ISSUE 61 | AUTUMN 2016 | FREE
AN INTERVIEW WITH
TRAVIS RICE THE RECKLESS OPTIMIST
Aizu Unplugged at Komanokoya
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Islands of the Demon King ãã³ããŠã®å³¶
Miyako Magic
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Baird Beer and more! ADVENTURE
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PEOPLE
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C U LT U R E
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AUTUMN 2016
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I N S I D E I S S U E 61 â S U M M E R 2 016
26 THE RECKLESS OPTIMIST
AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE ã€ã³ã¿ãã¥ãŒïŒ ãã©ãã¹ã»ã©ã€ã¹ ç¡éç ²ãªãªããã£ãã¹ãã«ããæ°æ¬¡å ã®æ ç» 16
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F E AT U R E S
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Globalwheels and Global Cycling Tour
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From the Fish Market to the World Market
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INSIDE
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From the Editor
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Guide Lines
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Organic Cotton in Japan
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Market Watch
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Cycling japan
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Beer Buzz
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Local Brew
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Travel & Adventure Directory
Miyako Magic
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Aizu Unplugged: Komanokoya äŒæŽ¥é§ã¶å²³ ïŒé§ã®å°å±ïŒ
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An Interview with Travis Rice
Islands of the Demon King
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T R AV E L E R
M A R C R U F F IN I
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C A P T U R E D B Y M A R C R U F F INI
AUTUMN 2016
â FROM THE EDITOR Gardner Robinson, Editor-in-Chief gardner@outdoorjapan.com
J
apan is a land of seasons. Get out of the city, and youâll see how the landscape is constantly changing from green to gold to sparkling white with many colors in between. The distinct natural cycle here makes Japan a special place to experience throughout the year. When Travis Rice, arguably the most iconic snowboarder of his generation, began planning the follow-up to âThe Art of Flight,â widely considered the greatest snowboarding film ever made, he chose to follow this natural cycle. Having competed and filmed in Japan countless times, Travis and his Brain Farm team were no strangers to Japanâs snow-laden mountains, but this time they were coming with a new purpose; to chart and follow the process of water and the weather patterns across the Pacific. The result of nearly five years of planning, waiting, shooting and blind optimism is âThe Fourth Phase,â an epic, personal film of snowboarding and adventure.
Outdoor Japan was pleased to be able to play a small part in helping to arrange shooting in Japan and, after watching the Tokyo premier, weâre sure snow (and Rice) fans will be stoked as well. Check out the exclusive interview with Travis about the steps that led up to this film and the challenges of filming and riding in Japan. Outdoor Japan is on a cyclical path as well, in a sense going back to the future. Back in 2000, we went online with a mission to introduce local areas, fun activities and off-the-beaten-track destinations and connect travelers with some great tour operators around Japan. In 2005, we launched Traveler magazine, the first English (or bi-lingual) magazine about travel and the outdoors in Japan. Since then, weâve published our annual Japan Snow Guide, developed a Japan Snow Guide Mobile app for iOS and Android, and have published hundreds of guides and stories of travel and adventure in Japan.
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OUTDOOR JAPAN TRAVELER Published Seasonally Publisher Outdoor Japan Media
Media Coordinator Rie Miyoshi
Editor-in-Chief Gardner Robinson
Contributing Editors Wayne Graczyk, Shigeo Morishita
Editor Bill Ross
Translators Kumiko Kurosaki, Yoshine Lee, Eri Nishikami, Kazusa Murai, Lana Sofer
Art Director Yuki Masuko
Contributors Joan Bailey, Lee Dobson, Eddie Gianelloni, Bryan Harrell, Neil Hartmann, Abdel Ibrahim, Pauline Kitamura, Takashi Niwa, Tim Rock, Robert Self, Justin Stein, Bonnie Waycott, Craig Yamashita Sales & Marketing media@outdoorjapan.com
©2016 OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED. VIEWS EXPRESSED HEREIN ARE NOT NECESSARILY THOSE OF OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. PRINTED IN JAPAN.
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In 2017, we are taking another step forward while also circling back to our roots as we launch Outdoor Japan Adventures (OJA) a new online and mobile platform with the simple goal to make it easier for travelers to find and book exciting tours to local areas of Japan. This easy-to-use travel and adventure booking engine will include videos, images and stories about tours, tour operators and experiences throughout Japan. Look out for the BETA version to be out in time for some cool winter tours, followed by the official launch in February 2017. In addition to the Travis Rice interview, youâll find many of our favorite things in this issue, from autumn activities and events to Japanâs top craft brewer, from eco-activists to travel and diving adventures. Every season is a new adventure in Japan, and we hope we can continue to make it easier for you to find yours.
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Outdoor Japan Media
6-6-55 Higashi Kaigan Minami Chigasaki-shi, Kanagawa 253-0054 ã253-0054 ç¥å¥å·çè ã¶åŽåžæ±æµ·å²žå 6-6-55 Tel: (0467) 81-3212 Fax: (0467) 81-3213 EDITORIAL: editor@outdoorjapan.com ADVERTISING: ads@outdoorjapan.com SUBSCRIPTIONS: subscribe@outdoorjapan.com
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Cover Photo: âThe Fourth Phase,â written in Kanji by Travis Rice. Photo by Jason/Halayko Red Bull Content Pull
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GUIDE LINES
Banff Mountain Film Festival 2016 in Japan From ice climbing glaciers to surfing arctic breaks, the Banff Film Festival brings epic tales of adventure and exploration to Japan. âArctic Swellâ
âClimbing Iceâ
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tories of jaw-dropping expeditions, incredible adventures and travels to far-flung corners of the earth once again hit the big screen as the Banff Mountain Film Festival makes several stops in Japan. Stunning films include action sports photographer Tim Kempleâs visit to Vatnajökull, an Icelandic glacier that can be seen from space, with two of Europeâs most experienced ice climbers, Klemen Premrl and Rahel Schelb. Surfers will be sure to be familiar with award-winning surf photographer Chris Burkard who captures surfing at the ends of the earth in âArctic Swell.â Back on the U.S. mainland, âShowdown at Horseshoe Hellâ documents the wildest event in the climbing world that takes place in northwest Arkansas. In âDarklight,â the soulful Sweetgrass filmmakers illuminate the night with professional mountain bikers Graham Agassiz, Matt Hunger and Matty Miles racing through the Pacific Northwest. A major purpose for the Banff Mountain Film Festival is to raise awareness of land and wildlife preservation. In âThe Last Dragonsâ we get an intimate look at North Americaâs eastern hellbender, a rare and ancient salamander. Six mates, six rivers, three canoes, two months and one idea to âProtect the Peelâ and youâve got âPaddle for the North,â a 1,500-kilometer canoe trip through the Peel Watershed in Canada. Four friends spend â55 Hours in Mexicoâ on an outlandish weekend trip to climb the volcano Orizaba, the third-highest peak in North America. These films are not just about aesthetics, but also meaningful storytelling. In Forest Woodwardâs moving âThe Important Places,â we follow a father-son, 28-day expedition through the Grand Canyon, and tears will be shed in âDenali,â the story of Oregon photographer and surfer Ben Moonâs tribute to his dog who helped him battle through cancer. To purchase tickets and for more information, visit www.banff.jp.
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âPaddle to the Northâ
Banff Film Festival in Japan 2016 Check the schedule for a showing near you. Minakami, Gunma: Oct. 1 Asahimachi, Toyama: Oct. 8 Tokyo: Oct. 7-10 Nagoya: Oct. 15 Osaka: Oct. 29-30 Yokohama: Nov. 12-13 Sapporo: Nov. 20 Fukuoka: Nov. 23 Sendai: Nov. 26-27
âREEL ROCKâ
âThe Important Placesâ
âDarklightâ
âThe Last Dragonsâ
â55 Hours in Mexicoâ
âDenaliâ
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GUIDE LINES
Autumn Events
Spring Airlines Japan to Connect Hokkaido to Tokyo Traveling to Hokkaido from Tokyo just got easier and cheaper with low-cost carrier Spring Airline Japanâs latest addition. Visitors can now fly out at 7:15 a.m. every day from Narita Airport and arrive in Hokkaido by 9 a.m., leaving plenty of time to settle in and enjoy the fall colors or the snow. There is also a daily return flight from New Chitose Airport to Narita each morning. Web: www.ch.com/en
Zuiki Festival The Zuiki Festival celebrates another successful grain harvest. The annual event started by offering rice husks and the seasonâs bounty at Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. Zuiki means âtaro stalk,â which also makes up the roof of the mikoshi (portable shrine) carried around during the festivities. When: Oct. 1-5 Where: Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine, Kyoto
Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival This annual celebration is one of Japanâs three great lantern festivals and dates back more than 300 years. Nihonmatsu Shrine will be lit up for three nights with eightmeter-high lanterns and taiko drumming at the base. When: Oct. 4-6 Where: Nihonmatsu Shrine, Fukushima
Shonan, Himeji and Takahashi open new Montbell Stores Just in time for the autumn hiking season, three Montbell stores will open this October in beachside Shonan, near Kobe in Himeji and in Takahashi, Gunma. Japanâs top home-grown outdoor brand makes top quality gear for Japan and also organizes some great events. When: October Where: Lalaport Hiratsuka; Himeji, Hyogo and Takahashi, Gunma Web: www.montbell.com
Takayama Matsuri Autumn Festival This is one of Japanâs most beautiful festivals with 11 floats elaborately adorned
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with karakuri ningyo marionettes and motifs depicting Japanâs ancient culture in historic Takayama. When: Oct. 9-10 Where: Sakurayama Hachiman Shrine, Gifu
Ana Hachimangu Yabusame Enjoy the spectacle of Japanese horseback archery, called yabusame, in the heart of Tokyo. This ancient sport is traditionally held in spring and autumn. When: Oct. 10 Where: Ana Hachimangu Shrine, Tokyo
Makino Kogen Family Camp Organized by The North Face Kids Nature School, this family camp in Shiga Prefecture includes kayaking, trekking and bonfires in a pristine riverside location near Biwa Lake. ¥8,000 for adults and ¥4,000 for elementary students. When: Oct. 15-16 Where: Makino Kogen, Shiga Web: www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/kids-ns
Cliff Diving World Series 2016 The Red Bull cliff diving elite moves to Shirahama for the first time this fall. At 50 meters high along the Pacific Ocean, Sandanbeki cliff in Wakayama provides a dynamic and completely natural setting for the divers. The Shirahama contest is the penultimate stop before the Dubai finals. When: Oct. 16 Where: Sandanbeki, Yoshino Kumano National Park Web: www.redbullcliffdiving.com
Feel EARTH 2016 Camp outside listening to folk tunes while soaking up fresh autumn air in Shizuoka. Along with music, there are fun activity and craft workshops for all ages including yoga, BBQ and cooking, candle-making, playgrounds for kids and rock climbing. When: Oct. 15-16 Where: Onoji Family Camp, Shizuoka Web: www.ei-publishing.co.jp/ feelearth2016/
Jidai Matsuri, Kyoto More than 2,000 people will parade in traditional Japanese wear through Kyoto, reflecting the cityâs 1,200-year history. The procession starts from Kyoto Imperial
Palace, traveling along Oike-dori to Heian Jingu Shrine. When: Oct. 22 (Kyoto Imperial Palace: noon, Oike-dori street: 12:50 p.m., Heian Jingu Shrine: 2:30 p.m.) Where: Kyoto Imperial Palace /Oike-dori street/ Heian Jingu Shrine Web: www.kyoto-magonote.jp/en/ feelearth2016/ * Special seats with English guidance are available for ¥3,500 from Kyoto City Tourism Association: Tel: (075) 213-1717,
Shirasagi-no Mai (White Heron Dance) Shirasagi-no Mai is a ceremonial parade with eight dancers dressed as white herons to depict ancient stories from the Heian Period (8th to 12th century). When: Nov. 3 Where: Sensoji Temple, Tokyo
Mt. Mizugaki Climbing The North Face Kids Nature School takes children around Mt. Mizugaki to learn climbing from Yuji Hirayama. As the first Asian climber to win the Lead World Cup in 1998, Hirayama is one of Japanâs top rock climbers and is an athlete for The North Face. When: Nov. 5 Where: Mt. Mizugaki, Yamanashi Web: www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/kids-ns
Yokonori Nippon Film Festival Check out Japanâs action sports scene at this annual week-long festival dedicated to yokonori, riding sideways, whether it be surf, skate or snow. The film festival is held in the Shonan surf town of Chigasaki, Kanagawa. Admission is Â¥1,500 and can be purchased online. When: Nov. 12-18 Where: Aeon Cinema Chigasaki Web: www.yoko-nori.jp
Fall Evening Illumination Enjoy kouyou (autumnal leaves changing color) under the night sky at Rikugien Gardens. Built during the Edo period, this daimyo teien belonged to a feudal lord and remains a popular destination to view kouyou foliage. When: Nov. 19-Dec. 7 Where: Rikugien Gardens, Tokyo
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100 Minutes from Tokyo to an Amazing Winter Playground With the Hokuriku Shinkansen expansion now in its second winter, and a network of buses ferrying visitors from Iiyama to dozens of ski resorts, it̢۪s never been easier to explore the area.
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PAID PUBLICITY
Kamakura
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Nozawa Onsen Village
he Shinetsu Shizenkyo Nature Park is a vast region that includes 39 ski resorts in more than 21 resort areas in Nagano and Niigata prefectures. The park features timeless natural landscapes where you can feel the soul of Japan and enjoy some of the heaviest snowfalls in Japan. The Hokuriku Shinkansen, which extended to Iiyama Station in 2015, now makes it easy to jump off and explore the major ski areas in Iiyama, Nakano, Iizuna, Shinano, Yamanouchi, Kijimadaira, Sakae and Nozawa Onsen in Nagano Prefecture and Myoko in Niigata Prefecture. While this region is most famous for its light, deep powder snow, travelers can also enjoy a
Shinetsu Shizenkyo Activity Center
variety of natural and culture experiences. Many travelers enjoy visiting the popular snow monkeys who warm up in the hot springs in Jigokudani. In mid-winter, visitors can sit in kamakura (Japanese igloos) and enjoy dinner or drinks, participate in cultural festivals such as the Fire Festival in Nozawa Onsen, held every Jan. 15, and of course soak in one of the many local onsen after a day on the slopes. The area is also popular in autumn for hiking, trekking and enjoying the beautiful fall colors. In the green season, guests flock to the mountainous resort areas to escape the heat and enjoy the rivers, lakes and fresh mountain air. Jigokudani Yaen-Koen
SHINETSU SHIZENKYO SUPER VALUE TICKET The Super Value ticket allows visitors to choose from 38 ski resorts. Each Super Value ticket (Price: Â¥21,000) includes a packet of five tickets which can be exchanged at any of the 38 resorts for a one-day lift ticket. For lift tickets priced less than Â¥4,200, visitors will receive an additional meal and/or onsen ticket. Super Value tickets are available at âTIC Tokyoâ at Tokyo Stationâs Nihonbashi Exit or âShinetsu Shizenkyo Activity Centerâ inside Iiyama Station.
SNOW AREA CONNECT PASS Navigating through the park can be time and money consuming, but with the Snow Area Connect Pass, hop on and off buses with ease. The one-day and two-day passes are available at the Tourist Information Center located in Iiyama Station. Starting from Iiyama Station, participating buses include the Nagaden Bus, Nozawa Liner (and local Nozawa Onsen Bus), Iiyama Cityâs community bus and Kijimadaira shuttle bus.
Shibu Onsen
ACCESS AND INFORMATION The Shinetsu Shizenkyo Nature Park is easily accessible from the Hokuriku Shinkansen Iiyama Station with buses connecting the station to each village. It takes approximately 100 minutes from Tokyo to Iiyama Station by bullet train. The Shinetsu Shizenkyo Activity Center and Tourist Information Center are open year âround. Here you can discover tours and more information on mountain trekking, cycling, water sports, snow activities, cultural tours and rentals. Outdoor gear and off-road fat bike rentals are also available here.
Fatbike Rentals
SHINETSU SHIZENKYO TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER Tel: (0269) 62-7000 (9 a.m. â 6 p.m.) E-mail: info@shinetsu-shizenkyo.com Web: www.shinetsu-shizenkyo.com *These photos are images
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SPINNING THE FUTURE OF ORGANIC COTTON IN JAPAN By Rie Miyoshi
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hen was the last time you bought a cotton T-shirt and put any thought into where itâs made? Todayâs clothing industryâs self-sufficiency rate is almost non-existent. Even âMade in Japanâ clothing may be assembled here, yet most of the materials are imported. In Tokyo, a city of more than 13 million people, but with less than 8,000 hectares of farmland, 48-year-old Takuya Tomizawa of Tokyo Cotton Village is shouting a message, âKangaeru,â urging people to think about our footprint on this planet. âPeople are always surprised when I tell them T-shirts can be made naturally from what we grow in the soil,â Tomizawa says. Cotton was first imported from China during the Heian Period in the 9th century, but it was not until the 13th century when it was cultivated. It flourished during the Edo period as more people discovered how comfortable it was. Cotton cultivation is tricky. It thrives in dry places such as Texas or India, but give it too much water and it rots. With Japanâs rainy weather and humid summers, this plant adapted by growing its cotton facing away from the sun and using its petals as an umbrella. At its peak, Japanese cotton expanded to around 200 types, varying in length, thickness and elasticity. However when western culture entered in the Meiji Period, after Japan was forced to open its doors to the world, importing cheaper American cotton was preferred and local cotton production
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came to a halt. Today, only 30 types of cotton exist. Tomizawaâs mission is to ensure these 30 endangered types of cotton donât die out. Originally from Iwate Prefecture in northern Japan, Tomizawa moved to Tokyo after high school to pursue his dream of being a rock drummer. After three years as a struggling musician, he changed his career path and went into music promoting, working with international artists in Tokyo and even attending school in New York for two years before becoming a successful advertising executive in Tokyo. Music continued to be a part of his life. âAs a drummer, I wore cotton T-shirts and ripped jeans to look cool,â Tomizawa laughs. âMy point is, cotton was always there. You could say music led me to cotton.â In 2006, former U.S. Vice President Al Gore released the internationally acclaimed documentary, âAn Inconvenient Truth,â which led to Live Earth Music Festival, a series of benefit concerts around the world to help combat climate change. Meanwhile, musician and activist Ryuichi Sakamoto had been working on a project to create completely 100 percent Japanese cotton T-shirts. Over six years, he produced 90 T-shirts, which were signed by famous musicians and auctioned off at the festivals in Tokyo and Kyoto. Tomizawa was working at an agency when his client, Subaru, sponsored a project cultivating cotton
with the Tohoku Cotton Project. During the March 11, 2011, disaster, saltwater from the tsunami left northern Japanâs farmland infertile for cropsâexcept for cotton, which is able to withstand high salinity. The Tohoku Cotton Project helps farmers whose rice paddies were flooded by providing cotton seeds, which are harvested and purchased by businesses. As a Tohoku native, Tomizawa was inspired by how northern Japan adapted to its new landscape. âJust like cotton,â he says. He realized very few people were aware Japan used to produce cotton. After receiving seeds of knowledge (and literally, cotton seeds) from the
Tohoku farmers, he launched Tokyo Cotton Village in 2008. Tomizawa thought of moving near the mountains or ocean but realized he needed to bring the inaka (countryside) to Tokyo to reach more people. Tokyo Cotton Village owns two of five cotton farms in East Japan with 20 to 30 pots of pesticidefree cotton in Oita (Tokyo) and Yokohama. The pots make around five kilogramsâproducing about six T-shirtsâof Aizu Fukushima and Tohoku cotton. âWe live in a society where we keep buying things. When something breaks, we just buy a replacement,â says Tomizawa. âInformation comes so easily, so we simply weed out what we like or dislike. âI used to be a busy salary worker, but Japanese cotton opened my eyes to stop and think about where things actually came from. This is why I want people to make time to be aware of their footprint.â When asked how often the cotton is watered, Tomizawa explains the cotton is usually left alone. Cotton is accustomed to dry areas and spreads its roots deep into the soil to look for water. âIf we overwater them, they become weak. We donât spoil our cotton, we want them to be sturdyâitâs like raising kids,â he laughs. For a participatory fee, anyone can attend workshops to learn more about the process, try their hand at thread spinning and help with the harvesting in the fall and winter. Tomizawa also holds workshops at cafes, music festivals and events. For more information, visit www.tokyocottonvillage. com.
By Joan Bailey
MARKET WATCH Market of the Sun â Taiyo Marche
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ot far from Tsukiji Market and Tokyo Bay is Taiyo Marche, aka the Market of the Sun. Opened in 2013, the market has become a favorite with area residents and attracts visitors from near and far. Regular Tokyo farmersâ market shoppers might recognize some of the 100 or so vendors from other city markets who set up shop here. Offerings range from domestic and imported w i ne, ba ked goods, seasona l f r u its a nd vegetables to artisanal sesame oils. Plenty of craftspeople are also on hand with jewelry, handmade soap, wooden toys and cleverly patterned hats and aprons. A c c ord i ng to A k i ko Ya m agat a , m a rket spokesperson, the Taiyo Marche in Tsukishima Second Childrenâs Park was founded by Mitsuii Real Estate Residential Corporation as something interesting to do for the occupants of their nearby apartment buildings.
âWe wanted consumers to be able to meet the farmers face to face and let farmers promote their wares directly,â Yamagata said. Growers come primarily from Honshu, although depending on the season, those from other regions also join. Yamakura organic tomatoes come from Takayama, Gifu Prefecture, bearing more than 40 varieties of heirloom tomatoes in all shapes, sizes and colors. (Go early to get the best selection as customers, quite literally, eat them up as fast as they appear.) Other growers arrive in autumn from Minami Alps, Shizuoka Prefecture, with somen kabocha (spaghetti squash) and some of the best plums around. Aiyo Farms, a cooperative venture for young farmers, rolls in from Chiba and draws customers with their enthusiasm and fine selection of seasonal vegetables. Specialty shop owners, such as Edible Gardens, line up beside farmers and craftspeople in an effort to increase awareness of their business or test new products. For others, such as Shigeru Yokoyama, itâs a chance to tell consumers exactly where his honey comes from. With every sweet sample given out, Yokoyama describes how his trucks loaded with hives head out each spring to pollinate orchards up and down the country. âThis one is very good for the throat,â he says, pointing to a dark brown honey produced from bees working soba fields. Another honey, a pale gold, is harvested
only once a year from a forest hive of native honeybees after they feast on the blossoms of the yamazakura (mountain cherry). The sweet-andsour taste is as unexpected as it is addictive. Monthly themes center around regions and seasonal produce making each market unique. A collection of food trucks, too, offers fresh, tasty treats when the shopping is done. Hokuro, Urth Café, TofuTofu, and Heart C. all offer delightful takes on the season as they make use of fresh vegetables for their primary ingredients. Regular childrenâs activities and a series of NPO tents mean there is something for the whole family to do and learn about while searching for a new favorite vegetable or jam. Market of The Sun Open: Second Saturday and Sunday of the month 10a.m. â 5p.m. Nearest Station: Kachidoke, Exit 4a/4b
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GlobalWheels
Trading the Big Top for the Open Road
Y
oung adults are ditching traditional vacation destinations to travel the world on their own terms. Frenchman Jeremie Coulbeaux is one of them. In 2013, the 30-year-old from Toulouse embarked on a world tour with a bike, a flute and 6,000 euros. âI come from a family of four generations of circus performers and musicians,â Coulbeaux explains. During the Algerian War, his motherâs side escaped to France and started a family band in Paris called Les Globetrotter de la Chanson. Today, as Coulbeaux cycles from country to country, he gives flute performances to make extra cash while giving free English lessons. With such a colorful background, he knew he had to travel and satisfy his love of nature and history and decided on a world cycling tour. After studying drums and flute in music school, he continued learning, taking classes in survival and first aid training to get ready for his adventure.
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Beginning in France, Coulbeaux pedaled his way through Europe, then continued down to the Middle East and into Asia. Most of the money he makes busking is spent on food. âIâve been fortunate to have been hosted by kind people: policemen, the army, Couchsurfers,â says Coulbeaux. âIâve stayed at mosques, Jewish temples and churches. But most nights while traveling, I sleep in my tent and feed myself through fishing, hunting or eating insects.â Weathering extreme heat and cold, droughts, tropical rains, altitude sickness, storms and typhoons, Coulbeaux has had his share of terrifying moments. While spending a month in an Indian rainforest jungle, Coulbeaux had a near-death experience. âI was alone and set up traps every night to catch squirrels and pigs for food,â he says. âOne night, a small creature got caught and started crying, which woke up the rest of the jungle. Monkeys were screaming, birds were
screeching. Then all of a sudden, there was dead silence and I heard footsteps. I peeked outsideâŠand a leopard was standing there, staring at my tent. I thought I was about to die.â Thankfully, the leopard left him alone, so Coulbeaux could resume his journey before taking a short break in China and then continuing on to South Korea. In Pusan, he jumped a ferry for Fukuoka in southern Japan and followed the coast north, touring the Seto Inland Sea. He jammed with his Couchsurfer host in Kyoto and even caught a meteor shower near Mt. Yufu in Beppu. âIâve always loved Japanese culture and music, and I think thatâs reflected in my music,â says Coulbeaux, who spent a year in Tokyo in his early 20s and has relatives there. âIn any country, you have to learn the customs and manners,â Coulbeaux says. Japan does not have a hitchhiking culture, so it can be harder for backpackers traveling on a shoestring budget, but Coulbeaux hasnât had a problem getting around. âJapan, especially in the countryside, has been very good to me. In the countryside, it
T
hereâs a special freedom and enjoyment that comes from exploring a new city or the countryside by bicycle. Cycling helped U.K. native Gareth McCready discover new spots he would have never found by car or train. It can be difficult and expensive to bring a bike on international flights and carry it as you travel, but a small company in Kansai is trying to make it easier for travelers in Japan to enjoy some human-powered transportation. Gareth and his friend and business partner, Ian Michie, launched Globalwheels, a road and touring bicycle rental service to help visitors in Japan create their own twowheeled adventures. âWeâre both getting older and wanted to start an independent project,â McCready says. âI love Japan, cycling and adventure and wanted to share this with other people.â With almost 20 million tourists visiting each year, Japan is experiencing significant tourism growth, but many visitors only see Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka. âWeâre trying to get people to go places which donât get many visitors,â McCready explains. One of his favorite routes is a halfday ride to lesser-known Minoh in northern Osaka to Katsuoji Temple. After recommending it to a customer, he received feedback that the route was more enjoyable than the usual advertised trips around Kyoto and Osaka. Although Global Wheels launched in February of 2016, it has already attracted a number of travelers, backpackers and outdoor enthusiasts, both foreign and local. âWe ask our customers to send us their
measurements, so we can best fit our bikes,â McCready says. The bicycles include hybrid road and city bikes for leisurely cruising and, for more serious road biking, the Scott Speedster S45, GT GTR Series 2, and Felt F85. There are no childrenâs bicycles available. Using the online social network Strava, they map and recommend routes for customers to follow. For interested cyclists traveling outside the Kansai region, nationwide shipping to your accommodation is available. âWe send our bikes using standard takyubin shipping in a box and oftentimes communicate directly with our customersâ accommodation hosts to make the process easier,â McCready explains. âAll our customers need to do when theyâre done with their trip is send back the bikes in the box. We can send boxes along with the bikes or to their final accommodation destination. Weâre looking at ways to keep this as painless as possible with smooth shipping and low costs. Luckily weâve had success with it so far.â Globalwheels already ships bikes throughout Japan, but McCready has his eyes set on a worldwide service. âAfter all, it is called Globalwheels,â he laughs. Globalwheels Road Bike Rental Address: 1-16-11 Temma, Kita-ku, Osaka 530-0043 E-mail: hello@globalwheels-japan.com Tel: 080-3864-0421 (every day between 8 a.m. and 9 p.m.) Web: www.globalwheels-japan.com
feels easier and more natural to talk to people and share stories. Iâve been taken in by a few people here as well.â Jeremie plans to fly to San Francisco to continue his journey through North and South America. He has a few plans once he returns to France, including publishing books on his travels, concentrating on his music and promoting ecologically friendly living. To follow his travels, visit his Facebook page at www.facebook.com/jeremsWorldTour. âRie Miyoshi
AUTUMN 2016
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Cycling Japan:
A JOURNEY TO EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL LIFE ãµã€ã¯ãªã³ã°Ì¶ããã¯
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ROUTE
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By Takashi Niwa Translated by Sakae Sugahara
NIIGATA PREFECTURE
#
OKUTADAMI
GOAL!
â CYCLING THROUGH AUTUMNâS FINEST COLORS
FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE
START!
GUNMA PREFECTURE
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TOCHIGI PREFECTURE
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<Cycling Notes>
Circles denote areas with overnight accommodation. · Aizu Kogen Ozeguchi Station (Yagan Tetsudo/Aizu Railways): Start 0 km. · Hinoemata Village: 47 km. â Miike Highlands: 59.3 km. · · Ginzandaira Basin: 125 km. â · Ouyu Onsen: 144 km. â · Urasa Station (Joetsu Shinkansen): 164 km. âå°ã¯å®¿æ³å¯èœãšãªã¢
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Cycle through an autumn dream. 倢ã®ãããªãµã€ã¯ãªã³ã°ãããã«ãã
J
apan in autumn is a sight to behold, and there are many cycling routes that allow you to take in the beautiful autumn foliage. Iâve chosen one which goes across the border between Fukushima and Niigata prefectures through an area called Miike, which can be best recognized as the northern entrance to Oze. The surrounding virgin forest is made up of buna (beech) and other trees that are breathtakingly beautiful. A side, roundtrip ride to Numayama-toge Pass is highly recommended. The route is located in all but the widest part of Honshu Island. It cuts deep into the mountains and is sparsely populated. Due to heavy snowfall, the 100-kilometer section from
the village of Hinoemata to the spa town of Ouyu Onsen has no other year-round settlements. You may occasionally spot huts for commuting farmers who grow vegetables and collect edible wild plants in the non-snow season, and stands catering to sightseers, but not many. Cycling this route requires not only physical strength to pedal the distance, but also skills and tools to fix mechanical troubles, if any occur, on your bike as well as preparedness in securing and carrying necessary food and drink. Autumn leaves on the route are best in mid-October. Including time needed for transportation to and from the start and finish, a three-day itinerary with overnight stays at hot springs is recommended.
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Takashi Niwa actively organizes guided tours around the world, from the back alleys of Tokyo to remote villages in Tibet. He has authored many books including âOtona no Tame no Jitensha NyÅ«monâ (Nihon Keizai Shinbun Shuppansha). His company, Niwa Cycling Tours (www.ncycling.com) organizes tours in Japan and around the world. ïŒã«ããµã€ã¯ãªã³ã°ãã¢ãŒãºïŒwww.ncycling.comïŒ ã䞻宰ããæ±äº¬ã®è·¯å°è£ã 䞹矜éå¿ïŒã«ã ãããïŒ ããããããŸã§ãå°çäžã®ã©ãããã¬ã€ãã ã倧人ã®ããã®èªè»¢è»å ¥éã(æ¥æ¬çµæžæ°èåºç瀟å)㪠ã©èæžå€æ°ã
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BEER BUZZ By Justin Stein
Have Beer? Will Travel Vancouver, British Columbia
M
any of our readers already know that Vancouver, Canada, is a great urban base for outdoor activities. This beautiful city is surrounded by water and mountains that offer excellent ocean sports, winter sports, hiking, mountain biking and more. Vancouver is also quietly becoming a premier North American beer destination. The website BeerMeBC.com lists more than 60 breweries in the greater Vancouver area, with two areas of particularly high concentration. Brewery Creek is a historic site for local beer production, dating back to Vancouver Brewery, which was the largest on the Pacific Coast when it opened its doors in 1888. The surrounding Mount Pleasant neighborhood went through a lot of ups and downs in the years since, but it is currently in a renaissance, and there are six breweries within a block or two of an eight-block stretch of Main Street. These include 33 Acres Brewing with a variety of solid traditional-style beers, Red Truck Beer whose flagship is an awardwinning amber ale, the cozy and tasty Brassneck Brewery and the spacious Main Street Beer, with a wide variety of brews in the historic Vancouver Brewery building. The even more up-and-coming brewery neighborhood is near the hip and popular Commercial Drive (or âThe Driveâ) in the East Vancouver area. There are so many breweries there (10 and growing) that locals have started calling it âYeast Van.â The neighborhoodâs best-known brewery is Parallel 49, founded by three guys who grew up in the neighborhood. âP-49â served delicious seasonals while I was there, including a kettle sour with apricots called Apricotopus (6.3%) and a very balanced IPA called Dumb Funk (6.8%), brewed with a âwildâ yeast called Trois whose fruity esters perfectly complement the hops. Also of note is the âco-working brewery incubatorâ Callister Brewing Company, which hosts four breweries in the same space. Vancouver rents are very high, so this collaborative approach allows emerging professional brewers to get in the game before being able to afford their own space. When I was there, the tap highlights were Terryâs Orange Chocolate Ale (5.3%) from Lightheart Brewing and The Technique (4%), a barrel-aged golden sour from Boombox Brewing Company. I spoke with a couple of the brewers there who really appreciated the ability to grow their brand and work on pro equipment before
making the leap to their own facilities. There are lots of breweries tak ing advantage of the cheaper rents on the outskirts of town. Four Winds Brewing Company opened in Delta in 2013 and became known nationally two years later when it won Brewery of the Year at the 2015 Canadian Brewing Awards. Their standard beers are all quite good, but their award-winning seasonals are excellent, especially their barrel-aged saison Operis (7%), a tripel made with wild sage honey called Triplicity (9%), and the dry-hopped sour Nectarous (5.5%), named Beer of the Year at the 2016 CBAs. Of particular interest to our readers is Fuggles and Warlock Craftworks, which just opened a production facility in Richmond last year after doing contract and collaboration work. The founders grew up in the Steveston Village area of Richmond, which has a big Japanese population from the fishing industry, and the head brewer and his wife (who designs the Japan-inspired labels) are both of Japanese background. Moreover, all the founders self-identify as âgeeksâ or otaku, and their love of video games and anime make their brand quite distinctive. The Last Strawberry (4.9%) is a Belgian white beer brewed with strawberries and lactose to give it a sweet fruitiness that plays very well with the wheat and spice notes and make the beer a great complement to pancakes or dessert. Its anime-inspired label is very kawaii. Their summer seasonal was a delicious plum sour called Kiwami (6.3%), packaged with a gold calligraphy label to look like high-end sake, a style they first explored with a collaboration dry-hopped sour called Hikari (7.2%). If you canât get around to all the breweries, there are a number of great beer bars to sample the goods from the region. The Alibi Room in the historic Gastown neighborhood in the heart of the city might be the best and emphasizes excellence and localness in both the tap selection (which also has some from just south of the border) and on the food menu. On the Drive, check out St. Augustineâs (owned by the P-49 guys) for more than 60 excellent rotating taps and BierCraft for a mix of BC and Belgian beers and a Belgian-inspired menu including delicious mussels. So, next time someone brings up the incredible skiing, hiking, kite surfing or mountain biking in coastal BC, you can add, âI hear the beer is really good too.â
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From the Fish Market to the World Market By Rie Miyoshi
From back porch home-brewing to a state-of-the-art sustainableminded brewery on the Izu Peninsula, Baird Beer has grown up continuing to play an important role in growing the appreciation for craft beer in Japan while staying true to their mission to making honest, minimally processed beer.
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AUTUMN 2016
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From the Fish Market to the World Market
âI
was just a beer-loving rugby player,â Bryan Baird laughs. âIâve always loved beer.â Back in the mid-1990s, when ji-biru (craft beer) was de-regulated in Japan, there was a relatively short craft brew boom around the nation. The craft brewery count quickly jumped from zero to 275, but as mediocre beer started spilling into the market, the craft beer bubble had fizzled out by 1997. âJapan is a sophisticated place where mediocre beer canât endure,â Bryan explains. Like many young people arriving in Japan for a postuniversity adventure, Bryan came to Japan as a JET, the government-sponsored program to promote native English teaching in public schools in Japan. He fell in love with the country immediately, and not long after, his future wife Sayuri. He was especially impressed with Japanâs emphasis on craftsmanship. Realizing brewing beer had been de-regulated, he believed Japan could be a fertile market for small, craft brewers who focused on quality. In 2000, Bryan and his wife opened a small brew pub in the fishing port town of Numazu in Shizuoka Prefecture. With Sayuri handling the food, Baird was freed to focus on his passion, making good beer with a tiny home-brewing apparatus in 30-liter batches in an old Hoff-Stevens keg. In a little more than 15 years, Baird Beer has grown from a husband-and-wife brewery to a nationally recognized and distributed craft beer with several tap rooms in Tokyo and Yokohama, and a new brewery that distributes to selected international craft beer-loving markets. âYou know how they say, âIf you build it, they will come?â Well, we built it, and very few people came,â Baird recalls, struggling the first few years in Numazu before expanding to Tokyo. Business took off in 2003. They continued to brew out of Shizuoka while sending their bottled beers first to the city, then nationwide and eventually overseas. In 2005, they expanded to a thousandliter brewery. Growing while maintaining quality, integrity and trust with craft beer enthusiasts is a balancing act, but Bryan and the Baird family manage to stay true to their core values while keeping deep roots in Shizuoka where Baird Beer was born. âRural Japan is aging, itâs de-populated,â Bryan says. In 2014, after being courted by the Izu City government, Baird
moved south into the beautiful Izu Peninsula to Shuzenji, a hot spring resort town on the way to southern Izuâs famous white-sand beaches and surf breaks. Shuzenji is now home to Baird Beerâs impressive new brewery (although they kept the original taproom in Numazu), and locals are thrilled to see them building their business here. Perhaps most striking about the Baird Brewery is the zero-waste approach they have taken to the brewing process. Spent grain, hops and yeast are brought to mulch facilities. Ingredients are locally and organically grown without pesticides from neighboring farmland and orchards. Ten percent of the electricity comes from solar panels, and Baird hopes to one day run completely off the grid. Theyâve also built a wastewater treatment facility. After treatment, the water is cleaner than the clear nearby river water. This water will also be used for irrigation in the future and, as part of the âOne Percent for the Planetâ initiative, Baird Brewery donates to the National Conservation Society of Japan for every bottle of Shuzenji Heritage Helles sold. âBeer is about agriculture,â says Baird. âItâs tied to the land and nature, because thatâs where itâs from. Our goal is to create minimally processed beer in a beautiful place while enhancing the environment and making intimate connections.â Standing on the banks of Kano River, the brewery is flanked by hills, rice paddies and a quiet village. Originally a KOA Campground, the land around the brewery will soon offer camping and cabins for craft beer friends old and new who want to visit the brewery and the on-site Shuzenji Gardens Taproom. If youâd like to take a brewery tour, finishing off with a fresh pint of beer at the taproom (or a few bottles to take home), tours are available daily, but check the website for times. If you have enjoyed Baird for years, as you walk along the hallway, youâll see the familiar artwork designed for Baird beer labels by Eiko Nishida, an artist and family friend. âWe have different artwork for all our beers,â Sayuri Baird points out. âAll our beers have a different style and history we want to share with our customers. The artwork helps get them interested.â Today, the Japan beer scene is facing a new boom. There are still fewer than 2,000 licensed craft breweries in Japan, but craft beer pubs are growing as Japanese beer drinkers get a taste for the good stuff. †AUTUMN 2016
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Baird Beer By Bryan Harrell
S
oon after Baird Beer was founded, it rapidly established a reputation as one of the best microbreweries in Japan. Not only was the beer line-up of very high quality, but also the original selection of six year-round beers had two slightly unusual twists in the form of Red Rose Amber Ale and Angry Boy Brown. Red Rose Amber Ale is aged for a while at lower temperatures, giving it a distinctive crisp and dry character. Angry Boy Brown Aleâs strong malt character and riot-like hop profile compete for your attention as they
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highlight the original interplay between malt sweetness and hop bitterness. Both beers remained my favorite until the addition of Suruga Bay Imperial IPA to the selection some years later. Personally, these three beers all offer tons of character, yet are distinctively different in terms of style and flavors. At present, the year-round selection has increased to 12 beers, including a low-alcohol âsession ale,â a wheat ale, two lagers and a Japanese Pale Ale. Along with this growing number of year-round brews, Baird has kept busy by brewing a surprising variety of
interesting special edition beers which change with the seasons. Their seasonal brewing is organized into four series; the monthly style series, the fruitful life series, the brewerâs passion series and the four seasons series. In the monthly style series, favorites include Ganko Oyaji Barley Wine, Brewerâs Nightmare Rye IPA and Four Sisters Spring Bock. In the fruitful life series, The Carpenterâs Mikan Ale is perhaps the most famous fruit beer and should not be missed, while Temple Garden Yuzu Ale and Japan Tale Ale (with ume) are worthy of note. The four seasonâs beers include the highly recommended
From the Fish Market to the World Market
Saison Sayuri in Spring and the Yabai-Yabai Strong Scotch Ale in the fall. The brewerâs passion series is perhaps the hardest to catch, so to keep pace with releases, you should subscribe to the Baird Beer Voice newsletter. . It is both the tremendous variety of Baird Beer and its overall high level of quality that truly sets it apart from most other craft beer in Japan. While a few brewers offer some beers that approach Baird standards, it cannot be said for their entire line. Those living in Tokyo and Yokohama can drink Baird at one of the Baird Taprooms. Plus, no matter where you live in
Japan, it is easy to order Baird Beer for home delivery, either by Yahoo Shopping or Rakuten. For details, and to sign up for the newsletter, check the Baird website at www.bairdbeer.com.
Baird Taprooms Bairdâs original Fishmarket Taproom (and site of the original brewery) is in the sleepy fishing town of Numazu in Shizuoka. Since then, they have opened taprooms in NakaMeguro and Harajuku in Tokyo, Bashamichi in Yokohama and at their new brewery in Shuzenji in Shizuoka. Their
newest taproom recently opened in Takadanobaba. The taprooms offer fresh, minimally processed craft cuisine, with each focusing on a unique take on delicious meats to pair with their great beers. The Takadanobaba Taproom specializes in kushiage (skewers of fried meat and vegetables), while the Harajuku Taproomâs specialty is yakitori. The Naka-Meguro Taproom offers New Haven-style pizza, while the Yokohama Taproom specializes in traditional American-style barbecue. For details and locations. visit www.bairdbeer.com/en/tap/index.html
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THE RECKLESS OPTIMISTâS NEXT PHASE
AN INTERVIEW WITH
TRAVIS RICE ã€ã³ã¿ãã¥ãŒïŒ ãã©ãã¹ã»ã©ã€ã¹ ç¡éç ²ãªãªããã£ãã¹ãã«ããæ°æ¬¡å ã®æ ç» By Gardner Robinson
âOnce Travis has an idea in his head, itâs really hard for him to let it go,â understates one of his cohorts in âThe Fourth Phase.â Travis Riceâs new film recently premiered in Tokyo to a packed house. The film charts the hydrological cycle across the Pacific Ocean to Japan and beyond and marks the next step in filmmaking for him and his Brain Farm crew, which follows the tracks laid by âThe Art of Flight,â and then turns inward. ãäžåºŠããã£ãŠãã©ãã¹ãå¿ã«æ±ºããããæ¢ããããšã¯ã ãã«ãã§ããªããã ̶ã The Fourth Phase ã ã§ã圌ã®ä»²éã®èšèã ãã©ãã¹ã»ã©ã€ã¹ã®æ°äœæ ç»ã®ãã¬ãã¢ãæºåžã«ãªã£ãæ±äº¬ã®åå Žã§ãããªãããã ãã®æ ç»ãæãããšããããŒãã¯å€ªå¹³æŽã®æ°ŽåŸªç°ã ãåäœã The Art of Flight ã ãã倧ããªé£èºãéãã ãã©ãã¹ã»ã©ã€ã¹ã«ä»ã®å¿å¢ã圌ã®æ®åœ±ã¯ã«ãŒãBrain Farmã«ã€ããŠã€ã³ã¿ãã¥ãŒãè©Šã¿ãã
RIDER: TRAVIS RICE IN JACKSON PHOTO: TIM ZIMMERMAN / RED BULL CONTENT POOL
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âLIFE IS WATER DANCING TO THE TUNE OF SOLIDS. WITHOUT THAT DANCE, THERE COULD BE NO LIFE.â
ââGERALD H. POLLACK, THE FOURTH PHASE OF WATER: BEYOND SOLID, LIQUID, AND VAPOR
AUTUMN 2016
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âI HAVE NOT FIGURED OUT HOW âTO SEPARATE RECKLESS âOPTIMISM FROM A HEALTHY âAPPETITE TO PURSUE âSOMETHING UNTIL âIT BECOMES IMPOSSIBLE.â âââTRAVIS RICE G Your dad was ski patrol in Jackson Hole growing up, so when did you first strap in sideways? T Actually, I think it was my mom who took me skiing first, but my dad was ski patrol there, and I grew up skiing. I was 12 or 13 when I started snowboarding. I always consider myself a skier at heart; thatâs how I learned to look at the mountain. For me, skiing or snowboarding, it really doesnât matter. Personally I just much prefer snowboarding. I have more fun doing it; just that aesthetic of a turn. I think thatâs really the biggest thing, the root of why I snowboard instead of ski, the nuanced beauty of the art of the turn. You can spend your lifetime working on the transition from heelside to toeside on a snowboard. I love it. You can put in a lot of effort and fine tune your ski turn, but itâs just too easy on skis. G Back in 2003 I remember seeing you atop the podium, spraying the crowd at the Tokyo Dome, thinking, âThis kid is having a good time.â T Yeah, the Tokyo Dome Big Air contest (in 2003) was my first trip to Japan. I think I won it with a double back or something. Those events were fun. I was underaged, like 19 or 20, and going over to Japan in the very beginning was insane. It was amazing. Then, when I finally got to go ride the mountains in Japan, it blew my mind. Over the last 10 years, Iâve gone up to the north island a lot. Hit all the main resorts and did a lot of
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roadside backcountry hiking. I know thereâs so much we havenât seen or touched up there, but it was a blast. Since then, Iâm definitely into the 20s or so as far as trips to Japan.
the North Pacific. We were just following the natural energy cycle, and its first stop really was Japan. Whatâs important to you when choosing your crew? I think it mostly comes down to trying to align with people who are down with a mission and will bring optimism. Inevitably itâs always a set-up; you go somewhere, bring your own expectations, you think you have an idea of what you want to do but then the minute you get there everything changes, so trying to work with people who are able to ride in a lot of different conditions, sub-par conditions, people who are able to make the most of any situation. G
Why was Japan such an important part of your latest film, âThe Fourth Phase?â T I knew I wanted to shoot in Japan early on. Years ago, we did a Japan segment in âThe Community Project,â and at the time I felt it was one of the better Japan segments ever captured. Going back to Japan, we really wanted to do it justice, spend the time and effort to bring a legitimate representation of the riding over there, the culture, the landscape; youâve been over there for a long time, itâs a special place. What I really like about it is you kind of get out of it what you put into it. Itâs not really set up to just come and have everything at your fingertips. We really had to put in the time and effort to capture what we got. We wanted to do a little more, but itâs nice to leave something on the table as well. The film is about water, the relationship to water and the hydrological processes that bring our weather to North America. Itâs funny because Japan is on the other side of the Pacific, but itâs an essential part of the process. We wanted to follow the North Pacific Gyre, and one of the main currents is the Kuroshio. The gyre has all that heat energy as it travels west across the Pacific, then hits a bank and gets thrust north, barrels into Japan and continues to G
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G Instead of Hokkaido, this time you spent all your time in the Japan Alps. Why is that? T I did so much research on the mountains down there and, in this day and age with all the tools at your fingertips, it didnât take long to figure out the lay of the land. I realized pretty quickly just how big and aggressive some of the mountains were down in Nagano Prefecture, which is where we spent most of our time for the new film. It was just on a whole other level, getting to experience and ride that terrain. We spent a fair amount of time in the Hakuba Valley. So many resorts have great access, but we ventured out too, we did some driving, some exotic roadside hiking and did a couple of big missions to some really incredible, straight-up peaks that reminded me of Alaska-style terrain.
AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE
RIDER: MARK LANDVIK PHOTOS: MIKE YOSHIDA
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29
âLET THE FIRE BURN.â ââTRAVIS RICE
I was pretty blown away by how vast and aggressive the terrain is in the Japanese Alps. Youâre looking up at peaks, and itâs like Alaska seeing all kinds of amazing stuff that looks ridable, but itâs 70 percent death defying; only a small percentage really goes. Thereâs a ton of terrain traps, some of the most terrain trapped mountains Iâve ridden, and just how some of those massive mountains and drainages work, you got to be on it. You really have to be on it to ride here. You get so much snow, and the weather changes all the time. It can be as good as it gets, but you have to work for it, you have to earn it. G Were there any specific challenges you faced filming in Japan? T We worked with so many good people. We did all this night shooting, and the resorts graciously allowed us to shoot, but there were all these rules and regulations. Theyâd be super helpful one day, but the next day we couldnât get any help at all. It was always this funny dance. They wanted to help us out, but they had no idea how to deal with a crew as big as ours and our demands. I think at times they got a bit overwhelmed by our massive production. It got pretty adventurous for Jared Slater, our aerial filmer. He was trying to communicate with our helicopter pilot who didnât speak any English. They came up with six or seven key words. It is pretty difficult to capture snowboarding with normal communication, but on top of that, this guy had
30
T R AV E L E R
a little speaker in his helicopter just pumping electronic dance music while we were filming. Other than that, I actually enjoyed getting lost in Japanâs backroads, finding myself in a wasabi farm. It was snowing, and all these guys are working in the river. Iâve been to Japan so many times, but I still constantly stumble across things that are so foreign to me. How did you and Shin (Biyajima) hook up? I knew Shin a little bit early on, but itâs funny because where I really met Shin, and where he made a strong impression on me, was in Jackson Hole. I sledded back to a secret zone way deep in the Jackson backcountry to some freeriding. I got out there and followed some snowmobile tracks figuring itâs just some snowmobilers. I get way back in there and come around the corner and see two snowboard tracks and am like, holy s**t, thereâre some people riding back here. Iâd never seen anyone else riding back there, and it turned out to be Shin, his buddy from Jackson and Lance Pitman. Thereâs this one cliff thatâs pretty big, but had a fairly flat landing. I was thinking thereâs no way you can land off that, but when I went back around and watched him do this line, he came down, aired this little cliff and lined up for the big one, and I was like, no way, and watched him air, kick out this massive method and then stomp the s**t out of it. I was like, who the f**k is this guy! G T
Shin rides down with this big olâ Japanese grin and giggle and Iâm like what? Two years later, when I started planning the trip, I knew Shin was from the Hakuba area, and I didnât want to come film in Japan without a Japanese rider. Shin had the time and availability, and it worked out perfect. G You guys swung through Nozawa Onsen for Dosojin Matsuri. What were your impressions of the fire festival? T I really appreciated the genuine honesty of it. Iâm not sure how pumped the locals are that the cat is out of the bag, widely covered with all the foreigners showing up, and itâs probably not going to help us putting a bit into our film, but I thought it was incredible and really appreciated seeing people getting some emotions off their chest. I didnât fully comprehend everything that was going on, but you had a sense this was a night when people were not leaving anything on the table, a night to get the skeletons out of your closet and move forward. I really liked that aspect of it. G For the men of the village, if itâs their year, itâs one of the biggest nights of their lives. The village is talking about cracking down on buses coming in just for the festival, which is probably a good idea. Jimmy (Chin) had his hands full trying to direct things once you all entered the mayhem. T The timing worked out great because Jimmy only had
AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE
âJAPAN IS THE SNOWIEST PLACE ON EARTH.â ââTRAVIS RICE
RIDER: SHIN BIYAJIMA PHOTO: MIKE YOSHIDA
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RIDER: TRAVIS RICE PHOTO: MIKE YOSHIDA
âHE BECAME THE RIDER I ENVISIONED I COULD BE.â ââBRYAN IGUCHI
32
T R AV E L E R
â&#x20AC;&#x2030;AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE
AUTUMN 2016
33
âDISCOVERY CONSISTS OF SEEING WHAT EVERYBODY HAS SEEN AND THINKING WHAT NOBODY HAS THOUGHT.â
ââGERALD H. POLLACK, THE FOURTH PHASE OF WATER: BEYOND SOLID, LIQUID, AND VAPOR
two months to spend with us at the beginning. It was nice to have some of his direction. Heâs such an international celebrity these days, he didnât have the bandwidth to solely direct the project, so we were pumped with the amount of time Jimmy had to put into it. He spent some time in Russia with us as well. How many GoPros did you guys destroy? We destroyed or lost a lot of GoPros but got a lot of incredible POV footage. In the beginning, some of the camera systems we were using were so new they werenât on the market yet and had Beta software. We had a lot of challenges getting camera systems to work that were experimental. Iâve got to give a lot of credit to the crew who spent so much time and effort getting it right. G T
G Weather being a central theme, I guess itâs fitting you had a lot thrown at you. T Pretty much everywhere we went we had crazy weather. I think Russia was probably one of the toughest places for us weatherwise, but even Alaska, the last three years have been somewhat subpar when you look at historically how Alaska can shape up. We had challenges the whole way through, but if it was easy, everyone would be doing it, right? G People might be surprised to hear you spend a lot of time on the water, but what drew you to sailing?
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T R AV E L E R
T My dad really wanted to learn how to sail and, when I was 16, he became a quarter partner in this small, 24-foot trimaran. Three weeks a year, Iâd go with him and weâd sail from Florida out around the Bahamas. I did that for a bunch of years and, in the meantime, I was picking up surfing, which I also fell in love with. Then I was like, man, to combine the two would be perfect. I find I enjoy myself most on those days when itâs just me and a couple close friends away from it all. True human interaction in a day when we are all spread so thin. Over the past six years, my girlfriend and I live on our boat two or three months a year. Itâs just one of our seasonal homes at this point.
Do you find similarities between being deep in the mountains and the sea? T Being out on the ocean seems like a different world to being in the mountains and the backcountry, but there is also a lot of symmetry. They each have their own biorhythms from a motherly embrace to tempestuous wrath. What I love about being out in nature is that you are at the mercy of your own decision making. G
proud of them all. We couldnât have done this film without the other films pre-dating it and being part of the process. We needed to do âCommunity Projectâ to feel comfortable doing our own thing, and then âThatâs It Thatâs Allâ was this experiment with camera technology and shooting snowboarding a little differently. âArt of Flightâ was that dream of âThatâs it Thatâs Allâ realized. Then we didnât want to make an âArt of Flight 2,â so we stepped back and tried to take a different approach to create a more multi-faceted film. âThe Fourth Phaseâ has more of a storyline, and it was much more personal for me. Itâs probably the most personal project Iâve done, which changed the dynamic a little bit. Plus we were involving more than just snowboarding in the project. We were looking at weather and our relationships with weather. It goes to a few other places, and I donât want to spoil anything, so I wonât go into it, but itâs about a willingness to expose oneself a little bit more and share something openly and honestly. Itâs more than just landing tricks. Moving forward, this is just another stepping stone⊠And what is next? Whatâs next? I donât know. Right now, Iâm really interested in revamping the Supernatural contest, so Iâm going to put a lot of effort and energy into that going forward. The only thing Iâd say is that it would be really nice to have a venue stop in Japan someday. Japan would be perfect for it. †G T
G Now that âThe Fourth Phaseâ is in the books, do you look back at your past films any differently? T They were all just chapters in the book, stepping stones. Each was perfect for where we were at the time, and Iâm
AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE
The exclusive premier ofâThe Fourth Phaseâis set for Oct. 2 at 8:30 p.m. on Redbull TV (www.redbull.tv). You can pre-order the film on Blueray DVD or digital download from www.thefourthphase. com. Snowboarders and action film aficionados will want to grab a limited edition (only 3,000 printed, US$145) of the large-format s for sale book published with selected images from the film. Itâ at Asymbol (www.asymbol.co), Travisâart gallery for action sports artists and photographers. Copies are limited and will sell out long before Christmas.
TRAVIS HONING HIS FILLETING SKILLS AT TSUKIJI MARKET. PHOTO: JASON HALAYKO / RED BULL CONTENT POOL
ã€ã³ãã©ã¡ãŒã·ã§ã³ïŒãThe Fourth Phaseãã®ç¬å äžæ 㯠10æ2æ¥8:30pmã«Redbull TVïŒwww.redbull.tvïŒã§äžæ ãBluerayãDVDããããŠããžã¿ã«ã»ããŠã³ããŒãã®å è¡äºçŽã¯ www.thefourthphase.com. ãªãããããšãã£ã·ã§ã³ãåçé ä»ãã§3,000éšã®ã¿éå®è²©å£²ããããèå³ã®ããæ¹ã¯www.
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MIYAKOJIMA
Miyako Magic å®®å€ããžãã¯
Below the ocean surface lies a landscape littered with patches of coral reef, sandy areas and nudibranchs that light up against torches. Huge rocky structures with tunnels and arches plummet into the depths, the sunbeams streaming through them. Bonnie Waycott dives into a world of colorful marine life and limestone as she visits Okinawa's Miyakojima. ããã®æ°Žé¢äžã«ã¯ççãç å°ã ãããŠæŸæã«åå°ããŠå ã 裞é°é¡ã§ã¡ãã°ããããæ¯è²ãããã ãã³ãã«ãã¢ãŒããæã倧ããªå²©ã奥深ãã«è °ãæ®ãã ãã®ããã ãã倪éœã®å ãèŒããŠããã
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T R AV E L E R
AUTUMN 2016
37
BONNIE WAYCOTT
BONNIE WAYCOTT
DIVE KIDS
M
DIVE KIDS
any moons ago, the ocean worked its magic on Miyakojima, creating a haven of tunnels, arches and swim-throughs. During the summer, divers come to the island in droves for a glimpse of these limestone formations. It is 300 kilometers southwest of Okinawa's main island, and diving off Miyakojima is a journey into a world of colossal structures, a series of rocky outcrops and winding horizontal tunnels that open onto sandy areas or smaller coral reefs. Inhabited by some of the area's most vibrant creatures, the mixture of underwater topography, blue water and colorful reefs are a viable alternative to some of Okinawa's busier locations.
38
T R AV E L E R
Nakanoshima Channel With a 14-meter deep seabed and a collection of mediumsized boulders to start the dive, Nakanoshima Channel is ideal for spotting all manner of marine life. A narrow arch takes you down to around 18 meters, where it's clear this is a haven for a good range of fish and other critters. Around the rocky structures are schools of red soldier fish with huge black eyes, juvenile bi-color parrotfishes hovering gently close by and, as the seabed is sandy, it's possible to lie on the sand and watch tiny jawfish peering out from their lairs, waiting patiently for divers to move on or immediately disappearing if so inclined. This dive has a maximum depth of around 20 meters and offers a leisurely drift over a few sandy areas interspersed between rocky structures. Close by is the entrance to a small tunnel with promises of close encounters with a variety of smaller critters. Don't forget to use a flashlight when examining the
Miyako Magic rocky walls for vibrant sponges, corals, fans and even some urchins. More observant divers will notice the odd leaf scorpion fish or two tucked into the holes and hollows. As the dive draws to a close, a tiny bit of surge spits divers out of the tunnel to the other side, marking the start of a fun ascent with a range of colorful nudibranchs sticking to their rocky homes.
Hon Drop
Mini Grotto Mini Grotto is the perfect place to experience Miyakojima's rocky structures and tunnels in all their glory. While the miniature life is outstanding here, most divers visit for the tunnels, rocks and swim-throughs. A sloping seabed covered with boulders leads toward the deeper depths while turtles graze close by, unfazed by their audience and enjoying a meal off the rocky patches. At around 15 meters is a small tunnel where divers penetrate the darkness, flashlights in hand. It's worth taking time to look at the proliferation of nudibranchs that have made this area home. Soon the swim feels like an ascent as the surface of the water approaches with the sun streaming into the exit route, creating a spectacular scene. An eerie, blue glow in the distance gets brighter and, popping up above the water and breathing in the fresh sea air, it's possible to rest awhile in a small pool of crystalclear water and marvel at the colossal rocky structures all around. The return journey starts here via the same tunnel, descending once more into the depths, so divers visiting this site must have good ear-clearing skills. It may be dark and gloomy, but the diving doesn't get much better. Soon, shoals of chromis appear in the shallows, feeding on
drifting plankton, while free-swimming stout chromis and red snapper pass slowly by.
Mao no Kyuden Jump off the boat here, and a scene of boulders and overheads unfolds, followed by a labyrinth of tunnels. With just a few more fin kicks, more walls and rock formations. An air of mystery and anticipation fills the scene at Mao no Kyuden where several large chambers and tunnels appear linked together. Although an opening is never far away, it's not hard to lose one's bearings, making navigation here slightly difficult (don't lose sight of your guide). The site's deeper spots (around 25-27 meters) make it more suitable for advanced divers, while those who may be claustrophobic might want to avoid the narrower tunnels altogether. Dropping down to about five meters, a gentle slope leads to a wall at around 18 meters. Shoaling large-scale soldier fish are everywhere, while schools of sweepers swim in and out, joined by a few other species. The highlight of this site, however, is a tiny resident candy crab at around 21 meters. Wrapped around a piece of soft coral and wary of the flashlights around him, he lights up in shades of beige and pink. Next to the candy crab's home is an entrance up a long straight tunnel through a velvety blackness. Soon the tunnel's immense beauty reveals itself as the sun penetrates through, highlighting filefish and sweepers competing with each other for space, as well as an abundance of schooling fish. A wonderland of vibrant marine life adorns the famous limestone structures of Miyakojima's unique ecosystem. This stunning underwater landscape, combined with a wide range of fish and tiny critters inhabiting the waters, makes for magical recreational diving and heaven for underwater photographers. â€
DIVE KIDS
BONNIE WAYCOTT
DIVE KIDS
As its name suggests, this site is a daunting drop-off that rises from 35 meters to a plateau at eight meters. The dive begins down the wall to about 12 meters, where schools of reef fish mill around in the shallows, but the piÚce de résistance is a giant trevally that takes refuge in the rocky gullies and overhangs. When taking photos here, timing is crucial, as the giant trevally is gentle and shy, quickly moving away and out of sight with a flick of its tail. On good days it's possible to see three or four, but most divers are more than happy with just one. The current at this site can sometimes be mild, but this brings a range of fish to the area, while the sun bathes the area with prism-like ripples of light that skip across the rocks. This is a great site to cruise over a diverse range of marine lifeâit's the perfect site and amphitheater for curly anemones that house a variety of clownfish as well as the
odd black-spotted pufferfish seen finning away. Other patches close by provide some of the area's brightest sponges and nudibranchs. The fish life here may be less abundant, but the huge rocky structures keep divers entertained. It's also a good spot to enjoy relaxing macro photography.
AUTUMN 2016
39
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Miyako Magic PRACTICALITIES Getting There: Direct flights are available from Tokyo's Haneda Airport (2 œ to 3 hours). Getting Around: Hiring a car is the best way to explore Miyakojima. Most rental firms have an outlet at Miyako Airport, and driving on the island is easy and enjoyable. Bicycles and scooters are also available for rent. Climate: Mild and sometimes rainy winters and hot summers. Average temperature is around 24 C with the highest average around 32 C in summer. Water Temperature: This varies between 22-23 C in the winter to 28-33 C in the summer. A 5-mm wetsuit is best during the summer but a 7-mm or something warmer for the winter should work well. Accommodation: This varies greatly from modest pensions and traditional Japanese inns (minshuku) to western-style business hotels and resorts that are a little bit more expensive. Additional Info: The two main dive shops on the island are Dive Kids (Web: www.divekids.jp/a/frame1.htm) and Kara Kara Sensei Diving (Web: www.cosmos.ne.jp/~karakara/). Kara Kara Sensei Diving can arrange diving and accommodation packages. Please note Dive Kids and Kara Kara Sensei Diving don't speak much English and can only answer basic English e-mail inquiries. If you don't speak Japanese and want to dive off Miyakojima, Bonnie is happy to provide information about travel details. E-mail bonniewaycott@gmail.com or visit the Rising Bubbles Facebook Page at www.facebook.com/RisingBubblesNotesOfANewDiver.
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KARA KARA SENSEI DIVING
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bonniewaycott@gmail.com å®ãŠã«ã¡ãŒã«ã§åãåããããããã§ã€ã¹ããã¯ã§ the Rising Bubbles Facebook Page ïŒwww.facebook.com/RisingBubblesNotesOfANewDiver ïŒ
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apan is one of the most plugged-in nations in the world. There arenât many places in this fiber-optic country where you are truly out of touch. Even on top of iconic Mt. Fuji, you can send a post card to friends or family. So it should not be much of a surprise that many mountain huts in Japan are equipped with modern conveniences such as bathing facilities, hot meals (and cold beer), even satellite TV, computers and WiFi. Then there is Komanokoya. A rare relic that gets down to basics and is refreshingly unconnected.
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AIZU UNPLUGGED:
KOMANOKOYA äŒæŽ¥é§ã¶å²³ ïŒé§ã®å°å±ïŒ
By Pauline Kitamura æïŒããŠãªãŒã»ãã¿ã ã©â èš³ïŒæãªã§ãŠ
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Located high along the ridgeline near the peak of Mt. Aizukomagatake (2,132 meters) in Fukushima Prefecture, this rustic mountain hut requires guests to leave their creature comforts at home and unplug from their hectic modern lives. The only way to get to Komanokoya is via a three-and-a-half-to-four-hour hike with an elevation gain of more than 1,100 meters. There are no cars, gondolas or motorized short cuts. Everyone who visits Komanokoya must do it the oldfashioned way, one step at a time.
The path starts off steep through a beautiful forest with occasional peek-a-boo views of the valley below. As you get closer to the top, however, it suddenly opens to sweeping mountain vistas and vast alpine meadows. From here itâs just another short climb up to Komanokoya. What makes this mountain hut special, and popular (it books out months in advance), is that it has no modern conveniences such as electricity or running water. This is a high-altitude getaway where people come to leave it all behind and bring with them what they need.
The two-story black wooden building has two large sleeping quarters upstairs and a sitting area downstairs where guests can gather and cook their own meals. There are futons and warm blankets for guests to use, so sleeping bags arenât needed. The washrooms are located in a separate building outside of the main hut and, while primitive in terms or âtechnology,â they are immaculately clean with toilet paper provided. Thereâs no running water but rainwater is gathered and made freely available to guests (and for a small fee for
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day visitors) who can boil the water for their meals and the next dayâs hike back down. Thereâs even a small shop inside where you can buy handmade souvenirs and crafts, unique T-shirts sold only to those whoâve made the climb up to the hut, plus snacks and drinks (beer is available during the colder seasons). The truly special moments at this mountain hut are when the sun starts to fall and darkness sets in. The only light comes from the moon and stars in the sky and the warm glow of kerosene lamps lit throughout the hut every evening.
As you watch the flames flicker, it transports you back to a much simpler and peaceful time. Your internal clock tells you to sleep when the sun sets and wake up when it rises. Sayuri and Kazuhiro Miyoshi manage Komanokoya. The warm, wonderful couple fell in love with this beautiful mountain and the simple way of life. This is their ninth season up on Mt. Aizukomagatake where they mostly live throughout the year, coming down off the mountain only once or twice a week to take a bath and resupply. They have no refrigerator, no electric stoves, no
computers, no bathtubs or showers and, of course, no TV. Food and necessities are dropped in by helicopter two to three times during a season. The rest they carry up in their backpacks. It may not be the easiest way of life, but the simplicity of not having everything at your fingertips makes it special for them and their guests. The premier hiking on this long ridgeline is famous for alpine ponds and the abundance of flowers during the summer. Once you reach Komanokoya, youâll definitely want to take a hike up to the top of Mt. Aizukomagatake and, if
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you have enough time, take a quick jaunt out to the scenic Nakamondake, about a two-hour round trip walk. (Note: In May there may still be snow on the ground, so you might want to bring some lightweight crampons and trekking poles). Be sure to wake up early to catch the sunrise from outside the hut; you wonât want to miss it. Sometimes itâs nice to have convenience right at your fingertips but, if you can let it all go, even for just a weekend, youâll get hooked on the wonderful simplicity of the Komanokoya way of life. â€
Hiking Route Options & Times To Komanokoya Mountain Hut â¢â¢ From Komagatake trailhead: Approx. 3.5 hours â¢â¢ From Kirinte trailhead: Approx. 4.5 hours â¢â¢ From Ozemiike trailhead: Approx. 5.5 hours From Komanokoya Mountain Hut â¢â¢ To the top of Mt. Aizukomagatake: Approx. 20 minutes (round trip approx. 35 minutes) â¢â¢ To Nakamondake: Approx. 70 minutes (round trip approx. 2 hours, 15 minutes)
Komanokoya Mountain Hut Information The hut is open from the last Saturday of April until the last Saturday of October. Closed during the winter due to heavy snow. Mountain hut accommodation only. No tents allowed. The cost is ¥3,000 per person (no meals included, so be sure to bring your own food). Japanese-style futons and warm blankets are provided. This is a popular mountain hut, so hikers make reservations months in advance especially during the summer season. There are no other accommodation options on top of the mountain, so reservations are essential.
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Contact Information Tel: 080-2024-5375 (available until 7:20 p.m.) E-mail: info@komanokoya.com Website: www.komanokoya.com
Tobu Asakusa Station to Kinugawa Onsen Station. Transfer to the Aizu Mount Express train headed to Aizukougen-Ozeguchi Station. (Depart Asakusa 8:00 a.m. - Arrive Aizukouen-Ozeguchi 10:46 a.m.). From Aizukougen-Ozeguchi, take the 11 a.m. Aizu bus to Komagatake Tozanguchi bus stop (around 12:35 p.m.). From the bus stop, cross the road. Thereâs a public restroom as well as tap where you can fill up your water bottle. The trailhead is about a 30-minute walk up the paved road where there are public parking spaces available as well.
What to Bring â¢â¢ Rain jacket and pants â¢â¢ Warm clothes (fleece/down jacket), it can get cold up on the mountain at night and in the morning â¢â¢ Headlamp and spare batteries â¢â¢ Portable cooking stove and gas â¢â¢ Pots, cooking/eating utensils â¢â¢ Food (dinner, breakfast as well as snacks/lunch for during the hike) â¢â¢ Water (enough for the hike up; water for cooking and for the next day is available at the mountain hut)
E-mail: info@komanokoya.com
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Getting There From Tokyo Option 1: Take the rapid train from Tobu Asakusa Station (Tobu Kinugawa Line) to Aizukougen-Ozeguchi Station. (Depart Asakusa 6:20 a.m. - Arrive Aizukouen-Ozeguchi 9:25 a.m.). From Aizukougen-Ozeguchi, take the 9:50 a.m. Aizu bus to Komagatake Tozanguchi bus stop (around 11 a.m.). Option 2: Take the Special Rapid train (Kinu #103) from
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Islands of the Demon King ãã³ããŠã®å³¶
By Tim Rock & Elaine Kwok
Banner fish swirled around the huge body of this denizen of the deep, angelfish, wrasses and a few other fish also pecked at its skin. It hovered in the open blue, not far above the coral reef from where we calmly watched. One of the largest, oddest and rarest of sights in the sea, the mola mola (also called the ocean sunfish) cruises serenely by. Itâs hard to believe we are a boat ride away from the frenetic nightlife of Kuta and Legian. æ·±ãæµ·ã«çæ¯ãããã®å·šå€§ãªçç©ã®åšãã ãããŒãã£ãã·ã¥ãæ³³ãããšã³ãŒã«ãã£ãã·ã¥ã ãã©ãªã©ããã®èº«äœãã€ã€ããŠããã ãã®çã ãã®ã¯ãç§ãã¡ãéãã«èŠå®ããªãŒãããã»ã© è¿ãéã®ç©ºéã«æµ®ããã§ãããæµ·æŽçç©ã® äžã§ããšãã«çéãããŠããã¢ã©ã¢ã©ïŒãã³ã ãŠïŒ ãç©ããã«æ³³ãã§ããã ã¯ã¿ãã¬ã®ã¢ã³ã® ç±ççãªãã€ãã©ã€ããããããŒãã§æ¥ããã å Žæã ãšã¯ãã«ããã«ä¿¡ããããªãã£ãã
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B
ali beckons many travelers to its mystical, tropical shores, and among those who answer the call are divers. Bali has some great dive spots, but relatively few venture off the southeast coast to the three islands where some remarkable diving awaits. Here the currents run strong and the corals are healthy and varied. It is a great place for all kinds of diving, from wild drifts to sedate searches and seasonal infestations of the oceanic sunfish. Strange and shy, this huge pelagic beast is a rarity to see for reef-dwelling scuba divers. These islands are a secret no more to the diving community and offer regular encounters with manta rays as well. Huge, graceful and as odd-looking as the mola, mantas glide along the coast of Nusa Penida, the largest of the three islands. Rugged and inviting, Nusa Penida has little interior water, so most residents stay near the coast, leaving the big island and its towering cliffs to the gods. There isnât as much tourism as at nearby Nusa Lembongan, yet the treelined beaches and quiet villages flanking the islandâs sandy shores sit next to some of the richest reefs in the world. On the west end, the eerie white limestone coastline of Penida rises straight up from the sea in sharp foliagecovered cliffs. From the northwest shore you can see Gunung Agung, the majestic volcano ascending high into the clouds on Bali. Penidaâs wild terrain has been the inspiration for fables and myths. Balinese widely believe the island is the source of black magic and are careful what they say to the residents here. Natural disasters are said to have been caused by the giant demon king, Jero Gede Macaling, who hails from Nusa Penida.
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Nusa Lembongan is a small but popular day trip destination southwest of Nusa Penida. Once solely a surferâs haven, a boom of sorts is currently underway with fast ferries carrying large groups of people across the straits daily from Bali in less than an hour. Hotels, restaurants and modest homestays are sprouting up everywhere. A few dive services have set up shop on the island. These include World Diving, Bali Diving Academy and Bali Hai Diving Adventures. Diving from Lembongan beats the daily commute across the channel done by many dive shops on Bali. Sandwiched in between Penida and Lembongan is tiny Nusa Ceningan. A short foot bridge spans the narrow channel between the two islands. The nearby village is full of fishermen and seaweed farmers who work the nearby waters and inner reef flats. A few hotels and homestays overlook the sea on this once quiet isle. While demons are not beloved by Balinese, demon rays are a delight to divers. John Chapman of World Diving Lembongan absolutely loves mantas. Heâs been on Lembongan for years but gets as giddy as a schoolboy about manta dives. The south Penida coastline is home to a huge group of manta rays that can sometimes be seen from the air swimming in current lines near the cliffs, feeding and gliding through the sea. Some are reef mantas, joined by their larger pelagic cousins. There's even a mystical white manta I have seen leaping from the water on the way to Manta Point. Given the proper sea conditions, Manta Point, east of Penida's famed Arch Rock, can be enjoyed by all levels of divers. Snorkelers can even watch giant devilfish coast gracefully below them. Groups of manta rays gather at the reef area surrounding this large rock to visit the cleaning stations, mate and feed in the current with their immense mouths gaping open. There is a "flyway" of sorts they follow, like deer on a forest trail. They will come in along this invisible path and hover over a series of very large boulders holding cleaning stations. Look for the small cleaner wrasses that like to preen these animals. It was here John, Elaine and I watched as they took turns romping and getting cleaned. They come big and small and run the spectrum from nearly pure white to light gray with underbellies a brilliant white to jet-black with just a speck of white on the mandibles. Mantas can be curious, and we enjoyed some close encounters as they checked us out as we hovered.
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Islands of the Demon King
Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
offers an Authentically Bali⢠experience through the feature of its 382 guestrooms and suites; highlighting the admirable views of the ocean and gardens.
Nusa Dua Spa a spa pioneer on the island, retains the rich Balinese tradition through its marvelous designs and variety of treatments.
NUSA DUA BEACH HOTEL & SPA, BALI â INDONESIA Tel: +62 (361) 771 210 reservations@nusaduahotel.com www.nusaduahotel.com
AUTUMN 2016
51
Mola Mola Jurassic Point or Crystal Bay are where ocean sunfish like to hang out. They are normally alone getting cleaned by bannerfish and angelfish but can sometimes be found in small groups. It is quite a sight to see as they hang vertically in the water while these fish rummage all over their bodies. Mola come near the reef only briefly, presumably to mate and preen. My guide Selamat seemed even more eager than me to spot one. As we floated down along the wall at Jurassic Point passing whitetip sharks, giant bull rays and blue-spot stingrays, Selamat kept an eye out into the blue. Sunfish are big but also narrow and, if you don't see them from the side, you may miss them. Sure enough, an excited yell through his regulator alerted me to a cleaning mola up ahead. We slowed our approach and watched as busy bannerfish and Emperor angelfish pecked and preened this giant disk of a fish. As we got close, it shied away, then headed out to the open sea after I fired a few shots from my camera. But to our delight, the call to clean overrode the call to flee, and it circled and returned. During the course of a week, we saw molas at Pura Ped, Crystal Bay, Toyapakeh and the Jurrassic Point. The highlight for me took place on the boat, however. I had heard stories about the molas leaping from the sea and even seen a video. Suddenly, while taking some shots of Crystal Bay's arch, it happened. A mola broke the surface near our boat and completely cleared the ocean, loudly splashing back in a full-bodied flop. Amazing. Sunfish come into the reefs of Lembongan Island during late August and early September, but are also seen from June through November. They typically stay in an area punctuated by cold ocean upwellings and it is safest to look for them at slack tide. Lembongan and its neighboring isles are a real treasure for divers above and below. At night, the island is quiet, and there are some nice restaurants to enjoy dinner and drinks. This was certainly not my first trip and won't be my last, although it may have been the most rewarding to date. Like me, you may need to exercise your demons here again and again. â€
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Islands of the Demon King Lembongan Diving
ã¬ã³ãã³ã¬ã³ãã€ãã³ã° World Diving Lembongan (at Pondok Baruna Guest House) Tel. +62 812 390 0686 e-mail: info@world-diving.com Web: www.pondokbaruna.com/diving Bali Diving Academy Tel. +62 (0)361 270252 e-mail: info@scubali.com Web: www.scubali.com Bali Hai Diving Adventures Tel. +62 361 724 062 e-mail: reservations@balihaidiving.com Web: www.balihaidiving.com
PRACTICALITIES Getting There: Nusa Lembongan is approximately an hourâs boat trip from Sanur. Depending on your flight schedule. it is sometimes necessary to overnight in Bali before catching a boat. Transfers usually include free pick-up and drop-off from the airport, Jimbaran, Kuta, Seminyak, Legian and Sanur. Weather / Climate: The climate of Nusa Lembongan is similar to the neighboring âmainlandâ of Bali, but it is noticeably drier, particularly from May to September. The year-round average maximum temperature is 28-30 celsius degrees with minimums ranging from 23- 25 degrees. Language: Balinese is the most common language of communication between local residents. Bahasa Indonesian and English are also widely understood and spoken. Staying Connected: The island receives good 3G but be mindful of the cost of making calls from mobile phones. Most restaurants and accommodations offer free WiFi access to guests. There are also public Internet cafes in Jungut Batu.
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AUTUMN 2016
53
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY HOKKAIDO
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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY GUNMA
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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY MICRONESIA
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