice age.
FROM TOP: Natives pose in front of a food reserve; Eskimo in boat, called an umiak, made with skins; ceremonial dance; the first dogsled team to go from Nome to Seward, c. 1900.
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alaska
History
Almost overnight, the rush was on.
Gold fever In 1896, George Carmacks, “Skookum Jim” Mason and the now-legendary Yukon Charlie panned a little gold out of Rabbit Creek, a tributary of the Klondike. Almost overnight, the rush was on. More than 100,000 people headed north. Most of the dreamers reached the Yukon long after all the land had been claimed. So they fanned out to see what else they could discover. Bit by bit, the map of Alaska was filled in as people who came for gold stayed for the lifestyle of endless summer days and nights, where the aurora borealis draped a rippling curtain of blue and green light over the horizon.
49th and beyond Eager to join the Union, pro-statehood forces increased their efforts after a referendum in 1946. Alaska finally became the 49th state on January 3, 1959. The next boom came from the discovery of oil on the North Slope in 1968. Today about 4,000 wells pump more than a million barrels of oil per day through that engineering marvel, the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. Now it has all come full circle: People are moving to the state in bigger numbers than ever before. Among the many wonders of this thoroughly modern Alaska, Alaskans found: a landscape of astounding vistas, ABOVE: Illustration from an old book of adventure tales; Trans-Alaska oil pipeline.
impossibly rich in wildlife; a land of Native culture where ancient traditions still carry on. And that’s the true lesson of Alaska’s history. The best things haven’t changed.
STATE SYMBOLS bird: Willow ptarmigan land mammal: Moose Marine mammal: Bowhead whale fish: King salmon Insect: Skimmer dragonfly flower: Forget-me-not Motto: “North To The Future” Song: “Alaska’s Flag” tree: Sitka spruce Gem: Jade Sport: Mushing (dogsledding)
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FROM TOP: Female blacktailed skimmer dragonfly; Alaska’s state flower, the forget-me-not; Alaska’s state bird, the willow ptarmigan, which is completely white in winter but a rusty brown with white wings in summer.
photos by: (dragonfly) hintau aliaksei/shutterstock.com; (forget-me-not flowers) elenagaak/shutterstock.com. (pipeline) cecoffman/shutterstock.com; (klondike illustration) library of congress; (willow ptarmigan) ttphoto/shutterstock.com
they find their greatest discovery is just what the first
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Shopping made easy
Become a Savvy Traveler. For only $25, this value package includes exclusive special offers from both onboard and Alaska shops ashore. Whether you’re looking for luxury items or souvenirs for family and friends, the Savvy Traveler is your must-have for shopping in our ports of call.
See your Princess Shopping Host to purchase your very own Savvy Traveler.
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Call of
the Wild
Call of the
Wild By Ginger Dingus
help spot wildlife. Out on deck, fellow cruise guests
the crisp, clear air and watching a pod of whales
provide instant reports of sightings. Listen for excited
glide past a glacier. If that glacier happens to be
cries announcing, “Thar she blows.”
glistening by the light of the midnight sun, the stirring
The ports of Southeast Alaska offer many
scene will certainly be counted among the highlights
opportunities for wildlife sightings. Walking on
of your cruise.
Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau or boating through
Alaska is one of the few places where visitors have
Misty Fjords in Ketchikan or Tracy Arm Fjord in
the unique opportunity to discover three diverse
Skagway, visitors often are treated to sightings of
types of wildlife, each in its natural habitat and each
humpback and killer whales, sea lions, porpoises,
within easy reach. An abundance of marine life swims
harbor seals, bald eagles and Sitka black-tailed deer.
in the state’s coastal waters, protected inlets and
Leaping porpoises enjoy riding the ship’s bow
rivers. Close to shore, land animals roam over steep
wake. At first glance, the black-and-white variety
alpine slopes and crunch through vast stretches
could be mistaken for a miniature version of the
of open tundra. Over 350 species of native and
orca (once known as the killer whale).
migratory birds range freely between land and sea.
And don’t forget Alaska’s most renowned fish, the salmon, famous for its mighty upstream struggle to
WaterWorld
spawn. Salmon are an important economic mainstay
Whales — humpback, gray, orca — rank as the
in Alaska, especially for Native communities, who
largest marine creatures you’re likely to see from
have often held ceremonies commemorating the
your stateroom balcony. When cruising the Inside
first catch of the season. Besides glimpsing the fish
Passage, the onboard naturalist may alert you to a
in its natural habitat in the wild, visitors can learn
pod of whales swimming close to the ship. A keen-
about them at hatcheries that include educational
eyed park ranger comes aboard in some ports to
displays and exhibits.
(Mendenhall glacier) wildnerdpix/shutterstock.coM.
Imagine standing on your ship’s deck, breathing in
PhOTOS By: (orca whales) eugene MoerMan/shutterstock.coM; (brown bear) zixian /shutterstock.coM;
Up north, wildlife encounters take place almost around the clock. Summertime dusk lasts until just before dawn. Wherever Alaska’s remarkable creatures appear, the magnificent landscape creates a stunning backdrop for the occasion.
FROM LEFT: Orcas cruise on the coastline; a bear catches a salmon in a waterfall; Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau.
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Call of
the Wild
Alaska has the nation's highest number of bald eagles: about 30,000.
LandLubbers Coastal brown bears (grizzlies) and smaller black bears may be found ambling along the beach in search of such delicacies as salmon or berries. Solitary by nature, bears hunt alone except for mothers with cubs. During annual salmon runs, however, they cluster around the choicest fishing holes. Grizzlies congregate on Admiralty Island, located near Juneau, and in Katmai National Park, southwest of Anchorage. Moose browse for food in low-lying wetlands, even those located beside busy roads and towns. Anchorage residents often wake to find that the blooms in their flower beds have been devoured by hungry nighttime visitors. At twilight, be alert for moose feeding on reeds in shallow ponds. When captured on camera, the silhouette of a male’s huge antlers set against a pale pink sky makes a memorable souvenir. dwellers. Hard-working beavers build ingenious stick lodges on countless waterways. Caribou, although more numerous in the far north, roam southern tundra country. Woolly mountain goats and Dall sheep, found in alpine regions, tend to scatter quickly when approached unless you’re scouting from the overhead vantage point of a flightseeing plane. Surefooted, they escape closerange viewing by bounding up impossibly steep, rocky slopes.
On the wing Believe it or not, bald eagles are among Alaska’s most readily spotted birds. Look for a snowy white dot high in the tree branches. A bald eagle’s bright-white head feathers stand out from the deep green foliage, making sightings easy once you get the hang of it. Haines proclaims itself the bald-eagle capital of the world. Thousands of the regal birds gather each fall for the Chilkat River salmon run. Watch for eagles perched in the trees along riverbanks. Alaska lays claim to the world’s largest concentration of bald eagles, and offers them a protected home at the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. The preserve was created by the State of Alaska in June 1982 to protect both the eagles and their habitat — including the salmon runs so important to the birds’ survival. The Chilkat preserve consists of 48,000 acres of bottom land of the Chilkat, Kleheni ABOVE: Moose in snow with white frost on trees; a North American beaver.
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and Tsirku rivers, which surround areas important to eagle habitation. Whether it’s your first visit to Alaska or your tenth, the thrill of spotting these captivating creatures will spark plans to return again and again.
photos by: (EaglE) sErgEy Uryadnikov/shUttErstock.com; (moosE) viscEralimagE/shUttErstock.com; (bEavEr) brian lasEnby/shUttErstock.com.
Likely animal encounters include the beaver, one of the more common land
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Facts
Cold Hard
Facts By Jonathan Siskin
Glaciers have shaped Alaska’s landscape since the prehistoric age. Alaska lays claim to more than 5,000 glaciers, covering nearly 5 percent of the state’s total land surface. They are concentrated around the Gulf of Alaska and the coastal mountains of the Panhandle. Southeast Alaska is one of only three places in the world (Scandinavia and Chile are the other two) where tidewater glaciers exist. Alaska’s glaciers have been on the move — advancing (growing), retreating (shrinking) and advancing again — for 12 million years. A glacier is said to be advancing when the accumulation of ice is greater than the amount that is melting, while retreating glaciers are melting faster than accumulating. Because these frozen masses are in a perpetual state of flux, they are, in a strange sort of way, alive. Here are just a few of the glaciers that add to the thrill of visiting this Great Land:
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photos by: (blue ice pools/glacier bay) ruth peterkin/shutterstock.com; (seal) Wild at art/shutterstock.com; (hubbard glacier) lee prince/shutterstock.com.
Cold Hard
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photos by: (blue ice pools/glacier bay) ruth peterkin/shutterstock.com; (seal) Wild at art/shutterstock.com; (hubbard glacier) lee prince/shutterstock.com.
OPPOSITE: Blue ice pools on Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau. ABOVE FROM LEFT: Glacier Bay National Park; seal perched on an iceberg; Hubbard Glacier.
College Fjord
National Park and Preserve extends more than 3.3 million
Each of the glaciers in this extraordinary fjord was named for
acres and can be reached only by boat or floatplane. Glacier
an eastern U.S. university or college that has sponsored an
Bay’s highlight is the mammoth Margerie Glacier, a mile-wide
expedition in the area. On one side of the fjord, all the glaciers
expanse of ice that rises 250 feet above the waterline.
are named after formerly all-male institutions, while the other side’s glaciers are called by the names of colleges that are or
Misty Fjords
were once all-female. They include:
Shaped by eons of glacial activity, Misty Fjords rightfully earns its name and reputation by soaking up some 160 inches of
• Columbia Glacier: At 300 feet high, the wall of ice called
rain and snow each year. Here lies one of America’s largest
Columbia Glacier, which is almost three miles across,
protected wilderness areas: Misty Fjords National Monument.
extends over an area larger than Los Angeles. Situated at
This 2.2-million-acre park is located in the heart of the Tongass
the north end of Prince William Sound, it has been retreating
National Forest and consists mainly of an undisturbed old-growth
rapidly since 1983. In the process of melting, it has been
forest of western hemlock, Sitka spruce and Alaska cedar. Within
dumping hundreds of thousands of tons of ice into the
the monument, the deep fjords of Walker Cove and Rudyerd Bay
sound every day. When a gigantic chunk of ice breaks away
penetrate the remote wilderness with their sheer granite cliffs
from its walls, the glacier is said to be calving; this calving is
rising to 3,000 feet. The continuously changing panorama of deep
accompanied by an enormous roar as the newly created
twisting waterways, abundant wildlife, cascading waterfalls and
iceberg plummets into the water and begins to drift away.
primeval rain forests blanketing the land is simply spellbinding.
• Harvard Glacier: The largest of the glaciers within College
traCy arM Fjord
Fjord, Harvard Glacier is almost a mile and a half wide and
The stunning rounded valleys of Tracy Arm Fjord were hollowed
reaches a height of 350 feet at its center. While imposing
out by the glaciers of the last great Ice Age. Located about 45
in size, Harvard Glacier is not especially lovely to look at,
miles south of Juneau, this 25-mile-long fjord is best known
as its sides are filled with sediment, rocks and various
for its stark, remote beauty carved out by glaciers into rugged
debris that give it a “dirty” look. The ice in the center of
chasms and cliffs. Keep an eye out for the North Sawyer and
the glacier, however, is a clear, vivid blue.
South Sawyer glaciers sending their icebergs crashing into the waters. If you look closely, you may spot bears, mountain goats,
• Yale and Wellesley Glaciers: Yale and Wellesley are two
hair seals, waterfowl and black-tailed deer resting on the icebergs.
of the most active glaciers in College Fjord, with Yale retreating and Wellesley advancing. Wellesley Glacier has
HuBBard glaCier
shown substantial forward movement since 1980. Its most
The mighty Hubbard Glacier extends more than 90 miles through
active period occurred between 1981 and 1986, when it
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park to the head of Yakutat Bay. In 1986,
surged 600 feet. However, Wellesley does not even come
the Hubbard made headlines when it began a surge, advancing
close to the astounding forward thrust of the Black Rapids
so rapidly that it completely blocked off Russell Fjord from the
Glacier (nicknamed the Galloping Glacier), which in 1937
sea and created a fast-rising freshwater lake. Miraculously, despite
surged more than three miles in six months.
water rushing into the ocean at a rate of 3.5-million cubic feet per second, no serious flooding occurred in the surrounding
glaCier Bay
areas. The wall of ice was eventually broken through and the
In Glacier Bay, 16 tidewater glaciers penetrate the two arms
fjord was opened. Hubbard remains one of Alaska’s most active
of the bay. Situated 50 miles north of Juneau, Glacier Bay
glaciers as it continues to advance.
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Bering Strait
ALASKA
Fairbanks
RUSSIA Denali
Denali National Park
Mt. McKinley
Talkeetna Anchorage
Whittier
Glacier Ba National Pa
Kenai Peninsula
Kenai Fjords National Park Bering Sea
College Fjord
Icy Strait
Prince William Sound
Gulf of Alaska
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s Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
CANADA
er
Hubbard Glacier
College Fjord
acier Bay tional Park
Haines
Strait Point
Skagway Juneau Tracy Arm Fjord
Sitka
Ketchikan Inside Pa ss
ag e
Vancouver San Francisco
Victoria Seattle
UNITED STATES PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Juneau
Alaska’s bustling capital and gateway to Glacier Bay, Juneau charmingly blends past and present. It’s a modern city built upon the tailings of an old gold mine. The city’s cosmopolitan style is evident in contemporary museums and office buildings, sophisticated shops and fine restaurants. Yet many are drawn to its fascinating history, which is lovingly preserved in and around its original falsefronted buildings and narrow, winding streets.
alysta/shutterstock.com
Wildlife and nature are major attractions. The area surrounding the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center is a showcase for glacial activity, and boasts a network of trails to explore. Juneau is home to 114 species of birds, all five species of salmon, and several species of whales — not to mention brown and black bears. Ten miles outside the city, Admiralty Island National Monument shelters the largest brown-bear population in Southeast Alaska.
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Alaska’s capital city perches on the Gastineau Channel.
QuIckGUIDE FAMED FOR: The “drive-up” Mendenhall Glacier, which survives from the Little Ice Age of more than 3,000 years ago. IT’S A FACT: The city is named after Joe Juneau, who started a gold rush with fellow prospector Richard Harris in 1880. SIGNATURE SOUVENIRS: Whalethemed gifts; gold nuggets; Native art from local galleries.
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Ju n eau
®
A perfect day in:
Juneau
THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT JUNEAU
Whit
ALASKA STATE MUSEUM
Juneau
Village St.
cjorgens/shutterstock.com; Frank FlavIn/travelalaska.com; lIbrary oF congress
Juneau is the only capital with a glacier in the suburbs, the only one where you can go from gourmet dining to whale watching CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE in less time than the average network commercial break. The town was founded in 1880, after Joe Juneau and Richard LEFT: Aerial view of Juneau; visitors explore the Glacier Harris struck gold — so much gold, it seemed the veins would Gardens; miners at the never run out. The works ran 24 hours a day, 364 days a year. Treadwell gold mine, 1916. Meanwhile, the local Auk Tlingits, who had fished and hunted here for thousands of years, wondered what the big deal was, and kept on creating some of the most sophisticated art the world has ever known. People still pan for gold at Last Chance Basin, and the Native understanding of the landscape is still vital under the treetops at Glacier Gardens, which gives people a chance to see just what’s in the world’s largest remaining temperate rainforest. Head farther out, to the trails along Mendenhall Glacier, or helicopter up to walk on this huge remnant of the last ice age. Hop on a boat to view humpback whales feeding in the rich local waters — and you’ll still have time for shopping along Franklin Street, where everything from jewelry to the finest Native arts are just a minute’s walk from where the ships dock. — E.R.H.
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A flightseeing tour offers a unique perspective when viewing Mendenhall Glacier.
Mendenhall Glacier
Juneau’s wonder offers a stunning trip back to the Ice Age By Nick Gallo
Mendenhall Glacier, a little north of Juneau, is the best known of 38 glaciers that feed on the Juneau Icefield, a 1,500-squaremile expanse of rock, ice and snow. Bigger than Rhode Island, the icefield is a remnant of the Little Ice Age, a period that started 3,000 years ago and lasted midway through the 18th century. The icefield is perpetually replenished by an annual snowfall that often tops 100 feet, and boasts snow and ice up to 4,500 feet thick. Mendenhall Glacier stretches 13 miles from the icefield in the mountains to its terminus at Mendenhall Lake, where the 112
glacial face — half a mile wide, 100 feet thick and electric-blue in color — can be seen from a popular Visitor Center on the shoreline.
NATURE ON THE MOVE The glacier possesses a frozen, still grandeur, but it’s hardly inert, notes Laurie Craig, a Visitor Center interpreter. A dynamic, moving force, the glacier is the overflow from the icefield, slowly and inexorably drawn down by gravity from 4,500-foot-high mountains to its terminus near sea level. Moving at the proverbial glacial pace, the ice edges forward at an
average rate of a few feet per day, taking more than 200 years to make the journey from upper elevations to the 220-foot-deep lake. “It’s like slow-moving lava,” says Craig. “It acquires wrinkles, crevasses and texture as it moves across the terrain.” Mendenhall Glacier doesn’t just move. It displays tremendous erosive power as it grinds through the landscape. Scouring debris from valley walls and scraping underlying bedrock, the glacier burrows deep, enduring marks on the topography. Near the Visitor Center, the presence of grooved, polished rocks is evidence of the glacier’s sandpaper-like effects. The
alaska dIvIsIon oF tourIsm
The most accessible of all the stupendous, bluish-white “rivers of ice” in the Inside Passage, Mendenhall Glacier — known as “the drive-up glacier” because it can be reached by car — dazzles visitors and makes the region a one-of-a-kind destination.
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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RIGHT: Glacier trekkers ascend Mendenhall Glacier. BELOW: The glacier is receding, revealing land long buried beneath it.
glacier also is responsible for the milky, gray-green cast that colors the lake, the result of “rock flour” deposited in the water when bedrock is ground into a fine powder. Like all of Juneau Icefield’s glaciers except one (the Taku), Mendenhall Glacier is receding. Since 1765, the glacier has been in a slow, gradual retreat because its rate of melting has exceeded its rate of accumulation. In the 18th century at its maximum advance, the glacier’s toehold in the valley extended from its present position to a spot two and a half miles downward. Today, receding ice has allowed land buried for thousands of years to reemerge and begin a new, remarkable ecological cycle. At first, bare rock and soil are exposed, but lichens and moss soon appear. Then grass and shrubs emerge, followed by alder, willow and other deciduous trees. Finally, Sitka spruce, western hemlock and other conifers take hold, inaugurating new forest. “These are stages of life,” says Craig. Mendenhall Glacier is named after Thomas Corwin Mendenhall, a prominent scientist who helped oversee a crucial survey that determined the international boundary between Canada and Alaska. Previously, the famed naturalist John Muir had visited the glacier in 1879 and named it Auk Glacier in honor of a local Tlingit Indian village. Muir called the glacier “one of the most beautiful of all the coastal glaciers.” More than a century later, Mendenhall Glacier still is one of the Inside Passage’s top natural sights. Like all glaciers, it can be enjoyed as a spectacle flaunting sublime blue colors and ineffable textures. At the same time, it serves as a time capsule, an outdoor classroom showcasing Alaska’s extraordinary geology and climatic history. “This is a neat place,” says Craig. “It’s not just beautiful. You also get to see some very impressive forces that shaped this region.” 114
bryan busovIckI/shutterstock.com; kerry l. Werry/shutterstock.com
ICY BEAUTY
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The Thunderbird Screen
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History comes alive in Juneau’s multifaceted cultural gem
history, indigenous cultures and natural
A visit to the comprehensive Alaska State Museum provides a captivating overview of Alaska’s immense cultural and historical landscape. By Lynn Seldon
to a life-size eagle nesting tree and
Established in 1900 as the Historical
the citizens of Juneau implemented
order to map the area.
Library and Museum for the Territory
a 1 percent sales tax to help fund the
Objects that reflect the richness of the
of Alaska, the museum didn’t have a
current two-story building in downtown
state today are continuously collected.
permanent home until 1920. Its collection
Juneau. Since its opening, the museum’s
Five permanent galleries, grouped
grew quickly and, by the 1960s, it was
collection has grown from 5,500 to 35,000
into Native peoples, Russian-America,
clear that a new building was needed.
display objects.
American period, natural history and
In 1967, in honor of the centennial of
The museum of fers a range of
the purchase of Alaska from Russia,
permanent displays highlighting Alaska’s
history. These displays, which take up more than half of the exhibition space, range from a tiny Aleut thimble basket a scaled-down version of the stern of Captain George Vancouver’s ship, Discovery, which plied the waters of Southeast Alaska from 1776 to 1779 in
the Children’s Room, feature an array of specimens and works of art.
all photos courtesy of alasKa state MuseuM
Alaska State Museum
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CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: The Eskimo gallery; the Museum Store; a display from Juneau’s mining days.
DIVERSITY ON DISPLAY
The American period details the
Among the most popular permanent
role of the United States in the region,
exhibitions are clothing, weapons, tools
with particular attention given to the
and ceremonial objects from Alaska’s
development of the state’s natural
distinct Alaska Native populations, such
resources. An entire room covers
as Northwest Coast, Athabascan, Aleut,
mining and is creatively constructed to
Inupiaq and Yup’ik. Highlights include a
resemble a rugged assay (substance
large explanatory state map; a 34-foot
analysis) office from the early days of
umiak (boat), one of the famed Chilkat
Alaskan mining ventures. There’s also
blankets; and the top of the Lincoln
an exhibition of minerals found in Alaska,
Totem, whose carver used President
as well as mining equipment and a
Abraham Lincoln as a model.
display case from a long-closed Juneau
Alaska’s Russian-America era is
store including early tourist curios.
represented by a wide variety of items.
The Children’s Room offers several
Generally dating from the 1740s to 1867, when
learning activities, including the
Russia sold Alaska to the United States for
Discovery ship replica. Young visitors
$7.2 million, artifacts in this fascinating gallery
are encouraged to don period costumes,
include a Russian imperial crest of a double-
climb aboard the ship and explore the
headed eagle and a large samovar, which
past. The wonder of discovery is open
was often used to brew tea.
to all ages. PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Ju n eau
special
®
advertising
feature
Juneau’s Mountaintop Attraction Within steps of the gangway of your cruise ship, you’ll find the Mount Roberts Tramway…
BELOW: Hiking the trails; the view from the tram.
photos courtesy oF mount roberts tramWay
…a tram that will whisk you 2,000 feet above Alaska’s capital, where you’ll get a raven’seye view of Gastineau Channel, the Chilkat Mountains and the lush forests, which are actually alpine meadows, of southeast Alaska. Tickets are available for purchase from the onboard Shore Excursions Department. At the summit of the tram, you’ll find well-marked trails and walkways — accented by ancient, traditional totemic carvings — that offer you the opportunity to absorb Alaska’s natural and historic beauty. In addition to the stunning landscape, you’ll often see eagles, ravens, Sitka blacktail deer, mountain goats, bears and wolves. An award-winning documentary, Seeing Daylight, offers insight into the local Native way of life of the Tlingit people. From time to time, Native artisans can be seen demonstrating their skills at RavenEagle Gifts, which carries everything from comfortable, affordable clothing and charming souvenirs to exquisite crystal and handcrafted traditional and modern Native artworks. Fresh Alaskan seafood, prepared to order and served by friendly staff, is complemented by a pleasant alpine atmosphere at the Timberline Bar & Grill.
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Caribou Crossings Buy “Made in Alaska” products here! Showcasing over 60 of Alaska’s leading artists, they search statewide to bring you crafts found in this unique store. Owned and operated by a local Juneau family. Located in the golden-yellow building near the Tram. 383 South Franklin Street www.cariboucrossings.com 877-586-5008
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Alaska Shirt Company Shop the Alaska Shirt Company in Juneau, where you’ll find hundreds of shirt styles for men, women and children and a fabulous souvenir collection. Our customers enjoy premium selections without premium prices. Located across from the Juneau Tram and Cruise Terminals. 489 South Franklin Street www. Shirtco.com 907-586-9510
House of Russia Discover Juneau’s rich Russian history! Explore the enormous selection of traditional handicrafts from Russia’s top artists. For over 25 years, the local owners have individually hand-selected every object in this store. Located in the golden-yellow building near the Tram. 389 South Franklin Street 877-770-2778
3/25/13 1:30 PM
Capture the
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Alaska Knifeworks
The Alaskan Fudge Co.
From Ulus to the finest folding pocket knives in the world, we’ve selected only great quality — blacksmiths, scrimshaw artists and topquality cutlery from around the state and the world for sale in our Juneau store.
Fresh, creamy fudge made daily right before your eyes. 21 different flavors of fudge, caramel corn, cookies, homemade peanut and cashew brittle, ice cream, caramels, turtles, clusters and so much more! Family-owned. Come in for the perfect gift! 195 South Franklin Street alaskanfudge@alaska.net 1-800-323-8343
2 Marine Way, Suite 114 In the big, blue building at the end of the Juneau dock.
Alaska Fur Gallery For four generations, Alaska Fur Gallery has been renowned for the quality and craftsmanship of its furs. These familyowned and -operated furriers produce a collection of men’s and women’s coats, hats, scarves, gloves, boots and slippers, with sizes from petite to plus. The Ultimate Alaskan Gift! 359 South Franklin Street info@akfurgallery.com akfurgallery.com 907-463-5588 888-722-3877
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Juneau eats special
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Flight Deck Outdoor Seafood Bar Spectacular food and views in Juneau! Located on the big blue Wharf deck by the floatplanes, with weather-protected seating on the pier. Open rain or shine, daily at 11 a.m. Enjoy the best fish & chips, ice-cold Alaskan beers plus crab boils and fish tacos. No reservations required. # 2 Marine Suite 125 907-723-5935
Twisted Fish Company Alask an Grill A wild place for wild fish! Waterfront restaurant located next to Tram & Taku Fish processing plant, serving fresh Alaskan seafood, appetizers and entrees daily from 11 a.m. Full-service bar and outdoor seating available. Reservations suggested. 550 South Franklin Street 907-463-5033
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3/19/13 4:27 PM
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Ketchikan
Ketchikan is often referred to as the Rain Capital of Alaska, since rain may fall every day. But Ketchikanners don’t seem to mind; in fact, they proudly predict: “If you can’t see Deer Mountain, it’s raining, and if you can see it, it’s going to rain!” So be careful when you use the phrase “Save it for a rainy day.”
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A vast rainforest is Ketchikan’s backyard.
QuickGUIDE FAMED FOR: Totem poles; Native villages; the vast Tongass National Forest — the largest in the United States. IT’S A FACT: In the 1880s, pioneers came to Ketchikan to fish for salmon rather than pan for gold. SIGNATURE SOUVENIRS: Salmon products; miniature totem poles; other items from the boutiques on Creek Street.
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Ke t c h i k an
®
A perfect day in:
Ketchikan THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT kETcHIkAN
Ma
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VISITORS BUREAU
BERTH 2
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Mil lW ay ce
RYUS FLOAT
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VISITOR INFORMATION
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Street Water
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TUNNEL
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PROMENADE
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Ketchikan peeks out of the mist like a hidden treasure, and when the sun does come out, it shines on one of the prettiest spots in Southeast Alaska. CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: This is the best place in the world to see totem poles, Totem Heritage Center; Misty Fjords waterfall; Creek Street. whether those along the water at Totem Bight State Historical Park; the antique poles at the Totem Heritage Center; or, as proof Native culture is thriving, the massive collection at Saxman, a one-mile-square Tlingit village. Other towns have some poles, but not this many — and nowhere else are there so many people with poles in their front yards. As Alaska’s southernmost town, Ketchikan offers a taste of what a visitor is in for: bald eagles diving into the Gastineau Channel almost every evening, catching fishermen’s discarded bait; float planes landing after a day of flightseeing to Misty Fjords; a landscape of endless forest; waterfalls; the whoosh of exhaling killer whales. Walk along Creek Street — once the red-light district, now a line of boutiques just minutes from the dock — and check for spawning salmon in the waters below. Or get adventurous and see what’s under the water: Ketchikan has some of Alaska’s best snorkeling. Totem poles are history, a way of telling a story. Alaska’s story begins here in Ketchikan, under the totems’ watchful gaze. — E.R.H.
DALY FLOAT BERTH 1
Ketchikan 128
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Ke t c h i k an
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Perpetuating a Proud Heritage Story and Photography by Edward Readicker-Henderson
Today’s totem carvers add new faces to the landscape.
Totem poles and Native art keep culture alive by telling stories of life in Southeast Alaska.
In the old days, a totem-pole carver might
training as a shaman; then, before a
have to pay with his life.
village hired a pole carver, they’d make
For centuries, as far back as five
him pass the equivalent of a graduate-
hundred years, the first thing visitors
level exam on local mythology. It could
would see when approaching a village
take a year to carve a large pole and if,
in Southeast Alaska would be a line
in the end, the carver got it wrong, if he’d
of totem poles facing the ocean. One
done something that changed the story,
glance at the geometric designs would
his life was in the villagers’ hands.
be enough to detect who lived in the
130
town, what clans were represented and,
THE TOTEm RENAISSANcE
most important, something about the
Those days are gone. There’s a new
people and their history.
generation, a new wave of totem-pole
Totem poles were never religious
carvers. Working out of carving sheds
objects; instead, they told stories, kept
in almost every Alaskan town of size,
the past alive. Traditionally, the Native
combining innovative styles with time-
men who carved the poles were the
honored tools, they’re finding ways to
only people welcome in every village,
tell the story of a region that is changing
and they worked hard for this honor.
dramatically, very quickly. They’re adding
Entrusted with the memory of a people,
words to the language of the totem
carvers went through much the same
pole and discovering just how flexible
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N o w TH IS is A las ka!
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Ke t c h i k an
®
that language is. The carvers are now making totem poles relevant to everyone, expanding their community to encompass the globe. The carving revival happened just in time. Totem poles nearly became extinct in the first half of the 20th century. Poles have a natural life span of about 60 years; formerly, when that period was over, they were left to rot and decay. Many poles were hitting this point right when another problem arose: In Canada, the government was suppressing Native traditions; and in Alaska, the government was making a conscious effort to put Native culture on the back burner.
the carving revival happened just as a new appreciation for native traditions was taking shape. But the tide finally turned in the 1950s with renewed interest in local customs and Native rights. Today, the new breed of carvers reaches out to a new audience. Tlingit Norman Jackson of Ketchikan says he carves so “everybody [will] understand our people. That’s why I learned you have to share the art.” The first step was to bring the old poles back. Most contemporary carvers learned their craft by making faithful reproductions of dying poles. Wayne Price, a Tlingit from Haines, and non-Native Steve Brown from Seattle carved five replicas for the Kik-Setti Totem Park in Wrangell. Tlingit Nathan Jackson of Ketchikan, Southeast’s premier carver, made a beautiful replica of a pole taken from Southeast in 1899 by the Harriman Expedition, part of a turnof-the-century pole rush, when museums and private collectors all over the world were grabbing poles while the grabbing was good.
AdROIT ARTISANS Poles have always been carved from western red cedar, and most poles are 132
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Th
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The magic starts with the
Jewe al
rs le
Reg
Regal Omega
Limited Edition D s esign
A l a sk a
M
Skagway
253 Broadway
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Juneau
405 S. Franklin
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Ketchikan
38 Front St.
2/4/13 3:10 PM
Ke t c h i k an
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“
the erection of a totem pole…is often talked of for a year or two beforehand.”
Masterpieces of expression
two or three feet in diameter. To get that smooth inner wood, the carver must hunt through the old-growth rainforest for a tree perhaps three times that size, one that was young when British Captain James Cook sailed in the area in the late-18th century. After a century of logging in Southeast’s forests, the biggest challenge facing the artisans at present might well be finding a suitable tree. Before carving begins, the log is cut in half and hollowed out to prevent the wood from cracking. Carvers could use modern power tools, of course, but they eschew them. Most poles are still carved with a small hatchet, called an adz, and an assortment of drawknives. Even the 134
paint jobs tend to be conventional, with pigments made of plants, charcoal and oxides. Using ancestral techniques doesn’t mean the carvers are adhering to the old styles, however. The new poles offer novel twists: a mirror to represent the sun and a Care Bear to please the carver’s daughter on Native Alaskan Lee Wallace’s poles outside Ketchikan’s Cape Fox Lodge; crossed flags of a state that didn’t exist when the first totems were carved on a Nathan Jackson pole at Ketchikan’s Totem Heritage Center; a stylized mother holding a realistic baby, both sheltered by a classic raven and frog on Nathan Jackson’s son Stephen’s masterpiece pole at Juneau’s tramway. The current generation of carvers freely mixes and matches old and new elements. The tale is more important than how it’s told, and though once limited by tradition, nowadays the stories are about anything from the record of a hunting trip to the report of a great vacation. A lot of recent poles are simply about the pole creation itself — who designed it, who was behind it, the community that found this activity the best way to come together. Putting up a pole has always been serious, expensive business. In 1879, the famed naturalist John Muir wrote that “the erection of a totem pole…is often talked of for a year or two beforehand,” and “from one to two hundred blankets, worth three dollars apiece, are paid to the genius who carves them.” Today, a carver can easily be paid upward of $2,000 per foot of artwork. Money is forthcoming: Towns are commissioning poles; private collectors are putting poles in their houses; no upscale establishment in Alaska is considered complete without a couple of poles; and
—John Muir, naturalist, 1879 museums worldwide are commissioning poles, both replicas and originals. A pole raising still brings everybody out. It can take a hundred people or more to carry a big pole. In the past, the carver would dance, with all his tools hanging from him, while someone else told the story of the pole. Now you probably won’t get the dance, but the storytelling remains the high point of the ceremony and the celebration goes on all night. No matter how the poles alter in form, no matter how the reasons for putting up a pole may change, the spirit behind the poles stays the same. As Nathan Jackson explained in a radio interview, poles tell “what we are, what we belong to, and what we’re born with.” They’re the faces of the coastal landscape, stories of the past and present given to the future.
Mother and child
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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The Bering Sea CraB FiShermen’S Tour is Simply the Best of Alaska! Come aboard the Aleutian Ballad for the adventure of a lifetime! The Aleutian Ballad was made famous when it was hit by a 60’ rogue wave and miraculously survived in season two of Discovery Channel’s award-winning TV series Deadliest Catch. Wildlife is everywhere in Alaska! Crabs, eagles, whales, octopus, sea lions, porpoise, wolf eels, sharks and seals are all frequent visitors on the Bering Sea Crab Fishermen’s Tour. There are no rogue waves or rough seas here! You will set out in the calm, protected waters of the Inside Passage to witness first-hand the amazing way of life of commercial fishermen. This fascinating, educational and interactive tour experience is perfect for all ages and is packed with stories and adventures shared by the men and women who risk their lives fishing the Bering Sea. Easy Activity: 3 ½ Hours Minimum age: 5 ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 5 Star Rating – TripAdvisor.com Traveler Rating
See Your onboard Shore excurSion deSk for TickeTS Bering Sea Crab Fishermen’s Tour
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2/15/13 10:36 AM
Ke t c h i k an
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Inside the Clan House Story and Photography by Edward Readicker-Henderson
Bow low when you enter a traditional clan house in southeast Alaska. it shows respect to the house and to its inhabitants. Besides, you won’t have any choice: A typical clan house doorway is only about four feet high, reminding those who cross the threshold that they’re entering a different world.
LEFT: Typical clan house door. ABOVE: Interior house post, Totem Bight tribal house.
fact, it’s more important than ever — the
traditional clan houses, the one at Totem
embrace of the clan house extends to the
Bight is a simple box, basically one large
entire community.
room with platforms ringing the central
Ketchikan is the best place in
fire pits. Each house was inhabited by
Southeast Alaska to get a look inside.
an extended family — anywhere from
One of its two houses is a replica that
30 to 100 people. The house chief’s
enlivens the past; the other is the center
living quarters, situated near the rear
of the town’s daily life.
of the dwelling, were separated from
In the early days, the low doors also made
136
the rest of the house by a large, carved
it easy for the people inside the house to
mOdELING THE PAST
wooden screen. Everyone else lived
bonk you on the head with an axe and
At Totem Bight State Historical Park, 12 miles
communally, although each individual
push you back outside if they didn’t want
north of Ketchikan’s cruise ship dock, a
had his or her own space, probably
you to come in. Fortunately, that doesn’t
masterly reproduction of a classic tribal
defined by bentwood boxes or blankets.
happen anymore.
house was built by the Civilian Conservation
A person’s relationship to the house
The clan house — sometimes called
Corps right before World War II. Its primary
chief was indicated by the proximity of his or
a tribal house — was once the center of
characteristics tell us much about the
her personal space to the patriarch’s space.
Native family life in Southeast Alaska. And
people who lived in such houses.
Traditionally, houses were built by workers
like many other Native traditions, after
The clan house was a winter dwelling
of the opposite moiety, or tribal subdivision,
fading away in the late-19th and early-20th
for Southeast Alaska Natives, who spent
from the people who would live in the
centuries, the tribal house is back. In
their summers at fish camps. Like all
house — that is, Ravens would build for
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Eagles or Wolves, and vice versa — and once the house was completed, the family would hold a feast for everyone as part of the dedication ceremony. Houses were named, but the name could live beyond the structure; a new house built in the same spot might carry the same name, as long as part of the original family still lived there. The tribal house in Totem Bight
The colorful exterior of a clan house
represents typical Native construction of the early-19th century. The house is built
REAcHING OUT
and some tribal affairs are administered
of red cedar, spruce and hemlock; the
Totem Bight’s clan house was built as a
at the clan house. “If we have conflicts,”
roof is shingled with cedar shakes; and
museum to keep the memory of the old
Saxman resident Nora DeWitt says, “that’s
the ridgepole is the same as one that
days alive. No one lives in clan houses
where we go to settle them.”
the naturalist John Muir described in 1879:
anymore. But that doesn’t mean they’re
But the Beaver Clan House is more
“yellow cypress…two feet in diameter, forty
irrelevant. As Tlingit Donna Diamond
than the center of life in Saxman. By
feet long, and as round and true as if it
points out, in this day of single-family
welcoming visitors for all manner of
had been turned in a lathe.”
dwellings, the modern-day tribal house
Native programs, the clan house reaches
serves to unite the community into
out beyond the village. Musicians play
a family of sorts.
centuries-old songs on traditional
The structure faces the water, as all such Native dwellings did. A village might have had eight or ten of these houses, ranging
A visit to Saxman, two and a half miles
instruments for audiences from around
in size from 30 by 40 feet to 50 by 100 feet,
south of the Ketchikan waterfront, is the
the world. Storytellers keep Native oral
lined up along the shore.
ideal way to discover the way the “new”
traditions alive. There are activities for
The Totem Bight house’s four interior
clan house functions. Saxman is an
kids and an artist’s co-op. In the summer
corners are graced by elaborately carved
independent Native village that occupies
months, the house is open for tours and
house posts. Resembling indoor totem
a square mile of territory inside the greater
regular performances of Native dances.
poles, house posts varied in their intricacy:
Ketchikan borough. The approximately 450
Something is happening at the clan
Some were adorned with abalone shells
people who call Saxman home maintain a
house almost every day of the year,
for eyes and with real human hair. The
strong sense of their Tlingit identity.
offering visitors a glimpse into the heart
floorboards of a tribal house lifted up
While not a residence, the Beaver Clan
of the village.
to reveal storage space beneath for
House, built in 1987 and surrounded by
Once upon a time, the clan house was
housewares, blankets and treasured items.
Alaska’s best collection of totem poles, is
a place where family stayed together, safe
Drying meats and other foodstuffs were
used in a very traditional manner. The clan
and secure from the dangers outside.
stored suspended from the rafters.
holds regular festival nights at the house
Now, as Diamond explains, it’s “a gathering
The bentwood boxes, fashioned without
and also conducts wedding ceremonies.
place…where different people come
nails, were made of cedar wood. Spruce
And it’s the venue for watch nights —
together.” The tribal house still unifies;
fibers were transformed into cooking pots.
something akin to a wake — when the
only now, its reach is broader than ever.
Long strips of cedar bark, also used as
community comes to say good-bye to
So don’t forget to bow down when
medicine, were woven into clothes. Indeed,
one of its members.
everything in a clan house was made of spruce or cedar.
Saxman has both a municipal government and a tribal government,
you enter a clan house. You’re being admitted into the heart of a community — a place of honor. PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Entrance to the Deer Mountain center; bald eagles at its bird sanctuary; a newly hatched salmon, one of the life stages that visitors can observe; two spawning salmon; rearing ponds.
Wild creatures have an advocate in the Deer Mountain Tribal Hatchery and Eagle Center, a tribally operated facility that promotes “conservation, education, and stewardship of the indigenous birds and fish of Southeast Alaska.” The center offers guided and narrated tours to educate visitors about the ties between Native people and the wildlife with whom they share the land. Its rehab center for sick and injured wildlife displays a collection of non-releasable birds that include three bald eagles, one golden eagle and a peregrine falcon. The fish hatchery raises salmon and steelhead trout to supplement Alaska’s wild fish species and to share with elderly members of local Native communities. Salmon are released into Ketchikan Creek and Ward Lake, where they spawn; they later return to Deer Mountain to hatch their young. The hatchery helps to protect the vitality of Alaska’s salmon industry, a crucial means of survival for many Native families. 138
AngelA m. BRown; vAsiko/shutteRstock.com; AngelA m. BRown; uwe kils/wikiPediA
Protecting the Future
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Shopping in
Ketchikan
Here’s the ultimate insider guide to what’s hot in town. See It? Like It? Buy It!
>>
Kabana
Riviera round pendant with blush chain
>>
Charles Krypell
>>
I Love You 7 Days a Week bracelet
Day 2 Night Flip ring
>>
Hublot
BigBa ng Ferrari watch
>> >>
Zenith
Pilot Montre d Aeronef Type 20 watch
Crown of Light Crown Brilliant earrings
>>
Star of Alaska >>
Orocal
Natural-mineral-stone pendant
Gold quartz heart shaped pendant
140
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Where Memories Begin CELEBRATE THE MOMENTS THAT CONNECT YOU
Sterling silver charms from $25
EURASIA JEWELRY 124 Main Street • Ketchikan, Alaska 99901 907.225.3272
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Ke t c h i k an
special
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advertising
feature
NUGGETS
The Next Big Thing
i iD vsk Swaro
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David Conner’s 30-ounce gold nugget contains some natural quartz.
illie
diamond, so can you only imagine how rare a thirty-ounce nugget is?” According to Conner, most gold pieces found are between 1 and 2 millimeters. Nuggets of this size can be bought at any of the Orocal Natural Gold Co. authorized dealers in Ketchikan and throughout Alaska. They can then be cut by skilled craftspeople into a beautiful piece of jewelry or as keepsakes to remember your trip to the Last Frontier. Conner is not sure if he’ll be selling “The Big One” anytime soon, but he hopes to put it on display at one of his authorized dealers to allow visitors a chance to see and even hold it. To learn more, visit www.orocal.com.
oa tW
Over the past 120 years, endless amounts of gold have been mined in Alaska; however, very few gold nuggets weighing over 30 ounces have ever been found. One now belongs to David Conner. In the fall of 2012, Conner, owner of Orocal Natural Gold Co., received a call from an Anchorage area number. He was offered an opportunity that, in over 45 years of doing business in Alaska, he had never seen. The caller was selling an authentic 30-ounce Alaskan gold nugget from his family estate that had been found years earlier. After careful consideration, Conner agreed to the sale. “You see, finding a nugget weighing over one ounce is considered rarer than a five-carat
skim
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PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Capture the
Spirit Ketchikan of
special
advertising
section
Ketchikan Mining Company
Great Alaskan Souvenirs & Gifts
Visit Ketchikan Mining Company for Alaskan gifts and souvenirs, apparel, jewelry, smoked salmon and Alaskamade totem poles. We also have a large section of Hatley pajamas for everyone in the family. Located on the cruise ship dock.
Great Alaskan Souvenirs & Gifts is a locally owned and operated Alaskan souvenir and T-shirt store located next to the Salmon Landing Market. We offer shirts, jackets, souvenirs, salmon, unique gifts and much more. Don’t forget to shop in our fun kids’ shop! 330D Spruce Mill Way insidepassageak@kpunet.net 907-247-1414
30 Front Street kmc@kpunet.net 907-247-3444 888-994-3444
the outlet store Located steps from your ship, we are Ketchikan’s exciting retail location! We sell souvenirs and have a large selection of bulk candy and homemade fudge. Our fudge is delicious! 5 Salmon Landing #100 kmc@kpunet.net 907-225-3008
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special
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feature
Alaska’s Logging History
144
A rich lumber source
To their surprise, they found in the forests of Southeast Alaska some of the world’s finest trees; the wood was ideal for shipbuilding. The Spanish quickly capitalized on this bounty by harvesting and shipping the wood to Baja, where it was used to expand their ever-growing fleet of ships. The news of the 1898 Yukon gold rush set the stage for the construction of small sawmills throughout Southeast Alaska to provide lumber for the building of shantytowns and to fuel the boilers of the hundreds of steamships racing up and down the coast with gold seekers from the Lower 48. By the early 1900s, as the gold rush slowed, settlers focused on the vast runs of salmon in the region. Newly opened canneries needed millions of feet of cedar to build crates to ship the salmon. World War II brought another boom to the region’s forest industry. Alaska’s readily available Sitka spruce was the lightest, strongest wood known, a high-grade lumber used in the production of planes and ships. After the war, Alaskan lumber was shipped to Japan to rebuild the war-torn nation. In fact, the Japanese market has consumed more Alaskan lumber in the past 50 years than any other country. Today less than one percent of the Tongass National Forest is set aside for logging. Ninety percent of the roadless wilderness remains untouched. All over the region, you can see loggers compete in small competitions and relive the good old days of the logging era. In Ketchikan, you can catch a live 75-minute competition between Alaskan and Canadian lumberjacks. Watch World Champion athletes, as seen on ESPN and OLN (Outdoor Life Network), compete in various events, such as log rolling, chopping, sawing and tree climbing. The daily show is hosted by the colorful Tale Twister, the camp cook who tells stories about these rugged men and their rugged land.
KetchiKan Visitors Bureau
In the early 1600s, the Spanish explored the waters of the Inside Passage of Alaska in hopes of establishing trade relations with the natives.
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Capture the
Spirit Ketchikan of
special
advertising
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sitka fur gallery
nick michael’s
For four generations, Sitka Fur Gallery has been renowned for the quality and craftsmanship of its furs. These familyowned and -operated furriers produce a collection of men’s and women’s coats, hats, scarves, gloves, boots and slippers, with sizes from petite to plus. The Ultimate Alaskan Gift!
This one-of-a-kind gallery contains an incredible collection of beautiful art by Alaskan and other U.S. artists, who capture the beauty of Alaska. Artists’ media include glass, bronze, metal, bone, ivory, wood and pottery. We have sculptures, dolls, knives, ivory and glass jewelry, scrimshaw, Christmas collectibles and much more.
312 Mission Street akfurs.com 907-225-8870 888-649-3820
328 Mission Street nickmichaelsgallery.com 907-225-3338
Scanlon Gallery Scanlon Gallery has a great selection of gold nugget jewelry made in Alaska by Rita Bishop. Rita combines other stones and opals with her designs to complement the beauty of the Alaskan gold nugget, which is the gem of Alaska. Rita’s Gold Nugget Jewelry can be found at Scanlon Gallery in Ketchikan, Alaska. 318 Mission Street www.scanlongallery.com 907-247-4730
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Specializing in the finest of authentic Northwest Coast and Alaskan Native art
Under the Welcome Arch on the historic waterfront
Into the Woods
AlAskA division of touRism
318 Mission Street Ketchikan www.arcticspiritgallery.com 907 228 2277
Tongass National Forest
Brenda
Schwartz Th e To n g as s N a t i o n a l Fo res t, encompassing more than 16 million acres, is the largest national forest in the United States and an integral part of Ketchikan’s economy and lifestyle. KriS Most people are surprised to learn alaskan art handcrafted made-in-alaska gifts original paintings BliSS that the Tongass is a rainforest, albeit limited editions Glass pottery Sculpture a temperate one; there is no defined Magical jewelry Books w rainy season and rain may fall here every day. On the first floor of Ketchikan’s Federal Building, the U.S. Forest Service Interpretive Center runs an excellent 318 Mission St. in Ketchikan 907 247 4730 program about this natural wonder.
A preMier GAllery
rita BiShop 146
www.ScanlonGallery.com
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Ketchikan eats special
advertising
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fish pirate’s saloon Visit Fish Pirate’s Saloon and take in the rich history of Alaska’s fishing industry. We specialize in Alaska king crab and fish & chips, with four Alaskan beers on tap. Our gift shop offers unique items to remind you of your memorable experiences in Ketchikan. 76 Front Street 907-225-1600
Black hoodie sweatshirt availaBle at fish Pirate’s saloon
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Skagway
Lee Prince/shutterstock.com
It was the birthplace of the Klondike gold rush, but Skagway was a much different place before gold fever struck. Only one family lived here, and there was only a crude trail over the White Pass. Native Tlingit people lived in the next valley at Dyea, where the traditional trade route over Chilkoot Pass led from the coast to the interior of Canada. Today, Skagway glories in its golden past with such attractions as the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, celebrating the Klondike gold rush through 15 restored buildings within the Skagway Historic District. And if you don’t feel like walking, horse-drawn carriages will transport you through town in true 19th-century style.
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The White Pass & Yukon Route Railway brings visitors into a breathtaking scene.
QuickGUIDE FAMED FOR: An Old West atmosphere, with horse-drawn carriages and other 19th-century tributes. IT’S A FACT: The gold rush began here on Aug. 17, 1896, when the precious metal was discovered on Rabbit Creek. SIGNATURE SOUVENIRS: A handpainted miner’s pan; a replica engine of the White Pass & Yukon railroad; a postcard from the Red Onion Saloon.
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Sk ag way
®
A perfect day in:
Skagway
THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT SKAGWAY Coming ashore in Skagway is taking a walk into history: Downtown hasn’t changed much since it first sprang up as a jump-off point for the great 1898 Klondike gold rush. Back then, thousands of people walked Broadway, buying gear for the trip north. Today, the false-front buildings are just as busy with art galleries and duty-free shops. Jammed into a tiny box valley, with glaciers shining on the eastern mountain slopes and the deep waters of the Lynn Canal reflecting the ice, Skagway looks like it was designed by a postcard company. Or maybe a toy train manufacturer. Each summer day, the beautifully refurbished White Pass & Yukon Route Railway runs excursions along trails originally worn smooth by the boots of would-be prospectors. You can still hike the Chilkoot Trail today, or just fly over the glaciers and rugged mountains in a helicopter and look down on the trail. In Skagway itself, almost nothing is more than a few minutes’ walk away. Stop at the Last Chance Saloon or Captain Moore’s House to see what life was like during the rush; catch the Days of ’98 show at the Eagle’s Hall; try panning for gold at the old dredge. Or just walk out to Yakutania Point for the best view of the town, the ships, the fjord. —E.R.H.
FROM TOP: The view down Broadway in downtown Skagway; helicopter tour over the mountains.
7t h
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VISITOR INFORMATION
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Brian adams/Travelalaska.com; Frank Flavin/Travelalaska.com
RAILROAD DOCK
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RAILROAD DOCK
150
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Th
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The magic starts with the
Regal Omega
A l a sk a Skagway
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253 Broadway
Juneau
405 S. Franklin
Ketchikan 38 Front St.
2/4/13 3:17 PM
Sk ag way
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A Railway Built of Gold By Stanton H. Patty
Called the “Scenic Railway of the World,” Skagway’s White Pass & Yukon Route Railway offers spectacular views.
More than a century ago, a railroad was born of a gold rush. Gold was discovered in the Yukon Territory in 1896. During the period 1897-1898, the stampeders arrived in Alaska en masse on their way to the Yukon. Gold brought with it commerce and
In the White Pass office, a fabulous hand-
permanence; the settlers needed a way
painted mural depicting the colorful history
in and a way out. The line, The White Pass
of the WP&YR wraps around all four walls of
& Yukon Route (WP&YR), was completed
the depot waiting room.
in two years, two months and two days.
152
Originally, the WP&YR covered 110
Now the White Pass & Yukon Route’s
miles, from Skagway across the lofty
narrow-gauge railroad, headquartered
St. Elias Mountains to Whitehorse, the
in Skagway, is one of Alaska’s top visitor
capital of Canada’s Yukon Territory. These
attractions. From May to September 2012,
days, trains run along the first 67.5 miles
it carried more than 390,000 passengers.
of track, between Skagway and Carcross,
They got to enjoy breathtaking scenery
Yukon Territory. Rail buffs rate the trip as
outside and charming nostalgia inside:
one of the great train rides of the world.
The polished green-and-brass parlor cars
At Carcross, a “golden” spike was driven
are straight out of the 1890s, boasting wide
into the ground on July 29, 1900, to mark
windows and comfortable seats.
the line’s completion. WP&YR officials and
The railroad’s original route
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report when Michael J. Heney, a Canadian railroad contractor, hiked into Skagway after scouting the mountain passes around Lake Bennett. Tancrede and his companions invited Heney to join them for a drink at Skagway’s St. James Hotel. The men talked far into the night. Heney affirmed that a railroad could be built through White Pass. “This country needs this railroad — and I would like to be the man to do it,” he told Tancrede. “Give me enough dynamite and snoose [snuff], and I’ll build a road to hell!” Heney was hired, and construction began on May 28, 1898. But even as the first ribbons of steel pointed toward White Pass, trouble was brewing back in Skagway.
LeFt: JeFF GreenBerG/skaGway convention and visitors Bureau; keLisi/wikiPedia; riGht white Pass & yukon route archives; wikiPedia; yuFei yuan, JadecoLor/wikiPedia
At the time, Skagway was a word “Gold!” became a shout
rowdy town ruled by an outlaw
heard around the world, and
gang. A visiting Canadian
soon the stampede was on.
Mountie called it “little better
Thousands of hopeful miners
than a hell on earth.” Robberies
poured through Skagway on
and murders were common
their way to the goldfields around the Klondike’s new boomtown, Dawson City.
occurrences. Honky-tonk Jefferson Randolph Smith, aka “Soapy” (1860-1898)
There were two perilous gold
pianos accompanied the crack of gunshots and cries for help. Jefferson Randolph
trails from the Skagway area. One was the
“Soapy” Smith, a sometimes charming,
avalanche-prone Chilkoot Trail. The other
always dangerous con man, reigned over
was known as the White Pass Trail. Both
both Skagway and the gold trails.
ended at Lake Bennett, British Columbia,
Local merchants decided that Soapy
where the gold-fevered prospectors built
Smith and his gaggle of gangsters had to go.
crude boats and rafts to float down the
The town’s wicked reputation was driving
Yukon River to Dawson City.
away business.
Halfway around the world, British
The showdown came on July 8, 1898.
financiers in London were looking
Vigilantes gathered on the Skagway
for ways to cash in on the Klondike
waterfront. Smith, hearing about the
madness. They reasoned there must
meeting, downed a glass of whiskey,
be a better way to get prospectors over
then, rifle in hand, marched down the
guests gathered in Carcross on July 29,
the mountains — and harvest a share of
street to confront his foes. Frank H. Reid,
2000, to celebrate the railroad’s centennial.
the miners’ gold. Sir Thomas Tancrede,
the town surveyor, blocked his way. There
TOP: Builders braved dangerous conditions. ABOVE: Monument in Carcross commemorates the centennial of the completion of the White Pass & Yukon route.
an English aristocrat, was dispatched to
was a brief scuffle. Smith shot Reid in the
BUILdING THE “ScENIc RAILWAY Of THE WORLd”
Skagway in 1898 to explore the feasibility
groin; Reid fired his revolver at almost the
of building a railroad into the Yukon.
same instant, putting a bullet through
Gold was discovered in the Klondike
Tancrede had a look around and decided
the scoundrel’s heart. Smith died on the
country of the Canadian Yukon, almost
that the mountain barriers were too high,
scene. Reid, mortally wounded, expired
500 miles north of Skagway, near the
the grades too steep.
shortly thereafter.
end of the 19th century. The whispered
He was just about to file a negative PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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The White Pass & Yukon Route Railway is recognized as an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.
Thirteen days later, the White Pass & Yukon Route dispatched its first train on a fourmile excursion for Skagway dignitaries. Two and a half miles out of town, the tracks meandered by the fresh graves of Soapy Smith and Frank Reid. Heney’s men continued toiling toward the White Pass summit. They hacked and blasted through the mountains with picks, shovels and black powder, sometimes dangling on ropes hundreds of feet above thundering rapids. They swatted swarms of mosquitoes in summer and endured winter temperatures plunging to 60 degrees below zero. The tracks reached the 2,865-foothigh White Pass summit in February 1899. And on July 29, construction crews coming from Skagway and Whitehorse met at Carcross.
Nowadays visitors are immersed in history as they ride the WP&YR train along the old rail trail over White Pass. While passing the Gold Rush Cemetery, passengers see a tall granite shaft over Reid’s resting place inscribed: “He gave his life for the honor of Skagway.” Smith’s grave is just outside the cemetery boundary. The good people of Skagway were not about to plant his remains in hallowed ground, Skagway tour guides tell visitors. Just beyond the cemeter y, the tracks rise quickly from sea level into the snowcapped peaks and blue-white glaciers of the St. Elias Mountains. The train weaves, climbs and grinds toward the crest of White Pass, looping across cliffhanging cuts with dizzying views of misty waterfalls and traversing granite paths where the boot prints of Klondike stampeders can still be seen. The stampede to the Klondike was a frenzy that burned out in little more than two years. But the White Pass & Yukon Route, a nugget from that epic gold rush, chugs along as one of the last remaining narrow-gauge railroads in North America. 154
white Pass & yukon route archives
“ALL ABOARd!”
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Our Nurturing Nature. These exquisite timepieces are made from exotic hardwoods sourced from sustainable forests around the world. Local economies are supported, workers can live with dignity, fragile forests are preserved and you get to wear a unique timepiece and feel good about doing it. And for every watch purchased WeWood will plant a tree. Sounds like a good deal all around. Supporting companies like WeWood is just one more part of our nurturing nature. ALASKA * MEXICAN RIVIERA * CARIBBEAN
Here it just feels right. Skagway
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Juneau
Cabo San Lucas
319 S. Franklin St., Juneau 525 Broadway, Skagway
3/6/13 4:19 PM
Sk ag way
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The deep fjord passes through high mountains.
The Lynn Canal Imprint of Ancient Alaska By edward readicker-henderson
Here’s a trick to guessing the heights of mountains in Southeast Alaska: If the tops are rounded and gentle, they’re under 3,500 feet or so; jagged mountains are over 3,500 feet. Why? Simple…
Seals hanging out on the rocks along the shore. 156
That alone wouldn’t be so spectacular. But in some places, the canal is not much more than a mile wide, with boundary cliffs rising a couple thousand feet into the sky. The canal is an important shelter for marine mammals. Seals and sea lions haul out on shoreline rocks (watch for visible ears — sea lions have them, seals don’t), and it’s not at all uncommon to see humpback whales coming in to feed off upwellings created by the steep underwater geography. And high above, bald eagles fly past mountain goats browsing fingernail-size cliff ledges.
REmARKABLE JOURNEY Nearing its head, the canal splits, the left fork heading toward the Chilkat River and the town of Haines. Another few miles straight on, the channel narrows and then splits a final time: Now the left fork goes to the ghost town of Dyea, little more than a few collapsed buildings whispering memories of the gold rush. The right fork dead-ends at Skagway, where the geography of the mountains
The majestic bald eagle
around the town echoes the canal: narrow, steep, the peaks whispering their own memories of glaciers. Come evening, the cruise ships have to back out of Skagway’s docks and do a three-point turn toward Dyea as if taking a last look back at the place that held so many hopeful miners’ dreams. Tugs escort the ships, ready to keep them on track if the canal’s famed winds start to blow; from the decks of the tugs, the ships seem like movable walls, their lights sparkling. And under it all, the seals, the whales, the otters go about their business as usual. The canal is home to them, but they don’t seem to have any trouble sharing it.
misheLLa/shutterstock.com; harry h marsh/shutterstock.com; caLeB Foster/shutterstock.com
The glaciers that carved this landscape came through at a height of around 3,500 feet, grinding down anything beneath them. Land higher than 3,500 feet escaped the glaciers’ clip job. Now consider: The glaciers did the same thing to all that land that today lies underwater. And there may be no better example of this than the Lynn Canal, the longest, deepest fjord in North America. The Lynn comes in at a bit over 90 miles, end to end. In some spots, it measures more than 2,000 feet deep, from the top of the calm water where ships travel to the darkest recesses of the ocean floor.
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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You’re Invited to Experience
Alaska
Creek Street, Ketchikan
“We should surround ourselves with a personal sense of delight. Alaska reflects the majestic beauty in our world. Its scenery helps us feel centered and alive. It quiets our souls.”
–Robert Howard Hunter
Breathtaking Images Summer breezes gently bend the treetops. A mist conceals a harbor. Snow freshly dusts the mountains. A bird contemplates flight. Artist Robert Howard Hunter captures these peaceful moments in his mind’s eye. He then translates them into breathtaking images in both realistic and abstract watercolors. Over four decades, he has produced 45 one-man shows and has participated in more than 160 exhibitions. From watercolors to graphite drawings, his work withstands the passage of time.
A Vision of Harmony Mendenhall Glacier, Juneau
4th and Broadway, Skagway
Amid the dynamics of a new era, Robert Hunter conveys a world that remains unchanged, unspoiled. His world is tranquil and richly diverse, yet robust with natural beauty. His visual images speak of rural roots, a smalltown heritage and connections to the land and sea. Communicating this is natural and vital to Robert’s existence. His creations are messages that he sends to art lovers throughout the world. Robert’s art reveals a vision of harmony and balance within our world and within the universe. His abstract paintings include beams, arcs and bands of muted and dazzling light. They hint of opposing textures. Spectrums of contradictory hues coexist compatibly, synergistically.
A Special Invitation We invite you to visit our studio for a quiet preview of Robert Hunter’s work. Capture your treasured memory of Alaska in an original watercolor or signed and numbered print. Proudly display in your own home his vision of America’s landscapes and seas. Share his gift of world peace and harmony.
750 Broadway • Skagway, AK 99840 888-877-5841
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When you leave the ship, ride the SMART bus to 750 Broadway.
11/29/12 3:27 PM
Shopping in
Skagway
>>
Here’s the ultimate insider guide to what’s hot in town. See it? Like it? Buy it!
Regal Omega
>>
Limited Edition Mark Henry pendant on Omega necklace
Forevermark
>>
Halo earrings
Kabana
>>
Alhambra Collection ring
Safi Kilima
>>
Tanzanite ring
Gift Collection >>
Diamond hoop earrings
Ernst Benz
>>
ChronoLunar Officer watch
Day 2 Night >>
Reversible tanzanite earrings
Crown of Light Fleur De Crown diamond ring
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Discover the beauty of blossoms
Come in to see our PANDORA charms to remember your Alaskan adventure!
JUNEAU JEWELRY CO. 317 S. Franklin Street Juneau, AK 99801 907.586.5911
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OMNI JEWELERS 2nd & Broadway Skagway, AK 99840 907.983.3402
431 S. Franklin Street Juneau, AK 99801 907.586.1001
3/19/13 4:30 PM
Sk ag way
Robert Service
®
Jack London
Josephine Sarah Marcus Earp
James Michener
Pierre Berton
Telling Tales
The stampeders of the great Klondike gold rush left two things in Skagway: hopeful paths so worn they’re still visible, and a mountain of stories.
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TOP: Alaska authors. ABOVE: Robert Service’s cabin in Dawson City, 1958. BELOW: The cover of Jack London’s classic novel, The Call of the Wild.
Robert Service, also known as the Bard of the Yukon, perhaps captures Skagway best in his poem, “The Trail of Ninety-Eight,” which recalls the days when he “joined the weltering mass/ Clamoring over their outfits, waiting to climb the Pass.” But Jack London is the town’s best seller. “The dogs dashed up on the street, adding to the gayety of Skaguay,” he wrote (with the spelling of the time) in The Call of the Wild. It was easy to have fun in Skagway. Naturalist John Muir said the town resembled a “nest of ants,” because it was the end of civilization: Beyond lay nothing but that calling wild. Still, Alaska’s wild spirit made even the great gunslinger Wyatt Earp nervous, according to his bride, Josephine Sarah
Marcus Earp, who wrote I Married Wyatt Earp. The book also mentions one of Earp’s pallbearers, Wilson Mizner, a member of Skagway’s infamous Soapy Smith gang. Soapy’s crew conned nearly every miner who passed through, and inspired endless myths. They developed such notoriety that they earned a cameo in one of Disney’s Uncle Scrooge comics and a major role in James Michener’s Alaska, a novel that seems to be half the size of the state itself. The gold rush has passed, the streets are tamed, but Skagway is still proud of when it was, as Pierre Berton recounts in Klondike, “outrageously lawless.” Because that makes for great stories — stories they’re still telling in the town’s streets and beyond. —E.R.H.
authors: wikiPedia.orG; LiBrary oF conGress; wikiPedia.orG; wikiPedia.orG; Berton house writers; caBin and Book: wikiPedia.orG
Skagway’s wild beauty inspired characters both real and imagined
PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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Capture the
Spirit Skagway of
special
advertising
section
Corrington’s Alaskan Ivory and Museum
Skagway Outlet Store The original outlet store in Southeast Alaska. A little farther down Broadway, but worth the walk for service, the huge variety of items, and the Alaskan atmosphere. You won’t want to miss this store.
Family-owned for 44 years. Experts in walrus and mammoth ivory, jade, soapstone, artifacts, masks, totemics and Native art. Beautiful and free museum of Alaska history told on scrimshawed (etched) ivory walrus tusks. Come in and meet trader Corrington, an Iditarod racing veteran. Next to the free bathrooms at the Skagway Bazaar.
7th Street at Broadway
5th Street at Broadway
The Alaska Knife & Ulu Store Huge selection of Alaskan and USA-made knives and ulus with beautiful blades and exquisite utilitarian handles. Located next to the Skagway Brewing Company and Alaska Fudge Store. We carry William Henry, Buck, Kershaw, Bob Merry, Eddie Lee, Pierce, Dale Duby, J- 2, Beaux Recatto and more. 7th Street and Broadway
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Capture the
Spirit Skagway of
special
advertising
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Dejon Delights
Alaska Shirt Company
The “Made in Alaska” Shop Alaskan family-owned and -operated since 1984. We feature fine handcrafted Alaska gifts including our own smoked salmon, a wide variety of local food items, woodcrafts, artwork and body care products.
With over 9,000 square feet of retail space and 100,000-plus shirts, we have more souvenirs than anyone. Located near the Train Depot. 1st & Broadway www.ShirtCo.com 907-586-9510
326 3rd Avenue www.dejondelights.com 907-766-2505
alaska fur gallery For four generations, Alaska Fur Gallery has been renowned for the quality and craftsmanship of its furs. These familyowned and -operated furriers produce a collection of men’s and women’s coats, hats, scarves, gloves, boots and slippers, with sizes from petite to plus. The Ultimate Alaskan Gift! 4th and Broadway akfurgallery.com 907-983-3877 877-722-3877
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Capture the
Spirit Skagway of
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The Alaskan Fudge Co. of Skagway Enjoy a large variety of delicious handcrafted fudge and confections at this locally owned candy store. Using fine ingredients, the Alaskan Fudge Co. of Skagway creates mouthwatering confections on marble tables right before your eyes. Looking for the perfect made-in-Alaska gift? We have a large selection of hand-dipped turtles, clusters, fudge, caramel corns and brittles.
section
Rushin’ Tailor’s Quilt Alaska We feature a huge selection of Alaskan and Northern themed fabrics as well as Northern themed Quilt Kits and patterns. Check us out at 370 Third Avenue, near the corner of 3rd and Broadway. 370 Third Avenue quiltalaska.com
Broadway & 7th 907-983-2052
Changing Threads Store
skagway brewing Co.
Featuring seaweed yarn dyed in-store and sold exclusively at Changing Threads. Visit our new location at 370 Third Avenue. We have recently combined with our sister store, Rushin’ Tailor’s QuiltAlaska, to provide you with great customer service and resources for all your quilting and needle art needs. Now both great stores under one roof.
Great micro brews, delicious pub fare and good times. We are Skagway’s local craft brewery! We have in-house hand-crafted ales, local halibut and salmon, great burgers and fries, a game room and gift shop. We work hard. We play hard. And we KNOW how to have a good time.
370 Third Avenue changingthreads.com
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7th & Broadway skagwaybrewing.com 907-983-BREW (2739)
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Sk ag way
®
The Ghosts of Skagway: They Haunt Us Still
Gourmet Food & Gifts
The false-front buildings of Skagway seem frozen in time, forever standing in that 1890s heyday of long skirts for women and mackinaws for men.
enjoy our Alaska style while in skagway or online. Eskimo Dolls • Totem Poles Ulu Knives • Smoked Salmon Dream Catchers & much more!
634 Broadway • Toll Free 1-888-595-4556 GiFTs From AlAskA For The enTire FAmily
www.northtoalaskagifts.com
425 Broadway • Skagway Celebrate Christmas Alaska Style!
Santas Ornaments Nativities Dolls
Maybe it’s that way because not everybody who came for the gold rush went away when it was over — or when their earthly lives were over. Skagway is literally haunted by some of its long-ago pioneers. Or so the local lore has it.
BANSHEE BUSINESS The town’s most famous ghost is in the Red Onion Saloon. Besides the usual business of creeping footsteps, clanking chains and pounding hearts, this spectre also seems to like watering the plants. The Golden North Hotel was built as the height of Alaska luxury in 1898. For a hundred years, ghosts enjoyed sharing rooms with live strangers. The hotel has been converted into a shop, but there’s still a chance of the dining-room ghost walking by, wondering what all those T-shirts are for. Finally, the most reliable ghost report: A town official was working late and alone in the Eagles Hall, where The Days of ’98 Show has been held for more than 25 years. This official heard banging and clanking and then something that he said was way too close to a scream. He left. Fast. But the ghosts of Skagway remain. —E.R.H.
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Th
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The magic starts with the
Regal Omega
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Skagway
253 Broadway
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Juneau
405 S. Franklin
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Ketchikan
38 Front St.
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Regional Highlights
Space Needle and Mount Rainier, Seattle
Haines. This picturesque port has drawn
Heritage Center. The restored Icy Strait
visitors since 1879, when naturalist John Muir
Point Cannery re-creates the days when
and other settlers paddled in by canoe
the salmon-processing facility was an
and were welcomed by the Chilkat people.
essential part of the community.
Besides human travelers, it attracts the
Cable cars en route to San Francisco Bay
largest annual gathering of bald eagles;
San Francisco. The famed Fisherman’s
some 4,000 of the regal birds flock to Haines
Wharf is one of the top draws in the city
each fall. Perhaps they’re lured by the Alaska
by the bay, where majestic Golden Gate
Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve, a 48,000-acre
Bridge rises a breathtaking 220 feet at
state park that strives to protect America’s
mid-point. A ferry takes visitors across the
great national symbol. Historic sites include
bay to Alcatraz, which is still remembered
Fort William H. Seward, a former U.S. Army
as one of the nation’s most feared prisons,
post established in the 1900s, where totem
decades after it shut down and became a
carvers demonstrate their artistry; the Cultural
museum. Chinatown also beckons, offering
Heritage Center, which features dioramas
a heady mix of old traditions and new
and artifacts that present local Tlingit history
attitudes. The city’s historic cable cars are
as well as Haines’ pioneer roots; and Dalton
the easiest — and most memorable — way
City, a re-creation of an 1898 mining town.
to get up and down all those steep hills, and as National Historic Landmarks, they offer
Icy Strait Point. Visitors are fully engaged
a piece of living heritage. Just across the
in Icy Strait Point, which offers exhilarating
bay lies Sausalito, an artists’ colony where
recreation, intriguing culture, delicious
boutiques and galleries line the waterfront.
food and authentic local Southeast Alaska
San Francisco also is close to the esteemed
shops. Nature enthusiasts find it ideal for
wine country of Sonoma and Napa Valley.
wildlife spotting: Orcas and humpback
An orca offshore at Icy Strait Point 166
whales cruise offshore, coastal brown
Seattle. Founded in 1851, the so-called
bears lumber on land and bald eagles
Emerald City celebrates its past at Pioneer
soar above. Icy Strait Point is the homeland
Square, which is a National Historic District,
of the Huna Tlingit Natives, whose history
and at Chinatown-International District,
and culture can be explored at the Native
where Seattle’s Asian-American heritage
Left: Dean Bergmann/istockphoto.com; can BaLciogLU/shUtterstock.com; James m. pheLps, Jr./shUtterstock.com; BranDon LaUfenBerg/istockphoto.com; right: JULy fLower/shUtterstock.com; Jamey ekins/shUtterstock.com; aLpengLow Design LLc/shUtterstock.com
Pristine wilderness near Haines
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®
Regiona l
H i g h li g ht s
Left: Dean Bergmann/istockphoto.com; can BaLciogLU/shUtterstock.com; James m. pheLps, Jr./shUtterstock.com; BranDon LaUfenBerg/istockphoto.com; right: JULy fLower/shUtterstock.com; Jamey ekins/shUtterstock.com; aLpengLow Design LLc/shUtterstock.com
Majestic mountains standing watch over Sitka
is showcased at restaurants, shops and
of the 2010 Winter Olympics. One of the most
historical exhibits. Shoppers find plenty
impressive parks is Stanley Park, a 1,000-acre
to keep them happy at lively Pike Place,
forested peninsula filled with beaches and
the oldest open-air market on the West
walking trails, including a seven-mile-long
Coast; here, local artisans, farmers and
seawall. In the center of the city, atop Little
other merchants offer their wares. Seattle’s
Mountain, sits Queen Elizabeth Park. Once
numerous museums and cultural venues
a humble quarry, it is now a sunken garden
include Seattle Center, which is located
blooming with shrubbery and flowerbeds,
on the grounds of the 1962 World’s Fair —
and housing an aviary for more than 100
birthplace of Seattle’s most famous icon,
free-flying birds. Eastern inspiration blossoms
the Space Needle. Take a ferry across
at the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese
Puget Sound and enjoy a stunning view
Garden. Chinese artisans created the
of the Olympic Mountains, the Cascade
garden with materials imported from China
Range and Mount Rainier.
and used traditional building methods dating
Queen Elizabeth Park, Vancouver
back to the Ming Dynasty.
Sitka. Visiting Sitka is like taking a step back in time and across the seas, embarking on
Victoria. The influence of Victoria’s
an adventure to explore Alaska’s multicultural
English founders remains strong in this
roots. The city boasts museums, cultural
pretty city of well-tended gardens and
events and historic sites that preserve Tlingit,
charming homes. During the gold-rush
Russian and early American heritage. Its
days of the mid-1800s it was home to
most famous landmark is the beautifully
thousands of hopeful prospectors. Today
domed St. Michael’s Cathedral on Lincoln
it showcases its nautical past at the
Street; the Russian Orthodox church holds
Maritime Museum of British Columbia,
some of the most treasured Russian icons
which displays some 5,000 treasures. The
in the United States, including priceless
heart of the city curves around the quaint
paintings and vestments.
stone-walled Inner Harbour, around which are such attractions as the Undersea
Vancouver. Lovely parks and exquisite
Gardens, the Royal London Wax Museum
botanical gardens fill this Canadian port, host
and the ivy-covered Empress Hotel.
British Columbia Parliament, Victoria PRINCESS CRUISES DISCOVERY
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cartier.com
Diamonds International Available exclusively in Juneau, Ketchikan and Skagway
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New Collection TANK ANGLAISE
3/11/13 3:29 PM