SUMM E I S S U ER 2 0 1 2 44 JAPAN TRAVELER
Night Dancing with a Kyushu Sun Goddess
WORLD TRAVELER
A Rare Micronesia's Gem
夜神楽と九州の太陽神
ポンペイ島：ミクロネシアの至宝
FOOTSTEPS INTO THE PAST
Freeriding the Hidden Kingdom
Historical Hikes in Kansai 過去へ向かう足跡 –– 関西歴史探訪
隠された王国でのフリーライド
FIELDS OF DREAMS
Inakadate's Tambo Art 田舎館村 田んぼアート
Explore the World of
Geocaching ジオキャッシングの世界を探検
Summer Surf Guide Summer Beer Gardens
ACTION
■
ADVENTURE
■
OUTDOORS
■
TRAVEL
I N S I D E O J T R AV E L E R
FEATURES
Photo cover by Rob M. Dupuis
10 18
Night Dancing and Stories of a Kyushu Sun Goddess 夜神楽と九州の太陽神 By Lee Dobson
OUTDOOR JAPAN TRAVELER Published Seasonally
Explore the World of Geocaching
ジオキャッシングの世界を探検 By Rob M. Dupuis
Publisher Outdoor Japan Inc. Editor-in-Chief Gardner Robinson Editor William Ross
26 32 38 46
Footsteps into the Past
Business Development Director Luke McDonald
過去へ向かう足跡 –– 関西歴史探訪 By Matt Malcomson
Art Director Yuki Masuko
Fields of Dreams Inakadate Tanbo Art
Contributing Editors Wayne Graczyk, Eri Nishikawa, Takashi Osanai
田舎館村 田んぼアート By Gardner Robinson & Rika Cook
Administration & Distribution Rika Yamada
Pohnpei: A Rare Micronesian Gem
ポンペイ島：ミクロネシアの至宝 Story & photos by Tim Rock
Illustration Eureka! Translation Daisuke Kondo, Kumiko Kurosaki Junco Mitsui, Takeshi Sato Contact Information: Outdoor Japan Inc. J-HANK Chigasaki B / 4-10 Heiwa-cho, Chigasaki-shi, Kanagawa 253-0024
Where the Trail Ends
トレイルが終わる場所 By Pat O’Keeffe
〒253-0024 神奈川県茅ヶ崎市平和町4-10
J HANK 茅ヶ崎B号
Tel: (0467) 81-3212 Fax: (0467) 81-3213
6 36 52
53
Inside Out
By Craig Yamashita
Cycling Japan By Takashi Niwa
Summer Overload
Tour of Doto, Hokkaido
夏のオーバーロード
北海道 道東地方を巡る
54
High Tide
By Mitsuharu Kume
OJ Creative: creative@outdoorjapan.com
Japan Angler
www.facebook/japantraveler
By Abdel Ibrahim
Sailboats
Going Out On Top
帆舟（ほぶね）
シーカヤックで釣りを楽しむ
Editorial: editor@outdoorjapan.com Advertising: ads@outdoorjapan.com Subscriptions: subscribe@outdoorjapan.com Comments: comments@outdoorjapan.com
www.twitter.com/outdoorjapan www.youtube.com/outdoorjapan
The Local Brew By Bryan Harrell
Outsider Brewing アウトサイダー・ブルーイング
4 From the Editor Contributors, Columnists & Cohorts
©2012 OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED. VIEWS EXPRESSED HEREIN ARE NOT NECESSARILY THOSE OF OUTDOOR JAPAN.
8 Race and Events Spotlights 56 Surf Guide
Kanagawa & Shizuoka
60 Summer Beer Garden 61 OJ Classifieds
Lifestyle Directory
Make deep turns. Ride your bike.Take a bath. Ride a wave. Hit the slopes. Climb something. Explore. SUMMER
2 0 1 2
3
FROM THE EDITOR
Contributors, Columnists and Cohorts
Gardner Robinson, Editor-in-Chief Lee Dobson
‘Now everyone can travel’
T
hese are interesting times for Japan travelers. This summer three low-cost air carriers will take off in Japan giving the old boys a run for their money. Earlier this year I was at a travel conference where a minister from Malaysia gave a presentation on the success of Air Asia, the Malaysiabased low-cost airline. In 2001, a group led by Tony Fernandes, a former TimeWarner executive, purchased the struggling airline for a token one Malaysian Ringgit (about ¥25). The catch was he also had to take the airline’s US$11 million debt. Fernandes improved airline efficiency, crew productivity and launched an aggressive marketing campaign featuring promotional fares for as little as he paid for the company, one Ringgit. Astonishingly, Air Asia turned a profit in 2002. At the time, Malaysian Airlines had a monopoly on the domestic market, and the national carrier feared this upstart would pilfer some of its market share. In 2003, when Air Asia launched its first international flight to Bangkok, other regional carriers got nervous as well. Yet, Air Asia didn’t steal passengers; it found new ones attracted to its no-frills service, low fares and motto, “Now everyone can fly.” While companies all over Japan desperately hold on to antiquated systems, the airline industry here has a chance to
リー・ドブソン
show them the way, and they have the road map to do it. In March 2012, Kansai-based Peach Aviation, an ANA affiliate, became Japan’s first budget airline. On July 1, Peach launched its first international flight between Kansai and Hong Kong. AirAsia Japan, also affiliated with ANA, will launch domestic flights out of Narita in August, and international flights in October. Meanwhile, Jetstar Japan, affiliated with Japan Airlines, begins domestic flights in July and will start international flights in 2013. With rates up to 50 percent less than full-service carriers, these new flights should boost travel to and within Japan at a time when the yen is stronger than ever, and so is the temptation to travel overseas and spend it. Affordable air travel in Japan is a refreshing step in the right direction, but should we stop there? Can bullet train tickets become more affordable? Can we finally abolish expressway fees? What Japan can take from the Air Asia story is that some people will try to hold on to their old piece of the pie with both hands. Those with vision will bake more pies, sell them for less, then open a new pie shop and help grow the pie market. We wish the new carriers in Japan well and hope you like our latest issue while enjoying the sizzling summer.
Matt Malcomson
Rob M. Dupuis
ロブ M・デューピス
Tim Rock
マット・マルコムソン
ティム・ロック
Pat O’Keeffe
Craig Yamashita
パット・オキーフ
クレイグ・山下
誰でも旅が出来る時代がやってきた
こ
りとした計画と共に新たなやり方を示した。
社の登場により、日本の旅行者にとっては面白い時期を迎
2012年3月、関西を拠点に日本初の格安航空会社となった
えた。先日旅行のカンファレンスに参加したのだが、ここでマレー
ANAの関連会社ピーチアビエーションは7月1日には初のインター
シア観光局の大使がエアアジアの成功についてプレゼンしてい
ナショナルフライトを関西-香港間でスタートさせた。同じくANAの
た。エアアジアとはマレーシアの格安航空会社のことである。
関連会社であるエアアジアジャパンは8月に成田初の国内便を、
の夏日本の空を新たに飛ぶことになった3つの格安航空会
2001年、経営に行き詰ったエアアジアは、タイムワーナーの
10月にはインターナショナルフライトをスタートさせる。一方ジェッ
社の前役員だったトニー・フェルナンデス率いるグループに１マ
トスタージャパンはJALの関連会社で7月に国内便を、インターナ
レーシアリンギット （25円）で買収された。どういうことかって？ト
ショナル便は2013年から就航の予定だ。
ニーの会社は同時に1100万ドルの借金を抱えることになったの だった。
久米 満晴
Bryan Harrell
ブライアン・ハレル
フルサービスの航空会社に比べて価格は半額以下、円高の 今、こういった新しい航空会社が日本国内はもちろん、日本へ
フェルナンデスは機体の納期、乗務員の生産性、効率化など というア を改善、更にチケット代が１マレーシアリンギット （25円） グレッシブなマーケティング等を行い、なんと翌2002年には利益 を上げた。
の観光客も増やすと同時に、海外で円を使う後押しもしてくれそ うだ。 日本国内での旅行をより手の出しやすい価格にし、新たな旅 行者を取り込んでくれそうな格安航空会社の方向性は間違って
当時国内のマーケットを独占していたマレーシア航空は、この 成り上がり企業にマーケットのシェアを奪われるのではと恐れてい たわけだが、2003年にエアアジアが最初のインターナショナル便 をバンコクへ飛ばすと、他の航空会社も同じように心配し始めた。
いないが、同時に新幹線のチケットはもう少し安くできないものだ ろうか。高速道路料金は約束通り廃止にはならないのか。 エアアジアの躍進から日本が学ぶべきはここにある。目先の 利益しか見えてないような会社は、目の前のパイの自分たちの取
で、これが日本にどう関係があるのか、であるが、エアアジア
り分を両手で必死に抑えて手放さない。明確なヴィジョンがある
は既存の旅行者を奪うことなく、低価格と不要なサービスの排
会社は自分たちでパイを焼き、それをより低価格で提供し、更に
除、そしてNow everyone can fly、つまり、誰でも旅が出来る時代
新しいパイのお店を開いてパイ業界を成長させるのだ。
になったというモットーで新たな顧客を獲得したのであった。 日本の多くの会社が時代遅れのやりかたに固執しながらハラ ハラしている一方で、このエアラインはそういった会社に、しっか
というわけで、新しい航空会社の躍進を祈るとともに、読者の みなさんには是非この最新号と嬉しい夏の到来を楽しんでいただ きたい。
editor@outdoorjapan.com 4
Mitsuharu Kume
SUMMER
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Takashi Niwa 丹羽 隆志
Abdel Ibrahim
アブデル・イブラヒム
By Craig Yamashita Illustration by Eureka! Translation by Aya Aoki
Summer Overload Everybody’s favorite utility company is at it again, so Kanto area residents get ready to pay the price, literally. Summer energy saving measures will again be implemented, however the Beer Garden Urinal Turbine we proposed here will not. But we haven’t given up! Here are some new energy saving innovations for you. You’re welcome!
Lightweight silicone outer
生活する上で欠かせない、あの公益事業会社がま た 騒 動を起こしている。そのツケを、関 東に残っ た我々に回すようだ。夏の節電、再び。去年この誌 面で提 案した 『ビ アガーデン小 便 器 発 電 法 』は実 現しなかったが、そこで 諦める我々で はない。更 に磨きあげた革新的な節電法を紹介したい。
Steam basket
Mesh Crown
Excess steam and water release
Running Hat Steamer - Mesh crown with attached basket steamer allows you to steam healthy, nutritious dishes while you get in your exercise. After your run, just plate your delicious goodies without ever turning on your stove. Even a brisk walk to the station provides enough steaming power to heat up a pork bun! Mmmm mm! ランニング蒸し帽:頭に 蒸し器を設置すれば、運動しながらもヘルシー で栄養満点な料理を作れる。走った後は、コンロ要らずのご馳走を食べ ればいい。駅までさっそうと歩くだけで、肉まんがホカホカに蒸しあが る。ハフハフ！
The Solar Sandwich Man - These overlooked, but hearty workers can provide a needed service. Above the advertising board is a solar panel which generates power used to charge cell phones for a small fee. Advertisers get more eyeballs, sandwich man keeps the charging fees, panicky smart phone addicts get some more time to connect. Win/Win/Win. ソーラーサンドイッチマン：今まで 着目され なかった が、旺 盛 に働く彼ら だ からこその サービス がある。まず、看 板 の上にソーラーパ ネルを取り 付けて発 電、携 帯の充 電を 安く請け負う。 すると、片手 間に小 銭 が 稼げ て、 広 告 効 果 も 高 まり、電 池 切 れ 間 近 の人も 助 かるという寸 法。正 に一 石 三鳥である。
Big fan of Karma - Overpaid execs from everybody’s favorite utility must now earn their salaries and bonuses. They will be required to perform beneficial services during the summer months in order to get paid. Each wave of the fan equals one yen, until their combined salary and bonus total is reached. 可処分所得の多い、例の公共事業のおエライさんたちは、今こそ自分自身 の力で稼ぐ時だ。この夏は数ヶ月間、有益な公共事業をしていただこう。 うちわを 1 回あおいで 1 円、ノルマは月給＋ボーナスになる額まで。
ザ・サーファーズ・ジャーナルのバックナンバーを今すぐGETしよう ！
残部 僅少
創刊号 1.1
○ 名匠：タイラー・ハジキアン ○ 南アフリカのゴッドファーザー ○ ニュージャージー・サーフの手引き 他
第2号 1.2
第4号 1.4
○“天才” ジム・フィリップスの素顔 ○ ジュリアン・ウィルソンとその家族 ○ 60年代サーフ・ファンのアナログ・ストーリー 他
○ ピーター・トロイの失われた旅行記 ○ 思考を変えろ—リー・クロウの半生 ○ ポール・ウィツィグの3作品 他
各巻 ¥1,995（ 税込） 購入は
6
第3号 1.3
○ 変革の申し子トニー・アルバ ○ マーティン・ポッターの半生とその時代 ○ スティーブ・リスのフィッシュ物語 他
www.surfersjournal.jp のバックナンバーから
SUMMER
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SUMMER
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7
RACES & EVENTS
EVENT SPOTLIGHTS
01 2 2 R ME E 44 M SU SSU I
July 27-29
Fuji Rock Festival ‘12 This three-day music festival in Niigata’s lush mountains is simply Asia’s top music festival. Dedicated Fujirockers make the pilgrimage each year rain or shine so see top international and homegrown artists. Location: Naeba, Niigata Details: www.fujirockfestival.com
July 28
Aug. 11
Dating back to the Edo Period, this is Tokyo’s largest (in number) hanabi with more than 20,000 fireworks. Nearly 100,000 people come to enjoy the grand display. Location: Along the Sumida River near Asakusa Station
The Tokyo Bay Fireworks feature about 12,000 fireworks launched from barges in the bay. Harumi Park, a 15-minute walk from Toyosu Station, is a great place to watch as well as the Odaiba area. Note the Rainbow Bridge is closed to pedestrians during the festivities. Location: Toyosu Station and Odaiba
Sumida River Fireworks
Tokyo Bay Fireworks
Aug. 17-19
Earth Celebration Each summer, the sleepy island of Sado-ga-shima, off the coast of Niigata, awakens to the sounds of the Earth Celebration. Kodo, Sado Island’s internationally acclaimed percussion group, hosts this world music festival. Location: Sado Island, Niigata Details: www.kodo.or.jp
RACE REPORT 26th Annual Mt. Tanzawa Bokka Ekiden Japan is famous for endurance runners and relay races. However, the people of Hadano City in Kanagawa Prefecture host one of the most interesting relay races around — the annual Mt. Tanzawa Bokka Ekiden. This year’s race attracted 120 four-person teams to the beautiful Hadano area to race to the top of Mt. Tanzawa. Racing up mountain trails to the summit may sound gruelling enough, but try it after someone stuffed your backpack full of rocks! Photographs by Luke McDonald
Yes, in this race each team member must carry a stone-filled rucksack to check points where they pass the heavy cargo onto the next person. Male and female teams are divided according to the weight they carry, with 10-kg., 20-kg. and 40-kg. divisions. Although carrying rocks up a mountain may seem like a masochistic exercise (albeit good exercise), the rocks are put to good use by about 600 volunteers who use them to repair mountain trails so hikers can enjoy them all summer.
OUTDOOR JAPAN ONLINE’S
RACE & EVENTS CALENDAR 8
Summer is loaded with countless music festivals, exciting fireworks, festive beer gardens (see page 60) and outdoor races and events. Don’t miss out on all the fun! Visit our Race & Event Calendar for more information: Web: www.outdoorjapan.com/race
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9
夜神楽と 九 州の太 陽 神
Night Dancing and of a Kyushu
10
By Lee Dobson
SUMMER
2 0 1 2
Stories Sun Goddess According to myth, Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess, and her brother, Tsukiyomi, the Moon God, once soared across the sky together. After her brother killed another goddess in a fit of rage, Amaterasu, so disgusted by the act, chose never to be seen again with her sibling. Thus day and night were born. Perhaps this myth was born during an eclipse much like the one we saw on May 21. Perhaps the sun goddess and her brother put aside their differences once every so often. Amaterasu was also sister to Susanowa, the god of storms, who was prone to fits of violence and anger. Amaterasu, on the other hand, was renowned for her compassion and wisdom. She was an accomplished weaver, and it is from her that all of Japan’s fine textiles were born. Susanowa, jealous of his sister, flew into a rage. He slew a young horse that was sacred to her, and hurled the carcass into her weaving room, destroying looms and killing one of Amaterasu’s attendants. Furious by this thoughtless act, Amaterasu hid in a cave, refusing to come out. The earth plunged into darkness, crops failed, and things generally fell apart.
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太陽神アマテラスと、その弟月の神ツクヨミは かつて一緒に空に昇っていた。ところが弟の月 読がかっとなって別の女神を殺してしまったこと に心底腹を立てたアマテラスは二度とその弟の 顔を見ないことを心に決め、ここから昼と夜が出 来た言う神話がある。 もしかしたらこんな神話が生まれたのは、先日 5月21日の日食のような日だったのかも。太陽神 と弟がこうしてたまにお互いの違いを横に置い て出会う日。アマテラスはスサノオの妹でもある。 スサノオは嵐の神で時に激しい怒りを表すことで 知られる。 一方アマテラスは慈悲と知恵の女神。素晴らし い織物を作ることでも知られ、日本の織物は全 てアマテラスから始まったとも言われている。そ んな妹をねたんだスサノオが癇癪をおこし、彼女 が大切にしていた馬を殺しその屍を織物部屋に 投げ入れ、織り機を破壊しお供を一人殺したの だった。 この非常識な行動に激高したアマテラスは以 来洞窟に隠れて二度と出てこなくなってしまった。 その日から地球には闇が押し寄せた。作物は枯 れ、全てがだんだんとおかしくなって行った。
11
O
ここで神々は太陽神を どうやって洞窟から出すか 会議を開いたと言われている。
ur heroine’s hiding place was found in southern Japan near Takachiho Town in Miyazaki Prefecture. The landscape in this part of Kyushu features lush greens, low peaked mountains and a stunning gorge filled with waterfalls and some of the country’s most scenic shrines. The town is steeped in history. Takachiho Shrine was built more than 1,200 years ago. The giant surrounding cedars dwarf the pavilion, and it almost disappears in the shadows of the tall trees. It is also a place of religious importance, with a number of stories related in one of Japan’s oldest books, “Nihongi” (Nihon-Shoki) set here. Takachiho is the birthplace of one of Japan’s intangible cultural assets, yokagura or the “night dance.” These ancient Shinto dances are held nightly from the end of November through the beginning of February. Thirty-three dances are performed each evening in selected local homes. Twenty-four yokagura preservation groups include about 480 dancers in total, called hoshadan, all members of the local community. Each of the 33 dances depicts a myth or legend, and four (the most popular) are played nightly at a playhouse in Takachiho Shrine. One dance tells the story of the god, Tajikarao, listening outside the cave believing Amaterasu to be hiding inside. A second dance depicts the goddess Uzume, the goddess of mirth, performing a rather bawdy piece to lure the sun goddess out of the cave. Evidently it had the gods laughing so loudly, Amaterasu could not help but peek out at the merriment. A third dance describes Tajikarao, renowned for his strength, seizing the goddess by the hand and pulling her out, before hurling the stone blocking the door all the way to Nagano. An interesting aside: the stone was called togakushi, which literally means concealed or hidden door. The town of Togakushi lies just outside Nagano City where the stone is rumored to have landed. The final dance, and possibly the funniest, tells the story of Izanagi and Izanami, the father and mother, not only of Amaterasu, but also of Japan. It depicts the creation of Japan, which seems to have occurred after or during a bout of drinking and lovemaking. Around 10 kilometers outside of town, we find Amano-Iwato Shrine. Here we can view the cave in which Amaterasu remained hidden. Priests lead viewing parties at regular intervals from the western pavilion. After a quick blessing, we are taken on a short walk to view the cave on the other side of the small river. No photos allowed here. From the western pavilion, we head east along a small path that follows the river. This leads to Amano-Yasugawara, a shrine housed in a small cavern. The gods gathered here to consult on how to get the sun goddess to emerge from her cave.
The gods gathered here to consult on how to get the sun goddess to emerge from her cave.
A girl peeks into a cave in Mie Prefecure, where a similar story of Amaterasu exists.
12
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Night Dancing and Stories of a Kyushu Sun Goddess
さ
て、この神話のヒロインが隠れている場所は、日 本の南、宮崎県高千穂町の近くだ。九州のこの
辺りは緑が 多く、低い山々が 連なり、滝を擁する息を
のむような渓谷や日本有数の美しい寺院などで知られ る。街に歴史が深くしみこんでいる、 そんな場所である。 高千穂神社が建てられたのは今から1200年も前のこ とで、巨大な杉に囲まれたこの神社はほとんどその陰 に隠されていると言っても良いだろう。 ここは宗教的にも重要な拠点で、日本最古の文献で ある日本書紀にも度々登場する。日本の重要無形文 化財として知られる夜神楽が生まれたのはここ高千穂 だ。この伝統的な神道の舞いは夜神楽三十三番と呼 ばれ11月の終わりから2月の初めまで夜ごと地元の選 ばれた民家で行われる。 二 十 四ある夜 神 楽 保 存 会には およそ480人 の「 ほ しゃどん」と呼ばれる舞人がおり、33の神楽それぞれ が神話や伝説を表現し、高千穂神社ではこの33番の 中でも代表的な4つの神楽を毎晩演じている。 一つ目はアマテラスが岩戸の中にいることを信じて 外から耳をそばだてるタジカラオの舞、二つ目の陽気 な女神ウズメの舞は、岩戸からアマテラスを呼びだす ための少しおどけた舞で、これには他の神々も笑いを こらえることが出来ず、その騒ぎにアマテラスも様子を うかがいに顔を出してしまうほどだ。三つ目は力強さ で知られるタジカラオの舞で岩戸を閉ざしていた岩を 遥か長野まで投げ飛ばし、アマテラスの手を引いて引 きずり出した神話。この話にでてくる岩は「戸隠し」と 呼ばれるのだが、長野市のすぐそばにある「戸隠」とい う街に落ちたと言われている。最後の一番面白い舞は アマテラスの父と母であるだけではなく日本の父と母と されるイザナギとイザナミの神話を表現する。日本創造 の神話を表しているのだが、日本はどうやら酒を飲み、 熱い抱擁を交わした後に出来たようである。 高千穂から10キロほどの場所に、天岩戸神社があ る。アマテラスが隠れていたといわれる洞窟がある場 所だ。西本宮から僧侶が定期的に見学につれていって くれる。短い祈祷の後、小さな川の向こう側にある洞 窟へと少し歩く。写真撮影は禁止だ。 西本宮から東へと川と並走する小道を歩くと小さな 洞窟の中にある天安河原へたどり着く。ここで神々は 太陽神をどうやって洞窟から出すか会議を開いたと言 われている場所だ。 ここには幸運を祈る人が積み上げた石の山があり、 一つ崩したら二つ作らなければならないそうだ。すばら しい景色であり、パワースポットとしても知られている。 岩戸へは高千穂バス亭から定期的にバスがでてい る。宮 崎 交 通バスで20分、岩 戸で下 車し神 社までは 徒歩15分。 パワースポットといえばマイナスイオン。ここには滝を 擁する渓谷がある。高千穂神社にほど近い高千穂峡 は五ヶ瀬川を囲むような黒い溶岩の壁に縁どられてい る。夏になれば周辺の緑がこの黒い岩肌を埋め、ゆっ くり流れるアクアブルーの川の水はまるで絵のようだ。 川ではボートを漕いでみるのも良いかもしれない。
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It was Uzume, the goddess of mirth, who finally coaxed her out. As depicted in the dance, Uzume danced a jig that left little to the imagination. This had the gods in hysterics, and Amaterasu succumbed to her curiosity and peaked outside of the cave. Unbeknownst to her, Uzume had hung a mirror outside the cave, and the unsuspecting sun goddess thought she was eyeballing her replacement. She stepped out further to confirm her suspicions, when Tajikarao seized her hand and pulled her out of the cave completely. He then hurled the stone as far away as Nagano (1,200 kilometers east), so Amaterasu could not hide herself again. The story carries significant importance in Japan, as the sun goddess is considered a direct ancestor of the emperor’s family. It also serves as a reminder not to take anything for granted, because you just never know when the siblings may quarrel again. To make the most of the town and enjoy it fully, it is best to plan for at least an overnight trip. The night dance at the Takachiho Shrine is a must and, during the summer (July/August), the gorge is lit up. At the very least, it is a great place to relax and walk where the gods have walked. ✤
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高千穂は一年を通して観光できるが、 夏、生き生きとした緑と爽やかな自 然に 囲まれた神社は特に素晴らしい。
Here, people seeking good fortune have built small piles of stones. Rumor has it, if you knock down one pile, you need to replace it with two. It is a very scenic place and considered to be a place of great power. Buses run regularly from Takachiho bus terminal to Iwato. Take the Miyako bus for 20 minutes, get off at Iwato, and from there it is a 15-minute walk to the shrine. No power spot is complete without negative ions to soak up, and the waterfalls in the gorge do their part. Takachiho-kyo (Gorge), near Takachiho Shrine, is lined with black lava walls that wrap themselves around the Gokase River. In summer the surrounding green flora offsets the black walls, and the almost aqua blue waters of the slow-moving river are picturesque. Here you can join the hordes and dip an oar in the water. While Takachiho can be visited all year around, it especially makes a refreshing retreat in summer amidst the lush green and refreshing coolness of the naturefilled shrines. While you are there, take the time to track down some Chicken Nan-Ban, a local fried chicken dish with a sweet-and-sour-like sauce. It is delicious. So what of our heroine? Fortunately for us, the sun shines (somewhere) daily, so as you can guess, the goddess was finally lured out of the cave.
While Takachiho can be visited all year around, it especially makes a refreshing retreat in summer amidst the lush green and refreshing coolness of the naturefilled shrines.
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Night Dancing and Stories of a Kyushu Sun Goddess
高千穂は一年を通して観光できるが、夏、生き生き とした緑と爽やかな自然に囲まれた神社は特に素晴ら しい。 滞在中に一度は試してほしいのがチキン南蛮だ。地 鶏をから揚げにし、タルタルソースをかけたものなのだ が、最高に美味い。 さて、我々のヒロインはどうなったのか？ 幸いなこと に、ここでは毎日どこかで太陽が降り注いでおり、つま り、あの太陽の女神は洞窟から出てきてくれたと言う わけだ。
彼女を洞窟から出したのはあのウズメだった。あの 舞に表現されているように、ウズメは見るからにおかし な舞を踊った。アマテラスは好奇心に負けて洞窟から 顔を出してしまった。ウズメはアマテラスに気づかれな いように洞窟の外に鏡をかけておき、何も知らないアマ テラスは鏡に映った自分を自分の代わりの女神だと思 い、よく見ようともう一歩外にでたところをタヂカラオが 引っ張り出し、ふさいでいた岩を遠く1200キロ離れた 長野へ放り投げ、二度とアマテラスがここに隠れられな いようにしたと言うわけだ。 天皇家の直属の先祖がこのアマテラスだと考えられ ている日本において、この神話はとても大切にされて おり、同時に、またいつこの姉と弟が喧嘩を始めるやも わからないこの世の中、何でも当たり前だと思ってい てはいけないという教訓にもなっている。 この街を最 大 限に楽しむには、最 低でも一 泊はし てほしい。高千穂神社の夜神楽ははずせないし、7月 8月には渓 谷が 見どころとなる。何はともあれ、ここ、 神々が歩いた場所を散歩するのは最高の気分にちが いない。✤
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Night Dancing and Stories of a Kyushu Sun Goddess ESSENTIAL INFO GETTING THERE / アクセス:
While Takachiho is in Miyazaki Prefecture, the quickest access is from Kumamoto (Kumamoto City, Kumamoto Prefecture). The Shinkansen now runs regularly from Osaka (¥18,020). Buses run from Kumamoto Station. Take the bus bound for Nobeoka and get off around three hours later in Takachiho. It costs about ¥2,300 one way, and you pay when you exit the bus. You can save a few hundred yen by catching the bus from Kumamoto central bus terminal and buying a return ticket (¥4,000) from one of the dispensers there. 高千穂は宮崎県だが、熊本市からの方がアクセスは良い。大阪 から18,020円で定期的に運航している。熊本駅からはバスが出 ており、鍋岡行きに乗り、3時間ほどで高千穂に到着する。片道 2300円程。支払は下車時に。数百円お得に行くなら熊本中央バ スターミナルで往復チケットを4,000円で購入するのがおすすめ。
YOKAGURA / 夜神楽:
Yokagura dances are performed nightly from 8-9 p.m. at Takachiho Shrine. Tickets can be purchased at the door for ¥500. Tel: (0982) 72-2413. 高千穂神社で毎日夜8時から9時まで。チケットは入口で500円。
TEL: (0982) 72-2413
PLACES TO STAY / 宿泊:
Kaminoya is a Ryokan in the center of town. It has good reviews and also serves local beef at dinner, which is very tasty. 中心部に位置するかみの家旅館はおすすめ。利用者の評価も 高く、夕飯の地元産ビーフは最高。
USEFUL INFO / お役立ち情報:
<Accommodation/宿泊> http://kaminoya.jp/english/ <日本語> http://takachiho-kanko.info <English> http://hometown.infocreate.co.jp/en/kyushu/ takachiho/takach-e.html
ACTIVITIES / アクティビティ :
Aside from rowing in the gorge, Takachiho offers Japan ’ s southern-most ski grounds. Skiing is offered all year around, thanks to special“plasti snow.”Gokase Highland Ski Grounds, call: (0982) 83-2141. Camping is available from April to November: Call (0982) 731212 for details. Amaiwado Spa offers a nice place to take a soak at a reasonable price of ¥400. It is a 15-minute bus ride and a 10-15 minute walk. Take the Miyako bus for Amaiwado and get off at Amaiwado Onsen. Call (0982) 74-8288. Closed every third Thursday of the month, or the following day should a national holiday fall on the Thursday. 渓谷でのボートの他、高千穂には日本最南端のスキー場もある。 人工雪のおかげで一年中滑ることが出来る。五ヶ瀬ハイランドス キー場（ : 0982）83-2141 キャンプは4月から11月まで可能。詳細は（0982）73-1212まで。 天岩戸温泉は手頃な料金（400円）で入れておすすめ。バスで 15分、徒歩10-15分ほど。宮崎交通バスで天岩戸行きに乗り、 天岩戸温泉で下車。毎週第三木曜日定休、祝祭日と重なった 場合は翌日。
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を探検 界 世 の グ ン ジオキャッシ
G N I H C A C O E G F O T H D E E L R W O R O L EXP By Rob M. Dupuis
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“Geez! Why can't we find this thing? It should be here.” “I know!” “What’s your radar reading?” “Says we're standing within a meter of it.” “Mine too. How about Google Maps?” “Says we're right on top of it. Maybe it's been muggled !”
「もう！ なんで見つからないんだろ？ ここで合ってるはずなのに！」 「だよね！」 「1ｍ圏内にあるってなってる」 「俺のもそうだよ。グーグルマップはどう？」 「そっちでもぴったりここになってるんだよ。 もしかしてアレ、マグられちゃったんじゃないの？」
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EXPLORE THE WO RLD OF GEOCACHI NG
“I
t” is the size of a PET bottle cap. Actually, in many cases, it is a PET bottle cap. It may have been painted a rusty brown color, the exact shade of the lamppost to which it’s stuck. Or perhaps it is painstakingly camouflaged and hidden under the big rock in the park by your house. You’ve probably strolled past it countless times; may have even brushed up against one, and you never even knew it was there. This little unseen container belongs to a clandestine world cleverly veiled to muggles, not unlike the wizarding world of the Harry Potter books—without the magic, but with all the excitement and adventure. Inside this tiny container awaits nothing more than a log book, a foot-long strip of paper wound tightly around a small chunk of toothpick and sealed in a small plastic pouch. The log does not contain anything top secret. Nor does it bestow upon you any wizardly ways. It is simply there to be signed. But, wow! The feeling you get when you do sign it? The rush that pours over you during that split second when you realize you’ve found it is unbelievable. Yet
探
to understand just what it is I’m talking about, you have to find one on your own. So, quick, strap on some shoes (preferably of the hiking variety, unless you’re smack dab in the city, and even then it’s still not a bad idea), grab your cell phone, and join me as we pull aside the curtain and enter the wonderful world of geocaching.
Geocaching is the unusual, yet steadily growing pastime of hunting for, locating and logging the discovery of tiny containers,
Mike Teague and Jeremy Irish.) One day in May of 2000, Ulmer, a GPS enthusiast in Beavercreek, Oregon, had a fun idea. He decided to take a bucket containing a few simple items into the woods of Oregon and hide it. He then marked the coordinates of the bucket’s location and posted it to an online GPS users’ group, challenging anyone with a GPS device to find it. (This was back in the day when cell phones were simply used to call people.) He had just one rule, which is still in effect to this day: "Take some stuff, leave some stuff." Later that month, Teague, another GPS enthusiast and the first finder of Ulmer’s bucket, set up a mailing list for other finders of the buckets to share their experiences and the thrill of their discovery. Not three months after that, Irish, a web developer in Seattle, stepped onto the scene.
called “geocaches,” hidden all over the world by adventure-seeking geocachers. Geocaching found its humble roots 12 years ago, thanks to the ingenuity and tech savvy of three guys in the American Northwest. (Thank you, Dave Ulmer,
After discovering Teague’s website, he bought his own GPS device and soon caught the geocaching bug. In September 2000, with the help of Teague, he created Geocaching.com where, today, almost five million geocachers log their finds every day.
“Muggled? Nah, I doubt it. Veggiesalads’ log says he found it just a few days ago.” “Did you read the hint?” “There wasn’t one.” “Hmm. I’ll check the logs again. Maybe someone added a hint there.” “Good idea. I’ll take another look at the photo gallery.”
し求める“アレ”は、ペットボトルの蓋サイズの小
「ヒントは見た？」
さなもの。というより、むしろペットボトルの蓋そ
「ヒントは無かったと思うよ」
のものの場合も多い。 “アレ”は今、街灯の光が当らな い街の隅っこでさび、茶色に変色しているかもしれない。 近くの公園にある岩の下に巧妙にカモフラージュされて
アイリッシュは、ティーグのサイトを見つけてすぐ
「んー。もう一回ログ見てみるか。誰かがヒントを付
キャッシングにハマってしまった。2000年の9月、ティー
け加えてるかも」 「そうだね。もう一回フォトギャラリー見てみよう」
るかもしれない。 秘密の世界のものである小さな宝物は、 “マグル”
グと共に今では一日およそ５００万人がアクセスする Geocaching.comを立ち上げた。
いるのかもしれない。今までに何度も真横を通り過ぎて、 “アレ”の存在を知らぬまま、無意識に触れた事さえあ
にＧＰＳレシーバーを購入すると、あっという間にジオ
アドベンチャー好きの“ジオキャッシャー”たちが、世 界中に隠された“ジオキャッシュ”と呼ばれる宝箱に見 立てた小さな容器を探し出す。このユニークな現代版
（『ハリーポッター』に出てくる、いわゆる普通の人間を
宝探しゲーム、ジオキャッシングの発祥は12年前。アメ
指す言葉）たちにとっては謎めいた未知の物体だ。映
リカ北西部に住む3人の男たちの、豊富な科学技術の
「おっ、この写真見て。 “キャッシュ近く”ってタイトル がついてる」 「オッケー、じゃあこの写真の撮影場所に立ってみ たら？」
画みたいに魔法はかかっていないけど、負けないくらい
知識と創造力から誕生した。 （デーブ・ウルマー、マイク・
「それ良いかも」
のワクワクと冒険溢れている。
ティーグ、ジェレミー・アイリッシュに感謝！）
「なんか見える？」
とはいえ、中にはあるのは小さなプラスチックの袋の
2000年5月のとある日、オレゴン州のビーバークリーク
中に、うまいことぎゅっと折りたたまれたログブックと呼
に住むＧＰＳマニアのウルマーに、ふと面白いアイデアが
僕がジオキャッシングを知ったのは今年の1月のこと
ばれる紙だけ。このログブックにはなんの極秘情報も書
舞い降りた。ウルマーは早速いくつかアイテムを入れた
だった。僕の友達で同僚のタッド・ベイル（ジオキャッシ
かれていないし、魔法使いのまじないもかかっていない。
バケツを用意して、オレゴンの森の中に隠した。それか
ングのハンドルネームはTadVa）が、ネットサーフィン中
ただ名前を書く為だけのものだ。
らオンラインＧＰＳユーザーグループのページに隠し場所
に偶然サイトを見つけたのだ。本当のところを言えば僕
でも、実際そこに自分の名前を書き込む時の気持ち
の座標を投稿し、ＧＰＳを使った宝探しの挑戦状を送っ
は、最初疑ってかかっていた。僕たちは名古屋に住んで
は、最高の気分だ。本当に見つけたんだという達成感
たのだ（まだ携帯電話が電話としてしか使われていな
いるし、都会で宝探しなんてどうもしっくりこなかったのだ。
に興奮の波が押し寄せる。こんなに色々言ったところで、
かった頃の話）。ウルマーは唯一のルールとして「宝物
自分で体験しなければ伝わらないかもしれない。
を取ったら、代わりになにか入れていくこと」をあげた。
靴紐をしめて携帯電話を持ったら、あっという間に素 晴らしきジオキャッシングのはじまりはじまり。ちなみに
12年経った今でもこのルールは変わらない。 5月末になって、同じくＧＰＳ大好き人間のティーグが、
けれど、ふたりの息子カイ（9歳）とレイン（7歳）と一 緒にやってみたら面白いかも、と思いなおした。天気の 良い週末の午後に、家の中でWiiで遊ぶよりずっと楽し いはずだと思ったのだ。
靴は、ハイキングシューズがいいかもしれない。たとえ
ウルマーの隠したバケツの第一発見者となった。ティー
一週間後、早速ブラックベリーにCacheSenseをダ
都会の真ん中に住んでいたとしても、念のため！
グは、他にこのバケツを見つけた人たちと宝物を発見し
ウンロードしてみた（この時はどんなものか分からな
た時の体験と感動を共有するために、メーリングリスト
かったので、まずは30日間無料体験版に登録した）。
「マグられた？ 違うと思うな。“野菜サラダ”さんの
を作った。それから数カ月もしない内に、シアトルのウェ
Geocaching.comで無料のメンバー登録をしてみると、
ログに、ほんの何日か前に見つけたって書いてあった
ブデザイナーのアイリッシュがこの遊びを世界中に広め
自宅のアパートから1キロも離れていない公園にキャッ
から」
ることになる。
シュが隠されているという情報をゲットした。
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“Hey, take a look at this shot. It’s called ‘Near the Cache’.” “Okay… what if we stand in the spot the photo was taken.” “That might work.” “See anything?” My first peak behind the geocaching curtain came this past January, when friend, colleague and fellow resident of Nagoya, Tadd Vail (Geocaching Handle: TadVa), told me about this game he’d stumbled upon while surfing the net. At first I was skeptical. Treasure hunting in the city? Really? Then I thought about my two sons, Kai (9) and Rein (7), and decided it was worth a try. Heck, at the very least it would get us outside on a sunny Saturday or Sunday afternoon instead of stuck inside playing Wii. A week later, I downloaded CacheSense onto my BlackBerry (the 30-day trial, of course, because at the time I had no idea how much fun it would be), set up my free membership at Geocaching.com and soon found there was a cache in a park less than a kilometer from my apartment. It was that easy. The next weekend, my friend Atsushi and his family were visiting, so I invited them along on the hunt for our first geocache. Excitement was thick in the air. We were about to take our first step into a magnificent new world. About an hour later, our hands and knees soiled and our spirits dampened, we returned home with nothing to show for but a few stiff backs, a sliver and a growing doubt that geocaches really exist at all. Believe it or not, when you have absolutely no idea what it is you’re looking for, it’s extremely difficult to find. However, the seed had been planted, and we were determined to find at least one of these little buggers. Besides, I still had three weeks on my trial period. So, the following Saturday, a “NEAREST CACHES” search with CacheSense (now one of my all-time favorite time killers) revealed 12 geocaches hiding around Nagoya Castle. I told my boys to strap on their bicycle helmets. We were goin’ huntin’!
The first geocache we found was in the Flower Plaza in the park adjacent to Nagoya Castle. (Geocaches are almost always hidden somewhere with a great view or some trivia-worthy history.) The description on Geocaching.com mentioned a “base to enjoy the flowers” and, after giddily watching the distance reading fall to a mere three meters on the app’s radar, we found ourselves standing in front of a long wooden bench. Upon the bench sat two elderly muggles who soon took notice and asked what we were up to. Kai kindly told them we were treasure hunting, to which they shrugged and immediately went back to ignoring us. (It’s funny, really. No matter how silly I’ve felt in public places reaching under park benches or peering into flower beds, this seems to be the common reaction by muggles in Nagoya: mild interest followed by instant indifference.) Moments later, my fingers swept across something under the bench that budged ever so slightly. Could this be it? “Kai! Rein!” I called in my loudest whisper. My heart began to race. I reached under the bench again and gripped the tiny plastic bottle cap. With a soft magnetic tug, I pulled the cache free of the bench, and we were gazing in wonder at our first find. Geocaches really do exist, and this little one had been hiding for nearly two years without ever being found by accident (which does happen on very rare occasions). I looked at my boys and saw my ear-to-ear smile reflecting on both of their faces. It may sound silly but, at that moment, I think we were all hooked. I immediately wanted to find another, and another, and 114 finds later I still feel that way. The
“Wait a second! Squat down. Take a look at the bolts on that bench.” “One, two…there’re five on this side. How many on that side?” “Four over here.” “We found it! Woo hoo! Let’s pop this baby open! TFTC!” “Sweet.”
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thrill never seems to die; it only grows stronger (as is evident at www.cachestats. com where the leading geocacher worldwide is listed as having found more than 65,000 caches). My boys and I have even started planning to hide our own geocaches, complete with a Geocoin (see photo) for each son. Now you’ve had a peek behind the Geocaching curtain. The next time you’re visiting Nagoya, head over to Shonai Ryoukuchi Park. Have a barbecue, ride the paddle boats, enjoy the view. Then, when no one’s looking, slip behind the curtain and enter the wonderful world of geocaching. If you find a DupuisBoys cache with a Canadian Geocoin in it, do Kai or Rein a favor and move it closer to its destination: Grandma’s house in Canada. ✤
EXPLORE THE WO RLD OF GEOCACHI NG 次の週末、友達のあつしファミリーが遊びに来たので、 みんなで一緒に初挑戦してみることにした。壮大な冒険 のはじまりのように、僕らは大盛り上がりで家を出た。 1時間後。土だらけの手と膝に折れた心で帰宅した僕
「ちょっと待って、しゃがんでみて！あのベンチのボルト のとこ見てよ」 「１、２……こっちは５個あるよ。そっちは？」 「４個しかない！」
らが持ち帰ったのは、腰のこりとジオキャッシングへの疑
「 あった ー！ もう 開 け ちゃっ てい い!? TFTC！
惑だけ。探しものが一体どんなものかを知らないまま見
(Thanks For The Cache＝「キャッシュを置いてくれて
つけ出すことがこんなに難しいものだとは。諦めそうに
ありがとう」という意味の、キャッシュオーナーに対する
なったけれど、せめて１個くらいは見つけてみたかった。
お礼の言葉)
一度乗りかかった船から降りるわけにはいかない。それ
「やったな！」
に、無料体験期間がまだ3週間も残っている。 次の土曜日、Cachesense（僕の最近一番しあわせ
僕ら親子が最初に見つけたキャッシュは、名古屋城
な時間つぶし）でサーチしてみると、名古屋城周辺だけ
に隣接した名城公園フラワープラザに隠されていた（ジ
で12個のジオキャッシュが隠されているという。すぐに息
オキャッシュは、眺めの良い場所や歴史トリビアのあるよ
子たちに自転車のヘルメットを付けるように指示を出し
うな場所に隠されていることが多い）。サイトの「花を 楽しむ拠点」という情報を頼りに、目を皿のようにして探
た。さあ、宝探しに出発するぞ！
し続けて、ＧＰＳの示した場所から３ｍ離れた木のベンチ の前まで僕らは辿り着いた。 ベンチにはふたりのお年寄り“マグル”が座っていた のだが、すぐに僕らのおかしな様子に気が付いて、何を しているのかと尋ねてきた。「宝探しをしているんです」 とカイが丁寧に伝えると、ふたりは肩をすくめてもう話し かけてこなくなった。面白いもので、ベンチの下を必死 に探したり花畑を凝視したり、どんなに変な行動をとっ ていても“軽い好奇心に続く無関心”これが大抵の名古 屋マグルの反応だ。 ベンチの下に手を滑らせると僕の手が僅かになにか に触れた。もしかしてこれは！「カイ、レイン！」一番大 きな囁き声でふたりを呼びながら、心臓がばくばく脈打 ち始めた。もう一度ベンチの下に手を伸ばして、小さな ペットボトルのキャップを引っ張ってみた。弱い磁石が 取りつけられたキャップは簡単に外れて、ようやく見つけ たこの初お宝を３人でじっくり眺めた。 ジオキャッシュは確かに存在したのだ。この小さな宝 物は、誰かに偶然見つけられることもなく２年間もここで 眠っていたのだ（偶然発見されることもごくたまにあるそ うだ）。思わず息子たちの顔を覗きこむと、ふたりの輝く 瞳に自分の満面の笑みが映っていた。 馬鹿みたいに聞こえるかもしれないが、僕らは今完全 にハマっている。ひとつ見つけるとまたすぐに他の宝物 を探したくなってしまう。114個見つけた今も、そのわく わくは変わらないどころかどんどん強くなっていく （その 証拠に、www.cachestats.comによると、世界中のジオ キャッシャーが見つけたキャッシュは65,000個以上だそ う）。息子たちと、僕らもジオキャッシュを隠してみようか と考え中だ。ひとり1個ずつジオコインも用意した。 さあ、これであなたもジオキャッシングの世界に足を 踏み入れたことになる。今度名古屋に来ることがあった ら、庄内緑地公園を訪れてみてほしい。バーベキューを して、足こぎボートに乗って、景色を楽しんで、それから 誰も観ていない時、こっそり素晴らしきジオキャッシング の世界を覗いてみたらどうだろう。 “DupuisBoys”のキャッシュを見つけて、その中にカ ナダのジオコインが入っていたら、どうかカイとレインの 為にご協力願いたい。ジオコインの目的地、カナダにあ る息子たちのおばあちゃんの家に、少しでも近いところま で運んではくれないだろうか。✤
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EXPLORE THE WO RLD OF GEOCACHI NG GEOCACHING ON THE CHEAP
お手軽になったジオキャッシング
GPS has become much more easily accessible to the masses thanks to today’s high tech smart phones. No longer do you need to fork out tens of thousands of yen for a GPS device. Simply push a few buttons on your GPSenabled cell, and within minutes you’ll have just about everything you need to get started. Android, Blackberry, and iPhone all support a growing number of geocaching apps, many of which offer free 30-day trials and multiple languages. Below are just a few examples.
GPSは、スマートフォンの進化のおかげで、ぐっと身近な存在になった。何万も出して手に入 れる必要はもうない時代だ。GPS付きの携帯電話さえあれば、ボタンをいくつか押すだけで、数 分後には準備万端なはず。アンドロイド、ブラックベリー、iPhoneはどれもジオキャッシング用ア プリに対応していて、30日間の無料体験や日本語版もある。以下で挙げるのはほんの数例だ が、ご参考に。
Android: As of this publication, Geocaching.com lists nine applications available to Android users. Groundspeak Inc., the company that owns and operates Geocaching.com, offers its own app for around ¥800 and has won the adoration of thousands of its Google Play users. Neongeo is also rated highly on Google Play and is “powered by Geocaching Live,” which means you can access Geocaching.com securely from out in the field, and it costs a mere ¥327. Blackberry: The official app for Blackberry users is Trimble’s Geocache Navigator. It’s a powerful and easy-to-use app, and runs around ¥1,600. For those with a smaller budget, such as yours truly, CacheSense is an easy-touse app with all the necessary features at only ¥800.
アンドロイド：Geocaching.comはアンドロイドユーザー向けに現時点で９つのアプリを用意し ている。Geocaching.com を運営しているグランドスピーク社の公式アプリは￥800で、何千人も のグーグルプレイユーザーたちに人気だ。 Neongeoもグーグルプレイで人気が高いアプリ。宝探し中にいつでも安全にGeocaching. comにアクセス出来るジオキャッシングライブ機能搭載ながら値段は￥327とお手頃だ。 ブラックベリー：ブラックベリーユーザーの為の公式アプリは、 トリンブル社のジオキャッシュ ナビゲーター。操作も簡単な実に良く出来たアプリで、￥1600で手に入る。予算的に厳しい 方には、￥800のキャッシュセンスがお勧め。同じく操作が簡単で、機能も十分。
iPhone：グラウンドスピーク社のアプリがiTunesからゲットできる。iPhoneユーザーに一番人 気のアプリで、僕の友達タッドも使っている。タッド曰く、 「ここ最近で使った最も有意義な10ド ル」だそう。
iPhone: The Geocaching app by Groundspeak Inc., available at iTunes, appears to be the hands-down app of choice for iPhone users, including my fellow geocacher, Tadd, who says, “It was the best 10 bucks I've spent in a long time.”
FROM THE TRAIL “What I like best about the hobby is that it takes me to places I'd probably never get to otherwise and, so far, they've all had either exciting terrain or interesting history and sometimes both. There's always the thrill of adventure. I set out with a sense of purpose, enjoy the anticipation of being on a treasure hunt and revel in the satisfaction of finding treasure. What's more is there is no limit to the treasures you can search for. The adventure always continues, and you get to see and experience new places all the time. Finally, it's the perfect activity I can share with my 3-year-old boy. It is father-son bonding in the great outdoors, right where I want to be, and for the most part, it's free.” – Tadd Vail, Geocacher
体験談から： 「この遊びの良い所は、このゲームをやっていなかったら絶対に行かないような場所に連れ て行ってくれること。今までキャッシュが隠されていた所も、面白い地形だったり歴史だったり、 両方だったり、必ず冒険のスリルがあるところだったよ。ある目的を持って出かけていって、宝 探しへのわくわくと、見つけた時の興奮を楽しむ。なにが見つかるかは分からないし、限界がな い。いつも新しいアドベンチャーが用意されていて、また違った場所に運んでくれる。それが醍 醐味だね。それから、3歳の息子と一緒にやるのが最高なんだ。太陽の下で過ごす父と息子 の大切な時間ってわけ。おまけに無料だしね」 －タッド・ベイル、ジオキャッシャー
GEOCACHING GLOSSARY
ジオキャッシング用語
Along with the thrill of the hunt and the pride of the find is a list of acronyms and lingo as long as my arm that you’ve probably never heard of. The full list can be found at Geocaching.com, but here are a few of the most common:
宝探しのスリルと、発見した時の得意気な気持ちは、やってみた人にしか分からない。そん なジオキャッシャーの間でしか通じない頭字語や専門用語がたくさんある。Geocaching.comで 説明されている用語の中から、ここでいくつか紹介しよう。
BYOP: Bring your own pen. Most caches you’ll encounter are so small, it’s impossible to include a pen to sign the logbook. So remember to bring your own. CITO: Cache In Trash Out. Since 2002, this program has encouraged geocachers to help in cleaning up parks and other cache-friendly places around the world. Go to www.geocaching.com/cito for more info. DNF: Did not find. This acronym is self-explanatory and is by far my least favorite. Geocoin: Roughly the size of a ¥10 coin, Geocoins are like little plastic hitchhikers that are moved from cache to cache on their way to their ultimate goal/destination. Muggle: Someone who does not hunt for geocaches. As Geocaching.com’s glossary states, “Geomuggles are mostly harmless.”
BYOP（Bring Your Own Pen） ：隠されたキャッシュは大抵すごく小さいサイズのものなので、 ペンが入っていることは少ない。ログブックにサインする為のペンを持参するのをお忘れなく。 CITO（Cache In Trash Out） ：直訳すると「キャッシュを置いて、ゴミを持ち去る」。ジオキャッ シングでは、キャッシュを置いた場所を来たときよりも美しくしていこう、というルールを掲げてい る。詳しくはwww.geocaching.com/citoを見てみよう。 DNF（Did not find） ：キャッシュが見つからなかった時に使う。僕が一番嫌いな用語だ。 Geocoin（ジオコイン） ：10円玉サイズくらいのコインで、プラスチックのヒッチハイカ―とで も言える。キャッシュからキャッシュへと移動されながら最終目的地を目指していく。 Muggle（マグル） ：ジオキャッシュを知らない人のこと。Geocaching.comの用語集で説明さ れているように、ジオマグルは大抵無害。 TFTC（Thanks for the cache） ：ジオキャッシュのエチケットとして、ログブックやオンライン のログに書かれることが多い。
TFTC: Thanks for the cache. This is geocaching etiquette and is usually written in the logbooks and the online logs.
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One Time plastic use... ...Life Time Ocean Pollution!
Join our "Rise Above Plastics" Campaign!
ザ・サーファーズ・ジャーナルをご購読頂くと売上の一部 がサーフライダーファウンデーションジャパンに 寄付されます。詳しくはこちら。 PC: http://fujisan.co.jp/pc/tsj-surfrider Mobil: http://223223.jp/m/tsj-surfrider
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25
Of Japan’s two great plains — Kanto and Kansai — the great western plain may not be as obvious a destination to get away from the city and enjoy a country walk. Yet, ringed by low hills and with some of the oldest trails in the country, you are spoiled for choice in Kansai.
関東、関西にある日本の二つの大平野のうち、 都会の喧騒を離れて田舎の散歩を楽しむという目的において、 大阪平野はさほど有名な場所ではないかもしれない。 国内有数の昔からあるトレイルや、なだらかな丘に囲まれたこのエリアは、 実は目的地を選ぶのに目移りしてしまうような場所なのだ。
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Footsteps into the Past — Historical Hikes in Kansai 過去へ向かう足跡 –– 関西歴史探訪 By Matt Malcomson
関
K
ansai walks range from easy to strenuous day hikes, and all are within an hour's train ride if you base yourself in one of Kansai’s great cities — Osaka, Nara or Kyoto, and just a bit farther from Kobe. The trails are varied, with gentle country walks on the Yamanobe-no-michi, reputedly Japan's oldest road, to a demanding hike to the sacred mountaintop temple complex on Mt. Kōya along the Choseki-do Trail. One thing each trail has in common is they are all steeped in history. The area south of Nara is known as the Yamato Plain and is home to several “firsts” in Japan. The first permanent capital, the first Buddhist temples, possibly the first Shinto shrine, as well as the first recorded road. The cities of Kyoto and Nara are rightfully known for being the center of Japanese tradition and culture, but the southern Yamato Plain is where it all started. The Yamato Clan gained enough power to unite a large part of Japan under its control. Early capitals were changed upon the death of an Emperor but, in the 6th century, Asuka became the first city to retain this status after the Emperor's death. During the Asuka Period, Buddhism was introduced to Japan, as was a centralized form of government by Prince Shotoku. The Yamanobe-no-michi (Yamanobe Road) is mentioned in the historical Kojiki and Nihonshoki texts, and it runs along the eastern edge of the Yamato Plain, from Nara to Sakurai, linking many temples, shrines and other sites associated with the early Yamato rulers.
西でのウォーキングは簡単なものから丸一日かかる ハイキングまで様々で、大阪や奈良、京都など、関
西の中心エリアを拠点にすればどのコースも電車で1時間 以内の距離にあり、神戸からはもう少し時間がかかる程度 だ。日本最古の道として知られる山の辺の道の穏やかな田 舎道コースや町石道に沿った高野山山頂にある寺院まで のかなりきついコースなど、 トレイルはバラエティに富む。 このエリアのトレイルは歴史を感じさせてくれる。奈良県 の南に広がる大和平野はいくつかの「日本初」で知られる。 日本で初めて都が置かれた場所。日本初の仏教の寺。確 か、日本初の神道の神社もここだったはずだし、記録に残 る最古の道もここにある。 京都・奈良は日本文化と伝統の中心地として知られてい るが、本来全てが始まったのは南大和平野だと言われてい る。大和藩は強大な力で日本領土の多くを治めていた。 当初、天皇の崩御のたびに都は移されていたが、6世紀 になり飛鳥は天皇の死後都としての位置づけを維持し続け た最初の都市となり、仏教はこの飛鳥時代に日本へと伝わ り、聖徳太子によって中央集権型の政府が作られた。 山の辺の道は古事記や日本書紀にも登場する。大和平 野のへりを走るこの道は、奈良から桜井まで寺院をはじめ、 大和の君主達にちなんだ様々な場所を結ぶ道となっていた。 ここには古墳と呼ばれる鍵穴型の墓がある。巨大な堀に 囲まれた初期の天皇の埋葬地で、堺市の大仙陵古墳は 世界最大の盛り土の墓である。 一番人気のコースは宗派の名前を冠した町、天理から 桜井へと南へ向かうコース。道案内もたくさんあり平たんな 道は歩きやすいが、それでも歩ききるには4～5時間かかる。 小さな村道やいちご畑を横切る道、ミカン果樹園や壁に囲 まれた村や古い寺院などバラエティ豊かなトレイルだ。 天理は19世紀にこの天理の地で生まれた宗派、天理教 の豊かさと影響が色濃い街で、天理教本部や巡礼者の宿
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There are several keyhole-shaped tombs (kofun, 古墳), huge earthworks surrounded by moats, burial
places of the early Emperors (the Daisen-ryo tomb in nearby Sakai City is the largest burial mound in the world). The section commonly walked today is from Tenri, home of the eponymous religious sect, south to Sakurai. Well sign-posted, the trail is mostly flat and easy, though the full walk still requires four to five hours. The trail itself is varied, with many small village roads, paths that traverse strawberry fields, orchards of mikan (tangerines), walled villages and some of the oldest shrines in Japan. In Tenri, the wealth and influence of Tenri-kyo, a religion that started here in the 19th century, is clearly evident, with the huge buildings of the church headquarters and pilgrims’ lodgings. Japan’s first Shinto shrine is found in Isonokami, which houses a seven-branched sword given to the Yamato leader by a Korean prince, and probably dates from the 2nd or 3rd century. At its southern end lies Omiwa Shrine which enshrines Mt. Miwa rising behind it. It is thought to be one of the oldest, if not the oldest, shrines in Japan. There are no worship halls at Omiwa Shrine or its neighbor Hibara Shrine, as buildings at shrines were only introduced after Buddhism came to Japan. The two giant burial mounds on the Yamanobeno-michi are the tomb of Emperor Sujin and Emperor Keiko, the 10th and 12th Emperors according to legend. They are 240 and 300 meters in length, surrounded by a moat and are now thickly wooded. The Yamanobe-no-michi is about an hour by train from either Kyoto or Osaka. It's best to bring some snacks, as there are not many places to buy food along the trail, except at a restaurant about halfway along where you can try the local Miwa noodles. Moving forward about a thousand years is the Yagyu-kaido, a trail that connects Nara City with the village of Yagyu. This village was the home of the Yagyu Clan and its warrior-general Yagyu Munetoshi. He was known for his prowess in the Shinkage-ryu school of martial arts. The trail was used for hundreds of years by monks, farmers and warriors making their way between Nara and Yagyu. Starting in central Nara City near Kasuga Shrine, the trail climbs through a thick forest and is paved with old ishitadami stones. The contrast with nearby Nara is startling as you go deeper into the forest. There is a jizo (a statue of a bodhisattva), and near the first pass is a small house, where daifuku (bean cakes) and drinks are served. From here the trail leads past plantations of tea, small hamlets and thick forests of cedar. At the halfway point is Enjō-ji Temple, with a garden and pond that were once part of a HeianEra paradise garden, as well as a statue of the Dainichi Nyorai carved by Unkei. Further on, in Yagyu Village itself, is Hōtokuji Temple, built to honor Yagyu Munetoshi, where you can see various pieces of armor used by the Yagyu Clan and handwritten scrolls. Also nearby is the Itto-seki, a large stone
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泊所などが立ち並ぶ。日本最古の神社は石上神宮で、こ こには西暦2～3世紀ごろ、百済の国王から送られた七支 刀と呼ばれる刀が祭られている。 南端には、背後にそびえる三輪山を祭る大神神社があ り、日本で最も古い神社の一つと考えられる。寺院の建造 物というのは仏教が伝来してからのもので、この大神神社 や近隣の日原神社には拝殿はない。 山の辺の道にある二つの巨大な墓は、伝説によると10 代目崇神天皇と12代目景行天皇のものだと言われており、 それぞれが全長240と300メートルほど。堀に囲まれてはいる が、今では深い森となっている。 山の辺の道は京都、又は大阪から電車で約一時間。ト レイルにはお店が少ないので、スナックなどを持っていくこと をお勧めするが、半分ほど歩いたところにあるレストランで 地元の名産三輪そうめんを食べるのも良いだろう。 さて、ここから1000年ほど進むと奈良市と柳生の村を繋ぐ 柳生街道となる。柳生村は柳生藩とその将軍であった柳 生宗利の本拠地で、彼は新陰流と呼ばれる剣術でもよく知 られる。この道は何百年にもわたり、奈良と柳生を行き来 する僧侶や農民、兵士などが使ってきた。 奈良市の中心から春日神社へと向かうトレイルは深い林 を通る石畳の道だ。林の奥深くへと進むにつれて変化する 奈良の街との景色の違いにはきっと驚かされることだろう。 地蔵があったり、最初の通りにある小さな家では大福や飲 み物を楽しむことが出来、 ここから道は茶畑から小さな村落、 そして深い杉林を抜けていく。 半分ほどの地点にあるのが円城寺。ここには平安時代 につくられた庭園の名残である庭や池、それに運慶作の大 日如来などもある。更に進み、柳生宗利を奉る柳生村の 法徳寺では柳生藩が使ったよろいの数々や絵巻などを見る ことが出来る。近隣には一刀石と呼ばれる真っ二つに裂け た岩があり、伝説によると、柳生宗利が天狗と戦っている 最中に半分に切った岩だと言われている。 南東方向、隣接する和歌山県の町石道とよばれるトレイ ルは山頂の寺院が有名な高野山へと続く道だ。高野山は 後に弘法大師と呼ばれるようになった空海が中国で密教を 学んだ後9世紀ごろに開いたもので、いくつもの山頂に囲ま れ、お椀のような形状の特徴的な谷は真言宗の二つの曼 荼羅を表現している。この聖地は繁栄し、100以上の寺院 が存在してその半分は観光客のために宿坊と言われる宿 泊施設として開放されている。 町石道は南海線九度山駅近くの慈尊院から始まり高野 山の大門へ続く急な坂道となる。トレイルにそって建てられ た石の道しるべが町石道の名前の由来。観光客の多くが、 この地域の特産品であるミカン畑や深い杉林などを眺めな がら、電車で移動する。大阪から極楽橋までゆっくりと曲が りくねりながら走り、そこから更にケーブルカーで高野山駅ま で登ることが出来る。 もちろん人とは違った自分なりの行き方を探すのも楽し い。全行程は6～7時間だが近道もある。険しい谷に点在 する村には大阪行きの電車もあるので、ハイキングに疲れ てしまってたとしても安心だ。 ただ、ここを登って高野山を探索しないなんて考えられな い。弘法大師（別名空海）の霊廟である奥ノ院は壮大だ。 ここは多くの日本の政治家や軍人が眠る日本最大の墓地 に囲まれており、UCCコーヒーが建てた巨大な石のコーヒー カップの墓や、JASDAの宇宙船をかたどった墓石などもある。 高野山の中心には、9世紀に開創の祭りが執り行われた 壇上伽藍と寺院建造物がある。蟠龍庭がある真言宗の総 本山金剛峰寺も是非訪れてほしい場所だ。
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that has been split in half. Legend has it Yagyu Munetoshi split the stone in half while fighting with a tengu (Japanese demon). To the southeast, in neighboring Wakayama Prefecture, is the Choseki-do, a trail that leads to Mt. Kōya, a mountaintop complex of temples. Mt. Kōya was founded by the monk Kukai (posthumous name: Kobo Daishi) in the 9th century, after time spent in China studying esoteric Buddhism. Its distinctive shape, with a bowl-shaped valley surrounded by peaks, represented the two mandalas of Shingon (True Word) Buddhism. The complex prospered, and today there still more than 100 separate temples. Half of them offer accommodation to visitors, in lodgings known as shukubo. The Choseki-do Trail leads from Jison-in Temple near Kudoyama Station on the Nankai Line, and it heads up steeply to the great gate (Daimon) at Mt. Kōya. The name comes from the “cho” stone markers along the trail. As you hike upward, at first among the mikan trees for which this area is famous, and later among the dense cedar forest, it’s hard to imagine most people take a train. There is a direct train from Osaka that makes its way slowly up a winding track until it reaches Gokurakubashi (Heaven Bridge), from where a funicular railway carries you up to Mt. Kōya Station itself. There is a certain pleasure in getting off the beaten path, and making your own way up the trail, of course. The full hike takes about six to seven hours, but there are shorter options. Along the way are small villages that nestle in the steep valleys, and where you can board the train if you get tired of the hiking or need to get back to Osaka quickly. It would be a shame to hike up and not spend time exploring Mt. Kōya, though. Okunoin, the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi (as Kukai is posthumously known), is magnificent. It is surrounded by the largest cemetery in Japan, the last resting place of many of Japan's great political and military figures. There is even an area where tombs have been erected by companies such as UCC Coffee (a giant stone coffee cup) and JASDA, the Japanese space agency (a stone space rocket). The Danjo-Garan is the center of Mt. Kōya, where the founding ceremony was held in the 9th century and where the temple structures are located. It is also worth visiting Kongobu-ji, the headquarters of the Shingon sect, with its Banryutei rock garden. ✤
Getting There / アクセス The Yamanobe-no-michi hike starts at Tenri Station, reached by both JR and the private Kintetsu Line from Osaka, Kyoto or Nara. Sakurai Station, at the end of the trail, is also served by JR and Kintetsu. For the Yagyu Kaido, take a bus from Kintetsu Nara Station toward Shin Yakushi-ji Temple and get off before Nara s College. Walk east to enter the trail and end at Hōtoku-ji Temple in Yagyu, or shorten the hike by getting a Women ’ bus back to Nara from Enjō-ji Temple. The Mt. Kōya Choseki-do Trail is reached by Nankai Line from Osaka's Nanba Station by getting off at Kudoyama Station. Return from Mt. Kōya Station to Osaka or stay the night at one of the many shukubo pilgrims’lodgings that take bookings. 山の辺の道：トレイルは天理駅から始まり、大阪、京都、奈良からJR、又は私鉄の近鉄で行くことが出来る。トレイ ルの終わりの桜井駅へもJR、近鉄が通っている。 柳生街道：近鉄奈良駅から新薬師寺方面のバスに乗り、奈良女子大手前で下車。東へ歩くとトレイルが始まり柳 生の法徳寺で終わる。円城寺から奈良駅へ帰るバスもある。 高野山町石道：大阪なんば駅から南海線に乗り、九度山駅で下車。帰りは高野山駅から大阪へ向かうか、もしく は巡礼者のための宿泊施設、宿坊を予約して泊まるのも良い。
Kansai Hiking Tours / 関西ハイキングツアー Oxalis Holidays runs a variety of self-guided hiking trips throughout Japan, providing logistical support, but with the freedom to travel independently. Their trips include a selection of walks and hikes in the Kansai Region. For more information, visit www.oxalisholidays.com. Oxalis Holidaysは個人で行く日本全国のハイキングツアーを手配してくれる。関西エリアでのウォーキングやハイキン グトリップなど個人で旅するための様々なサポートを用意してくれる。詳しくはこちらへ。www.oxalisholidays.com.
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f o s d Fiel
Inakadate Tanbo Art By Gardner Robinson & Rika Cook 32
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田舎館村 田んぼアート
s m a e Dr
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33
34
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“I
f you build it they will come...”This famous quote from the movie“Field of Dreams” could just as easily be attributed to the locals in Inakadate, a small village in northern Japan. In the Hollywood version, Kevin Costner is inspired to build a baseball diamond in the cornfields of rural Iowa. s version, the story unfolds among the In Japan’ rice fields in Aomori Prefecture where villagers have created their own dramatic scenes attracting scores of visitors each summer. It all started in 1993 with rice planting tours to give visitors the opportunity to experience traditional rice farming done by hand as it has been since the Yayoi Period (300 B.C. to 300 A.D.). Following those first tours, they began making a mural in the rice fields of s most beautiful Mt. Iwaki（岩木山）, one of Tohoku’ mountains. To do this they used three kinds of rice; a purple rice called murasakiine（紫稲）, a yellow rice called kiine（黄稲）and Tsugaru Roman（つがるロマ ン） , a local Aomori variety. In 2002, to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the tours and the tanbo (rice field) art, the villagers created an original design of Iwaki-san and the moon, which won the Impact Award from NHK, landing the art in newspapers and on TV. The following year, they tried more complicated designs, including a mural of the Mona Lisa. People began coming from all over Japan to see these unusual creations, which became known simply as Tanbo Art（田んぼアート）. In 2004, they took their art form to another level, using designs that incorporated a perspective effect, making them more beautiful and three-dimensional when seen from viewing observatories. Inakadate attracted 30,000 visitors that year and 130,000 the following summer. In 2006, they added two new varieties of red rice in their design of the God of Wind and Thunder, and the next year 240,000 people came to see a design made after the famous artist Katsushika Hakusai. During the following two years, they added two new kinds of rice, yukiasobi（ゆきあそび）which has white leaves, and the red-tipped iwaiakane（祝い 茜） . They used five crops for their 2010 designs and chose seven varieties in 2011. This year marks the 20th anniversary of Tanbo Art in Inakadate. To celebrate, two special designs have been chosen. Earlier this year, 1,200 volunteers methodically planted the seedlings using, for the first time, nine kinds of rice. The best time for viewing the beautiful creations is July and August. ✤ SUMMER
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cess The ‘Tanbo Art’ Pro 1. Decide on a design. 2. Draw a sketch of the design. 3. Revise the sketch adding a threedimensional perspective. 4. Decide which varieties of rice to use in the design. 5. Create the design plan using CAD based on the sketch. 6. Draw the design on the rice field using surveying instruments. 7. Plant seedlings (the planting experience tour each year occurs on April 29). 8. Weeding and correcting any missed plantings. 9. Harvesting (Tsugaru Roman only, the harvesting experience tour on Sept. 30). 10. Harvesting other crops.
GETTING THERE The fastest way to get to Inakadate Village from Tokyo is to fly from Haneda Airport to Aomori (one hour and 15 minutes), then take a bus to Hirosaki (60 minutes). From Hirosaki, take the Kōnan Tetsudo Line to Inakadate Station (24 minutes). If you rent a car from the airport, it is about a 40-minute drive to Inakadate. If you prefer not to fly, get on the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Shin-Aomori (three hours, 37 minutes), then take the Ōu Line to Hirosaki (36 minutes) and then on to Inakadate Station. There are two Tambo Art fields, and both are about a five-minute taxi ride from Inakadate Station. The first field is on the east side of Inakadate City Hall, and the second field is located at the “Michi no Eki” at Inakadate Yayoi no Sato.
ACCOMMODATION There are no places to stay in Inakadate Village. Visitors are advised to book at one of the hot spring hotels in Kuroishi or Hirakawa City（平川市）or business hotels in Hirosaki City（弘前市） .
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上 げ 潮じゃ H I G H T I D E By Mitsuharu Kume
「帆舟（ほぶね）」 Sailboats
これは 大 きくて重みの
ンブラコ、 ドンブラコ」
想 像 するから不 思 議です。 そし
懸 命 海を走っている小さな舟を
「ド
ちではなくてもそんな帆 舟を操
て、 やりかたによって、 特別お金持
ることは可能なのです。 夢と冒険
ある物が水面を浮き沈みしなが
思 議な日 本 語。 日 本 人 な ら誰 も
ら流れてくる様子を表現する不
旅 する素 晴 らしい世 界がそこに
はあるのです。
に満ちた、 風を使って海を自由に
コ、 ドンブラコと流れてきました」
ある外 人さん達が帆 船 先日、 で僕の住む島にやってきました。
が知っている 「桃太郎」 という昔話
が生まれてくる話なので、 その桃
と使われている （その桃から子供
に 「川上から大きな桃がドンブラ
はかなり大きい） 。 それ以外、 日常
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どの旅です。 彼らは中古の安い帆
船を本州で購入し、 ひとしきり旅
SUMMER
日 本の南の島 々 を 巡る一ヶ月 ほ
ない表現なのに、 日本人なら誰も
トを売り、 飛行機で本州に帰って
を楽しんだあと、 沖縄でそのヨッ
a pastime of the rich. The movies of our youth reinforced this, often featuring a man of substantial means hosting a young lady on his sleek boat. In reality, purchasing a large yacht costs a fortune and the docking fee alone is a princely sum. A sailboat, on the other hand, conjures up a less decadent vision. This smaller vessel pulled along by the strength of the wind isn’t beyond the reach of the average person, yet the dreams and sense of adventure still fill the sails of a free wheeling sailboat. One day a sailboat car r ying some foreigners made land on the island where I live. They were taking a month to tour the southern islands of Japan in a used boat cheaply purchased on the main island of Honshu. They planned to sell their vessel in Okinawa at the end of their journey, then return to Honshu by plane.
生 活で使われることはほとんど
来るから不思議なのです。
いったようです。 こんな楽しみ方
がその情 景を思い描くことが出
に囲まれた島国に生まれ育ってい
を日 本 人は思いつきますか？海
りと海の上を進むことも 「ドンブ
もし 僕 が 他に例 えるな らば、 ヨットが波に揺られながらゆっく
術を持っている人がどれだけいる
るのに、 風を使って海を旅する技
でしょう？
ラコ、 ドンブラコ」 と表現してもい
昔は帆舟で 日本の漁師さんは、 漁をしていました。 でも、 エンジン
いように思います。
船が主流となり、 今は消えていっ
そんな 「ドンブラコ、 ドン さて、 ブラコ」 と進むヨット。 ここには、 と
ても大きな夢と冒険の世界があ
てしまいました。 残 念な話です。
「上 げ 潮 じゃ、 上 げ 潮 じゃ」（ 物 事がいい方 向に向かう時に使 う
36
実 がありま す。 それは、 ヨットと
日本の古い言葉）
onburako, donburako.” The Japanese words express the sight and sound of a large, heavy object floating by. All Japanese people know the folk tale of “Momotaro” (often translated in English to “Peach Boy”). According to the tale, “A giant peach floated – donburako, donburako - down the river.” This peach must have been large since it held the small child inside. Yet although these words are hardly ever used in common speech, every Japanese person can imagine the scene depicted when hearing them. To m e , t h e w o r d s “ d o n b u r a k o, donburako” also elicit the image of a yacht gently floating along the ocean currents and tossed among the waves. Here the words carr y a sense of adventure and dreams yet achieved. Most Japanese people consider yachting
ります。 しかし、 とても残 念な現
ザーヨットに若い水 着のお 姉 さ
くなってしまったのです。
んを乗せて優 雅に遊んでいるイ
原 発 事 故 以 来、自 然エ ネ ル ギーへみんな目を向けています。
その技術が全く伝承されずにな
メージからくるところが多いので
風で発電しなくても、 風で進めば
持 ちの遊 び」 と答 えるのです。 そ
しょう。 実際、 大型のヨット購入に
いいのです。 日本の沿岸に 「ドンブ
聞いて日本人のほとんどが 「お金
はとんでもないお金がかかるし、
れは昔の映画などで、 大型クルー
マリーナに留めておくだけで、 と
ラコ、 ドンブラコ」 と帆 船が走り、
自然の偉大さを多くの人が感じ
んでもないお金がかかります。
上げ潮じゃ。
る世の中になれば、 きっと日 本は
とどうでしょう、 風 を 使って一生
のことを 「帆舟 そこで、「ヨット」 （ ほ ぶね ） 」 と呼んでみます。 する
“D
I wondered if many native Japanese people would come up with this same plan of adventure. Although we are born on a string of islands set adrift in the vast ocean, how many of us would consider touring the seas on wind power alone? Long ago Japanese fishermen relied on sailboats to bring in their catch. However, with the advent of powered craft most sailboats have gone the way of the dodo. Sadly, with them so goes the passing on of both tradition and skill. Since the nuclear accident in Fukushima, more people are looking toward renewable energy in Japan. Wind power is not only a clean energy; it can take us to new places. If the shores of Japan were to see sailboats floating by - donburako, donburako - more people would experience the power of nature and the tide would certainly be riding in Japan.
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Pohnpei: A RARE MICRO Story &
38
Rock photos by Tim
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Island Beat
Japan Islands–Micronesia
Above and below the water, Pohnpei is a diverse island that remains unfettered by the trappings of mass tourism — it is truly a Micronesian jewel.
海の中も外も多様な自然に恵まれたポンペイ島は、未 だマスツーリズムの影響を受けていない、まさしくミク ロネシアの至宝と呼ぶに相応しい島である。
ポン ペ イ 島：ミクロネシ ア の 至 宝
ONESIAN GEM SUMMER
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Pohnpei:
P
ohnpei’s dragonback mountain range rises into the clouds forming a tropical rain forest. More than 40 rivers and 20 waterfalls, ranging from calm and pleasant to spectacular, are contained within the forest. Some are within an easy hike, while others take considerable effort and a good guide to find. The broad inner lagoon is pocked with reefs and blue holes and scribbled with channels broad and deep. Outside the lagoon sit two picture-post cardperfect atolls. It is to the North Pacific what BoraBora is to the South Pacific. Idyllic, lush and inviting. Coming in from the south, the United Island Hopper usually takes the grand tour circumnavigating more than half of the island before heading toward mighty Sokehs Rock, the Diamond Head of the Western Pacific. We touched down in Kolonia town, where a colorful crowd is normally at the airport to greet returning Pohnpeians and visitors. Here I rented a car and headed for the hill overlooking the harbor to Pohnrakiet. This is a village of people of Polynesian descent who hail from the outer Pohnpei state atoll of Kapingamaringi (Google that one). These folks are famous for their carvings made from mangrove wood and palm ivory, and their weavings made from palm and panadanus. Toothed sharks, woven sea turtles and flowing mantas are all fashioned by the creative woodworkers in this village. On this day I got lucky. An adventurous palm ivory nut carver had created a nice eagle ray, and I purchased it. Pohnpei may not be the traditional shopper’s haven. There aren’t any Gucci stores here, but handicraft addicts can blow through a bank account here with ease.
female and a white-bellied male. A mottled stingray also worked its way down the channel, kicking up sand and searching for mollusks. Lunch was at a nearby island, and we ate an unusual bento of fresh tuna, condiments and rice wrapped cleverly in a banana leaf that doubled as the plate. Our second dive was at Areu Wall, a great inner reef wall fed by currents. Here huge sea fans and soft corals thrive. But the most fun is exploring the deep cracks and crevices that have been cut into the wall over the centuries. Sponges, sea whips and lacey corals share the hideaways with billowy sea anemones and beautiful Notodoris nudibranchs. Dense black coral trees hold jittery longnose hawkfish. Some small caves are surrounded in soft corals. This is a relaxing dive that can vary in depth, but there is so much to see in shallow water, it tends to last for a while. It will definitely fill the macro folder for digital photo buffs. At tide change, people may see mantas feeding. This is a great place for divers and snorkelers. For the next few days, we returned to the passes and inner channels and marveled at the marine life. The diving here is uncrowded, and we were normally the only boat out.
MANTA ROAD My hotel was out of town and in the jungle. Simply named The Village, it is rustic and classy in a wellcrafted package, and The Village has received its share of awards over the years as a haven for the eco-tourist. Each stilted and thatched bungalow sits in the jungle with its own special view of the northern lagoon islands. The social area is the open-air dining room and Tattooed Irishman Pub. A famous gazebo has been the watering spot for many a traveler over the years. Soon it was off to sleep with the fan quietly rotating overhead, the sounds of the jungle chirping away and visions of the Pohnpei reef planted firmly in my head. The next morning I set out with The Village’s dive guide to head down to Manta Road. This is Pohnpei’s conribution to the excellent manta sites in Micronesia, and one of the special attractions here is the resident family of mantas which includes some that are almost totally black. The divers gather at a cleaning station which has been designated a protected site to help preserve the manta behavior. Divers must keep their distance from the station, but the mantas still swim close by. On this day, we observed an amorous manta couple—a black
40
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Island Beat
Japan Islands–Micronesia
竜
の背中のような形をしたポンペイ島の山脈は雲まで
マンタ・ロード
高くそびえ、熱帯雨林を形成する。熱帯雨林の中
には、穏やかなものから激しいものまで40以上の川と20以
私は町外れのジャングルの中にあるザ・ビレッジという
上の滝が混在しており、簡単なハイキングで辿り着ける所か
ホテルに宿泊した。ザ・ビレッジは質素だが洗練されてお
ら、相当な労力と優秀なガイドが必要な所もある。
り、エコツーリストの安息地として過去に様々な賞を受賞
広大なラグーン内には、リーフやブルーホールが点在し、 してきている。高床で草ぶき屋根式のバンガローはジャン その間を縫うように幅広く深い水路が走る。またラグーンの
グルの中に佇み、北側のラグーン内にある島々を見渡す
外には、絵に描いたような二つの完璧な環礁が広がる。こ
ことができる。
こは素朴だが豊かで魅惑的であり、南太平洋のボラボラ島 を北太平洋に移したような所だ。 ユナイテッド・アイランド航空の定期便は、南からアプロー
飲食は、オープンエア型の食堂とTattooed Irishman Pub で取ることができる。また有名な見晴らし台は社交場として 多くの旅行者の喉を潤してきた。
チしながら、通常、島を半周程旋回した後、西太平洋のダイ
それから私は頭上で静かに回転するシーリングファンの
ヤモンド・ヘッドと言われる壮大なソケース・ロックに向かっ
下、ジャングルからの囀りを聞き、ポンペイのリーフを想像し
て下降する。我々は、いつも帰省客や旅行者を待つカラフ
ながら眠りについた。
ルな人々で溢れているコロニア・タウンの飛行場に着陸した。 私は、レンタカーを借り、港が見下ろせる丘にあるポラキ
翌朝、ザ・ビレッジのダイビング・ガイドとマンタ・ロード に向けて出発。ここはミクロネシアの数あるすばらしいマン
エット村に向かった。この村はもともとポンペイ州のカピンガ
タ・スポットの一つであり、特に定住しているマンタの中に
マランギ環礁（グーグルしてみて）に住んでいたポリネシア
ブラックマンタ （全身が黒いマンタ）がいるのは見どころだ。
系の人々を由来としており、マングローブやゾウゲヤシを使っ た彫り物や、ヤシやアダンを使った織物で有名だ。
ダイバー達は、保護区にも指定されているマンタのクリ ニーング・ステーションでマンタを観察する。ダイバーはクリ
独創的な木工職人により、サメ、ウミガメ、マンタなどが
ニーング・ステーションから距離を置く必要があるものの、マ
彫られ、この日私は幸運にもゾウゲヤシの実で作ったトビエ
ンタはかまわずすぐ近くを泳いでいく。この日は、黒色のメス
イの彫り物を購入することができた。ポンペイ島には、グッ
と、お腹が白いオスのマンタ・カップルを見ることができた。
チなどの高級店があるわけではないが、民芸品好きは、いと
また、まだら模様のアカエイが水路の流れに逆らい砂を巻
も簡単に大金を費やしてしまうことであろう。
き上げながら貝を捜しているのも見た。 昼食は近くの島で新鮮なマグロ、香辛料とお米をバナナ の葉っぱで包んだ少し変わった弁当を食べた。バナナの葉 はもちろんプレート代わりにもなる。 我々のセカンド・ダイブは、壮大なリーフの壁がそびえる アレウ・ウォールというポイントで、ここは潮流が運ぶ豊かな エサのおかげで巨大なイソバナ類やソフトコーラルが繁茂し ている。しかし最も楽しいのは、数世紀に渡る浸食により刻 まれたリーフの壁の深い割れ目や裂け目を探検することで、 カイメン、ムチサンゴ、サンゴモドキと伴に、揺らめくイソギン チャクや美しいノトドリス属のウミウシを見ることができる。 また密集した黒サンゴの枝には神経質そうなクダゴンベ がとまり、小さな洞窟の周りをソフトコーラルが囲む。ここは 水深もまちまちではあるがリラックスしながら潜れるポイントで あり、浅い所も見どころが豊富なため、長時間なダイブにな りがちだ。接写フォルダのメモリがすぐに一杯になること受 け合いである。潮の変わり目にはマンタがエサを食べてい る姿を見ることもできるこの場所は、間違いなくダイビングや シュノーケリングに最高の場所だ。 それから数日間、我々はリーフパスや水路で潜り続け、海 の生物に驚嘆する日々を過ごした。ここでのダイブは混雑とは 無縁であり、大抵は我々以外のボートを見ることはなかった。
環礁 ポンペイ島の近くには、アンツとパキンという環礁があり、 貿易風が弱まり海が穏やかになる4月と5月が最もダイビング に適した時期となる。ポンペイ島の巨大な堡礁内には、 リー フ壁やリーフパスなど多くのダイビング・スポットがあるが、 嬉しいことにその他にも素晴らしいダイビング・スポットが近 くの環礁にあるということだ。 アンツ環礁は涙を流すほど美しいと人々は言う。そしてそ の美しさは私も認めざるを得ない。大きなリーフパスである トゥアオアイオアイ・パスは、内側のラグーンに開き、そこ には太平洋でも有数の手付かずのビーチが広がっている。 シュノ－ケリングをするのに最適で、透明度の高いドロップ オフ沿いにはサンゴやイソバナ類を見ることが出来る。 SUMMER
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Pohnpei:
THE ATOLLS Pohnpei also has two nearby atolls, Ahnd and Pakien, best explored when the ocean flattens after trade wind season, around April or May. It’s not enough the island has some great walls, passes and reefs as part of its huge barrier reef lagoon. Offshore, it also has two amazing atolls for divers to explore. Ahnd Atoll’s beauty, people tell me, can bring tears to the eyes. I must admit, it is stunning. A large pass, Toawoaioai Pass, opens to an inner lagoon with some of the most idyllic sand beaches in the Pacific. It is a snorkeler’s paradise where the clear waters along the pass dropoff show coral beds and golden sea fans. Pakien Atoll is off the southwest tip of Pohnpei’s barrier reef. There is no inner lagoon passage, so all diving is done on the outer reefs. A snorkel along the edge of the reef reveals visibility well over 30 meters. Below, schools of barracuda circle in the canyons. Ahnd beaches are accessible and idyllic. No one lives here, and the shores are sandy. The jungle is dense with lots of seabirds and even fruit bats flying overhead at all times. In the evenings, frigate birds circle the islands, coasting on the thermals that rise from the land. Ahnd’s one major pass really attracts divers. They come here because the change of tides promises such creatures as sailfish, Pacific blue marlin, all sorts of rays, yellowfin tuna, and the list goes on. Sharks include some extremely large oceanic whitetips as well as silvertips and grays. Listen for dolphins in the waters as well. This can be a swift drift depending on the tide change (check the moon phase), so some drift diving experience is a prerequisite. As one has to cross open ocean to get to either atoll, visit here during the calmer summer months. Few people get to dive genuine Pacific atolls and these isles off Pohnpei’s main island are an ocean world all their own.
PALIKIR PASS A visit to Pohnpei must also include a dive at Palikir Pass, home to a school of at least 100 gray reef sharks who gather when the incoming tide changes. Giant grouper have been seen here, and schooling eagle rays frequent the pass mouth. This pass which, until recently was a well-kept secret surfing spot, now attracts serious wave riders when the swell hits. Palikir and the harbor passage are both world class surf spots that see many surfers visit in the Northern Hemisphere winter months.
OUT OF THE WATER The island is lush and green. I took the time to hike up to the top of Sokehs Ridge where a panoramic view of the western coast of the island, Kolonia Town, the scenic harbor and Palikir Pass can all be
42
taken in. It used to be a pretty tough trip up here, but the new cell phone tower means the old Japanese road up the ridge is now passable thanks to the FSM Telecom crews. One merely has to park the car at the base of the old road that runs above Sokehs Village. Then you hike up a rather steep incline to the ridgetop, pausing for a rest or two and a swallow of water along the way. Some friends had offered to hike up with me, but I wanted to go it alone, choosing to hear the chatter of the white terns, as they warned me to stay away from their jungle nests. I saw wild deer tracks in some muddy sections of the road as well. Once atop the tower area, the breeze blows and the vistas mesmerize. One can look at the rear of mighty Sokehs Rock, the island’s most impressive landmark, and down on all of the reef passages. A couple of boats were headed out into the blue to perhaps fish or dive. Surfers headed on jet skis out to the surfable passes. On the way down, I noticed some work had been done in an area that was once a Japanese WWII defense enclave. I ventured over to find a huge complex has now been landscaped and planted with flowers. Old bunkers and building remnants can be entered and explored. Big gun emplacements are easy to reach. In town I found another fascinating collection of war vehicles. Behind the main hardware store in a grassy field there are a lot of WWII-era trucks and SUMMER
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heavy equipment. Next to them could possibly be the largest collection of Japanese tanks anywhere. Most are intact with tracks still on and gun turrets askew. I am told there are still more nearby in the jungle. One Pohnpei resident has even fully restored one of the tanks and occasionally drives it around his construction yard. The Pohnpeian people were occupied by the Germans, Spanish, Japanese and Americans for more than two centuries. Reminders of these eras are seen at the Spanish Wall at the baseball field, old churches and other remnants. But today, Kolonia is a bustling town, and the natural beauty of the island awaits the adventurous and discerning traveler. ✤
Island Beat
Japan Islands–Micronesia
パキン環礁はポンペイ島の堡礁の南西端の先にあり、
た。ダイバー達がここに来る理由は、潮の変わり目に、 バショ
リーフパスがないためダイビングは外洋に面したリーフです
ウカジキ、ブルーマーリン、エイ類、キハダマグロなど、数え
ることになる。リーフエッジに沿ってシュノ－ケリングをした
きれないほどの生物に出会えるからである。サメ類は、巨大
が、30mを超える透明度があり、真下にはバラクーダの群れ
なヨゴレザメを初め、ツマジロやオグロメジロザメが見られる。
が回遊していた。
また耳を澄ませばイルカの鳴き声が聞こえることも。ここで
アンツのビーチは手付かずだがアクセスは難しくない。誰
のダイブは時間帯によっては潮の流れが速い時もあるので
も住んでおらず海岸は砂浜だ。深いジャングルがあり、海
（潮位表は要チェック） 、ある程度のドリフト・ダイビングの
鳥やフルーツコウモリが頭上を飛び回る。夕方にはグンカン ドリが陸からの上昇気流に乗りながら島を旋回する。 アンツの有名なリーフパスは多くのダイバーを魅了してき
経験が必要である。 いずれの環礁も、辿り着くには外洋を横断する必要があ るので、穏やかな夏の時期がおすすめだ。ポンペイ島から 離れた手付かずの環礁や島々に潜るなんてそうそう出来るこ とではないし、独特の海の世界に浸れることをお約束する。
パリキール・パス ポンペイ島に来た際はパリキール・パスでのダイブも外し てほしくない。上げ潮時には100匹以上のオグロメジロザメ の群れを見ることができたり、巨大なハタも目撃されており、 トビエイの大群もパスの入口を度々訪れる。 またこのパスは世間にあまり知られていないサーフスポッ トだったが、最近は波が上がると多くのハードコア・サー ファーがやってくるようになった。パリキールと港のパスは両 方ともワールドクラスなサーフスポットで、北半球の冬シーズ ンには多くのサーファーが訪れる。
島内の観光 島は濃い緑で覆われている。私は島の西海岸、コロニ ア、港とパリキール・パスを見下ろせるソケースリッジの頂 上まで登ることにした。かつて、この頂上に辿り着くのは困 難だったが、FSMテレコムが携帯用電波塔を設置したおか げで今は尾根に向かう旧道路を利用することが可能だ。 ソケース村の裏を通る旧道路のふもとに車を停め、そこ から尾根の頂までは小休止と水の補給を繰り返しつつ、少 し急な坂道を登るだけである。一緒に登ろうとする友人達 の誘いを断り、私はアジサシが巣に近寄るなと警戒する鳴 き声を聞きながら、一人静かに登ることにした。また、途中、 道路のぬかるみに野生の鹿の足跡もみつけた。 頂上に辿り着くと、そよ風と伴に魅惑的な景色が待ち受 ける。この場所からは、島内で最も印象的なランドマークで あるソケース・ロックの背面と全てのリーフパスが見渡せる。 数隻のボートが釣りかダイビングのため外洋に向かい、また サーファーがジェットスキーでサーフポイントに向かっていた。 降りる途中、旧日本軍の砲台跡地があるのに気付き先 に進むと、広大な跡地が綺麗に整備され花も植えられてい た。古くなった掩蔽号や廃屋を探検することができ、また大 きな砲床も近くにある。 町には戦争車両のコレクションもある。工具店の裏、芝 生の広場には、第二次世界大戦時のトラックや重機が放 置されており、またその隣には旧日本軍の戦車コレクション が恐らく世界のどこよりも多く並んでいる。大半の戦車は原 型を保っており、キャタピラや砲塔も着いたままである。また ここだけでなく、近くのジャングルにも残っているとのこと。 あるポンペイ市民は一台の戦車を修理して、時々自分の工 事敷地内で乗り回しているそうだ。 ポンペイ島の人々は2世紀以上に渡り、 ドイツ人、スペイ ン人、日本人や米国人の統治下にあった。統治時の名残 は、スペイン砦跡、野球場、教会やその他の残骸に見るこ とができる。しかし今日、コロニアは賑やかな町に変貌し、 島の美しい自然は冒険心にあふれた旅行者達を待ち受け ている。✤ SUMMER
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Island Beat Japan Islands–Micronesia GETTING THERE:
Pohnpei is serviced frequently from Guam and Hawaii by United
Airlines.
DEPARTURE TAX: US$15 is payable on check-in before receiving boarding pass. Keep some extra cash; no credit cards are accepted.
MONEY, BANKING: The U.S. dollar is the official currency. There are U.S. FDIC-insured banks operating in Pohnpei. Most major credit cards are welcome at most visitor-oriented businesses. Cash using credit cards at the banks and at ATMs can be found in Kolonia. TIME: The FSM spans two time zones. Yap and Chuuk are 10 hours ahead of GMT; Pohnpei and Kosrae are GMT +11 hours.
TELECOMMUNICATIONS/POSTAL: There is a communication station run by the national government. The FSM enjoys modern, reliable telecom links worldwide. Internet services are readily available and faster than Chuuk. Most hotels have free lobby internet and some have internet service that can be accessed in the rooms. USEFUL INFO: FSM Visitors Board: www.visit-micronesia.fm Pohnpei Visitors Bureau: Tel: +691-320-4851/4823; E-Mail: pohnpeivb@yahoo.com
アクセス：ユナイテッド・アイランド航空の定期便が、グアムとハワイから運航
している。
出国税：US$15を支払う必要があり、航空券を受け取る際にチェックイン・カ ウンターで払う事ができる。クレジットカードは使えないので現金を持参すること。 お金、銀行：公式通貨はUSドル。ポンペイ島にはU.S. FDICの加盟銀行も
営業している。大半のクレジットカードは旅行者向けの店であれば使用可能。ク レジットカードのキャシングはコロニアのATMや銀行で可能。
時差：ミクロネシア連邦（FSM）は、2つの時間帯がある。ヤップとチュークは GMT +10時間。ポンペイとコスラエはGMT +11時間。
通信： 中央政府が通信基地を運営している。FSMの通信網は近代的で信 頼性が高い。インターネットは広く普及しており、チュークより通信速度が速い。 大半のホテルはロビーに無料インターネット・サービスがあり、部屋からのアクセ スもホテルによっては可能。 その他の情報源：ミクロネシア連邦政府観光局: www.visit-micronesia.fm ポンペイ州観光局: Tel: +691-320-4851/4823; E-Mail: pohnpeivb@yahoo.com
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Where the Trail
トレイルが終わる場所
Free riding the Hidden Kingdom 隠された王国でのフリーライド
46
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WORLD TRAVELER
Ends By Pat O Keeffe
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47
T
he Upper Mustang District in Western Nepal is on the radar of most adventure travelers. However, due to high permit costs and the expense to get there, not all make it to this beautiful corner of the Himalayas. The area still remains culture rich without having all the tourist paraphernalia and infrastructure you find at other popular tourist spots in Nepal. I had tried several times, unsuccessfully, to organize mountain bike trips into the region. So it was by chance my old friend, Scott Lindgren, with whom I’d been on many adventures, contacted me asking for help putting together a trip to the Upper Mustang. Scott, an Emmy award-winning filmmaker, wanted to shoot a section of a new film on which he was he was working with Freeride Entertainment and Red Bull called “Where the Trail Ends.” With the help of another good friend, a local operator in Nepal, we eventually secured all the
48
documentation and permits for entering the Upper Mustang Kingdom and the incredible terrain that would be the backdrop for the film. The mountain bikers I’d be guiding on this fat tire adventure included Red Bull rider Darren Berrecloth from Canada, American Cameron Zinc and Canadians Garret Buehler and Kurt Sorge. Flying directly to Jomsom from Kathmandu on a charter flight and up the Kali Kandaki Valley is an adventure in itself. As you glide up the valley floor and peer out of the windows, 6,000-meter peaks dwarf you on both sides. From Jomsom, it’s just a short jeep ride to the entrance of Upper Mustang at the village of Kagbeni. This is a slight detour from the famous Annapurna Circuit that attracts trekkers from around the world. At Kagbeni, we loaded our gear onto donkeys and porters to start our trek toward Lo Manthang, scouting out spots for filming along the way. The stunning views of Nilgiri and Tilicho, two
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spectacular 7,000-meter mountains, shadowed us on our way up the valley where we camped at a village called Chele at an altitude of 3,000 meters. Although most of the group had been out on various far-flung adventures, this would perhaps be the furthest they had been without any modern amenities. Here they would be introduced to a bleak, yet beautiful landscape and a people with a rich culture who have learned to survive in this desolate environment. The landscape up here is simply breathtaking, with huge cliffs and bluffs worn down by centuries of erosion. The dry, arid conditions make it a brutal place to live for locals who expertly find the precious water that runs off the surrounding glaciers. Guided to water, it’s amazing to see patches of green appear in this hostile environment. In winter, most of the locals move down to the valleys below to escape the extreme weather, leaving just a few to look after the houses
WORLD TRAVELER
and some stock that gets left behind. From Chele we trekked over several passes where we captured some great footage on the way to Geling, another enclave with a stunning monastery perched on the side of a hill. The well-irrigated crops in the valley below put a bit of green into the brown, dusty surroundings. The group found some great lines to ride in the nearby hills. The locals watched in amazement at the routes these free riders were taking. Goats were the only ones who dared to use these trails, if you could call them that. Moving further up the valley toward the Tibetan border, we stopped at Tsarang, where a huge fivestorey monastery fortress is perched on the edge of the Kali Kandaki Gorge. At Tsarang, we shot more footage on the east end off the village and enjoyed the warm hospitality of the locals and their customs. Finally we crossed over a pass into Lo Manthang. Here, within the ancient walled town, the King of
Upper Mustang has his residence. There are also some famous monasteries such as the three-storey Jampa Lhakhang, the red Thubchen Gompa with its massive assembly hall, the Chodey Gompa and Choprang Gompa. We based ourselves here for several days, making the most of the surrounding areas, including a trip up to Chhoser and the Jhong Caves where monks still lived until not so long ago. Running out of time, we hired trucks to drive us back down the riverbed of the Kali Kandaki to Jomsom, a trip not to be missed by intrepid travellers. It is seven hours of some of the roughest terrain you can imagine. The views going through the canyon will take your breath away; it nearly closes over you at one stage, allowing just a crack of light to sneak through. The drive through the riverbed can only be done in certain times of the year. When monsoon season starts, it is impossible to drive as the waters rage from cliff to cliff. We arrived back to Jomsom
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somewhat shaken up and keen to have a shower. Refreshed, we sipped cold beers while taking in the great views of Nilgiri, remembering the incredible experience we just had. The sights and sounds of the Upper Mustang were unforgettable and, with the help of some generous and knowledgeable locals, the trip was a great success; the permit money well spent. Although the riders on this trip were professionals pulling off some ridiculous maneuvers and seemingly pushing the limits of what was possible, the Upper Mustang has much to offer mere mortals as well. A moderately fit person willing to ride anything from challenging or technical ride single track to jeep trails can have a great time, and they will be able to experience a place where time has stood still for centuries, and cultural and natural beauty abounds. If you’ve dreamed of spinning some fat wheels in the Himalayas, it’s time to saddle up and ride the Upper Mustang. ✤
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR When not leading first descents down some of the world’s craziest rivers or guiding mountain bikers in the Himalayas, Pat O’Keeffe lives with his wife and daughter in Hidaka, Hokkaido, where he runs Hokkaido Outdoor Adventures. He is also part owner in The Last Resort, an adventure retreat a few hours outside Kathmandu near the Tibet border. If you are ready to saddle up and explore the Upper Mustang Kingdom by mountain bike, contact Pat at Hokkaido Outdoor Adventures about an upcoming trip. Freeride Entertainment’s “Where the Trail Ends” will be released in September 2012.
WEB CONNECTION Hokkaido Outdoor Adventures: www.hoa-rafting.co.jp The Last Resort: www.thelastresort.com.np Where the Trail Ends: www.wherethetrailends.com
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51
Gee
eaaa fff
cooo
By Bryan Harrell
HHHHbb GGGutt
iii
Outsider Brewing
laa
アウトサイダー・ブルーイング Kofu, Yamanashi
Enjoy the beautiful natural surroundings of charming Hakuba in your own self-catered modern villa. Gakuto Villas are the perfect countryside retreat for weekend gataways and extended holidays. Come enjoy the fresh mountain air and pack in the outdoor activities. Then relax in the comfort of your new home-away-from home.
山梨 県甲府 市
M
ark Major, the founder of Outsider Brewing, is certainly no outsider to the beer world. In fact, this native of Australia has been running a successful pub in Kofu City, called The Vault, since 2003. What’s more, this is the second bar Mark has operated in Japan. Based on the success of The Vault, in D e c e m b e r 2 010 h e ambitiously planned to open a small brewery by December 2011. After a few unexpected delays, Outsider Brewing opened its doors at the end of February this year, along with the brewery’s pub, Hops & Herbs, on the second floor of the building. Mark also had the wisdom to hire one of Japan’s most celebrated brewers, Toshi Niwa, as his brewmaster. Niwa is wellknown as the genius behind the distinctive and innovative beers from Hakusekikan Brewery in Gifu where he departed a few years back to become a brewer at Iwate Kura Brewery in Tohoku. Niwa now joins Outsider to create a new series of beers certain to become popular. Already, this list is full of tempting
selections, including Innkeeper Bitter Lager, Flanders Belgian White, The Counties Pale Ale, Bunyip Australian IPA, Drunk Monk Tripel and The Dark Side Imperial Stout. I managed to try the Bunyip IPA at a festival in April and quite enjoyed the sharp but quickly fading malty sweetness that balanced the strong hop bitterness. The Tripel and Stout w ill definitely draw attention as both are a hef t y 8 % a lcohol, but will no doubt earn fans because of their complex aromas and flavor profiles. The Hops & Herbs brewpub is in the capable hands of manager Mami Shinohara, a veteran of The Vault known for her cheerful character. The food menu is full of great matches for the Outsider beer lineup, including spicy potato salad, wasabi pizza and the Fujizakura pork sausage assortment. Hops & Herbs is open weekdays from 5 p.m. to midnight and on weekends and holidays from noon to midnight. For more details, see the Web site which has sections for both the brewery and the pub.
アジャーがビールの世界においてアウトサイダーで
ウトサイダー・ブルーイングの創設者マーク・メ
check us out on Trip Advisor and Facebook
www.gakutovillas.com Reservation Hotline:
ン・ホワイ ト、 ザ・カウンティーズ・ペール・エール、 バンイッ ドランク・マンク・ トリペル、 そして プ・オーストラリア・IPA、 あるわけはなく、 オーストラリア出身の彼は2003年甲府 ザ・ダーク・サイド・インペリアル・スタウトといった豊富な ” というバーをスタートさせ、 メニューがそろっている。 市に “The Vault（ザ・ヴォルト） 4月に行われたイベントで私はバンイップ・IPAを飲んで 現在もなお人気を集め続けている。更に、 ここは日本で みることができた。 モルトの甘さがパッと消えるのがホッ 彼が出した2件目のバーでもあるのだ。 2010年、 マークは、 The Vault（ザ・ヴォルト） での成功 プの強い苦みと絶妙なバランスをとるビールだ。 トリペル 2011年12月までに小さな醸造所を作る事を心 とスタウトに関しては8％という高いアルコール度数が注 をもとに、 アウ 目されるが、 に誓う。予定より多少遅れはしたが、 今年2月の末、 絶妙なアロマの香りと味わいでファンを魅了 トサイダー・ブルーイングの門出を祝う事が出来た。 また している。 Hops & Herbs（ホップスア 同時に醸造所の2階にバー、 ホップスアンドハーブズの有能マネージャーである篠 ンドハーブズ） もオープン。 原真美さんは、 その明るい性格と共にザ・ヴォルトのベ メニューには、 スパイ マークは日本で最も良く知られている醸造家であり、 テランとして皆に親しまれている。 スパイシーわさびピザ、 フジザクラポー 岐阜県にある博石館の、 個性豊かで革新的なビール シーポテトサラダ、 アウトサイダー の立役者として有名な丹羽智氏をブルーマスターとして ク使用ソーセージ盛り合わせなどがあり、 迎え入れる事も出来た。数年前東北地方にあるいわて のビールにぴったりなものばかりだ。 蔵ビールに移り、 醸造技師として勤めた丹羽氏は、 現在 ホップスアンドハーブスの営業時間は、 平日17:00～ 週末・祭日は12:00～24:00となっている。醸造所 アウトサイダー・ブルーイングの一員となり必ずや人気シ 24:00、 とバーの詳細に関しては、 同ウェブサイトにて確認する リーズとなるであろうビールの制作を手がけている。 既にインキーパ・ビター・ラガー、 フランダーズ・ベルジャ 事が出来る。
Japan +81 (03) 4577310 Hong Kong +852 8199 9281
Outsider Brewing
アウトサイダー・ブルーイング
Australia +61 (02) 8055 8193
Hops & Herbs 1-5 Chuo 1-chome, Kofu City, Yamanashi 400-0032
〒 4 0 0 - 0 0 3 2 山梨県甲府 市中央 1 丁目1- 5
gakutovillas@create-living.com 52
Phone: (055) 225-2012 Web: www.outsiderbrewing.jp SUMMER
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Cycling Japan:
A JOURNEY TO EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL LIFE
By Takashi Niwa Translated by Sakae Sugahara
サイクリング—それは 土地の暮らしを感じる旅
ROUTE
Off-the-beaten-track Japan SHIRETOKO PENINSULA
Abashiri
16
#
Memanbetsu START!
Tour of Doto, Hokkaido
KUSSHARO LAKE
MASHU LAKE GOAL!
AKAN LAKE
Nemuro
HOKKAIDO
NEMURO PENINSULA
Kushiro
北海道 道東地方を巡る
The route covers about 230 kilometers. There are several direct flights daily from Haneda or Kansai Airports to Memanbetsu. From Nemuro, there is airport bus service to Nakashibetsu Airport. このルートの距離は約 230㎞。女満別空港には東京（羽田）、 ゴールの根室から 関西空港などから1日数便のフライトがある。 は中標津空港に連絡バスがある。
SEE A DIFFERENT SIDE OF JAPAN SELF-GUIDED WALKING Discover Japan your own way - with a self-guided walking trip along the historic Nakasendo or Kumano Kodo trails!
WALKING TRAILS Evocative village-to-village walking
+ ACCOMMODATION + MAPS & DIRECTIONS Local inns with excellent regional cuisine
Detailed route maps and step-by-step directions
Riding (feels like swimming) through the wheat fields. 麦畑の中を泳ぐように走る。晴れていれば知床連山も見える。
T
he biggest appeal of Hokkaido is its vastness—unmatched by any other part of Japan. Traveling by bike, you really feel that. This is especially true in eastern Hokkaido, or Doto, where scenery remains the same for tens of kilometers at a stretch and then changes dramatically. If you start your trip from Memanbetsu Airport in ŌZora Town near Abashiri, you will soon find yourself in the midst of one of Japan’s largest grain belts. In summer, rolling hills patch -worked with golden wheat, white potato blossoms and plants of various colors will greet your eyes. Then, you cross over from Bihoro Pass to Koshimizu Pass and into the Konsen Plain where meadowlands are dotted with cowsheds. It is a pasturing country and, in fact, the area is more densely populated with cows than humans. Further south, the route will be running
a long t he shoreline, connecting sma ll fishing villages. On a clear day, you can see the Russian-occupied northern islands right across the strait. Be sure to visit Cape Nosappu before finishing your journey in Nemuro City.
北
海道の魅力は他の日本にはない広大さで、サイ
クリングをすればより一層それを感じることができ
るはず。中でも北海道東部の道東エリアは、数十キロ 単位で景色が大きく変わるのが魅力。 女満別空港(大空町)をスタート。周辺は国内有数 の穀倉地帯で、夏なら麦畑が黄金色になり、ジャガイ モなどの花が咲くパッチワークの丘となる。美幌峠か 小清水峠を越えると根釧原野となり、牧草地の中に 牛舎が点在する酪農地帯に入る。人口よりも牛の数 の方がが多いエリアだ。そして根室半島に入るとコー スは海辺の道となり小さな漁村を通り過ぎていく。晴れ ていれば北方領土が間近に見えるだろう。納沙布岬 を巡り根室市内でゴールする。
Takashi Niwa’s Yamamichi Adventure company has been renamed Niwa Cycling Tours (www.ncycling.com). He offers many bike tours, both domestic and overseas. For other routes in Japan, please pick up a copy of “CYCLING JAPAN: 10 of the Best Rides, Vol. 1 by Takashi Niwa,” at bookshops around Japan and various online stores.
丹羽隆志（にわ たかし） 2011年1月より “やまみちアドベンチャー”改め “に わサイクリングツアー” （www.ncycling.com）として 国内外の各地をガイドする。国内のコースについ ては『丹羽隆志の日本ベストサイクリングコース10 vol.1 』を参照してほしい。
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WIN A TRIP FOR 2 enter here enter here
oxalisholidays.jp
info@oxalisholidays.jp 53
Going Out On Top シーカヤックで釣りを楽しむ
S
ome buddies of mine who fish in Tokyo Bay and the Shonan area have been trying to get me to drop a little cash on a sea kayak for some time. Despite being a bit hardheaded about my fishing, I have to admit I’m a bit curious. I’ve seen a number of anglers and recreational paddlers pushing off from the beach near my house during the summer, and they seem to be having some fun. My interest in sea kayaking and sea kayak
54
fishing grew after a conversation with Australian Graham Sayer. In May 2010, Graham started Viking Kayak Japan. The company is currently Japan’s only manufacturer of Siton-Top (SOT) kayaks; all other brands are imported. According to Graham, kayak fishing on specially designed SOT fishing kayaks has been around in Japan for six or seven years, starting in Chiba and spreading throughout Japan. The main types of SOT kayaks initially used were American designs and not ideal for Japanese sea conditions. Although kayak fishing has been popular in the States for years, the majority of early adopters were fresh water lake fisherman using lighter flat-hulled models instead of slightly heavier “Deep V” models better suited for sea fishing. There are an estimated 5,000 kayak fishermen in Japan but, as Graham points out, it’s hard to get an accurate
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count because all kayaks are imported under the same category. “In a fairly depressed recreational fishing market (compared with 10 years ago) kayak fishing has stood out and is trending upward,” he says. SOTs have their advantages over sea kayaks or small boats. “Other than the obvious advantages of weight, ease of transport and being eco-friendly (the frames are 100 percent recyclable), SOT kayaks have a ‘scupper hole system,’ meaning they self-drain, so they are nearly impossible to sink, even in high seas or heavy rain. You won’t need a bailer or pump,” Graham said. He also points out paddling SOT kayaks is easy, and they are so stable you can stand up on some models. While the kayaks allow you to stealthily explore waterways, they also allow you to have all your gear set out, just like you would on land when you go fishing. The main difference between buyers of sea kayaks and those purchasing fishing kayaks is the former generally make a purchase with an interest in paddling, while fishermen buy an SOT fishing kayak as they would a new fishing rod or reel–for the sole purpose of catching more fish.
So, where does Graham recommended paddling? “Most prefectures have a number of ‘must visit’ areas suitable for SOT kayaking, for leisure paddling and fishing. Even Tokyo is full of canals used by kayakers. We have heard the area around the new Sky Tree is popular at the moment. Rivers, such as the Tama which empties in the ocean just south of Haneda Airport, are worth a paddle. “The Zushi and Hayama coastlines have some nice spots and, if you like lakes, the Fuji Five Lakes area is great. Further south Nagasaki and Miyazaki have some unreal spots for paddling and fishing as well. Viking Kayak also runs some tours in the Kawane Honcho area of Shizuoka Prefecture, especially beautiful in autumn.” The biggest advantage to sea kayak fishing for me seems to be the ability to access points in the shallows that both shoreline and boat anglers can’t. I can think of a dozen such areas along the Shonan coast alone that I reckon hold some lunkers at different times of the year. Maybe it’s time to drop a little coin on a kayak of my own and see what fishing mischief I can get into.
FEATURES OF MODERN ‘SOT’ SEA KAYAKS • Well-designed models have deep keels that travel the full length of the hull, meaning a rudder is not necessary. • A wider, more stable platform than regular SOT kayaks. • Many designs allow for easy fish finder installation. Most kayak fishermen install a waterproof fish finder with GPS, so they can hunt for fish instead of just guessing their location. • Made with tough poly plastic that will withstand rough treatment such as banging into rocks and scraping along the beach. • Modern fishing kayaks are set out with flush mount rod holders as well as rod, camera and device holder dashboards. This allows the fishermen to have lures, rods, reels, tackle and bait set around them within easy reach.
USEFUL INFO More information about Viking Kayak Tours can be found online at www.australiancanoe.com. Folks in the Kanto area who wish to try sit-in sea kayaking or SOT kayaking can ring Toshi Nagaoka at 080-50706779. He speaks English well and has tours in Izu and Zushi. Graham is happy to field any questions about SOT kayaking for anyone interested in trying in Japan. He can be reached at graham@vikingkayak.co.jp or by calling 080-3689-5978.
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55
SUMMER ACTIVITY GUIDE
Every season a new adventure
Kanagawa Kanagawa’s Shonan area is said to be the home of surfing in Japan and, with easy access to Tokyo and Yokohama, it is one of the most popular (and populated) surfing communities in the country. In general, Shonan covers everything from Zushi and Kamakura to the east all the way to Oiso and Yoshihama to the west. The area from Zushi to Enoshima has the most spots, although Kugenuma is most popular with longboarders, with waves rarely getting overhead high. Weekends and holidays are crowded but, if you can get up early, you’ll find a fair number of offshore days and some nice waves.
By Kuni Takanami
ZUSHI & KAMAKURA
A
KANAGAWA Chigasaki
Kamakura Fujisawa
West Shonan
Zushi
lmost all the breaks in the Zushi and Kamakura areas are within walking distance from the train lines and Route 134. During typhoon season, expect the reef breaks to be turning on some good waves, some surfable for beginners, but others for experts only, so check first. The water is a bit cleaner on this side of Enoshima, as there are fewer rivers, but it is also more sheltered, so waves are a bit smaller. Yuigahama is good for beginners, although it may be closed to surfers in July and August when the umi no ie (beach house) opens. Shichirigahama is a one-kilometer beach with sand and reef bottom. The reef is covered with kelp, so it’s fairly safe, although you might want to be careful at low tide and wear booties. The spots in front of First Kitchen and the parking lot are most crowded. The area takes anything from south, southeast, west and southwesterly swells. Best to talk to the locals for the best spots when typhoon swell is pumping, but they are notoriously unforgiving here, so obey the rules and definitely don’t drop in. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
56
Point Name Osaki Kabune Tamishi Yuigahama Venus Café-mae Inamura Ubagaya Henoji Shichirigahama Loa Minegahara Kojiki Kamakura High School-mae Keifu-mae Koshigoe Fishing Port Enoshima Harbor
Offshore Winds Level A N A N A NE B N / NE I A N / NW A N / NE I A N B N B N / NE B N / NE B N / NE B N / NE B N / NE B N / NE B N B NW
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Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
Bottom
Peak Season MAY – NOV MAY – NOV MAY – NOV ALL YEAR MAY – NOV MAY – NOV ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR MAY – NOV ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR
Facilities Kamakura
134
14 13 12 6 5 4 15 16 3 11 10 9 8 7 17
Zushi 2 1
Wetsuit DEC – APR: (you might need boots JAN and FEB) MAY – NOV:
SURF GUIDE
See our Surf Guide online at www.outdoorjapan.com/surf
Reef 5mm
ICON LEGEND
Sand
Rocks
River mouth
3mm
Semi-dry
Short john
Spring suit
Boardies
Bikinis
Boots
Gloves
Head cap
Toilet
Shower
Car park
B Beginner
I Intermediate
A Advanced
FUJISAWA
M
ost of the surf spots in Fujisawa are within walking distance from the station, making it popular with city surfers. It’s mostly sandbar beach breaks that work best on west to southwesterly swells. The main area is Kugenuma, with a big clubhouse, showers, café and beach volleyball courts. Longboarders flock to the mellow consistent waves and expect to be shoulder-to-shoulder with surfers, bodyboarders and swimmers on summer weekends, so be careful. Down the beach, Tsujido is a lesscrowded option, although a much farther walk from the station. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Point Name Offshore Winds Level I A Dairoku E B Suizokukan-mae NE B McDonald's-mae N / NE B Hikichigawa River Mouth N / NE B Skate Park-mae (Pool Garden-mae) N / NE B Hanchan-mae N / NE B Suehiro-mae N / NE B Shoyocho-mae N / NE B Tsujidou N / NE B Hashi-mae N / NE B 2nd Car Park N
Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
Bottom
Peak Season AUG – OCT AUG – OCT ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR
Fujisawa 134 11 10 9
8
7
6
5 4
3
2 1
Wetsuit
Facilities DEC – APR:
(you might need boots JAN and FEB) MAY – NOV:
CHIGASAKI
C
higasaki is home to Outdoor Japan’s new office. Lucky for us, the surf community is home to some decent beach breaks. There’s no shortage of surf shops or laid-back bars and cafés to kick back in after a day at the beach or hang out at the Umi no Ie at Southern Beach in July and August. It’s similar to Tsujido, but with a bit less swell. There is a bit of localism, but not to the extent of Kamakura or neighboring Hiratsuka. Chigasaki works best on south, southeast and southwesterly swells.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Point Name Kuso shita Chisan Chiipa Park T-bar Shirakaba Shop shita Kabocha
Offshore Winds Level I A N B N B N B N B N / NE B N B N B N
Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
Bottom
Peak Season ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR MAR – MAY MAR – MAY MAR – MAY
467 1
129
Fujisawa
1
Chigasaki 134 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Wetsuit
Facilities DEC – APR:
(you might need boots JAN and FEB) MAY – NOV:
WEST SHONAN
O
n the west side of the Sagami River, Hiratsuka, Oiso and Yoshihama get some consistent swell and, on a good southwest swell, can produce some epic waves. Hiratsuka can get crowded with some unforgiving locals, so a better bet might be heading down to Oiso where the beach is closer to the station anyway, and surf around the Hanamizu River. There are some other locals-only points near Hiratsuka, but access is tricky, and it can be dangerous if you don’t know what you are doing.
255
1
271 10
9
Oiso
8 7 6 5
Hiratsuka 1 4 3 2
Yoshihama 11
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Point Name Offshore Winds Level B Namakon N B Surf 90 N B Sodegaura N B Pool-shita N B Nijigahama N B Hanamizu-gawa River Mouth N / NE B Resthouse-mae N / NW B Iso Kou-mae (Iso High School) NW B Tunnel’s NW B Oiso NW B Genji NW B Yoshihama NW
Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
Bottom
Peak Season ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR
Wetsuit
Facilities DEC – APR:
(you might need boots JAN and FEB) MAY – NOV:
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57
SUMMER ACTIVITY GUIDE
Every season a new adventure
Shizuoka By Kuni Takanami
A warm climate and consistent surf in summer puts Shizuoka on Japan’s surf radar. Beginner-friendly beach breaks are abundant, while there are plenty of reefs and river mouths to keep more experienced surfers happy. Getting slotted inside the green room (surf speak for getting barrelled) is common during the peak swell season from June to September. Beautiful landscapes with ocha (green tea) plantations cover the coastline and there are numerous onsen with oceanfront views in which to relax after a day in the water.
SHIZUNAMI AREA
P
opular with beginners, Shizunami has a number of fun beach breaks within walking distance from the beachside campground. You will need a car to access Yoshida Kou up north and the southern breaks below Katahama. Most breaks prefer northwesterly winds and an easterly swell teamed with good sand banks.
SHIZUOKA Nakatashima Maisaka
Shizunami
242
150
Shizunami 8 7 6 9
69
1 2 4 5
3
10
Usami 1 2 3
Omaezaki
233 473
4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Point Name Yoshida Kou (Yoshida Port) Bros-mae Benjyo-mae (Toilet-mae) Megami-mae Teibou-yoko Katsumata Kawaguchi (Katsumata River Mouth) Kashima Katahama Sakai-kou (Sakai Port) Susuki
Offshore Winds Level B NW B NW B NW B NW B NW B I
NW
A
NW NW W W / NW
B B B B
Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
Bottom
Peak Season MAR – DEC MAR – DEC MAR – DEC MAR – DEC MAR – DEC
1 2 3 4 5
JAN – MAR
1 1 1 1
MAR – DEC ALL YEAR MAR – DEC JUN – NOV
2 2 2 2
3 3 3 3
4 4 4 4
5 5 5 5
Wetsuit
Facilities
(boots and gloves JAN and FEB)
DEC – APR: MAY – JUN OCT – NOV: JUL – SEP:
OMAEZAKI AREA
S
trong winds blow between October and April, making Omaezaki a popular windsurfing destination. The next few months give way to great surfing conditions at a variety of sand and reef breaks backed by scenic mountain views. Turtles breed on the shores and locals ask visitors to be wary of their eggs and always keep the beach clean. The local sashimi is incredible, and you won’t regret treating your friends with a bag of Omaezaki locally grown green tea as omiyage (souvenirs).
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
58
Point Name Offshore Winds Level I A Melon N / NE B Main N / NE B Saka-shita N I A Odaka N I A Butagoya-mae NE B Pension-mae NE B Secret NE B Sharkret NE B Kawaguchi (River Mouth) NE B Shark NE I A Sakukawa (Saku River Mouth) N / NE
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Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
Bottom
Peak Season MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC MAY – DEC
Omaezaki
241
11 150 10 9
8
357
7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Wetsuit
Facilities DEC – APR: MAY – JUN OCT – NOV: JUL – SEP:
(boots and gloves JAN and FEB)
SURF GUIDE
See our Surf Guide online at www.outdoorjapan.com/surf
Reef
Sand
5mm
ICON LEGEND
Rocks
River mouth
3mm
Semi-dry
Short john
Spring suit
Boardies
Bikinis
Boots
Gloves
Head cap
Toilet
Shower
Car park
B Beginner
I Intermediate
A Advanced
IWATA / NAKATASHIMA AREA
T
his long stretch of coastline is picturesque both in and out of the water, with good waves throughout the year except winter. A good mix of sand banks and river mouths, some you will have to explore on your own. Good eateries and onsen scatter the coast as well as a beachfront auto-campground, so take a couple days to enjoy this friendly area.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Point Name Dori Toyohama Nishihama Samejima Komaba Godo Godo Kawaguchi (Godo River Mouth) Nakatashima Ichijyo
Offshore Winds Level B N I A N I A N I A N / NW B N / NW I A N / NE
Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
Bottom
Peak Season JUN – NOV JUN – NOV JUN – NOV JUN – NOV JUN – NOV JUN – NOV
NE
I A
1 2 3 4 5
JUN – NOV
N / NE N / NE
I A
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
JUN – NOV JUN – NOV
B
Hamamatsu 1
257 9
150
1 8 7 6
2 1
3
4
5
Wetsuit
Facilities
(boots and gloves JAN and FEB)
DEC – APR: MAY – JUN OCT – NOV: JUL – SEP:
MAISAKA / SHIOMI AREA
G
ood beach breaks with consistent swell; the main Maisaka breaks are strictly local breaks and much respect must be given when surfing here. Don’t bother trying to learn at these breaks; instead make your way down to Okurato to enjoy fun waves free from heavy locals. All of these breaks like north winds and a good sand bank to perform best.
332
301
1
2 3 4 5 6
Point Name Maisaka Toudai-mae (Maisaka Lighthouse) Maisaka Main Arai Okurato Toilet-mae Kenzagai
Offshore Winds Level
Wave Consistency
Bottom
Peak Season
N
I A
1 2 3 4 5
AUG – NOV
N N N N N
I A
1 1 1 1 1
AUG – NOV AUG – NOV AUG – NOV AUG – NOV AUG – NOV
I A B B B
2 2 2 2 2
3 3 3 3 3
4 4 4 4 4
5 5 5 5 5
3
4
5
6
1
62
Maisaka 2
1
Wetsuit
Facilities
(boots and gloves JAN and FEB)
DEC – APR: MAY – JUN OCT – NOV: JUL – SEP:
IZU AREA
T
he east side of the Izu Peninsula is home to white sandy beaches and clear warm water. The mountainous interior which overlooks the coastline is full of the area's other popular attraction, onsen (hot springs). A nice mix of reefs and sand breaks provide a variety of waves for every surfer. Izu is also one of the largest producers of wasabi in Japan; be sure to try it with the fresh, local seafood for a kick!
1
Atami 1
Ito 414 3
Shimoda
6
136
8 11 10 9
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Point Name Usami Imaihama Kawazu Prince-mae Jinja-mae Chuo (middle) Resteru-mae Tatadohama Iritahama Main Ohama Main Toji
Offshore Winds Level I W / NW I NW B W B W B W B W B W B N B NW B NW A W / NW
Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
Bottom
Peak Season SEP – NOV OCT – FEB MAR – OCT MAR – SEP MAR – SEP MAR – SEP MAR – SEP ALL YEAR ALL YEAR AUG – MAR NOV – MAR
2
5
4
7
Wetsuit
Facilities DEC – APR:
(boots during the coldest months)
MAY – JUN OCT – NOV: JUL – SEP:
SUMMER
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59
SUMMER ACTIVITY GUIDE
Every season a new adventure SUMMER
BEER GARDENS
Fun, friendly and festive! Beat the heat and celebrate summer at one Japan’s outdoor beer gardens. Here are a few of our favorites, but find many more throughout Japan at our online guide at www.outdoorjapan.com/japan-summer-beer-gardens
Photos courtesy of Mt. Takao
TOKYO
YOKOHAMA (KANAGAWA)
FUKUOKA (KYUSHU)
Open: July 5 – Oct. 8, Weekdays: 15:00 – 21:00; Weekends (and Aug. 13-17): 13:00 – 21:00 Price: ¥3,300 / ¥3,000 for 2 hours of all you can eat and drink Note: Enjoy the cool breezes and great views of Tokyo and Yokohama. Time can be extended and group booking for parties available. Tel: 042-665-9943 Web: www.takaotozan.co.jp/beermnt/index.htm Location: 5 minutes by foot from Keio Takaozan-guchi Station (47 minutes from Shinjuku), then 6 minutes by cable car.
Open: May 15 – Sept. 23, 16:00 – 23:00 Price: Hawaiian BBQ and all you can drink (90 minutes) for ¥2,600. Tel: 045-412-3339 Web: www.alohatable.com/beergarden/ Location: West Exit of Yokohama Station on the More’s Department Store rooftop.
Open: May 14 – Sept. 30; Hours: 17:30 – 22:00 Price: ¥3,800 / ¥3,500 all you can eat and drink. Tel: 092-712-4650 Web: www.fukuoka-kokusaihall.co.jp/tenku.shtml Location: West Japan Shinbun Kaikan rooftop. Near Fukuoka Tenjin Station West Exit.
Mt. Takao Beer Mount
Forest Beer Garden
Open: May 22 – July 22 & Sept. 1 – 22, Weekdays: 17:00 – 22:00; Weekends and public holidays: 12:00 – 22:00; July 23 – Aug. 31, Weekdays: 14:00 – 22:00; Weekends and public holidays: 12:00 – 22:30 Price: ¥4,000 / ¥3,700 for 2 hours all you can eat and drink, but you can buy per drink as well. Tel: 03-5411-3715 Web: www.rkfs.co.jp/brand/beer_garden_detail.html Location: 5 minutes by foot from JR Shinanomachi Station or Kokuritsu-Kyogijo Station (Oedo Line).
BBQ & Beer Terrace 130 Days
Open: May 25 – Sept. 30, 16:00 – 23:00 Price: Call for details. Tel: 03-6273-2262 Note: Enjoy the BBQ from the stylish terrace. Female DJs spinning every Friday and Saturday night (June – August). Web: www.salt-inc.co.jp/index.php?action=shop&shop=shopdet ail&id=14 Location: Next to Shinjuku Station on the roof of Lumine East (Lumine Garden 9).
Aloha Table Hawaiian Beer Garden
NAGOYA (AICHI) Open: April 13 – Sept 16, Weekdays: 17:00 – 22:00, Weekends and public holidays: 12:00 – 22:00 Price: Adult - ¥3,800 for 2.5 hours all you can eat and drink. Tel: 052-561-2831 Web: www.mai-ami.jp/information/ Location: Dainagoya Building, in front of JR Nagoya Station.
OSAKA
Pool Side Beer Garden 2012 World Resort
Open: June 1 – Sept. 30, Monday – Friday: 17:30 – 21:00, Saturday: 17:00 – 21:00, Sunday and public holiday: 17:00 – 20:30 Price: ¥3,900 for 2 hours all you can eat and drink. Tel: 06-6872-9293 Web: www.hankyuhotel.com/hotel/senrihh/restaurant/ eaw9iexZo6/index.html Location: Senri Chuo Station South Exit, Senri Hankyu Hotel.
Open: May 11 – Sept. 9; Hours: 17:00 – 22:00 Price: ¥3,000 / ¥2,700 all you can eat and drink. Tel: 0120-44-2741 Web: hwww.eebeer.com/ Location: Hiroshima Mitsukoshi rooftop; 1 minute from Ebisucho Station.
OKAYAMA
Kurashiki Tenmaya Beer Garden
Open: May 18 – Sept. 15 Price: ¥3,500 /¥3,000 all you can eat and drink. Tel: 0120-217-034 Web: hwww.tenmaya.co.jp/kurashiki/pdf/beerbetu_kura.pdf Location: Tenmaya Kurashiki Branch rooftop, in front of JR Sanyo Honsen Kurashiki Station.
SHIKOKU
Go Go! Clement Beer Terrace
Kirin World
Open: May 8 – Sept. 23, Weekdays: 17:30 – 21:00; Weekends and public holidays: 17:00 – 20:30 Price: Adult - ¥3,300 all you can eat BBQ and drinks. Web: www.yaen.com/menu.php Location: On the roof of Shin Hankyu Building; 5 minutes from Hankyu Umeda Station and 3 minutes from JR Osaka Station.
Seaside Beer Terrace
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HIROSHIMA
Hiroshima Mitsukoshi Beer Garden
Beer Garden Miami
KOBE (HYOGO)
Aloha Table Hawaiian Beer Garden
Beer Garden TENKU World Festival
Open: June 28 – Sept. 10 (except Aug. 4), Weekdays: 18:00 – 21:30, Weekends and public holidays: 17:00 – 20:30 Price: All you can drink (advance ticket) ¥2,000 Tel: 078-325-8119 Web: www.kobe-orientalhotel.co.jp/beerterrace/index.html Location: Kobe Meriken Park Oriental Hotel 3F Sea Side Terrace; 15 minutes from JR Hankyu Motomachi Station, 8 minutes by foot from Minato Motomachi Station (Kaigan Subway Line).
SPRING
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Open: May 24 – Aug. 31; Hours: 17:30 – 21:00 Price: ¥4,000 all you can eat and drink (limit 2 hours when crowded) Tel: 087-811-1117 Web: hwww.jrclement.co.jp/event/cat18/20125242012831.html Location: JR Hotel Clement Takamatsu 5F Beer Terrace, In front of JR Takamatsu Station.
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■ HOKKAIDO
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■ AOMORI Japow Tours is a rider driven guide company with a unique approach to off trail & backcountry snowboarding in the Hakkoda Mountains.
八甲田山
■ HOKKAIDO
www.htholidays.com
Niseko’s Finest
■ HOKKAIDO
■ NAGANO
Japan Adventures inaka home
Your Japan Hiking Specialists
[DOT] W I Nof N E R
GREEN
www.japan-adventures.com SPRING
2 0 1 2
AWARDS www.GreenDotAwards.com
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■ HOKKAIDO ■ TOHOKU ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAI
■ IWATE
■ NAGANO
A space to relax and be at one with nature!
Summer HAKUBA IN
“Naka no makiba” rated 5th the most beautiful night sky in Japan. 5 min from Hotel APPI Grand
- Exclusive range of luxury cabins, chalets and apartments - Great range of summer activitives - Car and bike rentals arranged
y Heat Escape the Cit www.hakubaresort.com Website : http://www.appi.co.jp Contact : appi_english@ihr.co.jp ■ NAGANO
TEL (81) 0261 72 6663 info@hakubaresort.com
Hakuba Office :
■ NAGANO
5 t ar erson per nig00 Ster p ht ) (p
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9
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85
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■ NAGANO
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■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OUTSIDE JAPAN ■ GEAR & SERVICES
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Lifestyle Directory ■ NAGANO
Stay and Play in beautiful Norikura Kogen with an adventure package at NORTHSTAR and the Halenoa Lodge. We offer a full lineup of Green Season Outdoor Fun and if your not so adventurous then you can still enjoy beautiful Norikura Kogen with a dip in one of the Onsens and some local Soba. GUIDED FUN • Beginner MTB Lessons with rentals • Guided MTB Tours • River Hiking UNGUIDED FUN • Road Biking to the top of Mt. Norikura • Trail Running / Hiking • Local Onsen (Hotsping) • Day trips to Mt. Norikura, Kamikochi, Matsumoto City & Takayama City
www.ridenorthstar.com
Summer ¥8,500 Winter ¥9,500 (per person with meals)
GREEN SEASON
NORTHSTAR outdoor adventures 4306 Azumi, Matsumoto-shi Nagano-ken Ph: 0263.93.1688
Long stay packages also available
■ NIIGATA
■ NAGANO
■ NAGANO
■ KANTO
SPRING
2 0 1 2
63
OJ CLASSIFIEDS
■ HOKKAIDO ■ TOHOKU ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAI
■ GUNMA
■ GUNMA
■ GUNMA
■ SHIZUOKA
自然の中で遊ぼう！
GET WET, GET HAPPY!
Refresh your Mind, Body & Soul
関東から一番近い ラフティングスポット富士川 Fuji River, The closest rafting spot to Tokyo
Refreshing outdoor adventure experiences under 2 hours from Tokyo!
Whitewater rafting, canyoning, adventure combos..... 0278-72-2811 www.canyons.jp
NATURAL ACTION ★ TEL: 0544-65-1123 ¦ info@naturalaction.co.jp http://www.naturalaction.co.jp
■ SHIZUOKA
■ YAMANASHI
IZU SHIMODA
International License for SURF LESSON
www.real-surf.com
64
SUMMER
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Lifestyle Directory ■ TOKYO
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PPYRA A H
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SHIKO FT
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Shichirigahama, Kamakura
www.easysurf.jp Phone: 0467-55-5702 ■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU
nan e in Sho ance e t a n q u r F n r P e S o u t hu i s i n e , e c n e C i E x p e rg u a g e , Lan
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res. ntu ve Ad
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SUMMER
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■ MICRONESIA
■ MICRONESIA
■ MICRONESIA
■ BALI 癒しの空間で... 波を心いくまで満喫...
サーフィンガイド サーフィンコーチ ラグジャリーな宿泊施設
Surf Guiding Surf Coaching Luxury Accommodation
Feel at home... Enjoy the ride... ■ NEPAL
www.thechillhouse.com
■ THAILAND
KOH LANTA KRABI THAILAND
email: reservation@pimalai.com
www.pimalai.com
Discover Nature, Discover Yourself. ■ TAIWAN
■ GEAR & SERVICES
■ GEAR & SERVICES
Office Network & Computer Support Database Development Website Development VoIP Telephone Systems Online Marketing www.showcase-central.info www.emissary.co.jp | 03-3365-1978 66
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