Outdoor Japan TRAVELER - Issue 43 - Spring 2012 by Outdoor Japan

SPRIN G ISSUE 2012 43

Deep Turns IN TOHOKU

Spring Travel: A Blue Shade of Pink 春旅行：ピンクの青い木陰

Oshima Trail Running

大島で月を走る

Exploring Lush Kosrae

青々としたコスラエを旅する

Japan Journals

+ Spring Activity Guide ACTION

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ADVENTURE

■

OUTDOORS

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TRAVEL

I N S I D E O J T R AV E L E R

On the cover:

FEATURES

Deep Turns in Tohoku Photo by Paul Vanderheiden

10 18

A Blue Shade of Pink

Art Director Yuki Masuko Contributing Editors Wayne Graczyk, Eri Nishikawa, Takashi Osanai Administration & Distribution Rika Yamada

By Gardner Robinson

Illustration Eureka! Translation Makiko Brunetti, Kanae Kato, Kumiko Kurosaki, Junco Mitsui

Smiling Japan With Jup Brown

Contact Information: Outdoor Japan Inc. J-HANK Chigasaki B / 4-10 Heiwa-cho, Chigasaki-shi, Kanagawa 253-0024

Japan Journals

〒253-0024 神奈川県茅ヶ崎市平和町4-10

J HANK 茅ヶ崎B号

With Nick Hyne

By Craig Yamashita

Business Development Director Luke McDonald

青々としたコスラエを旅する Story & photos by Tim Rock

Tel: (0467) 81-3212 Fax: (0467) 81-3213

Cycling Japan By Takashi Niwa

Pedaling Across the Chubu Region: Toyoma Bay to Ise Bay

春の訪れ

中部縦断富山湾から伊勢湾へ

High Tide

By Mitsuharu Kume

Ossan Power

The Local Brew

OJ Creative: creative@outdoorjapan.com www.facebook/japantraveler www.twitter.com/outdoorjapan www.youtube.com/outdoorjapan

By Bryan Harrell

ブリマー・ブルーイング

Japan Angler

By Abdel Ibrahim

Good Eatin’

The Naked Stranger By The Naked Stranger

Episode 9: A winter ode to l’eau chaude

食い倒れ旅行

お湯のウィンターソング

4 From the Editor Contributors, Columnists & Cohorts

Editorial: editor@outdoorjapan.com Advertising: ads@outdoorjapan.com Subscriptions: subscribe@outdoorjapan.com Comments: comments@outdoorjapan.com

Brimmer Brewing

オッサンパワー

Editor William Ross

Deep Turns

Inside Out

Editor-in-Chief Gardner Robinson

ピンクの青い木陰 By Lee Dobson

Spring has sprung!

Publisher Outdoor Japan Inc.

Published Seasonally

大島で月を走る By Pauline Kitamura

Exploring Lush Kosrae

OUTDOOR JAPAN TRAVELER

Oshima Trail Running

8 Race and Events Spotlights 56 Spring Activity Guide

60 OJ Classifieds

Lifestyle Directory

Every Season a New Adventure

Make deep turns. Ride your bike.Take a bath. Ride a wave. Hit the slopes. Climb something. Explore. SPRING

2 0 1 2

FROM THE EDITOR

Contributors, Columnists and Cohorts

Gardner Robinson, Editor-in-Chief

hen the cherry blossoms bloom in Tokyo it feels like the entire city comes out of their collective shells, breathing new life into the city. Stroll through any park during peak weekends and the energy is palpable; you can’t help but get excited about spring and the start of the green season. Spring creeps up through southern Japan and slowly makes its way north, so if you missed your chance at hanami here in the Kanto area you can chase the blossoms north to beautiful countryside places like Hirosaki Castle in Aomori (P. 18). It’s now been a year since the events of March 11, 2011. There are positive signs for tourism in Japan, the JNTO announced February inbound numbers are up 12.9% from 2011. People are doing their best to move forward and Outdoor Japan had the opportunity to help produce a documentary focused on the lives of people in Tohoku and their courage in the face of such an unimaginable disaster. Our program, “Deep Turns” airs on April 27 on NHK World and JIBTV as part of the “FORWARD” documentary series. The story, about a mountain, the healing and destructive powers of nature and a foreign resident who formed a deep connection with the mountain

東

京の街を桜が彩るこの季節。まるで街全体が殻を破って、新しい生命を祝っているかのようだ。

and the people there, is featured in this issue (P. 36). Jup Brown has lived off and on in Fukushima for years and knows firsthand how the people in the area have suffered following last year’s earthquake. Many are still picking up the pieces of lives shattered by the aftermath. Although he describes himself as, “just your average Kiwi,” there is nothing ordinary about this guy. Jup is running the length of Japan, averaging 50 kilometers a day, to raise awareness and donations for people who still need our support (P. 48). And if you are still looking for Golden Week ideas, this epic winter, documented in our Japan Journals piece (P. 50), has provided some great spring skiing possibilities. There is plenty of snow left and many resorts are open through Golden Week. The big melt is feeding rivers that will whet your appetite for white water action or relaxing paddles in placid lakes. If you are ready for some island fun, jump a ferry and wake up in another world. Tokyo’s islands offer everything from scuba diving, surfing and some amazing trail running (P. 10). Now get out there and enjoy the season!

ポーリーン北村

Lee Dobson

リー・ドブソン

Takashi Niwa

Tim Rock

ティム・ロック

Bill Ross

ビル・ロス

Abdel Ibrahim

丹羽隆志

アブデル・イブラヒム

Bryan Harrell

Craig Yamashita

The Naked Stranger

Mitsuharu Kume

絆を築いたある外国人の話をお伝えしたい（P36）。長年福島に住んできたJup Brownは、地震の直後か

お花見シーズンの賑やかな公園を歩けば、エネルギー

ら、瓦礫の中を捜索する人々と共に震災の苦しみを目

に満ちた空気で満ちている。春の訪れに心が踊り、夏

の当たりにしてきた。“どこにでもいるただのニュージー

が待ちきれなくなる。惜しくも関東のお花見を逃してし

ランド人” 自分についてそう話すJupは、その言葉とは程

まったなら、ゆっくりと北上していく桜前線を追って美し

遠い人物だ。日本縦断チャリティーランニングを行い、

い田舎を旅してみよう。弘前城を目指してみるのはいか

義援金を募りながら復興支援のために1日50km以上を

がだろう（P18）。

走り続けている（P48）。

2011年3月11日、あの日から一年。日本の観光事情

ゴールデンウィークの予定がまだ決まっていないな

は回復の兆しを見せている。JNTOは、海外からの観

ら、Japan Journalsで最高の冬について（P50）読め

光客が昨年と比べて12.9％増とのポジティブな発表をし

ば、春スキーに出かけたくなるかも。ゴールデンウィーク

た。被災者の方々は日々前進しようと努力を続けられて

までオープンしているリゾートも沢山あるし、場所によっ

いる。アウトドア・ジャパンでは、未曾有の大震災を乗

ては雪もまだたっぷり残っている。雪解け水が山を下

り越えようと立ち向かう東北の人々の生活とその勇気を

り、迫力満点のラフティングや湖でのゆったりカヤックに

伝えるべく、ドキュメンタリー制作を行った。ドキュメンタ

も最高となるはずだ。島へと向かうフェリーに乗り込ん

リー・シリーズ”FORWARD” の一環として、 “Deep Turns” で別世界で朝を迎えるのも良い。東京の島々にも、スが4月27日、ＮＨＫワールド及びJIBTVで放送される。今

キューバにサーフィン、トレイル・ランニングと遊びが満

号では、私たちを守り、時に牙をむく山や大自然のパ

載（P10）。さあ、外に出て新しい季節を楽しもう！

ワーについて、そして土地の山々や人々との間に強い

editor@outdoorjapan.com

Pauline Kitamura

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ブライアン・ハレル

ハダカの異国人

クレイグ・山下

久米満晴

By Craig Yamashita Illustration by Eureka! Translation by Aya Aoki

Spring has sprung! 春の訪れ

For centuries, the changing of the seasons have been celebrated heartily in Japan, and none more so than the arrival of spring. Even today, spring ushers in the new school year and the fiscal year. However, this spring, keep a lookout for these lesser known harbingers of spring. Kanpai!

古来より日本では節分を丁重に祝い、特に春の訪れを重視してきた。現代でも学校や企業の新年度は春である。春の兆候は複数あるが、知られざる春の足音にも耳を傾けてみよう。

In April, the ubiquitous salaryman’s dark winter coat transforms into beige hued plumage. The reasons for this change is unknown, but one theory holds that it evolved to help the salaryman better blend in with the drab environment of the business districts the neutral-colored throngs inhabit, serving as camoflauge to prevent being spotted by superiors. 四月になると、普通族サラリーマン科は、暗色の冬毛からベージュなどの夏毛に生え変わる。変色の理由は不明だが、一説によると彼らの生息区域である色味の少ないビジネス街に適応し、目立たぬように群衆と同一化する為のカモフラージュらしい。

Hayfever Matsuri - Traditional lore tells of the pollen allergic oni , or demon, terrorizing children by sneezing all over them. Local children pelt the oni with tissues to protect themselves from hay fever. Festive nose-shaped cakes dusted with sugar "pollen", and rice cakes that symbolize red, watery eyeballs are some of the treats you can enjoy.

After spending the long, dark winter months playing games on the internet and subsisting on delivery bento, the otaku begins to emerge from their caves to forage for new Spring items in fast food restaurants. The best place for otaku viewing is Akihabara, as the streets are awash with otaku searching for food and potential mates.

花粉祭 : クシャミで子どもを脅かす花粉症の鬼や悪魔の伝承がある地域では、鬼にティッシュを投げつけて厄払いをする。祭では、砂糖で出来た “花粉” をまぶした鼻型のケーキや、赤い涙目を模した餅などが振舞われる。

長く暗い冬季をネトゲと宅配弁当で凌いだオタク族が、巣穴から出てバーガー店で春の新作を探し出す。食糧のみならず、二次元ではない将来のヨメを探すオタク族が集まるアキバは、絶好の観測ポイントである。

ザ・サーファーズ・ジャーナルのバックナンバーを今すぐGETしよう！

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各巻 ¥1,995（税込）購入は

第3号 1.3

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SPRING

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RACES & EVENTS

EVENT SPOTLIGHTS

01 2 2 ING 43 R P S SUE IS

Spring Adventure Racing

What Japan lacks in sheer size, it more than makes up for in diversity as the country, surrounded by ocean, has countless rivers and mountains that provide an amazing backdrop for multi-sport activities such as adventure racing and triathlons. Plan a trip around an event this year for a challenge, plenty of action and an unforgettable adventure.

Extremo Adventure Race Series 2012

Sea to Summit 2012 www.montbell.com

www.a-extremo.com/extreme/eventeng.html

This well-known one-day race series is perfect for beginners as well as for those looking for a good dose of excitement in Japan’s backcountry. Disciplines include trekking, mountain biking, rafting, canoeing, kayaking and orienteering as well as team challenges. One great thing about these races is the entry deadline is just ten days before the race – unheard of in Japan! Apr. 15: Race #1: Nakagawa Race at Nasu-karasuyama (Tochigi) May 12: Race #2 Okutama Race at Okutama Town (Tokyo) June 23: Race #3: Oze-hinoemata Race at Hinoemata (Fukushima) Sept. 8: Race #4: Okuoi Race at Kawana Honmachi (Shizuoka)

Montbell is Japan's top homegrown outdoor gear company and, apart from making great gear, they also put on some great multisport races where competitors start with their feet dipped in the ocean and finish enjoying a great view from atop a mountain. The events often include sea kayaking, cycling and hiking and welcome competitors with all levels of fitness who want to spend a great day outdoors. May 26-27: 大山/Daisen Sea to Summit 2012 (Tottori) June 16-17: 大雪旭岳/Asahidake Sea to Summit 2012 (Hokkaido) Sept. 8-9: 鳥海山/Chokai-san Sea to Summit 2012 (Akita & Yamagata) Sept. 29-30: 高津川/Takatsugawa Sea to Summit 2012 (Shimane) Nov. 23-24: 奥河内/Okukawachi Sea to Summit 2012 (Osaka)

Spring Skiing! Japan Ski Resort Guide www.outdoorjapan.com/snow

Once the sakura bloom in the city, it may feel like the snow season is over but, this year especially, it’s not by a long shot. Many ski resorts are open until after Golden Week and, if you haven’t enjoyed the joy of skiing under spring blue skies, then joining your friends for postski BBQ, you don’t know what you are missing. In fact, some resorts such as Yamagata’s Gassan or Niigata’s Okutadami Maruyama don’t even open until March or April, so you can ski almost until summer. High elevation places such as Hakuba in Nagano are a great place for spring snowshoeing. Get some exercise, enjoy a picnic and watch and listen to the mountains begin to come alive as the scenery begins to change from white to green.

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g n i n n n o Ru the Mo on hima s O in 大島

を走で月

る

itamu

ne K Pauli

o? y ? k n o T o o em no in h a t c l n o o v n 体験！ e u v r i 似 l o 疑 a on ike t l l i l イルで a e r レ t e f ト a 山 ing uld it z 活火 o a l w る b t r あ a Wh le fo 分？東京に t t e s u yo 気 Would 走ったらどんなで月の上

OKADA PORT 岡田湾

HINODEHAMA BEACH

日の出浜

THE SEASIDE NATURE TRAIL

シーサイド・ネイチャー・トレイル

OSHIMA NATURAL PARK

GOJINKA ONSEN MOTOMACHI HAMA-NO-YU OUTDOOR HOT SPRINGS 元町浜の湯

MOTOMACHI PORT 元町湾

THE TEXAS TRAIL

都立大島公園

御神火温泉

MIHARAYAMA TRAIL HEAD 三原山登山口

OSHIMA HOT SPRING HOTEL

テキサストレイル

OSHIMA ONSEN TRAIL HEAD 大島温泉登山口

大島温泉ホテル

MT. MIHARAYAMA 三原山

P.26 ◀ P.27 ◀

THE OHACHI MEGURI TRAIL

MT. KUSHIGATA

お鉢めぐりトレイル

THE OMOTE SABAKU TRAIL 表砂漠トレイル

櫛形山

MIHARA CRATER 噴火口

HABU PORT 波浮湾

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▶

P.28

▶

P.29

n a clear day, if you are standing on the beach of Sagami Bay, an island rises out in the distance. On a hazy day it is barely visible, yet getting there is a mere one-hour-and-40-minute boat ride. The volcanic island of Oshima is 120 kilometers south of Tokyo. The island is filled with wondrous scenery and astounding trails that will undoubtedly awe and impress even well traveled trail runners. In order to get a feel for the place, first look at the huge, stark black volcano in the center of the island. The volcanic mountain is called Mihara-yama (764m) or Mt. Mihara, and is the largest on Oshima. It majestically overlooks everything and everyone on the island, like a towering god. Usually, this serene mountain sleeps peacefully. However, every 35 years or so, it awakens to transform into a ferocious rumbling, red-hot lavaspitting ogre. The most recent eruption was in 1986, and it was big enough that the entire island was completely evacuated. This volcano, one of the most

active in the world, is both the creator and destroyer of the distinctive land features and unique trails that crisscross Oshima. So where should you start exploring? While it’s possible to begin your hike or run from the very bottom of the mountain, most people who visit the island make their way up by bus or taxi to one of two trail heads located near the top of the mountain – the Mihara-Sancho Trail Head and the Mihara-yama Hot Springs Trail Head. From here you can climb to the top of Mihara-yama. The summit is essentially a central hub from which trails radiate out in all directions toward the ocean. There are many fantastic trails you can explore, but the four introduced here—the Ohachi Meguri, the Omote Sabaku Desert course, the Texas Hiking course, and the beautiful Seaside Nature Trail—are particularly impressive with diverse scenery ranging from black volcanic pyroclastic rock to lush green forests.

よ

く晴れた日、相模湾のビーチからはるか彼方にその島

独特の地形と島中を走るユニークなトレイルを創造し、破壊

は見える。もやのかかった日にはぼんやり見えるだけ

してきたのである。

だが、その島までは船でたったの1時間40分。東京から南

それではどこから探検を始めようか？もちろんハイキング

に120kmのところに位置する火山島、大島の景色はどこを

やトレイルランを山の麓から始めることも出来るが、島を訪

取っても素晴らしく、経験豊かなトレイルランナーでさえ感激

れるたいていの人は、山頂近くにある二本の登山道入り口（三原山頂口と三原山温泉口）までバスまたはタクシーを

してしまうトレイルでいっぱいだ。ここがどんな場所なのか、まずは島の中心にそびえ立つ

利用する。ここから山頂まで足で登ることになる。

黒々とした巨大な火山を仰ぎ見てほしい。三原山（標高764

山頂は、基本的に海に向かって放射線状に伸びる複数

ｍ）と呼ばれる大島最大のこの山は、まるで神のごとく島の

のトレイルの中心部分にあたる。行ってみたい素晴らしいト

すべてを見下ろしている。

レイルはたくさんあるが、ここではお鉢めぐりコース、表砂漠

今は静かに眠っているこの穏やかな山は、およそ35年の

コース、テキサスハイキングコース、そして海岸遊歩道の4

周期で眠りから覚め、恐ろしい唸り声を上げ真っ赤な溶岩を

本のトレイルを紹介しよう。黒い火砕岩から緑の鮮やかな森

まき散らす怪物に変身する。直近の1986年の噴火の際に

まで変化に富んだ風景が楽しめて特に印象深いコースばか

は、島民全員が島外に避難するほど大規模なものだった。

りである。

世界でも最も活発な火山の一つに数えられる大島は、その

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CRATER TRAILS

ース

ぐりコ ail お鉢め Tr ri 3時間) u g e M i / 6 km、2～ The Ohach s, 2 - 3 hours y 6 kilometer

(approximatel

噴火口トレイル

ne of the most popular trails on Oshima is the Ohachi Meguri – a short but impressive trail taking you right around the top of Miharayama. The easiest way to get there is from the Mihara-yama Trail Head (you can take a bus or taxi up to the trail head). Here you’ll find a cozy tea house (Gojinka Chaya) with superb views of the volcano as well as several gift shops for the tourists who, by the way, come by the busloads. There are washrooms, a rest area with benches, and even a police station here. From the lookout area, you’ll see a single asphalt road cutting across the barren landscape. The route is simple. Just walk down the hill and

take the long, straight road across a lava field. Once you reach the foot of the mountain, the road winds its way up toward the summit. It’s short but steep, so trod slowly, making sure to look back from time to time to check out the incredible vistas below. Once you reach the top, in the middle of a cluster of jagged lava formations, you’ll see a Japanese torii – the gateway to the sacred Mihara Shrine. Take the stairs down to the shrine and look around. During the last eruption, molten lava oozed its way down the mountain, destroying everything in sight. Legend has it though, that when the lava reached this shrine, it miraculously

大

島で最も人気の高いトレイルの一つがお鉢めぐ

頂上に着くと、ギザギザに尖った溶岩の塊の真ん中

りコースだ。長くはないが、三原山頂をぐるりと

に鳥居が見えるはずだ。神聖な三原神社の入り口であ

回る素晴らしいコースである。一番簡単な行き方は、三

る。神社に向かって階段を降りて周囲を見渡すと、前

原山頂口から。登山口まではバスかタクシーで向かう。

回の噴火の際に溶けた溶岩が山から流れ出し、目に見

登山口には火山の眺めが最高なじんまりとした茶店（御

えるものすべてを破壊したのが分かる。言い伝えによる

神火茶屋）や、バスでやって来る観光客のための土産

と、溶岩がこの神社に達した時、その手前で二手に分

物屋をはじめ、トイレとベンチの置かれた休憩所や、交

かれたためこの神社は無傷で残ったと言われている。言

番まである。

うまでもなく、この三原神社は大島に暮らす人々の信仰

展望所からは、殺風景な荒野を横切る一本の道路が

の対象となっている。

見える。ルートは簡単、坂を下って溶岩地帯の間を長く

メイントレイルから外れ、山の中心に向かう脇道に立

真っすぐに伸びる道をただひたすら進むのだ。山の麓から

ち寄って、恐ろしい噴火口から蒸気が立ち上る穴を覗い

道はくねくねと曲がりながら山頂を目指す。距離は長くな

てみるのも忘れずに。お鉢めぐりコースはよく整備されて

いが傾斜が急なので、ゆっくり歩いて時々後ろを振り返り、

いて歩きやすく、火山の頂上からの360度の眺望は息を

眼下に見える素晴らしい景色を確認するのを忘れずに。

呑むばかりである。

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parted and flowed around it, thus leaving the shrine intact. Needless to say, this Mihara Shrine is considered an object of worship by the people of Oshima. From the main trail, make sure you also take the short “detour” route up toward the center of the mountain where you can peer down into the scary, steaming hole of an impressive crater. The Ohachi Meguri Trail is well maintained, making it a relatively easy hike, and the 360-degree panoramic views from the top of this volcano are breathtaking.

BLACK DESERT RUNNING

ス表砂漠コー

abaku Trs a/ il約7 km、3～5時間) The Omote S ur y 7 km, 3 - 5

(approximatel

黒砂漠

n the south foot of Mihara-yama is an area called “Omote Sabaku” or “front desert.” The most exciting way to reach the trail, in my opinion, is to dash down from the top of Miharayama, hollering and whooping in ecstatic delight. Unlike hard-packed dirt trails, the “trails” here are crumbly granular lava rock, and the trick is to keep your balance while letting your feet comfortably sink and slide with the rocks as you descend. As its name accurately reflects, every which way you look, the land spreads out in front of you like a remote barren desert and, if there’s one word that jumps to mind upon seeing this, it’s

三

原山の麓の南側のエリアは表砂漠と呼ばれる。

“freedom!” Walking (or running) counter-clockwise around the mountain, you’ll be treated to views of the regal Mihara-yama on your left and the ocean and Izu Islands floating in the horizon on your right. You’ll also pass by an old concrete foundation of a roller slide, a remnant from the 1930s heydays. Back then, Oshima used to be a busy place, hustling and bustling with people and motorcars. Famous artists and writers, sea-faring sailors, fashionable young ladies and a ton of tourists all flocked to this popular island destination. One of the main “attractions” other than the 通り過ぎる。

このコースにたどり着く方法で筆者がお勧めする

当時の大島は人々や車がひっきりなしに行き交うよう

のは、三原山頂から大声で歓声を上げながら駆け下りる

な場所で、有名な芸術家や作家、羽振りの良い漁師や

ことである。

お洒落な若い女性、それに多くの観光客がこの島を目

踏み固められた土のトレイルと違い、このトレイルはもろ

指して集まった。

いザラ目状の火砕岩なので、身体のバランスを取りながら

火山以外にこの島で人気が高かったのは、三原山を

足を付いた時に砂利の上で滑らせるのが降り方の秘訣。

一気に滑り降りるローラースライドだった。当時スリルを

表砂漠では、その名の通り見渡す限り不毛な砂漠の

求める者にとってはたまらないものだったはずだが、鉄不

ような風景が広がり、これを見て心に浮かぶのは「解放

足に陥った戦時中に撤去されてしまい、今日私たちが見

感」という言葉である。

ることが出来るのはコンクリート製の基礎だけで、あとは

山麓を時計と反対回りに歩くか走ってみれば、左手

volcano was a super long roller slide that zipped you down the mountainside. Certainly a must-do for thrill seekers at the time. Unfortunately, the metal roller slide had to be dismantled during the war when Japan ran into a shortage of steel. So today we’re left with only the concrete foundation and our imagination. As you make your away along the trail, the unbelievable vastness of it all will make you begin to wonder whether you’re really in Japan… or perhaps on the moon. The sky, the desert, the mountains and, oh, the views. The views!

想像を膨らませるしかない。

には堂々とした三原山が、右手には水平線に伊豆諸島

トレイルを歩いていると、その広大さに圧倒され、ここ

の浮かぶ海が見え、同時に栄華を誇った1930年代の名

が本当に日本なのか、あるいは月にいるのではないかと

残のローラースライドの古いコンクリート製の基礎の横を

思ってしまうほど。空と山と景色、素晴らしい景色である。

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SUMMIT TO SEA

ル

レイテキサスト 3～5時間) il a Tr s a x s / 約7km、 ur Te ho e 5 Th 3 s, er et 7 kilom ely

(Approximat

頂上から海へ

hen a Japanese person imagines what the Lone Star State of Texas is like, perhaps the barren scene here is what comes to mind. Most likely named for its spacious, ranch-like setting, the land near the top is a mountain made of black volcanic rock with not a tree in sight. But the real beauty of this trail is the amazing change you’ll see as you descend from the top of Miharayama toward the ocean. First, you’ll pass through a sea of black lava rock, frozen into weird eye-catching formations for eternity (or at least until the next eruption). As you descend further, you’ll start to see a few hardy looking plants and some low growing shrubbery

お

here and there. The more you descend, the more trees you’ll find, until finally you’ll find yourself running through a beautiful green forest with the sound of the ocean ahead of you. The trail ends at the Oshima Park where there are more than 10,000 Japanese camellia trees planted and bright red and pink camellia flowers blooming between the months of January and March. There are not that many trails in the world where you can experience the various ecosystems of an island in one descending swoop, and the dramatic change as you go from the very top of the island all the way down to the sea is fascinating to see and experience.

そらく日本人がテキサス州はどんなところかと想像

に見え始め、下るにつれて木の数も増えてくる。そして

した時、この荒れ果てた土地が思い浮かんだの

気づけば美しい緑濃い森の中を走っており、前の方から

ではないだろうか。名前の由来になったと思われる広大な牧場のような土地の頂上付近は黒い溶岩に覆われ草木一本さえ生えていない。だが

海の音が聞こえてくるのだ。トレイルのゴールは大島公園。１万本以上のツバキの木が植えられ、1月から3月にかけて鮮やかな赤やピンクの花を咲か

このトレイルの素晴らしいところ

せる。一つのトレイルを下るだけで、こ

は、三原山頂から海へ向かって

こまで多様な生態系を体験できるコー

下るにつれ、景色が大きく変わることである。下り始めは黒々とした溶岩の海が

スは世界中を探してもなかなかない。島の頂上から海まで一気に下るまでの劇的な変化は感動的である。

永久に（少なくとも次の噴火の時までは）続くかと思われるような異様な風景が目につくのだが、やがてたくましい植物と背の低い茂みがそこかしこ

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SEASIDE STROLL

遊歩道

岸自然 ature Trahoilurs海/ 約4 km、 1～2.5時間) N e d si a e S e Th 1 -2.5 s,

y 4 kilometer

(Approximatel

海岸遊歩道

n the northeastern side of the island, there is a lovely Seaside Nature Trail perfect for hiking and trail running. The gently undulating dirt trail takes you over cliffs overlooking the ocean, between rows of Japanese Black Pine, and underneath beautiful camellia tree tunnels. The path darts in and out of the forest, opening up from time to time to reveal the crashing waves below.

ACTS OSHIMA F

島

の北東部にある海岸自然遊歩道は、ハイキングやトレイルランに打ってつけの

トレイルである。なだらかな起伏のある曲がりくねった土の遊歩道は、崖の上

から海を見下ろし、クロマツ並木の間や美しいツバキのトンネルの下を抜けていく。道は森の中を出たり入ったりして、時おり視界が開けて下の方に砕ける波が見える。

shima, which translates into “Big Island” despite only being nine kilometers wide and 15 kilometers long, is the largest and most populated of a group of islands collectively called Izu Shichito (or Izu Seven Islands). These islands are in fact officially a part of Tokyo but, as anyone who’s been there will quickly realize, entirely a world away from the busy neon metropolitan. Oshima is renowned for its beautiful bright red Japanese camellia flowers that blossom in early spring and for its excellent diving spots during the summer. The island’s centerpiece however, is undoubtedly Mihara-yama, the live volcano that sits right smack dab in the middle of the island. In September 2010, the island of Oshima was officially designated as a UNESCO Geopark.

大

島は「大きな島」という意味だが、実際には横9km、縦15kmの小さな島で、伊豆七島と呼ばれる島群の中では面積としても人口の面でも最大の島である。伊豆七島は公式には東京都に所属するが、一度でもここを尾訪れた者は、ネオンの眩しい大都会とは全くの別世界だということに気付く。大島は、初春に美しく咲く真っ赤なツバキの花と、夏期のダイビングスポットとして有名である。しかしここの中心は紛れもなく三原山で、この活火山は島の真ん中に鎮座している。2010 年9月に、大島は正式にユネスコのジオパークに指定された。

Total area / 総面積: 91 km2 Size / 広さ: 9 km. east to west, 15 km. north to south / 東西9 km、南北15 km Circumference / 周囲: 52 km. Population / 人口: 8,483 (as at April 1, 2011) / 8,483人（2011年4月1日現在） Highest Point / 最高点: Mihara-yama, 764 meters / 三原山 764 m

Photo courtesy of Tokai Kisen

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GETTING THERE / 行き方 The fastest and most convenient way to get to Oshima is by high-speed jet boat. A slower but cheaper alternative is to take the overnight ferry that leaves Tokyo at night and arrives in Oshima early in the morning. If you want to get there quickly, there are ﬂights from Haneda Airport to Oshima as well. 大島への最も速くて便利な行き方は、高速ジェット船だ。もう少し時間が掛かるが安いのは、東京を夜に出発し大島に朝到着する夜行の客船である。本当に早く行きたいのならば羽田から飛行機も出ている。

High-speed Jet Boat / 高速ジェット船 Travel time: 1 hour, 45 minutes Departing from: Takeshiba Sanbashi Pier, Hamamatsucho, Tokyo, as well as Kurihama, Atami, Ito, Tateyama 所要時間: 1時間45分、久里浜・熱海・伊東（神奈出発地: 竹芝桟橋（浜松町）川県）、館山（千葉県）

Ferry / 大型客船 Travel time: Approximately 4 - 6 hours Departing from: Takebashi Sanbashi Pier, Yokohama, and Shimoda See the Tokai Kisen Web site for schedules and fares. 所要時間: 4～6時間出発地: 竹芝桟橋、横浜、下田時刻表と料金については東海汽船HPを参照のこと Web: www.tokaikisen.co.jp/english/ Tel: 04992-2-5522 By Plane / 飛行機 Travel time: 40 minutes Departing from: Haneda Airport 所要時間: 40分出発地: 羽田空港 ANA Domestic Flight Reservations Tel: 0570-029-222 Web: www.anawings.co.jp

GETTING AROUND / 現地の交通手段 Bus / バス Oshima Bus / 大島バス Tel: 04992-2-1822 Web: http://oshima-bus.com

HOT SPRINGS / 温泉 Opening times vary depending on the season. Please check the hot spring websites for hours of operation. 季節により利用時間が異なるため、営業時間をウェブサイトでチェックのこと。

Taxi / タクシー Oshima Koutsu / 大島交通, Tel: 04992-4-1392 Nagaoka Koutsu / 長岡交通, Tel: 04992-2-2691 Car Rental / レンタカー Izu Oshima Car Rentals / 伊豆大島レンタカー Tel: 04992-2-2691 Toyota Rent-a-Lease /トヨタレンタリース Tel: 04992-2-1611 Kaiyou Car Rentals / 海洋レンタカー Tel: 04922-2-2740 Nihon Car Rentals / 日本レンタカー Tel: 04992-2-3039 Bicycle Rental / レンタサイクル Ramble Rental Cycle /ランブルレンタサイクル Tel: 04992-2-3398 Asami Bike Rentals / 朝海貸し自転車 Tel: 03992-2-8407

RECOMMENDED ACCOMMODATIONS 宿泊施設

Asami-kan / 朝海館東京都大島町岡田字助田58-1

Gojinka Hot Springs / 御神火温泉 A spacious hot springs onsen facility with a 25-meter pool and sauna. 広々とした温泉施設で、25mプールとサウナも併設。東京都大島町元町字仲の原1-8 Tel: 04992-2-0909 Web: www.town.oshima.tokyo.jp/highlight/gojinka.html Motomachi Hamanoyu / 元町浜の湯 Watch the sunset over the ocean in this open-air hot spring. Bathing suits required. 露天風呂から夕陽が楽しめる。水着着用のこと。東京都大島町元町字トンチ畑882

Tel: 04992-2-1446 Web: www.town.oshima.tokyo.jp/highlight/hamanoyu.html

WEB CONNECTION / ウェブサイト

Oshima Tourism Association / 大島観光協会 www.izu-oshima.or.jp/ Oshima Town Ofﬁcial Site / 大島町オフィシャルサイト www.town.oshima.tokyo.jp/ Oshima Navi / 大島ナビ www.oshima-navi.com

Tel: 04992-2-8407 Web: www.asamikan.com Izu Oshima Onsen Hotel / 伊豆大島温泉ホテル東京都大島町泉津字木積場3-5 Tel: 04992-2-1673 Web: www.oshima-onsen.co.jp/index.html

Izu Oshima GeoPark / 伊豆大島ジオパーク www.izu-oshima.or.jp/geopark/ Tokyo Islands / 東京島 www.tokyo-islands.com

Adventure Divas Pauline Kitamura is the founder of Adventure Divas, a company that runs trail running, hiking, multi-sport and adventure tours in Japan. Web: www.adventure-divas.com

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e u l B A e of d a h S son

Dob By Lee

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“Mine has been a life of much shame” —— Dazai Osamu, 1948 (From his book No Longer Human, or Ningen Shikkaku)

「恥の多い生涯を送ってきました」（1948年太宰治著『人間失格』より）

k n i P

木陰い青のピンク

ardly a quote with which to launch a thousand ships, and nor did it. It was these words however that inspired me to take an interest in Honshu’s northernmost prefecture, Aomori—the land of blue forests. A quick search resulted in an image of an area unkempt and wild, much like its native son, Dazai.

ク

リストファー・マウローの戯曲に登場する「千の船を出陣させた顔」という表現さながら、

太宰のこの一文は、僕に青森の地への興味を抱

かせるに十分だった。青森県には、この地出身の太宰と良く似た荒々しい自然が手つかずの状態で残っている。南に秋田県と岩手県が隣接し、津軽海峡の向こうには北海道を望む、本州最北の県だ。

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omori is bordered by Akita and Iwate prefectures to its south, and faces Hokkaido to the north across the Tsurugu Strait. Tsuguru is also the name of one of the two ben (dialects) spoken in the area, with the other being nambu-ben. The dialects are both unique to northern Japan, with a majority of Japanese not having a clue what is being said. The unusual language adds to the feeling of isolation, but its lyrical sound makes it pleasurable to hear. It was a treat to sit in a hot bath and listen to the locals chat and enjoy it for nothing more than the sound. For most of its prolific history, Aomori was little more than forests and coastline. Apart from the few hearty farmers and hunters who inhabited the area, it was a place to escape the populaces in the southwest part of Japan. In 1871 the Meiji government took an interest in the locale and changed it from its former name of Mutsu Province to what we know it as today. Fishing, farming and forestry drive the local economy, with Aomori apples enjoying a claim to fame as some of Japan’s best. After 1945, Japan went through a “lost” period, as she tried to come to terms with her post-war place. It was interesting that two prominent figures who played key roles in redefining the nation should both come from such a remote area. Dazai Osamu, the pseudonym of Tsushima Shuji, was born the 10th child of 11 in Kanagi, Goshogawara, in the northwestern part of Aomori. Master novelist and storyteller Dazai was a literary hero and voice to millions. His novels and short stories, often biographical, were gritty, depressing and caught the mood of many at the time.

青森県では、津軽弁と南部弁の２つの方言が話されている。現地の人以外には理解不能な東北独特の強い訛

Farther south another figure to affect Japan’s post-war period was born in the castle town of Hirosaki. Ishizaka Youjiro, born in 1900. A veteran correspondent of the war, Ishizaka took a different approach to Dazai and showed the nation how it could be, rather than how it was. His novel, Aoi Sanmyaku or Blue Mountain Range, was hugely popular, and it played an influential role in introducing the idea of a new Japan. Unfortunately, few of Ishizaka’s novels have been translated into English, but they inspired a frenzy of movies that helped Japan climb out of its slump. Given it was early May, and the cherry blossoms had yet to shed their petals, I decided to visit the town that spawned a post-war hero, and take in the famous cherry blossoms of Hirosaki Castle. Hirosaki is/was Japan’s northernmost castle town, located on the Tsugaru Plains, a short distance from Akita’s northern border. The town sprang to life in 1571 after local warlord Oura Tamenobu declared himself independent of the Nambu clan and seized power in the area. In 1590, after assisting Toyotomi Hideyoshi in the battle of Odawara, Tamenobu was rewarded with large parcels of land in the area and confirmed as the local daimyo. At that time he changed his name to Tsugaru.

In 1603, Tsugaru began construction on Hirosaki Castle, only to stop a year later after his death in Kyoto. Construction resumed in 1609, under Tsugaru Nobuhira, and it was completed in 1611. From all accounts it was an impressive structure before nature rendered splendor moot by means of a lightning strike on a stormy eve in 1627. The ensuing fire quickly engulfed the powder magazine, with the resulting explosion destroying the original six-story, five-roof structure. The three-story structure that stands today was built in 1810, by the ninth daimyo, Tsugaru Yasuchika.

作風で、時に自伝的でもあった数々の名作を遺して民衆

しまう。1609年に息子の津軽信枚が引き継ぎ、弘前城は

から大きな支持を得た。

1611年になってようやく完成を迎えた。

りは、辺境の地らしい情感を漂わせ、その叙情的な響き

もうひとりの人物は、1900年弘前市生まれの石坂洋次

元々あった5重6階の立派な天守は、残念ながら1627

が耳に心地良い。聞こえてくるローカルの話し声を純粋に

郎。陸軍報道の経験も持つ石坂は、太宰とはまた違った

年の嵐の夜、落雷によって炎上し、その炎が火薬に引火

楽しみながら温泉に浸かる時間は、なかなか贅沢なもの

アプローチで民衆に新たな未来を示した。大流行した代

したため大爆発を起こし、消失してしまった。現存の3重

だった。まあ、話の内容は全く分からなかったけれど。

表作『青い山脈』は、民主主義の啓発に大きな影響を及

の天守は、1810年、第9代藩主津軽寧親の代になって建

長い間、青森は豊かな森と海岸線に守られた静かな土

ぼした作品だと言われている。残念なことに石坂の作品

築されたものだそうだ。

地で、屈強な百姓や狩人が住みついてきた以外には、南

はあまり英訳されていないが、多くが映画化され、日本の

西部から未開の地を求めてやってくる人が少しいるくらい

戦後復興の大きな一歩となった。

だった。 1841年、明治政府による廃藩置県の詔によって、陸奥から青森県が誕生した。漁業、農業、林業といった第一次産業が主力で、なかでも青森のりんごは日本有数の知名度を誇る。

ふたりの英雄を生みだした街を巡り、花見スポットとして有名な弘前公園を訪れることにした。5月初旬だというのに、桜の花はまだ散っていなかった。

1871年には明治政府の手に委ねられ、大日本帝国陸軍部隊の分営が置かれた際に多くの建物や城壁が取り壊されてしまった。そして1894年には藩主の申し出によって城址が公園として一般開放されるようになった。今では、4月終わりから5月初旬にかけて毎年2600本

弘前は日本最北の城下町で、秋田県との県境からほど

の桜が見事に咲き誇る。日本屈指の花見スポットとして知

近い津軽平野に位置している。城主大浦為信は、1571年

られ、毎年100万人を越える来場者が訪れている。開場

に南部一族を攻撃しこの一帯を支配した。1590年には、

時間は、9時から17時まで。弘前城への入園料は300円

本の再興に関わった重要人物ふたりが、青森のような辺

豊臣秀吉の小田原征伐に参陣し、秀吉より所領を安堵さ

で、それに弘前城植物園と藤田記念庭園の共通入園券

ぴな土地から誕生したことはなかなか興味深い。

れ地元大名となったのだという。この年から、大浦為信は

がついたものが500円で発売されていて、桃色に染まっ

姓を津軽と改名している。

た見事な景色を満喫できる。

1945年以降、敗戦国として戦後の復興期を迎えた日

太宰治（本名、津島修治）は、11人きょうだいの10番目の子として、青森県北西部にある五所川原市に産まれ

1603年、津軽為信は弘前城の建設に着工したが、建

4月23日から5月5日まで行われる弘前さくらまつり期間

た。太宰の文章は時代の風潮を捉えた、真に迫る深刻な

設途中の1607年に京都で死去したため、一旦中断されて

中は、夜10時まで開園していて、ライトアップされた幻想

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In 1871, the castle was handed over to the new Meiji government and, after being garrisoned by the Imperial Japanese Army, it was largely dismantled with a number of buildings and most of the walls being taken down. In 1894, the site was donated by the Tsugaru clan to the government for use as a park. A total of 2,600 cherry blossom trees breathe life and vitality into the grounds each year at the end of April and early May, and they give canvas to one of Japan’s most picturesque scenes. The view is enjoyed by more than a million visitors, from when the grounds open at 9 a.m. to closing time at 5 p.m. The admission fee of ¥300 (¥500 for both the castle and botanical gardens) is well worth it, as you get to feast your eyes on one of Japan’s finest displays of pink petals. During the cherry blossom festival which runs from April 23 to May 5, the grounds stay open as late as 10 p.m. to give one plenty of time to enjoy the spectacular light-up. Stick around after the lights dim, and you are treated to the sight of dozens of locals pitching in to clean up the rubbish for the next day. Stalls provide ample opportunities to sample local fare. Hirosaki is more than just its cherry blossom festival; being home to some fine examples of Renaissance-style architecture Japan has to offer. Hirosaki is also the hometown of popular manga artist Nara Yoshitomo, noted for his drawings of moody and sometimes evil-looking “cute” kids. Hirosaki is but the tip of a tourist iceberg, showing just a glimpse of what Aomori has to offer. What a stylish glimpse it provides. ✤

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的な桜並木を楽しめる。ライトが消えるまでブラブラしていると、地元の人たちが次の日の為にゴミ拾いに精を出す姿に出会うはずだ。並んだ屋台では、地元ならではの美味しい食べ物が並び、土地の食文化に触れるいい機会でもある。もちろん弘前市は、さくら以外の見どころもたっぷりだ。日本でも珍しいルネッサンス様式の建造物は有名だし、独特な“コワかわいい “少女の絵で有名な世界的ポップアーティスト奈良美智の出身地でもある。弘前市は、青森県の溢れる魅力のほんの氷山の一角に過ぎない。粋な青森を、是非是非ご自分の目で確かめて頂きたい。 ✤

Getting There The Shinkansen now runs up to Aomori City and, once you are there, just jump on the limited express train, Tsugaru, and it will see you in Hirosaki around 30 minutes later. All in all, Hirosaki is a five-hour train ride from Tokyo, thanks to bullet train access. From Hirosaki Station, take the Dotemachi Loop Bus for 15 minutes and get off at Shiyakusho-mae bus stop. Accommodation can be pretty scarce during the cherry blossom season, so it may be worth looking at places to stay in either Aomori City or Akita. There is plenty of bus or train access from both places.

アクセス東北新幹線で、新青森まで一直線。そこから津軽方面に向かって特急電車で30分走ると弘前駅に到着する。東京から弘前市までは約5時間の電車の旅。弘前駅から弘前城に行くには、土手町循環バスに乗り込み、15分程先の市役所前バス停で下車。さくらまつり期間中、宿泊施設はどこも混雑が予想される。バスや電車の便が良いので、青森市や秋田に宿泊して巡るのも良いだろう。

Web Connection Hirosaki City: www.city.hirosaki.aomori.jp/index.html Aomori Prefecture: www.pref.aomori.lg.jp Travel Info: www.hyperdia.com/en/

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上げ潮じゃ H I G H T I D E By Mitsuharu Kume

「オッサンパワー」 Ossan Power

「今見せる時なんだ」

こそ、オッサンパワーを

と、熱く語ってくれた。そして、ど

現状を多くの人に知って欲しい

ていた。

この言葉を発したのは、 FUKU- んなに偉い研究者に話を聞いても、福島の未来が見えないと嘆い

のサーフィン仲間。彼の子 SHIMA 供は、見えない放射線から逃れる

ため奥さんとその土地を離れ、彼

も起こりうる。種子島の人と共に

やろうと決めて僕は島に帰り、いたことがあった。津波はどこで

この地震から学べる事は学び、命

はひとり福島に残っている。みん

のために、今よりもっといい福島

無駄にしてはいけない。

を落とした方々のその“死 ”を

なが帰って来れるようになった時

に生まれ変わらせようと胃腸炎

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開なのだ。

SPRING

になりながらも福島でパワー全

in Tanegashima, the island in southern Japan where I live. Five months after the March 11, 2011, earthquake, I in turn went to visit him. With Geiger counter in hand, I went to where he was living. He brought me to an onsen ryokan run by his friend. It was there that a number of people who had lost their homes to the tsunami, or whose homes were in the high radiation areas, were living. We got into the rotenburo (outdoor hot spring) and talked for hours. Many people who wanted to know about the actual conditions in Fukushima, but there was very little information. He spoke passionately to me about this for hours. He lamented that, even though he had listened to noted researchers, he had no clear vision of the future for Fukushima. When I returned to my island, I decided there was something I could do. A tsunami can happen anywhere. Together with the people of Tanegashima, we could learn a lesson from the earthquake, so that the deaths of the thousands of people in Tohoku would not be in vain.

僕は彼のサーフィン仲間で大学准教授の方と彼を島に招いて、

「上げ潮じゃ、上げ潮じゃ」（日本で物事がいい方向に進むとき

短い滞在期間に講演を３か所で

に使う古い言葉）。

お願いし、また、ゆっくりサーフィ

トと全てにずば抜けて上手く、

彼に初めて出会ったのは、僕が「日本一周天ぷら油の旅」

ショップを経営、スノーボードブ

自分は日この大震災を通して、本人だ、と思った。地球が校舎で、

（２００７写真のスライドショー

主催などにも精力的に活動し、

ランド立ち上げの他イベントの

組という同じクラスメート。いろ

世界の人々が生徒だったら、日本

として海に入れない暮らしをし

多くの人に慕われている。そんな

んな人がいて、みんな仲間。

ンも楽しんでもらった。海の仲間

彼との交流が続き、僕の暮らす

人犬２匹を乗せ、天ぷら油を燃

日本の南の島、種子島に遊びに来

彼のような人が今も暮らしていることを、忘れちゃいけないし、

を日本全国でやろうと、家族４

てくれたこともあった。そして、あ

だったのだ。

の震災から５ヵ月後、僕は彼を

少しでも力になりたい。そして、

ている彼らの精神状態も心配

訪ねた。ガイガーカウンターを持

日本組をとてもいいクラスにした

料にしたバスで半年間旅をした）

ち、一人で暮らす彼のところへ。

い。そんな思いで多くの人が動き

で福島に寄ったときのこと。彼は

友人がやっているという彼は、温泉旅館に連れていってくれた。

被災地以外で暮らしているオッサン達よ、日頃は若者に煙た

ow is the time to show ossan power,” said a surfing friend of mine from Fukushima. His wife had taken his kids and left Fukushima to escape the invisible dangers of radiation. He chose to stay and now was alone in Fukushima. Despite some stomach problems, he was putting all his energy into building a better Fukushima for the future — the day when everyone would return again. Ossan refers to men like him — men in their 40s and 50s, not yet ojisan, but who in some ways had reached the peak of their life. I had first met him in Fukushima in 2007, when I was doing a nationwide slide show called Nihon Isshu Tempura Abura no Tabi (A Trip Around Japan on Tempura Oil). The show covered the half-year trip the four members of my family and our two dogs took on a bus powered by tempura oil. He was an expert at snowboarding, surfing and skating. He was running a shop and had started his own snowboard brand. He was very energetic and beloved by many. T hat meet ing s ta r ted off a lively relationship. He had come to visit me down

スノーボード、サーフィン、スケー

放射線量が高く家に帰れない被

そこには家を津波で流されたり、

そオッサンパワー見せつけよう

がれているかもしれないが、今こ

出している。

災者が静かに暮らしていた。露天

じゃないですか。

風呂に入り、長い長い時間話を

した。届いていない福島の本当の

“N

We invited another surfer, who was an associate professor and also friend of my Fukushima fr iend, to visit us in Tanegashima. He gave three shor t presentations about life in Fukushima after the disaster. We also enjoyed some peaceful surfing sessions together. As fellow people of the sea, we were concerned about the mental state of those who were afraid to return to the ocean. “Age shio ja, age shio ja.” The tide is rising, things are moving in the right direction—so goes the old saying. The earthquake has really strengthened my feeling of being Japanese, of understanding we are all classmates in the school life, learning the lessons the Earth teaches us. We should strive to do our best. We can’t forget that there are people like my friend living in Fukushima. There are in fact a lot of ossan living there and they sometimes get a bit of teasing from younger people in Japan. Yet, we should do what we can to help them build a better future for Japan. Now is the time for us to show our ossan power.

Rock Story & photos by Tim

EXPLORING LUSH 青々としたコスラエを旅する

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Island Beat

Japan Islands–Micronesia

KOSRAE Most people haven’t heard of this little Pacific island, but those who visit never forget hiking to hidden waterfalls, searching an endemic forest for a lost city, snorkeling a maze of mangroves or diving amidst rich corals and sharks. 太平洋に浮かぶ小さな島、コスラエ。その存在はまだあまり知られていない。原生森の中の美しい滝や遺跡探検、マングローブの迷路でのシュノーケリング、豊かな珊瑚礁とサメたちに出会えるダイビング… それは、決して忘れられない旅になるだろう。

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KOSRAE

ocated in the north-central Pacific, Kosrae is part of the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) and is a true gem. Many of the people here lead a natural lifestyle. It is not unusual to see men in dugout canoes paddling out to fish. Women use woven items to carry fruits to market. Riding a bamboo raft with the incoming tide at an inlet is a great source of fun and thrills for adventurous children. The other states in the FSM are the capital of Pohnpei, Chuuk (Truk Lagoon) and Yap. Each state has developed unique cultural characteristics. For instance, in Kosrae, the Congregational Church plays an extremely important role in everyday life, while in Chuuk clan relationships remain an important factor. Over the last 15 years, Pohnpei has rapidly developed as the most westernized state, but it still retains a great many local customs. Even though the national government is located here, traditional leadership continues to play an important role.

HISTORY & HIKES For pure nature and great daytrip adventures, Kosrae is the destination. The island has dense jungle, and even the mountains are covered in jungle. There are remnants of WWII located high in these hills as well as the reminders of Kosrae’s ancient past.

The Menke Ruins is a long hike and, to best see the entire area, one should plan on camping out in the jungle overnight. The temple of the Goddess of Breadfruit, Sinlaku, is here, and this is where she spent her last days before fleeing to Yap prior to the arrival of the missionaries in 1852. The Menkes are the oldest such ruins in FSM and perhaps even the entire Micronesian sub-region, pre-dating both the Lelu ruins in Kosrae and Nan Madol in Pohnpei. What is perhaps the best feature of the Menke ruins is the Menke Valley itself, which holds the pure and untrammeled Menke River. Easier to get to and explore, Kosrae’s famous Lelu Ruins sit in town not far from a seaside chapel. Considered one of the wonders of the Pacific huge basaltic slabs and arranged neatly, they make 20-foot walls that encompass what was once an ancient capital. The Lelu Ruins were an active ruling metropolis through the latter part of the 19th century. The genesis of these ruins of large basaltic walls, channels, streets, tombs and living quarters dates back to the 13th century.

FALLS & FOREST Jungle waterfalls await visitors and include the Sipyen Waterfall, a refreshing 30-foot cascade of mountain water that attracts bathers and SPRING

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photographers. Located in Utwe, the waterfall offers a small bathing pool at the bottom. Getting there is a rocky, but short, five-minute walk. Forest lovers will want to see the Yela Ka Forest with its newly completed boardwalk. Yela offers a pristine series of tropical island ecosystems and is one of the last roadless areas in the Pacific, remaining largely closed to the public. At the center of the area is something to behold; a freshwater swamp dominated by hundreds of towering endemic Ka trees (Terminalia carolinensis). These trees have been referred to as the “Redwoods of Micronesia.”

CORAL REEFS One of the island’s greatest attractions is Kosrae’s outer barrier reef. It is a blend of aquas and greens. In places, the reef plunges deeply close to shore. Signs of development are few on Kosrae, and the rugged ridges of the heavily jungled mountains dominate the shoreline residences. Today, each has special features that make these dive destinations unique. Kosrae has been pretty much off the “snorkeled path.” Dive exploration here is not much more than a decade old. Adventurous pioneers such as Doug Beitz at Kosrae Nautilus Resort have been having a good time exploring while awaiting the masses to discover these undersea

Island Beat

Japan Islands–Micronesia

太

平洋中北に位置するミクロネシア連邦の州のひと

のみならずミクロネシア地域全体でも最も古い遺跡だと言

のバリアリーフだ。紺碧とグリーンが混ざったそのサンゴ礁

つ、コスラエ州。宝石のように美しいコスラエ島で

われている。そしてこの遺跡の何よりの見所は、透き通った

は場所によって岸のすぐ近くまで伸びている。コスラエには

メンケ川が流れる、美しいメンケ谷の風景と言えるだろう。

まだ開発の手が伸びておらず、海辺の家には深いジャング

の暮らしは自然と共にあり、丸木舟で釣りに出かける男たちや、果物を織り物に入れて市場まで運ぶ女性たちの姿を良

メンケ遺跡よりアクセスが簡単なレラ遺跡は、海辺の教

く目にする。冒険が大好きな子どもたちは竹のいかだに乗っ

会からそう遠くない場所に位置している。巨大な玄武岩が

コスラエ島のダイビングスポットはそれぞれがとても個性

て入江の波で遊ぶのがもっぱらのお気に入りだ。

積み上げられた高さ約７メートルの壁が古代都市をぐるりと

的だ。シュノーケリングスポットとしてもあまり脚光を浴びるこ

ルに覆われた山の険しい尾根が目の前に迫る。

囲むこの遺跡は太平洋の謎のひとつと呼ばれる。19世紀

となく、ダイビングの歴史としては10年もない。コスラエ・ノー

チューク州（トラック諸島）、ヤップ州の計4州から構成され

後半まで存在した古代王国の遺跡であり、巨大な石壁や

チラスリゾートのダグ・ベイツの様なパイオニアは、私たち

ており、それぞれが独自の文化を持っている。コスラエでは

運河、墓、住居などは遥か昔、13世紀に建設されたものだ

がその海底の宝石をみつけるずっと前からここで最高の探

キリスト教の影響が色濃く、チュークでは首長制度が現在

と考えられている。

検をしていたということだ。

滝＆森

とんどの台風の東側に位置するため、あまり台風の影響を

ミクロネシア連邦は、コスラエ州に加えてポンペイ州、

ここのサンゴ礁はおそらく太平洋で最も元気なはずだ。ほ

でも重要視されている。この15年でポンペイ州の経済は急激な欧米化を遂げ、連邦の首都機能をはたすようになった。

受けないバラエティ豊かなサンゴ礁は、そのサイズと共に、

とはいえ、島にはまだすばらしい伝統的な風習が残り、族長を主とした風習も根強く残っている。

歴史＆ハイキング

ウトウェのジャングルにある涼しげな、落差約10メートルの

生物学者にはたまらない場所となっている。そして、ここで

シピエンの滝は写真撮影はもちろん、滝のふもとにある小さ

は広大なマングローブが豊かな生態系を作り出すのに一役

なプールでの水浴びにもってこいのスポットだ。岩道に注意

買っている。

しながら、5分程で滝つぼまでたどり着ける。手付かずの自然を満喫したい人にとって、コスラエ島は

森林好きにおすすめなのはイエラ・カ・フォレスト。最近

コスラエでは、メインとなる道路でさえ島一周しないわけで、その開発の遅れのおかげでサンゴ礁が素晴らしい姿を

ぴったりの目的地だ。山の上まで続く熱帯雨林のジャング

出来たばかりのボードウォークを歩くと、熱帯の島らしい様々

残している。こういったサンゴ礁は、外洋の環礁でしか見ら

ルをかき分け登っていくと、第二次世界大戦中の防空壕や

な生態系を見ることができる。ここは太平洋の中でも人があ

れないようなものばかりだ。魚も多いコスラエ島は、島中に

コスラエの歴史を物語る遺跡が現れる。メンケ遺跡までの

まり近づくことのできない残り少ない場所の一つでもある。

係留ブイとラインを張り巡らしており、その取り組みはミクロ

道のりは長く、じっくり堪能するには、ジャングルで一晩キャ

このエリアの中心には、ミクロネシアのアカ杉とも呼ばれ

ンプをしながら進むのが良いだろう。ここにはかつて「シンラ

る「カ」の木々がある。淡水の沼にそびえ立つこの木々の

ク」というパンの実の女神を祭る神殿があり、1852年に宣

光景は驚くべきものだ。

せない。海に飛び込んだその瞬間、赤や黄色に美しく咲き

珊瑚礁

はずだ。浅い海では、イソギンチャクに戯れて珊瑚や藻をつつくブ

るレラ遺跡や、ポンペイにあるナンマドール遺跡よりもっと以前から存在していたと考えられており、ミクロネシア連邦

ダイビングでは、ヒロシ・ポイントへのボートトリップは外乱れる珊瑚礁の周りを悠然と泳ぐ魚たちが出迎えてくれる

教師たちがやって来る前にヤップ島へと逃げるまでこの土地で過ごしたとされている。メンケ遺跡は、同じコスラエにあ

ネシアでもトップクラスなのだそうだ。

コスラエ島の一番の見所と言えば、なんと言っても外洋

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ダイたちの姿に出会える。水面からたった5メートル程の深さ

KOSRAE

gems. The island is famous for amazing hard coral reefs which are possibly the healthiest in the Pacific. The variety and size of these reefs, located east of most typhoon disturbances, is a biologist’s delight. The extensive mangroves add to the healthy formula for diversity. The lack of development on Kosrae (the main road doesn’t even go all the way around the island) keeps the reefs in superb shape. They are the kind you expect to see at an outer atoll. Fish life is plentiful, and Kosrae has the finest mooring buoy program in Micronesia, with sites around the entire island with well-maintained buoys and lines. For diving, don’t miss heading to Hiroshi Point by boat, so you can get right to the wall and start looking for action. The sloping drop-off at Hiroshi is covered in beautiful corals adorned by hovering fairy basslets in brilliant magentas and yellows. A good variety of sea anemones and the shallower waters produce schools of parrotfish that roam the reef munching on corals and algae. Sand rays rest in the white sand flats, and big coral bommies come to within 15 feet of the surface, making this an ideal snorkel site and a great place for novice divers to enjoy a truly beautiful reef. Or try Walung Dropoff for an amazing coral display of absolutely huge and varied coral heads and big bunches of colorful Christmas tree worms. Morays

hide within the cracks and crevices created by these thick, competitive corals. Fantastic regal angelfish, absolutely brilliant flame angels, blackback butterflyfish, ornate butterflyfish, midnight snapper and a whole collection of other reef fish make this a superb spot for fish-watchers. Check out shrimp and octopus if the fish life gets too much to handle. The spectacular thing is that all of this is found in the 40-to-60-foot range. Deeper dives also produce sightings of sharks and schooling bigeye jacks. The current is usually minimal here, making it a fine snorkeling site as well.

MANGROVES ABOVE & BELOW For a very, very strange (can you say surreal) diving and snorkeling experience, try Dwarf Forest. This dive is done in a unique brackish marine area that exists between the ocean and the inner mangroves. A trip through the mangrove forest is like a visit to another world. Whether you are diving, snorkeling or just exploring, you follow meandering channels covered by a majestic canopy of mangrove trees. Wildlife abounds. Fish swim lazily through the teacolored water, and birds chatter in trees above. Mangrove forests surround the island of Kosrae and are a place of beauty and solitude. The SPRING

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mangroves are not quite sea and not yet land and provide important environmental benefits to the island. Because the mangrove forest is rich with life, it is an important resource for the people of Kosrae. The trees provide timber, the channels are a protected transportation network, and their waters are a favored place to fish. Enter the water here, and you will see looming overhead magnificent mangrove trees. Below, hard corals, odd but brilliant sponges and tunicates and silvery moon fish live among a maze of tangled roots. The dive is shallow, so one can weave carefully under the trees and within the roots to reveal a natural light show. Kosrae offers fine dive shop facilities, equipment, training and dedicated dive resorts. Kosrae is a religious island and all businesses close on Sundays—by law. Diving is not permitted but it is OK to snorkel. This is a good day to take a hike into the pristine jungle or just read a book by the sea. New things are happening here all the time. Surfing is a “best-kept secret” and kayaking is becoming popular. If you are looking for an out-ofthe-way adventure, a place teeming with nature, this Micronesian outpost awaits. ✤

Island Beat

Japan Islands–Micronesia

でも、白砂にもぐるエイや巨大な珊瑚礁が見えるので、ダイ

でいて、島の環境に大きな恵みを与えている。豊かな命を

ビング初心者やシュノーケリングを楽しみたい人でも、見事

育むマングローブの森は島の人々にとっても大きな恵みと

な海の世界を十分楽しめる。

なっている。材木源としてはもちろん、水路は大切な移動

ワラン・ドロップオフでは、バラエティに富んだ巨大な珊瑚礁が素晴らしい。イバラカンザシの群れや、生き生きとし

経路であり、静かな流れは魚の宝庫となる。水に潜れば、上に浮かぶのは雄大なマングローブ木々。

た立派な珊瑚の陰に隠れたウツボの姿。ニシキヤッコや、

水中にはサンゴ、ホヤやギンカガミが、絡まりあった根の間

とびきりかわいらしいエンジェルフィッシュ、アケボノチョウ

を泳ぐ。水深はどこも深くないので、自然の光が照らし出す

チョウウオ、ハナグロチョウチョウウオ、ホホスジタルミ……

迷宮に迷い込まないよう注意して潜ろう。

挙げればきりがないほどの珍しい熱帯魚たちに迎えられて、夢の世界へ。もちろんお馴染みのエビやタコも登場してくれるはずだ。

コスラエ島には、ギアやトレーニングコースを揃えたダイビングショップも充実している。コスラエは宗教の影響が強い島なので、日曜日には店は全て閉まってしまう（法律で決め

透明度の素晴らしいこの海では、こんな豊富な海の生物

られているそうだ）。日曜はダイビングも禁じられているが、シュ

たちに、水深10 ～ 20メートル以内で出会えてしまうのだ。もっ

ノーケルはOKだ。割り切って原始の森へ探検に出かける

と深く潜ればサメや雄大なギンガメアジの群れにだって遭遇

か、ゆっくり浜辺で読書をする日にするのが賢い選択だろう。

できるはず。潮の流れはわりと弱めで、シュノーケリングスポッ

ここでは日々新しい出来事が起こっている。実はサーフィ

トとしても十分楽しめる。

ンの隠れた極上ポイントでもあるし、カヤックの人気も急上

マングローブ樹林

るならば、ミクロネシアのこの小さな島に、答えが待っている

昇中。豊かな自然の中でまだ見ぬアドベンチャーを捜し求めかもしれない。✤ 他ではちょっと味わえない一風変わったダイビングとシュノーケリングを楽しみたい人にお勧めなのが、ドワーフ・フォレスト。ここは海の珊瑚とマングローブが共存している野生生物の宝庫。マングローブの森はどこか別世界を旅しているような気分にさせてくれる。ダイビングでもシュノーケリングでも、曲がりくねるマングローブの水路をたどれば、静かな流れの中をのんびり泳ぐ魚たちが見え、森に響き渡る鳥たちのさえずりが聞こえるだろう。コスラエ島を取り囲むマングローブの森は美しさと静けさの象徴である。マングローブは海でもなく、陸でもなく、それ SPRING

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Island Beat Japan Islands–Micronesia

GETTING THERE: Travel to the FSM is available via Guam or Hawaii through United Airlines. Kosrae is serviced twice weekly. A number of airlines ﬂy daily to Guam from Japan. TIME: Kosrae is GMT +11 hours. ELECTRICITY: Standard 110-volt and U.S.-type outlets are used. Currency, Banking and Credit Cards: The U.S. dollar is the official currency. There are several U.S. FDIC insured banks operating in the FSM. Most major credit cards are welcome at most visitor-oriented businesses. WHAT TO WEAR: Travel light. It never gets cold in FSM, so only lightweight clothing should be brought. Attire is very casual and formal wear is considered unnecessary and impractical. Hats, sunglasses and sunscreen are recommended when enjoying the sun.

HOTELS: Kosrae Nautilus Resort: www.kosraenautilus.com

アクセス：ミクロネシア連邦へは、グアムかハワイ経由でユナイテッド航空が飛行機を出している。コスラエまでのフライトは週に2回。時差：GMT＋11時間電圧：電気は110ボルト。差し込みプラグは日本と同じ形態。通貨、両替、クレジットカード：米ドル。FDIC(連邦預金保険公社)に保証されている銀行がいくつかある。主要なクレジットカードは、ほとんどの旅行者向け施設で利用できる。服装：一年中暑いため、軽装でOK。正装もとてもカジュアルなので、必要ナシ。日除けの帽子とサングラス、日焼け止めは忘れずに。宿泊：コスラエ・ノーチラスリゾート: www.kosraenautilus.com

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Good Eatin’ 食い倒れ旅行

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t’s a frosty weekday morning in early February on the Tsushima Strait. The wind is blowing, and the ocean swells are tossing the boat around like a rubber duck. To top it off, no matter how accurately I cast, the tuna I’m after are ignoring my plug as they feed on small pods of squid hanging at the surface. What appears to be a 30-kilo blue fin flashes as it picks off one of the unfortunate cephalopods, and I jokingly console myself with the thought that at least I’m not in danger of being eaten alive. We have a good four hours of fishing left before heading to port. I know the Buri (seriola quinqueradiata) will show us some love and bite our lures late in the afternoon. Meanwhile, instead of making my nerves bad trying to trick the spooky tuna into biting, I opt to curl into a ball inside the cabin and catch up on sleep. Not too soon into my semi-slumber, my mouth starts watering, and I realize why I really came to Kyushu despite the fact I absolutely hate fishing in cold weather. The food. One thing I like about Japanese outdoor enthusiasts—not just anglers—is they know how to turn around any so-so to downright rotten day by adding hot springs and good eats to the equation. On lousy fishing days such as today, I can at least look forward to a bout of full-sensory culinary indulgence on a scale I can’t experience outside Japan. When I first began running with my fishing

sempai, Yoichi Mogi, he half-jokingly and half-disparagingly told me how a lot of the guys he makes trips with will happily catch one or two fish to take home and spend the rest of the trip lounging about or engaging in lad-ish hi-jinks. “Aitsura, enkai no tame ni kuru kara, shoganai.” “Those jackasses only come for the banquet.” Nowadays I’m growing into the mold myself it seems. Every fishing trip to Kyushu starts with an evening run to Hakata for motsu nabe (beef intestine hot pot) and ends with a big bowl of Hakata-style ramen. These dishes are must-haves for anyone visiting Kyushu, but what really gets our mouths watering are the meals prepared for us at the tiny island inns where we crash after fishing. To many westerners the notion seems strange, but the appeal is never knowing what you will be served, but being sure it will blow your taste buds away. This trip we’ll gorge on a main course of wild boar sukiyaki the first night, followed by a slew of the freshest tuna, whitefish and squid sashimi the second night. For me the sight and taste of translucent slices of kawahagi sashimi and the heaping pile of uni sitting atop my ochazuke will outlive any memory of the few fish I pulled onto the boat. My wife says, considering how much I enjoy stuffing my face, it may behoove me to forego fishing for a life of “foodie” tours.

することにした。うとうとと夢の世界に吸い込まれそうな時、

月初旬、凍える対馬海峡のとある朝。強い風とうねりが、ボートをおもちゃのアヒルのようにもてあそぶ。そ

ふいによだれが溢れて来た。そうだ、寒空の釣りが大嫌い

の上、どんなにピッタリの場所に釣り糸を投げ込んでも、マ

な自分がわざわざ九州までやってきた理由を忘れるところ

グロたちは水面近くで泳ぐイカの群れに夢中のようで僕の

だった。うまいものを食べるためだった！

ルアーには見向きもしてくれなかった。目の前で30キロのク

釣り人だけじゃなく日本のアウトドア好きは皆、イマイチ

ロマグロが不運なイカめがけて

な日も最悪だった日も、最後には温泉やうまいもので全て

豪快に突っ込む様子を見

をチャラにする術を知っている。今日のようなひどい日だっ

て、あいつに生きたまま

て、日本以外では絶対に体験できない、五感をフルに刺

食べられないだけまだましか……と自分を慰めてみた。港に戻るまで、あと

激してくれる魅惑の料理が僕を待っている。昔、僕の釣り先輩の茂木陽一さんが冗談混じりに話してくれたことがあった。彼の釣り仲間は、おみやげ用に何匹か釣り上げたら、後はのんびり過ごすかどんちゃん騒

たっぷり4時間は残っ

ぎで盛りあがる。「あいつら、宴会のために来るんだから、

ている。午後には優し

しょうがないね」どうやら最近の僕も、その仲間入りをしそ

いブリがルアーに食い

うな気配だ。

ついてくれるはず。おっかないマグロを食いつかせ

九州への釣りトリップは、いつも博多のモツ鍋に始まり、博多ラーメンで幕を閉じる。九州に行ったならこのふたつ

るための試行錯誤に神経を

は絶対に外せない。そしてそれよりもよだれモノなのは、釣

すり減らすのは止めて、そ

りを終えて小さな島の民宿で出てくる夕ご飯。西洋人に

れまでキャビンでひと眠り

とっては不思議なことかもしれないが、何が出てくるかは民宿まかせ。けれどどんなメニューでも、ご心配なく。決してあなたの舌を裏切ることはない。僕らの今回のメニューを紹介しておこう。最初の夜はしし鍋がメインで、二泊目にはマグロ、白身魚、イカ等の新鮮な刺し盛り。透けるようなカワハギの刺身と、大盛りのウニが乗ったお茶漬けは、その日のしょぼい釣りの記憶をかき消してしまうパワーを持っていた。僕の奥さんに言わせると、完全に釣り旅行って言うより食い倒れ旅行、だそうだ。

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Deep Turns By Gardner Robinson This Hakkoda Mountains in northeastern Japan are a place of incredible beauty. Over the years locals have gained a healthy respect for these temperamental mountains, whose moods swing from gentle to terrifying on a whim. Paul Vanderheiden was drawn to the Hakkodas for the deep powder they are known for. He formed a deep connection with the mountains and the people in this far corner of Tohoku, never imagining life would take such a dramatic turn. The story "Deep Turns" is part of a documentary series chronicling the lives of people in Tohoku affected by the events of March 11, 2011. The program will be aired on April 27 on JIBTV and NHK World.

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“D

uring winter, the weather in Hakkoda is merciless. Pretty much every day is a complete whiteout. When I was still learning how to be a guide on the mountain, my sempai (teachers) would aimlessly ride into the whiteness, or so it seemed to me. I wondered what was the matter with these people; how they knew the terrain so well was a mystery to me. “It seemed liberating to be able to know the entire mountain in the back of your head. So I wanted to memorize the mountain as quickly as possible,” says Hiroshi Soma who runs the Hakkoda Sanso Lodge and is the Lead Guide at the Mt. Hakkoda Guide Club. “When the sun comes out, my jaw drops at how beautiful is the scenery. But my sempai would say, 'Now is the time to study the mountain. Look and memorize.' They would always say the beautiful scenery should be appreciated, but these days are rare, so this is the time to study,” he adds.

Mt. Hakkoda The Hakkoda Mountains rise just south of Aomori City, the capital of Aomori Prefecture. The area is a natural playground for outdoor lovers throughout the year. Locals have gained a healthy respect for the Hakkodas, especially in winter when weather conditions can change in an instant. Masamichi Kaimori knows these mountains better than just about anyone; he’s been a guide in the Hakkodas for more than four decades and has trained many of the guides on the mountain today, including Soma. He’s guided the Royal Family in these mountains for 28 years, and he and other earlier guides explored and discovered many of the trails. “It wasn’t as difficult as you might think,” he says. “At night, while drinking, we would have a map out and draw a line with a red pencil where it looked like fun. If the weather was good, we’d go out. “If customers we were guiding wanted to come along, we’d tell them, ‘Sorry in advance if we fail, but if we succeed you will be part of discovering a new trail.’ That’s how, day by day, we increased the number of trails. So it wasn’t actually all that tough,” he modestly states. Back in the day most of the winter touring was done in spring, when the snow pack was more stable and there were more sunny days. In fact the Hakkoda Ropeway, which opened in 1968, didn’t start operating in winter until later. In mid-winter, day after day of seemingly bottomless snow falls on these mountains and there are few clear days. Giant trees, frozen in twisted shapes, watch over the pristine white slopes like guardians of the Hakkodas. Certain mountains in Japan, however, carry weight within the community of skiers and snowboarders who love riding backcountry powder. Hakkoda’s location near the top of the

Tohoku region, in northeastern Honshu, means you must be dedicated to travel to this relatively remote region of the country to get your powder fix. Yet the sheer amount of snow is unrivaled, and when the skies break after a big storm, powder junkies come with beacons packed, powder boards and fat skis in hand, waiting for the first ropeway to claim fresh lines. The weather here can change in the blink of an eye, so it’s wise to also have a healthy respect for the mountain. It’s also prudent to go with a guide, unless you have a lot of experience in the backcountry and firsthand knowledge of the mountain. “The main difference between Hakkoda and other mountains is the snow is not packed or groomed. There are many ski resorts in Japan, but Hakkoda is extreme. There is no mountain like it in Japan,” says Takanori Fukuchi, manager of the Hakkoda Ropeway. “There are routes you can call proper courses but, unlike other resorts where they deforest the mountain and show you exactly where the course is, at Hakkoda there are only orange poles to help guide you to these relatively easier routes down the mountain. The two basic courses are called Forest Course and Direct Course. Apart from these (basic courses), you can pretty much venture anywhere you want on the mountain. There are also regular touring routes but, if you are with a guide, the mountain can be limitless,” he points out. “It seems like a ski resort, but it's not," says Soma. "No, it is not," agrees Kaimori. "If you are an avid skier at a resort, and you want to try this mountain and test the powder off the basic tour routes, the most important thing is to hire a qualified guide and follow his lead. Unlike most resorts where they flatten the terrain, here there are naturally formed traps. There are huge tree wells you can easily fall into, the wind can create big cornices out of trees, and one can easily fall into a crevice. You don't get this kind of experience at a normal ski resort,” Kaimori adds. The most famous example of just how merciless these mountains can be occurred on Jan. 23, 1902, when two infantry regiments of the Imperial Japanese Army set out to traverse Mt. Hakkoda. They soon became lost and disoriented in a blizzard as they desperately tried to find their way out of the mountains. This routine winter training exercise would later be known as the Hakkoda Death March claiming 199 lives with just 11 survivors. “When the snow really gets deep, the mountain can play tricks on you. The more you try to climb, the more you are actually descending. Even if you try to cut diagonally across the mountain, the snow can be so deep you aren't able to. Instead, you gradually drop further down the valley,” Kaimori explains.

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“You can only comprehend this after you have experienced it yourself. Otherwise, you will keep advancing in the wrong direction, getting more and more lost,” he states.

West Meets East To the east of the Hakkodas lies a small, but significant town, Misawa. In 1938 Japan built an airfield in Misawa; however, since 1945 it has been in American hands and is the only joint service base in the western Pacific, home to U.S. Army, Navy and Air Force, as well as Japan’s SelfDefense Forces. In March of 2009 an American, Paul Vanderheiden, found himself moving here with his wife Meghan, a dentist and captain in the U.S. Air Force. The young couple had Japan on their wish list for overseas assignments and, although they were heading to one of the coldest and most isolated regions of the country, they couldn’t wait to get there. "We were super excited when we found out we were coming to Japan. We knew Japan had really good snow, but it was the culture that drew us here. They give you a 'dream sheet' so to speak, of places you’d like to go, and Misawa was on the top of our list,” says Paul. “We've lived in the mountains and near the beach for the past 10 years, so for us, starting a family, we really wanted to live in the country, and we like small towns, so coming to Misawa was kind of the perfect fit for us. “As soon as I found out we were coming to Misawa, I immediately got on the Internet and started doing some research. I checked out the area, ski resorts and backcountry (mountains) and the first thing that came up in Aomori was Hakkoda. It's kind of a legendary place as far as backcountry and really deep powder, and not many people go there," he remembers. Once they were moved into their house off-base, Meghan settled into her new job, and Paul found a part-time job at a local elementary school. Misawa is a hybrid town where inaka meets Americana. You step off the base, and you’ve got great TexMex, Italian and sports bars. Head a few blocks in another direction, and there are hot springs and traditional Japanese restaurants. Go deeper into the countryside, and there is no limit to the outdoor fun to be had. Paul felt as if he had the best of both worlds; the convenience and support of the base, while experiencing the real Japan. He began exploring the area and discovered he could surf year-round (although it is cold in winter) and snowboard six months a year at Hakkoda. Paul soon hooked up with a local snowboarder, Eisaku Mukai, and started making more frequent trips to the mountain. It didn't take long for him

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to have his first “Hakkoda Experience,” which he describes as “having to dig yourself out of a hole, tree well or some other natural trap Mother Nature throws at you.” During his first two seasons at Hakkoda, he discovered a tight-knit local community of backcountry enthusiasts and knowledgeable guides. He also recognized the mountain was a formidable place for foreign visitors or people from the base who didn’t have a lot of experience skiing in the backcountry. Paul had studied snow and avalanche safety back in Arizona and Colorado and wanted to use the skills he developed to help visitors ride the Hakkoda backcountry safely. “I decided I wanted to start Japow Tours (www. japowtours.com) because I felt there was a small niche for people coming from overseas to Hakkoda who wanted to ride a lot of powder in the least amount of time. At Hakkoda, you can get lost in two or three turns so, if you don’t go the right way, you can end up in a creek or a box canyon,” he points out. Before he started guiding, Paul made a conscious effort to get to know and learn from the local guides at Hakkoda. Even now he usually checks in at Hakkoda Sanso Lodge before he goes on a tour to get some insight on the weather or conditions in certain areas from the guides who go out every day. He’ll also find out where the other groups are going that day, so he doesn’t take the same route. “The other Japanese guides — such as Somasan from the Hakkoda Guide Club — are legends; they know the mountain better than anybody, and I am basically a guest in their mountains, and I fully respect that,” he says. “Paul comes to greet us every morning and night to say 'Yoroshiku.' That’s the kind of guy he is. As a foreigner, an American, Paul is very modest. Almost Japanese-like. He has Japanese friends, and I feel like he really fits in here. I also think he respects his surroundings and the locals," says Soma.

March 11 March 11, 2011, was one of those amazing powder days at Hakkoda. Japow Tours was keeping Paul busy, but he would make a point not to schedule tours on certain days, so he could be with his friend Mukai just to ride. They rode hard all morning, tearing up the 30-40 cms. of fresh snow. Paul headed to the parking lot to switch boards when things started shaking and people ran out of the ropeway station. He set his board against his car, but it fell over, then suddenly all the cars in the parking lot started jumping around in their spaces. Driving back toward Misawa, they stopped at the first convenience store and saw the line was out the door; people were taking everything off

the shelves. That’s when he knew something was really wrong. Power was out at their house for a while, so it wasn’t until two or three days later, when they were able to get some Internet access, when they realized the magnitude of the disaster. While the Tohoku area they had grown to love was being broadcast into living rooms around the globe, Paul and Meghan faced some tough decisions. Their son Christian was just 20 days shy of his first birthday when the earthquake hit. He would take his first steps the day after. Meghan had to stay in Misawa for her job, but Paul and Christian had the option of being evacuated to the U.S. The family needed to decide whether to split up or stay together in Misawa. “We chose to stay as a family. We really felt safe staying here, especially in the area of Tohoku where we were, and we wanted to help with the Japanese community as much as we could,” Paul says. Meghan added, “We just decided as a family we wanted to stay together, we did feel safe, and we wanted to help with the humanitarian effort. There were a lot of places within a 15-minute drive really hard hit, and we wanted to help rebuild.” “I felt 100 percent safe and 100 percent comfortable with our decision,” she says. “We were very well connected. The base was constantly updating us; multiple times a day, on the status of the water testing they were doing. They were doing air testing, testing all the planes coming in and going out, and they would inform the community on what they found. “But, I think one of the hardest things was watching people in the community struggle with resources; gas, kerosene…because we were provided al lot of that on the base.”

Rebuilding The base was organizing and running several missions a day. According to Meghan they would go as far south as Noda nearly every day. “One time we went to the Hachinohe seaport where there were huge tankers overturned. The entire seaport section was just devastated. There was muck, huge mud piles waist-deep, fish parts, and the fishing wire and nets were all over everything, so you had to pull that out,” said Paul. “On another outing to help with the cleanup in the tsunami-hit areas, we went to a town just 10 minutes from Misawa, called Oirase, right along the coast. They had a bunch of strawberry fields and strawberry farms,” he says. “It was just a local farmer, and he didn’t have a very big plot of land, but what he had was completely leveled,” Meghan adds. “Basically we tore down the green houses and ripped it up so they could replant the strawberries. It probably would have taken them two weeks of

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work that we did in eight hours. You know, I think there were 30,000-40,000 man-hours of volunteer work done within a 100-mile radius of Misawa,” Paul states.

Moving Forward A few months after the disaster, although rebuilding efforts were far from over, it was time to look to the future. People needed to go back to doing what they loved so they could move forward. For Paul that meant getting back to the mountain. “We were like, we gotta move forward and do something for ourselves, because you just get so stressed out thinking about all the bad things that can happen, and not all the good things that you have right here on our doorstep. “The first day I went snowboarding was so good for me. My morale after just one day snowboarding kept me going for another week after that,” Paul beams. “Both the American military and the local Japanese community in Misawa really tried hard to return to normalcy. They went on with festivals as planned. I think it really was good for the morale of everyone. “I think this last year, I mean, anytime a big tragedy happens, it makes life that much sweeter. It really makes you appreciate the good days, and makes the bad days seem not so bad,” says Meghan Nature is a real part of life in Japan. Typhoons and earthquakes, even volcanoes, occur regularly. The colorful seasons are celebrated vigorously and often. Nature in all its beautiful and terrifying forms has contributed to making the country and the people so strong. This past winter has been one of the best snow years in recent memory. Paul’s overseas customers have left Tohoku satisfied, having gotten their fill of Hakkoda powder and the many refreshing hot springs in the area. “Just being able to be up here and share this mountain with the Japanese locals, and show foreigners around has been a really cool experience. You know this is the real Japan, this is the countryside, the traditions; it’s a pretty special place,“ Paul affirms. It’s been a year since the disaster and although winter stubbornly clings on, it’s a new spring in the Hakkodas. The relentless storms begin to subside, making way for more sunny days ahead. “What I still love about Hakkoda is that the base of the mountain is very gentle,” says Kaimori. “It feels like the mountain wraps around your body. I feel a sense of relief when I enter. When I am stressed I go into the bamboo forest where no one else would come and lay face down on the ground. I spend about an hour doing nothing and, before I know it, all the confusion in my head goes away. That’s what kind of mountain it is.” ✤

JIBTV PRESENTS THE DOCUMENTARY SERIES ‘FORWARD’ The earthquake and tsunami on March 11, 2011, caused tremendous damage across a wide area of eastern Japan. The nuclear power plant meltdown made the situation even worse. People around the world were horrified by the aftermath but also inspired by the survivors’ quiet courage. The “FORWARD” documentary series demonstrates the determination to recover from the devastation. “DEEP TURNS” was produced by Cipher Communications, SET Japan and Outdoor Japan Media. For program schedule and live streaming, please visit the JIBTV and NHK WORLD Web sites. FORWARD: DEEP TURNS On Air Date: April 27 (Friday) On Air Time (JST): 1:30 a.m., 5:30 a.m., 9:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., 5:30 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. JIBTV: www.jibtv.com/special/forward/en.html NHK World: www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/

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Cycling Japan:

A JOURNEY TO EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL LIFE

By Takashi Niwa Translated by Sakae Sugahara

サイクリング—それは土地の暮らしを感じる旅

ROUTE

START!

TOYAMA

Pedaling Across the Chubu Region

NAGANO ISHIKAWA GIFU

From Toyoma Bay to Ise Bay 中部縦断富山湾から伊勢湾へ

SHIGA

GOAL!

AICHI

SHIZUOKA

Back in the saddle after a night at a minshuku in Shirakawa-go.

白川郷の合掌造りの民宿に泊まって、走り出す。

his cycling route is quite easy to follow as it basically connects two rivers – the Sho -gawa in Toyama Prefecture and Gifu’s Nagara-gawa. Despite such simplicity, the scenery along the 280-kilometer route changes dramatically as you depart the Japan Sea side of Japan and head toward the Pacific Ocean. Enjoy peda ling pa st ma ny attractive histor ic tow ns a nd v illa ge s, including Shirakawa-go and Gokayama, an area that is one of Japan’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, as well as the nicely preserved cities of Gujo Hachiman and Mino. Take your time ; spend a night or two while you discover each of their charms

for yourself. Then, once you cross over the ridge that divides the two sides of Honshu, simply descend into the Nobi Heiya, a vast plain that stretches from southwest Gifu all the way to northwest Aichi Prefecture, as you arrive at Ise Bay.

こ

のルートは庄川と長良川という二本の川を結ぶと

いうシンプルなもの。しかしその単純な道をたどっ

て日本海側から太平洋側へ抜けると、風景は大きく変化する。総距離は約280㎞。途中には、合掌造りで知られ、世界遺産にもなっている白川郷や五箇山村、そして郡上八幡や美濃など、魅力的な町も数多い。そんな町で泊まりながら、本州の分水嶺を越え、開けた濃尾平野を目指そう。

Takashi Niwa’s Yamamichi Adventure company has been renamed Niwa Cycling Tours (www.ncycling.com). He offers many bike tours, both domestic and overseas. For other routes in Japan, please pick up a copy of “CYCLING JAPAN: 10 of the Best Rides, Vol. 1 by Takashi Niwa,” at bookshops around Japan and various online stores.

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丹羽隆志（にわたかし） 2011年1月より “やまみちアドベンチャー”改め “にわサイクリングツアー” （www.ncycling.com）として国内外の各地をガイドする。国内のコースについては『丹羽隆志の日本ベストサイクリングコース10 vol.1 』を参照してほしい。

By Bryan Harrell

Brimmer Brewing ブリマー・ブルーイング Kawasaki, Kanagawa 神奈川県川崎市

As I write this, Scott Brimmer is finishing up his first batch of beer in his new brewery, located in suburban Kawasaki City, wedged in between Tokyo and Yokohama in Kanagawa Prefecture. The location is ideal, allowing Scott to supply his hand-crafted ales to the massive markets of both cities. For me, the development is exciting, as the presence of a seasoned brew ing pro such as Scott is certain to further raise t he b a r o n qu a l it y craft beer in Japan. Scott got his start as a professional brewer at Sierra Nevada Brew ing in northern California where he worked for n i ne ye a rs, a nd a s a brewer during his last four and a half years there. He then moved to Japan, where his wife is from, and worked as a brewer for five years at Gotemba Kogen Beer. While he was there, he brewed a number of special ales that were quite different from the brewery’s main commercial products, and I recall all of them to have been very clean, well-balanced and highly flavorful. In the spring of 2011, Scott began

work on opening this brewery and fortunately has kept everything on a comparatively small scale. There are three main beers – Pale Ale, Golden Ale and Porter – along with a specialty beer that changes throughout the year. All beers are in 330-ml. bottles, and though prices have not been decided yet, all are listed at 5.5% alcohol. A ll beers will also be available in kegs for pubs and other commercial accounts. Scott plans to begin offering brewery tours in April, when people can come and see the brewing equipment and learn how t he b e e r s a re made. The brewery is a short seven-minute walk from Kuji Station on the Nambu Line which runs between Kawasaki and Tachikawa. While there is a small area where beer can be sampled and enjoyed, the facility is without a pub or restaurant. Scott believes craft beer is all about craftsmanship and dedicates his efforts to producing ha ndcra f ted premium beers that can be enjoyed and appreciated by everyone.

今いよいよ出来上がっていることだろう。ビールが造頃、スコット・ブリマーが最初に仕込んだビールが

2011年春、自身の醸造所を開設して以来、幸運にも全てを小規模のまま続けることが出来ている。ペールポーターが主なビール。このられているのは、東京と横浜の間にある神奈川県川崎エール、ゴールデンエール、どれ市。二つの大都市で自分の手作りビールが試されることほか一年を通して様々な限定ビールを作っている。になるのだから、絶好のロケーションだ。スコットのようなも330-mlのボトル入りで価格は未定。アルコール度数パブやその他の店舗では樽で提供する。プロのビール醸造者の存在は、間違いなく日本のビーは5.5%。 4月には醸造所ツアーも予定している。醸造設備をル品質を更に高めてくれるわけでこれからが楽しみだ。ビールがどうやってできるのかを見てもらうのスコットがビール作りを学び始めたのは、カリフォル見学して、ニアの北にあるシエラネヴァダ醸造所。醸造責任者だ。川崎と立川を結ぶ南武線久地駅から徒歩7分。サその後、ンプルを試飲できるコーナーはあるが、パブやレストランを努めた4年半を含めて9年間をここで過ごす。妻の母国日本へ渡り、御殿場高原ビールで醸造に携はない。スコットは、ビール造りを一つの職人技として考えておわった。御殿場高原ビールでは、主要商品とは異なるエールり、誰もが美味しいと思える手作りのプレミアムビールをを特別に作った。それらの全てが、香り高くバランスのよ造ることにすべてをかけている。いビールだったことを私は覚えている。

Brimmer Brewing

ブリマー・ブルーイング（株）

4-27-14 Kuji, Takatsu-ku, Kawasaki City, Kanagawa 213-0032

〒 213 - 0 0 3 2 神奈川県川崎市高津区久地 4 -2 7-14

Phone: (044) 281-0541 Web: www.brimmerbrewing.com SPRING

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Save water, share a bath. 一緒にお風呂で、水を節約

NAKED STRANGER

ハダカの異国人

THE

TA L E S F ROM T H E BAT H

Episode 9: A winter ode to l’eau chaude お湯のウィンターソング

ot water is good. I love it. But not like that comfortable, homey love affair I have with my slippers. And not like that sneaky, guilty love I feel for hot chips with gravy. I’m talking real slappin’-your-pants hot, hot love. Like my love for Natalie Portman and that funny thing she does with her lip when she smiles. Ah, l’eau chaude, it even sounds better in French. Hot water has many practical uses as well. You can use it to clear ice off your windshield on a winter morning or sterilize your surgical instruments. Put it in jelly crystals, and it goes hard. It is efficacious and mysterious and, if you take the bidet option on the Japanese toilet, your world will change forever. Hot water is

what separates us from other hominids. Turn on the tap, and there it is. It is a testament to our ancestors’ struggle against nature, and we reap the rewards. But in winter after a day on the slopes, the majesty of hot water is taken to an even higher plane. Stick a room temperature, warm toe in hot water and it feels pleasant. Stick a foot that has been wedged in a ski boot for six hours in sub-zero temperatures, and joy turns to rapture. It is better than that Natalie Portman smile. It is banging on the table, hooting, tooting ecstasy. So, do yourself a favor this spring and reignite your romance with l’eau chaude.

お

湯は良い。本当に良いものだ。ただ、それは家

しくミステリアスな存在なのだ。お湯こそは猿人と現代

のあのスリッパに感じる心地よさや、好きなの

人を分かつものであり、蛇口をひねれば出てくるお湯の

に罪悪感を感じてしまうグレービーがけのポテトチップ

冬のゲレンデで一日を過ごした後のお湯は、ただ

に見せる独特な唇の動きへの熱い愛のように、情熱

のお湯とはひと味違う。体が温まっている時だって足

的にハートをワシづかみにされているのだ。ああ、愛し

を浸ければ気持ち良い。それを、6時間も氷点下のス

のお湯様。あえてフランス語で呼ばせてほしい。l’ eau

chaude、なんて魅惑的な響きだろう。

流れは、祖先の自然への挑戦とその恩恵の証なのだ。

への感情ともまた違う。ナタリー・ポートマンが笑う時

キーブーツの中で冷え切った足を温泉に浸したりしたら、 “気持ち良い” はもはや狂喜に変わる。さすがのナタ

お湯の用途は実にさまざまだ。冬の朝にフロントガラ

リー・ポートマンの笑顔も敵わない。テーブルに頭を打

スの氷を融かしたり、ゼラチンを固めたり、手術器具の

ち付け、叫び声をあげて、お祭り騒ぎをしたくなる、そん

熱湯消毒にも活躍する。日本のトイレでビデボタンを押

な快感。この冬、あなたも是非l’ eau chaudeとの魅惑

したなら、人生を変える出会いが待っている。実に頼も

のロマンスに溺れてみては。

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Off-the-beaten-track Japan

SEE A DIFFERENT SIDE OF JAPAN SELF-GUIDED WALKING Discover Japan your own way - with a self-guided walking trip along the historic Nakasendo or Kumano Kodo trails!

T HE BA R E E S S E N T I A L S

WALKING TRAILS Evocative village-to-village walking

Yutaki Onsen, Nozawa Onsen, Nagano / 湯滝温泉：長野県野沢温泉 Rating: ♨ ♨ ♨ ♨ ♨ Address（所在地）:

Oaza Ichiyama Aza Kawaoshi 1898 Iiyamashi, Nagano 長野県飯山市大字一山字川押1898

Cost（料金）: ¥400 (adults)

Tel: (0269) 65-3454 Web: www.yutakionsen.net The Upside（長所）:

The rotenburo is beautifully designed. The onsen water cascades four feet down a stone wall to the bath through ornate timber work that would be of interest to anyone with an appreciation of traditional carpentry techniques. Watch the river flow slowly by from the rotenburo.

+ ACCOMMODATION + MAPS & DIRECTIONS Local inns with excellent regional cuisine

Period, but the 1849 earthquake in Nagano caused the water to stop flowing in the area. Luckily, it was re-established in 1987 at the current location.

Detailed route maps and step-by-step directions

• 湯滝温泉は日本最長の川、千曲川のほとりにある。野沢温泉から車で約10分下ったところで、野沢温泉村に点在する無料温泉とはまた違った趣が楽しめる。 • 湯滝は江戸時代から栄える温泉宿場だったが、1849 年の地震で温泉が止まってしまった。その後の1987年に今の場所に再建された。

Food（食事）:

Sasazushi (vegetarian sushi in bamboo leaf) is a specialty of the Iiyama area. 笹寿司（竹の葉を使った寿司）が飯山地方の名物。

Nearby Attractions（観光スポット）:

Nozawa Onsen ski area, Togari Onsen ski area 露天風呂が素晴らしい。温泉が滝となってお風呂 and Oku-shinano or “Little Kyoto.” の岩盤に流れ落ち、周囲には木工の技が施されて野沢温泉スキー場、戸狩温泉スキー場、そして“小いる。日本の伝統的な大工仕事に興味がある人に京都”奥信濃。は面白いだろう。露店風呂からは千曲川のゆった Access（アクセス）: りとした流れが望める。 Take the Joshinetsu Expressway toward The Downside（短所）: Iiyama and then the Toyoda-Iiyama exit, then It is difficult to access without a car. onto Rt. 117 toward Yutaki Onsen. It’s about 車がないとアクセスが難しい。 20 minutes by car from Iiyama Station or 10 minutes from Nozawa Onsen.

The Bare Facts（温泉）:

•• Yutaki Onsen sits beside the Chikuma River, the longest river in Japan. It is a quick 10-minute drive down the hill from Nozawa Onsen and a nice change from the many free onsen in the village. •• Yutaki was a popular place during the Edo

上信越自動車道で豊田・飯山ICを降りてから国道 117号で湯滝温泉へ。車で飯山駅から20分、野沢温泉からは10分。乗り換えて、40分で妙高高原駅。車なら、上信越道で妙高高原I.C.へ。

WIN A TRIP FOR 2 enter here enter here

oxalisholidays.jp

info@oxalisholidays.jp SPRING

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ACTION

A New Zealander takes up the challenge to run 4,100 kilometers (the length of Japan), averaging 50 kilometers a day, to raise donations and awareness for Tohoku and bring smiles to people’s faces along the way.

PROFILE Name: Justyn “Jup” Brown Age: 39 Nationality: New Zealand Blog: http://jupbrown.wordpress.com Web: www.jupbrown.com

Hasse Trike

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n April 2012, Jup Brown embarks on a 4,100-kilometer journey to run the entire lengthy of Japan from Okinawa to Wakkanai in northern Hokkaido to raise money to rebuild schools and the communities in Tohoku affected by the 2011 earthquake and tsunami. It would take a world-class endurance athlete to complete such a challenge, or so you might think. “Actually, I’m just a plumber from Wanaka, an average Kiwi looking to achieve a goal, for a worthy cause, and have some fun along the way,” says the 39-year-old Brown, who moonlights as a Japanese translator and a ski/ snowboard course designer. Although he’s traveled the world over the last two decades, he’s spent a lot of time in Japan and the country is close to is heart. “I love Japan. When I’m asked why, I don’t know, it’s the people, the food and the countryside. I’m always really happy when I’m in Japan. I’m not sure why, but I am.” Jup has lived in Japan on and off for the past 19 years. Other than a year and a half living in Niseko, Hokkaido, most of his time has been spent in Tohoku, particularly Fukushima. He was never big into running. He did it training for sports and staying in shape, but he hadn’t run a full marathon until 2006, “on a flat Gold Coast course in Australia,” he points out. While working at a ski resort in Inawashiro, Fukushima, where he’s spent many winters, he realized a 100K ultra marathon started right outside his door. He joined the race in 2010, finishing in 12 hours and 20 minutes. “It was such an awesome feeling to finish that first ultra marathon. After that I thought, ‘I could run even longer,’ and I loved the ultra running culture, the people were having a lot of fun.” In 2011 Jup met a guy in New Zealand named Nick Chisholm who had suffered a stroke and was confined to a wheel chair. Jup wanted to help him rehab and fulfill his dream of riding a Hase trike (a three-wheeled mountain bike). “Nick showed me a picture of the bike and his eyes just lit up. I knew how happy it would make him, so I created a charity event, telling 1,000 people I’d run 100K on a treadmill at a gym if they would donate to help Nick get his new wheels,” he says. It took Jup one week, 12 hours and 12 minutes of running to complete the 100 kilometers, but he did it and raised AUD $30,000 to get Nick two three-wheeled Hasse trikes and a bit of extra pocket money if he ever needed it. “It was so amazing to watch so many people

who didn’t know me come together and support me, and help a guy in a wheelchair who they also didn't know; I loved every minute of the running and then giving the bikes to Nick,” Jup declares. A week after finishing the run for Nick, Jup headed off to Nepal for his next challenge — the Tenzing Hillary Everest Marathon — a 42-kilometer race starting at 5,335 meters and finishing at 3,400 meters. He then flew back to Japan and ran in the 100K Ginga Ultra in Iwate, a race started to help support the tsunami-affected areas in Japan. He wasn’t done there. Once back in New Zealand he decided to organize a charity run to raise money for the New Zealand Stroke Foundation, which he learned about through Nick. This time he would run the length of New Zealand, from south to north. He averaged 50 kilometers a day for 67 days while taking just seven days off to rest. Nick was able to join him on his bike for a couple of days as well. Jup wasn’t sure he would make it, but with the encouragement of the people who joined him for parts of the run, he did. This is where the idea of running across another island country was born. Jup is calling his challenge “(S)miling 日本, ” the “S” standing for “smile” and the “miling” for running many miles in Japan. He will start far south in Okinawa, then cover 4,100 kilometers over 95 days, reaching northern Hokkaido, before finishing up in Tohoku. He plans again to average 50 kilometers a day, while taking one day off every 10 days to recharge; he also plans to spend 4-5 days volunteering in Tohoku along the way. He will take a detour from his cross-country run to join the Ginga Ultra Marathon once again on June 10 while in Tohoku. There is talk of some special guests joining him at the race and some points along the way, and he encourages anyone to join him for a run, walk or cycle during the run — or just to come out and say, “Gambatte!” He speaks Japanese, so locals needn’t worry about communication. He will stop by schools along the way, spreading encouragement and sharing the message that Japan still needs support. “One thing I like to tell people is that I’m not some professional athlete,” Jup says. “I’m just a normal guy out there running. I’m a traveler looking for an adventure or two and to have as much fun as I can every day — while trying to bring some smiles to people’s faces and help people along the way.”

(S)miling日本 What: Running approximately 4,100 kilometers (the length of Japan) from Okinawa to Hokkaido. When: April to Early July 2012 How can you help? Support Jup by donating on his site and/or getting out there and joining him on the road! A detailed schedule and route map is online at http://jupbrown.wordpress.com/59-2/

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The guys behind the “Diaries Down Under” series, led by presenter Nick Hyne, spent a good part of this epic winter shooting and riding some of Japan’s best mountains for their new project, Japan Journals. Nick took some time to look back on the season that was and, for spring skiers, continues to be.

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Wint

er 20 Lo o 12 kin g B ack

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What was the highlight for

you this winter in Japan?

I am going to go with the obvious

Traveling to these different

snow areas in Japan, what

made each area interesting

How easy it is for snow

lovers to find good snow

conditions when they come

or different?

to Japan?

good winter this year. The snow we

for the bulk of the trip. Niseko is

is to get good snow in Japan. You

got up in Hokkaido was as good as

a really good spot as the snowfall

don't need a snowmobile or any

it gets.

is so consistent. It gets about 14

crazy hiking equipment necessarily,

meters of snow a year. Nearly every

you can get amazing powder right at

day in January and February was a

the resorts.

answer - the powder! Seemed like everywhere in Japan had a really

What were some of the

challenges the crew faced? It was always going to be a

Yeah, we were based in Niseko

powder day. We did a road trip up to Asahidake, which was probably the

It always shocks me how easy it

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the main difference

between southern hemisphere

mission with six people in the crew

highlight of the trip for us. It was

and only one person filming all

pretty much a blizzard every day but

the riders. It was hard at times but

we got into the roadside trees and

we adapted to each situation and it

rode some of the lightest, deepest

ended up being the best trip I have

snow we have ever encountered.

probably the biggest difference.

ever been on.

Check out Episode 3 for the

The climate is a lot milder in New

evidence!

Zealand than Japan. The winters

We are all really close friends so

snow conditions and what

you find in Japan?

The amount of snowfall is

aren't quite as brutal and the

it was never going to be too much

For Episode 4 we mixed things

of a chore hanging out and riding

up a little and focused on traveling

summers aren't so hot. Because of

the world's best snow together.

within the main island of Japan.

this, the only place we have resorts

We got some good conditions in

is up in the alpine regions where

a few challenges as well. We didn't

Hakuba and Niigata and saw the

there aren't any trees. This means

have a car at the start of the trip but

snow monkeys in their hot springs in

the fresh snow we get is a lot more

Rhythm Snowsports in Niseko Hirafu

Jigokudani.

exposed to the elements, not like

Having a small budget made for

sponsored us, providing a van for the rest of the Hokkaido leg. This let us explore a little more and made shopping, pick ups, onsen trips and

Any crazy stories or moments

you can share with us?

Surprisingly, things stayed

every day filming requirement crap

relatively tame this trip. On the road

a lot easier.

trip back from Asahidake to Niseko

How many episodes did you

guys shoot?

We shot four episodes of Japan

the highway was closed so it took

Japan where there are always stashes in the trees and valleys.

Will we see Japan Journals

again next season?

Yep, we will be here hunting the

best snow once again! â&#x153;¤

us about 8 or 9 hours to get back. We found a massive bottle of Sake under the seat and things got a

Journals. The first episode came out

little rowdy. We had a loose night of

near the start of February and the

karaoke in Tokyo too!

4th is due for release at the end of March. Having four episodes was good because it allowed us to travel to different areas and have a theme for each episode that made up the series.

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a y e Se

t x e n

! r e t win

Japan Journals

Vimeo: http://vimeo.com/38305108

Facebook: www.facebook.com/JapanJournals Diaries Down Under

Web: www.diariesdownunder.com 54

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Mammut Monitor & Trial Program There is only one way to go into Japan’s backcountry – safely, and with the right equipment and knowledge. Mammut’s Barryvox Element beacon was created to be easy to use and affordable for new backcountry enthusiasts without sacrificing functionality. Two veteran backcountry guides in Japan share their impressions after using the Barryvox Element beacon with their customers this season.

Bill Ross

Paul Vanderheiden

“I have used Mammut’s Pulse Barryvox for a while now, after using a variety of transceivers from the good old days of analogue devices. It’s just great—I used it during avalanche training, and literally found a target in a great big field in less than 30 seconds. Much easier and intuitive than in the past. The Pulse does take a little study to know all the functions, so I was really pleased to have the chance to try out the Element with our guests. Its simplicity doesn’t mean it is a dumbed-down version. Rather, in quick pre-tour briefings with guests I felt that they understood the idea behind it, how it functions, and what to do if something did happen. Makes me feel safer, because I’m the first one to ski! And the reasonable price is also a real benefit for people who are already investing a lot in backcountry gear.

“The Mammut Element is a three- antenna transceiver, which make it much faster than other beacon searches on the market. I have been using different beacons for years and have tried many companies but Mammut has made great strides in the design and simplicity of their New Mammut Element. As a Guide I feel much safer knowing that the people in my group have a quality product and they are confident in using it even if it's their first time with the Transceiver. Thank you Mammut for making such an amazing life saving device.”

Director & Guide, Dancing Snow (Myoko, Niigata) www.dancingsnow.com

About Myoko

The area around Mt. Myoko has a wide range of backcountry terrain, ideal for everyone from experienced skiers and boarders to those leaving the groomed runs and “sidecountry” for the first time. It’s serious snow country, though, so a transceiver is a requirement.

Dancing Snow Customer Feedback

“The unit is very compact, and the straps keep it close to your body and out of the way. You’re not really aware that you have it on while you’re on the hill.” “It’s really easy to figure out which way to search. All you have to do is follow the arrows and watch the distance figures go down.” “I liked the way the display shows how many beacons are out there when you switch to search, and the way you can mark victims so the transceiver stops receiving from that person, and you can move on to the next.” “It was my first time to use a transceiver, and it was very easy to understand how to use it. The switches and dials are also simple and clearly marked. I liked the fact that it was hard to accidently turn it off!’ Element Barryvox Beacon

Pulse Barryvox Beacon

“I’ve used other transceivers that are not as natural to switch from transmit to receive, or harder to use in an actual search. Very fast and accurate.”

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Owner, Japow Tours (Hakkoda, Aomori) www.japowtours.com

About Hakkoda

Tohoku’s Mt. Hakkoda is a backcountry playground attracting advanced skiers and snowboarders. A beacon is standard equipment for exploring these serious mountains, as is a knowledgeable guide.

Japow Tours Customers Feedback

“The Mammut Element Barryvox transceiver is incredibly intuitive and even tells you to turn around if you are going the wrong direction with a simple U-Turn symbol” “The simple on and off switch locks into place making each function secure and one confidant that he or she is sending or receiving the proper signal.” “The harness and housing of the Mammut Element Barryvox is actually quite comfortable and allows for easy access the to transceiver itself.” “As an avid backcountry snowboarder the “Mutual burials function” is essential when traveling with larger groups.” “When practicing with The Mammut Element Barryvox vs. my friends' BCA Tracker the Element was picking up a signal and tracking at least 10 meters before the BCA Tracker. When doing a speed search in the practice field, the Element Barryvox won every time.” “The Mammut Element Barryvox 3 antenna system works faster and more fluid than other beacons I have had in the past, by far the best and easiest transceiver I have ever used.”

SPRING ACTIVITY GUIDE

Every season a new adv WHITE WATER RAFTING TONE RIVER Gunma

www.canyons.jp

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

The Tone River runs through Minakami, the hot spring town in northwest Gunma that has become Honshu’s adventure Mecca. The imposing Mt. Tanigawa is the backdrop for the white water tours. The river’s three canyons—the Momiji, Minakami and Suwa— feature the most excitement and, when Momiji is at high water, it is truly world-class. In summer, water levels are low and perfect for family outings.

ARAKAWA RIVER Saitama

www.outdoorjapan.com/travel/operator_details/28 www.outdoornagatoro.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

The Village of Nagatoro is halfway up the Arakawa River from Tokyo in northwest Saitama. Here there are some interesting rock formations along five kilometers of the river that have been designated a national natural monument. The deep waters make for a gentle ride with some Grade 2 rapids in this scenic area.

CANYONING SHIKOKU CANYONS Kochi

www.happyraft.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Shikoku, the oft-forgotten island, is home to some of Japan’s best canyoning. The warm climate, steep, rugged mountains and abundance of clear, fresh water make for a great canyoning destination. Here you can get away from the crowds and enjoy some of Japan’s most pristine nature. This is the real deal with 40-meter waterfall descents and big waterslides.

KUSATSU CANYONS Gunma

www.canyons.jp

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Kusatsu is one of the most famous onsen areas in Japan, and the thermal activity that feeds the natural hot springs, as well as the volcanic rock, creates some truly unique canyoning courses. Here you can explore Dear Canyon, one of Japan’s highest vertical courses, as well as the depths of Poison Canyon, one of the only hot spring canyoning courses in the world.

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enture

After an epic winter, spring skiing will be open at many resorts through Golden Week. The big snowmelt feeds lakes and rivers for great paddling, and pleasant temperatures make the season a great time for some outdoor fun. Chase the cherry blossoms north and enjoy spring in Japan!

CYCLING SHIMANAMI KAIDO Hiroshima and Ehime

http://ncycling01.sblo.jp/article/42313367.html www.go-shimanami.jp

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

The Nishi-Seto Expressway, aka Shimanami Kaido, is a motorway linking the islands of Honshu and Shikoku via a number of bridges. Except one, all the bridges have bike lanes, which makes hopping from island to island across the Seto Inland Sea, a breeze. You’ll be awe-struck as you peer down from a soaring bridge to dormant fishing villages below.

TOKYO CITY RIDES Tokyo

www.tokyocycling.jp

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

The megalopolis of Tokyo is an outdoor playground for cyclists. Feel the energy of the city as you cruise spacious urban parks or busy waterfronts, then suddenly turn into a maze of back streets and residential areas. Surprisingly, Tokyo is dotted with pockets of lush greenery, which gives the city a different face each season. You may bump into a sumo wrestler or discover a new favorite café.

TROPICAL CYCLING Okinawa

http://ncycling01.sblo.jp/article/42313367.html

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

When it comes to cycling in Japan, the sparkling blue sea of Okinawa is not to be missed. The road stretches through sugarcane fields into the horizon of endless water where blue sky meets turquoise water. There are no mountains or large forests that hinder your view. Touring Miyakojima and its neighboring islands, you’ll feel truly liberated.

NOTO PENINSULA Ishikawa

http://ncycling01.sblo.jp/article/42313367.html

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Noto is a time capsule taking you back to old Japan. In addition to the well-preserved city of Kanazawa, or Wajima, famous for its urushi lacquer ware and asa-ichi morning market, you’ll find old village houses with black kawara tiles on the top and wood shingles on the side. It will seem as if the clock has turned back a few centuries. With no tourist coaches on its narrow roads, you start to wonder what else will appear around the next corner from years past.

SPRING

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SPRING ACTIVITY GUIDE

Every season a new adventure

CANOEING LAKE NARAMATA Gunma

www.ilovecanoe.jp

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Minakami is best known for white water and hot water (onsen) but still waters also run deep in the Minakami area, and one way to enjoy a relaxing spring afternoon is floating in a canoe or kayak in one of the many lakes in the area. Guests can paddle the crystal clear waters while monkeys and kamoshika (a Japanese serow) walk the shores of the lake.

LAKE AOKI Nagano

www.evergreen-hakuba.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Just a short drive from Hakuba, the clear waters of Lake Aoki are fed by the snowmelt of the surrounding mountains. In spring cherry blossoms are abundant and the area is teeming with wildlife. The best way to explore the lake is a gentle paddle in a Canadian Canoe. Take it slow and enjoy the views.

ADVENTURE FOREST ADVENTURES Hakone and Odawara www.foret-aventure.jp

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Japan’s forests are a great escape from the hectic pace of city life. Forest Adventures runs a number of parks that get you off the ground and into the trees, featuring rope swings, rope bridges, net climbs, tree ladders and zip lines that are challenging but safe for all ages to climb, swing and step across. The Odawara and Hakone parks are great for day trips from Tokyo.

BUNGY JUMPING Gunma

www.bungyjapan.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Adding to Minakami’s reputation for outdoor adventure sports is Japan’s only bridge bungy jump. The 42-meter bridge spans the Tone River and features spectacular views of the Tanigawa range. But if you are brave enough to step out on the platform and take the ultimate leap of faith, you’ll be more focused on what’s below. It’s a personal challenge you’ll enjoy and an experience you’ll never forget. The bridge opens Apr. 20.

SPRING

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SCUBA DIVING OGASAWARA ISLANDS Tokyo

www.ogasawaramura.com/englishpage.htm www.tourism.metro.tokyo.jp

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

The seasonal diving here is rich and varied, offering screaming drift snorkels over fields of table corals, snorkeling excursions with bottlenose dolphins and a chance to see breaching humpback whales. Huge, schooling tuna, solitary ragged tooth sharks and barnacled sea turtles come to the surrounding reefs of Chichijima and Mukojima, making undersea scenery even more exciting for divers.

WRECK OF THE USS EMMONS Okinawa

www.piranha-divers.jp

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

The USS Emmons was a minesweeper in the battle of Okinawa that was sunk from a massive kamikaze attack on April 6, 1945. It’s the only wreck in the area accessible at a depth of 36-45 meters, yet it wasn’t discovered until February of 2001. She is in very good shape, with many details clearly visible, since relatively few divers have yet visited her.

SURFING NIIJIMA ISLAND Tokyo

www.outdoorjapan.com/surf

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Surf in Tokyo? Tokyo’s hidden gem is Niijima Island where there are a variety of good waves with breaks that can handle everything from easterly, northeasterly, southeasterly, westerly and southwesterly swells. The eastern coast is a long white sand beach break that gets some powerful tubes. The west has some popular spots but not as much swell. And don’t miss the island’s natural outdoor hot spring.

ONJUKU BEACH Chiba

www.kanaloa7.tv/teal/

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Escape from Tokyo and learn to surf from a two-time Japan champion. When not competing on tour, or paddleboard fishing, reigning Longboard Surfing champion Eugene Teal runs a surf school and clubhouse on Onjuku Beach in Chiba. The huge beach gets good waves and is a great place for beginners to learn. Come for the day or stay at the clubhouse, just a short walk to the beach.

SPRING

2 0 1 2

OJ CLASSIFIEDS

■ HOKKAIDO ■ TOHOKU ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAI

■ HOKKAIDO

www.htholidays.com

Niseko’s Finest

Japow Tours is a rider driven guide company with a unique approach to oﬀ trail & backcountry snowboarding in the Hakkoda Mountains.

八甲田山

■ AOMORI

■ HOKKAIDO

Japan Adventures

Your Japan Hiking Specialists

www.japan-adventures.com

SPRING

2 0 1 2

Lifestyle Directory

■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OUTSIDE JAPAN ■ GEAR & SERVICES

■ IWATE

■ NAGANO

A space to relax and be at one with nature!

Summer HAKUBA IN

“Naka no makiba” rated 5th the most beautiful night sky in Japan. 5 min from Hotel APPI Grand

- Exclusive range of luxury cabins, chalets and apartments - Great range of summer activitives - Car and bike rentals arranged

y Heat Escape the Cit www.hakubaresort.com Website : http://www.appi.co.jp Contact : appi_english@ihr.co.jp ■ NAGANO

TEL (81) 0261 72 6663 info@hakubaresort.com

Hakuba Office :

■ NAGANO

inaka home

[DOT] W I Nof N E R

GREEN AWARDS www.GreenDotAwards.com

■ NAGANO

GIN DE W O ing from ¥2,

9 07

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■ NAGANO

0-1

:09 C ell Web: www.hakubapowderlodging.com

SPRING

2 0 1 2

-8 1

OJ CLASSIFIEDS ■ NAGANO

■ HOKKAIDO ■ TOHOKU ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAI

■ NAGANO

Summer ¥8,500 Winter ¥9,500 (per person with meals)

Long stay packages also available

Stay and Play in beautiful Norikura Kogen with an adventure package at NORTHSTAR and the Halenoa Lodge. We offer a full lineup of Green Season Outdoor Fun and if your not so adventurous then you can still enjoy beautiful Norikura Kogen with a dip in one of the Onsens and some local Soba. GUIDED FUN • Beginner MTB Lessons with rentals • Guided MTB Tours • River Hiking UNGUIDED FUN • Road Biking to the top of Mt. Norikura • Trail Running / Hiking • Local Onsen (Hotsping) • Day trips to Mt. Norikura, Kamikochi, Matsumoto City & Takayama City

www.ridenorthstar.com

■ NAGANO

GREEN SEASON

NORTHSTAR outdoor adventures 4306 Azumi, Matsumoto-shi Nagano-ken Ph: 0263.93.1688

■ NAGANO

SKI JAPAN

Season runs from December 3rd to May 6th (With Mother Natures Blessing)

Come in December, March or April and beat the crowds and save some money!

tel. 050 5532 6026 www.nozawaholidays.com

SPRING

2 0 1 2

■ NIIGATA

■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OUTSIDE JAPAN ■ GEAR & SERVICES

■ NAGANO

Lifestyle Directory ■ GUNMA

■ GUNMA

Refresh your Mind, Body & Soul

■ IBARAKI

Refreshing outdoor adventure experiences under 2 hours from Tokyo!

Whitewater rafting, canyoning, adventure combos..... 0278-72-2811 www.canyons.jp ■ GUNMA

■ TOKYO

SPRING

2 0 1 2

OJ CLASSIFIEDS ■ TOKYO

■ HOKKAIDO ■ TOHOKU ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAI

■ SHIZUOKA

■ KANAGAWA

IZU SHIMODA

International License for SURF LESSON

www.real-surf.com

■ SHIZUOKA

■ KANAGAWA

■ YAMANASHI

自然の中で遊ぼう！

GE T WET, GET HAPPY! 関東から一番近いラフティングスポット富士川 Fuji River, The closest rafting spot to Tokyo

Surf Shop, Lessons and Rentals Okuda Style Surfing • Located in Kamakura 0467-23-8284 • www.padobo.com

■ TOKYO

NATURAL ACTION ★ TEL: 0544-65-1123 ¦ info@naturalaction.co.jp http://www.naturalaction.co.jp

■ TOKYO

■ YAMANASHI

■ KANTO

■ KANAGAWA

r e You W h e Fr r a n c e t o

■ KANAGAWA

Trip Reala r t s S t

h o n a ne u e in S FrancP e t a n q n r e h , ut i s i n e ce So u n e C i r , Expe g u a g e Lan

Shichirigahama, Kamakura

www.easysurf.jp Phone: 0467-55-5702

Tel/Fax: 0466-24-5381 www.soleilprovence.com 64

SPRING

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■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OUTSIDE JAPAN ■ GEAR & SERVICES

■ KANSAI

■ KOCHI

PPYRA A H

Lifestyle Directory ■ OKINAWA

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■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU

■ MICRONESIA

.com ppyraft info@ha 500 0 5 7 ho 0887 toyo-c ahara O n 789-0158 10-4 Iw e k ih oc com ft..c raft a-gun K app yra Nagaok ://www.h

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■ MICRONESIA

■ THAILAND

■ TAIWAN

KOH LANTA KRABI THAILAND

email: reservation@pimalai.com

www.pimalai.com

Discover Nature, Discover Yourself. ■ BALI 癒しの空間で... 波を心いくまで満喫...

Feel at home... Enjoy the ride...

サーフィンガイドサーフィンコーチラグジャリーな宿泊施設

Surf Guiding Surf Coaching Luxury Accommodation

www.thechillhouse.com SPRING

2 0 1 2

OJ CLASSIFIEDS

■ HOKKAIDO ■ TOHOKU ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAI ■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OUTSIDE JAPAN ■ GEAR & SERVICES

■ INDIA

■ GEAR & SERVICES

Food & fun from home!

FBC is the easiest way to get food and fun from home, direct to your door – anything from cereals, cheeses, health foods, kid’s books & games to seasonal goods!

■ GEAR & SERVICES

Air-golf.com Golf this summer on two of Tochigi’s top courses! ■ GEAR & SERVICES

■ GEAR & SERVICES

Office Network & Computer Support Database Development Website Development VoIP Telephone Systems Online Marketing www.showcase-central.info www.emissary.co.jp | 03-3365-1978 ■ GEAR & SERVICES

■ GEAR & SERVICES

Japan Resort Properties Live your lifestyle.

Find your perfect getaway in japan at

www.JapanPropertyListings.com 66

SPRING

2 0 1 2