Outdoor Japan Traveler - Issue 59 - Spring 2016 by Outdoor Japan

ISSUE 59 | SPRING 2016 | FREE

A S O M R FO ST FIR S T N E C S E D Untouched Yanbaru

“やんばる”の無垢の自然

Chasing Glaciers in Patagonia パタゴニアの氷河を求めて

Get Your Jig on in Terengganu

トレンガヌでジグ釣りを楽しむ

SPRING GUIDE & EVENTS

Reefs, Walls and Critters in The Visayas

ヴィサヤのリーフとウォールと生きものたち

ADVENTURE

■

PEOPLE

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C U LT U R E

■

TRAVEL

NANCY GONZ ALEZ Photo by : Nancy Gonzalez

SPRING 2016

I N S I D E I S S U E 5 9 ■ S P R I N G 2 016

18 F E AT U R E :

CHASING GLACIERS I N P ATA G O N I A パタゴニアの氷河を求めて

F E AT U R E S

Against the Current with Lisa Miyasugi

INSIDE

Getting Your Jig on in Terengganu トレンガヌでジグ釣りを楽しむ

Chasing Glaciers in Patagonia パタゴニアの氷河を求めて

Reefs, Walls and Critters in the Visayas ヴィサヤのリーフとウォールと生きものたち

T R AV E L E R

Untouched Nature in Yanbaru “やんばる” の無垢の自然

Formosa First Descents

From the Editor

Spring Events

Market Watch

The Local Brew

Japan Angler

Spring Guide

Travel & Adventure Directory

SPRING 2016

■ FROM THE EDITOR Gardner Robinson, Editor-in-Chief gardner@outdoorjapan.com

pring is the season of possibilities. After a cold winter, albeit one cut relatively short this year by El Niño, spring is for thawing out, stretching out and getting refreshed. It may be slightly more difficult to witness the seasonal changes while living in an urban landscape, but rest assured not far from you the hills are alive with colorful flowers, greening fauna and swelling rivers. Spring is the season for action. It is time to put those fitness plans into motion, get away with the family and explore Japan or finally take that exciting trip you’ve been looking forward to. There’s no shortage of action, adventure and travel in our spring issue. If you have been chomping at the bit for the weather to warm up so you can enjoy biking and running outdoors, you’ve probably entertained the thought of doing a triathlon. Yet swimming is the one discipline that scares most of us away from actually entering a race or even training.

The pool can be daunting if you haven’t learned the proper techniques, but with a little help from an experienced swim and triathlon coach such as Lisa Miyasugi, you’ll be reaching your goals in no time. Check out her journey from world-class open-water swimmer to coach for aspiring triathletes and then check out some great races in Japan. Two Japan-based adventures follow their passions to two different corners of the world. OJ contributor Aaron Jamieson heads down to South America in his unquenchable thirst for fresh lines. His travels take him to Argentina and then into the beautiful, yet harsh, terrain of Patagonia. Several years ago, I traveled to Patagonia from the Chilean side, reaching the spires of Torres Del Paine and hiking in this beautiful natural park. After living in Asia for two decades, I found it was a rejuvenating trip, rekindling the wanderlust to explore new places near or far.

Mike Harris has been pioneering the canyoning scene here in Japan from his base in Minakami for decades. Inspired by images brought back by Japanese sawanobori climbers in Taiwan, he plotted an exploratory mission to the mountainous island. Several trips later, with a hand-picked group of canyon-addicts, he brings back an amazing story and some first descents. Our globetrotting girl, Rie Miyoshi, has roots in both Malaysia and Japan, and she’s covered both sides of her family tree during her latest junket. She first heads to Terengganu to do a little (squid) jig, then takes a spin around Okinawa with our friends from Montbell. Plus, Tim Rock once again goes deep, this time to The Philippines, uncovering some amazing macrolife in The Visayas. And there’s more fun stuff in our spring guide to get you excited about the possibilities this season.

春

は可能性の季節。エルニーニョのおかとくに水泳に二の足を踏む人は多い。正しい泳法をかろうが、新しい場所を旅することのすばらしさを改めげで今年の冬は比較的短かったが、知らなければプールにはくじけそうになるかもしれないて感じることができた。寒い冬の後、春は融け、伸び、蘇るが、宮杉理紗のような経験豊かなコーチがいれば目マイク・ハリスは水上ベースに何十年も活動する、ための季節である。都会に住んでいる標達成も簡単だ。世界レベルのオープンウォータース日本におけるキャニオニングの草分け的存在だ。日と、彩り豊かな季節の移ろいに気づくのはむずかしいイマーから、トライアスリートのコーチになるまでの彼本人が撮影してきた台湾の沢登りの写真を見て、豊かもしれないが、ご心配なく。すぐそこの丘にはカラフ女の道のりと、日本でのレースのスケジュールをぜひかな山を擁するこの国への冒険を計画。キャニオニンルな花が咲き乱れ、動物たちは目を覚まし、川は豊かチェックしてみてほしい。グ中毒の仲間との2 回の旅を終えた彼が持ち帰たすに流れだしている。日本からはふたりの冒険家がまったくちがった世界ばらしい旅のストーリーを堪能していただきたい。そして春は活動の季節。フィットネス計画を実行すの端へと出かけた。OJに寄稿してくれているアーロン・世界を駆けめぐる三好理恵はマレーシアと日本にるのもいいし、家族で国内旅行や、ずっと行きたかっジェミーソンはずっと行きたかった南米へ出発。旅はルーツを持ち、最近の視察旅行ではその両方のルーツたところへ行くのもお薦めだ。旅と冒険にはこと欠か彼をアルゼンチンから、美しくも過酷なパタゴニアへとを訪ねることができた。まず、イカのジグ釣りの取材ではないのが春である。誘った。数年前、私もチリ側からパタゴニアを旅したトレンガヌへ、モンベルの友人とは沖縄を訪れた。そし早く暖かくなってバイクやランニングがしたい人は、ことがある。トーレス・デル・パイネの先端からこの美てティム・ロックが今回潜ったのはヴィサヤ諸島。今回トライアスロンをやってみようと思ったことがあるかもししい国立公園のハイキングを楽しんだ。アジアに20 も美しい海のマクロライフを紹介してくれる。ほかにもこれないが、レースはもちろん、トレーニングのなかでも、年住んでいる私にとっては新鮮な旅で、近かろうが遠の春を楽しむための情報満載でお届けいたします。

OUTDOOR JAPAN TRAVELER Published Seasonally Publisher Outdoor Japan Media

Media Coordinator Rie Miyoshi

Editor-in-Chief Gardner Robinson

Contributing Editors Wayne Graczyk, Shigeo Morishita

Editor Bill Ross

Translators Kumiko Kurosaki, Yoshine Lee, Eri Nishikami, Kazusa Murai, Lana Sofer

Art Director Yuki Masuko

Contributors Joan Bailey, Lee Dobson, Eddie Gianelloni, Bryan Harrell, Neil Hartmann, Abdel Ibrahim, Pauline Kitamura, Takashi Niwa, Tim Rock, Robert Self, Justin Stein, Bonnie Waycott, Craig Yamashita Sales & Marketing media@outdoorjapan.com

©2015 OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED. VIEWS EXPRESSED HEREIN ARE NOT NECESSARILY THOSE OF OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. PRINTED IN JAPAN.

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T R AV E L E R

Outdoor Japan Media

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Cover Photo: Gus Schiavon Mike Harris first up on the 12-meter jump into Marishan Canyon.

SPRING 2016

GUIDE LINES EVENTS CALENDAR

uests can also enjoy live paint artists and massage therapists and staying in local hotels and inns with rel

Spring came a bit early this year, so if you are one of those outdoor lovers who prefers to get your groove on in the green season, you’re in luck There are festivals and races galore. From mountain music festivals to ocean activities, we’ve got you covered.

group tours including the festival’s first “Mountain Girls Summit in Hadano,” outdoor retail booths and a talk show with mountaineer Youki Tanaka. The Hadano Stamp Rally continues throughout the climbing season. When: Apr. 16-17 Where: Hadano Togawa Prefectural Park and Hadano Tatsunishi Middle School Web: www.kankou-hadano.org

Go Out Jamboree Japan’s favorite “glamping” music festival meets again in Shizuoka for a weekend of soul, indie and reggae music, bouldering, outdoor yoga, hot air balloon rides and much more. When: Apr. 15-17 Where: Fumotoppara Camp Site, Shizuoka Web: www.gooutcamp.jp/goj2016

include the Earth Day Concert at the main stage and workshops for kids and families. When: Apr. 23-24 Where: Yoyogi Park, Tokyo Web: www.earthday-tokyo.org

2016 SUP Festival in Odaiba As warmer weather hits Japan, head to Odaiba, Tokyo’s water city, for standup paddling. The festival will hold SUP sessions, SUP and beach yoga and a race. Open 10 a.m.-4 p.m. When: Apr. 23-24 Where: Odaiba, Tokyo Web: www.supa-japan.org

Earth Day Fujisawa Beach Clean Project

60th Hadano Tanzawa Festival

Earth Day Tokyo 2016

This annual festival officially kicks off mountain climbing season in Hadano with a ceremony to bless the season and pray for safety. There are mountain climbing

Yoyogi Park’s annual Earth Day celebration returns with musical performances and healthy food booths in the name of a cleaner and greener world. Highlights

T R AV E L E R

Keep the planet cleaner this Earth Day at the Fujisawa Beach Clean Project, part of the Ocean Conservancy’s International Coastal Clean-up Initiative. Started in 2009 by long-term foreign residents Alana and Michel Bonzi, this project is a fun way to help the land and ocean while meeting new friends. Many companies sponsor teams, but self-sponsored groups are welcome. When: Apr. 24 Where: Fujisawa Beach Web: www.fbcp.soleilprovence.com

Belgian Beer Weekend To celebrate the friendship between Belgium and Japan, the Belgian Beer Weekend will make its way through Japan starting in Nagoya at the end of April to Tokyo in September. When: Apr. 27-Sept. 25 Where: Nagoya, Fukuoka, Yokohama, Kanazawa, Osaka, Sapporo, Sendai and Tokyo Web: www.belgianbeerweekend.jp

When: Apr. 30 Where: Sarugakyo, Gunma Web: www.bungyjapan.com

Mammoth Pow-Wow Get your young ones outside. Held right after Golden Week, this music festival and summer camp experience rolled into one is designed just for kids. From lake canoeing to disc golf, this weekend camp is guaranteed fun for your children. When: May 14-15 Where: PICA Fuji Saiko, Yamanashi Web: www.mammothschool.com/ mammoth-pow-wow

Sanja Matsuri One of the Three Great Festivals of Edo (old Tokyo), the Sanja Matsuri is a massive festival highlighted by impressive portable shrines being paraded through Asakusa. A cultural experience not to be missed, this festival is held every third weekend of May. When: May 21-22 Where: Asakusa, Tokyo Web: www.asakusajinja.jp

Zushi Beach Film Festival For a truly golden evening, head to Zushi Beach to catch the sunset and watch some inspiring films. The Zushi Beach Film Festival is an outdoor cinema held on the beach complete with a restaurant and bar. Pets are welcome. When: Apr. 28-May 8 Where: Zushi Beach, Kanagawa Web: www.zushifilm.com

Greenroom Festival ‘16 Surf into summer at this annual beach lifestyle festival. The Greenroom Festival features live performances by international stars such as Chaka Khan, surf artwork and film screenings and tons of booths by top surf brands over two days. When: May 21-22 Where: Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse, Kanagawa Web: www.greenroom.jp

Sarugakyo Bungy and BBQ Spring into the season with Bungy Japan, Japan’s premier bungy jump operator. Started in 2007 by Charles Odlin who helped bring bungy jumping to Japan in 1995, Bungy Japan has five locations around the nation including Gunma, Ibaraki and Kumamoto. With early summer weather heading our way, enjoy Gunma’s outdoors with Sarugakyo’s 62-meter bungy. There will be handcrafted burgers from Big Dog Catering, live music and cosplay bungy!

Sea to Summit 2016 Montbell’s annual outdoor adventure events kick off in May. Each race begins in the water in kayaks followed by biking and hiking to the summit of one of Japan’s great mountains. In 2016 there will be 11 events in beautiful areas from May to November. If you’re thinking of signing up, don’t be intimidated. Although challenging, this event welcomes any level, especially beginners. When: May 21-Nov. 13 Where: All Japan Web: www.montbell.jp

Taico Club ’16 DJs, musicians and dance music lovers convene in Nagano’s mountains for one of Japan’s best outdoor dance parties. When: June 4-5 Where: Kodama no Mori Campsite, Nagano Web: http://taicoclub.com/16

Natural High! Earth Day Camp For a laid-back weekend, head up to the mountains for this folksy music and outdoor festival. The entire event runs off clean energy and provides healthy and delicious meals. When: May 21-22 Where: Doshi no Mori Campsite, Yamanashi Web: www.naturalhigh.jp

Red Bull Air Race 2016 Red Bull’s aerial daredevils will be returning to Chiba for the second time as part of this globally renowned air race championship. More than 20 pilots, including Yoshihide “Yoshi” Muroya, will be competing from Japan. When: June 4-5 Where: Makuhari Seaside Park, Chiba Web: www.redbullairrace.com

SPRING 2016

GUIDE LINES

Montbell at Yokohama Shin Yamashita Ocean Station The charming port town of Yokohama welcomes a new Montbell store this spring that will hold the biggest selection of Montbell’s canoes and kayaks in Japan. Boat demonstrations and events will be held in the sea right in front of the store. When: Spring 2016 Where: Yokohama Shin Yamashita Ocean Station Web: www.montbell.jp Check out the Events Calendar at www.outdoorjapan.com or follow us on Facebook at FB/ japantraveler for more great festivals and events.

By Joan Bailey

MARKET WATCH Kitanaka Marche

ne of Tokyo’s loveliest little markets is Ebisu Marche. Part of the Marche Japon movement that started in 2009, Ebisu Marche first came on the scene as a bi-monthly market with roughly 20 vendors under half as many tents. There is a new emphasis on organic products and foods, along with regular themed markets such as French and Italian market months. The usual selection of breads, cheeses and heirloom varieties of vegetables from the region, plus special items, have helped the Ebisu Marche double in size and become one of the city’s few weekly markets. Snuggled under the atrium of Ebisu Garden Place, the market’s signature red tents and overflowing tables are a cheery sight signaling that foody adventures await. Growers and producers come from near and far but always with the best their fields and furrows have to offer. Early summer visitors will find Yamaguchi Farm from Kagoshima with amanatsu, a bittersweet citrus perfect for making marmalade, as well as maitake mushrooms still attached to the growing medium. Indeed, they are some of the freshest fungi around. Growers from closer in include Insect Farm from Chiba more than ready to describe in detail recipes for their careful displays of zucchini and tomatoes along with the merits of other veggies. Regular visitors will almost always be able to find farmers from the Okutama region bringing their wares year round. Their winter greens and jewel-toned daikon in all shapes and sizes are a feast for the eyes as well as the nabe pot, and in summer their tomatoes

T R AV E L E R

and eggplant are some of the best around. Jam, honey and pickles are, of course, nearly always to be found, although early-tomid-summer is a perfect time to find garlic, potatoes, sprigs of fresh basil and pretty little mountains of summer squash and zucchini. It is also worth perusing the various tables not just for mini-tomatoes fresh from the vine, but also for their dried counterparts (sampling is highly recommended). Candy never tasted so good. A very nice array of bakers provide a wonderful assortment of savory as well as sweet items for toting home or enjoying while seated on one of the many benches scattered about the market. Those wanting something hot on the spot need not look further than the food carts before settling in at the ample seating provided nearby. Only steps away from the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography, it seems natural the Ebisu Marche also added artisans to the weekly mix. While food remains the centerpiece of the market, approximately 15 tents ring the edges, featuring craftsmen and women showcasing their creations and talking with potential buyers. Photographers, illustrators, weavers and carvers join other artisans to discuss their work and share stories. Without a doubt there is something for everyone. Ebisu Marche Nearest Station: JR Ebisu Directions: Take the moving walkway and head for Ebisu Garden Place. Open: Every Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

By Bryan Harrell

Meguro Tavern Brewing Meguro, Tokyo 目黒タバーン東京都目黒区

have known about the Meguro Tavern for years, considering it one of Tokyo’s better and more authentic English pubs, particularly for its periodic “carvery” offerings designed to k e ep m e at ent hu s i a s t s happy. W hat I didn’t k now is that the genial owner, Garth Roberts, began brew ing his ow n beer in a sm a l l of f- site brewer y i n a n out ly i ng neighborhood after receiving a license some three years ago. Meg uro Tavern reg ulars can enjoy four types of beer brewed especially for them by Roberts himself. These are easy-going beers in the true British style, without the huge levels of bittering hops and alcohol common to their U.S. microbrewery counterparts. From your first sip to the last, it is smooth drinking with your choice of a light Golden Pale Ale, a heartier Cascade Pale Ale, a darker and spicier Exmoor Red Ale or the strongest

of the bunch, the Columbus IPA. Note that all of the brews t hey ma ke r u n bet ween 5 and 6% alcohol, which will assure an evening of smooth enjoyment. Apparently, these are the beers British drinkers crave, but generally they are too young or “fresh” to survive the trip to Japan. For this reason, the stronger, hoppier India Pale Ale style was originally created to travel well. No newcomer to brewing, Roberts spent a lot of his youth cleaning hoses, barrels and other brewing gear at his cousin’s brewery wh ic h h a s long gone out of bu s i nes s . I suppose picking up some brewing gear later in life didn’t prove to be difficult, as all four of his current offerings are smooth, low-key and satisfying. Visit the Tavern website for a more detailed story of how Roberts started his brewery. Of course, a full range of other beers is available from the menu, as are all manner of drinks. What’s more, food at the Meguro Tavern is best described as “a cut above” your average pub grub with steak offerings particularly noteworthy. The Meguro Tavern website offers more t han just a descr ipt ion of t he menu and premises, w ith sections available for customers to place ads. Overall, it has a strong community feel, much like the tavern itself.

東

るには新鮮さを保つのがむずかしいのだ。

京の本格的なイングリッシュパブとして目黒タバーンのことは何年も前から知っていて、とくにときどき

というわけで、空輸にも耐えられるよりホップ感の強い

出てくるカーベリー（客の好みに応じて肉を切って出して

インディアペールエールが作られた。ロバートの醸造の旅

くれること）は肉好きにはたまらない。

路については、目黒タバーンのウェブサイトで見てほしい。

知らなかったのは、陽気なオーナー、ガース・ロバーツが、

ロバートは醸造にかんしては経験があり、若いころは従

3年ほど前にライセンスを取得して以来、近所のブリュワ

兄弟の醸造所で樽や器材などを洗う仕事をしていた。そ

リーでビールの醸造をはじめたことだった。

の醸造所はだいぶ前になくなってしまったが、彼が造った

目黒タバーンではロバートが醸造した4種類のビール

4種類のスムースで控えめ、かつ満足度の高いビールを

を楽しむことができる。アメリカの醸造に見られるように、飲めば、ロバートにとって醸造をはじめるのがさほど難しいホップやアルコールに苦みを与えない、ブリティッシュスタイルが本来持つ気軽なビールだ。軽めのゴールデンペールエール、豊かな味わいのカ

ことではなかったことがわかる。メニューにはほかにも数多くのビールのほか、さまざまな酒も提供されている。そしてなにより目黒タバーンの食事

スケードペールエール、ダークでスパイスの効いたエクス

は、平均的なパブで提供されるもののワンランク上をいく。

ムーアレッドエール、もっとも強いコロンバスIPAなど、最初

とくにステーキはお薦めだ。

の一口から最後までスムースな口当たりを楽しめる。

目黒タバーンのウェブサイトはメニューや所在地の説

アルコール度数はすべて5∼6%あるので、楽しい一夜

明にとどまらず、顧客が広告できるスペースもあって、タ

が送れることもまちがいない。これがまさにイギリス人が求

バーンがそうであるように、密着型のコミュニティのような

めるビールで、とても若いビールなので、通常は日本へ送

雰囲気だ。

The Meguro Tavern

目黒タバーン

2F, Sunwood Meguro, 1-3-28 Shimo Meguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo

東京都目黒区下目黒1-3-28 サンウッド2F

Phone: (03) 3779-0280 Web: www.themegurotavern.com SPRING 2016

AGAINST THE CURRENT

with Open-Water Swim Champion Lisa Miyasugi By Rie Miyoshi

T R AV E L E R

t’s barely 5 a.m. on a crisp Wednesday morning in Tokyo, but Lisa Miyasugi is already preparing for her morning swim classes. The former Japan openwater swim champion has parlayed her training and experience from 20 years of professional swimming into a career as a triathlon coach. Miyasugi’s open water-centric program is helping aspiring athletes reach their goals. At the Tokyo American Club, she teaches a mixed class of amateurs and experienced triathletes. While the drills are intense, the air is positive as she instructs her students through 15 minutes of dry-land exercises (push-ups, pull-ups and other upper-body training) followed by 75 minutes of training in the pool. Student Mark Miller, active in the triathlon scene in the mid-’90s, is rediscovering his passion again. “I did triathlons all the time back in the day, but I’ve never done structured programming. Most of my training was self-taught. I would just head to the pool and dive in. During triathlon races, my plan was to just ‘Get over the swim part, just survive,’” Miller recalls. “But taking Lisa’s class has been eye-opening because her drills focus on getting the fundamentals right. I had never done the butterfly or backstroke, but Lisa teaches you all four strokes, which have helped me learn more about streamlining and body positioning.” Outdoor Japan sat down with Lisa Miyasugi to find out what keeps her afloat. RM: How did you enter the world of swimming and work your way up to open water swimming championships? LM: My parents put me in swim school when I was a kid – swimming is good for kids – so I’ve been in the water since then. I started competing at 7. When I was 18, my coach recommended that I try open-water swimming. RM: Why open water swimming? LM: I was in a slump at that time. Even though I trained in the pool, I wasn’t getting any better. My coach, Minatosan, suggested that I try open water to “refresh.” I loved it right away and went on to compete in the All-Japan Championships which I won. RM: Sounds like it was meant to be. Do you still compete? LM: I competed for a few years. In 2008, the Olympics added open water swimming, and I was selected to represent Japan in Beijing. Unfortunately Japan pulled out that year, so I couldn’t go. Nowadays I don’t compete professionally, but I still swim open-water races for fun.

RM: What kept you going as you competed? Any particular inspirations? LM: In Japanese, there’s a saying: “Renshuu shinai to iuu koto wa, shippai wo junbi wo suru to iuu koto.” This means, if you don’t practice, you’re preparing yourself for failure. Coach Minato said that. He coached me for nearly 15 years, and I was always with him. Unfortunately he passed away a few years ago due to cancer…but his words always motivate me. RM: Has swimming always been your passion? LM: Yes, but of course there have been times I wanted to give up. One of the most difficult moments was this one time I swam a 10K open-water race in Shonan. I was 22. It was extremely difficult – I didn’t want to keep swimming. I stopped at the lifesavers and just cried. I finished eventually but had to stop many times.

RM: Because it was tiring? LM: Mentally tiring. Open water swimmers need to have passion and an akarui seikaku – a positive, happy attitude – because when people are in the ocean, they get scared, especially if no one’s around you. When I swim open water, no one’s around me. I need to decide which way I’m going and have to think a lot. RM: So when did triathlon coaching enter the scene? LM: I started triathlon training two years ago. After quitting my job at a travel agency, I began working for a triathlon magazine called LUMINA, and decided to train for triathlons so I could coach others. I launched my company E3Fit in December 2014. RM: What is E3Fit? LM: It stands for effective, easy and efficient. I train people of all ages and levels – from babies to college students to seniors, from intermediate to triathlete swimmers. Sometimes one-to-one but mostly group classes at Tokyo American Club, Tri-FAQ, LUMINA Club Triathlon Swimming Squad, Spa Shirokane and the U.S. Navy. I also hold classes for physically challenged students. RM: Your programs start off with dry land exercises before moving on to the pool. Can you talk about your classes? LM: Correct body position is absolutely essential for a good swimmer. In the nearly weightless environment of water, correct body position can’t be achieved if the body core is weak. That’s why my training includes dry-land workouts which focus on strengthening the core. I also teach all four stroke types (butterfly, back, breast and freestyle). My students are monitored with video to capture their progress. Seeing yourself swim is a powerful tool to become an effective, easy and efficient swimmer. RM: What’s the hardest part of triathlon training? LM: For me? Running. Swimmers don’t have a lot of muscles; we’re too flexible in the joints and muscles, so it’s hard to run for a long time. I can swim, run and bike – but to become a coach, I’ve had to learn what muscles work for each specific action or sport. It’s difficult, but I’m learning every day. RM: What about for other people? LM: Swimming is the hardest part. Most people are OK with running. But, when they get nervous in the water, their heart rate goes up, and it gets harder to breathe. The first part of triathlons is dangerous when everyone’s in the water. That’s why we practice in the pool during the winter, but from April, I take my students to Zushi, Enoshima and Oiso for open water swimming. Zushi and Enoshima are pretty flat, but the currents at Oiso are strong. RM: What would you say to someone training for his or her first triathlon? LM: Train with a coach instead of tackling it on your own; it’s faster that way. Also when you train with a group, it’s fun and community building. RM: What would you like to see in Japan’s future in triathlons? LM: More triathlons. Most of the time you have to win the lottery to enter a triathlon race in Japan – everything’s a lottery. Also, I would like to see different local triathlon communities build better relationships with each other. ✤

SPRING 2016

AGAINST THE CURRENT

WEB CONNECTION To learn more about Miyasugiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s program, visit www.e3-fit.com.

TRIATHLONS IN JAPAN

Ishigaki Triathlon 2016 April 10 ishigaki-triathlon.jp

Strongman Triathlon Miyakojima April 15-18 www.miyako-net.ne.jp/~strong-e

Aquathlon Nago April 24 www.openwater.jp

2016 ITU World Triathlon Yokohama May 14-15 www.yokohama.triathlon.org

25th Yusuichi Fureai Triathlon May 14-15 www.gunma-triathlon.com

Aquathlon Fukuoka May 15 www.openwater.jp

Aquathlon Shizuoka/Minami Atami May 22 www.openwater.jp

57th Sapporo Triathlon June 4-5 www.sites.google.com/site/ triathlonsapporo

Minato Sakata Triathlon Oshin Race June 11-12 www.osin-triathlon.com

Chiba Minami Boso Aquathlon June 12 www.openwater.jp

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SPRING 2016

more ravenous and much less selective about what lures they will take at the very start of the season. Within a week or two of the kick-off, the tuna seem to realize they are being hunted and gradually become skittish to the point that, by the middle of summer, they will ignore any lure or bait that doesn’t resemble or move like the anchovies or sardines on which they are preying. They surface to feed in the distance but submerge once a few boats get within casting distance. Sometimes they feed aggressively on juvenile baitfish so small, it’s impossible to match their size with a lure heavy enough cast to them. For many it is headache after agonizing headache, but a good number of anglers become transfixed and go at it every weekend, regardless of how lousy the reports, until the tuna head back to the Black Current in early autumn. Tuna can mess with your mind that way. Many anglers who make it out for the first bite and score at the beginning of the season opt to continue marauding the bay in search of the next bite, but also find it easier to take their minds off fishing to enjoy the beach, barbecues, festivals and other nostalgic vestiges of summer. I say it is better to get the tuna bug out of your system early.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION Readers interested in jumping into Sagami Bay tuna fishing can get outfitted at one of several tackle retailers in the Kanto area. Sansui has several locations around Tokyo, Kanagawa and Chiba: www.fishingtacklesansui.com Proshop Mogi is located outside Azamino Station (Kanagawa): www.proshopmogi.jp

The First Bite T

oward the end of spring, my friends and I start getting a little cagey when it comes to making plans. We decline party invitations, give vague explanations to our loved ones as to why we can’t schedule any important events and generally steer clear of hanging with anyone who is not part of our fishing crew. There is a good reason. From the beginning of May, we are on a watch for an event that for us is more important than Christmas, the Super Bowl, national elections or even landing a man on the moon. Several times a day we visit meteorological sites to check the water temperature, winds and tides; hoping to glean some tidbit of info that will give us the heads-up we need, so we can be portside at the right moment. Rumors float around social media, and everyone gets

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Hasegawa Fishing Tackle is located in Odawara (Kanagawa): www.fishing-hasegawa.com

keyed-up to the point where it’s difficult to get a good night’s sleep. The tuna are coming. We don’t know exactly when, but we know they will show up soon, and barring the sudden death of a loved one or imprisonment, we want to be there for the first bite and the no-holds-barred action. In June 2012, five friends and I boated 13 tuna and five skipjack in a single outing, which was at that time unheard of in Sagami Bay. We knew it was a special moment; that we’d probably never see a bite like that again, but in the back of our minds, we are all thinking you just never know. The tuna, mostly yellowfin, stay around in the bay as late as the end of October, allowing numerous chances to target them, but experienced fishermen know them to be way

Boats targeting tuna launch from several ports along the Sagami Bay coastline. Anglers can contact the captain to book a seat for anywhere from ¥9,000 to ¥12,000. Hayakawa Port (Odawara, Kanagawa) Hiromi Maru: https://m.facebook.com/ odawarahiromimaru Intoku Maru: www.intokumaru.com Oiso Port (Oiso, Kanagawa) Kunimaru: www.scn-net.ne.jp/~kunimaru Hiratsuka Port (Hiratsuka, Kanagawa) Shozaburo Maru: www.gyo.ne.jp/shou3/ Chigasaki Port (Chigasaki, Kanagawa) Kazutoshi Maru: www.kazutoshimaru.net Negishi Port Knot Enuff (English Speaking): www.fishtokyo.com

SPRING 2016

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CHASING GLACIERS IN PATAGONIA パタゴニアの氷河を求めて By Aaron Jamieson

Hokkaido-based adventurer Aaron Jamieson’s quest for fresh lines pulls him down south to the Land of Fire and Ice. 北海道在住の冒険家、アーロン・ジェイミーソンによる「火と氷の大地」の遠征記。

SPRING 2016

Patagonia is nature at its most extreme. Between the epic mountains and ancient glaciers is an enormous expanse of nothingness. パタゴニアの自然は究極の姿。その壮大な山々と古代から続く氷河の広さは無限と思わせる。

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CHASING GLACIERS IN PATAGONIA

atagonia is nature at its most extreme. Between the epic mountains and ancient glaciers is an enormous expanse of nothingness. Planning a route through this arid terrain seems as simple as joining the dots between distant petrol stations and hoping you make it. However, head there with flexible plans and ample time, expecting everything to take twice as long and be equally as difficult as you had anticipated. We arrived in Patagonia with dreams of finding big backcountry lines to ski in nice spring snow conditions, and maybe spotting some llamas (known locally as guanacos) along the way. Instead, we got slapped in the face by wild weather in one of the least forgiving regions on the planet, with the guanacos enjoying a front row seat of our struggles at every turn. The month-long expedition was an experience entirely unlike what we’d planned. While we did eventually manage to ski some decent lines on the second-to-last day, it was the journey that made it an unforgettable adventure. Patagonia is the name given to the southernmost region of South America, a great expanse of mountains, deserts, glaciers and wild terrain. It’s a sparsely populated wilderness almost twice the size of Spain. Our exploration started at Tierra Del Fuego (“Land of Fire”) and it’s easy to imagine this Argentine region being born by violent volcanos of tectonic proportions. Walking around Ushuaia, you really get the feeling this is the most southern city on the planet. Raked by wild, frozen winds roaring across the cold Southern Ocean, this is the Argentine gateway to Antarctica, a hostile environment where sea lions thrive and humans cling to the coastline. Heading north from Ushuaia, we traverse a great expanse of open plains and snow-dusted desert, split by deadstraight, dirt highways. The horizon was a zigzag of frozen mountains, huge and hostile, carved by ancient glaciers. The deserts led us west to the foot of the Andes, where Patagonia soars into the sky with escalators of glacial ice reaching high toward icecaps. Standing at the face of the Perito Moreno Glacier, you feel utterly insignificant. You watch in awe as thousand-year-old chunks of ice the size of churches peel from the glacier into the lagoon below.

パ

タゴニアの自然は究極の姿。その壮大な山々と古代から続く氷河の広さは無限と思わせる。地図上からルートを考えると、なにもない不毛の大地にガソリンスタンドを点

でつなげるような容易さに思えた。しかしながらこの地での旅は、柔軟な計画とじゅうぶんな時間、おそらく地図上で考える倍の行程がかかると考えたほうが賢明だ。春の雪を求めて私たちはこの広大なバックカントリー、パタゴニアを訪れることにした。おそらくグアナコと呼ばれ

るラマもいたるところで見られるにちがいないと期待していたのだが。この地球上で過酷な自然といわれるこの地の気候に打ちのめされて、私たちがスキーと格闘しているときも、たしかにグアナコはすぐそばで楽しんでいた。つまり、1ヶ月にわたる遠征はほとんどが私たちの期待とは違っていたということだ。忘れられない冒険となったのは、最終日の前日に私たちが手付かずの斜面をやっと発見し滑ったことだけだった。パタゴニアの名は南アメリカの最南にある荒野として知られている。山や砂漠や氷河などのその大自然の広さはスペインの2 倍、しかも人間はそこにわずかしか住んでいない。私たちの冒険は「火の土地」として知られるテラデルフエゴ諸島から出発した。ここはアルゼンチンの大地が火山の地殻変動によって形成されたことが容易に理解できる場所だ。ウシャイアの町を散策すると、ここが最南端の都市であることがよくわかる。厳しい自然環境でもすくすくと育つアシカと違って、人間はこの海岸線にしがみつくように暮らしている。極寒の太平洋から吹きつける容赦ない風が、ここが南極への玄関口だということを思いださせる。ウシャイアから北を目指す。風雪の舞う広大な砂漠を二分する未舗装の「ハイウェイ」がその唯一の道だ。地平線には凍りついた山々が連なっている。そのジグザグ模様の稜線は、敵意をむきだしとも表現できるほどの荒々しい巨大な氷河によって削り取られた。砂漠は私たちを西にあるアンデス山脈の麓へと誘った。そこはパタゴニアの空まで届きそうな氷河が高く氷冠のようにそびえていた。ペリト・モレノの氷河に立つと、つまらなさを感じた。しかし数千年をかけて氷河に削られた教会の聖堂のような大きさの氷が眼下の礁湖に向かう光景はすごかった。フィッツロイ山は氷河によって削られたいわば尖塔。世 SPRING 2016

We’d spent four weeks on the road and hiked through and camped in some of the most incredible wilderness we’d ever seen. この 4 週間のハイクやキャンピング中に私たちは生まれて初めて見るような美しい大自然を何度も体験した。

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CHASING GLACIERS IN PATAGONIA Monte Fitz Roy is part of a collection of sheer rock spires engulfed by glaciers and renowned as one of the world’s most difficult mountains to climb. It took us two days of trekking along pristine rivers and through rugged mountains to reach the glacier fronts. We barely encountered another person in the days spent exploring this region and, with drink bottles full of glacial melt water, we felt a certain cleansing of our souls before taking to the road again. The famous Route 40 “highway” consists of dry packed mud, loose gravel, river rocks, potholes and snowmelt. We traversed some 3,000 kilometers—from the southernmost tip of Patagonia to the mountains around Bariloche— covering almost half the length of Argentina. About 200 kilometers from the last town we would see, chugging along the highway at about 100 kph, we took a direct hit from one nasty pothole. The previous 28 days on the road had gradually peeled off the protective plastic liner from the bottom of our car, and this pothole had punctured the fuel line. Rolling to a halt and spraying fuel everywhere, we were in the middle of nowhere with no phone reception and no one to help aside from a few curious guanacos. Suddenly, seemingly out of nowhere appeared a longhaired, 6’6” Argentine Adonis and his much younger (and gorgeous) Brazilian girlfriend. Quickly assessing our situation, they agreed to drive to the next town, another two hours ahead, and would call back to the previous town where they “knew a guy.” Sure enough, six hours later, the guy showed up with pre-machine cut pieces of pipe to repair our car. With mad backcountry mechanic skills, he had our car fixed in no time and, after sharing a laugh and a group selfie, we were on the way again. He drove 400 clicks round trip to help two stranded tourists from the other side of the world… we owed this guy a case of beer, to say the least. We’d spent four weeks on the road and hiked through and camped in some of the most incredible wilderness we’d ever seen. Despite the occasional encounter with the locals, we’d basically spent the last month in solitude, patiently roaming our way through the Andes and hoping for the right conditions to ski. Eventually the mountains in the north mellowed out, the glaciers retreated and we were able to sketch our way through marginal snow conditions and score some solitary turns, sliding to the end of an epic month in Patagonia. ✤

界でもっとも登頂が困難な山として知られている。その氷河壁にたどり着くのに、川や山々を越えて2日かかった。途中で出会った人はほんのわずか、氷河の氷を溶かして飲料としているうちに魂が清められていくような気分に浸った。「ハイウェイ」と揶揄されるルート40号線は乾燥した泥の塊、砂利、岩、窪み、そして残雪の道だ。パタゴニアの最南端からバリローチェの山々までその約 3,000kmを私たちは走破した。つまりアルゼンチンの約半分の長さに相当する。あるとき最後の町を過ぎて200kmほど走ったところで、車が窪みにはまってしまったことがあった。時速 100kmは出ていたと思う。すでに28日間を走破していたから、車の底部に備えられてあったプラスチック製のプロテクターは疲弊して、窪みに乗り上げたショックに耐えられず、ガソリンパイプに傷が入った。ガソリンをそこいらじゅうに撒き散らかしながら車は止まってしまった。荒野の真ん中だ。電話のオペレーターもいないのはもちろん、助けてくれる人はいない。そこには数頭のグアナコがいるだけだった。するとそこに突然、身長が 2mはありそうな長髪の美少年が、ド派手なブラジリアン女性とともにあらわれた。私たちの窮状をすぐに理解したその少年は次の町まで行き、すでに通過した町にいる修理工に連絡を取ってくれる約束をした。その約束とおり、6 時間後に修理工は工具とともにあらわれて車を修理してくれた。この地獄のようなバックカントリーを知り尽くした修理工のおかげで私たちはふたたび笑顔を取り戻し、記念写真をすまして旅を続けることができた。彼は往復 400kmを費やして、地球の反対側からやってきたふたりの旅人を助けてくれたのだ。ささやかなお礼として1ケースのビールを進呈した。この4 週間のハイクやキャンピング中に私たちは生まれて初めて見るような美しい大自然を何度も体験した。偶然出会った地元の人々のほかには、私たちは1ヶ月のほとんどを人里離れた自然のなかで過ごした。旅を続けながら、アンデスの雪のコンデションが良くなるように願った。結果的には北の山々や氷河でなんとか滑られるくらいではあったが、それでもこの地にターンを刻むことができた。パタゴニアのスノーシーズン最後の月だったから、まぁしかたないか。✤ WEB CONNECTION Instagram: aaron_jamieson_ Facebook: AaronJamiesonPhotography Web: www.aaronjamieson.com

SPRING 2016

BEHIND THE SHOT

Mate

マテ茶

After a day of hiking through wet snow plastered to us by frozen winds, the idea of a dry tent and warm sleeping bag is a driving motivation, but for an extra sweetener we discovered mate ; a highly caffeinated, herbal infusion drunk through a metal straw. Here, huddled in our tent after setting up camp in the dark, my expedition partner Teddy melts away the day’s chill with a fresh mate brew.

ぬかるんだ雪と凍りついた風にさらされたハイクを一日終えて、乾燥したテントのなかの暖かいスリーピングバッグは下がり気味のモチベートを持ち直してくれる。それに加えて効き目が高かったのは高カフェインの薬草飲料、マテ茶。金属製のストローで飲むのが本格的。これは夜中にテントを張って疲れ果てたパートナーのテディーがフレッシュなマテ茶で癒されているところ

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CHASING GLACIERS IN PATAGONIA

Glacier Front

氷河壁

Two solid days of hiking in unrelenting wind and rain had done its best to dampen our spirits, but we had forged on, determined to find the glacier fronts responsible for carving out the towering rock spires of Mt. Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.

無慈悲な風と雨のなかを、丸 2日間かけてハイクし、挫けそうになる心をなんとか奮い立たせて目的地を探した。それはフィッツロイ山やセロトーレの尖塔を削り出した氷河壁だ。霧で高い湿度の朝、やがて空が晴れだして太陽の光が山々を照らしはじめた。奇跡的なチャンス到来だ。私たちは巨大な礫岩を迂回して青く光る氷河とその向こうにそびえるフィッツロイ山の山頂を写真に収めることができたしかし 5分もすると天候はふたたび霧と雨に戻ってしまった。笑えてしまうのは行程 5日間のハイクで覚えているのがこの 5分間だけだってこと

After setting out in the gloom of another damp and foggy morning, the day began to clear and the first rays of sunshine started to peek through. By freak chance, as we rounded a corner of enormous boulders, we were met with an iridescent blue ice front and a peek of Mt. Fitz Roy over the shoulder. The moment lasted five minutes, and we were swiftly returned to fog and drizzle. Funny enough, those five minutes were almost all we remember from the five-day hike.

Blue Rivers Clipped into my vinyl seat, the plane buffeting its way toward land on the small airstrip in the desert, I was glued to the window, transfixed by the contrast of barren deserts carved by powering blue rivers. It is this contrast—along with the anticipation of seeing the source of the phenomena, the melt from some of Argentina’s largest glaciers—that is my lasting impression of the Patagonian wilderness.

青い河川砂漠にある滑走路をめざして飛行機は不安定に飛んでいた。私はビニール製の椅子に沈み込んだまま窓の外の景色に釘付けになっていた。青い水色の川が不毛の大地を容赦なく削り取っていった。アルゼンチンの広大な氷河から流れでるその川は、私がかねてから思い望んでいたイメージそのものだった。この一枚がいまでも印象に残りつづけるパタゴニアの大自然

SPRING 2016

The Visayan Islands, one of the three main island groups in The Philippines, is home to some diving hot spots. Diving travelers have many options, but one route that holds a lot of variety is a trip from Negros Oriental to Bohol, island hopping along the way. ビサヤ諸島はフィリピンの主要な諸島グループのひとつで、ダイビングでも有名だ。ダイバーにはさまざまな選択肢があるが、バラエティ豊かなのは東ネグロス州からボホール島へのアイランドホッピングだ。

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REEFS, WALLS AND CRITTERS IN THE VISAYAS ヴィサヤのリーフとウォールと生きものたち

Story & photos by Tim Rock

SPRING 2016

Dauin You’ll most likely fly into Cebu and then make the short plane ride or ferry trip to Dauin via Dumaguette. In fact, when divers say they are going to Dumaguette, the capital city of Negros Oriental, they are really on their way to rustic Dauin. Just 30-60 minutes from the Dumaguette Airport, this longtime macro hotspot rivals Anilao for the odd, rare and wonderful. While still retaining its beachy charm, the area is getting trendier with a mixture of laid-back hotels and more upscale dive boutique hotels, condos and residences. Most of the dives here are sandy or rocky bottoms sloping into the deep. The dive sites offer a variety of critters for divers to discover. In all, there are at least 60 known dive sites between Sibulan, Dumaguette City, Dauin and Apo Island. For the macrophotography nut, this is heaven. Secure a guide with good knowledge of the local Dauin habitat and give him or her a wish list. Then have a blast getting wonderful photos while checking some cool critters off the macro bucket list. Spend four or five days here and then head to Cabilao via Balicasag.

Balicasag This tiny protected marine area is very popular with divers. The island has only five dive sites, but they are all good. There is a dive operator and hotel on the island, but day boats arrive from Panglao, Cabilao and even Dauin. Balicasag’s marine sanctuary status has helped it flourish. It has pretty blue waters with sandy flats running to deep drop-offs. And turtles…so many turtles. Green sea turtles of all ages from young to ancient can be seen in the shallows. It is a wonderful day trip and, at the end of the day, an hour boat trip will land you on the beaches of Cabilao.

ダウインダウインへは、セブ島からドゥマゲテ経由の飛行機で行くことができる。ダイバーが東ネグロス州の首都ドゥマゲテへ行くといったら、それはダウインへ行くことを意味する。ドゥマゲテ空港から30∼60 分ほどで行けるこのマクロ生物のホットスポットは、珍しい生物の宝庫としてアニラオと肩を並べる。ビーチの自然な美しさを残しながらも、リラックス系ホテルやダイバー向けの高級ブティックホテルやコンドミニアムや住居なども増えて、トレンディになってきた。ここでのダイビングは、岩場やサンドボトムの傾斜がほとんどで、さまざまな生き物を見ることができる。シブラン、ドゥマゲテ、ダウイン、アポ島あわせて最低でも60のスポットが知られている。マクロ撮影マニアには天国みたいなところだ。ダウインの生物に詳しいガイドになにを見たいか伝えておけば、それは多様な生物を撮影することができて、マクロ撮影の生物チェックリストから外せるだろう。

バリカサグこの小さな保護エリアはダイバーに大人気である。ダイビングポイントは5つしかないが、どれも最高のスポットだ。島にはダイブオペレーターとホテルもあるが、パンガロやカビラオ、ダウインなどからのボートも毎日就航している。バリカサグは海洋保護区であることでその美しさが守られてきた。真っ青な海水に平坦な砂の海底が深いドロップオフにつながる。そしてウミガメ。とにかくウミガメが多い。浅瀬ではあらゆる年代のアオウミガメを見ることができるだろう。日帰りにもお薦めの場所で、帰りはカビラオまでボートで1時間の距離だ。

T R AV E L E R

REEFS, WALLS AND CRITTERS IN THE VISAYAS

Cambodia China Indonesia Maldives Mozambique Qatar Thailand United Arab Emirates Vietnam Zambia

SPRING 2016

Cabilao This rugged, small limestone isle is a relaxed place with five picturesque villages, no automobiles and a good range of beachfront hotels and dive operations. The triangularshaped island sits to the west of Bohol, facing Cebu Island. Divers love this place, as it has a nice variety with 20 dive sites all around its shores, as well as a couple other spots on nearby islands. Most sites offer easy diving; you step in starting deep, with interesting terrain all the way to the shallows. You can enjoy current-fed points with batfish, barracuda and sturgeon fish schools, and spot large and small sea turtles. There are some absolutely stunning soft coral displays along the walls as well as large gorgonian sea fans home to pygmy seahorses and other large sea fans. You can easily spend another four days here before heading to a new place in Bohol that is getting noticed called Anda.

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REEFS, WALLS AND CRITTERS IN THE VISAYAS Anda The Anda area is a relative newcomer to the diving scene but is being developed while balancing tourism and conservation. Getting to Anda is a pleasant ocean-side ride along the southern coast where fruit stands line the road and rice paddies flourish. Dive resorts and retreats are situated along the coast where limestone cliffs, separated by sandy beaches and some scattered rock islands, cater to divers in quiet and natural surroundings. Boutique resorts such as Amun Ini are dedicated dive resorts that specialize in finding macro creatures. The guides are popular with all levels of divers, photographers and videographers. They will impress you with their knowledge including the Latin names of odd and unusual marine critters found here. For miles along the shore, shallow reef flats are covered in beautiful corals that extend to drop-offs, ending in sandy slopes that extend into the depths.

The limestone walls present some canyons, cracks and crevices and even small caves. These walls and overhangs hold plenty of sponges, large soft coral trees and gorgonian sea fans. Below these drop-offs are sandy flats ranging from areas with various coral heads and cleaning stations to deeper sites with huge black coral gorgonian bushes. Divers can see hawk fish in the big black corals and the odd sawblade shrimp in small black corals. The beautiful Coleman shrimp pairs live in fire urchins and so do the wonderfully patterned zebra crabs. This area has only been thoroughly explored in the last half-decade, and it seems every macro critter on your bucket list can be found here. The area is still largely undeveloped and quiet. Spend another four or five days here, and you’ll have an amazing two-week dive safari to some of the most amazing reefs in the western Pacific. ✤

カビラオこの険しい石灰石の島には絵に描いたような美しい5つの村があり、車はないがビーチフロントのホテルとダイブオペレーターがある。ボホールの西、セブ島の正面にあたる場所にある三角形の島である。海岸線にそって20ものバラエティ豊かなスポットがあり、近隣の島にも数か所スポットがあるのでダイバーには人気だ。簡単なダイビングがほとんどで、深い所から浅瀬にいたるおもしろい地形を楽しむことができる。流れがある場所では、バットフィッシュやバラクーダ、チョウザメ科の群れなどのほか、大小さまざまなウミガメもいるだろう。壁には息をのむ美しさのソフトコーラルや、タツノオトシゴなどが隠れている大きなウミウチワも見どころだ。ボホールの新スポットとして知られはじめたアンダへ行くまでに、ここで4日ほど滞在することなどあっという間である。

アンダアンダは比較的新しいエリアではあるが、観光と自然保護のバランスを取りながらも開発が進んでいる。アンダへは田んぼと果物の屋台が並ぶ南側の海沿いの道が連れていってくれる。石灰石の岸壁と白い砂浜に岩でできた島が点在する海岸沿いにはダイブリゾートやリトリートがあり、静かな自然環境のなかダイビングを楽しむことができるアムンイニといったブティックリゾートはマクロ生物を専門にしている。あらゆるレベルのダイバー、フォトグラファー、ビデオグラファーに対応したガイドは、ここに生息する珍しく不思議な生物たちのラテン語名まで知っているほど知識豊富だ。何マイルにもわたってつづく平たんな浅瀬のリーフは、美しいサンゴが砂地のスロープまで海底を覆い、深いドロップオフへとつながっていく。石灰石のウォールには渓谷やクラックや小さな洞窟まであり、スポンジコーラルや大きなソフトコーラル、ウミウチワなどが生息している。ドロップオフの下に広がる平たんな砂地にはサンゴやクリーニングステーションが、そこからさらに深い場所では巨大なブラックコーラルゴルゴニアン（ウミトサカ）の林が広がっている。大きなブラックコーラルのあいだにはゴンベが、小さなブラックコーラルのあいだにはソウブレードシュリンプもいるだろう。ファイヤーアーチンには美しいコールマンシュリンプやみごとな模様のゼブラクラブが住んでいる。このエリアは発見されて6年ほどしか経っておらず、手つかずで静かなところがいい。チェックリストに載せたすべてのマクロ生物が生息しているような場所だ。ここであと4 ∼ 5日滞在すれば、西大西洋でも随一の 2 週間ダイビングサファリを体験することができるはずだ。✤

SPRING 2016

REEFS, WALLS AND CRITTERS IN THE VISAYAS

Getting There Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines have daily flights from Haneda and Narita airports to Cebu Island. Cebu Pacific: www.cebupacificair.com Philippine Airlines: www.philippineairlines.com

When to Go March to May is the summer season: expect clear skies and calm waters. It’s a great time for diving, but be prepared for the heat. June to August is typhoon season, so keep an eye on the weather forecast as it can help you avoid poor visibility and travel. November to February is a popular time to visit, as temperatures are milder. People come to enjoy the long Christmas celebrations, so be sure to book early.

T R AV E L E R

行き方東京からセブ島まではセブパシフィックとフィリピンエアーが毎日就航している。

Cebu Pacific: www.cebupacificair.com Philippine Airlines: www.philippineairlines.com

おすすめの時期 3月から5月は夏で、澄み渡る空と静かな海が期待できるのでダイビングには最適だが、暑さにご注意を。6月から8月は台風の季節なので、透明度にも影響するため、天気図に注意が必要だ。11月から 2月は人気の時期。水温もほどよく、長いクリスマス休暇を楽しむ人も多いので、早めの予約をお薦めする｡

SPRING 2016

Getting Your Jig on in 34

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The Malaysian evening sun was blazing on the horizon as we entered the choppy South China Sea. As the sun set, local Muslim fishermen completed their evening prayers on the roofs of their fishing boats. Aided by a full moon, the seasoned fishermen turned on lamps in hopes of attracting sotong (squid) closer to the vessels.

荒れ模様の南シナ海に入ると、水平線にはマレーシアの太陽が燃えていた。陽が沈むとともに、イスラム教の漁師は、漁船の屋根の上で夕方の祈りを終えた。満月がのぼると、漁師たちはイカをおびき寄せるために漁船の灯りをともした。

Terengganu

トレンガヌでジグ釣りを楽しむ By Rie Miyoshi

SPRING 2016

Getting Your Jig on in Terengganu

rom April to September, sotong approach the waters near Terengganu in large numbers to lay their eggs. Fishermen here, on the northeastern coast of Peninsular Malaysia, set off in colorful boats, using their instincts and experience to locate the valuable catch. Once a year, visitors can join the action. We started off late, as squid are most active at night, attracted to light as they hunt in shoals near the seabed. The boat stopped, and

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we set anchor about 20 minutes off the coast in deep water. “This is one of the spots where squid gather,” our boat’s helmsman said with confidence. What followed was a test in patience. Instead of a fishing rod, we were armed with a simple jig set, which consists of a handline made of nylon that has three luminous “jigs” attached with sharp spikes at the end of the line. I threw the jigs into the water and let the line run until it touched the sea floor. As instructed, I began “jigging” the line, jerking the line up and down and waiting for an unsuspecting squid to wrap its tentacles around the hooked lures. The strong currents added deceptive weight to the line, but once a squid latched on, there was no mistaking; it was time to reel in fast before the squid could escape. At the end of the long night, we fried our bounty with spicy curry powder over a small stove on the boat. The rest we saved for ketupat sotong versi Terengganu, or squid filled with glutinous rice and cooked in sweet coconut milk and spices. With a long coastline facing the South China Sea, Terengganu has been a key trade route and fishing point as early as the 6th century. Fishing remains a major industry today, along with petroleum, gas and tourism. Squid jigging is one of the earliest, simplest and most economical forms of catching squid and is still practiced by small-time fishermen and hobbyists.

In recent years, however, local fishermen struggle against corporate trawlers, relocating youth and land reclamation, which has led to dwindling numbers of fish. Although Terengganu faces development in its coastal cities, dig deeper, and you will find a tight-knit spirit within the local communities. In keeping with Malaysia’s unbridled love for festivals, Terengganu hosts several events planned to attract tourism that will directly give back to the community, including the annual International Squid Jigging Festival. For more information on how you can join, visit www.facebook.com/SquidJiggingTGG.

Getting There Visitors traveling to Terengganu will fly into Sultan Mahmud Airport via Kuala Lumpur International Airport. AirAsia, Firefly, Malaysia Airlines and Malindo Air all have regular flights from Kuala Lumpur.

Essential Info Tourism Terengganu can help organize a unique experience and the age-old tradition of jigging along the coast of Terengganu that was once the livelihood of the fishing village community. You can also rent a boat or arrange a fishing trip at your hotel. Web: www.tourism.terengganu.gov.my e-mail: tourismterengganu2014@gmail.com

月から9月のあいだ、イカは産卵のためにトレンガヌ

的なイカ漁の方法で、現在も漁師や趣味のイカ釣りの釣

の付近までやってくる。マレーシア半島北東海岸

り人によって受けつがれている。

の漁師たちはカラフルなボートに乗って、直感と経

験をたよりにイカ漁に出る。

最近は法人漁船が増えたり、埋め立てなどの影響で魚の数が減少しており、地元の漁師にとっては厳しい状況と

そして、一年に一度、観光客も漁を見ることができる。なっている。浅瀬までエサを探しにやってくる夜行性のイカが漁船の漁

トレンガヌも沿岸部は開発が進んでいるが、奥地を探れ

火（いさりび）にひきよせられるのを見るため、出発は遅め

ば固い絆（きずな）の残るローカルコミュニティに出会える

だ。ボートが出てから20 分ほどで水深のある場所に錨（い

だろう。根っからの祭り好きのマレーシア人だが、トレンガ

かり）を降ろした。

ヌでも年に数回祭りが開催されることで、観光客を呼びコ

「ここはイカが集まってくるんだ」とボートの船長が自信ありげに言った。ここからは辛抱強さが試された。釣りざおの代わりに使うのは、ナイロンのラインに輝くジグがついたシンプルなジグセットだ。わたしもジグを投げ入れ、海底に届くまでラインを伸ばした。言われたとおり、ラインを上下させながら、なにも知らないイカがルアーのフックに巻きついてくれるのを待った。海流がラインに重みを与えるが、じっさいにかかればそれはすぐに分かる。かかったらイカが逃げる前に急いでリールを巻きあげなければならない。長い夜の後、ボートに備え付けの小さなコンロでつくったカレー風味のイカを楽しんだ。残りのイカは ketupat

sotong versi Terengganu（もち米を詰めてココナッツミルクとスパイスで煮込んだイカ）のために取っておいた。南シナ海に面する長い海岸線を擁するトレンガヌは、6 世紀ごろから貿易と漁業の中心地となっていた。今日でも漁業は、石油、ガス、観光に次ぐ産業である。ジグでのイカ釣りはもっとも昔からおこなわれているシンプルで経済

Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa

offers an Authentically Bali™ experience through the feature of its 382 guestrooms and suites; highlighting the admirable views of the ocean and gardens.

Nusa Dua Spa

ミュニティへ還元されている。スクイッドジギング・フェスティバルもそのひとつである。参加方法など詳細はこちらでご確認を。

www.facebook.com/SquidJiggingTGG

a spa pioneer on the island, retains the rich Balinese tradition through its marvelous designs and variety of treatments.

行き方トレンガヌへはクアラルンプール空港からスルタン・マァムド空港へ。エアアジア、ファイヤーフライ、マレーシア航空、マリンドエアなどが定期的に飛んでいる。

お役立ち情報 Web: www.tourism.terengganu.gov.my e-mail: tourismterengganu2014@gmail.com かつての漁村の生活手段でもあったイカのジグ釣りを楽しみたいならば、トレンガヌ観光局へ問い合わせ

NUSA DUA BEACH HOTEL & SPA, BALI – INDONESIA Tel: +62 (361) 771 210 reservations@nusaduahotel.com www.nusaduahotel.com

てみるのも手だ。もしくはホテルでボートをレンタルしてもらえるかもしれない。

SPRING 2016

Photo by Addul Aziz Yusof

Getting Your Jig on in Terengganu

FIVE THINGS TO DO IN TERENGGANU 1 Snorkel and Dive in Redang Marine Park

this Chinatown different is the blend of Chinese and Malay influences resulting in Peranakan culture. Next to your usual pharmacies, wet markets and herbal shops are street art and open-air exhibitions by local creatives. While the streets tend to be sleepy during the day, weekend nights are filled with young film camera-toting hipsters hanging out in cafes, showcasing their artwork and street performances.

Redang Marine Park is comprised of nine small islands 14 kilometers off the coast of northeastern Terengganu, with Pulau Redang being its biggest island. Here you can snorkel and dive in waters teeming with damselfish, sergeant majors, wrasses, parrotfish, triggerfish, moray eels, groupers, batfish and angelfish. The busiest house reef is around Tanjung Tengah in Pasir Panjang where lucky visitors might see Green or Hawksbill turtles, squid, barracuda and black-tip sharks. Redang is an hour ferry ride from Shahbandar Jetty in Kuala Terengganu (Terengganu’s capital). The public ferry comes three times a day, and tickets can be purchased at the jetty for MYR50 one-way. Always check with your resort for ferry timings and cancellations and check in 30 minutes before departure. There are 14 resorts at Redang, ranging from budget hotels to luxury resorts. For more information, visit www. redangisland.com.

Surfing in Southeast Asia conjures up images of Bali or Cloud 9 in the Philippines. But during the monsoon months of November to March, you will be surprised to find decent waves at lesser-known surf spots such as Batu Burok in Kuala Terengganu and Kijal in southern Terengganu. Surfing may be an emerging sport in Malaysia, but big surf brands including Quiksilver have already hosted international competitions here.

2 Get Down to Chinatown

4 Kenyir National Park Recreation

“Terengganu” means rainbow in Malay, and vibrant Chinatown certainly lives up to that name. What makes

Lake Kenyir, the largest man-made lake in Southeast Asia, is a popular spot for angling during monsoon season

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3 Malaysian Surf

and water sports during the dry months. Constructed in the late ’70s, this freshwater lake was built to generate hydroelectric power and stop flooding. Sitting on the border of Taman Negara National Park, Lake Kenyir and its surrounding rainforest attracts hikers who want to explore waterfalls and caves. Hiking tours can be arranged from lakeside resorts such as Lake Kenyir Resort (www.lakekenyir.com). If you are traveling with children, bathe with elephants at the Sungai Ketiar Elephant Sanctuary before taking a boat to Kenyir Water Park. This open-air, floating bouncy-housemeets-obstacle-course will be an instant hit with kids (and parents).

5 Explore Islamic Culture Terengganu was the first Malay state to receive Islam and today, Malays make up nearly 95 percent of Terengganu’s population. The Crystal Mosque in the Islamic Civilization Park is a popular attraction with its glass domes reflecting the sky during the day and illuminating the Terengganu River at night. Visitors may enter the mosque but must wear longsleeved robes and hijabs for women (available at the entrance). The massive Terengganu State Museum in Bukit Losong is a 20-minute ride from the city and houses ancient artifacts, crafts and Islamic artwork.

トレンガヌでのアクティビティベスト5

1 レダンマリンパークのスノーケルとダイビング

た淡水湖だ。タマンネガラナショナルパークに隣接するケニール湖と周辺の熱帯雨林は滝や洞窟を探索するハイカーたちに人

ナタウンはペレナカン文化を創りあげた中国とマレーの影響があることで異色ともいえる。おなじみの薬局や生鮮市

気だ。ハイキングは、Lake Kenyir Resortなど湖周辺のリゾートがアレンジしてくれる。www.lakekenyir.com

レダンマリンパークは、トレンガヌ北東の海岸から14kmあ

場、ハーブショップなどの隣には、地元のアーティストたち

たり、パラウレダンをメインの島とする９つの小さな島々か

の作品が展示されたりしている。

象と水浴びを楽しんでからケニールウォーターパークーター

らなる。ここでのスノーケリングやダイビングは、スズメダイ、

日中は静かだが、週末の夜になるとフィルムのカメラを

パークへ行くのもおすすめだ。障害物つきのバウンスハウ

サージェントメジャー、ベラ、ブダイ、モンガラカワハギ、ウ

携えたヒップな若者たちがカフェなどに集まって、作品を

スが浮かぶ屋外のウォーターパークは子供（もちろん大人

ツボ、バットフィッシュ、エンゼルフィッシュなどを楽しむこと

展示したりパフォーマンスを繰り広げる。

にも）には最高の遊び場だ。

3 マレーシアでのサーフィン

5 イスラム文化を探る

ができるだろう。タンジュンテンガ・エリアでさまざまな魚を見るならパシルパンジャン。運がよければアオウミガメやタイマイ、イカ、

子供連れならば、Sungai Ketiar Elephant Sanctuaryで

バラクーダ、ブラックチップシャークなどが見られるかもしれ

東南アジアでのサーフィンといえば、バリやフィリピンのク

トレンガヌはマレーの州として最初にイスラムを受け入れ、

ない。

ラウド９が有名だが、モンスーンのシーズン、11月から3月

今日ではトレンガヌの人口の 95%をマレー人が占める。

レダンへは、クアラトレンガヌ（トレンガヌの首都）にある

になると、南トレンガヌのキジャルやクアラトレンガヌのバ

Islamic Civilization Parkにあるクリスタルモスクは人気で、

シャバンダールの突堤からフェリーで行くことができる。一

トゥブロックなどの、まだ知られていないスポットで波乗り

ガラスのドームが日中は空を映し出し、夜はトレンガヌ河を映し出す。

チケットは片道MYR50。その日のフェ日に3回運航しており、

ができることに驚くかもしれない。

リーの運航状況については宿泊先でご確認を。チェックイ

マレーシアにおけるサーフィンはまだ発展途上ではあ

観光客はモスクの中に入れるが、長袖のローブと女性

ンは出発30分前までに済ませよう。

るが、クイックシルバー主催の国際試合なども開催され

は入り口で渡されるヒジャブを身に着けなければならない。

レダンにはラグジュアリーなリゾートから格安ホテルまで14

ている。

のリゾートがある。詳細はこちら。www.redangisland.com

2 チャイナタウンへ

4 ケニールナショナルパークへ

街から車で20分の場所にあるブキットロソングにある巨大なトレンガヌ州立美術館では古代の美術品や工芸品、イスラムの芸術などが展示されている。

ケニール湖は東南アジア最大の人口湖で、モンスーン

トレンガヌはマレー語で虹を意味するのだが、活気あふれ

シーズンには釣りが、乾季にはウォータースポーツが盛ん

るチャイナタウンはまさに名前の通りの町だ。ここのチャイ

だ。水力発電と洪水軽減のために70 年代後半に作られ SPRING 2016

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Yanbaru

UNTOUCHED NATURE

“ やんばる ” の無垢の自然 By Rie Miyoshi

Hot tea and mochi is always a good idea after a windy hike. I had just descended Mt. Deisan Damui on an uncharacteristically chilly day in Okinawa. Although the 230-meter high karst cone took only 20 minutes to reach, I was on all fours for the majority of the hike, balancing on loose boulders while watching out for venomous habu (pit vipers). The view from the top overlooking the East China Sea was a brief, yet satisfying, reward before scampering back down the sharp ridge.

冷たい風が吹きつけたハイクを終えて、わたしはお餅と温かいお茶をいただき、寛ぐことができた。今日は沖縄にしては涼しい日で、わたしはデーサンダームイを下山したばかりだった。標高230mのカルスト地形の山頂へは20分ほどの時間だった。わたしを含む4人での山登りは、礫岩の上でバランスを取りながらハブに注意して登った。山頂からは東シナ海が見渡せたが、その報酬の代わりにふたたび険しい尾根を下らなければならなかった。 SPRING 2016

t the base, 59-year-old Kimiko Yasuda brewed tea leaves while I munched on her homemade mochi (glutinous rice) and jimaami (brown sugar peanut brittle), all locally sourced. To the untrained eye, the surrounding forest blends into one big vegetative mess, but for Kimiko, it is a fertile harvest ground. “We learned from our parents what vegetables to use for cooking, which herbs are good for the body. This is passed on from one generation to another,” Kimiko explained. Born and raised one hill away from Mt. Deisan Damui, Kimiko used to cross the jagged karst terrain barefoot to get to school. Back in the carefree ’60s, she and her friends would explore the hills and caves or go down to the beach until sundown. Today, the children of Yanbaru don’t play outside nearly as much. They tend to stay inside, tanning themselves beneath smartphone screens instead of Okinawa’s enviable rays. Visitors usually drive up to the famous Chiraumi Aquarium, then return to their resorts in southern Okinawa. Meanwhile, plots of nature trails and snorkel spots are left untouched. An hour drive from Naha Airport, Yanbaru in the northern part of Okinawa Island includes the fishing port town of Motobu, the farming village of Nakijin, western Nago City and neighboring Iejima Island. The land is generally flat, making for a leisurely bike ride past hibiscus bushes along the coast, narrow streets through traditional neighborhoods, such as Imadomari, and stretches of farmland with the occasional resident water buffalo. A quick look around Yanbaru will reveal Chinese-

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influenced architecture and traces of Okinawa’s ancient Ryukyu Kingdom. During the Gusuku Period, in the 14th century, the Hokuzan principality which controlled northern Okinawa, was based in Nakijin. The ruins of castle walls and gusuku (Okinawan for “fortress”) still line the hills at the World Heritage site, Nakijin Gusuku. Unlike mainland Japan’s crammed cemeteries, Okinawa has a long-lasting tradition of honoring the dead with massive kamekobaka tombs, a family burial vault shaped like a tortoise carapace. These tombs are also found in China’s Fujian Province and across Taiwan. Everywhere you go, pairs of shisa statues watch you from tiled roofs and gateways. Okinawa’s iconic mythical lion dogs are said to have come from China and guard the home from evil spirits. But what’s Okinawa without the ocean? The isolated northern coast is as beautiful as the hyped-up southern resort beaches. The warm Kuroshio current, which runs through Okinawa, provides the ideal environment for about 200 types of coral, tropical fish, rays and sea turtles in crystal clear waters. During the winter (January to March), humpback whales return from the Aleutian Islands for their seasonal breeding. Venture past the coral for kayak fishing. On a lucky day, you can catch mackerel, grouper, smelt and goatfish (mullet). It is delicious barbecued with salt and awamori, Japan’s oldest distilled liquor indigenous to Okinawa and made from long grain indica rice. Keep your arms and legs

inside the kayak while fishing – although attacks are rare, sharks can be found lurking in deep waters. Across the western coast of Motobu is Iejima, a halfhour ferry ride from Motobu Port. This 23-square-kilometer island is made up of farmland, sugar cane and tobacco plantations, iegyu cattle ranches and a population of fewer than 5,000 residents. Mt. Gusuku, jutting out in the middle at 172 meters high, is a 10-minute ascent up steep stairs to the lookout. Cycling around Iejima is another refreshing way to take in the island vibes. This sleepy island with its corroding concrete buildings and the aroma of burning sugar cane wafting in the air hides an unhappy history. Iejima played a major role in the war as the starting point for Japan’s surrender. In the 1950s, farmers were violently forced to give up their land by the U.S. military while being under-represented by the Japanese government and subsequently held a peaceful protest led by “Okinawa’s Gandhi,” Ahagon Shoko. Today, Iejima receives federal funds, and the U.S. military controls the northwestern portion of the island. As I circled Iejima, I found remnants from the past such as the abandoned central airstrip and Niya Thiya Cave, where 1,000 residents successfully hid during the war. Yanbaru is an outdoor haven longing to be appreciated by enthusiasts looking to escape the hustle and bustle of commercial tourism. The best way to tour this area is by bike to maneuver your way through old beachside communities and discover remnants of the ancient Ryukyu Kingdom. ✤

山

Yanbaru

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のふもとでわたしが地元の餅や黒糖をまぶ

れていた14世紀頃、沖縄の北部を統治していた北山王統

した甘いピーナッツを食べているとき、59

は今帰仁を中心地としていた。風化した城の壁と城は、

この静かな島にある朽ちかけた建物と、サトウキビの燃

歳のキミコ・ヤスダさんがお茶をいれながら

今帰仁城として世界遺産にも登録されている。

えた臭いには不幸な歴史がある。伊江島は第二次世界

選択かもしれない。

日本の本州のような狭い墓苑とは違い、沖縄は伝統の

大戦（太平洋戦争）で日本軍が最初に降伏した場所で

に囲まれた野菜畑だが、キミコさんにとっては肥沃で耕作

ある亀甲墓と呼ばれる大きな埋葬室に死者を埋葬する。

あった。1945年、この島の農民たちは日本政府からのわず

地だという。

その名のとおり、見た目は亀の甲羅のようだ。このような

かな支援だけで日本軍とともに激しく抵抗した。しかしアメ

「わたしは両親から野菜をどう調理するか、また薬草がど

墓は中国の福建省から台湾を通って沖縄に伝来したよう

“沖リカ軍の圧倒的な兵力によって陥落した。その後には

う効くかを教えられました。これは代々受け継がれていくの

だ。また屋根や玄関でよく見られるシーサーは沖縄の空想

縄のガンジー” と呼ばれる阿波根昌鴻氏による平和的抵

です」とキミコさんは説明した。

上の獅子で、その家を災いから守ってくれるという言い伝

抗があった。今日の伊江島はアメリカ軍が基地として北部の一部を使用し、補償金を受けとっている。伊江島を散

いろいろな話をしてくれた。素人目には森

デーサンダームイとは別の場所でキミコさんは生まれ

えがあり。これも中国から渡ってきたという。

た。周辺のカルスト台地の岩の山道を裸足で歩いて学校

沖縄には海しかない？無垢の自然がある北部の海岸

策すると、古い滑走路などの過去の遺産がまだ残ってい

に行ったという。 ‘ 60 年代はのどかで、彼女は友達と丘や

は、観光として整備された南のビーチリゾートより美しい。

た。そのひとつ、ニャティヤ洞窟は戦時中に1,000 人もの住民を救ったという。

洞窟を探検したり、海で陽が沈むまで遊んだという。今の

暖かい黒潮による影響で、沖縄には200 種類以上のサン

やんばるの子供たちは外であまり遊ばなくなった。子供た

ゴや熱帯魚、エイや海亀が透き通った海に泳いでいる。1

“やんばる” はアウトドア天国、とくに旅行会社に押し付

ちは沖縄の太陽の下ではなく、家の中でスマホのスクリー

月から３月の冬のあいだにはザトウクジラがアリューシャン

けられたような観光からは抜け出したいような人にはぴった

ンばかり見ていると嘆いた。

海域よりやってきて、ここで繁殖をはじめる。岩礁でのカ

りの場所だ。お薦めの遊び方は自転車を借りること。海

観光客は有名な「ちゅらうみ水族館」には訪れるが、

ヤック・フィッシングもできて、幸運ならばサバやハタ、キュ

沿いの古民家や琉球王朝の遺産を自分のペースで散策

自然道やスノーケリングは体験せずにリーゾトホテルに

ウリウオやヒメジを釣ることができる。バーベキューのとき

することができる。✤

戻ってしまう。だから自然はほとんど手付かずの状態に

は、塩と泡盛を飲んでみよう。それは沖縄伝統の蒸留酒

なっている。

で、米が主原料。でも、カヤックでフィッシングをするときに

那覇空港から一時間の “やんばる”地域は、漁業の盛ん

は腕をカヤックから外にはできるだけ出さないようにしよう。

な本部港、農作の今帰仁、そして西には名護市、伊江島

まれにサメが深い海から飛びだしてくることがあるのだ。

などで構成されている。この地域は平坦で、のんびりと自

伊江島は本部港からフェリーで30 分のところにある。

転車に乗って海岸沿いのハイビスカスの木々を抜けたり、

23km 平米の広さのこの島は農耕が盛んで、サトウキビ

今泊などの古い集落のあぜ道や抜けたり、ときには放牧し

やタバコの農園がある。伊江牛の牧場もここにあり、人

ている水牛と出会うハプニングもあって、楽しい。

口は5,000 人ほど。グスク山は標高 172m 、急な階段を

“やんばる”の文化は中国大陸の影響を強く受けてい

10 分ほど登ると眺望の開けた景色が楽しめる。伊江島

て、家屋などには古代琉球の風情を感じる。御城と呼ば

でのサイクリングはさわやかな気分にひたれるから、いい

Standard bike rentals are available at Fuku Rental Cycle at Emerald Beach for ¥1,000 per day (www.fukugi-namiki. com). Road bike rentals should also be available soon (www.yanbaru-tour.net). 自転車のレンタルはエネラルドビーチの福レンタサイクルなら1日1,000 円で借りられる。ロードバイクのレンタルは現在準備中とのこと。

www.fukugi-namiki.com SPRING 2016

Iejima / 伊江島

Iejima is a half-hour ferry ride from Motobu Port for ¥1,370 round-trip (¥690 for children). Public ferries depart four-to-five times a day depending on the season and weather. Bike rentals are available at TAMA Renta Plan across the street from Ie Port for ¥1,000 per day (¥800 for children). Web: www.tamarentapro.com 本部港からフェリーで30分。往復1,370円（小児 690円）で日に4∼5便。自転車は港にあるタマレ。ンタル企画で一日1,000円（子供用は800円）

www.tamarentapro.com

Bisei Beach / 備瀬ビーチ

Ie Island Iejima Airport

You’ ll notice white sand turn into rocky surfaces as s beach you head down to Hotel Orion Motobu Resort’ and go all the way down your right. Bisei Beach is a fun snorkel stop with tide pools teeming with sea urchins, coral reefs and tropical fish. オリオンモトブリゾートの海岸をさらに先に進むと白い砂から磯に変わるのがわかる。そこが備瀬ビーチと呼ばれ、ウニや熱帯魚などが干潮のタイドプールでシューケリングをしながら楽しめる。

Mt. Gusuku / Mt. Tacchu 城山 / 伊江島タッチュー Because Iejima is so flat, you’ re able to view the entire island from its highest peak at Mt. Gusuku. This craggy mountain is the result of a rare crustal deformation where old rock layers are shifted to the top of a newer layer underneath, meaning the mountain is older than the surrounding land. You might want to pick up a bag of Okinawan beniimo (sweet red potato) chips at the souvenir shop at the base for your hike up the mountain.

Wajee Lookout / 湧出の眺望

Dramatic sea cliffs edge the northern coast of Iejima and make for a picturesque sunrise or sunset. You can cycle down to the base of the cliffs where the residents used to store fresh water. 伊江島の北側にある崖は日の出と日の入りが見られる美しい景色で有名だ。自転車でふもとまでアクセスできる。ここはかつて水源地でもあった。

平らな伊江島にそびえる城山からは島全体が見渡せる。このゴツゴツ岩山は地殻の変動によって土中の古い岩が盛り上がったもの。したがってこの山は島よりも年代が古い。山の麓にはお土産屋があり、ここで売っている沖縄紅芋のチップスはお薦め。

Niya Thiya Cave / ニャティヤ洞窟

Also called“Sen-nin Cave,”or“Thousand People Cave,”this sea-facing landform served as a bomb shelter for 1,000 Okinawans during the Battle of Okinawa. This cave is popular as a“power spot,” housing the Bijiru Stone believed to bless women who pick up this small boulder with a child. 「千人窟」とも呼ばれるこの洞窟は防空壕として戦時中に1,000人もの沖縄の人を救った。ここはパワースポットとしても知られていて、ここにある小石（ビジル石）を拾うと子宝に恵まれるという。

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Mt. Deisan Damui / デーサンダームイ

As the highest cone karst in the neighborhood, this mountain is a quick hike if you want to check out Motobu from above. Although there are signs leading to the trail from the parking lot, keep your eyes peeled as the route up is a discreet turn from the paved road. Wear gloves and appropriate hiking wear, as there are sharp rocks, branches and snakes. ここはカルスト地形の山で本部エリアの景色が見たければここが良い。しかしここをハイクするときは標識とルートマップをよく確認して思慮深く行動すること。鋭い岩肌や茂み、また蛇などの対策に手袋や登山ウェアの着用をお薦めする。

Nakijin Gusuku / 今帰仁城

Remains of Gusuku Period’ s fortresses stand at this World Heritage site. Overlooking a ravine enveloped by limestone hills, the castle walls were built by the Hokuzan king during the 14th Century. Admission is ¥400 for adults (¥300 for children) and includes access to the Nakijin Village History & Culture Center. Web: www.nakijinjo.jp/english 世界遺産に登録されている古城、今帰仁城は14 世紀頃に北山王によって建てられた。入場料は大人400円、子供は300円。今帰仁村歴史文化センターも見学できる。www.nakijinjo.jp

Yanbaru

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Hokusan Shokudo Hibiscus /

北山食堂、ハイビスカス This Showa Period-inspired restaurant and lodge brings senior Japanese guests back to their childhood and delights foreign visitors looking for a flavor of mid-1900s Japan. Hokusan Shokudo Hibiscus serves authentic Okinawan cuisine including pork belly, chanpuru (stir-fried bitter melon), fresh sashimi , thinly cut pigs’ears, umi budou (sea grape seaweed) and Okinawan soba made complete with a dash of kooree-gusu , chili marinated in awamori liquor. Web: www.haibisu.com 昭和の雰囲気が漂うレストラン。宿もあり、年長の日本人観光客や1900年代の日本に興味のある外国人にも人気がある。ここは伝統の沖縄料理も提供しており、豚のホルモンやチャンプルー、新鮮な刺身、豚の耳、海ぶどう、そして沖縄そばも食べられる。泡盛で漬けた唐辛子、コーレーグースを数滴垂らしたら完璧だ。 www.haibisu.com

Unten Port and Warumi Bridge 運天港とワルミ大橋 Kayaking the strait between the peninsula and Yagaji s marine Island gives a different vibe of Okinawa’ life, with mangroves lining the coast and sea caves waiting to be explored. Warumi Bridge connects s-eye Yagaji to mainland Okinawa and offers a bird’ view of the winding strait. Ocean Bridge Okinawa operates kayak tours starting from Unten Port. Web: www.oceanbridge-okinawa.com 屋我地島へカヤックで渡ると沖縄とはまた違った海の生態系が観察できる。またここにはマングローブや洞窟があり、訪問者を待っている。沖縄本島を結ぶワルミ大橋からは俯瞰で海峡を眺めることができる。カヤックツアーはオーシャンブリッジ沖縄に問い合わせてみるといい。www.oceanbridge-okinawa.com

Nakijin

Yagaji Island

Motobu

Mount Yae

Orion Happy Park / オリオン・ハッピーパーク See how Okinawa’ s trademark Orion Beer is brewed on a 40-minute tour of the plant in western Nago. Best of all, this free tour ends with free beer tastings at Yanbaru no Mori Orion Beer Garden. Web: www. orionbeer.co.jp

沖縄のビール、オリオンビールの工場見学は西名護でできる。この40分の無料見学には無料の試飲も含まれている。www.orionbeer.co.jp

Nago Bay

Nago

Mainland Okinawa

SPRING 2016

A S O M R FO T S IF R S T N E C S DE N HIAVO

RRIS

E HA Y MIK

Andy belaying Akira as he makes his way to the edge on the crux move in Marishan Canyon.

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PHOT

S SC BY GU

“Water flows humbly to the lowest level. There is nothing more submissive and weak than water. Yet for attacking that which is hard and strong nothing can surpass it.” Laozi (from “Tao Te Ching”)

SPRING 2016

“I

can see the confluence,” I yelled back to the other members of the team. Cheers rose from the other side of the swollen river. We had finally reached the end of the first descent of the Marishan Canyon after an epic seven days deep in Taiwan’s mountains. We still had more than a day ahead before we’d reach civilization again, but we had made it out of the canyon section safely and just in the nick of time; the rising river was turning brown from the heavy morning rain. As the euphoric smiles that had spread throughout the team began to fade, it started to sink in that we had completed a world first in canyoning: an eight-day selfsupported trip through what turned out to be one of the toughest and most technically demanding canyons in the world.

Mind Spring The inspiration for the Taiwan Canyoning Expedition began in 2013 when Akira Tanaka showed Andy Humphreys and me some photos of canyons he and some Japanese sawanobori (shower climbing) friends had recently completed. We were blown away by the scale and length of the canyons and the waterfalls. There were one-kilometer deep ravines that stretched for days. Canyoning trips are usually done as day trips. There are only a handful of canyoners around the world who have done overnight canyoning adventures, let alone a full-week expedition. In 2011, a French team attempted the Chamje Kola canyon in Nepal, but after just two days, they were forced to escape. Through our collective canyoning network, we put together our dream team: eight adventurers from seven countries, each with extensive canyoning experience and other specific skills.

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PHOTO CAPTIONS Clockwise from above, right: Andy rappelling "cowboy-styleâ&#x20AC;? in Wutai Canyon. Ryoji at 3,000 meters, searching for a route into Marishan Canyon. Akira at Marishan approach camp after a long day in the canyon. Akira checking the pool below in Marishan Canyon. Andy, Mike and Jasmine warming up at cave camp in Marishan Canyon.

SPRING 2016

Ryoji getting amongst the water on a 40m pitch in Wutai Canyon.

Altered Course We decided to split the expedition into two equally important parts. Part One would include shorter trips (oneto-four days) to practice and hone technique and teamwork, test the gear and learn about the geography. Part Two would be the big adventure. Twelve days in the Xia Kan Canyon. In mid-March, right after we arrived for the second part of the expedition, the rain began. It was a ceaseless rain that seemed to hang directly over the Xia Kan. We were forced to come up with a Plan B. Ten days inside a flooded canyon one-kilometer deep would have been suicide. Jasmine, our local guide and queen of logistics, together with Ryoji, one of the legendary sawanobori climbers, quickly came up with a new plan. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d instead head to Marishan Canyon and then go after a couple of one-day first descents. To attempt a pioneering expedition such as this, we had to draw on techniques from many disciplines: multi-day hiking, mountaineering, shower climbing and of course canyoning. We also had to develop some new techniques and source ultra-light equipment to cut back (swimming with a 30+-kg. bag is not fun). The light and fast techniques we developed here will open more opportunities for canyoning exploration. Exciting, as we had just dipped into the possibilities in Taiwan. Commercial canyoning in Taiwan is still in its infancy with only a handful of customer trips operated by a few local operators, the main two being Adventure Taiwan and ZA Adventure. The goal of the Taiwan Canyoning Expedition was to bring the immense potential to the global canyoning community. A documentary on the trip is slated to be released in September. To see more photos and media from the trip, visit the Taiwan Canyoning Expedition Facebook Page at FB:taiwancanyoning.

Mike Harris is a New Zealander who founded Canyons, an outdoor adventure company in Minakami, Japan. Gus Schiavon is a Brazilian photographer with a strong focus on canyoning. He is currently based in Queenstown, New Zealand. The team would like to give a big shout out to the sponsors who made the trip possible: Finetrack, Rodcle, Watershed, GoPro, Mochizuki, TAIT and Instamic.

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GUIDE LINES

CANYONING Explore Japan’s Hidden Places

Japan’s mountainous terrain and generou s ra i n fa l l c reate s s ome of the best conditions in Asia for canyoning. The advent ure spor t i nvolves descend i ng water fa l ls, careening down natural rock slides and splashing into refreshing pools. There are hundreds of world class canyons to choose from where you can explore some of Japan’s most beautif u l hidden places. May to October is generally the best time for some waterfall fun.

Minakami, Gunma Prefecture

Kusatsu, Gunma Prefecture

Minakami is known as Honshu’s adventure capital and the birthplace of canyoning in Japan. It has a great selection of aquatic canyoning courses ranging from mellow half-day courses, great for first timers or families, to adrenalin-packed full-day adventures. The high water season is from May until June, but the more advanced canyons open from July. Web: www.canyons.jp

Kusatsu is one of the most famous onsen areas in Japan and the thermal activity that feeds the natural hot springs, as well as the volcanic rock, creates some truly unique canyoning courses. Here you can explore Dear Canyon, one of Japan’s highest vertical courses, as well as the depths of Poison Canyon, one of the only hot spring canyoning courses in the world. Web: www.canyons.jp

Hakuba, Nagano Prefecture

Yoshinogawa, Kochi Prefecture

Japan’s Northern Alps tower roughly 3,000 meters above Hakuba Village and receive heavy snowfalls each year. Come spring this pure snow melts, feeding the many waterways including Kamoshika Canyon. In spring the high water is great for adventure seekers and in summer the water level is perfect for families and children who can enjoy flying foxes, waterfall repels, natural slides and more. Web: www.evergreen-hakuba.com

Shikoku, the oft-forgotten island, is home to some of Japan’s best canyoning. The warm climate, steep rugged mountains and abundance of clear, fresh water add up to a great canyoning destination. Here you can get away from the crowds and enjoy some of Japan’s most pristine nature. This is the real deal with 40-meter waterfall descents and big waterslides. The season in Shikoku goes from June to October. Web: www.happyraft.com

SPRING 2016

GUIDE LINES

White Water Sports

Exciting rapids and mellow floats Japan’s rivers are generously fed by the heavy snowfalls creating fa s t-f low i ng rapid s for some great whitewater action as well as gentle meandering f loats for first-timers and families. Rivers are classified into grades from 1 (nearly flat water) to 6 (so rough it is considered too dangerous to navigate). Most tours range from G r ad e 2- 4 a n d a ny t h i ng o v er Grade 3 requires participants to be 12 years or older.

Tone River The Tone River is Japan’s second longest river. It is famous for high water in late spring from May to June. The source of the river is near Minakami Onsen, making it perfect for an adventurous rafting session, with almost 30 kilometers of whitewater, followed by a relaxing soak in the hot springs. During the summer, the river mellows, and Minakami is a familyfriendly town with plenty of other activities on and off the river. Web: www.canyons.jp

Fuji River Enjoy a view of iconic Mt. Fuji while rafting down the Fuji River in Shizuoka. Even though the Fujikawa is noted to be one of the three fastest flowing rivers in the country, this winding 128-kilometer river is consistently Grade 2 and 3, so isn’t too extreme. The views are stunning and feature waterfalls, arches and cliffs you can dive off. Rafters tend to flock to this river in late July to early autumn,

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when the whitewater is strongest. Web: www.naturalaction.co.jp

Tama River Okutama’s lush forests and deep valleys make it hard to believe you’re still in Tokyo. Just a little over an hour away from central Tokyo, the Tama flows through Okutama’s mountains at a constant Grade 2 year-round. The section for rafting starts in front of Mitake Station, a popular bouldering area. Okutama makes a great quick escape from Tokyo. Web: www.canyons.jp

Nagatoro River A nother easy day tr ip from Tok yo is the up s t rea m sec t ion of t he Nagatoro R iver located in Saitama Prefecture. The river has a relatively stable whitewater flow throughout summer, staying at a Grade 1.5 to 2 with its peak season being in August. The Nagatoro a rea i s fa mou s for it s m i r ror-l i ke a z u re

streams, beautiful valleys lined with cliffs, and iwadatami (literally translated as rock tatami mats) that are naturally formed rock layers. After a day of working out your arms in the boat, soak in a hot spring bath. Web: http://event.montbell.jp

Yoshino River Head fa r t her sout h to Sh i kok u for some exciting spr ing and summer raf ting. The season star ts earlier than most areas in Honshu, so raf ting enthusiasts can star t rafting as early as March. During typhoon season in late August to early September, the Yoshino River has arg uably the most thrilling rapids in Japan. The World Rafting Championships will be held here in 2017. The Yoshino River’s Koboke section is one of Japan’s prime whitewater runs—not just for the size and scale of the river, but also the clear emerald warm water and stunning canyons. Web: www.happyraft.com

Green Field

Tree House Eco Adventures

Feel i ng clau st rophobic ? Hop on t he Shinkansen from Tokyo and less than two hours later youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll emerge in the fresh air of northern Shinshu to take a deep breath. Nozawa Onsen is better known for skiing and powder, but the traditional hot spring village comes alive in the green season. Green Field is an outdoor tour and event company spearheaded by Nozawa Onsen local Kenji Kono. Kenji, a professional skier and The North Face-sponsored athlete, and his two brothers Katzu and Naoto, are household names in the ski industry in Japan. Kenji has won and placed five times in ski cross at the World Cup level. His older brother Katzu competed in Alpine ski events around Europe and in ski cross at the World Cup level, while Naoto is an accomplished snow and skate sport athlete in

his own right. The brothers live and breathe outdoors throughout the year and launched Green Field to share the natural beauty around their village. Visitors can enjoy SUP tours and rafting on Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longest river, the Chikuma River, or more relaxed paddling on Lake Hokuryuko, Lake Nojiri and Lake Okushinano. A highlight of their tours is sleeping under the stars at Tree Camp, a private campsite built on the mountainside among the trees complete with an aerial tent and treehouse. Tree Camp is as natural as it comes with no electricity and kitchen facilities and a great place to BBQ with friends. Campers can pick fresh vegetables from the adjacent field, which uses no pesticides. Events also include traditional v illage

rice planting with local farmers to start off the season and rice harvesting in autumn. Bookings are limited to one night per group, but there are many other accommodation options in the village. Web: www.nozawagreenfield.com

SPRING 2016

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY HOKKAIDO

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Discover Nature, Discover Yourself. TAIWAN

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