Outdoor Japan Traveler | Issue 74 | Spring 2020

ISSUE 74

SPRING 2020

Cycling Mt. Ishizuchi

A Dream of White Horses Keep Aridagawa Weird Paradise Found in No Man’ s Land

Free Fall with Hanako Hirose Spring Social Distancing Trails to Table in Taiki

Embark on an unforgettable ecotour experience to the Ogasawara Islands, a World Natural Heritage site that is part of Tokyo!

PHOTO BY OGASAWARA VILLAGE TOURISM BUREAU

Go whale watching between February and April, swim with wild dolphins and encounter birds and plants unique to these remote islands.

visitogasawara

visitogasawara.com

I S S U E 74

SPRING 2020

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PARADISE FOUND IN NO MAN'S LAND INSIDE

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12

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Keep Aridagawa Weird

Free Fall: Interview with Hanako Hirose

Taiki: Trails to Table

Peak Cuisine on Mt. Iwatakeishi

From the Editor . . . . . . . . . 5 Spring Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

A Dream of White Horses

Japan Eco Track: Mt. Ishizuchi

Market Watch . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Travel Directory . . . . . . . . . 28

Spring 2020 | 3

4 | TRAVELER

Published Seasonally

F r om t h eEdi t o r

T

PUBLISHER Outdoor Japan G.K.

he symbolism of spring has never been more poignant than in 2020. The country feels like it has been reeling ever since the super typhoon swept over Japan last October, wreaking havoc in many communities including ours here in northern Nagano. The winter season, which attracts powder lovers from around the world started off with a whimper, with many resorts struggling to open

by Christmas. The snow did arrive and there were some incredible days on the mountain. While the industry has limped through one of the most underwhelming seasons in nearly a century, overall resorts made it through the bulk of the season unscathed before the news broke of the silent killer from Wuhan.

The chaos that Covid-19 has brought to travelers, Japan residents and the global economy could not have been seen through the clearest crystal ball. Japan is no stranger to natural—or man-made—disasters and while pundits the world over argue about the best way to contain or stop the contagion I’m grateful to live in a country that handles emergency situations with grace and calm. Here in Nozawa Onsen many of our staff have chosen to stay here, rather than return to what awaits in their homeland. We’ve shared tears and embraces with travelers, staff and friends ordered home by their country’s leaders, scared of what will come of jobs, mortgages and what the future has in store.

Yet, as the initial rush of fear has abated, nearly everyone we meet has dealt with the new normal with a dignified resignation that we are all in this together. Like many, my family’s spring travel plans came to an abrupt halt when the U.S. decided to place a quarantine on any visitors to Saipan. We were looking forward to enjoying some stunning Micronesian sunsets and seeing old friends, but now is not the time. Knowing travel restrictions hit everyone from airlines, hotels, restaurants and workers across many industries is frustrating. Skymark Airlines had just restored direct flights from Japan to Saipan and there was a a lot of excitement about the return of many Japanese travelers to Saipan, but that’s now on hold.

A common theme during this extraordinary time has been the opportunity to simplify, slow down and focus on what’s most important: health, happiness, friends and family. It’s unfortunate that it takes a global disaster to force us to look inward and be more thankful for what we have. The pause on industry and travel is also an opportunity for Mother Nature to catch her breath. The satellite photos of some of the world’s most polluted cities minus the dark haze are promising, and perhaps will give a new perspective to people living in these places and a renewed priority on health over wealth.

And with all this free fresh air to be had there’s literally no better time to get outside and explore your immediate surroundings. Ride a bike. Hike a mountain.

Climb a rock. Ride a wave. Spring is a season of rebirth and regrowth and this year it is also a reset. We hope our readers will support local businesses when they can, find fun, safe ways to enjoy the great outdoors, travel with their families and close friends and enjoy the simple pleasures of living in a beautiful place like Japan.

Onward!

—Gardner Robinson Editor-in-Chief

DIRECTORS Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Gardner Robinson MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR Rie Miyoshi CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Bill Ross CONTRIBUTORS Joan Bailey, Amy Chavez, Tony Grant, Neil Hartmann, Pauline Kitamura, Pete Leong, Takashi Niwa, Justin Stein DESIGN Outdoor Japan OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. 45 Yubiso, Minakami-machi, Tone-gun, Gunma-ken 〒 379-1728 EDITORIAL INQUIRIES editor@outdoorjapan.com VIDEO / MEDIA PRODUCTION media@outdoorjapan.com SPONSORSHIP / PROMOTIONS media@outdoorjapan.com DESTINATION MARKETING media@outdoorjapan.com www.facebook/japantraveler www.twitter.com/outdoorjapan www.youtube.com/outdoorjapan www.instagram.com/outdoorjapan

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©2020 OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Views expressed herein are not necessarily those of OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. Printed in Japan.

Cover Photo: Toshiki Mori

Spring 2020 | 5

Keep ARIDAGAWA Weird

BY RIE MIYOSHI

I

t ’s l u n c h t i m e a t t h e r e d - r o o f e d Tadano nursery school tucked away in Aridagawa, Wakayama—but you won’t find kids running to get their lunchboxes.

Now called “The Living Room,” the nursery school was closed in 2016 and refurbished into Nomcraft Brewing’s headquarters.

Nomcraft Brewing is the brainchild of Aridagawa Weird, an eclectic community of local residents, farmers and local business owners. One of the members, Ya s uhi to A ri i , w a s i n s p i re d b y h ow Portland built itself from a farming and logging town to becoming one of the trendiest cities in America. The name “Aridagawa Weird” is a nod to Portland’s famous slogan, “Keep Portland Weird.”

Using Portland as a guide to redesigning Aridagawa, Arii invited architects from Portland to collaborate with the locals to remodel The Living Room in 2019.

In keeping up with the Oregon theme, Aridagawa Weird launched Nomcraft Brewing hiring Portland native Ben Emrich as their head brewer. Ben’s unique situation of living in Japan as a teacher and growing up during Portland’s own revitalization made for a perfect match.

“Brewing in Aridagawa has exceeded my expectations,” says Ben. “At first I was a bit nervous when I came here, but our investors say that making good beer and having fun should be our top priority. The local people have been fantastic as well— there are so many craftspeople here! We are always being offered help building what we need and we never feel like we won’t be able to get a fun project done.”

6 | TRAVELER

Mikan (tangerines) are Aridagawa’s main fruit, so it was natural for Nomcraft to incorporate this local citrus into their beer to honor the harvest season in late autumn. Rather than using the juice— which oftentimes doesn’t taste pleasant after fermentation—citrus peels add fragrant oils to the beer and a deep mikan flavor to the Mikan Harvest Haze (6%) without adding much bitterness. The larger dekopon is very sweet and slightly sour, and contributes a strong orange flavor to the Five Strings Hazy (6.5%).

The Mad Hatter’s Beer Party (5.5%) uses bergamot which is often used in earl gray tea.

“We’ve been able to work with and get great advice from many of the local citrus farmers,” says brewer Adam Baran.

“It goes full circle: we work with a local mikan and chicken farmer to reuse our spent grain after brewing and then we use the mikan in future beers. We are also thinking of making bread with the spent grains from brewing.”

Nomcraft is working on ways to start a small-city brewers association to help promote other small Japanese breweries and products. In collaboration with Hino Brewing in Shiga, they recently made a lager, the Pon Poro Lager (pon poro means steamy in the Arida dialect).

They are also working with Ryukoku University in Kyoto who plan on spreading unique Japanese flavors around the world including budo sansho, a type of Japanese pepper closely related to the Chinese Szechuan pepper. The underrated budo sansho originated in

All American, American. all the time.

this region and has a numbing heat with a sharp citrus punch. The sansho adds a citrus aroma and flavor to the final beer with a bit of the tingly numbness. The alcohol content does not change since there is no sugar in the sansho. While they have not made one in house yet, Ben has made two collaboration beers in Portland using budo sansho.

Guests are welcome to go on a brewery tour and even watch a brew day at Nomcraft. The brewery also hosts community events such as a monthly beer garden event where they invite local shops and restaurants. The Living Room is literally the city’s “living room” for locals and travelers to relax, gather and hold meetings. It also houses the Golden River taproom where guests can sample Nomcraft beer and Granavenir bakery goods. There are even talks of building a guesthouse.

“We would like to not only make beer here in Aridagawa, but also create a craft beer culture,” says Adam. “And in a similar vein, we want to share Aridagawa’s culture across Japan.”

Since Aridagawa is close to both the mountains and ocean, hiking, fishing and cycling are very popular here and visitors

can even rent bicycles for free from Fujinami Station, the closest station to the brewery. There are cycling routes that go up the mountains and to Mt. Koya, the site of Kobo Daishi's mausoleum and the start and end point of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. Campgrounds are a short drive away.

The easiest way to get to Aridagawa is by car or an express train called the Kuroshio that leaves from Shin-Osaka Station to Fujinami Station. It takes about an hour and a half from central Osaka by both car and train. The brewery is a threekilometer walk on the Popo-michi path from Fujinami Station and takes around 30 to 40 minutes, but taxis are also available from the station. Although drinking and driving (or biking) is not allowed, Nomcraft also offers bottles for people to take home. 

Nomcraft Brewing

Aridagawa, Wakayama Prefecture Three-kilometer walk from Fujinami Station (070) 4211-5114 Brewery: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily The Golden River Taproom: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday to Monday www.nomcraft.beer

Kannai

Yokohama

Shinagawa Home delivery OK! Check our website!

Spring 2020 | 7

GUIDE LINES

Spring Social Distancing in the Great Outdoors Finding room to roam and fresh air has taken on a new significance this spring, but luckily Japan has plenty of both. While many large events and festivals have been cancelled or postponed, there are still many ways to safely and responsibly enjoy the green season from human-powered travel to underwater adventures to having plenty of personal space while road tripping around Japan. Here are a few of our favorite experiences you can enjoy this spring.

1

TREEHOUSE CAMPING IN NOZAWA ONSEN Immerse yourself in nature at Green Field Nozawa Onsen, an eco-friendly campsite deck built among the trees. Great for families and friends who want some privacy (or avoid crowds), this campsite opens from Golden Week to the beginning of October. For ¥30,000 per night (¥35,000 on Saturday nights), rent this private space which comes with two tents for four people each, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, a BBQ grill and Dutch oven, LED lanterns and a hammock. In July to September, you can also enjoy a “Farm Buffet” which sources seasonal vegetables from local farms.

Some water supply is provided, but it’s recommended to bring additional water to drink and cook. There is no electricity and all trash must be disposed by customers.

There is a composting toilet. The campsite is located close to central Nozawa Onsen Village where there are many soto-yu (free natural hot spring) bathhouses.

You could even combine camping a t G re e n F i e l d N o z a w a O n s e n a n d stand-up paddling. Go for a relaxing SUP session with Shin’etsu Shizenkyo Activity Center located at Iiyama Station on the Hokuriku Shinkansen line. There are several options here including the Chikuma River, Lake Hokuryu and Biwa Pond. www.shinetsu-activity.jp/en

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2

JAPAN ROAD TRIPPING There’s no better way to explore Japan right now than camping cars, which allow you to limit contact with others and enjoy the freedom to roam at your own pace. Road trips in Japan are generally convenient as there are plenty of michi no eki (roadside facilities with parking lots, dining options and bathrooms) and onsen baths nationwide.

The creative folk at DreamDrive have refurbished vans into comfortable “hotels on wheels” that house up to four people.

Their recommended routes include a loop around Mt. Fuji, a weekend to the Izu peninsula and a road trip from Tokyo to Kyoto. They’ve also mapped onsen and spots for travelers to easily park for the night.

“We’re literally a hotel on wheels; our bedding is cleaned and sterilized off site by hotel suppliers,” reassures founder Jared Campion who sees an increase of travelers opting for camping van rentals.

“All van surfaces are disinfected with professional graded cleaners and we also provide manuals on what to do in case our customers are feeling ill during the trip.” www.dreamdrive.life

3

JAPAN ON TWO WHEELS Based in Ota, Gunma, RideJapan showcases Japan’s regional spots including the Japan Alps in Nagano and Sugura Bay and Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka. These routes are best enjoyed April to June, as clear views of a snow-capped Mt. Fuji make for an iconic image. In summer, Hakuba, Niseko and Matsumoto provide relief from the urban humidity.

Guided tours are fully supported and balance quality cycling and immersive cultural experiences. Fully customizable self-guided tours, e-bikes and gravel bikes are also available.

“Although we are primarily focused on the inbound market, we are also hoping to bring back some of our events and long rides which are geared more towards the domestic market,” says director Adam Cobain. “However, we are taking a cautious approach during this stage and advise against group rides.”

Self-guided tours include premium bike rentals, GPS routes and unit rentals and accommodation. Cobain is currently offering a 10% discount off self-guided tour bookings for Outdoor Japan readers. www.ridejapan.cc

4

TRADITIONAL FREEDIVING WITH AMA DIVERS Dive head first into a 3,000-year-old tradition: ama freediving. Ama freedivers are women who catch shellfish and pick seaweed by hand underwater without a diving tank.

The number of ama divers have been decreasing around Japan; most of them are in Mie Prefecture. Miescape takes travelers on a half-day experience as you visit an authentic ama hut and are guided underwater by an ama diver. End the day enjoying a seafood BBQ while listening to the divers’ stories.

Tours start at Wagu Gyoko Fishing Port in Ise, Mie Prefecture and run every Tuesday and Saturday from April to mid-September and any day of the week from mid-September to the end of October. English translation available. For availability, contact Miescape at www.miescape.jp.

5

DIVE OKINAWA'S OUTER ISLANDS Mantas are the main attraction on Ishigaki Island. When conditions are clear, Diving School Umicoza takes divers to visit a manta ray cleaning station, a special dive site Umicoza’s owner discovered. May to October is the best time to view the mantas as the south wind continues and sea conditions remain calm.

Founded in 1985, Umicoza is one of Ishigaki’s oldest dive shops and part of the Yaeyama Diving Association. It is run by husband-and-wife duo Harvey Tiew and Miki Ando and is the only English, Chinese and Japanese-speaking dive shop. They regularly sterilize regulators, snorkels and mask every after use.

Umicoza currently has a special discount until June 30: a 10% discount for groups over two people and a 5% cashback for every booking paid by credit card. www.umicoza.com

6

KERAMA ISLAND HOPPING The Kerama Islands are just an hour boat ride from the main Okinawa island and makes for a great day trip. With Seasir you can enjoy a full-day diving trip in clear waters (at least 30 meters visibility) teeming with tropical fish.

Their Leisure Diving Package and Refresher Course Dive Package both start in Naha and include two to three dives. Snorkeling and introductory diving tours are also available.

Seasir has a special promotion for inbound travelers: receive a 10% discount if you have a friend or relative who booked with Seasir in 2019 (fill in their email address in the comment box when booking online). They also have a discounted rate for their Leisure Diving Package: if a minimum of two divers book, receive a 10% discount and free use of full scuba equipment.

As Okinawa is a popular travel destination, Seasir ensures that all rental equipment is disinfected with alcohol after every use. Their stores and boats are equipped with disinfectants, their staff are given masks and customers with coughing symptoms on the day of the tour are not allowed to participate. www.seasir.com

7 IZU SEA KAYAKING Find white sandy beaches, caves and natural rock arches and bridges at Izu Peninsula just south of Tokyo. Surface Kayak takes visitors on a leisurely six-hour excursion out into the open sea (includes a quick kayaking lesson for beginners and lunch).

During the warmer months, the clear waters are great for snorkeling and small cliff jumps.

If you’re lucky, you might even see sea turtles and flying fish.

Owner Masashi Takeda says that now is a good time to get outdoors and into nature. “There’s so much press on everything else that’s going on around the world,” says Takeda. “As an outdoor operator I hope to get people to leave that for a while and come and enjoy nature.” www.the-surface.com

Spring 2020 | 9

8

MT. FUJI ON HORSEBACK Even if you’ve never ridden a horse before, you’ll feel at ease in no time at Okamoto Riding Club. Located in Gotemba, Shizuoka, this riding club is popular for its tailored riding lessons (for adults and children) and bilingual services.

All trainers are certified riding instructors.

The half-day course starts off with a relaxing ride through the surrounding hills and rice fields where you’ll see Mt. Fuji up close on a clear day. After that you’ll learn basic horseback riding skills back at the club.

“Spring is one of the best seasons to go riding,” says owner Masami Okamoto.

He represented Japan in international riding competitions and placed in the top 40 world ranking among competitors before the 2000 Olympics. “It’s warm enough to enjoy long periods outside and enjoy the open air.” His team disinfects all equipment every day and lets fresh air circulate in their clubhouse for safety. www.okamotoriding.com

11

MT. FUJI ECOTOURS Go on guided nature and e-bike tours around the sleepy town of Fujinomiya at the foot of Mt. Fuji with En-Ya Mt. Fuji Ecotours. Visit sake breweries using Mt. Fuji’s clean meltwater, enjoy farm-to-table dining, stop by the famous Shiraito Falls, cycle to temples built in the middle of rice paddies, hike to Hoei Crater and discover what life is like for the people living near Japan’s most famous mountain.

“Fujinomiya is famous for clean and delicious water that comes from Mt. Fuji so there are lots of opportunities to wash our hands,” owner Masa Shintani half jokes. Shintani has worked on sustainable ecotourism projects in Iran, Vietnam, Gabon and now in Fujinomiya City.

Mt. Fuji Ecotours is currently working with camper van companies in Japan to provide packaged private tours and limiting tours to up to four people. They are also offering 20% off their e-bike tours. www.mtfujiecotours.com

10 | TRAVELER

9

MINAKAMI CANYONING Find solace in Minakami, a UNESCO biosphere reserve just a little over an hour away from Tokyo. In spring, meltwater from the snowy mountains result in excellent whitewater and rafting conditions. Canyons has modified tours to create a safe, immune-boosting experience by limiting tour participant numbers, providing options for private tours, checking participants’ and staff’s health status and thorough sanitization of people, equipment and the Canyons base.

“Within the chaos, outdoor activities seem to be one of the best options for both mental and physical wellbeing,” says owner Mike Harris. “It also does not conflict with the three ‘no’s’ issued by the government as you would be enjoying the wide spaces and fresh air of the outdoors without the crowds.”

Keep an eye out for Golden Week specials on Canyons’ website, especially the stay and play packs utilizing their riverside glamping area. www.canyons.jp

12

CYCLE TOKYO'S BACKSTREETS Discover the story behind all the lucky cats at Gotokuji Temple, enjoy a vegan lunch and other local eateries and go beyond the tourist spots of Tokyo with Freewheeling Japan which is located in Sasazuka just a stone’s throw away from Shinjuku and Yoyogi Park. A full-day course which runs from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. goes for around 15 to 20 kilometers. Their night rides are recommended during summer.

“Practicing ‘social distancing’ is fairly easy when on two wheels and outside,” says founder and avid cyclist Brad Bennett.

“We are doing our best to offer breaks in uncrowded areas with clean restrooms and washing facilities nearby, have lunch under the trees instead of a crowded restaurant and focus on private tours for single travelers, couples and families.”

Between April and June 2020, Freewheeling is currently offering a 50% discount off their half-day VIP private tour.

Participants may request a flexible start and finish time; includes a lunch box set or extra snacks with a coffee or fresh-pressed juice. www.freewheeling.jp

10

SHIKOKU WHITEWATER The clear emerald green river Yoshino River is nature’s own water park during the green season. Happy Raft has been running rafting and canyoning tours in Kochi Prefecture since 2004. There are half-day, one-day and family rafting trips from March to November and canyoning tours from July to September.

“I visited Shikoku in 2001 and camped around the island while surfing, hiking and exploring the Yoshino River,” recalls founder Mark Treston who used to work as a rafting guide in North Queensland, Australia. “I was hooked! The following year I moved here with my family and we’ve been in Shikoku ever since.”

Happy Raft’s personalized tours run in small groups and they also own cozy guesthouses perfect for those wanting to escape the city and get some fresh air.

There are uncrowded hiking trails nearby as well. en.happyraft.com

13

HOKKAIDO FARMSTAYS Dubbed the “snowiest farm in the world,” Hopi Hills is a charming farmstay located in Akaigawa, Hokkaido—close to Kiroro Ski Resort. Their petting farm houses an adorable family of baby rabbits, ducklings, ponies, alpacas, an ostrich and a goat. Go horseback riding during the day and enjoy a locally sourced grilled dinner at night.

Their comfortable yurts sleep up to four people and come with a heater and a specially designed clear dome roof that lets you look up at the stars as you drift off.

"We're surrounded by forests and fields, breathing fresh mountain air," says farm director Liam Bartley. "There is nowhere on the planet I would rather be right now." www.hopihills.com 

MARKET WATCH

BY JOAN BAILEY

Eat Local Kobe

E

at Local Kobe Farmer’s market was established just over five years ago to give local organic growers a much-needed outlet. Eat Local is a community food hub featuring nearly 200 vendors serving up some of the area’s freshest local fare. All of the farmers, brewers, bakers, tofu makers and more on hand throughout the year have a Kobe address or come from within a 30-kilometer radius of the city. Those looking for local flavor will find this market a treasure trove.

Shingo and Maiko Nakano of Morning Dew Farm grow their rice and vegetables on the city’s west side. The two started working their land fifteen years ago using natural farming techniques that rely on composting and mulching without tilling.

Each week, along with their heirloom rice and vegetables, they serve up tasty breakfast treats to hungry shoppers.

Michihiro Maruyama joined Eat Local Kobe shortly after establishing his farm five years ago. His organic vegetables, which are a combination of old and new varieties—as well as rice and seedlings— are popular. His whimsical display that tucks toy trucks and figurines between bags of vibrant produce, draws the youngest of customers over for a closer look while their parents shop.

Maruyama’s Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) partner Junko Oosara of Naturalismo Farm, runs a busy stand with an abundance of seasonal vegetables, rice, and flour. Other items she sells include koji, a mold grown on rice, for those who use this traditional fermenter to marinate vegetables and meats. CSA members can pick up their weekly box of seasonal produce sourced from six local farmers at the market or other predetermined locations around Kobe.

Masaru Kitasaka makes his way from nearby Awajishima where his father started raising chickens and selling eggs fifty years ago. He added farm tours and an online store when he took over.

Customers flock to his table each week for fresh eggs.

Those seeking to pause and rejuvenate visit Fumitaka Kono who happily discusses the intricacies of coffee roasting and brewing while carefully making cup by delicious steaming cup of coffee. Visitors hankering for a different kind of morning pick-me-up might enjoy In Tha Door Brewing’s seasonal beers sourced primarily from locally-grown ingredients.

While fresh or prepared food are the main attractions here, there are also workshops and events, including November’s annual Farm to Fork Festival.

Those who miss the Saturday market can find the same items along with fish and meat at the Eat Local Kobe Farmstand seven days a week. A daily vegetarianfriendly lunch special in the café is well worth sampling as well.

EAT LOCAL KOBE Kobe East Park, Hyogo 10-min. walk from Sannomiya Station Saturdays, 9 a.m.-12:30 p.m. www.eatlocalkobe.org

Spring 2020 | 11

PHOTO ESSAY

Taiki

TRAILS TO TABLE PHOTOS BY PETE LEONG

A

s rural villages around Japan are facing population decline, one sleepy fishing town in Mie Prefecture decided to change things up. In 2019, the Taiki Town Seaside Tra i l launched t heir fir s t tr ail r un starting at Nishiki Bay. The one-day annual event is held in the beginning of February and the trail circumnavigates the Nishiki por tion of Taiki Town.

Participants can opt for the long (23K) or short (14K) race—both go up the 503-meter Mt. Himego. www.nature-scene.net/taiki

12 | TRAVELER

Travelers to Taiki will be greeted by quintessential Japanese ocean and mountain views, yet the main attraction of this seaside town is the local cuisine.

Taiki features an abundance of Ise ebi (Japanese spiny lobster) and other fresh seafood, ayu and freshwater crabs, Matsusaka beef and seasonal vegetables.

Miescape is a tour operator working with the local community to create unique agritourism experiences such as learning how to har vest seafood with ama freedivers and visiting the morning market with Ise ebi fishermen.

To b o o k t h e s e ex p e r i e n c e s, v i s i t www.miescape.jp.

There are almost no hotels in Taiki, but there is a net work of minpaku ( p r i v ate l o d gi ng ) w he r e t r avel e r s can stay with farmers or fishermen and even participate in farming and cooking experiences. In the warmer months, stand-up paddling, boating and swimming are popular. Travelers can also easily combine Taiki Town with a trip to the famous Ise Jingu Shrine, an hour drive away.

GETTING THERE The closest major city to Taiki Town is Nagoya. It takes a little less than two hours by car from Nagoya. However if you’re coming by public transportation, t ake the Kintet su Railway or JR Wideview Nanki Express from Nagoya Station to Matsusaka Station (not to be confused with Matsuzaka Station).

From Matsusaka Station take the JR Kisei Main Line or Mie Kotsu Nanki Express Bus. You can also take the Mie Kot su Nagoya Nanki Highway Bus direc t from Nagoya Station (Meitetsu Bus Center) to Taiki Town.

For more information or bookings, visit www.taiki-okuise.jp. ď ś

Spring 2020 | 13

A DREAM OF

White Horses

BY TONY GRANT

Glancing down to check my footing, I tried to ignore the forty meters of rope snaking down below me without a single piece of protection securing it to the steep snow of Mt. Shirouma’s famous headwall. I knew that Michael was anchored to a good piton in a solid rock protruding from the snow but, if I fell here, it would be a big one.

Spreading my weight and thinking light thoughts, I kicked a few more steps upwards to just below the overhanging cornice that marks the transition from the East Face to the summit. I then unclipped the snow stake from my harness. It went in like a hot knife through butter…probably not much use here, but it would have to be enough. “Breathe,” I told myself, savoring the jaw-dropping exposure of this moment I’d been dreaming of for month.

14 | TRAVELER

H

ow did this moment come to pass? As so many plans do, it started with a photo in a book and a name on a map. At 2,932 meters, Mt. Shirouma ( 白馬岳 ), or “The White Hor s e,” is t he queen of Hakuba’s giants: the chain of peaks that runs north to south on the eastern edge of the North Alps of Japan. This is big snow country, and people flock here in winter to ski the famous powder resorts on the flanks of the mountains.

As luck would have it, there is a direct route to the summit up the main ridge of the East Face. In summer it is so steep and loose that it would be madness to go near it, and in winter the deep snow rules it out. But in April, when the spring temperatures arrive and the snow consolidates, a window opens up for those with the right skills and experience to pass through.

I fir s t became acquainted with the main ridge, Shu-r yo ( 主 稜 ), of Mt. Shirouma while perusing the “Challenge! Alpine Climbing” guidebook. The color photo on page 27 was a side shot of climbers pitching the headwall at the top of the East Face. The image grabbed me and wouldn’t let go. What would it feel like to be up there, adrift, with the whole East Face dropping of f below your boots? There was only one way to find out.

Shouldering heavy packs full of camping and climbing gear, Michael a n d I b e g a n t h e s h o r t h i ke f r o m the Sar ukur a Tr ailhead in the late afternoon. An hour later we chose a safe site for our tent at Shiroumajiri and began leveling out a platform. We had deliberately chosen the day before the start of the Golden Week holidays for our ascent, and were pleased to be the only tent. The ridge would be ours alone.

After a quick breakfast we donned harnesses and crampons and set off in the darkness, crunching our way up the firm lower slopes to gain the ridge.

It pays to set out early on snow routes like this, to get as far up the ridge as possible before the mid-morning sun wreaks havoc. As the sun rose behind us, we hit the start of the ridge proper.

The Shu-r yo is a series of rising peaks and bumps, numbered in sequence from P8 at the top of the approach slopes all the way up to P1— the summit itself. Connecting these peaks is a thrilling knife-edge snow ridge, with a total height-gain from basecamp to summit of approximately 1,40 0 meter s. In places the r idge is overhung on one side with huge whipped cream cornices. We took care to stay well away from these.

At P5 t h i n g s o p e n e d o u t a n d began to steepen, and we could feel our excitement rising. Conditions were perfect, and we made quick progress.

By mid - mor ning we were f rontpointing up the final knife-edged arête to the top of P2, the last resting spot at the foot of the infamous headwall.

As Michael pulled over onto the small flat perch, I unpacked the rope and contemplated the line I should take.

The headwall is approximately sixty meters high and exposed on all sides to enor mous drops. Our rope was fifty meters long, so it would take two pitches. Twenty minutes later I was reaching up with my ice axe to begin hacking out an exit through the fabled cornice.

A s I p ull e d ove r o nto t h e f lat summit, I felt elated. Walking several meters back from the cornice I sank the shafts of both axes into the snow, equalized them for an anchor, and shouted to Michael to take me of f b elay. A s he climb e d t he pitc h, I

couldn’t resist whipping my camera out to take the classic shot of him on the headwall, the whole East Face sweeping down below him.

Temperatures were now quite high, and we jogged down the Daisekkei in our base layers, anxious to minimize our time in the avalanche zone. After s triking camp and packing up, we looked back at the perfect route we had just climbed. Bidding farewell to The White Horse, we headed back down in the direction of our car and wherever the next dream might lead us. 

Spring 2020 | 15

F R E E FA L L AN INTERVIEW WITH HANAKO HIROSE

BY RIE MIYOSHI

Photo by Alex St. Jean

“O

16| |TRAVELER TRAVELER 16

Photo by Daan Verhoevern

ne hundred meters...and touch down!” Cheers erupt as Hanako Hirose grabs a tag from the hundred-meter mark deep below the turquoise Bahama waters. The petite 33-year-old with her signature platinum blonde hair broke the world record in 2017—and 2018—at the women’s Vertical Blue competition hosted

by Association Internationale pour le Développement de l'Apnée (AIDA), the world free diving association. She’s not only Japan’s top female freediver, she also holds a record for holding her breath for an impressive seven minutes and three seconds.

While she’s not diving into the abyss she’s spreading awareness in Japan about this sport. Outdoor Japan caught up with her while she was back in her hometown in Chiba, training for her next big competition.

Rie Miyoshi: You were born on Tokyo’s outer islands, do most people dive there?

Hanako Hirose: Yes, my dad is from Mikurajima, you’ve probably heard of the island because it’s famous for dolphin swimming. My family lived there until I was around two or three then we moved to Urayasu City on the mainland, but I went back to the island to visit my grandparents a lot.

You’d actually be surprised—in Japan, locals who live really close to the water don’t swim much. When they do, it’s for functional purposes. For example, my dad and grandma used to dive for shellfish and fish to eat.

RM: Did your childhood in Mikurajima affect your decision to become a professional freediver?

HH: For sure. Mikurajima is very small, around 300 residents, and a lot of my relatives live there. One of them owned a dolphin tour boat so he’d bring me along. I’ve been swimming with dolphins since I was in elementary school.

I loved everything about the ocean: diving, swimming with dolphins and just being in the water.

As I kept swimming, I wanted to see what my limits were and challenge myself to dive deeper. I was particularly inspired by the movie “The Big Blue” which opened my eyes to the freediving world. During my second year of high school, I signed up for a short two-day freediving course in Izu. That’s around the time I determined that one day I was going to break the world record for freediving.

RM: Have you been competing professionally since then?

HH: After high school I enrolled in vocational school for scuba diving.

At that time, there weren’t many professional freediving associations or schools in Japan, so I went to scuba diving school. But I didn’t want to become a scuba diving instructor. I almost didn’t complete my degree, but my teacher urged me to graduate, then after that I could work as a freediver at his dive shop in Chiba, True North. That was the start of my freediving career. It’s also where I met my husband; he’s the manager there.

RM: When did you break the world record?

HH: I reached 103 meters during the Vertical Blue 2017 competition in the Bahamas. Unfortunately the next day my rival, a girl from Italy, broke that record. The next year I reached 106 meters. The Italian freediver broke that record the next day too! So for 2020 I want to break the top record again and am working on training the muscles needed to dive deeper.

I train in the pool through winter until March or April. When it gets warmer I head south to Amami Oshima.

I’m trying to establish a community there now as freediving is still very new.

There aren’t many places to practice deep water freediving in Japan so I usually go to the Philippines, or the Bahamas, to practice a month before the competition.

RM: Does your family support your freediving career?

HH: Each time before a competition my parents tell me to be careful. There’s

Photo by Go Hayakata

"There’s a point where the ocean just draws you in—it usually happens between 20 to 40 meters depending on your body weight—and it’s called 'free fall.' It’s complete relaxation as I close my eyes and stay calm and focused." an underwater camera that follows the divers down so you can watch the competition live from overseas. I want my parents and husband to watch me but they always tell me they’re too scared to watch so they’ll check out the recaps (laughs).

RM: You look really calm when diving.

What’s going on inside your mind?

HH: I don’t really think a lot when I dive. There’s a point where the ocean

just draws you in—it usually happens between 20 to 40 meters depending on your body weight—and it’s called “free fall.” It’s complete relaxation as I close my eyes and stay calm and focused.

I’m not even kicking anymore because I’m just falling. I turn off all my thoughts and emotions and become part of the ocean. It’s a really comfortable feeling.

RM: I think most people might panic at that point—do you have advice for those interested in freediving?

HH: Of course there are the technical aspects of freediving, but the most important part I stress is understanding your body and how it relaxes. It’s so important to be in the right mindset.

When my 106-meter record was broken in 2018, I rushed to break it again the next day. Because I was stressed and pushed myself in the wrong way, I blacked out while diving, which immediately counts against your race. A major part of freediving is to relax and let go. When you’re able to do that, it’s easier to hold your breath for longer periods underwater.

Spring 2020 | 17

RM: What do you see for the future of freediving in Japan?

HH: I see more growth within the female community in regards to freediving, possibly because the gateways are more female oriented: dolphin swimming, mindfulness, yoga.

Freediving is an extreme sport and most people are scared of it. We’re not used to water and the media focuses on the “holding breath” part. It has a dangerous reputation.

But I want more people to see it from a different angle. Yes, you have to hold your breath but it’s more than that and, with practice, anyone can freedive. I’d like to see it perceived as a lifestyle sport and a form of relaxation, whether you’re swimming with dolphins or taking a dip into the ocean.

Hanako will compete in the 2020 Vertical Blue competition held in the Bahamas in July. Follow her diving adventures at www.instagram.com/hanakofreediving.

She also hosts freediving courses in Japan throughout the year and can speak some English. More information can be found at www.instagram.com/hanakofreediving and www. hanakofreediving.com. 

Photo by Alex St. Jean

18 | TRAVELER

OUTDOOR COOKING

Peak Cuisine on Mt. Iwatakeishi

BY PAULINE KITAMURA

I

magine sitting on a mountaintop with breathtaking views overlooking a vast green forest. You sip your freshly brewed coffee while birds are chirping all around you. A gentle breeze blows into this open space—a welcome breath of fresh air during these stressful pandemic times.

This “outdoor kitchen/restaurant” with spectacular views is on top of Mt. Iwatakeishi (793m) in Ome, Tokyo. It’s part of the Okutama Mountain Range and is the highest of three mountains collectively known as Takamizusanzan ( 高水三山 —literally translated as “the three mountains of Takamizu”). The trailhead is conveniently located just a few minutes north of the Mitake Station on the JR Ome Line. There are vending machines where you can pick up some last minute drinks and a public restroom (there won’t be any for another three hours).

Don’t be discouraged by the steep first 15 minutes of the hike. The trail will start to flatten out as you make your way up the mountain. After reaching a small wooden shrine, take the left fork up to the top of the 756-meter Mt. Sougaku ( 惣岳山 ). You can also skip this first peak and forego bagging the “three peaks” by going right and taking the detour route that winds around the mountain instead of up and over it.

The “peak” of this first mountain is flat and spacious but completely surrounded by a forest.There is an old wooden shrine called the Aoi Okumiya Jinja (the “rear” shrine of the main Aoi Shrine at the foot of the mountain). Upon first glance, this shrine, surrounded by an old rusty fence, looks quite derelict, but upon

closer examination there are elaborate wood carvings engraved on this once magnificent structure.

The short climb down Mt. Sougaku is steep and rocky. Go slowly and be careful not to drop rocks onto hikers below. Once you reach the bottom, the trail flattens out onto a nice easy trail that takes you towards the second mountain—Mt. Iwatakeishi. It’s another 40-minute hike with the final approach up a steep rocky climb. Once you reach the top, you’ll be immediately rewarded to jaw-dropping views of the Okumusashi Mountains.

The peak of Mt. Iwadakeishi is a flat area suitable for setting up your portable outdoor kitchen. There are a few wooden benches but you can also just layout your picnic sheet facing any direction to take in the spectacular 360-degree views.

The easiest and quickest descent is to take the same route down. If you prefer a different route, you can hike towards the third mountain—Mt. Takamizu—and stop by the beautiful Takamizu Shrine. The descending trail from the shrine gets quite steep with big wooden stairs. Once you reach the trailhead exit, proceed down the long paved road until you see a big red bridge overhead. Just before the bridge take a right turn up a narrow paved road and cross the train tracks to reach Ikusabata Station on the JR Ome Line.

GETTING THERE Take the JR Ome Line from Tachikawa to Mitake Station. Stop by the tourist office and pick up some hiking maps. Turn left at the traffic lights. Walk up a set of stairs and follow the signs. The trailhead is located just north of the train tracks on the left-hand side of a building.

HIKING ROUTE Time: 4 hrs. 25 min. / Distance: 8.8 km.

Iwadakeishi Trailhead — Mt. Sougaku (2 hrs.) — Mt. Iwadakeishi (40 min.) — Mt. Takamizu (35 min.) — Takamizu Trailhead (45 min.) — Ikusabata Station (25 min.)

The above times are estimated hiking times that will vary depending on trail conditions and fitness level.

Remember to add in additional time (at least an hour) for your outdoor kitchen lunch!

Visit www.outdoorjapan.com for the extended online story that includes trail recipes and cooking essentials.

Spring 2020 | 19

PARADISE FOUND IN NO MAN'S LAND

BY RIE MIYOSHI

Imagine starting your day from cold, gray Takeshiba Port, then waking up to a glowing sunrise and seabirds calling out in the remote Bonin Islands.

20 | TRAVELER

Photo by Ogasawara Village Tourism Bureau

T

he Bonin archipelago, also known as Ogasawara Shoto, is arguably Japan’s bestkept secret. Located on a similar latitude as Okinawa, the islands boast a comfortable, subtropical climate year round. Because the volcanic archipelago has never been connected to any large land mass—not even the Japanese mainland—the islands are home to a variety of native flora and fauna found nowhere else.

After being added as a World Natural Heritage Site in 2011, the Bonin Islands received global attention. However, awareness is low and visits by the public are rare, partly due to its limited access.

The recently upgraded ferry, Ogasawara-Maru, carries up to 800 passengers and departs from Tokyo only once or twice a week depending on the season.

In 2018, just over 300 foreign travelers visited the Bonin Islands.

Fewer visitors mean untouched nature you can experience upon arrival. Even before you reach the

islands, it’s not unusual to see humpback whales and spinner dolphins from the ferry. At dusk, Bonin flying foxes (a type of fruit bat) glide from tree to tree, looking for fresh passionfruit to plunder. Reef sharks, rays, sea turtles and tropical fish languorously loiter around the harbor at night while shooting stars streak the sky above. According to Hokkaido University’s School of Fisheries Sciences, the Bonin Islands boast the highest water and night sky clarity in the Pacific Ocean. Bonin Islands is simply heaven for nature enthusiasts.

But the islands aren’t just white sandy beaches and dolphins. What makes the Bonin Islands truly unique is its mixed-pot culture usually glossed over in history books. In fact, most of what happened in the Pacific during World War II was dismissed to make way for peace treaties and plans for restructuring. To fully appreciate the Bonin Islands, we have to look to its storied past.

Spring 2020 | 21

Photo by Ogasawara Village Tourism Bureau

22 | TRAVELER

from the mainland and other outer islands started moving in, creating a mixed community of American, Japanese, Micronesian and Polynesian people.

During World War II, the Japanese ar my took over the Bonin Islands and the infamous Iwo Jima. All island residents were evacuated and relocated to the mainland while some of the fiercest battles occurred. Most of the Pacific “Flyboys,” the nickname for U.S. airmen and pilots, fought here including George Bush Sr. whose plane was shot down over Chichijima. Luckily for him, he landed in the ocean and was rescued by a U.S. submarine. His fellow Flyboys, who landed closer to shore, were not so fortunate.

When the war ended in 1945, the Bonin Islands were taken over by the U.S. As for the pre-war inhabitants, only residents who descended from the original settlers—including Savory— w e re a l l o w e d t o l i v e h e re a g a i n .

For over two decades, everyone on Chichijima spoke English, the fourth of July was a day of beach barbeques and the island remained peaceful.

In 1968, the islands were returned to Japan. Overnight, the education system changed. Children who grew up speaking English suddenly had to

return to elementary levels to learn Japanese. Teenagers who had a difficult time learning a new language relocated to Guam for high school and eventually m o v e d t o t h e U . S . Te a c h e r s a n d businesspeople were sent over from the Japanese mainland to set up villages, schools and facilities both in Chichijima and the neighboring Hahajima. Today the Bonin Islands are part of Tokyo: cars have Shinagawa license plates, addresses are written as “Tokyo-to, Ogasawara-mura” and everyone speaks Japanese. Even family names like Savory have been modified to “Sebori” with Japanese characters.

Photo by Ogasawara Village Tourism Bureau

NO MAN'S LAND The name “Bonin” is said to have come from the Japanese word munin, literally meaning no man. The first recorded discovery of the Bonin Islands was in the 16th century: first by the Spanish and then the Japanese in 1727. Although the Japanese briefly declared the uninhabited islands as their own (hence the name Ogasawara by the shogunate who claimed to have discovered them—to this day, this claim is questionable), no plans were made to develop these islands. The islands remained uninhabited and were called mujintou (uninhabited islands).

Meanwhile, the United States were experiencing the Industrial Revolution with their newfound discoveries, one of them being whale oil. To the Americans, the Pacific meant oil. Opportunity seekers, including 20-year-old Nathaniel Savory from Massachusetts, packed their bags and sailed west to the rich whaling grounds of Japan. Although most set up base in Hawai‘i, Savory realized a need to establish outposts even closer to Japan. Whalers whispered hints of a tiny, uninhabited paradise with natural springs. In the true spirit of entrepreneurism, Savory along with 22 other men and women sailed 3,000 miles and built themselves a new home on Chichijima, the largest of the thirty Bonin Islands.

In 1853, Savory was surprised by an American steamship rolling into town.

Commodore Matthew Perry was on his way to open Japan up to the Western world and the Bonin Islands were the perfect spot for a coal depot so the ships could fuel up and continue their journey to Asia. As no nation had exerted authority on the islands, Perry anointed Chichjima as a Pacific outpost for American power and appointed Savory as an agent of the U.S. navy.

Nine years later, a ship wielding Japan’s imperial flag sailed in and claimed the Bonin Islands back. Japanese people

Photo by Ogasawara Village Tourism Bureau

Photo by Ogasawara Village Tourism Bureau

THE ISLANDERS Despite the island’s tumultuous past, the 2,000 locals of Chichijima and Hahajima (translated as Father and Mother islands) remain open, especially to newcomers tired of city life. Unlike mainland Japan, which remains mostly homogeneous, the faces you see here reflect the island’s genetically rich history although most locals speak only Japanese.

Most of those who still speak English and retain distinctly Western or Polynesian features are over the age of 60. One of them is Rocky Sebori, fifthgeneration descendant of Nathaniel Savory. He runs the island’s main supermarket and his family business producing honey.

“I’m an islander,” says Rocky Sebori, when asked how he identifies himself.

“When I was growing up, there were just a little over 120 people on the island. Everyone knew each other. We didn’t have a lot here, so it was hard to do things by yourself—but all of us islanders came together to help.”

Born and raised in Chichijima, Rocky was still in elementary school when the islands were returned to Japan.

His bilingual skills took him all over the world but eventually he returned to the

Bonin Islands to raise his family the island way. A quick sweep around the town shows that most of the residents here are in their 20s to late 40s, a contrast to the aging population on the mainland.

“It’s a good place to live, that’s why you see a lot of young people and families here too,” says Rocky. “There’s no crime— if you do something bad here, there’s nowhere to run unless you want to swim a bit,” he jokes. Living on the island comes with its disadvantages though as assisted living options are limited and emergency medical care is at least 11 hours away.

Just down the road from his bee farm is the modernist Pat Inn run by Rocky’s nephew, 37-year-old Sho Sebori. Like Rocky, Sho is from Chichijima and moved to the mainland to work as a “salaryman” but returned to build this boutique bed and breakfast on his family’s land with his mother and brother. While marine activities are the biggest attractions here, Sho also organizes historical and night tours around the island to educate visitors.

“People move or pass away, and if we don’t work together to preserve

our culture, then it’ll soon be gone,” says Sho. “What I love about our island is how among this amazing nature backdrop you find a lot of different people from different backgrounds coming together peacefully. You can’t really find that elsewhere, and I hope people from outside can come see that.”

Spring 2020 | 23

Photo by Ogasawara Village Tourism Bureau

ECOTOURISM HAVEN The Bonin Islands used to have an unpopular tradition of whale and sea turtle hunting, but these practices are heavily regulated today to make way for conservation practices. Travelers can participate in education programs for sea turtle conservation at the Ogasawara Marine Center, a tenminute drive from the Chichijima’s main port. Here, you’ll have the rare opportunity to clean baby sea turtles and feed them while learning about how the center takes in and rehabilitates ill or injured sea turtles (¥3,300 for a three-hour program; proceeds go towards the Ogasawara Marine Center).

Chichijima is considered Japan’s largest breeding ground for green sea turtles; the center also raises young turtles from eggs through to their release into the wild. Turtles lay eggs from May to August and the eggs hatch from around July to October. (Website in Japanese only: https://bonin-ocean.net) In winter, humpback whales steal the spotlight. Between January and April humpback whales move southward from northern seas to breed. Whale watching tours are usually combined with thrilling dolphin swims and leisurely snorkeling, but even if you don’t want to get in the water, you can look for spinner and bottlenose dolphins, short-finned pilot whales and sperm whales.

A two-hour ferry ride from Chichijima is the even-sleepier Hahajima. While

24 | TRAVELER

Chichijima was taken over by the U.S., Hahajima was uninhabited for nearly two decades and has a more Japanese countryside vibe to it. The highest mountain, Mt. Chibusa (literally meaning Mt. Nipple), features indigenous plants and animals only found on Hahajima including the whiteeyed Bonin honeyeater bird and the still-evolving terrestrial snail. Over three-quarters of the island is covered with subtropical rainforest, some such as the sekimon forest, a field of uplifted karst, which can only be accessed with a certified guide All around the island you’ll find remnants of the war, including dugout caves, mossy artillery and hollowed-out plots of land where bombs landed. To protect the natural environment, camping and offtrail hiking are strictly prohibited and visitors must wipe their shoes before disembarking the ferry.

The Bonin Islands stay around 17 to 28 degrees Celsius throughout the year so pack your snorkel and fins (wetsuit needed in winter) as there are plenty of great spots to explore. From Chichijima, Anijima Island Marine Park and Minamijma are world-class snorkel spots and can only be accessed with a guide. In Hahajima, Kita Port in the north and the coral reefs of the southern Minami-zaki are recommended (be careful of strong offshore currents). A few tiger sharks have been said to roam the Wakihama Nagisa Park near the port, but for the most part the waters remain safe and ready to be explored.

Photo by Ogasawara Village Tourism Bureau

GETTING THERE Ferries depart once or twice a week from Takeshiba Port, Tokyo and cost around ¥23,000 (one way). Check the Ogasawara Kaiun Ferry website for departure and return dates and times. Online booking purchase is available. To get to Hahajima, you will need to purchase a separate ticket. Fares change each month but usually cost about ¥4,000 one way. There are around 60 hotels and inns in Ogasawara, mainly located around Omura near Futami Port and Oki Port in Hahajima. www.ogasawarakaiun.co.jp/english The Ogamaru Package reserves ferry tickets and accommodation. The package also comes with optional Chichijima tours and coupons you can use on the islands. Booking available by phone only at (0334) 51-5171.

Most dining options at Chichijima and Hahajima are centered around the port. Tours and accommodation usually provide shuttle pick ups but you may want to rent a car before your trip to access beaches and lookout points.

Ogasawara Seibi (Chichijima) (0499) 82-2626 Sasamoku Rental Cars (Chichijima) (0499) 82-2987 Ogasawara Service Rental Car (Hahajima) (0499) 83-7030 Ogasawara Village Tourist Association 5-min. walk from Futami Port at Chichijima (0499) 82-2587 Ogasawara Hahajima Tourism Association Oki Port at Hahajima (0499) 83-2300 English-speaking staff are available at the islands’ respective tourism information centers. Be sure to inquire about whale watching information and hiking, beach and snorkeling access (some areas may only be entered with a guide). 

Spring 2020 | 25

CYCLING MOUNTAINS TO RIVERS IN

SHIKOKU

The mountains of Shikoku Island are a place of spirituality and vast wilderness. The Ishizuchi Mountains extend about 60 kilometers from east to west in western Shikoku, bordering Ehime and Kochi prefectures. The 1,982-meter Mt. Ishizuchi is the tallest mountain in western Japan and its four shrines are sacred points for outdoor enthusiasts seeking a spiritual experience.

T

he steep terrain makes for a challenging but rewarding ride for fit cyclists. Public transportation is limited here, so the best way to fully immerse yourself into Shikoku culture is by cycling the Japan Eco Track. Access from Tokyo or Osaka is easiest by flying to Matsuyama Airport in Ehime (1.5 hours from Tokyo and 50 minutes from Osaka). Take a bus to Matsuyama Station (25 minutes) then take an hour-long train to Iyo-Saijo Station or drive 45 minutes from Matsuyama IC to the Ishizuchi region.

SCENIC SKY RIDE ROUTE This 156.4 kilometer route starts and ends at Michi no Eki Konoka, a roadside station with an open-air onsen.. It takes approximately 12.5 onsen hours to circumnavigate this route.

The first four-and-a-half hours involve some serious uphill pedaling along the UFO Line which follows the ridgeline.

From here you can see the jagged peak of Mt. Ishizuchi and even the Pacific Ocean on clear days. Af ter taking in the bird’s eye views, enjoy a leisurely ride down following the flow of Omogo River which flows down Mt. Ishizuchi and becomes Niyodo River as it enters Ehime. Refresh yourself at Kinen Waterfall and rest at Fureai no Sato Yanagino, a store selling local produc t s. Loc ated agains t a r ur al backdrop, this quaint store ser ves udon and soba milled by a waterwheelpowered mill. Brace yourself for a final uphill stretch to Michi no Eki Konoka, or make your way to Sameura Dam.

26 | TRAVELER

Mt. Ishizuchi

SAMUERA DAM MOUNTAIN ROUTE While the Scenic Sky Ride Route features the best of Shikoku’s mountains, this intermediate route is centered around water, specifically Sameura Dam. This dam is the source of the clear Yoshino River, considered one of Japan’s three great rivers. It takes a little less than seven hours to circumnavigate this hilly route which p as s e s t hro ug h t r aditio nal fore s t villages and the two-tiered Kogane Falls, the tallest waterfall in Shikoku.

Alter natively you could star t from Montbell Outdoor Village Motoyama located near the dam which features comfortable cottages, restaurants and hot bath facilities. If you’re wanting to try other outdoor activities, inquire about canyoning, a popular activity at Omogokei Gorge. There are also r i ve r s i d e b ar b e q u e a n d c a m p i ng spots.

ABOUT JAPAN ECO TRACK

Montbell—Japan’s largest homegrown outdoor brand—started a series of events in 2009 called Sea to Summit. The goal was to invigorate local areas, holding events to experience nature through canoeing, cycling, trekking and other means of human-powered movement. While these events continue to be held in beautiful areas around Japan, the natural progression was to provide information and guides so travelers could experience these areas throughout the year at their own pace while learning the history and culture of the region and interacting with locals.

Japan Eco Track guides contain maps with designated routes of varying difficulty levels. Each guide includes information on local restaurants, guides, tour operations and other attractions. Along Japan Eco Track routes there are support stations located at affiliated stores and major transportation hubs such as train stations, airports and Michi no Eki (rest areas). Discounts and special offers are available at participating locations when travelers show the Japan Eco Track booklet. There are more than 15 guides, with new areas being developed and offered in English.

For more information, visit www.japanecotrack.net. 

Spring 2020 | 27

Travel &Adventure DIRECTORY

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0278-72-2811 www.canyons.jp

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Travel &Adventure DIRECTORY

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Travel &Adventure DIRECTORY

CELEBRATING HUMAN POWER AND INTRODUCING THE QUIET BACKSTREETS, BEAUTIFUL PARKS AND UNIQUE CULTURE OF TOKYO NOT FOUND ON TOURIST MAPS.

freewheeling.jp 30 | TRAVELER