Outdoor Japan Traveler - Issue 61 - Autumn 2016

ISSUE 61 | AUTUMN 2016 | FREE

AN INTERVIEW WITH

TRAVIS RICE THE RECKLESS OPTIMIST

Aizu Unplugged at Komanokoya

会津駒ヶ岳 ＜駒の小屋＞

Islands of the Demon King マンボウの島

Miyako Magic

宮古マジック

Baird Beer and more!

ADVENTURE

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PEOPLE

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C U LT U R E

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TRAVEL

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I N S I D E I S S U E 61 ■ S U M M E R 2 016

26 THE RECKLESS OPTIMIST

AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE インタビュー： トラビス・ライス 無鉄砲なオプティミストによる新次元の映画 16

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F E AT U R E S

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Globalwheels and Global Cycling Tour

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From the Fish Market to the World Market

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INSIDE

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From the Editor

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Guide Lines

宮古マジック

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Organic Cotton in Japan

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Market Watch

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Cycling japan

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Beer Buzz

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Local Brew

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Travel & Adventure Directory

Miyako Magic

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Aizu Unplugged: Komanokoya 会津駒ヶ岳 ＜駒の小屋＞

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An Interview with Travis Rice

Islands of the Demon King

インタビュー： トラビス・ライス

マンボウの島

T R AV E L E R

M A R C R U F F IN I

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C A P T U R E D B Y M A R C R U F F INI

AUTUMN 2016

■ FROM THE EDITOR Gardner Robinson, Editor-in-Chief gardner@outdoorjapan.com

J

apan is a land of seasons. Get out of the city, and you’ll see how the landscape is constantly changing from green to gold to sparkling white with many colors in between. The distinct natural cycle here makes Japan a special place to experience throughout the year.

When Travis Rice, arguably the most iconic snowboarder of his generation, began planning the follow-up to “The Art of Flight,” widely considered the greatest snowboarding film ever made, he chose to follow this natural cycle. Having competed and filmed in Japan countless times, Travis and his Brain Farm team were no strangers to Japan’s snow-laden mountains, but this time they were coming with a new purpose; to chart and follow the process of water and the weather patterns across the Pacific.

The result of nearly five years of planning, waiting, shooting and blind optimism is “The Fourth Phase,” an epic, personal film of snowboarding and adventure.

Outdoor Japan was pleased to be able to play a small part in helping to arrange shooting in Japan and, after watching the Tokyo premier, we’re sure snow (and Rice) fans will be stoked as well. Check out the exclusive interview with Travis about the steps that led up to this film and the challenges of filming and riding in Japan.

Outdoor Japan is on a cyclical path as well, in a sense going back to the future. Back in 2000, we went online with a mission to introduce local areas, fun activities and off-the-beaten-track destinations and connect travelers with some great tour operators around Japan.

In 2005, we launched Traveler magazine, the first English (or bi-lingual) magazine about travel and the outdoors in Japan. Since then, we’ve published our annual Japan Snow Guide, developed a Japan Snow Guide Mobile app for iOS and Android, and have published hundreds of guides and stories of travel and adventure in Japan.

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本は四季折々の国だ。街から出れば、その風景 た。アウトドアジャパンも、日本での撮影のアレンジなど が緑からさまざまな色をあいだにはさんで、輝く白に で参加させてもらい、東京でのプレミアを見た今、雪山 変化していくのが見てとれる。このはっきりとした自然の （とライスの） ファンには待望の作品であることを保障す サイクルのおかげで日本は一年を通して楽しむことができ る。トラビスのインタビューで、どのような段階を踏んでこ る場所だ。 の映像ができあがったのか、そして日本での撮影におけ スノーボーダーとして同世代ではアイコン的存在のトラ るチャレンジについてもぜひ読んでみてほしい。 ビス・ライスは、スノーボードの映像として最高だと目され そして、アウトドアジャパンも同様の周期のただ中にあ ている 『The Art of Flight』の続編に、この日本の自然のサ り、いわば、今は未来に戻るような感覚である。2000年 イクルを利用することにした。日本の雪山をよく知っている にウェブサイトを立ち上げ、日本の地元の楽しみや、人 トラビスとブライアン・ファームのチームは、試合や撮影で 里離れた場所の情報、そして旅行者のための国内優良 日本は何度も訪れているが、今回は太平洋を横断する気 ツアーなどを紹介してきた。 象状況を追いながら撮影するという新たな目的があった。 2005年には『トラベラーマガジン』を創刊し、日本初の 5年にわたる綿密な計画と待機と撮影、そして極端な 英語（そして、バイリンガル）のアウトドアトラベル誌となっ 楽観主義の結果、 『 The Fourth Phase 』という、 とてもパー た。そして年に一度、 『 Japan Snow Guide 』を発行し、こ ソナルなスノーボードのアドベンチャーフィルムが完成し ちらは同時にアプリも開発。日本の旅のガイドやストー

OUTDOOR JAPAN TRAVELER Published Seasonally Publisher Outdoor Japan Media

Media Coordinator Rie Miyoshi

Editor-in-Chief Gardner Robinson

Contributing Editors Wayne Graczyk, Shigeo Morishita

Editor Bill Ross

Translators Kumiko Kurosaki, Yoshine Lee, Eri Nishikami, Kazusa Murai, Lana Sofer

Art Director Yuki Masuko

Contributors Joan Bailey, Lee Dobson, Eddie Gianelloni, Bryan Harrell, Neil Hartmann, Abdel Ibrahim, Pauline Kitamura, Takashi Niwa, Tim Rock, Robert Self, Justin Stein, Bonnie Waycott, Craig Yamashita Sales & Marketing media@outdoorjapan.com

©2016 OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED. VIEWS EXPRESSED HEREIN ARE NOT NECESSARILY THOSE OF OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. PRINTED IN JAPAN.

AIRLINE PARTNERS

Traveler magazine is available at selected lounges, reservations counters and in-flight libraries with the following airline partners.

トラベラーマガジンは、空港ラウンジや予約カウンターや、右記航空 会社インフライト・ライブラリーにてお読みいただけます。

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In 2017, we are taking another step forward while also circling back to our roots as we launch Outdoor Japan Adventures (OJA) a new online and mobile platform with the simple goal to make it easier for travelers to find and book exciting tours to local areas of Japan.

This easy-to-use travel and adventure booking engine will include videos, images and stories about tours, tour operators and experiences throughout Japan.

Look out for the BETA version to be out in time for some cool winter tours, followed by the official launch in February 2017.

In addition to the Travis Rice interview, you’ll find many of our favorite things in this issue, from autumn activities and events to Japan’s top craft brewer, from eco-activists to travel and diving adventures. Every season is a new adventure in Japan, and we hope we can continue to make it easier for you to find yours.

リーを数多く提供してきた。 そして 2 0 1 7 年 、初 心にもどり、O u t d o o r J a p a n Adventures（OJA）という新しいウェブサイトをオンライン、 モバイルにて立ち上げる。日本でのツアー予約や地元 のスポットへのガイドなどがより簡単になるはずだ。 この予約システムでは、ツアーや日本での経験につ いてのビデオや写真、さまざまな体験談を盛り込む。冬 のツアーにはベータ版で体験していただける予定で、そ の後2017年2月には正式にオープン予定である。 トラビス・ライスのインタビューに加えて、秋の行楽や イベントについての情報、日本最高峰のクラフトビール 情報、環境活動家やダイビングについての記事も満載。 日本では新しい季節は新たなアドベンチャーを意味す る。そして、わたしたちは皆さまのアドベンチャープランを まいしん もっと簡素化できるようこれからも邁進していきます。

Outdoor Japan Media

6-6-55 Higashi Kaigan Minami Chigasaki-shi, Kanagawa 253-0054 〒253-0054 神奈川県茅ヶ崎市東海岸南 6-6-55 Tel: (0467) 81-3212 Fax: (0467) 81-3213 EDITORIAL: editor@outdoorjapan.com ADVERTISING: ads@outdoorjapan.com SUBSCRIPTIONS: subscribe@outdoorjapan.com

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Cover Photo: “The Fourth Phase,” written in Kanji

by Travis Rice.

Photo by Jason/Halayko Red Bull Content Pull

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GUIDE LINES

Banff Mountain Film Festival 2016 in Japan From ice climbing glaciers to surfing arctic breaks, the Banff Film Festival brings epic tales of adventure and exploration to Japan.

“Arctic Swell”

“Climbing Ice”

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tories of jaw-dropping expeditions, incredible adventures and travels to far-flung corners of the earth once again hit the big screen as the Banff Mountain Film Festival makes several stops in Japan.

Stunning films include action sports photographer Tim Kemple’s visit to Vatnajökull, an Icelandic glacier that can be seen from space, with two of Europe’s most experienced ice climbers, Klemen Premrl and Rahel Schelb.

Surfers will be sure to be familiar with award-winning surf photographer Chris Burkard who captures surfing at the ends of the earth in “Arctic Swell.”

Back on the U.S. mainland, “Showdown at Horseshoe Hell” documents the wildest event in the climbing world that takes place in northwest Arkansas. In “Darklight,” the soulful Sweetgrass filmmakers illuminate the night with professional mountain bikers Graham Agassiz, Matt Hunger and Matty Miles racing through the Pacific Northwest.

A major purpose for the Banff Mountain Film Festival is to raise awareness of land and wildlife preservation. In “The Last Dragons” we get an intimate look at North America’s eastern hellbender, a rare and ancient salamander.

Six mates, six rivers, three canoes, two months and one idea to “Protect the Peel” and you’ve got ”Paddle for the North,” a 1,500-kilometer canoe trip through the Peel Watershed in Canada. Four friends spend “55 Hours in Mexico” on an outlandish weekend trip to climb the volcano Orizaba, the third-highest peak in North America.

These films are not just about aesthetics, but also meaningful storytelling. In Forest Woodward’s moving “The Important Places,” we follow a father-son, 28-day expedition through the Grand Canyon, and tears will be shed in “Denali,” the story of Oregon photographer and surfer Ben Moon’s tribute to his dog who helped him battle through cancer.

To purchase tickets and for more information, visit www.banff.jp.

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“Paddle to the North”

Banff Film Festival in Japan 2016 Check the schedule for a showing near you.

Minakami, Gunma: Oct. 1 Asahimachi, Toyama: Oct. 8 Tokyo: Oct. 7-10 Nagoya: Oct. 15 Osaka: Oct. 29-30 Yokohama: Nov. 12-13 Sapporo: Nov. 20 Fukuoka: Nov. 23 Sendai: Nov. 26-27

“REEL ROCK”

“The Important Places”

“Darklight”

“The Last Dragons”

“55 Hours in Mexico”

“Denali”

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Autumn Events

Spring Airlines Japan to Connect Hokkaido to Tokyo Traveling to Hokkaido from Tokyo just got easier and cheaper with low-cost carrier Spring Airline Japan’s latest addition.

Visitors can now fly out at 7:15 a.m. every day from Narita Airport and arrive in Hokkaido by 9 a.m., leaving plenty of time to settle in and enjoy the fall colors or the snow. There is also a daily return flight from New Chitose Airport to Narita each morning.

Web: www.ch.com/en

Zuiki Festival The Zuiki Festival celebrates another successful grain harvest. The annual event started by offering rice husks and the season’s bounty at Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. Zuiki means “taro stalk,” which also makes up the roof of the mikoshi (portable shrine) carried around during the festivities.

When: Oct. 1-5 Where: Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine, Kyoto

Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival This annual celebration is one of Japan’s three great lantern festivals and dates back more than 300 years. Nihonmatsu Shrine will be lit up for three nights with eightmeter-high lanterns and taiko drumming at the base.

When: Oct. 4-6 Where: Nihonmatsu Shrine, Fukushima

Shonan, Himeji and Takahashi open new Montbell Stores Just in time for the autumn hiking season, three Montbell stores will open this October in beachside Shonan, near Kobe in Himeji and in Takahashi, Gunma. Japan’s top home-grown outdoor brand makes top quality gear for Japan and also organizes some great events.

When: October Where: Lalaport Hiratsuka; Himeji, Hyogo and Takahashi, Gunma Web: www.montbell.com

Takayama Matsuri Autumn Festival This is one of Japan’s most beautiful festivals with 11 floats elaborately adorned

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with karakuri ningyo marionettes and motifs depicting Japan’s ancient culture in historic Takayama.

When: Oct. 9-10 Where: Sakurayama Hachiman Shrine, Gifu

Ana Hachimangu Yabusame Enjoy the spectacle of Japanese horseback archery, called yabusame, in the heart of Tokyo. This ancient sport is traditionally held in spring and autumn.

When: Oct. 10 Where: Ana Hachimangu Shrine, Tokyo

Makino Kogen Family Camp Organized by The North Face Kids Nature School, this family camp in Shiga Prefecture includes kayaking, trekking and bonfires in a pristine riverside location near Biwa Lake. ¥8,000 for adults and ¥4,000 for elementary students.

When: Oct. 15-16 Where: Makino Kogen, Shiga Web: www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/kids-ns

Cliff Diving World Series 2016 The Red Bull cliff diving elite moves to Shirahama for the first time this fall. At 50 meters high along the Pacific Ocean, Sandanbeki cliff in Wakayama provides a dynamic and completely natural setting for the divers. The Shirahama contest is the penultimate stop before the Dubai finals.

When: Oct. 16 Where: Sandanbeki, Yoshino Kumano National Park Web: www.redbullcliffdiving.com

Feel EARTH 2016 Camp outside listening to folk tunes while soaking up fresh autumn air in Shizuoka.

Along with music, there are fun activity and craft workshops for all ages including yoga, BBQ and cooking, candle-making, playgrounds for kids and rock climbing.

When: Oct. 15-16 Where: Onoji Family Camp, Shizuoka Web: www.ei-publishing.co.jp/ feelearth2016/

Jidai Matsuri, Kyoto More than 2,000 people will parade in traditional Japanese wear through Kyoto, reflecting the city’s 1,200-year history.

The procession starts from Kyoto Imperial

Palace, traveling along Oike-dori to Heian Jingu Shrine.

When: Oct. 22 (Kyoto Imperial Palace: noon, Oike-dori street: 12:50 p.m., Heian Jingu Shrine: 2:30 p.m.)

Where: Kyoto Imperial Palace /Oike-dori street/ Heian Jingu Shrine Web: www.kyoto-magonote.jp/en/ feelearth2016/ * Special seats with English guidance are available for ¥3,500 from Kyoto City Tourism Association: Tel: (075) 213-1717,

Shirasagi-no Mai (White Heron Dance) Shirasagi-no Mai is a ceremonial parade with eight dancers dressed as white herons to depict ancient stories from the Heian Period (8th to 12th century).

When: Nov. 3 Where: Sensoji Temple, Tokyo

Mt. Mizugaki Climbing The North Face Kids Nature School takes children around Mt. Mizugaki to learn climbing from Yuji Hirayama. As the first Asian climber to win the Lead World Cup in 1998, Hirayama is one of Japan’s top rock climbers and is an athlete for The North Face.

When: Nov. 5 Where: Mt. Mizugaki, Yamanashi Web: www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/kids-ns

Yokonori Nippon Film Festival Check out Japan’s action sports scene at this annual week-long festival dedicated to yokonori, riding sideways, whether it be surf, skate or snow. The film festival is held in the Shonan surf town of Chigasaki, Kanagawa. Admission is ¥1,500 and can be purchased online.

When: Nov. 12-18 Where: Aeon Cinema Chigasaki Web: www.yoko-nori.jp

Fall Evening Illumination Enjoy kouyou (autumnal leaves changing color) under the night sky at Rikugien Gardens. Built during the Edo period, this daimyo teien belonged to a feudal lord and remains a popular destination to view kouyou foliage.

When: Nov. 19-Dec. 7 Where: Rikugien Gardens, Tokyo

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100 Minutes from Tokyo to an Amazing Winter Playground With the Hokuriku Shinkansen expansion now in its second winter, and a network of buses ferrying visitors from Iiyama to dozens of ski resorts, it’s never been easier to explore the area.

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PAID PUBLICITY

Kamakura

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Nozawa Onsen Village

he Shinetsu Shizenkyo Nature Park is a vast region that includes 39 ski resorts in more than 21 resort areas in Nagano and Niigata prefectures. The park features timeless natural landscapes where you can feel the soul of Japan and enjoy some of the heaviest snowfalls in Japan.

The Hokuriku Shinkansen, which extended to Iiyama Station in 2015, now makes it easy to jump off and explore the major ski areas in Iiyama, Nakano, Iizuna, Shinano, Yamanouchi, Kijimadaira, Sakae and Nozawa Onsen in Nagano Prefecture and Myoko in Niigata Prefecture.

While this region is most famous for its light, deep powder snow, travelers can also enjoy a

Shinetsu Shizenkyo Activity Center

variety of natural and culture experiences. Many travelers enjoy visiting the popular snow monkeys who warm up in the hot springs in Jigokudani.

In mid-winter, visitors can sit in kamakura (Japanese igloos) and enjoy dinner or drinks, participate in cultural festivals such as the Fire Festival in Nozawa Onsen, held every Jan. 15, and of course soak in one of the many local onsen after a day on the slopes.

The area is also popular in autumn for hiking, trekking and enjoying the beautiful fall colors. In the green season, guests flock to the mountainous resort areas to escape the heat and enjoy the rivers, lakes and fresh mountain air.

Jigokudani Yaen-Koen

SHINETSU SHIZENKYO SUPER VALUE TICKET The Super Value ticket allows visitors to choose from 38 ski resorts. Each Super Value ticket (Price: ¥21,000) includes a packet of five tickets which can be exchanged at any of the 38 resorts for a one-day lift ticket.

For lift tickets priced less than ¥4,200, visitors will receive an additional meal and/or onsen ticket. Super Value tickets are available at “TIC Tokyo” at Tokyo Station’s Nihonbashi Exit or “Shinetsu Shizenkyo Activity Center” inside Iiyama Station.

SNOW AREA CONNECT PASS Navigating through the park can be time and money consuming, but with the Snow Area Connect Pass, hop on and off buses with ease. The one-day and two-day passes are available at the Tourist Information Center located in Iiyama Station.

Starting from Iiyama Station, participating buses include the Nagaden Bus, Nozawa Liner (and local Nozawa Onsen Bus), Iiyama City’s community bus and Kijimadaira shuttle bus.

Shibu Onsen

ACCESS AND INFORMATION The Shinetsu Shizenkyo Nature Park is easily accessible from the Hokuriku Shinkansen Iiyama Station with buses connecting the station to each village. It takes approximately 100 minutes from Tokyo to Iiyama Station by bullet train.

The Shinetsu Shizenkyo Activity Center and Tourist Information Center are open year ’round. Here you can discover tours and more information on mountain trekking, cycling, water sports, snow activities, cultural tours and rentals. Outdoor gear and off-road fat bike rentals are also available here.

Fatbike Rentals

SHINETSU SHIZENKYO TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER Tel: (0269) 62-7000 (9 a.m. – 6 p.m.)

E-mail: info@shinetsu-shizenkyo.com Web: www.shinetsu-shizenkyo.com *These photos are images

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SPINNING THE FUTURE OF ORGANIC COTTON IN JAPAN

By Rie Miyoshi

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hen was the last time you bought a cotton T-shirt and put any thought into where it’s made? Today’s clothing industry’s self-sufficiency rate is almost non-existent. Even “Made in Japan” clothing may be assembled here, yet most of the materials are imported.

In Tokyo, a city of more than 13 million people, but with less than 8,000 hectares of farmland, 48-year-old Takuya Tomizawa of Tokyo Cotton Village is shouting a message, “Kangaeru,” urging people to think about our footprint on this planet.

“People are always surprised when I tell them T-shirts can be made naturally from what we grow in the soil,” Tomizawa says.

Cotton was first imported from China during the Heian Period in the 9th century, but it was not until the 13th century when it was cultivated. It flourished during the Edo period as more people discovered how comfortable it was.

Cotton cultivation is tricky. It thrives in dry places such as Texas or India, but give it too much water and it rots. With Japan’s rainy weather and humid summers, this plant adapted by growing its cotton facing away from the sun and using its petals as an umbrella.

At its peak, Japanese cotton expanded to around 200 types, varying in length, thickness and elasticity. However when western culture entered in the Meiji Period, after Japan was forced to open its doors to the world, importing cheaper American cotton was preferred and local cotton production

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came to a halt.

Today, only 30 types of cotton exist. Tomizawa’s mission is to ensure these 30 endangered types of cotton don’t die out.

Originally from Iwate Prefecture in northern Japan, Tomizawa moved to Tokyo after high school to pursue his dream of being a rock drummer.

After three years as a struggling musician, he changed his career path and went into music promoting, working with international artists in Tokyo and even attending school in New York for two years before becoming a successful advertising executive in Tokyo. Music continued to be a part of his life.

“As a drummer, I wore cotton T-shirts and ripped jeans to look cool,” Tomizawa laughs. “My point is, cotton was always there. You could say music led me to cotton.”

In 2006, former U.S. Vice President Al Gore released the internationally acclaimed documentary, “An Inconvenient Truth,” which led to Live Earth Music Festival, a series of benefit concerts around the world to help combat climate change.

Meanwhile, musician and activist Ryuichi Sakamoto had been working on a project to create completely 100 percent Japanese cotton T-shirts.

Over six years, he produced 90 T-shirts, which were signed by famous musicians and auctioned off at the festivals in Tokyo and Kyoto.

Tomizawa was working at an agency when his client, Subaru, sponsored a project cultivating cotton

with the Tohoku Cotton Project. During the March 11, 2011, disaster, saltwater from the tsunami left northern Japan’s farmland infertile for crops—except for cotton, which is able to withstand high salinity.

The Tohoku Cotton Project helps farmers whose rice paddies were flooded by providing cotton seeds, which are harvested and purchased by businesses.

As a Tohoku native, Tomizawa was inspired by how northern Japan adapted to its new landscape.

“Just like cotton,” he says.

He realized very few people were aware Japan used to produce cotton. After receiving seeds of knowledge (and literally, cotton seeds) from the

Tohoku farmers, he launched Tokyo Cotton Village in 2008.

Tomizawa thought of moving near the mountains or ocean but realized he needed to bring the inaka (countryside) to Tokyo to reach more people.

Tokyo Cotton Village owns two of five cotton farms in East Japan with 20 to 30 pots of pesticidefree cotton in Oita (Tokyo) and Yokohama. The pots make around five kilograms—producing about six T-shirts—of Aizu Fukushima and Tohoku cotton.

“We live in a society where we keep buying things. When something breaks, we just buy a replacement,” says Tomizawa. “Information comes so easily, so we simply weed out what we like or dislike.

“I used to be a busy salary worker, but Japanese cotton opened my eyes to stop and think about where things actually came from. This is why I want people to make time to be aware of their footprint.”

When asked how often the cotton is watered, Tomizawa explains the cotton is usually left alone.

Cotton is accustomed to dry areas and spreads its roots deep into the soil to look for water. “If we overwater them, they become weak. We don’t spoil our cotton, we want them to be sturdy—it’s like raising kids,” he laughs.

For a participatory fee, anyone can attend workshops to learn more about the process, try their hand at thread spinning and help with the harvesting in the fall and winter. Tomizawa also holds workshops at cafes, music festivals and events.

For more information, visit www.tokyocottonvillage. com.

By Joan Bailey

MARKET WATCH Market of the Sun – Taiyo Marche

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ot far from Tsukiji Market and Tokyo Bay is Taiyo Marche, aka the Market of the Sun. Opened in 2013, the market has become a favorite with area residents and attracts visitors from near and far. Regular Tokyo farmers’ market shoppers might recognize some of the 100 or so vendors from other city markets who set up shop here.

Offerings range from domestic and imported w i ne, ba ked goods, seasona l f r u its a nd vegetables to artisanal sesame oils. Plenty of craftspeople are also on hand with jewelry, handmade soap, wooden toys and cleverly patterned hats and aprons.

A c c ord i ng to A k i ko Ya m agat a , m a rket spokesperson, the Taiyo Marche in Tsukishima Second Children’s Park was founded by Mitsuii Real Estate Residential Corporation as something interesting to do for the occupants of their nearby apartment buildings.

“We wanted consumers to be able to meet the farmers face to face and let farmers promote their wares directly,” Yamagata said.

Growers come primarily from Honshu, although depending on the season, those from other regions also join. Yamakura organic tomatoes come from Takayama, Gifu Prefecture, bearing more than 40 varieties of heirloom tomatoes in all shapes, sizes and colors. (Go early to get the best selection as customers, quite literally, eat them up as fast as they appear.)

Other growers arrive in autumn from Minami Alps, Shizuoka Prefecture, with somen kabocha (spaghetti squash) and some of the best plums around. Aiyo Farms, a cooperative venture for young farmers, rolls in from Chiba and draws customers with their enthusiasm and fine selection of seasonal vegetables.

Specialty shop owners, such as Edible Gardens, line up beside farmers and craftspeople in an effort to increase awareness of their business or test new products. For others, such as Shigeru Yokoyama, it’s a chance to tell consumers exactly where his honey comes from.

With every sweet sample given out, Yokoyama describes how his trucks loaded with hives head out each spring to pollinate orchards up and down the country. “This one is very good for the throat,” he says, pointing to a dark brown honey produced from bees working soba fields.

Another honey, a pale gold, is harvested

only once a year from a forest hive of native honeybees after they feast on the blossoms of the yamazakura (mountain cherry). The sweet-andsour taste is as unexpected as it is addictive.

Monthly themes center around regions and seasonal produce making each market unique.

A collection of food trucks, too, offers fresh, tasty treats when the shopping is done. Hokuro, Urth Café, TofuTofu, and Heart C. all offer delightful takes on the season as they make use of fresh vegetables for their primary ingredients.

Regular children’s activities and a series of NPO tents mean there is something for the whole family to do and learn about while searching for a new favorite vegetable or jam.

Market of The Sun Open: Second Saturday and Sunday of the month 10a.m. – 5p.m.

Nearest Station: Kachidoke, Exit 4a/4b

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GlobalWheels

Trading the Big Top for the Open Road

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oung adults are ditching traditional vacation destinations to travel the world on their own terms. Frenchman Jeremie Coulbeaux is one of them. In 2013, the 30-year-old from Toulouse embarked on a world tour with a bike, a flute and 6,000 euros.

“I come from a family of four generations of circus performers and musicians,” Coulbeaux explains. During the Algerian War, his mother’s side escaped to France and started a family band in Paris called Les Globetrotter de la Chanson. Today, as Coulbeaux cycles from country to country, he gives flute performances to make extra cash while giving free English lessons.

With such a colorful background, he knew he had to travel and satisfy his love of nature and history and decided on a world cycling tour. After studying drums and flute in music school, he continued learning, taking classes in survival and first aid training to get ready for his adventure.

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Beginning in France, Coulbeaux pedaled his way through Europe, then continued down to the Middle East and into Asia.

Most of the money he makes busking is spent on food.

“I’ve been fortunate to have been hosted by kind people: policemen, the army, Couchsurfers,” says Coulbeaux. “I’ve stayed at mosques, Jewish temples and churches.

But most nights while traveling, I sleep in my tent and feed myself through fishing, hunting or eating insects.”

Weathering extreme heat and cold, droughts, tropical rains, altitude sickness, storms and typhoons, Coulbeaux has had his share of terrifying moments. While spending a month in an Indian rainforest jungle, Coulbeaux had a near-death experience.

“I was alone and set up traps every night to catch squirrels and pigs for food,” he says.

“One night, a small creature got caught and started crying, which woke up the rest of the jungle. Monkeys were screaming, birds were

screeching. Then all of a sudden, there was dead silence and I heard footsteps. I peeked outside…and a leopard was standing there, staring at my tent. I thought I was about to die.”

Thankfully, the leopard left him alone, so Coulbeaux could resume his journey before taking a short break in China and then continuing on to South Korea.

In Pusan, he jumped a ferry for Fukuoka in southern Japan and followed the coast north, touring the Seto Inland Sea. He jammed with his Couchsurfer host in Kyoto and even caught a meteor shower near Mt. Yufu in Beppu.

“I’ve always loved Japanese culture and music, and I think that’s reflected in my music,” says Coulbeaux, who spent a year in Tokyo in his early 20s and has relatives there.

“In any country, you have to learn the customs and manners,” Coulbeaux says.

Japan does not have a hitchhiking culture, so it can be harder for backpackers traveling on a shoestring budget, but Coulbeaux hasn’t had a problem getting around.

“Japan, especially in the countryside, has been very good to me. In the countryside, it

T

here’s a special freedom and enjoyment that comes from exploring a new city or the countryside by bicycle. Cycling helped U.K. native Gareth McCready discover new spots he would have never found by car or train.

It can be difficult and expensive to bring a bike on international flights and carry it as you travel, but a small company in Kansai is trying to make it easier for travelers in Japan to enjoy some human-powered transportation.

Gareth and his friend and business partner, Ian Michie, launched Globalwheels, a road and touring bicycle rental service to help visitors in Japan create their own twowheeled adventures.

“We’re both getting older and wanted to start an independent project,” McCready says. “I love Japan, cycling and adventure and wanted to share this with other people.”

With almost 20 million tourists visiting each year, Japan is experiencing significant tourism growth, but many visitors only see Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka.

“We’re trying to get people to go places which don’t get many visitors,” McCready explains. One of his favorite routes is a halfday ride to lesser-known Minoh in northern Osaka to Katsuoji Temple.

After recommending it to a customer, he received feedback that the route was more enjoyable than the usual advertised trips around Kyoto and Osaka.

Although Global Wheels launched in February of 2016, it has already attracted a number of travelers, backpackers and outdoor enthusiasts, both foreign and local.

“We ask our customers to send us their

measurements, so we can best fit our bikes,” McCready says. The bicycles include hybrid road and city bikes for leisurely cruising and, for more serious road biking, the Scott Speedster S45, GT GTR Series 2, and Felt F85. There are no children’s bicycles available.

Using the online social network Strava, they map and recommend routes for customers to follow. For interested cyclists traveling outside the Kansai region, nationwide shipping to your accommodation is available.

“We send our bikes using standard takyubin shipping in a box and oftentimes communicate directly with our customers’ accommodation hosts to make the process easier,” McCready explains.

“All our customers need to do when they’re done with their trip is send back the bikes in the box. We can send boxes along with the bikes or to their final accommodation destination. We’re looking at ways to keep this as painless as possible with smooth shipping and low costs. Luckily we’ve had success with it so far.”

Globalwheels already ships bikes throughout Japan, but McCready has his eyes set on a worldwide service.

“After all, it is called Globalwheels,” he laughs.

Globalwheels Road Bike Rental Address: 1-16-11 Temma, Kita-ku, Osaka 530-0043 E-mail: hello@globalwheels-japan.com Tel: 080-3864-0421 (every day between 8 a.m. and 9 p.m.)

Web: www.globalwheels-japan.com

feels easier and more natural to talk to people and share stories. I’ve been taken in by a few people here as well.”

Jeremie plans to fly to San Francisco to continue his journey through North and South America. He has a few plans once he returns to France, including publishing books on his travels, concentrating on his music and promoting ecologically friendly living. To follow his travels, visit his Facebook page at www.facebook.com/jeremsWorldTour.

—Rie Miyoshi

AUTUMN 2016

17

Cycling Japan:

A JOURNEY TO EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL LIFE サイクリング̶それは

土地の暮らしを感じる旅

ROUTE

29

By Takashi Niwa Translated by Sakae Sugahara

NIIGATA PREFECTURE

#

OKUTADAMI

GOAL!

— CYCLING THROUGH AUTUMN’S FINEST COLORS

FUKUSHIMA PREFECTURE

START!

GUNMA PREFECTURE

奥只見（福島県∼新潟県）

TOCHIGI PREFECTURE

紅葉のベストルートはここだ。

<Cycling Notes>

Circles denote areas with overnight accommodation. · Aizu Kogen Ozeguchi Station (Yagan Tetsudo/Aizu Railways): Start 0 km. · Hinoemata Village: 47 km. ○ Miike Highlands: 59.3 km. · · Ginzandaira Basin: 125 km. ○ · Ouyu Onsen: 144 km. ○ · Urasa Station (Joetsu Shinkansen): 164 km. ○印は宿泊可能エリア

· 会津高原尾瀬口駅（野岩鉄道・会津鉄道）0 km · 桧枝岐村: 47 km. ○ · 御池: 59.3 km. · 銀 山 平: 125 km. ○ · 大湯温泉: 144 km. ○ · 浦佐駅 (上越新幹線) 164 km. やがん

ぎんざんだいら おおゆ

うらさ

Cycle through an autumn dream. 夢のようなサイクリングがここにある

J

apan in autumn is a sight to behold, and there are many cycling routes that allow you to take in the beautiful autumn foliage.

I’ve chosen one which goes across the border between Fukushima and Niigata prefectures through an area called Miike, which can be best recognized as the northern entrance to Oze. The surrounding virgin forest is made up of buna (beech) and other trees that are breathtakingly beautiful. A side, roundtrip ride to Numayama-toge Pass is highly recommended.

The route is located in all but the widest part of Honshu Island. It cuts deep into the mountains and is sparsely populated. Due to heavy snowfall, the 100-kilometer section from

the village of Hinoemata to the spa town of Ouyu Onsen has no other year-round settlements.

You may occasionally spot huts for commuting farmers who grow vegetables and collect edible wild plants in the non-snow season, and stands catering to sightseers, but not many.

Cycling this route requires not only physical strength to pedal the distance, but also skills and tools to fix mechanical troubles, if any occur, on your bike as well as preparedness in securing and carrying necessary food and drink.

Autumn leaves on the route are best in mid-October. Including time needed for transportation to and from the start and finish, a three-day itinerary with overnight stays at hot springs is recommended.

紅

葉が美しいルートは数多くあるが、 ぼくがもっとも美

大湯温泉の100kmは、豪雪のため1年を通して人が住む

しいと思うのはここだ。ハイライトは福島と新潟県

ことがない。こんな地域はほかには知らない。無積雪期

の県境の、御池という地域。尾瀬の北側と思えば、おお

は出作り小屋（農業や山菜取りのベース）や、観光のた

よその位置は見当がつくだろうか？

めの施設がいくらかはある程度だ。

みいけ

一帯に広がるブナを中心とする原生林の美しさは、本当

それだけに、ペダルを踏むだけではなく、自転車のメカ

に驚くほど。枝道である沼山峠への往復も、ぜひ走って

トラブルへの対応や、補給食の準備など、サイクリング

おきたい。

にまつわる総合力が問われるルートでもある。紅葉の見

ここ本州のもっとも分厚いエリアといってよい。それだ

ごろは10月の中旬。東京からなら輪行での移動を含め、

けに山が深く、また人家も極端に少ない。桧枝岐村から

温泉に泊まりながらの2泊3日がおすすめだ。

ひのえまたむら

Takashi Niwa actively organizes guided tours around the world, from the back alleys of Tokyo to remote villages in Tibet. He has authored many books including “Otona no Tame no Jitensha Nyūmon” (Nihon Keizai Shinbun Shuppansha). His company, Niwa Cycling Tours (www.ncycling.com) organizes tours in Japan and around the world. ：にわサイクリングツアーズ（www.ncycling.com） を主宰し、東京の路地裏か 丹羽隆志（にわ たかし） らチベットまで、地球上のどこかをガイド。 『大人のための自転車入門』(日本経済新聞出版社刊)な ど著書多数。

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BEER BUZZ

By Justin Stein

Have Beer? Will Travel Vancouver, British Columbia

M

any of our readers already know that Vancouver, Canada, is a great urban base for outdoor activities. This beautiful city is surrounded by water and mountains that offer excellent ocean sports, winter sports, hiking, mountain biking and more.

Vancouver is also quietly becoming a premier North American beer destination. The website BeerMeBC.com lists more than 60 breweries in the greater Vancouver area, with two areas of particularly high concentration.

Brewery Creek is a historic site for local beer production, dating back to Vancouver Brewery, which was the largest on the Pacific Coast when it opened its doors in 1888. The surrounding Mount Pleasant neighborhood went through a lot of ups and downs in the years since, but it is currently in a renaissance, and there are six breweries within a block or two of an eight-block stretch of Main Street.

These include 33 Acres Brewing with a variety of solid traditional-style beers, Red Truck Beer whose flagship is an awardwinning amber ale, the cozy and tasty Brassneck Brewery and the spacious Main Street Beer, with a wide variety of brews in the historic Vancouver Brewery building.

The even more up-and-coming brewery neighborhood is near the hip and popular Commercial Drive (or “The Drive”) in the East Vancouver area. There are so many breweries there (10 and growing) that locals have started calling it “Yeast Van.” The neighborhood’s best-known brewery is Parallel 49, founded by three guys who grew up in the neighborhood. “P-49” served delicious seasonals while I was there, including a kettle sour with apricots called Apricotopus (6.3%) and a very balanced IPA called Dumb Funk (6.8%), brewed with a “wild” yeast called Trois whose fruity esters perfectly complement the hops.

Also of note is the “co-working brewery incubator” Callister Brewing Company, which hosts four breweries in the same space. Vancouver rents are very high, so this collaborative approach allows emerging professional brewers to get in the game before being able to afford their own space.

When I was there, the tap highlights were Terry’s Orange Chocolate Ale (5.3%) from Lightheart Brewing and The Technique (4%), a barrel-aged golden sour from Boombox Brewing Company. I spoke with a couple of the brewers there who really appreciated the ability to grow their brand and work on pro equipment before

making the leap to their own facilities.

There are lots of breweries tak ing advantage of the cheaper rents on the outskirts of town. Four Winds Brewing Company opened in Delta in 2013 and became known nationally two years later when it won Brewery of the Year at the 2015 Canadian Brewing Awards.

Their standard beers are all quite good, but their award-winning seasonals are excellent, especially their barrel-aged saison Operis (7%), a tripel made with wild sage honey called Triplicity (9%), and the dry-hopped sour Nectarous (5.5%), named Beer of the Year at the 2016 CBAs. Of particular interest to our readers is Fuggles and Warlock Craftworks, which just opened a production facility in Richmond last year after doing contract and collaboration work.

The founders grew up in the Steveston Village area of Richmond, which has a big Japanese population from the fishing industry, and the head brewer and his wife (who designs the Japan-inspired labels) are both of Japanese background. Moreover, all the founders self-identify as “geeks” or otaku, and their love of video games and anime make their brand quite distinctive.

The Last Strawberry (4.9%) is a Belgian white beer brewed with strawberries and lactose to give it a sweet fruitiness that plays very well with the wheat and spice notes and make the beer a great complement to pancakes or dessert.

Its anime-inspired label is very kawaii. Their summer seasonal was a delicious plum sour called Kiwami (6.3%), packaged with a gold calligraphy label to look like high-end sake, a style they first explored with a collaboration dry-hopped sour called Hikari (7.2%).

If you can’t get around to all the breweries, there are a number of great beer bars to sample the goods from the region. The Alibi Room in the historic Gastown neighborhood in the heart of the city might be the best and emphasizes excellence and localness in both the tap selection (which also has some from just south of the border) and on the food menu.

On the Drive, check out St. Augustine’s (owned by the P-49 guys) for more than 60 excellent rotating taps and BierCraft for a mix of BC and Belgian beers and a Belgian-inspired menu including delicious mussels.

So, next time someone brings up the incredible skiing, hiking, kite surfing or mountain biking in coastal BC, you can add, “I hear the beer is really good too.”

AUTUMN 2016

19

From the Fish Market to the World Market

By Rie Miyoshi

From back porch home-brewing to a state-of-the-art sustainableminded brewery on the Izu Peninsula, Baird Beer has grown up continuing to play an important role in growing the appreciation for craft beer in Japan while staying true to their mission to making honest, minimally processed beer.

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AUTUMN 2016

21

22

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From the Fish Market to the World Market

“I

was just a beer-loving rugby player,” Bryan Baird laughs. “I’ve always loved beer.”

Back in the mid-1990s, when ji-biru (craft beer) was de-regulated in Japan, there was a relatively short craft brew boom around the nation. The craft brewery count quickly jumped from zero to 275, but as mediocre beer started spilling into the market, the craft beer bubble had fizzled out by 1997.

“Japan is a sophisticated place where mediocre beer can’t endure,” Bryan explains.

Like many young people arriving in Japan for a postuniversity adventure, Bryan came to Japan as a JET, the government-sponsored program to promote native English teaching in public schools in Japan.

He fell in love with the country immediately, and not long after, his future wife Sayuri. He was especially impressed with Japan’s emphasis on craftsmanship. Realizing brewing beer had been de-regulated, he believed Japan could be a fertile market for small, craft brewers who focused on quality.

In 2000, Bryan and his wife opened a small brew pub in the fishing port town of Numazu in Shizuoka Prefecture. With Sayuri handling the food, Baird was freed to focus on his passion, making good beer with a tiny home-brewing apparatus in 30-liter batches in an old Hoff-Stevens keg.

In a little more than 15 years, Baird Beer has grown from a husband-and-wife brewery to a nationally recognized and distributed craft beer with several tap rooms in Tokyo and Yokohama, and a new brewery that distributes to selected international craft beer-loving markets.

“You know how they say, ‘If you build it, they will come?’

Well, we built it, and very few people came,” Baird recalls, struggling the first few years in Numazu before expanding to Tokyo. Business took off in 2003.

They continued to brew out of Shizuoka while sending their bottled beers first to the city, then nationwide and eventually overseas. In 2005, they expanded to a thousandliter brewery.

Growing while maintaining quality, integrity and trust with craft beer enthusiasts is a balancing act, but Bryan and the Baird family manage to stay true to their core values while keeping deep roots in Shizuoka where Baird Beer was born.

“Rural Japan is aging, it’s de-populated,” Bryan says. In 2014, after being courted by the Izu City government, Baird

moved south into the beautiful Izu Peninsula to Shuzenji, a hot spring resort town on the way to southern Izu’s famous white-sand beaches and surf breaks.

Shuzenji is now home to Baird Beer’s impressive new brewery (although they kept the original taproom in Numazu), and locals are thrilled to see them building their business here.

Perhaps most striking about the Baird Brewery is the zero-waste approach they have taken to the brewing process.

Spent grain, hops and yeast are brought to mulch facilities.

Ingredients are locally and organically grown without pesticides from neighboring farmland and orchards. Ten percent of the electricity comes from solar panels, and Baird hopes to one day run completely off the grid.

They’ve also built a wastewater treatment facility. After treatment, the water is cleaner than the clear nearby river water. This water will also be used for irrigation in the future and, as part of the “One Percent for the Planet” initiative, Baird Brewery donates to the National Conservation Society of Japan for every bottle of Shuzenji Heritage Helles sold.

“Beer is about agriculture,” says Baird. “It’s tied to the land and nature, because that’s where it’s from. Our goal is to create minimally processed beer in a beautiful place while enhancing the environment and making intimate connections.”

Standing on the banks of Kano River, the brewery is flanked by hills, rice paddies and a quiet village. Originally a KOA Campground, the land around the brewery will soon offer camping and cabins for craft beer friends old and new who want to visit the brewery and the on-site Shuzenji Gardens Taproom.

If you’d like to take a brewery tour, finishing off with a fresh pint of beer at the taproom (or a few bottles to take home), tours are available daily, but check the website for times. If you have enjoyed Baird for years, as you walk along the hallway, you’ll see the familiar artwork designed for Baird beer labels by Eiko Nishida, an artist and family friend.

“We have different artwork for all our beers,” Sayuri Baird points out. “All our beers have a different style and history we want to share with our customers. The artwork helps get them interested.”

Today, the Japan beer scene is facing a new boom. There are still fewer than 2,000 licensed craft breweries in Japan, but craft beer pubs are growing as Japanese beer drinkers get a taste for the good stuff. ✤ AUTUMN 2016

23

Baird Beer

By Bryan Harrell

S

oon after Baird Beer was founded, it rapidly established a reputation as one of the best microbreweries in Japan. Not only was the beer line-up of very high quality, but also the original selection of six year-round beers had two slightly unusual twists in the form of Red Rose Amber Ale and Angry Boy Brown.

Red Rose Amber Ale is aged for a while at lower temperatures, giving it a distinctive crisp and dry character. Angry Boy Brown Ale’s strong malt character and riot-like hop profile compete for your attention as they

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highlight the original interplay between malt sweetness and hop bitterness.

Both beers remained my favorite until the addition of Suruga Bay Imperial IPA to the selection some years later.

Personally, these three beers all offer tons of character, yet are distinctively different in terms of style and flavors.

At present, the year-round selection has increased to 12 beers, including a low-alcohol “session ale,” a wheat ale, two lagers and a Japanese Pale Ale. Along with this growing number of year-round brews, Baird has kept busy by brewing a surprising variety of

interesting special edition beers which change with the seasons. Their seasonal brewing is organized into four series; the monthly style series, the fruitful life series, the brewer’s passion series and the four seasons series.

In the monthly style series, favorites include Ganko Oyaji Barley Wine, Brewer’s Nightmare Rye IPA and Four Sisters Spring Bock. In the fruitful life series, The Carpenter’s Mikan Ale is perhaps the most famous fruit beer and should not be missed, while Temple Garden Yuzu Ale and Japan Tale Ale (with ume) are worthy of note.

The four season’s beers include the highly recommended

From the Fish Market to the World Market

Saison Sayuri in Spring and the Yabai-Yabai Strong Scotch Ale in the fall. The brewer’s passion series is perhaps the hardest to catch, so to keep pace with releases, you should subscribe to the Baird Beer Voice newsletter. .

It is both the tremendous variety of Baird Beer and its overall high level of quality that truly sets it apart from most other craft beer in Japan. While a few brewers offer some beers that approach Baird standards, it cannot be said for their entire line.

Those living in Tokyo and Yokohama can drink Baird at one of the Baird Taprooms. Plus, no matter where you live in

Japan, it is easy to order Baird Beer for home delivery, either

by Yahoo Shopping or Rakuten.

For details, and to sign up for the newsletter, check the Baird website at www.bairdbeer.com.

Baird Taprooms Baird’s original Fishmarket Taproom (and site of the original brewery) is in the sleepy fishing town of Numazu in Shizuoka. Since then, they have opened taprooms in NakaMeguro and Harajuku in Tokyo, Bashamichi in Yokohama and at their new brewery in Shuzenji in Shizuoka. Their

newest taproom recently opened in Takadanobaba.

The taprooms offer fresh, minimally processed craft cuisine, with each focusing on a unique take on delicious meats to pair with their great beers. The Takadanobaba Taproom specializes in kushiage (skewers of fried meat and vegetables), while the Harajuku Taproom’s specialty is yakitori.

The Naka-Meguro Taproom offers New Haven-style pizza, while the Yokohama Taproom specializes in traditional American-style barbecue. For details and locations. visit www.bairdbeer.com/en/tap/index.html

AUTUMN 2016

25

THE RECKLESS OPTIMIST’S NEXT PHASE

AN INTERVIEW WITH

TRAVIS RICE インタビュー： トラビス・ライス 無鉄砲なオプティミストによる新次元の映画

By Gardner Robinson

“Once Travis has an idea in his head, it’s really hard for him to let it go,” understates one of his cohorts in “The Fourth Phase.” Travis Rice’s new film recently premiered in Tokyo to a packed house. The film charts the hydrological cycle across the Pacific Ocean to Japan and beyond and marks the next step in filmmaking for him and his Brain Farm crew, which follows the tracks laid by “The Art of Flight,” and then turns inward. 「一度やるってトラビスが心に決めたら、止めることはだれにもできないね」 ̶『 The Fourth Phase 』 で、彼の仲間の言葉。 トラビス・ライスの新作映画のプレミアが満席になった東京の劇場でおこなわれた。 この映画が描こうとしたテーマは太平洋の水循環だ。前作『 The Art of Flight 』 から大きな飛躍を遂げた トラビス・ライスに今の心境や彼の撮影クルー、Brain Farmについてインタビューを試みた。

RIDER: TRAVIS RICE IN JACKSON PHOTO: TIM ZIMMERMAN / RED BULL CONTENT POOL

26

T R AV E L E R

“LIFE IS WATER DANCING TO THE TUNE OF SOLIDS. WITHOUT THAT DANCE, THERE COULD BE NO LIFE.”

— GERALD H. POLLACK, THE FOURTH PHASE OF WATER: BEYOND SOLID, LIQUID, AND VAPOR

AUTUMN 2016

27

“I HAVE NOT FIGURED OUT HOW TO SEPARATE RECKLESS OPTIMISM FROM A HEALTHY APPETITE TO PURSUE SOMETHING UNTIL IT BECOMES IMPOSSIBLE.” — TRAVIS RICE G Your dad was ski patrol in Jackson Hole growing up, so when did you first strap in sideways?

T Actually, I think it was my mom who took me skiing first, but my dad was ski patrol there, and I grew up skiing. I was 12 or 13 when I started snowboarding. I always consider myself a skier at heart; that’s how I learned to look at the mountain. For me, skiing or snowboarding, it really doesn’t matter. Personally I just much prefer snowboarding. I have more fun doing it; just that aesthetic of a turn.

I think that’s really the biggest thing, the root of why I snowboard instead of ski, the nuanced beauty of the art of the turn. You can spend your lifetime working on the transition from heelside to toeside on a snowboard. I love it.

You can put in a lot of effort and fine tune your ski turn, but it’s just too easy on skis.

G Back in 2003 I remember seeing you atop the podium, spraying the crowd at the Tokyo Dome, thinking, “This kid is having a good time.”

T Yeah, the Tokyo Dome Big Air contest (in 2003) was my first trip to Japan. I think I won it with a double back or something. Those events were fun. I was underaged, like 19 or 20, and going over to Japan in the very beginning was insane. It was amazing.

Then, when I finally got to go ride the mountains in Japan, it blew my mind. Over the last 10 years, I’ve gone up to the north island a lot. Hit all the main resorts and did a lot of

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roadside backcountry hiking. I know there’s so much we haven’t seen or touched up there, but it was a blast. Since then, I’m definitely into the 20s or so as far as trips to Japan.

the North Pacific. We were just following the natural energy cycle, and its first stop really was Japan.

What’s important to you when choosing your crew?

I think it mostly comes down to trying to align with people who are down with a mission and will bring optimism.

Inevitably it’s always a set-up; you go somewhere, bring your own expectations, you think you have an idea of what you want to do but then the minute you get there everything changes, so trying to work with people who are able to ride in a lot of different conditions, sub-par conditions, people who are able to make the most of any situation.

G

Why was Japan such an important part of your latest film, “The Fourth Phase?”

T I knew I wanted to shoot in Japan early on. Years ago, we did a Japan segment in “The Community Project,” and at the time I felt it was one of the better Japan segments ever captured. Going back to Japan, we really wanted to do it justice, spend the time and effort to bring a legitimate representation of the riding over there, the culture, the landscape; you’ve been over there for a long time, it’s a special place.

What I really like about it is you kind of get out of it what you put into it. It’s not really set up to just come and have everything at your fingertips. We really had to put in the time and effort to capture what we got. We wanted to do a little more, but it’s nice to leave something on the table as well.

The film is about water, the relationship to water and the hydrological processes that bring our weather to North America. It’s funny because Japan is on the other side of the Pacific, but it’s an essential part of the process.

We wanted to follow the North Pacific Gyre, and one of the main currents is the Kuroshio. The gyre has all that heat energy as it travels west across the Pacific, then hits a bank and gets thrust north, barrels into Japan and continues to G

T

G Instead of Hokkaido, this time you spent all your time in the Japan Alps. Why is that?

T I did so much research on the mountains down there and, in this day and age with all the tools at your fingertips, it didn’t take long to figure out the lay of the land. I realized pretty quickly just how big and aggressive some of the mountains were down in Nagano Prefecture, which is where we spent most of our time for the new film. It was just on a whole other level, getting to experience and ride that terrain.

We spent a fair amount of time in the Hakuba Valley. So many resorts have great access, but we ventured out too, we did some driving, some exotic roadside hiking and did a couple of big missions to some really incredible, straight-up peaks that reminded me of Alaska-style terrain.

AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE

RIDER: MARK LANDVIK PHOTOS: MIKE YOSHIDA

ガードナー・ロビンソン （以下 G ） ：君のお父さんはジャク

きました。ほとんどのリゾートに行ったし、ロードサイドのバッ

ソン・ホールのスキーパトロールだったんだよね。スノー

クカントリーもたくさんやった。まだたくさん開拓の余地は残

ボードとの出会いはいつ？

されているのを知っているけど、とにかく楽しかったな。もう

：スキーを母親が教えてくれたの トラビス・ライス （以下 T ）

20回か、それくらい日本には来ています。

が最初です。父親はそこのスキーパトロールで働いていま した。スノーボーディングをはじめたのは12か13歳かな。今 もスキーヤーとしての意識は常に持ちつづけていますよ。

G 新作『 The Fourth Phase 』では日本が重要な舞台に

なっているけど、それはなぜ？

つまりスキーヤーとして山から学びましたから。ぼくにとって

T 日本は当初からシュートしたいと思っていたんです。数

はスキーもスノーボードも関係はないんですが、正直な気

年前に作った 『 The Community Project 』では日本のパート

持ちとしてはスノーボーディングなんですね。このターンの

を設けたんです。当時としては、それまでに日本で作られ

美学に強く魅力を感じています。スキーよりもスノーボード

た映像のなかでもより良いものと感じていました。でも今

を選ぶ根本的な原因はそこにあるといっていいです。この

回、ふたたび日本にやってきてぼくたちは時間と努力を惜

ターンの繊細な美しさは、 つまりアートなんです。つまりヒー

しまずに、ここの文化や自然、そしてライディングを偏るこ

ルサイドからトゥサイドへのトランジション （切り替え）こそが

となく表現しようと思ったんです。あなたはもう長く日本に

かたよ

スノーボードの核心で、それがすばらしいんです。スキーで

住んでいるから、その意味が理解できると思う。だから、た

もターンに磨きをかけることは面白いけど、スノーボードに

だ日本にやってきて、なんでもかんでも自分たちの都合に

比べると優しいんです。

合わせようとするのでなく、時間と努力を惜しまないで記録 していく、というやり方で仕事を進めました。じつはもっと

G 2003年に東京ドームの舞台で、あなたが観衆に向かっ

撮影したいという気持ちもあったんだけど、でも少しはなに

てスプレーをアピールしていたことを思い出します。 “こい

かをテーブルに残しておくことも大切だと感じました。

つ楽しんでいるな”って思いました。

この映画は水について作りました。水と北アメリカの気

T そうなんですか！あの東京ドーム・ビッグエアー・コンテス

候にもたらす大気の循環がテーマなんです。でも面白いな

トは日本への最初の旅でした。たしかダブルバックかなに

と思ったのは、太平洋をはさんで反対側にある日本が大循

かで勝ったんですよね。あのイベントは楽しかった。まだ未

環の重要な役割を担っていたことに気づいたことなんです。

成年で19か20 歳だったと思います。あの年令で日本を体

ぼくたちは北太平洋旋回 （北太平洋の海流の総称） を追

験するなんて驚きばかりだった。それから日本の山も滑っ

跡してみたいと思いました。この旋回の大きな海流のひとつ

て感激したんです。それから10年くらい北海道に何度も行

が黒潮です。この海流は暖かいエネルギーを持っていて、 AUTUMN 2016

29

“LET THE FIRE BURN.” — TRAVIS RICE

I was pretty blown away by how vast and aggressive the terrain is in the Japanese Alps. You’re looking up at peaks, and it’s like Alaska seeing all kinds of amazing stuff that looks ridable, but it’s 70 percent death defying; only a small percentage really goes.

There’s a ton of terrain traps, some of the most terrain trapped mountains I’ve ridden, and just how some of those massive mountains and drainages work, you got to be on it.

You really have to be on it to ride here. You get so much snow, and the weather changes all the time. It can be as good as it gets, but you have to work for it, you have to earn it.

G Were there any specific challenges you faced filming in Japan?

T We worked with so many good people. We did all this night shooting, and the resorts graciously allowed us to shoot, but there were all these rules and regulations. They’d be super helpful one day, but the next day we couldn’t get any help at all. It was always this funny dance. They wanted to help us out, but they had no idea how to deal with a crew as big as ours and our demands. I think at times they got a bit overwhelmed by our massive production.

It got pretty adventurous for Jared Slater, our aerial filmer.

He was trying to communicate with our helicopter pilot who didn’t speak any English. They came up with six or seven key words. It is pretty difficult to capture snowboarding with normal communication, but on top of that, this guy had

30

T R AV E L E R

a little speaker in his helicopter just pumping electronic dance music while we were filming.

Other than that, I actually enjoyed getting lost in Japan’s backroads, finding myself in a wasabi farm. It was snowing, and all these guys are working in the river. I’ve been to Japan so many times, but I still constantly stumble across things that are so foreign to me.

How did you and Shin (Biyajima) hook up?

I knew Shin a little bit early on, but it’s funny because where I really met Shin, and where he made a strong impression on me, was in Jackson Hole. I sledded back to a secret zone way deep in the Jackson backcountry to some freeriding. I got out there and followed some snowmobile tracks figuring it’s just some snowmobilers.

I get way back in there and come around the corner and see two snowboard tracks and am like, holy s**t, there’re some people riding back here. I’d never seen anyone else riding back there, and it turned out to be Shin, his buddy from Jackson and Lance Pitman.

There’s this one cliff that’s pretty big, but had a fairly flat landing. I was thinking there’s no way you can land off that, but when I went back around and watched him do this line, he came down, aired this little cliff and lined up for the big one, and I was like, no way, and watched him air, kick out this massive method and then stomp the s**t out of it. I was like, who the f**k is this guy!

G T

Shin rides down with this big ol’ Japanese grin and giggle and I’m like what? Two years later, when I started planning the trip, I knew Shin was from the Hakuba area, and I didn’t want to come film in Japan without a Japanese rider. Shin had the time and availability, and it worked out perfect.

G You guys swung through Nozawa Onsen for Dosojin Matsuri. What were your impressions of the fire festival?

T I really appreciated the genuine honesty of it. I’m not sure how pumped the locals are that the cat is out of the bag, widely covered with all the foreigners showing up, and it’s probably not going to help us putting a bit into our film, but I thought it was incredible and really appreciated seeing people getting some emotions off their chest.

I didn’t fully comprehend everything that was going on, but you had a sense this was a night when people were not leaving anything on the table, a night to get the skeletons out of your closet and move forward. I really liked that aspect of it.

G For the men of the village, if it’s their year, it’s one of the biggest nights of their lives. The village is talking about cracking down on buses coming in just for the festival, which is probably a good idea. Jimmy (Chin) had his hands full trying to direct things once you all entered the mayhem.

T The timing worked out great because Jimmy only had

AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE

“JAPAN IS THE SNOWIEST PLACE ON EARTH.” — TRAVIS RICE

RIDER: SHIN BIYAJIMA PHOTO: MIKE YOSHIDA

太平洋を西に向かって流れています。そして海底に当たっ

ピークを見上げるとびっくりするくらいライダブルな感じで、まる

そのほかでは、抜け道を間違えて迷って、ワサビ畑に出

て北に向きを変えて日本を通過し、北太平洋へと向かうんで

でアラスカでした。でも大事故が起こる確率は70％くらいはあ

くわしました。雪が降っていたのですが、農家の人がなん

すね。ぼくたちはこの大自然の海流サイクルを追跡しようと

りそうで、可能性がありそうなのはほんのわずかだったんです。

と川の中で農作業をしていたんです。日本にはもう何度も

思い、その最初の行き先が日本だったというわけなんです。

テラン・トラップ （雪崩の引き金）は無数にあって、いくつ

来ていますが、そのたびに新たに驚かされて異国にいるん

かは、ぼくがかつて滑ってきた危険なテラン・トラップのあ

だと気づかされます。

あんぶ

G 製作クルーの人選は重要だったのではないですか？

る山のようでした。そんな巨大な山の鞍 部がどう影響する

T そうですね。けっきょくは協調性を持ち、ミッションに楽

か、危険なのは承知でも挑戦しなければならないですから

観的な空気を持ち込める人ということになりました。この

ね。雪の量は半端じゃないし、天気は目まぐるしく変化す

T 慎のことは以前からちょっと知っていたんですよ。でも

仕事はつねに準備がつきまとうし、期待していたことが突

る。事故は覚悟のうえでやり遂げなければならないんです。

面白いのは、彼から強い印象を受けたのは、じつはジャク ソン・ホールだったんです。あるときフリーライディングの

然すべて変わってしまうこともしばしばだから、さまざまなコ ンデション、つまり不良な状況下でも対応できて、そしてや り遂げられる人が必要だったんです。

G 美谷島慎とはどうつながったのですか？

G 日本での撮影で、ほかに何か変わったチャレンジはし

ましたか？ T ぼくたちはたくさんの良い人たちと出会い仕事ができま

ためにジャクソンのバックカントリーのシークレットゾーンに 行ったんです。そこはすごくディープな場所で、 ぼくはスノー モバイラーたちの航跡をたどっていったんですよ。そこから

G 今回は北海道ではなく日本アルプスで多くの時間を費

した。たとえば夜の撮影をしたんですが、リゾート側も好意

戻る途中にコーナーを回ったら、ふたつのスノーボードのト

やしたけれど、その理由は？

的に許可してくれました。でもルールや規則を守らなけれ

ラックを見つけたんです。 「マジかよ！」ここで滑ってるやつ

T ぼくは山の調査を念密におこなったんです。今はコン

ばならなかったんです。彼らは、初日はすごく手伝ってくれ

らがいるって驚きました。ぼくはこのあたりでスノーボーダー

ピューターで容易に地勢などを知ることができますから。そ

たんですが、翌日になると全然手伝ってくれなくなりました。

を見たことがなかったんです。それが慎と彼のジャクソン出

れで長野県に大きくてアグレッシブな山があるってことにす

彼らは手伝いたかったのですが、ぼくたちの大きな要求に

身の友人ランス・ピットマンだったんですよ。

ぐに気づきました。だから今回の撮影では長野に滞在す

どう答えていいかわからなかったんですよ。たぶんぼくたち

ることが多くなったんです。その山々での経験は新たな基

の途方もない撮影方法に戸惑ったんだと思います。

そこにはけっこう大きな崖があって、ランディングがフラッ トなんです。だからちょっとお勧めできないんだけど、でも

準となりましたね。

エアリアル専門のフィルマー、ジャレド・スレーターにとっ

彼は飛んだんです。 「えー、マジ！」って感じで、マッシブなメ

ぼくたちは白馬山麓で多くの時間を費やしました。アクセ

ては新たな挑戦だったと思います。ヘリコプターのパイロッ

ソッドからストンプまで決めました。 「このすげえやつはいっ たい誰だ？」って叫びましたよ。滑ってきた慎を見たら、普

スにも便利なリゾートもたくさんあったし、冒険もいろいろや

トが英語を話せなくて、しかたないから6つか7つの使える

りました。運転してエキゾチックなロードサイドのハイキングも

単語を教えました。でも普通に英語を話せなくては、スノー

通の日本人らしくニコニコ笑っているじゃないですか「えっ、

したし、垂直登坂でいくつかの峰を登頂するというすごいこ

ボードを撮るのはかなり困難です。そのうえ、 ヘリにはスピー

こいつなの？」って感じでしたね。

ともやりました。それでアラスカの経験を思い出しましたね。

カーが取り付けてあって、パイロットはぼくたちの撮影中に

それで2 年後にこのトリップを計画しているとき、日本人

日本アルプスの山々のアグレッシブさには驚嘆しました。

テクノ・ダンスの曲をかけて踊っていたんです。

ライダーをぜったい使おうって決めていて。白馬エリアに AUTUMN 2016

31

RIDER: TRAVIS RICE PHOTO: MIKE YOSHIDA

“HE BECAME THE RIDER I ENVISIONED I COULD BE.” — BRYAN IGUCHI

32

T R AV E L E R

â&#x20AC;&#x2030;AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE

AUTUMN 2016

33

“DISCOVERY CONSISTS OF SEEING WHAT EVERYBODY HAS SEEN AND THINKING WHAT NOBODY HAS THOUGHT.”

— GERALD H. POLLACK, THE FOURTH PHASE OF WATER: BEYOND SOLID, LIQUID, AND VAPOR

two months to spend with us at the beginning. It was nice to have some of his direction. He’s such an international celebrity these days, he didn’t have the bandwidth to solely direct the project, so we were pumped with the amount of time Jimmy had to put into it. He spent some time in Russia with us as well.

How many GoPros did you guys destroy?

We destroyed or lost a lot of GoPros but got a lot of incredible POV footage. In the beginning, some of the camera systems we were using were so new they weren’t on the market yet and had Beta software. We had a lot of challenges getting camera systems to work that were experimental. I’ve got to give a lot of credit to the crew who spent so much time and effort getting it right.

G T

G Weather being a central theme, I guess it’s fitting you had a lot thrown at you.

T Pretty much everywhere we went we had crazy weather.

I think Russia was probably one of the toughest places for us weatherwise, but even Alaska, the last three years have been somewhat subpar when you look at historically how Alaska can shape up. We had challenges the whole way through, but if it was easy, everyone would be doing it, right?

G People might be surprised to hear you spend a lot of time on the water, but what drew you to sailing?

34

T R AV E L E R

T My dad really wanted to learn how to sail and, when I was 16, he became a quarter partner in this small, 24-foot trimaran. Three weeks a year, I’d go with him and we’d sail from Florida out around the Bahamas. I did that for a bunch of years and, in the meantime, I was picking up surfing, which I also fell in love with. Then I was like, man, to combine the two would be perfect.

I find I enjoy myself most on those days when it’s just me and a couple close friends away from it all. True human interaction in a day when we are all spread so thin. Over the past six years, my girlfriend and I live on our boat two or three months a year. It’s just one of our seasonal homes at this point.

Do you find similarities between being deep in the mountains and the sea?

T Being out on the ocean seems like a different world to being in the mountains and the backcountry, but there is also a lot of symmetry. They each have their own biorhythms from a motherly embrace to tempestuous wrath. What I love about being out in nature is that you are at the mercy of your own decision making.

G

proud of them all. We couldn’t have done this film without the other films pre-dating it and being part of the process.

We needed to do “Community Project” to feel comfortable doing our own thing, and then “That’s It That’s All” was this experiment with camera technology and shooting snowboarding a little differently. “Art of Flight” was that dream of “That’s it That’s All” realized. Then we didn’t want to make an “Art of Flight 2,” so we stepped back and tried to take a different approach to create a more multi-faceted film. “The Fourth Phase” has more of a storyline, and it was much more personal for me.

It’s probably the most personal project I’ve done, which changed the dynamic a little bit. Plus we were involving more than just snowboarding in the project. We were looking at weather and our relationships with weather. It goes to a few other places, and I don’t want to spoil anything, so I won’t go into it, but it’s about a willingness to expose oneself a little bit more and share something openly and honestly. It’s more than just landing tricks. Moving forward, this is just another stepping stone…

And what is next?

What’s next? I don’t know. Right now, I’m really interested in revamping the Supernatural contest, so I’m going to put a lot of effort and energy into that going forward. The only thing I’d say is that it would be really nice to have a venue stop in Japan someday. Japan would be perfect for it. ✤ G T

G Now that “The Fourth Phase” is in the books, do you look back at your past films any differently?

T They were all just chapters in the book, stepping stones.

Each was perfect for where we were at the time, and I’m

AN INTERVIEW WITH TRAVIS RICE

The exclusive premier of“The Fourth Phase”is set for Oct. 2 at 8:30 p.m. on Redbull TV (www.redbull.tv). You can pre-order the film on Blueray DVD or digital download from www.thefourthphase. com. Snowboarders and action film aficionados will want to grab a limited edition (only 3,000 printed, US$145) of the large-format s for sale book published with selected images from the film. It’ at Asymbol (www.asymbol.co), Travis’art gallery for action sports artists and photographers. Copies are limited and will sell out long before Christmas.

TRAVIS HONING HIS FILLETING SKILLS AT TSUKIJI MARKET. PHOTO: JASON HALAYKO / RED BULL CONTENT POOL

インフォメーション：『The Fourth Phase』の独占上映は 10月2日8:30pmにRedbull TV（www.redbull.tv）で上映。Blueray、DVD、そしてデジタル・ダウンロードの先行予約は www.thefourthphase.com. リミテッドエディションが写真集 付きで3,000部のみ限定販売される。興味のある方はwww.

asymbol.co

G 山や海の奥深くに自分自身を置くことに共通点は感じ

ますか？ T 大海原に出ることと、山でのバックカントリーを表現す

るには違う言葉が必要でしょう。でも対象として比べると、 調和する点はたくさんあると思います。それぞれが母性的 な包容力や、ときには激しい激怒と表現できるような固有 TRAVIS RICE SAILING IN TAHITI PHOTO: TIM MCKENNA / RED BULL CONTENT POOL

LEARNING THE JAPANESE ART OF “SHODO” PHOTO: JASON HALAYKO / RED BULL CONTENT POOL

のバイオリズムを持っていますね。それらはぼくにとって自 然の持つ魅力でもあります。

慎がいることを知っていたから、慎も時間を合わせてくれ

られないようなPOVフッテージを残すことができました。いく

G 新作『 The Fourth Phase 』が新刊となった現在、これま

て、パーフェクトでした。

つかの最新のカメラシステムも今回は使用しました。それ

での作品と比べて何か違いはありますか？

G 野沢温泉の同祖神祭も見て回りましたが、どんな印象

を受けましたか？ T あの純真さには大いに納得するものがありました。地

はまだ市場には出ていないんです。Betaソフトウェアも使

T それぞれの作品がひとつの章で段階を追っているんで

いましたね。カメラシステムを使う実験的な試みもあったの

す。作品が作られた時点ではパーフェクトでした。ぼくは作品

です。撮影クルーたちはその機材を使うために多くの労力

すべてに誇りを持っています。今回の映画は以前に作られ

を注ぎ込みました。

た作品があったからこそ完成することができんだと思います。

元の人々の興奮と、それを取り巻く外国の人々の光景に

『 Community Project 』はぼくたちがやっていることを気

はどう説明していいかわかりませんでした。撮影したものを

G 気候が中心的なテーマとなったことは、あなたにとって

ぼくたちの映画にどのように使えばよいかはわかりません

大きな意義があったのではないでしょうか？

All 』はカメラのテクノロジーの経験を積むことと、テイスト

が、でもすごいなと思いましたし、人々のほとばしる情熱に

T 大いにありましたね。いろいろな場所でクレイジーな気

の違うスノーボーディングの撮影をしたかったんです。 『 Art

s It That ’ s 持ちよく表現させるために必要でした。 『 That ’

は納得させられました。

候と出会いました。ロシアはその点についてはタフな場所

of Flight 』は『 That ’ s it That ’ s All 』から気づいた次の夢な

その祭りをすべて理解しているわけではありませんが、

のひとつでした。アラスカもおなじです。アラスカは歴史を

は作りたくなかったから、 ちょっ んです。でも 『 Art of Flight 2 』 と後戻りして違うアプローチで多角的な映画を撮るのを試

夜な夜な、人々が人目をはばからずに祭りに興じる姿はす

振り返れば過去 3 年間、基準以下だったといえます。でも

ばらしいと思います。

ぼくたちはあえてその困難に挑戦しました。逆に考えれば、 してみたくなりました。 『 The Fourth Phase 』はもっとストー

G 村の年男の男衆にとってその祭りは、彼らの人生なか

簡単なことはだれにでもできるんですからね。

でも重要な夜となるんです。大騒ぎのために村は取締り のバスを用意しようとも話してしています。たぶん効果は あるでしょう。ジミー・チンも祭りに参加して圧倒されたよ

リー性があって個人的な思いが強いです。もっともパーソ ナルなプロジェクトとして方向性を少し変更したんです。

G 人々はあなたが水（海）で過ごしたと知れば驚くのでは

ないでしょうか、セーリングに惹かれた理由は？

つまりこのプロジェクトではスノーボーディングよりもさらに 視野を広げ、気候に注目しました。気候とぼくたち人間と

T 父は本気でセーリングを習いたくて、ぼくが16 歳のとき、

の関係性ですね。これはランディング・トリックよりも重要な

T そんなことがあったんですか。ジミーは2ヶ月ほどぼくたち

彼が24フィート・トリマランのパートナーオーナーになりまし

テーマですし、次の段階に進むための布石でもあるんです。

といっしょだったんです。彼の助けは役に立ちました。彼

た。1年のうち3週間は、ぼくは父とフロリダからバハマ諸島

うでした。

はいまでは国際的に有名になって忙しくて、プロジェクトに

へセーリングに出かけました。何年もその旅をつづけてサー

関わる時間があまりなかったんです。それでも彼が参加し

フィンも体験し、大好きになりました。だから、セーリングと

T 次？今はまだ考えてないですね。というのもスーパーナチュ

てくれて興奮しました。彼はロシアでもいっしょでしたよ。

サーフィンの組み合わせはパーフェクトなんです。近しい友

ラル・コンテストのことで頭が一杯なんです。これに努力とエ

人たちとの航海は楽しいんです。真の人間関係が築けま

ネルギーを費やして成功させたいと思っています。いつか日

G 次は何か考えていますか？

G 撮影でゴープロはいくつ壊れましたか？

す。ここ6年間ほど、私はガールフレンドと毎年2カ月から3カ

本でこのコンテストを開催してみたいですね。日本はこのコン

T たくさん壊れたりなくしたりしましたね。でもおかげで信じ

月ほどボートで暮らすんです。恒例行事になっていますね。

テストには最高の場所になるだろうと思っていますよ。✤ AUTUMN 2016

35

MIYAKOJIMA

Miyako Magic 宮古マジック

Below the ocean surface lies a landscape littered with patches of coral reef, sandy areas and nudibranchs that light up against torches. Huge rocky structures with tunnels and arches plummet into the depths, the sunbeams streaming through them. Bonnie Waycott dives into a world of colorful marine life and limestone as she visits Okinawa's Miyakojima. ここの水面下には珊瑚や砂地、 そして松明に反射して光る 裸鰓類でちりばめられた景色がある。 トンネルやアーチを描く大きな岩が奥深くに腰を据え、 そのあいだから太陽の光が輝いている。

ボニー・ウェイコットは、沖縄の宮古島を訪ね、 色とりどりの海洋生物と石灰岩の世界に潜っていった。

36

T R AV E L E R

AUTUMN 2016

37

BONNIE WAYCOTT

BONNIE WAYCOTT

DIVE KIDS

M

DIVE KIDS

any moons ago, the ocean worked its magic on Miyakojima, creating a haven of tunnels, arches and swim-throughs. During the summer, divers come to the island in droves for a glimpse of these limestone formations.

It is 300 kilometers southwest of Okinawa's main island, and diving off Miyakojima is a journey into a world of colossal structures, a series of rocky outcrops and winding horizontal tunnels that open onto sandy areas or smaller coral reefs.

Inhabited by some of the area's most vibrant creatures, the mixture of underwater topography, blue water and colorful reefs are a viable alternative to some of Okinawa's busier locations.

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T R AV E L E R

Nakanoshima Channel With a 14-meter deep seabed and a collection of mediumsized boulders to start the dive, Nakanoshima Channel is ideal for spotting all manner of marine life. A narrow arch takes you down to around 18 meters, where it's clear this is a haven for a good range of fish and other critters.

Around the rocky structures are schools of red soldier fish with huge black eyes, juvenile bi-color parrotfishes hovering gently close by and, as the seabed is sandy, it's possible to lie on the sand and watch tiny jawfish peering out from their lairs, waiting patiently for divers to move on or immediately disappearing if so inclined.

This dive has a maximum depth of around 20 meters and offers a leisurely drift over a few sandy areas interspersed between rocky structures. Close by is the entrance to a small tunnel with promises of close encounters with a variety of smaller critters.

Don't forget to use a flashlight when examining the

Miyako Magic rocky walls for vibrant sponges, corals, fans and even some urchins. More observant divers will notice the odd leaf scorpion fish or two tucked into the holes and hollows.

As the dive draws to a close, a tiny bit of surge spits divers out of the tunnel to the other side, marking the start of a fun ascent with a range of colorful nudibranchs sticking to their rocky homes.

Hon Drop

Mini Grotto Mini Grotto is the perfect place to experience Miyakojima's rocky structures and tunnels in all their glory. While the miniature life is outstanding here, most divers visit for the tunnels, rocks and swim-throughs. A sloping seabed covered with boulders leads toward the deeper depths while turtles graze close by, unfazed by their audience and enjoying a meal off the rocky patches.

At around 15 meters is a small tunnel where divers penetrate the darkness, flashlights in hand. It's worth taking time to look at the proliferation of nudibranchs that have made this area home. Soon the swim feels like an ascent as the surface of the water approaches with the sun streaming into the exit route, creating a spectacular scene.

An eerie, blue glow in the distance gets brighter and, popping up above the water and breathing in the fresh sea air, it's possible to rest awhile in a small pool of crystalclear water and marvel at the colossal rocky structures all around.

The return journey starts here via the same tunnel, descending once more into the depths, so divers visiting this site must have good ear-clearing skills. It may be dark and gloomy, but the diving doesn't get much better.

Soon, shoals of chromis appear in the shallows, feeding on

drifting plankton, while free-swimming stout chromis and red snapper pass slowly by.

Mao no Kyuden Jump off the boat here, and a scene of boulders and overheads unfolds, followed by a labyrinth of tunnels. With just a few more fin kicks, more walls and rock formations.

An air of mystery and anticipation fills the scene at Mao no Kyuden where several large chambers and tunnels appear linked together.

Although an opening is never far away, it's not hard to lose one's bearings, making navigation here slightly difficult (don't lose sight of your guide). The site's deeper spots (around 25-27 meters) make it more suitable for advanced divers, while those who may be claustrophobic might want to avoid the narrower tunnels altogether.

Dropping down to about five meters, a gentle slope leads to a wall at around 18 meters. Shoaling large-scale soldier fish are everywhere, while schools of sweepers swim in and out, joined by a few other species.

The highlight of this site, however, is a tiny resident candy crab at around 21 meters. Wrapped around a piece of soft coral and wary of the flashlights around him, he lights up in shades of beige and pink.

Next to the candy crab's home is an entrance up a long straight tunnel through a velvety blackness. Soon the tunnel's immense beauty reveals itself as the sun penetrates through, highlighting filefish and sweepers competing with each other for space, as well as an abundance of schooling fish.

A wonderland of vibrant marine life adorns the famous limestone structures of Miyakojima's unique ecosystem.

This stunning underwater landscape, combined with a wide range of fish and tiny critters inhabiting the waters, makes for magical recreational diving and heaven for underwater photographers. ✤

DIVE KIDS

BONNIE WAYCOTT

DIVE KIDS

As its name suggests, this site is a daunting drop-off that rises from 35 meters to a plateau at eight meters. The dive begins down the wall to about 12 meters, where schools of reef fish mill around in the shallows, but the pièce de résistance is a giant trevally that takes refuge in the rocky gullies and overhangs.

When taking photos here, timing is crucial, as the giant trevally is gentle and shy, quickly moving away and out of sight with a flick of its tail. On good days it's possible to see three or four, but most divers are more than happy with just one.

The current at this site can sometimes be mild, but this brings a range of fish to the area, while the sun bathes the area with prism-like ripples of light that skip across the rocks. This is a great site to cruise over a diverse range of marine life—it's the perfect site and amphitheater for curly anemones that house a variety of clownfish as well as the

odd black-spotted pufferfish seen finning away.

Other patches close by provide some of the area's brightest sponges and nudibranchs. The fish life here may be less abundant, but the huge rocky structures keep divers entertained. It's also a good spot to enjoy relaxing macro photography.

AUTUMN 2016

39

ず

っと昔、海は宮古島に魔法の力でトンネル

れが浅瀬でひしめき合っているが、" 主菜 "はというと、ゴツ

メダイの群れが浅瀬に現れ、流れてくるプランクトンを食

やアーチや横穴をつくりあげた。夏になると、 ゴツした小峡谷やオーバーハングに避難しているロウニン

べているいっぽう、かっぷくのいいスズメダイとフエダイが

数多くのダイバーがこの石灰岩が成す自然

ゆっくりと通りすぎていく。

の彫刻を一目見ようと、この島を訪れる。

アジである。 ロウニンアジは恥ずかしがり屋で、あっという間に姿を消

ここは沖縄本土から約 300km 南東にある宮古島。ここ

してしまうので、写真を撮る際にはタイミングが決め手だ。

魔王の宮殿

からダイビングすると、そこは巨大な石の構造が連なる世

運がよければ、３匹か４匹、見ることもできるが、たいてい

ここでボートから飛び降りると大きな岩とオーバーヘッドの

界への旅だ。ゴツゴツとした岩が露出し、曲がりくねってト

のダイバーは１匹だけで満足する。

景色が広がり、そこからはトンネルの迷路だ。もう少しフィ

ンネルをつくり、そこを抜けると砂浜や小さなサンゴ礁に出

ここの海流は穏やかなこともあるが、この流れに乗って

ンをキックすると、岩壁はさらに目の前に広がる。謎の雰

くわす。

さまざまな魚が来るいっぽう、太陽が岩に当たって、プリ

囲気とワクワク感でいっぱいの魔王の宮殿は、いくつかの

色鮮やかな海の生物たちが生息するこの場所は、水中

ズムのような光の波を踊らせる。この数多くの海洋生物

大きな洞窟とトンネルがつながっているようだ。

の地形、蒼い水、色とりどりのサンゴ礁の組み合わせで、

の上を漫遊するのは最高だ。いろいろな種類のクマノミを

開口部はさほど遠くはないが、方向感覚を失ってしまう

沖縄の賑やかなところとは対照的だ。

かくまっている触手をクネクネさせたイソギンチャクや、泳ぎ

こともよくあるため、どこへ進むべきかが少し難しくなる （ガ

さるコクテンフグなど、ありとあらゆるショーを目の前で繰り

イドを見失わないように気をつけること）。ここは深いところ

広げてくれる。

になると25 ～ 27mあり、上級者ダイバー向けだ。閉所恐

海底の深さが14mで、ダイビングのスタートは、いくつもの

ほかにも色鮮やかな海綿や裸鰓類。魚の数はさほど豊

怖症の人は狭いトンネルは一切避けたほうがよい。

中位の岩がある中ノ島チャネルは、あらゆる海洋生物を見

富ではないかもしれないが、大きな岩がダイバーにとっては

5mほどのところへ行くと穏やかな坂になっており、18m

つけるのに最適な場所だ。狭いアーチをくぐると、深さは

楽しい。また、マクロ写真の撮影をしながらリラックスする

のところに壁がある。大きめのテリエビスの群れがそこら

約 18m 。水が澄んでおり、魚やそのほかの生物の種類が

にも最適だ。

じゅうにいる。ハタンポの群れがやってきたりむこうへ行っ

中ノ島チャネル

多い。 岩の構造の周りには、大きな黒い目をしたテリエビスの

ミニ・グロット （ミニ通り池）

群れや、未熟なイロブダイが近くでうろうろしている。海底

ミニ・グロットは、宮古島の洞窟を楽しむのに最適な場所

たりしながら、ほかの種類の魚もそこに混じわる。 しかしながら、ここのハイライトは、水深21mほどのところ に住んでいる小さなイソコンペイトウガニだ。柔らかいサン

は砂なので、横たわって小さなジョーフィッシュが、住処か

だ。小さな海洋生物も楽しいが、ダイバーはたいてい、 ト

ゴに包まれ、水中ライトに照らされることに用心深く、ベー

ら顔を出し、ダイバーが消えさるのをじっと待っている様子

ンネルや岩や横穴が目当てだ。坂になった海底は、深くな

ジュやピンクの光を放つ。

を見ることができるかもしれない。

るにつれ、岩で覆われ、ダイバーたちが見つめていてもま

イソコンペイトウガニの住処の隣には ベルベットのよう

このダイビングは、最高深度が約 20mで、岩の合間に

るで平気な亀が岩壁で食事をしている。

な真っ暗なところを通る、長くまっすぐなトンネルの入り口 がある。しばらくするとそのトンネルは、差し込む太陽の光

散在する砂地の上をゆっくりと揺られていける。近くには小

15mほど潜ると、小さなトンネルがあり、そこは真っ暗な

さなトンネルの入り口があり、さまざまな極小の生き物を間

ので水中ライトは必須だ。ここを住処としている裸鰓類の

でカワハギやハタンポが場所の取り合いをしている姿が見

近で見つけることができる。

増殖を、時間をかけて見てみるのは価値がある。するとま

えるほか、さまざまな魚の群れが輝き、美しさをかもしだす。

色鮮やかな海綿、珊瑚、ウミウチワ、さらにはウニを探

もなく太陽の光が出口を照らし、なんともいえないほど美し

色鮮やかな海洋生物が、宮古島独特のエコシステムで

すために岩壁を調べるときは、水中ライトを使うことだ。観

く、水面が近づいて、浮上していく感じがする。

ある有名な石灰質の岩の構造を装飾するすばらしい景勝 地。この目を見張るような水中の景色と多種多様の魚や

察の鋭いダイバーであれば、穴やくぼみに、ハダハカオコ

遠くを見ると不気味な蒼い輝きがだんだん明るくなり、

ゼなどが隠れているのに気づくだろう。

水面から出て海の空気を吸うと、澄み切った水たまりで休

小さな生物たちの組み合わせで、水中写真撮影にはもっ

ダイビンが終わりに近づくと、水の勢いでダイバーはトン

憩しながら、周りを囲む巨大な岩に驚嘆することだろう。

ネルの向こう側へ押し出され、岩の住処にへばりつく、色

帰りはおなじトンネルからはじまり、もう一度深いところに

てこいの魅惑的なダイビングができる。✤

とりどりの裸鰓類を見ながら、水面への浮上がはじまる。

本ドロップ

潜水するので、耳抜きによる均圧をうまくおこなえるように しなければいけない。暗くて陰気な感じがするかもしれな いが、これこそ最高のダイビングだ。そこからまもなく、スズ

名前からわかるように、この場所は35mから８ mの高さにあ る台地まで、ひるむような断崖だ。ダイビングは壁の下から

DIVE KIDS

はじまり、約 12mのところへ。そこは、リーフフィッシュの群

40

T R AV E L E R

Miyako Magic PRACTICALITIES Getting There: Direct flights are available from Tokyo's Haneda Airport (2 ½ to 3 hours).

Getting Around: Hiring a car is the best way to explore Miyakojima. Most rental firms have an outlet at Miyako Airport, and driving on the island is easy and enjoyable. Bicycles and scooters are also available for rent.

Climate: Mild and sometimes rainy winters and hot summers. Average temperature is around 24 C with the highest average around 32 C in summer.

Water Temperature: This varies between 22-23 C in the winter to 28-33 C in the summer. A 5-mm wetsuit is best during the summer but a 7-mm or something warmer for the winter should work well.

Accommodation: This varies greatly from modest pensions and traditional Japanese inns (minshuku) to western-style business hotels and resorts that are a little bit more expensive.

Additional Info: The two main dive shops on the island are Dive Kids (Web: www.divekids.jp/a/frame1.htm) and Kara Kara Sensei Diving (Web: www.cosmos.ne.jp/~karakara/). Kara Kara Sensei Diving can arrange diving and accommodation packages.

Please note Dive Kids and Kara Kara Sensei Diving don't speak much English and can only answer basic English e-mail inquiries.

If you don't speak Japanese and want to dive off Miyakojima, Bonnie is happy to provide information about travel details.

E-mail bonniewaycott@gmail.com or visit the Rising Bubbles Facebook Page at www.facebook.com/RisingBubblesNotesOfANewDiver.

DIVE KIDS

実用的情報 （２時間半から３時間） 行き方：ノンストップ便は東京・羽田空港からあり

交通の便：宮古島の探検には車のハイヤーがおすすめ。ほとんどのレンタカー会社は宮古空港に支店があり、車で島をまわるのも楽しい。 自転車やスクーターもレンタルできる。

天候：穏やかで、冬は雨が多く、夏は暑い。平均気温は約24℃、平均最高気温は夏で32℃。 水温：冬は22～23℃、夏は28～33℃。夏は５mmのウェットスーツ、冬は７mm、またはそれより温かいものが最適。 宿泊： 質素なペンションから伝統的な民宿もあれば、少し値段の高い洋式のビジネスホテルやリゾートまでいろいろある。

KARA KARA SENSEI DIVING

その他：島の主なダイビングショップは、ダイブキッズ（www.divekids.jp/a/frame1.htm）とカラカラ先生のダイビングスクール宮古島 （Web: www.cosmos.ne.jp/~karakara/）だ。カラカラ先生ダイビングは、ダイビングと宿泊のパッケージを手配してくれる。 ※ダイブキッズもカラカラ先生ダイビングも、英語があまりできないので、英語で問い合わせる場合、基本的なことしか 答えられない。日本語が話せず、宮古島でダイビングを希望する人は、私がお手伝いしますので、

bonniewaycott@gmail.com 宛てにメールで問い合わせるか、フェイスブックで the Rising Bubbles Facebook Page （www.facebook.com/RisingBubblesNotesOfANewDiver ）

DIVE KIDS

BONNIE WAYCOTT

BONNIE WAYCOTT

をご覧ください。

AUTUMN 2016

41

42

T R AV E L E R

J

apan is one of the most plugged-in nations in the world. There aren’t many places in this fiber-optic country where you are truly out of touch. Even on top of iconic Mt. Fuji, you can send a post card to friends or family. So it should not be much of a surprise that many mountain huts in Japan are equipped with modern conveniences such as bathing facilities, hot meals (and cold beer), even satellite TV, computers and WiFi. Then there is Komanokoya. A rare relic that gets down to basics and is refreshingly unconnected.

日

本は時代に即した国だ。国内のいたるところ

に光ファイバーは埋設されているし、あの有名

な富士山の頂上からでも友達や家族にポスト

カードを送ることもできる。だから日本の山小

屋の多くでは入浴ができたり温かい食事 （冷たいビールも）

が用意されたり、衛星テレビ、そしてコンピュータやWi-Fiの 設備まである。 ところが会津駒の小屋にはそんな設備がまっ たくなくて奇異にさえ感じられる。むしろそれがこの小屋の魅 力だ。つまり日々の生活から離れ、リフレッシュできていいの

AIZU UNPLUGGED:

KOMANOKOYA 会津駒ヶ岳 ＜駒の小屋＞

By Pauline Kitamura 文：パウリー・キタムラ 訳：李リョウ

AUTUMN 2016

43

Located high along the ridgeline near the peak of Mt. Aizukomagatake (2,132 meters) in Fukushima Prefecture, this rustic mountain hut requires guests to leave their creature comforts at home and unplug from their hectic modern lives. The only way to get to Komanokoya is via a three-and-a-half-to-four-hour hike with an elevation gain of more than 1,100 meters.

There are no cars, gondolas or motorized short cuts.

Everyone who visits Komanokoya must do it the oldfashioned way, one step at a time.

The path starts off steep through a beautiful forest with occasional peek-a-boo views of the valley below. As you get closer to the top, however, it suddenly opens to sweeping mountain vistas and vast alpine meadows. From here it’s just another short climb up to Komanokoya.

What makes this mountain hut special, and popular (it books out months in advance), is that it has no modern conveniences such as electricity or running water. This is a high-altitude getaway where people come to leave it all behind and bring with them what they need.

The two-story black wooden building has two large sleeping quarters upstairs and a sitting area downstairs where guests can gather and cook their own meals. There are futons and warm blankets for guests to use, so sleeping bags aren’t needed.

The washrooms are located in a separate building outside of the main hut and, while primitive in terms or “technology,” they are immaculately clean with toilet paper provided. There’s no running water but rainwater is gathered and made freely available to guests (and for a small fee for

だ。その山小屋は福島県、会津駒ケ岳2,132mの頂上につ

森は美しく、ときおり渓谷を見下ろすことができる。広大な

たつある。1階は居間で客たちが団欒 （だんらん）や食事を

づく稜線にある。訪れた者に日常の多忙な日々から離れて

山の景色や草地が愛 （め）でることができるのは、頂上に近

つくるところとなっている。布団やブランケットは用意されてい

自分の家のようにくつろぐようにと、そこは諭 （さと） してくれ

づいてきてからだ。そこから駒の小屋はすぐ近くにある。な

るから寝袋を用意する必要はない。洗面所は小屋から離れた ところにある。 トイレッ トペーパーも用意されていて清潔だ。

る。駒の小屋へは３時間半から4時間のハイクでたどり着く

にがこの山小屋を特別なものとして有名にしているのか （予

ことができる。標高差は1,100mだ。車でも行けないしゴンド

約は数ヶ月先まで一杯） 。ここには近代的な設備もないし、

水道は通っていないが雨水を集めて客が使えるようにし

ラやそのほかの交通手段はなく、山道を自分の足で登るし

電気も水道もない。近代的な日常生活をすべて置き去りに

てある （日帰りの客には少しばかりの使用料がかかる） 。水

かない。

して訪れる高地の入り口なのだ。

を沸かしたり食事に使ったり、翌日の登山の飲料水として

山小屋へつづく道は深い森の険しい道からスタートする。

黒い木造2階建てのその小屋。2階には大きな寝室がふ

客はそれを利用する。 小屋には小さな売店もあり手作りの

44

T R AV E L E R

day visitors) who can boil the water for their meals and the next day’s hike back down.

There’s even a small shop inside where you can buy handmade souvenirs and crafts, unique T-shirts sold only to those who’ve made the climb up to the hut, plus snacks and drinks (beer is available during the colder seasons).

The truly special moments at this mountain hut are when the sun starts to fall and darkness sets in. The only light comes from the moon and stars in the sky and the warm glow of kerosene lamps lit throughout the hut every evening.

As you watch the flames flicker, it transports you back to a much simpler and peaceful time. Your internal clock tells you to sleep when the sun sets and wake up when it rises.

Sayuri and Kazuhiro Miyoshi manage Komanokoya. The warm, wonderful couple fell in love with this beautiful mountain and the simple way of life. This is their ninth season up on Mt. Aizukomagatake where they mostly live throughout the year, coming down off the mountain only once or twice a week to take a bath and resupply.

They have no refrigerator, no electric stoves, no

computers, no bathtubs or showers and, of course, no TV. Food and necessities are dropped in by helicopter two to three times during a season. The rest they carry up in their backpacks. It may not be the easiest way of life, but the simplicity of not having everything at your fingertips makes it special for them and their guests.

The premier hiking on this long ridgeline is famous for alpine ponds and the abundance of flowers during the summer. Once you reach Komanokoya, you’ll definitely want to take a hike up to the top of Mt. Aizukomagatake and, if

お土産やちょっとした品を買うことができるし、ユニークなデ

とともに眠り、夜明けとともに目を覚ますときを告げる。ミヨ

品はヘリコプターでシーズン中に2～3回届けられる。残りは

ザインのTシャツもあり、この小屋に登ってきた者だけが手に

シ・カズヒコ？とサユリ？ （漢字表記）がこの駒の小屋のマ

彼らが背中に担いで運び上げる。それは簡単な仕事ではな

入れられる。また軽食や飲み物も用意されている （ビールは

ネージャーだ。心温かいカップルはここの美しい山に心を奪

い。都会のように指先ひとつでなんでも手に入るわけでは

寒い季節に利用できる） 。この山小屋のすばらしいひととき

われ、シンプルライフをまっとうしている。彼らが会津駒ケ岳

ないが、その苦役 （くえき）こそがこの小屋を彼らやゲストに

は夕闇が迫った頃だ。月と星空の下で灯油ランプが山小屋

に住むようになって9年になる。1年の大半を小屋で過ごし、

よって特別な場所にしている。長い稜線をハイクしたその先

で毎晩灯される。

週に一度か二度入浴と物資を運ぶために下山する。彼ら

には高地の天然池と、夏のあいだだけ咲きほこる高山植物

ランプの炎を見つめているうちにあなたはシンプルで平和

は冷蔵庫を持っていない。電気ストーブもコンピュータも風

がある。一度駒の小屋にたどり着いたら会津駒ケ岳を登頂

な時間に浸ることができる。身体の内なる時計が、夕暮れ

呂もシャワーでさえも、もちろんテレビもない。食物や必需

したくなる。もし時間に余裕があれば往復2時間のハイクで AUTUMN 2016

45

you have enough time, take a quick jaunt out to the scenic Nakamondake, about a two-hour round trip walk.

(Note: In May there may still be snow on the ground, so you might want to bring some lightweight crampons and trekking poles). Be sure to wake up early to catch the sunrise from outside the hut; you won’t want to miss it.

Sometimes it’s nice to have convenience right at your fingertips but, if you can let it all go, even for just a weekend, you’ll get hooked on the wonderful simplicity of the Komanokoya way of life. ✤

Hiking Route Options & Times To Komanokoya Mountain Hut •• From Komagatake trailhead: Approx. 3.5 hours •• From Kirinte trailhead: Approx. 4.5 hours •• From Ozemiike trailhead: Approx. 5.5 hours From Komanokoya Mountain Hut •• To the top of Mt. Aizukomagatake: Approx.

20 minutes (round trip approx. 35 minutes) •• To Nakamondake: Approx.

70 minutes (round trip approx. 2 hours, 15 minutes)

Komanokoya Mountain Hut Information The hut is open from the last Saturday of April until the last Saturday of October. Closed during the winter due to heavy snow. Mountain hut accommodation only. No tents allowed. The cost is ¥3,000 per person (no meals included, so be sure to bring your own food). Japanese-style futons and warm blankets are provided.

This is a popular mountain hut, so hikers make reservations months in advance especially during the summer season. There are no other accommodation options on top of the mountain, so reservations are essential.

駒の小屋の情報

行ける中門岳まで行くことをお勧めする （注意：五月くらいま

ハイキングルートについて

では残雪があるために軽量のクランポンや登山用ポールを

駒の小屋への上山

小屋が営業している期間は4月の最終日曜日から10月の最終土曜

携行することをお勧めする） 。それから忘れてはならないこと

• 会津駒ケ岳滝沢登山口からは約 3.5 時間

日まで。冬季は豪雪にために閉鎖。宿泊は小屋のみでテント泊は

は、かならず夜明け前に起きて小屋の外で日の出を眺める

• キリンテからは約 4.5 時間

禁止。宿泊代は1 泊ひとり3,000 円（食事は含まれていないから食

• 尾瀬御池からは約 5.5 時間

料は持参すること）。布団と毛布は用意されている。ここは人気の

駒の小屋から

この山にはほかの宿泊施設はないから予約はかならずすること。

こと。指先ひとつでなんでも便利に手に入れるって良いこと かもしれない。でもそういう便利なことは、街に置き去りにし て週末だけ駒の小屋で過ごしてみたらきっとすばらしい思い 出になるだろう。✤

46

T R AV E L E R

ある山小屋のため、数ヶ月先まで予約は一杯、とくに夏の季節。 • 会津駒ケ岳の頂上へは約 20 分（往復 35 分）

予約とお問い合わせは

• 中門岳へは約 70 分（往復約 2 時間 15 分）

Tel: 080-2024-5375（ 7:20pmまで）

Contact Information Tel: 080-2024-5375 (available until 7:20 p.m.)

E-mail: info@komanokoya.com Website: www.komanokoya.com

Tobu Asakusa Station to Kinugawa Onsen Station. Transfer to the Aizu Mount Express train headed to Aizukougen-Ozeguchi Station. (Depart Asakusa 8:00 a.m. - Arrive Aizukouen-Ozeguchi 10:46 a.m.). From Aizukougen-Ozeguchi, take the 11 a.m. Aizu bus to Komagatake Tozanguchi bus stop (around 12:35 p.m.).

From the bus stop, cross the road. There’s a public restroom as well as tap where you can fill up your water bottle. The trailhead is about a 30-minute walk up the paved road where there are public parking spaces available as well.

What to Bring •• Rain jacket and pants •• Warm clothes (fleece/down jacket), it can get cold up on the mountain at night and in the morning •• Headlamp and spare batteries •• Portable cooking stove and gas •• Pots, cooking/eating utensils •• Food (dinner, breakfast as well as snacks/lunch for during the hike) •• Water (enough for the hike up; water for cooking and for the next day is available at the mountain hut)

E-mail: info@komanokoya.com

オプション2

携行する装備

Website: www.komanokoya.com

東武浅草駅から特別快速（鬼怒 #103 ）に乗って鬼怒川温泉駅

• 雨具上下

へ。AIZUマウントエキスプレスに乗り換えて会津高原尾瀬口駅へ

• 暖かい衣類（フリースやダウンジャケット等）、山は朝や夜は気温

Getting There From Tokyo Option 1: Take the rapid train from Tobu Asakusa Station (Tobu Kinugawa Line) to Aizukougen-Ozeguchi Station. (Depart Asakusa 6:20 a.m. - Arrive Aizukouen-Ozeguchi 9:25 a.m.).

From Aizukougen-Ozeguchi, take the 9:50 a.m. Aizu bus to Komagatake Tozanguchi bus stop (around 11 a.m.).

Option 2: Take the Special Rapid train (Kinu #103) from

東京からのアクセス

（浅草を8:00am に出発すれば、会津高原の尾瀬口に 10:46am

が下がる。

オプション1

到着）。そこから11:00am 発の会津バスに乗車し、駒ケ岳登山口

• ヘッドランプとバッテリー

東武鬼怒川線の東武浅草駅から快速に乗って会津高原尾瀬口

のバス停下車（到着は12:35am 頃）。

• 調理用のストーブと燃料

駅へ（浅草を6:20am に出れば 9:25am に到着）。そこから9:50am

バス停で下車すると通りの反対側に公共の休憩所があり、飲み

• 調理用具と食器

発 の 会 津 バスに乗って駒ケ岳 登 山 口 のバス停 下 車（ 到 着は

水などを補給できる。登山口はそこから道を30 分ほど歩いたとこ

• 食料（夕食、朝食、ハイク中に食べるスナックや昼食）

11:00am 頃）

ろ。公共の駐車場もある。

• 水（ハイク中の水分補給。食事と翌日の水は山小屋で手に入る） AUTUMN 2016

47

Islands of the Demon King マンボウの島

By Tim Rock & Elaine Kwok

Banner fish swirled around the huge body of this denizen of the deep, angelfish, wrasses and a few other fish also pecked at its skin. It hovered in the open blue, not far above the coral reef from where we calmly watched. One of the largest, oddest and rarest of sights in the sea, the mola mola (also called the ocean sunfish) cruises serenely by.

It’s hard to believe we are a boat ride away from the frenetic nightlife of Kuta and Legian. 深い海に生息するこの巨大な生物の周りを バナーフィッシュが泳ぎ、エンゼルフィッシュや ベラなどがその身体をつついていた。 その生き ものは、私たちが静かに見守るリーフからほど 近い青の空間に浮かんでいた。海洋生物の 中でもとくに珍重されているモラモラ（マンボ ウ） が穏やかに泳いでいた。 クタやレギアンの 熱狂的なナイトライフから、ボートで来られる 場所だとは、にわかに信じられなかった。

48

T R AV E L E R

B

ali beckons many travelers to its mystical, tropical shores, and among those who answer the call are divers. Bali has some great dive spots, but relatively few venture off the southeast coast to the three islands where some remarkable diving awaits.

Here the currents run strong and the corals are healthy and varied. It is a great place for all kinds of diving, from wild drifts to sedate searches and seasonal infestations of the oceanic sunfish. Strange and shy, this huge pelagic beast is a rarity to see for reef-dwelling scuba divers.

These islands are a secret no more to the diving community and offer regular encounters with manta rays as well. Huge, graceful and as odd-looking as the mola, mantas glide along the coast of Nusa Penida, the largest of the three islands.

Rugged and inviting, Nusa Penida has little interior water, so most residents stay near the coast, leaving the big island and its towering cliffs to the gods. There isn’t as much tourism as at nearby Nusa Lembongan, yet the treelined beaches and quiet villages flanking the island’s sandy shores sit next to some of the richest reefs in the world.

On the west end, the eerie white limestone coastline of Penida rises straight up from the sea in sharp foliagecovered cliffs. From the northwest shore you can see Gunung Agung, the majestic volcano ascending high into the clouds on Bali.

Penida’s wild terrain has been the inspiration for fables and myths. Balinese widely believe the island is the source of black magic and are careful what they say to the residents here. Natural disasters are said to have been caused by the giant demon king, Jero Gede Macaling, who hails from Nusa Penida.

バ

リはトロピカルなビーチを求めて訪れる旅行 者はもちろん、ダイバーにもひじょうに人気

だ。バリにはおすすめのダイビングスポットが

たくさんあるが、最高のダイビングが待ち受け

る3つの島まで、南東の海岸から足を伸ばすダイバーはさほ

ど多くない。 流れが強いため、ここのサンゴ礁は健康で豊かだ。ドリフ トダイビングやゆっくり探検するのはもちろん、季節によって 見ることができるマンボウなど、さまざまなダイビングを楽しむ ことができる。不思議で恥ずかしがり屋のマンボウは、リー フ好きなダイバーにとってはかなり価値のある遠洋の巨大 魚である。 ここはダイビングコミュニティでは有名で、マンタレイなど との遭遇率も高い。見た目もマンボウとおなじくらい不思議 な、巨大で優雅なマンタは、3つの島のなかでもっとも大き いヌサペニダ島の沿岸を泳いでいる。 険しさが魅力のヌサペニダは、内陸に水資源が少ない ため、ほとんどの住人は沿岸部に住んでおり、島と塔のよ うにそびえる崖のほとんどは神のものだ。隣のヌサレンボン ガン島のような観光地ではないが、世界有数の豊かなサン ゴ礁のそばには、ビーチに並ぶ静かな村が木にふちどられ ている。 西の端には不気味に白い石灰岩のペニダの海岸線が、 海からまっすぐそびえている。南西の海岸から見えるのは、 雲まで届きそうなバリ島のアグン火山だ。 大自然を誇るペニダ島には寓話や神話がたくさんある。 バリニーズたちは、黒魔術の起源はこの島だと信じている ので、島の住民に話すときは注意しているらしい。自然災害 などは、このヌサペニダからやってくる巨大な悪魔の王、ジェ ロ・ゲデ・マカリンがもたらすと信じられているのだ。

AUTUMN 2016

49

Nusa Lembongan is a small but popular day trip destination southwest of Nusa Penida. Once solely a surfer’s haven, a boom of sorts is currently underway with fast ferries carrying large groups of people across the straits daily from Bali in less than an hour. Hotels, restaurants and modest homestays are sprouting up everywhere.

A few dive services have set up shop on the island.

These include World Diving, Bali Diving Academy and Bali Hai Diving Adventures. Diving from Lembongan beats the daily commute across the channel done by many dive shops on Bali.

Sandwiched in between Penida and Lembongan is tiny Nusa Ceningan. A short foot bridge spans the narrow channel between the two islands. The nearby village is full of fishermen and seaweed farmers who work the nearby waters and inner reef flats. A few hotels and homestays overlook the sea on this once quiet isle.

While demons are not beloved by Balinese, demon rays are a delight to divers. John Chapman of World Diving Lembongan absolutely loves mantas. He’s been on Lembongan for years but gets as giddy as a schoolboy about manta dives.

The south Penida coastline is home to a huge group of manta rays that can sometimes be seen from the air swimming in current lines near the cliffs, feeding and gliding through the sea.

Some are reef mantas, joined by their larger pelagic cousins. There's even a mystical white manta I have seen leaping from the water on the way to Manta Point.

Given the proper sea conditions, Manta Point, east of Penida's famed Arch Rock, can be enjoyed by all levels of divers. Snorkelers can even watch giant devilfish coast gracefully below them. Groups of manta rays gather at the reef area surrounding this large rock to visit the cleaning stations, mate and feed in the current with their immense mouths gaping open.

There is a "flyway" of sorts they follow, like deer on a forest trail. They will come in along this invisible path and hover over a series of very large boulders holding cleaning stations. Look for the small cleaner wrasses that like to preen these animals. It was here John, Elaine and I watched as they took turns romping and getting cleaned.

They come big and small and run the spectrum from nearly pure white to light gray with underbellies a brilliant white to jet-black with just a speck of white on the mandibles. Mantas can be curious, and we enjoyed some close encounters as they checked us out as we hovered.

50

T R AV E L E R

ヌサレンボンガン島はヌサペニダの南西に位置し、小さな 島だが日帰り旅行に人気だ。かつてはサーファー天国だっ たが、いまではバリからファーストボートに乗って、1時間もか けずに来ることができるので、観光客のグループも多く、ホ テルやレストラン、ホームステイなどもどんどん増えている。 ワールドダイビング、バリダイビング・アカデミー、バリハイ・ ダイビングアドベンチャーをはじめとするダイビングショップも できていて、チャンネルを渡るダイビングでは、バリのショッ プよりも人気だ。 ペニダとレンボンガンに挟まれているのが、小さなヌサセ ニンガン島で、レンボンガンとの短い海峡は橋でつながって いる。近隣の村には、近くの海や平らなサンゴ礁で働く漁 師や海藻農家が住んでいて、静かな島には海が見えるホテ ルやホームステイが何軒かある。 バリニーズは悪魔を恐れているが、悪魔のマンタはダイ バーに大人気だ。ワールドダイビング・レンボンガンのジョン・ チャップマンもマンタのファンで、レンボンガンには何年も通 いつづけているはずなのに、マンタの話になるとすっかり舞 い上がった感じになる。 ペニダの南岸はマンタレイのグループの住み処となってお り、上空からは、崖のそばを流れにそって海を飛ぶように泳 いでいる姿を見ることができる。 リーフマンタもいれば、遠洋マンタもいて、マンタポイント へ行く途中には、伝説のホワイトマンタが水中から飛び上が るのを見たこともある。 海の状況さえ合えば、ペニダ島の有名なアーチロックの 東にあるマンタポイントは、どのレベルのダイバーでも楽し める。シュノーケルでさえ、眼下を優雅に泳ぐ巨大なデビル フィッシュを見ることができる。マンタのグループは、大きな 岩を囲むように存在する珊瑚礁のクリーニングステーション に集まり、交尾したり、巨大な口をぱっくり開けてエサを食 べたりしている。 彼らには、森にすむ鹿のような特有のけもの道があるら しく、目に見えない道を通ってやってきては、クリーニングス テーションを擁する大きな岩の上を旋回する。ベラが彼らを 掃除しているのも見ることができるだろう。ジョンとエレインと 私も、マンタたちが順番に掃除してもらうのを見た。 マンタはサイズも大小さまざまで、色も、ほとんどまっ白な ものから、薄グレーでお腹が白いもの、下あごのみ白くてほ かは漆黒の種類などがいる。マンタは好奇心旺盛なので、 かなり近くで見ることができるかもしれない。

Islands of the Demon King

Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa

offers an Authentically Bali™ experience through the feature of its 382 guestrooms and suites; highlighting the admirable views of the ocean and gardens.

Nusa Dua Spa a spa pioneer on the island, retains the rich Balinese tradition through its marvelous designs and variety of treatments.

NUSA DUA BEACH HOTEL & SPA, BALI – INDONESIA Tel: +62 (361) 771 210 reservations@nusaduahotel.com www.nusaduahotel.com

AUTUMN 2016

51

Mola Mola Jurassic Point or Crystal Bay are where ocean sunfish like to hang out. They are normally alone getting cleaned by bannerfish and angelfish but can sometimes be found in small groups. It is quite a sight to see as they hang vertically in the water while these fish rummage all over their bodies.

Mola come near the reef only briefly, presumably to mate and preen. My guide Selamat seemed even more eager than me to spot one. As we floated down along the wall at Jurassic Point passing whitetip sharks, giant bull rays and blue-spot stingrays, Selamat kept an eye out into the blue.

Sunfish are big but also narrow and, if you don't see them from the side, you may miss them.

Sure enough, an excited yell through his regulator alerted me to a cleaning mola up ahead. We slowed our approach and watched as busy bannerfish and Emperor angelfish pecked and preened this giant disk of a fish. As we got close, it shied away, then headed out to the open sea after I fired a few shots from my camera. But to our delight, the call to clean overrode the call to flee, and it circled and returned.

During the course of a week, we saw molas at Pura Ped, Crystal Bay, Toyapakeh and the Jurrassic Point. The highlight for me took place on the boat, however. I had heard stories about the molas leaping from the sea and even seen a video.

Suddenly, while taking some shots of Crystal Bay's arch, it happened. A mola broke the surface near our boat and completely cleared the ocean, loudly splashing back in a full-bodied flop. Amazing.

Sunfish come into the reefs of Lembongan Island during late August and early September, but are also seen from June through November. They typically stay in an area punctuated by cold ocean upwellings and it is safest to look for them at slack tide.

Lembongan and its neighboring isles are a real treasure for divers above and below. At night, the island is quiet, and there are some nice restaurants to enjoy dinner and drinks.

This was certainly not my first trip and won't be my last, although it may have been the most rewarding to date. Like me, you may need to exercise your demons here again and again. ✤

52

T R AV E L E R

モラモラ ジュラシックポイントやクリスタルベイはマンボウのお気に 入りだ。単独行動が多く、バナーフィッシュやエンゼルフィッ シュに掃除されているが、小さなグループにいることもある。 水中で垂直に浮かぶマンボウにむらがった魚たちが、身体 をついばむ様子はなかなかの見ものだ。 モラがリーフにやってくるのは、交尾のときと身づくろい のときだけなので、ガイドのスラマは私より興奮しているよう だった。ジュラシックポイントのウォールにそって、ヨゴレザ メ、ジャイアントブルレイ、ブルースポットスティングレイなどを 見ながら下降していくと、スラマは真っ青な海中を凝視した。 マンボウは大きいが幅がないので、横から見ないと見逃して しまうこともある。 すると、予想通り、レギュレータ越しに彼の興奮した声が 聞こえてきて、目の前にマンボウが現れた。私たちは近づく のをやめて、バナーフィッシュやエンペラーエンゼルフィッシュ がマンボウの巨体をつつくのを眺めた。少し近づくと、遠ざ かってしまい、その姿を写真に何枚か収めると広い海に消 えていった。ところがうれしいことに、もっと掃除をしてほし かったようで、向きを変えるとこちらに戻ってきたのだった。 トヤパケ、ジュラ 1週間で、ピュラペッドとクリスタルベイ、 シックポイントでマンボウを見ることができたが、ハイライトは ボートの上で起こった。モラが海から飛び上がることは聞い たことがあるし、ビデオでも見たことがあった。 クリスタルベイのアーチを撮影しているあいだにそれは突 然起きた。モラが海面から飛び出したかと思うと、大きな水 しぶきを上げながら全身で海面に落ちていったのだ。それ は得もいわれぬ光景だった。 マンボウは8月終わりから9月初めにかけてレンボンガン島 のリーフを訪れるが、6月から11月にかけても見ることができ ゆうしょう

る。彼らはたいてい冷水の湧昇がある場所にいて、潮だる みのあたりを探すのがもっとも効率的だ。 レンボンガンと近隣の島々はダイバーなら陸でも海でも楽 しむことができる。夜は静かではあるが、おしゃれなレストラ ンでディナーを楽しむこともできる。初めて訪れたわけでもな いし、これが最後になるわけでもないが、これまででもっとも 満足度の高い旅だった。ここでは私のように悪魔の訓練が 何度も必要なのかもしれない。✤

Islands of the Demon King Lembongan Diving

レンボンガンダイビング World Diving Lembongan (at Pondok Baruna Guest House) Tel. +62 812 390 0686 e-mail: info@world-diving.com Web: www.pondokbaruna.com/diving Bali Diving Academy Tel. +62 (0)361 270252 e-mail: info@scubali.com Web: www.scubali.com Bali Hai Diving Adventures Tel. +62 361 724 062 e-mail: reservations@balihaidiving.com Web: www.balihaidiving.com

PRACTICALITIES Getting There: Nusa Lembongan is approximately an hour’s boat trip from Sanur. Depending on your flight schedule. it is sometimes necessary to overnight in Bali before catching a boat. Transfers usually include free pick-up and drop-off from the airport, Jimbaran, Kuta, Seminyak, Legian and Sanur.

Weather / Climate: The climate of Nusa Lembongan is similar to the neighboring “mainland” of Bali, but it is noticeably drier, particularly from May to September. The year-round average maximum temperature is 28-30 celsius degrees with minimums ranging from 23- 25 degrees.

Language: Balinese is the most common language of communication between local residents. Bahasa Indonesian and English are also widely understood and spoken.

Staying Connected: The island receives good 3G but be mindful of the cost of making calls from mobile phones. Most restaurants and accommodations offer free WiFi access to guests. There are also public Internet cafes in Jungut Batu.

お役立ち情報 アクセス：ヌサレンボンガンはサヌールからボートで約１時 間。飛行機のスケジュールによってはバリに1 泊しなければ ならない。ボートには、空港、ジンバラン、クタ、スミニャック、 レギアン、サヌールからの送迎がたいてい含まれている。

気候：レンボンガンの気候はバリとよく似ているが、５月から９ 月はとくに乾燥している。年間の平均最高気温は28～30℃、 最低平均は23～25℃前後。

言語：地元の人はバリ語だが、バハサインドネシアと英語も よく使われる。

通信環境：3Gの電波は良いが、携帯電話からの電話料金 は要確認だ。レストランや宿泊施設にはフリー Wi-Fiがあるし、 ジュングバトゥにはインターネットカフェなどもある。

AUTUMN 2016

53

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY HOKKAIDO

HOKKAIDO

Amazingly Dry Powder Snow

Head to Hokkaido's last frontier ' ' www.facebook.com/HokkaidoPowderBelt HOKKAIDO

HOKKAIDO

HOKKAIDO

NAGANO

NAGANO

NAGANO

SKI JAPAN

Season runs from December 3rd to May 6th (With Mother Natures Blessing)

Come in December, March or April and beat the crowds and save some money!

tel. 050 5532 6026 www.nozawaholidays.com

54

T R AV E L E R

FUKUSHIMA

NAGANO

NAGANO

NIIGATA

NIIGATA

NAGANO

GUNMA

NAGANO

AUTUMN 2016

55

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY GUNMA

SHIZUOKA

SHIZUOKA

SAITAMA

GUNMA

KOCHI

Refresh your Mind, Body & Soul

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.

KU

Refreshing outdoor adventure experiences under 2 hours from Tokyo!

Whitewater rafting, canyoning, adventure combos.....

0278-72-2811 www.canyons.jp 56

T R AV E L E R

ft.com appyra 0 info@h 50 0 5 7 7 ho 088 toyo-c ahara O n 789-0158 10-4 Iw e k ih c o com ft..c raft a-gun K ap pyra Nagaok ://www.h

ft http aft HappyR

TOKYO

TOKYO

TOKYO

TOKYO

CELEBRATING HUMAN POWER AND INTRODUCING THE QUIET BACKSTREETS, BEAUTIFUL PARKS AND UNIQUE CULTURE OF TOKYO NOT FOUND ON TOURIST MAPS.

freewheeling.jp NARA

TOKUSHIMA

OKINAWA

OKINAWA

TOKYO

USA

FIND YOUR PERFECT GETAWAY!

Specializing in Resort Properties in Niseko Hanazono and Hakuba's Wadano Area

SNOWBOARD WITH THE LOCALS Nagano ◊ Niseko Alaska ◊ USA ◊ Canada www.cloudlinetours.com We provide real estate expertise and bilingual assistance for finding your ideal resort property.

Phone: 03-3556-8887 info@yamate-homes.co.jp www.yamate-homes.co.jp

AUTUMN 2016

57

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE DIRECTORY MICRONESIA

MICRONESIA

MICRONESIA

THAILAND

KOH LANTA KRABI THAILAND

email: reservation@pimalai.com

www.pimalai.com

Discover Nature, Discover Yourself.

TAIWAN

BALI 癒しの空間で... 波を心いくまで満喫...

サーフィンガイド サーフィンコーチ ラグジャリーな宿泊施設

Surf Guiding Surf Coaching Luxury Accommodation

Feel at home...

Enjoy the ride...

VIETNAM

■ NEPAL

58

T R AV E L E R

www.thechillhouse.com VIETNAM