Outdoor Japan TRAVELER - Issue 40 - Summer 2011 by Outdoor Japan

SUMM E I S S U ER 2 0 1 1 40

Niijima Shorebreak

Searching the Tokara Islands ウミガメを見つける旅

Yap on the move ミクロネシア：ヤップ島

Volunteer Voices

新島ショアブレイク

ACTION

■

ADVENTURE

■

ボランティアの声

OUTDOORS

■

TRAVEL

I N S I D E O J T R AV E L E R

FEATURES

12 22 24 26 30 34 42 52 62

Niijima Shorebreak 新島ショアブレイク Photo Essay by Clark Little

Outdoors on the Cheap

On the cover: Niijima Photo by Clark Little

リーズナブルな旅行のススメ By Bill Ross

Kazu lends a hand to JEARS 國母選手、JEARSを支援 By Tim Exley

MontBell makes a difference モンベルの支援活動 By Bill Ross

OUTDOOR JAPAN TRAVELER Published Seasonally Publisher Outdoor Japan Inc. Editor-in-Chief Gardner Robinson Editor William Ross

Hope and Peace ホープ＆ピース

Business Development Director Luke McDonald

Volunteer Voices

Art Director Yuki Masuko

ボランティアの声 By Alice Brennan

Contributing Editors Wayne Graczyk, Takashi Osanai, Angie Takanami

Searching the Tokara Islands ウミガメを見つける旅 By Mitsuharu Kume

Administration & Distribution Rika Yamada Illustration Eureka!

ISLAND BEAT

Yap on the move

シャークとマンタと海洋生物、西ミクロネシア Story & photos by Tim Rock & Yoko Higashide

Translation Makiko Brunetti, Kanae Kato, Shino Kikuchi, Kumiko Kurosaki, Junco Mitsui Contact Information: Outdoor Japan Inc. J-HANK Chigasaki B / 4-10 Heiwa-cho, Chigasaki-shi, Kanagawa 253-0024

10 for 10: Ross Findlay ロス・フィンドレイ

〒253-0024 神奈川県茅ヶ崎市平和町4-10

J HANK 茅ヶ崎B号

Tel: (0467) 81-3212 Fax: (0467) 81-3213

Inside Out

By Craig Yamashita

Living in Interesting Times

一番素朴なこと

The Local Brew By Bryan Harrell

Baeren Beer

By Takashi Niwa

Chichibu Pilgrimage

The Naked Stranger ハダカの異国人

Episode 7: The most beautiful girls in Japan

秩父 34 ケ所巡礼

8 Race and Events Spotlights

OJ Creative: creative@outdoorjapan.com

By Mitsuharu Kume

下げ潮の次は、上げ潮じゃ

Cycling Japan

4 From the Editor Contributors, Columnists & Cohorts

High Tide

Editorial: editor@outdoorjapan.com Advertising: ads@outdoorjapan.com Subscriptions: subscribe@outdoorjapan.com Comments: comments@outdoorjapan.com

A rising tide always follows an ebbing one…

ベアレンビール

By Abdel Ibrahim

The Simplest Things

OJ 流新聞

Japan Angler

エピソード 7：日本一きれいな女の子たち

9 Race Reports 20 Tokyo Surf

Summer Guide

66 Summer Activity Guide

Get outside and play!

72 OJ Classifieds

Lifestyle Directory

Go somewhere new. Ride your bike.Take a bath. Ride a wave. Hit the slopes. Climb something. Explore. SUMMER

2 0 1 1

FROM THE EDITOR

Contributors, Columnists and Cohorts

Gardner Robinson, Editor-in-Chief Clark Little

ne thing that distinguishes Japan from most other travel destinations in Asia is the seasons. Each season is an ending and a beginning and, after a difficult spring, to put it mildly, let’s hope summer can bring optimism, energy and hope, especially to our friends up north in Tohoku. OJ readers will notice we are changing with the seasons now as well. Tourism in Japan is down considerably since March 11 and, like others, we faced some tough decisions. We didn’t want to cut back on content, so instead we’re introducing a new design and seasonal format. We hope you like the changes. Amidst the disaster, and the aftershocks many have felt physically, emotionally and economically, the outpouring of support for Japan by companies and individuals has been incredible. People have opened their hearts, their wallets and their time. In Issue 40 you’ll see a focus on Tohoku with stories of people, organizations and companies that have been lending a hand, as well as some ideas about how you can pitch in too, if you have the time or the money. As consumers, every choice we make affects others, whether it’s eating out, buying a magazine or traveling. As travelers, our tourist dollars help support people in local communities we may never see. A great way you can help support Tohoku as a consumer and a traveler is to simply go, have a great time and

ア

inject some money into the community. Tohoku Tourism points out all their amazing summer festivals are on as planned, and hotels would love to see more travelers. They even confirmed all the major ski resorts will be open this winter, so start planning your trips now. Other tourist areas around Japan are feeling the pinch too, so if you have a favorite spot or guide, now is the time to go. There are some great deals to be had. If you are looking for some cheap outdoor fun this summer, it doesn’t get any cheaper than free. Nature has always been gratis. You just have to get there if you are living in the city. With a little planning and resourcefulness, there are a lot of options for less than a night out in Roppongi, and your head will be a lot clearer for it the next day. Lastly, I want to say thank you to our readers, contributors, staff and sponsors for their support. The past few months have taught us we are all in this together as everyone is doing the best they can. I also want to give a shout out to Clark Little whose beautiful photo you see on the cover. Clark generously offered to donate his fees for this issue to Tohoku. And to all our fellow outdoor enthusiasts and travelers — get out there for Japan!

者として、旅行者として出来る東北支援。まずは足を運び、

うのは日本独特なものだ。どの季節も、始まりであり

そこで楽しい時間を過ごし、現地でお金を使う。観光協会

また終わりでもある。悲しみの溢れた春が過ぎ、夏が明る

によると、東北の夏を彩る素晴らしい祭りは各地で予定通

い希望とパワーを連れて来てくれることを祈ろう。そしてその

り開催され、宿泊施設も出迎え準備は万端だそうだ。そし

エネルギーが東北に住む仲間たちに届くことを。読者の皆

て冬には全ての主要なスキー場もオープンするというから、

さんはお気付きだろうが、OJも季節とともに移り変わってい

今から予定を立てておこう。もちろん他の地域にもどんどん

く。日本の観光事業は3月11日以降急激に落ち込み、様々

訪れて、日本中を活性化しなくては。ずっと行きたかったお

な影響の中で私たちもまた苦しい決断を迫られることとなっ

気に入りの場所があるなら、今がまさにそのチャンスだ。

た。内容自体を減らす事は避けたかった私たちは、デザイン

この夏、あまりお金をかけずにアウトドアを楽しみたいと考

を一新し、季節ごとの発行という形を取ることにした。みなさ

えているなら、無料という方法はいかがだろう。そもそも自然

東日本大震災が起こり、その後も体で感じるばかりでな

はお金を取ったりしない。都会に住んでいるのなら、自然のある所まで行きさえすればいいのだ。ほんの少しの計画と知

く、精神的、経済的な余震が続く。そんな中、日本に寄せ

恵さえあれば、六本木で一晩遊ぶよりも安い値段で出逢え

られる企業や個人からのサポートは本当に頼もしい力となっ

るアドベンチャーは山ほどある。おまけに頭だってずっとすっ

ている。人々は心と財布を開き、時間を贈った。今号では

きりするはずだ。

東北における、人々や企業や団体による支援の様子を取

最後に、読者、原稿作者、スタッフ、スポンサー、全て

上げ、読者自身も参加したい場合にはそのアイデアも紹介

の皆さまのサポートにお礼を言いたい。この何カ月間の時

Bill Ross

久米満晴

Alice Brennan

アリス・ブレンマン

Tim Rock

ビル・ロス

ティム・ロック

Craig Yamashita

Scean M. Mitchell

Abdel Ibrahim

Takashi Niwa

クレイグ・山下

アブデル・イブラヒム

詩音

丹羽隆志

間は、私たちはみんなひとつなのだという事を教えてくれた。

している。外食をしたり、雑誌を買ったり、旅行をしたり。私たち消

それから表紙の素晴らしい写真を撮ったクラーク・リトルに

費者のひとつひとつの選択は、他の誰かに影響を与えてい

も感謝の意を表したい。クラークは今号の原稿料を東北復

る。観光客が現地で落として行くお金は、コミュニティに住

興のために寄付してくれた。自然を愛し旅を愛するみなさん。

む実際会った事もない人々の支援へと繋がって行く。消費

日本の元気のためにも、さあまた出かけよう！

editor@outdoorjapan.com 4

Tim Exley

ティム・エクスリー

Mitsuharu Kume

Richard Tully, Clark Little and Gardner Robinson at Greenroom Festival 2011.

ジアには数々の魅力的な旅行先があるが、四季とい

んが変化好きであることを願っている。

クラーク・リトル

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

The Naked Stranger ハダカの異国人

Bryan Harrell

ブライアン・ハレル

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

By Craig Yamashita Illustration by Eureka! Translation by Aya Aoki

Amazing New Species Discovered in Japan! Who's

nt rnme G ove lated! u g e r

? arge in ch

! le sib on p s re

N ot

resp onsi ble!

Renewable Energy

Japanese retailers are looking into alternative energy sources to reduce the load on electricity required to maintain sub-zero temperatures during peak summer months.

Privately corporatioheld n!

One such proposal is:

The Beer Garden Dynamo

Utilizing the popularity of the rooftop beer gardens to generate electricity is a concept whose time has come.

What appears to be a hybrid species, named Tepco, has surfaced recently in Japan. While bearing similarities to both a Government Utility and a Private Corporation, it has been concluded as being neither. It feeds voraciously on paper currency, while its advanced defensive system protects itself from harm by switching between the two modes when confronted with uncomfortable situations. (Story on Page 2)

日本で新種が見つかる！発見されたのはハイブリッド種で、政府機関ではないが、民間会社にも見えない。都合が悪くなると２つのモードを使い分け、被害から逃れる自己防衛の手段を持っている。（関連記事２面）

After drinking several beers, patrons head to the restroom to relieve themselves, thus producing the kiloliters of liquid needed.

Fashion Police on Heightened Alert

The liquid from the numerous bathrooms is collected, and drops through the plumbing.

This summer, Japanese companies are adopting a Super Cool Biz campaign to keep their employees comfortable during the sweltering summer in a nationwide effort to conserve energy. The fashion police are preparing for a rise in violations of good taste, and are stepping up their presence in Tokyo’s business districts.

Speed and energy increase as a result of gravitational force.

超クールビズ

The liquid then enters the converter, its force turns the turbine and generates electricity.

今夏、日本では多くの企業が超クールビズを導入する。蒸し暑い夏でも従業員らが快適に業務をこなせる事が狙いで、国をあげて省エネに務めている。おしゃれ警察は、グッドセンス基準法の違反者が増加すると予測し、オフィス街に監視要員を増やすなどして備えている。

Hiro & Jiro How was your “business trip” to NYC?

Good to be back in the Big Apple, how have things been here?

– おかえりなさい。それで、どうだったＮＹ『出張』は？

Things are slowly getting back to normal. Getting sick of cup ramen, though...

– ゆっくりだけど復興は進んでるよ。でもカップ麺ばっかりで…

Hold on, I brought you back a little sump’n sump’n..... Check it out...

Bedbugs for my Simians!!!

– あ、ちょい待ち、おみやげがあるんだった…

– 愛しの友サルにシラミ !!!

– ビッグアップルに帰れて良かったよ。日本こそ、どうなってんの？

SUMMER

– うっひょーー !

2 0 1 1

Hell yeah!

Electricity generated is stored in dry cell battery systems and is used during daylight hours to power the enormous air-chilling units that provide relief on sweltering summer days.

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

RACES & EVENTS

SUMMER SPOTLIGHTS

01 1 2 ER 40 M S U MS S U E I

July 24-25

Tenjinsai 天神祭

One of Japan’s three major festivals, this event in the heart of Osaka dates back more than 1,000 years and includes a procession of some 3,000 people in ancient court dress who later board boats to float along the city’s rivers, illuminated by fires onboard.

July – October

Location: Osaka / 大阪 Web: www.tenjinsan.com

Rough Water Swim, Japan Series

ラフ・ウォーター・スイムジャパンシリーズ

The waves are not always necessarily wild in this Rough Water Swim series; distances range from 1.5K to 5K. Participate solo or as part of a relay team of three in fabulous locations on some of Japan’s most beautiful islands and beaches. Race #3: July 9, Kamakura, Kanagawa Race #4: Sept. 3, Yoronjima, Kagoshima Race #5: Oct. 15 Miyakojima, Okinawa Race #6: Oct. 29, Amami Oshima, Kagoshima Web: www.powersports.co.jp

July 29-31

Fuji Rock Festival ‘11

Aug. 19-21

Fuji Rock is the ultimate weekend escape for music lovers. The threeday music festival in Niigata’s lush mountains has become one of the world’s top music festivals. Visiting artists love to play in the picturesque setting, soaking up the energy from the throngs who make the pilgrimage year after year. You’d think something was in the water, since everyone is so happy, even the occasional rainstorm can dampen the spirits of Fuji Rockers.

アース・セレブレーション

Location: Naeba, Niigata / 新潟県苗場 Web: www.smash-uk.com/frf10/

Location: Sado Island, Niigata / 新潟県佐渡島 Web: www.kodo.or.jp

Earth Celebration

フジ・ロック・フェスティバル 2011

Sept. 4-5 & Sept. 19-20

Sea to Summit 2011

シー・トゥー・サミット 2011

Competitors in the second annual Sea to Summit race follow the flow of water in nature, as it evaporates from the ocean, rises as rain clouds and then falls again as water on the mountains. This year there will be two events in September combining sea kayaking, cycling and hiking. Location: Sept. 4-5 / Tottori / 鳥取県、Sept. 19-20 / Shimane / 島根県 Web: www.montbell.jp

RE MO TS & N EVE ACES R INE! ONL

OUTDOOR JAPAN ONLINE

RACES & EVENTS CALENDAR

Don’t miss out on all the fun! Find the latest and greatest events and races going on in Japan by visiting the Race & Event Calendar on Outdoor Japan Online at www.outdoorjapan.com/race. Outdoor events, music festivals, competitions and more. Add your own race to the calendar or e-mail events@outdoorjapan.com.

SUMMER

SUMMER MUSIC FESTIVALS

2 0 1 1

July 16-17: July 16-18: July 23-24: Aug. 5-7: Aug. 6-7: Aug. 12-14: Aug. 13-14: Aug. 13-14: Aug. 27-28: Sept. 3: Sept. 10-11:

Nano-muge Fes ‘11 AP Bank Fes ‘11 RE Setstock ‘11 MO NTS Rock in Japan ‘11 E V E LINE! Isla de Salsa ON MTV Zushi Fes ‘11 Summer Sonic ‘11 Rising Sun Rock Festival in Ezo Windblow ‘11 Summer Splash ‘11 in Minakami Greenroom Beach Camp

R A C E

R E P O R T

Ⓡ

Shichirigahama, Kamakura 40 years of Surf Experience

All you need one hour from Tokyo.

SURF LESSONS Beginner, Kids, and Private Starting from ¥5,000

2011 XTERRA SAIPAN

SURF SHOP

MARCH 12, 2011 www.saipansports.com

was in Saipan with my five-year-old son, sitting by the pool at the Pacific Islands Club, enjoying a pre-race beer with some XTERRA competitors, when my sister called from Canada telling us to get away from the beach. The devastating tsunami that hit Japan on March 11 arrived that evening, but most of its power was absorbed by the Marianas Trench, the deepest part of the Pacific Ocean. When Saturday morning rolled around the 2011 XTERRA Saipan was on as scheduled. My wife asked me to reconsider competing, but when I talked with some of the 20 Japanese athletes there, I knew I couldn’t sit and watch them race. As they said, “not competing is giving up, and we can`t give up now.” After a minute of silence the race began…and it was an epic. The ocean was not kind to us. Vision was impossible. I swam straight into a boulder as the currents were always changing, but somehow everyone got through it. For me I think having some bulk helped keep me going in a straight line as some of the smaller, lighter athletes seemed to be getting pushed around quite badly. I was surprised to find myself well up the field in the transition. The bike section of the race has slowly been

improved over the years and is now an excellent MTB course. It had rained a little bit during the night and made some of the downhills quite slippery. This always gives me an advantage as my MTB skills from year’s of competing are my only real strength in a triathlon. Into the transition and out onto the run (or in my case jog). I jogged this year the best I could, I didn`t walk, but I was pretty slow. Personally, I had one of my best triathlons ever, finishing third in my division and eleventh overall. And I have no idea why, it definitely was not my training. It seems I got pumped up by the natural power of that tsunami. If anything good can come out of this horrible disaster for Japan, perhaps it can pump up Japan as well, be a catalyst to wake the country up and move it forward. All the athletes battling that day in those conditions were warriors. England's Sam Gardner won the men’s division, with Japan’s Takahiro Ogasawara coming in second. American Shonny Vanlandingham won the women’s division. Next year’s race is set for March 12, 2012, the perfect motivation to stay fit over the winter.

Wet suits / Surf gear Surf Clothing

RENTALS

Surfboards Surfboard Lockers Bicycles available

2011 HOA EXTREME WHITE WATER CHALLENGE JUNE 4-5, 2011 www.rafting-hoa.co.jp

he HOA Extreme Whitewater Challenge, held in Hidaka over the first weekend in June, attracted paddlers from all over Hokkaido. The participants were fired up to impress this year’s special guest judge, Red Bull paddler Ben Brown. Ben was also on hand to premier the latest kayaking movies he appeared in, “Halo Effect” by Steve Fischer and “Frontier” by Rush Sturges. The rafting race was a huge success with 10 teams competing on the challenging 7-kilometer course. The day before the level of intensity was high as paddlers competed for the main prize, a brand new Pyranha kayak. The organizers, Hokkaido Outdoor Adventures, want to thank Ben and Red Bull for their assistance, Pyranha for their support, and everyone who made it a great event.

Open everyday 9am to Sunset For Japanese 0467-55-5702 For English enjoy@easysurf.jp

www.easysurf.jp 1-minute walk from Shichirigahama Station, 1-minute walk to the beach. EASY SURF Kamakura 310 Bldg 1F, 1-3-12 Shichirigahama, Kamakura City, Kanagawa Prefecture

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

By Bryan Harrell

Baeren Beer ベアレンビール Morioka, Iwate 岩手県盛岡市

aeren stands apart from the typical Japanese microbrewery by focusing on German styles of beer. Founded in April of 2003, the brewery is less than 10 years old, but brews up some wellcrafted beers, the most famous being their Classic, a Dortmund-style lager with 6% alcohol. They a lso brew a Schwa rzbier, a dark German-style lager, along with an Alt, which is an old German-style ale famous as the beer of Dusseldorf. Baeren also makes seasonal beers; one of my favorites is their Maibock, a strong lager with a fruity aroma, a rich, malty flavor and a complex floral hop aroma. Much of their brew ing equipment has been brought from Germany, most notably the large 100-year-old brewing kettle. The brewmaster is from Germany and has a penchant for following older, time-honored techniques. The brewery is also open to visitors, with bottled beer for take-home sales, a picnic area and

periodic tours. Contact them in advance for more details. Baeren sells a great deal of their beer over the Internet, and also runs two drinking establishments in Morioka. The Baeren Beer Bar in Nakanohashi ( Te l : 019 - 6 51- 6 5 5 5 ) h a s a ll their sta nda rd beers on tap, a long w ith 12 imported beers in bottles. Among their food offerings is a special sausage made by a noted local sausa ge ma ke r. T he B ae re n Beer Pub, in Zaimokucho (Tel: 019-626-2771), is closer to JR Morioka station and has a similar beer selection, a long w it h va r ious pa r t y plan food sets. W h i le t he bre we r y d id su f fer some sma l l da ma ge du r i n g t h e d i s a s t ro u s e a r t h qu a ke on Ma rch 11, they have completely recovered and are brewing and doing business as normal. Perhaps Baeren would be a good place to include in your travel plans this summer.

日のビールは伝統的ドイツビールの製法で造られ、本の典型的な地ビールと違い、ベアレン醸造所

念ればブルワリー施設の見学も可能だ。訪れる際には、のため事前に連絡をいれておこう。 2003年4月創業とまだ10年足らずの若いブルワリーながインターネット販売も充実していて、盛岡市には直営ビアバー・ベアレン中ノ橋ら、数々の名作ビールを生みだしている。なかでもアルレストランを2件経営している。 “クラシック” （TEL：019-651-6555）では、全種類のベアレンビールにコール度数6％のドルトムント発祥のビールは一番人気だ。ドイツスタイルの黒ビール “シュバルツ” と、インポートビールを含めた12連のビアサーバーが並び、ドイツのデュッセルドルフの伝統的な “アルト” も美味い。樽生ビールやボトルビールが楽しめる。地元の職人が作ビアパベアレン醸造所では季節限定ビールもいくつか造ってるオリジナルソーセージはおつまみにぴったりだ。はJR盛岡駅近（TEL: 019-626-2771）いるが、その中でもお気に入りなのが “マイボック” だ。コブ・ベアレン材木町こちらでもおいしい料理やパーティーメニューとクの中に香る柑橘系のアロマが奥深い、ちょっと強めのくにあり、共に樽生ビールを満喫できる。ラガービールである。 3月11日に起こった大地震によりダメージを受けてし設備の多くはドイツの古い醸造所からはるばる移設し現在はすっかり元通りになり、ビール造りてきたそうで、大きな仕込み釜に至ってはなんと100年前まったものの、のモノ。ドイツ人のブリューマスターからは長い歴史を持にもますます力が入るベアレン醸造所。夏の旅の途中つ伝統製法を忠実に受け継いでいる。お持ち帰り用のに、是非訪れてみてはいかがだろうか。直売所やガーデンスペースも兼ね備えており、希望であ

Baeren Beer

（株）ベアレン醸造所

1-3-31 Kitayama, Morioka-shi, Iwate Prefecture 020-0061

〒 0 2 0 - 0 0 61 岩手県盛岡市北山 1- 3 - 31

Phone: (019) 606-0766 Web: www.baerenbier.com SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Niijima Shorebreak Photo Essay by Clark Little

新島ショアブレイク（＝波打ち際で一気に崩れる波）クラーク・リトルによるフォト・エッセイ

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

y first trip to Japan hadn’t produced any pictures worth talking about. The weather didn’t cooperate, and the water clarity at the beaches was pretty bad the days I visited. The day I arrived in Tokyo on my second trip, I was welcomed by a large storm passing through, carrying lightning, thunder and heavy rain. Heading off to attend an event in Aoyama, I got caught without an umbrella. I showed up dripping wet, which actually doesn’t bother me too much because of my line of work, but I think the hosts might have had other thoughts seeing the puddles form under my shoes in their store. It all worked out; but that’s another story. That night I slept right through the storm but woke up to a dead stillness early in the morning after it had subsided. My friend from Hawaii who helps out with my business was also wakened by the silence. He had lived in Japan and was showing me around. It was pitch black out, and we were wide awake. With nothing scheduled until that afternoon, we saw an opening for an adventure. After pulling up various Japanese weather Web sites, we thought the predictions for the day had changed and looked great for Kanagawa, Chiba and the Izu beaches—clear skies, light winds and some leftover waves from the storm. The biggest waves looked to be out on the fringe of the weather map, the Izu Islands, which include Niijima. I really wanted to make it to Niijima Island someday but didn’t think it would happen on this trip. We had no idea how to get there but, since the island offered

the biggest waves and seemingly perfect conditions, we were determined to find a way. We continued our Internet research and found a small plane left for Niijima four times a day from Chofu Airport, west of central Tokyo. The timeline seemed tight and would require covering a lot of ground, but we figured if we could get on the first flight out and then return on the second flight a few hours later, we could make it to our late afternoon commitment in Yokohama. We tried calling to see if seats were available, but the airline office didn’t open until 8 a.m. In order to make that first flight, we had to get to the airport early, so we decided to leave it to fate and hope the plane wasn’t full. Piecing together a route to Chofu Airport using several trains and a taxi, we set out as the sun began rising. Two hours later we were at the airport entrance among a handful of fishermen waiting to check in for the first flight. The fishermen told us they had booked almost one month ago. My eyes kept looking at the size of the planes on the tarmac and counting the bodies of the growing crowd. The planes were small 15-seaters, and nearly 10 people were already milling around. Luckily, nobody else showed up, and we got our two seats. After a slight delay, the small prop plane took off, buzzing and shaking with a slight smell of gas. We flew directly over Kamakura within minutes and then were over open ocean for the next 20 minutes or so. At

about 10:30 a.m. the plane came to a stop on the Niijima runway. It was bizarre being surrounded by mountains and lush greenery. I felt as if I had arrived on one of the remote Hawaiian Islands. Like a bunch of excited kids, we ran down to the beach, just on the other end of the airport runway. We were in the water 10 minutes later. The set-up was better than I had imagined. Along a six-kilometer stretch of light gray-colored sand, there was only one person in the water. Calm winds were keeping the water surface smooth, with clear skies and sets of waves chest-to-shoulder high. It wasn’t big as I am used to on the North Shore of Hawaii, but the conditions were as good as it gets. I was in the water for only an hour. Some of the pictures were taken right on the shore in between the cement jacks set up to save the beach. Others were taken farther out where little tubes were forming. And a few unusual ones were taken in front of a construction site where waves would hit a metal barrier and send water straight up into the air. There was quite an assortment of set-ups keeping me occupied the entire time. After hitchhiking back to the airport, then jumping on the plane, I was standing back in Tokyo at Chofu Airport within an hour, salt still crusted on my eyebrows. A taxi ride, three trains and a two-mile walk later, I was in Yokohama setting up my artwork for an exhibit at the Greenroom Festival. As the event crew hustled and bustled around me, I kept stopping to replay the day. Did that really happen? ✤

僕

が最初に日本を訪れた時には天候に恵まれず、

今日一番の波がありそうだし、コンディションもパーフェクト

思議な感じがした。

ビーチの水も綺麗とは言えない状況だった。だか

とあれば、何としてでも行く方法を見つけるしかなかった。

僕たちは子供のように大はしゃぎで滑走路のすぐ反対

らその旅では、取り立てて話すような良い写真は撮ること

インターネットでリサーチを続けていると、調布空港から

側にあるビーチまで走っていった。新島に降り立ってから

新島まで1日に4便の小型飛行機が飛んでいることを知っ

10分後には、僕らはもう海の中にいた。想像していたより

ができなかった。 2度目の来日では、強い熱帯低気圧が連れてきた雷と

た。午後からの予定を考えると時間的に厳しかったし、陸

新島はずっと良い場所だった。ライトグレー色の砂浜が6

大雨が僕を迎えてくれた。イベントに参加するために青山

での移動も大変そうだ。けれど、最初の便で新島に飛ん

キロも続く海岸。そこにはサーファーがたったひとりだけ。き

へと向かう途中、傘のない僕はズブ濡れになってしまった。

で3時間後の便で戻ってくれば、横浜での約束にはぎりぎ

れいに晴れた青空の下には胸から肩サイズのセットが入

普段から仕事で水の中にいる僕にとっては大したことでは

り間に合いそうだった。

り、穏やかな風で海面もきれいだ。僕の慣れ親しんだハワ

なかったが、靴の下に広がっていく水たまりを見たイベント

さっそく予約の電話を掛けてみたものの空港オフィスは

イのノースショアほどサイズはないものの、それでもコンディ

のスタッフにとっては違ったようだった。まあ、結局はことな

午前8時まで開かないという。最初の便に乗るためには、ションは最高だった。

きを得たんだけれど、その話はまた改めて。

それから家を出ていたのでは間に合わない。あとは運にま

僕たちが海に入っていられたのはたったの1時間だっ

かせて、空席があるようにと祈りながら、とりあえず空港ま

た。岸辺の砂浜を守るために投入されたテトラの間から

その夜、嵐の音を聞きながら眠りについた僕は、代わりに訪れた静寂のせいでずいぶん早く目を覚ますことになっ

で向かってみることにした。

撮った写真もある。何枚かはもう少し沖で割れる小さな

た。仕事を手伝ってくれている僕のハワイの友人も、同じく

何本か電車を乗り継ぎ、タクシーに乗って、朝日が昇

外の静けさで目が覚めたようだった。彼は日本に住んでい

りはじめる街を2時間さまよった後に調布空港へ辿り着い

の前の金属フェンスに当たって空中に打ち上がる波もおさ

たことがあって、僕の案内役をやってくれていた。外はま

た。入口にはすでに何人かの釣り人がチェックインの開

めた。新島はとてもユニークな場所で、短い滞在時間ながらも僕はいろいろな波を撮ることができた。

チューブを撮った。ちょっと変わったところでは、工事現場

だ真っ暗だというのに、ふたりともすっかり目が冴えてしまっ

始を待っていた。聞くと、みんな1カ月前には予約を入れて

た。その日は午後まで予定はなかったので、せっかく早起

いたと言うではないか。滑走路にある飛行機のサイズと集

ヒッチハイクで空港まで戻り飛行機に飛び乗ると、1時

きしたのだし何をしようかという話になった。インターネットで

まってくる乗客たちの数を見比べてみた。飛行機は小さな

間も経たずに東京の調布空港に戻って来ていた。眉毛にはまだ乾いた塩が付いている。タクシーに乗り、3本の電

天気予報サイトを調べてみると、昨日までの予報とは変わ

15人乗りで、ロビーには10人ほどが集まっている。しかし

り、神奈川や千葉や伊豆の海に行くには絶好の天気にな

ラッキーなことに、それ以上の乗客はあらわれず、僕らは

車を乗り継いだ後で3キロ歩いて、横浜のグリーンルーム・

りそうだった。晴れあがった空に穏やかな風、嵐が残して

無事にふたつの座席を確保することができた。

フェスティバル会場に到着した僕は、アートワークの展示

いったうねり、なかでも一番大きな波がありそうなのは、天

ちょっとした遅れの後、小さなプロペラ機は滑走路から

準備に取り掛かった。

気予報図の端っ子に位置する伊豆諸島だった。もちろん、

離陸した。ブンブンと回るプロペラが飛行機を揺らし、ガス

周りでスタッフが忙しそうに準備に走り回る中、僕は何

新島も入っている。

の匂いが漂ってきた。そしてあっという間に鎌倉上空から

度も手を止めて、頭の中で今日のリプレイをしていた。さっきまでの時間って、本当に現実だよな? ✤

新島にはいつか行ってみたいと長い間思っていたけれ

海に出ると、20分ほど太平洋の上を飛んでいった。午前

ど、まさかこの旅で行くとは思ってもみなかった。まずどう

10時半、新島空港に到着。辺りの山や豊かな緑に囲まれ

やって島まで行くのか見当もつかない。でも伊豆諸島には

た風景は、まるでハワイの小島にやってきたかのようで不

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

ABOUT CLARK LITTLE

クラーク・リトルについてカルフォルニア州のナパで1968 年に誕生。2 年後にオアフ島のノースショアに移り住んだことが彼の未来を大きく変える。80 ∼90年代には、ワイメアベイでのショアブレイク・サーフィンのパイオニアとしてその名を馳せた。危険極まりないショアブレイクの大波に挑戦し生きて帰るという、類まれな才能を持つ男。それがクラークだ。 2007年のある日。クラークはベッドルームの壁に飾る海の写真が欲しいと奥さんに頼まれた。経験を積んだサーファーとしての自信を支えに海に飛び込むと、そのままシャッターを押した。これがきっかけとなって、ハワイの波、特にそのショアブレイクのすさまじいパワーと崇高な美しさを写真におさめることに情熱と才能を見出した。クラークの作品は、危険な波が持つ様々な表情を、彼にしか撮れない視点で余すことなく捉えている。ノースショアのショアブレイク写真を撮り始クラークは国内外めてからわずか4 年間で、で認知を得ることになった。ナショナルジオグラフィック、ニコンワールド、ゲオ、ザ・サーファーズ・ジャーナルといった雑誌を含む世界中の紙面を飾ってきたのだ。2010年にはオーシャン・フォトグラフィー・アワードを受賞。2011 年 4月から9月まで、ワシントンDCのスミソニアン自然史博物館に2点の受賞作品が展示されている。クラークの作品はハワイのハレイワと、カルフォルニアのラグーナ・ビーチにあるギャラリー、もしくはwww.clarklittle.com で見ることができる。

Clark Little was born in Napa, California, in 1968. Two years later a move to the North Shore of Oahu dramatically altered his future. In the ’ 80s and ’ 90s he made his name as a pioneer of surfing at the Waimea Bay shorebreak. Clark had a talent for taking off on hopeless closeout shorebreak waves and surviving in one piece. In 2007 his wife asked him for an ocean photo to decorate a bedroom wall. With the confidence of an experienced surfer, he jumped into the ocean and started snapping away, unknowingly discovering his talent and passion to capture the beauty and power of Hawaiian waves and, specifically, the extraordinary beauty of the shorebreak. “Clark’ s view” is a unique and often dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. In just four years Clark has gained national and international recognition for his North Shore shorebreak wave photography. Clark’ s work has been featured in publications worldwide including National Geographic, Nikon World, Geo and The Surfer’ s Journal, among others. Achievements in 2011 include receiving the 2010 Oceans Photography Award (Windland Smith Rice International Awards) and the honor of having two of Clark’ s award-winning images exhibited from April to September 2011 at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C. More of his work can be seen at his galleries in Haleiwa, Hawaii, and Laguna Beach, California, or online at www.clarklittle.com

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Tokyo Surf People are often surprised to hear you can surf in Tokyo. There are actually two groups of islands that technically fall under the jurisdiction of Tokyo. The Izu Islands (Izu Shoto) are a group of volcanic islands stretching south and east from the Izu Peninsula. Although traditionally referred to as the "Izu Seven" (Izu Shichito), there are actually more than a dozen islands and islets. The Ogasawara Islands (also known as the Bonin Islands) are a stunning archipelago of more than 30 islands similarly administered by Tokyo, although it takes more than 25 hours to get there in good weather (approx. 1,000 kilometers) from Tokyo Bay. The Izu Islands, however, are a great weekend (or longer) surf trip destination for those seeking crystal clear waters, warmer water temperatures and spectacular scenery without actually leaving Tokyo. The Islands have a friendly local vibe, fresh local food and, of course, a variety of surf from easy beach breaks to top-class reefs.

ICON LEGEND Reef

Sand

Rocks

River mouth

By Kuni Takanami

5mm

3mm

Semi-dry

Short john

Spring suit

Boardies

Bikinis

Boots

Gloves

Head cap

Toilet

Shower

Car park

B Beginner

I Intermediate

A Advanced

TOKYO

NIIJIMA

Izu Oshima

iijima is the most popular Tokyo island for surfing and is home to local and international surf contests. There is a variety of consistently good waves with breaks that can handle everything from easterly, northeasterly, southeasterly, westerly and southwesterly swells. The eastern coast is a long white sand beach break that gets some powerful tubes. To the north is an experts-only point due to the strong currents. The western coast has some popular spots but does not get as much swell. Be sure not to miss the island’s natural outdoor hot spring. 1

Niijima

2 3

Kozushima

Miyakejima

5 6 7 8 9 10

Hachijojima

Point Name Awaiura Habushiso Habushiura Heli-shita Secret Missile-shita Mama-shita-ura Kurone B-tei Wadahama

Offshore Winds Level A W B NW B W B W I A W A W I A E / NE B E B E B E

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Bottom

Peak Season ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR

10 Wadahama 9 8 Kurone

Awaiura

Habushiura

4 7

Mama-shita

5 6

Wetsuit

Facilities JAN & FEB:

MAR – MAY & DEC:

JUN – NOV:

SUMMER GUIDE

IZU OSHIMA

zu Oshima, known simply as “Oshima,” is the closest of the Izu Islands and has clear waters and a stunning landscape which includes a giant volcano in the center of the island. Good waves make Oshima a great surf trip destination for the hardcore surfer. Most reef breaks perform all year round, handling swells from the northeast, south, southwest and west.

7 6

Motomachi 5 4

Fudeshima 1

3 2

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Point Name Fudeshima Sanohama Junkame Keta Reef Motomachi-mae Naganehama Izumihama

Offshore Winds Level A W B N B N A NE A E A N / NE A E

Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Bottom

Peak Season ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR SEP – NOV ALL YEAR

Wetsuit

Facilities JAN & FEB:

MAR – MAY & NOV: JUN – OCT:

KOZUSHIMA

ozushima, known for its stunning scenery and white sand beaches, is a local island, and respect must be given in and out of the water. The breaks are quite consistent and work best on northerly, easterly, southeasterly and westerly swells. If for some reason the surf falls flat, there is plenty to keep the keen outdoor lover busy with four hiking trails, onsen and good campsites.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Point Name Kaesuhama Hashiri Takouwan Maihama Tsumari Maihama Mouri Maihama Nagasawa Nagahama

Offshore Winds Level B SW I A NW A W B E B E A E A E / SE

Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Bottom

Peak Season JULY – NOV JULY – NOV JULY – NOV DEC – JUNE DEC – JUNE DEC – JUNE JULY – NOV

Kaesuhama 7

Nagahama

Maihama

Takouwan

Wetsuit

Facilities JAN & FEB: MAR – MAY, OCT – DEC: JUN – SEP:

MIYAKEJIMA

amous for dolphins, a (very) active volcano, diving and rare nature and wildlife, Miyakejima also turns on reasonable waves. Although not nearly as consistent as most of the other islands, there are a good number of challenging reef breaks for the advanced surfer that handle swells from almost any direction. The high cliffs of neighboring Mikurajima are home to wild dolphins and thus attract dolphin-swimming tours. Visitors often stay on Miyakejima where the dramatic landscape is a harsh reminder of the power of nature. 1 2 3 4 5 6

Point Name Sunset Gyokou School Miera Iruka / Dolphin Turtle

Offshore Winds Level I A E I A N / NW A N / NW A W / NW I A W / NW I A W / NW

Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Bottom

Peak Season MAY – NOV MAY – NOV MAY – NOV MAY – NOV MAY – NOV MAY – NOV

Igaya

Tsubota 6 4 2 3

Wetsuit

Facilities NOV – APR: MAY – OCT:

HACHIJOJIMA

achijojima is the most southern of the Izu Islands and is known for spring temperatures year-round. A volcanic landscape, onsen and year-round consistent surf await the expeditionary surfer. Its open ocean location means it gets swells from every direction, but the main breaks particularly feed off northerly or southerly swells. It breaks all year but is best in winter. The water is usually warmer than the Kanto area due to the Black Current. Don’t expect sandy beaches; there are many rocks that will be difficult for beginners, but great for intermediate and advanced surfers. Tourist surfers are welcome but, as anywhere, respect the locals, and you will catch more waves. Make sure to drop into the Aussie-run Anchor Pub to get the lowdown. Point Name 1 2 3

Kaizer's Santos Tacos

Offshore Winds Level A NW A NW A NW

Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Bottom

Peak Season ALL YEAR NOV – FEB JUN – NOV

Facilities

Sueyoshi 1 3

Wetsuit DEC – MAR: APR – NOV:

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

OUTDOORS ON THE Big fun, little yen

SUMMER

By Bill Ross

2 0 1 1

Illustration by Scean M. Mitchell

During tough times, and Japan has seen its fair share recently, people have a tendency to tighten their belts or stay indoors. Yet we all need to live, to exercise, to have fun. Luckily, there are a lot of ways to enjoy the outdoors without parting with a lot of cash. Nature is free; you just need to get there.

CLIMBING / HIKING

The Japanese-language magazine Peaks recently featured a number of outdoor enthusiasts (including, full disclosure, yours truly) sharing their favorite getaway from Tokyo for less than ¥20,000, including transportation, stay, food and one omiyage of about ¥2,000. It can be done, to surprisingly distant areas. Super cheap: Borrow a tent, get a night bus, climb and stay at a hut—but not in the hut. Camping fee is usually ¥500. A little luxury: Take the train at a decent hour (if you’re tall, buses can be cramped); or stay in the hut and lighten your load. Either way, add about ¥10,000.

FISHING

Cheap outdoor fun with a chance of free dinner. Super cheap: Beg, borrow, or rent some gear, take the train to a likely spot and throw that lure or jig (live bait’s too expensive) in the water. If you like to hike, hit the rivers with a fly rod. If you are not sure where to go, ask a local fishing shop and be sure to check into licenses, usually about ¥2,000. A little luxury: Get a bunch of friends and charter a fishing boat. It’s not too expensive per-person, and you catch more fish. Gear manufacturer, Daiwa offers, introductory sessions, including gear rental. Need a little help? Visit the Japan Angler at www. theangler-gpc.com.

CYCLING / MOUNTAIN BIKING

CHEAP

It’s not only the cheapest way to get around the city, but also a pretty good way to get out of town. Super cheap: Get a serviceable, but not too fancy, bike from the classified sections of one the English magazines—there’s always something cheap. Many small bike shops also sell old bikes for less than a night out on the town. Head out along one of the rivers—the Tamagawa or Arakawa out of Tokyo are good choices—it’s not single track, but there are some fun paths you can follow until the mountains come into view. The sight of the mountains may motivate you too. A little luxury: Upgrade to a mountain bike if you have one. If not, borrow or rent. There are lots of dirt roads and trails outside of the big cities; find a friendly pension in a ski resort town (they’re hungry for business in summer), and establish a base for your no-cost expeditions. Think ¥5,000/night or even less. If you want to go bigger, hire a guide or check out one of the downhill or cross-country courses at the resorts.

TRAIL RUNNING

I sometimes shake my head at my minimalist friends in the mountains—especially as they shiver through the fog and rain. However, the skimpy clothes and mini-packs make trail running an economical activity. Good shoes are the biggest investment. Super cheap: A train out of the city will get

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

you in the mountains in no time. Think of the Takatsuki area in Osaka, Okutama in Tokyo or even Kamakura. Do a little digging, and you may even find some trails without hardly leaving town. A little luxury: Or at least more social… splurge on an entry fee for one of the many trail running races (check out the Outdoor Japan Online calendar) and meet some like-minded people who may turn into new running buddies.

STANDUP PADDLING

If you’ve wanted to try this traditional Hawaiian-style of riding the waves, now is the time. Living in Japan, you’re never far from the ocean, but buying, storing and transporting a board can be too much for the frugal outdoor person this summer, so you want to go… …Super cheap and head to a place such as Ted Surf (www.paddlesurf.jp) or Oasis (www. oasis2009.jp) in Chiba where you can rent a board and paddle for the day or get a group beginner lesson for around ¥5,000. A little luxury: Take a private lesson or stay at a cheap pension in one of the beach towns and make a weekend of it.

CAMPING

Cheap fun isn’t limited to the individual; families and friends can also get into the great outdoors. Check out a list of campgrounds at www.outdoorjapan.com/camping Super cheap: Head out on the train or rent a big car or van and check out some of the cheap campgrounds in Japan. Spend some quality family time or relive those beer-fueled road trips of your youth. If you don’t have a tent, don’t worry; many campgrounds have rental gear or if you want… …A little luxury, some have cabins for rent with more civilized amenities, even activities you can enjoy. Either way, it’s a cheap way to have a lot of fun.

WWOOF / VOLUNTEERING

If you feel like you need to get your hands in the earth and live organically or want to get out there and make a difference, there are some great choices. Super cheap: Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF) organization can put your able hands and farmers together. You don’t get paid, but you get lodging, food and most likely a few beverages with your hosts. The membership is just ¥5,500. You then choose where you want to go and what is available. Check out their Web site for details at www. wwoofjapan.com. Super cheap: Now more than ever there are opportunities to volunteer and help your fellow citizens in Japan. See the story in this issue about summer volunteering opportunities with Peace Boat. It will be the most rewarding getaway you will ever have.

東北

KAZU LENDS A HAND By Tim Exley

Photo by Adam Moran

n a day Kazuhiro Kokubo should have been focusing on defending his U.S. Open half pipe title at Stratton Mountain, Vermont, the news from Japan suddenly changed the 22-year-old’s priorities as his heart went out to his country and the people of Tohoku. “I was speechless and, for the first time since I was a kid, I sat and cried as we watched the news reports,” Kazu, as he is simply known, said. “I knew immediately I wanted to help my country and, like so many people, didn’t know how. “At that moment, my main focus was not on winning the competition, but just getting through it and being with my wife who was on her way to the U.S. from Japan.” After securing his second consecutive U.S. Open title, Kazu “celebrated” by boarding straight down the center of the half pipe for his victory run while saying a silent prayer for Japan. “This win, and my final run, was my prayer for Japan,” Kazu said. “To show my support and let everyone watching the event know, as great as the moment was for me personally, it means nothing next to what so many people are going through.” Back in California, Kazu and his wife, Tomoe, decided to support animal rescue, a key element to stabilizing life for the people in northern Japan and the animals about which they care. Searching online, they found Japan Earthquake Animal Rescue and Support (JEARS) and were impressed with the

group’s mission, lack of political focus and the fact there was no bureaucracy to wade through. “JEARS is about action first, paperwork later, and that appealed to me,” Kazu said. Early in May, Kazu made good on his pledge to volunteer by helping at one of the JEARS shelters in Niigata before meeting up with the JEARS ground team in the coastal town of Soma in Fukushima Prefecture. The port and coastal areas of Soma were badly affected by the tsunami. Soma contains several evacuation centers which, two months after the tsunami, were still full of people left homeless. Many have pets they take care of any way they can, even keeping them in a cardboard box outside the shelter or in a car. During the next couple of hours, Kazu, together with the JEARS team, toured the evacuation centers, handing out food and checking on any pets that might need special diets or a trip to a vet. The group then left Soma and headed for Minami Soma. Passing coastal areas, they were doing a customary check for any animals that still might be lost in the devastation. Driving through the now familiar noman’s-land of twisted and tangled debris, scattered here and there with cars and fishing boats, they suddenly came across a small dog, dirty and alone. They quickly stopped and rummaged in the van for gloves, a slip lead and dog treats. Pet rescue can be a tricky business and, as with their human

地

震当日、國母和宏選手は米バーモント州ストラット

助けることが、東北地方の被災者の生活の支えに繋がる

ンで行われていたUSオープン・男子ハーフパイプ

重要な鍵だと考えたからだ。日本地震動物救済会（JEARS）

國母選手、JEARSを支援に出場中だった。本来であれば大会だけに集中している

のサイトを見つけたふたりは、団体の活動目的と、政府や

時だったが、突然飛び込んできた日本からのニュースに、

公共機関に属さない活動体制に興味を持ったと言う。

22歳のアスリートの心は祖国と東北の人々への想いでいっぱいになった。「言葉を失いました。ニュースを見ながら、子供の頃以来初めて座り込んで泣きました。今すぐに日本の人々を助

5月初旬、新潟にあるJEARSの活動拠点を訪れたカズは、そこから福島県相馬市に向かい現場チームと合流した。

けたいという気持ちが溢れてきました。でも多くの人たちと

相馬市の港と海岸線は今回の津波で最も深刻な被害

同じように、どうしたら良いのか分からなかったんです」とカ

にあった地域のひとつだ。震災から2カ月経っていたが、どこの避難所も家を失った人たちでいっぱいだった。ペット

ズはいう。「その時は競技の結果よりも、無事に終わらせ日本から向かっていた妻に早く会えることばかりを願っていました」辛い心境の中、カズはUSオープンの2連覇となる優勝

と一緒に避難している人も多く、避難所の外や車の中の段ボールで寝ている動物たちもたくさんいる状況だった。カズはJEARSのスタッフと一緒に避難所を訪ね、数時

を見事に勝ち取った。ウィニングランでは両手を高く掲げ、

間かけて食料を届けながら病気のペットたちがいないかを

パイプのボトムをまっすぐに滑り下り、日本に向けて静かな

調べて回った。

祈りのメッセージを送った。

その後、相馬市から南相馬市に向かい、海沿いの地

「この勝利と最後の一本は日本へ捧げました。優勝は

域に残された動物たちを捜して車を走らせた。津波で流さ

最高に嬉しかったけれど、その瞬間に被災者の人たちに

れた車や船があちこちに残され、がれきの山と化してしまっ

起こっていることに比べたら小さなことだと思いました。自

た町を進んでいた時、突然1匹の犬が飛び出してきた。

分の日本への支援の意思表示とともに、イベントを見てく

すっかり汚れきった孤独な小さな犬だった。

れている人すべてにそれを伝えたかったんです」

“まずは行動。事務処理はその次” という考「JEARSのえ方に賛同したんです」とカズは語る。

慌てて車を止め、グローブとリード、犬のおやつを持っ

カルフォルニアに戻ったカズと妻の智恵さんは、被災し

て外に飛び出した。確保する作業はただでさえ技術がい

た動物たちを救済する支援を行うことに決めた。動物たちを

る。この異常事態の中、大きなストレスを感じている被災

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

TOHOKU

D TO JEARS counterparts, pets in disaster zones are highly stressed, so gloves and thick clothes are needed for protection. It’s also important to take care when approaching the animals. With the slip lead in the hands of a seasoned volunteer, everyone crouched down to reduce stress on the dog. However, he seemed to know help was on the way and, within a few minutes, the dog was safely on a lead. Shortly after, he was happily in a cage on his way to the safety of the shelter and a meal. With daylight fading fast, another day of rescue and support ended as it had begun, on the road. The JEARS crew thanked Kazu for his support before saying goodbye. Back at the shelter, there were animals to feed, cages to clean and supplies to pack. The next morning this dedicated team, with the support of volunteers like Kazu, will be out there doing it all over

Three “no-kill” animal shelters realized long-term support was needed, but the time to act was now. A day after the earthquake, Japan Earthquake Animal Rescue and Support (JEARS) was formed to rescue animals from the tsunami-devastated areas and to bring needed food and support to homeless pet owners. A few days later, a van and driver were found, courtesy of Black Diamond Lodge in Niseko, Hokkaido. They not only offered their van, but also staff member Toby Weymiller offered to be the driver. Their Facebook page and Website, both managed by foreign volunteers, generated attention, and generous donations came flooding in to support the rescue operations. Since then, the team has covered thousands of kilometers and hundreds of animals rescued. Two more cars have been donated and two temporary

again, rescuing animals and reuniting families.

shelters set up at Inawashira-cho, near Mt. Bandai in Fukushima, and in Sendai. Every day shelters continue to accept animals while ground teams deliver donated food to shelters. They also continue to rescue animals. None of this could have been done without the day-to-day dedication of the shelter owners and ground team and a large number of volunteers in Japan helping with field rescue and shelter management.✤

‘Not without my animals’ After the Tohoku earthquake and tsunami, there was an outpouring of sympathy and support for those in need, and many NGOs rushed to Tohoku to help as volunteer support flooded in. Most organizations focused on people, but a small group recognized pets are an important part of the family as well. A dog or cat may be the only family some have.

JEARS MEMBERS

JEARSメンバーの紹介（敬称略）： The following animal rescue organizations and no-kill animal shelters formed JEARS. Web: http://jears.org

Japan Cat Network

Directors: David Wybenga and Susan Roberts. Web: www.japancatnet.com

HEART Tokushima

ハート徳島 Directors: Susan Mercer and Hitoshi Tojo. Web: www.heart-tokushima.com

Animal Friends Niigata

アニマルフレンズ新潟 Director: Isabella Gallaon-Aoki. Web: www.afniigata.org

From ditch to sofa

The story of Susie

どぶの中からソファの上へ。スージーの話。

A dog or cat may be the only family some have.

たった１匹の犬や猫が唯一の家族だという人も沢山いるのだ。

Lost and lonely - Minami Soma. Photos by Leonora Sophie

動物たちなのだから余計に難しい。興奮した犬に咬まれ

ほとんどの団体が人間を対象にした支援を行う中、家

ても平気なように、グローブと厚手の服は必需品だし、近

族の一員であるペットたちの支援を行う小さな団体があっ

寄って行く動作にも注意を払わなければならない。

た。たった１匹の犬や猫が唯一の家族だという人も沢山

経験豊富なボランティアスタッフがリードを持ち、犬が

いるのだ。

怯えないように体を低くしてゆっくりと近づいていく。どうや

ノーキル（引き取った動物を殺処分しない）の考えを軸

らこの犬は “自分を助けに来た人間” として認識してくれた

にした3つの動物愛護団体が、長期的な支援を目指し迅

ようで、すぐにリードを付けることに成功した。自分から大

速な活動を始めた。震災の翌日には津波被害を受けた地

人しく檻に入り、寝床とご飯が待つ保護施設へと連れて

域からの動物救済や食料支援物資の運搬、そして家を

いかれることになった。

失った飼い主たちの支援を目的とした日本地震動物救済

あっという間に日が落ち、今日の救援活動は終了。集合と同じように、解散場所も建物の中ではなく道端だ。

会（JEARS）が設立された。数日後には、ニセコにあるブラック・ダイヤモンド・ロッ

JEARSのスタッフたちがカズに感謝の意を告げ、この日は

ジの協力を得て車と運転手の手配が付いた。バンだけで

解散となった。

なく、ロッジスタッフのトビー・ウェイミラーが運転手として

保護施設では、動物たちへの餌やり、ケージの掃除、

したホームページやフェイスブックを見た世界中の人々か

た、熱心なスタッフたちとカズのようなボランティアたちが

ら沢山の義援金が寄せられた。

の絆のために。

スージーは震災の1週間後に南相馬市のどぶの中にいるところを保護され、アニマルフレンズ新潟の施設でケアを受けた。飼い主がみつかるまで、埼玉県春日部市でJEARSの元ボランティアスタッフ、レオノラ・ソフィーと一緒に暮らしている。

やってきてくれたのだ。さらに外国人のボランティアが作成

支援物資の仕分けとまだまだ仕事が山積みだ。今日もま協力し地道な努力を続けている。動物たちの救済と家族

Susie was found in a ditch about one week after the earthquake near Minami Soma. She was brought back to the Animal Friends Niigata animal shelter, cared for and then delivered to former JEARS volunteer Leonora Sophie in Kasukabe, Saitama, where she will stay until her owner can be found.

救済チームの精力的な活動によって、これまでに何百匹もの動物たちが保護された。さらに2台の車が寄付され、福島県磐梯山近くの猪苗代町と仙台市にそれぞれ仮設

「いつも一緒に」

保護施設が建てられた。現場チームが、寄付された食べ物を届けながら動物たちの保護活動に尽力している。

東日本大震災の直後から、被災者に向けてたくさんの

チームの地道な日々の活動や保護活動や保護施設の

善意と支援の手が差し伸べられ、多くのNGO団体やボラ

管理に関わったたくさんのボランティアの力なしでは、なに

ンティアたちが支援活動のために東北へ向かった。

ひとつ成し得なかったことだろう。✤ SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Safe at her new foster home with Elbi the bulldog.

モンベルの支援活動

東北

MONTBELL MAKES A DIFF By Bill Ross

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

TOHOKU

utdoor manufacturer and retailer MontBell is one of many companies directly affected by the March 11 earthquake and tsunami. “We had three shops in Sendai, with the one in the Sendai Port area completely destroyed by the tsunami,” says company CEO Isamu Tatsuno. “Luckily all our employees safely escaped. The store in the Izumi area was also destroyed by the earthquake, but our flagship store in Aoba-dori in the center of Sendai was safe.” Rather than work first on rebuilding the shops, MontBell did what it had done 16 years earlier during the Kobe earthquake: employees immediately mobilized to provide relief to those affected by the tragedy. “We at first thought we could use the Sendai flagship store as a base for supporting the people,” Tatsuno said. “But we found it just wasn’t large enough.” Concerned with the nuclear plant situation — with little reliable information coming in — the efforts were shifted to Tendo City in Yamagata, just 40 to 50 minutes from Sendai and, as Tatsuno says, shielded in part by Mt. Zao. During the Kobe earthquake in 1995, MontBell was a much smaller company; still, it donated 2,000 sleeping bags, 500 tents, a lot of other gear and willing hands—both employees and volunteers. This time the effort was a lot larger.

FERENCE

阪神淡路大震災が起こった1995年、モンベルは現在よりもずっと小規模な企業だった。それでも寝袋2000個とテント500張、その他たくさんの物資や人手（従業員とボ

The company established a kind of base camp in the city, gaining access to a large, unused electronics factory. “Then we started taking in goods donated by customers at our 75 stores around the country,” he said. “The government wouldn’t accept donations from the general public, but we would. Blankets, instant ramen — anything was OK at our stores.” Keeping with his climbing analogies, Tatsuno says they then set up their “attack camp” in Tome, Miyagi, inland from the hard-hit city of Ishinomaki. In the

MontBell did what it had done 16 years earlier during the Kobe earthquake: employees immediately mobilized to provide relief to those affected by the tragedy. 自社の店舗を再建するより先にモンベルが優先させたことがあった。それは16年前の阪神淡路大震災の際と同様、従業員たちを動員して、被害に遭った人々のもとへ救援物資を届けることだった。

ランティアを含め）を提供した。そして今回は、当時とは比較にならないほどの規模で救援活動を続けている。市内にベースキャンプとなる場所を確保し、使用され

ア

ていない大型のエレクトロニクス工場を借り受けることもウトドア製品のブランド、モンベルは、3月11日のあ

できた。「それから全国の75 店舗でお客様の寄付による

の地震と津波によって壊滅的な被害を受けた数多

支援物資の受け入れを開始しました」と辰野氏。

くの企業の中のひとつだ。「私たちは仙台に3つの店舗を持っていましたが、そのうち仙台港近くにあった店舗は、津波で完全に破壊されてしまいました」と言うのは創業者でCEOである辰野勇氏。「私どもの従業員は、ありがたいことに全員無事に避

「国は一般の人たちから直接の物資提供を受けようとしませんでしたが、私たちのところは違います。毛布でもインスタント・ラーメンでも、どんなものでも受け入れました」登山の経験や知識を活用した辰野氏は、被害が甚大だった宮城県石巻市の内陸にある登米市に “アタック・

難できました。でも泉地区にあった店舗もやはり地震の被

キャンプ” を設営した。彼によれば、登米を経由して、初

害を受け、無事だったのは仙台市の中心部、青葉通りに

めの1 ヶ月で300トン以上の救援物資がこのエリア全域の

あるフラッグシップ・ストアだけでした」

人々に届けられていったという。

そんな状況にもかかわらず、自社の店舗を再建するより先にモンベルが優先させたことがあった。16年前の阪神

「また私たちは3,500万円を超える義援金を集め、そこから灯油、下着類、衛生用品やおむつなどを購入しました。

淡路大震災の際と同様、すぐに従業員たちを動員して、そしてそれだけではなく、赤ちゃんからお年寄りまですべて被害に遭った人々のもとへ救援物資を届けることだった。「最初は仙台のフラッグシップ・ストアを救援のための

の人に、ひとり10,000円という現金をお渡しすることもできたのです。私たちからのメッセージを添えて」

本部にしようと考えていました。ところが実際には広さが

モンベルは今後さらに長い期間を見据えた活動にも取

足りないことが分かったのです」と辰野氏は語る。さらに

り組んでいる。「先週も私はその地域を訪れていたのです

は原子力発電所の問題も加わり、正確な情報はほとん

が、その際、登米に2,200坪の土地を購入しようと決意し

ど入ってこないなか、山形の天童市に移動して作業を行

たんです」と辰野氏は言う。

うことにしたのだという。仙台からは50分程度の距離にあ

「地元の木材を使って、地元の大工さんたちの手によっ

る上、辰野氏によれば、部分的とはいえ蔵王連峰がシー

て、そこにグループホームを建てようと思っているんです。

ルドの役目を果たしてくれると考えたからだった。

太陽光発電とバイオマスのウッドチップによる暖房システ SUMMER

2 0 1 1

東北 first month, more than 300 tons of goods were sent through Tome and on to people throughout the area. “We also collected more than ¥35 million which we used to purchase things such as heating oil, underwear, hygiene products and diapers,” he says. “But we also handed out cash — ¥10,000 per person to anyone, babies to seniors, with a message from us.” But MontBell is thinking longer term as well. “When I was in the area last week, I made the decision to purchase 2,200 tsubo of land in Tome,” Tatsuno said. “We’re going to use local wood and local carpenters to build a group home there. It will use solar power, biomass wood chip heating system and will be supported by the local community.” What he and his employees have found is that people living alone in government-provided housing are very lonely. The target tenants, he says, will be orphans, children with just one parent or people living alone. “Living with children will help motivate seniors and others who are alone, while the children also gain from the affection of the older people. We thought this would be the best combination.” He adds that, after the building serves its purpose for housing those displaced by the disaster, MontBell plans to use it as a sansonjuku (nature school). “This is only the first step, though,” Tatsuno adds. “We’re only building one home now, but as a next step we’re thinking about building a community of 200 to 300 homes. They won’t be dependant on nuclear energy but will use solar and other natural energy sources. I have the support of the mayor of Tome, and we’re talking with both local and international organizations for support.”✤

ムを取り入れ、地域のコミュニティからのサポートも受けられたら、と考えているところです」辰野氏や従業員たちは、国から提供される仮設住宅にひとりで暮らしている人々が、どれほど大きな孤独感を抱えているのかをすぐ近くにいて実感するという。だからこそ、グループホームには親を亡くした子どもたちや片親のもとで生活する子供たち、そして一人暮らしをする人たちを中心に入居してもらいたいということだ。「子どもたちと一緒に生活することは、お年寄りや一人暮らしをする人々にとっていい刺激になるはずですし、子供たちにとっても、年配の方々が惜しみない愛情を注いでくれることは大きな支えとなるはずです。お互いがいい影響を与え合い、いい関係を築いていけると思うんです」加えて辰野氏は、今回の災害で住む場所を失くしてしまった人たちの住宅として役目を終えた後は、その同じ建物を次はモンベルの山村塾（ネイチャー・スクール）として利用することも考えているという。「といっても、これはまだまだ第一歩だと思っているんですよ」と辰野氏。「現在はまだひとつのホームとして建設しているだけですが、将来的には200から300ほどのホームが集まるコミュニティーを作れたらと考えているんです。もちろんそこは原子力エネルギーに頼ることのない、太陽光その他の自然エネルギーを動力源にした場所にする予定です。すでに登米市長が支援を約束してくださっていますし、地元はもちろんのこと、海外の組織などにも支援をお願いすべく、現在もいろいろと準備を進めているところなんですよ」✤

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

www.appi.co.jp

- The Heart of Northern Tohoku in Japan -

A space to relax and be at one with nature is close by ... APPI Resort

tre

English Service Cen

appi_english@ihr.co.jp

0195-73-6401

Don‛ t Worry,

Be Happy♪

Be APPI

Golf

Swimming Pool

SUMMER

Family Activities

2 0 1 1

Hot Spring

東北

ホープ＆ピース

HOPE AND PEACE

In the wake of the earthquake and tsunami that ravaged northern Japan, two organizations that for years have spread the message of hope and peace from Japan to the rest of the world are lending a helping hand to people in need right here in Japan. 東北地方を襲った地震と津波をきっかけに、長年日本から希望と平和のメッセージを世界中に発信してきた2つの団体が助けを必要とする人々に手を差し伸べている。

JAPAN COAST 2 COAST

e all have our stories to tell of how we were affected by the events of March 11, and during the intervening months many of us have taken a close look at our plans and priorities. For Lowell Sheppard, Mark McBennett and Tony Torres, three Nagoya residents who founded Japan Coast to Coast (JC2C), a charity bicycle tour across the Japan Alps, a major goal for this year had been expanding the activities of their cycling advocacy group to raise more money for HOPE International Development Agency Japan (HOPE-JP), supporting its work to lift people out of extreme poverty in Southeast Asia and help them become self-reliant. They had planned to again spend a week cycling

across the Japan Alps with sponsored teams, raising money for HOPE-JP. However, on March 11 those plans changed. Within hours of the disaster, as the scale of the devastation became apparent, they discussed ways to help those in the stricken areas. Lowell, director of HOPE-JP, realized his organization was being contacted by many supporters across the country, asking how they could get involved in rescue and relief work and support for Tohoku. Quickly, the HOPE-JP board set up a fund for supporters who wanted to give through the organization. The decision was made to

not actively appeal for funds, as they did not want to divert money from existing projects, but instead advised people who asked to dig deeper. Initially fueled by a ¥150-million donation from Oak Lawn Marketing, a long-standing partner of HOPE-JP, they were able to mobilize trucks, acquire warehouses, fund helicopters and get to remote areas where government support had not yet reached. Lowell’s JC2C buddies, along with many in the Nagoya community and beyond, joined the various HOPE-JP efforts as well.

He felt this strong desire to get involved could be channeled into realizing ideas compatible with JC2C’s core message, “Cycling for a cause.” 何かの力になりたい、関わりたいという気持ちは、 “大義のためのサイクリング”という JC2Cのメッセージにも共通する気持ちだと感じた。

Mark (right) with members of the Shorinji Kempo School who helped collect donated bicycles from the Nagoya community.

月11日の地震の時にどうしていたか、その後の暮らし

ウェルには、東北の救助活動への参加を希望する日本

がどのように影響を受けたのか、人それぞれにストー

中のサポーターから連絡が既に入り始めていた。

リーがあるはずだ。この経験で、自分がどう生きるのか、何が大切なのかを考えさせられた人も多いだろう。名古屋に住むローウェル・シェパード、マーク・マクベネット、トニー・トーレスは、日本アルプスを縦断するチャリトゥ・コースト）ティバイクツアー、JC2C（ジャパン・コースト・

そのうちのひとつが、自転車の価値を見直すことだ。移動手段のインフラである電気やガソリンがなくなった時

HOPE-JPはすぐに基金を設立したが、既に救援活動を

のライフラインが自転車だったからである。さっそくHOPE-JP

しているプロジェクトへの資金の流れを妨げるのを避ける

から、希望のあった地域に自転車を届けるようにJC2Cに

ため広く呼びかけることはせず、深く関わりたいサポーター

要請があった。

にのみ基金の存在を知らせることにした。

トニーとマークは名古屋にある自転車屋さんのグループ

まずはHOPE-JPの長年のパートナーであるオークローン

からサポートを受けて、名古屋の個人や団体からトラック2

を始めた3人だ。彼らは、HOPE-JP（ホープ・インターナショ

トラックマーケティングから150,000,000円の寄付を得て、

台分の新品や中古の自転車を集めた。JC2CとHOPE-JPは

ナル・デベロップメント・エージェンシー・ジャパン）向け

や倉庫、ヘリコプターを手に入れ、公的な援助が届いて

仲間と一緒にそれを東北に運び、各所に配った。

に募金を集め、東南アジアで貧困に苦しむ人々が自立で

いないへき地へ向かった。JC2Cの仲間はもちろん、名古

きるように支援することを今年の活動目標としていた。日

屋近郊のサポーターもHOPE-JPの活動に加わった。

本アルプスを一週間かけてサイクリングする予定だったの

「いち早くしかも寛大な申し入れが名古屋の外国人コ

だが、3月11日以降、この予定は変更されることになった。

ミュニティからあがったことに感激した」とマーク。何かの

「東北で会った人々の決意に感動した」とトニー。「地元の人々の回復への熱意と思いやりにこっちが励まされる思いだった。どんどん自転車を運んで新しい仲間に出会うことが楽しかった」のである。

地震発生から数時間後、被害の甚大さが明らかにな

“大義のための力になりたい、関わりたいという気持ちは、

自転車メーカーのキャノンデールも、マウンテンバイクと

るにつれて、彼らは、これらの被災地域を支援する試みに

サイクリング” というJC2Cのメッセージにも共通する気持ち

クロスバイク300台を東北に届けたいと、HOPE-JPに輸送

ついて話し合い始めた。HOPE-JPのディレクターであるロー

だと感じた。

協力を求めてきた。

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

TOHOKU “Seeing the immediate and unselfish response from the foreign community in Nagoya was inspiring,” says Mark. He felt this strong desire to get involved could be channeled into realizing ideas compatible with JC2C’s core message, “Cycling for a cause.” One such idea was an appeal for bicycles, a lifeline for many people when transport infrastructure and gas supplies are wiped out. HOPE-JP requested JC2C to coordinate getting bicycles to locations that had requested them. Tony and Mark, with the support of Nagoya bike shop Circles, collected two truckloads of new and used bicycles, donated by individuals and groups within the Nagoya community. JC2C and friends drove north and, together with HOPE-JP, distributed the bikes at several locations. “I was inspired by the resolve shown by the people I met in Tohoku,” says Tony. “Their resilience and warm-heartedness encouraged me. I look forward to fomenting new friendships over the coming months as we help bring more bicycles to the area.” Bike-maker Cannondale also approached HOPEJP, seeking logistical help for distributing 300 new mountain and cross bikes they generously pledged to Tohoku. Takeda Inc., having salvaged two of 30 containers of new bicycles swept to sea by the tsunami, together with Abantec Ltd., donated 180 keikaisha, or city-type grocery bikes, to JC2C and HOPE-JP on the condition they be cleaned and shipped to needy areas. There was also a donation of five cargo tricycles from the Boy Scouts Association of Thailand. They were delivered to Miyagi’s Oshima Island and the Ojika Hanto. In total more than 500 bikes, most new, will have been sent north by the end of July. Yet, after the last bike was delivered, JC2C and HOPE-JP still felt there was more they could do. “We are interested in what comes after aid ... we want to assist local communities not only to rebuild but also to experience rebirth,” says Lowell. ✤ 武田薬品工業株式会社（タケダ）は、新しい自転車が入ったコンテナ30個が津波にさらわれたが、そのうち2つを引き揚げることができた。その後株式会社アバンテックと共に、シティ自転車180台を清掃して必要な地域に届けてほしいとJC2CとHOPE-JPに依頼を寄せた。またタイのボーイスカウトからはコンテナ5つ分の三輪車が到着した。これらは宮城県の大島と牡鹿半島に届けられた。今後7月末までに、ほとんどが新車の自転車計500 台が東北に届けられる。最後の1台を届けた後も、JC2CとHOPE-JPはもっとでき

1st Annual Tohoku Cycling Festival 第1回東北サイクリング・フェスティバル

OPE-JP is now actively working with local groups and communities, developing economic recovery plans, supplying food, water, solar generators and gravity-fueled water purification systems. One of those communities is located on the spectacularly beautiful Ojika Hanto. The stories they have to share are nothing short of amazing. Wataru Ando, a community leader, told of how two days before the pre-shock, for the first time ever, they saw the sea change color and thousands of crabs walk ashore. When the big quake happened, Ando’s son was fishing on the beach, ran the 300 meters to his house and told his family to run as far up the hill as they could. He promptly ran back to his fishing boat and drove out to sea to save his vessel. He climbed three waves, the second of which was 20 meters high. For three days he was stranded offshore because of the debris that prevented his return. His family thought he had been lost, and he spent days worrying about them until they were finally reunited. The fact they were fortunate is not lost on them. This Miyagi peninsula, protruding into the Pacific northeast of Sendai, was the closest to the epicenter. But, in spite of the extensive damage, Lowell Sheppard, who flew over the area in a helicopter days after the disaster, recalled how much it looked like a cycling paradise. The beautiful coastline is already famous for its world-class sea kayaking. Initially, HOPE-JP and Mercy Flights, a group of helicopter pilots with their own aircraft, supported this area with food and water drops, but eventually they were able to get access by road and have been working in the area since.

In discussions with local people, mostly hardy fishermen and savvy business people, about the desire to reignite tourism in the region, the idea of a cycling festival was born. Together with the community and with the support of various groups and companies including Cannondale, Assos and Outdoor Japan Media, the first Tohoku Cycling Festival will take place on Ojika Hanto during September’s Silver Week. The purpose of the festival is to attract attention to this beautiful part of the country and provide an opportunity for people to visit and enjoy the area in a way that leaves a gentle footprint. The local community will help with logistics, cooking and organizing the cycling routes and other events. “We would be happy to have even a few dozen cyclists in the first year,” says Lowell. “The festival will include sponsored rides for all levels, games and interaction with local people, hearing their stories and their challenges. There will also be some time spent in volunteer work assisting the local community in tasks they set for us. ” The festival will be preceded by a four-day Tohoku Coast to Coast ride — traversing northern Honshu from the Japan Seacoast to the Pacific — for a limited number of riders. Each rider will have a fund-raising target, and the money will go to support local projects. “I think this festival will be an amazing weekend for participants and a great way to show unity with Tohoku,” says Mark McBennett. “But I think it can also be a chance to help Tohoku people reconnect with normality.” If you are interested in either the JC2C ride or the Tohoku Cycling Festival, please contact Japan Coast to Coast via www.JapanC2C.com.

現

すうちに、サイクリングのイベントの案が持ち上がった。こう

在HOPE-JPは、経済的復興プランを作成し、食料、水、太陽光発電装置および重力を利用した浄水シ

地元の漁師や事業主の方々と観光の復活について話

ステムを供給するために、地方の団体との協力を進めてい

して、9月の連休にキャノンデールジャパン、ASSOS、アウト

る。風光明媚な牡鹿半島にある地域から次のような話を

ドア・ジャパンのサポートを得て、牡鹿半島で東北サイクリ

聞いた。

ングフェスティバルが開催されることになった。

区長をしているアンドウ・ワタルさんは、前兆地震の2日

フェスティバルの目的は、このエリアの美しさをアピール

前に海の色が変わるのに気がついた。カニが陸にあがり

し、この地を訪れ、環境にやさしい形でこのエリアを楽しむ

始めたのもその頃だった。いずれも初めて見る光景だ。本

機会を作ることだ。サイクリングルートの検討や食事、輸送

震が起きた時、海岸で漁をしていたアンドウさんの息子は、

は地元の方に応援いただくことになる。

家まで300mを走り、家族にできるだけ高いところに逃げるように伝えた。その後、すぐに船へ戻ったアンドウさんは、船

「最初の年は数十人のサイクリストが集まればいいと思っている」と言うローウェル。「イベントにはスポンサーを受けるライダーを含め、いろ

を守るために沖に出た。船で沖に出たアンドウさんは3回の津波を超えた。2つ目

んなレベルのライダーに参加してもらいたい。地元の人と

は20mもの高さだったそうだ。その後3日間は海に漂う瓦礫

ゲームをしたり、おしゃべりをする機会も設ける。地元が希

に阻まれて岸に帰れず立ち往生した。互いに会えるまで、

望するボランティア作業を手伝ってもらうかもしれない」

家族はみんなアンドウさんは亡くなったと思っていたし、アンドウさんは家族のことを心配し続けたそうだ。仙台の北東にあり、太平洋に突き出たこの半島は、震源地に最も近い陸地だ。すさまじい被害の後でも、ローウェルがヘリコプターから見ると、サイクリストにとっては素晴ら

フェスティバルは、日本海から太平洋まで東北を横断する4日間の東北コースト・トゥ・コースト（Tohoku Coast to

Coast）で始まる。各ライダーは、地元を支援するための募金を呼びかけるという目標を掲げて走る。マークは「東北地方との一体感を深めながら連休を楽し

ることがあるはずだと感じた。「物資の支援が終わっても、

しい場所であることがわかったという。その美しい海岸線は、

んでもらえるいい機会になる」と言う。そして「東北の方々に

コミュニティの再建だけでなく、引き続き再生のお手伝い

すでに世界的なシーカヤックのスポットとして知られている。

とって、日常を取り戻す機会になることを願っている」のだ。

をしたいと思っている」とローウェルは言う。✤

ヘリコプターパイロットのグループ、ジャパン・マーシー・

東北サイクリング・フェスティバルでのJC2Cライドに興

フライト（Japan Mercy Flights）と共に、食料と水を届けた

味のある方は、www.JapanC2C.com.からJapan Coast to

HOPE-JPの活動も、道路でのアクセスが可能になるにつれ

Coastまでご連絡ください。

て、次第にその役割を終えた。

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

FUKUSHIMA

Cycling Japan: NIIGATA By Takashi Niwa Translated by Sakae Sugahara

A JOURNEY TO EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL LIFE サイクリング—それは土地の暮らしを感じる旅

KANTO

TOYAMA

ROUTE

GUNMA

関東

CHICHIBU

NAGANO

Chichibu Pilgrimage

TOCHIGI IBARAKI SAITAMA TOKYO

YAMANASHI

秩父34ケ所巡礼

KANAGAWA

CHIBA

SHIZUOKA AICHI

hichibu is a ba sin tow n in we stern Saitama Prefecture where people come to embark on a pilgrimage to the 34 temples in the area. Visitors have been making the journey here since the Muromachi Period (1336-1573), covering the 100 kilometers it takes to reach all the temples. About twothirds of the temples are located in urban areas; the rest are in more rural settings. T he c ycling route pa sse s shops a nd storehouses of old merchants in the city a nd t h roug h mu lb er r y f ields a nd r ice p add ie s i n t he subu rb s, ma k i n g it a n enjoyable ride and a fascinating experience. For those needing a challenge, there are small hills in between as well and, if you want to really feel the history of Chichibu,

dress in traditional white clothes and stay at a roadside inn, a s the pilgrims who once frequented these lands have done for centuries.

埼

玉県西部の盆地・秩父市は、室町時代から続く「秩父34ケ所巡礼」の地として知られる。34

の札所（お寺）を順番に結んでいくと、その距離は約

100㎞。お寺の約3分の2は秩父の市街地の中、残りは郊外にある。お寺を結ぶ道は、街中では土蔵造りの商家の脇を通り、郊外では桑畑や田んぼなどの田園風景が続き、そして峠越えなども含む、魅力的なサイクリングロードだ。巡礼用の白装束に身を包み、巡礼者が泊まるような宿に泊まるのも、貴重な体験になるに違いない。

Takashi Niwa’s Yamamichi Adventure company has been renamed Niwa Cycling Tours (www.ncycling.com). He offers many bike tours, both domestic and overseas. For other routes in Japan, please pick up a copy of “CYCLING JAPAN: 10 of the Best Rides, Vol. 1 by Takashi Niwa,” at bookshops around Japan and various online stores.

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

丹羽隆志（にわたかし） 2011年1月より “やまみちアドベンチャー”改め “にわサイクリングツアー” （www.ncycling.com）として国内外の各地をガイドする。国内のコースについては『丹羽隆志の日本ベストサイクリングコース10 vol.1 』を参照してほしい。

1st Annual Tohoku Cycling Festival 第1回東北サイクリング・フェスティバル

Sep. 23-25, 2011 If you love cycling, have been thinking about getting started, or just want to have a fun weekend on the Ojika Peninsula and help our friends in Tohoku get back in the saddle, come spend the long Silver Week holiday at the 1st Annual Tohoku Cycling Festival. Japan Coast to Coast would like to invite you to a wonderful weekend of cycling events, fun and games, interaction with local people, and a chance to raise funds to help support the local community, as well as hear their stories before and after the March 11.

JOIN THE FUN… • Participate in Sponsored Rides and raise money for economic recovery in coastal communities • Ride some of the most spectacular coastline in all of Japan • Mountain and road bike rides for all levels • Meet local people and hear their stories • Rent a tent or bicycle.

DETAILS DATE: Sep. 23-25, 2011 (Friday, Sept. 23 is a national holiday)

PLACE: Ojika Peninsula, Miyagi Prefecture. A shuttle will operate to and from Sendai Station. APPLICATION AND DEADLINE: Apply online at www.japanc2c.com until Aug. 31. (Pre-register until July 25) ACCOMMODATION: Camping and some lodges available. COST: ¥19,000 per person includes food, activities, T-shirt, and a place to pitch your tent. Family/ group rates also available. Cost does not include transportation to Ojika Peninsula, bike or tent rental. Limited spaces so register early! ORGANIZERS: Japan Coast to Coast in association with HOPE International Development Agency Japan (HOPE-JP) and local communities

TOHOKU COAST TO COAST RIDE A limited number of cyclists can also join the Tohoku Coast to Coast Ride before the festival. DATE: Sept. 19-23 COURSE: Japan Sea (Niigata) to Pacific (Miyatojima) COST: ¥95,000, includes Jersey, Breakfast and Supper, Accommodation (tents and minshuku), support vehicle, etc. FUNDRAISING CHALLENGE: ¥250,000. 100% proceeds will be used for HOPE-JP projects in Tohoku and Cambodia helping families become self-reliant.

SPONSORS: Cannondale, Assos, RGT Enterprises, Outdoor Japan Media and HOPE Café

For more information visit www.japanC2C.com. If you would like to have a booth or organize activities at the festival, e-mail festival@japanC2C.com. Learn more about HOPE-JP at www.hope.or.jp

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

東北

HOPE AND PEACE

ボランティアの声

Photo by Tracey Taylor & Dee Green - 37 Frames

VOLUNTEER VOICES

shinomaki is one of the larger cities in Tohoku. It was also one of the hardest hit by the tsunami. Riding through the streets, my initial impression was of a town of damaged and filthy houses. Mud and broken possessions littered the streets, and battered cars were rammed at sickening angles into buildings barely still standing. Many houses remain uninhabitable; structurally damaged and caked in toxic sludge. Huge piles of debris are littered around town filled with wood, glass, clothes and manga comics. Occasionally, among the dark, dirty debris, a spot of color, such as a bright blue high-heeled shoe, reminds us this debris is filled with people’s possessions. Our job as volunteers was mainly to help clean homes and businesses, so the people could return as soon as possible and begin, somehow, to rebuild their lives. The work was incredibly satisfying. It was also muddy and filthy. We would shovel tsunami sludge into bags and set them by the side of the road, working until the home, shop or school started to look as though people could live or work there again. There was an incredible spirit of cooperation among the volunteers. I heard no raised voices, nor a single complaint. Everyone was smelly and tired, but we felt so good about the work, we didn't care. We knew the work was important, and everyone pitched in. For me, it was simply the best experience I have ever had. If I ever have doubts about the human

By Alice Brennan

race, I will think back to all the people I met, young and old, Japanese and non-Japanese, who decided to do their part to try to make things a little better. Standing in front of a newly cleaned building, we experienced a tangible feeling we were making a difference. However, our presence there was valuable in less obvious ways. The psychological scars survivors must mend are another challenge the communities face. Every member of this community has suffered – having lost homes, friends, parents, spouses or children – and they struggle to come to terms with the disaster. It is crucial they talk about their experiences, but it is often too painful to talk to each other. As volunteers, we were trained to simply listen. We are not counselors, but provided a safe place for people to unburden themselves of their stories and begin to heal. We experienced this many times. Our group, after cleaning the car park and sewer system from a cosmetics shop in the center of town, was rewarded with long, almost bone-crushing hugs from the owner, despite being covered in slimy mud from head to toe. Locals sent volunteers stories of thanks and told us seeing this work done had made them realize hope was not lost, that life could go on, they would reopen their shops, start selling fruit or go back to school. We shared these stories at morning meetings, before we would set off from our campsite to do a SUMMER

2 0 1 1

full day's work in town. If we ever lacked motivation, or felt our efforts were too small in the face of such devastation, these stories provided the motivation and reinforced how vital is volunteer work in Tohoku. Tohoku desperately needs volunteers. With the disaster no longer in the headlines, the number of people coming to Ishinomaki has dropped dramatically since Golden Week. On behalf of the survivors, Peace Boat is reaching out to anyone who can spare a few days of their summer and continue this crucial work. We must continue to show people we care and that we will stand by them as long as it takes. ✤

TOHOKU On a bright, shiny Saturday night in Tokyo, several hundred volunteers carrying backpacks the size of small children gathered on the corner of a street in Shinjuku. We had spent the day packing our raingear, dust masks, helmets, steel toed-boots, goggles and enough Calorie Mate to feed a small army. Now we were hauling our bags on the overnight bus on which we would hopefully catch some sleep before waking up in Ishinomaki.

東京のキラキラと明るいある土曜の夜、数百人のボランティアが小さな子供のサイズほどのバックパックを背負って新宿の街角に集まった。日中に雨具、防塵マスク、ヘルメット、安全靴、ゴーグルと大量のカロリーメイトを詰め込んだ重いバッグを引きずりながら夜行バスに乗り込む。石巻に朝到着する前に少しでも眠れることを願いながら。

石

巻は東北に位置する大きな市で、津波の災害が

いにするのを手伝うことだった。泥まみれになる仕事でも

最も大きかった場所のひとつである。街を車で走っ

あったが、ものすごくやりがいがあった。家やお店、学校

て最初に目に入ったのが、崩壊し、汚れた家屋だ。泥や

が元通りに人が生活したり、働ける状態になるまで津波

壊れた家財などが道に散乱し、ボコボコになった車がかろ

のヘドロをかき出して袋に詰め、道路わきによけていった。ボランティアの人たちには驚くほど協力の精神があっ

多くの家々は今も住める状態ではない。構造的にも損

た。誰も声を荒げなかったし、不満を言わなかった。みん

害を受け、また有害なヘドロがこびりついている。街のあち

な臭かったし疲れていたが、仕事から達成感を得ていた

こちに木材、ガラス、洋服や漫画本の巨大な瓦礫の山が

ので気にしなかった。誰もがその仕事の重要さを知ってい

見られる。暗い色の瓦礫の中に、たまに鮮やかな青色のハ

て、一生懸命だった。

イヒールなど、一点の色を見つけると、その瓦礫がかつて人々の使っていたものの山なのだということにはっとする。

Photo by Yoshinori Ueno

うじて建っている建物に異常な角度で突き刺さっていた。

私にとって、この体験は本当に今までの経験で一番いいものだった。もしこの先で人間不信になることがあれ

私たちボランティアの仕事は、主に人々ができるだけ早

ば、石巻で出会った、少しでも状況を改善するために自

ら骨が折れるくらいの長いハグをもらった。地元の人はボ

く家に戻り、また生活を立て直せるよう、家やお店をきれ

分のできることをしようと決意したすべての老若男女、日

ランティアたちに感謝を伝え、ボランティアの仕事ぶりに、

本人、外国人のことを思い出すだろう。きれいになったばかりの建物の前に立つと、私たちは変化をもたらしているのだという明白な感覚を経験する。し

希望が失われていないことに気づかされたとか、人生が続いていく限り、お店を再開して果物を売ろう、学校に戻ろう、と話す。

かしながら、私たちのそこでの存在の価値はそこまで明白

私たちは街に繰り出し、それぞれの仕事に取り掛かる

には感じられない。津波で生き残った人々の心理的傷跡

前の朝のミーティングでこのような話をシェアした。やる気

Photo by Tracey Taylor & Dee Green - 37 Frames

を癒すのは、地域社会が直面するまた別の挑戦なのだ。

が萎えたり、大惨事を目の前に努力がむなしいと感じてし

この地域の人たち全てが、家や友達、親、配偶者や

まう時には、このような話がモチベーションを与え、東北

子供を失い、被災していた。そして彼らはこの災害を受け

でのボランティアの仕事がいかに重要であるかということ

入れることにもがいていた。自らの経験を話すことが重要

を改めて思い出させてくれた。

でも、痛ましすぎてお互い話すことができないのだ。ボラン

東北ではまだまだボランティアを必要としている。しかし

ティアたちはただ被災者の話を聞けばいいと教わった。私

災害の記事は見出しには載らなくなり、石巻に来る人の

たちはカウンセラーではないが、話を聞くことで人々が心を

数はゴールデンウィークを明けて急激に減った。被災者に

打ち明けられ、癒しへとつながる媒介となった。

代わり、ピースボートが夏の間の2∼3日でもこの重要な仕

私たちのグループは街の中心にある化粧品屋の駐車

事を引き継いでくれる方を求めている。私たちが被災者を

場と下水道を掃除した。その後、私たちは頭からつま先ま

気にかけているということ、復興が終わるまで彼らの力にな

でぬるぬるした泥にまみれていたにもかかわらず、店主か

るという意思を、これからも見せ続けなければならない。✤

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

東北

TOHOKU

Volunteer Voices

Summer Volunteering in Tohoku

ピースボート夏のボランティア

Who can volunteer? Anyone. Age, physical ability and language ability is not a problem. Peace Boat has a vast range of activities, from physically demanding mud clearing to lighter tasks such as cleaning photo albums or personal possessions. Bilingual leaders are organized for people with little or no Japanese language ability.

参加資格：18歳以上で体力に自信がある方であれば誰でもできます。体力に自信がない人でもピースボートでは体力を必要とする泥の掻き出しから、アルバム写真や個人の所有物をきれいにするなどの軽い仕事まで、幅広い活動があります。言語能力は問いません。日本語があまり、また全く話せない人にはバイリンガルのリーダーが割り当てられます。時期／期間：ピースボートはボランティア活動を毎週

When? Peace Boat runs volunteering activities every week. We usually take people for one week stints from a Friday to the following Saturday, however shorter volunteering trips are available. All volunteers must attend an orientation before departure.

ません。

Where? Our orientations are in Tokyo. Our bus also departs from and returns to Tokyo.

へのバスは東京から出発し、東京に帰着します。

What do you need? Volunteers should ask Peace Boat for a comprehensive up-to-date list of items you will need, as this can change. Currently, volunteers are asked to bring sturdy work boots, dust masks, strong rain gear and all the food you will need for the length of your volunteering trip. Cost? The only cost for the volunteer trip is the bus: ¥5,000 return. How? Visit the Peace Boat Website to find upcoming orientations and volunteer trips, then simply sign up. Web: http://peaceboat.jp/relief/volunteer/ e-mail: relief@peaceboat.gr.jp

私たちが被災者を気にかけているということ、復興が終わるまで彼らの力になるという意思を、これからも見せ続けなければならない。

業1週間）の期間でボランティアを募集しますが、短期間のボランティアも可能です。すべてのボランティアは出発前に必ずオリエンテーションに出席しなければいけ場所：オリエンテーションの開催場所は東京です。現地持ち物：参加するボランティアはピースボートから最新の持ち物リストをもらうようにしてください。現地で必要なものは常に変わります。現在、ボランティアは頑丈な作業靴、防塵マスク、作業用雨具、ヘッドライト、そして自分がボランティアをする期間中に必要な食料を持って行く必要があります。費用：ボランティアに必要な費用はバス代のみで、往復で5,000円です。応募方法：ピースボートのウェブサイトで都合のいいオリエンテーションの日程およびボランティアの期間を確認し、予約してください。

TEL：03-3363-7967（10:00∼19:00日祝休み） Web: http://www.pb-kyuen.net E-mail: kyuen@peaceboat.gr.jp

Photo by Yoshinori Ueno

Photo by Tracey Taylor & Dee Green - 37 Frames

We must continue to show people we care and that we will stand by them as long as it takes.

行っています。多くは金曜から次の土曜で8泊9日間（作

Photo by Tracey Taylor & Dee Green - 37 Frames

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

GLOBAL VOYAGE

OJ SETS

Port of Spain, Trinidad

SAIL!

ine pan Magaz Outdoor Ja e Boat took the w or ld. ac nd Pe ou at ar ds s Our frien cent vo yage ew for e of their re ac e Bo at cr on bo ar d on and the Pe ne lo cG . M ge e sa Emili at mes Thanks to the Pe ace Bo e love and spre ading th

and Tobago

Kochi, India

E ti ng A L VOYAG la st s 80 -110 da ys , vi si , ag es ya ge l al vo of at le Bo Pe ac e ld . Pe op

T HE GLOB

Ea ch boar d ut th e w or s th ro ug ho e to jump on 15 -2 0 po rt e are welcom ltu f. Th er e ar d cu res af an st s r nd ee ou vo lu nt backgr la ng ua ge ge rs or as d en an ss rs pa te rp re ei th er as es fo r in te ceboat. op po rt uniti at w w w.pea vo lu nt ee r e available ar ils ta de ore te achers. M or g/english.

W H AT IS

ac e, AT ? PE ACE BO at w or ks to pr omot e pe d pm en t an , Pe ac e Bo

19 83 e de velo Fo un de d in su st aina bl ational eq ual an d s, ht glob al educ h rig ug thro hu m an ac tiv ities vironmen t cy en e ca th vo r ad fo and re sp ec t e pr ojec ts on a larg e co op er ativ e vo ya ge s pr ograms, ld on pe ac or w na l no ne th at g elin in te rn io w hile tr av ial Bo at is an e ac Pe ith . n w Sp ec sh ip t or gani za tio pa ss en ge r d no n- pr ofi an d So ci al an ic l ta om en on m go ve rn w it h th e Ec ve St at us Co ns ul ta ti Nations. d ite Un e th Council of

Papeete, Tahit

Las Palmas, Spain

Singapore

Kusadashi, Tu

rkey

Kota Kinbalu, Malaysia

Kochi, Indi

Port Sa

id, Egyp

東北

SUMMER 2011 IS A GREAT TIME TO VISIT TOHOKU! Fresh air, a cool climate and Tohoku’s famous summer festivals

Aomori/ Akita / Yamagata / Iwate / Miyagi / Fukushima / Niigata One hundred and thirty years ago, a British traveler, Isabella Bird, visited Japan and traveled north to see the “real Japan.” She was amazed by Tohoku, describing it as a “Garden of Eden” and praising the scenery of Tohoku as an “Arcadia of the East.” Even though many years have passed, Tohoku’s natural, genuine charm still remains.

GION KASHIWAZAKI FIREWORKS FESTIVAL (JULY 26) Enjoy a grand display of fireworks launched over the Japan Sea from the seaside town of Kashiwazaki, Niigata. The celebration includes the “Starmine” display and hundreds of Shakudama (huge fireworks with a diameter of 30 cm.), which are launched simultaneously.

AOMORI AKITA

IWATE

YAMAGATA

MIYAGI

NIIGATA

FUKUSHIMA

MORIOKA SANSA ODORI FESTIVAL (AUGUST 1 - 4) This lively, colorful summer pageant in Iwate’s largest city, Morioka, features thousands of participants in traditional yukata (summer kimono) lending their vocal support to 2,000 flutists and 13,000 drummers dancing through the city. www.tohokukanko.jp/english/

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

TOHOKU

AKITA KANTO FESTIVAL (AUGUST 3 - 6) This harvest festival features an evening procession in which more than 200 poles, symbolizing stalks of rice, are adorned with 10,000 lanterns (kanto) and hoisted in unison. The city street glows in a fiery yellow as these impressive lanterns, each weighing nearly 50 kilograms, are deftly hoisted, deftly lifted and carried through the city.

AOMORI NEBUTA FESTIVAL (AUGUST 2 - 7) It is said the name nebuta comes from the word nemuri (meaning sleepy). Aomori locals blame a mischievous devil for the drowsiness that plagued them on hot summer days, and the festival aims to banish the evil spirits. This raucous festival attracts big crowds who come to see the spectacular paper floats, some more than five meters high and illuminated from inside, while a moving procession of dancing moves through town. The festivities end with a grand fireworks display.

SPECIAL TOHOKU ROKKONSAI EVENT JULY 16-17 IN SENDAI Web: www.rokkon.jp Prior to the six main summer festivals (Nebuta, Hanagasa, Kanto, Sansa, Tanabata, Waraji), a special event called “Tohoku Rokkonsai” will be held in Sendai celebrating Tohoku big summer festivals. This lively celebration is expected to attract 50,000 people per day and help rejuvenate the people of Sendai.

YAMAGATA HANAGASA FESTIVAL (AUGUST 5 - 7) Cheering shouts of “Yasho makasho” filling the air as thousands of people dance in the streets is a traditional summer scene in Yamagata. The Hanagasa, or “flower hat” festival features bamboo hats with red paper safflower (the official flower of Yamagata) designs swirling in the cool night air. The spectacular float at the head of the parade is a must-see.

SENDAI TANABATA FESTIVAL, MIYAGI (AUGUST 6 - 8)

FUKUSHIMA WARAJI FESTIVAL (AUGUST 6) This festival begins after the ceremonial offering of Waraji (straw sandals), which are about 12 meters long and weighing two tons. Various events are held during the festival. The main event is a parade of dancers through the streets of central Fukushima to the tune of a folk song. In addition, a fireworks display takes place the night before the festival begins.

TOURIST SPOTS

SKI RESORTS

Matsushima Bay Cruises resumed operation on April 29. Onsen towns and ryokan are open for business.

All ski resorts remain in good shape and will be open for the 2011-2012 winter season.

At this festival, decorations made from washi paper brighten up the shopping districts of Sendai, a metropolis of a million people. Have fun walking through the colorful streamers made with a unique sense of color and style by Tohoku people. TOHOKU TOURISM PROMOTION ORGANIZATION

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

The Simplest Things 一番素朴なこと

olden Week this year was pretty solemn. So many people I know decided to refrain from any leisure activity out of consideration for the earthquake and tsunami victims in Tohoku. Living and working in a semi-rural part of Kanagawa, I was largely shielded from the difficulties and collective despair felt in more densely populated areas of Kanto. When I saw the dreary, bleak faces of my neighborhood friends who had been commuting into central Tokyo, I decided we could, and had to, do something to lift their spirits. A little trout fishing was definitely in order. On a cloudy Tuesday morning, we made our way through the industrial backwater of Hiratsuka City, past the farmland. It was the peak of Golden Week, but the roads were barren. Our drive to the tiny hatchery trout stream nestled in the hills of Isehara

City took less than half the time we had expected. We were all kind of groggy, and I could tell my friends were reeling from the stress of a day-to-day grind that had been growing tougher, even before March 11. When I think about them and other people I’ve met in recent years, it feels as if an entire generation of Japanese has been dealt a bad card. We arrived bummed out and listless. Then one by one, I watched my friends get absorbed in a moment of childlike nostalgia as they each hooked their first trout of the day. I’m pretty sure they had been fishing before, but it had been so long ago, and the excitement was such a big release, it was as if they were doing it for the first time, again. My buddy Keisuke whose work situation is the toughest of anyone I know, had a giddy ear-to-ear grin as I had never seen on his face.

今

下の時間で到着した。

年のゴールデンウィークはどこか重苦しい雰囲気に包まれていた。私の知り合いの多くも、東北地方の

I chuckled to myself, “Yup, that’s the power of fishing.” The most remarkable thing was the simplicity of what we were enjoying—nothing more than the tug of a trout on the line, a few frosty sips of beer and some green scenery. I remember telling some ambitious students of this very notion—how it’s important to keep in mind, no matter your level of status, success or achievement, the best experiences in life are quite simple and easy to have, so long as you take the time to enjoy them. This outing was a textbook example of what I meant. That morning my friends had a few welldeserved hours to let loose as I think we all need to do from time to time. Even in the face of a tragedy on the scale Japan has just experienced, I reckon it’s good for us kick back, for just a bit, and do the same.

なにより素晴らしいことは、私たちがしていた行為の素朴

仲間たちはあまり元気がなかった。日々神経をすり減らし、さにある。竿の向こうのマスの引き、キンキンに冷えたビー

地震と津波の被災者に対するそれぞれの想いから、あらゆ

だんだんと溜まってきていることが私にも見て取れた。3月11

る遊びを控えていた。神奈川でもわりと田舎の方で生活し

日の前から積み重なっていた分もあるのだろう。彼らやここ

野心的な生徒たちによく話すことがある。人生の最高の

ている私にとっては、もっと人口密度の高い関東地域に比

何年かで知り合った人たちのことを思うと、みんなが悪いカー

経験というのは、本当にシンプルなものだということを忘れ

べるとその影響も集団的な混乱も少ないように感じた。

ドばかりを引かされているような気になってきてしまった。

ル、そして緑の景色。たったそれだけだ。

ないで、と。そして自分自身に楽しむ時間を作ってあげるこ

東京都内まで毎日通勤する、近所の友人たちの陰鬱で

着いた時は疲れてダルそうだったみんなだけれど、子供

疲れ切った顔を見た私は、これはいけないと思った。少しで

の頃を思い出したのか、そのうち全員が最初の一匹を釣り

績とは全く関係ない。どうやら今回の釣りトリップは、その

も気持ちが明るくなるような事が必要だと、無理やりにでも

上げた。魚釣りが初めてという訳でもないのに、あまりに

最高の例になったようだ。

マス釣りに連れ出すことに決めたのだ。曇り空の火曜日の朝、平塚市の工業地帯と田園地帯

とさえできれば、それは簡単に手に入る。地位や成功や業

久しぶりの感触に大盛り上がりで、まるで初体験かのよう

みんなで楽しくワイワイやったあの時間は、それぞれに

に喜んでいた。仲間内でも仕事が今一番きつい状況にあ

とって必要なものだったと思う。ほんのちょっとだけ、のんび

を横目に車を走らせた。ゴールデンウィーク真っ只中だとい

るケイスケも、今まで見たこともないような満面の笑みでは

り羽を伸ばす。このつらく厳しい時だからこそ、そういう時間

うのに道路はガラガラだ。そのため、伊勢原市の山の方に

しゃいでいる。それを見た私は「そう、これこそが魚釣りの

が必要なのではないだろうか。

ある、小さいがとっておきのマス釣り場まで予想の半分以

パワーなのさ！」と密かにニヤけてしまった。

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

ウミガメを見つける旅

Searching the Tokara Islands By Mitsuharu Kume

and find an old airline ticket in the left pocket. The memories from that trip had me grinning, a warm feeling in my chest as I smiled. What I discovered on that trip, for me, was astounding.

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

寒くなってきて、去年のジャケットをひっぱり出して着た時のこと。

year. I stick my hands in the pockets

ポケットに手を入れたら、左ポケットからは航空券の座席番号が、

I pulled out my worn jacket from last

右ポケットからはなくしていた小銭入れが出てきた。

その旅のことを思い出してニヤリ、少し懐も暖かくなりニヤリ。

The cold season was just starting, so

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

moment of discovery, no matter how small, can bring joy to your heart. I had a revelation about five years ago in the form of a sea turtle. It was not just any sea turtle; this one had an identifying number tag attached to its flipper. Pursuing my passion for photographing waves, I had moved to Japan’s southern island of Tanegashima where I worked as a fisherman. The fishing job involved a big fixed net—big enough to fit a gymnasium inside—and every day it would take eight of us to raise the net. We caught fish, of course, but often sea turtles would stray into the net as well. I guess there must have been at least 50 a year. Laws protect the sea turtles, so we would return them to the sea but, on one of these days, I discovered the turtle with the tag on its flipper. “The sea turtles are born in Japan, then travel as far as Mexico,” someone at the non-profit Sea Turtle Association of Japan told me when I called the telephone number inscribed on the tag. “It will take about 30 years for the adults to return and lay their eggs.” Sea turtles, like tortoises, are often seen as slow animals, but the loggerhead turtle crosses the Pacific where it will lay its eggs in the northern hemisphere. Two places they frequent in Japan are Yakushima and Tanegashima. This discovery became my inspiration to make sea turtles the theme for a photography project. I decided to chase sea turtles, and I would

use the power of the wind to do it. First, I needed to find a used sailboat. I found a small, mass-produced boat from the bubble economy days that I could get for the cost of repairs. I’m usually pretty indecisive, but this time I made a quick decision. I had little sailing experience, but I did have a cute little boat. Her name was Moonbow 2 — a rainbow in the moonlight, something you almost never see. Moonbow 1 is my tempura oil-powered camping car I wrote about back in OJ Issue 21. I began preparing. I’d set out in July for about one month. My destination was the area around Yakushima where there are 12

the pier near home as our families waved goodbye. The rainy season hadn’t yet lifted, so we took off into the rain. Even in my raincoat, it was kind of depressing to be out on the sea in the pouring rain. Yet, despite a sometimes weak wind and the fact the motor — our power to move in and out of harbors — was in bad shape, somehow we made it to Yakushima almost right on schedule. A fisherman friend there explained the current between Yakushima and Tanegashima was very swift. He said, on the day of our departure, we should head out just before lunchtime when the tide was turning. But doing that would put us right into the path of northeast winds. We were on the way to an island to the north and the predicted wind could set us back longer than we planned. Being impatient, we took off in the morning. This was a big mistake. No matter how often we tacked into the wind, we always ended up right back in the same place. We doggedly kept doing the same thing over and over until just past noon, when we finally cleared the Yakushima Channel. It’s not a good idea to underestimate the power of nature, or ignore the advice of a local fisherman. As we neared our goal, the island of Mageshima, it was pitch black. Twice before I had brought a fishing boat into this harbor at midday, so I had an image of what the port should look like, but all I saw was a single red light leading the way into a very small

The sea turtles are born in Japan, then travel as far as Mexico. It will take about 30 years for the adults to return and lay their eggs.

islands that have not been well researched about sea turtles. I decided I would look for the tracks of the turtles and listen to islanders’ stories about them. I would go around the islands looking for beaches, take photos of swimming sea turtles and photograph the places where I found turtles. Then, as the hatching season reached its peak in the second half of my journey, I would look for and photograph the young turtles emerging from the sand and heading out on their journey. July came around, and my job on the fixed nets would stop for a few months. My buddy and I were ready to set out; we cast off from SUMMER

2 0 1 1

入港したことがあったので、なんとなく港のイ

頃には真っ暗。今までに２度ほど昼間に漁船で

そこで、やるべきことの計画を立てた。アカウ

調査のされていないの島々に決めた。

小さな港だ。しかもヨットは漁船よりも底が深

メージは湧くけれど、赤灯がひとつだけ灯る、

かを「見つける」というのは、ちょっとしたことでも、心を喜ばせてくれるものだ。話を聞いたり、昔の海岸線や砂浜の写った写真懐中電灯頼りにゆっくりゆっくり港に入る。夜

ミガメの産卵跡を探したり、島人からウミガメの

今と比べてみる。海からは、砂浜を探して島を

を探して、その写真を撮影した場所を探して、い。座礁してしまったら旅が終わってしまう。

でも僕は、ちょっとしたこと、ではなくて、凄年ほど前のこと。その、見つけたもの、とは「ウの港に入るのは危険だと痛感する。

いもの、を見つけてしまった。それは、今から５ミガメ」だ。ウミガメといってもタダのウミガメで回り、泳いでウミガメの写真や、ウミガメの見てい旅の後半には、砂浜から生まれ、太平洋を渡り

島、硫黄島、黒島からなるこの島々は、それぞれ向かい潮と向かい風に苦しみながらも、小

人口１１２人、１４２人、２１５人の小さな島々。

７月に入り、毎朝の定置網漁が、３か月間の

始めるコガメを海で探しだして、写真に撮る。

旅はトカラ列島の北にある三島村へ進む。竹

はない、足にタグ（標識番号）のついたウミガメなる景色を撮る。そして、ふ化のピークを迎える

僕は波の写真を撮りに日本の南の島、種子

のだ。島に移り住み、漁師をしながら写真を撮ってい

さなヨット moonbow2 は、１週間かけて、この３島を調査した。どこの島もまずは情報収集

る。定置網漁という体育館がすっぽり入るよう「いってらっしゃーい」

ボード。上り坂は歩いたりトレイルラン気取り

のため小学校へ向かう。移動は長めのスケート

休漁期に入った。相棒と僕は、家族に見送られ、母港の浮桟

な大きな網を毎朝８人ほどで上げて、魚を獲っ

橋からロープをはずし、梅雨の明けきらない雨

頭は入る。もちろ

ているのだが、実は、そこにはよくウミガメが迷ん保護条例でウミガメは獲ってはいけないので海

い込む。少なくとも年間

校長室に案内していただき、校長先生から直々に話を聞くことができた。ウミガメについて子供たちが研究してないかどうか尋ねたり、砂浜にウ砂浜までの行き方を尋ねたり、古い

ミガメは産卵にあがるので、島にある砂浜の写った写真や文献を見せてい竹島では、船揚げ場の斜路をウミ

ただいた。

頭もの産卵があったけれど、港の拡張で潮の流れが変わり、砂浜

島では、毎年

ガメが上って来た話しを聞き、硫黄雨ざらしというのは、気分が滅入ってくる。し

また産卵に帰ってくるんです」

というと、突然の訪問にも関わらず

小学校に着き「ウミガメの調査に来ました」

で走ったり、下りはスケートサーフィンだ。

空のもと、旅に出たのである。

大人になった年後くらいに、

メキシコまで泳いで行って、

「アカウミガメは日本で生まれ、

始まりは雨。カッパを着ていても、海の上で

に返しているのだけれど、その中の１頭の足にタグがついているのを見つけたのだ。「アカウミガメは日本で生まれ、メキシコまで泳いで行って、大人になった年後くらいに、また産卵に帰ってくるんです」そう教えてくれたのは、日本ウミガメ協議会というＮＰＯ団体。タグに書いてある電話番号へ電話をかけた時のことだ。のろま、というイメージのカメが、太平洋を横断（アカウミガメという種のみ）していたとは。しかも、産卵すその中でも屋久島と種子島が最も多いという。

盛った人口ビーチに、去年は

がなくなってしまい、島外から運んできた砂を

るのは北半球では日本の南だけで、かも、風の弱い時や、緊急時、それに港内での

頭ほど産卵して

「ウミガメ」という写真のテーマを「見つけた」

自然の力を使ったヨットがいい。そこで中古ヨッ

ウミガメを追いかけたい。それには風という

瞬間である。

航行に使うエンジンが調子悪く、予定より近い

隣の屋久島に入港することにした。なんだか

いたという。黒島ではウミガメを探しに泳ぐ径５～センチほどの小さめなアオウミガメを

と、港を出たところでこの旅第１号、甲羅の直

れは必要だ。普段は優柔不断なのに、こういう

で乗れる、というヨットを見つけてしまった。こ

古くて小さく量産されたもので、修理代だけ

ら風が吹いているので時間がかかることが予想

た。けれど、次に向かう島は北にあり、北西か

の日は潮回りから昼前が出航時間の狙い目だっ

の海峡の潮がとても速いことを教わった。出航

ものを発見。相棒をヨットに残し、カメラを抱

浜がないか探していると、双眼鏡で砂浜らしき

硫黄の匂い漂う島だ。島のまわりをヨットで砂

戦」である。その名の通り、今も噴煙を上げる

屋久島では漁師の友達に、種子島と屋久島

不安を抱えたスタートだった。

時だけ決断が速い。こうして、ヨット経験はほ

間違いだった。いくらジグザグに風上に向かって

される。待ち切れず朝に出航してしまった。大

昼過ぎまでそんなことを繰り返して、やっと

行くと、波で洗われた丸い石と、大量の軽石だ

んだか鉄臭くて不気味。無事上陸し海岸線を

がる黄緑色をした海である。舐めてみると、な

近付くと、そこは時折海底からボコッと煙の上

三島村での一番の出来事は、「硫黄島上陸作

見つけた。

とんどないのに、古くて可愛いヨットを手に入

えサーフボードでパドルを開始した。海岸線に

甘く見てはいけなかった。予定の馬毛島に付く

の思いで種子屋久海峡を抜ける。自然の力を

てしまうのだ。

は７月からの約１カ月間。日本で最も多いアカ

さて、ウミガメ探しの旅に出発である。期間ウミガメの産卵地である屋久島周辺の、今まで

「月明かりでできる虹」にした。

走っているつもりでも、また同じ場所に帰ってき

トを探してみると、バブル景気の名残なのか、

2 0 1 1

れたのだった。名前は moonbow2 、見えたら幸福になれるという、なかなか見ることのできない

SUMMER

何

Searching the Tokara Islands

harbor. Sailboats are a lot deeper in the water than fishing boats and, if we ran aground, it would be the end of the trip. We relied on our flashlight as we inched very slowly into the harbor, realizing just how dangerous it can be arriving during the middle of the night. Our journey continued on to Mishima-mura — it sounds like a town, but it’s actually a series of islands north of the Tokara Islands, including Takeshima, Iojima and Kuroshima. These tiny islands have populations of 112, 142 and 215 respectively. We spent a week in Moonbow 2 investigating the islands. At each, we would go to the local primary school, tell everyone about our sea turtle research and gather some local information. Even if we arrived unexpectedly, we were always shown into the principal’s office to talk. We would ask on which beaches the turtles were laying their eggs and how to get to them. We had heard, on Takeshima, sea turtles come up to the boat landing ramp. On Iojima, some 80 turtles previously had come ashore every year to lay their eggs but, with the expansion of the harbor, the sand beaches disappeared. Now, only about 20 turtles were coming each year to the man-made beach where sand from another island had been brought in. At Kuroshima, I was out swimming in search of sea turtles when I had my first encounter with a small green turtle with a shell about 50 to 60 centimeters in diameter.

The biggest happening was our landing on Iojima. The word io means sulfur, so it’s not surprising the smell of sulfur hangs around the island. Looking for a sandy beach, we spotted something that looked promising through the binoculars. I paddled out with my camera on my surfboard and, as I got closer to the shore, I could see smoke bubbling up from under the ocean, making it a pea-green color. The water had a weird metallic flavor. I made it safely onshore over wave-rounded stones and walked over huge fields of pumice rock. What had looked like a sand beach from the boat was actually gravel from a landslide,

next island while it was still light but, after checking the distance, it wasn’t possible. We gathered our courage and set out into the dusk. This was the only time, just as the weather report had predicted, we had heavy rain right thorough the night. My friend and I took turns at the helm, but with a very strong wind there was a lot to do on the boat. We were soaked by the rain and, while we tried taking turns napping, it was a very long night. Just as morning came, the sky also decided to clear which, coincidentally, was the end of the rainy season, something we had been waiting for. However, the sun rays were so strong, they were burning our skin. We arrived in Kuchinoshima in the afternoon. The next day I got in my trunks, grabbed my snorkel and camera and took off on my surfboard to look for turtles. During one excursion, I not only got in my first surf, but also was able to search for turtles. Summer was really here. The Tokara Islands are where the Taira family fled after their defeat by Genji in the Battle of Genpei. The local language is an unusual Kagoshima dialect, with many beautiful old words still in use. The old tradition of blackening teeth is still carried out on some islands. It’s an interesting place where lots of traditions are hidden away on the south-stretching islands. One thing we learned is, where there are sand beaches, sea turtles will lay eggs, but in too many places people have built

The beaches have either completely disappeared or have become very narrow. It’s more convenient for people, but the places where sea turtles, an endangered species, lay their eggs, are disappearing.

not a place turtles would lay their eggs. It felt as if I had crossed the ocean into hell — it was nerve-wracking to be on this uninhabited part of the island. Next, we headed south to the Tokara Islands. There are seven main islands: Kuchino-shima, Nakono-shima, Suwanose-shima, Taira-shima, Akuseki-shima, Kotakara-jima and Takarajima. No more than 100 people live on any of the islands. Gaja-shima, an uninhabited member of the group, was where we did our first navigation at night. We thought we’d be able to make it to the

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Searching the Tokara Islands

な砂は、崖崩れで砕かれた小さな尖った砂利

らけで歩きにくい。ヨットから見た砂浜のよう

であるウミガメは産卵場所をなくしている。そ

で、島から砂浜がなくなっていき、絶滅危惧種

人間が便利さを求めて港を拡張すること

と。大げさに言えば、地球の約

時期である。大きな海で小さなコガメを探すこ

すことだ。ちょうど今からが、ふ化のピークの

ンが残っている。太平洋を泳ぎだすコガメを探

％を占める

で、ウミガメが卵を産めそうなところではなかっ

して、島からは若者が出ていき、小学校も全校

生徒で人に満たないところが多い。貴重な文

た。ウミガメの形跡は何も見つからなかったけれど、地獄の海を渡り、無人島にひとりでいる

化も失われ、過疎化が進んでいる。こんな悪循

海、約３億６０００万平方キロの海で、直径５

端の宝島まであと５マイルと迫っていた。天候は

旅は、折り返し地点であるトカラ列島最南

そこで屋久島まで戻り、最も産卵が多いと言

はり産卵は屋久島が一番多いことがわかった。

作戦はこうだ。これまでの島々を見ても、や

センチほどの甲羅のコガメを探すのだ。

ある。口之島、中之島、諏訪之瀬島、平島、悪

化するウミガメは、自力で泳いで、潮に乗って、

われる浜の回りの潮の流れを考える。夜間にふ

環が南の島々で起こっていたのだ。

石島、小宝島、宝島の７島。どの島も人口は

晴れ、この旅で最も強い東風を受けながら、ス

さて、次の島からは南へ下る。トカラ列島で

気分にとても興奮した。

１００人前後。現在は無人島の臥蛇島もある。

どこを通って黒潮に乗るのだろうか考えた。狙

いは種子屋久海峡。行きの航海で潮が速く、

れを理解することができずに、時間が止まって

人間は信じられない出来事が起こった時、そ

「えっ？」

すると突然目の前から、全てが消えた。

ピードをグングンあげて快走していた。

ここへは初の夜通し航行。明るいうちに次の島に着こうと思うと、夜中走らなければ間にこういう時に限って、天気予報通り一晩中大雨

走らせ、海に浮いているゴミや流木を探す。そ

ヨットの最後部に腰掛ける。そして、ヨットを

合わない距離なのだ。余裕を持って夕方出航。である。相棒とふたりで交代しながら舵を持つ

しまうのだと知った。マスト（ヨットの中央に立っ

絶滅危惧種であるウミガメは産卵場所をなくしている。

島から砂浜がなくなっていき、

人間が便利さを求めて港を拡張することで、

ものもあるだ

るし、食べる

をひそめられ

外敵から身

ところ。鳥や

シスのような

にとって、オア

暮らす生物

海面近くで

で、その陰は

ういった浮遊物は、潮のぶつかる潮目に集まるの

朝からカメラを２台抱え、足ひれを履いて、

のだけれど、風の強さによってヨットというのは

る帆）が海面に漂っている。ヨットは引っ繰り返

ている柱）が根元から折れて、セイル（風を受け

苦難したところだ。

ながら、デッキで交代で眠る長い夜だった。やが

いろいろやることがある。雨にずぶ濡れになりて、朝と共に空が晴れ渡ってきた。それは、なんと待望の梅雨明け。夜の海の上で梅雨前線を抜けてきたのだ。そ

らないか？調子の悪い予備エンジンはかかるの

く長い潮目もあった。お昼も過ぎ、疲れと苛立

ろう。コガメもそこをきっと通るという読みだ。に痛いほどの日差しが降り注ぎ始めた。そして

か？不安が襲いかかってくる。まずはエンジンをかけてみる。かかった。でも

れからは肌予定通り口の島へ昼過ぎに到着。次の日はシュ

今ペラを回したら海に垂れているロープやワイ

数種類の魚の子供たちの鮮やかな世界に見と

ちを感じながらも、その浮遊物の下に集まる、

島々。多くの島に当時の監視用の見晴らし場

た平家が、追手を逃れて辿り着いたとされる

だけでは、種子島まで帰れない。途方にくれな

とか漂流せずに済んだ。けれどもこのエンジン

い、ゆっくり最終目的地の小宝島へ走る。なん

船は返りそうにない。トボトボとエンジンを使

分近く続

黒い小さな物体が、蝶のように羽をばたつか

が折れたあの時と同じ感覚。

やがて、一瞬時間が止まるのを感じた。マスト

れていた。

も見つけ次第飛び込んだ。泳いで

この日は、何度潜っただろうか、小さなゴミて、海水パンツ１枚で、ウミガメ探しと初サー

ノーケルとカメラを持ち、サーフボードに乗っ

るものをデッキに引き上げ、ヨットに固定する。

ヤーを巻いてしまう。とにかく海に浸かってい

所、というのが残っている。言葉使いも特徴のあ

このトカラ列島は、源平合戦で源氏に敗れ

フィン。夏が突然やってきた。

る鹿児島弁とは異なり、昔の綺麗な言葉が使

向きになったセイルを張る。小さな小さなセイ

伸びているポールをマストの代わりに立てて、横

小さな小さなセイルを張った moonbow2 は、そのコガメを撮影したフィルムを持って、しっかり種

「見つけたー」

棒に知らせた。

最近、覚えがないほどの大きな声をあげ相

せ、こちらに向かってくるのだ。

この島々を調査して分かったこと。それは、

儀式が続けられているところもあり、興味深い。

のない試行錯誤が、この裏にはもちろんあるの

ルができあがったのだ。２行の文章で済むはず

数日後、なんとかなった。ブームという横に

がらも、なんとかなる、と信じた。

砂浜のある場所にはウミガメは産卵にあがるこ

来年の旅へ、つづく。✤

と。ただ、その多くが人間の作った港や防波堤

ここからは帰り道。けれども大切なミッショ

子島に帰ってきた。島を出て、日が経っていた。まっていること。

によって、なくなってしまったり、狭くなってし

だけれど。

ある。また遠く南方の島々に多い仮面を使った

われていて、今もお歯黒の儀式が残っている島も

2 0 1 1

SUMMER

Searching the Tokara Islands

harbors or breakwaters. The beaches have either completely disappeared or have become very narrow. It’s more convenient for people, but the places where sea turtles, an endangered species, lay their eggs, are disappearing. People have also started to disappear from the islands. Many primary schools have fewer than 10 students. Precious culture is being lost as the population dwindles. We came within about five miles of the southernmost tip of the Tokara Islands where the weather was clear and the east wind about the strongest we had on the whole trip. We were enjoying some fast sailing. Then, suddenly, everything vanished in front of us. What the…? When you encounter something you simply cannot understand, it seems as if time just stops. The mast had separated at its base, and the sail had fallen and was drifting on the surface of the ocean. Will we flip over? Is our undependable engine going to work? It was an anxious moment. First we tried starting the motor. It fired up, but some rope or wire was wrapped around the propeller. We cleared it and got everything that had fallen into the ocean up on the deck. As the engine sputtered, it didn’t seem as if the boat would make it. We crawled back to our destination, Kotakara-jima. We didn’t drift off course, but we knew, with just the engine, we wouldn’t be able to return to Tanegashima. “We’ll do it some way,” I thought. We set up the boom in place of the mast and attached a tiny sail to it. I could write another story on everything that happened here, but most importantly we were on the road home, still looking for tiny sea turtles in the vastness of the Pacific, and it was right at the peak of the hatch. The fact that 71 percent of the world is covered by ocean — 360 million square kilometers of space — was not lost on us as we looked

for turtles with shells no more than five centimeters in diameter. We had been looking from island to island, but the largest number of eggs is laid on Yakushima. We decided to go back to Yakushima and drift in the current in the area where most of the eggs were laid. The turtles hatch at night, then scramble into the shorebreak and swim out and ride the currents. I thought about where they would enter the Kuroshio (Black Current). We aimed for the channel between Yakushima and Tanegashima, the place where the current was strong and a tough place to sail. From early morning I had two cameras ready and my fins on, sitting at the very back of the boat. I had my eyes open for garbage or driftwood floating on the surface, the kind of floating material that collects where two currents come together. The shade these objects provide is an oasis for many of the animals living there. They can hide from birds and other enemies and also find things to eat. I figured that’s where young turtles could be found. I can’t tell you how many times I found a little piece of garbage on the surface and dove in to take a look. I would swim for about 30 minutes in the area where the currents meet. As lunchtime passed, I started getting irritated. Yet, under the floating objects I did find several kinds of young fish — it was a clear and beautiful world under there. Then time stood still. It was the same feeling when our mast broke. I saw a little black object, looking like a butterfly beating its wings, coming toward me. I can’t even remember how loud my voice was as I called out to my buddy on the boat, “I found one!” With the tiny sail straining against the wind, the Moonbow 2 carried us back to Tanegashima, powered by the precious image of the baby turtle. It had been 31 days since we left the island on our journey. ✤

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

上げ潮じゃ H I G H T I D E By Mitsuharu Kume

「下げ潮の次は、上げ潮じゃ」

く千葉の九十九里浜へ、海水浴に親が連れ過ぎて、実感がわかない。

前、地球は

億年前。なんだか感じられない時間

血の繋がりで過去を辿っていく、面白い記そこで、事があった。

さい頃のある夏休みに、どこまでも砂浜が続

なかったので、それはそれは楽しい出来事だった。

時代（７９４年～１１９２年）まで遡るとみんな親

そのお爺ちゃんはきっお爺ちゃんは明治生まれ、と江戸時代…、と繋がり計算すると日本人は平安

て行ってくれた。生まれ育ったところの近くに海は

なにしろ今まで公園の四角い砂場しか知らなかったのに、前も後ろも足元も、全てが砂場なのだ ”

戚だった、というものだ。

「日本中、過去を辿ればみんな親戚、血が繋がっている」

から。しかも波という不規則な水もやってくる。

に、お城が崩れないよう、体を横たえて一生懸命に

それを守るため、砂砂のお城を波打ち際に作り、で防波堤を高く作った。たまにやってくる大きな波

2 0 1 1

この感じは、今とても当たり前ではあるけれど、大切。

SUMMER

守った。そして、暑くなったら浮輪につかまり、波の

うねりを飛び越えるあの浮遊感で奇声をあげた。

日本は一気に潮が引いてしまった。でも、潮は今、また満ちるもの。砂の城を、体の防波堤で守った小

uring the always-too-short summer holidays, my parents would take us swimming and sunning on the seemingly endless sand beaches of Kujikuri in Chiba. The ocean wasn’t close to where I was born and raised, so that was always a happy time for me. Until then, sand for me had meant the square sandbox at the park; now, suddenly, t here wa s unbroken s a nd stretching as far as I could see. Add to that the incoming, unfamiliar, chaotic waves. As I built sand castles on the beach, I’d also create tall sand walls to protect my creations from the waves. Sometimes, though, an especially large wave would threaten to wash away the castle, and I’d lie down and try to block the wave with my body. When it got hot, I’d hang on to my inflatable ring and scream as I floated along, rolling with the waves. When I think of what happened on March 11, I remember back to those fun days as a child on the ocean. When ocean waves seem to attack people, it’s a very sad thing. Men build things to deal with the uncontrollable, but the fact is even today these things can’t be controlled. I t a ke photo s of s e a t ur t le s , a n endangered species; I am also involved in research of these fascinating animals. I worry about the future of the turtles, but I also fear that humans will become an

人類皆兄弟だ。もっと前まで辿れば、

を襲うと言う悲しい事態。制御できないものを人

なで、いい方向に進んでいきたい。

さい頃の気持ちを思い出し、血の繋がっているみん

小さい頃の楽し３月日のことを考えていたら、かった海との出会い、を思い出した。海が、波が人間

間が作り、制御できないままの今。

「人間も自然の一部」という謙虚さを忘れずに。これからは、

「上げ潮じゃー」（物事がいい方向に進むという意味の、日本の古い言葉）

「上げ潮じゃー」「上げ潮じゃー」

ウミ絶滅危惧種であるウミガメの写真を撮り、ガメについて調査研究に携わり、ウミガメの未来を

心配していたけれど、どうやら人間も絶滅危惧種

のような気がしてならない。

いったい人間という動物は、今までどれだけ

生きてきたのだろう？人間の祖先は一説には７００万年前と言われているから、７００万年か。

恐竜は３億万年カメは１億２０００万年前、

小

Sage shio no tsugi wa, age shio ja… A rising tide always follows an ebbing one…

endangered species. How long has this human animal existed? One theory says human ancestors emerged about seven million years ago. Turtles, though, emerged some 120 million years ago; dinosaurs 300 million; the Earth about 4.6 billion. These are lengths of time of which we really can’t get a sense — they’re just too long. There was an interesting article about someone looking into blood relationships. The writer’s grandfather was born in the Meiji Era; his grandfather in turn was born in the Edo Era… by making these connections, it’s possible for some Japanese to trace their relatives to the Heian Era (794 to 1192 AD). “By pursuing these connections, we can say everyone across the country is linked by blood relationships,” the writer noted. I suppose that’s pretty much a given, but I think there’s something especially important about this today. If we go back further, we can also see mankind is one big family. Today, the waves have retreated from Japan. But the tide will always rise again. When I remember the feeling I had as I built sand breakwaters to protect my little castles, I hope all of us, tied together by biology, can move ahead in a positive direction. That we humans, too, are just one part of nature. Age shio ja. The tide is rising: things are moving in the right direction. Age shio ja.

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Story H i g a s h ide & pho tos by T Rock & Yoko im

YAP ON THE MOVE Sharks, mantas and more in western Micronesia ― シャークとマンタと海洋生物、西ミクロネシア ―

I’m in Yap, Micronesia, home of some of the most remote reefs in the Western Pacific. As I prepare to scuba dive down to Vertigo Reef, I am not thinking about manta rays even though Yap is famous for a resident population of mantas which are graceful, plankton-eating members of the shark family. My attention is on their cousins, gray reef sharks, many of which are swimming around below. 私はいま、ミクロネシアのヤップ島にいる。ここは太平洋の西、もっとも遠く人里離れた場所にあるリーフのひとつだ。ヤップ島はサメ科の仲間でプランクトンを食べるあの優雅なマンタ・レイが多数生息していることで知られる場所。今からバーティゴ・リーフでのスキューバダイブに出かけるところだが、実は私のお目当てはマンタではなく、その親戚でもあり、同じくそこに多くが暮らしているグレイ・リーフ・シャーク（オグロメジロザメ）だ。

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Island Beat

Japan Islandsâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Micronesia

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

The reefs are also among the most remote, with families of manta rays and schools of sharks living in deep, canyonlike reef channels. リーフもまた自然のままに残された数少ないもののひとつで、渓谷のように険しい深海のリーフチャンネルにマンタ・レイの家族やシャークの群れが多数暮らしている。

s I descend, I see the pack out in the blue. There may be as many as 50 sharks in the blue void. Add to that some cruising blacktips and curious whitetips, and we have quite a shark stew. Who else will show up? The island of Yap has lots to offer above and below the sea. A tiny, scenic and hilly isle, it is home to a people who still use giant stone discs as currency. Women still wear grass skirts, and men go about their villages in loincloths called thu’us. The reefs are also among the most remote, with families of manta rays and schools of sharks living in deep, canyon-like reef channels. In the last decade, pioneers such as Bill Acker at Yap Divers (www.mantaray.com) started to build a first class diving enterprise and open this special place to the world. Located in the western end of Micronesia, Yap is still considered remote by most standards. From Japan, one must fly to Guam and then catch one of the twice-weekly flights to this Micronesia outpost. The lack of heavy development and a small population means little pressure has taken place on

the coral reefs. Thus, Yap Island has developed and still has some of the healthiest corals in the Pacific. While Yap is special for seeing mantas, some great new attractions include reef shark watching, a superb habitat for colorful, mating mandarin fish next to historic O'Keefe's Island and some superb dropoff and hard coral sites. These attract everything from big schools of blackbar barracuda to the occasional school of scalloped hammerhead sharks. Yap is a great place to watch the higher end of the food chain. The waters and reef areas hold gray reef sharks, silky sharks, silvertips, whitetips, leopard sharks and blacktips. On rare occasions even whale sharks, oceanic whitetips and tiger sharks are seen in these waters. Vertigo Reef is becoming a premiere place to observe gray reef sharks cruising the blue. This is a reef where an occasional shark feed takes place. So the sharks show up for the heck of it when they hear a dive boat approach the reef. Large grays and the occasional blacktip move eerily in the water column. As many as a dozen sharks can be seen appearing in the blue out of nowhere. They may stay with divers

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

for part or the entire dive along this sheer wall. The gray reefs also can be found down the reef at a new site called Yap Corner, located at the far northern end of the Miil Channel mouth. Grey reefs, eagle rays, mantas and schooling jacks all come in here. Blackbar and sharpnose barracuda also come in for a look when the current runs. On incoming high tide, divers can drift down the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, as 100-foot walls loom on both sides. Into the channel, there’s a cleaning station where sharks line up to be preened by small, fearless wrasse fish. At Manta Ridge, 60 juvenile gray reef sharks hang in shallow water, circling in a box canyon. The sharks are curious and come in close for divers to see. Larger sharks also circle along the walls of this canyon near the Manta Ridge, and a morning sun brings clear sunlight basking rays down upon the menacing looking but curious sharks. Closer to the town of Kolonia, the Crescent Reef has had some special shark sightings as well. Known for its resident school of barracuda and frequent cuttlefish sightings, lucky divers have had a school

Island Beat

Japan Islands–Micronesia

水

中を深くもぐっていくと、真っ青な海の中からさっそく

太平洋でも有数の美しく豊かなコーラルを誇る場所になっ

た場所で不気味な動き方をしながら移動することがある。ど

一群が現れた。青い深淵の中に50頭ほどが群れて

ているのである。

こからともなく、突然深い青の中から10頭以上のシャークが

いる。それ以外にも、クルーズ中のブラックチップ・シャー

マンタに出会える場所という顔以外にも、リーフ・シャーク・

ク（ツマグロ）や不思議そうにこちらを眺めるホワイトチップ・

ウォッチングを楽しめたり、歴史に名高いオキーフス・アイラ

シャーク（ネムリブカ）などもいて、まさにシャークだらけ。まだ

ンド近くでは多数生息するカラフルなマンダリン・フィッシュ

グレイ・リーフはヤップ・コーナーと呼ばれる新たなサイト

まだ他の連中も現れそうだ。

が交尾を行う様子も見ることができたり、急斜面のハード

でもよく見られる。ミル・チャンネルの入口部分のはるか北

姿を見せ、薄いウォールに沿ってダイバーたちのダイブに付き合ったり、最後までそこにとどまったりするのである。

ヤップ島の海と陸には見どころがたくさんある。美しい景

コーラル・サイトを見たりと、見ごたえのある新たなアトラク

端にあるこの場所には、グレイ・リーフやイーグル・レイ、マ

色を持つ小さな島で、近隣の他の島よりも標高の高い丘が

ションもいろいろある。さらにこうした場所にはブラックバー・

ンタ、ジャックの群れなど、多くの種類が姿を見せる。カレン

多く、現在でも島民は一部で大きな円形の石を貨幣として

バラクーダの大きな群れや、ハンマーヘッド・シャーク（シュ

トが動く際には、ブラックバー・バラクーダやシャープノーズ・

使っている。また、女性は草や葉で作られたスカートを身に

モクザメ）の群れなども集まってくる。

つけ、男性は “thu’ us” と呼ばれるふんどし状の腰巻きで村々

バラクーダが現れることも。満潮時なら、ダイバーはそのま

またヤップ島は海での食物連鎖を垣間見る場所としても

ま太平洋のグランド・キャニオン、左右に100フィートのウォー

を移動する。リーフも自然のままに残された数少ないものの

最適だ。リーフエリアの海中にはグレイ・リーフ・シャーク、

ルが立ちはだかるエリアまで漂っていくことが可能だ。そこ

ひとつで、渓谷のように険しい深海のリーフチャンネルにマ

シルキー・シャーク、シルバーチップ（ツマジロ）、ホワイトチッ

のチャンネルへ入る途中に身づくろいのできるスポットがあ

ンタ・レイの家族やシャークの群れが多数暮らしている。

プ、レオパード・シャーク（トラフザメ）、ブラックチップが生息

り、シャークたちが列を作るようにして並び、恐れを知らない

この10年ほどの間に、ヤップ・ダイバーズ（www.

している。時にはホエール・シャーク（ジンベイザメ）、オーシャ

小さなベラが寄生虫などをキレイに食べてくれる。一方マン

mantaray.com）のビル・アッカーなどのパイオニアたちがレ

ニック・ホワイトチップ（ヨゴレザメ）、タイガー・シャーク（イタ

タ・リッジと呼ばれる場所では、ボックスのようになっている

ベルの高いダイビング事業をスタートさせたことで、この素晴

チザメ）といっためったに見られない種が現れることもある。

らしい場所が世界に知られるようになった。ミクロネシアの

青い水中をクルーズするグレイ・リーフ・シャークを見る

深い谷の浅い部分に、60匹ほどのグレイ・リーフ・シャークの子が集まり、グルグルと回る様子が見られるが、彼らはた

西端に位置するこのヤップは、現在も文字通り辺ぴな場所

には、バーティゴ・リーフが一番おすすめだ。このリーフでは

そのものだ。日本からだと、まずグアムまで飛んでから、週

シャークが獲物を食べる様子を目撃できることもあり、ダイブ

大型のシャークの方は、このマンタ・リッジ近くの深い谷

に2便しかないフライトに乗ってようやく到着する。

ボートがリーフに近づく音を聞いて勘違いしたシャークたちが

のウォールに沿うようにしながら、同じようにサークル状に

いてい興味深そうにダイバーの方へ近づいてきてくれる。

開発がゆるやかで人口も少ないため、コーラルリーフへの

すっ飛んでくることもある。また大きなグレイ・リーフ・シャー

回っていく。朝の太陽が海の中へ入ってくる時間帯には、

ダメージは現在でもほとんど見られない。こうしてヤップ島は

クや、時に現れるブラックチップなどは、水が円柱状になっ

レイがその陽を浴びるために集い、その下からはシャークが

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

The outer reefs feature some of the healthiest and most diverse hard corals of anywhere in the Pacific. The eastern shore has large coral gardens with big coral formations and interesting small invertebrate marine life.

アウターリーフには太平洋のみならず世界有数の豊かで多彩なハードコーラルが群生している。東側の沿岸には大きなコーラルガーデンがあり、小さくて珍しい海の生物がたくさん集う。

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Island Beat

Japan Islands–Micronesia

of scalloped hammerheads come in from the blue. These normally deep-water sharks sometimes come into the mouth of nearby Gabach Channel and can be seen in safe diving depths by the adventurous Yap scuba buff. Add to this the schooling bumphead parrotfish at Yap Caverns, the scores of bigeyes and lionfish at Lionfish Wall and the breathtaking hard corals at the eastern island reefs, and a diver will find more and more to see and explore. Even the playful spinner dolphins off the southern tip and near Goofnuw's Mini Wall can take hours of a diver's time at sea. A week can easily be spent exploring the island reefs, and there are some spots still unexplored. And if the reef possibilities start to run thin, one might even go looking for manta rays. This is said in jest; of course, as the channels of Yap where the mantas are found are chock full of marine life and well worth a drift dive or two. But when you add mantas, eagle rays, sharks and turtles to the mix, it’s fascinating. Yap has two types of diving. The outer reefs feature some of the healthiest and most diverse hard corals of anywhere in the Pacific. The eastern shore has large coral gardens with big coral formations and interesting small invertebrate marine life. The western side of the island features sheer dropoffs,

a cavern system and big pelagic life, such as schools of barracuda, bumphead parrotfish and grey reef sharks. The second is the channel diving. The inner channels of Yap are famous as a home for a resident school of manta rays. For best visibility, these are best dived with the high, incoming tide. At low tide, visibility can decrease as nutrients wash into the channels from the nearby mangroves, but the mantas still can be seen most of the time at cleaning stations. Yet, the most dramatic is to see them come in from the clear blue and approach ever so close. While the mantas don't live in these channels, they come in to get cleaned, to feed and to mate. Mating season, starting roughly in November and lasting until as late as April, is a superb time to watch manta interaction. Miil Channel is the most famous of the many channels around the island. The mantas form trains and do spectacular “aquabatics” as part of the mating ritual.

威嚇しながらも興味深げに彼らを眺める光景と出会える。

れに出会うこともある。通常はもっと深い場所にいる彼らは、

コロニアの町の方向へ行けばクレッセント・リーフがある。ここも特別なシャークを目撃できるところだ。バラクーダが多

Divers with a true lust for adventure should continue to be amazed by Yap as it continues to unfold a seemingly endless supply of new sea secrets. A visit to the best sites and then a try at some of the new ones is a great way to see creatures big and small in the western Pacific on the magical isle of Yap.

ヤップには大きく分けて2タイプのダイビング方法がある。

時折その近くにあるギャバック・チャンネルの入口付近に

アウターリーフには太平洋のみならず世界有数の豊かで

寄ってくることがあるためで、安全な深度内のダイブでもそ

多彩なハードコーラルが群生している。東側の沿岸には大

く生息し、カトルフィッシュ（イカ）も頻繁に登場。運が良け

の姿を目撃するチャンスがある。これもヤップならではの珍し

きなコーラルガーデンがあり、小さくて珍しい海の生物がたく

れば青い海の中から姿を現すハンマーヘッド・シャークの群

い体験になるはずだ。

さん集う。西側は険しい傾斜のある洞窟になっていて、バラそしてさらにヤップ・キャバーンズではバンプヘッド・パロットフィッシュ

クーダ、バンプヘッド・パロットフィッシュ、グレイ・リーフ・シャークの群れなど、大型で遠洋性の生物が多く暮らす。

の群れ、ライオンフィッシュ・ウォー

もうひとつはチャンネルでのダイビングだ。ヤップのイン

ル、東側の島にあるハードコーラル

ナー・チャンネルの数々はマンタ・レイの生息地として有名

の美しいリーフではビッグアイやライ

な場所。もっとも視界が良くなるのは満潮時のダイブだ。干

オンフィッシュ（ミノカサゴ）もいる。

潮時には近くにあるマングローブから栄養分がチャンネルの

他にも探せば様々な発見が待ち構

中へと流れてくるため、視界は落ちる。だが、それでも身づ

えている。南側へ行けば人懐こい

くろいスポットへ行けばマンタはほとんどの時間帯に姿を見

スピナー・ドルフィンもいるはずだし、

せている。とはいえやはり、彼らがクリアな青い水の中にド

その近く、グッフヌーズ・ミニウォー

ラマチックに現れ、こちらのすぐ近くまで近寄って来てくれる

ルも時間を忘れるほど楽しい場所と

あの体験をぜひとも味わってみてほしい。

なるはずだ。リーフを巡っているうちに1週間ほ

もともとマンタはこうしたチャンネルに住んでいるわけではなく、身づくろいや食事や交尾のためにやって来る。マンタ

どはすぐに過ぎてしまうが、それでも

の様子をフルに目撃したいのなら、11月から4月の終わりご

訪れるべきスポットはたくさん残って

ろまで続く交尾の時期がベストだ。島の周囲にはたくさんの

しまう。もしリーフでの出会いが少

チャンネルがあるが、もっとも有名な場所はミル・チャンネル

ない場合は、マンタ・レイをメインに

だ。それこそ列になってマンタが姿を見せ、交尾の儀式の

して動けばいい。よくたとえられることだが、ヤップのチャンネルでマンタを見かけたら、

一部である “アクアバティック” のような動きをする光景は壮観である。アドベンチャー好きなダイバーなら、ヤップに飽きることは

そこには、ドリフトダイブを1度か2度

ない。エンドレスに海の秘密を見せてくれる場所だからだ。

はするべき価値があるほどに多くの

ベストサイトと呼ばれる場所、それに新しい場所も含めて、

生物がいる。イーグル・レイやシャー

西太平洋に暮らすあらゆる海の生物を最高のコンディショ

クやカメが加わっていれば、可能

ンで見ることができる場所、それがヤップという魔法の島な

性はそれこそ無限大だ。

のである。

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Island Beat Japan Islands–Micronesia

TRAVEL INFO Yap is the westernmost of the four states that comprise the Federated States of Micronesia. The many islands and atolls that make up Yap State stretch hundreds of miles across the open Pacific. Yap is 500 miles southwest of Guam, 300 miles northeast of the Republic of Palau, and 800 miles east of the Philippines. Continental Airlines (www.continental.com) serves Yap, with two flights a week from Guam (Tuesdays and Saturdays) and one flight a week from Palau (Sundays). The flight time from Guam is approximately one hour and five minutes, and the flight time from Palau is about 45 minutes. Visitors need a valid passport and a return airline ticket to enter Yap and are allowed to stay up to 30 days. Immigration rules vary by country, however, so please check with your hotel or tour operator prior to your journey.

トラベル・インフォヤップ州はミクロネシア連邦の4つの州の中で一番西に位置する。ヤップ州にはいくつもの島と環礁があり、太平洋の外洋に向けて数百マイルにわたって延びている。島はグアムの南西500マイル、パラオ共和国から北東に300マイル、フィリピンからは東へ800マイルの位置にある。、グアムコンチネンタル航空（www.continental.com）が週に2便（火曜日と土曜日）からヤップへ就航しており、パラオからも週に1便（日曜日）就航している。グアムからの所要時間はおよそ1時間5分、パラオからはおよそ45分のフライト。ヤップに入国するビジターは有効期限内のパスポート、復路のエアチケットが必要で、滞在期間は30日間まで。イミグレーションの規則は国によって異なるので、旅行前にホテルやツアーオペレーターに確認しよう。

BEYOND THE BLUE If you feel like a break from all the mantas and other marine life, Yap also offers some great kayaking in mangroves and around the vast inner lagoon. Explore the passages and go snorkeling at the inner coral reefs while gliding quietly over the sea. Off-road biking is also good with many high trails and roads coursing the island. Finish your ride with a dip in the small, freshwater pit lake near the airport. And Yap has some nice hiking trails with interesting wildlife such as monitor lizards and the Yap monarch.

ビヨンド・ザ・ブルーヤップ島ではマングローブの中や巨大なインナー・ラグーンを進む最高に素晴らしいカヤック・ライドなども楽しめる。インナー・コーラルリーフでのスノーケリングも楽しい。また島中を通るいくつものハイ・トレイルを通って、オフロード・バイクを楽しむ方法もある。空港近くの小ぶりなフレッシュウォーターのピットでライドを終えれば、そのままそこに入ってリフレッシュも可能だ。さらにヤップにはハイキング・トレイルも多く、その途中ではトカゲやヤップ・モナークを含めて数多くの生物に出会うことができる。

MANTA FEST The Fifth Annual Manta Fest Photo Festival takes place Aug. 27 – Sept. 11. If you are an aspiring underwater shutterbug, this is a great time to visit the island and rub elbows with some of the top underwater shooters in the world (including yours truly, Tim Rock), experience great diving and have lots of fun. This is an island-wide celebration involving hotels and dive shops. www.mantafest.com

マンタ・フェスト 2011年8月27日から9月11日までは、第5回マンタ・フェスト・フォト・フェスティバルが開催される。水中写真に興味があれば、ぜひこの機会にフェスティバルを訪れ、世界のトップ水中カメラマンの技をチェックしてみてほしい。ちなみに私ティム・ロックも出品する。最高のダイビング以上に楽しい時間を過ごせるはずだ。このフェスティバルはホテルやダイブショップなども協力、島全体が盛り上がる大型イベントだ。www.mantafest.com

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Save water, share a bath. 一緒にお風呂で、水を節約

NAKED STRANGER

ハダカの異国人

THE

TA L E S F ROM T H E BAT H

Episode 7: The most beautiful girls in Japan 日本一きれいな女の子たち “Well, those Tokyo girls are hip, I really love those clothes they wear. And Okinawa girls with the way they talk they knock me out when I’m down there. But I wish…they…all…could be…Akita girls…” —David Lee Roth (from his unreleased Japanese album)

「東京の娘はイカしてる。ファッションだってご機嫌さ。南なら沖縄の子たちのしゃべり方もたまらないね。でもね、やっぱり女の子がみんな秋田ガールだったらいいのにな…」デイヴィッド・リー・ロス（ヴァン・ヘイレンのボーカリスト）の未発売日本版アルバムより。ちなみにこれは、ビーチ・ボーイズの曲“カルフォルニア・ガールズ”の替え歌。

ith all the sadness coming out of Tohoku recently, the Naked Stranger decided to remind people of some of the fantastic places up north in Tohoku. Other than the areas most affected by the tsunami along the coast, Tohoku is open for business. Legend has it the most beautiful girls in Japan come from Akita Prefecture. The Naked Stranger couldn’t get there quick enough to find out for himself. The legend of the Akita bijin (Akita beauty) is based largely on the reputation of one feisty old sexpot by the name of Ono Komachi. Ono Komachi was an erotic poet and famed rare beauty who tickled and tormented men with her pale skin and venomous pen back in the 10th Century. In those times, tans weren’t a great selling point and the porcelain skin of Ono Komachi still has the locals talking. So much so, she has received the highest honor

that can be bestowed on a person in Japan— they named a bullet train and a variety of rice after her. Akita is also known for one of the most famous konyoku (mixed bathing) onsen in Japan. It is called Tsurunoyu Onsen and is approximately two hours inland from Sendai near Japan’s deepest lake, Lake Tazawa. And if that isn’t enough to persuade you to visit, Akita Prefecture also has the renowned Ono Komachi Festival which boasts “seven young women wearing woven hats reciting seven waka poems.” Oooh-yeh! A pristine lake, white skin beauties, dirty poems and mixed hot springs. Now that’s an irresistible combination. And as if you need another reason to head north, knowing you’ll be supporting the people in Tohoku makes it that much better.

こ

のところずっと東北からは悲しいニュースばかりが

とになった。そう、彼女にあやかって新幹線やお米の

届く。そこで今回は東北の素晴らしいスポットを

名前が付けられたのだ。

紹介することに決めた。津波によって大きな被害を受

秋田には日本一有名な混浴温泉、鶴の湯温泉があ

けてしまった地域以外は、観光地はちゃんと営業して

る。仙台から2時間ほど内陸に向かい、日本一深い湖

いる。日本で一番美しいのは秋田の女の子だと耳にし

である田沢湖からもほど近い場所にある。もしこれでも

たネイキッド・ストレンジャーは、この言い伝えを確かめ

まだ足りないというなら、秋田県には “小野小町祭り”

るべく意気揚々と東北に向かったのであった。

なるものまでがある。7人の小町娘が市女笠に身を包

秋田美人伝説にはどうやら絶世の美女、小野小町が関係しているようだ。その整った顔立ちと色白の肌、

神秘的な湖、色白美人、セクシーな和歌、混浴温泉、

和歌の才能で世の男どもを悩ませた平安の歌人であ

こりゃあたまらないコンビネーション。おまけに東北復興

る。その時代は日に焼けた肌は良しとされず、陶器のよ

の力になれるとあれば、今すぐにでも荷物を詰めて北

うに白い小野小町の肌色は町でも評判だった。そして

上するしかないよね。

この肌のおかげで、のちの日本で最高の名誉を授るこ

み、7つの和歌を朗詠するというものだ。

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

T HE BA R E E S S E N T I A L S Tsurunoyu Lake Tazawa, Akita Prefecture / 鶴の湯温泉秋田県田沢湖 Rating: ♨ ♨ ♨ ♨ ♨ Address（所在地）:

Tazawako Sendatsuzawa Kokuyurin 50, Senboku-shi, Akita-ken 秋田県仙北市田沢湖田沢字先達沢国有林 50

Hours（営業時間）:

10 a.m. – 3 p.m. Not open Mondays for day bathing. 午前10時∼午後3時（月曜日は清掃のため、内湯のみ）

Cost（料金）:

Adult（大人）：¥500

Tel: (0187) 46-2139 Web: www.tsurunoyu.com The Upside（長所）:

The rustic old buildings, simple-yet-delicious traditional cuisine and natural mixed bathing outdoor hot springs provide a quintessential Japanese hot spring experience. It is also a great place for a combined ski holiday in the winter and nearby Tazawako Ski Area.

風情ある建物、シンプルで美味しい伝統的な食事、混浴の源泉露天風呂。日本の温泉の真髄を感じさせてくれる。田沢湖観光や、冬にはスキーの帰りに足をのばすのもおすすめだ。

The Downside（短所）:

Tsurunoyu is quite isolated and is a little difficult to access. It is not a place you would go for a day trip. Due to its popularity, it can also become quite crowded in the peak season. It is best to book accommodation well in advance. Don’t go if you are shy about baring your body to the opposite sex.

would come to recover from various illnesses with the help of the water’s healing minerals. •• Tsurunoyu has three types of water — sulphur, calcium chloride and carbonic acid hydrogen water. They are said to be remedial for high blood pressure, arteriosclerosis, rheumatism, dermatitis and diabetes. • ある日一羽の鶴が温泉に浸かって傷を癒す姿を猟師が目撃したのが鶴の湯の名前の由来だ。 • 鶴の湯温泉は乳頭温泉郷に7カ所ある温泉群のひとつ。乳頭山（標高1,478ｍ）の山麓に位置しており、温泉郷内全ての温泉は美しい登山道で繋がっているので、歩いて巡ることも可能だ。 • 1638年に秋田藩主・佐竹義隆公が湯治で訪れたという記録が残っている。 • 一般民衆が訪れるようになったのは元禄時代（ 1688 ∼1704年）で、第二次世界大戦前までは専門の湯宿場として人々に親しまれていた。 • 鶴の湯の泉質は硫黄・カルシウム塩化物・炭酸水素泉リウマの3種類。いずれも効能は高血圧症、動脈硬化症、チ、皮膚病、糖尿病など。

Accommodation（宿泊）:

Room fees ¥8,550 - ¥15,900, depending on the type of room. During the winter, heating fees of ¥1,050 per room are charged. 1泊1部屋￥8,550 ～ ¥15,900（部屋のタイプ次第）。冬季は暖房費として1室¥1,050プラスになる。

Food（食事）:

Traditional, local foods are served and can be eaten around an irori, a traditional Japanese fireplace set in the floor. Seasonal foods that may be served include sansai (mountain vegetables), yamanoimo (Japanese 町からは離れた場所にあり、アクセスはちょっと大変だ。 mountain yam), nabe (Japanese hot pot cuisine) and 日帰りで行くよりも一泊した方が良いだろう。大人気の宿 irori-grilled trout. なので、ハイ・シーズンには特に早めの予約をおすすめす地元食材を使った田舎風の食事。囲炉裏を囲み、山菜や山る。混浴に抵抗のある人にはちょっともったいないかも。の芋、鍋や岩魚など、地の味を楽しめる。

The Bare Facts（温泉）:

•• The name “Tsurunoyu” comes from the fact that a local hunter saw a crane (tsuru in Japanese) healing its wounds in the hot spring. •• Tsurunoyu is one of eight hot-spring baths that belong to Nyuto Onsenkyo located near the foot of Mount Nyuto (1,478m) and Lake Tazawa. It is possible to hike among all eight hot springs of Nyuto Onsenkyo along a beautiful forest trail. •• People have been using Tsurunoyu hot spring since 1638, when the second lord of Akita, Yoshitaka Satake, visited Tsurunoyu Onsen for therapy. •• The general public has been using the hot springs since the Genroku Era (1688-1704) and it was used as a sanatorium prior to World War II, where people

Nearby Attractions（観光スポット）:

Tazawako Ski Area, Lake Tazawa, Kakunodate Historic Town, Towada-Hachimantai National Park. たざわ湖スキー場、田沢湖、角館武家屋敷、十和田八幡平国立公園など。

Access（アクセス）:

Take the Akita Komachi Shinkansen and get off at JR Tazawako Station. There is a bus depot where you can catch regular buses to Nyutō Onsenkyo. Contact Tsurunoyu in advance, so that they can arrange to pick you up from the bus stop.

秋田新幹線こまちに乗り、JR田沢湖駅で下車。駅前に乳頭温泉行定期バスの発着所あり。バスから降りたら迎えもしてくれるので、事前連絡を忘れずに。

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Celebrating Outdoor Japan’s 10-Year Anniversary アウトドアジャパン10周年を記念して

PHOTO BY TOCHI SATO

10 for 10 10 Years 10 Questions

Ross Findlay

Nationality: Occupation: Location: Web:

ロス・フィンドレイ

1. When did you first come to Japan and what brought you here? I first came to Japan to work as a ski instructor. Australia was in a recession, and Japan was in its bubble era. I had just graduated from university, studying sports, and it was a very hard time to find jobs relating to sports in Australia. I thought coming to Japan, finding something Japanese, might help me get employment in the future in Australia. My first job in Japan ended up being with the Snow Dolphin Ski School at Teine Highland in Sapporo. The ski school head is the famous adventure skier Yoichiro Miura. The most important something Japanese turned to be my beautiful wife and super skier Yoko. While she did not help me get a job in Australia, we have definitely achieved a lot together in Japan.

2. How did you end up in Niseko? While working at Teine, my fellow instructors invited me to Niseko on our holiday. I went a few times with them and enjoyed the skiing and the feel of Niseko so much, I also came out a few times by myself. By the end of two seasons in Teine, I decided Niseko was where I wanted to be (Yoko, who was in Niseko, could have been a big factor in that decision).

3. What was Niseko like back then? Niseko, around 1990, was in the peak of the ski bubble. It was tremendously crowded. Waiting 20 to 30 minutes for a lift was the norm. Accommodation back then was one of the many pensions that crowded the Hirafu area. Mogul skiing was very popular, and many members of the Japanese team had chosen Niseko as their home resort. As always,

Niseko had a large group of local skiers. I think this is what makes Niseko so special. There has always been a bunch of young people to ski hard with, party hard with and work (as little as necessary) with. Niseko has also always had a great sense of lifestyle to it. But the most important and best thing about Niseko in 1990 was hardly anyone skied Niseko’s endless powder. That same group of locals would be skiing untracked powder in the morning and afternoon. Because of the lack of people skiing the powder, the snow would gradually get deeper and deeper. I can remember many an overhead day.

4. How has Niseko changed over the last two decades? I have seen Niseko go from a thriving resort in the early 1990s to a resort with a lot of people trying hard just to survive by the mid-’90s. The end of the Japanese ski bubble saw a lot of pensions just not getting enough customers to cover their loans. By early 2000 some had already gone under. Then in the 2001-2002 ski season, we saw an influx of foreign skiers. This was an entirely new and unheard-of market for a Japanese ski resort. These international customers would want to stay for a week or even two. This was also new for the pensions, hotels and the resort. A lot of customers wanted to stay in condominium-type accommodations. So Niseko changed from being a pension/hotel-based ski resort to a condominium/hotel resort. Hirafu saw a great increase in places to eat and drink and shop. The resort infrastructure in Niseko is now approaching the international standard.

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Australian Owner, Niseko Adventure Centre Niseko, Japan www.nac-web.com

5. When did you start the Niseko Adventure Centre and what was the inspiration behind starting your own company in Japan? By the mid-‘90s Niseko was economically desperate. Ski customers had dropped right off, and there was not much summer business. I just thought unless there were things for people to do in summer, no one would come to Niseko. Since I had been involved with kayaking for a few years, I came up with the idea of making a rafting company (laughing… “lifting” ...rafting was a new word in most Japanese people’s vocabulary). The idea was anyone would be able to enjoy the most exciting parts of the river. It would also create jobs for all the young people who came and wanted to stay yearround in Niseko. Also, if I created something for people to do for half a day, such as rafting, then others could find other options for these people. This would lead to an infrastructure that would make Niseko a resort that was fun all year, no matter how long you stayed or how many times you went there. I also wanted NAC to be an example of what could be done as an outdoor center. I think we achieved a whole new vision for the Niseko area; this has been built on and has helped lead Niseko to the international yearround resort it is today.

6. What have been some of the challenges of running a company in a foreign country or in Japan in particular? Probably the same as anywhere... crying over taxes and wages, rejoicing over profits. And accepting all people are different.

1. 日本へ最初に来たのはいつ？どうして日本へ？

ヒラフにいくつもあったペンションのどこかというのが多かっ

在を好む彼らのために、ニセコはそれまでのペンションやホ

た。モーグル・スキーもすごく人気があって、日本の代表チー

テルをベースにしたスキーリゾートから、コンドミニアムをメイ

事をするためだったんだ。ちょうどその頃はオーストラリアの

ムの選手でニセコをホームリゾートにする人も多かったよ。そ

ンにしたリゾートへと変貌を遂げることになった。ヒラフにも

景気が最悪で、逆に日本はバブルの真っ最中だった。ス

して当時もニセコには大勢のローカル・スキーヤーのグルー

ポーツ専攻で大学を卒業したばかりなのに、オーストラリア

プがいた。ニセコが持つあの特別な空気は、彼らがいるか

国内ではそれに関連した仕事が全然見つからなくてね。だ

らだと思うんだ。あそこにはいつだってガンガンにスキーをし、

最初に日本へ来たのは、スキー・インストラクターの仕

から日本へ行って何か日本的なことを身に付けられたら、そ

思いっきりパーティーを楽しみ、キチンと仕事をする（といっ

の後に戻っても仕事を探しやすいだろうと考えたんだよ。

ても怠ける時は怠けながら）若い連中が大勢いたよ。

日本での最初の仕事は、札幌のテイネ・ハイランドのス

ニセコはいつも僕らにとってはとても心地いいライフスタ

次々に飲食店や店ができていったよ。今ではニセコのリゾート・インフラは世界標準に近づきつつある。

5. ニセコ・アドベンチャー・センターをスタートする

きっかけは？日本で自分の会社を始めようと思ったのはなぜ？ ‘90年代の半ば、ニセコの景気はどん底だった。スキー

ノードルフィン・スキースクールでの仕事で、当時そこのス

イルを与えてくれる場所だったけど、1990年当時のニセコが

クールのヘッドはあの有名なスキーヤー、三浦雄一郎氏だっ

とくに魅力的だったことのひとつは、あのどこまでも続くパウ

の客足は遠のき、夏もたいした稼ぎは期待できない。だか

たんだ。だけど結局、僕にとって一番大切な日本らしさとなっ

ダースノー。そんなパウダーに踏み込んでくる一般のスキー

ら思ったんだ。夏のアトラクションがないままでいたら、ニセ

たのは、スーパー・スキーヤーでもある僕の素敵な奥さん、

ヤーはほとんどいなくて、ローカルのグループだけが朝と午

コに来る人は本当にいなくなってしまうぞって。たまたまその

ヨウコの存在だった。といっても、もちろん彼女といることが

後、好きなだけ新雪のパウダースノーを楽しめたんだ。ほぼ

数年前からカヤックをやっていたから、ラフティングの会社を

オーストラリアでの仕事探しに直接結びつくわけじゃないか

ローカルだけが独占できる状態だったから、雪もどんどん深

作ったらどうだろうと考えた。当時、 “ラフティング” という言葉

ら、ふたりで思いっきり楽しく充実した日本の日々を過ごすこ

くなっていく。オーバーヘッドの雪の中でトラックを刻んだこ

を知っている日本人は少なくて、よく “リフティング” と間違え

とにしたんだよ。

とも数えきれないほどあったよ。

られたけどね（笑）。でも、川下りというエキサイティングな体

2. ニセコに腰を落ち着けることになったきっかけは？

4. それからの20年でニセコはどんな風に変わった？

たんだ。それに、会社を作れば、ニセコに1年中滞在してい

験を誰にでも楽しんでもらえたらっていう気持ちでスタートしたいという若い人たちが働ける場所にもなるしね。

テイネで仕事している時に、インストラクター仲間に誘

1990年代初めにはすごく賑わっていたニセコが、90年

われて休みの日にニセコへ行ったんだ。その後も何度か彼

代半ばになると、多くの人たちが必死で生き残りを図ろうと

僕のところでラフティングその他で半日を楽しんでもらえ

らと行くうちに、ニセコでのスキーやあの雰囲気がものすご

苦心する場所へと変わっていった。日本のスキー・バブル

れば、自然とそれ以外の楽しみ方も生まれるし、そこで他の

く気に入って、そのうちひとりでも出かけるようになったんだ

が終わりを迎え、ペンションの多くは経営難に苦しむように

オプションが生まれる。そうすれば1年を通して楽しめるニセ

よね。で、結局テイネで2シーズンを過ごした後、ニセコへ移

なり、2000年に入った頃にはつぶれてしまったところもあっ

コのインフラもできていく。滞在の日数や回数にかかわらず

ろうと決心した（ニセコにはヨウコもいたから、正直それが大

た。だけど2001-2002年シーズンあたりから、今度は外国人

ね。そんな思いもあったんだ。あとは、このNACがアウトド

きな理由だったのかもしれないけど）。

スキーヤーが大挙して押し寄せてきた。これは日本のスキー

ア・センターとしての見本になっていくといいなとも考えた。

3. その頃のニセコはどんな感じだったの？

リゾートが初めて経験するまったく予期せぬ新しい動きに

僕らのそんな考え方がニセコを新しい姿に生まれ変わらせた

なったんだ。しかもこうした海外からのお客さんたちは、みん

んじゃないかと思うな。今やニセコは1年を通したリゾートとし

1990年頃のニセコは、まさにスキー・バブルの全盛期

な1週間や2週間ほどの長期間滞在者だ。これもまた日本

て認められているけど、ほんの少しでもその役に立てたんじゃ

だったよ。とんでもないくらいに人が多くて、リフト1回に20分

のペンションやホテルやリゾートにとっては、あまり経験した

ないかと感じているよ。

から30分待ちなんて当たり前だった。泊まる場所は、当時

ことのない出来事だった。そしてコンドミニアム・タイプの滞

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

PHOTO BY TOCHI SATO

7. How has the business environment changed in Niseko over the past 20 years? The biggest changes have been the increase of the international market. This means a necessity to have English and, if possible, Chinese-speaking staff. The change in accommodation has seen a shift away from pensions to hotels and condominium management companies. People staying for a longer time has meant we are able to create new ways to service people who are going to be here for a week or so. Increasing conference (MICE) market has meant creating original adventures for these special groups. It has definitively made it a lot more interesting. Someone told me the other day Hirafu is like an I-Phone and all the people and businesses here are the apps. I think this is a very good business model, and it is what makes Hirafu so interesting and fun for all.

6. 外国、この日本で会社を運営する大変さは？これはまぁ、どこでも同じことじゃないかな。つまり、税金や従業員の給与といったこと。その上で利益を出すこと。そ

8. Do you think people’s attitudes about travel and the outdoors in Japan have changed in Hokkaido or in Japan over the last decade? Not really. Rafting has become more mainstream, with school groups and families wanting to partake. Perhaps I am living in a sheltered area, where most of the locals love the outdoors. I have yet to see a change in the management of National Parks, forested areas and rivers in respect to outdoor sports usage.

9. What would you like to see happen in Niseko and/or with NAC over the next 10 years? Niseko is a fantastic place with the potential to become Japan and Asia’s first year-round, outdoor sports and lifestyle resort area. The area is already heading in this direction, and it is exciting to be in an area with so much change and progress.

7. ビジネスの面で、この20年ニセコで大きく変化したことは？

やっぱり一番大きいのはインターナショナル・マーケット

10. What do you like to do for fun and to relax when you are not running NAC? At the moment, while not relaxing, but sort of fun, I am making a house for our family. On the family side, while not relaxing, but definitely fun, I enjoy watching our four boys grow up. Personally, definitely not relaxing, but fun in a suffering sort of way, I have enjoyed bicycle road racing for the last five years. What do I do to relax...sleep.

こにいる人々やここのビジネスはappsだ、と。今ここではす

ニセコは、日本のみならずアジアを代表するようなイヤー

ごくいいビジネスモデルが展開されているし、ヒラフはみんな

ラウンドのアウトドア・スポーツ・リゾートになる可能性を秘

にとって魅力的で楽しい場所になっていると思うよ。

めた場所だと思うんだ。すでにそうなりつつあるし、その過程をつぶさに目撃し続けている自分のポジションにワクワクもし

れと、様々なタイプの人がいるってことをキチンと理解すること。そんなことかな。

For NAC, I would like to see it grow to supply more adventures in more areas of Hokkaido. Also, to be able to offer more year-round employment to young people.

8. 北海道に限らず、日本の人たちのアウトドア・トラベルに対する考え方はこの10年で変化した

ているよ。

NACについては、今後北海道の他の地域でも多くのア

と感じる？

ドベンチャーを提供できるような存在になっていけたらと思っ

そんなことはないんじゃないかな。でも今ではラフティン

ている。

グもメジャーになりつつあって、学校の課外活動や一般の

10. NACを離れている時間には、どんな楽しみ方や

の拡大かな。だけどそれは同時に英語、可能なら中国語を

家族連れなんかも興味を持つ対象になってきたよね。僕自

話せるスタッフを揃えなくちゃいけないということでもある。宿

身がずっとアウトドア好きなローカルに囲まれた特殊な環境

泊面でも、ペンション的なものからホテルやコンドへの転換

にいるからかもしれないけど。ただ、アウトドアを楽しむ者とし

家族のための家を建てているところなんだ。完全にリ

が必要になってきた。長期間滞在する人が増えれば、それ

ては、これからもまだやるべきことは多い。国立公園の管理

ラックスしてできる作業じゃないけど、楽しい作業でもあるよ。

だけサービスの方法が増える。また、カンファレンス（MICE）とか森林区域や川の整備とか、もっとキチンと整えるべきこマーケットが増えてきている今は、彼らに合ったオリジナル

誰かが言ったんだ。ヒラフはまるでi-Phoneのようで、こ

家庭では、これももちろん大変な作業とはいえ、100％楽しく

とはたくさん残っている。

幸せなことといえば、4人の息子たちの成長を見守ること。

9. これからの10年、ニセコやNACはどう変わって

自転車のロードレースを5年ほど続けている。じゃあ本当にリ

のアドベンチャーを作る必要も出てきているけど、そうした変化がすべての面にいい影響を与えていると思う。

リラックス法を？

個人的には、リラックスというよりかなり過酷なことだけど、

いくべき？

ラックスする時といったら…？眠ることかな。

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SUMMER ACTIVITY GUIDE

GO OUTSIDE AND HIKING & TREKKING

Mt. Fuji

Yamanashi and Shizuoka www.fujiyamaguides.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

If one landmark symbolized Japan, it would undoubtedly be Mt. Fuji. The sacred mountain has been climbed as a Shinto pilgrimage for more than 1,000 years. Today, the official climbing season is July and August when the trail is packed, especially on weekends. Unofficially, September and even October can be more pleasant; just keep a close eye on the weather. Traditionally people stay at Stage 8 and start hiking at midnight to see the beautiful sunrise at the summit. It’s possible to start from the car park at Stage 5, but you need to be fit and make good time to get to the top for sunrise.

KAMIKOCHI Nagano

www.kamikochi.or.jp

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Kamikochi, part of the Chubu-Sangaku National Park, is one of the most revered hiking areas in Japan, with everything from day-hikes to serious multi-day treks. Access is by bus, taxi or bicycle, since roads are closed to private vehicles. After a long hike or a few days in the mountains, head to one of the hot springs at either Kamikochi Onsen Hotel or Shimizu Onsen Hotel.

Daisetsuzan National Park Hokkaido

www.japan-adventures.com / www.asahikawa-tourism.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Commonly referred to as “the roof of Hokkaido,” Daisetsuzan National Park is home to the biggest mountains on Japan’s north island. The diverse landscape, flora and fauna and the breathtaking views attract hikers and campers. This is serious terrain, and home of higuma (Hokkaido brown bear), so be sure you bring the proper gear, as the weather can change quickly during any season.

Yakushima Kagoshima

www.ynac.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

One of Japan’s most interesting hiking destinations is an island in southern Japan. Yakushima is no ordinary island, though. It receives the highest annual rainfall in Japan (be sure to bring raingear), is home to a 10,000-year-old tree (Jomon Sugi), leatherback turtles, white sand beaches and Kyushu’s tallest mountain. It was also awarded World Heritage status in 1993.

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

PLAY!

Whether you are into thin air or fat tires, running trails or running rapids, splashing into canyons or paddling around new places, there’s plenty to do this summer in Japan.

MOUNTAIN BIKING

Fujimi Nagano

www.fujimipanorama.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Nagano is geographically right in the middle of Japan. It’s also considered the center of the MTB scene. Fujimi Panorama Ski Area has been operating a downhill MTB course for more than a decade. There are good downhill bikes and protective gear for hire and, once you are off the gondola, you have 700 vertical meters and three courses to enjoy on your way down.

NORIKURA Nagano

www.ridenorthstar.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Stretching to the east of Mt. Norikura (3,026m), Japan’s 10th highest mountain, Norikura Kogen is a large plateau with amazing views. The area is an excellent cycling destination for both road and mountain biking. Enjoy some epic hill climbs or some awesome single track while taking in the vistas.

TRAIL RUNNING

IZU PENINSULA Shizuoka

www.adventure-divas.com/english

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Izu Peninsula is a treasure trove of trails for runners to explore. There are breathtaking coastal trails overlooking the ocean, fun single-track foot paths interconnecting small fishing villages and lush forest trails leading to outdoor hot springs and beautiful waterfalls. And, after working up an appetite, you can enjoy some delicious, freshly caught seafood from the surrounding waters.

HAKUBA Nagano

www.adventure-divas.com/english

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

The beautiful snow-capped mountains of Hakuba are a part of what is known as the “Japanese Alps.” The trails here lead up to lofty peaks and boast stunning and dramatic mountain vistas and, if your timing is right, an incredible sea of clouds below. Go prepared, though; these are serious mountains, tough and steep but offering rewards for intrepid trail runners looking for adventure.

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SUMMER ACTIVITY GUIDE

GO OUTSIDE AND PLAY!

WHITE WATER RAFTING

YOSHINO RIVER Kochi and Tokushima www.happyraft.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Yoshino River in Shikoku is one of Japan’s most beautiful white water experiences in Japan, with beautiful canyons and crystal clear water. The year-round consistency of the river levels and the exciting Koboke and Oboke sections makes the Yoshino one of Japan’s most thrilling rafting rivers.

NAGARA RIVER Gifu

www.adventures.jp

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Gifu Prefecture is an outdoor playground for people living in the Nagoya area, but it’s also reachable from Kansai and Kanto. The river that runs through Gifu is the scenic Nagaragawa. Its headwaters flow unimpeded by any dams, unusual in Honshu. Although the Nagaragawa is great for leisurely floats, there are several Grade 2-3 rapids that will provide some thrills.

CANYONING

MINAKAMI Gunma

www.canyons.jp

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Minakami is widely considered the birthplace of canyoning in Japan. It has a great selection of aquatic canyoning courses, ranging from mellow half-day courses, great for first timers or families, to adrenalinpacked full-day adventures. The high water season is from May until June, but the more advanced canyons open from July.

HAKUBA Nagano

www.evergreen-hakuba.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Japan’s Northern Alps tower roughly 3,000 meters above Hakuba Village, receiving heavy snowfalls each year. Come spring, the pure snow melts, feeding the many waterways including Kamoshika Canyon. In spring, the high water is great for adventure seekers and, in summer, the water level is perfect for families and children who enjoy flying foxes, waterfall repels, natural slides and more.

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Adventure Weekend & Charity Event

Sept. 3, 2011

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SUMMER ACTIVITY GUIDE

GO OUTSIDE AND PLAY!

ADVENTURE

BUNGY JUMPING Gunma

www.bungyjapan.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Japan’s only bridge bungy can be found in Minakami. The 42-meter bridge spans the Tone River and features spectacular views of the Tanigawa Range. But, if you are brave enough to step out on the platform and take the ultimate leap of faith, you’ll likely be focused on what’s below. This personal challenge is a great way to overcome your fear and enjoy an experience you’ll never forget.

FOREST ADVENTURES Yamanashi, Chiba, Kanagawa, Tochigi www.foret-aventure.jp

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Many believe forests have therapeutic powers. What is undeniable is walking through or climbing among Japan’s many forests offers a refreshing escape from the hectic pace of modern life. With roots in France (La Fôret de l’Aventure), Japan’s Forest Adventure parks feature rope swings, rope bridges, net climbs, tree ladders and zip lines that are challenging but safe for all ages to climb, swing and step across.

SEA KAYAKING

SADO ISLAND Niigata

www.visitsado.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Once a place of exile, Sado Island is now a paradise for sea kayakers. Its rough, wave-blasted west coast means endless stretches of rock gardens, arches and sea caves; the east more gentle and green. It’s not small, though — circumnavigation means more than 200 kilometers, but shorter guided journeys are possible.

KII PENINSULA Wakayama

www.kumano-experience.com

SEASON 1

9 10 11 12

Wakayama’s Kii Peninsula (Kii Hanto) is so big it is hard to call it a single destination. The area is not only rich with nature and history, but also offers some good paddling. Some areas can be more challenging due to strong currents, so inquire at a local water sports shop or grab a local guide. If you have the time, the nearby World Heritage area of Kumano is worth a visit.

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

SWING INTO SUMMER

Most people’s view of golf in Japan is that it’s an expensive sport, only for those with hole-in-one insurance and the latest flashy and colorful Ryo Ishikawa-esque clothing. In fact, Japanese golf is more accessible than ever. There are plenty of options for anyone looking for a casual game with some friends. For years, there have been courses where English is spoken welcoming foreigners, and even foreign staff on hand to help iron out your plans. Whether you are a Japan veteran or a first-time visitor, here are a few courses that won’t break the bank, yet have English support and some amazing featured holes, allowing you to truly experience Japanese golf at its finest.

Murasakizuka Golf Club

Gotemba Golf Club

Haruna no mori, Golf Course

Sakura, Tochigi

Gotemba, Shizuoka

Takasaki, Gunma

www.murasakigc.com

www.gotembagolf.com

www.harunanomori.jp

Not too far from the spiritual mountain forests of Nikko, this 27-hole, 40-year-old classic was designed by John Benzel and styled after Californian courses. The course also features a great hotel with an outdoor pool and onsen.

The views of Mt. Fuji throughout the course provide plenty of “Kodak moments,” and the course itself is fun to play and not too demanding for higher handicaps. The Gotemba Kogen Brewery and beer hall makes for a perfect “19th Hole” with nearby cottages available to stay.

Designed by the Golden Bear, Jack Nicklaus, this course is a bit more expensive than the others but, at 700 meters above sea level, it offers a nice reprieve from the summer heat and some spectacular views of Mt. Asano and the mountains surrounding Karuizawa. It’s a thinking-man’s course with light-ning fast greens and many fairway bunkers.

ACCESS: Two hours from Tokyo on the Tohoku Expressway by car and two hours on the ShonanShinjuku Line. RATES: Various packs and deals available. Weekdays: ¥6,900. Weekends: ¥10,900.

ACCESS: One hour, 45 minutes on the Tomei Expressway from Tokyo by car. RATES: Guest play fee: ¥8,800 for midweek and ¥15,900 on weekends.

ACCESS: One hour, 45 minutes on the Kanetsu Expressway by car or an hour 45 by train from Tokyo. RATES: Guest play fee: ¥7,500 for midweek and ¥13,300 on weekends.

CITY HACKERS

DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

If you are looking for a quick, relatively cheap day out, or just want to get in a bit of practice before heading to a more serious outing, check out some of the socalled “river courses.” These cheap, relaxed and fun courses are conveniently located along some of Tokyo’s rivers.

Murasakizuka Golf Club

Tamagawa Golf Club Par 27, 9-hole course near Futako Tamagawa Station. Play 18 holes on the weekend for as little as ¥6,000, and ¥5,000 on weekdays. Tel: (044) 411-6227.

Sakura, Tochigi Whether you call in sick or just take a day off, the mid-week Takarabune Package at Murasakizuka G.C. is worth it. Head up after work, enjoy a western or Japanese set dinner at the hotel, relax in the natural rock onsen and get a good night’s sleep in one of the western-style rooms or villas. Wake up to a breakfast buffet at the clubhouse before 18 holes of great golf, all for just ¥10,900.

Riverside Golf Kawasaki

JAPAN GOLF TIPS 1. Jeans and uncolored T-shirts are not OK, but you can generally get away with shorts and even sneakers during the summer months. 2. Tattoos can be an issue but, if you keep them covered on the course and in the clubhouse, there won’t be any problem. 3. Rental clubs are usually available for ¥2,000¥4,000 but remember to buy balls in Tokyo, as they can be very expensive at the course. Check out some of the recycle golf shops for some good deals on clubs.

Par 32, 9-hole course near Kawasaki Station. Weekdays 18 holes for ¥5,900; weekends ¥7,800. Tel: (044) 555-4311.

Tokyu Golf Park Tamagawa Par 27, 9-hole course, a 15-minute walk from Oyamadai Station. Weekends ¥7,000 a round, and ¥5,600 on weekdays. Tel: (03) 3701-7101.

4. Discounts are available for group bookings and, on some courses for groups of 10 or more, buses are available to run you and your crew to and from the course.

Koshigaya GC Saitama

5. Looking for golf buddies? Check out some of the foreign golf groups such as Goljfjin.com.

This par 72, 18-hole river course is a step up from other river courses. They offer lunch and 18 holes for ¥6,500. Located near Yoshikawa Station, it’s very easy to reach by train or car. Tel: (048) 982-2311.

For more information on Golf in Japan, and for a full listing of courses in Japan, check out Outdoor Japan’s golf site: www.golfinjapan.com.

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

OJ CLASSIFIEDS

■ HOKKAIDO ■ TOHOKU ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAI

■ HOKKAIDO

BLACK DIAMOND LODGE

NISEKO

BDLODGE.COM

JAPAN

■ HOKKAIDO

Japan Adventures www.htholidays.com

Your Japan Hiking Specialists

Niseko’s Finest www.japan-adventures.com

Japow Tours is a rider driven guide company with a unique approach to oﬀ trail & backcountry snowboarding in the Hakkoda Mountains.

八甲田山

■ AOMORI

■ IWATE

A space to relax and be one with nature is close by ... APPI Resort

www.appi.co.jp 72

SUMMER

- The Heart of Northern Tohoku in Japan -

2 0 1 1

Lifestyle Directory

■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OUTSIDE JAPAN ■ GEAR & SERVICES

■ NAGANO

■ FUKUSHIMA

■ NAGANO

Te l:( 02 6

5 t ar erson per nig00 Ster p ht ) (p

at in the cool br ee r he ze me m of su

ba ku Ha

Be at t

GIN DE W O ing from ¥2,

KUBA HAR LOD

1 0-1

-9

:09 C ell Web: www.hakubapowderlodging.com

■ NAGANO

-8 1

■ NAGANO

inaka home

[DOT] W I Nof N E R

GREEN AWARDS www.GreenDotAwards.com

■ NAGANO

Summer HAKUBA IN

■ NAGANO

- Exclusive range of luxury cabins, chalets and apartments - Great range of summer activitives - Car and bike rentals arranged

y Heat Escape the Cit www.hakubaresort.com TEL (81) 0261 72 6663 info@hakubaresort.com

Hakuba Office :

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

OJ CLASSIFIEDS ■ NAGANO

■ HOKKAIDO ■ TOHOKU ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAI

■ NAGANO

MTB, Rock Climbing, River Hike...

親子MTBキャンプ 2011 Oyako MTB Camp

日程： 2011年8月13日(土)−14日(日) 対象：小学4年生∼中学生のお子さん*とそのご両親定員： 10名（5組）

参加費：￥38,000 問い合わせ：NORTHSTAR outdoor adventures www.ridenorthstar.com | 0263-93-1688

■ NAGANO

www.sierrahakuba.com

■ NAGANO

Stay and Play in beautiful Norikura Kogen with an adventure package at NORTHSTAR and the Halenoa Lodge. We offer a full lineup of Green Season Outdoor Fun and if your not so adventurous then you can still enjoy beautiful Norikura Kogen with a dip in one of the Onsens and some local Soba. GUIDED FUN • Beginner MTB Lessons with rentals • Guided MTB Tours • River Hiking UNGUIDED FUN • Road Biking to the top of Mt. Norikura • Trail Running / Hiking • Local Onsen (Hotsping) • Day trips to Mt. Norikura, Kamikochi, Matsumoto City & Takayama City

www.ridenorthstar.com

■ NAGANO

Summer ¥8,500 Winter ¥9,500 (per person with meals)

GREEN SEASON

NORTHSTAR outdoor adventures 4306 Azumi, Matsumoto-shi Nagano-ken Ph: 0263.93.1688

■ NAGANO

Long stay packages also available

■ NAGANO

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OUTSIDE JAPAN ■ GEAR & SERVICES

■ GUNMA

■ IBARAKI

■ NAGANO

■ GUNMA

Lifestyle Directory

■ KANAGAWA

Refresh your Mind, Body & Soul

LAKE ASHINOKO CAMPING VILLAGE

“EXPERIENCE KANAGAWA” PRIVATE LAKESIDE WOOD CABINS AND COTTAGES

Refreshing outdoor adventure experiences under 2 hours from Tokyo!

Whitewater rafting, canyoning, adventure combos..... 0278-72-2811 www.canyons.jp SUMMER

2 0 1 1

saito@kanagawa-kankou.or.jp | 0460-84-8279

www.kanagawa-kankou.or.jp

OJ CLASSIFIEDS

■ HOKKAIDO ■ TOHOKU ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAI

■ KANAGAWA

■ TOKYO

■ SHIZUOKA

IZU SHIMODA

自然の中で遊ぼう！

GET WET, GET HAPPY! International License for SURF LESSON

www.real-surf.com

■ KANAGAWA

■ YAMANASHI

NATURAL ACTION ★ TEL: 0544-65-1123 ¦ info@naturalaction.co.jp http://www.naturalaction.co.jp

Surf Shop, Lessons and Rentals Okuda Style Surfing • Located in Kamakura 0467-23-8284 • www.padobo.com

■ SAITAMA

関東から一番近いラフティングスポット富士川 Fuji River, The closest rafting spot to Tokyo

■ KANAGAWA

rip eal T our R S t a r t s Y e r e W h eF r a n c t o

nan e in Sho ance e t a n q u r F n r P e S o u t hu i s i n e , e c n e C i E x p e rg u a g e , Lan

Tel/Fax: 0466-24-5381 www.soleilprovence.com ■ TOKYO

■ TOKYO

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Shichirigahama, Kamakura

www.easysurf.jp Phone: 0467-55-5702

■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OUTSIDE JAPAN ■ GEAR & SERVICES

■ NARA

■ KOCHI

PPYRA A H

Lifestyle Directory ■ OKINAWA

rR te

SHIKO FT

n`s B est Whi te pa -W Ja a

i ng a nd Ca nyo a ft ni ng

res. ntu ve Ad

. KU

■ TOKUSHIMA

■ MICRONESIA

.com ppyraft info@ha 0 0 5 0 5 0887 7 Otoyo-cho 8 ra a h a Iw 789-015 10-4 ochi-ken com K t. .c f n a ft u r -g a appyra Nagaok ://www.h

ft http aft HappyR

■ MICRONESIA

■ THAILAND

■ TAIWAN

KOH LANTA KRABI THAILAND

email: reservation@pimalai.com

www.pimalai.com

Discover Nature, Discover Yourself. ■ BALI 癒しの空間で... 波を心いくまで満喫...

Feel at home... Enjoy the ride...

サーフィンガイドサーフィンコーチラグジャリーな宿泊施設

Surf Guiding Surf Coaching Luxury Accommodation

www.thechillhouse.com SUMMER

2 0 1 1

OJ CLASSIFIEDS

■ HOKKAIDO ■ TOHOKU ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAI ■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OUTSIDE JAPAN ■ GEAR & SERVICES

■ INDIA

■ GEAR & SERVICES

Food & fun from home!

FBC is the easiest way to get food and fun from home, direct to your door – anything from cereals, cheeses, health foods, kid’s books & games to seasonal goods!

■ GEAR & SERVICES

Air-golf.com Golf this summer on two of Tochigi’s top courses!

■ GEAR & SERVICES

Office Network & Computer Support Database Development Website Development VoIP Telephone Systems Online Marketing www.showcase-central.info

FIND YOUR PERFECT GETAWAY!

www.emissary.co.jp | 03-3365-1978 ■ GEAR & SERVICES

Japan Resort Properties

WADANO LODGE, HAKUBA www.wadanolodge.com

Live your lifestyle.

Resort Properties in Hakuba and Niseko

Find your perfect getaway in japan at

www.JapanPropertyListings.com 78

SUMMER

2 0 1 1

Phone: 03-3556-8887 info@yamate-homes.co.jp www.yamate-homes.co.jp