Outdoor Japan Traveler Magazine - Issue 60 - Summer 2016 by Outdoor Japan

ISSUE 60 | SUMMER 2016 | FREE

JAPAN’S CAVE MAN Art in the Inland Sea

瀬戸内の島々を巡るアートフェスティバル

Diving Kanto’s Coast

大都会近郊にある、魅力あふれるダイビングスポット

Summer Alpine Adventures, Shizuoka Surf, Beer Buzz, Midnight Cycling and more!

Shaping the Future in Bali バリで未来を形作る

ADVENTURE

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PEOPLE

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C U LT U R E

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TRAVEL

NANCY GONZ ALEZ Photo by : Nancy Gonzalez

SUMMER 2016

I N S I D E I S S U E 6 0 ■ S U M M E R 2 016

18 SUBTERRANEAN HOMESICK BLUES 地底人のホームシック・ブルース

F E AT U R E S

Diving Kanto's Coast 大都会近郊にある、魅力あふれるダイビングスポット

Subterranean Homesick Blues

INSIDE

Shaping the Future in Bali バリで未来を形作る

Refreshing Alpine Adventures

地底人のホームシック・ブルース

Art in the Inland Sea 瀬戸内の島々を巡るアートフェスティバル

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5 Day Hikes from Tokyo

From the Editor

Summer Events

Beer Buzz

Market Watch

The Local Brew

Let’s Go! Tanzawa Oyama Yamanami Stamp Rally

Travel & Adventure Directory

SUMMER 2016

■ FROM THE EDITOR Gardner Robinson, Editor-in-Chief gardner@outdoorjapan.com

ummertime in the Land of the Rising Sun is buzzing. If you live in Japan, or have visited during the summer months, you’ll know it is literally abuzz as the unmistakable sound of cicadas fills the sultry summer air. Their natural backing vocals set the stage for colorful, traditional matsuri , fireworks festivals and the countless outdoor music festivals. In every major city (and some rural spots, such as Mt. Takao) people are cooling off after work, getting on their summer buzz at outdoor and rooftop beer gardens as well as craft beer festivals. If you can stand the heat, summer is a fun time to be in Japan. With events happening every weekend, the conundrum is often choosing where to go each weekend. Our 60th issue features some great ways to beat the heat from some long-time Japan residents. If you’ve picked up The Japan Times, you’ve undoubtedly enjoyed a column by Amy Chavez; her off-beat humor and keen observations on life in Japan are always a

great read. Amy has been living the slow life on Shiraishi Island, sailing the Seto Inland Sea and, in summer, running the popular Mooo! Bar, where visitors go to enjoy some beachside drinks and find out what’s going on. This summer, a lot is happening. Every three years the Seto Island Setouchi Triennale Art Festival takes place on some of the islands in the Seto Inland Sea. If you’ve wanted to visit this beautiful part of Japan, this is your chance. Enjoy island hopping while seeing some beautiful creations from talented and wellknown artists and taking in the summer island vibes. Our local diver gal, Bonnie Waycott, finds some great diving close to home. Shizuoka has long been a popular getaway for Kanto residents, and Atami in particular, has a long history as a famous seaside hot spring resort, as well as an unintentional overnight stop for drunk salarymen who fall asleep on the Tokaido Line. Follow Bonnie as she explores the waters off Atami

and Miyagawa Bay. If diving isn’t your thing, check out some of the fun things to do at the southern tip of the Izu Peninsula, in the popular resort town of Shimoda. We’ve also included a Shizuoka surfing guide to round out the fun. From the sea to the summit, Tony Grant, author of “10 Classic Alpine Climbs of Japan,” and the popular climbing blog, “Climb Japan,” shares some great summer alpine activities. From trekking to trail running to shower climbing (sawanobori ), Japan’s nearby mountains are an amazing playground and make a refreshing escape from the city. There’s more to enjoy in our Summer issue, including Japan’s top caver, Beer Buzz and Local Brew for craft beer lovers, city cycling tours and how surfing shaped some Bali surfers’ future. Also, be sure to check out our Summer Calendar and our Travel & Adventure Directory for more ideas to get the most out of the season.

日

出ずる国の夏がやってきた。日本に住んでいモラスなコラムは読んでいて楽しい。エイミーは白石島所だ。今回、ボニーは熱海・宮川湾でのダイビングをたり、夏に日本を訪れたことがあるならば、日で長らくスローラーフを送っており、瀬戸内海でのセイリ案内してくれる。日本南端の伊豆半島、とくにリゾートエ本の夏は蝉の鳴き声であふれていることをごングを楽しんだり、夏になると、ビーチで飲みながらさまざリア下田でのお薦めアクティビティもお楽しみに。また、存知だろう。そしてこの自然のBGMが、色鮮まな情報交換ができる、人気の “Mooo! Bar” を経営して静岡ではサーフィンについてもフィーチャーした。やかな伝統的なお祭りや花火はもちろん、野外フェスないる。 Climb Japanという人気ブログを書くトニー・グラントはどを盛り上げてくれるのだ。大都市では（高尾山などの今年の夏もさまざまなイベントが目白押しだ。3年ごと『 10 Classic Alpine Climbs of Japan 』の著者でもあり、涼しげな場所でもそうだが）、だれもが仕事後には屋上におこなわれる瀬戸内トリエンナーレ国際芸術祭が瀬今号では夏のアルペンでの楽しみ方を教えてくれる。トビアガーデンやクラフトビールのお祭りなどで涼を取る。戸内海の島で開催予定だ。美しい瀬戸内海エリアをレッキング、トレイル・ランニングから沢登りまで、日本の暑さに耐えられるなら、日本の夏は最高にお薦めだ。週訪れるなら今がお薦めだ。アイランドホッピングで島の山々は都会の喧噪から逃れるには最高の遊び場だ。末ともなれば、あちこちでイベントがおこなわれているの夏を楽しみながら、著名なアーティストの作品も堪能しそのほか夏号では、クラフトビール愛好家のためのビで、問題はどのイベントを選ぶか、である。てほしい。アバズとローカルブリュー、都会のサイクリングツアー、ボニー・ワイコットは家の近所にすばらしいダイビングバリのサーファーの未来を形作るサーフィンの記事など 60号目の今号では日本在住歴の長い人物たちから、暑さをしのぐための提案がいくつかある。ジャパンタイムスポットがあることを発見した。関東在住者に人気の静を紹介している。そして、この夏お薦めのアクティビティスを読んだことがあるならば、エイミー・チャベスのコラム岡や海辺の温泉街として人気の熱海は、酔っぱらってには、ぜひサマーカレンダーとトラベル＆アドベンチャー・を知っているだろう。日本についての的確な指摘とユー東海道線で寝過ごしてしまうサラリーマンにも人気の場ディレクトリを参照してほしい。

OUTDOOR JAPAN TRAVELER Published Seasonally Publisher Outdoor Japan Media

Media Coordinator Rie Miyoshi

Editor-in-Chief Gardner Robinson

Contributing Editors Wayne Graczyk, Shigeo Morishita

Editor Bill Ross

Translators Kumiko Kurosaki, Yoshine Lee, Eri Nishikami, Kazusa Murai, Lana Sofer

Art Director Yuki Masuko

Contributors Joan Bailey, Lee Dobson, Eddie Gianelloni, Bryan Harrell, Neil Hartmann, Abdel Ibrahim, Pauline Kitamura, Takashi Niwa, Tim Rock, Robert Self, Justin Stein, Bonnie Waycott, Craig Yamashita Sales & Marketing media@outdoorjapan.com

©2015 OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED. VIEWS EXPRESSED HEREIN ARE NOT NECESSARILY THOSE OF OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. PRINTED IN JAPAN.

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Cover Photo: Deep in Yamanashi by Katsuji Yoshida

SUMMER 2016

GUIDE LINES

SUMMER EVENTS

uests can also enjoy live paint artists and massage therapists and staying in local hotels and inns with rel

Long, hot days, shaved ice and cold beers in the garden — the cicadas are buzzing and summer is here!

Rokko Sun Music Discover some great local alternative bands at the Rokko Sun Music Festival. Unlike many of today’s trendy music festivals, this event is still a completely music-focused event. When: July 2-3 Where: Rokkosan Country House, Hyogo Web: www.rokkosun-music.com

Shonan Hiratsuka Tanabata Festival The Shonan Hiratsuka Tanabata is the biggest of its kind in the Kanto Region and definitely the most colorful. The matsuri is held on the northern side of Hiratsuka Station. When: July 8-10 Where: Hiratsuka Station, Kanagawa Web: www.tanabata-hiratsuka.com

Donavon Frankenreiter

also feature live paint artists and massage therapists. Explore the Shinshu Takayama Region while you’re in the area and discover some excellent hot springs and cycling trails. When: July 9-10 Where: Yamada Bokujo, Nagano Web: www.happyfarmmusicfestival.com

Ocean Peoples Festival Surf meets the city. Held in the middle of Yoyogi Park, this music festival is for people who love surf and beach culture. In between breaks, check out the outdoor market and surf ‘ n’ turf food stalls. When: July 9-10 Where: Yoyogi Park Web: www.oceanpeoples.com

Surf rock musician Donavon Frankenreiter will be touring Japan starting at the Corona Sunsets Music Festival in Okinawa and followed by two solo performances in Tokyo and Osaka. When: July 2-3, July 5-6 Where: Okinawa, Tokyo and Osaka Web: www.surfrockintl.com

Peaceful Love Rock Festival Shitamachi Tanabata Festival The Asakusa and Ueno districts get decked out every July for Tanabata, the Japanese Star Festival. Tanabata is traditionally celebrated by writing a wish on a strip of paper and tying it to bamboo before burning it, but Kappabashi Hondori’s festivities take it further. See shamisen performances, taiko drumming, awa odori dance troupes and parades on this colorful weekend. When: July 6-11 Where: Ueno Kappabashi Hondori, Tokyo Web: www.shitamachi-tanabata.com

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If you’re in Okinawa this summer, don’t miss this peaceful festival featuring artists from around Japan and South Korea. Up-and-coming artists auditioned to be selected for the event, which focuses on promoting Okinawan rock and amateur bands. When: July 9-10 Where: Okinawa City, Okinawa Web: www.peaceful-love-rock.com

Happy Farm Music Festival Taking place on Yamada Bokujo Farm, this eclectic festival will be bringing in more than 20 reggae and rock bands and will

Enoshima Tenno Festival

Slide the City

Shonan is a great place to be any day in summer, but on July 10, it’s even better as Enoshima hosts a traditional festival from 9:30 a.m. at Hetsunomiya Shrine. The festival follows locals carrying a mikoshi (portable shrine) into the sea. Two other shrines (Koyuguri Shrine and Yasaka Shrine) also parade through the main street until evening. When: July 10 Where: Enoshima, Kanagawa Web: www.enoshimajinja.or.jp/ yasakajinjareisai

What better way to cool off than on a glorified slip ‘n’ slide?! Slide the City lets everyone feel like kids again during some fun water activities. Cool down at the “splash” stages and with water fights. This wildly popular festival attracted more than 30,000 guests last year. When: July 16-17 Where: Odaiba, Tokyo Web: www.slidethecity.jp

XTERRA Japan Trail Run XTERRA Japan is back with an exciting run through the Hokkaido wilderness. XTERRA Trail Run offers 10-30K runs and 3K races for kids. This year’s course goes through the forests of Shimukappu Village. When: July 10 Where: Yuufutsu-gun, Hokkaido Web: www.xterrajapan.net/trailrun

Belgian Beer Weekend Sunset Live 2016

To celebrate the friendship between Belgium and Japan, the Belgian Beer Weekend, held from April to September, will have two final sessions in Sendai and Tokyo. Head over for a fun weekend of good beer, music and good times. When: July 14-18, Sept. 16-25 Where: Sendai and Tokyo Web: www.belgianbeerweekend.jp

There are 28K and 12K races, plus a kidfriendly 200-meter Strider Bike race and an after party from 7 p.m. When: July 30 Where: Nozawa Onsen, Nagano Web: www.nature-scene.net/nozawa

Muro Festival This one-day Tokyo music festival features local bands for a full day of rock ‘n’ roll while overlooking the harbor. When: July 31 Where: Shinkiba Studio Coast, Tokyo Web: www.murofes.com

Fuji Rock Festival Japan’s most famous summer music festival celebrates its 20th year this July. Escape to Niigata’s mountains for an impressive line-up of artists of all genres including Red Hot Chili Peppers, Beck, Ben Harper & The Innocent Criminals, Sigur Rós, Disclosure and much more. When: July 22-24 Where: Naeba Ski Resort, Niigata Web: www.fujirockfestival.com

Rock in Japan Festival Not one, but two, weekends of Rock in Japan Festival this year with a spectacular line-up each day. Held at a breezy seaside park, this “rock festival” is rather mild, featuring a more mainstream selection of local rock and pop bands. Be sure to buy your tickets in advance as they tend to sell out quickly. When: Aug. 6-7 & Aug. 13-14 Where: Hitachi Seaside Park, Ibaraki Web: www.rijfes.jp

Sea to Summit 2016 Montbell’s annual event series features their own version of a triathlon starting in the water kayaking, followed by biking and then hiking to the peak. There are seven events left to join across Japan running until November. If you’re thinking of signing up, don’t be intimidated – although challenging, this race is open to all levels. When: July 23-Nov. 13 Where: All Japan Web: www.montbell.jp

Nozawa Trail Fes Race through Nozawa Onsen this summer as the famous winter resort hosts a trail run from Uenohira to Hikage Gondola.

Montbell Mountain Day

Belgian Beer Weekend

Aug. 11 is “Yama no Hi,” (Mountain Day) in Japan. What better way to celebrate the mountains than by participating in one of Montbell’s trekking or canyoning tours across Japan. Join and receive an original bandana. When: Aug. 11 Where: All Japan Web: http://event.montbell.jp/ plan/?cid=29

SUMMER 2016

GUIDE LINES Rising Sun Rock Festival

Photo by n-foto RSR team

Photo by Uchū Taishi Star

Hokkaido is the coolest place to be in summer and RSR is a great reason to go. Camp out in the beautiful port city of Otaru for two days of non-stop music. There is a nice selection of booths selling local produce, delicious seafood and craft beer. When: Aug. 12-13 Where: Ishikari Bay New Port, Hokkaido Web: http://rsr.wess.co.jp

Rising Sun Rock Festival Photo by Uchū Taishi Star

Tohoku Reggae Sai

Summer Sonic

Go north for Tohoku’s biggest reggae festival with local bands including Homegrown, Fireball, Pushim, J-Rexxx and Thunder. The festivities start at noon. When: Aug. 13 Where: Iwate Kogen Snow Park, Iwate Web: www.tohoku-reggaesai.com

The urban alternative to the Fuji Rock Festival features some of the world’s top pop and rock bands. This year top international artists including Weezer, Radiohead, Flo Rida, Alesso and Fergie. When: Aug. 15-16 Where: Makuhari Messe, Chiba, and Maishima, Osaka Web: www.summersonic.com

Nature Day Camp Organized by The North Face Kids Nature School, this day camp teaches your young ones about the environment along the Kumada Coast on Awaji Island. When: Aug. 14 Where: Awaji Island, Hyogo Web: www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/kids-ns

Shin-Etsu Trail with Kids Organized by The North Face Kids Nature School, this two-day trip is a great starting trail for your young ones. Camp and trek along the famous Shin-etsu Trail in Nagano, cook outdoors and pitch your

tents at the Akaji Campsite. Tents, stoves and cooker rentals are available for an additional cost. When: Aug. 20-21 Where: Shin-etsu Trail Web: www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/kids-ns

Windblow Blend ocean fun and music at Windblow, a relaxed seaside festival with a good mix of acoustic blues, jazz and a bit of pop. When: Aug. 27-28 Where: Sagara Seaside Park, Makinohara, Shizuoka Web: www.windblow.jp

The North Face Kids Nature School

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SUMMER EVENTS

XTERRA Japan Championship The global XTERRA triathlon comes to Minami Furano, Hokkaido, for serious mountain biking, trail running and cycling around Lake Kanayama. When: Sept. 2-4 Where: Minami Furano, Hokkaido Web: www.xterrajapan.net

Tokyo Jazz Festival Attracting world-famous jazz artists, this festival has grown to become one of Japan’s largest international music festivals. When: Sept. 2-4 Where: Tokyo International Forum, Tokyo Web: www.tokyo-jazz.com

Sunset Live 2016 Kyushu’s most popular outdoor festival marks its 24th year in 2016. The massive beachside set-up is a far cry from the humble parking lot beginnings. The hippie vibe and beautiful natural location is the ideal way to end your summer festival season. When: Sept. 3-4 Where: Keya Itoshima, Fukuoka Web: www.sunsetlive-info.com

New Acoustic Camp This acoustic-only music festival in the Gunma mountains is a great place to be with friends and family. Not only is there a great line-up of local musicians, but also plenty of workshops and kid-friendly activities for you to make the most of this outdoor weekend. When: Sept. 17-18 Where: Minakami Kogen Resort 200, Gunma Web: www.newacousticcamp.com

Kyoto Music Expo Held right before fall hits, the 10th annual Kyoto Music Expo is a quirky one-day festival featuring local contemporary artists. Advance tickets are sold at ¥8,888 (in Japanese, it is read as “pachi-pachipachi-pachi” to mimic the sound of applause). When: Sept. 18 Where: Umekouji Koen Shibafu Hiroba, Kyoto Web: www.kyotoonpaku.net

The Labyrinth With experimental techno sounds, a “DJ teepee” and an impressive sound system

Sunset Live 2016

Mt. Katano Rogaining Rogaining is a sport of long-distance cross-country navigation using route planning to create checkpoints. The North Face Kids Nature School plans a fun oneday outing around Osaka’s Mt. Katano. When: Sept. 10 Where: Mt. Katano, Osaka

The Japan Cup Chigasaki The best SUP athletes from around the world will be battling it out in the water in Chigasaki this September. Expect to see athletes including Mo Freitas, Chloe Rose Walkerdene, Tim Cyprien, Fiona Wylde, Kenny Kaneko, SUP TOMO and Masayuki Yacu Takahata. When: Sept. 10-11 Where: Chigasaki Headland Beach, Kanagawa Web: www.supu.co.jp/race

and lighting set-up, this giant techno dance party in Niigata is a must-visit if you’re into outdoor raves. When: Sept. 19-21 Where: Naeba Greenland, Niigata Web: www.mindgames.jp

The North Face Ultra-Trail Mt. Fuji Every year, the world’s top trail running athletes compete in this three-day, 100-mile race while enjoying incredible 360-degree views around Mt. Fuji. The shorter STY (Shizuoka to Yamanashi) is held on Saturday. When: Sept. 23-26 Where: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Web: www.ultratrailmtfuji.com

SUMMER 2016

BEER BUZZ

By Justin Stein

Toasting Trans-Pacific Cooperation

hen you consider how many friendships are created or cemented over a pint of beer, perhaps it should be no surprise the craft brewing industry is filled with collaboration. Upcoming craft brewers commonly remark on the assistance they receive from more established ones in acquiring ingredients, equipment and techniques. An increasingly common expression of this camaraderie among brewers is the collaboration beer, where two or more breweries come together to craft a recipe and brew a beer, often a “one-off” special release. An early example was when American craft breweries Avery (Colorado) and Russian River (California) discovered they each made a beer called Salvation. Rather than go to court, they blended their beers into a rich, complex Belgian strong ale called Collaboration not Litigation (8.5%). As Japanese brewers rise in the craft brewing world, they are becoming regular collaborators with international brewers. One of the first (and most frequently brewed) of such collaborations is the excellent Isseki Nichō (9.5%) “Imperial Dark Saison” created in 2009 by Luc “Bim” Lafontaine, then of Montreal’s acclaimed Microbrasserie Dieu du Ciel, and Eigo Sato of Nagano Prefecture’s Shiga Kogen Beer. The first time I tried this beer, which takes its name from the Japanese expression, “One stone, two birds,” I swooned over how it combined dark chocolate from the roasted malts, citrus from the late addition American hops, peppery spiciness from the saison yeast and a smooth, round mouthfeel from oats and wheat. While the beer is essentially an imperial stout fermented with saison yeast, it is more than the sum of its parts—like any good friendship. Bim shared with me that Isseki Nichō was years in the making. He fell in love with Japan in 2004—his first of many trips here—when he met a Canadian ex-pat growing silkworms in a “paradise mountain village” near Mt. Takao. A few years later, on a pilgrimage to his favorite craft beer bar, Kura Kura Ji-Beer House (then in Shimokitazawa, but since relocated to Kanda), he tried Shiga Kogen’s beer for the first time. Impressed, he asked the waitress about them, and she recounted their remarkable story—an eight-generation sake brewery that expanded into craft beer. On his next trip to Japan, Bim visited Shiga Kogen and, although he was unable to meet their brewer, Eigo Sato, he left some Dieu du Ciel bottles, including Péché Mortel, their renowned imperial stout. Years later, Bim credits this gift as helping to start their friendship. Back in Montreal, Bim spoke so enthusiastically about Japanese craft beer to the president of the Mondial de la Bière festival, she hired him to include a number of Japanese

T R AV E L E R

breweries to these festivals in Montreal and Strasbourg (France). Bim invited Sato to give a talk at the festival about the Japanese craft beer scene: “I thought his visit was also a great opportunity for Dieu du Ciel to do its first collaboration—something fun and with a great story,” said Bim. As Bim loved Shiga Kogen’s Takashi Imperial Stout, he thought it would be a great base for the beer. After exchanging dozens of e-mails, the two of them developed the recipe, and Sato came to Montreal with a suitcase packed with almost 5 kg. of Shiga Kogen’s estate-grown Shinshu Wase hops. This would be Sato’s first experience working with saison yeast; notable, as his Yamabushi line of saison is today among Japan’s finest examples of the style. Issek i Nichō was a suc c ess, and they eventually made another version in Japan. Bim recalls, “The Japanese version ended up being different in many ways but still delicious. So many parameters were different, like Shiga Kogen’s mountain water, their homegrown hops and sake rice additions, yeast pitch, and fermentation temperature, resulting in a drier, but still very balanced, Dark Imperial Saison.” Like the proverbial stone that catches two birds, Bim says, “Two countries, two cultures, two breweries, two styles, resulting in one friendship beer.” After having since done collaborations with a number of other Japanese breweries, Bim hopes to host them at his new facility in Toronto, Godspeed Brewery, which may even employ a Japanese brewer if his Canadian visa works out. Stone Brewing Company (California) has made a regular practice of three-way collaborations, releasing several every year, and some of their most popular and most original have been with Japanese brewers. In 2011, they collaborated with Baird Brewing (Shizuoka) and Ishii (Guam) to create Japanese Green Tea IPA (9.2%), which adds Japanese sencha into a massive dry-hop schedule (including Sorachi Ace, a hop developed in

Japan) to create a unique beer where the floral notes and astringency of the tea worked harmoniously with hops from the U.S. and New Zealand. The beer was so popular, it was revived in 2015 (even stronger, at 10.1%), and imported to Japan by Nagano Trading. Stone’s newest collaboration, with Coedo (Saitama) and Garage Project (New Zealand), ranks among their most inspired. Tsuyu Saison, brewed in New Zealand during Japan’s rainy season in 2015, employs the fruit forward hops Jarrylo (U.S.) and Motueka (N.Z.) and was aged in freshly emptied Chardonnay barrels with Japanese plums and red shiso. These bottles are limited and b eautiful, g rac efully c ombining elements of American farmhouse ales, New Zealand white wine and Japanese umeshu (plum wine). These types of trans- Pacific collaborations should be more and more common as Japanese craft brewers become more recognized around the world and as international craft beers become better known in Japan. Bim adds, “The North American way of sharing information and knowledge is slowly installing itself in the Japanese mentality, resulting in better beers, I think.” Sounds like the start of some beautiful friendships, something to which we can all raise a glass.

Festival Roundup July 1-10, Oktoberfest Tohoku (Sendai) July 14-18, Belgian Beer Weekend (Sendai) July 15-17, BeerFes Osaka July 22-24, Tochigi Craft Beer Festa July 30-31, BeerFes Nagoya Aug. 11-14, Kyushu Beer Festival (Fukuoka) Aug. 27-28, Craft Beer Festival (Akita City) Aug. 27-28, Whiskey and Beer Camp (Nagano) Sept. 9-19, Oktoberfest (Tokyo) Sept. 14-19, Kyushu Beer Festival (Fukuoka) Sept. 16-25, Belgian Beer Weekend (Tokyo) Sept. 17-19, BeerFes Yokohama Sept. 19-30, Kyushu Beer Festival (Kagoshima)

MOOOO! BAR K

nown as the “island of mists and trances,” peaceful Shiraishi Island in the Seto Inland Sea is prized for its cultural traditions, fiery sunsets and clean beaches. But unless you speak Japanese, getting around might be tricky. That’s why Moooo! Bar and Calfe was launched and remains the island’s only English-speaking bar — and visitor information center – rolled into one. “We wanted to create a fun place for visitors to have a beer or two while making new friends after a fun day outdoors,” owner Amy Chavez says. Shiraishi Island has a long history of attracting foreign visitors, and Amy and her husband Paul have been an integral part of connecting non-Japanesespeaking tourists with the 542-person local community and events. Moooo! Bar even offers reservation services for the island’s accommodation and kayak/windsurfing rentals and lessons through their Web site. The bar is open only a few months a year: during Golden Week and every day in July and August, peak months for Shiraishi Island. This year, Mooo! Bar opened Moooo! House, a three-room womenonly guest house operating out of a traditional 150-year-old Japanese house. Moooo! Bar is located right in front of the

By Joan Bailey

MARKET WATCH Osaka’s Odona Marche

ough-and-tumble Osaka is as famous for its delicious food as it is for yakuza. It is no surprise then that one of its longest running markets is also one of its best. Started in 2009 as part of the Marche Japon movement, the Odona Market remains a mainstay of fresh, local and seasonal food. The array of items on offer from regional farmers and fishermen lends truth to the port city’s reputation as Japan’s kitchen. The Odona Marche is particularly unique in that it runs mid-week and late in the afternoon. Vendors, a number of whom also sell at one of the handful of weekend markets around the city, set up in front of the posh Odona Department Store, just over the bridge from busy Yodoyabashi Station, every Wednesday afternoon, rain or shine. Faithful customers and visitors will find an excellent assortment of seasonal fruits and vegetables along with local rice and grains, eggs, tsukemono, baked goods, tea and even bubbling Styrofoam crates of fresh seafood. Numa Farm, whose nearby orchards boast a wide variety of yuzu, including the shishiyuzu (a softball-sized fruit whose thick skin is good for candied peel or making plenty of yuzu zest), appears at Odona and one other market. While they offer fresh fruit in the winter

beach, where you can rent sea kayaks and wind surfboards, lessons in Japanese also available from Amy’s friend Shigeru “Sea-kun” Mr. Harada (look for a man in an aloha shirt and a ponytail). After the beach, head inland for nature hikes dotted with little shrines or experience the local culture. The most famous attraction may be “Shiraishi O-dori,” a 700-year-old bon dance performed during obon week in August. All ferries depart from Sanyo Kisen Ferr y Terminal or Shiraishi Ferry Terminal in Kasaoka City, Okayama. The Sanyo Kisen Regular Ferry is a 34-minute ride (¥660 one way for adults and departs four times a day). Passengers can also bring bicycles, scooters and pets for a small additional fee. Shiraishi Ferry Terminal offers car transportation to Shiraishi, but note the island only has one fivekilometer road. Moooo! Bar Shiraishi Island, Kasaoka-shi, Okayama-ken 714-0036 www.moooobar.com

months along with marmalade and juice, they also craft a refreshing and cleansing spray from the yuzu seeds and rubbing alcohol. Koroku and Nakama Farms, located in Izumi and Nara respectively, specialize in traditional heirloom vegetables. Two varieties of renkon (lotus root) and a wonderful selection of cultivated sansai (mountain vegetables) are offered. A long purple-and-white kabu (turnip) makes a festive addition to the stand as well as the table. Sensuji, a hardier looking version of mizuna that resembles kale in taste and texture, and yamatomanna, an older and mixed version of nanohana (rape) can be found in spring, while summer brings a bounty of eggplant. Recipes are also available upon request. Narakiyorisa Farms from Minami Awajishi do a brisk enough trade that three staff members working the table barely have time to catch their breath. They supplement their weekly stock of fresh vegetables with homemade mochi in season and a dried soup mix. Made with onions and herbs grown on their farm, it promises a warm bowl of goodness any time of the year. Yamato-Shokuhin offers sakezuke, a Nara specialty and a unique regional taste. Pieces of eggplant, cucumber, ginger or daikon are plunged into a bed of sake lees (the dregs of the sake-making process) for a year or more. As the vegetables ferment, they take on a strong flavor that makes them a perfect companion for a steaming bowl of rice. The fun of food exploration at this market simply never ends. Osaka Odona Marche Nearest Station: Yodoyabashi Open: 2 to 7 p.m. Every Wednesday

SUMMER 2016

By Bryan Harrell

A Tiny Brewery Hidden in Shinjuku Y.Y.G. Brewery and Beer Kitchen, Tokyo 新宿の小さなブリュワリー Y.Y.Gブリュワリー・アンド・キッチン東京

ucked i n a t i ny cor ner of Shinjuku, about a sevenminute walk from the South Exit of JR Shinjuku Station (although technically still in Shibuya-ku), is the welcoming little Y.Y.G. Brewer y and Beer K itchen. This small brewery makes beer in small batches, and there are fresh new beers brewed on a regular basis. O n a r e c ent v i s it I h ad t h r e e of t hei r offerings, and all of them proved to be smooth and easy drinking brews running between 4 to 5.5 percent alcohol. No strong flavors or excessive hop levels here. The Shinjuku IPA was a hazy gold with minimal head, but enough hops to keep t h is hop -lover interested. At 5.5 percent alcohol, it is one of their strongest, but one would have to be a serious drinker to get a real buzz going on here.

新

Nex t up, t he Br it i s h Brow n Ale (4.5 percent) could better b e de s c r i b e d a s a m i ld i f the alcohol was a point lower. A lovely deep opaque brown color, it had a roasty malt aroma with the flavors becoming more apparent (and favorable) as it warms. Finally, the Yoyogi Amber Ale, also with minimal head, had only 4.1 percent alcohol and displayed minimal aroma, but had a good, hearty ale flavor that stays with you till the end of the glass. A l l t h r e e b e er s w er e s er v e d i n 320 ml. portions for ¥ 800, making them quite reasonable in a huge town such as Shinjuku. I had my initial beer downstairs at the bar on the first floor, then drank the other two in the restaurant upstairs on the seventh floor. In the restaurant, I enjoyed a very competently assembled Charcuterie Plate (¥1,500) and the delightful Parmesan Crisps (¥700), very thin shavings of the famous Italian cheese, then fried to a tasty crisp in a skillet. The only thing I found odd was the fact Asahi Super Dry is one of the guest beers (and the cheapest at ¥650) joining two other Japanese craft beers, which makes it apparent they are intent on satisfying any beer lover. In any case, their beers were completely satisfying and had true character, making for a memorable stop at Y.Y.G. Brewery.

アルコール度数はたった宿駅から南へ焼く7分（住所は渋谷ではあるが）、木アンバーも泡立ちは少なめ、路地裏にあるのがY.Y.G ブリュワリー・アンド・キッ

チンだ。少量ずつ作られるのでつねに新鮮なビールが楽しめる。

4.1％、香りもミニマルだが豊かな風味は飲み終わるまでつづく。この3種類はすべて320mlで800円という、新宿のような

先日訪れたさいには、3種類のビールを試し、どれもア

都会には似つかない手頃な値段だ。最初のビールは一

ルコール度数は4∼5.5％、スムーズで飲みやすいものば

階のバーでいただき、つぎの2杯は7階にあるレストランで

かりだった。風味も控えめで、ホップもそれほど主張しな

楽しんだ。レストランでは美しく盛りつけられたシャルキュト

い。新宿IPAは霞みがかった金色で、泡立ちも少なめだ

リー・プレートと、パルメザン・クリスプ（700円）という、あ

が、ホップ好きならじゅうぶんに楽しめる。アルコール度

の有名なイタリアンチーズを薄く削ってスキレットで揚げ

数は5.5％、ここのビールのなかでもっとも強いビールで

た料理をいただいた。

はあるが、酔っぱらいたいなら本気で飲まなければならない場所だ。

ひとつ気になったとすれば、ゲストビールとしてあったのが、日本のクラフトビール2種類とアサヒスーパードライ

つぎに飲んだのはブリティッシュブラウンエール（4.5％）すべての顧客を満足させるためだと考え、だったことだが、アルコール度数がもう1％少なければマイルドなビール

ひじょうにおいしく個性的で、ぜひ一度訪れていただきた

たモルトの香りとともに、暖められると風味が増す。代々

いブリュワリーである。

Y.Y.G. Brewery and Beer Kitchen, Tokyo

ワイワイジーブルワリー・アンド・ビアキッチン

Yoyogi 2-18-3, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

東京都渋谷区代々木2-18-3 オーチュー第一ビル Phone: (03) 6276-1221［1F Bar ］; (03) 6276-5550［7F Dining ］

Hours: Open 5 to 11 p.m. weekdays; noon to 11 p.m. weekends and holidays

T R AV E L E R

れば当然の選択なのだろう。いずれにしてもどのビールも

だといえるだろう。にごりのある深い茶色で、ローストされ

Cycling Japan:

A JOURNEY TO EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL LIFE サイクリング̶それは

By Takashi Niwa Translated by Sakae Sugahara

土地の暮らしを感じる旅

Akihabara

SHINJUKU-KU

ROUTE

CHIYODA-KU Yotsuya

Imperial Palace

Nagatacho

TOKYO

Tokyo

MIDNIGHT RAMBLING

START! GOAL!

夏は東京の深夜が楽しい

MINATO-KU Roppongi

CHUO-KU

Guided night tours using Docomo share bikes will be held daily for one full week in late August. For more information, please contact Niwa Cycling Tours (nct@ncycling.com) このドコモシェアバイクを使ったガイドツアーを、8月下旬の 1週間、毎晩開催予定。問い合わせ先／にわサイクリングツアーズ nct@ncycling.com

These Docomo power-assisted share bikes are easier to find of late and can be rented from and returned to cycle ports in Chiyoda, Chuo, Minato and Koto wards. One-day rentals are about ¥1,500. http://docomo-cycle.jp/tokyo-project/

Office buildings light up the city at 11 p.m. With the midnight oil burning, we are happy to be cycling. 午後11時のオフィス街。残業の明かりが灯るなかのサイクリングは、思わず笑顔！

ところで近頃の都心で、このような自転車をよく見かけないだろうか？ドコモシェアバイクといって、今、東京の千代田区、中央区、港区、江東区の4区内のサイクルポートで、この自転車を借りたり、返したりができるシステムだ。しかもこれ、電動アシストタイプだ。料金は1日利用1,500円など。

http://docomo-cycle.jp/tokyo-project/

he summer heat in Tokyo can be unbearable, even for those of us who grew up here. With the stifling humidity trapped between cement buildings, the effective temperature gets close to 40 degrees Celsius. Cycling during the day is not just arduous, it can be even dangerous. So, how about cycling at night? I have been hosting night-to-dawn Tokyo City rides for almost 15 years, and they are a blast. First of all, daytime heat subsides and traffic gets much lighter as you go deeper into the night — well, except for Roppongi, where bright streets are full of “random walkers” at these late hours. Here the eclectic sounds of

foreign languages fi ll your ears, and you’re surprised when you hear some Japanese. A 10-minute or so ride will bring pitch black darkness in Aoyama Cemetery. Here, I have my guest riders go solo at half-minute intervals, paying respect to a great summer tradition of Japan – kimodameshi, or a courage test. Pedal on and take a deep breather lying on your back on the grass of the Jingu Gaien park; you might even see a shooting star as I did. Enjoy Tokyo by night and then, as the new day dawns, roll up to Tsukiji Market and finish off the tour hopping from one sushi bar to the next.

東

京在住、あるいは滞在中の方にとって、夏の暑さ

る。聞こえてくる言語は、日本語であることは少ない。

は酷だ。体感気温は40℃近くとなる日中のサイク

そこから10分も自転車で行くと、真っ暗闇と青山墓地と

リングは、「辛い」を通り過ぎて「危険」でもある。ならば、

なる。ここはあえて30秒間隔で、ひとりずつ走る。日本

夜、夜中に走ってみてはどうか？

の夏の風物詩「肝試し」である。そのまま外苑に向かい、

私は夏限定で、夜から明け方にかけての東京ツアー

広い公園で大の字になって休憩していると、流れ星を見

を、15年近く開催している。これがおもしろいのだ。昼

たこともある。そんなふうに、昼間とは違う変化を楽しみ

間の暑さは落ち着くし、夜中であれば交通量も格段に少

ながら、夜が明ける頃に築地へ。寿司バーに飛び込ん

ない。午前2時に六本木を通過。この時間でもまだ、街

でツアーを締めくくる。

は煌めき、道路には〝まっすぐ歩けない “人であふれてい Takashi Niwa actively organizes guided tours around the world, from the back alleys of Tokyo to remote villages in Tibet. He has authored many books including “Otona no Tame no Jitensha Nyūmon” (Nihon Keizai Shinbun Shuppansha). His company, Niwa Cycling Tours (www.ncycling.com) organizes tours in Japan and around the world. ：にわサイクリングツアーズ（www.ncycling.com）を主宰し、東京の路地裏丹羽隆志（にわたかし）からチベットまで、地球上のどこかをガイド。『大人のための自転車入門』(日本経済新聞出版社刊)など著書多数。 SUMMER 2016

Diving Kanto's Coast Between the Depths and the Shallows:

大都会近郊にある、魅力あふれるダイビングスポット By Bonnie Waycott

T R AV E L E R

Divers in Tokyo will undoubtedly be thrilled to discover a colorful underwater world lies just beneath their doorstep. Bonnie Waycott travels to nearby Atami and Miyagawa Bay and finds you don't have to go far from the capital to enjoy some great diving. 大都会に住むのダイバーたちは、自分たちの暮らす街のすぐ近くにこんなにもカラフルな水中世界があることに驚くだろう。熱海や宮川湾を訪れたボニー・ワイコットは、エキサイティングなダイビングのために都心から離れたところへ行く必要はないという結論にたどり着いた。

SUMMER 2016

hen it comes to scuba diving in Japan, Okinawa and Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s southern prefectures undoubtedly spring to mind. Their crystal clear warm waters and exquisite beaches are deservingly summer hot spots. But areas near Tokyo can be just as beautiful for underwater exploration. In fact, some of the best diving can be found within easy reach, just south of the capital in Shizuoka and Kanagawa prefectures. With a mix of tropical and coldwater fish, north- and south-flowing currents, rocky shores, well-preserved coral and shipwreck exploration, there's an exciting range of opportunities for divers of all levels.

Amazing Atami Built on a volcanic caldera, Atami, which literally means "hot sea," has been famous for its hot springs since the 8th Century. In 1950, the city was declared an International Tourism and Culture City by the Japanese government, and when it became a stop on the Tokaido Shinkansen Line, its popularity soared. Today it draws thousands of holidaymakers, especially in summer. Most of Atami's dive sites are on the west end of a bay, about five-to-10 minutes by boat from the mainland. Famous for rocky outcrops and a large shipwreck suitable for advanced divers, Atami's dive sites are calm and accessible, offering an array of marine life from soft coral

T R AV E L E R

and sponges to macro life and schools of fish. Moray eels lurk in dark corners, while more observant divers may spot colorful nudibranch or a well-camouflaged stonefish.

Lust for Rust One of Atami's most frequented dive sites is the Chinsen, a ship that lies in two sections at around 25 to 30 meters. Due to its depth, and a mild current that can sometimes occur at the surface, it's only accessible to divers with an advanced certification. The dive begins off a boat and down a long rope with nothing to see until the wreck comes into view around 21 meters. The top of the structure is a wondrous dive in its own right. Schools of anthias, cardinals and chromis move about, while stonefish and moray eels rest in the darker corners. Orange anthias and patches of small anemones can be seen toward the sides of the wreck, impressive when viewed from above, but mesmerizing when right in front of your eyes. Deeper down at around 28 meters, dense growths of soft coral seem to form artistic mazes over the wreck, creating the perfect sanctuary for fish at the first sign of danger. Meanwhile, fan-like species drape from opportune edges, spreading wide into the water. Damselfish and sea goldies patrol the area, and schools of fish swarm down into the deep.

Diving Kanto's Coast

日

本でスキューバダイビングといえば、沖縄や

からボートで5∼10 分の場所にある。上級ダイバーに適し

日本の南方に位置する県が頭に浮かぶの

た岩の露頭（※）や大型の沈船で有名だが、海は穏やか

ではないだろうか。このエリアの透き通った

でアクセスもしやすく、軟体サンゴ、海綿、マクロライフや

暖かい海と美しいビーチは、当然夏のホット

魚の大群まで、さまざまな海の生物を楽しむことができる。

スポットである。しかしながら、東京近辺も、水中探索には

暗い隅にはウツボが潜み、より注意深く見れば、カラフル

おなじくらい美しいといえる。

なウミウシやよくカモフラージュしたオニダルマオコゼを発

じっさい、都心から目と鼻の先、神奈川と静岡の県庁

見できるかもしれない。

所在地のすぐ南でも、最高のダイビングが楽しめる。熱帯魚および冷水魚、南北からの海流、岩場、しっかり保存さ

錆びを求めて

れたサンゴ、さらには沈船探検まで、バラエティ豊かな海

熱海のもっとも人気のあるダイビングスポットのひとつは

中はすべてのレベルのダイバーたちを満足させてくれるだ

「沈船」、それぞれ25∼30ｍからなる2つのセクションに難

ろう。

破して海底に沈んでいる船のスポットだ。その水深と船が

熱海のすばらしさ

イバーのみアクセス可能となっている。

海面に起こす緩やかな潮流のため、上級認定を受けたダ

火山のカルデラ上にあり、文字通り「熱い海」を意味

ボートからダイブをはじめ、なにも見えないなか、長いロー

する熱海は、8 世紀以来、その温泉で名をはせてきた。

プを伝っていき、21ｍほど潜ったところでようやく沈船が

1950 年、市は政府から国際観光文化都市としての宣言

視界に入る。船の最上部自体がすでに不思議なダイビン

を受け、さらに東海道新幹線の停車駅のひとつともなり、

グ体験となる。ハナダイ、カーディナルフィッシュ、クロミス

その人気は急上昇。とりわけ夏には、何千もの観光客

の群れが動きまわり、一方でオニダルマオコゼやウツボが

が熱海を訪れる。

暗がりで身を潜めている。

熱海のダイビングスポットのほとんどは、湾の西端、陸

沈船の側面にはオレンジのハナダイやクマノミの小さな SUMMER 2016

Miyagawa Bay

The dive starts with the hull and front area and is easy to navigate â&#x20AC;&#x201D; follow the sides until you reach the back of the section, then swim past the rest of the structure which eventually takes you back to the starting point. Divers with good air consumption can explore both sections of the wreck in one dive.

The Beauty of Bitagane Next to the Chinsen is Bitagane. Here, fields of sponges, soft corals and a scattering of anemones are a haven for species such as yellowstripe butterfish and cherry anthias. This site is packed with diverse marine life and has an abundance of coral. Huge rocky structures sprout from the deeper areas, full of soft corals and multitudes of fish, especially various species of sea goldies, the odd seven-band grouper and a medium-sized flatfish or two resting quietly among the colorful scene. The shallower areas are well-stocked with smaller critters such as the nudibranch in bright red and yellow. Black scrapers hover in the blue, while growth is impressive and healthy as a variety of corals and sponges carpet the tops and sides of the rocks like a vast flowerbed. Finning over the rocky structures, sea urchins and small shellfish seem to be everywhere, and a couple of stonefish appeared to give me a sideways glance as I passed slowly by. Swimming down to the sloping rocky walls, at depth there are more sponges, gorgonians and schools fish, while the odd crinoids bring a smile.

T R AV E L E R

Miura Peninsula in southeastern Kanagawa protrudes into the sea between Tokyo Bay and Sagami Bay. The area is famous for a western-style lighthouse that watches over ships as they arrive and depart, while the bustling Misaki Harbor, famous for tuna fishing, is a great place to eat fish fresh off the boats. The vast waters off Miyagawa Bay are home to some fascinating biodiversity with clusters of rocky structures, outcrops and boulders. Just 75 minutes from Tokyo's Shinagawa Station, it is home to a series of rock formations, soft coral and some impressive macrolife.

Mythical Macros Miyagawa Bay's underwater pinnacles are full of action and color, with visibility around 10 to 15 meters and some lavish marine life, although pelagics are few. As the descent begins, the water features some rock formations, pinnacles and ridges crested by soft corals. One of the attractions is a distinctive rocky structure with overhangs. Resident eels rest in the darker areas, sometimes with cleaner shrimp companions, while nudibranchs can be found at all depths, and various anemones are on display too. At first glance, some areas appear to be almost devoid of life, but here photographers will want a macro lens and a light handy, as this area is home to sponges that rise here and there, rocks adorned with frills of soft coral and crinoids that make full use of the nutrient rich waters flowing past. Fish, such as the half-lined cardinal fish are photogenic, but swim closer to the rocks and deeper toward the sandy bottom and more discoveries await. Small crabs roam around here and there, and nudibranchs live on the surface of the rocks in partnership with colorful anemones. After exploring the rocks for a while, I found a resident eel

that looked up and hid at the very back of its den as I swam past. The maximum depths at Miyagawa Bay are around 20 meters, and the rocky walls fall down onto a sandy seafloor. Other areas further along are also home to impressive coral growth including gorgonians, whip coral and fans as well as more abundant marine life and a swim-through tunnel covered with substantial growth. Moray eels are seen in the deeper areas as well, and can be quite tolerant of divers. Black-sided pipefish hover in the tiny rocky cracks, shrimp team up with sea urchins and keep an eye on divers swimming by, and hunting lionfish make regular appearances. However, the best surprises are kept for the shallower areas at around 10 to 20 meters as these are jam-packed full of life. Macrolife fans will be drawn in by seahorses, nudibranchs and frogfish. Red soft coral makes for seductive color patches that lure sea goldies and other schools of fish, but the star of the show is undoubtedly the tiny harlequin shrimp; its white and blue colors lighting up against divers' torch lights under the protection of a small cave-like opening. Sometimes there are fairly strong currents in Miyagawa Bay, but this brings with it rich nutrients from the deep sea floor and gives the area a good diversity and quantity of marine life. The rocky structures are habitats for damselfish, parrot fish, yellow chromis and banded coral shrimps that light the wall with their vivid colors. A few starfish and sea slugs are also present. Looking up at the impressive rocky structures rising into the blue is a nice final touch during the ascent back to the surface. Whether you're a keen photographer, a shipwreck fan or just want to relax and observe the marine life, there's something for everyone at Atami and Miyagawa Bay. With leisurely day-trip dives and plenty of photo opportunities, these places won't disappoint. â&#x153;¤

Diving Kanto's Coast

群れを見ることができる。上から見るのも印象的だが、目

り多くの海綿や八放サンゴ、魚の群れがおり、奇妙なウミ

裏に隠れながら私が通り過ぎるのを見上げているのを見

の前で見れば船はより魅惑的だ。さらに深く水深 28ｍほ

ユリにも思わず笑みがこぼれる。

つけた。宮川湾の最大水深は20ｍほどで、岩の壁が砂

どまで潜ると、ぎっしり繁殖した軟体サンゴが難破船を覆う

の海底に向かって降りています。

ように芸術的な迷路を形成し、危険を察知した魚たちが

宮川湾

逃げ込むのにうってつけの聖域となっている。

神奈川県の南東に位置する三浦半島は東京湾と相模湾

ゴ、扇状のサンゴといった、すばらしいサンゴが育つ場所となっているうえに、豊かな海洋生物や、たっぷり成長し

さらにそこからつづくエリアは、八放サンゴ、ムチ状サン

いっぽうで、扇状サンゴも水中に向かってその枝を優美

のあいだに突き出ている。このエリアは船の発着を見守

に伸ばしている。スズメダイやキンギョハナダイが一帯をパ

る洋式の灯台で有名だ。マグロ漁で有名な活気のある三

たサンゴに覆われたトンネルを泳ぎ抜けることもできる。ウ

トロールし、魚の群れがさらに深くへと泳ぐ。

崎港は、漁船から降ろされたばかりの新鮮な魚を食べるに

ツボは水深のある場所にも生息しており、ダイバーを気に

ダイビングは船体と前部分からはじまり、簡単に進める。

は絶好の場所だ。

する様子もない。黒い側面をもつヨウジウオが小さな岩の

自分のいるセクションの背面に到達するまで側面を辿り、

宮川湾沖の広大な海は、多くの岩場や巨岩の露頭な

裂け目で漂い、エビはウニとチームを組んで、ダイバーが

船の残りの部分を過ぎて泳ぎきれば、最終的にはスタート

どがあり、さまざまな魅惑的な生物を育む場所となってい

泳いでいくのに目を光らせ、獲物を狙うミノカサゴが定期

地点に戻ることができる。エアー消費量の少ないダイバー

る。品川駅からわずか75 分、多様な岩石の形や軟体サ

的に姿を現す。

であれば、一回のダイブで両方のセクションを見ることが

ンゴ、印象的なマクロライフを見ることができる。

しかしながら最高のサプライズは、海洋生物の豊富な

伝説のマクロ

ファンはタツノオトシゴやウミウシ、イザリウオに惹かれるは

できるはずだ。

ビタガ根の美しさ

10 ∼ 20ｍほどの浅い地域に残されている。マクロライフ

宮川湾の水中尖塔地形は、視界 10 ∼１ 5mにもおよ

ずだ。赤軟体サンゴは、キンギョハナダイやほかの魚の群

沈船の次はビタガ根だ。ここは、海綿動物、軟体サンゴ、

び、遠洋生物はほとんどいないにもかかわらず、豪華な海

れを惹きつける斑点模様を持つが、なんといってもショー

そしてそこらじゅうに広がったイソギンチャクが存在する広

洋生物にあふれ、さまざまな動きや色合いで満ちている。

の主役は、まちがいなくハーレクイーンシュリンプだ。洞窟

場で、タカベや桜鯛などの魚の天国となっている。ここは

深い所にいくにつれ、軟体サンゴによって飾られた特徴的

のような小さい開口部に守られながら、彼らの白と青の色

多様な海洋生物がひしめきあい、サンゴも豊富だ。巨大

な岩石・尖塔・峰地形が見えてくる。ここの魅力のひとつ

はダイバーの懐中電灯の光を反射する。

な岩が深い部分から張りだし、軟体サンゴをはじめ、多様

は、大きく張りだした岩石だ。ウナギがシラヒゲエビといっ

宮川湾では時折かなり強い潮の流れがあるが、これが

な魚たちでいっぱいだ。さまざまな種類のキンギョハナダイ

しょに暗がりで休息していたり、ウミウシはあらゆる深さに

深い海底部から豊かな栄養分を湾に運び、豊かな生物

も多く、奇妙なマハタなどがおり、中サイズのヒラメがカラ

いる。また、多様なイソギンチャクも観察できるだろう。

多様性を形成する。岩石地形は、スズメダイ、イシダイ、

フルな景色のなかで静かに休んでいるだろう。

生き物がほとんどいないかのようにみえる場所もあるが、

イエロークロミス、縞状オトヒメエビなど岩壁を鮮やかな色

浅いエリアは、鮮やかな赤や黄色のウミウシなど小さな

ここは海綿動物があちらこちらであがってくる。軟体サンゴ

合いで飾る生物たちの生息地だ。少数ではあるが、ヒトデ

生物の宝庫だ。ウマヅラハギが青い水中に漂っている

で飾られた岩や一帯を流れる栄養豊かな海水を活用する

やウミウシなどもいる。青色の中に昇っていく印象的な岩

いっぽうで、多様な海綿動物やサンゴが岩の上部や側面

ウミユリなどが繁殖しており、写真家であればマクロレンズ

石構造を見上げるのは、海面に上がるさいのすてきな最

をまるで大きな花壇のように彩っており、健康に育ってい

と軽いハンディカメラを構えたくなるだろう。ネンブツダイな

後の仕上げとなる。

るのがわかる。

どフォトジェニックな魚もいるいっぽうで、より深い場所で

熱心な写真家なのか、沈船ファンなのか、はたまた単

岩の構造物の上を泳げば、ウニや小さな貝がそこらじゅ

岩に近づけば、さらなる発見が待っている。小さなカニが

に海洋生物を観察してリラックスしたいだけなのかにかか

うに見え、さらに数匹のオニダルマオコゼが現れて私が

あちこち歩きまわっており、ウミウシは、岩の表面にカラフ

わらず、熱海と宮川湾には、かならずなにかしら楽しみがあ

ゆっくりと泳ぎ抜けるのを横目で眺めている。坂になった

ルなイソギンチャクと共存している。

る。のんびり日帰りダイビングが楽しめ、写真撮影のチャ

岩の斜面に沿って潜っていくと、深さのあるところには、よ

しばらく岩石地形を探検した後、私は、ウナギが住処の

ンスも多く、だれもが楽しめることを保証する。✤ SUMMER 2016

Diving Kanto's Coast

PRACTICALITIES そのほかの情報 GETTING THERE

交通：

To Atami, take the Tokaido Shinkansen Kodama from Tokyo's Shinagawa Station. The journey takes about 45 minutes and costs just over ¥3,500 for a single unreserved seat. The cheaper route is the JR Tokaido Line, which takes two hours, for about ¥1,900. To Miyagawa Bay, take the Keikyu Line from Shinagawa Station to Misakiguchi Station. It takes about 75 minutes and is a bit less than ¥1,000.

熱海までは東京の品川駅から東海道新幹線が出ている。約

間は約75分、1,000円以下で行ける。

移動：

Hiring a car is a good option to explore the area if you have a few days to spare; otherwise the dive shops offer pick-ups and dropoffs for day trippers.

レンタカーがお薦めだが、ダイビングショップでも送迎サービスがある。

WHEN TO GO

時期：

June to September are the warmest months when temperatures reach between 20°C and higher than 30°C in mid-summer. December, January and February have the lowest temperatures at around 6-9°C.

6月から9月がもっとも暖かく、気温は20℃から30℃だ。12月から 2月は寒く、6℃から9℃だ。

WATER TEMPERATURE

水温：

Varies between 18-27°C in July and August to around 23-26°C in September and 18-24°C in October. A 5-mm. wetsuit will suffice during the summer, but a dry suit works well from October and later.

7月、8月で18∼27 ° C、9月で23∼26 ° C、10月で18∼24 ℃。夏は 5mmフルスーツでだいじょうぶだが、10月以降はドライスーツが必要。

DIVING TOURS AND TIPS

ダイビングツアー：

Discovery Divers Tokyo (DDT) on Facebook; check out their Website at www.discoverydiverstokyo.com or contact Jim Goddard at discoverydiverstokyo@gmail.com for further information on summer trips to Atami. DTT offers recreational, leadership and technical courses, as well as monthly socials in Tokyo and fun dives in the Izu area in summer.

Discovery Divers Tokyo (DDT) www.discoverydiverstokyo.com Facebook：Discovery Divers Tokyo (DDT)で検索。もしくはジム・ゴダード宛てにメールを。（discoverydiverstokyo@gmail.com） DDTはレクリエーション、リーダーシップ、テクニカルコースのほ

Note they don’t speak much English and can only answer basic English e-mail inquiries. If you don't speak Japanese and want to dive off Hayama and Miyagawa Bay, feel free to e-mail bonniewaycott@gmail.com or visit my Facebook page, Rising Bubbles: (www.facebook.com/RisingBubblesNotesOfANewDiver).

T R AV E L E R

円。宮川湾へは品川から京急線で、三崎口駅へ行く。乗車時

GETTING AROUND

For trips to Miyagawa Bay, Hayama-based Nana Diving (Web: www.nana-dive.net/fundiving.html) is a great place to start. Depending on weather conditions, they offer dive trips to Zushi and Hayama as well as Miyagawa Bay.

45分、普通車で3,500円だ。JR東海道線では約2時間、1,900

か、東京では月いちの集会や夏には伊豆エリアのダイビングも行っている。

宮川湾：葉山にあるNana Diving(Web: www.nana-dive.net/

fundiving.html)がお薦め。天気によって、逗子や葉山、宮川湾へのツアーがある。

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT:

SHIZUOKA

Summer in Shimoda

Black ships, white beaches, green hills and the deep blue sea.

eadlights are turned off as knee-high Pacific Ocean waves roll in off the point. As the sun peaks out over the horizon, the dawn treaders paddle out. Today southern Izu is a well-known beach resort for Tokyoites and expats, and a popular surf destination, yet the sleepy port town also played an important part in the internationalization of Japan. With a colorful history, a green interior and rocky coastline surrounding some great beaches, there is much to explore in Shimoda. In 1854, Commodore Perry and the black ships of the American fleet sailed toward Japan, anchoring in Shimoda Port. Shimoda officially became Japan’s first open international port, which marked the end of Japan’s Closed Door Policy. To commemorate this historic event Shimoda holds the Black Ship Festival for three days in May. The celebration began in 1934 to promote the historic day and international friendship. Ceremonies, parades with Naval marching bands, fireworks, entertainment and historical plays that reenact the historic days are held throughout the town. During the Obon Week holidays — Aug. 15-16 — the old town area comes alive to celebrate the Shimoda Hachiman Shrine festival, which dates back more than 350 years. Men carry mikoshi (portable shrines) on their shoulders as the sounds of Japanese flutes, taiko (Japanese drumming) and shamisen fill the air. Other summer events include the Shirahama Fireworks Festival in Mid-July, the Japan International Billfish Tournament (July 23-26) in Shimoda Bay, the Marine Festa (July 25-26) in Sotogaoka and, on the first Saturday and Sunday in September, the Big Shower Marine Festival, which features beach yoga, a big swim and other fun marine activities. As ships from around the world pulled into Shimoda to trade, wait out bad weather or wait for favorable winds, different cultures left their mark on the town. Strolling around the old district, you’ll see classic gas lamps along

Perry Road, as well as traditional houses with checkered black-and-white plaster walls. In early August, these traditional houses and stone-built warehouses are lined by hundreds of candles. Each morning fresh fish are unloaded on the docks and restaurants prepare their catch of the day. While Shimoda is steeped in history, today most visitors are lured to the southern Izu shores by the beautiful beaches, nice waves and clear water. Away from the port there are nine white-sand beaches offering a variety of activities such as surfing, sea kayaking, scuba diving, fishing, walking the coastline parks or just relaxing on the beach and enjoying the view. If you need a break from all the sun and sand, the mountainous interior of Izu has plenty of hiking trails, waterfalls and hot springs to explore. Beer lovers should note Baird Beer recently opened their Baird Brewery Gardens Shuzenji, which makes a nice stop on the way down the peninsula. Their original Fishmarket Taproom still operates in Numazu as well, which makes for a nice day trip. Accommodation options around Shimoda include hotels and minshuku overlooking the popular Shirahama Beach to the north of the station and relaxed guesthouses and boutique hotels to the south. One popular place for surfers is Shimoda Yamatokan. This grand old hotel sits just above Tatado Beach and has direct beach access from the hotel, surfboard lockers and showers, and a small outdoor pool and kids area in summer. Some rooms have private outdoor baths, and couples can rent the private hot spring overlooking the beach. Aspiring surfers will want to drop into Real Surf for board rentals and lessons. WEB CONNECTION Shimoda Tourism: www.shimoda-city.info Shimoda Yamatokan: www.shimoda-yamatokan.co.jp Real Surf: www.realsurf.jp Baird Beer: www.bairdbeer.com

Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa

offers an Authentically Bali™ experience through the feature of its 382 guestrooms and suites; highlighting the admirable views of the ocean and gardens.

Nusa Dua Spa a spa pioneer on the island, retains the rich Balinese tradition through its marvelous designs and variety of treatments.

NUSA DUA BEACH HOTEL & SPA, BALI – INDONESIA Tel: +62 (361) 771 210 reservations@nusaduahotel.com www.nusaduahotel.com

SUMMER 2016

SUMMER SURFING GUIDE

Shizuoka Photo by Kuni Takanami

A warm climate and consistent surf in summer puts Shizuoka on Japan’s surf radar. Beginner-friendly beach breaks are abundant, while there are plenty of reefs and river mouths to keep more experienced surfers happy. Getting slotted inside the green room (surf speak for getting barrelled) is common during the peak swell season from June to September. Beautiful landscapes with ocha (green tea) plantations cover the coastline and there are numerous onsen with oceanfront views in which to relax after a day in the water.

SHIZUNAMI AREA

opular with beginners, Shizunami has a number of fun beach breaks within walking distance from the beachside campground. You will need a car to access Yoshida Kou up north and the southern breaks below Katahama. Most breaks prefer northwesterly winds and an easterly swell teamed with good sand banks.

SHIZUOKA Nakatashima Maisaka

Shizunami

242

150

Shizunami 8 7 6 9

1 2 4 5

Usami 1 2 3

Omaezaki

233 473

4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Point Name Yoshida Kou (Yoshida Port) Bros-mae Benjyo-mae (Toilet-mae) Megami-mae Teibou-yoko Katsumata Kawaguchi (Katsumata River Mouth) Kashima Katahama Sakai-kou (Sakai Port) Susuki

Offshore Winds Level B NW B NW B NW B NW B NW NW NW NW W W / NW

B I A B B B B

Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Bottom

Peak Season MAR – DEC MAR – DEC MAR – DEC MAR – DEC MAR – DEC

1 2 3 4 5

JAN – MAR

1 1 1 1

MAR – DEC ALL YEAR MAR – DEC JUN – NOV

2 2 2 2

3 3 3 3

4 4 4 4

5 5 5 5

Wetsuit

Facilities

(boots and gloves JAN and FEB)

DEC – APR: MAY – JUN OCT – NOV: JUL – SEP:

OMAEZAKI AREA

trong winds blow between October and April, making Omaezaki a popular windsurfing destination. The next few months give way to great surfing conditions at a variety of sand and reef breaks backed by scenic mountain views. Turtles breed on the shores and locals ask visitors to be wary of their eggs and always keep the beach clean. The local sashimi is incredible, and you won’t regret treating your friends with a bag of Omaezaki locally grown green tea as omiyage (souvenirs).

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

T R AV E L E R

Point Name Offshore Winds Level I A Melon N / NE B Main N / NE B Saka-shita N I A Odaka N I A Butagoya-mae NE B Pension-mae NE B Secret NE B Sharkret NE B Kawaguchi (River Mouth) NE B Shark NE I A Sakukawa (Saku River Mouth) N / NE

Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Bottom

Peak Season MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC

Omaezaki

241

11 150 10 9

357

7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Wetsuit

Facilities DEC – APR: MAY – JUN OCT – NOV: JUL – SEP:

(boots and gloves JAN and FEB)

SURF GUIDE

See our Surf Guide online at www.outdoorjapan.com/surf

Reef

Sand

5mm

ICON LEGEND

Rocks

River mouth

3mm

Semi-dry

Short john

Spring suit

Boardies

Bikinis

Boots

Gloves

Head cap

Toilet

Shower

Car park

B Beginner

I Intermediate

A Advanced

IWATA / NAKATASHIMA AREA

his long stretch of coastline is picturesque both in and out of the water, with good waves throughout the year except winter. A good mix of sand banks and river mouths, some you will have to explore on your own. Good eateries and onsen scatter the coast as well as a beachfront auto-campground, so take a couple days to enjoy this friendly area.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Point Name Dori Toyohama Nishihama Samejima Komaba Godo Godo Kawaguchi (Godo River Mouth) Nakatashima Ichijyo

Offshore Winds Level B N I A N I A N I A N / NW B N / NW I A N / NE

Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Bottom

Peak Season JUN – NOV JUN – NOV JUN – NOV JUN – NOV JUN – NOV JUN – NOV

I A

1 2 3 4 5

JUN – NOV

N / NE N / NE

I A

1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

JUN – NOV JUN – NOV

Hamamatsu 1

257 9

150

1 8 7 6

2 1

Wetsuit

Facilities

(boots and gloves JAN and FEB)

DEC – APR: MAY – JUN OCT – NOV: JUL – SEP:

MAISAKA / SHIOMI AREA

ood beach breaks with consistent swell; the main Maisaka breaks are strictly local breaks and much respect must be given when surfing here. Don’t bother trying to learn at these breaks; instead make your way down to Okurato to enjoy fun waves free from heavy locals. All of these breaks like north winds and a good sand bank to perform best.

332

2 3 4 5 6

Point Name Maisaka Toudai-mae (Maisaka Lighthouse) Maisaka Main Arai Okurato Toilet-mae Kenzagai

Offshore Winds Level

Wave Consistency

Bottom

Peak Season

I A

1 2 3 4 5

AUG – NOV

N N N N N

I A

1 1 1 1 1

AUG – NOV AUG – NOV AUG – NOV AUG – NOV AUG – NOV

I A B B B

2 2 2 2 2

3 3 3 3 3

4 4 4 4 4

5 5 5 5 5

Maisaka 1 6

301

Wetsuit

Facilities

(boots and gloves JAN and FEB)

DEC – APR: MAY – JUN OCT – NOV: JUL – SEP:

IZU AREA

he east side of the Izu Peninsula is home to white sandy beaches and clear warm water. The mountainous interior which overlooks the coastline is full of the area's other popular attraction, onsen (hot springs). A nice mix of reefs and sand breaks provide a variety of waves for every surfer. Izu is also one of the largest producers of wasabi in Japan; be sure to try it with the fresh, local seafood for a kick!

Atami 1

Ito 3

Shimoda

136

8 11 10 9

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Point Name Usami Imaihama Kawazu Prince-mae Jinja-mae Chuo (middle) Resteru-mae Tatadohama Iritahama Main Ohama Main Toji

Offshore Winds Level I W / NW I NW B W B W B W B W B W B N B NW B NW A W / NW

Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Bottom

Peak Season SEP – NOV OCT – FEB MAR – OCT MAR – SEP MAR – SEP MAR – SEP MAR – SEP ALL YEAR ALL YEAR AUG – MAR NOV – MAR

414 5

Wetsuit

Facilities DEC – APR:

(boots during the coldest months)

MAY – JUN OCT – NOV: JUL – SEP:

SUMMER 2016

T R AV E L E R

S U B T E R R A N E A N H O M E S I C K

B L U E S BY RIE MIYOSHI

地底人のホームシック・ブルース

PROFESSIONAL CAVER KATSUJI YOSHIDA’S PASSION FOR EXPLORING THE UNDE RWORLD MAKES HIM FEEL RIGHT AT HOME . RTED TERRITORY A H C N U O T N I P E DELVING DE プロフェッショナルな洞窟探検家として情熱を燃やす吉田勝次は、たとえ未踏の洞窟の奥深くへ進んでも心はわが家のように寛いでいる。

Photos by Katsuji Yoshida SUMMER 2016

“YOU DON' T NEED A W EATHERM

TO KNOW WHICH WAY

THE WIND BLOWS.” 知るのに予報士

きをことわざ ̶ 「風向

はいらない」

— Bob Dyl an, “Su bter ran ean Hom esic k Blu es”

ボブ・ディラン、『サブタレニアン・ホームシック・ブルース』より

magine what it would be like to step inside a diamond. Everything is so vast, and the ceiling, walls and floor are sparkling. It’s absolutely breathtaking. That’s what spelunking is like for Katsuji Yoshida. The 49-year-old Osaka native is one of Japan’s top cavers, having spent more than 20 years entrenched deep in caves peering into the unknown. Yoshida had always been exploring the outdoors, developing an early interest in caves and mountains back in elementary school. At age 23, he seriously pursued mountain trekking for a few years until he read an article on spelunking in a magazine. “Note that this was before the Internet era; I read this article, immediately called the phone number listed at the end of the piece and begged them to take me along on their next expedition,” he recalls. Mentored by the Hamamatsu Caving Club, Yoshida joined expeditions to Aichi, Gifu, Shiga and Mie prefectures on a weekly basis. In three months, he was spelunking on his own and launched Japan Exploration Team, a group for explorers to not only learn the ropes to caving but also carry out rescue missions and navigation tactics. “When you get lost or injured while hiking, helicopters and rescue teams can save you. But when you’re in a cave, you have to rely on your team. Learning how to discover

T R AV E L E R

caves is great, but rescue training is as essential. You have to do both well,” he states. Many of Yoshida’s expeditions take him to unusual and inaccessible locations, and the equipment he carries is mainly for emergency purposes. He always alerts people on his caving location, arranging “rescue times” in case he does not return by a certain hour. Spelunkers in Japan are rare, as caving demands timeconsuming research and rigorous physical training. It’s not a glamorous and immediately rewarding pastime, as days can be spent digging a wall and crawling in darkness just to find an opening. Japan is teeming with caves, but it often takes time to find a way in, which can require weekly visits to the same location. Most Japanese can’t take off from work for monthlong exploratory missions, yet Yoshida has made spelunking a full-time occupation, with regular paying gigs from magazines and TV programs supporting his passion for delving into dark places. “I did not plan for it to be this way — it all developed naturally,” he explains. “I never turned down any opportunity, so more came down the line.” Yoshida’s accident-free track record has built trust and credibility as a professional spelunker, which has led to new opportunities for discovery.

も

しダイヤモンドにちりばめられた部屋に入って

りません」と彼は語った。

みたらどんな気分になるでしょうか。壁も床も

彼の探検はいうまでもなく未踏の地であるから携行する

天井もまばゆいばかりに輝いていたら、きっと

道具も緊急事態を想定したイクイップメントが中心だ。さら

その美しさに思わずため息をついてしまうかも

に彼は「レスキュータイム」を設定し、一定の時間内に彼

しれない。吉田勝次にとって洞窟の探検はそんなときめき

が戻らないときは不測の事態が起きたという知らせになっ

に満ちている。

ているという。

吉田は大阪生まれの49 歳。洞窟探検では20 年のキャリアがあり、日本ではその道の第一人者として知られてい

さて、洞窟探検家は日本では少数だ。探検には時間が

る。子供の頃から彼はすでにアウトドアで過ごすのが好き

かかるし、フィジカルなトレーニングも必要だからだ。さらに

で、23 歳まではトレッキングに情熱を傾注していた。そして

余暇を利用して楽しむような趣味としての魅力も薄い。何

ある日、雑誌に掲載されていた洞窟探検の記事と出会う

日もかけて壁に穴を掘り、暗闇の中を這って新しい洞窟

ことになる。「インターネットのない時代でしたから、その記

の入り口を探さなければならないからだ。日本には洞窟は

事の最後に載っていた連絡先に直接電話して次の探検

無数にあるが、それを発見するための時間が足りず、探

に連れてってくれるようにお願いしました」

検の愛好者も週末を利用しておなじみの洞窟を探るだけ

その浜松ケービングクラブから教えを受けながら吉田は

というのが現状だという。

愛知、岐阜、滋賀そして三重へと週一のペースで探検に

吉田がプロの探検家として登場するまでは日本で月単

出かけるようになった。やがて3ヶ月もすると彼はひとりで

位のような長期のミッションをおこなうことはだれにもできな

探検に出かけるようになり、ジャパン・エキスプローレーショ

かった。雑誌の原稿料やTV 番組が彼の探検への情熱を

ン・チームを組織する。この団体は洞窟への探検の方法

サポートした。「計画してプロになったわけではないけれど、

を教えるだけでなく、レスキューやナビゲーションの訓練も

自然の流れでこうなりました。どんなチャンスも受け入れて

目的としていた。「ハイキングで道に迷ったり怪我をしても

きた結果かもしれません」吉田の無事故の記録はプロの

ヘリコプターやレスキュー隊が助けにきてくれますが、洞窟

洞窟探検家としての信頼と信用の実績となり新しい探検

の中では仲間だけが頼りになります。だから洞窟探検を練

への足がかりとなっている。

習するときは、レスキューの方法も同時に学ばなければな SUMMER 2016

W I N D

W AT E R

Yoshida pulls out a laser tracker from his backpack, an essential tool as he purposely seeks caves that haven’t been explored before and creates trail maps along the way. Although there’s no guarantee of a pot of gold at the end — or in Yoshida’s case, an underground clearance — most of the time he can guess what kind of cave is inside simply by looking at the opening and studying cave formations. “Wind and water are two elements I rely on for navigation. Wind being sucked into the cave is a result of the difference in temperature outside and inside the cave. If there’s water, I follow the flow. The good thing is even though cave openings are narrow, it usually leads to a bigger space,” he says and then demonstrates how he contorts his way through crevices using only his fingers and feet to maneuver. While most of us might shudder at the thought of claustrophobia-inducing dirt passages, Yoshida is intrigued by the process — not knowing what is inside before suddenly entering a big underground world. Once inside, Yoshida is prepared to face all sorts of terrain. “For spelunking, you need to be active in a lot of outdoor activities or you won’t make it. We use ropes and prop ourselves against narrow walls and climb up and camp; this is called “chimneying.” Where there’s water, we either use rafts or scuba dive,” he explains. It is easy to get caught up in enormous caverns and underground lakes, so Yoshida makes sure to keep track of what’s behind him to remember what the return route should look like. In fact, that’s all he thinks about when he’s underwater. Spelunkers have to be mentally strong as well. Humans are wired to wake up or sleep based on sunlight, but usually the only light inside caves comes from cavers’ headlamps. Without natural light, it is difficult to rise, so Yoshida’s team takes turns waking each other every morning. “If we don’t, we’ll keep sleeping forever,” he jokes. Because of the extreme situations, Yoshida says he breaks out in fevers almost once per expedition. During those times, there’s nothing else to do but sleep it off. “But by three days, I’m usually genki again,” he says optimistically. He rarely brings water, drinking straight from underground rivers or gathering rainwater if he’s in the jungle. Lots of bugs are accidentally consumed. However, Yoshida makes sure he eats warm meals inside the cave. “Aside from amazing cavern scenery, there’s really nothing else to look forward to while caving. You’re in narrow spaces, it’s freezing, and your body hurts. But eating hot food refreshes you mentally,” he says.

T R AV E L E R

風と水

吉田はバックパックからレーザートラッカーを取り出した。それは初めての洞窟でもたどった経路を記録することができるツールだ。だが洞窟の先になにがあるかわからない。吉田の場合は、洞窟の入口やその成立ちで内部の様子を少しは知ることができるという。「風と水はナビゲーションの要素として信頼できるといえます。洞窟に入り込む風は気温差を生じさせます。洞窟の中と外では温度が変わるんです。もし水が流れていればその流れを私は追跡します。洞窟の入り口が狭くてもたいていその先は広いことが多いのです」と語って、彼はクレバスを指先と脚を曲げながら通り抜ける方法をやってみせてくれた。私たちのほとんどは、暗闇につづく洞窟には閉所恐怖症的な恐ろしさを感じるだろう。だが吉田にとっては、未知の大きな地下世界へとつづいていると思うと興奮さえ感じるのだ。洞窟に入ると吉田はどんな地形にでも対応できるように準備を備えるという。「洞窟探検のために、野外活動で身体を鍛える必要があります。ロープを使って狭い壁を登ったりキャンプをしたりします。それをチムニーイングと私たちは呼んでいます。水があれば浮き具やスキューバダイブをするときもあります」と彼は説明した。無数の洞窟や地下の湖に出くわしてしまうこともよくあるから、吉田は常に通ってきた経路を覚えて戻り方を記憶している。事実、水中に潜っているときでさえ考えていることは戻るときのルートだという。洞窟探検は精神的な強さが求められる。たとえば人間は太陽の光によって目を覚ます。しかし洞窟の中で光といえるものはヘッドランプだけなのだ。自然光のない世界で生活をするのは難しい。だからチームでは交代で朝起きる順番を決めている。「そうしないと永遠に眠りつづけますからね」と吉田は冗談を言った。極度な環境に過ごすために、洞窟探検をするたびに高熱を出してしまうと吉田は言う。それに対処するには睡眠しかないのだそうだ。「 3日もすれば元気になりますよ」と彼は楽観的に答えた。彼はあまり水を携行しない、地下の川やジャングルにいれば雨水を集めてそのまま飲料とする。虫がその中に混じることもしばしばだが気にしない。地下ではミミズを食べることもあるという。「洞窟の景観は驚くほどすばらしいですが、それ以外に楽しみはありません。狭いスペースで気温は凍えそうに寒いし、身体は痛いところだらけ。でも温かい食べ物は気持ちを楽にしてくれますよ」と彼は言う。✤

W H AT

L I E S

Caves operate on a completely different eco-system from the outside world. Temperatures remain consistent yearround. Tohoku’s caves are around five degrees Celsius, while Okinawa’s caves hover around 20-21 degrees. Yoshida’s discoveries range from the mysterious, such as unusual and translucent fish, insects and tadpoles that lack eyes to adapt to their surroundings, to the alarming, a body belonging to an unfortunate spelunker who had gone missing the year before. Yoshida and his team had to haul out the body and report to the local Gifu police. “Finding a body was the most surprising thing we’ve seen but, rather than being shocked, I respect these people who came before me, because they came first and so far,” Yoshida says. He’s found bodies hundreds of years old and cultural remains of old villages, which adds to his anthropologic knowledge of the region. Along with the refrigerator-like temperature, caves lack decomposers usually found in other environments, so bodies and ruins remain preserved. Yoshida also makes sure to bring back all waste products, so the environment inside stays pristine and balanced. Today, Yoshida primarily explores limestone and volcanic caves and has been to 23 countries including Madagascar and Iran for caving. Currently, he has his eyes set on Laos, which apparently houses the world’s largest cave. So far, he’s explored about 2.5 kilometers of passages by following a subterranean river. Even though he is approaching his 50th birthday, his passion does not flicker. “I think I will cave forever. I’ll probably die in a cave and someone will find me there,” he says matter of factly. Yoshida sums up his caving experience in one word – michi, which means path. “Deep oceans, space and the underground, these are three areas left uncharted. I have no interest in caves people have already been to,” he says. “I like not knowing what’s ahead of me.” Yoshida continues to be a pioneer, paving a new michi in places no one has ever been before. ✤

B E N E AT H 何が地底に横たわっているか

洞窟には外界とはまったく違った生態系が存在している。気温は一年を通しておなじだ。東北の洞窟は5℃だが、沖縄の洞窟は20℃から21℃。吉田が洞窟で発見するものはミステリアス系からアラーム系までとその幅が広い。たとえば透き通った魚、暗闇で目を失った昆虫やオタマジャクシ、そして数年前に行方不明になっていたアマチュアの洞窟探検家の死体と出くわしたこともあった。吉田のチームはその死体を発見したとき、彼らで外に運び岐阜警察に知らせたという。「死体の発見はショックというよりも驚きのほうが大きいです。私より先にここへ到達していた人がいたという意味においてで尊敬の念を覚えます」。彼は数百年前の村の遺跡と死体を発見したこともあり、人類学の知識を増やした。洞窟はいわば冷蔵庫のような状態で死体の腐敗を防ぐような環境でもあるのだ。吉田は洞窟の環境に影響を与えないようにゴミは持ち帰るようにしている。今日まで吉田が踏破した洞窟探検は23カ国にもおよび、そのなかにはマダガスカルやイランも含まれている。最近では、彼はラオスに注目している。そこはおそらく世界でもっとも大きな洞窟が存在している可能性があるからだ。これまで彼は2.5kmまでは川に沿って踏破している。もうじき50 歳の誕生日がやってくる吉田だが、彼の情熱はいまだ冷めてはいない。「たぶんいつまでも洞窟探検はつづけるでしょう。そして洞窟の中で死んで、だれかが私を発見するかもしれませんね」と真顔で答えた。彼のこれまでの人生を総括すると、彼は “道” と答えた。「深海、宇宙、そして地下とまだ人類が踏破していない3つのエリアが存在しています。私は人がすでに到達している洞窟には興味がありません」と彼は言う。「その先になにがあるのかわからない。それが楽しいんですよ」。吉田の新しい「道」の追求はこれからもつづく。✤ SUMMER 2016

Art

Ogijima’s Soul / Jaume Plensa / Ogijima

in the Inland Sea

瀬戸内の島々を巡るアートフェスティバル

Long-time islander Amy Chavez shares some tips for exploring the 12 islands in the Seto Inland Sea that will host this summer’s Setouchi Triennale Art Festival.

今夏、瀬戸内海の12の島々で開催される瀬戸内トリエンナーレ・アートフェスティバル。日本在住でフェスティバルのホストを務めるアミー・シャベスがその楽しみ方をアドバイスします。

T R AV E L E R

his summer, from July 18 to Sept. 4, one of Japan’s most interesting art festivals is back. The Setouchi Triennale Art Festival features contemporary art against the backdrop of Japan's Seto Inland Sea. The festival, held every three years, has grown from humble beginnings on Naoshima Island when the Art House Project converted traditional Japanese houses into venues for modern art. You can still see these exhibits, such as James Turrell’s “Backside of the Moon,” during the art festival. Yet, what started as a quaint celebration of art back in the 1990s has grown into a fullblown world-class exhibition spread over 12 islands in the Seto Inland Sea in Kagawa and Okayama prefectures. The Setouchi International Art Festival, or more simply called the Triennale, is a great opportunity to appreciate art and also a unique way to experience Japan's traditional island culture. Each island has its own distinct feel, traditions and people. Ogijima, with a population of a little more than 200, has a small intimate atmosphere and is packed with exhibits. The island people used to raise cows, which they then sent to the mainland for use in the rice fields for plowing. When the farmers were finished with the plowing, they'd send the cows back to their island home. The much larger Teshima has a rural feel and is known for its tanada, terraced rice fields. If you're interested in Japanese folktales, be sure to visit Megijima, nicknamed "Oni Island," as it is believed to be the destination of the Peach Boy in the legend of "Momotaro-san." There is even a cave (with art in it, of course), ostensibly the lair of the slain dragon and his hoarded treasure. Island hopping from one art exhibit to the next may seem daunting so, before you set sail, here are some tips to make your trip a little easier.

Uno or Takamatsu? If you're coming to the festival from points north of Okayama, such as Osaka, Nagoya or Tokyo, you'll probably start your trip at Uno Port in Okayama Prefecture. Take the Sanyo Shinkansen to Okayama Station and change to the Uno Line to Uno Station. If you're coming from Hiroshima or points south, or if you're already in Shikoku, you may prefer to start your trip from Takamatsu Port in Kagawa Prefecture. Both ports offer information centers where you can get maps, ferry schedules and information about the festival.

Liminal Air-core- / Takamatsu

どちらの港から？このフェスティバルに大阪や東京方面から来られるとい

今

う方は岡山県の宇野港からアクセスすると便利でしょう。年の8月18日から9月４日まで、注目の瀬戸内ト

山陽新幹線の岡山駅から宇野線に乗り換え宇野駅で

リエンナーレ・アートフェスティバルが瀬戸内

下車します。

海に浮かぶ島々で開催されます。このフェス

広島方面から来られる方や、すでに四国に住んでいる

ティバルは3 年ごとに開かれていて、そのスタートは1990

という方は香川県の高松港をめざされると良いと思いま

年代にアートハウス・プロジェクトが直島で古民家を利用

す。どちらの港にもフェスティバルのインフォメーションセン

しておこなったモダンアート作品の展示会が始まりでし

ターがあり、地図やフェリーの時刻表が用意されています。

た。小さな規模からスタートしたこのフェスティバルが、いまでは世界規模に成長し、香川県と岡山県に属する瀬戸内の12もの島々が会場となっています。今回のフェスティバルではジェームス・チュレルの「月の裏側」などをは

Beyond the last stop / Uno Port

じめ、個性あふれるさまざまな作品が観賞できます。ザ・トリエンナーレとも呼ばれるこの瀬戸内インターナショナル・アートフェスティバルはすばらしいアートを鑑賞するだけでなく日本の小島の固有な伝統文化にも触れることができるという特徴を持っています。たとえば会場のひとつである男木島は人口が 200 人ほどの静かな島。ここではかつて稲作作業用の牛を育てては本州に送り、農作業の時期が過ぎるとまたそれを島に戻すという生業をおこなっていました。また男木島よりも大きい豊島には有名な棚田があります。民話に興味があれば女木島がいいでしょう。この島は有名な民話『桃太郎』がめざした鬼ヶ島だという伝説があります。ここには洞窟があり、竜が住んで財宝も隠されているという言い伝えもあり、そこもフェスティバルの会場となります。さて、作品会場が島ごとに分かれているからちょっと面倒じゃないかと案じている方がいるかもしれません、そんな方のためにいくつかアドバイスをさせていただきます。

JR Uno Minato Line Art Project / Esther Stocker / Uno Port SUMMER 2016

Art Festival Passport For ¥5,000, you can buy a "passport" that will gain you entry into most of the exhibits. The exception is some of the museums which require an extra entry fee. There is a mixture of indoor and outdoor exhibits and, if you are happy just seeing the outdoor exhibits (such as Yayoi Kusama’s pumpkins, Sou Fujimoto's Naoshima Pavillion, Keisuke Yamaguchi's Walking Ark, etc.), you don't actually need a passport. If you plan on visiting just a few of the indoor exhibits, you can pay individually, and most are just a few hundred yen each. Many of the indoor museums are not included in the passport so, if it's hot and you find an air conditioned museum more attractive, you might want to forego the passport and just pay for the museums on an individual basis. Some examples are the Lee Ulfan Museum (10 a.m. to 6 p.m., admission ¥1,030), Teshima Art Museum (10 a.m. to 5 p.m., admission ¥1,540) and Naoshima's Chichu Art Museum which features Claude Monet's waterlilies (10 a.m. to 6 p.m., admission ¥2,060). While all these require separate entry fees, you can get a slight discount with a passport.

Beyond the Borders - the Ocean / Lin Shuen Long / Takamatsu

Three-Day Triennale Ferry Pass The three-day ferry pass (¥2,500, children ¥1,200) will save you money only if you plan on visiting several islands over three or more days. However, it would be prudent to plan for just one island per day (or two smaller islands), as many islands are not interconnected, and different ferry companies go to different islands. So, if you're on Naoshima and want to go to Ogijima, there is no direct ferry between the two. Thus, you'll have to go from Naoshima back to the mainland (Takamatsu) and wait for the next ferry leaving for Ogijima. This can take up significant amounts of time and should be factored in when planning which islands to visit on your trip.

T R AV E L E R

アートフェスティバルのパスポート 5,000 円でパスポートを購入すれば、屋内外を問わずすべての会場で作品を観賞することができます。ただし美術館へは別途入場料がかかります。前述のとおり展示会場は屋内と屋外があります。もし屋外だけの作品を観賞するだけならばパスポートは必要なく、展示会場で個々に入場料を払うといいでしょう。その場合は数百円ですみます( 屋外の展示品は草間彌生のカボチャ、藤本壮介の直島パビリオン、山口啓介の歩く方舟などなど)。ほとんどの美術館はパスポートのみでは入場できません。もし暑い日に訪れてしまってエアコンで涼をとりたかったら、美術館の入場料を払って見てまわるという方法もいいでしょう。たとえば李禹煥美術館は（開館時間10:00am∼18:00pm / 入場料 ¥1,030 ）、豊島アートミュージアム（開館時間 10:00 am∼17:00 pm /入場料¥1,540）クロード・モネの睡蓮が展示されている直島地中美術館（開館時間10:00am ∼18:00pm/ 入場料 ¥2,060 ）となっていてパスポートがあれば若干の割引が受けられます。

Organ / Tomoko Taniguchi / Ogijima Community Area

3 日間トリエンナーレ・フェリーパス 3日間のトリエンナーレ・フェリーパスは大人 ¥2,500 、子供 ¥1,200で、3日間以上の滞在予定のある方には得でしょう。ただし訪れる島は一日にひとつの島、小島ならばふたつくらいに計画を立てたほうがいいでしょう。それぞれの島々に渡るフェリーの会社が異なっていて、連携がとれていないからです。つまり直島から男木島に行こうと思っても、直接島から島には渡れません。そういうときには高松港に戻り、男木島行きの船に乗り換える必要があります。これにはかなりの時間を費やしてしまうので、じゅうぶんな計画を立てておくのがお勧めです。

Wall Alley / Rikuji Makabe / Ogijima Community Area SUMMER 2016

Naoshima Pavilion / Sou Fujimoto / Naoshima Miyanoura

Why not stay a while? In addition to the high-end Benesse House accommodation, there is an array of traditional minshuku, ryokan and budget guesthouses available. If you decide to stay at a minshuku or ryokan on one of the islands, you'll have the opportunity to eat fresh local seafood and enjoy the exhibits in the evening, night-time and early morning without crowds. Since most ferries run between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m., you'll also have sunrise and sunset photo opportunities for outdoor exhibits.

島に滞在がお勧めですよ宿泊施設は最高級なベネッセハウスや、また手頃な民宿や旅館も島にはあります。民宿や旅館に泊まれば地元のおいしい魚が食べられるし、夜も会場で作品が観賞できます。もちろん早朝や夜は人も少なく落ち着いて観賞できるし、美しい夕焼けや朝焼けを写真に収めるチャンスもあります。フェリーの運航時間はだいたい朝 8 時から夜は6 時までです。

W O

Sea Gulls Parking Lot / Takahito Kimura / Megijima Community Area

Avoid Monday (if possible)

On Mondays, many museums and some exhibits are closed. If the Monday is a national holiday, the day off will be moved to the following Tuesday instead. If you can't make the summer session of the art festival, there is another session in autumn from Oct. 8 to Nov. 6 featuring different islands. For more information on the Setouchi Art Festival seasons and the festival in general, visit their website.

Particles in the Air / Noe Aoki / Teshima

T R AV E L E R

Getting Around the Islands It’s possible to walk to all the exhibits on smaller islands such as Ogijima and Megijima. Larger islands such as Naoshima offer bicycle rental, which is a fun way to get around faster and further. Other islands such as Teshima and Shodoshima are too big (or hilly) to get around easily on a bicycle, so taking the bus makes more sense. Renting a car is a good option as well, but best to reserve in advance. Keep in mind that buses will add extra cost. Buses on Teshima, for example, cost a flat fee of ¥200 for each ride, and you'll be getting on and off the bus as it circles the island to the different exhibits.

島内を巡る小さな男木島や女木島は歩いて作品を観賞できますが、直島などではレンタル自転車が便利です。大きな豊島や小豆島になると、坂道もあるために自転車よりもバスを利用するのが賢明です。レンタカーならば最高ですが、予約は忘れないようにしてください。またバスも無料ではなく、たとえば豊島では一回乗るだけで最低 200 円かかりますから、いろいろな会場を回ると乗り降りするたびに料金がかかることは忘れないようにしてください。

Walking Ark / Keisuke Yamaguchi / Ogijima Ogi Fishing Port Area

Access

できれば月曜日は避けよう月曜日はほとんどの美術館や展示会場が休みとなります。さらに祝日と月曜日が重なると、火曜日も休みとなるので注意しましょう。アートフェスティバルの夏会期に参加できなくても、秋会期があり10月８日から11月６日まで開催されます。

WEB CONNECTION

Web site: www.setouchi-artfest.jp/en/about/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ ArtSetouchiEN/

Pumpkin / Yayoi Kusama / Naoshima

TAKAMATSU - HONMURA (NAOSHIMA) - IEURA (TESHIMA) Approx. 35 min.

HONMURA (NAOSHIMA) - IEURA (TESHIMA) Approx. 20 min.

TAKAMATSU - KARATO (TESHIMA) Approx. 35 min.

UNO - IEURA (TESHIMA) - KARATO (TESHIMA) - TONOSHO (SHODOSHIMA) Approx. 90 min.

TAKAMATSU - MEGIJIMA - OGIJIMA Approx. 40 min.

TAKAMATSU - TONOSHO (SHODOSHIMA) Approx. 60 min.

TONOSHO (SHODOSHIMA) - MIYANOURA (NAOSHIMA) Approx. 45 min.

TAKAMATSU - UNO Approx. 65 min.

HODEN - INUJIMA Approx. 10 min.

TONOSHO (SHODOSHIMA) - INUJIMA Approx. 25 min.

SHINOKAYAMA - TONOSHO (SHODOSHIMA) Approx. 70 min. SUMMER 2016

SHAPING THE FUTURE IN BALI バリで未来を形作る By Rie Miyoshi

For some, surfing is a way of life; for the less committed, a weekend hobby or a fun activity on a beach holiday. For a few unlikely surfers from eastern Java, surfing may have saved their lives; at the very least it shaped their future. 一部の人々にとってサーフィンは生き方であり、そうでない人にとっては週末や休日の娯楽である。ジャワ東部出身のサーファーにとってサーフィンは生活の手段となり、また最低でもその将来を形作るものとなった。

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SUMMER 2016

t’s sunrise at Bali’s infamous Legian Beach. The shore is dotted with a few early birds walking the idyllic sands, and I’m lucky enough to have the waves all to myself. Closer to the palm trees and the main road, the locals set up shop for another day of entertaining tourists from the world over. Umbrellas are propped up, surf and stand-up paddle boards stand neatly in line, and beach mats and sarongs are spread out for display. The aroma of hot coffee and Indonesian fried breakfast snacks fills the air, along with the sales pitch for “Cheap surfing lessons!” Surf vendors are found at most popular beach destinations the world over. These ubiquitous purveyors of ocean fun persistently approach sunburned visitors when not being ignored or avoided. Watching their morning routine, I wondered about the untold stories they could tell about their lives. I’d find out sooner than later, as I meet Mohammat Aan on a Saturday morning while waxing my board. Aan’s day begins before dawn as he drives into Kuta with six or seven boards, mostly beginner-friendly foams and fun boards. From 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., he mans his rental board hut or is in the surf teaching the finer points of board riding to eager tourists.

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What separates Aan from other vendors is that he only uses boards his company, Sunrise Surfboards, produces. Noticing my curiosity, Aan invited me to check out his surfboard factory after his 12-hour shift. It’s past 10 p.m. and our car painfully inches its way south toward the airport through Legian’s legendary traffic and nightlife. The factory is located in the heart of Jalan Kediri, a crammed district hidden beneath the shadow of touristy Kuta and not particularly near the beach. This is not the part of Bali most tourists see. There’s a comfortable, homely vibe as I step into Sunrise. Beyond the warehouse’s humble exterior and concrete brick walls, the mood is relaxed and friendly as four Indonesian guys in their early to mid-20s shape boards late into the night. I’m handed a facial mask as a “gun” spray is painted. Two guys share a box of donuts as they ready a foam board for export. In the next room, Aan oversees the final touches being applied to a shortboard, as I wonder how he has the stamina to keep shaping after a full day at the beach. Looking at his deeply tanned face and sun-bleached hair, one might think he’s been surfing in Bali his entire life. But his heavy Javanese accent is a dead giveaway. “I grew up near the ocean –- but not surfing,” Aan explains.

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SHAPING THE FUTURE IN BALI 部の人々にとってサーフィンは生き方であり、そうでない人にとっては週末や休日の娯楽である。ジャワ東部出身のサーファーにとってサーフィンは生活の手段となり、

また最低でもその将来を形作るものとなった。バリの有名なレギャンビーチの夜明けのことだ。早朝の浜辺で美しいビーチを歩く人はまばらで、サーファーは私だけという幸運に恵まれた。ヤシの木々や大通りの近くでは、世界中から来る観光客をもてなすためにローカルたちが屋台を準備中だった。ビーチパラソルが設置され、サーフボードやスタンダップパドルボードがきちんと一列に並べられ、ビーチマットやサロンが広げられている。ホットコーヒーやインドネシアの朝食の香りがあたりに満ち、「サーフィンのレッスンはいかがですか！」という売り込みの声も聞こえてくる。サーフィンの業者は、人気のビーチであれば世界中で見られる光景だ。このどこにでもあるビーチでの娯楽を提供する者たちは、無視されたり拒否されたりしないかぎり、日焼けした観光客に熱心に売り込みつづける。彼らの朝の業務を見ながら、語られたことのない彼らの生活について聞けないものかと私は考えた。ボードにワックスを塗っていたある土曜日の朝、モハマット・アーンに出会ったときにそれは意外と早く実現した。アーンの一日は夜明け前、おもに初心者用のフォームボードやファンボードを6 、7 枚車でクタへ運ぶことからはじまる。午前6時から午後6時までは、レンタルボードの小屋にいたり、客にサーフィンを教えたりして過ごす。アーンがほかの業者と違うのは、彼が自分の会社サンライズ・サーフボードのボードのみを使用していることだ。私が興味を抱いていることに気づいたアーンは12 時間の勤務後にサーフボードの工場を見学しないかと誘ってくれた。午後 10 時過ぎ、レギャンの有名な道や夜の賑わいを抜けて、空港のある南へと疲れた身体で車を走らせた。工場は観光地であるクタの影に隠れた人口の多いジャラン・ケディリの中心にあり、特別にビーチに近いわけではない。多くの観光客が目にするバリとは違う。サンライズに足を踏み入れると、自分の家のような心地良さを感じた。建物の簡素な外観やコンクリートの壁の向こう側では、20 代前半から半ばの4 人のインドネシア人の青年が、リラックスした楽しい雰囲気のなかで、深夜までサーフボードをつくっていた。「ガン」スプレー塗装を見るさいは顔用マスクを手渡される。2 人の青年がフォームボードの出荷の準備をしながら、箱に入ったドーナツを食べていた。隣の部屋ではアーンがショートボードの表面の最終仕上げに目を通していて、丸一日ビーチで過ごした後にこの作業をおこなうスタミナをどうして得られるのか不思議に思った。彼の真っ黒に日焼けした顔と髪を見れば、生まれてからずっとバリでサーフィンをしていると思うかもしれないが、彼にはひどいジャワ語訛りがあった。「ぼく海の近くで育ったけど、サーフィンはしていなかった」と話す。彼は東ジャワ州の州都スラバヤで生まれ育った。スラバヤは近代的な工業都市だが、驚くほど貧富の差がある。月収は1万円から25万円、都市の拡大にともなって都市の貧困層は生活費の高騰や雇用率の悪化に苦しんでいる。 29 歳のアーンは若い頃は大抵の時間を漁師として過ごしたが、開発が進んで貧困が彼を襲うことになる。「タバコを買うお金さえなかった」と言って彼は笑ったが、その顔はすぐに暗くなった。「食べるものを買うお金もなかったんだ」それでもバリには金があった。南国のパラダイスには年間 4 百万の観光客が訪れている。アーンは荷物をまとめて、観光ビジネスで働き口が見つかることを祈って友人数名とバリへと向かった。どこへ向かえばいいのかもわからなかった彼は、友人とサーフィンをしに行き、たった3日で波乗りを学んだ。彼はク SUMMER 2016

He was born and raised in the East Java capital of Surabaya. Although Surabaya is a modern industrial city, the wealth gap is staggering. Monthly income ranges anywhere from ¥10,000 to ¥250,000 and, as the city expands, poor urban populations struggle with higher living costs and unemployment levels. Twenty-nine-year-old Aan spent most of his youth as a fisherman, but poverty struck when development increased. “I smoke and had no money to buy cigarettes,” he laughs, then his face soon turns somber. “But, I also had no money for food.” Yet there was money in Bali. The tropical paradise attracts four million visitors a year. Aan packed up his bags and set off for Bali with a few friends in hopes of finding employment in the tourism business. Unsure of where to start, he went surfing with a friend and learned to ride the waves in just three days. He practiced by himself every day at Kuta Beach. Perhaps it is the nostalgia speaking, but he claims Kuta, regardless of how crowded or chaotic it is, remains one of his favorite surf spots. Meanwhile, his cousin, also from Surabaya, wanted to start a surfboard factory in Bali. With some research and a lot of trial and error, the duo perfected their first board in a month. Sunrise Surfboards was off and running. It wasn’t long before orders started coming in from as far away as South Korea. Soon the enterprising Aan was able to save money for his next project: attending Japanese school in Osaka. Like most Surabayans, Aan only spoke Indonesian and Javanese at the time and almost no English, but he wanted to set himself apart from the other vendors. “The number of Japanese tourists was growing in Bali. So many (surf instructors) already spoke English, so I wanted to learn Japanese.” In 2011, he signed up for a three-and-a-half-year course in Osaka, while working at a duct tape factory. Japan was a special time. During holidays, he would travel to Kyoto and Chiba to catch the waves. Today, Aan continues to shape Sunrise boards with his cousin and manages staff from Jakarta and Surabaya who, like him, moved to Bali in pursuit of a better life. Once a year, he uses his yearly savings to fly home to visit his family. When I ask if he wants to do this forever, he seems unsure, yet going with the flow. “Who knows? I’m single now, but if I get married and have a family in Surabaya, I may move back. But for now, my life is in Bali.” ✤

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SHAPING THE FUTURE IN BALI タビーチで毎日ひとり練習した。彼には懐かしい話なのだろうが、彼はどれほど混雑していようとも、クタはいまでも彼のお気に入りのサーフスポットのひとつだと言った。その頃、おなじくスラバヤ出身の彼のいとこがサーフボードの工場を立ち上げたいと考えていた。研究や試行錯誤を重ね、ふたりは最初のボードを一ヶ月で完成させた。これがサンライズ・サーフボードのはじまりである。遠く離れた韓国から注文が来るようになるのに長くはかからなかった。アーンはすぐに次のプロジェクトのための資金を貯めることに成功する。それは大阪の日本語学校に入学することだった。ほかの多くのスラバヤ人のように、アーンは当時インドネシア語とジャワ語しか話すことができず、英語もほとんど話せなかったが、彼はほかの業者との差別化を望んでいた。「バリを訪れる日本人観光客の数は増えていて、多くのサーフィンインストラクターは英語を話していたから、自分は日本語を学ぼうと思ったんだ」 2011年、彼は大阪で3年半のコースに申し込み、ダクトテープの工場で働いた。日本で過ごした時間は特別なものだった。休日には京都や千葉に行って波乗りを楽しんだ。アーンは現在も、いとことサンライズボードの生産をつづけていて、彼のようにより豊かな生活を求めてバリへやってきたジャカルタやスラバヤ出身のスタッフの管理をおこなっている。また、彼は年に1 度、貯めたお金で実家へ帰り家族に会う。この生活をずっとつづけたいかと訊いたら、確信は持っていないようで、成り行きにまかせるという感じだった。「今は独身だけど、もし結婚してスラバヤで家族ができたら、戻るかもしれません。だれにもわからないけど、でも今のところは、私の生活はバリにあるんだ」✤

Cambodia China Indonesia Maldives Mozambique Qatar Thailand United Arab Emirates Vietnam Zambia

SUMMER 2016

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REFRESHING ALPINE ADVENTURES A BY TONY GRANT

nyone who has spent a lot of time here knows the mountains of Japan are an adventure playground of almost unlimited scope. When I arrived here a decade ago, there was plenty of information in English about hiking but precious little about more technical climbing. I was someone who wanted to get out as much as possible, with a predominant interest in alpine, rock and winter climbing, so this was a real challenge for me. On many occasions, discovering critical info about routes, grades and access was almost as hard as the climbs themselves. In 2007, I started a blog to address this situation. I called it Climb Japan and, over the years, as I climbed more and more here, the site has grown. It takes time and effort, both to climb the routes and to document them, but my hope is to unlock some of these experiences for others who don’t yet have the Japanese language skills to process Japanese guidebook descriptions.

In 2016, I finally published the first book in the Climb Japan series, “10 Classic Alpine Climbs of Japan.” It covers a range of routes for all seasons, most on mountains at or around 3,000 meters, as well as some of the Tanigawadake routes that are great in summer. I sincerely hope it forms a springboard for many to find adventures on the great ridges and walls of the Japanese mountains, starting with some summer alpine fun. If you live in the city and the thought of three months of sweating in the shade gets you down, don’t worry; there are plenty of places to find high ground and beat the heat. Here are a few of my favorite ways to escape and refresh in the great outdoors.

SUMMER 2016

RUN FOR THE HILLS

The sweet spot for trail runs is at or above 2,000 meters. If you are looking for a quick one-day trip from Tokyo, it is hard to beat the mountains of Niigata in summer. Travel just three hours up the Kanetsu Expressway, with a Starbucks Coffee strategically placed at Kamisato Rest Area for a pre-run caffeine boost, and you’re in business. Niigata has it all. From the boardwalks of the marshy plateau atop Naeba-san ( 苗場山 ) to the elevated dramatic peak of Echigo-Komagatake ( 越後駒ヶ岳 ) and on to the

calm beauty of the Oze Marshlands viewed from the summit of Hiuchigatake ( 燧ヶ岳 ). One of my personal favorites is the long piston run up and down Hiragatake ( 平ヶ岳 ). Soak in the surreal “land that time forgot” ambiance of Egg Rock ( たまご岩 ) on the pond-covered plateau below the summit. It makes for a challenging day, as it is a 21-K round-trip run with an elevation gain of 1,270 meters, and this is after a fourhour drive each way, making it right on the cusp of what’s doable as a day-trip from Tokyo. Yet, if I had to choose just one trip, it would be the Nukubi-sawa ( ヌクビ沢 ) on Mt. Makihata ( 巻機山 ). Catch it early just after the rainy season, and you will be on snow almost the whole way up this beautiful sawa climb. It’s not a pushover though, and you may find a 30-meter rope helpful to protect some of the transitions from snow to rock. The snow-cooled air flowing down this valley is the ultimate antidote for the Tokyo furnace.

Never head into the mountains without a head torch in your pack. You can handle a few hours without food or water if necessary, but without light, you’ll be reduced to a standstill.

Don’t forget to put on plenty of sun block!

SUMMER TIPS

Dehydration is bad news in the Japanese summer; carry several liters of water and salt candies for replacing electrolytes.

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TAKE A COLD SHOWER Like many of the finest crazy ideas, sawanobori (shower climbing) has a uniquely Japanese flavor. For those yet to discover the joys of this esoteric branch of mountaineering, the rules are simple. You start low down in the valley and ascend a river to its source by rock-hopping, swimming across pools and gorges and climbing any waterfalls you meet along the way. Now, what could possibly go wrong? One of the best introductory sawa climbs is Mizunesawa ( 水根沢 ). Take a bus from Okutama Station toward Okutama Lake and hop off at the roundabout below the dam. The drop-in point is several hundred meters up the

For maximum traction on wet rock, get a pair of felt-soled sawa shoes or boots, available at most outdoor shops in Japan.

REFRESHING ALPINE ADVENTURES road on your right. This delightful outing will see you climbing short rock steps against the full flow of the river, scrambling up a steep-sided gorge, and finally stemming your way up an incredible natural feature known as the half-pipe waterfall. This much fun should be illegal. Those more seasoned in the dark arts of sawanobori should consider ascending Niigata’s Nishisenno-sawa ( 西センノ沢 ) on Tairappyou-san ( 平標山 ). Wide open granite slabs funnel you up, at eversteepening gradients, toward the summit ridge and an

Everything that isn’t sealed inside a waterproof bag will get wet, so pay attention to important items such as your phone and camera.

open bivouac near the summit of Sennokura-yama ( 仙ノ倉山 ).

Continue on the following day along the spectacular ridgeline to Tanigawadake and finish this trip with a fine hyakumeizan summit. I highly recommend this classic outing.

Carry a 30-meter rope and some slings for protection in waterfalls where necessary. Sawa climbing is great fun, but an injury during a climb is no fun at all.

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GET YOUR LEAD ON For climbers, what bliss it is to ditch the crampons, ice tools and burdensome winter clothing and head up into the vertical plane unencumbered in summer. Above the tree line, moving free and easy up the rock, surrounded by blue skies and the green explosion of early summer. It is pure joy. One often-overlooked location is Tsuzura-iwa ( つづら岩 ), high on the Mazukari ridge near Okutama. There are routes for all difficulty levels, with stainless steel bolted rappel anchors at the top. On a clear day, the views to Mt. Fuji are magnificent. For something longer, with plenty of air and exposure, try the six-pitch Central arête of Futago-yama ( 二子山中央稜 ) in the Chichibu Mountains. With comfortable belay ledges

and plenty of protection in place, this route is a stress-free intro to the joys of multi-pitch climbing on limestone. The 5.9 crux is a real stunner. If you prefer something with more drama and an alpine feel, then bathe in the history of Japanese mountaineering in the Ichinokura-sawa Valley ( 一ノ倉沢 ) of Tanigawadake ( 谷川岳 ). The climbing on the Eboshi-sawa Oku-heki is not for everyone, and experience and judgement are needed, but classic routes such as Nan-ryō, Chuo-ryō, Henkei Chimney and Ojou-heki speak for themselves. Be really careful up there though; there is a lot of loose rock around. ✤

SUMMER TIPS Use double ropes on multi-pitch climbs to facilitate longer rappels and to increase your options if a rope gets cut by rock fall.

Do not blindly trust in-situ anchors in Japan. Always double-check protection points and equalize your anchors.

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REFRESHING ALPINE ADVENTURES

Tony Grant’s first book in his Climb Japan series, “10 Classic Alpine Climbs of Japan,” is the first, and only, English-language guide of its kind. It is now available in both print and e-book formats through Amazon. Check out more of Tony’s climbing and trail running adventures at: www.climbjapan.blogspot.jp

SUMMER 2016

Let’s Go! Tanzawa Oyama Yamanami Stamp Rally WHAT ’ S A STAMP RALLY? In Japan, a“stamp rally”is a popular“game”often put on by cities and towns where participants can collect stamps by visiting different attractions or locations in the area. Once they have collected all the stamps, they can exchange their completed stamp rally cards for prizes. This year, the Tanzawa and Oyama areas will be hosting the“Yamanami Stamp Rally”with interesting locations ranging from train stations, ancient temples, trail heads and the top of three famous mountains in the Tanzawa and Oyama areas. “What? I need to climb mountains to collect my stamps?”Yes, but no need to rush. The Stamp Rally started on April 1 and goes until March 31, 2017, to collect your stamps, and there will be a lucky draw at the end with some fantastic prizes.

HOW TO PARTICIPATE • Pick up a stamp rally card at one of the stamp rally exchange stations. These stamp rally cards will cost ¥500. • Enjoy hiking in the beautiful Hadano area and, when you reach a stamp station, get your card stamped. You can collect your stamps in any order you like. • Once you’ ve collected all the stamps, take your card to a Stamp Rally Exchange station to collect your prize. Remember to get your card stamped for proof of completion. • Fill out your name, address and contact information on your card and hand it in at the Stamp Rally Exchange Station. (Remember to make sure you have the proof of completion stamped on your card.) You can also mail in your card later.

STAMP RALLY EXCHANGE STATIONS Stamp Rally cards and prizes (in exchange for completed card) are available at the following stations: • Donguri House (Okura): Near the Okura bus stop. Open: Weekdays 9 a.m. – 5 p.m., Saturdays, Sundays and holidays 7 a.m. – 5 p.m. (Closed on Mondays). Tel: (0463) 87-0021. どんぐりハウス(大倉)大倉バス停の近く *営業時間(平日)9 a.m. – 5 p.m., (土日祝日)7 a.m. – 5 p.m. (月曜定休)

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• Hadano Tourist Office: Next to the Odakyu Line at Hadano Station. Open: All year round 9 a.m. – 8 p.m. Tel: (0463) 83-6477. 秦野観光案内所

*営業時間9 a.m. – 8 p.m.（年中無休） • Otsuya Kyarabuki Honpo: Located along the Oyama Koma Sandou. Open: 9 a.m.- 4:30 p.m. with occasional holidays. Tel: (0463) 95-2704.

is at the summit. The other two locations are easier to get to: • Donguri House (Okura) どんぐりハウス(大倉) Tel: (0463) 87-0021. • Oyama Tourism Office 大山観光案内所 Tel: (0463) 95-5333. *Make sure to check the opening/closing times for each location beforehand.

大津屋きゃらぶき本舗（大山こま参道）

*営業時間9 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. (不定休) • Oyama Tourist Office: Next to the Oyama Cable Bus Stop. Open: All year round 7 a.m.- 5 p.m. Tel: (0463) 95-2013. 大山観光案内所

*営業時間 7 a.m. – 5 p.m. (年中無休)

You can also purchase Stamp Rally cards, but NOT exchange prizes at: • Isehara Station Tourist Office: Located near the north exit stairs of Isehara train station. Open year round: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. (Closed for lunch 12:30 – 1:30 p.m.) Tel: (0463) 95-5333 – cannot exchange 伊勢原駅観光案内所（小田急線伊勢原駅北口階段途中）

*営業時間9 a.m. – 5 p.m. (12:30 – 13:30昼休み)(年中無休)

WHERE CAN I GET MY STAMP RALLY CARD STAMPED? You must collect six different stamps from the following stamp stations in order to complete your card. • Miyama Sansou (Tanzawa-san) みやま山荘(丹沢山) Tel: (090) 2624-7229. • Sonbutsu Sansou (Tounodake) 尊仏山荘(塔ノ岳) Tel: (090)2569-6013. • Nabewari Sansou (Nabewariyama) 鍋割山荘 (鍋割山) Tel: (0463) 87-3298. • Oyama Sanchou (Oyama) 大山山頂(大山) Tel: (0463) 95-2013 (Oyama Shimosha Jinja) • Miyama, Sonbutsu, and Nabewari stamp stations are inside the mountain huts (sansou) on top of the mountains and can be reached by hiking up. Oyama does not have a mountain hut, but the stamp station

WHAT KIND OF PRIZES CAN I WIN? Participants who have collected all six stamps will receive a“four seasons tenugui”towel only available for those who complete this stamp rally. A different towel with different seasonal motifs will be given out, depending on the month. April – June: Spring motif towel. July – September: Summer motif towel. October – November: Fall motif towel. December – March: Winter motif towel. Starting this year, there will also be a“Grand Slam Award.”Each season ’ s motif towel comes with a special sticker inside the bag. Collect these stickers from all four types of towels, and you will receive a 50th Anniversary of Tanzawa National Park and Grand Slam Award badge. Also remember to mail in your completed Stamp Rally card for the lucky draw. Winners will receive special prizes ranging from outdoor goods to local specialties.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION “ Let ’ s Go! Tanzawa Oyama Yamanami ”Stamp Rally

Official Website Let ’ s Go! www.kankou-hadano.org/tanzawastamprally/ Hadano Tourism Office 秦野市観光協会 Tel: (0463) 82-8833 www.kankou-handano.org Oyama Tourism Office 大山観光案内所 Tel: (0463) 95-5333 http://oyama-kankou.a.la9.jp

SUMMER 2016

5 DAY HIKES FROM TOKYO By Rie Miyoshi

Whether you are traveling through Japan on a tight schedule or just need a quick escape from the city to clear your mind, there are plenty of options. Here are our top picks for the season.

1 Mt. Takao

2 Mt. Otake

One of the most convenient and family-friendly hikes, Mt. Takao has eight trails, six of which are designated as “nature study courses” ranging from easy to intermediate. There is a mid-point with a great beer garden, monkey park, shrines and food stalls you can reach via cable car or lift. If you prefer to walk, take Route 1 up before continuing to Route 4 for a stroll over a suspension bridge. Route 6, which goes directly from the base of the mountain to the top, is a slippery path alongside a stream with small waterfalls including Biwa Falls along the way. Round trip takes about three or four hours. From Mt. Takao’s peak, you can see Mt. Fuji and the Tanzawa Mountains to the south. Mt. Takao is part of the Mt. Jinba Trail, a five-hour hike passing by the peaks of Shiroyama and Kagenobuyama and ending at the 857-meter-high Mt. Jinba.

Located in Okutama, the western edge of Tokyo, Otakesan (1,267 meters) is one of Tokyo’s highest peaks. On a clear day especially before noon, you will be rewarded with a view of Mt. Fuji. Must-sees on this hike are two waterfalls, Nanayo Falls and the bigger Ayahiro Falls, a famous “power spot” used for takigyo (traditional waterfall meditation). To get to these falls, you go through the Rock Garden, a narrow, forested valley noted for its moss-covered rocks. It takes around an hour from Mt. Mitake but is relatively easy and childfriendly. Mt. Otake is another hour from the Rock Garden. The trail is not extreme, but be aware that the last stretch up is rocky and can be slippery. There is a shorter trail that leads you back to Mt. Mitake on a different route. Signs are written in English and Japanese.

Getting There : Mt. Takao’s trailhead is a five-minute walk from Takaosanguchi Station on the Keio Takao Line. The fee for the cable car that goes up to the mid-point is ¥480 for adults and ¥240 for children.

Getting There : Take the train to Mitake Station on the JR Ome Line, then bus (10 minutes) or walk (30-40 minutes) to the Mitake-san Cable Car Station. From there, ride the cable car (¥545) or walk on a paved road up to Mt. Mitake ( 929 meters).

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3 Hyakuhiro Falls

4 Daibutsu Course

5 Ten-en Trail

The 40-meter-high Hyakuhiro Falls deep in Okutama is an impressive sight. If you start just past Kawanori Bridge, it takes about two-and-a-half hours to reach the falls from the Mt. Kawanori trailhead. The first half takes you up a paved road before descending into the valley. The beauty of this trail is the solitude. Unlike Mt. Mitake and Mt. Takao, there are no vending machines, shrines, rest stops and food stalls lining the streets. Follow the sign that says “Hyakuhiro-no-taki” in Japanese (百尋ノ滝). Be sure to wear proper hiking shoes as the latter half, especially the last half-hour, can be slippery. The icy waterfall is usually quiet except for the white-spotted char swimming in the streams and pools. From the falls, you can continue your ascent up Mt. Kawanori (two hours) or head back to check out the karst limestone Nippara Cave, the largest in the Kanto Region. The cave extends more than 1,270 meters, of which 800 meters is accessible, and takes about 40 minutes to explore.

Kamakura may be famous for its traditional temples and well-preserved streets, but this seaside town also offers plenty of trails to explore in the nearby hills. Walk down the road past Hase’s famous Great Buddha statue to find a flight of stairs which is the start of the Daibutsu Course. This trail through Kamakura’s woods connects Hase to KitaKamakura’s Jochiji Temple and takes about one to two hours to complete. Enjoy views overlooking the ocean, parks and traditional temples and homes along the way, as well as a serene bamboo grove that is usually empty save a few locals gathering takenoko (baby bamboo shoots). If you’re feeling hungry after your hike, there are plenty of soba restaurants near Kita-Kamakura’s famous Engakuji Temple.

Another great trail in Kamakura is the Ten-en Hiking Course. It starts at the lesser-known Hansobo Shrine above Kenchoji Temple in Kita-Kamakura and continues on to Zuisenji Temple through the “Kamakura Alps.” A little more challenging than the Daibutsu Course, the trail is easily a one-to-two-hour hike depending on your fitness, and it is mostly uphill with yagura (tomb caves) and bamboo groves mid-way. The trail doesn’t get too crowded, and there are many signs in English and Japanese along the way. Alternatively, you could start from Kamakuragu Shrine, and in 30-40 minutes, reach the trail’s “Ten-en Trail Rest Stop,” which serves piping hot oden, tonjiru soup and cold tokoroten noodles. However, they are more famous for their yuzu-flavored daikon (radish) and tofu paired with different types of miso (soy paste).

Getting There : Walk along the road toward the Daibutsu (Great Buddha) at Hase Station on the Enoshima Electric Railway. Five minutes down the road, you will find a flight of stairs on your right which leads to the trail.

Getting There : From Okutama Station, take the bus heading toward Kawanori Bashi (10 minutes) or walk (30-40 minutes) to the Mt. Kawanori trailhead.

Getting There : Kenchoji is a 15-to-20-minute walk from Kita-Kamakura Station on the JR Yokosuka Line or a 15-minute walk from Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine near Kamakura Station. You can catch the bus back to Kamakura from Zuisenji Temple at Ootounomiya (15 minutes from the temple). ✤

Want to explore more around Kamakura? Check out Feather Legs Outdoors for English-guided hiking tours. Details at www.facebook.com/featherlegskamakura

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