Outdoor Japan Traveler | Issue 71 | Summer 2019 by Outdoor Japan

ISSUE 71

SUMMER 2019

TRAVELER

EVERY SEASON IS A NEW ADVENTURE

FREE | ¥0

JAPAN’S TOP 10 DIVES CONQUERING THE KITA ALPS RIDGES GRAVITY-DEFYING FARMING IN TOKUSHIMA THE ORIGINAL MOUNTAIN MARATHON RETURN TO PALAU ROAD TRIP: THE FUJI LOOP CYCLING JAPAN: KUMANO KODO BEER BUZZ: KAMPAI! IN KANSAI

INSIDE ISSUE 71

SUMMER 2019

Japan's Top 10 Dives

FEATURES

the 23 Conquering Kita Alps Ridges

Road Trip: The Fuji Loop

Original Mountain Marathon 14 The

Return to Palau

INSIDE From the Editor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Summer Events & Music . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Beer Buzz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Gravity-Defying Farming in Tokushima

Market Watch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Cycling Japan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Japan Eco Track. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 PICA: Wild Family Fun in Fuji . . . . . . 32 Travel & Adventure Directory . . . . . 40

Summer 2019 | 3

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FROM THE EDITOR Published Seasonally

he Winter Olympics returned to Japan in 1998, twenty-six years after being held in Sapporo. Around that time there seemed to be a number of characters in various parts of Japan starting tourism and adventure travel-related businesses. I was one of

them. It seems like yesterday I was making cold calls and trying to rustle up interest in a fledgling “webzine” called Outdoor Japan. One of the first doors I knocked on was a rafting company in Minakami, Gunma managed by New Zealander Mike Harris. It quickly became apparent Mike saw great potential in Japan as an outdoor playground and we shared a similar vision that Japan could become Asia’s premier four-season destination. Around that same time, I headed north with a couple friends for a late April snowboarding mission to Gassan in Yamagata. After riding some amazing late spring powder and soaking in an outdoor hot spring, we headed down the hill to check out Gassan Beer, a local brewery making some nice German-style craft beers. This great trifecta—powder, hot water and craft beer—is one of two main reasons I have lived in Japan for more than twenty years and why I’ll probably end my days here (the most important trifecta of course being my wife and two sons). I’m easily sidetracked and before getting to the brewery we passed a stunning bridge crossing high over the Bonji River. There, in the middle of the bridge was an A.J. Hacket-style bungy jump platform where a tall Kiwi named Charles Odlin was calmly coercing a young woman to throw herself off the bridge. Fast forward a couple decades. Mike has gone on to pioneer canyoning in Japan and is the founder and CEO of Canyons as well as an ambassador for Japan Tourism. Charles deftly navigated Japan’s bureaucratic minefield to start the largest bungy company in Japan—Bungy Japan—and has been focusing on destination management for regional tourism in Japan. I’m excited to announce for the first time in 19 years, Outdoor Japan is under new ownership and has a new management team. Mike and Charles have joined Rie and me to create a new company to take Outdoor Japan forward during an exciting time for adventure travel and tourism in Japan. We are thrilled to have their expertise and experience. Our first priority was to completely revamp and relaunch the Outdoor Japan website and revive the largest content library anywhere for outdoors and adventure travel in Japan. We still believe in quality over quantity, but the new site will allow us to give readers more timely digital content about events, activities and destinations, and continue to help people get outside, explore and be active. We hope you will kick the tires and share your feedback. A year from now, in the summer of 2020, the Olympics return 56 years after hosting the first Summer Olympics in Tokyo. Outdoor Japan will turn twenty during the Games, an age when young people in Japan celebrate Coming of Age Day (Seiji no Hi). The milestone makes me feel proud—and old—yet it feels like Outdoor Japan is coming of age a year early. Enjoy our summer

PUBLISHER Outdoor Japan G.K. DIRECTORS Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Gardner Robinson MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR Rie Miyoshi CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Bill Ross CONTRIBUTORS Joan Bailey, Amy Chavez, Bryan Harrel, Neil Hartmann, Abdel Ibrahim, Pauline Kitamura, Takashi Niwa, Tim Rock, Justin Stein DESIGN Mojoworks

OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. 45 Yubiso, Minakami-machi, Tone-gun, Gunma-ken 379-1728 EDITORIAL INQUIRIES editor@outdoorjapan.com VIDEO / MEDIA PRODUCTION media@outdoorjapan.com SPONSORSHIP / PROMOTIONS media@outdoorjapan.com DESTINATION MARKETING media@outdoorjapan.com

issue, which features old friend and consummate pro Tim Rock highlighting the diverse and beautiful diving in Japan, and be sure to jump online for even more content there. Every season

 www.facebook/japantraveler

is a new adventure in Japan, get outside and have a great summer!

 www.twitter.com/outdoorjapan  www.youtube.com/outdoorjapan — Gardner Robinson

 www.instagram.com/outdoorjapan

Editor-in-Chief

AIRLINE PARTNERS

Traveler magazine is available at selected lounges, reservations counters and in-flight libraries with the following airline partners.

トラベラーマガジンは、空港ラウンジや予約カウンターや、右記航空会社インフライト・ライブラリーにてお読みいただけます。

©2019 OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Views expressed herein are not necessarily those of OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. Printed in Japan.

Cover Photo: Tim Rock

Summer 2019 | 5

GUIDELINES

Summer Events and Music FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

Nebuta Festival

Spartan Race Aizu Sprint

prefecture of Aomori for the annual Nebuta

festival, this four-day celebration on the island of

Crowds converge on Honshu’s northernmost

Tokushima Awa Odori Festival Rated by many as Japan’s best summer

This five-kilometer “sprint” is the shortest

Matsuri. Large floats depicting kabuki (traditional

Shikoku rings in the Japanese obon holidays with

race in the Spartan Series. There is also a two-

Japanese plays) are wildly wheeled around across

awa odori dances. It attracts nearly 1.3 million

kilometer kids’ race so the whole family can have

the Tsugaru Plain. The festival closes with a grand

some fun. Be sure to squeeze in a visit to the

finale of fireworks. When: Aug. 2-7 Where: Aomori City, Aomori

spectators, so be sure to book early. When: Aug. 12-15 Where: Tokushima City, Tokushima

nearby Tsuruga Castle. When: July 6 Where: Aizuwakamatsu, Fukushima Web: www.spartanrace.jp

Earth Celebration Kanto Festival The Kanto Festival celebrates Akita’s

Sado Island, just off the coast of Niigata, hosts this international music festival with

abundant harvest with an impressive sight—100-

three days of powerful percussion and music

lb. bamboo poles holding up countless lanterns

performances, art and culture. The festival

a great summer destination as well. Enjoy some

which illuminate the streets as pole bearers

is headlined by Kodo, a world-renowned

zen moments as you stretch out those muscles

precariously balance them on hips, shoulders and

Japanese taiko group based in Sado. There are

while looking out upon Mt. Yotei. When: July 26-28 Where: Niseko, Hokkaido www.nisekotourism.com

even foreheads. When: Aug. 3-6 Where: Kanto O-dori, Akita

performances every evening at the main hub in

Niseko Yoga Festival Although Niseko is renowned for powder, it’s

Niseko Hanazono Hill Climb Enshu Arai Fireworks Festival Nothing quite says summer in Japan like

The 10th annual Hanazono Hill Climb is a great way to explore the popular Niseko region

Ogi Town. Other attractions include dance and taiko workshops, stalls selling goods from around the world and local handmade crafts. When: Aug. 16-18 Where: Sado Island, Niigata www.kodo.or.jp

fireworks. Bust out your summer kimono and

as you cycle from Kutchan Community Hall to

enjoy the impressive tezutsu (traditional hand-

Goshiki Onsen. This 16-kilometer bike race ends

held fireworks) launch and light up the night sky

at the 796-meters-high hot spring on the northern

at Suwa Shrine. Several hundred fireworks are

base of Mt. Annupuri. Racers will have the chance

launched at this 260-year-old festival. When: July 26-28 Where: Arai, Shizuoka

to ride through the annual Kutchan Potato Festival

illuminate the water around the shrine. Visitors

as well. When: Aug. 5 Where: Kutchan/Niseko, Hokkaido www.nisekohillclimb.com

Miyajima to view the fireworks (¥180 one-way). When: Aug. 24 Where: Itsukushima Shrine, Hiroshima

Higashi Izu Adventure Rally

Extreme Series: Okuoi

Nagasaki Minato Festival

Miyajima Water Fireworks Festival One of Japan’s most recognized torii gates becomes even more stunning as fireworks can catch the JR ferry from the mainland to

The night view of one of Japan’s most picturesque harbors becomes even grander as 15,000 fireworks light up Nagasaki Seaside Park.

Explore the Izu Peninsula during this 10

This Extreme Series finale is a MTB, trekking

During the day, there are music performances and

to 15-kilometer “rogaining" challenge. It’s a

and Canadian canoeing race in Kawane Honcho

food stalls. When: July 27-28 Where: Nagasaki Seaside Park, Nagasaki

great entry level event for beginners as well as

famous for its pristine gorges and emerald waters.

seasoned adventurers. When: Aug. 11 Where: Hosono Highlands, Shizuoka www.a-extremo.com

The 35 to 45-kilometer race is recommended for

Beppu Fire Sea Festival After soaking in Beppu’s famous onsen, enjoy one of Kyushu’s largest fireworks displays. This annual festival features a yataimura (open-air street food village), art markets, dancing and local music at the oceanfront Beppu Station. When: Late July Where: Beppu Station, Oita Nagaoka Festival Enjoy watching portable shrines floating in the Shinano River, folk dancing, massive fireworks and traditional local cuisine including kanzuri (yuzu salt seasoning made with chili peppers), hegi soba (buckwheat noodles with a special type of seaweed) and sasa dango (Japanese rice cake with red bean paste and mugwort wrapped in bamboo leaves). When: Aug. 1-3 Where: Nagaoka, Niigata

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Niseko Autumn Food Festival

intermediate racers. When: Aug. 31 Where: Kawane Honcho, Shizuoka www.a-extremo.com

GUIDELINES

Summer Events and Music Nippon Domannaka Festival

MUSIC FESTIVALS

Tokyo Jazz Festival

Muro Festival

festival has grown to become one of Japan’s

The largest team dance festival in central Japan is held over two days in Nagoya, featuring 23,000 dancers from Japan and overseas. All dance teams are clad in local traditional costumes

Attracting world-famous jazz artists, this Discover local bands including Ajisai, Ban’s Encounter

and carry a naruko (small clapper). When: Late August Where: Hisaya Odori Park, Aichi

and Civilian while overlooking Odaiba’s harbor. When: July 20-21 Where: Odaiba Outdoor Special Venue, Tokyo www.murofes.com

Satoyama Run in Hida Takayama

Fuji Rock Festival

Satoyama refers to the area between

Japan’s most famous summer music festival

largest international festivals. The event is held at two venues in Tokyo. Check out the website for details. When: Aug. 30-31, Sept. 1 Where: Yoyogi Park and NHK Hall, Tokyo www.tokyo-jazz.com Sunset Live 2019 It may be September but you can still enjoy

mountain foothills and farmland. Immerse

brings world-class artists of all genres to the

yourself in the Japanese countryside and meet

mountains of Niigata. This year the lineup

summer vibes down in Kyushu! Kyushu’s most

locals, try authentic food and explore the real

includes Sia, The Cure, Jason Mraz, Death Cab for

popular outdoor festival is held next to the beach

Japan during these half and quarter marathons in

Cutie, Toro Y Moi, Jonas Blue and many more. When: July 26-28 Where: Naeba Ski Resort, Niigata www.fujirockfestival.com

with campgrounds and play areas for kids. When: Sept. 7-8 Where: Keya Itoshima, Fukuoka www.sunsetlive-info.com

Rock in Japan Festival

New Acoustic Camp

historic Hida Takayama. When: Sept. 7-8 Where: Hida Takayama, Gifu satoyama-run.com Niseko Autumn Food Festival Niseko’s eco-friendly autumn festival returns for its second year this September. Enjoy the season’s fresh and best produce at local Niseko restaurants, bars and cafes. When: Sept. 12-15 Where: Niseko, Hokkaido www.nisekotourism.com

Not one, but two, weekends of Rock in Japan

This acoustic-only music festival in Gunma’s

Festival, a popular rock and pop concert, will be

mountains is ideal for families, with plenty of

held at this breezy seaside park. When: Aug. 3-4 / Aug. 10-12 Where: Hitachi Seaside Park, Ibaraki www.rijfes.jp

crafts, outdoor workshops and kid-friendly activities. When: Sept. 14-15 Where: Minakami Kogen Resort 200, Gunma www.newacousticcamp.com

Rising Sun Rock Festival Camp out in the port city of Otaru for two

Asagiri Jam

days of non-stop music by local artists including

The organizers of Fuji Rock bring you this

Attractions, Overground Acoustic Underground,

laid-back alternative to the big show with two

30 signature Spartan obstacles and is the

The Bonez, Hea and more. There is also a wide

days of camping, rock, Indie and dance music by

most difficult event in the Spartan Series. The

selection of booths selling Hokkaido’s famous

international and local artists at the foot of Mt.

21-kilometer race will test your endurance,

local produce, delicious seafood and craft beer. When: Aug. 16-18 Where: Ishikari Bay New Port, Hokkaido http://rsr.wess.co.jp

Fuji. Workshops, morning yoga and activities for

Spartan Race Niigata Beast This beast of a race packs in more than

perseverance and mental toughness. A Sprint and Kids Race will also be held on the same day. When: Sept. 15 Where: Gala Yuzawa Snow Resort, Niigata www.spartanrace.jp

Summer Sonic The urban alternative to the Fuji Rock Festival

Sea to Summit

children are held around the two main stages. When: Oct. 12-13 Where: Asagiri Arena, Shizuoka www.asagirijam.jp

features some of the world’s top pop and rock

The Labyrinth Japan’s pre-eminent outdoor techno event

bands. This year’s international lineup includes

features a “DJ teepee” and an impressive sound

summer and autumn. Kayak, bike and hike from

Fall Out Boy, Weezer, Rita Ora, Zedd, The

and light system. Tickets are limited and go quick

the ocean to the top of a different mountain during

Chainsmokers and more. When: Aug. 16-18 Where: Makuhari Messe, Chiba and Maishima, Osaka www.summersonic.com

for this epic dance party in Niigata’s mountains. When: Oct. 12-14 Where: Naeba Greenland, Niigata www.mindgames.jp

Montbell’s outdoor series continues through

these fun events held throughout Japan. It’s a great way to explore local areas while getting outdoors. When and Where: June 15-16: Etajima, Hiroshima June 22-23: Okhotsk, Hokkaido July 20-21: Mt. Myoko/Lake Nojiri, Niigata Aug. 24-25: Daisetsu/Mt. Asahidake, Hokkaido Aug. 31-Sept. 1: Mt. Chokai, Yamagata Sept. 7-8: Seiyo, Ehime Sept. 21-22: Bizen, Okayama Oct. 5-6: Kamimachi, Miyagi Oct. 12-13: Kagamino, Okayama Oct. 26-27: Mt. Kosha/Chikuma River, Nagano Nov. 9-10: Kihoku, Mie en.montbell.jp

Spartan Race Japan

Summer 2019 | 7

BEER BUZZ

Kampai! In Kansai By Justin Stein

ansai has been long known for its excellent cuisine, from Kyoto’s refined kyō-ryori dishes to the famous wagyū beef of Kobe, Shiga, and Mie, to Osaka’s okonomiyaki and takoyaki. Nada (in Kobe) and Fushimi (in Kyoto) also have the country’s highest concentration of sake breweries, and these two districts produce nearly half of all of Japan’s sake. So, naturally, the region is also among the nation’s leaders in craft beer production. With the heat of summer upon us, thirsty Kansai residents and visitors alike can turn to an ever-increasing number of local breweries and beer bars for a cold glass of tasty alternatives to massproduced light lager. Kyoto Brewing’s beers are well suited for summer, as the brewer, Chris Hainge, primarily works with a Belgian yeast strain that tends to ferment dry, making their ales crisp and refreshing. Their Belgian wheat, Nagoriyuki (5%), is filled with delectable fruit flavors including lemon and banana, while Ichii Senshin (6.5%), a Belgian IPA that is one of their flagships, has a little more body but still goes down easily because its spicy yeast adds complexity to the pine and citrus American hops. The summer saison, Natsu no Kimagure, wasn’t on tap yet when I dropped by their taproom (open Saturdays and Sundays, with a fun beer garden that gets busy on sunny afternoons), but Chris said he would use lactic acid bacteria to give it a little tartness, which should help make it deliciously easy to drink. A little further south, Hainge’s friend Ai Tani has majorly impacted Osaka’s beer scene with her Craft Beer Base network of bars, bottle shops and, recently, original beers. Tani told me she started the original Base in late 2016 because some mainstays of the Osaka craft beer scene had closed and she wanted to create a new home for this culture. The original CBB is a small bar near Osaka Station with a few taps and an extensive cellar featuring hard-to-find bottles imported from Europe and the U.S. (for consumption on premises or takeaway). It has been successful enough that Tani has

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opened five new locations including Branch, a standing bar focused on her own beers and nitro coffee, Bud, a taproom in Osaka Station with a mix of Japanese and foreign beers, and Garden, a small brewery and taproom with a beer garden patio perfect for warm weather. So far, CBB’s house beers have focused on the American pale ale and IPA categories, but Tani says she is starting to work with Belgian yeast, with a witbier (Belgian white) in the works. Of course it’s not just new upstarts who have tasty beers to offer. Two of Kansai’s longest-running microbreweries have had some great new releases recently. Ise Kadoya (opened 1997) has heard the siren song of the Northeast IPA (known for haziness, intensely fruity aromas, and low bitterness) and is putting out delicious examples like Neko Ni Hiki (8%) and Refresh (6%), which burst with juicy hop flavors like orange and mango. Osaka-based Minoh Beer (also founded in 1997) has also been playing with combinations of Belgian yeasts and American hops. Their Blooming IPA (6%) is fruitier and more hop-forward than most of Kyoto Brewing’s offerings, with a softer mouthfeel, kind of like a hybrid between the Northeast IPA and Belgian IPA styles. If you find yourself in Kansai this summer, be sure to drink plenty of water (it’s hot!) but also don’t miss the tasty local beer selections.

FESTIVAL ROUNDUP May 29–June 2 – Keyaki Beer Festival (Saitama) June 7–17 – Hibiya Garden (Tokyo) June 27–July 7 – Belgian Beer Weekend (Tokyo) July 11–July 21 – Belgian Beer Weekend (Osaka) July 27–28 – Shizuoka Craft Beer & Whiskey Fair Aug. 23–25 – National Ji-Biiru Festival (Iwate) Aug. 23–Sept. 1 – Kyushu Beer Festival (Kumamoto) Aug. 30–Sept. 8 – Hibiya Garden 2 (Tokyo) Sept. 11–16 – Belgian Beer Weekend (Tokyo) Sept. 14–15 – Mikkeller Beer Celebration (Tokyo) Sept. 18–23 – Kyushu Beer Festival (Fukuoka) Sept. 28–29 – Craft Beer Kanazawa

MARKET WATCH

Up Market in Osaka By Joan Bailey

here wasn’t much to see in Ashiharabashi before Up Market set out its first tents six years ago. Former home to Osaka’s leather-making industry, the area had a taint that organizer Hiroyuki Kato wanted to lift. His company, Sarto, stepped in to help revitalize the area, and this monthly market is an integral part of that plan. Up Market is spread over three sections, each unique and full of an interesting mix of more than 100 artisans, farmers, bakers, craftsmen and women and food trucks. Musical performances are also regularly scheduled throughout the day to keep visitors and vendors entertained. The first section is located inside Salt Valley, a combination youth hostel and venue rental space. Here Ai Umakoshi of Guruli Farm in Wakayama can be found in her work boots and kimono with a selection of her seasonal organic vegetables and her unique baked goods. Ai takes great joy in creating sweet breads, tarts, and other treats from eggplant, daikon and bamboo shoots, and her regular customers know to come early for the best selection. Her vegetables, too, are some of the loveliest around. Down the hall and outside in an inner courtyard is Kanako Tanaka and her homemade bagels. Tanaka is quiet and unassuming, but the bagel-shaped earrings she wears give away the passion lurking inside. Vivid sandwiches using seasonal vegetables are her specialty, and Tanaka has perfected her recipe over the last three years. The bagels are just the right texture—flavorful and tender without being soft—and the sandwich filling flavorful yet not too saucy.

Around the corner from the courtyard and on the other side of the overhead train tracks stretches a line of artisan tables that include jewelry, handmade buttons and gorgeous embroidery. Crafty folks will be pleased to find the giant table of leather scrap pieces, a nod to the area's long history and the craftsmanship still underway in the neighborhood. The nearby parking lot is where the bulk of the action takes place. Keisuke Noda brings a selection of ceramic work from artists in Kansai. He opened his gallery about a year ago after having had enough of the salaryman lifestyle. His selection is well worth a look, and it will be very difficult to come away with only one piece. However, Naoki Yamadori and his traveling taproom may be the perfect justification for one of Noda’s lovely cups. Yamadori started Zigzag Brewery seven years ago in rural Sasayama, Hyogo Prefecture. Each month he is on hand with three of his beers for visitors to enjoy as they savor all the fun this market holds.

UP MARKET Nearest Station: Ashiharabashi Open: Third Sunday each month; 10:30 a.m. – 4 p.m. October-June; 4 p.m. – 9 p.m. July-September Web: http://reedjp.org/up

Summer 2019 | 9

CYCLING JAPAN

Kumano Kodo to Shionomisaki Cape By Takashi Niwa

umano Kodo is a series of ancient pilgrimage routes leading to Kumano Sanza, the three grand shrines in the Kumano Region—Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha. While most of the Kumano Kodo routes are foot paths, we can cycle some of the 1,000-year-old trails designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004. While our route will start and finish at Nanki Shirahama Airport—cycling a giant loop of about 200 kilometers—it’s recommended to stay the night at Shirahama Onsen before or after your ride and enjoy the relaxing hot springs if you have time. Start off by heading upstream along the Tomita River on Route 311. The road goes over Osaka Pass and eventually leads to Kumano Hongu Shrine. Yatagarasu (“a crow with three legs”) is the symbol of the shrine and is used in the emblem of the Japan Football Association. Nearby Kawayu Onsen—where hot spring water literally gushes out of the riverside—is one of the main attractions of the trip. Although Kumano is so often associated with the ocean, the area has some of the most beautiful rivers in Japan. Our route runs along the breathtakingly pristine water of the Kumano River as we head downstream toward the seaside town of Shingu. Kumano Hayatama Taisha, one of the three Grand Shrines, is located here. Next we continue south along the coastline looking out upon

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the Pacific Ocean to your left. From JR Nachi Station, we climb 300 meters from sea level—via Nachi-no-taki (Nachi Falls)—to Nachi Kumano Taisha.

Hongu

Kumanohongu Shrine

Mt. Nachi

Shingu

Shirahama WAKAYAMA PREFECTURE

Nachi Falls

Kushimoto

If you are an experienced map reader, go over the hill here and visit Kuchiirokawa Village, then descend along the sparkling Oota River. Do note, there is no convenience store or other places to get food or drinks along the way so make sure you bring your own. Once you return to the ocean, continue south on the national highway toward Shionomisaki Cape, the southernmost tip of Honshu Island. You can then take a train from Kushimoto Station (on the JR Kisei Line) back to Shirahama or, if you are feeling up for it, get back in the saddle and do the remaining 60 kilometers by bike.

Nachikatsuura

Summer 2019 | 11

JAPAN ECO TRACK

Miyagi-Kennan Hamakaido Get off the beaten track and explore rural Japan

n 2011 the largest earthquake in Japan’s recorded history—known as the Great East Japan Earthquake— destroyed much of the coastal Tohoku Region. The area has been rebuilding since and local business have been revitalized as travelers return to this beautiful part of the country. The Miyagi-Kennan Hamakaido Road, in southern Miyagi Prefecture, connects the cities of Natori and Iwanuma, as well as Watari and Yamamoto towns. Travelers can start their hike or cycling from Sendai Airport and take in the coastal views while enjoying some of Japan's finest seafood.

HIKE The most popular route, the Michinoku Coastal Trail, is the best way to experience the reinvigorated coastal towns, mingle with locals and sample the local fare—after all, this region boasts the world's third largest fishing grounds. “Michinoku” is the ancient name of the Tohoku area. The trail follows the Pacific coast from Hachinohe in Aomori Prefecture to Soma in Fukushima Prefecture. Part of it runs through Miyagi, where you can navigate ancient roads, follow the Sanriku Beach Highway, which flourished as a trade route, and hike along the peninsula with the nation's largest rias coastline. Further inland is the Shiga Kogen, Mt. Sotoyama and Mt. Goshazan Trail, designated as Miyagi's nature conservation area and a green-region environmental preservation area. It only requires four to five hours scaling three small peaks (Mt. Sanpozuka, Mt. Sotoyama and Mt. Goshazan), all within the 300-meter range. Keep an eye out for the wide and rare variety of flowers here like the katakuri lilies and kuzu arrowroot plant. The Watari Mountains Trail near the castle town of Watari starts at Wariyama Pass near Daioji Temple (founded in 1604). Continue on to Mt. Kuromori, Mt. Shihozan and Mt. Shinzan for panoramic views stretching from the Pacific Ocean to the mountains around Zao. The trail takes five hours excluding stops at the nearby Watari Local History Museum and Yamamoto Town Museum of History and Folklore. BIKE The Miyagi-Kennan Hamakaido Cycling Route spans nearly 115 kilometers, starting at Sendai Airport in Natori City. You'll head north as you follow the Teizan Canal, the longest canal in Japan. Named after Teizan Ko, the posthumous Buddhist name of famous daimyo Date Masamune, the canal flows from Iwanuma City at the estuary of the Abukuma River at Sendai Bay along the cities of Natori, Sendai, Tagajo, Shichigahama and Shiogama. Your first stop is the Great East Japan Earthquake Memorial Monument in Yuriage. Memorials on both sides contain an inscription as well as the names

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of the 944 people who lost their lives in the tsunami. Yuriage flourished as a port city during the Edo Period under the ruling Sendai Clan and was home to 5,500 people before the earthquake. Reconstruction of homes and industrial areas continue today and you can really feel the power of rebuilding a community. You'll then cycle inland and start making your way south. This shrinehopping route passes by three Natori Kumano Shrines including Kumano Hongusha Shrine, Kumano-jinja Shrine and Kumano Nachi-jinja Shrine. The location and positioning of the three shrines resembles the famous three Kumano Shrines in Wakayama closely—which is unlike anywhere else in the nation.

As you approach Abukuma River, you'll find the famous Takekuma no Matsu trees. The two oddly shaped pine trees are actually joined at the root and appear in the famous Tale of Genji. The haiku poet Matsuo Basho described it in his famous novel “Oku no Hosomichi.” Despite difficult times through the ages, the tree remains resilient and has been planted here for generations. The route continues south into Watari Town where you'll find the hiking routes mentioned earlier, and loops back upward at Sakamoto Station, going north along the coast. The former Nakahama Elementary School near the station is a grim reminder of the power of the 2011 disaster. Located about 400 meters from the shoreline, the school was directly hit by the tsunami with waves reaching the second story of the building. The principal of the school evacuated people to a shed on the roof, saving at least 90 lives. Access is still prohibited, but the school is scheduled to reopen in 2020.

On your ride back up, taste the local cuisine including harako-meshi (fatty salmon placed on rice in salmon broth and topped with ikura roe), hokki-meshi (surf clams on rice, usually in season from December to April), akagai (ark shell, which Yuriage Port is famous for) and whitebait. There's more than seafood too. Natori City is a major producer of seri (Japanese parsley) which is available from September to March and best served steamed in a hot pot. Ramen shops also compete for the most unique taste in Iwanuma City—so much so that Iwanuma is called a "ramen battlefield." If you don't want to cycle the entire loop, this route can be broken down into shorter 30-kilometer routes: Kumano Sanja and Basho Route, Natori Route and Iwanuma Cycling Route (all within Natori City in the north). You can also end your journey at Sakamoto Station. For more information on this Japan Eco Track area visit www. japanecotrack.net/menu156/ contents873. 

Back in 2009, Montbell —Japan’s largest homegrown outdoor brand—started a series of events called Sea to Summit. The goal was to help invigorate local areas holding events to experienced the local nature and landscape through canoeing, cycling, trekking and other means of human-powered movement. While these events continue be held in beautiful areas around Japan, the next natural progression was to provide information and guides so travelers could experience these areas throughout the year, at their pace and schedule while learning about the history and culture of the region and interacting with locals. Japan Eco Track guides now cover more than 15 areas, and English versions of the guides are increasing as well so international travelers can follow maps with designated routes of varying difficulty levels. Each guide includes information on local businesses such as restaurants, local guides, tour operations and other attractions. Discounts and special offers are available at participating location when travelers show the Japan Eco Track map booklet. For more information, visit www.japanecotrack.net.

Summer 2019 | 13

SHIZUOK A ROAD TRIP

THE MT. FUJI LOOP Mt. Fuji

Fuji Speedway

Sky Asagiri Paragliding Fuji Trout Farm

Gotemba

Sun & Moon Hitsuki Club Fuji Bungy

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s green season shifts into high gear there’s no better time to hit the road and explore Japan. If you are in the Kanto area and looking for the perfect road trip with friends, the Fuji Loop is tough to beat. This adventure-packed route is within easy striking distance from Tokyo and can be done over a couple days if you are short on time but want to pack a lot of fun into the weekend. As the name suggests, this route circumnavigates Mt. Fuji, so with a little luck you’ll get stellar views of the mountain no matter where you are on the road. Many people climb the iconic mountain in summer, but there are plenty of other activities to enjoy in the area.

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Shin-Fuji Station

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Beat the Rush Instead of battling traffic in Tokyo, jump on the bullet train and shoot straight out to Shin Fuji Station in just over an hour from Tokyo Station on the Tokaido Shinkansen. From here rent a car from one of the many car rental shops around the station— Times, Nissan and Orix are all within walking distance from the station.

SHIZUOKA PREFECTURE

Bird’s Eye View of Fuji Drive northwest towards Mt. Fuji and the Asagiri Highlands and stop by Sky Asagiri Paragliding. The paragliding courses are great for first timers, including a solo Challenge Course (solo paragliding) and the Tandem Course, where you launch from 300 meters. Both are half-day courses costing ¥10,000 per person (¥8,000 in winter). One of the instructors, Keiko Hiraki, is a twotime world champion in the women’s division of the Paragliding World Cup. Sky Asagiri Paragliding 499 Fumoto, Fujinomiya-shi, Shizuoka-ken 418-0109 www.skyasa.com Go Fish Mt. Fuji is blessed with clear, fresh spring water, providing fertile grounds for local fish. Fuji Trout Farm raises nijimasu (rainbow trout) in these waters and guests can stroll the grounds while learning about rainbow trout, then fish for lunch (the staff will even clean the fish for you) and barbecue at the on-site barbecue areas. Fuji Trout Farm 579-2 Inokashira, Fujinomiya-shi, Shizuoka-ken 418-0108 (0544) 52-0311 Sunrise Yoga After a full day, check in for the night at the Sun & Moon Hitsuki Club where you can either pitch your tent or stay in one of their comfortable glamping tents, domes or cabins. If you don’t feel like barbecuing you can enjoy a dinner at the club featuring local ingredients. Wake up to a spectacular view of Mt. Fuji from the deck where you can join sunrise yoga to start your day feeling great. Breakfast option is available as well. A ten-minute drive away from Sun & Moon Hitsuki Club is Lake Tanuki, an artificial lake popular

for boating, fishing, cycling and camping. Photographers can get an unobstructed view of “Diamond Fuji”—when the sun perfectly aligns over Mt. Fuji’s peak creating a diamond-like effect. This phenomenon happens one week around April and August 20 at 5 to 6 a.m. Sun & Moon Hitsuki Club 2271 Inokashira, Fujinomiya-shi, Shizuoka-ken 418-0108 www.hitsuki-club.com Fuji Speedway After a relaxing morning, get revved up for Fuji Speedway—one of Japan’s top motorsport racetracks. Built in the 1960s, Fuji Speedway has a long history of hosting world races including the FIA World Endurance Championship, Super GT and Super Formula, and the view of Mt. Fuji makes it a special place to race. The nearby Fuji Speedway Kart Circuit is a replica of the speedway where you can get a few laps in for only ¥1,500. You can also go tandem karting for ¥2,000. Fuji Speedway 694 Nakahinata, Oyama-cho, Suntogun, Shizuoka-ken 410-1307 www.fsw.tv

Free Falling Just when you thought your adrenaline was pumping—take it to another level at Fuji Bungy. Towering 54 meters over the Suzu Valley and Oodana Waterfall on one side and overlooking Fuji City on the other, Fuji Bungy is an unforgettable place to take a leap of faith and one of Bungy Japan’s newest locations. Professional English-speaking staff are available. Fuji Bungy Oodana Waterfall, Hina, Fuji-shi, Shizuoka-ken 417-0847 www.bungyjapan.com 

For more travel tips and destinations while road tripping around Shizuoka, visit www.exploreshizuoka.com.

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JAPAN'S TOP 10 DIVES By Tim Rock and Noriyuki Otani

The many islands and coastlines that make up Japan are home to the greatest diversity of large and small life forms on the planet. Deciding between diving into the blue with bottlenose dolphins or drifting across a fantasyland reefscape inhabited by millions of fish resplendent in all the colors of the universe is no easy task. There are countless great scuba diving sites, but the impossible mission we have undertaken is choosing just ten to be your gateway for exploring Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s underwater world.

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apan consists of 6,852 islands including the four main islands—Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu. Japan and the ocean have always been one. Ama, professional female divers, have been Japan’s most famous divers since recorded history. Another pioneer was Watanabe Riichi. In 1918 he developed, manufactured and actually dove in his fully operational scuba unit almost 25 years prior to Cousteau’s. Giant squid were first filmed off Ogasawara and Japanese cuisine features some of the finest seafood on the planet. 2. 1.

Ogasawara (Tokyo) The Bonin Islands, better known in Japan as the Ogasawara Islands, are a refuge for marine and bird wildlife. They are sometimes referred to as “The Galapagos of Japan,” where you can observe humpback whales, spinner dolphins, bottlenose dolphins, sperm whales and occasionally spotted dolphins, short-finned pilot whales, whale sharks and other pelagics. But squid, ragged-tooth sharks, sea turtles and amazing reef and rock formations make this place special. In 2011 the Ogasawara Islands were added to UNESCO's World Heritage List. Many places in the world do not allow dolphin and human interaction. But here, all-day dolphin watching and swimming tours with bottlenose and spinner dolphin pods are offered and can even be done in between dives. Dolphin snorkeling is a real adrenaline pumper. You hang off the back dive step of the boat and get up ahead of the pod. You are given the go sign and snorkel toward the pod, hoping they will want to slow down and play or interact with you. Bottlenose are more likely to be approached than the spinners. They can even be seen on scuba, whereas the spinners don’t seem to like divers as much. Even when dolphins move slowly, they are still moving at a pretty good clip. Kicking quickly, you can see odd barnacles on some of the bottlenose dolphins’ tails and remoras attached to their sides. Whale watching is also popular here.

Chiba’s Shark City (Chiba) Tateyama-Ito is a quaint Japanese fishing town with one special attraction: Shark City. Though it is near Tokyo, the big city has no sway here. Ito is open to the sea and has become known as a spot where divers can enjoy sharks safely. It’s just a five-minute boat road from the port to the famous dive site where rocky reefs and terrain set the stage for shark tornadoes and dancing stingrays. The site, which has been around less than a decade, is the work of the man who has the diving permits for the signature dives in this area— the shark dive and the molamola dive. Mr. Shiota of dive shop Bommie thought he could create a dive by luring sharks away from the fishing ground using bait. In the beginning, even though many sharks gathered at the bait, they would disappear as divers approached. By repeating the feed many times and with divers present they finally got used to divers and liked being fed. The new, exciting shark and stingray dive was born.

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Mikurajima (Tokyo)

Osezaki (Shizuoka) You know you’re in Japan when you can dive with a view of Mt.Fuji. A mere two-hour drive from Tokyo brings you to Osezaki, the slender cape at Suruga Bay on the northwest end of the Izu Peninsula. The cape plays the role of a breakwater, so the inside of the bay is calm throughout the year. According to a survey by the Kanagawa Prefectural Natural History Museum, more than 600 fish species have been confirmed here. Suruga Bay is the deepest bay in Japan plunging to 2500 meters. Divers sometimes see deepwater fish in the shallows near Osezaki. The biology of the area is fascinating. Here the ocean floor is sandy and great for small and odd critters. Look for lefteye flounders and stingrays which gaze up from the bottom. If they see a diver, they may scurry away in a cloud. Look also for frogfish in various sizes and colors—white, yellow, orange, black—using lures on their noses to attract their next meal. 3.

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Mikurajima rises from the ocean like a beacon for dolphins. The terrain is best described as vertical, making one wonder how the first people even landed here. Rugged as they come yet beautifully forested, Mikurajima is a small, yet spectacular, piece of Tokyo real estate known for its deep forest and huge, ancient trees—and, of course, dolphins. Dolphin lovers come to Mikura to see the large group of bottlenose dolphins. This place is rich in sea life and the dolphins thrive here, finding an abundance of food in the deep waters just off the island, while the steep cliffs offer shelter from inclement weather. As the ship arrives countless sea birds steal fish from the water. The Dolphin Communication Project is a wonderful group that tracks the two-hundred plus dolphins that live around the island. Boats go out three to four times daily. The dolphins appear well fed and there are beautiful beds of swaying seagrasses that are mesmerizing. They don’t always stop to play so you may need to do a few drops, but when they do, it is magical.

Owase (Mie)

Owase is a little fishing town located in the southern part of the Kii Peninsula, about 200 kilometers from Osaka and 500 kilometers from Tokyo. Thanks to the Kuroshio Current, which runs near the coast, Owase enjoys a warm climate throughout the year. Just an eight-minute boat ride from the harbor, Gyosho is probably the most popular dive site in the area. It is an artificial reef set up to lure large migratory fish. A lot of concrete blocks have been placed on a sandy bottom and soft corals have taken hold, making the reef popular with fish and macro life. Small creatures including nudibranchs, seahorses, frogfish, anemone shrimps and so on, all inhabit this spot. The mid-structure also has cardinal fish, horse mackerel and lyretail anthias. Large painted sweetlips, filefish, lion fish and, in winter, the John Dory Fish make a showing. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great spot for wide angle and macro if the diver is shooting stills or video.

Kajika (Mie) Another small fishing village called Kajika is just a 30-minute drive from Owase. The Kajika Diving Service is managed by the affable Mr. Nakamura. This area is surrounded by peninsulas and islands, so the ocean is usually protected and calm throughout the year. Visibility is good as there is no river in the area. There are six sites in the U-shaped bay. Each one is within five minutes by boat from the little harbor. Although the landscape above isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t too exciting, the seascape is rich and varied. On the shallow rock shelves, communities of sea anemones spread like flower gardens. On the sandy seabed, big and mid-sized fish like Japanese bullhead sharks and stingrays rest on the sea floor. Even though Kajika is just south of Gyosho and Obana Point, there are even more tropical creatures and corals here due to the warm current. It is heaven for macro subjects like nudibranchs, shrimps and crabs and a must-stop for divers when in this part of Japan. 6.

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Madea Blue Cave and Reef (Okinawa)

Sunabe Sea Wall (Okinawa) Sunabe is a popular area on the main Okinawa island. A residential community full of dive shops, tank rentals and filling stops, restaurants, izakayas and small hotels line the shoreline. It is one of three districts of Chatan, a trendy town of about 26,000 people an hour or less (depending on traffic) from downtown Naha. In general, currents around the sea wall are mild, with many of the dive sights in the area accessible when conditions at other popular sites are not so favorable. Site names along the wall include Junkyard, Seaside Palace, and Curry House. Over the reef there is a slope that leads to finger reefs and coral areas with soft coral gardens. Look for cuttlefish, shrimps and squids. Molluscs like Triton’s trumpets, cowries and murexes are all commonly seen. Pretty much any point along the seawall is open for exploration. Diving is generally shallow and every dive is different and produces varied marine life. 8.

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You can’t say you have dived or snorkeled Okinawa unless you’ve been to Maeda Point. This is where planeloads come every weekend to do all kinds of diving, instruction and snorkeling. It is so popular, there’s a gated pay parking lot and a massive food and change facility on the grounds with a nice sheltered overlook of the entire bay. Entry is easy with a wide set of stairs leading down the cliff line to the ocean. In late June and July, there are beautiful silver swirls and clouds of sardines and other baitfish attracting predators and even dive-bombing sea birds. Look for moray eels, sea snakes, sea anemones with their clownfish, lionfish, shoals of squid and large batfish schools. Save some energy for the exit and the climb back up the stairs. 7.

Manta Scramble (Okinawa) Ishigaki isn’t a heavily populated island (about 50,000 residents) and locals are friendly. The island life vibe is palpable in the small pubs, eateries and shops that line many streets in Ishigaki City, while kids play baseball or ride their bikes around town. The famous Okinawa folk singer Rimi Natsukawa hails from here—best-known for the song, “Nada Soso" ("Large Tears are Falling”). This hilly and lush island is great for cycling, sea kayaking, SUP, kitesurfing and other “sun and fun” sports on land and in the water. Manta Scramble has lots of high rise coral heads separated by deep valleys. While the cleaning stations that attract the mantas are located largely on the tops of these big coral structures, the deep valleys in between let divers move slowly from one cleaning station to another as the mantas move around. This dive is aptly named as it is a bit of an undersea scramble to get to a site and settle in so the manta isn’t disturbed. The area also has quite a few sea anemones and fish, but divers come to view the beautiful, graceful mantas. There is a bit of an open valley that leads to another shallower adjacent site called Manta Point, not to be confused with Iriomote’s Manta Point. 10.

10.

Yonaguni (Okinawa) Yonaguni is a majestic little outcrop. The charming island is home to just three small villages and features a rocky, rugged coastline that looks like something out of Jurassic Park. Cape Irizaki, the western tip of the island, is the westernmost point of Japan. It’s not the earth’s end, but you can see Taiwan on a clear day. Kaitei Iseki is the famous underwater monument found by Kihachiro Aratake. If the monument is indeed manmade or modified by man, that would date it back to the last Ice Age (around 10,000 B.C.) when the sea level was 40 meters lower than it is now and Yongunijima was part of a land bridge connecting Japan, Taiwan and the Chinese mainland. This would make the monument the oldest man-made artifact on Earth, significantly pre-dating the pyramids in Egypt. One can see why this has sparked quite a bit of interest and debate. The always friendly Aratake-san, who discovered the mysterious underwater monument off the coast of Yonagunijima in 1986, is also the founder of Sou-Wes Dive Center. He was scouting the seas around the island for new hammerhead shark-watching points and there it was, something that resembled one of Japan’s ancient temples or forts—but more weathered and primitive. Look for hammerhead schools, sea turtles and lots of fish at this special place.

Practicalities

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Getting there: Most international travelers arrive to Japan via Narita (outside Tokyo), Haneda (in Tokyo), Kansai (outside Osaka) or Chubu Centrair (outside Nagoya) international airports. Japan has a great railway system although some areas may be easier to access by rental car so be sure to bring your international driver’s license. Accommodation: Japan’s world-class diving has placed many areas on divers' radar and tourism infrastructure in Japan is booming. Numerous dive shops offer package deals that include accommodation and meals. Liveaboard diving has not really caught on in Japan for a number of reasons but most coastal towns and islands will have dive businesses that work with local accommodation. 

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NOW AVAILABLE:

THE 50 BEST DIVES IN JAPAN

Long-time Outdoor Japan contributor Tim Rock and co-author Noriyuki Otani recently published “The 50 Best Dives in Japan.” This is the first comprehensive look at Japan’s amazing underwater eco-system from north to south, from borderline arctic dives to tropical waters. This new book covers all the major diving areas and beautiful islands and coasts (and even a mountain and ice dive), identifying the key spots in each place (plus some great snorkeling) to add to your scuba bucket list.

Read about little-known outlying islands, shark-filled sites a stone's throw from the big city, tropical beaches with snow-white sand, whale-filled waters and sea turtles galore. Both authors have decades of dive experience in Japan and worldwide, and have been supported by by other Japan-based photographers and contributors to create this 216-page book with countless images and maps, site and regional descriptions, practical information and much more. The essential book for diving in Japan is now available in paperback and e-book versions via Amazon, iTunes and Blurb. Amazon Japan: www.amazon.co.jp/ dp/1090371535 Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/ product/B07PRJT8PG Apple: https://itunes.apple.com/us/ book/id1456060024 Blurb: www.blurb.com/b/9348757the-50-best-dives-in-japan

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ABOUT THE AUTHORS: Lonely Planet author and photojournalist Tim Rock pioneered diving and snorkeling guides for the islands of Micronesia and Indonesia— and now Japan. The Guam-based writer and photographer has helped open up islands to divers around the world. Tim has been a frequent visitor to Japan over several decades, and is a contributor to Outdoor Japan, Far East Travel Plan, Marine Diving and many others. Noriyuki Otani lives in the south of Japan and is an avid diver, photographer and traveler. From his home in Owase, Mie, Japan, he has developed a knack for macro subjects and knows Japan’s east coast well. Otani-san travels frequently to other dive sites in Japan, Micronesia and the Philippines. He is a knowledgeable observer of marine life using Nikon, Sea&Sea and Ikelite equipment and also flies DJI drones.

CONQUER ING THE KITA ALPS R IDGES By Tom Fay

Grappling with a slightly rusty chain bolted into the hard, cold rock, I heave myself up onto the relative safety of a flat ledge. The respite provides a chance to take in the stunning mountain views spread out before me. Having started out the morning in the green, beautiful valley below, I was now close to 3,000 meters, looking ahead to a full afternoon of scrambling and clambering along the precipitous ridge towards a hut that promised the comfort of a warm futon and piping hot food.

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n days like these, when the sun shines and the rock is dry and firm underfoot, exploring the many high, challenging ridges of the Japan Alps is pure joy. It’s a heady mix of eye-popping views and muscle-straining exhaustion—with the smattering of mild terror and adrenaline-fueled highs during knife-edge ridgeline traverses. Also known as the Japanese Alps, these mountains lie in the center of Honshu and are divided into three main ranges: the North (Kita), Central (Chuo) and South (Minami) Alps. They are home to the highest peaks in the country, twenty of which reach over 3,000 meters. Only Mt. Fuji reaches higher. For those with a penchant for thrilling rock scrambles and challenging ridge walks, the North Alps (traditionally known as the Hida Mountains) is undoubtedly the place to be. A roughly Y-shaped band of rugged mountains stretching 100 kilometers south from the Sea of Japan coast, this range has volcanic origins with a number of currently active volcanoes and plenty of hot springs thanks to all the geothermal activity. The northern end of the range is subject to freezing Siberian weather fronts during the long cold winters and so is home to some of the best ski resorts in the country. Yet, it is the rocky mountain trails that attract hikers throughout the summer and fall.

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HAKUBA Hakuba is a resort village at the northern end of the Kita Alps. Just west of it lies Mt. Shirouma, one of Japan’s hyakumeizan (100 famous mountains). Its year-round snow fields and abundance of wild alpine flowers make it a popular hiking destination in the summer, and the main ridge leading south crosses over Mt. Karamatsu and then climbs up to the summit of Mt. Goryu for a fine multi-day ridge walk. There are a number of ropeways and trails leading up from the Hakuba side, with a variety of ways to approach and escape the ridge. The stretch heading even further south between Mt. Goryu and Mt. Kashimayari is where things start to get really interesting and requires scrambling skills on a path that barely clings to the mountainside. Halfway along this section is the Kiretto-goya, a cozy mountain hut located in a truly amazing (and slightly terrifying) spot—delicately perched on a narrow saddle with nearly vertical drops on either side. There is no space for camping, but the hut offers welcome relief from the challenges of the ridge.

TSURUGI-DAKE In clear weather, hikers will notice a dark and jagged pyramid-shaped mountain looming ominously across the valley to the west. This is Tsurugi-dake, the last mountain in Japan to be officially climbed and often regarded as the most difficult. It offers numerous challenges to experienced mountaineers, but even the standard route, which approaches from Murodō and then up the Bessanone ridge, is one of the most thrilling climbs in the entire Alps. Hikers must grapple with multiple fixed chains and huge drops, so sure footing and a head for heights are a must. The most notorious section is known as the Kani-no-tatebai and involves a vertical

climb up the cliff face with only a few metal bolts to grab on to, but this is only one part of a demanding four-tofive-hour climb (up and down) from the starting point at Kenzan-sō Hut. Tsurugi-dake can also be combined with a traverse of the nearby Tateyama ridgeline for a demanding but spectacular threeday trek. Tateyama is one of Japan’s three sacred mountains, and while crowds of people make the short climb up from Murodō to Oyama (one of its three main summits), far fewer continue all the way along the ridge to the summits of Ōnanji-yama (the highest summit) and Fuji-no-oritate. The Tateyama massif is an impressive jumble of rock, with one of Japan’s

only remaining glaciers hidden on its eastern flank (the others are to be found on Tsurugi-dake), and while the ridge walk is not particularly difficult it offers splendid views and plenty of easy scrambling and boulder-hopping. Heading north towards Mt. Matsugo, the drop down from the summit plateau passes Kuranosuke Cirque, a spectacular spot where ancient snow lingers throughout the year. The trail continues on to Mt. Bessan, from where hikers can either continue on towards Mt. Tsurugi, or loop back to Murodō via the huts and campground at Raichōsawa.

DAIKIRETTO AND YARIGATAKE Arguably the most famous of all the ridges in the Japan Alps is the Daikiretto, a heart-stopping section of ridge connecting Mt. Yarigatake and Mt. Hotaka-dake, two of the Kita Alps’ most iconic mountains. Translating to “big cut,” the Daikiretto is a gaping gap in the ridgeline, which, from either the north or south approach, involves awkward downclimbing and a traverse across a mostly knifeedged spine of ridge, followed by a steep climb up the other side. To the north of the Daikiretto, Minami-dake features staggering views of the Hotaka massif and a comfortable hut and campground

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nearby. A path follows the ridgeline further north crossing rocky but humpbacked peaks to reach Yarigatake in around three hours. This is one of the four main ridges leading directly to the summit of Yarigatake—each route offers a vastly different kind of approach. The Nishikama Ridge, on Yarigatake’s west side is narrow and high, with fantastic views of the peak’s towering spire summit along the entire route. The Higashikama Ridge, on Yari’s eastern flank, is a well-trodden trail that forms part of the Omote Ginza route leading all the way to the ever-popular Mt. Tsubakuro. Despite its popularity, there are plenty of fixed ladders and scrambling sections to contend with so don’t underestimate it. The infamous Kitakama Ridge, leading up the north face of Yarigatake directly onto the summit, is by far the most challenging and remote approach and has claimed a number of lives over the years including a number of well-known Japanese alpinists. It is mostly a rock scramble, but route finding and lack of water can be problematic—many people opt to take rope. The other three ridges lead to Yarigatake Sansō,

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the hut directly below Yarigatake’s summit, and all three have trails which are well marked and straightforward for adventurous hikers. HOTAKA-DAKE To the south of Yarigatake and the Daikiretto is Hotaka-dake, a chaotic massif of jagged rocky turrets with a high point of 3,190 meters on the main summit of Okuhotakadake, making it the highest peak in the North Alps (and third highest in Japan). The ridgeline between the peaks of Kita-Hotaka and OkuHotaka takes around three hours to traverse and involves some of the most exciting scrambling and easy rock climbing in the Alps. There are plenty of chains and paint marks to make things easier, but this is not a route for the faint hearted as it is an unrelenting scramble up and around awkward shards of rock—it is full of steep climbs and even steeper, dizzying drops. Hotaka-dake Sansō is another one of those huts built in a seemingly impossible position on a narrow ledge below Oku-Hotaka, and offers comfort and respite from the challenges of the ridge.

Leading southwest from Mt. Hotaka’s main summit is the notorious Nishi-Hotaka Ridge, an epic ridgeline of crumbling rock towers, countless minor peaks and the sharpest knife-edge ridges in the Kita Alps. It poses countless interesting challenges for experienced scramblers, including a climb up to the top of the unmistakable Gendarme, a fin-like protrusion of rock with sheer drops on either side. Most people start early from Nishiho Sansō Hut (open all year) and work their way along the ridge for the eight or nine hours it takes to traverse across to Oku-Hotaka and Hotakadake Sansō. It is an extremely long and committing route, only for those with excellent fitness and lots of scrambling experience, but if you like excitement and have a good head for heights it is arguably the most thrilling and enjoyable of all the “regular” ridge routes in the Japan Alps. 

NOW AVAILABLE Tom Fay and Wes Lang recently published “Hiking and Trekking in the Japan Alps and Mount Fuji,” the first English-language guidebook dedicated to the Japan Alps and Mt. Fuji areas. The essential guide provides comprehensive coverage of the Northern, Central and Southern Alps, plus all four trails on Mt. Fuji and another route on nearby Mt. Kurodake. The book includes: • 27 walks and treks for hikers of all abilities, including straightforward day hikes, challenging scrambles and multi-day treks • Full color photos and maps with elevation profiles • Detailed information on mountain huts, camping, access, when to go and transport options • All routes graded by difficulty, length, terrain and exposure • Practical advice on gear, travel, accommodation, food, wildlife and much more • Extensive appendices include route stats, mountain hut listings, Japanese glossary, useful resources and further reading Tom Fay is a British travel and outdoors writer living in Osaka and the main author of “Hiking and Trekking in the Japan Alps and Mount Fuji”. He has hiked and climbed extensively around the world, and has a special interest in the mountains of the U.K., Iceland, the Himalayas and Japan. He is a member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild. Wes Lang is the founder of Hiking in Japan, a website providing hiking information for mountains across Japan. He was the first American to climb the Nihon Hyakumeizan (Japan’s 100 Famous Mountains) and the first foreigner to climb the Kansai Hyakumeizan (Kansai’s 100 Famous Mountains).

Available now in paperback (400 pages, waterproof gloss-laminated cover) and eBook format through Cicerone Press. www.cicerone.co.uk

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THE OR IGINAL

MOUNTAIN MAR ATHON By Rie Miyoshi

It’s been almost seven hours of running in the mountains. The sun is setting, it’s freezing and you’re off trail with only your running partner and the bare essentials in your backpack. While this may sound like a dire situation, this is a typical scenario during the annual Original Mountain Marathon (OMM), one of the oldest adventure races in the world.

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ear fanatics might recognize OMM for producing some of the finest ultralight clothing and backpacks out there. But what makes this brand unique is that it’s not the gear that came first, but the race. Every item OMM produces is designed specificallyto withstand this arduous competition. Back in 1968, a group of British adventurers led by mountaineer Gerry Charnley designed the Karrimor International Mountain Marathon, a navigational mountain race. Using Karrimor gear, they headed out into unforgiving terrain to test themselves and their gear against the U.K.’s notorious wet weather and strong winds. The race would be held in a different location in the U.K. every year with a sparse completion rate (just 30%). When asked if the race was too difficult, Charnley responded, “Everybody knows this is the KIMM, the toughest event on the calendar and it's not a Sunday afternoon picnic.” Over time, the race became known as the Original Mountain Marathon, still keeping up its harsh rules in an even harsher environment. In fact, the Japan edition of the OMM is held in November, when snow is already falling in the mountains. The reason? To make it harder for the runners. The race challenges runners physically and mentally as participants must use selfreliance, quick route selection, kit management, knowledge of their team skills, endurance, teamwork and sound mountain judgment.

you are given a map with a set number of checkpoints—or controls—which you must reach over a certain period of time. Line course teams opt for the Elite A or B course, with the Elite course reaching up to 47 kilometers at 2,200 meters altitude in just one day. The Score Course is a points-based rogaining system. The team that collects the most points across the two days wins. There’s a Long, Medium and Short Score Course, with the Long

THE RULES The two-day race only allows teams of two. Runners can choose from the Line or Score course. The Line Course is a time trial where

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Score Course going for seven hours on Day One and six hours on Day Two. Although this means you’ll technically “finish” the race without running out of time and getting disqualified, this requires strategy to decide your route and which controls you want to reach for the most points. Because the maps are given out at the starting point on the first day of the race, there’s really no way to train except to study the area and terrain and know how to translate maps into trails that fit you and your team’s skill level. The pink areas marked on the maps are out of bounds, whether its for safety issues or lack of permission to use the area. At night, all teams must reconvene at the overnight camp, usually up in the mountains and hours away from the starting point. Teams are not allowed to help one another; if someone asks the staff for help or even medical assistance, they are immediately disqualified. THE JAPAN RACE It’s a warm March afternoon at The Warehouse, a renovated storage house surrounded by rice paddies and cabbage fields in Saitama Prefecture, just north of Tokyo. Chill house music plays in the background while Hideyuki Komine scales the bouldering wall making up half of this space. Jeff

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Jensen sits in the lounge area planning for the upcoming OMM events in Japan. What was initially supposed to be a warehouse for OMM Japan’s race gear and events became a side project for bouldering and outdoor enthusiasts who wanted someplace to live out their nomadic work life. In 2012, Canada native Jeff Jensen ran a bouldering gym in Saitama where mountaineer Hideyuki Komine and self-proclaimed “gear fanatic” Takashi Chiyoda were regular customers. Eventually, the three quit their jobs to start Nomadics, importing the world’s top ultralight outdoor gear into Japan. One of the brands they sought out was OMM, and if they were going to sell OMM gear in Japan, they wanted to bring the race here too. Jensen and Komine flew to South Wales in 2013 to challenge themselves to their first-ever OMM race. While they were prepared physically— Komine is an avid trail runner and Jensen scales Mt. Fuji on snow and ice every year on New Year’s Day—they were no match for OMM. Impressed by how extreme it was, they brought

the race to Higashi Izu the following year. Using their personal networks as well as their connections through Nomadics, they attracted 450 people participants. They also led a series of backcountry navigation workshops to prepare curious enthusiasts for the first race of its kind in Japan. More than half of the inaugural participants were trail runners—but only a quarter finished. They learned quickly OMM is not a trail run. “Japan’s trail and mountain infrastructure is crazy good and is one of the best in the world. Canada is much wilder. We can’t go hut to hut if we’re in the mountains; we have to pitch a tent,” says Jensen, who grew up in the Banff region. “For OMM, it’s not just running skills, it’s mountain

skills and navigation. It might snow while you’re up there. You have to be able to pitch a tent in the snow and have enough clothing so you don’t freeze. Two years ago when we held the race at Yatsugatake, the temperature dropped to -11 Celsius at night.” The intense nature of OMM didn’t scare the crowd away; in fact, the Japan edition continued to grow over the years with 700 people signing up for the second race and 1,000 for the third. They set the maximum capacity to 1,300 participants for the fourth race onwards as that was the number they felt safe with the size of the area. If they wanted to open up to even more people, they’d have to add new courses or expand the race area. Finding the space to do an off-trail event in Japan is hard. Depending on the location, the Nomadics team secures proper permissions with the Ministry of Forestry, cities, prefectures and landowners before creating the race map and setting up control stations. Each year, the race takes place across different areas of Japan. “OMM Japan 2018 in Okumikawa, Aichi was personally the most interesting course because the navigation was challenging,” says Komine who is now OMM Japan’s

race director. “This really proved that OMM is tough both physically and navigationally. This year, people will be challenged by the altitude. There are fewer forest trails compared to the previous years and people are going to be exposed to the elements and wind especially while camping.” COMMUNITY Part of the reason why OMM requires runners to return to the overnight camp area is to build rapport among racers. “In the beginning, we were lucky to put together a great team. We had risk assessment, course creation, planning—and all at a high level,” Jensen recalls. “Everyone on our team was the best at what they did. Because we were able to put that team together, we could grow the OMM community here through the races and workshops.” While trail running and mountain sports in Japan have become more popular, overall navigation skills remain low. The result has been an increase in people getting lost in the mountains. “Japanese people are good at rock climbing and trail running, but there’s still a lot of improvement needed on mountain skills,” says Komine. “We want to educate people and teach self-reliance through adventure races like this.” If OMM sounds too extreme, don’t worry. The OMM Lite—the entry-level race—started two years ago. This summer event is designed to give people a feel of an OMM race without worrying whether they or their gear is strong or good enough. The OMM Lite only has a Score course making it easier for people to complete. It’s still

a two-day race and there are some off-trail areas, but most controls are on trail. Each team can consist of two to five people and families and friends who are not participating can camp with you in the overnight camping area. There are food booths, music and even a bar. Last year in Hakuba, they kept the night gondola running so people could enjoy stargazing from the mountains. This year, the OMM Bike (the cycling version of OMM Lite) will be held simultaneously as well. “The coolest thing about all this is creating this community and growing it,” says Jensen. “We’re helping everyone get a higher level of understanding of how to enjoy the mountains safely. And that’s pretty cool.” For more information or to sign up for the upcoming events, go to www.theomm.jp (Japanese) or www.theomm.com (English). 

OMM Lite / Bike When: July 13-14, 2019 Where: Hakuba / Otari, Nagano OMM Japan When: Nov. 9-10, 2019 Where: Kirigamine / Kurumayama, Nagano

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Outdoor Japan Traveler | Issue 71 | Summer 2019

Articles inside

Japan Eco Track: Miyagi-Kennan Hamakaido