ONE MAGAZINE ISSUE NO. 11 NYC
WINTER 2015
the bold issue
11
boston new
york
city
sarasota
ESTABLISHED JUNE 2010
CONTRIBUTORS
EDITORIALS
Caleb & Gladys, Christine K r e i s e l m a i e r, L i l y a n d L i l a c , Carlyle Routh, Davide Sometti, Kari Sverrisson, A l ex Tr o m m l i t z , F ra n k W i d e m a n n , F e l i x Wo n g
A RT I C L E S / F E AT U R E S
Zaid Affas, Chanel, Dior
FA S H I O N D I R E C T O R
Amarsana Gendunova
All designs, creative and art direction were completed and produced by Nicole Gavrilles © ONE Magazine Nicole Gavrilles 2015 ONEMAG.US
C O N TA C T U S
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INFORMATION
INFORMATION
If you have any questions or comments, email us at info.onemag@gmail.com
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contents
n o.1 1
Wild Child at Heart Photos by Caleb & Gladys
All that Glitters Photos by Carlyle Routh 46
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66
Haze Days
Dark Beauty
Photos by Alex Trommlitz
Photos by Kรกri Sverriss
Concrete Forest 76
Photos by Felix Wong
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Layered
Wild Winds
Photos by Lily & Lilac
Photos by Frank Widemann
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the bold issue
Red
Reckless
Photos by Christine Kreiselmaier
Photos by Davide Sometti
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Product Picks Chanel Makeup & Accessories
wild winds for one magazine
wild winds for one magazine
Issue No.11
articles
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Interview — Zaid Affas
Interview by Emily Fox
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120
What's Next for Raf Simons
Fashion Picks
Written by Danielle Peterson
Brought to you by Chanel
LIFE IS ABOUT NOT KNOWING, HAVING TO CHANGE, TAKING THE MOMENT AND MAKING THE BEST OF IT, WITHOUT KNOWING WHAT'S GOING TO HAPPEN NEXT 11
letter from
editor
The word change has been surfaced numerous times since the beginning of 2015. The more people discover ONE, the more I hear about ways to grow the magazine and expand it into something grand and more magnificent that I could have ever dreamed it would be. All of the advice I’ve been given has meant a lot but has also clouded my thoughts. When you constantly hear how others would take it and push it, you forget about what you think it could and want it to be. You always have to stop and think — What do I want? Where do I see it going? How will I get there? For me, it’s time. I’m in no rush. I like to take things slow and at my own pace. Taking those little steps and getting them right the first time is more important to me than putting all your eggs in one basket and see what comes of it. This is my baby and I don’t want it to change into something so far than the core of what it stands for and the reasons it was first produced. I do want to grow this brand but it’s going to be in a way that I know my long term and new followers will enjoy. That being said — new things will arise within ONE and I’m very excited when we share with you all. We’re planning to make this brand stronger and more elaborate with new content and features we know you’ll enjoy. But for now, I hope you enjoy this issue, all about standing out, being bold and confident with change big or small. ☺
FOUNDER, EDITOR AT LARGE, DESIGNER
Nicole Gavrilles
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editorials designers articles
NO. 11
w ild ch i l d Photography Caleb & Gladys, Model Luisa Bianchin at Trump Models, Styling Sayuri Murakami, Hair Akihisa Yamaguchi for ORIBE Hair Care, Makeup KUMA using MAC Cosmetics
at he a r t ONE
dress alena akhmadulina, collar laurel hill jewelry, bracelet kate hewko
dress brandon sun, hat eric javits, necklace & rings pamela love
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coat & top a moi, pants julianna bass, rings pamela love
jacket & top o2nd, jumpsuit a moi, ring anndra neen
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fur jacket alena akhmadulina, top julianna bass, skirt o2nd, necklace kristin miller
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top prabal, pants o2nd, hat eric javits, collar & cuff on right hand laurel hill jewelry, cuffs on right hand laurel hill jewelry & alibi
dress valentina kova, hat eric javits, choker aoko su
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coat & top a moi
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r e c k — Photography Davide Sometti, Model Daniela at Nevs London, Styling Safiya Yekwai, Hair Yoshitaka Miyazaki, Makeup Nobuko Maekawa
l e s s ONE
jacket levis, trousers charlie may, shoes converse
top charlie may, trousers bimba y lola, shoes converse
leather jacket & skirt jh zane
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jacket jh zane, top & trousers bimba y lola, shoes kim kwang london
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top & trousers charlie may, shoes converse
cardigan, jackey & trousers bimba y lola, top charlie may
trousers charlie may
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top & bottoms ortho
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all that glitters Photography Carlyle Routh, Model Karis at Elmer Olsen Models, Styling Peter Papapetrou at Plutino Group, Hair & Makeup Vanessa Jarman at P1M, Set Design Caitlyn Doherty at P1M, Styling Assistant Emily Aitken
ONE
floral dress valentino at holt renfrew, boots prada, bag zilla at archivesltd.com, ring iradj moini at archivesltd.com
striped sweater h&m, orange pants with bow victoria beckham, heels h&m
metallic gold dress emilio pucci at holt renfrew shoes stella mccartney
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tri-color fur vest farley chatto, neck dickie pink tartan, bag chloĂŠ, shoes christian louboutin
striped sweater & skirt fendi at holt renfrew
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printed sweater stella mccartney, shoes saint laurent
embellished sweater h&m
sheer-side sweater john and jenn, shoes givenchy
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top & pants marni at holt renfrew clutch les petits joueurs at archivesltd.com boots stella mccartney
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con— crete Photography Felix Wong at Seen Artists, Model Kate Somers Muse Management, Styling Amarsana Gendunova at Lang Management, Hair Kiri Yoshiki using Oribe, Makeup Nina Park at The Wall Group using Mac Cosmetics at
forest ONE
top & skirt creatures of comfort , shoes giuletta
top edun, vest, pants & shoes creatures of comfort
dress haus alkire, top yigal azrouel
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top & scarf - worn as skirt issey miyake, over the knee boots edun
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top, pants & shoes creatures of comfort
coat yigal azrouel, dress & boots edun
top & pants jason wu hat reinhard plank comme
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pullover j'ai mal Ă la tete, dress irene luft
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wild winds Photography Frank Widemann, Model Milena Feuerer at Tune Models, Styling Milena Oezkeles, Makeup & Hair Alexandra-Maria Waldher using Chanel Cosmetics, Retouching Bird Imaging
ONE
cape 3.1 phillip lim from stylebop, pants philosophy di lorenzo serafini from stylebop, pullover allude
top carven from stylebop
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coat henrik vibskov, top american apparel, pants tim labenda
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dress carven from stylebop, pants m i h heans from stylebop, shoes minimarket
pullover allude, shirt henrik vibskov
top 3.1 phillip lim from stylebop, shorts allude
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blouse stine goya, pullover & skirt allude
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top carven, pants j.w.anderson both from stylebop
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dark Photography Kári Sverriss, Model Steinunn María, Styling Anna Maggý, Makeup & Hair Frida Maria using Mac and Blue Lagoon Skincare & Label.m, Retouching Lidia Stolyarova
beauty ONE
top & skirt anita hirlekar
jacket jรถr by guรฐmundur jรถrundsson
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sweater sigga maija
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jacket & pants sigga maija
jacket & pants eyland
top anita kirlekar, pants sigga maija
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one piece eyland
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coat eyland, turtleneck magnea, dress rakel jรณnsdรณttir
jacket & skirt pink tartan, turtleneck & hat american apparel, boots sergio rossi
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lay— ered Photography Lily & Lilac at Judy Inc., Model Ashley Allan at Elmer Olsen Models, Styling Julianne Costigan at P1M, Hair & Makeup Patrick RahmÊ at P1M using MAC Cosmetics & Oribe Hair Care, Manicurist Naomi Misu at P1M for Tips Nail Bar, Set Design Oliver Stenberg at Plutino Group, Special Thanks Douglas Timleck Hair Colour Specialist
ONE
jacket & pants smythe les vestes, turtleneck american apparel, hat & belt vintage
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coat, shorts & blouse pink tartan, boots sergio rossi
coat pink tartan, blouse hilary mcmillan, overalls topshop unique, shoes stylist's own
jacket sandro, sweater & cropped pants pink tartan, blouse equipment, boots sergio rossi
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sweater jennifer torosian, turtleneck american apparel
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coat helmut lang, turtleneck vintage, cropped pants pink tartan, belt jcrew
coat balenciaga, jumper jil sander
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red – Photography Christine Kreiselmaier, Model Sabi Khazgaleeva at Viva London, Styling Gail Holland at Stella Creative Artists, Hair Jason Crozier at Soho Management, Makeup Camilla Hewitt at Frank Agency using NARS Cosmetics, Photography Assistant Arash Fatehi, Set Design Miranda Latimer
ONE
jumper yoji yamamoto, culottes stella mccartney, shoes joshua sanders
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jumper caeven, skirt jil sander, shoes joshua sanders
coat max mara, corsage pedro del hierro, shirt max mara weekend, trousers rosie assoulin
coat dolce & gabbana
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shoes maje, culottes stella mccartney, shoes zara
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coat maje, jumper caeven, skirt jil sander, shoes joshua sanders
coat max mara, top isabel marant, trousers rosie assoulin, shoes joshua sanders
jumper bella freud, skirt jil sander
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haze Photography Alex Trommlitz, Model Vanessa Jobb at M4 Models, Styling Faustyna Klabun, Makeup & Hair Francesca Vigliarolo
days ONE
top victor & rolf, trousers maison martin margiela, shoes paul & joe, rings xenia bous
top plein sud, trousers tibi, shoes prada, rings xenia bous
coat yohji yamamoto, blouse haider ackermann
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blouse dior, trousers marni
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dress maison martin margiela, rings xenia bous
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dress jean paul gaultier, leather stockings arma, rings xenia bous
blouse elisabetta franchi, skirt fendi, rings xenia bous
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Z A I D A F F A S • I N T E R V I E W • N O . 1 1
Zaid Affas Interview Emily Fox Campaign Images Courtesy of Zaid Affas
In the wake of his successful show at Paris Fashion Week this past October, Zaid Affas is already well into working on his second Paris show, set for the upcoming season in February. The LA-based, London-trained, Kuwait-born designer’s first two seasons relied heavily on fabric and shape, the latter of which stems from a childhood love of architectural design. It is no surprise that many of his pieces play with the notions of structure and wearability, with heavy emphasis on the dramatic drapes and folds in fabric. The clothes, Mr. Affas asserts, are ready-to-wear, and the entire concept of wearability
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This rather tentative approach can be seen in his use of soft, peaceful fabrics; there are no bright colors, and the use of metallics is not gaudy, but subtly exotic, adding a touch of glamour and sexiness to his collection. For those familiar with his work, he is the tried-and-true employer of the boxy shoulder. The boyish, oversized clothing, which some may think his women might get lost in, still manages to emphasize the female waist and hemline, and those boxy shoulders accentuate the female form, rather than masculinize. The folds and creases are dramatic and bold, and the subtle, hardly And so, through keeping his focus on his brand, and noticeable attention to detail that is required when keeping his level of creative output to simply two making such draping implies a devotion to women that shows a year, Zaid Affas indeed is treading ground some designers appear to ignore all together. that seems so often trampled with over-exuberance. The excitement to be picked up by a large brand, the Indeed, throughout our conversation, Mr. Affas possibility to leave ones mark, and the ability to express emphasized that his main inspiration, apart from ones own create stamp on a brand so well-established fabrics, was the women he wished to dress. A woman is an opportunity that many would leap at, and this wearing Zaid Affas is one who is concerned with is all not to say that Mr. Affas himself would not do looking beautiful, but without sacrificing comfort. so also given the chance, he is, after all, only recently “It’s something that is meant to be worn by a human creating collections. We have yet to see what the future being,” states Mr. Affas. “It’s not a piece of art in a gallery or a museum. It has to work.” And it is true, of fashion has in store for him. drives his designs. These clothes are made with the wearer in mind, states Mr. Affas, while also maintaining an interest in the comfort of his clients. Yet, there is something quite interesting about the way in which Mr. Affas operates; he is creating two shows a year, and in an industry where designers are increasingly trending towards multiple labels under the same fashion house, and Resort and Pre-Fall shows, all of which often result in a designer working constantly on new creations with little time to repose, he is somewhat of a rarity indeed.
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“It’s something that is meant to be worn by a human being...It’s not a piece of art in a gallery or a museum. It has to work.” — ZAID AFFAS
though beautiful, high-end, and glamorous, his clothing is also remarkably wearable, comfortable yet chic. When pressed about his main motivation behind his collections, however, Mr. Affas is adamant; “It’s about the fabric,” he says. “That’s where it all begins, then I create the sketches.” The creativity, therefore, stems from a love of fabric itself, quite unsurprising for a designer. When asked about his forthcoming collection, Mr. Affas implied a collision of the natural world and the constructed world. “It’s very much about man-made materials, and nature. The complete contrast of rock formations and cliffs, and the buildings in between.” He plans to use this inspiration in the new collection by working it into the fabric selection. “There’s naturalbeautiful forms, and man-made-beautiful forms, if that makes any sense,” he jokes. And although no other hints were given, I would not be surprised to see some towering, gray silk pieces, and other asymmetrical metallics; meetings of the natural and the man-made, the soft and the hard. As this upcoming collection will be for Fall/Winter 2017, we can expect the first taste of a theme, which Mr. Affas will no doubt carry through to his Spring/Summer 2017 collection; a pattern he has followed in his previous seasons. Invariably, that means jackets and outerwear, which just so happen to be some of Mr. Affas’ favorite pieces to construct; “Draping is by far my favorite part of a collection,” he says wistfully. A simple glance through his collection displays an entire array of jackets and
outerwear that appear like crimped pieces of origami, their delicate turns and folds, and the way in which they hang when on a body, transform what may otherwise be rather simplistic jackets into delicately imagined and subtle works of art. There is an undeniable fascination with shape here, the silhouettes of his figures being so varied and unpredictable that the energy behind this young designer can be felt permeating through his pieces as one looks through them. Although we still have to wait several months before we can expect to see what Mr. Affas has in store for us, we can know that, regardless of his current ambitions, Mr. Affas is working hard on his new collection, which itself is still in the formation phase at Mr. Affas’ studio in Los Angeles. Regardless of whether he is designing for himself or for others, for multiple branches of his own brand or as creative director of a large, established fashion house, Mr. Affas is indeed working hard. Without burning out his creativity, and by working at a pace, which satisfies both him and his clients, he has managed to deliver collections of both considerable talent and incredible promise; we can only expect bigger and better things. And for those who are chomping at the bit for a wider selection of pieces, it is important to realize the apparent future for current, young fashion designers, and the veritable spreading of talent that is currently occurring in the fashion industry. Perhaps soon we may expect Mr. Affas to do the same.
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for information about zaid affas and to view more of his recent collections, visit zaidaffas.com.
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RAF SIMSONS
RAF SIMSONS
L O O K I N G F O R W A R D • A R T I C L E • N O . 1 1
DIOR SPRING 2016
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Looking Forward
What's next for Raf Simons Words Danielle Peterson Images InDital Images
When Raf Simons became the creative director for Christian Dior in 2012, he knew he would have big shoes to fill. Not only did he have the task of helping the brand recover from a controversy with former creative director John Galliano, but he also had to start his career at Dior with a couture show with all eyes of the fashion industry upon him. If there were any naysayers who thought Simons was not up to the task, they were silenced by his first show that wowed fashion critics and industry insiders alike.
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COUTURE
FALL 2015
L O O K I N G F O R W A R D • A R T I C L E • N O . 1 1
Flash forward three years, and Simons still awes and surprises critics with his modern take on a famed fashion house. However, few things surprised them more than Simons’ announcement in October that he would be stepping down from his role at Dior. The news seemed shocking because under Simons’ creative control the house flourished. For instance, Christian Dior Couture’s revenue rose 18 percent overall in 2012 and sales rose 60 percent since 2011. Furthermore, Simons’ designs have drawn in guests to the front row ranging from Rihanna to France’s former First Lady Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. Young starlets wore his designs on red carpets and showed up in droves to see what he would produce next. Everyone from Marion Cotillard to Kanye West was impressed with Simons’ work. During his time at Dior, Simons, who started his career studying industrial design, balanced sophistication, elegance and modernity. The role of creative director at Dior required someone who could strike a balance between past and future. It required someone who would look back and pay homage to the long legacy of one of the most well known names in luxury fashion and someone who could look forward and have a clear vision to lead the brand in to the future. Simons did both exceptionally well.
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SPRING 2013 COUTURE
DIOR
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SPRING 2015
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SPRING 2016
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DIOR SPRING 2016 RUNWAY
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"I'm usually very attracted to things that I can't define. I f s o m e t h i n g ' s t o o c l e a r, i t ' s very often not inspiring to me anymore." — RAF SIMSONS
The Belgian designer, who worked for six years as creative director at Jil Sander prior to taking the job at Dior, was inspired by everything from David Bowie and Andy Warhol to the Victorian ages and the South of France. He infused sexy with timeless and decadence with practicality. His runway shows became famous for extravagant set designs like floral walls and mirrored futuristic tents. He even brought Dior to Brooklyn, NY for his Resort 2015 collection where celebrities and designers alike flocked to witness the historic label leave Paris and head to the Brooklyn Navy Yard for a night.
there are reports that Simons felt constrained by limits and exhausted by expectations Dior placed on him. For instance, he could not redesign the stores to match the new modern feel of the clothing. He was also responsible for producing fashions for six shows a year with a very quick turn around on top of designing and managing his menswear line under his own namesake.
Aside from focusing on his menswear line, Simons has yet to announce if he will take on the lead at another fashion house, and Dior has yet to announce who it will pick as a successor. Although both stories hold a lot of uncertainty, it is clear that no matter where Simons Although it is hard to imagine how one can walk away goes next, his career will continue to bloom, much like from so much success in such a short amount of time, the flowers that adorned his final Dior runway show.
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F A S H I O N P I C K S • N O . 1 1
fashion picks
BEIGE PATEN
BLACK SEQUINS
LEATHER PUMP
SANDAL
BLACK, NAVY BLUE, IVORY AND RED LEATHER BOY CHANEL BAG
WHITE LEATHER MARY
BLACK LEATHER SANDAL
JANE SHOE WITH AN
WITH WOOD SOLE AND
INTEGRATED SOCK
AN INTEGRATED SOCK
ALL ITEMS CAN BE FOUND AT CHANEL STORES & ONLINE
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CRUISE 2016
CRUISE 2016
F A S H I O N P I C K S • N O . 1 1
LOOK 55 — JOSEPHINE LE TUTOUR
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P R O D U C T P I C K S • N O . 1 1
d ar k bea uty
4 7
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2
8
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1 rouge allure in rouge noir lipstick, 2 le vernis in vamp nail colour, 3 allure eau de toilette, 4 limited edition glossimer in entincelle, 5 limited edition quadra eyeshadow in signe particulier, 6 black resin bracelets inlaid with golden and silver leaves, 7 brown turtle shaped plexiglas clutch bag, 8 lllusion d'ombre in rouge noir, 9 limited edition le volume de chanel in rouge noir mascara
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P R O D U C T P I C K S • N O . 1 1
sub tl e ro m a n ti c
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1 limited edition rouge allure in vamporeuse lipstick, 2 limited edition le vernis in rose fusion nail colour, 3 chance eau vive, 4 limited edition glossimer in rose de lune, 5 golden metal cuff with resin patterns, 6 limited edition rouge allure velvet in la merveilleuse, 7 limited edition le top coat in lamé rouge noir nail colour, 8 pink plexiglas bracelet with resin flowers, 9 limited edition joues contraste in coups de minuit
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CREDITS
All images used in articles and features are credited along with each page they are featured on. All photographers featured own full rights to their images Quote on Letter from Editor Gilda Radner Fashion & Product Picks Courtesy of Chanel Raf Simons Article Runway & Detail — indigitalimages.com Zaid Affas Article Campaign Images Courtesy of Zaid Affas Back Cover Felix Wong
ONEMAG.US