Outdoor Japan Traveler | Issue 77 | Winter 2021

ISSUE 77

WINTER 2021

PACIFIC SOLO

The Healing Forests of Shinano-machi A Fishing Foray to the New Kesennuma Minami Izu Lobsters JAPAN SNOW GUIDE 2021 Ski Resort News & Notes

Autumn 2020 | 1

2 | TRAVELER

ISSUE 77

19

JAPAN SNOW GUIDE INSIDE

8

10

13

16

Minami Izu Lobsters

Pacific Solo

From the Editor. . . . . . . . 5 Market Watch. . . . . . . . . . 6

PHOTO: RUSUTSU RESORT

WINTER 2021

A Fishing Foray to the New Kesennuma

The Healing Forests of Shinano-machi

Winter News & Events . 33

Winter 2021 | 3

4 | TRAVELER

F r om t h eEdi t o r

Published Seasonally

W

e have all looked forward to leaving 2020 behind us. The anticipation of a new start has brought with it some much needed hope for travelers and residents of Japan.

2021 no doubt also brings questions and challenges, but like the meters of fresh snow that are falling in the mountains this winter, there is a fresh dose of optimism and hope that we can ride into the months ahead.

Hope and challenges are fitting words to describe the life and work of Lowell Sheppard.

My relationship with Lowell goes back more than twenty years in Japan. We shared a unique connection through an organization called Hope International. Nine days before I was born, a brutal dictator named Idi Amin declared himself the president of Uganda. He became known as the “Butcher of Uganda” and toward the end of his reign my family sponsored a young man through Hope International, who had escaped Uganda by literally running for his life to neighboring Kenya. He attended Lewis & Clark College in Oregon and lived with our family off and on during these years. I attended many Africa nights at the college, learning a lot about the history and culture of this great continent. He was the best soccer player I had ever seen and he ran circles around the team at this small liberal arts school.

Lowell became the Asia Pacific Director for Hope International in Japan the same year we launched Outdoor Japan. Over the years we’ve promoted his annual Hope Galas, and covered his adventures such as cycling the length of Japan. This year he embarks on the most ambitious project of his life: a solo journey across the Pacific Ocean—through the great garbage patch—to spotlight the environmental consequences of microplastics and to reach his homeland to see his mother before dementia steals her memory of him. You can follow Lowell’s journey on his Pacific Solo YouTube and social media pages and Outdoor Japan will be posting updates as well. There are also some great ways companies can get involved with Pacific Solo and support this epic adventure.

Water is the main theme of this issue and Abdel Ibrahim (longtime Japan Angler contributor) is back to share his fishing trip to Tohoku. He traveled to Kessenuma, an area ravaged by the earthquake and tsunami in 2011, which has recreated itself into a thriving tourist destination and a great base for some Pacific fishing adventures.

Bill Ross reports from Shinano-machi, an area in northern Nagano blessed with healthy forests and rivers, in no small part because of its most famous foreign resident, C.W. Nicol, who passed away last spring and left a legacy in the form of the Afan Woodland Trust. Shinano-machi has been at the center of the Forest Therapy movement as well and Bill talks to local guides about this relaxing and healing experience as well as some great winter and spring activities, such as snowshoeing and exploring the pristine waters of Lake Nojiri.

PUBLISHER Outdoor Japan G.K. DIRECTORS Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Gardner Robinson MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR Rie Miyoshi CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Bill Ross CONTRIBUTORS Joan Bailey, Abdel Ibrahim, Bill Ross DESIGN Outdoor Japan

OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. 45 Yubiso, Minakami-machi, Tone-gun, Gunma-ken 〒 379-1728 EDITORIAL INQUIRIES editor@outdoorjapan.com

The frozen variety of water is our main highlight every winter issue, and while this year has been one of the most challenging seasons for skiers and snowboarders due to travel restrictions, C.W. Nicol thumbs through Mother Nature has turned on the taps for one of the best snow a n i s s u e o f T r a v e l e r seasons in the last decade. If you are able to travel there are magazine. (Photo by Peter some incredible deals and uncrowded ski slopes to visit for Nierenberg) Japan residents. Many areas are offering some great long-term stays for people able to work remotely. The record snowfall brings hope for a long season with some resorts open as late as Golden Week, so have those skis and boards waxed and at the ready and check out our annual Japan Snow Guide for resort destinations and deals.

In my little village I’m grateful to see so many people traveling responsibly and looking out for each other in restaurants and at the ski resort. There is a lot to be hopeful for in 2021 and we wish all of our readers health and happiness and more travel and adventure in everyone’s future.

VIDEO / MEDIA PRODUCTION media@outdoorjapan.com SPONSORSHIP / PROMOTIONS media@outdoorjapan.com DESTINATION MARKETING media@outdoorjapan.com

www.facebook/japantraveler

www.twitter.com/outdoorjapan www.youtube.com/outdoorjapan www.instagram.com/outdoorjapan

—Gardner Robinson Editor-in-Chief

AIRLINE PARTNERS Traveler magazine is available at selected lounges, reservations counters and in-flight libraries with the following airline partners.

トラベラーマガジンは、空港ラウンジや予約カウンターや、右記航空会社インフライト・ライブラリーにてお読みいただけます。

©2021 OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Views expressed herein are not necessarily those of OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. Printed in Japan.

Cover Photo: Rie Miyoshi

Winter 2021 | 5

MARKET WATCH

BY JOAN BAILEY

Japanese Winter Veggies

W

hile the winter season often sees farmers putting away their tools and heading inside to start planning for the new year, in Japan, especially south of the Tohoku Region, it is when some of the tastiest items arrive. Daikon, kabu, komatsuna, Chinese cabbage and spinach are a few of the more popular winter vegetables to be had, but farmers also roll out a bevy of others that are just as tasty, but perhaps less well known such as karashina and wasabina.

While some, like daikon, can be found year-round, winter is when they really shine. Each possesses a particular hardiness in this season of cold, frosty nights, bright sunny days and long stints without rain. Cold temperatures cause these plants to produce more sugar in an effort to protect themselves from freezing.

Water gets shunted to their roots resulting in a greater concentration of sugars in the leaves. The result is not just vivid colors but quite literally, a sweet addition to the winter menu.

KOMATSUNA Named after Komatsugawa on Tokyo’s far west side, this veggie gained fame when served to Tokigawa Yoshimune—the eighth shogun—for lunch in 1719. It has since become a year-round staple of the Japanese table. Winter, though, finds it at its best in salads or added at the very end to any soup for a splash of emerald green.

WASABINA Another spicy leaf, wasabina takes its name from the famed root, wasabi.

An ovalish green leaf with a serrated edge, wasabina packs a gentle punch that lifts any winter soup or salad out of the doldrums. Try it blanched for a zingy ohitashi side dish, too.

6 | TRAVELER

KARASHINA This lesser-known leafy vegetable can be found in vivid green and deep burgundy. Its fronds are feathery or serrated with a nutty and slightly spicy taste. Perfect in hot or cold salads, traditional varieties are thicker lobed like kale and in a pinch work as a decent substitute in soups or stirfrys.

DAIKON The long torpedo-shaped white radish oft found in supermarkets is but one of a multitude of daikon available. Red, purple and green varieties can be found this time of year along with a black-skinned variety that is as visually stunning as it is delicious.

Serve pickled, raw, or in homemade oden for some colorful and tasty fare.

WHERE TO FIND THEM • Bugrass Farmers for greens, assorted daikon, plus a variety of other seasonal delights. Web: www.bugrassfarmers.jp • MomoG Farm for those amazing black radish and delightful greens as well as popcorn. Web: https://www.facebook. com/profile.php?id=100014064461807 • Natural Farm TOM for seasonal root vegetables and an assortment of greens.

Email: unoka0506@icloud.com • Ome Farm for kale, karashina, arugula, a n d a n a s s o r t m e n t o f ro o t c ro p s including beets. Web: www.omefarm.jp

Winter 2021 | 7

Minami IzuLobster s

BY RIE MIYOSHI

T

he sleepy fishing port of Nakagi is liveliest right before dawn breaks, as local fishermen set out on their boats to see how many Iseebi their nets have caught overnight. For years, local fishermen have relied heavily on the famed Ise-ebi, or Japanese spiny lobster. Ise-ebi fishing is limited to September to April, and during the first to third quarter of the lunar phase when the night skies are darker. The nocturnal Ise-ebi like to move in the dark.

Nakagi is at the southern tip of the Izu Peninsula.

It is a popular destination for snorkeling and sea kayaking in summer, but otherwise relatively quiet.

Winter attracts local travelers who want to ring in the new year feasting on Ise-ebi, which is part of osechi ryori (traditional Japanese New Year food).

The bright red Ise-ebi symbolize longevity, as they have a relatively long lifespan and trailing “whiskers.”

A kilogram of Minami Izu’s Ise-ebi is about ¥7,500.

Local minshuku and hotels usually serve Ise-ebi as part of their dinner during the harvest.

The Kuroshio is the world’s second-strongest current. It flows off the coast of Japan’s Pacific coastline resulting in a year-round subtropical climate and warm, clear water rich with nutrients.

The Ise-ebi thrives in these shallow tropical waters.

Like many small towns in Japan, Minami Izu’s population is declining, decreasing by about 100 people every year. The local fishermen work in pairs to keep their trade alive, setting out to sea at sunset to cast gill nets then pulling them in early morning before the sun rises. After that, they work together to remove the lobsters (and other critters caught in the nets) before shipping them off to customers or the fresh market, then warming up with a bowl of fresh lobster miso soup. They repair their nets in the off season, and in the case of Katsuyo Takano, take tourists to Hirizo Beach, a popular snorkeling spot that can only be accessed by ferry.

8 | TRAVELER

“A long time ago, we had 20 fishermen here but it’s down to eight,” says Takano, who was born and raised here. “I started lobster fishing seven or eight years ago—I was already working on a boat and wanted to come back to fish somewhere closer to home.”

Iro Shrine, built precariously on the side of a cliff at Cape Irozaki, is evidence that the ocean has shaped Minami Izu’s history, livelihood and culture.

This unique wooden shrine is built on a ship mast said to have washed up to a particular spot on the cliff in A.D. 701 and gotten stuck there. The current main shrine was built over it in 1901 and remains supported by this mast.

“This shrine was built for people to pray for protection while out at sea, and also to be thankful for food and blessings from the ocean,” says local priest Takahiro Ozawa. The shrine has become a tourist spot as it offers some of the best views of the ocean and Minami Izu’s rugged coastline.

GETTING THERE The best way to get to Minami Izu is the train to Izukyu-Shimoda Station on the JR Ito Line. You can also travel in style on the JR Odoriko Limited Express Train direct from Tokyo, Shinagawa, Kawasaki and Yokohama stations.

Minami Izu has no trains and limited bus service.

From Izukyu-Shimoda Station, you may want to rent a car to explore the area at your own pace. You can also take the Tokai Bus from the station, which takes 20 minutes to central Minami Izu. Unless you’re staying at a local inn or hotel, dining options, convenience stores and supermarkets are extremely limited so be sure to plan ahead or bring along food and snacks.

PAID PUBLICITY

HIGHLIGHTS MINAMI IZU CHERRY BLOSSOMS Minami Izu town central is built around the Aono River, which flows into the Pacific Ocean. This river is lined with Kawazu-zakura, a special type of cherry tree that blooms in mid-February. The blossoms are characterized by their darker, more vivid color compared to the more common Somei-Yoshino. They generally stay in bloom for about a month; the warm coastal climate allows them to thrive. Nanohana (rapeseed) flowers also bloom around this time. It can be chilly when the sun's not out, so warm up in the towns’ many hot springs such as Gin-no-Yu Onsen. Be sure to try the onsen melon, grown in greenhouses powered by heat from the hot springs.

IROZAKI OCEAN PARK Cape Irozaki is the southernmost point of the Izu Peninsula. Walk down to the tip of the cape for stellar views of the ocean. You’ll pass by Irozaki Lighthouse, built during the Meiji Era that has been in continuous use since the 1870s. It opened to the public in 2019. Iro Shrine sits on the cliff further down the path. There’s also a visitor center and cafeteria back at the parking lot. Buses run from Izukyu-Shimoda Station to Cape Irozaki (40 minutes).

Visit www.irou-ocean.or.jp.

HAGACHIZAKI MONKEY BAY

Getting to this natural outdoor park is an adventure as you drive (or walk) down a steep, zigzag road. The views of the valley opening up to the ocean are spectacular, but the main attraction is a troop of around 300 Japanese macaques who congregate at the rocky beach at the base of the valley. Depending on the time you visit, these wild monkeys will be feeding at the park (usually in the morning or evening). There’s a visitor center where you can safely feed the monkeys. If you don’t see any, they’re probably back in the surrounding forests. Hagachizaki Monkey Bay is located on the west coast of Minami Izu and a 30-minute drive from Minami Izu Town. Admission is ¥1,200 for adults and ¥600 for children. Visit www.monkeybay.jp.

MIKOMOTO ISLAND Mikomoto Hammers offer a rare opportunity to dive with hammerhead sharks around the uninhabited Mikomoto Island ten kilometers southeast of the peninsula. Although the best time to see the sharks is from July to October, they are around during other times of the year. The water temperature ranges between 16-20 degrees in October to December and April to June, and 20 to 25 degrees July to September.

As the Kuroshio Current flows near this island, divers will be required to drift drive and have at least 30 certified dives prior to the dive.

HIRIZO BEACH

Hirizo Beach is a five-minute boat ride from Nakagi Port and can only be accessed by ferry. It costs ¥2,000 for a day pass. This is a rocky beach surrounded by cliffs and a small island, and its azure waters offer some of the best snorkeling and visibility on mainland Japan. The beach is only open during the summer months, but be sure to call ahead as ferries sometimes cannot operate during typhoon season.

You can also view the beach from Cape Aiai.

YUMIGAHAMA BEACH This beach is said to be one Japan’s 100 top beaches for its white sand and clean waters. The kilometer-long coast is lined with pine trees and protected by two capes on both ends that blocks waves and makes it a family-friendly swimming spot. In June to July, sea turtles come to the beach to lay eggs.

The beachside Kyukamura MinamiIzu Hotel is a popular place to stay as guests can enjoy fresh local seafood such as Ise-ebi and soak in natural hot springs. Visit www.qkamura.or.jp/en/ izu. v

Winter 2021 | 9

A FISHING FORAY TO THE NEW KESENNUMA

BY ABDEL IBRAHIM

Communities along the Sanriku Coast, such as Kesennuma in Miyagi Prefecture, took a direct hit from the March 11, 2011 tsunami. There was an enormous show of aid and support from around the country and the world in the immediate aftermath of the disaster. The influx of volunteers and recovery experts to the region was so overwhelming at one point the government implored folks to simply send donations rather than going to help. Nearly ten years later, Kesennuma is hoping to attract visitors once again and create a first-rate tourist destination.

10 | TRAVELER

T

he first thing anyone coming from one of the larger metropolitan areas of Japan notices when arriving to Kesennuma is the quiet and stillness of the town. For the majority of the short taxi ride to the port it appears as if nothing ever happened here, yet there is a distinct point where the architectural landscape suddenly shifts from the drab offwhite concrete edifices of sleepy store fronts and two-story office buildings constructed decades ago to a sleek, modern and new port of Kesennuma that has emerged from the rubble left in the wake of the tsunami. Here the reshaped structures showcase the hope, hospitality and uniqueness the town has to offer.

Lifelong Kesennuma resident, jazz aficionado, and volunteer tour guide Eiichi Kato, or “Eddie" as he likes to be called, could probably write a book based on his experience being right at the center of the disaster zone when the tsunami hit. In a presentation he gives to domestic and foreign visitors at the portside tourism center, he describes in vivid detail the events of that day, the immediate aftermath and what it was like living in the recovery zone in the weeks and months that followed. As the owner of a hotel located next to the port but situated above the tsunami inundation zone, Eddie found himself looking after 150 severely traumatized evacuees nonstop for several weeks a m o n g s t a s u r ro u n d i n g s c e n e o f burning stench, death and devastation he says can only described as hell on earth.

As trying as the experience was for Eddie, his family and fellow citizens, in true Japanese fashion they endured, persevered and rebuilt until some semblance of stability, and a sense of a new normal, had returned to the town. Through his efforts and countless interactions with people from whom he received an outpouring of generosity and support, he came to embrace an enduring sense of optimism, gratitude and belief in the potential of humanity.

Prior to the disaster, Kesennuma’s p r i m a r y i n d u s t r y w a s c o m m e rc i a l fishing. A glance at the numerous medium to long-range squid and tuna vessels moving in and out of port is all it takes to understand it is still the soul of the town’s economy, yet according to Eddie and others, commercial fishing is slowly being eclipsed by a wide variety of leisure and recreational seaside tourism activities, like hiking, cycling, diving, paddle boarding, and of course, sport fishing.

As is with coastal fishing around the world, there are peak seasons for various species, but one year round target that attracts anglers throughout Japan is rockfish, such as ainame (hexagrammos otakii)— a type of greenling known to grow bigger and feed more aggressively in these waters than anywhere else.

All it takes is a short fifteenminute boat ride past the shellfish farms dotting the coastline to reach pristine waters teeming with a healthy food chain, near the top of which are lots of often finicky yet hungry ainame ready to pounce on properly presented bait.

L i k e o t h e r t y p e s of i n s h o re coastal fishing it’s best to toss a line during an outgoing tide when the fish are most active. Readers familiar with flipping Texas-rigged soft plastics for black bass or fishing for coastal ground fish like red drum or Calico bass will be right at home with the tackle and how to present the bait to the fish. Simply cast, let your lure hit the bottom and retrieve in a slow lift and fall motion while maintaining steady tension in the line.

The reels used for this kind of fishing are spooled with sensitive PE 0.8 to 1.2 braid line and paired with fast taper rods that allow the angler to feel every subtle bump as the sometimes skittish ainame will often nip at any lures that enter their strike zone before committing to the eat. It’s the kind of fishing that offers a perfect balance of challenge and excitement in that it requires anglers to stay sharp and bring their finesse game, but typically results in plenty of solid hook ups.

Readers interested in tossing a line at some hungry ainame, as well as a variety of rockfish and other species, can contact Capt. Masato Onodera who runs charters for clients from around Japan every weekend. He specializes in rockfish year around, but can also take clients offshore when the pelagics are biting good. Visit www.onodera. jimdofree.com If you love sashimi, Kesennuma ought to be high on your “go-to” list.

The major fishing port features some of the freshest and highest quality fish, particularly pelagic species like katsuo (skipjack tuna), sanma (saury), mekajiki (swordfish) and sayori (halfbeak). These

Winter 2021 | 11

are typically loaded with fat as they are taken in the colder waters off the Tohoku coast. Local restaurants and izakaya also serve a variety of rockfish and bottom fish taken from inshore waters—including ainame that are hard to come across at even highend sushi restaurants in Tokyo. Shellfish connoisseurs would be hard pressed to find a better place to enjoy oysters, scallops, uni (sea urchin) and hoya (sea squirt) when they are in season. Best of all, it’s noticeably less expensive than what seafood at this level would set you back in the big city.

A good place to drop by in the morning for a traditional fisherman’s breakfast you won’t soon forget is Tsurukame Shokudo located just south of the port: www.kesennuma-tsurukame.com/ canteen.

GETTING THERE Getting to Kesennuma and the rest of Tohoku has been made a lot easier by the JR East Welcome Rail Pass 2020. The special campaign for foreign residents and overseas visitors offers a three-day norihoudai (unlimited travel) ticket for just ¥12,000.

This pass, which can be purchased online through the end of February at www.eastjapanrailway. com/pass/wrp.html, allows travelers to use both local trains and reserved seats on shinkansen. It’s certain to be a hit among Tokyo’s ski and snowboard enthusiasts traveling to snowy northern resorts, but it also allows winter travelers to explore Kesennuma and other small towns for some delicious food and genuine Tohoku hospitality. v

12 | TRAVELER

Pacific Solo

AN INTERVIEW WITH LOWELL SHEPPARD WITH RIE MIYOSHI

Preacher-turned-adventurer Lowell Sheppard is preparing for the adventure of his life: a solo journey across the Pacific, from Tokyo to Vancouver, Canada. It will take two to three months, passing through the most remote point in the north Pacific and the great Garbage Patch. He aims to complete the voyage before he turns 70. Outdoor Japan jumped aboard Sheppard’s boat moored in Yumenoshima Marina, and cruised Tokyo Bay for a few hours to learn more.

Winter 2021 | 13

Rie Miyoshi: What is Pacific Solo in a nutshell?

Lowell Sheppard: Pacific Solo is my answer to a dream I’ve always had of sailing and living on a boat. I’ll be sailing from Tokyo to Vancouver through the middle of the North Pacific Ocean.

I’ll be visiting Nemo North, witnessing the Garbage Patch and finally seeing my mother in Vancouver before she forgets who I am.

RM: What inspired this solo journey?

LS: There are a few different reasons.

First, I wanted another breathtaking challenge. I’ve done a lot of cycling in Japan, but nothing compares to the first challenge where I cycled the length of Japan during cherry blossom season. I was writing for a publisher at that time and they sponsored me to go on this trip. It was transformative, even spiritual.

I’ve always dreamed of sailing and had some experience back in Canada, but I gave it up when I came to Japan because it’s so expensive. But three years ago, I found Tokyo Sail and Power Squadron where I could get my skipper’s license in English. It opened up a whole new world for me and I decided my next challenge would be on a boat. And then it came to me: I would sail from here to Canada to visit my mom.

RM: Are you close to her?

LS: Unfortunately she has dementia but she still remembers who I am, and I’d like her to see me arrive by boat.

The pandemic changed everything for everyone. Rather than waiting too long for flight restrictions to ease, I thought, “Well, I’ve got a boat, and I want to see my mom.”

But I realized this trip wasn’t just about wanting to sail from Japan to Canada. It was also about wanting to go to the most remote place I could get to from land—through Nemo North.

14 | TRAVELER

RM: Where’s Nemo North?

LS: In the southern Pacific Ocean there is a Point Nemo, the furthest point away from land in any direction. Sailors say Point Nemo is an intriguing place: comparatively lifeless as it is so far away from river runoffs. There are 250 burials of spacecraft debris—they’re dropped off there as it won’t affect much life there. Nemo North is the name I gave to the north Pacific Ocean equivalent of Point Nemo.

Immanuel Kant said that nothing evokes more reverence and awe than looking up and within. At Nemo North, the most remote place in the north Pacific, I want to consider the expanse above, the mysteries within and terrors below. I want a moment of solitude to seek God and ponder profound questions.

RM: You talk a lot about spirituality.

Could you expand on that?

LS: Actually back in Canada, I went to seminary school and am an ordained minister. My parents were ministers too.

My wife and I were childhood friends because our parents went to the same church. She was born in Nagoya and spent time in Japan and Canada as her parents were missionaries to Japan.

When we got married, we had a deal: I wanted to live in England, and she wanted to raise her kids in Japan.

After 13 years in England, she said, “It’s my turn.” That’s how we ended up in Japan, where I worked as an environmentalist providing clean water to communities in need for the past 24 years. I guess you can say that’s why I’ve been concerned about water.

RM: Is there an environmental aspect to Pacific Solo?

LS: Yes, that’s another major reason for this trip. I’m working with schools to collect water samples and conduct experiments on behalf of students. I’m also helping an NGO in Scotland join the “Great Nurdle Hunt.”

RM: Nurdle?

LS: Nurdles are the building blocks for plastic; they’re kind of cute, like M&Ms. They get shipped all over the world to factories, but a quarter of a million tons of nurdles end up in the ocean every year. The NGO I’m working with is trying to track where the nurdles are so they can legally name nurdles as a pollutant.

California is the only government in the world that has legally classified nurdles as a pollutant, and it’s already helped petrol chemical companies be more attentive about shipping these raw materials.

Sheppard and his mother

Winter 2021 | 14

Pointing at Nemo North

We live in a plastic world. I am an idealist who leans into pragmatism, and I know the world is not going to stop using plastic overnight. So we have to produce the right kind of plastic and ensure raw materials are carefully managed.

RM: You mentioned visiting the Garbage Patch.

LS: There are two giant vortexes in the Pacific Ocean about the size of France or Texas. Garbage gets forever caught here, including debris from the 2011 tsunami. Apparently it’s known for fog and no wind.

And it’s not one big island of garbage, but bits of litter scattered all over. It’s more like plastic soup, because plastic doesn’t dissolve, just breaks down into tiny particles.

RM: How will you stay environmentally friendly on this journey?

LS: First of all, I’m sailing and not relying on diesel (although I will have 1,500 miles worth of fuel in case of an emergency). I’m also going solar to charge lithium batteries. Finally, I’ll be going as plastic free as possible.

RM: Sailing solo sounds exciting but also frightening. What are you most fearful of?

LS: Storms. I’ve had to learn to read the weather remotely and locally, and get the boat away from the danger zone. Another is falling overboard, so I’ll mitigate that by being tethered to the boat. I’m not naturally a loner so being alone is also a fear. I’ve sought counsel and input to prepare myself mentally.

There are a few things that have to be ready: the boat, myself, the academic groups I’m working with and sponsorships. I aim to be 80% ready in all areas by the end of January.

RM: When are you planning to depart?

LS: The only time you can leave Japan’s shores for the route I’m taking is June. The winds are blowing in the right direction, there are seven to ten days of good weather for me to get out of the typhoon zone, and it’s before typhoon season hits.

RM: Can you tell me about your boat?

LS: She’s a French-built Gypsy 402 that I call Wahine, which means woman in Hawaiian. There are only 85 of them in the world and were built between 1987 and 1991. I believe she spent all of her life in Japan and was originally based in Shimoda. Her last owner brought this boat to Yumenoshima Marina in Tokyo

15 | TRAVELER

where I needed it to be, and it was the cheapest in the marina. Even then, I spent my life savings to purchase and upgrade Wahine.

RM: I’m sure maintaining and upgrading your boat and preparing all the trip logistics and your health are expensive. What are some ways you are receiving support for this trip?

LS: UFC Gym is training me to get into shape for sailing. I’ve also received a comfortable mattress from Dor meo that I’m excited to check out.

Tokyo Supercars and Westlund Group are also my sponsors. I’ll also be filming for a major TV channel and my own YouTube channel, which you can help support by subscribing to Pacific Solo.

To f o l l o w L o w e l l ’s j o u r n e y, s u b s c r i b e t o Pacific Solo on YouTube and visit his website at www.pacificsolo.com. v Sheppard relaxing aboard the Wahine with his grandson

Winter 2021 | 15

The Healing For es ts OF SHINANO-MACHI

BY BILL ROSS

W

e’re waiting in a rolling, forested landscape, not far from the Douwakan (Kurohime Fairy Tale Museum). Just to our west is Mt. Kurohime; further away to the north is the tall peak of Mt. Myoko, just across the nearby border with Niigata. Our leader—or “trainer”—Chie Kosuga starts with a quick introduction, lets us introduce ourselves, then outlines the course ahead for the next three hours.

“We’re going to be walking about 1.5 kilometers,” she says. Seems like a lot of time for a short trek, I think. She seems to read my mind: “We’re not going on a hike today,” she says.

We’ll be walking, slowly as the main goal is forest therapy. The concept of shinrin-yoku, or forest bathing, has become well-known globally and here in Shinano-machi—in northern Nagano—is one of the centers for the emergence of this approach of using nature to relax and heal.

In addition to the locals, Ms. Kosuga and supporting guide Kohei Nishida, most of the others in our group of five are from metropolitan areas.

It would be unusual to have both guides in an international group this size speak English well, but the tours usually include Japanese urbanites.

“People from cities are usually under a lot of stress, and are surrounded by bad air. Today we’re going to introduce them to different smells of the forest, many of which are both relaxing and healing.”

A s w e m o v e s l o w l y t h ro u g h t h e w o o d s , the subtle differences in smell become more pronounced as smog-clogged noses begin to pick up more and more subtleties: damp earth and the

16 | TRAVELER

varying fragrances of coniferous and broadleaf trees.

Nishida-san picks a small frond of yomogi, Japanese mugwort, a plant used for both food and medicinal purposes, with a unique blend of sweet and bitter and green fragrances.

“It grows almost like a weed—it’s so common,” Mr. Nishida says. “But it’s also very special for its smell and the flavor it adds to local foods like sasadango (mochi filled with anko bean paste and wrapped in bamboo grass leaves).” He encourages us to breathe in deeply, not just the fragrance of the yomogi, but of the forest air itself.

As we experience the different smells, the trainers encourage us to look, touch and take a moment to really listen to the sounds around us. Bird song, babbling waters and rustling leaves all come more and more into focus.

“Our goal is to use all five senses,” Ms. Kosuga says. “This really helps to relieve the stress that people have in their busy lives, where they don’t find time to really enjoy what is around them.” Then she hands me a yoga mat.

“It’s time for what we call mori ga counseling— or forest counseling,” she says. Everyone is told to find a place that they find relaxing: perhaps under a low tree, out in the open or where there is a particularly soothing fragrance. “Many people are tense or hesitant at first,” she says, “But by the time we do the ‘counseling’ they’re usually relaxed and enjoying the session.” After this relaxing break we enjoy some ocha (brown tea) and handmade sweets, as we continue our slow return to our starting point.

RETURN TO THE FOREST Six months later, we return for another exploration of the Shinanomachi forest, this time along the south shores of Lake Nojiri. We engage in many of the same kinds of activities as we did in summer, but now on snowshoes. It’s both familiar and very different—again a short hike of more than three hours, but now in a white world without green leaves or flowers.

That doesn’t mean there are no unique smells, sounds and sights—such as the unique sticky touch of a tightly wound sapling’s buds, not yet open but covered in a protective gooey material and ready for spring’s warm winds.

The pace, the slow enjoying of simple natural wonders…I’m feeling, well, pretty relaxed and healed.

Shinano-machi is a beautiful setting for this, without a doubt. But how did this rural area, on a plateau just outside Nagano City to the south, and surrounded by high mountains and ski resorts, become the epicenter of this growing interest in forest healing (after all, when the Wall Street Journal did a piece on shinrin-yoku, this is where they came)?

“The formal system began in 2002,” Ms. Kosuga explains. The popularity of skiing was going down (Kurohime Kogen Ski Area is within Shinanomachi, while Tangram, Madarao and the Myoko ski areas are all adjacent to it), so the area needed a new activity to draw visitors.

In the late 1990s, when forest therapy began in Shinano-machi, some local guides and local resident C.W.

Nicol often had casual meetings and talked about how they can use the forests around Shinano-machi for locals and visitors. They received support from Nagano Prefecture in 2002, which was the official start of the forest therapy project in Shinano-machi. Some of them are still trainers at the center.

She stresses, though, that pure tourism is not the goal for forest therapy in Shinano-machi. “It is an attraction, but we wanted something deeper on both the physical and spiritual levels,” she says. “We really wanted to create something that could heal urban people, as well as something people here would also enjoy. I can really say that this is the birthplace of forest bathing.

You can’t get far in talking about forest therapy, or indeed about the forests in Shinano-machi without hearing C.W. Nicol’s name. In the 1980s and 90s, it wouldn’t be necessary to explain who he was, as he was on television all the time in Japan, talking about nature, yes, but also appearing in ham and whiskey commercials. A writer, musician,

martial artist and, most importantly, naturalist, Mr. Nicol was arguably the most famous foreigner in Japan (in fact he became a Japanese citizen in 1995), and certainly Shinano-machi’s best-known citizen. He was definitely a man of strong opinions, something not all the locals agreed entirely with, yet most would say he helped move things ahead for the region. I had the pleasure many years ago of helping him set up a computer, which was followed by a delightful wine-filled lunch and a deep discussion on the perils of cementcoated riverbanks and mono-species forest plantings.

To find out more about that last point in particular, we visited the Afan Forest Office, a striking building set on the edge of the forest, made entirely of sustainable forestry products. The manager, Wataru Ohsawa, explained the Afan Forest project, and Nicol’s role in establishing it.

“Nicol-san set up the Afan Forest (afan being both a river and a forest in Nicol’s native Wales) way back in 1986, in order to save the forest,” he says. “He

Winter 2021 | 17

saw the beauty of the Japanese forests, and felt that there was a special quality that he thought had to be protected.” So he began to buy up forests in a time when much of the area was being cleared out and replanted, often with just one species of tree—good for lumbering, not great for the forest ecology. The continued purchases—funded in large part by those appearances in commercials and other activities— eventually stretching to some 34 hectares of forest.

“He started forestry activities to clear out the brush and thin the tress,” Mr. Ohsawa explains. “He wanted to increase the biodiversity of the forest, which would also protect wildlife. By restoring the forest, more light could come in, which meant more plants, flowers, insects and therefore more birds and animals. In restoring the forest, they would also see how animals would respond, and adjust accordingly.

“He also wanted to create a system where others could carry on in the future,” he says. “So in 2002, the C. W. Nicol Afan Woodland Trust was formally established.”

An aerial photograph shows clearly what has been accomplished; outside the Afan area, the trees are huge swaths of single colors and shapes—monospecies planting. The Afan forest, by contrast, is multi-colored, with a great variety of shapes just like the diversity found closer to ground.

The area is used for a wide variety of activities such as children’s camps and study activities. Since 2016, the Afan Horse Project was also begun, with two horses now not only providing a unique activity for, but also actually working in the forest, helping to drag out cleared trees and brush. “They’re really part of the forest restoration project—this is not just a horse-riding experience!” he says. In fact, he adds, the forest in general is not a place for big tours. “It’s the same for all the activities here; the whole key is balance.” v

18 | TRAVELER

ESSENTIAL INFO

Forest Therapy AT Shinano Woods-Life Community Join a forest therapy tour in Shinano-machi.

Call, e-mail or visit their website for details.

Tel: 026-255-5925 Email: shinanomachi.wlc@gmail.com Web: http://iyashinomori.main.jp The C.W. Nicol Afan Woodland Trust Find out more about C.W. Nicol’s legacy in Shinano-machi, tours, kids programs and more.

Tel: 026-254-8081 Web: www.afan.or.jp Shinano-machi Visitors Guide Explore more about the beautiful Shinanomachi area at the tourism depar tments official website with activities and travel information for every season.

Web: www.shinanomachi-nagano.jp ABOUT C.W. NICOL Clive William Nicol was born in 1940 in Neath, Wales. At a young age he traveled to the Canadian Arctic to study the eider duck, then came to Japan in the early 1960s to study both at Nihon University and martial arts. He became a game warden in Ethiopia in 1967 to 1969, establishing the Semien Mountains National Park. Returning to Japan, he became a well-known writer and media personality.

He set tled in the Kurohime area of Shinano machi in 1980, where he continued his work in natural restoration, outdoor training and writing.

He became a Japanese citizen in 1995, and was awarded an Order of the British Empire in 2005.

He is the author of many books in both English and Japanese, including children’s books and writings on the environment in both English and Japanese.

He passed away in 2020.

“POWDER” think deep

PHOTO: YAKEBITAIYAMA

knowledge is

HOKKAIDO

Kamui Ski Links Furano

T

he general rule with skiing is, the farther north Kiroro Snow World you go, the better the snow. Well, you can’t go any farther north in Japan than Hokkaido, Niseko Grand Hirafu and the area rightfully creates the biggest buzz for Niseko Village people in search of deep powder. The reason for this is simple: Hokkaido consistently gets the best snow Niseko Annupuri conditions, and Niseko in particular is recognized as a world-class ski resort, rivaling the long-established Rusutsu ski areas in Europe and North America. However, anyone thinking Hokkaido is a one-trick pony will be pleasantly surprised to find there are some great ski areas all over Japan’s north island.

Sahoro

Tomamu

NISEKO NISEKO GRAND HIRAFU, NISEKO ANNUPURI, NISEKO VILLAGE RESORT, NISEKO HANAZONO

Kutchan-cho, Hokkaido Niseko United: www.niseko.ne.jp

Niseko Grand Hirafu 37% 1 8 Park

Park

Niseko Annupuri

Longest Course: 4,000m Top Elevation: 1,156m Base Elevation: 400m Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

20 | TRAVELER

Niseko HANAZONO Resort

Longest Course: 4,550m Top Elevation: 1,030m Base Elevation: 308m

Niseko Grand Hirafu

Advanced

Longest Course: 5,600m Top Elevation: 1,200m Niseko Village Base Elevation: 240m Longest Course: 5,000m Top Elevation: 1,175m Base Elevation: 280m

40% 5 1

23% 1

Niseko Village Resort 36% 1

32% 4

32% 2

27

courses

30

courses

Niseko Annupuri 30% 1

13

courses

40% 1

Niseko HANAZONO Resort 30% 4

25% 3

11

courses

63%

12%

Niseko gets a lot of attention, and rightfully so. It is the most international ski resort in Japan and consistently gets some of the heaviest snowfall in the world. The mountain, Mt. Annupuri (which, in Ainu, means White Mountain), is home to three ski resorts: Niseko Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village (formerly Niseko Higashiyama) and Niseko Annupuri.

Collectively they form Niseko United and share a common lift pass. The Hanazono area of Niseko Grand Hirafu is independently managed, and one of the more progressive areas on the mountain, featuring three terrain parks and the only FIS Half Pipe in Japan, which is well maintained throughout the season, and a bag jump, where you can safely practice your freestyle tricks.

Niseko Village (which is a 10-minute drive from the main Hirafu Village area) also has nice facilities and a lot of activities. Niseko Annupuri keeps the lowest profile of the three, but has some nice areas that can be less crowded. Other nearby resorts are Niseko Moiwa and Niseko Weiss. The lifts are no longer running at Weiss, but cat tours service the area. While a few other resorts may challenge Niseko’s claim to the best powder in Japan, there is no doubt Niseko has the best, and widest, selection of restaurants and accommodations in Japan.

The infrastructure is well organized, with efficient bus service to/from Sapporo and New Chitose Airport and a shuttle bus that takes visitors to the various resorts. On one of those rare midseason clear days, the view of Mt. Yotei from the slopes is the quintessential image of skiing in Japan.

NISEKO ANNUPURI

(0136) 58-2080 https://annupuri.info/winter/english 8:30 - 20:30 (16:30 - 20:30) End of Nov. - Mid-May

1 DAY TICKET

ACCESS

Adults Kids

¥5,600 ¥3,300

Park

By Train: 120 minutes from Sapporo Station to Niseko Station

By Car: 120 minutes from Sapporo City and New Chitose Airport

NISEKO GRAND HIRAFU

(0136) 22-0109 Dec. 5 - May 5

1 DAY TICKET

ACCESS

Adults Kids

www.grand-hirafu.jp 8:30 - 20:00 (16:30 - 20:00)

¥6,300 ¥3,800

Park

By Train: 120 minutes from Sapporo Station to Kutchan Station

By Car: 130 minutes from Sapporo City and 130 minutes from New Chitose Airport

NISEKO VILLAGE

(0136) 44-2211 Dec. 1 - Apr. 4 1 DAY TICKET

ACCESS

Adults Youth Kids

¥6,200 ¥4,700 ¥3,800

www.niseko-village.com 8:30 - 20:00 (16:30 - 20:00) Park

By Train: 120 minutes from Sapporo Station to Kutchan Station

By Car: 120 minutes from Sapporo City and New Chitose Airport

NISEKO HANAZONO RESORT

(0136) 21-6688 Dec. 5 - Apr. 11 1 DAY TICKET

ACCESS

Adults Kids

¥6,300 ¥3,800

https://hanazononiseko.com 8:30 - 17:00 Park

By Train: 120 minutes from Sapporo Station to Kutchan Station

By Car: 120 minutes from Sapporo City and New Chitose Airport

Winter 2021 | 21

RUSUTSU RESORT

(0136) 46-3111 Dec. 4 - Apr. 4

Rusutsu, Hokkaido

https://rusutsu.com/en 9:00 - 20:00 (16:00-20:00)

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ6,200 ÂĽ3,200

Rusutsu is more than a good day trip from Niseko. It’s an excellent all-round mountain with 37 courses over three mountains: Mt. Isola, East Mountain and West Mountain.

Powder lovers will love the big valleys full of deep tree runs funneling down to the modern, efficient lifts, and everyone will enjoy the views of the back side of Mt. Yotei and the quieter alternative to bustling Niseko. The skiin/ski-out Rusutsu Resort Hotel is the most convenient place to stay with hot springs, day care, fireworks during Christmas and New Year and a variety of great activities.

ACCESS

By Bus: 120 minutes from Sapporo Station via shuttle bus Â

Â? Â?

By Car: 90 minutes from New Chitose Airport

KIRORO SNOW WORLD

(0135) 34-7111 Nov. 28 - May 5

www.kiroro.co.jp/english/ 9:00 - 20:00 (16:30 - 19:30)

Park

Â

Â? Â?

Akaigawa, Hokkaido 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ5,900 ÂĽ3,100

Kiroro is a relatively new (opened in 1992) ski resort just 30 kilometers west of Sapporo. The resort has great facilities, some amazing views of the Japan Sea and the natural surroundings and gets a lot of snow from mid-December until early May. Kiroro makes up for its lack of challenging terrain by offering a few powder pockets and plenty of gentle slopes for beginners and children. The "Powder Zone" opens middle of January to middle of March.

Kiroro also has one of the best base lodges in Japan, complete with a hot spring to soak away the day’s bumps and bruises and an adjacent hotel with good restaurants.

Park

37% 1

37 4

Park

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

37% 1

37% 4

Advanced

10

courses

Longest Co Top Elev Base Ele

26% 4

Park

ACCESS

Beginner Intermediate Advanced

By Car: About 30 minutes by car from Otaru or 80 minutes by car from downtown Lifts Gondola Sapporo

SAPPORO KOKUSAI

(0115) 98-4511 Nov. 20 - May 9

www.sapporo-kokusai.jp 9:00 - 17:00

Sapporo, Hokkaido 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,600 ÂĽ1,000

If you ski or snowboard, Sapporo is hard to beat. Residents can get a few quick runs just 15 minutes from downtown at Sapporo Bankei. However, many families make the one-hour drive out to “Kokusai,� which offers more choices for beginners and intermediate skiers and has a nice park. Although this is a day-trip resort, it does attract a spattering of international guests who find it hard to stay in the city when snow is falling. Most will be pleasantly surprised as this coastal resort gets its fair share of powder days and offers some varied, albeit fairly short, runs and a small, but decent park. Night skiing is not available.

Park

ACCESS

Beginner

By Car: One hour from Sapporo city center, depending on traffic Lifts

SAPPORO TEINE

(0116) 82-6000 Dec. 4 - May 5

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

Beginner

Intermediate

By Car: 30 minutes from Sapporo city center, depending onLifts traffic Gondola

22 | TRAVELER

Park

30% 2 Park

Beginner Lifts

30% 2

7

courses

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

60% 1

10% 2

7

courses

60 1

Longest C Top Elev Base El

Longest Course: 3,600m Top Elevation: 1,100m Base Elevation: 670m

Sapporo, Hokkaido

www.sapporo-teine.com 9:00 - 21:00 (16:00 - 21:00)

ÂĽ5,400 ÂĽ2,800

If someone mentions the Winter Olympics in Japan, you’ll undoubtedly think of the 1998 Nagano Olympics. Yet 26 years earlier, Sapporo hosted its own Winter Games at a resort just 30 minutes from downtown Sapporo. Yet, what might be most surprising is this resort, Sapporo Teine, offers some steep and deep powder fun for intermediate and advanced riders. The offpiste terrain is up in the Teine Highland area, accessible without having to duck ropes or elude the patrol. The Teine Olympia is a kinder, gentler area, which has a lively park scene.

Night skiing available until 9 p.m.

ACCESS

Longest Course: 4,050m Top Elevation: 1,180m Base Elevation: 570m

10

courses

Advanced

Park

40% 1

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

40% 1

15

courses

30% 1

Advanced

30%

Longest Course: 6,000m Top Elevation: 1,023m Base Elevation: 680m

15

courses

30 1

Longest Co Top Elev Base Ele

SAHORO RESORT

Shintoku, Hokkaido Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

(0156) 64-4121 www.sahoro.co.jp 9:00 - 18:00 (15:00 -18:00) Dec. 12 - Mar. 31

ÂĽ5,800 ÂĽ4,600

Park

Sahoro is a well-run resort that caters to families. There are 17 nicely groomed courses, some “semi-backcountry� and a terrain park.

Like Tomamu, it’s a place where you can have fun whether you are a skier or not, with lots of activities. Two all-inclusive hotels service Sahoro Resort: The Sahoro Resort Hotel, an attractive luxury hotel, and the Club Med Sahoro. English ski lessons are available and lots of organized fun for the whole family. Sahoro is not for the budget traveler, but makes for a great family getaway.

ACCESS

Â

By Train: 94 minutes from New Chitose Airport to Shintoku Station

Â

By Car: 200 min. from Sapporo to Tomamu I.C.

HOSHINO RESORTS TOMAMU

(0167) 58-1111 Dec. 1 - Apr. 4

ÂĽ5,900 ÂĽ3,900

Park

 � �

Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

ÂĽ6,000 FREE

Park

Central Hokkaido's Furano Resort is known for blue skies, yet manages nearly nine meters of snow each year. There are two sides to the mountain, serviced by a 101-person cable car (Japan’s fastest). The nearby Tokachi Range is a popular backcountry playground. The ski-in/ ski-out New Furano Prince Hotel has a new hot springs facility. Join the Host Program and get a tour from a local or a bus tour from January to March to Lake Shikarebetsu’s ice village and bathe in ice bathhouses or enjoy a drink at the ice bar built on the frozen lake.

Park

 �

Park

Bus or car access is recommended: 60 minutes from Asahikawa Airport to Furano

Station  �

KAMUI SKI LINKS

Furano, Hokkaido

(0167) 22-1111 www.princehotels.co.jp/newfurano 8:30 - 19:30 (16:30 -19:30) Nov. 21 - May 5

ACCESS

Â

By Train: 90 minutes from New Chitose Airport to Tomamu Station Â? Â?

By Car: 100 minutes from New Chitose Airport

FURANO RESORT

Shimukappu, Hokkaido Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

www.snowtomamu.jp 9:00 - 18:00 (16:00-18:00)

To m a m u h a s e x c e l l e n t f a c i l i t i e s a n d a beautiful location. Many courses are suited for beginners, yet a challenging double black diamond course and cat-ski tours will challenge advanced riders. Tomamu is a destination in itself with a plethora of ways to entertain the whole family. There’s a good selection of restaurants, an indoor wave pool, Kids Park, Ice Village and a variety of spa and relaxation options. The resort has also expanded the Family Adventure area and connected the two mountains.

ACCESS

Asahikawa, Hokkaido

(0166) 72-2311 www.kamui-skilinks.com 9:00 - 17:00 Beg. of Dec. - Mar. 31

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ3,800 ÂĽ1,800

Kamui Ski Links is a resort run “by skiers, for skiers.� Those who enjoy powder and tree skiing will understand why this little resort 20 kilometers outside of Asahikawa has so many admirers. Management has no restrictions on tree skiing and has even left several courses in which to play ungroomed. On top of that, the snow quality is excellent. You may find yourself in some short lines for the lifts on weekends, but on weekdays it is nothing but fresh lines down the hill. Be sure to warm up by the fireplace at Trattoria & Pizzeria 751 at the top of the gondola.

Park

Â? Â?

Â

Â? Â?

ACCESS

Bus or car access is recommended: About 40 minutes from downtown Asahikawa

 on Route 12

Winter 2021 | 23

TOHOKU Hakkoda Ropeway

Hachimantai Resort

Tazawako

HAKKODA ROPEWAY

Grandeco

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

6 Times (on Ropeway) ÂĽ6,100 ÂĽ2,150

Miyagi Eboshi

Alts Bandai

Yamagata Zao

APPI KOGEN

Hakkoda, Aomori

(017) 738-0343 www.hakkoda-ropeway.jp Mid-Dec. - Beg. of May 9:00 - 15:20

Appi Kogen

(0195) 73-6401 Nov. 28 - May 5

Photo courtesy of JapowTours.com

T

he Tohoku Region represents about 35 percent of the area of Japan’s main island, Honshu. Running north-south through the center of Tohoku are the Ou Mountains, ranging between 1,500-2,000 meters. When the famous poet, Matsuo Basho, wrote The Narrow Road to the Deep North (Oku no Hosomichi), these were the mountains toward which he walked. Today they are full of some of Japan’s least crowded ski resorts. Tohoku may seem far away, but it’s only two-to-four hours by bullet train or you can jump on a domestic flight. Regardless, it’s never too far to go to find good snow.

Hachimantai, Iwate

www.appi-japan.com 8:00 - 20:00 (16:00 - 20:00) 1 DAY TICKET

Park

Adults Kids

ÂĽ5,600 ÂĽ3,300

Park

Tour Route Area Tour Route Area

20% 1

60% 1

20%

30% 2 1

Park

40 3

The eight peaks of Hakkoda attract Japan's most Longest C APPI is a giant resort (45.1 kilometers of trails) with Longest Course: 5,000m devoted powder lovers. It is basically backcountry 21 Top Elev Beginner Intermediate Advanced season 5 aToplong Elevation: 1,324m(thanks to the many north-facing Beginner Intermediate Advanced courses Base Ele with a 100-person gondola that takes 10 minutes Lifts Gondola courses slopes) plus some Lifts Gondola Base Elevation: 660m great facilities (thanks to bubble to the top with four trips every hour. Once you era spending). Unlike many resorts in Japan that get off, you can choose from "Direct" or "Forest" Â? Â? Â? Â?

60% 20% 20% have relatively short runs, the average course length trails. You won't get many blue bird Tourdays here, and at APPI is 2,100m; the longest 5,500m. It’s possible Area

visibility can be difficult during Route snowstorms, which 1 1 Tour Route Area to do Appi as a long day-trip from Tokyo but, with happen often. So if you are a Hakkoda newbie and two ski-in/ski-out hotels and an annex hotel, which want to explore the terrain, it's best to grab a local collectively sleep 4,100 guests, why not stay and guide. Hakkoda Sansou, across the parking lot from

soak away sore muscles at one of the two natural Longest Course: 5,000m the gondola, is the closest accommodation. Up the Â

 �

5 hot springs after a day on the mountain.

Families Top Elevation: 1,324m Beginner Intermediate Advanced

road, Sukayu Onsen is a mixedLiftshot spring with a

courses Base Elevation: 660m

� �

Gondola will appreciate the Kids Park.

300-year history and a 1,000-person bath.

Park

ACCESS

By Bus: 80 minutes from Aomori Station

By Car: 35 min. from Aomori I.C. and Ishiguri I.C.

ACCESS

HACHIMANTAI RESORT

TAZAWAKO SKI RESORT

Hachimantai, Iwate

(0195) 78-4111 www.hachimantai.co.jp 8:30 - 20:00 Dec. 19 - Mar. 28

By Train and Bus: 50 minutes from Morioka Station to APPI.

By Car: 15 minutes from Matsuo-Hachimantai I.C. or Ashiro I.C.

Tazawako, Akita

(0187) 46-2011 www.tazawako-ski.com 9:00 - 16:00 Dec. 18 - Mar. 31 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,200 ÂĽ2,900

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,100 ÂĽ1,100

Park

Park

40% 1

PANORAMA

30% 1

20% 5

30% 2

When it snows in Tazawako, and it usually does, there is deep powder and a good variety of courses to enjoy.

When Longest Course: 2,700mit is not snowing, you are treated Longest Cou 13 Top Eleva 14 toTopone of the1,130m great views of any ski resort in Japan, Elevation: Beginner Intermediate Advanced Beginner Intermediate Advanced courses courses Lifts Gondola Lifts Gondola with Lake Tazawa below providing a stunning Base Elev Base Elevation: 540m backdrop. For this reason, Tazawako is a popular 30% 40% 30% ski resort for people in Tohoku, but the lines are 40% 30% 30% still relatively short when compared to resorts in 4 2 1 1 5 other areas of Japan. The lifts run directly from the Tazawako Onsen hotel area. The selection of runs should keep everyone happy; on one side is a beginner and intermediate area, and on the other is Longest Course: 3,000m Longest Course: 2,700m 13 Top Elevation: 1,186m 14 Top Elevation: 1,000m a more challenging advanced course.

Beginner Powder Intermediatelovers Advanced courses courses Base Elevation: 540m Lifts Gondola won’t want to miss the Komagatake Panoramic Cat Base Elevation: 608m Tour.

SHIMOKURA

It’s easy to get confused because there are two Iwate Hachimantai resorts and another in Akita.

Iwate’s Hachimantai Resort, is a great family ski destination. Hachimantai Resort covers PANORAMA two main areas, Panorama ski area and the Shimokura ski area. Both are well sheltered from the weather, and Panorama features a huge SHIMOKURA night skiing area. There are high-speed lifts and mainly beginner or intermediate courses.

Park

Beginner Lifts

ACCESS

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

Park

Park

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Morioka Station (2 hours , 11 minutes), then about 90 minutes by bus to Hachimantai Resort

24 | TRAVELER

30% 4

Park

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Tazawako Station (3 hours), then 30 minutes by bus to the ski resort

EBOSHI RESORT

Zao-machi, Miyagi

(0224) 34-4001 www.eboshi.co.jp 9:00 - 22:00 (16:00 - 22:00) Dec. 1 - Mar. 28

Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

ÂĽ4,600 ÂĽ2,000

Park

Miyagi's Eboshi Resort is on the other side of the mountain from the more famous Yamagata Zao Onsen Ski Resort. It's much quieter, the lift lines are shorter on this side of the track, and the views are fantastic. Although it's a decent sized resort with well laid-out courses and a variety of ways to descend the mountain, it is more geared for beginners or advanced riders, as there is not a lot of challenging terrain.

Powder hounds will be salivating on some of the areas outside the lines.

Â? Â?

 � �

Â? Â?

ACCESS

ZAO ONSEN SKI RESORT

Yamagata-shi, Yamagata

(023) 694-9617 www.zao-ski.or.jp 8:30 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00) Dec. 18 - Apr. 1

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ5,000 ÂĽ2,500

Park

Ski resorts each have their own personalities; it is one of the joys of exploring new resort areas.

Zao Onsen has a big bubbling personality. The town is literally bubbling with hot springs, and the ski resort offers a unique ski experience— skiing among the famous Zao Snow Monsters (juhyo). The resort is big with four gondolas, 32 lifts and a 10K downhill course. Skiers will enjoy the layout more than snowboarders (too much traversing), but the highlight, undoubtedly, is riding among these huge creatures formed of ice and wind. The peak season is February, and the juhyo illumination is spectacular.

 �

By Train and Bus: 2 1/2 hours by bullet train from Tokyo to Yamagata Station,

 � then 40 minutes by bus to Zao Onsen

HOSHINO RESORTS ALTS BANDAI SNOW PARK & RESORT (0242) 74-5000 www.alts.co.jp 8:30-21:00 (17:30-21:00) Dec. 25 - Mar. 21

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,900 ÂĽ2,100

With 30K of rideable terrain, nearly 30 courses and progressive free-style parks, it is no surprise ALTS is a favorite of many of the top park riders in Japan. The resort is the largest in southern Tohoku and was the home to the Asia Open. ALTS has a Cat Ski area on the west side of the resort where visitors can enjoy some deep turns. Slide into Yama Cafe for a drink or relax in the hotel's great hot springs. ALTS is a southfacing resort, so it’s bright and features some nice terrain for free riding, but powder lovers will want to head next door to north-facing Nekoma. This year, a route connecting ALTS and Nekoma will open so you can reach Nekoma within a 15-minute walk.

Park

Park

ACCESS

(1

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Shoroishi-Zao Station hour, 54 Â Â? Â? minutes) then about an hour to the ski resort

ACCESS

GRANDECO SNOW RESORT

(0241) 32-2530 www.grandeco.com 8:30 - 17:00 Beg. of Dec. - Beg. of Apr.

Bandai, Fukushima

Park

Â? Â? Â? Â?

Â? Â?

Â

 �

 �

Â

Aizu Ura Bandai, Fukushima 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ5,800 ÂĽ4,200

Grandeco Snow Resort is a medium-sized resort with first-rate facilities, which include a gondola and express chairlifts and artificial snow-making capabilities to guarantee early and late-season riding. There is also a luxury hotel and SIA certified Snow Academy. Although the resort is best suited for beginners and intermediate riders, there are tree runs for advanced riders and a well maintained park. Gran Deco is one of the highest resorts in the area, which means good quality snow. The nearby Hotel Gran Deco has westernstyle rooms, an indoor and outdoor swimming pool (open in winter), Jacuzzis, saunas, hot spring baths, restaurants and bars.

ACCESS

Â? Â?

By Train: 90 minutes from Tokyo Station to Koriyama Station

By Car: 75 minutes from Fukushima International Airport.

By Train: 45 minutes from Inawashiro Station via local bus.

By Car: 35 minutes from Inawashiro Bandai Kogen I.C.

Park

40% 1

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

8

45% 4

15% 2

Longest Course: 4,000m Top Elevation: 1,590m

courses Base Elevation: 1,010m

Winter 2021 | 25

NAGANO Togakushi

N

agano is the traditional center of the Japan snow scene, and at the heart of it is the Japan Alps. The prefecture is home to some of the finest, steepest and biggest resor t s in Japan, and boast s arguably the most breathtaking scener y. Within Nagano, the sheer volume of ski areas is due to the jagged spine of rugged natural beauty known as the Japan Alps slashing through the prefecture. This area is as much a Mecca for photographers as it is for skiers, with its many onsen, snow-swept valleys and bristling peaks. Backcountry fun here is limited only to your preparedness and daring.

Hakuba, Shiga Kogen, Nozawa and the Iiyama areas are just the tip of the proverbial iceberg.

HAKUBA GORYU

Hakuba Cortina Tsugaike Hakuba Iwatake Hakuba Happo

Okushiga Yakebitaiyama Shiga Kogen Area Hoppobundaira Higashitateyama Nishitateyama

Hakuba 47

Hakuba Goryu Norikura

HAKUBA 47

Hakuba, Nagano

(0261) 75-2101 www.hakubagoryu.com/e/index.html Mid-Dec. - Beg. of May 8:00 -16:50 (18:00 - 21:30) 1 DAY TICKET

Nozawa Onsen Madarao

Hakuba, Nagano

(0261) 75-3533 www.hakuba47.co.jp Mid-Dec. - May 5 8:00 - 16:20 Adults Kids

ÂĽ5,500 ÂĽ2,900

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ5,000 ÂĽ2,700

Park

Park

40% 3

35% 1 1

30% 1

25% 9

40% 1

Part of Hakuba Valley Resorts, Hakuba Goryu is one Hakuba 47 5,000m is a relatively new resort (opened Longest Co Longest Course: of the most scenic and pleasant places to ski. Soak up in Top 1990), and1,624m they’ve been trying to take some Top Eleva Elevation: Beginner Intermediate Advanced Beginner Intermediate Advanced courses courses the view as the Japan Alps soar behind you, and then Lifts Gondola Lifts Gondola Base Ele Base Elevation: 950m steps to making a better resort fresh, progressive head down to Escal Plaza, one of the best base lodges experience. There are loads of activities and events, 40% 25% 35% 40% 30% 30% in Japan. There is a ski/snowboard rental shop, a nice an extensive snow park with lots of jibs, kickers selection of restaurants and even a bath open until and things to launch off, and a great half pipe. The 1 9 1 4 3 1 9 p.m. daily. The Toomi Piste is open until 9:30 p.m. resort also has some excellent intermediate courses, If you’re on a tight budget, there is a “resting room� a challenging mogul course and a shared ticket 1 where you can wait for the lifts to open. It’s a common with Goryu, so no shortage of courses from which space that fits up to 100 people (no reservations Longest Course: 5,000m Longest Course: 6,400m to choose. If you were wondering about the name, required). Serious skiers can challenge Top Elevation: 1,624m Top Elevation: 1,614m Beginner themselves Intermediate on Advanced Beginner Intermediate Advanced courses Base Elevation: 950m courses Base Elevation: 820m the goal of the resort is to offerLifts a great mountain Gondolashares a Gondola the Champions expert run. HakubaLifts Goryu also experience “4� seasons and “7� days a week. common lift pass with Hakuba 47.

Park

Park

ACCESS

Park

16

Park

16

By Train and Shuttle: Shinkansen to Nagano Station and the direct bus to Hakuba. A shuttle service runs between Goryu and Hakuba 47

HAKUBA HAPPO-ONE

Hakuba, Nagano

(0261) 72-3066 www.happo-one.jp 8:00 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00) Mid-Dec. - May 5

ACCESS

8

8

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 45 minutes), then an Alpico Bus to Hakuba (60 minutes)

HAKUBA IWATAKE SNOW FIELD

Hakuba, Nagano

(0261) 72-2474 iwatake.jp Dec. 18 - Mar. 28 8:00 - 17:00 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ5,200 ÂĽ3,000

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,600 ÂĽ2,800

Park

Park

Â? Â?

­ €

Â? Â?

Â?

 Â?  Â? Â? Â

Happo is a huge resort that is heaven for skiers If the crowds at Happo are too much for you,

who enjoy well-groomed, long courses. There are

over to nearby Iwatake. The base of the

head

  � many runs, good challenging terrain and a nice

resort looks up at Hakuba’s highest peaks for a park and the Hakuba Banks Park opens on Feb. 1. spectacular view while you enjoy the slopes. The

Happo hosted the downhill races during the 1998

resort itself is surprisingly big, making it a great Olympics and, if you want to test your meddle,

Â?

� � head to the top of the men’s downhill course. While place to go to get away from the crowds and advanced riders will love Happo, beginners may get explore the 26 courses. Lift lines are relatively

Â? frustrated with the many narrow paths leading down short by Hakuba standards, and you can often the mountain. If you need a break, there are plenty  Â?  Â? Â? Â

find some pockets of powder here after it has of restaurants to stop for a bite. Note the resort’s

especially

popularity means it can get crowded, on been tracked out at other resorts nearby.

 �

 long weekends. � �

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 45 minutes), then an Alpico Bus to Hakuba (60 minutes)

26 | TRAVELER

­ €

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 45 minutes), then an Alpico Bus to Hakuba (60 minutes)

HAKUBA CORTINA SKI RESORT

Hakuba, Nagano

(0261) 82-2236 www.hgp.co.jp 1 DAY 8:30 -17:00 (Dec. 29 - Jan. 3, 9, 10: 17:00 - 21:00) TICKET Dec. 19 - Apr. 4

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,200 ÂĽ2,600 Park

If you are looking for a place to spend a quiet, romantic ski weekend in the Hakuba area, head over to Cortina. The massive Green Plaza Hotel with northern European architecture is impressive.

If your ski partner is just starting out, the course right outside the door of the hotel is a gentle slope and great for beginners. Although most of the runs are in the beginner to intermediate range, there are some steep courses, and they have adopted a progressive approach to tree skiing and power areas in which guests are responsible for themselves if they get into trouble. The Hakuba Cortina Resort also offers a convenient shuttle from Nagano Station (one-way, 1,000 yen).

ACCESS

Beginner

By Train: From Shinjuku to Minami Otari: 4 hours (By Azusa) Lifts

By Car: 90 minutes from Nagano I.C. to hotel

HAKUBA TSUGAIKE KOGEN

(0261) 83-2515 www.tsugaike.gr.jp Dec. 10 - May 5 8:00 - 17:00 (8:00 - 20:50 on Sat.)

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

40% 2

Beginner Lifts

40% 2

Adults Kids

ÂĽ5,100 ÂĽ3,000

Beginner Station Intermediate

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Lifts Gondola (1 hour, 45 minutes), then a shuttle to Hakuba Cortina (80 minutes)

MT. NORIKURA

Advanced

30%

Longest Course: 2,025m Top Elevation: 1,402m Base Elevation: 872m

Park

50% 1 1

Park

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

50% 1 1

14

courses

30% 1 9

Advanced

14

courses

30% 1 9

20% 9 2

Longest Course: 4,630m Top Elevation: 1,704m Base Elevation: 800m

20% 9 2

Longest Course: 4,630m Top Elevation: 1,704m Base Elevation: 800m

Norikura Kogen Onsen, Nagano

www.b r n o r i k u r a . j p 8:45 - 16:30

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,300 ÂĽ2,200

The base of Mt. Norikura (not to be confused with the smaller Hakuba Norikura) starts at 1,500 meters, meaning the snow quality is excellent, and you’ll spend more time riding than in lift lines. It is a relatively small, local resort, yet the dedicated locals have created a progressive and challenging terrain park and good facilities for beginners to learn to ride.

There is no ATM, so bring cash or your credit card and make sure to pack chains or have a 4WD, since Norikura is nestled deep in the Northern Alps. After a day on the mountain, don’t miss the great rotenburo at Yukemurikan.

ACCESS

30% 5

16

courses

Longest Course: 2,025m Top Elevation: 1,402m Base Elevation: 872m

16

courses

Park

(0263) 93-2645 Dec. 12 - Apr. 4

Advanced

30%

Otari, Nagano 1 DAY TICKET

Tsugaike is actually located in Otari Village, just up the road from Hakuba. The resort could be considered one of the most underrated, considering it has some huge bowls, a big gondola, terrain park, cross-country course, good night skiing and some interesting runs.

There are even heli-skiing tours in spring and good places to hike to get fresh turns. The Children’s Square is great for kids just starting out on the slopes. Most of Tsugaike’s runs are in the intermediate range, but there are a few expert areas as well. To finish off a great day, head over to Tsuga no Yu hot springs, just 100 meters from the gondola.

ACCESS

Intermediate Gondola

30% 5

Park

Â

Â

Â

Â

Â?

Â?

(2

By Train: Super Azusa Express train from Shinjuku to Matsumoto hours, 37

minutes. Transfer at Matsumoto, then on to Shin Shimashima (30 minutes)

Winter 2021 | 27

SHIGA KOGEN Shiga Kogen, Nagano www.shigakogen-ski.com

Shibutouge

Okushiga Kogen

Terakoya Yokoteyama

Yakebitaiyama Yama no Kami

Ichinose Family

Hoppo Bunadaira, Higashidateyama, Nishidateyama

Tanne no Mori

Kumanoyu Giant

Diamond

Hasuike

Kidoike SunValley

Maruike If you include all 19 interlinked ski resorts, Shiga Kogen in northern Nagano is Japan’s largest ski resort area. Surrounded by 2,000-meter mountains, Shiga has good elevation and is a great place to get in some early or late season runs, as the season stretches from late November to early May. Shiga Kogen hosted the women’s downhill, slalom, the super giant slalom and both snowboarding events for the 1998 Nagano Olympic Winter Games.

W ith more than 80 accommodations scattered around the area, there is no shortage of places to stay, although it has retained an “old school� feel with most restaurants found inside hotels; some serving Shiga Kogen’s excellent microbrew. There are many onsen in the area to soak in after a day on the mountain, yet the most famous in the area is off-limits to humans.

Jigokudani Yaen Koen is a sanctuary for resident snow monkeys that lounge in their own hot springs, while visitors snap away with their cameras.

Shiga Kogen has limited ATM access (ATM is available at the Shiga Kogen Post Office in the Hasuike area), so bring some cash.

Starting this year, a common ski lift pass will be available for Shiga Kogen Resort’s 13 ski areas which are part of the “Shiga Kogen Resort Chuo Area.� These resorts include Sun Valley, Maruike, Hasuike, Giant, Happo Bunahira, Higashi Tateyama, Teragoya, Takamahara

Mammoth, Nishi Tateyama, Tanne-no-mori Okojo, Ichinose Family, Ichinose Diamond and Ichinose Yama-no-kami. If you plan to try all the ski areas, you’ll need to give yourself at least a few days to explore the various terrain.

Okushiga Kogen is known as “Skiers Paradise� as it remains a skiers-only resort, (along with Kumanoyu), while Yakebitaiyama is a Prince Resort with excellent facilities. The Hoppo Bunadaira area is great for beginners and families with small children while Higashidateyama is best suited for advanced skiers, although there is a gentle woodland course as well. The resort hosted the men’s and women’s giant slalom in the 1998 Olympic Games, and it boasts an extremely challenging downhill course. The restaurant at the summit of Mt. Higashidate boasts incredible panoramic views and is the starting point to get to other ski areas such as Terakoya.

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: 110 minutes from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station, then bus (70 minutes) to Shiga Kogen resorts

HOPPO BUNADAIRA - HIGASHITATEYAMA - NISHITATEYAMA

(0269) 34-2301 https://shigakogen.co.jp 8:30 - 16:30 Mid-Dec. - Mar. 31 1 DAY TICKET

ACCESS

Adults Kids

ÂĽ5,600 ÂĽ2,700

Park

By Train: 90 minutes from Tokyo Stn. to Nagano Stn. By Car: 300 minutes from Tokyo

Â

YAKEBITAIYAMA (0269) 34-3117 www.princehotels.co.jp/ski/shiga/winter Dec. 5 - May 5 8:30 - 16:00 (18:00 - 20:00) 1 DAY TICKET ACCESS

Adults Kids

ÂĽ5,000 FREE

Park

By Train: 110 minutes from Tokyo Stn. to Nagano Stn. By Car: 300 minutes from Tokyo

 �

OKUSHIGA KOGEN SKI FIELD (0269) 34-2225 http://en.okushiga.jp 7:30 - 16:30 Dec. 12 - May 5 1 DAY TICKET ACCESS

28 | TRAVELER

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,000 ÂĽ2,000

45% 1

Park

By Train: 110 minutes from Tokyo Stn. to Nagano Stn. By Car: 300 minutes from Tokyo

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

9

35% 5

20%

Longest Course: 2,200m Top Elevation: 2,000m

courses Base Elevation: 1,460m

MADARAO MOUNTAIN RESORT

(0269) 64-3214 www.madarao.jp 8:30 - 17:00 Dec. 19 - Apr. 4

Iiyama, Nagano 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥5,000 ¥2,000

Park

Located in northeastern Nagano just above Iiyama Town, Madarao Kogen features 16 lifts and 22 courses across a bowl-shaped terrain on Mt. Madarao (1,382 meters). The resort has a nice variety of courses, groomers, a tree run area, free ride park, wave courses and kids park. They claim 60 percent of the course is ungroomed so, if you like riding powder, there should be plenty in which to play. There is also a joint ticket available for Tangram Ski Circus, a small, pretty resort. Backcountry tours can be arranged through the resort.

Park

Beginner Lifts

ACCESS

Advanced

TOGAKUSHI SKI FIELD

1 DAY TICKET

¥4,200 ¥3,200

30% 5

Park

30% 2 1

MADARAO MOUNTAIN RESORT Park

Beginner Lifts

30% 2

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

40% 3

30% 1

29

courses

40% 3

30% 5

Longest Course: 2,500m Top Elevation: 1,350m Base Elevation: 440m

Longest Course: 2,500m

Togakushi, Nagano Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

¥4,500 ¥2,500

Togakushi is an interesting, medium-sized resort. The name “Togakushi” means “hidden door,” it derived from the Japanese myth and the resort is owned by Nagano City, yet it is still relatively unknown to people outside the area.

The best way to describe Togakushi is pleasant.

The conditions always seem to be pretty good, course is variegated and there are often great powder days. Best of all, it never seems to get as busy as the more popular Nagano resorts, and it has retained a very local feel. Togakushi Village is in itself an interesting place. It is famous for soba, and there are some beautiful shrines, temples and onsen nearby to finish off a great day on the mountain.

Park

30% 2 Park

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

30% 2

40% 5

Advanced

19

40% 5

30%

Longest Course: 3,000m Top Elevation: 1,750m

courses Base Elevation: 1,200m

30%

Longest Course: 3,000m

Park

19 Top Elevation: 1,750m

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station toBeginner Nagano Station Intermediate Advanced courses Base Elevation: 1,200m Lifts (1 hour, 30 minutes), then less than 1 hour to Togakushi byGondola bus

NOZAWA ONSEN

Nozawa Onsen, Nagano

(0269) 85-3166 www.nozawaski.com 8:30 - 17:00 (16:30 - 20:00) Nov. 23 - May 6

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

¥5,200 ¥2,900

If you’re looking for the quintessential Japanese ski experience, Nozawa Onsen is hard to beat. This traditional hot spring village sits at the base of a great mountain (Mt. Kenashi, 1,650m). The resort is one of the oldest ski grounds in Japan, getting consistent snowfall. There are two gondolas and a large selection of courses to choose from. The town also features 30 hot springs scattered around the village (including 13 free baths in town) and the Dosojin Matsuri (Fire Festival) held on Jan. 15, which is a spectacle to behold.

Park

Park

40% 2 10

Park

Park

Beginner Lifts

40% 2 10

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

30% 5 1

40% 3 1

36

courses

Longest Course: 10,000m

By Train: Tokyo Station to Nagano Station by Shinkansen (109 minutes), 36 Top Elevation: 1,650m Beginner Intermediate then Iiyama Line to Togari-Nozawa Onsen St. (60 minutes) and taxi Advanced or courses Base Elevation: 565m Lifts Gondola shuttle bus to Nozawa Onsen. By Car: 75 minutes from Nagano Station Park

ACCESS

Longest Course: 2,500m Top Elevation: 1,350m Base Elevation: 440m

14 Top Elevation: 1,320m Beginner Intermediate Advanced

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagano City (1 hour, 28 courses Base Elevation: 800m Lifts Gondola minutes) then by bus to Tangram Madarao

(026) 254-2106 www.togakusi.com 8:30 - 16:30 Dec. 12 -Mar. 31

ACCESS

29

courses

30% 5

Madarao, Nagano Adults Kids

Tangram Ski Circus sounds like a great place for kids—and it is. The ski-in/out Hotel Tangram sits right at the bottom of this family-friendly resort. Facilities include hot spring baths and a heated indoor swimming pool. The resort features 14 courses on the northwest side of Mt. Madarao, with well-groomed runs, great for mom and dad to get in some leg burners with the kids. The trees look tempting, but beware the ski patrol is vigilant here. However the resort is connected to Madarao Kogen, giving you 30 courses to explore if you get bored with the runs right outside your door.

ACCESS

40% 3

Advanced

40% 3

Longest Course: 2,500m Top Elevation: 1,350m Base Elevation: 440m

29

courses

TANGRAM MADARAO

(026) 258-3511 www.tangram.jp/eng 8: 30 - 16: 30 (17:30 - 20:30) Mid-Dec. - End of Mar.

Intermediate Gondola

30% 2 1

Park

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to IiyamaBeginner Station (100 Intermediate Gondola minutes) then take a bus to Madarao Kogen HotelLifts(30 minutes)

30% 2 1

TANGRAM SKI CIRCUS

Winter 2021 | 29

30% 5 1

40% 3 1

Longest Course: 10,000m Top Elevation: 1,650m Base Elevation: 565m

NIIGATA O

ne day in 1986, the good people of Joetsu, a coastal city in Niigata, were deluged by 232 centimeters of snow—in one day. That’s roughly enough to bury a one-story building. Although this sort of thing doesn’t happen every day, Niigata gets some of the heaviest snowfalls in Japan. The town of Yuzawa was where Yasunari Kawabata penned his awardwinning novel “Snow Country� (Yukiguni). It is also Niigata’s most popular of winter sports areas, due to the easy access from Tokyo (77 minutes) and the variety of ski resorts a snowball’s throw from the station. Just over the border from Nagano Prefecture, in the southeastern part of Niigata, the Myoko Kogen area is one of Japan’s best-kept secrets. This scenic, mountainous area stretches all the way to the Sea of Japan coast and features some great resorts in its own right.

Joetsu Kokusai

NASPA Ski Garden

GALA Yuzawa

Iwappara Charmant Hiuchi Seki Onsen Akakura Myoko Suginohara

Kagura Tashiro Mitsumata

GALA YUZAWA SNOW RESORT YUZAWA KOGEN Mt. NAEBA KAGURA • MITSUMATA

NUNOBA FAMILY IPPONSUGI SKI RESORT

Mt. NAEBA KAGURA • TASHIRO

Naeba

GALA YUZAWA STATION

NUNOBA

ECHIGO YUZAWA STATION

NASPA SKI GARDEN

IWA-PPARA WINTER RESORT

KANDATSU KOGEN LUDENS YUZAWA SKI

YUZAWA PARK SKI YUZAWA NAKAZATO KAYAMA CAPTAIN COAST NAKAZATO SNOW WOOD Mt. NAEBA

Mt. NAEBA • SHIRAKABA Mt. NAEBA • ASAGAI

GONDOLA ROPEWAY

NAEBA

Yuzawa, Niigata

(0257) 89-4117 http://www.princehotels.com/en/ski/naeba/index.html 8:00 - 17:00 (16:00 - 20:30) Dec. 19 - Mar. 28 Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

KAGURA - TASHIRO - MITSUMATA

Yuzawa, Niigata

(0257) 88-9221 www.princehotels.com/en/ski/kagura Kagura, Mitsumata: Nov. 21 - May 23 Tashiro: Dec. 12 - May 5

ÂĽ5,200 FREE

1 DAY TICKET

8:00 - 17:00

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,900 FREE

Park

Park

Â

­

Â?

Park

 �

€

Â?

Mt. Naeba calls itself "The St. Moritz of the East" and is a popular choice for Kanto trendsetters These three connecting ski areas form one big

wishing to get away for a convenient ski weekend.

If you count Naeba, the total rideable area

The crescent-shaped Prince Hotel cuts an imposing resort. Â Â? Â?Â? Â?

� � �� � is 303 hectares. From Naeba, you’ll be lifted above

Lake Â? Â? Â?

figure at the base of this classic ski-in/ski-out Â? Â Â?

Tashiro to wider and less crowded slopes

resort and features all the trappings you would and better snow quality, but the area closes at 4 ­

expect from a Prince-managed resort hotel. Off the p.m. and the lift line back to Naeba can be long, Â?

mountain, there are children’s services, shops and so beware. A better option is to access the Tashiro

Â

Ropeway on Route 17. You can then  �

traverse€

Â?

across other amenities and, on the mountain, a terrain

Tashiro in about 40 minutes to Kagura, a popular park, kids park, family snow park and more. Naeba backcountry zone and a great option for early and is connected to Kagura, Tashiro, and Mitsumata area has a small late season skiing. The Mitsumata ski areas via the "Dragondola," which travels 5.5

boarder's park, a few jumps and two good slopes

kilometers in just 20 minutes, so there Â? Â?

are 55 trails  � �� � �� � for learning.

Accessible by the Mitsumata Ropeway

Â? Â? Â?

Â? Â Â?

explore if you have the time.

on Route 17.

Park

ACCESS

By Train: Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo to Echigo Yuzawa Station (77 minutes) then take the local bus to Naeba Ski Resort (50 minutes)

30 | TRAVELER

ACCESS

By Train: Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo to Echigo Yuzawa Station (77 minutes) then take the local bus to Kagura Ski Resort (30 minutes)

GALA YUZAWA SNOW RESORT

(0257) 85-6543 Dec. 12 - May 5

Yuzawa, Niigata

https://gala.co.jp/winter/english/ 8:00  - 17:00

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ5,200 ÂĽ2,600

Park

If you want a quick, convenient day-trip from Tokyo, you can’t get any easier than GALA Yuzawa. The ski resort has its very own bullet train and train station that doubles as the ski center. The amazing efficiency means you won’t be alone on the hill. However, get up to the mountain, get in a few runs with friends and be back in time to buy your favorite designer goods in Harajuku. The resort is geared toward recreation and families with kids, but it does connect to other resorts, so there are more options for serious skiers. And if you just want to have fun in the snow for a day with friends, you can’t beat the convenience.

Park

IWAPPARA

Yuzawa, Niigata 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,300 ÂĽ2,500

Park

40% 2

Beginner Lifts

40% 2

IntermediateStaAdvanced

By Train and Shuttle Bus: 77 minutes from Tokyo Station to Beginner Echigo Yuzawa Lifts Gondola tion then shuttle bus from Echigo Yuzawa Station (10 minutes)

NASPA NEW OTANI

20

courses

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,300 ÂĽ3,300

Advanced

40% 7

20%

20%

Longest Course: 4,000m Top Elevation: 985m Base Elevation: 400m

20

courses

Longest Course: 4,000m Top Elevation: 985m Base Elevation: 400m

Park

NASPA is a relatively new ski resort (opened in 1992) whose claim to fame is being one of the last skiers-only resorts left in Japan.

The ski hill is behind the deluxe New Otani Hotel. The resort definitely caters toward families who ski and want to stay in luxury.

Guests can enjoy the excellent hot springs, Jacuzzis, a swimming pool, fitness center and a selection of restaurants. Its location near the station makes for a quick, convenient ski weekend from Tokyo, if you want to get in a few turns (on skis) with the family.

Beginner Lifts

38% 2

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

37% 1

25% 2

8

courses

37% 1

25% 2

Longest Course: 2.2km Top Elevation: 690m Base Elevation: 430m

Longest Course: 2.2km Top Elevation: 690m Base Elevation: 430m

8 Beginner Yuzawa Intermediate StaAdvanced

By Train and Free Shuttle Bus: Joetsu Shinkansen to Echigo courses Lifts Gondola tion (77 minutes) then free shuttle bus to NASPA Ski Garden (5 minutes)

JOETSU KOKUSAI SKI RESORT

38% 2

Park

Park

(025) 782-1028 Dec. 5 - Apr. 4

Intermediate Gondola

40% 7

Yuzawa, Niigata

(025) 780-6888 www.naspanewotani.com 8:30 - 17:00 Dec. 24 - Mar. 28

Minamiuonuma, Niigata

www.jkokusai.co.jp 8:00 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00)

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,300 ÂĽ2,500

One of the largest ski resorts in Japan, Joetsu Kokusai boasts four zones catering to different levels that satisfied a wide range of skiers and snowboarders. There is a kids park right outside the hotel, rentals and ski school programs for beginners. Enjoy soaking in an onsen and dining on local cuisine after a day on the slopes. There are also free events held throughout the season.

Park

Â? Â

 Â?  Â? Â? Â

Â? Â

ACCESS

16

Iwappara is one of the more popular resorts in the Yuzawa area. It is extremely convenient from the station (10 minutes) by shuttle bus, so it is quite possible to do a day trip from Tokyo. The main course is very wide open, making it a great place for beginners to practice their turns without fear of being run over by a speedy skier (or vice versa). The views from the top are nice, and the village area around the ski area has a nice selection of restaurants.

ACCESS

16

By Train: 75 minutes from Tokyo Station to GALA Yuzawa Station  � courses � � � �

By Car: 5 minutes from Yuzawa I.C. (Kanetsu Expressway)

(025) 787-3211 www.iwa-ppara.com Dec. 24 - Mar. 28 8:00 - 19:00 (17:00 - 19:00) (Saturdays: 8:00 - 20:00)

ACCESS

 � � � courses � �

Park

ACCESS

Â

Yuzawa Station Â?  (77 Â? Â? Â

By Train: Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo to Echigo minutes) then train to Joetsu Kokusai (12 minutes)

Winter 2021 | 31

MYOKO SUGINOHARA

(0255) 86-6211 www.princehotels.co.jp/ski/myoko Dec. 24 - End of Mar. 8:30 - 16:30

Myoko, Niigata Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

ÂĽ4,800 FREE

Park

Myoko Kogen is simply one of the naturally prettiest ski areas in Japan. Suginohara is part of Prince Hotels (although there is no hotel here), and the facilities are well maintained. The runs above the gondola are where advanced skiers and powder hounds will have the most fun. The resort has 17 trails, a terrain park, kids sledding area (ask about kids skiing free) and six onhill restaurants. Suginohara also boasts one of Japan’s longest top-to-bottom, an 8.5-kilometer thigh burner that will test anyone’s meddle if left for the last run of the day. The stunning view of Lake Nojiri below from the gondola makes it worth the trip alone.

40% 1

40% 2

Park

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

40% 2

20% 2

40% 1

16

courses

Longest Co Top Eleva Base Ele

Park

Longest Course: 8,500m

ACCESS

16 Top Elevation: 1,855m Intermediate

By Train: 120 minutes from Tokyo Station to MyokoBeginner KogenGondola StationAdvanced courses Lifts Base Elevation: 731m

By Car: 180 minutes from Tokyo

AKAKURA ONSEN

Akakura Onsen, Niigata

(0255) 87-2125 www.akakura-ski.com 8:30 - 22:00 (17:00 - 22:00) Dec. 12 - Beg. of Apr.

Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

ÂĽ4,800 ÂĽ1,000

Akakura Ski Resort is located at the bottom of Mt. Myoko and is the largest resort in the Myoko Heights area. The resort has a nice variety of courses as well as powder stashes and some challenging courses on the old “Champions� side of the mountain. The town’s hot springs date back to 1814, and there is no better way to finish off a day on the mountain. The Akakura Resort & Spa sits majestically on the slopes. It’s a great place to stay if you want ski in/ski out luxury. The area averages about 13 meters of snow annually, so there is plenty of fluffy stuff, and it has a pleasant natural beauty. Akakura has a nice variety of courses, but the most challenging runs are on the old “Champions� side of the mountain.

Park

Â? Â? Â?Â? Â Â? Â? Â Â?

Â

Â?Â? Â Â?

By Train: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hr., 45 min.), Â? Â?

then take the Â

Â? Â Â?

JR Shinetsu Honsen Line to Myoko Kogen Station, then 10 minutes by bus Park

ACCESS

Park

SEKI ONSEN

Seki Onsen, Niigata

(0255) 82-2316 www.sekionsen.com 9:00 - 17:00 End of Dec. - Beg. of May

Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

ÂĽ3,800 ÂĽ2,800

Seki is the highest ski area in the Myoko Kogen area and, even though there are just two lifts, there is access to many powder runs. This is a locals mountain, and they check the weather reports and know when the storms will hit, sometimes dropping one or two meters of new snow overnight. It pays to get up early if you want first tracks. Don’t expect groomers; this is natural terrain and free riding at its finest: tree runs, natural pipes and some good hits.

Park

20% 1

30% 1

Park

Beginner Lifts

20% 1

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

30% 1

50%

Longest Co Top Eleva

6

courses Base Eleva

Park

ACCESS

Beginner Intermediate Advanced

By Train: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hr., 45 min.), then take the JR Shinetsu Honsen Line to Sekiyama Station, then 20 min.Lifts by taxi Gondola

CHARMANT HIUCHI

(025) 568-2244 http://charmant-hiuchi.jp 8:30 - 16:30 Dec. 18 - May 5

Longest Course: 1,600m Top Elevation: 1,620m

6

courses Base Elevation: 1,000m Itoigawa, Niigata

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,000 ÂĽ3,000

Charmant is a locally owned and operated ski resort most of your friends do not know about but may wish they did. The resort is literally right on the Japan Sea (you can see it from the top lifts) and gets some of the heaviest snow dumps around. It is also a healthy drive from Tokyo (four hours), but is worth the trip if you enjoy short lift lines and uncrowded slopes. There are lots of ungroomed areas and advanced terrain including a 1,000-meter powder course. The proximity to the sea means there is some excellent seafood nearby as well, and you can ski straight through Golden Week.

Park

20% 1 Park

Beginner Lifts

20% 1

Intermediate Gondola

Advanced

45% 2

35%

Park

ACCESS

32 | TRAVELER

Beginner From Intermediate Car access is recommended: Train and bus service is inconvenient.

TokyoAdvanced Gondola it takes 4 hours by car, depending on traffic and weather Lifts

45% 2

16

courses

Longest Course: 2,700m Top Elevation: 1,009m Base Elevation: 501m

16

courses

Longest Co Top Eleva Base Ele

JAPAN SNOW GUIDE 2021

WinterEvents Snowshoeing at Niseko Village

This snow season has all the makings of an epic year for Tokyo residents and travelers. Tons of snow, discounted travel fares and less people on the slopes. While many events are up in the air, there are fun activities and specials you should check out while exploring Japan’s ski resorts. Travel safe and enjoy the white season in Japan.

HOKKAIDO

Niseko Shootout and Film Festival Niseko’s winter photography competition is back. Any photo posted on Instagram and hashtagged #NisekoShootout is eligible for exciting prizes including a Gentemstick Snowboard, Roko skis and a Niseko United season pass. Photos will be judged within skiing, snowboarding and landscapes categories.

The Niseko Shootout Film Festival on Mar. 13 will showcase the best Niseko-themed short films and photographs taken during the previous 15 months.

When: Until Mar. 13 Where: Niseko, Hokkaido Web: www.nisekotourism.com Hanazono Slopestyle S k i e r s a n d s n o w b o a rd e r s a re judged on a standard Slopestyle format, running through a custombuilt park at Hanazono Slopestyle.

Bring your best tricks, as this competition attracts the best park riders from near and far. Online registration is ¥1,000 and walkin registration ¥1,500. Online registration starts Feb. 22 to Mar. 13.

When: Mar. 14 Where: Hanazono Niseko, Hokkaido Web: www.hanazononiseko.com

Hanazono Banked Slalom The Hanazono Banked Slalom time trial race is held in the Hanazono quarter pipe and main park. Hand-dug banked turns are blended with the existing terrain park area to create a unique course for skiers and snowboarders. Prizes are awarded to the fastest in each category. Online registration is ¥2,000 and walk-in registration ¥2,500. Online registration from Mar. 8 to Mar. 27.

When: Mar. 28 Where: Hanazono Niseko, Hokkaido Web: www.hanazononiseko.com Family-friendly Fun in Niseko Get in the holiday spirit with your little ones by reindeer sledding around the resort or hop on a thrilling snow rafting ride.

There are also snowshoeing and snowmobile tours.

Where: Niseko Village, Hokkaido Web: www.niseko-village.com

Hanazono Slopestyle

First Tracks at Mt. Isola Enjoy 3,500 meters of first tracks on the Isola Grand Course for intermediate riders and powder riding on the Heavenly Canyon Course. Every Sunday morning in January and February Rusutsu opens its mountain for early risers.

Pick up your First Tracks ticket at the Rusutsu Hotel at 8:15 (booking required) then hop on the free shuttle bus that takes you to Mt. Isola and you’ll be on the gondola by 8:45.

When: Every Sunday Jan. and Feb. Where: Rusutsu Resort, Hokkaido Web: www.rusutsu.com Kamori Wonder Lights Rusutsu Resort features a projection mapping show this winter telling the Ainu story. The projection mapping is cast onto the hotel’s large glass screen and you can enjoy the show from inside and outside the hotel. Shows are held daily between 4 p.m. and 10 p.m.

When: Dec. 10 - Apr. 3 Where: Rusutsu Resort, Hokkaido Web: www.rusutsu.com First Tracks at Mt. Isola

Winter 2021 | 33

First Tracks at Yakebitaiyama

NIIGATA

Gala Yuzawa’s 30th Anniversary Gala Yuzawa celebrates 30 years this season with an Instagram photo contest and prize giveaways for travelers using the Weekday View shinkansen and lift ticket package. Prizes include Salomon skis and snowboards and lift passes.

Enter to win the photo contest by following @galayuzawa_official and posting a photo tagged #gala30th フ ォ ト コ ン . Other events are still being planned.

Where: Gala Yuzawa, Niigata Web: www.gala.co.jp/winter/ Children’s Mini Triathlon Children three to nine-yearsold can enter this three-part race that starts with “swimming” (rather, crawling) over snow, running and finally racing on snow striders. The race is held every weekend until Mar. 28. There is also a sled race on Jan. 24, Feb. 23 and Mar. 20.

When: Every Saturday until Mar. 28 Where: Joetsu Kokusai, Niigata Web: www.jkokusai.co.jp Snow Wow Park

NAGANO

Rewild Ninja Snow Highland This ski resort formerly k n o w n as M ineno ha ra Ko gen has reopened as Rewild Ninja Snow Highland after a two-year hiatus. It is located on the western side of Mt. Azumaya in central Nagano, near Sugadaira Kogen.

The resort has two lifts running and eight courses. As the name suggests, this ninja-themed resort has some interesting activities such as renting Snowfeet, ski-shoe attachments that turn your boots into ski skates. Try your hand at ice climbing, fly through the air in a human bungee slingshot and enjoy the views from the two-person giant swing. There’s also a zipline for children. At night, enjoy an illuminated lights show and relax with a hot drink in a kamakura igloo. Lift passes are ¥3,900 for adults and ¥1,900 for kids. Activity costs are separate.

When: Until Mar. 28 Where: Suzaka, Nagano Web: www.rewild-ninja-snowhighland.com Snow Wow Park This unique adventure park in the snow is fun for children and adults alike. Sign up for snow rafting or tobogganing, try out snow skateboarding or fat biking.

There is also a net obstacle course where kids can climb and enjoy bird’s eye views safely. The park is located at the base of Tsugaike Kogen ski resort’s gondola.

When: Until Mar. 21 Where: Tsugaike Mountain Resort, Nagano Web: www.nsd-hakuba.jp/snow_ wow Rewild Ninja Snow Highland

34 | TRAVELER

Tsugaike Kogen Firework Festival

Tsugaike Kogen Firework Festival Hakuba area’s biggest firework show is held annually in March 6.

When: Mar. 6 Where: Tsugaike Mountain Resort, Nagano Web: www.tsugaike.gr.jp Hakuba Mountain Harbor Take a break from riding with a cup of coffee, lunch and baked goods at Hakuba’s terraced cafe located on top of Hakuba Iwatake Mountain Resort. This cafe, at 1,289 meters, is open year round and provides scenic views of the Iwatake peaks, the Japan Alps and Karamatsuzawa Snow Valley. The gondola takes eight minutes from the foot of the mountain station to the top.

Where: Hakuba Iwatake Mountain Resort Web: www.iwatake-mountainresort.com First Tracks at Yakebitaiyama The mountain will open for first tracks from 7:50 a.m. every weekend until Mar. 29 (and Mar. 20). Tickets are ¥1,500 and must be booked by 5 p.m. the previous day.

First tracks are also available for free on weekdays to Seibu Prince Club members.

If you have a special event planned, you can book out the resort for night skiing between until Apr. 3 outside of regular operating hours. There are also snowshoe and snowmobile tours and a kids’ park.

Where: Yakebitaiyama Ski Resort, Nagano Web: www.princehotels.com/en/ ski/shiga_kogen

Hakuba Mountain Harbor

Nozawa Onsen’s New Gondola The new gondola whisks skiers and snowboarders from Nagasaka Station to Yamabiko in only eight minutes (half the time the previous gondo). The middle station has been removed and the track goes straight to the top. The gondola seats up to ten riders. In the green season, mountain bikers and hikers can use this gondola to enjoy the mountain.

When: Until May 9 Where: Nozawa Onsen, Nagano Web: www.nozawaski.com The Dojo Nozawa An unused dojo has been refurbished into a social gathering space and bouldering gym just a stone’s throw from Nagasaka Gondola in Nozawa Onsen. The gathering space will host events, films and yoga classes. There’s also a cafe and bar. The Dojo is open weekdays and Saturdays from 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. and Sundays from 12 p.m. to 8 p.m. Closed Tuesdays.

Where: Nozawa Onsen, Nagano We b : w w w. f a c e b o o k . c o m / nozawaonsen.thedojo/ Pulse Gondola Opens in Shiga Kogen Japan’s first pulse gondola provides easier and faster access to riders in Shiga Kogen this season.

Pulse gondolas are fixed-grip CPT systems featuring cabins grouped together rather than spaced evenly across the cable. The short 400-meter journey will take just 90 seconds, making it easy to get over to Takamagahara, Terakoya, I c h i n o s e , Ya k e b i t a i y a m a a n d Okushiga areas. This new gondola is located next to the Shiga Kogen Yama-no-eki building across the tourism infor mation center in Hasuike and takes riders to the Giant ski area.

Where: Shiga Kogen, Nagano Web: www.shigakogen-ski.com

Discounts at Blue Resort Norikura Look out for all the discounts at Norikura! If you come dressed up in a costume on any fourth Sunday until March, you are e l i g i b l e f o r a f re e l i f t t i c k e t .

Every third Sunday until March, elementary school children ride free. Half-day passes are available for women on Mondays, Nagano residents on Tuesdays, everyone on Wednesdays, seniors over 55 on Thursdays and residents not from Nagano on Fridays.

Where: Blue Resort Norikura, Nagano Web: www.brnorikura.jp

GUNMA

Hodaigi Ground Cup This annual freestyle contest with cash prizes open to everyone with an entry fee of ¥4,000. There is also a slopestyle contest held the Sunday before.

When: Mar. 28 Where: Ski Resort Hodaigi, Gunma

TOCHIGI

Haga Farm and Glamping Enjoy winter glamping at Haga Farm and Glamping in Tochigi, a luxury campsite part of the Reiwa Golf Resort. Visitors have access to a magnificent 27-hole golf course and an onsen. Each glamping dome and deck area can sleep up to four people and boasts beds, a kotatsu (heated table), air conditioning, and Wi-Fi. There’s also a fully covered outdoor kitchen with a fully stocked fridge. Each unit has a private toilet, shower and bath. A six-course seasonal BBQ feast is the highlight of the evening and the winter course features salad, fondue, seafood or chicken broth, a mixed BBQ plate, a selection of fine steaks and dessert. Vegetarian options are also available.

Where: Haga, Tochigi Web: www.reiwagolfresort.com

Ha

a rm ga F

a nd

G la m

ping

Winter 2021 | 35

GUNMA

Kawaba

Minakami Houdaigi

Okutone Snow Park Tenjindaira Tanigawadake

Oze Iwakura

Norn Minakami Manza Onsen Kusatsu Kokusai

W

hile neighboring Niigata gets most of the attention, Gunma quietly has some great snow resorts of its own. Located in northeast Gunma near the border with Niigata, Minakami has 10 ski resorts and is just 90 minutes from Tokyo. Oze Katashina is another quality area that flies under the radar. Katashina Town lies in the shadows of mighty Mt. Hotaka and Mt. Shirane and features nearby resorts such as the popular Oze Iwakura, Hotaka Bokujo, a boarder’s park, and Oguna Hotaka, a nice mid-sized resort. Manza, to the east of Katashina, the popular ski and onsen areas of Manza and Kusatsu Resort & Spa are great places to relax before or after a good day on the mountain.

MINAKAMI HOUDAIGI

Minakami, Gunma

OKUTONE SNOW PARK

(0278) 72-8101 Dec. 19 - Apr. 4

(0278) 75-2557 www.hodaigi.jp Dec. 12 - Beg. of Apr. 8:30 - 16:30 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,500 ÂĽ3,000

Minakami Houdaigi ski resort is the largest in the Minakami area. The resort, due to

the higher elevation, also gets good quality snow. Although there are many beginner and

intermediate runs, there are a few advanced

�� � courses as well, including a killer  �

40-degree

Â?

slope and a 2,600-meter cruiser. Â? Â

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 minutes) then bus to Houdaigi (70 minutes) Minakami, Gunma

(0278)-72-6688 www.norn.co.jp 8:00 - 22:00/24:00 (16:30 - 24:00) Dec. 18 - Mar. 31 1 DAY TICKET

Park

30% 5

 � �� � �

NORN MINAKAMI

ÂĽ4,200 FREE

40% 1

Park

Â? Â

ACCESS

Adults Kids

1 DAY TICKET

Park

Minakami, Gunma

www.okutone.jp 8:00 - 22:00 (weekends & holidays 6:00 - 24:00)

pipes and jumps are your thing, Okutone ski If rails,

area

is the place to go in Minakami. The park staff takes

Beginner

Intermediate

Advanced

Lifts Gondola good care of guests who come to perfect their style at the resort’s park. The night sessions are popular, 40% 30% 30% since they keep the lights on until midnight on Friday and Saturday nights and before national holidays. The 5 1 north-facing courses have nice snow quality, and you can enjoy some turns on the 3,900-meter long course.

Okutone is just two hours from Tokyo, making it super Longest Course: 3,000m convenient. They offer free tickets to kids under 12 and Top Elevation: 1,083m Beginner Intermediate Advanced courses Base Elevation: 550m Lifts on weekdays.

Gondola free coffee if you come before 10 a.m.

10

courses

Longest Co Top Eleva Base Elev

Park

10

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 minutes) then bus to Okutone (40 minutes)

TENJINDAIRA TANIGAWADAKE

Minakami, Gunma

(0278) 72-3575 www.tanigawadake-rw.com 8:30 - 16:30 Beg. of Dec. - Beg. of May Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,500 ÂĽ3,600

1 DAY TICKET

Park

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,000 ÂĽ2,500

Park

30% 2

50% 2

30% 1

20%

40 4

Park Park

Situated just three kilometers from the Minakami Interchange, Norn Minakami is the most convenient of the Minakami Resorts if you are coming by car.

The resort is great for families. They’ve created “family zones� where the average slope is just 13 degrees and a Day Care Center where parents can drop off the little ones and enjoy some time on the mountain themselves. Norn is open from 7 a.m. to midnight on weekends, so you can enjoy a long day on the slopes and, like all Minakami resorts, it Beginner Intermediate Advanced is not far from some great hot springs.

Lifts Park

ACCESS

Although Tenjindaira is better known to most Course:in2,000m Longest C forLongest trekking summer, when the tram is packed 5 10 Top Elev Tophikers, Elevation:the 1,220m Beginner Intermediate Advanced Beginner Intermediate Advanced resort is a popular stop on the courseswithBase courses Lifts Lifts Gondola Elevation: 820m Base El backcountry trail. The resort itself is relatively small, but lift lines are usually short and the snow 40% 30% 30% 20% 20% 60% quality can be excellent if it’s not too windy up top.

However, the secret to “Tenjin� is off the main trails.

1 4 2 2 Those who like their riding steep and deep head for the backcountry. This is “enter at your own risk� territory and not a place to go without avalanche Longest Course: 4,000m Longest Course: 2,000m gear (and the knowledge how to use it). Better yet, 10 Top Elevation: 1,500m 5 Top Elevation: 1,220m Intermediate and Advanced hire one of the knowledgeableBeginner local guides courses courses Base Elevation: 820m Lifts Gondola Base Elevation: 750m enjoy some "Japow!"

By Train: 150 minutes from Tokyo Station to Minakami Station, then free shuttle. By Car: 90 minutes from Tokyo (Nerima IC) via Kanetsu Expressway

36 | TRAVELER

Park

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Takasaki Station, then change to the Joetsu Line to Minakami Station, then 20 minutes by bus to Tenjindaira

KAWABA

Kawaba, Gunma

(0278) 52-3345 www.kawaba.co.jp Dec. 5 - End of Mar. 8:30 - 16:00

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,900 ÂĽ3,600

There’s something different about Kawaba.

You’ll notice it the first time you pull into the covered parking area of the eight-story Kawaba City center house. There are six floors of parking and the seventh and eighth floors are filled with restaurants and ski/board shops.

On the mountain, Kawaba is progressive as well with a nice balance of park and powder.

Within the 10,790 meters of skiable terrain is the “Powder Zone,� a section of the mountain left ungroomed for powder lovers. There is a good mogul course, the Free Ride Park (back by popular demand) and a 3,300-meter trail for cruising. Kawaba City also includes a ski school, kids corner and locker rooms.

A little-known place awesome for Skiing & Snowboarding

Park

20% 3 Park

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

20% 3

40% 1

Advanced

40% 1

10

40%

40%

MINAKAMI 1 1 GUNMA Longest Course: 2,000m Top Elevation: 2,020m

courses Base Elevation: 1,290m Ski &

Alpine Lodge Snowboard Lessons Backcountry tours Snowshoe tours

Park

Longest Course: 2,000m

10 Top Elevation: 2,020m Beginner

By Train and Shuttle Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 Intermediate minutes),Advanced courses ACCESS then a 50-minute shuttle bus ride to Kawaba Lifts Gondola Base Elevation: 1,290m

KUSATSU ONSEN

Kusatsu, Gunma

(0279) 88-8111 www.932-onsen.com 8:30 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00) Dec. 12 - Apr. 4

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,000 ÂĽ3,000

Although Kusatsu is famous as one of the country’s best onsen resorts, the area also features a quality ski resort that has been around since the Taisho Era and is open nearly six months out of the year. Kusatsu Snow & Spa has a zipline, Kids Square where the little ones can enjoy activities such as snow tubing, and a variety of courses for all levels. However, ­ the best part of being at Kusatsu is the fact you can enjoy some world-famous hot springs after a great day on the mountain.

Park ­

MANZA ONSEN

+81-278-72-2811

M.O.C Nagata

Â? Â

 Â? Â

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Karuizawa Station from Tokyo (72 Â? Â? Â ACCESS minutes), then 55 min. by direct bus from Karuizawa Station

www.canyons.jp

Â? Â

 Â?  Â? Â? Â

Tsumagoi, Gunma

(0279) 97-3117 www.princehotels.co.jp/ski/manza/winter 8:30 - 16:30 Dec. 12 - Mar. 28

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,700 FREE

Manza Onsen is another of Prince Resorts signature properties, and the hotel’s buildings command an imposing presence at the bottom of the hill. The resort features a lot of good beginner and intermediate runs and is a great place for families. There are not a lot of challenging runs for advanced skiers, but the scenery is beautiful, the snow quality excellent as it is one of Japan’s highest resorts and the hotel has a nice rotenburo (outdoor bath) for after-ski soaking. The facilities and amenities are on a par with what you’d expect from Prince Resorts, making for a stress-free ski experience.

Park

Â

Â? Â?

Â

Â? Â?

ACCESS

By Train & Bus: Shinkansen to Takasaki Station (50 minutes) then to Manza-kazawaguchi

Onsen

Station (90 minutes). Then change to the Seibu Kanko Bus to Manza (50 minutes).

OZE IWAKURA

Katashina, Gunma

(0278) 58-7777 www.oze-iwakura.co.jp/ski Dec. 19 - Beg. of Apr. 8:15 - 17:00 (17:00 - 21:00 on Dec. 31, Jan. 9,10, 30, Feb. 6, 13, 20)

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ5,000 ÂĽ2,900

Oze Iwakura is only 150 minutes from Tokyo and one of the top ski resorts in the Kanto region for its variety of slopes and powder snow especially at the 1,700-meter peak. There are 16 courses for all levels of riding, and a kids park. There are also six uncompacted snow courses for powderhounds. Advanced riders can hike up Nishiyama and enjoy backcountry skiing. There are two ski-in, ski-out hotels on the slopes. After a day of riding, relax in hot springs and enjoy Japanese culture. From Tokyo, take a direct highway bus from Shinjuku or a shuttle bus from Jomokogen Station. Â? Â?

Park

Â?

Â? Â?

Â

Â?

Â?

SNOWBOARD WITH THE LOCALS

Nagano

Â?

ACCESS

By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 minutes) then by bus to

 Oze Iwakura (80 min.)

Winter 2021 | 37

â—Š Niseko Alaska â—Š USA â—Š Canada www.cloudlinetours.com

GIFU Takasu Snow Park Dynaland

A

s far as resorts in central Honshu go, Gifu gets much less attention than Nagano, Niigata and Gunma. Nonetheless there are a number of quality resorts in the region that primarily service the Nagoya and Kansai regions. Less than a couple hours from the main Gifu ski resorts is the Edo-style town of Takayama, known as “Little Kyoto.� Takayama’s master carpenters built some beautiful shrines and temples here at the base of the Japan Alps. Also in the region, along the border of Gifu and Toyama prefectures are the World Heritage villages of Shirakawa-go and Gokoyama, known for the thatched roof houses built in gassho-zukuri (praying hands) style. These A-frame farmhouses are constructed to withstand the heavy snowfall that blankets the region each year. If you are looking for good skiing and mixing in some great cultural experiences, Gifu is a great winter destination.

TAKASU SNOW PARK

(0575) 72-7000 www.takasu.gr.jp 8:00 - 16:30 Mid-Dec. - May 5

Takasu, Gifu 1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,900 ÂĽ2,100

Takasu is well known to park riders. The resort has a large free ride park that includes kickers, rails, boxes and one of the biggest super pipes in Japan. There is also a 600-meter professional boarder cross course and a mogul course.

The resort is the training grounds for many of Japan’s rising stars and has hosted a number of competitions including the FIS Snowboard World Cup. Aside from the amazing pipe and park, winter sports enthusiasts of all levels can enjoy the open-faced free ride terrain including a 4,800-meter trail, one of longest in western Japan, and several other 4,000-meter trails.

There are even some backcountry tours through Dainichi Valley.

Park

35% 1

35% 3

Park

Beginner Lifts

Intermediate Gondola

35% 1

35% 3

Advanced

12

courses

Longest Co Top Eleva Base Elev

30%

Park

ACCESS

12 Beginner Intermediate Advanced

By Bus: A bus leaves Nagoya at 8 a.m. stopping at both Takasu courses Lifts Gondola and Dynaland. The trip takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes

DYNALAND

Longest Course: 4,800m Top Elevation: 1,550m Base Elevation: 950m

Takasu, Gifu

(0575) 72-6636 www.dynaland.co.jp 8:00 - 16:30 Mid-Dec. to Beg. of Apr.

1 DAY TICKET

Adults Kids

ÂĽ4,900 ÂĽ2,100

Dynaland is the largest of the Takasu ski resorts.

There are 19 runs; the longest a 3,200-meter thigh burner. There is a shared ticket to neighboring Takasu Snow Park and two places on the mountain that connect the resorts. If you want to get out on the slopes first thing in the morning, the Hotel Villa Mon-Saint is right in front of the resort, and there are 6 a.m. openings for first tracks on selected dates. The resort has featured a resident DJ who will take music requests, and you can do some good for Mother Nature while having a lunch break since the Dynaland Eco Project collects proceeds from resort restaurants to support a Gifu tree planting project. Night skiing runs until 11 p.m.

Park

Â? Â?

 � �

Â? Â?

ACCESS

By Bus: A bus leaves Nagoya at 8 a.m. stopping at both Takasu

Â

and Dynaland. The trip takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes Â? Â?

38 | TRAVELER

Autumn 2020 | 39