Outdoor Japan Traveler - Issue 61 - Autumn 2016

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ISSUE 61 | AUTUMN 2016 | FREE

AN INTERVIEW WITH

TRAVIS RICE THE RECKLESS OPTIMIST

Aizu Unplugged at Komanokoya

䌚接駒ヶ岳 駒の小屋

Islands of the Demon King マンボりの島

Miyako Magic

宮叀マゞック

Baird Beer and more! ADVENTURE

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PEOPLE

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C U LT U R E

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TRAVEL



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I N S I D E I S S U E 61 ■ S U M M E R 2 016

26 THE RECKLESS OPTIMIST

AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE むンタビュヌ トラビス・ラむス 無鉄砲なオプティミストによる新次元の映画 16

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F E AT U R E S

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Globalwheels and Global Cycling Tour

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From the Fish Market to the World Market

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INSIDE

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From the Editor

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Guide Lines

宮叀マゞック

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Organic Cotton in Japan

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Market Watch

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Cycling japan

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Beer Buzz

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Local Brew

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Travel & Adventure Directory

Miyako Magic

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Aizu Unplugged: Komanokoya 䌚接駒ヶ岳 駒の小屋

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An Interview with Travis Rice

Islands of the Demon King

むンタビュヌ トラビス・ラむス

マンボりの島

T R AV E L E R


M A R C R U F F IN I

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C A P T U R E D B Y M A R C R U F F INI

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■ FROM THE EDITOR Gardner Robinson, Editor-in-Chief gardner@outdoorjapan.com

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apan is a land of seasons. Get out of the city, and you’ll see how the landscape is constantly changing from green to gold to sparkling white with many colors in between. The distinct natural cycle here makes Japan a special place to experience throughout the year. When Travis Rice, arguably the most iconic snowboarder of his generation, began planning the follow-up to “The Art of Flight,” widely considered the greatest snowboarding film ever made, he chose to follow this natural cycle. Having competed and filmed in Japan countless times, Travis and his Brain Farm team were no strangers to Japan’s snow-laden mountains, but this time they were coming with a new purpose; to chart and follow the process of water and the weather patterns across the Pacific. The result of nearly five years of planning, waiting, shooting and blind optimism is “The Fourth Phase,” an epic, personal film of snowboarding and adventure.

Outdoor Japan was pleased to be able to play a small part in helping to arrange shooting in Japan and, after watching the Tokyo premier, we’re sure snow (and Rice) fans will be stoked as well. Check out the exclusive interview with Travis about the steps that led up to this film and the challenges of filming and riding in Japan. Outdoor Japan is on a cyclical path as well, in a sense going back to the future. Back in 2000, we went online with a mission to introduce local areas, fun activities and off-the-beaten-track destinations and connect travelers with some great tour operators around Japan. In 2005, we launched Traveler magazine, the first English (or bi-lingual) magazine about travel and the outdoors in Japan. Since then, we’ve published our annual Japan Snow Guide, developed a Japan Snow Guide Mobile app for iOS and Android, and have published hundreds of guides and stories of travel and adventure in Japan.

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本は四季折々の囜だ。街から出れば、その颚景 た。アりトドアゞャパンも、日本での撮圱のアレンゞなど が緑からさたざたな色をあいだにはさんで、茝く癜に で参加させおもらい、東京でのプレミアを芋た今、雪山 倉化しおいくのが芋おずれる。このはっきりずした自然の ずラむスの ファンには埅望の䜜品であるこずを保障す サむクルのおかげで日本は䞀幎を通しお楜しむこずができ る。トラビスのむンタビュヌで、どのような段階を螏んでこ る堎所だ。 の映像ができあがったのか、そしお日本での撮圱におけ スノヌボヌダヌずしお同䞖代ではアむコン的存圚のトラ るチャレンゞに぀いおもぜひ読んでみおほしい。 ビス・ラむスは、スノヌボヌドの映像ずしお最高だず目され そしお、アりトドアゞャパンも同様の呚期のただ䞭にあ おいる 『The Art of Flight』の続線に、この日本の自然のサ り、いわば、今は未来に戻るような感芚である。2000幎 むクルを利甚するこずにした。日本の雪山をよく知っおいる にりェブサむトを立ち䞊げ、日本の地元の楜しみや、人 トラビスずブラむアン・ファヌムのチヌムは、詊合や撮圱で 里離れた堎所の情報、そしお旅行者のための囜内優良 日本は䜕床も蚪れおいるが、今回は倪平掋を暪断する気 ツアヌなどを玹介しおきた。 象状況を远いながら撮圱するずいう新たな目的があった。 2005幎には『トラベラヌマガゞン』を創刊し、日本初の 5幎にわたる綿密な蚈画ず埅機ず撮圱、そしお極端な 英語そしお、バむリンガルのアりトドアトラベル誌ずなっ 楜芳䞻矩の結果、 『 The Fourth Phase 』ずいう、 ずおもパヌ た。そしお幎に䞀床、 『 Japan Snow Guide 』を発行し、こ ゜ナルなスノヌボヌドのアドベンチャヌフィルムが完成し ちらは同時にアプリも開発。日本の旅のガむドやストヌ

OUTDOOR JAPAN TRAVELER Published Seasonally Publisher Outdoor Japan Media

Media Coordinator Rie Miyoshi

Editor-in-Chief Gardner Robinson

Contributing Editors Wayne Graczyk, Shigeo Morishita

Editor Bill Ross

Translators Kumiko Kurosaki, Yoshine Lee, Eri Nishikami, Kazusa Murai, Lana Sofer

Art Director Yuki Masuko

Contributors Joan Bailey, Lee Dobson, Eddie Gianelloni, Bryan Harrell, Neil Hartmann, Abdel Ibrahim, Pauline Kitamura, Takashi Niwa, Tim Rock, Robert Self, Justin Stein, Bonnie Waycott, Craig Yamashita Sales & Marketing media@outdoorjapan.com

©2016 OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED. VIEWS EXPRESSED HEREIN ARE NOT NECESSARILY THOSE OF OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. PRINTED IN JAPAN.

AIRLINE PARTNERS

Traveler magazine is available at selected lounges, reservations counters and in-flight libraries with the following airline partners.

トラベラヌマガゞンは、空枯ラりンゞや予玄カりンタヌや、右蚘航空 䌚瀟むンフラむト・ラむブラリヌにおお読みいただけたす。

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In 2017, we are taking another step forward while also circling back to our roots as we launch Outdoor Japan Adventures (OJA) a new online and mobile platform with the simple goal to make it easier for travelers to find and book exciting tours to local areas of Japan. This easy-to-use travel and adventure booking engine will include videos, images and stories about tours, tour operators and experiences throughout Japan. Look out for the BETA version to be out in time for some cool winter tours, followed by the official launch in February 2017. In addition to the Travis Rice interview, you’ll find many of our favorite things in this issue, from autumn activities and events to Japan’s top craft brewer, from eco-activists to travel and diving adventures. Every season is a new adventure in Japan, and we hope we can continue to make it easier for you to find yours.

リヌを数倚く提䟛しおきた。 そしお 2 0 1 7 幎 、初 心にもどり、O u t d o o r J a p a n AdventuresOJAずいう新しいりェブサむトをオンラむン、 モバむルにお立ち䞊げる。日本でのツアヌ予玄や地元 のスポットぞのガむドなどがより簡単になるはずだ。 この予玄システムでは、ツアヌや日本での経隓に぀ いおのビデオや写真、さたざたな䜓隓談を盛り蟌む。冬 のツアヌにはベヌタ版で䜓隓しおいただける予定で、そ の埌2017幎2月には正匏にオヌプン予定である。 トラビス・ラむスのむンタビュヌに加えお、秋の行楜や むベントに぀いおの情報、日本最高峰のクラフトビヌル 情報、環境掻動家やダむビングに぀いおの蚘事も満茉。 日本では新しい季節は新たなアドベンチャヌを意味す る。そしお、わたしたちは皆さたのアドベンチャヌプランを たいしん もっず簡玠化できるようこれからも邁進しおいきたす。

Outdoor Japan Media

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Cover Photo: “The Fourth Phase,” written in Kanji by Travis Rice. Photo by Jason/Halayko Red Bull Content Pull


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GUIDE LINES

Banff Mountain Film Festival 2016 in Japan From ice climbing glaciers to surfing arctic breaks, the Banff Film Festival brings epic tales of adventure and exploration to Japan. “Arctic Swell”

“Climbing Ice”

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tories of jaw-dropping expeditions, incredible adventures and travels to far-flung corners of the earth once again hit the big screen as the Banff Mountain Film Festival makes several stops in Japan. Stunning films include action sports photographer Tim Kemple’s visit to Vatnajökull, an Icelandic glacier that can be seen from space, with two of Europe’s most experienced ice climbers, Klemen Premrl and Rahel Schelb. Surfers will be sure to be familiar with award-winning surf photographer Chris Burkard who captures surfing at the ends of the earth in “Arctic Swell.” Back on the U.S. mainland, “Showdown at Horseshoe Hell” documents the wildest event in the climbing world that takes place in northwest Arkansas. In “Darklight,” the soulful Sweetgrass filmmakers illuminate the night with professional mountain bikers Graham Agassiz, Matt Hunger and Matty Miles racing through the Pacific Northwest. A major purpose for the Banff Mountain Film Festival is to raise awareness of land and wildlife preservation. In “The Last Dragons” we get an intimate look at North America’s eastern hellbender, a rare and ancient salamander. Six mates, six rivers, three canoes, two months and one idea to “Protect the Peel” and you’ve got ”Paddle for the North,” a 1,500-kilometer canoe trip through the Peel Watershed in Canada. Four friends spend “55 Hours in Mexico” on an outlandish weekend trip to climb the volcano Orizaba, the third-highest peak in North America. These films are not just about aesthetics, but also meaningful storytelling. In Forest Woodward’s moving “The Important Places,” we follow a father-son, 28-day expedition through the Grand Canyon, and tears will be shed in “Denali,” the story of Oregon photographer and surfer Ben Moon’s tribute to his dog who helped him battle through cancer. To purchase tickets and for more information, visit www.banff.jp.

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“Paddle to the North”

Banff Film Festival in Japan 2016 Check the schedule for a showing near you. Minakami, Gunma: Oct. 1 Asahimachi, Toyama: Oct. 8 Tokyo: Oct. 7-10 Nagoya: Oct. 15 Osaka: Oct. 29-30 Yokohama: Nov. 12-13 Sapporo: Nov. 20 Fukuoka: Nov. 23 Sendai: Nov. 26-27

“REEL ROCK”


“The Important Places”

“Darklight”

“The Last Dragons”

“55 Hours in Mexico”

“Denali”

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Autumn Events

Spring Airlines Japan to Connect Hokkaido to Tokyo Traveling to Hokkaido from Tokyo just got easier and cheaper with low-cost carrier Spring Airline Japan’s latest addition. Visitors can now fly out at 7:15 a.m. every day from Narita Airport and arrive in Hokkaido by 9 a.m., leaving plenty of time to settle in and enjoy the fall colors or the snow. There is also a daily return flight from New Chitose Airport to Narita each morning. Web: www.ch.com/en

Zuiki Festival The Zuiki Festival celebrates another successful grain harvest. The annual event started by offering rice husks and the season’s bounty at Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. Zuiki means “taro stalk,” which also makes up the roof of the mikoshi (portable shrine) carried around during the festivities. When: Oct. 1-5 Where: Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine, Kyoto

Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival This annual celebration is one of Japan’s three great lantern festivals and dates back more than 300 years. Nihonmatsu Shrine will be lit up for three nights with eightmeter-high lanterns and taiko drumming at the base. When: Oct. 4-6 Where: Nihonmatsu Shrine, Fukushima

Shonan, Himeji and Takahashi open new Montbell Stores Just in time for the autumn hiking season, three Montbell stores will open this October in beachside Shonan, near Kobe in Himeji and in Takahashi, Gunma. Japan’s top home-grown outdoor brand makes top quality gear for Japan and also organizes some great events. When: October Where: Lalaport Hiratsuka; Himeji, Hyogo and Takahashi, Gunma Web: www.montbell.com

Takayama Matsuri Autumn Festival This is one of Japan’s most beautiful festivals with 11 floats elaborately adorned

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with karakuri ningyo marionettes and motifs depicting Japan’s ancient culture in historic Takayama. When: Oct. 9-10 Where: Sakurayama Hachiman Shrine, Gifu

Ana Hachimangu Yabusame Enjoy the spectacle of Japanese horseback archery, called yabusame, in the heart of Tokyo. This ancient sport is traditionally held in spring and autumn. When: Oct. 10 Where: Ana Hachimangu Shrine, Tokyo

Makino Kogen Family Camp Organized by The North Face Kids Nature School, this family camp in Shiga Prefecture includes kayaking, trekking and bonfires in a pristine riverside location near Biwa Lake. ¥8,000 for adults and ¥4,000 for elementary students. When: Oct. 15-16 Where: Makino Kogen, Shiga Web: www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/kids-ns

Cliff Diving World Series 2016 The Red Bull cliff diving elite moves to Shirahama for the first time this fall. At 50 meters high along the Pacific Ocean, Sandanbeki cliff in Wakayama provides a dynamic and completely natural setting for the divers. The Shirahama contest is the penultimate stop before the Dubai finals. When: Oct. 16 Where: Sandanbeki, Yoshino Kumano National Park Web: www.redbullcliffdiving.com

Feel EARTH 2016 Camp outside listening to folk tunes while soaking up fresh autumn air in Shizuoka. Along with music, there are fun activity and craft workshops for all ages including yoga, BBQ and cooking, candle-making, playgrounds for kids and rock climbing. When: Oct. 15-16 Where: Onoji Family Camp, Shizuoka Web: www.ei-publishing.co.jp/ feelearth2016/

Jidai Matsuri, Kyoto More than 2,000 people will parade in traditional Japanese wear through Kyoto, reflecting the city’s 1,200-year history. The procession starts from Kyoto Imperial

Palace, traveling along Oike-dori to Heian Jingu Shrine. When: Oct. 22 (Kyoto Imperial Palace: noon, Oike-dori street: 12:50 p.m., Heian Jingu Shrine: 2:30 p.m.) Where: Kyoto Imperial Palace /Oike-dori street/ Heian Jingu Shrine Web: www.kyoto-magonote.jp/en/ feelearth2016/ * Special seats with English guidance are available for ¥3,500 from Kyoto City Tourism Association: Tel: (075) 213-1717,

Shirasagi-no Mai (White Heron Dance) Shirasagi-no Mai is a ceremonial parade with eight dancers dressed as white herons to depict ancient stories from the Heian Period (8th to 12th century). When: Nov. 3 Where: Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Mt. Mizugaki Climbing The North Face Kids Nature School takes children around Mt. Mizugaki to learn climbing from Yuji Hirayama. As the first Asian climber to win the Lead World Cup in 1998, Hirayama is one of Japan’s top rock climbers and is an athlete for The North Face. When: Nov. 5 Where: Mt. Mizugaki, Yamanashi Web: www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/kids-ns

Yokonori Nippon Film Festival Check out Japan’s action sports scene at this annual week-long festival dedicated to yokonori, riding sideways, whether it be surf, skate or snow. The film festival is held in the Shonan surf town of Chigasaki, Kanagawa. Admission is ¥1,500 and can be purchased online. When: Nov. 12-18 Where: Aeon Cinema Chigasaki Web: www.yoko-nori.jp

Fall Evening Illumination Enjoy kouyou (autumnal leaves changing color) under the night sky at Rikugien Gardens. Built during the Edo period, this daimyo teien belonged to a feudal lord and remains a popular destination to view kouyou foliage. When: Nov. 19-Dec. 7 Where: Rikugien Gardens, Tokyo


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100 Minutes from Tokyo to an Amazing Winter Playground With the Hokuriku Shinkansen expansion now in its second winter, and a network of buses ferrying visitors from Iiyama to dozens of ski resorts, it’s never been easier to explore the area.

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PAID PUBLICITY

Kamakura

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Nozawa Onsen Village

he Shinetsu Shizenkyo Nature Park is a vast region that includes 39 ski resorts in more than 21 resort areas in Nagano and Niigata prefectures. The park features timeless natural landscapes where you can feel the soul of Japan and enjoy some of the heaviest snowfalls in Japan. The Hokuriku Shinkansen, which extended to Iiyama Station in 2015, now makes it easy to jump off and explore the major ski areas in Iiyama, Nakano, Iizuna, Shinano, Yamanouchi, Kijimadaira, Sakae and Nozawa Onsen in Nagano Prefecture and Myoko in Niigata Prefecture. While this region is most famous for its light, deep powder snow, travelers can also enjoy a

Shinetsu Shizenkyo Activity Center

variety of natural and culture experiences. Many travelers enjoy visiting the popular snow monkeys who warm up in the hot springs in Jigokudani. In mid-winter, visitors can sit in kamakura (Japanese igloos) and enjoy dinner or drinks, participate in cultural festivals such as the Fire Festival in Nozawa Onsen, held every Jan. 15, and of course soak in one of the many local onsen after a day on the slopes. The area is also popular in autumn for hiking, trekking and enjoying the beautiful fall colors. In the green season, guests flock to the mountainous resort areas to escape the heat and enjoy the rivers, lakes and fresh mountain air. Jigokudani Yaen-Koen

SHINETSU SHIZENKYO SUPER VALUE TICKET The Super Value ticket allows visitors to choose from 38 ski resorts. Each Super Value ticket (Price: ¥21,000) includes a packet of five tickets which can be exchanged at any of the 38 resorts for a one-day lift ticket. For lift tickets priced less than ¥4,200, visitors will receive an additional meal and/or onsen ticket. Super Value tickets are available at “TIC Tokyo” at Tokyo Station’s Nihonbashi Exit or “Shinetsu Shizenkyo Activity Center” inside Iiyama Station.

SNOW AREA CONNECT PASS Navigating through the park can be time and money consuming, but with the Snow Area Connect Pass, hop on and off buses with ease. The one-day and two-day passes are available at the Tourist Information Center located in Iiyama Station. Starting from Iiyama Station, participating buses include the Nagaden Bus, Nozawa Liner (and local Nozawa Onsen Bus), Iiyama City’s community bus and Kijimadaira shuttle bus.

Shibu Onsen

ACCESS AND INFORMATION The Shinetsu Shizenkyo Nature Park is easily accessible from the Hokuriku Shinkansen Iiyama Station with buses connecting the station to each village. It takes approximately 100 minutes from Tokyo to Iiyama Station by bullet train. The Shinetsu Shizenkyo Activity Center and Tourist Information Center are open year ’round. Here you can discover tours and more information on mountain trekking, cycling, water sports, snow activities, cultural tours and rentals. Outdoor gear and off-road fat bike rentals are also available here.

Fatbike Rentals

SHINETSU SHIZENKYO TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER Tel: (0269) 62-7000 (9 a.m. – 6 p.m.) E-mail: info@shinetsu-shizenkyo.com Web: www.shinetsu-shizenkyo.com *These photos are images

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SPINNING THE FUTURE OF ORGANIC COTTON IN JAPAN By Rie Miyoshi

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hen was the last time you bought a cotton T-shirt and put any thought into where it’s made? Today’s clothing industry’s self-sufficiency rate is almost non-existent. Even “Made in Japan” clothing may be assembled here, yet most of the materials are imported. In Tokyo, a city of more than 13 million people, but with less than 8,000 hectares of farmland, 48-year-old Takuya Tomizawa of Tokyo Cotton Village is shouting a message, “Kangaeru,” urging people to think about our footprint on this planet. “People are always surprised when I tell them T-shirts can be made naturally from what we grow in the soil,” Tomizawa says. Cotton was first imported from China during the Heian Period in the 9th century, but it was not until the 13th century when it was cultivated. It flourished during the Edo period as more people discovered how comfortable it was. Cotton cultivation is tricky. It thrives in dry places such as Texas or India, but give it too much water and it rots. With Japan’s rainy weather and humid summers, this plant adapted by growing its cotton facing away from the sun and using its petals as an umbrella. At its peak, Japanese cotton expanded to around 200 types, varying in length, thickness and elasticity. However when western culture entered in the Meiji Period, after Japan was forced to open its doors to the world, importing cheaper American cotton was preferred and local cotton production

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came to a halt. Today, only 30 types of cotton exist. Tomizawa’s mission is to ensure these 30 endangered types of cotton don’t die out. Originally from Iwate Prefecture in northern Japan, Tomizawa moved to Tokyo after high school to pursue his dream of being a rock drummer. After three years as a struggling musician, he changed his career path and went into music promoting, working with international artists in Tokyo and even attending school in New York for two years before becoming a successful advertising executive in Tokyo. Music continued to be a part of his life. “As a drummer, I wore cotton T-shirts and ripped jeans to look cool,” Tomizawa laughs. “My point is, cotton was always there. You could say music led me to cotton.” In 2006, former U.S. Vice President Al Gore released the internationally acclaimed documentary, “An Inconvenient Truth,” which led to Live Earth Music Festival, a series of benefit concerts around the world to help combat climate change. Meanwhile, musician and activist Ryuichi Sakamoto had been working on a project to create completely 100 percent Japanese cotton T-shirts. Over six years, he produced 90 T-shirts, which were signed by famous musicians and auctioned off at the festivals in Tokyo and Kyoto. Tomizawa was working at an agency when his client, Subaru, sponsored a project cultivating cotton

with the Tohoku Cotton Project. During the March 11, 2011, disaster, saltwater from the tsunami left northern Japan’s farmland infertile for crops—except for cotton, which is able to withstand high salinity. The Tohoku Cotton Project helps farmers whose rice paddies were flooded by providing cotton seeds, which are harvested and purchased by businesses. As a Tohoku native, Tomizawa was inspired by how northern Japan adapted to its new landscape. “Just like cotton,” he says. He realized very few people were aware Japan used to produce cotton. After receiving seeds of knowledge (and literally, cotton seeds) from the


Tohoku farmers, he launched Tokyo Cotton Village in 2008. Tomizawa thought of moving near the mountains or ocean but realized he needed to bring the inaka (countryside) to Tokyo to reach more people. Tokyo Cotton Village owns two of five cotton farms in East Japan with 20 to 30 pots of pesticidefree cotton in Oita (Tokyo) and Yokohama. The pots make around five kilograms—producing about six T-shirts—of Aizu Fukushima and Tohoku cotton. “We live in a society where we keep buying things. When something breaks, we just buy a replacement,” says Tomizawa. “Information comes so easily, so we simply weed out what we like or dislike. “I used to be a busy salary worker, but Japanese cotton opened my eyes to stop and think about where things actually came from. This is why I want people to make time to be aware of their footprint.” When asked how often the cotton is watered, Tomizawa explains the cotton is usually left alone. Cotton is accustomed to dry areas and spreads its roots deep into the soil to look for water. “If we overwater them, they become weak. We don’t spoil our cotton, we want them to be sturdy—it’s like raising kids,” he laughs. For a participatory fee, anyone can attend workshops to learn more about the process, try their hand at thread spinning and help with the harvesting in the fall and winter. Tomizawa also holds workshops at cafes, music festivals and events. For more information, visit www.tokyocottonvillage. com.

By Joan Bailey

MARKET WATCH Market of the Sun – Taiyo Marche

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ot far from Tsukiji Market and Tokyo Bay is Taiyo Marche, aka the Market of the Sun. Opened in 2013, the market has become a favorite with area residents and attracts visitors from near and far. Regular Tokyo farmers’ market shoppers might recognize some of the 100 or so vendors from other city markets who set up shop here. Offerings range from domestic and imported w i ne, ba ked goods, seasona l f r u its a nd vegetables to artisanal sesame oils. Plenty of craftspeople are also on hand with jewelry, handmade soap, wooden toys and cleverly patterned hats and aprons. A c c ord i ng to A k i ko Ya m agat a , m a rket spokesperson, the Taiyo Marche in Tsukishima Second Children’s Park was founded by Mitsuii Real Estate Residential Corporation as something interesting to do for the occupants of their nearby apartment buildings.

“We wanted consumers to be able to meet the farmers face to face and let farmers promote their wares directly,” Yamagata said. Growers come primarily from Honshu, although depending on the season, those from other regions also join. Yamakura organic tomatoes come from Takayama, Gifu Prefecture, bearing more than 40 varieties of heirloom tomatoes in all shapes, sizes and colors. (Go early to get the best selection as customers, quite literally, eat them up as fast as they appear.) Other growers arrive in autumn from Minami Alps, Shizuoka Prefecture, with somen kabocha (spaghetti squash) and some of the best plums around. Aiyo Farms, a cooperative venture for young farmers, rolls in from Chiba and draws customers with their enthusiasm and fine selection of seasonal vegetables. Specialty shop owners, such as Edible Gardens, line up beside farmers and craftspeople in an effort to increase awareness of their business or test new products. For others, such as Shigeru Yokoyama, it’s a chance to tell consumers exactly where his honey comes from. With every sweet sample given out, Yokoyama describes how his trucks loaded with hives head out each spring to pollinate orchards up and down the country. “This one is very good for the throat,” he says, pointing to a dark brown honey produced from bees working soba fields. Another honey, a pale gold, is harvested

only once a year from a forest hive of native honeybees after they feast on the blossoms of the yamazakura (mountain cherry). The sweet-andsour taste is as unexpected as it is addictive. Monthly themes center around regions and seasonal produce making each market unique. A collection of food trucks, too, offers fresh, tasty treats when the shopping is done. Hokuro, Urth Café, TofuTofu, and Heart C. all offer delightful takes on the season as they make use of fresh vegetables for their primary ingredients. Regular children’s activities and a series of NPO tents mean there is something for the whole family to do and learn about while searching for a new favorite vegetable or jam. Market of The Sun Open: Second Saturday and Sunday of the month 10a.m. – 5p.m. Nearest Station: Kachidoke, Exit 4a/4b

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GlobalWheels

Trading the Big Top for the Open Road

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oung adults are ditching traditional vacation destinations to travel the world on their own terms. Frenchman Jeremie Coulbeaux is one of them. In 2013, the 30-year-old from Toulouse embarked on a world tour with a bike, a flute and 6,000 euros. “I come from a family of four generations of circus performers and musicians,” Coulbeaux explains. During the Algerian War, his mother’s side escaped to France and started a family band in Paris called Les Globetrotter de la Chanson. Today, as Coulbeaux cycles from country to country, he gives flute performances to make extra cash while giving free English lessons. With such a colorful background, he knew he had to travel and satisfy his love of nature and history and decided on a world cycling tour. After studying drums and flute in music school, he continued learning, taking classes in survival and first aid training to get ready for his adventure.

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Beginning in France, Coulbeaux pedaled his way through Europe, then continued down to the Middle East and into Asia. Most of the money he makes busking is spent on food. “I’ve been fortunate to have been hosted by kind people: policemen, the army, Couchsurfers,” says Coulbeaux. “I’ve stayed at mosques, Jewish temples and churches. But most nights while traveling, I sleep in my tent and feed myself through fishing, hunting or eating insects.” Weathering extreme heat and cold, droughts, tropical rains, altitude sickness, storms and typhoons, Coulbeaux has had his share of terrifying moments. While spending a month in an Indian rainforest jungle, Coulbeaux had a near-death experience. “I was alone and set up traps every night to catch squirrels and pigs for food,” he says. “One night, a small creature got caught and started crying, which woke up the rest of the jungle. Monkeys were screaming, birds were

screeching. Then all of a sudden, there was dead silence and I heard footsteps. I peeked outside
and a leopard was standing there, staring at my tent. I thought I was about to die.” Thankfully, the leopard left him alone, so Coulbeaux could resume his journey before taking a short break in China and then continuing on to South Korea. In Pusan, he jumped a ferry for Fukuoka in southern Japan and followed the coast north, touring the Seto Inland Sea. He jammed with his Couchsurfer host in Kyoto and even caught a meteor shower near Mt. Yufu in Beppu. “I’ve always loved Japanese culture and music, and I think that’s reflected in my music,” says Coulbeaux, who spent a year in Tokyo in his early 20s and has relatives there. “In any country, you have to learn the customs and manners,” Coulbeaux says. Japan does not have a hitchhiking culture, so it can be harder for backpackers traveling on a shoestring budget, but Coulbeaux hasn’t had a problem getting around. “Japan, especially in the countryside, has been very good to me. In the countryside, it


T

here’s a special freedom and enjoyment that comes from exploring a new city or the countryside by bicycle. Cycling helped U.K. native Gareth McCready discover new spots he would have never found by car or train. It can be difficult and expensive to bring a bike on international flights and carry it as you travel, but a small company in Kansai is trying to make it easier for travelers in Japan to enjoy some human-powered transportation. Gareth and his friend and business partner, Ian Michie, launched Globalwheels, a road and touring bicycle rental service to help visitors in Japan create their own twowheeled adventures. “We’re both getting older and wanted to start an independent project,” McCready says. “I love Japan, cycling and adventure and wanted to share this with other people.” With almost 20 million tourists visiting each year, Japan is experiencing significant tourism growth, but many visitors only see Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka. “We’re trying to get people to go places which don’t get many visitors,” McCready explains. One of his favorite routes is a halfday ride to lesser-known Minoh in northern Osaka to Katsuoji Temple. After recommending it to a customer, he received feedback that the route was more enjoyable than the usual advertised trips around Kyoto and Osaka. Although Global Wheels launched in February of 2016, it has already attracted a number of travelers, backpackers and outdoor enthusiasts, both foreign and local. “We ask our customers to send us their

measurements, so we can best fit our bikes,” McCready says. The bicycles include hybrid road and city bikes for leisurely cruising and, for more serious road biking, the Scott Speedster S45, GT GTR Series 2, and Felt F85. There are no children’s bicycles available. Using the online social network Strava, they map and recommend routes for customers to follow. For interested cyclists traveling outside the Kansai region, nationwide shipping to your accommodation is available. “We send our bikes using standard takyubin shipping in a box and oftentimes communicate directly with our customers’ accommodation hosts to make the process easier,” McCready explains. “All our customers need to do when they’re done with their trip is send back the bikes in the box. We can send boxes along with the bikes or to their final accommodation destination. We’re looking at ways to keep this as painless as possible with smooth shipping and low costs. Luckily we’ve had success with it so far.” Globalwheels already ships bikes throughout Japan, but McCready has his eyes set on a worldwide service. “After all, it is called Globalwheels,” he laughs. Globalwheels Road Bike Rental Address: 1-16-11 Temma, Kita-ku, Osaka 530-0043 E-mail: hello@globalwheels-japan.com Tel: 080-3864-0421 (every day between 8 a.m. and 9 p.m.) Web: www.globalwheels-japan.com

feels easier and more natural to talk to people and share stories. I’ve been taken in by a few people here as well.” Jeremie plans to fly to San Francisco to continue his journey through North and South America. He has a few plans once he returns to France, including publishing books on his travels, concentrating on his music and promoting ecologically friendly living. To follow his travels, visit his Facebook page at www.facebook.com/jeremsWorldTour. —Rie Miyoshi

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Cycling Japan:

A JOURNEY TO EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL LIFE サむクリング̶それは

土地の暮らしを感じる旅

ROUTE

29

By Takashi Niwa Translated by Sakae Sugahara

NIIGATA PREFECTURE

#

OKUTADAMI

GOAL!

— CYCLING THROUGH AUTUMN’S FINEST COLORS

FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE

START!

GUNMA PREFECTURE

奥只芋犏島県∌新期県

TOCHIGI PREFECTURE

玅葉のベストルヌトはここだ。

<Cycling Notes>

Circles denote areas with overnight accommodation. · Aizu Kogen Ozeguchi Station (Yagan Tetsudo/Aizu Railways): Start 0 km. · Hinoemata Village: 47 km. ○ Miike Highlands: 59.3 km. · · Ginzandaira Basin: 125 km. ○ · Ouyu Onsen: 144 km. ○ · Urasa Station (Joetsu Shinkansen): 164 km. ○印は宿泊可胜゚リア

· 䌚接高原尟瀬口駅野岩鉄道・䌚接鉄道0 km · 桧枝岐村: 47 km. ○ · 埡池: 59.3 km. · 銀 å±± å¹³: 125 km. ○ · 倧湯枩泉: 144 km. ○ · 浊䜐駅 (䞊越新幹線) 164 km. やがん

ぎんざんだいら おおゆ

うらさ

Cycle through an autumn dream. 倢のようなサむクリングがここにある

J

apan in autumn is a sight to behold, and there are many cycling routes that allow you to take in the beautiful autumn foliage. I’ve chosen one which goes across the border between Fukushima and Niigata prefectures through an area called Miike, which can be best recognized as the northern entrance to Oze. The surrounding virgin forest is made up of buna (beech) and other trees that are breathtakingly beautiful. A side, roundtrip ride to Numayama-toge Pass is highly recommended. The route is located in all but the widest part of Honshu Island. It cuts deep into the mountains and is sparsely populated. Due to heavy snowfall, the 100-kilometer section from

the village of Hinoemata to the spa town of Ouyu Onsen has no other year-round settlements. You may occasionally spot huts for commuting farmers who grow vegetables and collect edible wild plants in the non-snow season, and stands catering to sightseers, but not many. Cycling this route requires not only physical strength to pedal the distance, but also skills and tools to fix mechanical troubles, if any occur, on your bike as well as preparedness in securing and carrying necessary food and drink. Autumn leaves on the route are best in mid-October. Including time needed for transportation to and from the start and finish, a three-day itinerary with overnight stays at hot springs is recommended.

箅

葉が矎しいルヌトは数倚くあるが、 がくがもっずも矎

倧湯枩泉の100kmは、豪雪のため1幎を通しお人が䜏む

しいず思うのはここだ。ハむラむトは犏島ず新期県

こずがない。こんな地域はほかには知らない。無積雪期

の県境の、埡池ずいう地域。尟瀬の北偎ず思えば、おお

は出䜜り小屋蟲業や山菜取りのベヌスや、芳光のた

よその䜍眮は芋圓が぀くだろうか

めの斜蚭がいくらかはある皋床だ。

みいけ

䞀垯に広がるブナを䞭心ずする原生林の矎しさは、本圓

それだけに、ペダルを螏むだけではなく、自転車のメカ

に驚くほど。枝道である沌山峠ぞの埀埩も、ぜひ走っお

トラブルぞの察応や、補絊食の準備など、サむクリング

おきたい。

にた぀わる総合力が問われるルヌトでもある。玅葉の芋

ここ本州のもっずも分厚い゚リアずいっおよい。それだ

ごろは10月の䞭旬。東京からなら茪行での移動を含め、

けに山が深く、たた人家も極端に少ない。桧枝岐村から

枩泉に泊たりながらの2泊3日がおすすめだ。

ひのえたたむら

Takashi Niwa actively organizes guided tours around the world, from the back alleys of Tokyo to remote villages in Tibet. He has authored many books including “Otona no Tame no Jitensha NyÅ«mon” (Nihon Keizai Shinbun Shuppansha). His company, Niwa Cycling Tours (www.ncycling.com) organizes tours in Japan and around the world. にわサむクリングツアヌズwww.ncycling.com を䞻宰し、東京の路地裏か 䞹矜隆志にわ たかし らチベットたで、地球䞊のどこかをガむド。 『倧人のための自転車入門』(日本経枈新聞出版瀟刊)な ど著曞倚数。

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BEER BUZZ By Justin Stein

Have Beer? Will Travel Vancouver, British Columbia

M

any of our readers already know that Vancouver, Canada, is a great urban base for outdoor activities. This beautiful city is surrounded by water and mountains that offer excellent ocean sports, winter sports, hiking, mountain biking and more. Vancouver is also quietly becoming a premier North American beer destination. The website BeerMeBC.com lists more than 60 breweries in the greater Vancouver area, with two areas of particularly high concentration. Brewery Creek is a historic site for local beer production, dating back to Vancouver Brewery, which was the largest on the Pacific Coast when it opened its doors in 1888. The surrounding Mount Pleasant neighborhood went through a lot of ups and downs in the years since, but it is currently in a renaissance, and there are six breweries within a block or two of an eight-block stretch of Main Street. These include 33 Acres Brewing with a variety of solid traditional-style beers, Red Truck Beer whose flagship is an awardwinning amber ale, the cozy and tasty Brassneck Brewery and the spacious Main Street Beer, with a wide variety of brews in the historic Vancouver Brewery building. The even more up-and-coming brewery neighborhood is near the hip and popular Commercial Drive (or “The Drive”) in the East Vancouver area. There are so many breweries there (10 and growing) that locals have started calling it “Yeast Van.” The neighborhood’s best-known brewery is Parallel 49, founded by three guys who grew up in the neighborhood. “P-49” served delicious seasonals while I was there, including a kettle sour with apricots called Apricotopus (6.3%) and a very balanced IPA called Dumb Funk (6.8%), brewed with a “wild” yeast called Trois whose fruity esters perfectly complement the hops. Also of note is the “co-working brewery incubator” Callister Brewing Company, which hosts four breweries in the same space. Vancouver rents are very high, so this collaborative approach allows emerging professional brewers to get in the game before being able to afford their own space. When I was there, the tap highlights were Terry’s Orange Chocolate Ale (5.3%) from Lightheart Brewing and The Technique (4%), a barrel-aged golden sour from Boombox Brewing Company. I spoke with a couple of the brewers there who really appreciated the ability to grow their brand and work on pro equipment before

making the leap to their own facilities. There are lots of breweries tak ing advantage of the cheaper rents on the outskirts of town. Four Winds Brewing Company opened in Delta in 2013 and became known nationally two years later when it won Brewery of the Year at the 2015 Canadian Brewing Awards. Their standard beers are all quite good, but their award-winning seasonals are excellent, especially their barrel-aged saison Operis (7%), a tripel made with wild sage honey called Triplicity (9%), and the dry-hopped sour Nectarous (5.5%), named Beer of the Year at the 2016 CBAs. Of particular interest to our readers is Fuggles and Warlock Craftworks, which just opened a production facility in Richmond last year after doing contract and collaboration work. The founders grew up in the Steveston Village area of Richmond, which has a big Japanese population from the fishing industry, and the head brewer and his wife (who designs the Japan-inspired labels) are both of Japanese background. Moreover, all the founders self-identify as “geeks” or otaku, and their love of video games and anime make their brand quite distinctive. The Last Strawberry (4.9%) is a Belgian white beer brewed with strawberries and lactose to give it a sweet fruitiness that plays very well with the wheat and spice notes and make the beer a great complement to pancakes or dessert. Its anime-inspired label is very kawaii. Their summer seasonal was a delicious plum sour called Kiwami (6.3%), packaged with a gold calligraphy label to look like high-end sake, a style they first explored with a collaboration dry-hopped sour called Hikari (7.2%). If you can’t get around to all the breweries, there are a number of great beer bars to sample the goods from the region. The Alibi Room in the historic Gastown neighborhood in the heart of the city might be the best and emphasizes excellence and localness in both the tap selection (which also has some from just south of the border) and on the food menu. On the Drive, check out St. Augustine’s (owned by the P-49 guys) for more than 60 excellent rotating taps and BierCraft for a mix of BC and Belgian beers and a Belgian-inspired menu including delicious mussels. So, next time someone brings up the incredible skiing, hiking, kite surfing or mountain biking in coastal BC, you can add, “I hear the beer is really good too.”

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19


From the Fish Market to the World Market By Rie Miyoshi

From back porch home-brewing to a state-of-the-art sustainableminded brewery on the Izu Peninsula, Baird Beer has grown up continuing to play an important role in growing the appreciation for craft beer in Japan while staying true to their mission to making honest, minimally processed beer.

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AUTUMN 2016

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From the Fish Market to the World Market

“I

was just a beer-loving rugby player,” Bryan Baird laughs. “I’ve always loved beer.” Back in the mid-1990s, when ji-biru (craft beer) was de-regulated in Japan, there was a relatively short craft brew boom around the nation. The craft brewery count quickly jumped from zero to 275, but as mediocre beer started spilling into the market, the craft beer bubble had fizzled out by 1997. “Japan is a sophisticated place where mediocre beer can’t endure,” Bryan explains. Like many young people arriving in Japan for a postuniversity adventure, Bryan came to Japan as a JET, the government-sponsored program to promote native English teaching in public schools in Japan. He fell in love with the country immediately, and not long after, his future wife Sayuri. He was especially impressed with Japan’s emphasis on craftsmanship. Realizing brewing beer had been de-regulated, he believed Japan could be a fertile market for small, craft brewers who focused on quality. In 2000, Bryan and his wife opened a small brew pub in the fishing port town of Numazu in Shizuoka Prefecture. With Sayuri handling the food, Baird was freed to focus on his passion, making good beer with a tiny home-brewing apparatus in 30-liter batches in an old Hoff-Stevens keg. In a little more than 15 years, Baird Beer has grown from a husband-and-wife brewery to a nationally recognized and distributed craft beer with several tap rooms in Tokyo and Yokohama, and a new brewery that distributes to selected international craft beer-loving markets. “You know how they say, ‘If you build it, they will come?’ Well, we built it, and very few people came,” Baird recalls, struggling the first few years in Numazu before expanding to Tokyo. Business took off in 2003. They continued to brew out of Shizuoka while sending their bottled beers first to the city, then nationwide and eventually overseas. In 2005, they expanded to a thousandliter brewery. Growing while maintaining quality, integrity and trust with craft beer enthusiasts is a balancing act, but Bryan and the Baird family manage to stay true to their core values while keeping deep roots in Shizuoka where Baird Beer was born. “Rural Japan is aging, it’s de-populated,” Bryan says. In 2014, after being courted by the Izu City government, Baird

moved south into the beautiful Izu Peninsula to Shuzenji, a hot spring resort town on the way to southern Izu’s famous white-sand beaches and surf breaks. Shuzenji is now home to Baird Beer’s impressive new brewery (although they kept the original taproom in Numazu), and locals are thrilled to see them building their business here. Perhaps most striking about the Baird Brewery is the zero-waste approach they have taken to the brewing process. Spent grain, hops and yeast are brought to mulch facilities. Ingredients are locally and organically grown without pesticides from neighboring farmland and orchards. Ten percent of the electricity comes from solar panels, and Baird hopes to one day run completely off the grid. They’ve also built a wastewater treatment facility. After treatment, the water is cleaner than the clear nearby river water. This water will also be used for irrigation in the future and, as part of the “One Percent for the Planet” initiative, Baird Brewery donates to the National Conservation Society of Japan for every bottle of Shuzenji Heritage Helles sold. “Beer is about agriculture,” says Baird. “It’s tied to the land and nature, because that’s where it’s from. Our goal is to create minimally processed beer in a beautiful place while enhancing the environment and making intimate connections.” Standing on the banks of Kano River, the brewery is flanked by hills, rice paddies and a quiet village. Originally a KOA Campground, the land around the brewery will soon offer camping and cabins for craft beer friends old and new who want to visit the brewery and the on-site Shuzenji Gardens Taproom. If you’d like to take a brewery tour, finishing off with a fresh pint of beer at the taproom (or a few bottles to take home), tours are available daily, but check the website for times. If you have enjoyed Baird for years, as you walk along the hallway, you’ll see the familiar artwork designed for Baird beer labels by Eiko Nishida, an artist and family friend. “We have different artwork for all our beers,” Sayuri Baird points out. “All our beers have a different style and history we want to share with our customers. The artwork helps get them interested.” Today, the Japan beer scene is facing a new boom. There are still fewer than 2,000 licensed craft breweries in Japan, but craft beer pubs are growing as Japanese beer drinkers get a taste for the good stuff. ✀ AUTUMN 2016

23


Baird Beer By Bryan Harrell

S

oon after Baird Beer was founded, it rapidly established a reputation as one of the best microbreweries in Japan. Not only was the beer line-up of very high quality, but also the original selection of six year-round beers had two slightly unusual twists in the form of Red Rose Amber Ale and Angry Boy Brown. Red Rose Amber Ale is aged for a while at lower temperatures, giving it a distinctive crisp and dry character. Angry Boy Brown Ale’s strong malt character and riot-like hop profile compete for your attention as they

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highlight the original interplay between malt sweetness and hop bitterness. Both beers remained my favorite until the addition of Suruga Bay Imperial IPA to the selection some years later. Personally, these three beers all offer tons of character, yet are distinctively different in terms of style and flavors. At present, the year-round selection has increased to 12 beers, including a low-alcohol “session ale,” a wheat ale, two lagers and a Japanese Pale Ale. Along with this growing number of year-round brews, Baird has kept busy by brewing a surprising variety of

interesting special edition beers which change with the seasons. Their seasonal brewing is organized into four series; the monthly style series, the fruitful life series, the brewer’s passion series and the four seasons series. In the monthly style series, favorites include Ganko Oyaji Barley Wine, Brewer’s Nightmare Rye IPA and Four Sisters Spring Bock. In the fruitful life series, The Carpenter’s Mikan Ale is perhaps the most famous fruit beer and should not be missed, while Temple Garden Yuzu Ale and Japan Tale Ale (with ume) are worthy of note. The four season’s beers include the highly recommended


From the Fish Market to the World Market

Saison Sayuri in Spring and the Yabai-Yabai Strong Scotch Ale in the fall. The brewer’s passion series is perhaps the hardest to catch, so to keep pace with releases, you should subscribe to the Baird Beer Voice newsletter. . It is both the tremendous variety of Baird Beer and its overall high level of quality that truly sets it apart from most other craft beer in Japan. While a few brewers offer some beers that approach Baird standards, it cannot be said for their entire line. Those living in Tokyo and Yokohama can drink Baird at one of the Baird Taprooms. Plus, no matter where you live in

Japan, it is easy to order Baird Beer for home delivery, either by Yahoo Shopping or Rakuten. For details, and to sign up for the newsletter, check the Baird website at www.bairdbeer.com.

Baird Taprooms Baird’s original Fishmarket Taproom (and site of the original brewery) is in the sleepy fishing town of Numazu in Shizuoka. Since then, they have opened taprooms in NakaMeguro and Harajuku in Tokyo, Bashamichi in Yokohama and at their new brewery in Shuzenji in Shizuoka. Their

newest taproom recently opened in Takadanobaba. The taprooms offer fresh, minimally processed craft cuisine, with each focusing on a unique take on delicious meats to pair with their great beers. The Takadanobaba Taproom specializes in kushiage (skewers of fried meat and vegetables), while the Harajuku Taproom’s specialty is yakitori. The Naka-Meguro Taproom offers New Haven-style pizza, while the Yokohama Taproom specializes in traditional American-style barbecue. For details and locations. visit www.bairdbeer.com/en/tap/index.html

AUTUMN 2016

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THE RECKLESS OPTIMIST’S NEXT PHASE

AN INTERVIEW WITH

TRAVIS RICE むンタビュヌ トラビス・ラむス 無鉄砲なオプティミストによる新次元の映画 By Gardner Robinson

“Once Travis has an idea in his head, it’s really hard for him to let it go,” understates one of his cohorts in “The Fourth Phase.” Travis Rice’s new film recently premiered in Tokyo to a packed house. The film charts the hydrological cycle across the Pacific Ocean to Japan and beyond and marks the next step in filmmaking for him and his Brain Farm crew, which follows the tracks laid by “The Art of Flight,” and then turns inward. 「䞀床やるっおトラビスが心に決めたら、止めるこずはだれにもできないね」 ̶『 The Fourth Phase 』 で、圌の仲間の蚀葉。 トラビス・ラむスの新䜜映画のプレミアが満垭になった東京の劇堎でおこなわれた。 この映画が描こうずしたテヌマは倪平掋の氎埪環だ。前䜜『 The Art of Flight 』 から倧きな飛躍を遂げた トラビス・ラむスに今の心境や圌の撮圱クルヌ、Brain Farmに぀いおむンタビュヌを詊みた。

RIDER: TRAVIS RICE IN JACKSON PHOTO: TIM ZIMMERMAN / RED BULL CONTENT POOL

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“LIFE IS WATER DANCING TO THE TUNE OF SOLIDS. WITHOUT THAT DANCE, THERE COULD BE NO LIFE.”

— GERALD H. POLLACK, THE FOURTH PHASE OF WATER: BEYOND SOLID, LIQUID, AND VAPOR

AUTUMN 2016

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“I HAVE NOT FIGURED OUT HOW  TO SEPARATE RECKLESS  OPTIMISM FROM A HEALTHY  APPETITE TO PURSUE  SOMETHING UNTIL  IT BECOMES IMPOSSIBLE.”  — TRAVIS RICE G Your dad was ski patrol in Jackson Hole growing up, so when did you first strap in sideways? T Actually, I think it was my mom who took me skiing first, but my dad was ski patrol there, and I grew up skiing. I was 12 or 13 when I started snowboarding. I always consider myself a skier at heart; that’s how I learned to look at the mountain. For me, skiing or snowboarding, it really doesn’t matter. Personally I just much prefer snowboarding. I have more fun doing it; just that aesthetic of a turn. I think that’s really the biggest thing, the root of why I snowboard instead of ski, the nuanced beauty of the art of the turn. You can spend your lifetime working on the transition from heelside to toeside on a snowboard. I love it. You can put in a lot of effort and fine tune your ski turn, but it’s just too easy on skis. G Back in 2003 I remember seeing you atop the podium, spraying the crowd at the Tokyo Dome, thinking, “This kid is having a good time.” T Yeah, the Tokyo Dome Big Air contest (in 2003) was my first trip to Japan. I think I won it with a double back or something. Those events were fun. I was underaged, like 19 or 20, and going over to Japan in the very beginning was insane. It was amazing. Then, when I finally got to go ride the mountains in Japan, it blew my mind. Over the last 10 years, I’ve gone up to the north island a lot. Hit all the main resorts and did a lot of

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roadside backcountry hiking. I know there’s so much we haven’t seen or touched up there, but it was a blast. Since then, I’m definitely into the 20s or so as far as trips to Japan.

the North Pacific. We were just following the natural energy cycle, and its first stop really was Japan. What’s important to you when choosing your crew? I think it mostly comes down to trying to align with people who are down with a mission and will bring optimism. Inevitably it’s always a set-up; you go somewhere, bring your own expectations, you think you have an idea of what you want to do but then the minute you get there everything changes, so trying to work with people who are able to ride in a lot of different conditions, sub-par conditions, people who are able to make the most of any situation. G

Why was Japan such an important part of your latest film, “The Fourth Phase?” T I knew I wanted to shoot in Japan early on. Years ago, we did a Japan segment in “The Community Project,” and at the time I felt it was one of the better Japan segments ever captured. Going back to Japan, we really wanted to do it justice, spend the time and effort to bring a legitimate representation of the riding over there, the culture, the landscape; you’ve been over there for a long time, it’s a special place. What I really like about it is you kind of get out of it what you put into it. It’s not really set up to just come and have everything at your fingertips. We really had to put in the time and effort to capture what we got. We wanted to do a little more, but it’s nice to leave something on the table as well. The film is about water, the relationship to water and the hydrological processes that bring our weather to North America. It’s funny because Japan is on the other side of the Pacific, but it’s an essential part of the process. We wanted to follow the North Pacific Gyre, and one of the main currents is the Kuroshio. The gyre has all that heat energy as it travels west across the Pacific, then hits a bank and gets thrust north, barrels into Japan and continues to G

T

G Instead of Hokkaido, this time you spent all your time in the Japan Alps. Why is that? T I did so much research on the mountains down there and, in this day and age with all the tools at your fingertips, it didn’t take long to figure out the lay of the land. I realized pretty quickly just how big and aggressive some of the mountains were down in Nagano Prefecture, which is where we spent most of our time for the new film. It was just on a whole other level, getting to experience and ride that terrain. We spent a fair amount of time in the Hakuba Valley. So many resorts have great access, but we ventured out too, we did some driving, some exotic roadside hiking and did a couple of big missions to some really incredible, straight-up peaks that reminded me of Alaska-style terrain.


AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE

RIDER: MARK LANDVIK PHOTOS: MIKE YOSHIDA

ガヌドナヌ・ロビン゜ン 以䞋 G  君のお父さんはゞャク

きたした。ほずんどのリゟヌトに行ったし、ロヌドサむドのバッ

゜ン・ホヌルのスキヌパトロヌルだったんだよね。スノヌ

クカントリヌもたくさんやった。ただたくさん開拓の䜙地は残

ボヌドずの出䌚いはい぀

されおいるのを知っおいるけど、ずにかく楜しかったな。もう

スキヌを母芪が教えおくれたの トラビス・ラむス 以䞋 T 

20回か、それくらい日本には来おいたす。

が最初です。父芪はそこのスキヌパトロヌルで働いおいた した。スノヌボヌディングをはじめたのは12か13歳かな。今 もスキヌダヌずしおの意識は垞に持ち぀づけおいたすよ。

G 新䜜『 The Fourth Phase 』では日本が重芁な舞台に

なっおいるけど、それはなぜ

぀たりスキヌダヌずしお山から孊びたしたから。がくにずっお

T 日本は圓初からシュヌトしたいず思っおいたんです。数

はスキヌもスノヌボヌドも関係はないんですが、正盎な気

幎前に䜜った 『 The Community Project 』では日本のパヌト

持ちずしおはスノヌボヌディングなんですね。このタヌンの

を蚭けたんです。圓時ずしおは、それたでに日本で䜜られ

矎孊に匷く魅力を感じおいたす。スキヌよりもスノヌボヌド

た映像のなかでもより良いものず感じおいたした。でも今

を遞ぶ根本的な原因はそこにあるずいっおいいです。この

回、ふたたび日本にやっおきおがくたちは時間ず努力を惜

タヌンの繊现な矎しさは、 ぀たりアヌトなんです。぀たりヒヌ

したずに、ここの文化や自然、そしおラむディングを偏るこ

ルサむドからトゥサむドぞのトランゞション 切り替えこそが

ずなく衚珟しようず思ったんです。あなたはもう長く日本に

かたよ

スノヌボヌドの栞心で、それがすばらしいんです。スキヌで

䜏んでいるから、その意味が理解できるず思う。だから、た

もタヌンに磚きをかけるこずは面癜いけど、スノヌボヌドに

だ日本にやっおきお、なんでもかんでも自分たちの郜合に

比べるず優しいんです。

合わせようずするのでなく、時間ず努力を惜したないで蚘録 しおいく、ずいうやり方で仕事を進めたした。じ぀はもっず

G 2003幎に東京ドヌムの舞台で、あなたが芳衆に向かっ

撮圱したいずいう気持ちもあったんだけど、でも少しはなに

おスプレヌをアピヌルしおいたこずを思い出したす。 “こい

かをテヌブルに残しおおくこずも倧切だず感じたした。

぀楜しんでいるな”っお思いたした。

この映画は氎に぀いお䜜りたした。氎ず北アメリカの気

T そうなんですかあの東京ドヌム・ビッグ゚アヌ・コンテス

候にもたらす倧気の埪環がテヌマなんです。でも面癜いな

トは日本ぞの最初の旅でした。たしかダブルバックかなに

ず思ったのは、倪平掋をはさんで反察偎にある日本が倧埪

かで勝ったんですよね。あのむベントは楜しかった。ただ未

環の重芁な圹割を担っおいたこずに気づいたこずなんです。

成幎で19か20 歳だったず思いたす。あの幎什で日本を䜓

がくたちは北倪平掋旋回 北倪平掋の海流の総称 ã‚’è¿œ

隓するなんお驚きばかりだった。それから日本の山も滑っ

跡しおみたいず思いたした。この旋回の倧きな海流のひず぀

お感激したんです。それから10幎くらい北海道に䜕床も行

が黒朮です。この海流は暖かい゚ネルギヌを持っおいお、 AUTUMN 2016

29


“LET THE FIRE BURN.” — TRAVIS RICE

I was pretty blown away by how vast and aggressive the terrain is in the Japanese Alps. You’re looking up at peaks, and it’s like Alaska seeing all kinds of amazing stuff that looks ridable, but it’s 70 percent death defying; only a small percentage really goes. There’s a ton of terrain traps, some of the most terrain trapped mountains I’ve ridden, and just how some of those massive mountains and drainages work, you got to be on it. You really have to be on it to ride here. You get so much snow, and the weather changes all the time. It can be as good as it gets, but you have to work for it, you have to earn it. G Were there any specific challenges you faced filming in Japan? T We worked with so many good people. We did all this night shooting, and the resorts graciously allowed us to shoot, but there were all these rules and regulations. They’d be super helpful one day, but the next day we couldn’t get any help at all. It was always this funny dance. They wanted to help us out, but they had no idea how to deal with a crew as big as ours and our demands. I think at times they got a bit overwhelmed by our massive production. It got pretty adventurous for Jared Slater, our aerial filmer. He was trying to communicate with our helicopter pilot who didn’t speak any English. They came up with six or seven key words. It is pretty difficult to capture snowboarding with normal communication, but on top of that, this guy had

30

T R AV E L E R

a little speaker in his helicopter just pumping electronic dance music while we were filming. Other than that, I actually enjoyed getting lost in Japan’s backroads, finding myself in a wasabi farm. It was snowing, and all these guys are working in the river. I’ve been to Japan so many times, but I still constantly stumble across things that are so foreign to me. How did you and Shin (Biyajima) hook up? I knew Shin a little bit early on, but it’s funny because where I really met Shin, and where he made a strong impression on me, was in Jackson Hole. I sledded back to a secret zone way deep in the Jackson backcountry to some freeriding. I got out there and followed some snowmobile tracks figuring it’s just some snowmobilers. I get way back in there and come around the corner and see two snowboard tracks and am like, holy s**t, there’re some people riding back here. I’d never seen anyone else riding back there, and it turned out to be Shin, his buddy from Jackson and Lance Pitman. There’s this one cliff that’s pretty big, but had a fairly flat landing. I was thinking there’s no way you can land off that, but when I went back around and watched him do this line, he came down, aired this little cliff and lined up for the big one, and I was like, no way, and watched him air, kick out this massive method and then stomp the s**t out of it. I was like, who the f**k is this guy! G T

Shin rides down with this big ol’ Japanese grin and giggle and I’m like what? Two years later, when I started planning the trip, I knew Shin was from the Hakuba area, and I didn’t want to come film in Japan without a Japanese rider. Shin had the time and availability, and it worked out perfect. G You guys swung through Nozawa Onsen for Dosojin Matsuri. What were your impressions of the fire festival? T I really appreciated the genuine honesty of it. I’m not sure how pumped the locals are that the cat is out of the bag, widely covered with all the foreigners showing up, and it’s probably not going to help us putting a bit into our film, but I thought it was incredible and really appreciated seeing people getting some emotions off their chest. I didn’t fully comprehend everything that was going on, but you had a sense this was a night when people were not leaving anything on the table, a night to get the skeletons out of your closet and move forward. I really liked that aspect of it. G For the men of the village, if it’s their year, it’s one of the biggest nights of their lives. The village is talking about cracking down on buses coming in just for the festival, which is probably a good idea. Jimmy (Chin) had his hands full trying to direct things once you all entered the mayhem. T The timing worked out great because Jimmy only had


AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE

“JAPAN IS THE SNOWIEST PLACE ON EARTH.” — TRAVIS RICE

RIDER: SHIN BIYAJIMA PHOTO: MIKE YOSHIDA

倪平掋を西に向かっお流れおいたす。そしお海底に圓たっ

ピヌクを芋䞊げるずびっくりするくらいラむダブルな感じで、たる

そのほかでは、抜け道を間違えお迷っお、ワサビ畑に出

お北に向きを倉えお日本を通過し、北倪平掋ぞず向かうんで

でアラスカでした。でも倧事故が起こる確率は70くらいはあ

くわしたした。雪が降っおいたのですが、蟲家の人がなん

すね。がくたちはこの倧自然の海流サむクルを远跡しようず

りそうで、可胜性がありそうなのはほんのわずかだったんです。

ず川の䞭で蟲䜜業をしおいたんです。日本にはもう䜕床も

思い、その最初の行き先が日本だったずいうわけなんです。

テラン・トラップ 雪厩の匕き金は無数にあっお、いく぀

来おいたすが、そのたびに新たに驚かされお異囜にいるん

かは、がくがか぀お滑っおきた危険なテラン・トラップのあ

だず気づかされたす。

あんぶ

G 補䜜クルヌの人遞は重芁だったのではないですか

る山のようでした。そんな巚倧な山の鞍 郚がどう圱響する

T そうですね。けっきょくは協調性を持ち、ミッションに楜

か、危険なのは承知でも挑戊しなければならないですから

芳的な空気を持ち蟌める人ずいうこずになりたした。この

ね。雪の量は半端じゃないし、倩気は目たぐるしく倉化す

T 慎のこずは以前からちょっず知っおいたんですよ。でも

仕事は぀ねに準備が぀きたずうし、期埅しおいたこずが突

る。事故は芚悟のうえでやり遂げなければならないんです。

面癜いのは、圌から匷い印象を受けたのは、じ぀はゞャク ゜ン・ホヌルだったんです。あるずきフリヌラむディングの

然すべお倉わっおしたうこずもしばしばだから、さたざたなコ ンデション、぀たり䞍良な状況䞋でも察応できお、そしおや り遂げられる人が必芁だったんです。

G 矎谷島慎ずはどう぀ながったのですか

G 日本での撮圱で、ほかに䜕か倉わったチャレンゞはし

たしたか T がくたちはたくさんの良い人たちず出䌚い仕事ができた

ためにゞャク゜ンのバックカントリヌのシヌクレットゟヌンに 行ったんです。そこはすごくディヌプな堎所で、 がくはスノヌ モバむラヌたちの航跡をたどっおいったんですよ。そこから

G 今回は北海道ではなく日本アルプスで倚くの時間を費

した。たずえば倜の撮圱をしたんですが、リゟヌト偎も奜意

戻る途䞭にコヌナヌを回ったら、ふた぀のスノヌボヌドのト

やしたけれど、その理由は

的に蚱可しおくれたした。でもルヌルや芏則を守らなけれ

ラックを芋぀けたんです。 「マゞかよ」ここで滑っおるや぀

T がくは山の調査を念密におこなったんです。今はコン

ばならなかったんです。圌らは、初日はすごく手䌝っおくれ

らがいるっお驚きたした。がくはこのあたりでスノヌボヌダヌ

ピュヌタヌで容易に地勢などを知るこずができたすから。そ

たんですが、翌日になるず党然手䌝っおくれなくなりたした。

を芋たこずがなかったんです。それが慎ず圌のゞャク゜ン出

れで長野県に倧きくおアグレッシブな山があるっおこずにす

圌らは手䌝いたかったのですが、がくたちの倧きな芁求に

身の友人ランス・ピットマンだったんですよ。

ぐに気づきたした。だから今回の撮圱では長野に滞圚す

どう答えおいいかわからなかったんですよ。たぶんがくたち

るこずが倚くなったんです。その山々での経隓は新たな基

の途方もない撮圱方法に戞惑ったんだず思いたす。

そこにはけっこう倧きな厖があっお、ランディングがフラッ トなんです。だからちょっずお勧めできないんだけど、でも

準ずなりたしたね。

゚アリアル専門のフィルマヌ、ゞャレド・スレヌタヌにずっ

圌は飛んだんです。 「えヌ、マゞ」っお感じで、マッシブなメ

がくたちは癜銬山麓で倚くの時間を費やしたした。アクセ

おは新たな挑戊だったず思いたす。ヘリコプタヌのパむロッ

゜ッドからストンプたで決めたした。 「このすげえや぀はいっ たい誰だ」っお叫びたしたよ。滑っおきた慎を芋たら、普

スにも䟿利なリゟヌトもたくさんあったし、冒険もいろいろや

トが英語を話せなくお、しかたないから6぀か7぀の䜿える

りたした。運転しお゚キゟチックなロヌドサむドのハむキングも

単語を教えたした。でも普通に英語を話せなくおは、スノヌ

通の日本人らしくニコニコ笑っおいるじゃないですか「えっ、

したし、垂盎登坂でいく぀かの峰を登頂するずいうすごいこ

ボヌドを撮るのはかなり困難です。そのうえ、 ヘリにはスピヌ

こい぀なの」っお感じでしたね。

ずもやりたした。それでアラスカの経隓を思い出したしたね。

カヌが取り付けおあっお、パむロットはがくたちの撮圱䞭に

それで2 幎埌にこのトリップを蚈画しおいるずき、日本人

日本アルプスの山々のアグレッシブさには驚嘆したした。

テクノ・ダンスの曲をかけお螊っおいたんです。

ラむダヌをぜったい䜿おうっお決めおいお。癜銬゚リアに AUTUMN 2016

31


RIDER: TRAVIS RICE PHOTO: MIKE YOSHIDA

“HE BECAME THE RIDER I ENVISIONED I COULD BE.” — BRYAN IGUCHI

32

T R AV E L E R


 AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE

AUTUMN 2016

33


“DISCOVERY CONSISTS OF SEEING WHAT EVERYBODY HAS SEEN AND THINKING WHAT NOBODY HAS THOUGHT.”

— GERALD H. POLLACK, THE FOURTH PHASE OF WATER: BEYOND SOLID, LIQUID, AND VAPOR

two months to spend with us at the beginning. It was nice to have some of his direction. He’s such an international celebrity these days, he didn’t have the bandwidth to solely direct the project, so we were pumped with the amount of time Jimmy had to put into it. He spent some time in Russia with us as well. How many GoPros did you guys destroy? We destroyed or lost a lot of GoPros but got a lot of incredible POV footage. In the beginning, some of the camera systems we were using were so new they weren’t on the market yet and had Beta software. We had a lot of challenges getting camera systems to work that were experimental. I’ve got to give a lot of credit to the crew who spent so much time and effort getting it right. G T

G Weather being a central theme, I guess it’s fitting you had a lot thrown at you. T Pretty much everywhere we went we had crazy weather. I think Russia was probably one of the toughest places for us weatherwise, but even Alaska, the last three years have been somewhat subpar when you look at historically how Alaska can shape up. We had challenges the whole way through, but if it was easy, everyone would be doing it, right? G People might be surprised to hear you spend a lot of time on the water, but what drew you to sailing?

34

T R AV E L E R

T My dad really wanted to learn how to sail and, when I was 16, he became a quarter partner in this small, 24-foot trimaran. Three weeks a year, I’d go with him and we’d sail from Florida out around the Bahamas. I did that for a bunch of years and, in the meantime, I was picking up surfing, which I also fell in love with. Then I was like, man, to combine the two would be perfect. I find I enjoy myself most on those days when it’s just me and a couple close friends away from it all. True human interaction in a day when we are all spread so thin. Over the past six years, my girlfriend and I live on our boat two or three months a year. It’s just one of our seasonal homes at this point.

Do you find similarities between being deep in the mountains and the sea? T Being out on the ocean seems like a different world to being in the mountains and the backcountry, but there is also a lot of symmetry. They each have their own biorhythms from a motherly embrace to tempestuous wrath. What I love about being out in nature is that you are at the mercy of your own decision making. G

proud of them all. We couldn’t have done this film without the other films pre-dating it and being part of the process. We needed to do “Community Project” to feel comfortable doing our own thing, and then “That’s It That’s All” was this experiment with camera technology and shooting snowboarding a little differently. “Art of Flight” was that dream of “That’s it That’s All” realized. Then we didn’t want to make an “Art of Flight 2,” so we stepped back and tried to take a different approach to create a more multi-faceted film. “The Fourth Phase” has more of a storyline, and it was much more personal for me. It’s probably the most personal project I’ve done, which changed the dynamic a little bit. Plus we were involving more than just snowboarding in the project. We were looking at weather and our relationships with weather. It goes to a few other places, and I don’t want to spoil anything, so I won’t go into it, but it’s about a willingness to expose oneself a little bit more and share something openly and honestly. It’s more than just landing tricks. Moving forward, this is just another stepping stone
 And what is next? What’s next? I don’t know. Right now, I’m really interested in revamping the Supernatural contest, so I’m going to put a lot of effort and energy into that going forward. The only thing I’d say is that it would be really nice to have a venue stop in Japan someday. Japan would be perfect for it. ✀ G T

G Now that “The Fourth Phase” is in the books, do you look back at your past films any differently? T They were all just chapters in the book, stepping stones. Each was perfect for where we were at the time, and I’m


AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE

The exclusive premier of“The Fourth Phase”is set for Oct. 2 at 8:30 p.m. on Redbull TV (www.redbull.tv). You can pre-order the film on Blueray DVD or digital download from www.thefourthphase. com. Snowboarders and action film aficionados will want to grab a limited edition (only 3,000 printed, US$145) of the large-format s for sale book published with selected images from the film. It’ at Asymbol (www.asymbol.co), Travis’art gallery for action sports artists and photographers. Copies are limited and will sell out long before Christmas.

TRAVIS HONING HIS FILLETING SKILLS AT TSUKIJI MARKET. PHOTO: JASON HALAYKO / RED BULL CONTENT POOL

むンフォメヌション『The Fourth Phase』の独占䞊映は 10月2日8:30pmにRedbull TVwww.redbull.tvで䞊映。Blueray、DVD、そしおデゞタル・ダりンロヌドの先行予玄は www.thefourthphase.com. リミテッド゚ディションが写真集 付きで3,000郚のみ限定販売される。興味のある方はwww.

asymbol.co

G 山や海の奥深くに自分自身を眮くこずに共通点は感じ

たすか T 倧海原に出るこずず、山でのバックカントリヌを衚珟す

るには違う蚀葉が必芁でしょう。でも察象ずしお比べるず、 調和する点はたくさんあるず思いたす。それぞれが母性的 な包容力や、ずきには激しい激怒ず衚珟できるような固有 TRAVIS RICE SAILING IN TAHITI PHOTO: TIM MCKENNA / RED BULL CONTENT POOL

LEARNING THE JAPANESE ART OF “SHODO” PHOTO: JASON HALAYKO / RED BULL CONTENT POOL

のバむオリズムを持っおいたすね。それらはがくにずっお自 然の持぀魅力でもありたす。

慎がいるこずを知っおいたから、慎も時間を合わせおくれ

られないようなPOVフッテヌゞを残すこずができたした。いく

G 新䜜『 The Fourth Phase 』が新刊ずなった珟圚、これた

お、パヌフェクトでした。

぀かの最新のカメラシステムも今回は䜿甚したした。それ

での䜜品ず比べお䜕か違いはありたすか

G 野沢枩泉の同祖神祭も芋お回りたしたが、どんな印象

を受けたしたか T あの玔真さには倧いに玍埗するものがありたした。地

はただ垂堎には出おいないんです。Beta゜フトりェアも䜿

T それぞれの䜜品がひず぀の章で段階を远っおいるんで

いたしたね。カメラシステムを䜿う実隓的な詊みもあったの

す。䜜品が䜜られた時点ではパヌフェクトでした。がくは䜜品

です。撮圱クルヌたちはその機材を䜿うために倚くの劎力

すべおに誇りを持っおいたす。今回の映画は以前に䜜られ

を泚ぎ蟌みたした。

た䜜品があったからこそ完成するこずができんだず思いたす。

元の人々の興奮ず、それを取り巻く倖囜の人々の光景に

『 Community Project 』はがくたちがやっおいるこずを気

はどう説明しおいいかわかりたせんでした。撮圱したものを

G 気候が䞭心的なテヌマずなったこずは、あなたにずっお

がくたちの映画にどのように䜿えばよいかはわかりたせん

倧きな意矩があったのではないでしょうか

All 』はカメラのテクノロゞヌの経隓を積むこずず、テむスト

が、でもすごいなず思いたしたし、人々のほずばしる情熱に

T 倧いにありたしたね。いろいろな堎所でクレむゞヌな気

の違うスノヌボヌディングの撮圱をしたかったんです。 『 Art

s It That ’ s 持ちよく衚珟させるために必芁でした。 『 That ’

は玍埗させられたした。

候ず出䌚いたした。ロシアはその点に぀いおはタフな堎所

of Flight 』は『 That ’ s it That ’ s All 』から気づいた次の倢な

その祭りをすべお理解しおいるわけではありたせんが、

のひず぀でした。アラスカもおなじです。アラスカは歎史を

は䜜りたくなかったから、 ちょっ んです。でも 『 Art of Flight 2 』 ず埌戻りしお違うアプロヌチで倚角的な映画を撮るのを詊

倜な倜な、人々が人目をはばからずに祭りに興じる姿はす

振り返れば過去 3 幎間、基準以䞋だったずいえたす。でも

ばらしいず思いたす。

がくたちはあえおその困難に挑戊したした。逆に考えれば、 しおみたくなりたした。 『 The Fourth Phase 』はもっずストヌ

G 村の幎男の男衆にずっおその祭りは、圌らの人生なか

簡単なこずはだれにでもできるんですからね。

でも重芁な倜ずなるんです。倧隒ぎのために村は取締り のバスを甚意しようずも話しおしおいたす。たぶん効果は あるでしょう。ゞミヌ・チンも祭りに参加しお圧倒されたよ

リヌ性があっお個人的な思いが匷いです。もっずもパヌ゜ ナルなプロゞェクトずしお方向性を少し倉曎したんです。

G 人々はあなたが氎海で過ごしたず知れば驚くのでは

ないでしょうか、セヌリングに惹かれた理由は

぀たりこのプロゞェクトではスノヌボヌディングよりもさらに 芖野を広げ、気候に泚目したした。気候ずがくたち人間ず

T 父は本気でセヌリングを習いたくお、がくが16 歳のずき、

の関係性ですね。これはランディング・トリックよりも重芁な

T そんなこずがあったんですか。ゞミヌは2ヶ月ほどがくたち

圌が24フィヌト・トリマランのパヌトナヌオヌナヌになりたし

テヌマですし、次の段階に進むための垃石でもあるんです。

ずいっしょだったんです。圌の助けは圹に立ちたした。圌

た。1幎のうち3週間は、がくは父ずフロリダからバハマ諞島

うでした。

はいたでは囜際的に有名になっお忙しくお、プロゞェクトに

ぞセヌリングに出かけたした。䜕幎もその旅を぀づけおサヌ

関わる時間があたりなかったんです。それでも圌が参加し

フィンも䜓隓し、倧奜きになりたした。だから、セヌリングず

T 次今はただ考えおないですね。ずいうのもスヌパヌナチュ

おくれお興奮したした。圌はロシアでもいっしょでしたよ。

サヌフィンの組み合わせはパヌフェクトなんです。近しい友

ラル・コンテストのこずで頭が䞀杯なんです。これに努力ず゚

人たちずの航海は楜しいんです。真の人間関係が築けた

ネルギヌを費やしお成功させたいず思っおいたす。い぀か日

G 次は䜕か考えおいたすか

G 撮圱でゎヌプロはいく぀壊れたしたか

す。ここ6幎間ほど、私はガヌルフレンドず毎幎2カ月から3カ

本でこのコンテストを開催しおみたいですね。日本はこのコン

T たくさん壊れたりなくしたりしたしたね。でもおかげで信じ

月ほどボヌトで暮らすんです。恒䟋行事になっおいたすね。

テストには最高の堎所になるだろうず思っおいたすよ。✀ AUTUMN 2016

35


MIYAKOJIMA

Miyako Magic 宮叀マゞック

Below the ocean surface lies a landscape littered with patches of coral reef, sandy areas and nudibranchs that light up against torches. Huge rocky structures with tunnels and arches plummet into the depths, the sunbeams streaming through them. Bonnie Waycott dives into a world of colorful marine life and limestone as she visits Okinawa's Miyakojima. ここの氎面䞋には珊瑚や砂地、 そしお束明に反射しお光る 裞鰓類でちりばめられた景色がある。 トンネルやアヌチを描く倧きな岩が奥深くに腰を据え、 そのあいだから倪陜の光が茝いおいる。

ボニヌ・りェむコットは、沖瞄の宮叀島を蚪ね、 色ずりどりの海掋生物ず石灰岩の䞖界に朜っおいった。

36

T R AV E L E R


AUTUMN 2016

37

BONNIE WAYCOTT

BONNIE WAYCOTT

DIVE KIDS


M

DIVE KIDS

any moons ago, the ocean worked its magic on Miyakojima, creating a haven of tunnels, arches and swim-throughs. During the summer, divers come to the island in droves for a glimpse of these limestone formations. It is 300 kilometers southwest of Okinawa's main island, and diving off Miyakojima is a journey into a world of colossal structures, a series of rocky outcrops and winding horizontal tunnels that open onto sandy areas or smaller coral reefs. Inhabited by some of the area's most vibrant creatures, the mixture of underwater topography, blue water and colorful reefs are a viable alternative to some of Okinawa's busier locations.

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T R AV E L E R

Nakanoshima Channel With a 14-meter deep seabed and a collection of mediumsized boulders to start the dive, Nakanoshima Channel is ideal for spotting all manner of marine life. A narrow arch takes you down to around 18 meters, where it's clear this is a haven for a good range of fish and other critters. Around the rocky structures are schools of red soldier fish with huge black eyes, juvenile bi-color parrotfishes hovering gently close by and, as the seabed is sandy, it's possible to lie on the sand and watch tiny jawfish peering out from their lairs, waiting patiently for divers to move on or immediately disappearing if so inclined. This dive has a maximum depth of around 20 meters and offers a leisurely drift over a few sandy areas interspersed between rocky structures. Close by is the entrance to a small tunnel with promises of close encounters with a variety of smaller critters. Don't forget to use a flashlight when examining the


Miyako Magic rocky walls for vibrant sponges, corals, fans and even some urchins. More observant divers will notice the odd leaf scorpion fish or two tucked into the holes and hollows. As the dive draws to a close, a tiny bit of surge spits divers out of the tunnel to the other side, marking the start of a fun ascent with a range of colorful nudibranchs sticking to their rocky homes.

Hon Drop

Mini Grotto Mini Grotto is the perfect place to experience Miyakojima's rocky structures and tunnels in all their glory. While the miniature life is outstanding here, most divers visit for the tunnels, rocks and swim-throughs. A sloping seabed covered with boulders leads toward the deeper depths while turtles graze close by, unfazed by their audience and enjoying a meal off the rocky patches. At around 15 meters is a small tunnel where divers penetrate the darkness, flashlights in hand. It's worth taking time to look at the proliferation of nudibranchs that have made this area home. Soon the swim feels like an ascent as the surface of the water approaches with the sun streaming into the exit route, creating a spectacular scene. An eerie, blue glow in the distance gets brighter and, popping up above the water and breathing in the fresh sea air, it's possible to rest awhile in a small pool of crystalclear water and marvel at the colossal rocky structures all around. The return journey starts here via the same tunnel, descending once more into the depths, so divers visiting this site must have good ear-clearing skills. It may be dark and gloomy, but the diving doesn't get much better. Soon, shoals of chromis appear in the shallows, feeding on

drifting plankton, while free-swimming stout chromis and red snapper pass slowly by.

Mao no Kyuden Jump off the boat here, and a scene of boulders and overheads unfolds, followed by a labyrinth of tunnels. With just a few more fin kicks, more walls and rock formations. An air of mystery and anticipation fills the scene at Mao no Kyuden where several large chambers and tunnels appear linked together. Although an opening is never far away, it's not hard to lose one's bearings, making navigation here slightly difficult (don't lose sight of your guide). The site's deeper spots (around 25-27 meters) make it more suitable for advanced divers, while those who may be claustrophobic might want to avoid the narrower tunnels altogether. Dropping down to about five meters, a gentle slope leads to a wall at around 18 meters. Shoaling large-scale soldier fish are everywhere, while schools of sweepers swim in and out, joined by a few other species. The highlight of this site, however, is a tiny resident candy crab at around 21 meters. Wrapped around a piece of soft coral and wary of the flashlights around him, he lights up in shades of beige and pink. Next to the candy crab's home is an entrance up a long straight tunnel through a velvety blackness. Soon the tunnel's immense beauty reveals itself as the sun penetrates through, highlighting filefish and sweepers competing with each other for space, as well as an abundance of schooling fish. A wonderland of vibrant marine life adorns the famous limestone structures of Miyakojima's unique ecosystem. This stunning underwater landscape, combined with a wide range of fish and tiny critters inhabiting the waters, makes for magical recreational diving and heaven for underwater photographers. ✀

DIVE KIDS

BONNIE WAYCOTT

DIVE KIDS

As its name suggests, this site is a daunting drop-off that rises from 35 meters to a plateau at eight meters. The dive begins down the wall to about 12 meters, where schools of reef fish mill around in the shallows, but the piÚce de résistance is a giant trevally that takes refuge in the rocky gullies and overhangs. When taking photos here, timing is crucial, as the giant trevally is gentle and shy, quickly moving away and out of sight with a flick of its tail. On good days it's possible to see three or four, but most divers are more than happy with just one. The current at this site can sometimes be mild, but this brings a range of fish to the area, while the sun bathes the area with prism-like ripples of light that skip across the rocks. This is a great site to cruise over a diverse range of marine life—it's the perfect site and amphitheater for curly anemones that house a variety of clownfish as well as the

odd black-spotted pufferfish seen finning away. Other patches close by provide some of the area's brightest sponges and nudibranchs. The fish life here may be less abundant, but the huge rocky structures keep divers entertained. It's also a good spot to enjoy relaxing macro photography.

AUTUMN 2016

39


ず

っず昔、海は宮叀島に魔法の力でトンネル

れが浅瀬でひしめき合っおいるが、" 䞻菜 "はずいうず、ゎツ

メダむの矀れが浅瀬に珟れ、流れおくるプランクトンを食

やアヌチや暪穎を぀くりあげた。倏になるず、 ゎツした小峡谷やオヌバヌハングに避難しおいるロりニン

べおいるいっぜう、かっぷくのいいスズメダむずプダむが

数倚くのダむバヌがこの石灰岩が成す自然

ゆっくりず通りすぎおいく。

の圫刻を䞀目芋ようず、この島を蚪れる。

アゞである。 ロりニンアゞは恥ずかしがり屋で、あっずいう間に姿を消

ここは沖瞄本土から玄 300km 南東にある宮叀島。ここ

しおしたうので、写真を撮る際にはタむミングが決め手だ。

魔王の宮殿

からダむビングするず、そこは巚倧な石の構造が連なる䞖

運がよければ、匹か匹、芋るこずもできるが、たいおい

ここでボヌトから飛び降りるず倧きな岩ずオヌバヌヘッドの

界ぞの旅だ。ゎツゎツずした岩が露出し、曲がりくねっおト

のダむバヌは匹だけで満足する。

景色が広がり、そこからはトンネルの迷路だ。もう少しフィ

ンネルを぀くり、そこを抜けるず砂浜や小さなサンゎ瀁に出

ここの海流は穏やかなこずもあるが、この流れに乗っお

ンをキックするず、岩壁はさらに目の前に広がる。謎の雰

くわす。

さたざたな魚が来るいっぜう、倪陜が岩に圓たっお、プリ

囲気ずワクワク感でいっぱいの魔王の宮殿は、いく぀かの

色鮮やかな海の生物たちが生息するこの堎所は、氎䞭

ズムのような光の波を螊らせる。この数倚くの海掋生物

倧きな掞窟ずトンネルが぀ながっおいるようだ。

の地圢、蒌い氎、色ずりどりのサンゎ瀁の組み合わせで、

の䞊を挫遊するのは最高だ。いろいろな皮類のクマノミを

開口郚はさほど遠くはないが、方向感芚を倱っおしたう

沖瞄の賑やかなずころずは察照的だ。

かくたっおいる觊手をクネクネさせたむ゜ギンチャクや、泳ぎ

こずもよくあるため、どこぞ進むべきかが少し難しくなる ガ

さるコクテンフグなど、ありずあらゆるショヌを目の前で繰り

むドを芋倱わないように気を぀けるこず。ここは深いずころ

広げおくれる。

になるず25  27mあり、䞊玚者ダむバヌ向けだ。閉所恐

海底の深さが14mで、ダむビングのスタヌトは、いく぀もの

ほかにも色鮮やかな海綿や裞鰓類。魚の数はさほど豊

怖症の人は狭いトンネルは䞀切避けたほうがよい。

䞭䜍の岩がある䞭ノ島チャネルは、あらゆる海掋生物を芋

富ではないかもしれないが、倧きな岩がダむバヌにずっおは

5mほどのずころぞ行くず穏やかな坂になっおおり、18m

぀けるのに最適な堎所だ。狭いアヌチをくぐるず、深さは

楜しい。たた、マクロ写真の撮圱をしながらリラックスする

のずころに壁がある。倧きめのテリ゚ビスの矀れがそこら

箄 18m 。氎が柄んでおり、魚やそのほかの生物の皮類が

にも最適だ。

じゅうにいる。ハタンポの矀れがやっおきたりむこうぞ行っ

䞭ノ島チャネル

倚い。 岩の構造の呚りには、倧きな黒い目をしたテリ゚ビスの

ミニ・グロット ミニ通り池

矀れや、未熟なむロブダむが近くでうろうろしおいる。海底

ミニ・グロットは、宮叀島の掞窟を楜しむのに最適な堎所

たりしながら、ほかの皮類の魚もそこに混じわる。 しかしながら、ここのハむラむトは、氎深21mほどのずころ に䜏んでいる小さなむ゜コンペむトりガニだ。柔らかいサン

は砂なので、暪たわっお小さなゞョヌフィッシュが、䜏凊か

だ。小さな海掋生物も楜しいが、ダむバヌはたいおい、 ト

ゎに包たれ、氎䞭ラむトに照らされるこずに甚心深く、ベヌ

ら顔を出し、ダむバヌが消えさるのをじっず埅っおいる様子

ンネルや岩や暪穎が目圓おだ。坂になった海底は、深くな

ゞュやピンクの光を攟぀。

を芋るこずができるかもしれない。

るに぀れ、岩で芆われ、ダむバヌたちが芋぀めおいおもた

む゜コンペむトりガニの䜏凊の隣には ベルベットのよう

このダむビングは、最高深床が玄 20mで、岩の合間に

るで平気な亀が岩壁で食事をしおいる。

な真っ暗なずころを通る、長くたっすぐなトンネルの入り口 がある。しばらくするずそのトンネルは、差し蟌む倪陜の光

散圚する砂地の䞊をゆっくりず揺られおいける。近くには小

15mほど朜るず、小さなトンネルがあり、そこは真っ暗な

さなトンネルの入り口があり、さたざたな極小の生き物を間

ので氎䞭ラむトは必須だ。ここを䜏凊ずしおいる裞鰓類の

でカワハギやハタンポが堎所の取り合いをしおいる姿が芋

近で芋぀けるこずができる。

増殖を、時間をかけお芋おみるのは䟡倀がある。するずた

えるほか、さたざたな魚の矀れが茝き、矎しさをかもしだす。

色鮮やかな海綿、珊瑚、りミりチワ、さらにはりニを探

もなく倪陜の光が出口を照らし、なんずもいえないほど矎し

色鮮やかな海掋生物が、宮叀島独特の゚コシステムで

すために岩壁を調べるずきは、氎䞭ラむトを䜿うこずだ。芳

く、氎面が近づいお、浮䞊しおいく感じがする。

ある有名な石灰質の岩の構造を装食するすばらしい景勝 地。この目を芋匵るような氎䞭の景色ず倚皮倚様の魚や

察の鋭いダむバヌであれば、穎やくがみに、ハダハカオコ

遠くを芋るず䞍気味な蒌い茝きがだんだん明るくなり、

れなどが隠れおいるのに気づくだろう。

氎面から出お海の空気を吞うず、柄み切った氎たたりで䌑

小さな生物たちの組み合わせで、氎䞭写真撮圱にはもっ

ダむビンが終わりに近づくず、氎の勢いでダむバヌはトン

憩しながら、呚りを囲む巚倧な岩に驚嘆するこずだろう。

ネルの向こう偎ぞ抌し出され、岩の䜏凊にぞばり぀く、色

垰りはおなじトンネルからはじたり、もう䞀床深いずころに

おこいの魅惑的なダむビングができる。✀

ずりどりの裞鰓類を芋ながら、氎面ぞの浮䞊がはじたる。

本ドロップ

朜氎するので、耳抜きによる均圧をうたくおこなえるように しなければいけない。暗くお陰気な感じがするかもしれな いが、これこそ最高のダむビングだ。そこからたもなく、スズ

名前からわかるように、この堎所は35mから mの高さにあ る台地たで、ひるむような断厖だ。ダむビングは壁の䞋から

DIVE KIDS

はじたり、玄 12mのずころぞ。そこは、リヌフフィッシュの矀

40

T R AV E L E R


Miyako Magic PRACTICALITIES Getting There: Direct flights are available from Tokyo's Haneda Airport (2 œ to 3 hours). Getting Around: Hiring a car is the best way to explore Miyakojima. Most rental firms have an outlet at Miyako Airport, and driving on the island is easy and enjoyable. Bicycles and scooters are also available for rent. Climate: Mild and sometimes rainy winters and hot summers. Average temperature is around 24 C with the highest average around 32 C in summer. Water Temperature: This varies between 22-23 C in the winter to 28-33 C in the summer. A 5-mm wetsuit is best during the summer but a 7-mm or something warmer for the winter should work well. Accommodation: This varies greatly from modest pensions and traditional Japanese inns (minshuku) to western-style business hotels and resorts that are a little bit more expensive. Additional Info: The two main dive shops on the island are Dive Kids (Web: www.divekids.jp/a/frame1.htm) and Kara Kara Sensei Diving (Web: www.cosmos.ne.jp/~karakara/). Kara Kara Sensei Diving can arrange diving and accommodation packages. Please note Dive Kids and Kara Kara Sensei Diving don't speak much English and can only answer basic English e-mail inquiries. If you don't speak Japanese and want to dive off Miyakojima, Bonnie is happy to provide information about travel details. E-mail bonniewaycott@gmail.com or visit the Rising Bubbles Facebook Page at www.facebook.com/RisingBubblesNotesOfANewDiver.

DIVE KIDS

実甚的情報 時間半から時間 行き方ノンストップ䟿は東京・矜田空枯からあり

亀通の䟿宮叀島の探怜には車のハむダヌがおすすめ。ほずんどのレンタカヌ䌚瀟は宮叀空枯に支店があり、車で島をたわるのも楜しい。 自転車やスクヌタヌもレンタルできる。

倩候穏やかで、冬は雚が倚く、倏は暑い。平均気枩は玄24℃、平均最高気枩は倏で32℃。 氎枩冬は2223℃、倏は2833℃。倏はmmのりェットスヌツ、冬はmm、たたはそれより枩かいものが最適。 宿泊 質玠なペンションから䌝統的な民宿もあれば、少し倀段の高い掋匏のビゞネスホテルやリゟヌトたでいろいろある。

KARA KARA SENSEI DIVING

その他島の䞻なダむビングショップは、ダむブキッズwww.divekids.jp/a/frame1.htmずカラカラ先生のダむビングスクヌル宮叀島 Web: www.cosmos.ne.jp/~karakara/だ。カラカラ先生ダむビングは、ダむビングず宿泊のパッケヌゞを手配しおくれる。 ※ダむブキッズもカラカラ先生ダむビングも、英語があたりできないので、英語で問い合わせる堎合、基本的なこずしか 答えられない。日本語が話せず、宮叀島でダむビングを垌望する人は、私がお手䌝いしたすので、

bonniewaycott@gmail.com 宛おにメヌルで問い合わせるか、フェむスブックで the Rising Bubbles Facebook Page www.facebook.com/RisingBubblesNotesOfANewDiver 

DIVE KIDS

BONNIE WAYCOTT

BONNIE WAYCOTT

をご芧ください。

AUTUMN 2016

41


42

T R AV E L E R


J

apan is one of the most plugged-in nations in the world. There aren’t many places in this fiber-optic country where you are truly out of touch. Even on top of iconic Mt. Fuji, you can send a post card to friends or family. So it should not be much of a surprise that many mountain huts in Japan are equipped with modern conveniences such as bathing facilities, hot meals (and cold beer), even satellite TV, computers and WiFi. Then there is Komanokoya. A rare relic that gets down to basics and is refreshingly unconnected.

日

本は時代に即した囜だ。囜内のいたるずころ

に光ファむバヌは埋蚭されおいるし、あの有名

な富士山の頂䞊からでも友達や家族にポスト

カヌドを送るこずもできる。だから日本の山小

屋の倚くでは入济ができたり枩かい食事 冷たいビヌルも

が甚意されたり、衛星テレビ、そしおコンピュヌタやWi-Fiの 蚭備たである。 ずころが䌚接駒の小屋にはそんな蚭備がたっ たくなくお奇異にさえ感じられる。むしろそれがこの小屋の魅 力だ。぀たり日々の生掻から離れ、リフレッシュできおいいの

AIZU UNPLUGGED:

KOMANOKOYA 䌚接駒ヶ岳 駒の小屋

By Pauline Kitamura 文パりリヌ・キタムラ  蚳李リョり

AUTUMN 2016

43


Located high along the ridgeline near the peak of Mt. Aizukomagatake (2,132 meters) in Fukushima Prefecture, this rustic mountain hut requires guests to leave their creature comforts at home and unplug from their hectic modern lives. The only way to get to Komanokoya is via a three-and-a-half-to-four-hour hike with an elevation gain of more than 1,100 meters. There are no cars, gondolas or motorized short cuts. Everyone who visits Komanokoya must do it the oldfashioned way, one step at a time.

The path starts off steep through a beautiful forest with occasional peek-a-boo views of the valley below. As you get closer to the top, however, it suddenly opens to sweeping mountain vistas and vast alpine meadows. From here it’s just another short climb up to Komanokoya. What makes this mountain hut special, and popular (it books out months in advance), is that it has no modern conveniences such as electricity or running water. This is a high-altitude getaway where people come to leave it all behind and bring with them what they need.

The two-story black wooden building has two large sleeping quarters upstairs and a sitting area downstairs where guests can gather and cook their own meals. There are futons and warm blankets for guests to use, so sleeping bags aren’t needed. The washrooms are located in a separate building outside of the main hut and, while primitive in terms or “technology,” they are immaculately clean with toilet paper provided. There’s no running water but rainwater is gathered and made freely available to guests (and for a small fee for

だ。その山小屋は犏島県、䌚接駒ケ岳2,132mの頂䞊に぀

森は矎しく、ずきおり枓谷を芋䞋ろすこずができる。広倧な

た぀ある。1階は居間で客たちが団欒 だんらんや食事を

づく皜線にある。蚪れた者に日垞の倚忙な日々から離れお

山の景色や草地が愛 めでるこずができるのは、頂䞊に近

぀くるずころずなっおいる。垃団やブランケットは甚意されおい

自分の家のようにく぀ろぐようにず、そこは諭 さず しおくれ

づいおきおからだ。そこから駒の小屋はすぐ近くにある。な

るから寝袋を甚意する必芁はない。掗面所は小屋から離れた ずころにある。 トむレッ トペヌパヌも甚意されおいお枅朔だ。

る。駒の小屋ぞは時間半から4時間のハむクでたどり着く

にがこの山小屋を特別なものずしお有名にしおいるのか 予

こずができる。暙高差は1,100mだ。車でも行けないしゎンド

玄は数ヶ月先たで䞀杯 。ここには近代的な蚭備もないし、

氎道は通っおいないが雚氎を集めお客が䜿えるようにし

ラやそのほかの亀通手段はなく、山道を自分の足で登るし

電気も氎道もない。近代的な日垞生掻をすべお眮き去りに

おある 日垰りの客には少しばかりの䜿甚料がかかる 。氎

かない。

しお蚪れる高地の入り口なのだ。

を沞かしたり食事に䜿ったり、翌日の登山の飲料氎ずしお

山小屋ぞ぀づく道は深い森の険しい道からスタヌトする。

黒い朚造2階建おのその小屋。2階には倧きな寝宀がふ

客はそれを利甚する。 小屋には小さな売店もあり手䜜りの

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day visitors) who can boil the water for their meals and the next day’s hike back down. There’s even a small shop inside where you can buy handmade souvenirs and crafts, unique T-shirts sold only to those who’ve made the climb up to the hut, plus snacks and drinks (beer is available during the colder seasons). The truly special moments at this mountain hut are when the sun starts to fall and darkness sets in. The only light comes from the moon and stars in the sky and the warm glow of kerosene lamps lit throughout the hut every evening.

As you watch the flames flicker, it transports you back to a much simpler and peaceful time. Your internal clock tells you to sleep when the sun sets and wake up when it rises. Sayuri and Kazuhiro Miyoshi manage Komanokoya. The warm, wonderful couple fell in love with this beautiful mountain and the simple way of life. This is their ninth season up on Mt. Aizukomagatake where they mostly live throughout the year, coming down off the mountain only once or twice a week to take a bath and resupply. They have no refrigerator, no electric stoves, no

computers, no bathtubs or showers and, of course, no TV. Food and necessities are dropped in by helicopter two to three times during a season. The rest they carry up in their backpacks. It may not be the easiest way of life, but the simplicity of not having everything at your fingertips makes it special for them and their guests. The premier hiking on this long ridgeline is famous for alpine ponds and the abundance of flowers during the summer. Once you reach Komanokoya, you’ll definitely want to take a hike up to the top of Mt. Aizukomagatake and, if

お土産やちょっずした品を買うこずができるし、ナニヌクなデ

ずずもに眠り、倜明けずずもに目を芚たすずきを告げる。ミペ

品はヘリコプタヌでシヌズン䞭に23回届けられる。残りは

ザむンのTシャツもあり、この小屋に登っおきた者だけが手に

シ・カズヒコずサナリ 挢字衚蚘がこの駒の小屋のマ

圌らが背䞭に担いで運び䞊げる。それは簡単な仕事ではな

入れられる。たた軜食や飲み物も甚意されおいる ビヌルは

ネヌゞャヌだ。心枩かいカップルはここの矎しい山に心を奪

い。郜䌚のように指先ひず぀でなんでも手に入るわけでは

寒い季節に利甚できる 。この山小屋のすばらしいひずずき

われ、シンプルラむフをたっずうしおいる。圌らが䌚接駒ケ岳

ないが、その苊圹 くえきこそがこの小屋を圌らやゲストに

は倕闇が迫った頃だ。月ず星空の䞋で灯油ランプが山小屋

に䜏むようになっお9幎になる。1幎の倧半を小屋で過ごし、

よっお特別な堎所にしおいる。長い皜線をハむクしたその先

で毎晩灯される。

週に䞀床か二床入济ず物資を運ぶために䞋山する。圌ら

には高地の倩然池ず、倏のあいだだけ咲きほこる高山怍物

ランプの炎を芋぀めおいるうちにあなたはシンプルで平和

は冷蔵庫を持っおいない。電気ストヌブもコンピュヌタも颚

がある。䞀床駒の小屋にたどり着いたら䌚接駒ケ岳を登頂

な時間に浞るこずができる。身䜓の内なる時蚈が、倕暮れ

呂もシャワヌでさえも、もちろんテレビもない。食物や必需

したくなる。もし時間に䜙裕があれば埀埩2時間のハむクで AUTUMN 2016

45


you have enough time, take a quick jaunt out to the scenic Nakamondake, about a two-hour round trip walk. (Note: In May there may still be snow on the ground, so you might want to bring some lightweight crampons and trekking poles). Be sure to wake up early to catch the sunrise from outside the hut; you won’t want to miss it. Sometimes it’s nice to have convenience right at your fingertips but, if you can let it all go, even for just a weekend, you’ll get hooked on the wonderful simplicity of the Komanokoya way of life. ✀

Hiking Route Options & Times To Komanokoya Mountain Hut •• From Komagatake trailhead: Approx. 3.5 hours •• From Kirinte trailhead: Approx. 4.5 hours •• From Ozemiike trailhead: Approx. 5.5 hours From Komanokoya Mountain Hut •• To the top of Mt. Aizukomagatake: Approx. 20 minutes (round trip approx. 35 minutes) •• To Nakamondake: Approx. 70 minutes (round trip approx. 2 hours, 15 minutes)

Komanokoya Mountain Hut Information The hut is open from the last Saturday of April until the last Saturday of October. Closed during the winter due to heavy snow. Mountain hut accommodation only. No tents allowed. The cost is ¥3,000 per person (no meals included, so be sure to bring your own food). Japanese-style futons and warm blankets are provided. This is a popular mountain hut, so hikers make reservations months in advance especially during the summer season. There are no other accommodation options on top of the mountain, so reservations are essential.

駒の小屋の情報

行ける䞭門岳たで行くこずをお勧めする 泚意五月くらいた

ハむキングルヌトに぀いお

では残雪があるために軜量のクランポンや登山甚ポヌルを

駒の小屋ぞの䞊山

小屋が営業しおいる期間は4月の最終日曜日から10月の最終土曜

携行するこずをお勧めする 。それから忘れおはならないこず

• 䌚接駒ケ岳滝沢登山口からは玄 3.5 時間

日たで。冬季は豪雪にために閉鎖。宿泊は小屋のみでテント泊は

は、かならず倜明け前に起きお小屋の倖で日の出を眺める

• キリンテからは玄 4.5 時間

犁止。宿泊代は1 泊ひずり3,000 円食事は含たれおいないから食

• 尟瀬埡池からは玄 5.5 時間

料は持参するこず。垃団ず毛垃は甚意されおいる。ここは人気の

駒の小屋から

この山にはほかの宿泊斜蚭はないから予玄はかならずするこず。

こず。指先ひず぀でなんでも䟿利に手に入れるっお良いこず かもしれない。でもそういう䟿利なこずは、街に眮き去りにし お週末だけ駒の小屋で過ごしおみたらきっずすばらしい思い 出になるだろう。✀

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ある山小屋のため、数ヶ月先たで予玄は䞀杯、ずくに倏の季節。 • 䌚接駒ケ岳の頂䞊ぞは玄 20 分埀埩 35 分

予玄ずお問い合わせは

• 䞭門岳ぞは玄 70 分埀埩玄 2 時間 15 分

Tel: 080-2024-5375 7:20pmたで


Contact Information Tel: 080-2024-5375 (available until 7:20 p.m.) E-mail: info@komanokoya.com Website: www.komanokoya.com

Tobu Asakusa Station to Kinugawa Onsen Station. Transfer to the Aizu Mount Express train headed to Aizukougen-Ozeguchi Station. (Depart Asakusa 8:00 a.m. - Arrive Aizukouen-Ozeguchi 10:46 a.m.). From Aizukougen-Ozeguchi, take the 11 a.m. Aizu bus to Komagatake Tozanguchi bus stop (around 12:35 p.m.). From the bus stop, cross the road. There’s a public restroom as well as tap where you can fill up your water bottle. The trailhead is about a 30-minute walk up the paved road where there are public parking spaces available as well.

What to Bring •• Rain jacket and pants •• Warm clothes (fleece/down jacket), it can get cold up on the mountain at night and in the morning •• Headlamp and spare batteries •• Portable cooking stove and gas •• Pots, cooking/eating utensils •• Food (dinner, breakfast as well as snacks/lunch for during the hike) •• Water (enough for the hike up; water for cooking and for the next day is available at the mountain hut)

E-mail: info@komanokoya.com

オプション2

携行する装備

Website: www.komanokoya.com

東歊浅草駅から特別快速鬌怒 #103 に乗っお鬌怒川枩泉駅

• 雚具䞊䞋

ぞ。AIZUマりント゚キスプレスに乗り換えお䌚接高原尟瀬口駅ぞ

• 暖かい衣類フリヌスやダりンゞャケット等、山は朝や倜は気枩

Getting There From Tokyo Option 1: Take the rapid train from Tobu Asakusa Station (Tobu Kinugawa Line) to Aizukougen-Ozeguchi Station. (Depart Asakusa 6:20 a.m. - Arrive Aizukouen-Ozeguchi 9:25 a.m.). From Aizukougen-Ozeguchi, take the 9:50 a.m. Aizu bus to Komagatake Tozanguchi bus stop (around 11 a.m.). Option 2: Take the Special Rapid train (Kinu #103) from

東京からのアクセス

浅草を8:00am に出発すれば、䌚接高原の尟瀬口に 10:46am

が䞋がる。

オプション1

到着。そこから11:00am 発の䌚接バスに乗車し、駒ケ岳登山口

• ヘッドランプずバッテリヌ

東歊鬌怒川線の東歊浅草駅から快速に乗っお䌚接高原尟瀬口

のバス停䞋車到着は12:35am 頃。

• 調理甚のストヌブず燃料

駅ぞ浅草を6:20am に出れば 9:25am に到着。そこから9:50am

バス停で䞋車するず通りの反察偎に公共の䌑憩所があり、飲み

• 調理甚具ず食噚

発 の 䌚 接 バスに乗っお駒ケ岳 登 å±± 口 のバス停 例 車 到 着は

氎などを補絊できる。登山口はそこから道を30 分ほど歩いたずこ

• 食料倕食、朝食、ハむク䞭に食べるスナックや昌食

11:00am 頃

ろ。公共の駐車堎もある。

• 氎ハむク䞭の氎分補絊。食事ず翌日の氎は山小屋で手に入る AUTUMN 2016

47


Islands of the Demon King マンボりの島

By Tim Rock & Elaine Kwok

Banner fish swirled around the huge body of this denizen of the deep, angelfish, wrasses and a few other fish also pecked at its skin. It hovered in the open blue, not far above the coral reef from where we calmly watched. One of the largest, oddest and rarest of sights in the sea, the mola mola (also called the ocean sunfish) cruises serenely by. It’s hard to believe we are a boat ride away from the frenetic nightlife of Kuta and Legian. 深い海に生息するこの巚倧な生物の呚りを バナヌフィッシュが泳ぎ、゚ンれルフィッシュや ベラなどがその身䜓を぀぀いおいた。 その生き ものは、私たちが静かに芋守るリヌフからほど 近い青の空間に浮かんでいた。海掋生物の 䞭でもずくに珍重されおいるモラモラマンボ り が穏やかに泳いでいた。 クタやレギアンの 熱狂的なナむトラむフから、ボヌトで来られる 堎所だずは、にわかに信じられなかった。

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B

ali beckons many travelers to its mystical, tropical shores, and among those who answer the call are divers. Bali has some great dive spots, but relatively few venture off the southeast coast to the three islands where some remarkable diving awaits. Here the currents run strong and the corals are healthy and varied. It is a great place for all kinds of diving, from wild drifts to sedate searches and seasonal infestations of the oceanic sunfish. Strange and shy, this huge pelagic beast is a rarity to see for reef-dwelling scuba divers. These islands are a secret no more to the diving community and offer regular encounters with manta rays as well. Huge, graceful and as odd-looking as the mola, mantas glide along the coast of Nusa Penida, the largest of the three islands. Rugged and inviting, Nusa Penida has little interior water, so most residents stay near the coast, leaving the big island and its towering cliffs to the gods. There isn’t as much tourism as at nearby Nusa Lembongan, yet the treelined beaches and quiet villages flanking the island’s sandy shores sit next to some of the richest reefs in the world. On the west end, the eerie white limestone coastline of Penida rises straight up from the sea in sharp foliagecovered cliffs. From the northwest shore you can see Gunung Agung, the majestic volcano ascending high into the clouds on Bali. Penida’s wild terrain has been the inspiration for fables and myths. Balinese widely believe the island is the source of black magic and are careful what they say to the residents here. Natural disasters are said to have been caused by the giant demon king, Jero Gede Macaling, who hails from Nusa Penida.

バ

リはトロピカルなビヌチを求めお蚪れる旅行 者はもちろん、ダむバヌにもひじょうに人気

だ。バリにはおすすめのダむビングスポットが

たくさんあるが、最高のダむビングが埅ち受け

る3぀の島たで、南東の海岞から足を䌞ばすダむバヌはさほ

ど倚くない。 流れが匷いため、ここのサンゎ瀁は健康で豊かだ。ドリフ トダむビングやゆっくり探怜するのはもちろん、季節によっお 芋るこずができるマンボりなど、さたざたなダむビングを楜しむ こずができる。䞍思議で恥ずかしがり屋のマンボりは、リヌ フ奜きなダむバヌにずっおはかなり䟡倀のある遠掋の巚倧 魚である。 ここはダむビングコミュニティでは有名で、マンタレむなど ずの遭遇率も高い。芋た目もマンボりずおなじくらい䞍思議 な、巚倧で優雅なマンタは、3぀の島のなかでもっずも倧き いヌサペニダ島の沿岞を泳いでいる。 険しさが魅力のヌサペニダは、内陞に氎資源が少ない ため、ほずんどの䜏人は沿岞郚に䜏んでおり、島ず塔のよ うにそびえる厖のほずんどは神のものだ。隣のヌサレンボン ガン島のような芳光地ではないが、䞖界有数の豊かなサン ゎ瀁のそばには、ビヌチに䞊ぶ静かな村が朚にふちどられ おいる。 西の端には䞍気味に癜い石灰岩のペニダの海岞線が、 海からたっすぐそびえおいる。南西の海岞から芋えるのは、 雲たで届きそうなバリ島のアグン火山だ。 倧自然を誇るペニダ島には寓話や神話がたくさんある。 バリニヌズたちは、黒魔術の起源はこの島だず信じおいる ので、島の䜏民に話すずきは泚意しおいるらしい。自然灜害 などは、このヌサペニダからやっおくる巚倧な悪魔の王、ゞェ ロ・ゲデ・マカリンがもたらすず信じられおいるのだ。

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Nusa Lembongan is a small but popular day trip destination southwest of Nusa Penida. Once solely a surfer’s haven, a boom of sorts is currently underway with fast ferries carrying large groups of people across the straits daily from Bali in less than an hour. Hotels, restaurants and modest homestays are sprouting up everywhere. A few dive services have set up shop on the island. These include World Diving, Bali Diving Academy and Bali Hai Diving Adventures. Diving from Lembongan beats the daily commute across the channel done by many dive shops on Bali. Sandwiched in between Penida and Lembongan is tiny Nusa Ceningan. A short foot bridge spans the narrow channel between the two islands. The nearby village is full of fishermen and seaweed farmers who work the nearby waters and inner reef flats. A few hotels and homestays overlook the sea on this once quiet isle. While demons are not beloved by Balinese, demon rays are a delight to divers. John Chapman of World Diving Lembongan absolutely loves mantas. He’s been on Lembongan for years but gets as giddy as a schoolboy about manta dives. The south Penida coastline is home to a huge group of manta rays that can sometimes be seen from the air swimming in current lines near the cliffs, feeding and gliding through the sea. Some are reef mantas, joined by their larger pelagic cousins. There's even a mystical white manta I have seen leaping from the water on the way to Manta Point. Given the proper sea conditions, Manta Point, east of Penida's famed Arch Rock, can be enjoyed by all levels of divers. Snorkelers can even watch giant devilfish coast gracefully below them. Groups of manta rays gather at the reef area surrounding this large rock to visit the cleaning stations, mate and feed in the current with their immense mouths gaping open. There is a "flyway" of sorts they follow, like deer on a forest trail. They will come in along this invisible path and hover over a series of very large boulders holding cleaning stations. Look for the small cleaner wrasses that like to preen these animals. It was here John, Elaine and I watched as they took turns romping and getting cleaned. They come big and small and run the spectrum from nearly pure white to light gray with underbellies a brilliant white to jet-black with just a speck of white on the mandibles. Mantas can be curious, and we enjoyed some close encounters as they checked us out as we hovered.

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ヌサレンボンガン島はヌサペニダの南西に䜍眮し、小さな 島だが日垰り旅行に人気だ。か぀おはサヌファヌ倩囜だっ たが、いたではバリからファヌストボヌトに乗っお、1時間もか けずに来るこずができるので、芳光客のグルヌプも倚く、ホ テルやレストラン、ホヌムステむなどもどんどん増えおいる。 ワヌルドダむビング、バリダむビング・アカデミヌ、バリハむ・ ダむビングアドベンチャヌをはじめずするダむビングショップも できおいお、チャンネルを枡るダむビングでは、バリのショッ プよりも人気だ。 ペニダずレンボンガンに挟たれおいるのが、小さなヌサセ ニンガン島で、レンボンガンずの短い海峡は橋で぀ながっお いる。近隣の村には、近くの海や平らなサンゎ瀁で働く持 垫や海藻蟲家が䜏んでいお、静かな島には海が芋えるホテ ルやホヌムステむが䜕軒かある。 バリニヌズは悪魔を恐れおいるが、悪魔のマンタはダむ バヌに倧人気だ。ワヌルドダむビング・レンボンガンのゞョン・ チャップマンもマンタのファンで、レンボンガンには䜕幎も通 い぀づけおいるはずなのに、マンタの話になるずすっかり舞 い䞊がった感じになる。 ペニダの南岞はマンタレむのグルヌプの䜏み凊ずなっおお り、䞊空からは、厖のそばを流れにそっお海を飛ぶように泳 いでいる姿を芋るこずができる。 リヌフマンタもいれば、遠掋マンタもいお、マンタポむント ぞ行く途䞭には、䌝説のホワむトマンタが氎䞭から飛び䞊が るのを芋たこずもある。 海の状況さえ合えば、ペニダ島の有名なアヌチロックの 東にあるマンタポむントは、どのレベルのダむバヌでも楜し める。シュノヌケルでさえ、県䞋を優雅に泳ぐ巚倧なデビル フィッシュを芋るこずができる。マンタのグルヌプは、倧きな 岩を囲むように存圚する珊瑚瀁のクリヌニングステヌション に集たり、亀尟したり、巚倧な口をぱっくり開けお゚サを食 べたりしおいる。 圌らには、森にすむ鹿のような特有のけもの道があるら しく、目に芋えない道を通っおやっおきおは、クリヌニングス テヌションを擁する倧きな岩の䞊を旋回する。ベラが圌らを 掃陀しおいるのも芋るこずができるだろう。ゞョンず゚レむンず 私も、マンタたちが順番に掃陀しおもらうのを芋た。 マンタはサむズも倧小さたざたで、色も、ほずんどたっ癜な ものから、薄グレヌでお腹が癜いもの、䞋あごのみ癜くおほ かは挆黒の皮類などがいる。マンタは奜奇心旺盛なので、 かなり近くで芋るこずができるかもしれない。


Islands of the Demon King

Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa

offers an Authentically Bali™ experience through the feature of its 382 guestrooms and suites; highlighting the admirable views of the ocean and gardens.

Nusa Dua Spa a spa pioneer on the island, retains the rich Balinese tradition through its marvelous designs and variety of treatments.

NUSA DUA BEACH HOTEL & SPA, BALI – INDONESIA Tel: +62 (361) 771 210 reservations@nusaduahotel.com www.nusaduahotel.com

AUTUMN 2016

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Mola Mola Jurassic Point or Crystal Bay are where ocean sunfish like to hang out. They are normally alone getting cleaned by bannerfish and angelfish but can sometimes be found in small groups. It is quite a sight to see as they hang vertically in the water while these fish rummage all over their bodies. Mola come near the reef only briefly, presumably to mate and preen. My guide Selamat seemed even more eager than me to spot one. As we floated down along the wall at Jurassic Point passing whitetip sharks, giant bull rays and blue-spot stingrays, Selamat kept an eye out into the blue. Sunfish are big but also narrow and, if you don't see them from the side, you may miss them. Sure enough, an excited yell through his regulator alerted me to a cleaning mola up ahead. We slowed our approach and watched as busy bannerfish and Emperor angelfish pecked and preened this giant disk of a fish. As we got close, it shied away, then headed out to the open sea after I fired a few shots from my camera. But to our delight, the call to clean overrode the call to flee, and it circled and returned. During the course of a week, we saw molas at Pura Ped, Crystal Bay, Toyapakeh and the Jurrassic Point. The highlight for me took place on the boat, however. I had heard stories about the molas leaping from the sea and even seen a video. Suddenly, while taking some shots of Crystal Bay's arch, it happened. A mola broke the surface near our boat and completely cleared the ocean, loudly splashing back in a full-bodied flop. Amazing. Sunfish come into the reefs of Lembongan Island during late August and early September, but are also seen from June through November. They typically stay in an area punctuated by cold ocean upwellings and it is safest to look for them at slack tide. Lembongan and its neighboring isles are a real treasure for divers above and below. At night, the island is quiet, and there are some nice restaurants to enjoy dinner and drinks. This was certainly not my first trip and won't be my last, although it may have been the most rewarding to date. Like me, you may need to exercise your demons here again and again. ✀

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モラモラ ゞュラシックポむントやクリスタルベむはマンボりのお気に 入りだ。単独行動が倚く、バナヌフィッシュや゚ンれルフィッ シュに掃陀されおいるが、小さなグルヌプにいるこずもある。 氎䞭で垂盎に浮かぶマンボりにむらがった魚たちが、身䜓 を぀いばむ様子はなかなかの芋ものだ。 モラがリヌフにやっおくるのは、亀尟のずきず身づくろい のずきだけなので、ガむドのスラマは私より興奮しおいるよう だった。ゞュラシックポむントのりォヌルにそっお、ペゎレザ メ、ゞャむアントブルレむ、ブルヌスポットスティングレむなどを 芋ながら䞋降しおいくず、スラマは真っ青な海䞭を凝芖した。 マンボりは倧きいが幅がないので、暪から芋ないず芋逃しお したうこずもある。 するず、予想通り、レギュレヌタ越しに圌の興奮した声が 聞こえおきお、目の前にマンボりが珟れた。私たちは近づく のをやめお、バナヌフィッシュや゚ンペラヌ゚ンれルフィッシュ がマンボりの巚䜓を぀぀くのを眺めた。少し近づくず、遠ざ かっおしたい、その姿を写真に䜕枚か収めるず広い海に消 えおいった。ずころがうれしいこずに、もっず掃陀をしおほし かったようで、向きを倉えるずこちらに戻っおきたのだった。 トダパケ、ゞュラ 1週間で、ピュラペッドずクリスタルベむ、 シックポむントでマンボりを芋るこずができたが、ハむラむトは ボヌトの䞊で起こった。モラが海から飛び䞊がるこずは聞い たこずがあるし、ビデオでも芋たこずがあった。 クリスタルベむのアヌチを撮圱しおいるあいだにそれは突 然起きた。モラが海面から飛び出したかず思うず、倧きな氎 しぶきを䞊げながら党身で海面に萜ちおいったのだ。それ は埗もいわれぬ光景だった。 マンボりは8月終わりから9月初めにかけおレンボンガン島 のリヌフを蚪れるが、6月から11月にかけおも芋るこずができ ゆうしょう

る。圌らはたいおい冷氎の湧昇がある堎所にいお、朮だる みのあたりを探すのがもっずも効率的だ。 レンボンガンず近隣の島々はダむバヌなら陞でも海でも楜 しむこずができる。倜は静かではあるが、おしゃれなレストラ ンでディナヌを楜しむこずもできる。初めお蚪れたわけでもな いし、これが最埌になるわけでもないが、これたででもっずも 満足床の高い旅だった。ここでは私のように悪魔の蚓緎が 䜕床も必芁なのかもしれない。✀


Islands of the Demon King Lembongan Diving

レンボンガンダむビング World Diving Lembongan (at Pondok Baruna Guest House) Tel. +62 812 390 0686 e-mail: info@world-diving.com Web: www.pondokbaruna.com/diving Bali Diving Academy Tel. +62 (0)361 270252 e-mail: info@scubali.com Web: www.scubali.com Bali Hai Diving Adventures Tel. +62 361 724 062 e-mail: reservations@balihaidiving.com Web: www.balihaidiving.com

PRACTICALITIES Getting There: Nusa Lembongan is approximately an hour’s boat trip from Sanur. Depending on your flight schedule. it is sometimes necessary to overnight in Bali before catching a boat. Transfers usually include free pick-up and drop-off from the airport, Jimbaran, Kuta, Seminyak, Legian and Sanur. Weather / Climate: The climate of Nusa Lembongan is similar to the neighboring “mainland” of Bali, but it is noticeably drier, particularly from May to September. The year-round average maximum temperature is 28-30 celsius degrees with minimums ranging from 23- 25 degrees. Language: Balinese is the most common language of communication between local residents. Bahasa Indonesian and English are also widely understood and spoken. Staying Connected: The island receives good 3G but be mindful of the cost of making calls from mobile phones. Most restaurants and accommodations offer free WiFi access to guests. There are also public Internet cafes in Jungut Batu.

お圹立ち情報 アクセスヌサレンボンガンはサヌヌルからボヌトで玄時 間。飛行機のスケゞュヌルによっおはバリに1 泊しなければ ならない。ボヌトには、空枯、ゞンバラン、クタ、スミニャック、 レギアン、サヌヌルからの送迎がたいおい含たれおいる。

気候レンボンガンの気候はバリずよく䌌おいるが、月から 月はずくに也燥しおいる。幎間の平均最高気枩は2830℃、 最䜎平均は2325℃前埌。

蚀語地元の人はバリ語だが、バハサむンドネシアず英語も よく䜿われる。

通信環境3Gの電波は良いが、携垯電話からの電話料金 は芁確認だ。レストランや宿泊斜蚭にはフリヌ Wi-Fiがあるし、 ゞュングバトゥにはむンタヌネットカフェなどもある。

AUTUMN 2016

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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY HOKKAIDO

HOKKAIDO

Amazingly Dry Powder Snow

Head to Hokkaido's last frontier ' ' www.facebook.com/HokkaidoPowderBelt HOKKAIDO

HOKKAIDO

HOKKAIDO

NAGANO

NAGANO

NAGANO

SKI JAPAN

Season runs from December 3rd to May 6th (With Mother Natures Blessing)

Come in December, March or April and beat the crowds and save some money!

tel. 050 5532 6026 www.nozawaholidays.com

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T R AV E L E R


FUKUSHIMA

NAGANO

NAGANO

NIIGATA

NIIGATA

NAGANO

GUNMA

NAGANO

AUTUMN 2016

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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY GUNMA

SHIZUOKA

SHIZUOKA

SAITAMA

GUNMA

KOCHI

Refresh your Mind, Body & Soul

PPYRA A H

rR te

SHIKO FT

n`s B est Whi te pa -W Ja a

i ng a nd Ca nyo a ft ni ng

res. ntu ve Ad

. KU

Refreshing outdoor adventure experiences under 2 hours from Tokyo!

Whitewater rafting, canyoning, adventure combos..... 0278-72-2811 www.canyons.jp 56

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ft.com appyra 0 info@h 50 0 5 7 7 ho 088 toyo-c ahara O n 789-0158 10-4 Iw e k ih c o com ft..c raft a-gun K ap pyra Nagaok ://www.h

ft http aft HappyR


TOKYO

TOKYO

TOKYO

TOKYO

CELEBRATING HUMAN POWER AND INTRODUCING THE QUIET BACKSTREETS, BEAUTIFUL PARKS AND UNIQUE CULTURE OF TOKYO NOT FOUND ON TOURIST MAPS.

freewheeling.jp NARA

TOKUSHIMA

OKINAWA

OKINAWA

TOKYO

USA

FIND YOUR PERFECT GETAWAY!

Specializing in Resort Properties in Niseko Hanazono and Hakuba's Wadano Area

SNOWBOARD WITH THE LOCALS Nagano ◊ Niseko Alaska ◊ USA ◊ Canada www.cloudlinetours.com We provide real estate expertise and bilingual assistance for finding your ideal resort property. Phone: 03-3556-8887 info@yamate-homes.co.jp www.yamate-homes.co.jp

AUTUMN 2016

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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY MICRONESIA

MICRONESIA

MICRONESIA

THAILAND

KOH LANTA KRABI THAILAND

email: reservation@pimalai.com

www.pimalai.com

Discover Nature, Discover Yourself. TAIWAN

BALI 癒しの空間で... 波を心いくたで満喫...

サヌフィンガむド サヌフィンコヌチ ラグゞャリヌな宿泊斜蚭

Surf Guiding Surf Coaching Luxury Accommodation

Feel at home... Enjoy the ride... VIETNAM

■ NEPAL

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T R AV E L E R

www.thechillhouse.com VIETNAM




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