Outdoor Japan Traveler | Issue 78 |Spring 2021

IS S UE 78

SPRING 2021

Birds’ Eye View of

Hokkaido

Top 5 Tohoku Spring Hikes Cycling Beneath the Eight Peaks Less is More in Kamikatsu Modern Day Samurai Spring Escapes ‘ Sunday Market Oitas ‘ Adventure Capital Izus Sustainable Glamping

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ISSUE 78

SPRING 2021

22

BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF HOKKAIDO INSIDE

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Guide Lines: Spring Escapes

Cycling Beneath the Eight Peaks

Izu's Adventure Capital

Less is More in Kamikatsu

From the Editor. . . . . . . . . 5 Covid Cornhole . . . . . . . . . 8 Market Watch. . . . . . . . . . . 9

Northern Tohoku's Top 5 Spring Hikes

Modern Day Samurai

Sustainable Glamping. . . . 24 Haga Farm Glamping . . . . 26 Travel Directory. . . . . . . . . 28 Spring 2021 | 3

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Published Seasonally

F r om t h eEdi t o r

PUBLISHER Outdoor Japan G.K.

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his issue has felt like a trip down memory lane. The late 90’s were a memorable time to be in Japan. There were some colorful characters and it seemed like many of my crazy friends were building some interesting businesses. It was a creative time with the Internet booming and travelers to Japan starting to get off the beaten track. Outdoor Japan was born during this halcyon period and a few of the old guard featured in this issue contributed to the momentum that drew intrepid visitors to explore Japan’s great outdoors.

Paul Chetwynd was an elite class mountain biker for years in Japan back in the day and I’m still certain he could dust off an old racing bib and finish top ten in any race he enters. He’s been guiding custom MTB tours since his days competing and has created a very cool new base in southern Nagano in the shadow of Yatsugatake’s eight peaks. Find out more about what drew him there and how Yatsugatake Cycling is helping visitors explore the area.

Burkey (Mike Burke) has been a long-time fixture in Minakami helping design and build Canyons Alpine Lodge and residential homes for many in the area. His latest project is bringing high-quality glamping tents and luxury glamping lodges to Japan that are built to deal with the unique conditions here.

Glamping is a great activity for friends and families to get away during these times. Kieron Cashell has been involved with media and golf in Japan for a couple decades and has created a glamping destination called Haga Farm in Tochigi. It’s part of the Reiwa Golf Resort and offers some cool stay and play packages.

Also in Tochigi, Rie Miyoshi talks to Daniel No, an Australian training in the art of yabusame (horseback archery) who recently had the honor of being selected first rider to usher in the Reiwa Era. And there’s Ben Kerr up in Hokkaido. I’ve known Ben since he was raft guiding in Niseko before the boom and he’s continued to ride the wave, building several successful businesses from real estate to organic farming. His latest passion is Niseko Aviation and I caught up with him to learn more about becoming a pilot and flying his XCub in Japan.

Quinlan Faris has hiked just about every mountains in Tohoku and has shared his top five spring hikes with us. He’s also created a fun, informative YouTube channel called Go North Japan where you can dive even deeper into Tohoku, a beautiful, resilient region.

It’s hard to believe ten years has passed since the Great Tohoku Earthquake affected so many people in Japan. A decade later we are enduring another unforeseen crisis that has permeated nearly every part of our daily lives—jobs, relationships, health, mental well being—and how we as a collective navigate this global crisis is what will define us for years to come.

One thing it has definitely taught us is if you are going to do something, do it now. Travel restrictions vary depending on your area, but if you are traveling responsibly and taking precautions for you and your family’s situation, there are countless options for responsible travel to beautiful areas around Japan this spring. Road trips, hiking trips, rafting trips, cycling trips are all possible with a little planning—particularly now without the crowds. Enjoy all the travel tips and ideas in this spring issue and get the most out of this beautiful season in Japan!

DIRECTORS Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Gardner Robinson MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR Rie Miyoshi CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Bill Ross CONTRIBUTORS Joan Bailey, Linda Ding, Quinlan Faris DESIGN Outdoor Japan

OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. 45 Yubiso, Minakami-machi, Tone-gun, Gunma-ken 〒 379-1728 EDITORIAL INQUIRIES editor@outdoorjapan.com VIDEO / MEDIA PRODUCTION media@outdoorjapan.com SPONSORSHIP / PROMOTIONS media@outdoorjapan.com DESTINATION MARKETING media@outdoorjapan.com

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—Gardner Robinson Editor-in-Chief

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©2021 OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Views expressed herein are not necessarily those of OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. Printed in Japan.

Cover Photo: Niseko Aviation

Spring 2021 | 5

GUIDE LINES

SPRING ESCAPES E

scape the crowded cities and trains with some exciting adventures and relaxing getaways this spring. Go with the flow as the fresh snow melt creates great canyoning and rafting conditions and lower hills and mountains uncover some excellent hiking and mountain bike paths. Japan’s many michi-no-eki (roadside stations and day trip hot springs make it an easy place for camper van travel. Further south, Okinawa’s clear waters offer world-class diving, snorkeling and surfing.

CAMPING & GLAMPING Camp along a scenic river while enjoying local craft beer at Baird Brewing Shuzenji Gardens. The state-of-the-art brewery is on the banks of the scenic Kano River in Shuzenji on the Izu peninsula. The campground next to the brewery has expanded to include two new areas: “Dark Sky” and “West Coast” after popular Baird seasonal brews. They will feature refurbished cabins for group stays, a changing room with hot showers, an onsite beer station, additional space for auto camping and a stage for music events.

Where: Shuzenji, Shizuoka Web: http://camp.bairdbeer.com Wake up with a sunrise view of Mt. Fuji at Mt. Fuji Satoyama Vacation, a glamping site located just a five-minute drive from Shirato Falls. Go on a guided nature and e-bike tour around the countryside town of Fujinomiya, visit sake breweries that use Mt. Fuji’s clean meltwater, enjoy farm-to-table dining, cycle to temples built in the middle of rice paddies, hike to Hoei Crater and discover what life is like for people living near Japan’s most famous mountain.

Where: Fujinomiya, Shizuoka Web: www.satoyama-vacation.com Rejuvenate yourself at Minakami Riverside Oasis at the entrance to Joshinetsu National Park in Minakami. The site overlooks the emerald waters of the Yubiso River and is located next to Canyons, an adventure tour company that offers thrilling canyoning or rafting tour in the daytime and a delicious BBQ of select local produce under the stars at night.

Where: Minakami, Gunma Web: www.canyons.jp Immerse yourself in nature at Green Field Nozawa Onsen, an eco-friendly tree house campsite. Great for families and friends who want some privacy (or avoid crowds).

Green Field opens from Golden Week to the beginning of October. For ¥30,000 per night (¥35,000 on Saturday nights), rent this private space which comes with two tents for four people each, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, a BBQ grill and Dutch oven, LED

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lanterns and a hammock. Some water supply is provided, but it’s recommended to bring additional water to drink and cook. There is no electricity and all trash must be disposed by customers. There is a composting toilet.

Enjoy the 13 free soto-yu bathhouses located around the village.

Where: Nozawa Onsen, Nagano Web: www.nozawagreenfield.com Road trips are generally convenient as there are plenty of michi-no-eki (roadside facilities with parking lots, dining options and bathrooms) and onsen baths nationwide.

Stylish camper vans are available from the following companies who also offer Englishspeaking services.

Dream Drive Japan (Tokyo): www.dreamdrive.life Overland Campers (Tokyo): www.overlandjapan.com Japan Road Trip (Tokyo, Kanagawa, Osaka, Hokkaido): www.japanroadtrip.com Tokyo RV Campers (Tokyo): www.tokyo-rv.com Japan Campers (Tokyo): www.japancampers.com CamGo (Tokyo, Osaka): www.camgo-campervan.com Japan By Van (Osaka): www.japanbyvan.com Camp in Car (Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, Nagoya): www.japan-campervan.com Arigato Camper Rental Hokkaido (Hokkaido): www.arigatocampervan.com

CYCLING

RideJapan showcases Japan’s regional areas such as Nagano's Japan Alps and Sugura Bay and Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka.

These routes are best enjoyed in April to June as clear views of a snow-capped Mt. Fuji make for an iconic view. In summer, Hakuba, Niseko and Matsumoto provide relief from the city humidity. Guided tours are fully suppor ted and balance qualit y cycling and immersive cultural experiences.

Self-guided tours include premium bike rentals, GPS routes and unit rentals and accommodation.

Web: www.ridejapan.cc H a k u b a’s m o u n t a i n r a n g e i s t h e b ac kd ro p to a growing mo unt ain bike scene. Evergreen Outdoor Center offers something for every rider: relaxed fun rides for beginners and introductor y downhill riding to advanced downhill tours at Iwatake Mountain Bike Park. Customizable free ride private tours also available.

Where: Hakuba, Nagano We b: w w w.eve r g r e e n - ha k u b a.co m / mountain-biking Cycle along a 1,200-year-old pilgrimage road with Yamabushi Trail Tour in historic Matsuzaki on the Izu peninsula. Matsuzaki’s close proximit y to both mountains and the ocean make it a unique region for mountain biking. Experienced trail riders can challenge themselves to walls, banked

turns, switchbacks and rock faces carved out of bedrock. Beginner-friendly mountain bike tours and kayak fishing are also available.

Where: Matsuzaki, Shizuoka Web: www.yamabushi-trail-tour.com Enjoy mountain biking with Compass House in Nozawa Onsen. When the s ki resor t closes af ter Golden Week e x p e r i e n c e d r i d e r s c a n t a ke t h e n e w Nagasaka Gondola up the mountain to enjoy a ten-kilometer trail (700 meters of ver tical). Downhill lessons and tours for beginners are also available. The Compass House crew also create custom tours, and e-bikes and MTB rentals are available.

Where: Nozawa Onsen, Nagano Web: www.compasshouse.jp Discover the story behind all the lucky cats at Gotokuji Temple, enjoy a vegan lunch and other local eateries and go beyond Tokyo’s tourist trails with Freewheeling Japan located within easy reach of Shinjuku and Yoyogi Park. A full-day course runs from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and covers 15 to 20 kilometers. Night rides are recommended during summer.

Where: Sasazuka, Tokyo Web: www.freewheeling.jp

TREETOP ADVENTURES Ta k e t h e c h a l l e n g e t h r o u g h 13 0 obstacles and two acres of treetop adventure fun at Niseko Adventure C e n t r e. H o k k a i d o ’s b i g g e s t t r e e t o p adventure park is open year round and has beginner, experienced and children-friendly courses. There is a cafe and indoor climbing wall back at the NAC base. They also offer rafting tours on the Shiribetsu River.

Where: Niseko, Hokkaido Web: www.nacadventures.jp Face your fear of heights at Hakuba Tsugaike Wow park, which features three unique adventures: tubing from a 12-meter slide, a kid-friendly netted adventure park lined with exciting climbing and jumping obstacles, and high-wire cycling. There is also an on-site BBQ restaurant.

Where: Hakuba, Nagano Web: www.hakubawow.jp Forest Adventure is Japan’s biggest treetop adventure company with more than 30 locations throughout Japan. Not only do they build exciting courses in the trees, they also work to preser ve neglected forests.

When a Forest Adventure course is built, they thin the tree cover and open up the canopy leading to a renewal of the forest habitat. There are various course levels at each location for adults and children.

Web: www.foret-aventure.jp

CANYONING & RAFTING

Niyodo Adventure of fer s Englishguided tours through the Nakatsu Gorge blue waters. The tour takes two-and-a-half hours with plent y of oppor tunities to jump into pools, slide down natural water chutes and abseil down cliffs. The grand finale involves swimming into a c ave and out through a waterfall. The course is great for beginners, but has some challenging and fun aspects for canyoning enthusiasts. There’s also a family canyoning option for children six and up.

Canyoning tours run from April to October and peak season is in August. Pack rafting tours are also available further downstream (with grade two rapids) from April to October.

Where: Niyodo, Kochi Web: www.niyodoadventure.com The valleys below Izu’s Amagi Mountains are ble s s e d wit h f re s h s p r ing w ater an d numerous water falls. Adventure Support runs rafting tours on the scenic Kano River and canyoning tours starting at Banjo-no-taki Campsite near the 20-meter Banjo Falls. They also offer rappelling on Mt. Joyama, which is famous with rock climbers.

Where: Izu, Shizuoka Web: www.adventuresupport.net In spring, Gunma Prefecture’s mighty Tone River is in full flow providing over 25 kilometers of grade four white water. Canyons offers half and full-day rafting and canyoning tours in Minakami, a UNESCO biosphere reserve just a little over an hour away from Tokyo.

Where: Minakami, Gunma Web: www.canyons.jp Descend 15-meter water falls and jump into deep fresh pools with Evergreen Outdoor Center in Nagano. There is some hiking involved to access the canyons, but about 80% of the time is spent in the water.

Fo r a mo r e r ela xe d ex p e r ie nce w i t h t he family, go rafting on the Himekawa, a gradetwo whitewater river with great views of the Hakuba mountains. Canoeing, kayaking and SUP tours on Lake Aoki are also available.

Where: Hakuba, Nagano Web: www.evergreen-hakuba.com The clear emerald green Yoshino River is nature’s own water park during the green season. Happy Raft runs half-day, full-day and family rafting trips and canyoning tours in Kochi Prefecture. Rafting tours run from March to November and canyoning tours from July to September. Happy Raft’s personalized tours run in small groups and they also own cozy guesthouses perfect for those wanting to escape the city and get some fresh air. There are uncrowded hiking trails nearby as well.

Where: Nagaoka, Kochi Web: www.happyraft.com

SURFING Danny Melhado competed on the U.S. and Japan professional surfing tour before visiting Okinawa to surf with a friend. After that fateful trip he’s called Okinawa home and opened Happy Surfing Okinawa, located in the quiet village of Yomitan on Okinawa’s main island.

Danny specializes in getting novice sur fers riding waves and also offers SUP tours. Late spring is a great time to be in Okinawa with pleasant temperatures in and out of the water.

Where: Yomitan, Okinawa Web: www.happysurfingokinawa.com

DIVING Dive head fir s t into a 3,0 0 0 -year- old tradition: ama freediving. Ama freedivers are wo me n w ho c atc h s hellf is h and pic k seaweed by hand underwater without a diving tank. Miescape takes travelers on a half-day experience of visiting an authentic ama hut, being guided under water by an ama diver and enjoying a seafood BBQ while listening to the divers’ stories. Tours start at Wagu Gyoko Fishing Por t in Ise, Mie Prefecture and run every Tuesday and Saturday from April to midSeptember and any day of the week from midSeptember to the end of October. English translation available.

Where: Ise, Mie Web: www.miescape.jp Dive the Kerama Islands with Seasir. The beautiful islands are just an hour by boat from Naha on the main island of Okinawa. Enjoy a full-day diving trip in clear waters (at least 30-meter visibility) teeming with tropical fish.

Snorkeling and introductory diving tours are also available.

Where: Kerama Islands, Okinawa Web: www.seasir.com Mikomoto Hammers of fers a rare opportunity to dive with hammerhead sharks around the uninhabited Mikomoto Island just ten kilometers southeast of Izu peninsula.

The best time to see the sharks is from July to October. As the Kuroshio Current flows near this island, divers are required to drift drive and have at least 30 certified dives prior to the dive.

Where: Minami Izu, Shizuoka Web: www.mikomoto.com Mantas are the main reason people dive on Ishigaki Island. Diving School Umicoza takes divers to visit a manta ray cleaning station, a special dive site Umicoza’s owner discovered. May to October is the best time to view the mantas as the south wind continues and sea conditions remain calm. Ishigaki is a three-hour flight from Tokyo.

Where: Ishigaki, Okinawa Web: www.umicoza.com v

Niseko’s famous powder melts into the Shiribetsu River making for an exciting rafting session in early to mid-May. Hanazono Niseko offers whitewater rafting in the spring and mellower family rafting in summer to autumn.

Along the way, enjoy views of Mt Yotei as the course wraps around this iconic mountain. You can also enjoy their new treetop adventure courses, horseback riding and hiking.

Where: Niseko, Hokkaido Web: www.hanazononiseko.com

Spring 2021 | 7

Cornhole for thePeople

BY GARDNER ROBINSON

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he past year or so dished out its fair share of stress and people have dealt with it in various ways.

Most Netflixed or Primed themselves through the dark days of COVID; some turned to exercise, others booze, many began new hobbies such as knitting and gardening—and it seemed like everyone and their grandmother baked sourdough bread. For us it was cornhole.

In the summer of 2019 I managed to get some cornhole bags into my suitcase and barely stay under the weight limit for my flight back to Japan. We spend time in Oregon each summer to see family and friends. It is a beautiful time in the Pacific Northwest for barbecues, concerts in the park, outdoor activities and enjoying some time in the backyard with a craft beer and a game of cornhole.

For the uninitiated, cornhole is kind of a mix of horseshoes and shuffle board. You score points by getting your bag on the board or even better, in the hole. Traditionally the bags were filled with—you guessed it—corn, but nowadays the most durable bags use resin pellets that don’t break down as quickly with use.

I brought the bags back intending to make cornhole boards that autumn, but didn’t get to it before winter.

Then COVID-19 arrived and changed everything. Suddenly we all had more time on our hands than we knew what to do with, less money and nowhere to go. It was a great time for DIY projects.

I finally built a fence in my backyard and then worked with a local carpenter to make the cornhole boards.

My friend Jack stopped by to help test them out and we spent the next week playing nearly every evening after work. We soon realized the boards were too thin, light and springy; the bags were jumping instead of sliding. We set out to create boards that would perform like those we use back in Oregon and Jack, a carpenter by trade, built the

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the first set of cornhole boards, then a second for our local taproom.

More friends came by to play and we soon had a small cornhole community in Nozawa Onsen. We’d play in the backyard, in the park and even get together some evenings and play at our local pizza joint. We started getting more inquiries for boards and bags and realized we needed to give the people what they want—cornhole!

Cornhole Japan was born as a pandemic pastime with a simple goal to spread the love by getting more people playing cornhole with friends, family or strangers. The boards are made from hardwood birch with poplar framing and there is info on the Cornhole Japan Facebook page for upcoming events this green season.

For better or worse, cor nhole was made for COVID times. Social— d e f i n i t e l y, a n d t h e re i s p l e n t y o f distancing—the boards are laid out on flat ground 24 feet (just over seven meters) for casual play and 27 feet (just over eight meters) for tournament play.

It’s simply a great reason to get outside, enjoy an adult beverage and have fun with friends.

O n H a l l o w e e n , w e o rg a n i z e d the first annual Nozawa Cor nhole Invitational. About thirty people gathered under cloudless Nagano skies for a friendly singles and doubles tournament sponsored by the Winterland Taproom. It was a blast and there are plans for a spring tournament in late April. Just be warned it’s highly addictive and may produce involuntary smack talking, profanity and laughter if played correctly.

Web: www.cornholejapan.com or www. facebook.com/cornholejapan

MARKET WATCH

BY JOAN BAILEY

Oita City's Beautiful Sunday Market

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he Beautiful Sunday Market is a sweet little market by the sea and a treasure trove of organic goodness from Oita Prefecture. Founded in 2016 by Akiko Goto, the market is her third such effort since returning to her hometown in 2011. The market focuses on new farmers and producers, specifically those in business anywhere from three to five years.

“New farmers need a place to sell and meet customers,” Goto said in between helping vendors set up for the day.

Dapper in a white collared shirt, black trousers and dress shoes with an indigo apron tied around his waist, Koichiro Iida of Konya Farm looks more chef than farmer. Originally from Osaka, he moved to Oita in 2010. Growing food started out as a hobby, but Iida soon realized he could make a living at it. He grows roughly 30 varieties of fruits and vegetables and sends out weekly boxes to customers in Osaka and throughout Japan.

Minna Matsumoto of Minna Food bustles behind a table filled with her baked goods as customers patiently wait.

Wheat, vegetables, and various fruits grown on her family farm make it into her baked goods as well as her hearty wild boar meatball soup. Potato rum fig bread tempts as do pumpkin hojicha muffins, chocolate cheesecake, carrot cake, and blueberry bread.

Nearby at Makoto and Misato Yamasaki’s table a line forms for their sweet potatoes, potatoes, bright red radish, and scrumptious homemade rice crackers. They grow about forty varieties of fruits and vegetables throughout the year on their farm in Usuki. Originally from Oita Prefecture, Masato made his U-turn four years ago when his wife became ill. “She needed organic food, and it was really expensive,” he said, “so I decided to do it myself.”

All American, American. all the time.

Kazuyuki and Yukiko Masuda came from Shizuoka Prefecture five years ago in search of a place to live sustainably and practice their permaculture growing methods. The two have been bringing their more than 60 varieties of fruits and vegetables, including a kiwi with edible skin, since the first market was held.

Their stall with its southwest blanket and brightly colored vegetables is a delight for the eye and the produce a treat for the taste buds.

Healthy decadence is what Haruto Kawano of Nidomu serves in the form of chocolate spelt muffins drizzled with chocolate and coconut sprinkles. His vegan apple pie is made with a soy milk custard and melts in the mouth along with tender slices of apple and tart cherries.

Made with local wheat and spelt, Kawano e m p h a s i z e s t h e re g i o n a l w h e re v e r possible.

Marie-Josee Laforest grows her herbs and vegetables using permaculture methods, and her lemongrass tea is not to be missed. Farming since 2010, she also produces her own organic rice from seed along with roughly 130 other varieties of fruits, vegetables and herbs throughout the year. The French-Canadian has called Oita home since 2006, and eagerly shares recipes and stories making her table and the Beautiful Sunday Market a worthy destination.

BEAUTIFUL SUNDAY MARKET Nishi-Oita, Oita Kantan Circus near Nishi-Oita Station.

In case of rain, the market moves to Yutaka Oita Souvenirs Fourth Sunday of each month, 9 a.m.- 3 p.m.

Kannai

Yokohama

Shinagawa Home delivery OK! Check our website!

Spring 2021 | 9

Izu's Adventure Capital

BY RIE MIYOSHI

As the sun sets over the ocean to the west, and Mt. Fuji looms over Suruga Bay to the northwest, it becomes clear why Izu City has been growing in popularity as a destination for cycling and outdoor adventures.

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he Izu Peninsula sits on the Philippine sea plate and was originally a mass of submarine volcanic islands under the southern seas. While shifting north, it collided into mainland Japan and became the peninsula you see today. The volcano is still active and nourishes the region with rich hot springs, mountains, valleys and clear spring water.

Izu City is at the center of the peninsula and is made up of three major areas: the famous onsen village of Shuzenji, the sleepy port town of Toi and the mountainous Naka Izu. Shuzenji Onsen has long been a domestic travel destination attracting highend visitors to luxury ryokan. However in the past decade, a younger demographic is flocking here, opening modern hostels, cafes and outdoor tour businesses.

“Since I was young, I used to assume Shuzenji Onsen was a place for older people to visit,” says Ryohei Yamamoto, owner of Hostel Knot. “But recently this area has become more activity based.

Izu is characterized by its hilly roads and great views of Mt. Fuji, and we have views here that you won’t see elsewhere.”

Yamamoto recommends travelers to base themselves at Shuzenji Onsen, then enjoy day-hikes or cycling from there. He usually sends travelers to the 982-meter Mt. Daruma located on the Nishi Izu Skyline. It’s a 15 to 20-minute walk to the summit and an excellent place to view the sunset and Mt. Fuji on a clear day while surrounded by rolling hills of bamboo bear grass. The Nishi Izu Skyline is a tenkilometer cyclist-friendly road weaving through the hills. It overlooks Izu’s port towns on the west coast.

One of these towns is Toi, formerly a thriving gold mine settlement in the 16th century. When Tokugawa Ieyasu came into power, gold mining in Toi reached its peak (around 1610) before closing in 1625. It continued as a popular hot spring destination as a source was discovered in a gold mine gallery near Anrakuji Temple. In 1917, the mine was revived using modern technology and produced about 40 tons of gold before closing again in 1965.

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PAID PUBLICITY

Three hundred fifty meters of the once 100-kilometer-long mine was transformed into the Toi Gold Mine Museum. The display museum nearby showcases the world’s largest gold bar, which weighs around 250 kilograms.

Combine this visit with the beach (Toi has the longest beach in west Izu) and Koibito Misaki, Lover’s Cape.

Back inland, hikers can also scale the Amagi Mountains, part of the Hyakumeizan (Japan’s 100 famous mountains). The range is made up of several peaks including Bansaburodake (1,406 meters), Banjirodake (1,300 m e t e r s ) a n d To g a s a y a m a ( 1 , 1 9 7 meters). The foot of the Amagi Mountains is blessed with fresh spring water, and you’ll find several waterfall trails including the popular Joren Falls, where you can enjoy fishing for nijimasu (rainbow trout) and amago (Biwa trout).

You can also get up close to the quieter 20-meter Banjo Falls, which is tucked away next to a campsite. Adventure Support runs canyoning tours here during the green season. Web: www. adventuresupport.net Thanks to the spring water, Izu is said to be the birthplace of wasabi (Japanese horseradish) farming, which dates back 400 years, and boasts the largest area in the world for water wasabi cultivation. Water wasabi is grown in mountain streams and spring water and you can see these terraced fields along the Omi River. Ikadaba Wasabi Field is approximately 15 hectares (around the size of three Tokyo Domes) of terraced fields. Ikadaba maintains water temperatures between 13 and 16 degrees Celsius throughout

the year. Trees are planted around the perimeter of the fields to ensure the high-quality wasabi receives the right amount of sunlight. Many local restaurants and inns serve fresh wasabi, which you can grate yourself.

For those interested in agriculture and food production, there are several farm and brewery tours. Baird Brewing Gardens Shuzenji and their adjacent campsite is based on the banks of the Kano River and aims to be a zero waste craft brewery. Spent grain, hops and yeast are brought to mulch facilities.

Ingredients are locally and organically grown without pesticides from neighboring farmland and orchards. Ten percent of the electricity comes from solar panels, and Baird hopes to one day run completely off the grid. They’ve also built a wastewater treatment facility. Web: www.bairdbeer.com The fancy Nakaizu Winery Chateau T.S. feels like Napa Valley.

A chateau stands on the top of a hill surrounded by a ten-hectare vineyard and is a popular tourist stop and wedding venue. Sample wine in their tasting room, take a tour of the facility and enjoy a tasty lunch. Visitors can choose from an an open-air cafe, an upscale Italian restaurant or a garden b a r b e c u e a re a . Yo u c a n e v e n g o horse riding around the vineyard.

Web: www.shidax.co.jp/winery/ Bandai Jozo is Izu’s sole sake brewer and dates back to the end of the 15th century when daimyo Hojo Soun defeated the Ito clan and expanded to Izu Peninsula. He toasted his victory with the local sake, calling it Banyou, which continues to be brewed here in

the traditional style. Their current best seller however, is the Arabashiri, a dry and refreshing sake. The brewery is tucked behind a stone wall separating it from surrounding rice paddies. Web: www.izu-bandai.com Up the hill from this brewery is Shuzenji Shiitake no Sato where you can pick log-grown shiitake mushrooms rich in vitamin D and enjoy them over a barbecue lunch. The mushroom spores are planted in naranoki and kunugi tree logs cut from the surrounding forest and left for two years before they harvest. Local farmer Tadashi Shioya has been growing shiitake for about 50 years and started letting tourists pick the mushrooms nearly 25 years ago. “ I t ’s s a i d t h a t t h i s l o g - g ro w n method originated here in Izu back in the Edo period,” says Shioya. “About 80 of us continue growing shiitake here.

We have a long spring season so it’s an ideal place for our mushrooms to grow.”

His shiitake mushrooms are available for purchase online (domestic shipments only). Web: www.office-web. jp/shiitakenosato GETTING THERE Take the JR Tokaido Shinkansen from Tokyo to Mishima (45-60 minutes, ¥4,070 yen one-way). From Mishima Station, it will take another half hour to Shuzenji Station. Shuzenji Onsen is a ten-minute bus or taxi ride from Shuzenji Station.

For more information, visit www. explore-izu.com. v

Spring 2021 | 11

NORTHERN TOHOKU'S

TOP 5 SPRING HIKES

BY QUINLAN FARIS

Chase the cherry blossoms north and enjoy five of Tohoku’s best hikes this spring. The higher mountains in Honshu’s northernmost region still have snow through the end of June, so come prepared and exercise caution as trails can be hard to find under the spring snow.

HACHIMANTAI SUMMIT AREA The Hachimantai Aspite Line is a 27-kilometer stretch of road that goes from Iwate to Akita. When it opens on April 15, there is a long corridor of snow that is four or five meters high on each side of the road over much of that distance. Enjoy seeing the cherry blossoms at the bottom of the mountain, drive up to the summit and park, then put on your snowshoes and walk over the the deep snow and enjoy stunning views of nearby Mt. Iwate and Mt. Mokko. There are tons of trails for all levels, and even easy ones for kids. Distances vary as you can just walk around near the parking lot, or walk in any number of loops around the lakes. Check out the “Dragon Eye” in early June!

AKITA KOMAGATAKE Akita Komagatake is a stratovolcano with five main peaks, the highest of which is called Onamedake (1,637 meters). While you can enjoy this mountain all year round, the most enjoyable way to hike it from the trailhead at Kunimi Onsen, which opens on May 7. It’s a fairly steep ascent for the first hour, but then it opens up as you reach the rim of the vast volcano caldera. The views of the volcano are just breathtaking. There are a variety of ways you can go, but if you keep it simple and just hit the main summit and come back, it’s about 11 kilometers with a total ascent of 940 meters. This Tohoku hike is guaranteed to please.

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HAKKODA Hakkoda keeps its snow until July most years, so take the ropeway up and enjoy hiking as near or far as you like! There are there summits nearby that you can hike up, or you could just walk around on the snow casually and have a picnic before going back down. Like Hachimantai, there are multiple routes, and you can enjoy it in a number of ways depending how much time you have or your fitness level.

Mt. Iwate is a the highest mountain in the same prefecture, and officially “opens” on July 1.

That said, people climb it all year round. It can be dangerous in the winter, but through most of June it’s great for intermediate hikers that are looking for a challenge. During this season, it's best to stick to the Umagaeshi or Omisaka trails. (Save the longer, more glorious, routes for later in the year!) Mt. Iwate is shaped somewhat similar to Mt. Fuji, and—like Fuji-san—you can enjoy walking along the rim of a volcanic caldera at the summit. The Umagaeshi Trail is short and direct, about 11 kilometers with an ascent of 1,500 meters. The Omisaka can be a bit steeper and is 12.5 kilometers with a 1,566-meter ascent. Both can take a good six to ten hours depending on your speed. Plan accordingly so you don’t run out of daylight!

Photo by Paul Vanderheiden

MT. IWATE

Mt. Hakkoda

MT. GOYA Mt. Goya is located near the Sanriku Coast, and you’re likely to see some deer while walking up here.

It’s less strenuous than some of the other hikes— with a distance of around 8 kilometers and an ascent of just 650 meters—and there is an interesting rock formation near the summit that is considered sacred.

Many local hikers go there for the flowers that bloom throughout June.

Mt. Iwate

Mt. Goya

GETTING THERE Starting this April, JR East has made its two most popular passes, the Tohoku area and the Nagano/ Niigata area pass, available to anyone with a foreign passport regardless of visa type. These passes were previously only available for temporary visitors, but foreign residents can now also take advantage of these deals.

These passes offer unlimited rides in their regions over five consecutive days. This includes bullet train, local, rapid and limited express trains and some JR East buses.

The Tohoku pass costs ¥20,000 for adults and ¥10,000 for children. It allows for travel within Tokyo, Kanagawa, Chiba, Saitama, Gunma, Tochigi, Ibaraki, Miyagi, Fukushima, Yamagata, Akita, Iwate and Aomori. The fare costs the same regardless of where they are purchased.

The Nagano/Niigata pass costs ¥18,000 for adults and ¥9,000 for children. It covers Matsumoto and Hakuba.

For more information or to book online, visit www.eastjapanrail.com. v

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Quinlan Faris is an avid hiker, coffee enthusiast who hails from Madison, Wisconsin. His journey took him to Japan 20 years ago after a ten-month spell in China where he was a student of Tibetan Buddhism and Classical Tibetan Language. After a decade in Tokyo, during which time he took multiple backpacking trips to India and Nepal, he moved north to Iwate in 2010. You’ll most likely find him up a local volcano, hiking through a storm, fighting a bear (probably happened) or foraging for wild vegetables to feed his Airbnb guests and entertain his YouTube subscribers. Follow his adventures at www.youtube. com/c/GoNorthJapan.

Spring 2021 | 13

YA T S U G A T A K E

Cycling BENEATH the Eight Peaks

BY GARDNER ROBINSON

I

t’s not an uncommon story for someone to come to Japan for a year and end up staying a decade or more. Back in 1991, it was less common to get a contract as a professional MTB racer in Japan, but that’s how Paul Chetwynd got here. He came for a season and ended up racing in Japan for a decade.

Paul spent his first year living in the popular tourist area of Hakone, but the tour buses and vehicles didn’t make it an ideal place to live and train. “I traveled to a lot of places to race around Japan and was attracted to the highlands around Yatsugatake,” Paul remembers. After a year in Hakone he made the move to the foothills of Yatsugatake.

“Dry weather, clean air and water with the added bonus of altitude made moving up here an easy decision,” he adds. With plenty of quiet roads and forests for training and easy access to Tokyo and to visit his sponsors, it was ideal. Paul stopped racing in 2000 but he never left Yatsugatake.

Yatsugatake literally translates to “eight peaks” and they are easy to count as you approach the mountain. The highest is Akadake at 2,899 meters and although it is not as famous as the ski destinations of the North Alps, it is well respected with climbers and nature lovers here in Japan. It is known as a great mountain to work on techniques for experienced climbers before they tackle bigger mountains. Nature lovers hike the lower area of the mountain, enjoying the various mosses that can be found deep in its valleys.

“My wife and I raised two boys in this area, which has helped immensely in getting to know the local people and their traditions, which span

14 | TRAVELER

from the famous Onbashira Festival (spring 2022) to making skate rinks on rice paddies,” he says.

After retiring from racing, Paul started Freeride Adventures, at first focusing on Japanese clients who wanted to learn and ride mountain bikes with “Paulsan.” The business mainly grew from word of mouth as clients started coming from all over the world to visit and ride in the area. He was originally based out of his home, but Paul found a great piece of land to build his brick-and-mortar shop and transitioned Freeride Adventures into Yatsugatake Cycling, where he has a wide variety of rental bikes (adult and kids sizes), MTBs, road bikes, cross bikes and even e-bikes.

“We have always been based on private reservations rather than gathering groups together.

I find it much better for friends to ride together than feeling pressure to keep up or ride a tricky section with folks they don’t know. During these COVID times it is even more appealing and we really haven’t had to change much of our business model. My tagline should be 'Social Distancing since 2000,’” he jokes.

Yatsugatake Cycling now offers rental bikes for those who enjoy a few hours riding by themselves.

“Having the space enabled us to start a retail store for Cove Bikes, a great North Vancouver brand we sell in Japan as well as cycling related goods including boutique brand bikes, bike stands and clothing,” Paul adds.

There are popular rides that visitors can start from this area. One is to cycle the Venus Line, which connects Chino City to Matsumoto by going up and along a beautiful ridge. The other is a loop of

Yatsugatake which is very popular with experienced cyclists. This is not a ride for those who don't enjoy uphills as it is a beautiful 100-kilometer ride that climbs up and over Mugikusa Pass (2,137 meters).

“For some reason I built my shop just where the road really starts to climb away from Chino City,” Paul jokes. “Cycling the loop is popular, but I prefer to ride on the lower slopes of the mountain along the many quiet backroads.”

One word of advice from Paul, especially with the Venus Line ride; it is spectacular but try to plan your ride on dates other than the main holidays as there can be heavy traffic. If you are stuck riding during peak holiday times, be sure to visit Yatsugatake Cycling so he can guide you away from the tourist crowds.

Spring comes earlier in the Yatsugatake area than in northern Nagano and the riding is good by the end of March. Snow melts and the trails for mountain biking are usually dry in early April. Paul rides year round, taking advantage of the recent boom in fat biking that makes snow riding much easier than ever before. Most of the riding in the Yatsugatake area is done at around 1,000 meters so in summer the humidity and temperatures are much more manageable.

GETTING THERE If you are traveling by train, the Azusa Express from Shinjuku is the most convenient way to get to Yatsugatake. Guests can start their adventure from either Kobuchizawa or Chino where pick up is available. If you are traveling by car, the Chuo Expressway takes you right to Chino or you can hop off the expressway and enjoy the backroads.

ACCOMMODATION The area has many choices for lodging, from hotel and ryokan to small pensions and camping areas. Onsen abound for after-ride relaxation and most places have great facilities. v

Yatsugatake Cycling Where: 641-2, Sasahara, Kohigashi, Chino, Nagano-ken 391-0211 Phone: 080-6934-0674 E-mail: info@yatsugatakecycling.com Web: www.yatsugatakecycling.com Cove Bikes: www.covebike.jp

Spring 2021 | 15

LESS IS MORE IN

Kamikatsu

BY LINDA DING

I

t is a sunny day, the first one in a while following the slew of rain pouring in from the heavens just beyond the cedar-lined mountains. Osamu Nakamura takes this opportunity to bring out the long branches of fallen cedar he’s collected out into his backyard, where he will hand cut them to size.

You can tell this is a practiced skill by all the neat stacks of wood organized from thin twigs to thick pieces the size of forearms, layered neatly keeping dry under the awnings.

“The seasons are changing. Every year there is a big storm right before the they change. This year it’s the rain. Spring is about to come,” he says while he works. Seventy-four-year-old Nakamura-san is a long-term resident of Kamikatsu Village. You may know the name Kamikatsu from the recent surge in popularity revolving around buzzwords such as “sustainability” and “SDGs." Just a quick search into YouTube and any number of videos will pop up regarding this tiny village (population 1,500)— the smallest on Shikoku Island, itself the smallest of Japan’s four main islands. So, what has caused this sleepy, mountainous town located in Tokushima Prefecture to be featured in the likes of the New York Times, Bloomberg, and The World Economic Forum?

It all started back in 1997, when the municipal government of Kamikatsu first created a separation system for waste into nine categories, which was nearly unheard of in Japan at the time. The system wasn’t perfect by any means. In fact, it was being operated in conjunction with an open incineration scheme that was understandably bad for both human health and the environment. Kamikatsu learned from its early mistakes and quickly got rid of open incineration altogether. Over the next several years the village government expanded its original separation system first up to 22, then 35 and finally to the current figure of a whopping 45 categories.

16 | TRAVELER

In 2003, Kamikatsu became the first municipality in Japan to declare for Zero Waste with the lofty goal of becoming a place that would produce no garbage by 2020. Although the 2020 year mark came and went with the village unable to meet such an ambitious target, Kamikatsu’s Zero Waste initiative still sees the village recycling up to 80% annually of their total waste, compared to a Japanese national average of just 20%.

Back at home with Nakamura-san, he makes tea on his handmade stove over a fire made from freshly cut firewood. It feels far removed from the influence of any eco buzzwords or greenwashing. He lives up in the mountains of Kamikatsu in a beautiful old Japanese house he renovated by hand out of an old barn.

“Before coming to Kamikatsu, I was traveling for 15 years. I had been to many countries and seen many different ways of living. That's why I decided to come here and create a life of my own. It is very difficult to have both time and money, but I thought if I worked hard, I could grasp both in my hands.

That's why, when I came here, I thought it would be great if I could realize a life with as little money as possible.”

Nakamura-san lives his life sustainably by being completely independent from a consumerist system to survive. He does not drive a car, grows his own vegetables year round and cooks using a firewood stove that also heats his home. There are just three lightbulbs in his house, and he makes his own compost toilet. This may sound extreme to some, but then again, shouldn’t we all be questioning how much we really want to solve the climate crisis when most of us are driving around gasoline-fueled cars and purchasing factory-made products shipped internationally?

Nakamura-san at his home Of course, it is unrealistic to think that one small village could provide the answers to the world’s problems.

But what Kamikatsu does is provide an example of what it can look like when people gather together to work for a common goal. It is a crossroad, a place where elders living as a testimony to sustainability can mingle with the younger generation eagerly wishing to gain this knowledge for themselves.

Examples of new and old coming together can be seen directly in the red facade of Kamikatsu’s Rise&Win Brewing Co., a Portland-style craft brewery designed by reusing salvaged windows from abandoned homes in the village. The brewery also aims to work with local farmers by purchasing local ingredients to brew with, and returning spent grain to farmers as compost.

Rise&Win Brewing Co. Tel: (088) 545-0688 Web: www.kamikatz.jp

Rise&Win Brewing Co. Café Polestar is owned by Terumi Azuma. Azuma was born and raised in Kamikatsu and her mother, Hitomi Azuma, was the founder of the Zero Waste initiative here. Customers can purchase goods in bulk such as cookies, coffee, rice and soy sauce by bringing their own containers at the café. They can also experience a sense of the seasons; the lunch menu changes daily depending on what’s available at the local market.

“For me, Zero Waste is a way to understand myself. When you live in Kamikatsu, you will not only know about waste, but also about the time you have, what you spend your effort on, how you spend your money and how waste is produced as a result. By finding the balance of these factors, you will be able to find what makes you feel happy,” says Azuma.

Asked about whether life is inconvenient in the countryside, like

The INOW team: Kana Watando, Terumi Azuma and Linda Ding

living in one of the few remaining places in Japan that does not have a convenience store, Terumi says, “I think it's interesting that even in a place with an absence of all kinds of conveniences, ideas are being born about how to live happily and reduce waste to zero.”

Café Polestar Tel: (088) 546-0338 Hours: Cafe: 10 a.m. - 3 p.m.

Co-working Space: 10 a.m. - 5 p.m.

Closed Thursdays and Fridays Web: www.cafepolestar.com Café Polestar

Inside Café Polestar

Spring 2021 | 17

Kashihara Rice Terraces For many visitors, the draw of visiting Kamikatsu starts with the desire to learn about their unique waste-separation system. But it becomes apparent quickly that this system is not something that can be absorbed by merely observing. In order to truly understand the village’s take on zero waste, one has to be fully immersed into it.

The INOW Program is a homestay program that was formed to bridge the gap. It was founded in 2020 by Terumi Azuma along with Linda Ding and Kana Watando, two Canadians living in Kamikatsu.

The program welcomes guests to experience Kamikatsu as a local by living side by side with residents for an extended period of time. Participants can practice waste separation on a daily basis and other sustainability-minded practices such as traditional crafts and organic farming. Each iteration of the INOW program is unique, as it is customized to the needs of the guest and their specific interests to visit Kamikatsu. Visit www.inowkamikatsu.com.

Kamikatsu’s landscape is 90% forest, while the remaining 10% of land is made up of 55 settlements, some of which consist of only one home. There are many beautiful trails to be hiked or cycled. A popular cycling route starts at nearby Tokushima City to Kamikatsu (about 40 minutes by car). Popular hikes in the area include a trek up to Mt. Yamainudake, where you can see a rare vista of a moss forest.

18 | TRAVELER

On the way to the trailhead you will pass by the Kashihara Rice Terraces, voted one of the “100 Most Beautiful Terraces in Japan.” Visit in summer to see the lush green of young rice, or in autumn to catch the golden stalks of ripe grain.

Though Kamikatsu has a twenty-year history of building a sustainable framework, the work here is far from done. But with renewed attention towards this sleepy village both internationally and at home, Kamikatsu is finding the conviction t o a i m f o r a s t ro n g e r s t a n d a rd t o w a rd s sustainability than ever before. The mingling of new minds and old ideas can can contribute to a better future we all hope to achieve together.

GETTING THERE To get to Kamikatsu, you can take the bus or train to Tokushima Station (30 minutes from Tokushima Awaodori Airport via the TokushimaAirport Limousine Bus). From the station, take Bus 82 to Yokose-Nishi. You will be dropped off at the Yokose-Nishi bus stop close to Kamikatsu.

From there, take the local Kamikatsu bus directly into the village. Consider getting off at the Onsen Iriguchi stop to visit Café Polestar and Tsukigatani Onsen’s scenic river views. v

Modern Day Samurai AN INTERVIEW WITH MICHAEL NO

Photo by Kouhei Takarada

WITH RIE MIYOSHI

Spring 2021 | 19

Photo by Edo Wonderland

Photo by Joffrey Maubert

I

f you’ve strolled through Kamakura’s famous Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine or Kyoto’s Shimogamo Shrine on a spring weekend, chances are you might have seen the ancient tradition of yabusame. Yabusame is traditional Japanese mounted archery performed at Shinto shrines in dedication to the deities to pray for universal peace or a rich harvest. The archers are usually dressed in richly patterned Kamakuraera hunting clothes. Although this ritual is intended for the god of the shrine, the thrilling atmosphere of the horses running along a single track and their riders focused on the target often draws a crowd.

The mountainous Nikko in Tochigi is not only the site of Toshogu, the famed Shinto shrine, but also one of the premier places for yabusame training.

We talked with Michael No, the first foreign opening rider of a traditional y a b u s a m e r i t u a l . O r i g i n a l l y f ro m Melbourne, Australia, No has called Nikko his home for the past eight years.

Rie Miyoshi: Was it always your dream to practice yabusame?

Michael No: Horses were always in the background of my life as my maternal g r a n d p a re n t s w e re s e r i o u s h o r s e people. I never had formal training but I knew the basics of riding and I’d been practicing archery since I was 18 or so.

When I was around 16 years old, I had a vision that one day, I would catch and train a wild horse and ride bareback shooting arrows. I got into motorbikes and other outdoor pursuits, and forgot about that vision—until I came to know about yabusame in Japan. Seeing yabusame in person left such a strong impression on me and I immediately recalled my childhood vision.

RM: How did you end up in Nikko?

20 | TRAVELER

MN: I was very fortunate. Back in 2012, I was in Japan on a working holiday in a small town in northern Saitama. I worked at an organic farm and trained judo and kyudo several times a week.

My visa was going to expire and I realized I hadn’t explored Japan yet!

So I decided to travel around Japan, which was when I decided to pursue yabusame.

While I was traveling through Nikko with my brother, we were hanging out at a restaurant with the owner of Edo Wonderland, a Japanese cultural theme park. We immediately hit it off and I told him about my dream of wanting to try yabusame. It just so happened that one of his staff practiced yabusame.

The owner also had several horses of his own for cultural reenactments at Edo Wonderland. I offered to volunteer for him as a stable hand and any other work I could assist with, while I stayed in Nikko and trained for yabusame. It’s been over eight years since I started.

There are currently two remaining traditional yabusame schools in Japan: Ogasawara-ryu and Takeda-ryu. Both a re v e r y o l d ; O g a s a w a r a - r y u w a s formed during the Kamakura period so it’s over 800 years old. I was accepted as a member of the Ogasawara-ryu school after a year of training and living in Nikko.

RM: Is yabusame what you pursue as a hobby or professionally?

MN: Today there are two types of yabusame: sports and yabusameshinji, which is for traditional rituals. I practice the latter, and at my school, Ogasawara-ryu, it is not allowed for even the teachers to make money from yabusame. Having said that, it’s hard to describe it as a hobby as it has become a very defining part of my life as much as my work.

Professionally, I’m continuing my career at Edo Wonderland as deputy manager of project planning and sales, and also working as a stable manager and horse trainer.

RM: Can you explain more about what happens during yabusame-shinji?

MN: Traditional yabusame is usually held in spring or autumn. Three riders called the ite are chosen to perform the ritual. Each rider aims to hit three targets while galloping. It’s a collective effort and more favorable to have a greater number of hits. After the initial three ite, ten to fifteen other riders perform yabusame but their results are said to not affect the outcome of the prayer.

RM: It must have meant a lot then, when you were chosen as the first rider to welcome in the Reiwa Era at Shimogamo Shrine. How did you get chosen?

MN: The teacher at Ogasawara-ryu always selects the riders based on how we’ve been practicing and performing.

I was very grateful to be selected, to ride and know that my nationality didn't prevent my selection. There’s always some pressure, but that occasion was indeed amplified. It was actually my first time to be first rider too.

RM: Are there rankings of yabusame riders?

MN: In Ogasawara-ryu there are nine ranks, or menkyo as they’re called in Japanese. These ranks are issued at the teacher's discretion and based not only on riding and archery ability but the student’s overall development in accordance with the school’s teachings.

You’re (maybe) given your next menkyo once every few years at a shrine. I’m currently nurimuchi which is the third rank. It’s very subtle but you can tell to some degree who is in which

Photo by Taizo Mori

rank depending on the type of clothing and items they carry while performing yabusame. For example, beginners all wear black hakama pants.

Usually a fellow member of the school lets you know that you’re about to rank up—sometimes just a few hours before you’re given your menkyo.

Receiving a new rank feels like a whole ritual too. The yabusame school is very formal, like we generally don’t chat casually with our sensei, and you have to follow reiho (a set of etiquette rules) like how to bow and open fusuma sliding doors.

RM: What’s a typical day like for someone who practices yabusame?

MN: Most of us typically work regular day jobs, so we practice in the evening or weekends. Typical training consists of kisha taiso, a warm up and strength building exercise. Imagine a sumo starting stance but with the back vertical and straight as if riding a horse. We hold this position while doing a series of arm movements, raising them above your head and stretching out, simulating drawing the bow. We practice this usually 30 to 60 times slowly over five to ten minutes.

This is followed by mokuba keiko, wooden horse training. This is to focus on correct posture and shooting techniques while building strength in the legs. A wooden horse never gets tired, so you can focus on technique and easy correction by the sensei. We do this at least for three sets (24 arrows) each. In total a practice session takes an hour to an hour and a half.

RM: What about practicing on a horse?

MN: Depending on where the students are located, official horseback training camps are held every month or two. We practice mainly in spring and autumn which is traditionally when the festivals

with yabusame rituals are held. Winter and summer are our off seasons as the weather is too extreme for horses.

Thankfully being based out of Nikko, I live a very active lifestyle and ride horses several times a week, in various riding styles.

RM: Do you have your own horse for yabusame?

MN: No, the horses I ride for yabusame belong to separate stables affiliated with the school. These horses are trained for yabusame. We often ride the same horses, though they vary regionally.

We usually do a practice run before the ritual. This is mainly for the horse so they get used to the track. You also get a feel for how fast or slow the horse is going to run during the honban (actual ritual).

Occasionally I have to ride a new horse, but there’s usually a time to meet, ride and get an overall feel for each other which is usually on the day prior to the ritual. That said, I always make an effort to build as close a connection as possible with every horse I come in contact with.

RM: What is it like to work with horses?

MN: The horses at the stable I work at are like my family. They’re trained in various things and I also practice yabusame with them privately, but they are not used at traditional yabusame events.

Horses have given me so much. I have seen a lot of amazing—and not so amazing—horsemanship, so my goal when caring for these horses is to be educated and find the most peaceful way to work with them. I ask myself, ‘How can I influence them be a happy and understanding partner?’ Unlike a little puppy that you can just scoop up and tell them ‘No,’ horses are big and

you have to learn how to deal with them intelligently to get willing cooperation from them.

We used to have a beautiful horse with us named Akebono. When he first came, he was traumatized from previous bad experiences. He hated people and was so sensitive. But he pushed me to study how to nurture horses back into a healthy mental state, and he became so trusting and affectionate. I don’t know everything but horses show me there are smarter, gentler ways to work with these amazing creatures.

RM: What do you enjoy about living in Nikko?

MN: Nikko is a beautiful location surrounded by rugged nature, not to mention it’s one of the premier places for yabusame training. In summer you can go stand-up paddling on Lake Chuzenji or enjoy day and multiday hiking across some incredible l a n d s c a p e s . I n w i n t e r t h e re ’s i c e climbing. For those interested in Edo period culture and entertainment, you can drop by Edo Wonderland and even try yabusame wooden horse training.

RM: What do you see for the future of yabusame in Japan?

MN: Even though many traditions struggle in modern society, Ogasawaryu has persevered since the Kamakura period. I imagine it’ll be a fine line between evolving with the times to survive and accurately preserving tradition, but I’d like to believe this timeless ritual can survive another 800 years.

For more information about Nikko, visit www.visitnikko.jp. Learn more a b o u t E d o Wo n d e r l a n d a t w w w. edowonderland.net. v

Spring 2021 | 21

Bird’s Eye View of Hokkaido AN INTERVIEW WITH BEN KERR

Ben Kerr has had a keen eye for opportunity and an ability to create businesses that have taken off since flying over from Australia in the early 1990s. This didgeridoo-playing, road cycling, real estate expert’s latest passion has given him a bird’s eye view of a landscape he’s helped shape over more than two decades in Hokkaido. Gardner Robinson recently caught up with the Niseko-based pilot to find out what lies on the horizon.

22 | TRAVELER

Gardner Robinson: What initially brought you to Hokkaido?

Ben Kerr: A friend was making a snowboarding film in Niseko—he invited me to come lend a hand with translation.

GR: What’s kept you here?

BK: Powder, the people and Hokkaido’s delicious food.

GR: We first met in the late 90s in Niseko; you were working at Niseko Adventure Centre. A lot has happened since those days from building Niseko Real Estate and Niseko Green Farm to becoming a pilot.

BK: Great NAC memories of flipping rafts on the Mukawa River! I guess timing was on our side. With Japan’s domestic ski tourism in decline, welcoming overseas guests seemed the natural step. These same guests then started asking questions about real estate ownership and the best places to buy organic veggies.

GR: You’ve had a front row seat to the development in the Niseko area over the past 25 years. From big initial changes to steady progress; what stands out for you?

BK: It has been fascinating to watch Kutc han Town tra nsfor m into the international hub for Niseko. Initially there were no ATMs so everyone was encouraged to turn up with big wads of cash—good thing Japan is such a safe country!

GR: Before flying you got pretty serious into road cycling and started racing. Do you still get on the bike?

B K : I t h i n k H o k k a i d o ’s l a i d - b a c k summer roads lull almost everyone into cycling. Having experienced the racing excitement of the Tour de Okinawa, it became a dream to create something similar here in Niseko—eventually growing into the Hanazono Hillclimb and Niseko Classic cycling events. I haven’t raced for a couple years, but always keen to head out for a spin with friends.

GR: Where did your interest for flying come from?

BK: Our father took us up in singleengine planes—got us hooked at a young age!

GR: Was it difficult getting a license in Japan?

BK: Transferring an Australian PPL (Private Pilot License) to the JCAB (Japan Civil Aviation Bureau) PPL is relatively simple, just requiring a Japanese radio license and local aviation law test. Most additions (e.g. seaplane rating) can also be secured overseas and added on to the JCAB license.

GR: Tell us about your plane. Why an XCub? BK: I was hoping to fly from the farm, so I needed a rugged plane with full FAA Certification. Cubcrafter’s XCub fits the bill—needing only about 100 meters to take off and land. It has plenty of propeller clearance and those big Alaskan bush wheels help soak up any bumps.

All I have to do is look out for the goats when landing...

GR: What makes Hokkaido a great and challenging place to fly?

BK: With flats, mountains, rivers and lakes, Hokkaido has a lot to offer. It's amazingly beautiful from the air! There are plenty of big and little airports to choose from, it’s easy to source aviation gas and general aviation airplanes are welcome pretty much everywhere.

Winter weather does make flying challenging at times, but fingers crossed we will have some skis approved for the plane shortly.

GR: What’s a typical flight if you wanted to go have some fun?

BK: Last year we put one of the XCubs on amphibious floats, adding the option of water landings. Lake Toya is amazing, with wharfs to dock at, and delicious places to have lunch. On a hot day jumping off the floats for a swim is hard to beat! Come ikura and uni season, a

flight up to the majestic Rishiri Island is also lots of fun.

GR: Have you flown around to other parts of Japan?

BK: Within Japan, I have ventured as far south as Hiroshima. Beautiful adventure, but I actually had a flat tire mid-way.

Everyone was so friendly and helpful and we were back on track in no time.

I've yet to fly overseas from Japan— a vodka run to Sakhalin is only a quick dash from the top of Hokkaido. A group of AOPA-J (Japan’s Aircraft Owner and Pilot Association) members did this trip from Bibai Sky Park in 2019. I'm keen to join next time.

GR: What’s next on your flight path?

BK: This year I’m hoping to reach Okinawa and explore various lakes, rivers and dams during the trip. It appears many places have never have had a floatplane land. No doubt we will see a few surprised faces on the way! v

WEB CONNECTION

Niseko Aviation www.nisekoaviation.com Niseko Green Farm www.nisekogreenfarm.com AOPA-J www.aopa.jp

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I N J A PA N

D

unedin and Minakami are not officially sister cities, but it wouldn’t be surprising if they were. There are a number of businesses in Gunma’s famous adventure town owned and operated by a group of friends from the university town on New Zealand’s South Island.

Mike Burke and Mike Harris grew up together in Dunedin. Burke worked in construction since 1991 before first coming to Japan in 1996.

“I was lured by Harry’s stories of whitewater rafting and the promise of some renovation work; he had painted a pretty picture of the adventures to be had, so I decided to come have a look for myself,” says Burke. "We’ve both always had a passion for the outdoors, sports and adventures—as well as some other less healthy activities,” he jokes.

While Harris pursued his calling in tourism and the outdoor adventure industry, Burke continued to focus on construction, particularly residential and light commercial, but always gravitating towards the second house market in resort towns and rural areas so as to remain immersed in nature.

In 2008 he founded K.K. Aoraki Venture, a fullylicensed general contractor and architectural design and build construction company. Since then his company has designed and built new houses and renovations in Minakami, Tokyo and other parts of Japan, while also working with clients and projects around the world.

“Our goal has been to create comfortable living spaces as economically and efficiently as possible and I’ve always looked to locally sourced products, materials and suppliers first while also utilizing connections and resources in other parts of the world to provide the best options for our clients,” he says.

While the custom nature of the work has been satisfying for Burke and his team, there has been a limit to how many projects they could accept and he wondered how they could improve the quality of life for a greater number of people—especially over the last year as times have become difficult for so many.

During this time Harris had started a basic “glamping” area at Canyons, his tour company and lodge on the banks of the Yubiso River. Canyons put up some bell tents they found online but within the

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year these tents had turned black with mold from the humidity of the Japanese summer and they no longer could be used for guests.

This began a search for better quality materials.

A survey of the domestic industry revealed a huge gap in the Japanese market for top quality luxury lodges suited to the local environment. Harris reached out to his old friend Burke to help find a way to introduce more people to spaces where they could get away, relax and refresh in natural surroundings—with all the comforts of home.

Their search led to a partnership with Europe’s top manufacturer of high-quality luxury canvas lodges perfectly suited for Japan’s seasons and customizable for clients’ needs. The luxury lodges are made from unique, industry-leading fire, mold and mildew resistant canvas, with additional strong PVC roof canopies that protect from solar damage, rain, wind and can handle a certain amount of snow.

Aoraki’s range includes everything from the best bell tent on the market to 95-square-meter lodges that can be fully equipped with kitchen, shower, toilets and furnishings. They also have a Beaufort Wind rating of 10-11, meaning they can handle high wind conditions. Canyons invested in ten luxury lodges and the results have been tremendous.

They also tested snow load over the winter and air conditioning that created a cozy atmosphere for winter glamping that will also be great for keeping cool in summer.

Aoraki Glamping+Design works with clients to come up with the best luxury lodge for their specific needs, or with developers to plan and execute large scale glamping operations.

“Not only glamping—there are endless other applications such as event spaces, rooftops, workspaces, restaurants, catering, pop-up shops or extra accommodation for hotels or even at home,” Burke says.

“What I love about luxury glamping lodges is you can’t help but come away refreshed and recharged after an experience. They are lowimpact on the environment, durable and thus cost effective, removable and create a fantastic return on investment. Good for the environment, good for business and good for customers,” he adds. v

PAID PUBLICITY

Aoraki Glamping+Design (K.K. Aoraki Venture) Where: Yubara 101-3, Minakami-machi, Tone-gun, Gunma-ken 379-1617 Phone: (0278) 72-6130 E-mail: info@aoraki-glamping.com www.aoraki-glamping.com

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Haga Farm

SPRING GLAMPING

Haga Farm and Glamping opened in August 2020, but it has quickly become a popular escape for Tokyoites. This expansive property, in the beautiful Haga Region of Tochigi, features a 150-hectare thoroughbred racing and training facility. The glamping area is set in a beautiful and tranquil mature forest overlooking the training course.

E

ac h glamping dome and dec k area c an sleep up to four people and boasts sleepwell beds, a kotatsu (heated coffee table), air conditioning, hi-speed Wi-Fi, a fully covered outdoor kitchen with a fully stocked fridge, sink, Weber Spirit grills and a heated dining table. To top off the five-star experience, each unit has a private toilet, shower and bath.

A six- course BBQ feast is the highlight of any evening with a delicious menu that changes seasonally. The winter course features salad, fondue, seafood or chicken broth, a mixed BBQ plate (meat or seafood), a selection of fine steaks and dessert. Vegetarian options are also available.

Haga Farm and Glamping is part of the Reiwa Golf Resort, which means visitors have access to a magnificent 27-hole golf course (Murasakizuka Golf Club) that also boasts an onsen. Other activities such as outdoor pool (summer only), basketball cour t are available, and live music events are frequently organized, as well as yoga/wellness retreats, children’s games, crafts and snag golf too.

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PAID PUBLICITY

STAY AND PLAY PACKAGES

Visitors can enjoy all the above for weekdays from ¥18,650~ per person and weekends from ¥21,150~ per person including glamping, dinner and breakfast. Pricing is based on groups of four and children aged three to ten are half price (under three stay free). Longer “staycation” and corporate trip packages are also available and can be catered to individual needs.

For Englis h and Japanese ser vice please visit www.reiwagolfresort.com or email info@ reiwagolfresort.com. v

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Travel &Adventure DIRECTORY

Refresh your Mind, Body & Soul

Refreshing outdoor adventure experiences under 2 hours from Tokyo!

Whitewater rafting, canyoning, adventure combos.....

0278-72-2811 www.canyons.jp

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Travel &Adventure DIRECTORY

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Spring 2021 | 29

Travel &Adventure DIRECTORY

CELEBRATING HUMAN POWER AND INTRODUCING THE QUIET BACKSTREETS, BEAUTIFUL PARKS AND UNIQUE CULTURE OF TOKYO NOT FOUND ON TOURIST MAPS.

freewheeling.jp 30 | TRAVELER

32 | TRAVELER