2018 PC Voyages Alaska

voyages alaska

Charting a New Course with Princess CruisesÂŽ

Alaska — 2018 Cruises Please return magazine to stateroom at voyage end

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© KABANA. All designs protected by copyright laws. All rights reserved. Reproduction/Duplication prohibited.

Diamonds International | Select Onboard Boutiques | Màti Jewelers Made in the USA | kabana.com

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GOLD QUARTZ COLLECTION in yellow gold

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LESS STRESS, better life

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TRAVELER COLLECTION Dare to explore the journey within you with the new Traveler Collection embedded, as all Philip Stein products, with our unique Natural Frequency TechnologyÂŽ which harnesses and channels frequencies to help you feel less stressed and improve your overall wellbeing.

Ketchikan: Diamonds International, Blue Diamond Juneau: Diamonds International, Blue Diamond Skagway: Diamonds International, Milano Diamond Gallery Discover your wellbeing at philipstein.com Available onboard at Select Princess Boutiques

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KETCHIKAN: DIAMONDS INTERNATIONAL, BLUE DIAMOND JUNEAU: DIAMONDS INTERNATIONAL, JEWELS BY KRIS SKAGWAY: DIAMONDS INTERNATIONAL, SKAGWAY JEWELRY CO.

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voyages Charting a new course with Princess Cruises 2018 Cruises

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let your journey begin

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Dreaming of how you’ll spend your days on board? The beauty of a cruise is that there are endless possibilities and no wrong choices.

Let us introduce you to The Shops of Princess, awarded “Best Onboard Shopping” by the readers of Porthole Cruise Magazine.

at your ser vice

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delicious dilemma

time that’s al l yours

celebrate new discoveries

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An Exploration of Culture

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Movies Under the Stars ®

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Youth & Teen Programs

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relive your time at sea

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Shows & Entertainment

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Princess Cruises

Captain’s Circle SM

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night life

SHARE YOUR STORY Connect with Princess and fellow guests via Facebook, YouTube, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest and Google+.

Share stories of your Princess adventures, watch videos and much more. #comebacknew

The contents of this magazine are protected by copyright. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, including but not limited to transmission by any means, in any form — digital, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise — is forbidden without express, written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork or other material. Electronic queries only will be acknowledged. E-mail to: editor@onboardmedia.com. Commentary and opinions expressed in Voyages: Charting a New Course with Princess Cruises are not necessarily those of the cruise line. Princess Cruises is not responsible for any claims or offers made in advertisements appearing in Voyages: Charting a New Course with Princess Cruises.

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Diamond Omega features a beautiful diamond in the clasp

PLUS - Every Diamond Omega comes with a FREE 6ct northern lights pendant

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denali national park

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Style at Sea Cruising the Inside Passage Denali National Park Glacier Bay Where the Wild Things Roam Map of Alaska

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regional highlights

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GOLD QUARTZ & NUGGET COLLECTIONS

Quality, Value & Selection made in the USA since 1965!

ANCHORAGE The Alaskan Mint 5th Ave Jewelers SITKA Goldsmith Galleries

KETCHIKAN Julie’s Fine Jewelry Julie’s Dock St. Gallery Julie’s at the Promenade

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JUNEAU Blue Diamond Jewels by Kris True Love Boutique SKAGWAY Lynch- Kennedy

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Princess Cruises Gift Card Treat your loved ones or that special someone to a gift they’re sure to love.

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Choose from a variety of gift card designs and denominations Easy and convenient redemption options Flexibility to use for an existing cruise booking or onboard service Expedited delivery available for plastic gift cards Send a digital gift card instantly online through email

For more information visit princess.com/giftcard

At this time, Princess Cruises Gift Cards are only available for purchase by residents of the United States and Canada. Please note that Princess Cruises Plastic Gift Cards cannot be mailed to Canada so Canadian residents wishing to purchase a Gift Card should select the Digital Card option. Digital gift cards redeemed by Canadian residents can only be used towards cruise passage for bookings made in US Dollars or on board all Princess vessels at the passenger services desk. Princess Cruises Gift Cards cannot be applied towards cruise passage for bookings made in Canadian Dollars. Standard Gift Cards have no expiration date. Promotional Gift Cards may carry an expiration date which will be printed on the Promotional Gift Card. Gift Cards do not incur any dormancy fees for non-use. Gift Cards are not credit, debit, or charge cards, and have no implied warranties. PrincessÂŽ does not accept responsibility for lost, damaged or stolen Gift Cards, or any unauthorized use of Gift Cards. Gift Cards have no value until activated at time of purchase, and Gift Cards will not be activated until payment is verified. Gift Cards will be activated when delivered, and will be active upon receipt by the customer. Gift Cards cannot be reloaded, meaning funds may not be added to Gift Cards after activation. Once activated, Gift Cards may not be resold; resale or attempted resale is grounds for seizure and cancellation of the Gift Card without compensation. Gift Cards are not refundable or redeemable for cash, except where required by law. Princess may refuse, cancel or hold for review Gift Cards and Gift Card orders in cases where it suspects fraud, mistake, alteration, issuance in an incorrect denomination, or violations of law, policies or these Terms and Conditions. Gift Cards are issued by Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. Princess and the issuer reserve the right, and holders or purchasers of a Gift Card agree that, Princess and the issuer may at any time change these Terms and Conditions, as permitted by law.

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Because your vacation won’t last forever, but your memories can...

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© Forevermark 2018. Forevermark®, ®

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8400 NW 36th Street, Suite 520, Miami, FL 33166 Tel: (305) 673.0400, Fax: (786) 558.1063 www.onboardmedia.com

Robin Rosenboum-Andras Senior Vice President, Marketing Carrie Julier Senior Vice President, General Manager Jennifer Zawadzki Director of Operations

Editorial & Design

Virginia C. Valls Kate McClare Ryan Slattery Iliana Soto Beth Wood Carlos Suarez-Murias James Perdomo Gail Abrams Violeta Manco-Rojas

Publishing Director Editor Managing Editor Associate Editor Senior Art Director Associate Art Director Production Coordinator Ad Services Director Ad Services Manager

Contributing Writers

John Anderson, Richard Carroll, Julie Ceritelli, Ginger Dingus, Janet Groene, Lauramay LaChance, Kelly Liszt, Stanton H. Patty, Lynn Seldon.

Advertising Sales

Rudi Riekstins Director of Sales and Cruise Revenue

Anna Riekstins Director of International Sales & Brand Marketing

Rod Musum Executive Director of Sales

Elyce Kolder Brands Marketing & Promotions Coordinator

Video/Film Production

Todd Hedge Director/Executive Producer

Juan Carlos Peña Director of Photography

Kevin Maschke Post-Production Supervisor

Caroline Keith Producer

Darien F. Rodriguez Editor

Iris Cegarra Editor

Daniel Kaplan Videographer/Editor

Port Shopping Revenue

Vince Mikulus Regional Marketing Manager

Will Oldham Regional Marketing Manager

Andrew Vrzal Regional Marketing Manager

Jimmy Marks Retail Program Manager

Port Shopping

Rina Alvarado Operations Coordinator Candice Ewing Operations Coordinator Nadine Winter Customer Relations Manager

©2018 Onboard Media. No claim to original works of Princess Cruises or advertisers.

Printed in Canada.

All articles, descriptions and suggestions concerning activities, tourist attractions and other vacation opportunities described in this publication are merely expressions of opinions by contributing writers, do not constitute the opinions of Onboard Media, Inc, or Princess Cruises, and under no circumstances constitute assurances or guarantees concerning the quality or safety of any such attraction or activity. Onboard Media, Inc, and Princess Cruises specifically disclaim any liability for damages incurred due to the attendance or participation by readers of this publication in any such activity or attraction, and the attendance or participation in any such activity or attraction shall be made solely at the reader’s own risk.

We and our content providers (“we”) have tried to make the information in this publication as accurate as possible, but it is provided “as is” and we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from this information.

FEATURED BUSINESSES HAVE PAID TO BE INCLUDED IN THIS PUBLICATION THE 60-DAY GUARANTEE ASSURES BUYERS THAT THE STORES LISTED IN THIS PUBLICATION STAND BEHIND THE QUALITY OF THEIR MERCHANDISE. BUYER’S REMORSE, BUYER’S NEGLIGENCE AND LOST OR STOLEN MERCHANDISE ARE EXCLUDED FROM THIS GUARANTEE. MANY STORES IN PORT, INCLUDING STORES THAT DO NOT PARTICIPATE IN THE PROGRAM, MAY OFFER THEIR OWN GUARANTEES, BUT ARE NOT INCLUDED IN THE GUARANTEE STATED ON THE MAP.

SARAH JACKSON/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Ships of Bermudan registry.

All rights reserved. The entire contents of this publication are protected by copyright. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner.

*THE FULL BUYER’S GUARANTEE IS LISTED ON YOUR SHOPPING MAP.

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COLOR TREND OF THE YEAR

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h e ll o f r o m y o ur p r in c e s s s h o p pin g h o s t

WELCOME ABOARD! We’re glad you have

A few of the resources available for your days on board and ashore.

sav v y t ravele 2018 ala

ska edition

savvy travel er 2018 alask a editi on

als o inc lud gre at on es bo ard of fer s!

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joined us on this cruise to the incredible ports of Alaska. It’s our job to help you make the most of your vacation, especially when it’s time to shop.

During this voyage, I’ll provide you with helpful advice about shopping on board and in the ports of call. I’ll be hosting the live Shopping Spotlight Show and special events on watches and jewelry, and I’ll be available each evening at the Princess Shopping Desk. I’ll also provide you with maps, brochures and other guidance upon request.

You’ll find even more expert guidance on your television, with video replays of the Shopping Spotlight Show and special features about our boutiques on board.

With all this advice, you’ll know exactly how to enjoy the unsurpassed experience of shopping on vacation.

At your service, Your Princess Shopping Host

f r ee

Heart Nec

klace Del Sol Bag

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Oro Trevi is a unique 14k & 18k Italian gold collection sold exclusively at Monarch Jewels Monarch Jewels: 38 Front Street, Ketchikan, AK 99901 | 907-247-2383 6194.indd 1

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let your journey begin

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GO STAND ON DECK and breathe in the fresh air. Explore your ship and all its amenities. Make new friends in the Piazza. Discover more about yourself and the world around you on a vacation designed just for you.

Consider this book a guide to what you can expect on your cruise and what you’ll find on your ship. The introduction to a new hobby. A cozy nook to call your own.

Your favorite new dish. Anticipate moments that not only relax or entertain you but also lead you to come back new.ÂŽ

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at your ser vice Princess Cruises moments that matter

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IT COULD BE a bartender who remembers your favorite drink every time. The stateroom steward who welcomes you back with a smile. The waiter who always knows which dessert you’ll choose. These are moments that matter, small gestures that make a big difference in how at home you feel at sea.

Crewmembers who exceed the expectations of guests like you can receive the Moments that Matter award, which is part of the CRUISE program. CRUISE promotes our core values: we serve, we respect our team, we innovate, we are consistent, we are accountable and we do it right. Throughout your voyage, you’ll see crew members embodying these principles because we’re committed to ensuring your vacation is relaxed tand refreshing.

What moments matter to you? A friendly suggestion about which afternoon activity will please your entire group. Swapping stories about home. Vacation memories are precious, and they’re often made in unexpected ways. We not only want you to remember the places you visit and the spectacular ship you sailed on but also how valued you felt while you were here.

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delicious dilemma

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FOOD IS MORE THAN SUSTENANCE. It’s thrilling. Comforting.

It weaves through our memories like a favorite song and connects us to a time and place. It brings people together, an unassailable reason for taking the time to simply sit and talk.

Our Designed for Fresh cuisine celebrates food in all its forms. A burger grilled to order on deck. A slice of handmade pizza by the pool.

A seafood feast as you take in the perfect stillness of the sea. Fresh regional dishes inspired by the places you go. Sauces made from scratch and breads baked fresh every day.

Savor the varied menus of our Traditional and Anytime DiningSM rooms. Try something new, like a local delicacy, or select a familiar favorite, such as signature pastas. All freshly prepared. Then end on a heavenly note with Chocolate Journeys℠ from master chocolatier Norman Love.

Indulge in a meal at any of our specialty restaurants. A six-course, fine dining experience at SHARE by Curtis Stone. Handmade pasta dishes at Sabatini’s Italian Trattoria from Chef Angelo Auriana. An aged prime steak at Crown Grill or Sterling Steakhouse. An exclusive, multicourse dinner from the executive chef called the Chef’s Table.

The Ultimate Balcony Dining served in your own balcony stateroom.

Embrace the many flavors you’ll find here and the meals shared with your favorite people.

Note: Please reference your Princess Patter or log on to Princess@Sea for information about the restaurants and dining venues on board.

Your ship is a floating destination of culinary delights, with options to match every taste and mood.

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time that’s al l yours WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME you felt completely free?

When you could let all your cares go and do whatever you want.

No chores, no obligations. Just you and your whims.

Consider this your wonderland, and every day an invitation — better yet, permission — to spend your days your way. To get in touch with your artistic side. To learn a new dance. Or to just sit by the pool and read a book.

Access a list of each day’s activities in your Princess Patter or on Princess@Sea. And feel free.

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renew yourself body & soul

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BEST CRUISE SHIP BED Cruise Critic

IT’S THE PEACE OF A SUNSET over the sea. An invigorating swim followed by a massage.

The most refreshing night of sleep you’ve had in years. Rejuvenation can be found in moments when you feel like the world stands still.

Savor a little “me time” in the Lotus Spa® — the wonders of hot stones, the calm of a facial or the pampering that only a full-service salon offers. If toning is your treat, make your way to our comprehensive fitness center for personal training and the latest classes.

Retreat to The Sanctuary for an outdoor oasis reserved exclusively for adults.* Lounge the day away, attended to by Serenity Stewards. Listen to the soothing sounds of the ocean. For the ultimate indulgence, enjoy a massage under a cabana.

Anticipate the best sleep at sea on the award-winning Princess Luxury Bed, created in collaboration with board-certified sleep expert Dr. Michael Breus and HGTV designer Candice Olson, in a stateroom optimized for slumber through a program Dr. Breus helped design: SLEEP

by Princess.

Here it’s easy to take it easy.

* The Sanctuary is available on most ships. Covered cabanas and massages not available in The Sanctuary on all ships.

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celebrate new discoveries

IT’S THE FEEL of a leather designer handbag. The thrill of trying on earrings that make you shine. Find your happy place in The Shops of Princess,™ home to The Runway fashion show, trunk shows, an exclusive onboard outlet and the finest tax- and duty-free shopping at sea.

Princess Cruises Voyages

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relive your time at sea IT’S THE ULTIMATE souvenir: a reminder of your adventures together. Let the Princess Photo & Video team capture moments that become memories, and tell stories for years to come.

BEST

ONBOARD PHOTOGRAPHY READERS’ CHOICE AWARD PORTHOLE MAGAZINE

PLATINUM STUDIO

by Joe Craig

YOUR LIFE. OUR ART. YOUR LEGACY. Created by internationally recognized photographer Joe Craig, the Platinum Studio experience puts the focus on your inner spirit. Using creative lighting techniques, our specially trained Platinum Artist creates a unique style of art with sessions taking place in a private studio.

Visit the Photo & Video Gallery to book your appointment today!

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an exploration of culture EXPAND YOUR CULTURAL HORIZONS through onboard activities designed to engage your mind and inspire your spirit.

Develop your culinary skills in a cooking class. Brush up on art history, and make your own masterpiece in arts and crafts. Hone your navigational awareness. Gain a fresh perspective on regional life through the destination experts, from local residents to naturalists, of Encounters with Discovery at SEA™.

Dabble in the fast-paced world of live art auctions, and find your new favorite work of art. Bid on hundreds of creations from the art world’s biggest stars of the past and present, and have your new piece shipped right to your door. Join gallery events and enrichment lectures with those who share your passion.

Discover the beauty of experiencing something old and learning something new.

Princess Cruises Voyages

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the sky’s the limit Experience the joy of watching a feature film on a

giant poolside screen — a concept pioneered by Princess® — with Movies Under the Stars.®

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THERE’S NOTHING LIKE taking in a movie while surrounded by the sea, the thrills of the action onscreen enhanced by the beauty all around you. Order a drink, grab a bag of complimentary popcorn, and find a lounge chair by the pool (or a spot in the hot tub). With a high-tech 300-square-foot LED screen and 69,000-watt stereo system there are no bad seats here.

Like any good multiplex, Movies Under the Stars® keeps a varied schedule, showing up to five films during the day and two feature films at night, plus concerts and major sporting events. Catch NFL games and playoffs, NBA Finals, MLB World Series, college bowl games and more on the big screen.* Share the fun with whole family, and let the kids go wild at PlayStation® and Nintendo® Wii™ tournaments. Teens will enjoy late-night screenings just for them.

Sit back, relax, and enjoy the show. *Satellite coverage permitting.

Note: Movies Under the Stars is featured on most Princess ships.

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—introducing —

reimagined youth & teen centers CALLING ALL EXPLORERS. Go where imagination sets sail and each day offers the opportunity to discover new worlds. Created in partnership with Discovery,™ our engaging centers and enhanced programs inspire cruisers ages three to 17. Visit princess.com/family for details. Rolling out fleetwide through 2019.

The Treehouse – Just for younger kids (ages 3 – 7)

The Lodge – Just for bigger kids (ages 8 – 12)

Theme nights. Art projects. Sports activities. Movies. From The Treehouse, a forest-like spot for kids three to seven, to The Lodge, an outdoors-themed home base for kids eight to 12, Camp Discovery is the place for kids to play, huddle, create and discover.

*Youth facilities, age groupings and programs vary by ship.

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The Beach House – Just for teens (ages 13 – 17) Teens can head to The Beach House, their exclusive lounge. Here they’ll battle each other in gaming tournaments and at mini golf, air hockey and pingpong. Join in interactive scavenger hunts. Enjoy dance classes, movie nights and a red-carpet VIP party. And, most of all, make new friends.

Parents’ Night Out Take advantage of nighttime babysitting,* and hit the bars, casinos and shows, while the kids watch movies and play games. Everyone wins.

*Nominal fee applies for late-night kid sitting.

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the night belongs to you Uncover enchantment each night, whether dancing in a club or savoring a glass of your favorite pinot in Vines wine bar.

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IT’S A RARE LUXURY, the ability to walk out of your stateroom any evening and take in a musical, roll the dice in a lively casino or dance the night away in a state-of-the-art nightclub. Here it’s your luxury.

Each night you have your choice of entertaining options only steps away. Laugh at a top-notch comedy act or marvel at a magician. Sip champagne in an intimate lounge, after viewing the champagne waterfall in the Atrium.

Or simply take a stroll on deck. The night is yours.

Princess Cruises Voyages

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when lady luck is a Princess ÂŽ

An onboard casino that has it all? You bet.

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THERE’S A THRILL before the spin of the wheel, the turn of a card. When everything is possible and anything can happen.

Your ship’s casino is a playground for adults, fun with your favorite games of chance. Try to keep a hot streak going at the tables.

Press your luck at slots and maybe even a slot tournament. Give the lottery a go, and join a lively game of bingo.

It all happens here, in a place where the dazzle of Vegas meets the elegant ambiance of Princess to create one of the finest casinos at sea. Come play with us.

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Music, dance & a little

magic Embark on a journey to another time and place without leaving your seat. That’s the magic of our production shows.

Perhaps it’s the lavish stage sets. The stirring scores. The Broadway-caliber singers and dancers. Or the fact that each musical production was created just for you, including new shows from Stephen Schwartz, award-winning composer of Wicked and Godspell.

Your voyage features several different productions, detailed each day for you in your Princess Patter and Princess@Sea. The magic awaits.

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welcome to the circle Revel in the benefits of the best loyalty program at sea, whether this is your first cruise with us or your one-hundredth.

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GOLD MEMBERS After your 1st completed cruise • Special Launch Savings • Reduced Deposit • Preferential pricing offers • Circle CenterSM Online - StandBy Program - Refer-a-Friend - Circle Savings AccountSM • Circle Magazine • Access to a Circle Host on board • Members-only onboard events • Princess Passport • Gold Member Pin

RUBY MEMBERS Ruby Members get all Gold Member benefits plus the Ruby benefits.

From your 4th–5th cruise, or 31­–50 cruise days • Exclusive shoreside access to the Captain’s Circle Help Desk phone line • Upgrade to Princess Platinum Vacation Protection - Double benefits for Accident & Sickness Medical Expense and Baggage/Personal Effects coverage - Increases Special Cancellation Credit Feature to 100% • 10% discount off the purchase of our Reflections DVD on board • Ruby Member Pin

PLATINUM MEMBERS Platinum Members get all Ruby Member benefits plus the Platinum benefits.

IT FEELS GOOD to be part of an inner circle. Sail with us once, and you join the Princess Cruises® Captain’s Circle.SM As a member of our favorite group, you have access to a world of benefits. Exclusive onboard events. Special offers. A reduced deposit. And that’s only the beginning.

Higher levels enjoy even bigger perks, from Priority Check-In to Internet credit.

Plus our most-traveled guests attend an affair hosted by senior officers with commemorative gifts for that sailing’s top three most frequent cruisers.

Review the list here to see why Captain’s Circle is the best loyalty program at sea, and seek out the Circle Host on your ship to answer any questions you have about the loyalty program. Be sure to use your special Captain’s Circle Member Number each time you book a cruise to take advantage of all your benefits.

Thanks for being in our inner Circle.

NOTE: Captain’s Circle Benefits are subject to the terms and conditions of the Captain’s Circle Program. Please visit princess.com or your Captain’s Circle Host on board to review the full terms of the program and to obtain further details on member benefits.

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From your 6th-15th cruise, or 51-150 cruise days • Complimentary Internet Package • Priority check-in at Embarkation • Platinum Disembarkation Lounge • Complimentary Cruise Atlas • Platinum Member Pin

ELITE MEMBERS Elite Members get all Platinum Member benefits plus the Elite benefits.

From your 16th cruise on, or 151+ cruise days • Advance 24-hour access to preview and book new itineraries • Complimentary shoe polishing, laundry and professional cleaning services • Priority ship-to-shore tender embarkation • Priority disembarkation • 10% discount in the Shops of Princess • Complimentary Grapevine Wine Tasting • Complimentary mini-bar setup • Complimentary canapés on formal nights (upon request) • Upgraded stateroom amenities • Traditional afternoon tea in stateroom (upon request) • Elite Member Pin Princess Cruises Voyages

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s et your s ig ht s on yo u r n e x t c r ui s e Turn your dreams of another vacation into reality when you book your next cruise on board with a Future Cruise Consultant. Enjoy up to $300 to spend on board your next cruise when you make a low, refundable deposit, even if you don’t know where you want to sail next.

AN EXCLUSIVE OFFER for our onboard guests: Either book a cruise or place a refundable deposit of only $100 per person to receive up to $300 FREE onboard spending money for your next cruise.

If you aren’t sure where you want to go, you can pay now and choose the cruise later.

With a Future Cruise Deposit, you have two years to select one of the over 150 itineraries we offer. Visit your Future Cruise Consultant for details, and make plans before your sailing ends.

Cruise length

Stateroom type

Free onboard spending money

3-6 days

Interior/Oceanview Balcony/Mini/Suites

$15 $25

7-10 days

Interior/Oceanview Balcony/Mini/Suites

$25 $50

11-16 days

Interior/Oceanview Balcony/Mini/Suites

$75 $100

17-44 days

Interior/Oceanview Balcony/Mini/Suites

$125 $150

C heck the Princess Patter or Princess@Sea daily for office hours and location. Deposits and onboard spending money are per person per deposit per booking, based on double occupancy. Future Cruise Deposits will be automatically refunded if not applied to a new booking within two years from date of purchase. Onboard spending money applies to the holder of the Future Cruise Deposit only, and is not applicable to upper berth guests. Onboard spending money is non refundable and may only be used on a single voyage and expires at the end of that voyage. For cruises 45 days or more, the reduced deposit and onboard spending money do not apply. The reduced deposit requirement for these bookings may vary based on booking dates, and a fare discount of 3% is provided. Future Cruise Deposits are available in the same currency as your booking. See the onboard Future Cruise Consultant for details.

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digital daily events with princess@sea!

Princess@Sea is your FREE mobile-friendly connection to ship events, information, account details and access to purchase Internet plans. Connecting is as easy as 1-2-3!

your device 1 turn on airplane mode

2 connect to the ship’s wifi open your web browser and

3 visit onboard.princess.com

*Internet access via satellite is significantly slower than high-speed connections on shore. Princess Cruises reserves the right to block or filter certain high bandwidth activities such as adult sites, file sharing, VPN, and video streaming. Internet and communications services are not guaranteed to be available at all times due to the nature of satellite communications, which are subject to itinerary and possible disruption from weather and various obstructions. Princess Cruises is not responsible for any content transmitted via the Internet, nor does it guarantee privacy or data security. Please note that plans support only one device at a time.

Princess Cruises Voyages

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The Angelika Ring

The Infinity Ring

Commemorate your cruise with our signature TrueBlueÂŽ, Vivid Brown & Vogue Black diamond collections, renowned for using only the most sought-after colored diamonds.

TrueLove Diamonds An Exclusive Boutique

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Blue Diamond Authorized Retailer

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f a s hio n a bl y c o n s c iou s Jewelry brands that make sustainable luxury a lasting trend.

By Iliana Soto

ALEX AND ANI Between countless hours in the office, keeping up with ever-changing trends and all the unexpected happenings that we call life, finding a way to support your values and stand up for the causes that truly matter hasn’t always been an obtainable endeavor.

Luckily, with the rising tide of progressive businesses and organizations, it’s easier than ever to back up the causes that truly matter to you.

And with brands like these creating high-quality, stylish and guilt-free goods, you’ll find that your accessories now speak to more than just your phenomenal fashion sense.

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Unabashedly You

A great accessory seamlessly completes your look, adding flair and personalization in just the right quantity. An even greater accessory does so while giving back to the causes that you feel passionate about. Enter Alex and Ani. Their signature Expandable Wire Charm Bangles expand to fit virtually any wrist size and any cause, incorporating powerful symbolism and personal meaning, which allows you to represent the details that are uniquely and authentically you while supporting a humanitarian company that is passionate about the well-being of our planet, our communities and our individual paths.

So whether you simply want to support a fantastic fashion sense, eco-consciousness, humanitarianism or self-empowerment, you’ll find the perfect piece that speaks to you.

Princess Cruises Voyages

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KORITE

Positively Lovely

Korite ammolite is revered by feng shui masters as the most influential stone of the millennium, with many believing the stone absorbs positive cosmic energy from the earth and universe.

Thanks to Korite’s award-winning reclamation efforts, there’s even more goodness for this ethically-mined stone to absorb. The company’s dedication to preserving the landscape and restoring the excavation area to its natural state has set new environmental standards in the ammolite mining and reclamation process. Korite works closely with environmental officials to ensure that the land is not just restored to its natural state, but also improved, carefully layering the soil and native grasses in the order in which they were removed. Whether it’s the universe’s cosmic energy or Korite’s environmental efforts, this is one stone that’s full of positive vibes.

JOHN HARDY

Across the Board

When it comes to ethical and responsible practices, John Hardy takes on a multifaceted approach. As part of their commitment to sustainability, John Hardy uses 100 percent reclaimed gold, silver and ethically sourced gemstones in their Bali-inspired designs. Additionally, for each purchase from their Bamboo Collection, a select number of bamboo seedlings are planted, resulting in over one million planted seedlings to date. Supporting the local community and artisans is another cause that’s near and dear to John Hardy, this is evident through their “Jobs for Life” program, which ensures the unique jewelry-making tradition is passed on through the generations, while staying true to the authentic techniques of the Balinese royal courts.

But John Hardy doesn’t just hold themselves up to these high standards, they also require that all their business partners follow suit.

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Tanzanite earrings.

All featured pieces

by Safi Kilima Tanzanite.

Large pear-shaped tanzanite and diamond pendant.

Oval Infinity tanzanite bolo bracelet.

the year of tanzanite A Coveted Gem Comes Into Its Own.

By Julie Ceritelli

Look through the latest fashion magazines and you will find that tanzanite’s rich blue hues are making quite a statement on the fashion runways and the red carpet.

First discovered in 1967, tanzanite is said to be rarer than diamonds because it is mined in only one place on earth: beneath the foothills of Mt. Kilimanjaro in East Africa. So, that is exactly where Diamonds International went to source these rare gems for its exclusive Safi Kilima Tanzanite collections.

Marquis-shaped tanzanite and diamond ring.

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In the 50 years since then, designers at Safi Kilima Tanzanite have created innovative pieces that continue to set the standard in the jewelry industry. Safi Kilima Tanzanite declared 2017 #TheYearofSafi in honor of the 50th anniversary of the gemstone tanzanite and introduced several new pieces to help commemorate the occasion. They include the “Forget Me Not” collection featuring Alaska’s official state flower,a unique memento of a visit to the 49th state.

Morris Gad, CEO of Diamonds International, will be featured in an upcoming episode of Modern Living with Kathy Ireland®. The Safi Kilima Tanzanite collection was the focus of conversation whereby Gad, world-renowned business mogul, and Ireland, model of a superbrand, enthusiastically expressed how captivating these rare stones are. “The color is stunning, it’s so rich,” said Ireland.

To make these rare gems more accessible, Diamonds International has expanded the Safi Kilima Tanzanite collection to include an assortment of budget-friendly designs. The Safi Kilima Tanzanite bolo bracelet — with its easy to use adjustable closure — has quickly found a following and become a best seller.

Stay on top of the trend by including magnificent tanzanite jewelry that will add a pop of color and a subtle elegance to your overall look. All you need is a bit of tanzanite to be fashion-runway ready, no matter where you’re going.

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If it can survive being ejected from a plane, it can survive near enough anything.

Should you treat your Bremont MB watch with respect?

Not really. We don’t.

We freeze it, we bake it, and we shake it.

For hours on end.

Then we shoot it out of a plane. Just to make sure it’s as tough as we claim it is.

What’s more, it has been assembled and tested at our headquarters in Henley-on-Thames.

So don’t worry about looking after a Bremont MB. It can look after itself.

MBII

British Engineering.

Tested Beyond Endurance.

DIAMONDS INTERNATIONAL JUNEAU | KETCHIKAN | SKAGWAY

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The Crown Regal Collection

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That’s Beautiful

Exclusively at

Alaska • Car ibbean • Mexico

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Danyal Paraiba Paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring in 18-karat white gold.

Gone are the days when the traditional ring finger was the only place you’d find a lone sparkler.

Nowadays it’s the more, the merrier. Hands complete with stacked midi rings, cuffs and chains are all the rage — and all fingers are fair game! Just check out your favorite fashion magazine and celebrity pics and you’ll find that everyone is enjoying this fun and stylish trend that combines two or more rings together on a single finger and on multiple fingers.

Hearts on Fire Bezel regal triple ring.

Messika Glam’Azone chain-linked diamond ring in 1 8-karat white gold.

Lulu Frost CODE number rings in 14-karat gold.

hand candy One ring to rule them all? Nope. The more, the merrier.

By Julie Ceritelli

UNOde50 Anubis ring.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF BRANDS.

Swarovski Hilly rings.

By combining pieces in various ways, you can play up your mood or perfectly finish off an ensemble. Try mixing it up with colors and textures. Think thin bands in multiple finishes for a subtle but impactful stacked piece.

Monica Vinader Signature wide ring.

UNOde50 Swagy ring.

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Consider mixing a thicker cuff ring with smaller bands to bring new dimension to your style. Sprinkle in a few diamonds and gemstones to accentuate the personality of each combination. But use all your fingers to pull off the look. Pinkies, pointers and thumbs are all prime placements — even midi rings that sit above the lower knuckle. It’s a whole new game for hand candy; time to dig in and enjoy!

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H E A R T S O N F I R E S T O R E S , A U T H O R I Z E D R E TA I L E R S , H E A R T S O N F I R E . C O M

AVAILABLE AT: BLUE DIAMOND Juneau: 495 South Franklin Street, Juneau, AK | 907.523.5683 Ketchikan: 400 Mission Street, Ketchikan, AK | 907.225.1880 www.bluediamondgems.com

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Hearts On Fire Optima Station Necklace Understated while still eye-catching with subtle diamonds spaced throughout the chain, this necklace can be worn alone or layered with other styles. A true classic.

bright looks

Camilla Split Shank Ring This beautiful engagement ring features a stylish split shank band leading up to a brilliant, round center diamond. A ring dazzling with elegance and modern appeal, this design is perfect for the trendsetting woman.

Delicate links and spirited colors make these simply irresistible.

TrueLove Pendant, Earrings and Ring Elegantly designed and skillfully created, the TrueLoveÂŽ Diamond collection embodies the innocence, beauty and divinity of true love. The design and creativity found in each piece is unmatched and, undeniably, the greatest gift of all.

Le Vian Rings To be worthy of the Le Vian Chocolate DiamondsÂŽ name, a diamond must meet rigorous specifications in color, cut and clarity. Only the finest natural color brown diamonds are used to create a delectable assortment of trendsetting designs.

Roberto Coin Earrings & Bracelet With an unmistakable mark of identity and uniqueness, the Roberto Coin collections transfer the most varied experiences, dreams and perspectives into jewels. Each piece is the result of a journey among different cultures and multi-ethnic influences.

Diamonds International Tanzanite and Colored Stone Earrings Artfully arranged gemstones that blossom with color.

Stacked Rings Vibrant yet delicate, these gemstone bands are perfect when worn alone and show-stopping when you stack them up!

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Enjoy Cariloha’s Softest Bedding on the Planet™, Made of Viscose from Bamboo.

visit us in juneau • ketchikan CARIBBEAN • MEXICO • ALASKA • HAWAII • CONTINENTAL U.S. ...AND GROWING!

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PHILIP STEIN The Modern Collection Strike a perfect balance between sophistication and contemporary craftsmanship. Each timepiece houses a unique Natural Frequency Technology that can improve your overall well-being.

watch out

See how form, function and fashion come together in a lasting timepiece.

ZENITH El Primero Range Rover Velar A tribute to its partnership with Land Rover / Range Rover, this member of the Chronomaster collection effortlessly houses an adventurous spirit within an elegant design.

BREMONT Women’s SOLO Watch in Red Inspired by the classic pilot watches from the 1940s, the Solo collection was designed for beauty and legibility. It’s an obvious choice for anyone interested in the allure of mechanical watches.

BREMONT Men’s Airco A handsome range of slim pilot watches brings a new kind of refinement to Bremont’s aviation-inspired Airco collection.

WOLF Watch Winders Choose a luxury watch winder that complements your style as it preserves your timepiece. These handmade winders work with all automatic watches, vintage or new, with patented technology for the perfect wind.

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The Crown Unity ® Collection Together, Forever.

That’s Beautiful

Exclusively at

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FENDI Selleria Collection Keep your look unique with interchangeable fashion straps.

FENDI Crazy Carats Admired for its rotating diamonds and gemstones, this colorful collection brightness up any look.

f a c e t im e

HUBLOT

Watches that are recognized for their artistry and design.

Ferrari Unico Magic Gold Hublot’s craftsmanship and Ferrari’s adrenaline-infused aesthetics deliver a timepiece that won’t be overlooked.

SHINOLA The Runwell An eye-catching midnight blue dial and natural leather strap give this handsome watch an irresistibly classic appeal.

HUBLOT One Click Italia Independent Sparkling diamonds accentuate a luxe velvet face and matching wristband for a purely indulgent look, available in deep blue, blue and purple.

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That’s Beautiful

Exclusively at

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RARE/re r/: Adjective: not common, very unusual; Marked by unusual quality, merit or appeal.

Take a look at the brightest blue glaciers and you will begin to know the color of Paraiba Tourmaline, except Paraiba is this color made doubly intense. Described by experts as “neon” or “electric”, the blue of Paraiba Tourmaline is unlike anything you’ve probably seen before. Is there any point in trying to show a gemstone so unbelievably blue that a camera can’t capture its intensity and a printing press can’t recreate its depth?

A stone so remarkably blue that it can’t be shown on paper?

Well then, it looks like you’ll have to come and see these amazing gemstones in person.

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brand

finder Juneau

Ketchikan

Skagway

Blue Diamond

Blue Diamond

Diamonds International Watch & Design

Fendi Timepieces Hearts On Fire Mark Henry Orocal Gold Quartz Philip Stein Shinola TrueLove Diamonds

Diamonds International Watch & Design Hublot Kabana Korite Zenith

Diamonds International Bremont Crown of Light Day2Night Fendi Timepieces Forevermark Gift John Hardy Kabana Korite Philip Stein Safi Kilima

Jewelers International

Alaska Inside Passage Watch

Milano Diamond Gallery Le Vian

Tanzanite International Crown of Light Day2Night Gift Kabana Korite Safi Kilima

TrueLove Diamond Boutique TrueLove Diamonds

Bomberg Danyal Paraiba Fendi Timepieces Hearts On Fire Mark Henry Philip Stein Shinola TrueLove Diamonds

Diamonds International Watch & Design Crown of Light Hublot Kabana Korite Safi Kilima Zenith

Diamonds International Bremont Crown of Light Day2Night Fendi Timepieces Forevermark Gift John Hardy Kabana Korite Philip Stein Safi Kilima

Julie’s Fine Jewelry Alex & Ani Orocal Gold Quartz Shinola

Crown of Light Fendi Hublot Kabana Korite Safi Kilima

Diamonds International Bremont Crown of Light Day2Night Fendi Timepieces Forevermark Gift John Hardy Kabana Korite Philip Stein Safi Kilima

Milano Diamond Gallery Shinola Philip Stein Le Vian

Tanzanite International Crown of Light Day2Night Gift Kabana Korite Safi Kilima

Milano Diamond Gallery Le Vian

Monarch

Alex & Ani Le Vian® Mark Henry Alexandrite Oro Trevi Diamond Omega TrueLove Diamonds

Alex & Ani

“Places We Love” Bangle

Sam's Fine Jewelry

Alaska Inside Passage Watch

Tanzanite International Crown of Light Day2Night Gift

TrueLove Diamond Boutique TrueLove Diamonds

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VIVIDLY BRILLIANT Blue Sapphire, Fancy Yellow & Colourless Diamonds

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have a per f ec t day

Bring your Shopping Spotlight newsletter into port. Tuck it into your purse or pocket and put the port at your fingertips.

CAN BALCIOGLU/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Your Shopping Spotlight newsletter will be delivered to your stateroom each night. Make sure to take it with you into port. You can also see your Princess Shopping Host for more specific information. The host’s desk hours are listed in your Princess Patter.

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local spotlight Symbols of Alaska to take home and treasure.

Gold jewelry.

Claim your own piece of Alaska with a souvenir version of the state’s emblems. Look for a list of local retailers in the Juneau, Ketchikan and Skagway port of call sections.

Gold The buzz started sometime after the U.S. purchase of Alaska in 1867. All-out gold fever finally struck in the 1880s. The precious metal was found in Juneau, on the Klondike River and on the beaches of Nome. Prospectors rushed to Alaska to find their own fortunes.

Knives Hunters and other outdoor ent hu sia s t s r ely on t hei r k n ives ’ sharpness, but beauty also counts for at least one: the ulu (OO-loo) knife. It has been used for thousands of years, serving as a multipurpose blade used for everything from skinning animals to trimming blocks of ice to build igloos. The original ulu had a bone, ivory or wood handle, often embellished with distinctive marks carved by the knife’s creator.

Masks Inuit masks are ranked among the finest tribal art in the world, traditionally worn by dancers in religious ceremonies

honoring the spirits of birds or animals that are hunted or need to be appeased.

The Tlingit and other coastal tribes produce transformation masks with several faces concealed within a single face, while the Aleuts create bone masks worn at burials that are broken and thrown away after completion of the funeral rites.

Ulu knives.

Sa lmon Ma ny of A la sk a’s Nat ive communities rely on salmon as a food and an economic source, and the rest of the world has caught up to them. Salmon is an excellent source of omega-3 oils, the “good” fats. Alaska salmon is sold fresh as whole fish, steaks and fillets, as well as preserved in cans.

Reindeer fur.

Totem Poles A traditional art form among Natives of Southeast Alaska, totem poles reflect ancestral pride by depicting the lives and history of the people who create them. They are carved out of huge cedar trees and often display carvings of animals found in the region, such as eagles, ravens, frogs, bears, wolves and whales. After they are erected, totem poles stand as long as nature permits, typically 50 or 60 years. When the pole eventually falls to the ground, it is left to decay or is used for firewood.

Mouthwatering salmon.

See our guide to the distinctive creations that make Alaska so exceptional.

Detail of a totem pole.

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Inuit mask.

PHOTOS BY: ONSUDA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; BMJ/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; SETHISLAV/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; GEORGE BURBA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; ANDREA IZZOTTI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; JOSHUA RESNICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Fur Most people think of the Gold Rush when they think of Alaska, but the region’s first hot commodity was fur.

Russian traders and Native hunters had their most profitable relationship in the early to mid-1800s.

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By Christine Blank

Shaped by massive glaciers millions of years ago, Alaska’s Inside Passage is truly one of the most scenic spots in the world, offering stunning views of dense forests, towering mountains, cascading waterfalls and majestic wildlife that includes whales, sea lions, bears and bald eagles.

Seals hanging out on the rocks along the shore.

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A view from the Lynn Canal, part of the scenic Inside Passage.

As you travel through the Inside Passage, wh ic h s t retc hes f rom P uget Sou nd , Washington, to the Gulf of Alaska, the scenery constantly changes. The route includes nearly 1,000 tiny islands and passes by serene shorelines that give way to massive walls of forested mountains, sparkling rivers and dazzling glaciers.

When disembarking at port cities — including British-influenced Victoria, BC, in Canada, as well as Skagway, Ketchikan and Juneau — you’ll have the opportunity to explore the spectacular sites further inland.

Highlights include landlocked glaciers such as the half-mile-wide Mendenhall Glacier, botanical gardens, national parks, historic totem poles and myriad natural wonders — all alongside modern cities filled with shopping and attractions.

Natives, including the Haida, Tlingit and Tsimshian, first settled this gorgeous region hundreds of years ago. They often used the area as a summer fishing camp.

However, they weren’t the only early settlers in the area. By 1741, Russian explorers, led by Vitus Bering, discovered the Inside Passage for themselves.

Russian pioneers built and sailed ships, farmed, fished, logged, mined, whaled and operated sawmills, but the main draw was the

PHOTOS BY: MISHELLA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; CALEB FOSTER/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

c r ui s in g t h e in s i d e passage

fur trade. Russian hunters quickly realized that the wide variety of animals in the region produced valuable furs that they could trade with Chinese merchants for silk, spices and tea. Between 1743 and 1799, more than 100 Russian fur-hunting expeditions sailed into Alaskan waters, returning with 187,000 pelts worth more than $6 million, a hefty sum at the time. At first, they hired Natives as experienced hunters and guides, but before long, the Russians began enslaving the indigenous population, especially the Aleuts.

In the end, the Natives revolted against their unjust treatment and won their freedom back.

Today, all along the Inside Passage, you can see many examples of Russian culture.

The original Russian settlers left behind beautiful cathedrals such as St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral in Sitka, as well as historic sawmills, canneries and other buildings left over from this era.

Native populations maintain a strong presence in the Inside Passage, having a direct influence on the culture of a region many still call home. They have also continued the tradition of crafting stunning totem poles, including some of the largest and oldest collections of totems in the world at Potlatch Totem Park in Ketchikan and Sitka National Historic Park.

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By Jonathan Siskin

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d e n ali n a t io n al p ar k

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ABOVE: An aerial view of the park.

OPPOSITE: A park resident.

North America’s highest point was The High One, or The Great One, to the Athabascan Native tribes who were Alaska’s first inhabitants. But Denali is much more than the name given to the crown of the 600-mile Alaska Range. It’s also the name of the vast national park and preserve that is the quintessential Alaskan interior experience.

THIS IMMENSE PRESERVED and protect-

ed area started with about 2 million acres in 1917 as Mount McKinley National Park, named for thenU.S. Representative (and later President) William McKinley. In 1980, park boundaries were enlarged by 4 million acres and the name was changed to Denali National Park & Preserve; the highest peak continued to be called Mount McKinley until 2015, when the U.S. Department of the Interior officially changed its name back to Denali. At its current 6 million acres, the park is larger than the entire state of Massachusetts.

The park and its surroundings came into being largely due to the work of two men: Charles Sheldon,

a conservationist, naturalist and hunter; and guide Harry Karstens, with whom, between 1906 and 1908, Sheldon explored the region that would eventually become the park. Sheldon got the park established after working diligently for a decade, while Karstens went on to make the first ascent of Denali and become the park’s first superintendent.

As it did then, the Denali experience involves more than getting a glimpse of the mountain. In fact, many visitors never even get to see it, for it's “out” from the clouds only one in three days, on average. But with so much else to see and do, a sighting of the peak is just one of the many jewels in the Denali crown.

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there are still more than 650 unique species of flowering plants and dozens of species of moss, lichen, algae and more along the valleys and slopes of the park.

The Wildlife Many visitors remember their wildlife viewing long after seeing (or not seeing) Denali. Quite simply, the sheer variety and uniqueness of the wildlife here make each trip into the park special.

From spring to fall, wildlife viewing in Denali is simply spectacular. Just listing them here doesn’t do the experience justice, but a trip can include grizzly bear (and cubs), moose, caribou, wolves and Dall sheep. In fact, these animals are known as the “Big Five” of Denali wildlife viewing, and any visit that includes all of them is considered a big-time success.

Wolves, which usually travel in packs, are rarely seen. Park rangers concur that a wolf-spotting makes a park visit even more special.

Smaller animals often seen during a Denali visit include red squirrels, ground squirrels, porcupines, beavers, hoar y

marmots, weasels and snowshoe hares.

More than 35 different mammal species live in the park and preserve.

At around 160 species, the bird life is also incredibly varied; bird-watchers travel thousands of miles to Denali in order to add to their bucket lists. The possibilities include ptarmigans, Lapland longspurs, owls, eagles and other raptors. Many birds travel phenomenal distances to spend the summer in Alaska, including wheatears f rom A f r ica a nd A rc t ic ter n s f rom Antarctica and southern South America.

Seeing It All Visitors can choose from many different ways to explore the Denali area. From a simple hike in the shadow of Denali to a helicopter tour of the area, from river rafting to naturalist-led activities, the possibilities seem as infinite as Denali’s landscape and wildlife.

PHOTOS BY: (HELICOPTER) LEHVIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (WOLVES) JKLINGEBIEL/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The Landscape It all star ts with the incredibly beautiful and diverse scenery.

Sitting below the peaks of the Denali massif is a land of rivers and landscape unmatched in North America.

Situated about 240 miles nor th of Anchorage and less than half that distance south of Fairbanks, Denali National Park spreads to the west of bustling George Parks Highway and into a wilderness rarely matched in the world.

Denali is an ever-present part of the landscape. Its height of 20,310 feet makes it one of the Seven Summits, the highest peaks on the world’s continents. The formation of this majestic mountain and the rest of the Alaska Range began tens of millions of years ago, thanks to a massive collision of two tectonic plates. Today, more than 75 percent of the mountain is covered in snowfall and glaciers year-round, and conditions are virtually always harsh.

Below Denali and the other towering mountains, the plant life of the park has adapted over thousands of years to the quite-cold winters and short summers. But

ABOVE: Denali viewed from a helicopter. LEFT: A wolf sighting.

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DOESN’T CARE HOW MANY STEPS YOU’VE TAKEN TODAY. THE BE D ROCK AS S EMB LED BY S TRONG A ND B E AU TIFUL A MERICA N H A NDS W ITH U. S . A ND IMP ORTED PA RTS .

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glacier bay Rugged landscapes and abundant wildlife make it one of the most unforgettable parts of a journey to this spectacular land.

By John Anderson

Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve west of Juneau on the Alaska panhandle, brace yourself for astonishing beauty.

Spanning 3.3 million acres, the park is a high point for travelers to the state’s Inside Passage, with stunning ice-carved fjords, towering peaks etched into the landscape and deep channel waters teeming with marine life.

Those sights alone would make Glacier Bay a standout in Alaska’s vast park system, yet they are surpassed by the enormous icy walls of tidewater

A panoramic view of Margerie Glacier in Glacier Bay National Park.

OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: A park ranger; sea lions perched on rocks in the bay.

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and terrestrial glaciers that can be viewed up-close from the deck of a passing ship. The park’s more than 50 named glaciers, including seven tidewater glaciers, cover more than 27 percent of the park and have continued to advance and recede since first documented by explorers in the late 1700s.

It’s common for tidewater glaciers to calve, a dramatic scene to witness as massive slabs of glacial ice crash into the bay waters. The impressive Margerie Glacier is an especially popular attraction, advancing into the bay as much as 14 feet per day, leading

PHOTOS BY: JO ANN SNOVER / (SEALS) GRAHAM R PRENTICE (KAYAK) MINTIMAGES / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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to frequent calving. Other active high tidewater glaciers include Reid Glacier, Riggs Glacier and North Crillon Glacier.

Visitors are also captivated by the park’s abundant wildlife. Follow the transition up the 65-mile channel from the lush rainforests of the lower bay, to the iceand rock-covered landscape of the upper bay. Keep a lookout for black bear prowling at the forest shore, brown bear crossing atop glaciers or moose treading across a narrow inlet. In the upper bay, white-coated mountain goats can be spotted hopping along rocky ledges in search of shrubs and grasses.

The rich waters of the bay support a wealth of marine life as well. Gray dappled harbor seals are often seen resting atop ice floes or congregating in Johns Hopkins Inlet during the summer mating and pupping season, while curious Stellar sea lions gracefully flit through the chilly waters. Most thrilling of all is the sight of a breaching 35-ton humpback whale, which summer in the bay while gorging on herring or krill.

Information and stories of Glacier Bay’s fascinating natural scenery are brought to life on board by park rangers who join the cruise before the ship embarks.

Guests learn compelling details about the park’s ecosystem, wildlife and ongoing conservation, while

gaining a deeper understanding of the incredible glaciers, mountains and other sights enjoyed from deck. Knowing where to look and what you’re seeing can help enrich your Glacier Bay experience.

Ask the ranger about the interesting history of Glacier Bay, which starts with the Tlingit people who fished and hunted among the glaciers for untold generations. French naval officer and explorer La Perouse first visited the area in 1786, while an expedition by Captain George Vancouver in 1794 found Glacier Bay almost completely covered by a single enormous tidewater glacier. Some 85 years later, in 1879, naturalist John Muir explored the region by canoe and reported the ice had retreated more than 30 miles, opening up the bay. His inspired writings describing Glacier Bay helped change the country’s perception of Alaska, which eventually led to the park’s original protection as a national monument in 1925

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where the w ild t hin g s roam

RIGHT: A grizzly bear in a snowy meadow.

OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: A bald eagle catching a fish; a young moose grazing on grass.

By Lauramay LaChance

Soaring Through the Sky Bald eagles, the national bird of the United States, are far more abundant in Alaska than anywhere else in the country. It’s nearly impossible to cruise to Alaska and not see one of these fierce birds of prey, with its distinctive white head and gigantic wingspan of up to 7 feet. Watch for the white “snowball” of the eagle’s head in the tops of the trees. Once you learn to spot them, you tend to recognize them everywhere.

“During the peak of salmon spawning season, bald eagles feed in droves of sometimes 50 or more out over the inlets,” says Michele Morris, an onboard naturalist.

Bear Spotting Bears, both brown and black, are typically solitary animals. Grizzly bears, the mainland subspecies of brown bears, are much larger than their black bear cousins, weighing between 500 and 900 pounds and having a more prominent hump on their shoulders. Black bears, despite their name, can range in color from a sandy blond to an almost bluish shade of gray and weigh between 200 – 500 pounds.

Black bears tend to live in dense forests, and there are about 100,000 black bears throughout the state. Grizzly bears typically live along Alaska’s southern coast, where they primarily feed on salmon. According to the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, there can be one grizzly bear per square mile in portions of southern Alaska, especially in areas with plentiful food sources.

Spotting bears is easier than you think. When you’re out on the ocean, look along the shoreline for shiny black rocks that stand out against the typical dull black rocks. Once you spot one, watch for any signs of movement. Typical boulders will appear dull, but a bear’s fur looks particularly oily, and that distinct sheen will stand out against the landscape. Once the salmon begin to swarm the rivers in late July through early September, many bears will move to the streams to feed.

Just keep in mind that bears are best when seen from a distance. If you are hiking in bear territory, especially along a river teeming with salmon, make your presence known. “If you do come across a bear, stand your ground, wave your arms in the air 96

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Grizzly bears have a better sense of smell than hound dogs and can detect food from miles away.

PHOTOS BY: (BEAR) DAWN WILSON PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (EAGLE) FLORIDASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (MOOSE) KRZYSZTOF WIKTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Alaska’s wildlife is unpredictable, captivating and raw, encompassing hundreds of species, ranging from determined salmon swimming up the rivers to spawn to the magnificent grizzlies roaming the untamed terrain in search of their next meal.

The dream of observing wildlife in its natural habitat is what lures many visitors to Alaska, a state bigger than Texas, California and Montana combined. Every moment is an opportunity to see rare animals in their natural environment.

Training your eyes to properly spot wildlife means knowing not just where to look, but how to tell the difference between the wild landscape and the wild animals.

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PHOTOS BY: (BEAR) DAWN WILSON PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (EAGLE) FLORIDASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (MOOSE) KRZYSZTOF WIKTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Bald eagles in Alaska have been documented living as long as 32 years.

and speak loudly,” says Dan Irelan, a park ranger for Denali National Park & Preserve. “I had a bear approach me as I was walking along a river. I stood my ground and eventually the big momma bear and her curious cubs turned around, leaving me with a racing heart and a good story to tell.”

Moose It’s a deer. It’s a horse. No, it’s a giant moose! Unlike many of Alaska’s wildlife, these iconic creatures don’t stick to the wilderness. Moose seem to appear when you least expect them, whether prancing through the parking lot as you’re hopping on a tour bus or simply standing in a small pond by the side of the road, sipping the cool water as cars pass by.

Alaska has anywhere from 175,000 to 200,000 of these long-legged mammals. They’re frequently seen in areas that have been recently affected by forest fires and along the major rivers of Southcentral and Interior Alaska.

Their sheer size is hard to appreciate from a distance. A bull (male) moose stands 7 feet tall at the shoulder and can weigh up to 1,600 pounds. If that’s not massive enough, the bulls can also grow an 80-pound antler rack in a single summer. That’s about 1 pound of bone growth a day. It’s quite impressive to see how gracefully they move throughout the forest, despite all that additional weight.

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Mountain Goats and Dall Sheep Agility and strength are a necessity for these all-white mountaineering ungulates (hooved animals) as they spend most of their time clambering through steep and rocky terrains.

Dall sheep and mountain goats look similar, but one look at their horns and you’ll know which is which: Dall sheep have ram-shaped horns that curve on the side of their head, while mountain goats flaunt pointed horns. Though they have comparable body shapes, Dall sheep can weigh up to 300 pounds.

Mountain goats weigh up to 380 pounds and often seem much bigger due to their long fur and fluffy beards.

Dall sheep climbing high in Denali National Park.

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Caribou and reindeer are the same species, but reindeer are usually privately owned and have some genetic differences.

PHOTOS BY: (SHEEP) CHRISTOPHER BOSWELL/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (CARIBOU) NANCYS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

A caribou bull in Denali National Park; in the background is Denali, the high mountain.

Caribou Caribou are one of the most recognized symbols of the great wild north. Much smaller than moose, caribou weigh between 175 and 400 pounds. They have the distinction of being the only member of the deer family whose males and females both grow antlers. They spend most of their time in the open country and have adapted to the cold, wind and snow of even the harshest Alaskan winters.

Caribou are difficult to spot even for wildlife peeping pros, but it’s possible with a keen eye and a little patience. In the summer, caribou spend most of their time in the remaining snow patches high on the mountains. Keep your binoculars handy while scanning the spines of the mountains. Allow your eyes to adjust and look for out-of-place silhouettes. You just might get a peek of the elusive caribou.

Peeping either of these two bovids will require a lot of neck bending, because these rugged climbers are high country dwellers. Dall sheep roam throughout every mountain range in Alaska. They tend to huddle in dry habitats in open alpine ridges, meadows and steep slopes. Mountain goats, on the other hand, are most frequently found in the southeast, where they feed low in the early summer and move higher as the snow melts. If Juneau is one of your ports of call, you’re in luck. Mountain goats were actually reintroduced to Mount Juneau in 1989 and have become a common sight since the early 2000s.

From afar, both mountain goats and Dall sheep look like small mounds of snow on the mountain, and you can easily miss them with the naked eye. Use binoculars to scan the cliffs, and you’ll realize that, yes, that mound of snow is in fact three Dall sheep resting, or a scruffy mountain goat browsing for food. If they seem to be moving swiftly up the mountain, pay careful attention as it might mean one of their predators, such as a wolf or coyote, is nearby.

Like No Place Else The rugged wilderness may seem daunting, but the creatures that have adapted to thrive under its extreme conditions are one of the many reasons Alaska has enthralled visitors for generations. As longtime ranger Irelan puts it, “The amazing and unusual aspects of the far north — the midnight sun, vast spaces and incredible mountain surroundings, winters of darkness and solitude, northern lights — each continue to inspire me. Even the feel of the forest and the air itself is almost indescribable.”

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ABOVE: A whale breaches the ocean’s surface off Juneau.

OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM TOP: A view of the port from the Gastineau Channel; a Princess ship takes in the view.

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quick guide Famed for: Whale-watching excursions into Stephens Passage and Lynn Canal, where humpbacks feed throughout the summer.

It’s a Fact: At 2,701 square miles, Juneau is the second-largest city by area in the U.S.; it’s larger than Delaware and Rhode Island.

PHOTOS BY: RUTH PETERKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; DARRYL BROOKS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Signature Souvenirs: Native ulu knife; glacier silt soap; walrus and mammoth ivory jewelry.

Besides being the state capital, Juneau is also the cultural and outdoor adventure hub of Alaska’s panhandle — the wild and watery stretch of islands, glaciers and rainforests along the southeast coast. Accessible only by sea or air (there are no roads to the mainland), the city is set along the beautiful Gastineau Channel at the foot of the towering Boundary Range mountains, their peaks protruding above massive ice fields.

The breathtaking scenery includes plenty of wildlife.

Breaching humpback whales that feast on herring and krill can be seen in Juneau’s bays. Bald eagles, great blue herons and ravens soar through the skies. And trails that fan out from the Mendenhall Glacier visitor center offer glimpses of black bear, beavers and mountain goats.

The city itself beckons visitors to stroll its compact downtown, with shops and attractions that offer insights into Juneau’s unique history and culture that date back to the rugged gold mining era of the late 1800s.

— John Anderson

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GASTINEAU CHANNEL

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No roads lead to Juneau. Since it’s surrounded by extremely rugged terrain, the only way to get to this gorgeous state capital is by air or sea. What’s so special about this remote urban center amid the wilderness? Plenty.

Way before Europeans claimed the area for their own, indigenous tribes had been inhabiting the area for millennia, favoring its great fishing. Even today, the Tlingit people, descendants of the original tribes with a rich artistic heritage, hold celebrations during spawning season.

Then came gold. Modern-day Juneau was founded in 1880, when prospectors Joe Juneau and Richard Harris found nuggets as large as “peas and beans.” Thus began a gold rush lasting decades.

Beyond this precious metal, the city is the launching point to unsurpassed hiking along the Mendenhall Glacier, a staggering leftover of the last Ice Age. Head to the Visitor Center for fantastic views, or get a bird’s-eye look at the region on an exhilarating helicopter ride up to hike this massive hunk of ice. Or stay grounded at Glacier Gardens, a rainforest paradise showcasing the region’s amazing flora and fauna, including its famous flower towers and the occasional bald eagle.

Crave some action? Try zip lining from treetop to treetop through the rainforest.

Or head further out into the wilderness at Tongass National Forest to spot brown and black bears, humpback whales, more bald eagles, black-tailed deer and so much more.

— Kelly Liszt

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400 Mission Street Ketchikan, AK, 99901 907.225.1880

495 South Franklin Street Juneau, AK, 99901 907.523.5683

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m e n d e n h all glacier Breathtaking scenery and amazing wildlife activity make a visit to this vast ice field unforgettable.

By Richard Carroll

An intrepid wind gusts across a timeless and icy landscape, releasing a flurry of intensely blue icebergs that carve off the facade of the mighty Mendenhall Glacier and splash into Mendenhall Lake, while misty veils of drifting clouds cast shadows across some of Alaska’s most captivating scenery. Tucked within the nearly 17-million-acre Tongass National Forest, the largest in the United States, the glacier stretches some 13 miles in length from the Juneau ice field. It offers visitors a surprising choice of activities and a photographic challenge to capture the surging power of the glacier as it erupts from the landscape with a brilliant gleam.

The historic U.S. Forest Service Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center was the first of its kind in the United States when it was built in 1962. Subsequent parks have emulated its architectural concept, floor-to-ceiling windows, expansive outdoor viewing areas and changing exhibits. It has outdoor viewing platforms overlooking Steep Creek and affording panoramic views of the glacier’s ever-changing 1.5-mile face. Here, one might see a meandering black bear below or a bald eagle drifting in the sky above. Interpretive programs and ranger talks, wide-ranging exhibits, an observatory with telescopes and a 15-minute film, Magnificent Mendenhall, offer an essential overview of the glacier, an awe-inspiring wonder of the natural world.

The rangers explain that Mendenhall is one of 38 major glaciers that extend from the 1,500-square-mile Juneau icefield.

The rapidly retreating glacier has uncovered vegetation thousands of years old, while the effects of the glacier’s movement can be seen in the radically changing landscape, which is remarkably similar to the deep U-shaped valleys of Yosemite and California’s towering Sierra Nevada mountains.

Mendenhall was originally named Auk Glacier by naturalist John Muir. In 1891 it was renamed in honor of Thomas Corwin Mendenhall, a famed scientist, inventor, physicist and meterologist who led a survey that determined the border between Alaska and Canada. Steps from the Visitor Center there is easy access to a selection of six trails for up-close glacier experiences.

Mendenhall Glacier is often reached by helicopter.

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FROM LEFT: Trekking across Mendenhall; a waterfall cascading through an ice cave inside the glacier.

Exploring the Glacier The 1.5-mile Moraine Ecology Trail leads into a mossy forest where visitors have watched a frustrated bear trying to hook a spawning sockeye salmon from an icy stream. The popular three-mile-long Nugget Creek Trail wanders to a tumbling 377-foot waterfall past patches of wildflowers searching for a gleam of sun and a landscape that has been ice-free for only 50 years or less.

For those in excellent shape with a strong sense of adventure, a trek on the glacier begins at the West Glacier Trailhead. Guests are outfitted with a backpack, glacier and rain gear, clampons, food and water and are led on a 2.75hour trek through a temperate rainforest and up a strenuous, unmaintained switchback trail to the ice, where the jagged mountain ridges appear close enough to touch. Retaining enough energy for the downward trek is essential, but there’s time to explore deep textured crevices, meltwater streams and possibly an ice cave. The fickle weather patterns add another dramatic dimension to a glacier trek. On a cloudcovered rainy day, the weather seems to close around the glacier in a timeless manifestation of frosty splendor.

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When time is of the essence, an alternative Mendenhall adventure begins with a 30-minute helicopter flight soaring to 7,000 feet before landing on the ice. Dress warmly and bring binoculars and camera, with a zoom lens if possible.

The 5,815-acre Mendenhall Recreation Area and the massive Tongass National Forest are arranged like a mammoth crossword puzzle, the glacier appearing like a large white blanket spread on the landscape to enhance the setting and set off the shimmering lake. Lake Mendenhall, created some 80 years ago when the glacier meltwater filled a severely eroded valley to over 200 feet deep, is ideal for family oriented river rafting tours. Guided trips take rafters over Class II and III whitewater rapids onto a lake sprinkled with icebergs and provide widely varying views of the glacier.

As the rangers in the Visitor Center say, any view of the glacier creates a long-lasting memory. Although Mendenhall is positioned just 12 miles from Juneau, a city that is only accessible via boat or aircraft, a trip here feels like an exotic adventure to the far reaches of the American continent.

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369 S.FRANKLIN STREET, JUNEAU, AK 99801

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A floatplane is a must for glacier travel.

feas t and f loat plane For a fresh taste of Alaska, there’s only one way to go.

By Ginger Dingus

Nothing says “Alaska” like freshly caught wild salmon. And one of the more intriguing places to sample the locally caught fish grilled on the outdoor barbeque is Taku Glacier Lodge. Hungry lodge visitors are in for another treat. Reaching this remote dining site involves an iconic Last Frontier must-do: riding in a floatplane over spectacular glaciers and snow-capped peaks.

During cruise season, floatplanes depart daily (weather permitting) from downtown Juneau piers. Once your plane lifts off the waters of the Gastineau Channel, be sure to check out the view of your cruise ship docked below. Within minutes, you’re flying 1,000 to 2,000 feet above the massive Juneau Icefield, observing multiple glaciers, including Taku Glacier, the area’s largest at roughly 35 miles long.

Floatplanes coast to a landing across from Taku Glacier, where you step into Taku Lodge, a log structure built as a fishing camp in 1923, to feast on a buffet of alderwoodgrilled salmon, baked beans, coleslaw, herb biscuits, ginger cookies and more. The drinks are chilled with glacier ice, but if you prefer a bit of heat, cozy up to a crackling fire in the stone fireplace decorated with a moose head and old fishing gear.

After savoring your meal, there’s time to watch the floatplanes arrive and depart, or to take a guided nature walk through the adjacent woodlands. If you’re lucky, you may spot a black bear or two. Less adventurous visitors can stop by the gift shop where four large bears of the stuffed toy kind regularly lounge around a table pretending to play cards.

To book a trip to Taku Lodge, see your onboard excursions specialist.

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210 Admiral Way Juneau, Alaska 99801 Next to the world famous Red Dog Saloon.

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Introducing an exclusive collection of masterfully crafted garments and accessories made of 100% luxurious Alpaca fiber.

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SPEC I A L A DV E RT ISI NG F E AT U R E

juneau from up above Goldbelt Mount Roberts Tramway

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Ride Southeast Alaska’s only aerial tramway! At 1,800 feet above sea level, the Goldbelt Mount Roberts Tramway treats you to Juneau’s stunning panorama.

From the Chilkat Range to Stephens Passage, the expansive views are a photographer’s dream. The short ride to 1,800 feet above sea level is a breathtaking way to see the Capital City, waterfront and surrounding mountains.

When you arrive at the Mountain House, enjoy dining with a view at the Timberline Bar & Grill, serving local seafood and a variety of dishes. Try our signature Crab Nachos, with locally brewed Alaskan Brewing beer. “Shop at the Top” in Raven Eagle Gifts & Gallery, where you’ll find something for everyone on your list. Raven Eagle features gifts, souvenirs, clothing and original, Alaska Native made art. Then, visit the Chilkat Theatre for our award-winning film on Tlingit history and culture, Seeing Daylight.

Outside the Mountain House, meet the Juneau Raptor Center’s education eagle and have a personal experience with one of America’s great birds. The Nature Center’s knowledgeable staff can provide information about the trails, wildlife and environment. Interactive displays entertain and educate all ages. On Mount Roberts, you can hike well-maintained rainforest and sub-alpine trails. Culturally modified trees are carved with traditional, historic images. Watch for songbirds, deer and marmots from the observation platforms. The interpretive signage and audio tour provides a wealth of information about the natural environment.

Indoors or out, there is something for all ages, interests, and abilities atop Mount Roberts!

The ADA accessible Goldbelt Mount Roberts Tramway runs every five minutes and tickets are good all day. Come and go at your leisure. See your Shore Excursion Desk for tickets!

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ALASKA FISH & CHIPS CO. ...at the flight deck Watch float planes take off from and land at this indoor/outdoor seafood bar serving a variety of fresh Alaska seafood. The specialty is Halibut & Chips, but you’ll also find fish tacos, reindeer sausage corndogs, salads and regional craft beer.

HANGAR ON THE WHARF PUB & GRILL Juneau’s favorite waterfront restaurant with the largest menu and best view in town. Featuring the finest Alaska seafood: king crab, halibut, salmon and chowder. Plus 125+ beers to go with salads, burgers, steaks and more!

PIER 49 SEAFOOD + BAR Pier 49 is Juneau’s newest waterfront restaurant! Join us for great eats, a full bar and a beer garden atmosphere. We serve a variety of Alaska seafood, burgers, brats and daily specials. Look for the huge outdoor deck along the seawalk.

TWISTED FISH COMPANY ALASKAN GRILL For the best in fresh Alaska seafood, look for the Twisted Fish near the Mt. Roberts Tram, offering incredible menu options, surf and turf, a vast wine selection, craft cocktails and casual waterfront dining.

Historic Merchants Wharf 2 Marine Way, Ste 124 (907) 723-2586 alaskafishandchips.com

Historic Merchants Wharf 2 Marine Way, Ste 106 (907)586-5018 hangaronthewharf.com

406 S Franklin Street www.pier49alaska.com

550 S Franklin Street (907) 463-5033 twistedfishcompany.com

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Juneau, Alaska

REPRESENTING OVER 60 ALASKAN ARTISTS

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FIND US IN THE GOLDEN YELLOW BUILDING

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SPOTLIGHT

JUNEAU Changing Tides

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JUNEAU ALASKA

ALASKA JUNEAU MINING COMPANY Visit one of Juneau’s largest and most unique gift stores. We offer a huge selection of apparel, gifts and souvenirs with prices to fit any budget. Be sure to take a photo of the pod of orca whales suspended above the store. Pictured: UNOde50 Fresh bracelet from the Ice Collection. Exclusively sold at Alaska Juneau Mining Co. & Juneau Trading Co. 425 S Franklin Street (907) 463-5595

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ALASKA KNIFEWORKS

ALASKA SHIRT COMPANY

Locally owned and operated for 18 years. EASY USPS Flat Rate shipping anywhere in the USA. This is not just another souvenir store; we have custom Alaska antler handle knives, hunting knives, pocket knives and top quality ulus. Don’t be fooled by the souvenirs, get the real thing at Alaska Knifeworks! Please come visit our expert staff inside Merchants Wharf on the downtown Port of Juneau waterfront.

Why did the tourist cross the road?

To get to Alaska Shirt Company, of course! No joke – we provide the best t-shirt and souvenir savings, styles and selection – all wrapped up in fun! (And seriously, we’re located right across the road from the Juneau Tram and Cruise Terminals.)

Inside Merchants Wharf 2 Marine Way Ste. 119 www.alaskaknifeworks.com

489 S Franklin Street (907) 586-9510 www.Shirtco.com

CHANGING TIDES FABRIC, QUILTING AND YARN GIFT SHOP A year-round local NeedleART shop located in the heart of historic downtown Juneau. Known for their great selection of Alaska fabrics, batiks, wool and yarn hand-dyed in Alaska. Barbara Lavallee’s quilt patterns, cross-stitch and fabric panels are designed in their Juneau studio. Also featuring kits and exclusive “Juneau” fabric, designed

by Alaskan artist Jon Van Zyle.

175 S Franklin Street Ste. 203 (907) 523-6084 changingtidesak@gmail.com

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• Juneau, Alaska •

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b r o w s in g t h r o u g h hi s t o r y South Franklin Street offers treasures to take home and nuggets of Juneau’s fascinating history.

By John Anderson

PHOTOS BY: SARAH CANNARD

As one of Juneau’s “can’t miss” attractions, South Franklin Street provides a well-preserved view into the past with some of the city’s oldest and most architecturally noteworthy buildings.

The main thoroughfare of shops, cafés and saloons is also easy to find, running along the lively waterfront where incoming ships dock and into the historic downtown district. Navigating South Franklin Street is a lesson in Juneau’s colorful history, found in the stories of the quaint buildings that date to the early 1900s and the city’s heyday as a mining hub.

Visitors can learn about this history by joining walking tours from Juneau-Douglas City Museum or Adventure Flow, complete with guide and audio, offering stories about the old buildings and the city’s early personalities. Included is the Alaskan Hotel from 1913, featuring a beautifully preserved barroom from the period, as well as the Alaska Steam Laundry Building from 1901 which now houses a café and shops. Or mosey past swinging doors and along sawdust floors at the historic Red Dog Saloon, where you can belly up to the bar under wagon wheel chandeliers and gawk at bear pelts, Wyatt Earp’s pistol and other curios adorning the walls.

South Franklin Street, Juneau.

Of course, a trip to South Franklin Street wouldn’t be complete without shopping at its many stores that feature an array of made-in-Alaska items. Stock up on the region’s most famous food – smoked salmon – caught and processed locally.

With a host of gold and silver mines in the state, jewelry is another popular item sold in shops along the street, including silver bracelets with totemic designs carved by artisans from local Native tribes. Totem poles and Native art can also be found on South Franklin, as well as soap made with glacial silt from nearby glaciers. And beer lovers can take home a taste of Alaska with ales and ambers brewed with local alder-smoked malts and Sitka spruce tips.

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PHOTOS BY: LARA SWIMMER

slam: juneau ’s new wonder Uncover Alaska’s colorful heritage at this expansive history museum.

By Ginger Dingus If you’re hoping to discover Alaska’s Russian heritage, mining history, Native culture and wildlife all in one place, think SLAM — the Andrew P. Kashevaroff State Library, Archives and Museum, or SLAM for short. Juneau residents simply call it the Alaska State Museum.

Juneau’s $139-million museum opened in 2016. The modern, 118,000-square-foot building occupies the site of the previous (1967) Alaska State Museum, torn down in 2014 to make way for the expanded SLAM. The Whittier Street location is an easy walk from cruise ship docks.

Entering the museum’s atrium lobby, visitors are greeted with the sight of a regal eagle and its chick (both real, but

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LEFT: Visitors take in the museum’s many historical artifacts telling Alaska’s story. RIGHT: Bristol Bay double-ender, a vessel used for salmon fishing.

mounted) perched atop a massive nest made of twigs. For a close-up look, climb the stairs to the second-floor balcony, also the best spot for an eagle’s-eye view of the wall-to-wall map of Alaska stretching across the floor below.

SLAM’s permanent displays represent Alaska’s 126 years under the Russian flag through religious icons, tools, weapons and documents. Of note is a rare bronze double-headed eagle medallion presented by Alexander Baranov, chief manager for the Russian American (fur trading) Company, as a peace offering to an Alaska Native leader at Sitka in the early 1800s. Items from the American period (1867 to today) showcase exploration, transportation and commerce. Exhibits include ship artifacts, gold rush memorabilia, whaling gear and aviation history.

Dozens of elaborate ceremonial headdresses and masks in the shape of birds, bears and whales highlight the galleries devoted to Alaska Native history. Displays of Alaska Native watercraft demonstrate how skin-covered kayaks and umiaqs are made and used. The extensive basket collection contains 5,000-year-old remnants of the oldest basketry found on the north Pacific coast.

Also featured are sculpture and painting by Alaskan artists, and natural history displays of local minerals, fossils, seashells and animals.

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PHOTOS BY: (HERO) RUTH PETERKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (BLACK/WHITE) ALITA BOBROV/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ketchikan

ABOVE: A floatplane takes off at Misty Fjords National Monument.

OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM TOP: A Tlingit totem pole; Princess sails into port.

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quick guide Famed for: Totem poles painstakingly carved by local artists, an important symbol of the native Tlingit tribe.

It’s a Fact: Rainfall averages 153 inches per year, though it’s just over 7 inches per month during the “dry” summer season.

PHOTOS BY: (HERO) RUTH PETERKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (BLACK/WHITE) ALITA BOBROV/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Signature Souvenirs: Native art; locally smoked salmon; wild huckleberry honey or jam.

As the southernmost port in the state, Ketchikan has long been the first Alaska stop for ships and ferries coming from the south. Set along the Tongass Narrows on the shores of mountainous Revillagigedo Island, much of the city seems on first approach to be floating on water, with several large marinas and numerous buildings sitting on piers and pilings.

Even a stroll down several of the town’s colorful streets takes you on a boardwalk over flowing Ketchikan Creek.

Water is a natural feature in the “Rain Capital of Alaska.”

Just to the east is the spectacular Misty Fjords National Monument, with deep channels that meander between steep, green-clad mountain cliffs. Dramatic waterfalls, glassy lakes and snow-capped peaks shrouded in foggy mist, along with regular wildlife sightings, are part of the enchanted scenery in the park. It’s one reason the native Tlingit people have proudly called the area home for millennia.

— John Anderson

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PIXACHI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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Ketchikan, known as the “First City,” is the initial port reached by marine ferries and cruise ships traveling from the south. And what an introduction to the area. Lush and dewy from daily — perhaps hourly — rain, the town sparkles when the sun shows its face.

Here’s where visitors’ visions and daydreams of Alaska come to life. It’s a place where bald eagles dive for dinner in the Tongass Narrows. Where killer whales frequent. Where the backdrop of one’s day is lush rainforest, waterfalls and towering fjords. And where ancient totem poles hold the secrets of the region.

Walk along picturesque Creek Street, a boardwalk lined with boutiques and teeming with salmon in the waters just below. Once part of the Ketchikan’s red-light district, Creek Street was known as the only place where the “fishermen and fish went upstream to spawn.”

Venture 10 miles north to Totem Bight State Historical Park, a former Native campground set in the rainforest. The park is a collection of these colorful, intricate cedar monuments found in abandoned villages as well as a replica of a chieftain’s house.

Those wanting to get the adrenaline pumping should head to Bear Creek for incredible zip lining. Whoosh across thousands of feet of cable from platform to platform, taking in panoramic views of the lush forest, a stunning waterfall, the nearby ocean and incredible mountain vistas.

— Kelly Liszt

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Creek Street’s present is a lot tamer than its past.

w alk o n w a t e r It’s pretty as a picture now, but Creek Street has a notorious past.

By Janet Groene Bright colors and a cornucopia of chic eateries and boutiques now greet visitors to Creek Street, built on pilings over Ketchikan Creek. but history tattles a more tawdry story of its colorful past. Here, against the dramatic backdrop of Deer Mountain, once stood dance halls, saloons and bordellos.

Meandering uphill behind the buildings is the Married Man’s Trail. Today it’s a rugged hike for adventure tourists.

During the infamous Prohibition years, it was an escape route for desperate husbands on the run from angry wives who’d caught them sampling the pleasures of Creek Street.

The twin sins of boozing and wenching were a major industry in the mining and salmon fishing boomtown of Ketchikan in the roaring 20’s. Prohibition stopped up the beer taps and banished spirits to hidden cupboards. Prostitution was legal

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in Alaska but subject to government regulations. Boarding houses with more than two “female boarders” were considered to be brothels, so women who set up housekeeping, so to speak, on Creek Street worked only by ones and twos.

One of the most successful sole proprietors was Dolly Arthur (1888-1975), born in Idaho as Thelma Dolly Copeland. Her bawdy house opened in 1919, with rates of $3 for “going upstream to spawn” or 50 cents for a shot of watered whiskey.

Today a must-see museum, her home is much as she left it when she died in 1975. Relics of the home’s roistering past include Dolly’s shower curtain, decorated with a floral wreath fashioned out of French silk condoms.

Always colorful but now law abiding, today’s Creek Street is G-rated.

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54A FRONT STREET, KETCHIKAN, AK 99901

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Totem poles and Native art keep culture alive by telling stories of life in Southeast Alaska.

saxman n a t i v e v ill a g e Experiencing an ancient art at the world’s largest collection of standing totem poles.

By John Anderson

You can spot them in the distance as you approach the shore, solemn sentinels peeking out through the mist, towering over home and hearth and earthbound creatures moving through the village below. Stoic eagles sit atop 30- and 40-foot poles, their wooden wings spread wide in a bold display of patterns in white, teal, deep red and black. Carved into the wood beneath, and on neighboring totem poles, are a cast of creatures intertwined in the life and myths of the people who erected them. Beaver, otter, raven, eagle, killer whale, bear, wolf, fisherman, a panoply of symbols of vital importance to their story, proudly displayed for anyone able to read the signs.

There are more standing totems at Saxman Native Village Totem Park than anywhere else in the world. According to a weathered wooden sign at the site (with an average of 153 inches of precipitation each year, everything is weathered here), the poles are restored originals from nearby Pennock, Tongass and Village islands, as well as the old Cape Fox Village at Kirk Point, making some over 100 years old.

Saxman was established in 1894 by Tlingit Native people from Cape Fox and Tongass; the two villages joined up to share resources for a new school and church.

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Native American totem pole at Saxman Native Village.

Reading the Totems To look up at one of the 25 totem poles at the Totem Park is to stand in awe of these creations: the massive bulk and height (they can weigh half a ton and reach 65 feet), the extraordinary artistry and an expressiveness in the faces of the creatures that is clear to any visitor. There’s also something mystifying about these animals stacked atop one another as if set along the axis of the world, providing more questions than answers for visitors who wish to decipher the language of these symbols.

“There is a story behind every totem pole, but not every pole tells a story,” says Joe Williams, the first Tlingit Native to be elected mayor of Ketchikan Borough and a guide for over 20 years with his tour company, Where the Eagle Walks.

Indeed, some totem poles can be read as a series of events, telling the story of the clan or family that own them.

They can also commemorate an event. Visitors to Saxman’s Totem Park will find a curious pole with the figure of Abraham Lincoln standing on top. First made in the 1870s (the one here is a re-creation), the pole recalls the war between rival Tlingit Eagle and Raven clans in 1868. Entrenched on an island without freshwater or food, the Raven people escaped under protection of the U.S. cutter Lincoln, and the two clans made peace and never fought again.

Totem poles are also used to shame an individual or a family, mostly for unpaid debts. The Seward Pole in Saxman Village is topped with the figure of William Seward, secretary of state under President Lincoln. Its ears and nose are painted red to symbolize Steward’s stinginess in not reciprocating the generosity shown to him during an 1869 Tlingit potlatch (a ceremonial feast) in his honor.

Less common is a mortuary pole, where the cremated remains of the deceased are placed in the upper portion of the pole. One example is the Kats/Loon Pole at Saxman Village, topped by a loon in flight with three bears descending down the pole, representing the clan groups the individual belonged to. At bottom is the mythical Kats figure being held by his bear wife. The story goes that after marrying and fathering three bear sons, Kats returned to his human family and spoke to his human wife, breaking a promise to his bear wife. At that moment, the three bear sons appeared from the woods and killed their father.

Williams says totem creation began 500 to 600 years ago.

“The carving was crude, at best. What was used was bones of an animal, or just rock.” Carvers have always used western red cedar, a soft wood that doesn’t rot easily and can last 80 to 100 years. “Proficiency of carving didn’t begin until the arrival of white men, which brought steel,” he says.

In the old days, totem poles informed people of the owners’ unique history, their clan associations and the stories that bound them together as a tribe, clan and family. “Generally there would be one to two totem poles in front of each home,” says Williams. “That would tell you it was a wealthy village.”

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Carving History Visitors to Saxman Native Village can get a view into the long and involved process of creating a totem pole by watching the artists at work in the carving center, where poles are shown in different stages of development. Every foot of pole requires about a week of work; thus, a 50-foot pole would take a year to make. The carvers work with specialized tools they make themselves. “One carver will never borrow another’s tools,” says Williams. “It’d be like borrowing another’s shoes.”

After the right tree is found, which can take years of searching, the bark is stripped and the log is cut in half along its length. “Red cedar decays from the inside out, so the center of the log is always cut out,” says Williams. The log is continuously sprayed with water to keep it moist, which makes it easier to carve, and wet towels are applied to it at the end of the work day.

Today the artists simply run to the hardware store for paint, but in the old days they relied on natural pigments. For red, they used sockeye salmon eggs. Painting was an arduous process,

Williams says. “Because of (the eggs’) chemical makeup, women would chew and chew the eggs to mix with their saliva, and spit into a bowl until it was completely filled. That’s why poles were never painted completely.” It was a primitive process, he says, but the paints lasted 75 to 100 years.

Also at the Totem Park is a traditional one-room clan house constructed of red cedar planks three inches thick and measuring 50 by 75 feet, and 30 feet at is highest. Most clan houses were smaller, 30 by 50 feet, and were used communally by several clans or families with anywhere from 25 to 40 people living in them. The cooking was done inside, and the young boys were responsible for keeping the fire burning every day of the year.

A trip to Saxman Native Village offers visitors an intimate view into the world of modern Tlingit artists, and details of a history that goes back centuries. “This is from one Tlingit point of view,” says Williams. “There are many Tlingits, and so many points of view.”

CREATISTA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Detail from Beaver Clan House at Saxman Native Village.

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38 Front Street, Ketchikan AK 99901 | 907-247-2383

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SPEC I A L A DV E RT ISI NG F E AT U R E

ala s k a ’s l o g g in g hi s t o r y li v e s o n Sit back and enjoy a thrilling display of agility, energy and power as some of the world’s best athletes compete for the title “Bull of the Woods.”

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It all started in the early 1900s, as rugged lumberjacks toiled each day in one of Alaska’s most grueling environments, harvesting timber for our growing nation. Echoing from remote logging camps, up and down the coast, you could hear the clamor of the axe, the racket of the cross-cut saw and the frequent calls of “TIMBER!” Eventually, these hardy loggers began gathering once each summer in Ketchikan to go head to head against their rival camps. Showdowns included chopping, sawing, log rolling, axe throwing and so much more. Today this legend lives on at The Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show where our lumberjacks are still battling it out for bragging rights.

Rated one of the top five tours in Alaska, this action-packed Alaska experience provides 60 minutes of thrilling competition fun for all ages!

Located just one block from the cruise ship docks in the heart of Ketchikan! This show is a must see, rain or shine! Our grandstands are covered, heated and handicapped accessible!

Don’t miss out on the AXE-tion! For the rowdiest good time in all of Alaska visit your Shore Excursions desk!

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in t o the woods The Tongass National Forest, encompassing more than 16 million acres, is the largest national forest in the United States and an integral part of Ketchikan’s economy and lifestyle. Most people are surprised to learn that the Tongass is a rainforest, albeit a temperate one; there is no defined rainy season and rain may fall here every day. On the first floor of Ketchikan’s Federal Building, the U.S. Forest Service Interpretive Center runs an excellent program about this natural wonder.

An aerial view of the Tongass.

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PHOTOS BY: (RAIN FOREST) LEE PRINCE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (AERIAL VIEW) LEE PRINCE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (BEARS) NANCYS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM.

The Tongass is a temperate rainforest.

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PHOTOS BY: (RAIN FOREST) LEE PRINCE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (AERIAL VIEW) LEE PRINCE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (BEARS) NANCYS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM.

Brown bears fishing off Admiralty Island, Tongass National Forest. The island is home to an estimated 1,500 brown bears — more than in all the Lower 48 states combined.

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s alm o n c a pi t al of t he world

By Janet Groene

In Ketchikan, salmon is more than just a traditional food. It’s an iconic animal with a deep spiritual meaning for Native cultures. This legendary fish has played an essential role in sustaining local communities. Whether it’s attending a salmon bake, going on a fishing excursion or buying a piece of Native art depicting the legendary salmon of Haida and Tlingit folklore, a visit to Alaska isn’t complete without connecting with salmon in one way or another.

The fish is one of the figures that are prominently depicted on totem poles in Ketchikan, home of the world’s largest collection of standing totems. Its presence on the poles, which also portray ravens, eagles, frogs and other creatures, indicates its importance to local communities.

The connection between Ketchikan and salmon is more than just spiritual. For generations, Ketchikan was a summer fishing camp for Tlingit tribes. The area’s fame as a fishing site grew, and in 1883, settlers from Oregon built a salmon cannery.

Mining, timber and tourism have also played a part in building the community (which was incorporated in 1900), but it’s salmon that continues to feed Ketchikan’s stomach, as well as its soul.

PHOTOS BY: (SALMON JUMPING) SEKAR B/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (BEAR) JIM DAVID/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM. OPPOSITE PAGE: (SIGN) PIXACHI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (GOLD NUGGETS) MIKELEDRAY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM.

ABOVE: Sockeye salmon swimming upstream.

LEFT: Alaskan brown bear with one that, sadly, didn’t get away.

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FOPE.COM

38 Front Street, Ketchikan, AK 99901 | 907-247-2383

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The sign of a great time in port.

s ig n s t e ll s t o r i e s o f k e t c hik a n ’s li v e l y p a s t One of the best ways to take in Ketchikan’s fascinating history and culture may simply be a leisurely stroll around town. Thanks to more than a dozen informative signs placed at important sites throughout the city, it’s easy to learn about the significant pieces of Ketchikan’s history, including the racier ones.

The Ketchikan Historic Commission installed 15 signs on many historically significant buildings in town. The signs spotlight famous locales like Annie’s Place and Dolly’s House (both former brothels) on Creek Street, as well as the historic New York Hotel & Café. The signage project also recognizes some lesser-known Ketchikan gems like the former location of the once-bustling Ketchikan Shingle Mill.

A second signage project resulted in five additional storyboards that feature the historic and present-day relationship between Ketchikan, salmon and the town’s fishing lifestyle in general. Signs highlight the earliest commercial canning operations (including Fidalgo Island Packing Co.), the location of the largest charter fleet in Southeast Alaska, famed Ketchikan Creek (once a summer fish camp for Alaska natives) and more.

Signs can be found at the Mountain Point boat harbor, on Stedman Street near Trident Seafoods, at Thomas Basin Marina and at Knudson Cove Marina. All these signs are in addition to the stunning array of public art on display along the dock areas and promenades of historic Ketchikan. — Lynn Seldon

SPEC I A L A DV E RT ISI NG F E AT U R E

nu g g e t s : t h e n e x t b ig t hin g Over the past 120 years, an immeasurable amount of gold has been mined in Alaska; however, very few gold nuggets weighing over 30 ounces have ever been found. One now belongs to David Conner.

In the fall of 2012, Conner, owner of Orocal Natural Gold Co., received a call from an Anchorage area number. He was offered an opportunity that, in over 45 years of doing business in Alaska, he had never seen. The caller was selling a 30-ounce Alaskan gold nugget from his family estate that had been found years earlier.

After careful consideration, Conner agreed to the sale. “You see, finding a nugget weighing over 1 ounce is considered rarer than a 5-carat diamond, so can you only imagine how rare a 30-ounce nugget is?”

According to Conner, most gold pieces found are between one and two millimeters.

Nuggets of this size can be bought at any of the Orocal Natural Gold Co. authorized dealers in Ketchikan and throughout Alaska. They can then be cut by skilled craftspeople into a beautiful piece of jewelry or as keepsakes to remember your trip to the Last Frontier.

Conner is not sure if he’ll be selling “The Big One” anytime soon, but he hopes to put it on display at one of his authorized dealers to allow visitors a chance to see and even hold it.

To learn more, visit www.orocal.com.

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SPOTLIGHT

KETCHIKAN ARCTIC SPIRIT GALLERY Specializing in Northwest Coast and Alaskan Native art, Arctic Spirit Gallery is locally owned and operated.

Featuring baleen baskets and basketry, walrus ivory carvings, whalebone fossil carvings, totem poles, Bentwood boxes, wood masks, Haida argillite carvings and a vast collection of Native art from Barrow to Southeast Alaska. Located under the Welcome Arch.

SCANLON ART GALLERY Featuring Alaskan art by Alaskan artists, including prints, originals, handcrafted jewelry, gold nugget jewelry mined and made in Alaska, glass, soapstone, bronze, antlers, gifts and much more. Locally owned and operated since 1972. Located under the Welcome Arch.

318 Mission Street (907) 228-2277 arcticspiritgallery.com

318 Mission Street (907) 247-4730 scanlongallery.com

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“Jewelry that expresses the woman you are, without saying a word.”

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Shop Local. Shop Alaskan Owned & Operated

In the beginning, the earth was created, including the raw ingredients for these beautiful creations from Orocal. Gold formed as veins inside quartz deposits within the earth. Erosion then broke the gold out to become individual nuggets.

Today, when gold is found still embedded in quartz, they are kept as one and placed in dazzling settings by the craftspeople of Orocal.

Gold nuggets and gold in quartz. Created to be beautiful from the best of the earth.

You have the opportunity this week to own this rare treasure.

Julie’s in Ketchikan has the world’s largest selection of this incredible work of Nature.

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55 Schoenbar Court

www.juliesalaska.com 800.982.0554 Stay connected and like us on Facebook

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Pre-Historic WoollyMammoth Jewelry 10,000 to 100,000 Years old

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Alaskan Native HandiCraft Carvings

Orca Multi-Color Diamond Collection

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ABOVE: Mushing across snowy terrain, a popular pursuit in Skagway.

OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: The White Pass & Yukon Route railway chugs along; a Princess ship with a breathtaking view.

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PHOTOS BY: RUTH PETERKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; STEVE ESTVANIK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; RUTH PETERKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM.

skagway

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quick guide Famed for: The White Pass & Yukon rail line, first opened in 1900 to carry miners and freight to and from the Yukon; it now operates as a heritage railway.

It’s a Fact: Skagway served as part of the setting for Jack London’s book The Call of the Wild.

PHOTOS BY: RUTH PETERKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; STEVE ESTVANIK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; RUTH PETERKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM.

Signature Souvenirs: White Pass & Yukon railroad memorabilia; hand-blown glass art from Jewell Gardens; barware from local saloons.

Located at the northernmost point of the Inside Passage, the small town of Skagway has played a big part in Alaska’s colorful history. Soon after homesteaders William Moore and his son Ben founded the tiny outpost in the late 1800s, Skagway became a major embarkation point for a flood of prospectors on their way to the Yukon during the Klondike gold rush. The town boomed to as many as 10,000 residents in 1898, as businesses flourished helping outfit the tens of thousands of stampeders on their way to the gold fields.

Skagway today pays homage to this famous era. The Moore Homestead, now managed by the National Park Service, looks much as it did in 1887. The Mascot Saloon Museum offers a glimpse of the town’s rough-and-tumble past, when up to 100 saloons were open for business. And the Arctic Brotherhood Hall has been restored to its 1899 glory with some 9,000 pieces of decorative driftwood covering every inch of its façade.

— John Anderson

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You'll see a trace of the gold rush days in Skagway.

Wanting to trace the trails of the Klondike Gold Rush? You’ve come to the right place.

Skagway is gateway to the days of frenzied prospecting — also known as the Last Grand Adventure — amid a stunning, yet harsh, terrain. Downtown itself looks locked in time, resembling a movie set with its false-front buildings.

Downtown Skagway is also within Klondike Gold Rush National Park, a place with many opportunities to explore. Hike the Chilkoot Trail to the peaceful Yukon River.

Try panning for gold, weighing your findings at the Assayer’s Office. Or step aboard a vintage railcar for an unforgettable ride over the White Pass Trail, up to the Yukon’s White Pass summit, more than 3,000 feet above sea level. The railroad is an incredible feat of engineering, carved from the region’s most rugged terrain more than a century ago. Look out for peculiarly named Bridal Veil Falls, Inspiration Point and Dead Horse Gulch.

Also explore Dyea Townsite, a ghost town at the foot of the Chilkoot Trail that was at one time Skagway’s rival city. Once the White Pass & Yukon Route was completed in 1900, the town seemed to vanish. Crumbling ruins remain amid gorgeous scenery, and the overlook affords splendid views of Skagway.

Make your visit to the area complete with a visit to a musher dog kennel. Meet a musher and learn about how they train these amazing canines. Watch the dogs in action, pet them and, if you’re lucky, you may get to hold a musher puppy. — Kelly Liszt

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the moore homestead Skagway’s oldest building, it’s where pioneer William Moore staked his claim to riches.

By John Anderson

Take a stroll through the streets of Skagway and you’ll eventually come upon a building that sticks out from the town’s other structures, distinctively rustic even by Alaska’s rustic standards. The small log cabin isn’t a mere prop set up by the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, which manages the Moore Homestead site. It’s the oldest building in Skagway and the original home of Captain William Moore, the first known resident after the town’s formation.

Gold fever gripped hordes of fortune seekers after the Klondike gold strike of 1896. Moore saw it coming a decade prior, and staked his claim not only in the gold fields but in the lucrative business of supplying and catering to the needs of those miners. For years, beginning in the 1850s, the accomplished steamboat captain, explorer and businessman had followed the many gold strikes that occurred across British Columbia, providing transportation and hauling supplies to the prospectors who followed. In 1887, as part of a government survey party to the Yukon Valley, he predicted the area would be the location of the next big gold discovery.

Wasting no time, Moore and his son Ben acquired 160 acres of bayfront land in an area the Native Tlingit people called “Shghagwei,” meaning “rugged” or “wind place.” It was a good location for a wharf, which the two proceeded to build along with a sawmill to support a future settlement at the site.

Moore had earlier trekked through a pass to the Yukon from a trail that began in his new town, who believed it to be an ideal starting point for prospectors on their way to the gold fields.

When the Klondike gold rush began in the 1897, a flotilla of ships offloaded thousands of prospectors at Skagway’s wharf. The town boomed overnight, becoming a primary staging area for trips up the White Pass Trail and into Canada.

Also that year, Ben Moore built a wood-frame house next to the original cabin, expanding it as his family and wealth increased. The Moore house has been restored by the National Park Service to its 1904 condition. Visitors can learn about the Moore family’s odyssey and the formation and drastic impact the Klondike gold rush had on Skagway.

The home of Captain William Moore, who was Skagway's first non-Native resident, was restored by the National Park Service.

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a r ail w a y buil t o f g old More than a century ago, a railroad was born of a gold rush. Gold was discovered in the Yukon Territory in 1896. From 1897 to 1898, the stampeders arrived in Alaska en masse on their way to the Yukon.

By Stanton H. Patty

Gold brought with it commerce and permanence; the settlers needed a way in and a way out. The line, the White Pass & Yukon Route (WP&YR), was completed in two years, two months and two days.

Now the White Pass & Yukon Route’s narrow-gauge railroad, headquartered in Skagway, is one of Alaska’s top visitor attractions. From May to September 2015, it carried more than 400,000 passengers. Before departing on their ride into history, they can see the story of the WP&YR depicted in a handpainted mural that wraps around all four walls of the depot waiting room.

It’s a colorful story indeed.

“This Country Needs This Railroad” Gold was discovered in the Klondike country of the Canadian Yukon, almost 500 miles north of Skagway, near the end of the 19th century. The whispered word “Gold!” became a shout heard around the world, and soon the stampede was on. Thousands of hopeful miners poured through Skagway on their way to the gold fields around the Klondike’s nascent boomtown, Dawson City.

There were two perilous gold trails from the Skagway area.

One was the avalanche-prone Chilkoot Trail. The other was known as the White Pass Trail. Both ended at Lake Bennett, British Columbia, where the gold-fevered prospectors built crude boats and rafts to float down the Yukon River to Dawson City.

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Halfway around the world, British financiers in London were looking for ways to cash in on the Klondike madness. They reasoned there must be a better way to get prospectors over the mountains — and harvest a share of the miners’ gold.

Sir Thomas Tancrede, an English aristocrat, was dispatched to Skagway in 1898 to explore the feasibility of building a railroad into the Yukon. Tancrede had a look around and decided that the mountain barriers were too high, the grades too steep.

He was just about to file a negative report when Michael J. Heney, a Canadian railroad contractor, hiked into Skagway after scouting the mountain passes around Lake Bennett. Tancrede and his companions invited Heney to join them for a drink at Skagway’s St. James Hotel. The men talked far into the night.

Heney affirmed that a railroad could be built through White Pass.

“This country needs this railroad — and I would like to be the man to do it,” he told Tancrede. “Give me enough dynamite and snoose [snuff], and I’ll build a road to hell!”

Heney was hired, and construction began on May 28, 1898.

But even as the first ribbons of steel pointed toward White Pass, trouble was brewing back in Skagway.

Wicked Ways At the time, Skagway was a rowdy town ruled by an outlaw gang. A visiting Canadian Mountie called it “little better than a hell on earth.” Robberies and murders were common occurrences. Honky-tonk pianos accompanied the crack of

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Today's passengers get a comfortable ride through aweinspiring views. At right, a tougher trip for builders.

gunshots and cries for help. Jefferson Randolph “Soapy” Smith, a sometimes charming, always dangerous con man, reigned over both Skagway and the gold trails.

Local merchants decided that Soapy Smith and his gaggle of gangsters had to go.

The showdown came on July 8, 1898. Vigilantes gathered on the Skagway waterfront. Smith, hearing about the meeting, downed a glass of whiskey, then, rifle in hand, marched down the street to confront his foes. Frank H. Reid, the town surveyor, blocked his way. There was a brief scuffle. Smith shot Reid in the groin; Reid fired his revolver at almost the same instant, putting a bullet through the scoundrel’s heart.

Smith died on the scene. Reid, mortally wounded, expired shortly thereafter.

Building a Railroad Thirteen days later, the White Pass & Yukon Route dispatched its first train on a 4-mile excursion for Skagway dignitaries. Two and a half miles out of town, the tracks meandered by the fresh graves of Soapy Smith and Frank Reid.

Heney’s men continued toiling toward the White Pass summit. They hacked and blasted through the mountains with picks, shovels and black powder, sometimes dangling on ropes hundreds of feet above thundering rapids. They swatted swarms of mosquitoes in summer and endured winter temperatures plunging to 60 degrees below zero.

The tracks reached the 2,865-foot-high White Pass summit in February 1899. And on July 29, construction crews coming from Skagway and Whitehorse met at Carcross, where a “golden spike” was driven into the ground to mark the line’s completion.

Chugging Along Nowadays visitors are immersed in history as they ride the WP&YR train along the old rail trail over White Pass. While passing the Gold Rush Cemetery, passengers see a tall granite shaft over Reid’s resting place, inscribed: “He gave his life for the honor of Skagway.” Smith’s grave is just outside the cemetery boundary. The good people of Skagway were not about to plant his remains in hallowed ground, Skagway tour guides tell visitors.

Just beyond the cemetery, the tracks rise quickly from sea level into the snowcapped peaks and blue-white glaciers of the St. Elias Mountains. The train weaves, climbs and grinds toward the crest of White Pass, looping across cliffhanging cuts with dizzying views of misty waterfalls and traversing granite paths where the boot prints of Klondike stampeders can still be seen.

The stampede to the Klondike was a frenzy that burned out in little more than two years. But the White Pass & Yukon Route, a nugget from that epic Gold Rush, chugs along as one of the last remaining narrow-gauge railroads in North America.

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Built in 1898 to open the Klondike region of Yukon Territory to gold seekers, the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway (WP&YR) — originally stretching from Skagway, Alaska, to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory — was completed in 1900, just before the end of the Klondike Gold Rush.

It took the labor of 35,000 men, using only black blasting powder and crude tools to battle the elements and treacherous landscapes, to hew out the original 110-mile narrow-gauge line. The railway hauled freight and passengers for over 80 years, and was also an early pioneer of intermodal freight containerization. It closed down in 1982 after a dramatic fall in world ore prices. But WP&YR persevered and reopened its doors just six years later as “The Scenic Railway of the World,” providing rail excursions to visitors from all over. In 1994, WP&YR was named an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, joining the likes of the Statue of Liberty and the Panama Canal with this prestigious honor.

Today, guests experience the breathtaking panorama of mountains, glaciers, trestles and tunnels from the comfort of vintage rail cars. Hear a fully narrated tour of the White Pass & Yukon Route featuring tales of villainous gunslingers, good-time girls and would-be gold seekers struggling towards the Yukon, and see with your own eyes the untouched, pristine beauty of the Pacific Coast mountain ranges. Trips depart from Skagway, with many of the rail and motor coach combination trips featuring connections in both Fraser, British Columbia, and Carcross, Yukon Territory.

Excursions are available between early May and late September each year and are geared around the schedules of all major cruise lines. The White Pass & Yukon Route is Alaska’s most popular shore excursion and a favorite on many Alaska/Yukon travelers’ must-see lists.

PICTURES BI: FRANK CORTESE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; WHITE PASS & YUKON ROUTE ARCHIVES. OPPOSITE PAGE: (SIGN) JIRI VONDROUS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM.

FLORIDASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

SPEC I A L A DV E RT ISI NG F E AT U R E

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SK A AG LA W SK A A Y,

THE SCENIC RAILWAY OF THE WORLD

Built in 1898 during the Klondike Gold Rush, this narrow gauge railroad is an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.

Experience the breathtaking panorama of mountains, glaciers, gorges, waterfalls, tunnels, trestles and historic sites from the comfort of vintage parlor cars.

CONVENIENT DOCKSIDE ACCESS See your Shore Excursion Desk to reserve your seat

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the jewell of skagway In a city known for its gorgeous flowers, Jewell Gardens is a blooming beauty.

Visitors have marveled at the wonder of Skagway’s gardens since the Klondike gold rush days; the city is known as the Garden City of Alaska. It’s no surprise, then, that one of Skagway’s most popular attractions is Jewell Gardens, a lush green space that features a wide variety of colorful perennials, annuals and organic vegetables, as well as glass-blowing classes and demonstrations.

Jewell Gardens is located on the original homestead of Henry Clark, Skagway’s first farmer, who became famous for supplying fresh produce to hungry prospectors. The descendants of Clark’s monster rhubarb plants, which reached heights of six feet, still grow at the site.

A stroll through the well-manicured grounds reveals beds of purple irises; towering shocks of delphinium in vibrant blue and white; fluffy red and pink hydrangea; and tulips in a range of colors. A miniature train chugs around the garden, puffing through a town modeled after Skagway of the late 1800s, including a rocky tunnel and the scale-model tents of early miners set in a carpet of wildflowers. Another section of the gardens is dedicated to growing organic produce, such as potatoes, beets, carrots and squash, to supply Poppies Restaurant — the sunny on-site café and tea shop.

PHOTOS BY: JEWELL GARDENS

By John Anderson

Jewell Gardens, a colorful stop in Skagway.

Many of the flowerbeds are also decorated with beautiful glass art objects, created in Jewell Gardens’ popular glass-blowing studio, Garden City Glassworks. It’s the only “hot shop” in the state open to the public. Visitors can watch a team of professional artisans at work in the studio creating elaborate ornaments, vases and bowls that are later displayed in the Jewell Gardens shop. A tour includes several hours of hands-on instruction in the art of glass-blowing; participants can create a personalized souvenir that can be shipped to their home. After sunset, the garden offers a spectacular outside fire tour with glass-blowing in the dark.

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SPOTLIGHT

PHOTOS BY: JEWELL GARDENS

SKAGWAY ALASKA SHIRT COMPANY All aboard for amazing savings, styles and selection at Alaska Shirt Company!

Stop in and load up from our 9,000 square feet of fun, fashionable and frugal souvenirs, including the "Somebody Loves Me" t-shirt (shown), available in kids and adult sizes. It’s worth it to cross the tracks - located near the Train Depot at 1st and Broadway.

SKAGWAY BREWING COMPANY Drink up a bit of history with us.

Established in 1897 to hydrate the thirsty prospectors of the Klondike Gold Rush, Skagway Brewing Company continues to create handcrafted ales and delicious pub fare, including local salmon and halibut fish & chips for today’s local and traveling crowds. Check out our souvenir beer gear!

Located on 7th Avenue & Broadway.

(907) 586-9510 shirtco.com

(907) 783-brew (2739) skagwaybrewing.com

425 Broadway • Skagway Celebrate Christmas Alaska Style!

Santas Ornaments Nativities Dolls 907-983-2006 www.alaskachristmasstore.com

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r e g io n al hig hlig h t s More places to explore in alaska and neighboring regions

Icy Strait Point This unique place, situated on the Chicagof Island 30 miles west of Juneau across the Inside Passage, is the perfect spot to get acquainted with Native culture while enjoying the exhilarating and amazing experience that is Alaska. A region of spectacular natural beauty, it offers visitors a myriad of cultural and recreational opportunities such as zip lining, wildlife sighting, sampling savory Alaska cuisine and experiencing an authentic Tlingit village.

Icy Strait Point is owned and operated by Tlingit natives, the first people to make the Pacific Northwest coast their home.

They have lived here for thousands of years and are skilled mariners, fishermen, hunters, gatherers, traders and craftsmen.

Their rich heritage is most evident at America's largest Tlingit village, just a mile and a half from Icy Strait Point.

Modern life shows little of itself in this village, with only a few paved roads, no stoplights and a handful of retail outlets. Native tradition lives on in four beautifully carved totem poles that depict the ancestry and social ranks of the families who live here.

A stop at the Native Cultural Center gives insight into the history of the region, with performances that tell the Tlingit story in songs, dances and stories.

History lovers who visit Icy Strait Point may want to tour the site of the Hoonah Packing Company, once the cornerstone of

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the local economy. It produced tons of canned salmon during four decades of operation, providing provided jobs that contributed to the development of the area. A visit today offers a glimpse of what a cannery looked like in the early 1900s.

Nature lovers will feel right at home in Icy Strait Point's rainforests and vast wilderness, with countless opportunities to spot wildlife. On land, a hike down museum nature trails or a backroads exploration aboard an all-terrain vehicle can be just the ticket for those who want to become one with nature.

From a viewing platform at the Spasski River valley, visitors may catch a glimpse or two of the many brown bears that make these woods their home. At sea, more excitement awaits at the whale-watching tours that depart from Point Adolphus, where orcas, humpbacks, sea lions and seals can often be seen in summertime. Sports enthusiasts can go on a kayak tour on the pristine blue waters for a chance to experience sea life up close.

There's an added bonus for the thrill-seekers who visit Icy Strait Point: the highest zip line in North America. After a short ride to get to the top of the mountain, they get on a zip line that soars 300 feet above the treetops, at speeds of up to 60 mph, ending on the beach.

The serene majesty of the snowcapped peaks of Glacier Bay National Park can be seen in the background on most clear days. — Raquel Johnston

PHOTOS BY: (CABIN) RUBEN M RAMOS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (BRIDGE) ANDREW ZARIVNY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (DOWNTOWN SEATTLE) ROMAN KHOMLYAK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The Welcome Center, Icy Strait Point.

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Seattle Founded in 1851, the so-called Emerald City celebrates its past at Pioneer Square, which is a National Historic District, and at Chinatown-International District, where Seattle’s Asian-American heritage is showcased at restaurants, shops and historical exhibits. Shoppers find plenty to keep them happy at lively Pike Place Market, the oldest openair market on the West Coast; here, local artisans, farmers and other merchants offer their wares. Seattle’s numerous museums and cultural venues include Seattle Center, which is located on the grounds of the 1962 World’s Fair — birthplace of Seattle’s most famous icon, the Space Needle. Take a ferry across Puget Sound and enjoy a stunning view of the Olympic Mountains, the Cascade Range and Mount Rainier. Lovers of the grape raise their glasses in Woodinville, Seattle’s wine country, which is less than 30 minutes from downtown Seattle.

PHOTOS BY: (CABIN) RUBEN M RAMOS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (BRIDGE) ANDREW ZARIVNY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (DOWNTOWN SEATTLE) ROMAN KHOMLYAK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ABOVE: Pier 66, Seattle’s waterfront amusement center. RIGHT: The Golden Gate bridge, San Francisco.

San Francisco Ask their favorite American city, and many travelers name romantic, sophisticated San Francisco. Where to begin in this chic city by the bay? Often it’s Fisherman’s Wharf, the waterfront spot where majestic Golden Gate Bridge rises a breathtaking 220 feet at midpoint. A ferry takes visitors across the bay to Alcatraz, which is still remembered as one of the nation’s most feared prisons, decades after it shut down and became a museum. Chinatown also beckons, offering a heady mix of old traditions and new attitudes. The city’s cable cars are the easiest — and most memorable — way to get up and down all those steep hills, and as National Historic Landmarks, they offer a piece of living heritage. Just across the bay lies Sausalito, an artists’ colony where boutiques and galleries line the waterfront. San Francisco is also close to the esteemed wine country of Sonoma and Napa Valley.

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Vancouver Lovely parks and exquisite botanical gardens fill this Canadian port, host of the 2010 Winter Olympics. One of the most impressive is Stanley Park, a 1,000-acre forested peninsula filled with beaches and walking trails, including a 7-mile-long seawall. In the center of the city, perched atop Little Mountain, sits Queen Elizabeth Park. Once a humble quarry, it is now a sunken garden blooming with shrubbery and flowerbeds, and housing an aviary for more than 100 free-flying birds.

Eastern inspiration blossoms at the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden. Chinese artisans created the garden with materials imported from China and used traditional building methods dating back to the Ming Dynasty. For a glimpse at old Vancouver, stop by Gastown, from which the city first began to grow. It’s a popular shopping district, with a delightful clock that fills the air with music every 15 minutes.

Victoria The influence of Victoria’s English founders remains strong in this pretty city of well-tended gardens and charming homes. During the Gold Rush days of the mid-1800s it was home to thousands of hopeful prospectors. Today, it showcases its nautical past at the Maritime Museum of British Columbia, which displays more than 5,000 historical treasures. The heart of the city curves around the quaint stonewalled Inner Harbour, surrounded by attractions such as the Undersea Gardens, the Royal London Wax Museum and the ivy-covered Empress Hotel.

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PHOTOS BY: (GARDENS) 2009FOTOFRIENDS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM/ (VANCOUVER) LEE WALKER/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM;

RIGHT: Dragon boats on the Vancouver waterfront.

BELOW: A garden in Victoria.

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SPOTLIGHTS

While you are here, pick up our "10 Ways to Experience The Bay Centre Like a Local" guide which includes complimentary experiences from select retailers.

Explore a large variety of souvenirs to bring home, from T-shirts and shot glasses to maple syrup and candies, plus a large selection of memorable "Made in Canada" gifts.

The Beaver Gift Shop accepts U.S. currency and gives U.S. currency change for your convenience.

PHOTOS BY: (GARDENS) 2009FOTOFRIENDS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM/ (VANCOUVER) LEE WALKER/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM;

1150 Douglas St. TheBayCentre.ca

The Bay Centre is a "must-shop" in Downtown Victoria's iconic Government Street, located in the heart of the shopping district and just steps away from the downtown cruise ship shuttle stop.

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