Outdoor Japan TRAVELER - Issue 48 - Summer 2013

SUMM E I S S U ER 2 0 1 3 48

R E T A W IF RE

歌山 和 ぶ で遊 火と水

&

Hot Festivals

a m a y a k a W n i g n i t f a R l o o C d an

Paddling Okinawa’s Last Frontier 漕いで知る西表島の魅力

Kitakama

キタカマ

OUT S

Down Under in Guam IS

グアムの海底探索

NATURE

Summer Spotlights ACTION

■

ADVENTURE

■

TRAVEL

■

OUTDOORS

E ID

GO

ISSUE 48 - SUMMER 2013

CONTENTS

10 14 16 18

Summer Spotlights

サマー・スポットライト

Cover photo by Lee Dobson

Ultra Trail Mt. Fuji 2013

By Pauline Kitamura

OUTDOOR JAPAN TRAVELER

Go Deep into Nepal at the Mustang Trail Race

By Richard Bull

Q&A: Team East Wind's Masato Tanaka

Editor William Ross Business Development Director Luke McDonald

キタカマ ̶ 槍ヶ岳北鎌尾根ルート登頂記 ̶

By CJW

42

The Mad Men of Tenpukutai

48

Down Under in Guam

火と水で遊ぶ和歌山

転覆隊という名の、フツーじゃないサラリーマンたち

By Bill Ross

Paddling Okinawa’s Last Frontier 漕いで知る西表島の魅力

25

On the Run

By Robert Self

Surviving the Summer Funk

23

Japan Angler

www.facebook/japantraveler

Dorado Dreaming

www.youtube.com/outdoorjapan

www.twitter.com/outdoorjapan

By Abdel Ibrahim

The Local Brew

By Bryan Harrell

Loco Beer

Cycling Japan

©2013 OUTDOOR JAPAN INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION IS PROHIBITED. VIEWS EXPRESSED HEREIN ARE NOT NECESSARILY THOSE OF OUTDOOR JAPAN. Printed in Japan.

By Takashi Niwa

Hokkaido Summer Touring 4 From the Editor Contributors, Columnists & Cohorts

8 Upcoming Events

Summer Spotlights, Market Watch

Editorial: editor@outdoorjapan.com Advertising: ads@outdoorjapan.com Subscriptions: subscribe@outdoorjapan.com Comments: comments@outdoorjapan.com OJ Creative: creative@outdoorjapan.com

By Tomoko Okazaki

By Craig Yamashita

Contact Information: Outdoor Japan Inc. 6-6-55 Higashi Kaigan Minami, Chigasaki-shi, Kanagawa 253-0054 Tel: (0467) 81-3212 Fax: (0467) 81-3213

Story & photos by Tim Rock

24

Translation Kumiko Kurosaki, Junco Mitsui, Tomoko Okazaki

〒253-0054 神奈川県茅ヶ崎市東海岸南 6-6-55

グアムの海底探索

Hiro & Jiro

22

Illustration Eureka!

By Lee Dobson

Inside Out

Contributing Editors Wayne Graczyk, Shigeo Morishita, Eri Nishikawa Administration & Distribution Rika Cook

34

COLUMNS

6

Art Director Yuki Masuko

Kitakama

Fire & Water

56

Publisher Outdoor Japan Inc. Editor-in-Chief Gardner Robinson

FEATURES

26

Published Seasonally

62 OJ Classifieds

Lifestyle Directory

Travel. Make deep turns. Ride your bike.Take a bath. Ride a wave.Take a walk. Climb something. Explore.

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3

FROM THE EDITOR

Contributors, Columnists and Cohorts

Gardner Robinson, Editor-in-Chief

A

ction and adventure travel has always been a focus of Outdoor Japan and our Summer Issue is jampacked with it. We start on one of Japan’s most classic mountains, Yarigatake. Tens of thousands of people climb to the peak each year, but only a handful take on Kitakama Ridge. The danger on this route is real. People die there.

This level of risk and the fortitude it takes to overcome physical and mental challenges is what attracts some climbers to these climbs. Our contributor CJW takes us along for a first-hand look.

There are rivers in Japan from Hokkaido to Shikoku that are great for white water sports; if you have not gone rafting in Japan, you are missing out on some refreshing fun. Many flow strongest in spring, but there’s no better way to beat the summer heat than floating on a lazy river or through some exciting rapids. There are also some traditionally Japanese ways to navigate the white water, which you’ll discover in Lee Dobson’s story, “Fire & Water.”

Ocean athlete Tomoko Okazaki has spent her life chasing waves. The Kanagawa native now calls Maui home, but she returns to Japan often for various ocean adventures. Okinawa’s Iriomote Island is usually on her itinerary, and she tells us what spell the place has on her, and why a stand-up paddleboard is her tool of choice for exploring the untamed island.

Japanese salary men do not have a reputation as great adventurers, unless you count marathon working hours and extreme drinking sessions. The 15 members of

Tenpukutai proudly claim to be part of the “least-skilled, yet most extreme” outdoor club in Japan. These big boys spend their days like their gray-suited brethren. Yet on weekends, the “Mad Men of Tenpukutai” go on some seriously whacky adventures.

Trail running and, to a lesser extent, adventure racing, have spread around the world with participants always on the lookout for new challenges and exciting destinations where they can enjoy their sport.

Pauline Kitamura reports from the Ultra-Trail Mt. Fuji, and then we follow some Japanese adventurers as they go to two of the most naturally stunning places on earth: the untouched and diverse Chilean Patagonia and the dry, extreme beauty of the Mustang Region of Nepal.

I was in Kathmandu a number of years back and was introduced to David Allardice by our mutual friend Pat O’Keeffe. A few minutes later, we were talking over beers, and David had a short adventure planned for rafting the Bhote Kosi and a bungy/bridge swing combo at The Last Resort. It didn’t take long to get a contact buzz off his infatigable spirit. It was with sadness to hear of his passing (In Memorium, Page 17).

The world lost another adventurer and all-around great guy named David recently. My childhood friend, Dave Reinhart, died while climbing Mt. Aconcagua in Argentina. Both men shared a contagious passion for living and will be missed.

Every season is a new adventure in Japan — and there are some great adventures awaiting you this summer. Get out there!

日

るかもしれないが、それは、彼らの長時間労働と、そのあと

本におけるアウトドア・アドベンチャーと日本の美し

さをご紹介するのが、ウェブサイトをふくめた私たち

に深夜までつづくお酒と付き合いをカウントしなければの話

のミッションなわけだが、今号もそのミッションにのっとった

である。 「転覆隊」は、自称「日本でいちばんヘタクソで過

様々な情報をお届けすることができたと思う。 最初にご紹介するのは、日本有数の山として知られる 槍ヶ岳。毎年何千人という登山者が目指すこの山である

CJW

Bill Ross

Lee Dobson

リー・ドブソン

Tim Rock

ビル・ロス

ティム・ロック

Tomoko Okazaki

Craig Yamashita

Robert Self

Takashi Niwa

チャーを繰り広げている。 トレイルランニング、そして程度の差はあるがアドベン チャーレースもふくめると、世界中でこのスポーツを楽しむ

事故も多いことで知られるが、その危険と精神的忍耐力を

人口は増えており、そして一度はまると、だれもがさらなる挑

試すがために人々はこの山を登る。ライター CJWのレポー

戦と新たな場所を求めるようになる。まずは最近開催された

トで日本一難しいといわれるこの北鎌の魅力を感じていた

ウルトラトレイル・マウントフジのレポートを。続いて、日本

だければと思う。

人冒険家による、世界でもっともすばらしいふたつの場所、

岡崎 友子

クレイグ・山下

多様な自然が残るチリのパタゴニア、そしてネパールのムス タンの息をのむような美しさをご堪能いただきたい。

をやっているあなたは、じつは見逃していることがあるかも

何年も前のことだが、パット・オキーフを介してデビッド・

しれない。日本の川の流れは春にいちばん強くなるのだ

アラーディスを紹介されたとき、ぼくはカトマンズにいた。

が、夏の川遊びほど暑さを忘れさせてくれるものはないは

数分後にはビール片手にボテコシ川のラフティングとラス

ずだ。川の流れを楽しむ日本伝統の方法について知りた

トリゾートでのバンジージャンプの計画を立てていたわけだ

ければ、リー・ドブソンによる、 「 Fire & Water 」を読んでほ

が、彼のいきいきとしたスピリットにすぐにうちとけることが

ロバート・セルフ

丹羽 隆志

できた。そんな彼が天国へ召されたことを聞きいたときは大

しい。 おつぎは風を追い求めて生きている岡崎友子による記

きなショックを受けたが、もう一人、すばらしい冒険家であ

事だ。神奈川県出身、風を求めて彼女がたどり着いたの

り、幼馴染みでもあるデビッド・ラインハートが、アルゼン

はマウイ島だった。さまざまなイベントや終わらぬ冒険のた

チンのアコンカグアを登山中にこの世を去ってしまったの

めに、日本へもたびたび帰国する彼女の旅程に含まれる

もひじょうに残念だ。生きることへの情熱、そして、人生と

場所のひとつが西表島である。この島が彼女を魅了して

いう冒険そのものを精いっぱい生きることの大切さを教えて

やまない理由、そしてこの島にはなぜスタンドアップパドル

くれた二人であった。

が適しているのかを紹介してくれる。 日本のサラリーマンはアドベンチャーとは無縁に思われ

新しい季節は新しい冒険のはじまり。みなさま、素敵な 夏を！

Abdel Ibrahim

アブデル・イブラヒム

editor@outdoorjapan.com 4

Richard Bull

リチャード・ブル

激なアウトドアクラブ」。ウィークデイはグレーのスーツに身

握りである。北鎌はひじょうに危険なコースで、死亡遭難

るすばらしい川がいたるところにある。日本でラフティング

ポーリーン 北村

をつつむ彼らも、週末となれば、そうとういかれたアドベン

が、北鎌尾根を攻めることが許される登山者はほんのひと

さて、北海道から四国まで、日本にはスポーツを楽しめ

Pauline Kitamura

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Bryan Harrell

ブライアン・ハレル

By Craig Yamashita Illustration by Eureka!

IN: BOARD TO TEARS

THE BOYS TRY OUT THE LATEST THING describe to me again the wonderful feeling of freedom and solitude that I'll experience....

no, i said that's what our wives feel while we're out here...

ザ・サーファーズ・ジャーナルのバックナンバーを今すぐGETしよう ！

各巻 ¥1,995（税込） 購入は

www.surfersjournal.jp のバックナンバーから

6

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7

01 3 2 R ME E 48 M SU SSU I

RACES & EVENTS

SUMMER

BEER GARDENS NAGOYA Beer Garden Miami

Open: June 22 – Oct. 6, Weekdays: 15:00 – 21:00; Weekends: 14:30 – 21:00 Price: ¥3,500 / ¥3,300 for 2 hours all you can eat and drink Note: Enjoy the cool breezes and great views of Tokyo and Yokohama. Time can be extended and group booking for parties available.

Location: 5 minutes by foot from Keio Takaozan-guchi Tel: 042-665-9943 Web: www.takaotozan.co.jp/takaotozan_eng1/ beermnt/

Open: May 17 – Sept 22, Weekdays: 16:00 – 23:00, Weekends and public holidays: 11:00 – 23:00 Price: Adult - ¥3,900 for 2.5 hours all you can eat and drink.

Location: Dainagoya Building, in front of JR Nagoya Station Tel: 052-238-0051 Web: www.mai-ami.jp

YOKOHAMA Aloha Table Hawaiian Beer Garden Open: May 21 – Sept. 25, 16:00 – 23:00 Price: Hawaiian BBQ set ¥2,600, all you can drink (90 minutes) for ¥1,400～.

Tel: 045-412-3339 Location: West Exit of Yokohama Station on the More’s Department Store rooftop.

Web: www.yokohama-mores-beergarden.com/

MARKET WATCH

By Joan Bailey

A Taste for Adventure:

J

Japan Farmer's Markets

apan may be small, but it's big on flavor.

Farmers make the most of limited growing space by cultivating fruits and vegetables perfectly suited to local climates and tastes to then craft regional specialties such as Akita's iburigakko (smoked daikon pickle) or Nagano's nozawana (pickled turnip leaf).

Asaichi (morning markets) or western-style farmers markets, literally, give visitors a taste of a place. Perhaps most importantly, the markets are an opportunity to meet the producer and share the pleasure of their handiwork. Whether you've been in Japan for 20 minutes or 20 years, it's an adventure that shouldn't be missed.

8

KOBE

TOKYO Mt. Takao Beer Mount

OSAKA Pool Side Beer Garden 2013 GARNIVAL REZORT Open: June 1 – Sept. 30, Monday – Friday: 17:30 – 21:00, Saturday: 17:00 – 21:00, Sunday and public holiday: 17:00 – 20:30 Price: ¥3,900 for 2 hours all you can eat and drink.

Location: Senri Chuo Station South Exit, Senri Hankyu Hotel.

Tel: 06-6871-2416 Web: www.hankyu-hotel.com/hotel/senrihh/other/beer/ index.html

Sapporo Farmer's Market

Hokkaido Shrine, Maruyama Park, Sapporo Every second Sunday, June to September 6:30 a.m. to 11 a.m.

A small but comprehensive market, the Sapporo Farmer’s Market is located inside the grounds of Hokkaido Shrine. Nearly 30 regional vendors offer organically and conventionally grown vegetables and fruits, while purveyors of pickles, jams and honey set out a tantalizing spread of their own. Fiber and ceramic artists add their creations to the mix, so the market's nearly 1,000 monthly visitors always find something wonderful to take home.

United Nations University Farmer's Market

Shibuya, Tokyo Every Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

One of Tokyo's best markets, the United Nations University Farmer's Market, boasts 60 regular vendors who greet roughly 10,000 daily visitors during peak seasons with the best from their fields and kitchens. Vegetables,

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Seaside Beer Terrace Open: June 27 – Sept. 10 (except Aug. 3), Weekdays: 18:00 – 21:30, Weekends and public holidays: 17:00 – 20:30 Price: All you can drink (advance ticket) ¥2,000 Location: Kobe Meriken Park Oriental Hotel 3F Sea Side Terrace; 15 minutes from JR Hankyu Motomachi Station, 8 minutes from Minato Motomachi Station.

Tel: 078-325-8119 Web: www.kobe-orientalhotel.co.jp/beerterrace/

FUKUOKA Beer Garden TENKU Open: May 13 – Sept. 30; Hours: 17:30 – 22:00 Price: ¥3,800 / ¥3,500 all you can eat and drink.

Location: Tenjin, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka Tel: 092-712-4650 Web: www.fukuoka-kokusaihall.co.jp/tenku.shtml

fruits, pickles, jams, soaps, tea, handmade goods, fresh flowers, rice, pastries and juice can all be found under the signature white awnings.

Food trucks ring the market, and live music is a regular feature. A monthly Night Market centers around a particular food theme, with plenty of scrumptious samples and more live music. After the foody fun, bicycle enthusiasts can suit up for Night Pedal Cruise around the city.

Nara Organic Farmer's Market Nara Station, Nara Last Sunday of each month 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Set in the plaza in front of Nara Station, this monthly market's 40 vendors offer an excellent selection of teas, rice, baked goods, pickles, traditional and modern varieties of vegetables and fruits, along with honey, jam and handcrafted items. (One honey vendor fashions a meringue-like candy that requires a double purchase: one to keep and one to give away.)

Dig into a spicy curry or flavorful noodle dish, concocted by one of the food vendors, while settled on a bench listening to an excellent local band.

SPOTLIGHTS

FIREWORKS

MUSIC FESTIVALS

July 27

July 27-29

Sumida River Fireworks Dating back to the Edo Period, this is Tokyo’s largest (in number) hanabi with more than 20,000 fireworks. Nearly 100,000 people come to enjoy the grand display.

Location: Along the Sumida River near Asakusa Station

Fuji Rock Festival ‘12 This three-day music festival in Niigata’s lush mountains is simply Asia’s top music festival. Dedicated Fujirockers make the pilgrimage rain or shine so see top international and homegrown artists.

Location: Naeba, Niigata Details: www.fujirockfestival.com

Aug. 10 Tokyo Bay Fireworks The Tokyo Bay Fireworks feature about 12,000 fireworks launched from barges in the bay. Harumi Park, a 15-minute walk from Toyosu Station, is a great place to watch as well as the Odaiba area. Note the Rainbow Bridge is closed to pedestrians during the festivities.

Location: Toyosu Station and Odaiba

Aug. 23-25 Earth Celebration Each summer, the sleepy Sado Island awakens to the rhythmic sounds of the Earth Celebration. Kodo, Sado Island’s internationally acclaimed percussion group, hosts this world music festival.

Location: Sado Island, Niigata Details: www.kodo.or.jp

Inakadate Tanbo Art Each summer villagers in the small village of Inakadate, Aomori Prefecture, create artistic images in the tanbo (rice fields). The use of different kinds and colors of rice create a threedimensional affect and the dramatic scenes attracting scores of visitors each summer. The best viewing is in July and August. From Hirosaki, take the Konan Tetsudo Line to Inakadate Station (24 minutes). There are no places to stay in Inakadate, so visitors are advised to book accommodation in Hirosaki or other nearby areas.

OUTDOOR JAPAN ONLINE’S

RACE & EVENTS CALENDAR Summer is loaded with music festivals, exciting fireworks, festive beer gardens and outdoor events. Visit our Race & Event Calendar for more information at www.outdoorjapan.com/race

Mountain Music Festival & Adventure Weekend September 7, 2013 FEATURING

At Minakami at Canyons Alpine Lodge

SHAPESHIFTER SOUND SYSTEM (NZ)

CH SHAP ECK OUT ES NEW HIFTER’S ALBU M

“DELT A”

< FUN TOURS & ACTIVITIES>

White Water Rafting, Canyoning, Bungy Jumping, Paragliding, Mountain Biking, Hiking, Hot Springs and more!

Music, Entertainment, Bus Tours and Ticket Information at

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WWW.OUTDOORJAPAN.COM/SUMMERSPLASH

9

SUMMER SURF GUIDE

Ibaraki

By Kuni Takanami

Just north of Chiba, Ibaraki faces the open ocean, thus receiving good swell and boasting many year-round surf spots. The warm water current stops in the South Chiba area, meaning the water temperature in Ibaraki is generally much colder than the rest of Kanto. As a result, winter waves are reasonably uncrowded despite easy highway access from Tokyo. The exposed location does mean the area cops a lot of wind and, for best conditions, you want to be out there early morning or late afternoon, although the winds die down in winter.

NORTH IBARAKI Futatsujima Takahagi Kawajiri Kawarago

IBARAKI

Aigaura Oarai Onuki Topsanteshita Kashima Hasaki

N

orth Ibaraki’s long, straight stretch of coastline from Futatsujima to the powerful breaks at Oarai is cold in winter, requiring even the keenest surfer to wear a spring suit through summer. If you don’t mind the chill, you are in for a real treat, with consistent sand and reef breaks although, because it is so open, it is easily affected by wind. Northerly and northeasterly swells are best, but be careful, as the area is known to have strong currents. Locals demand respect, especially at Kawarago, so take care, and everyone can enjoy the waves.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

Point Name Futatsujima Takahagi Ibuki Beach Ishi Beach Kawajiri Haka-shita Hotel-shita Hitachi Station Kawarago Hitachi Lighthouse Hitachinaka Beach Ajigaura Oarai Onuki Tsurukame Resort Hotel-mae Umi-no-ko

Offshore Winds Level B NW A W / NW B W B W A W / NW I A W I A W / NW B W / NW B W / SW A W B W B SW I A W B W / SW B W / NW B W / NW B W / NW

Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Bottom

Peak Season AUG – NOV OCT – NOV OCT – DEC ALL YEAR OCT – DEC OCT – NOV OCT – NOV OCT – NOV OCT – NOV OCT – NOV SEP – NOV SEP – NOV FEB – APR FEB – NOV ALL YEAR ALL YEAR ALL YEAR

Facilities

Futatsujima

1

6

461 Takahagi

349

2 3 4 5

Kawajiri

6 7 8

Hitachi Kawarago

9 10

Hitachinaka

6

11

245 Ajigaura

12

13

Oarai

17

14 15 16

Wetsuit DEC – MAY: JAN – FEB: MAY – NOV:

KASHIMA AND HASAKI

T

he breaks stretching along the coastline from Kashima to Hasaki are consistent and pack a good punch when the swell hits. The big windmills along the coast indicate the area gets a lot of wind, so be sure to check the weather before you go so you can time your surf just right.

With the right wind and northeasterly or southeasterly swells, you are in for some great waves.

1

2

Kashima 51

3 4 5

356

6 124

7 8 9

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

10

Point Name Cosmo Tosante-shita Akashi Haka-shita Hirai Hasaki Seaside Park Shari Beach Hasaki Kanekyu Hasaki Main Beach

Offshore Winds Level B W / SW B W / SW B SW B SW B SW B W / SW B W / SW B SW B SW

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Wave Consistency 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Bottom

Peak Season JUN – SEP JUN – SEP JUN – SEP JUN – SEP JUN – SEP MAY – OCT MAY – OCT MAY – OCT MAY – OCT

Wetsuit

Facilities DEC – MAY: JAN – FEB: JUN – NOV:

SUMMER SPOTLIGHTS The Hokkaido Powder Belt is the New Summer Destination!

The Hokkaido Powder Belt lies in the heart of beautiful central Hokkaido. The region is home to the spectacular mountains of Furano, Tomamu and Daisetsuzan National Park. You can enjoy cycling through beautiful flowered fields and lavender farms, or trekking in Daisetsuzan National Park, with its active volcano Mt. Asahidake (the highest mountain in Hokkaido). Mt. Tokachidake is one of Japan’s hyakumeizan (100 famous mountains) and is a beautiful hike.

Soak in natural hot springs or try a variety of outdoor activities such as white water rafting, fly fishing, trail running and mountain biking, and be sure to sample fresh local Hokkaido cuisine.

The Hokkaido Powder Belt has something for everyone in summer; find out more on the Web site or Facebook page.

Furano Tourism Association

Tel: (0167) 23-3388 Web: www.furanotourism.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/HokkaidoPowderBelt

Bag Jump Free Drop and Niseko Hanazono Hill Climb Are you scared of heights? This summer is the time to overcome your fear with Japan’s first Free Drop Bag Jump at Hanazono in Niseko. Experience a few seconds of free-fall, as you throw yourself from the eight- or 12-meter platforms and land softly in the massive air-filled bag jump.

Have a blast as you face your fear head on. From Aug. 3 to 5, more than 600 riders are expected to compete in one of Hokkaido’s fastest growing road cycling events. Nihon Harmony Resorts K.K. and Pacific Century Premium Developments are once again the main sponsors of the 4th Niseko Hanazono Hill Climb.

The 15.5-kilometer event will be held in conjunction with Kutchan’s Potato Festival (jagamatsuri) with a parade-start from the center of town. For more information and entry details, visit www.nisekohillclimb.com.

Hanazono Niseko

Tel: (0136) 21-6655 Web: www.hanazononiseko.com/en/

Alpine Charm Awaits at Kimamaya This summer Kimamaya will open its doors for the second time. Niseko may be famed for its deep powder snow, but the summer months offer a tempting alternative. With the snow melted, Hokkaido’s agricultural reputation shines through with rolling green fields generating mountains of fresh produce to be enjoyed in local restaurants or even on a BBQ in the Kimamaya garden.

The variety of summer activities certainly gives skiing a run for its money. Mountain biking, golf, hiking, rafting and fishing are just some of the activities on offer. A summer stay promises to open your eyes to a whole different side to the mountain and Kimamaya’s famous hospitality. Contact us for exclusive summer packages and reservations.

Kimamaya Boutique Hotel

Tel: (0136) 23-2603 E-mail: reservations@kimamaya.com Web: www.kimamaya.com

Amazing Hokkaido with Akazora's ‘First Summer Sale’ The weather is cooler, the landscape is breathtaking and the food is renowned for its quality.

This summer Akazora Apartments in Niseko are having a special “First Summer Sale” so you can come up and see what the locals have known for a years – Hokkaido’s summer is unbeatable.

Akazora Apartments have studio units almost as cheap as a hostel and two-bedroom apartments with stunning views of Mt. Yotei for the price of a business hotel. With this great summer savings you’ll be able to explore the region, enjoy all the fun holiday activities and not worry about spending too much on accommodation. Contact Akazora (Midori no Ki) to plan your next summer stay in Niseko.

Midori no Ki

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Tel: (0136) 55-5122 E-mail: bookings@midorinoki.com Web: www.akazora.com

11

Ura-Bandai is cool! Visit Japan’s Lake District Come stay, explore and trek around beautiful Grandeco Resort. Surrounded by majestic mountains and lakes, this region is a perfect retreat for summer. Ride the gondola that takes you to 1,390 meters; from the summit there is a 6-km. hiking trail all the way down to scenic Lake Hibara. The trails pass through marshlands, and it and takes about two and a half hours. You can refresh yourself in natural springs and even enjoy picturesque waterfalls along different trails.

There are many outdoor activities for the whole family; enjoy cruising in a canoe on Lake Onogawa, relax in the outdoor natural onsen baths or swim some laps in the hotel pool. Grandeco Hotel is the only holiday resort in the region and the ideal place to experience Japan’s beautiful outdoor environment.

Tokyu Resort Service Grandeco Resort

Tel: (0241) 32-2530 E-mail: deco@resortservice.co.jp Web: www.grandeco.com

Beat the heat in the Northern Japan Alps Hakuba is the gateway to the Northern Alps. The area in northern Nagano features massive alpine peaks, a multitude of crystal clear lakes and rivers and lush, cool forests, perfect for a summer escape. Since 2000, Evergreen Outdoor Center has been instrumental in developing outdoor recreation activities, ecology tours and mountain-safety courses in Japan.

Programs run year-’round, and Evergreen’s staff and internationally licensed guides are passionate about their work. They are committed to providing safe, satisfying and sustainable tours and can lead you along a path of adventure, personal challenge, teamwork and love for the outdoors. Talk to them about creating a memorable Japan Alps getaway for you, your family or group this summer.

Evergreen Outdoor Center

Tel: (0261) 72-5150 E-mail: tours@evergreen-outdoors.com Web: www.evergreen-hakuba.com

Northern Nagano is Heaven for Cyclists There is some great news for cycling enthusiasts in Japan. The folks at Nozawa Hospitality have invested in a fleet of good quality road bikes, perfect for exploring the mountains in the Shinshu Region. Throw your helmet and pedals into a weekend bag (or send up your bike) and hop on the train (or plane) and head to Nozawa. It’s an easy and beautiful train ride from Tokyo to Nozawa Onsen. The traditional village is nestled in the mountains with plenty of fresh air and nice views.

Your hosts can help with cycling itineraries and even provide a “sag wagon.” Itineraries range from laid-back spins through the valley to multi-day rides with 2,000 meters of climbing.

Accommodation packages available at Address Nozawa, a Japanese-Western hotel, or Kawamotoya, a traditional ryokan with its stunning views and a great restaurant. Both have onsen.

K.K. Nozawa Hospitality

Tel: Japan: (0269) 67-0360 | Singapore: +65-6412-0128 E-mail: info@cyclingnozawa.com Web: www.cyclingnozawa.com

As Japan Swelters, Escape to Tenjin Lodge Tenjin Lodge is a family run mountain lodge situated at altitude, in the Joetsu National Park, just 170 kilometers from Tokyo and about two hours by train. Dozens of hiking trails start at the front door and you can see crystal clear swimming holes from the balcony of your room as the Yubiso River bubbles past below.

Guests receive discounted rafting, canyoning, bungy jumping, canoeing and mountain biking tours, just a few of the organized activities available in Minakami, Japan’s premier summer adventure and outdoor destination. As the day draws to a close enjoy one of Tenjin’s famous BBQs, complete with salads, exotic beers and excellent wines, while taking in the beauty of the surrounding mountains.

TENJIN LODGE

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Tel: (0278) 25-3540 E-mail: info@tenjinlodge.com Web: www.tenjinlodge.com

SUMMER SPOTLIGHTS Free Fall into Summer at Bungy Japan’s New Location In addition to its long-running Minakami location, Bungy Japan will open a second bungy site this summer in the Sarugakyo Gorge in Gunma. The bungy bridge sits high above the blue waters of the Yujimi River surrounded by a lush forest. It’s the perfect setting for some refreshing outdoor adventure.

At 62 meters, this will be Japan’s highest bungy jump. The new site will also introduce Japan’s first winch recovery system where jumpers are whizzed back up to the platform immediately after jumping. Spaces are limited and reservations are a must; priority is given to jumpers going for the Daily Double (Minakami + Sarugakyo Package). If bungy jumping is on your bucket list, Bungy Japan is the place to do it. Visit the Web site for details.

Bungy Japan

Tel: (0278) 72-8133 E-mail: blake@bungyjapan.com Web: www.bungyjapan.com

Refreshing Summer Canyoning Canyoning is the dynamic sport of negotiating your way down a canyon. It involves a variety of techniques, including sliding, jumping and rappelling down waterfalls, swimming through pools, walking and sometimes a bit of basic climbing. About 80 percent of the time is spent in the water.

Japan, with its mountainous geography and abundance of water, has a large number of worldclass canyons. It’s an amazing natural playground for canyoners with courses ranging from easy kids- courses to full-on, hardcore canyoning for repeaters. There’s truly something for everyone.

Canyons runs more than 16 canyoning courses around Japan, with the majority located less than two hours from Tokyo. If you are in need of a break from your daily slog and want to escape the heat, you can’t beat this refreshing adventure.

Canyons

Tel: (0278) 72-2815 E-mail: english@canyons.jp Web: www.canyons.jp

White Water & MTB Tours in the Mt. Fuji Region Natural Action is located at the foot of Mt. Fuji, where they have been conducting outdoor tours in harmony with nature since 1998. Come get your feet wet and enjoy an exciting white water rafting tour on the Fuji River. This river has some of the best rapids in Japan. Bring your kids along too; they will love the kids’ rafting tours.

They also specialize in half-day or full-day MTB tours. Cool off while riding through Asagiri Park, with beautiful summer views of Mt. Fuji, listed as a World Heritage site, in the background.

After your tour, relax in the Natural Action Café, browse through their general store where they carefully select environmentally aware outdoor brands such as Patagonia and other cool gear.

Visit their Web site or contact Natural Action directly for further information.

NATURAL ACTION

Tel: (0544) 65-1123 E-mail: info@naturalaction.co.jp Web: www.naturalaction.co.jp

Summer Diving Adventures in Okinawa Whether you are a diving newbie or an experienced dive master, Okinawa is the place to be this summer to enjoy Japan’s best underwater beauty. Seasir has packages and courses for everyone as well. The Leisure Diving Package is for certified divers and includes full equipment and two tank dives. We explore the beautiful Kerama Islands each day where divers can choose one of the three dive sites to try. A three-dive package is also available.

If you are not certified, the Introductory Diving Package is a great way to get a taste for diving and experience Kerama Islands’ underwater scenery. The packages includes on Introductory Dive (also called a Discovery Dive), as well as snorkeling gear to enjoy at your leisure. If you get the diving bug you can then jump on one of Seasir’s PADI Open Water Diver Courses and get licensed.

Marine House SEASIR

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Tel: 090-8668-6554 E-mail: english@seasir.com Web: www.seasir.com/en/

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ULTRA TRAIL MT. FUJI 2013

By Pauline Kitamura

Men's winner Yoshikazu Hara. Photo by Yosuke Kashiwakura Photo by Yosuke Kashiwakura

Photo by Sho Fujimaki

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RACE REPORT: JAPAN

O

Photo by Sho Fujimaki

Photo by Sho Fujimaki

n April 26, trail runners from around the globe gathered at Japan’s most iconic mountain to take part in Japan’s largest trail running race, the Ultra Trail Run Mt. Fuji (UTMF). The race featured the 161-km.

UTMF, and the 85-km. Shizuoka-to-Yamanashi (STY) race.

The courses were a grueling mix of mountain and road, requiring racers to negotiate technical mountainous terrain as well as quickly run across long stretches of asphalt and gravel road. Night running high in the mountains was also a useful skill during this extremely challenging race.

“Brutal. Tough. Painful. But absolutely beautiful.”

These were some of the words chosen by racers to describe the course.

“I couldn’t believe just how steep the trails were in Japan. There were some sections that were so steep, I literally had to use both my arms and legs to pull myself up the mountain,” exclaimed one Australian participant.

“Next year I’ll train by throwing in some climbing to my running schedule,” she laughed.

The UTMF race pamphlet forewarned athletes the weather could be unpredictable in April, with cold temperatures and even snow a possibility. The temperatures on the mountain were cold indeed.

However, UTMF was once again blessed with good, relatively warm weather over the two days, and 73 percent of the UTMF starters and 92 percent of the STY starters were able to successfully cross the finish line.

According to the race committee though, they consider themselves lucky this year and are keenly aware the statistics may not be so great if the weather gods don’t cooperate in the future.

Although many trail races in Japan are locally

organized and mainly attended by Japanese runners, the UTMF is one of the first races in Japan to earn a strong following among the international ultra-running community. So much so, that some racers traveled halfway around the world to reach the start line at Lake Kawaguchi.

This year, 269 racers from 40 countries (almost 13 percent of the total number of participants) signed up for the race.

The UTMF also attracted some of the best racers from around the world, including Sebastien Chaigneau and Julien Chorier of France, and Gary Robbins (Canada).

They placed second, third and fourth respectively in the men’s UTMF category.

On the women’s side, international runners Krissy Moehl (USA) and Shona Stephenson (Australia) placed first and second in the women’s UTMF. This is the top race for many of Japan’s top trail runners – the one they say really matters. Despite the home-turf advantage, the world-class competition proved to be humbling. There was one very big surprise however in the form of Yoshikazu Hara. A relatively new, unknown roadrunner, he beat out an elite group of international runners to take first place overall.

The 2014 race dates have not been announced yet but, as soon as the dates are official, race details and registration information will be posted on the ULTRATRAIL Mt. FUJI official race Web site. Web: www. ultratrailmtfuji.com Racers coming from abroad may also want to check out Avid Adventures Japan about travel and race support packages in English. Web: www.avid-adventures. com ✤

2013 RESULTS

UTMF Men’s Category

Photo by Sho Fujimaki Photo by Sho Fujimaki

UTMF Women’s Category

STY Men’s Category STY Women’s Category SUMMER

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1 YOSHIKAZU HARA

Japan

19:39:48

2 JULIEN CHORIER

France

19:48:28

3 SEBASTIEN CHAIGNEAU

France

19:50:13

4 GARY ROBBINS

Canada

20:20:39

5 BRENDAN DAVIES

Australia

20:38:17

1 KRISTIN MOEHL

USA

24:35:45

2 SHONA STEPHENSON

Australia

25:56:53

3 HITOMI OGAWA

Japan

26:15:25

4 KUMIKO AMIKURA

Japan

27:26:33

5 HIROKO SUZUKI

Japan

27:52:06

1 OSAMU MISAITSU

Japan

9:54:14

2 YUUTA SATOU

Japan

10:07:05

3 TAKUROU OOSHIMA

Japan

10:39:09

1 MANUELA VILASECA

Brazil

11:36:18

2 NORA SENN

Hong Kong

12:41:41

3 AKIKO MICHIDA

Japan

13:52:14

15

Go deep into Nepal at the

Mustang

Trail Race

By Richard Bull

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RACE REPORT: NEPAL

L

ush green foothills dotted with quaint villages set against the backdrop of soaring, breathlessly high mountains. This is the image most people conjure in their minds when they think of Nepal.

However, hidden behind the giant 8,000-meter peaks of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, lies the Mustang Region.

It’s a mysterious, arid-looking place of cliffs and canyons.

Rainfall is rare, and the fields surrounding the compact, earth-toned villages here are irrigated by snowmelt from the nearby mountains.

This sunburned landscape is the canvas for the first Mustang Trail race, an eight-day multi-stage trail race along inter-village trails of the former “Forbidden Kingdom.”

Mustang is reached in a small Dornier plane, via the deepest valley in the world, which follows the Kali Gandaki River and cuts a five-kilometer deep V-shape between the two 8,000-meter mountains. Against this massive scale, the plane feels like a mosquito flying between two houses.

Experienced Japanese ultra runner Ryoichi Sato (51)

from Kanagawa Prefecture was one of the 12 participants in the inaugural race.

He came to Mustang to follow in the footsteps of two legendary Japanese runners: Ekai Kawaguchi, the Tibetexploring Buddhist monk who was the first Japanese visitor to Mustang and Nepal, and Toru Kondo, the exJICA worker who dedicated more than 15 years of his life to Mustang development.

“The trails were safe; they were trails used by the people living in Mustang. It was very changeable scenery and a feast for the eyes that was a lot of fun,” said Sato.

Each stage was between 15 and 32 kilometers with up to 2,000 meters of climbing. This may not sound overly challenging to some trail runners, but at an altitude of 3,500-meters, there is only 66 percent oxygen available and even a slow jog can feel like a sprint.

The natural scenery features the fiery red cliffs above Dhakmar village and the Grand Canyon-like badlands of Konchok Ling. The dramatic color changes from place to place and according to the position of the sun and clouds.

The area's rich culture includes numerous monasteries

and sacred caves, sometimes far from the nearest habitation.

Competitors were able to sign in and out of certain checkpoints, so they could take as much time as they needed to visit cultural sites such as the 800-year-old Lo Gekar Monastery, with its exquisite carved and painted stone images.

Famous British trail runner Lizzy Hawker, who came in second overall, says, “Multi-day races are excellent training for ultras. Back-to-back days really build endurance.”

Sato, a Team Otori Ultra Runners club member, will need all the endurance he can muster in his next challenge. He’ll be back in the Himalayas in July, this time in Ladakh, India, where he’ll take on the 222K La Ultra high-altitude race.

The next Mustang Trail Race will take place Nov. 23 to Dec. 6. Sign up on the Web site at www.mustangtrailrace. com. Check out more Nepal trail running events at www. trailrunningnepal.org/events ✤

IN MEMORIAM: DAVID

ALLARDICE

New Zealander David Allardice spent most of his life traveling away from his homeland, taking on challenges throughout Asia and the rest of the world. He ran several first descents of rivers such as the Indus, Maykha and Yalung Tsangpo. He pioneered the booming rafting industry in Nepal and started commercial multi-day river expeditions on many of the world’s great rivers.

David trained a generation of international and Nepalese river guides, some of whom now work in Japan.

The devoted husband and father recently died after a battle with cancer.

David and Patrick O’Keeffe, founder of Hokkaido Outdoor Adventures, have been friends since the early ’90s when both were working in Nepal. They became business partners in The Last Resort in Nepal and another enterprise in northern Burma. They were instrumental in getting the first Nepali rafting guides working visas in Japan. Nowadays most of the top rafting companies in Japan have Nepali-trained guides.

“After a lifetime of adventure, and all the things that should have killed him, he was sadly taken away from us by cancer,” said Patrick.

“He was a friend, a business partner, a sensei who showed us how to live life to the fullest. David was an inspiration. Adventures we dreamed up over a few drinks would become a reality, through his eternal optimism and the magic he would weave that would make us believe we could do almost anything, and we usually did.”

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17

Q&A

With Team East Wind Captain Masato Tanaka

Team East Wind was on the cover of Outdoor Japan Traveler after you competed in the grueling 2011 Patagonian Expedition Race (PER). You returned in 2012 and 2013. What keeps you going back for more?

There’s no other race like PER. The Patagonia wilderness is really special (ice fields, fjords, glaciers and pristine wilderness), and PER is the wildest and toughest adventure race on the planet. It beats you up every time and, no matter how many times we come back, there are always new challenges. It showed us what it takes to be one of the top teams in the world. That’s why the other top adventure teams such as Adidas TERREX Prunesco (UK) and Yogaslackers/GearJunky.com (USA) also keep coming back.

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Can you compare the terrain in Chilean Patagonia with anything in Japan?

Chilean Patagonia has a variety of terrain, such as fjords, ice fields, glaciers, swamps and primeval forest.

There’s really no place in Japan that has this diverse landscape. However, the weather and the scenery in Yakushima reminds you a bit of Chilean Patagonia; it rains a lot in both places, so the forests are really thick and harsh and everything is covered with moss.

What's most challenging about the terrain there?

Crossing swamps, never-ending bushwhacking, swimming in glacier-fed rivers and the beaver dams.

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Team East Wind finished seventh in 2010, fifth in 2011 and finished second in the last two races.

What has been the key to the team’s improvement?

There are many reasons. For one, the team participated with the same four members in three consecutive international races; PER 2011, the adventure racing world championship in Tasmania, and PER 2012, and all of the members were committed to winning PER. After finishing fifth in 2011, it was natural for us to aim for the top three in 2012.

We also changed tactics. In 2011, we slept only an hour and a half each day during the race. It was physically very difficult. We got very sleepy during the day, which made us move slowly, and we started making a lot of navigation mistakes which was inefficient. Also, it was really hard to make much progress in the dark, and we ended up getting lost a lot.

ADVENTURE RACING: CHILE

We had a real good and positive energy going on in 2012, and that really helped all of us mentally – which is super important – to keep moving fast, enjoy the race and finish in the top three.

So we learned the lesson and decided to sleep three hours at night in 2012. Surprisingly, when we got three hours of sleep our bodies felt quite rested, and we were able to keep moving fast during the day. In Patagonia, it gets dark at 10 p.m. As soon as it got dark, we started looking for a good spot to pitch our tents. We would make camp by midnight, sleep for three hours, wake and pack up. We were moving again by 4 a.m., and the sun would rise an hour and a half later. We didn’t waste much daylight.

Another thing we did was push ourselves physically, going as fast as we could from the start. We hardly ever stopped to rest until we camped at night and spent minimum time in the transit areas. We never stopped focusing on catching up to the team ahead of us. All four of us kept motivating each other with positive comments and by telling jokes the whole time. We had a real good and positive energy going on in 2012, and that really helped all of us mentally – which is super important – to keep moving fast, enjoy the race and finish in the top three.

How close were you to catching the leaders the past two years?

In 2012, we finished 12 hours behind the winners, and we were more than a day behind them this year. Last year, our goal was to finish in the top three, so we were very happy with the result. When we learned we were just 12 hours behind, it felt as if we should have tried harder to catch them. All the teams were fairly close together during the race, and we learned what it would take.

But this year was different. Our focus was to win the race, and we gave it our all, yet we were more than a day behind the winners. We did our best but learned what we still needed to work on to win next year’s PER.

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What is most important to become a successful adventure race team?

Each team member has to completely get their ego out of the way, and be humble toward other team members and nature.

Has the adventure race scene changed much in the past few years?

Many of the big adventure races around the world, such as Primal Quest and Raid Gauloises, disappeared after they lost big sponsors because of the recession.

In Japan, the adventure race community is not really growing; the sport is not as popular as other sports such as marathons or soccer. But races will never disappear completely, because there are enough devoted racers who will support adventure races.

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Are there any races or events with which you are involved in Japan?

Former Team East Wind and PER member Kay Sato organized a two-day event called Nokogiri Yama Adventure Weekend; it is a training camp for beginners.

The event includes a presentation by Team East Wind, navigation, rope activities, sea kayak training and miniadventure race.

I organize the Adventure Racing Japan Series (ARJS), X-Adventure (four-day adventure race), Satoyama Adventure, training camps, navigation and trail running lessons and Snow Country Trail.

Does Team East Wind team have any international races coming up?

The team will participate in the world championship in Costa Rica in November and plans to participate in PER 2014 in Chile.

20

Was there anything that made Chile a particularly interesting or memorable travel destination outside the race itself?

We always stay at Hostel Keoken because the owner is very helpful and takes great care of us from the moment we arrive at the Punta Arenas Airport until we leave.

There are a lot of great restaurants, but we ate at a local hamburger restaurant called Lomit’s almost every day. You can select anything you like in your burger – chicken, pork, beef steak or hamburger, cheese, avocado, tomatoes…and the size of their burgers is perfect for endurance athletes. We looked forward to eating at Lomit’s after finishing the race.

Chilean people are very friendly, and they seemed to take a liking to our Japanese team. PER 2013 ended in the middle of Punta Arenas town, so there were thousands of people welcoming the racers at the finish

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line. Many people asked us for photographs, and a local TV crew was filming us when we crossed the finish line.

We were eating at Lomit’s when they aired us on the evening news, and everyone in the restaurant applauded.

What would you say to people thinking about entering an adventure race?

I wish more people would try adventure racing. Some people seem to think adventure racing is too extreme or too tough a sport to join, but it’s really not like that.

Adventure racing is a wonderful experience; for some, it can be a life-changing experience. Once you participate in your first race, you’ll realize it’s more than just a sport, it goes deeper than that. ✤ Patagonian Expedition Race: www.patagonianexpeditionrace.com Team East Wind: www.east-wind.jp/team/ X Adventure Series: www.x-adventure.jp

ADVENTURE RACING: CHILE

Q&A

With Team East Wind Captain Masato Tanaka

Patagonian International Marathon

S

tjepan Pavicic, the founder of the Patagonian Expedition Race (PER), created the Patagonian International Marathon (PIM). After 10 successful Expedition Races, he decided to branch out to make more of an impact for sustainable tourism. This year will mark the second year for the marathon. The race features four distances: the 63K ultra-marathon, 42K marathon, 21K half-marathon and a 10K fun run.

The marathon helps raise awareness about the fragility of the landscape, sustainable development and responsible ways to enjoy nature while helping the local community. Only 10 or 15 teams compete in PER, but the exposure for the Patagonia area is tremendous.

PIM attracted 375 runners from multiple countries in its first year, and organizers are aiming for 600 runners this year. You do not have to be an elite adventure racer to participate in the marathon.

Recreational runners can take part in the 10K or half-marathon, but there is also the ultra distance for serious runners.

The 2013 race will be held on Sept. 28, the low season for tourism, to help support local businesses, and 2,000 Chilean pesos is taken from every entry and used to purchase a tree which is planted after the race through Reforesemos Patagonia.

Web: www.patagonianinternationalmarathon.com

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21

ON THE RUN

By Robert Self

Surviving the Summer Funk

W

ith the steamy summer air pressing down like a hot wet blanket, one more lap around Tokyo’s Imperial Palace or Osaka Castle can be hard to face. Yet there are solutions beyond your air-conditioned gym’s “dreadmill.” Some quite wonderful running experiences in Japan’s outdoors during the summer hot season.

First of all, let me say the rainy season (roughly mid-June to mid-July) gets a bum rap.

The first several weeks are often pleasantly cool and, on most days, the weather ranges from cloudy to drizzly. It rarely rains hard enough to interfere with a good run. For those willing to hit the low forest trails near Tokyo or Osaka, the scenery takes on a misty and beautiful aspect, which can be as lovely as a Chinese screen painting. Ajisai (hydrangea) bloom, temples look inviting and mysterious, and the air is cool and fresh. A run through a pine forest on a mountain road or trail could remind you of everything you love about Japan.

No denying most runners will find late July and all of August in Japan rather unlovable, but there are ways to make your run something to look forward to rather than just a training slog for which you must psyche up yourself.

Here are 10 tips for making it at the very least tolerable, and often downright enjoyable.

1. Put ice in your running pack’s hydration system bladder. Drinking the refreshing water will cool you down, as will the ice turning to cold water against your back, which usually lasts about 45 minutes.

2. Run along a fast moving stream. Running water produces a surprising amount of natural air conditioning. No, the Imperial Palace moat or the Dotonbori River are not going to help much. Find a quickmoving mountain stream.

3. Dip your hat in cold water. A wet hat definitely cools you down a bit. Somehow sweat doesn’t quite do the trick quite as well. Up to 70 percent of the body’s heat is dissipated through the head, so cold water really seems to help the process.

or take a waterfall shower. Your body’s core temperature will thank you for hours.

9. For trail runners, learn to run at night with a headlamp. Running at night in summer is an obvious choice for city runners as well.

10. Give in and run in the sweltering heat in order to increase your fitness and performance. According to a University of Oregon study published in The Journal of Applied Physiology, “As a result of our getting used to the heat, the volume of plasma in the blood increases, sweating begins earlier and is much heavier, and the heart adapts, pumping blood to the skin’s surface faster, thereby releasing heat through convection cooling.” Test results showed performance benefits. So all that muggy, funky air could actually help you be a better runner.

The Run Down: Cool Summer Spots

4. Travel light. Don’t carry much gear, or water if you are running in town. Running in the city, you will pass by countless hanbaiki (vending machines), so it’s easy to find something cold to drink. If you carry more than a liter of water, you may actually sweat more from the exertion.

In the mountains, plan your run around places with a fresh water supply.

5. Run in the forest. Trees and plants are naturally coolers.

6. Run in the morning or late afternoon.

7. Run high. Dry air temperature drops one degree centigrade per 100 meters. Wet air drops at a rate about half of that. This means, at an elevation of 1,000 meters, the air temperature will be five to 10 degrees lower than the average sweltering Japanese city. Generally speaking, the hot, wet and heavy air in the Kanto and Kansai plains relents higher than about 600 meters or so.

8. Jump into a cold stream at the end of a run

The Okumusashi Green Line: Beloved of ultra runners in Kanto, the Okumusashi Green Line is just 50 minutes from downtown Tokyo and near most stations on the Seibu Ikebukuro Line after Musashi Yokote Station. Elevations range from 300 meters to near 1,000 meters as this forest road winds some 25 kilometers toward Maruyama. It’s a good place to meet some of Japan’s most motivated runners. Stop for lunch at one of the teashops at Kafuri Toge for good food and great views, even during rainy season.

Tamagawa Josui: Another convenient place to run from central Tokyo is Tamagawa Josui.

This cool, forested canal has supplied water to central Tokyo for hundreds of years. Running alongside it provides a relatively cool corridor along a shaded mix of road and trail. Good for shorter runs.

Robert Self came to Japan from northern California's redwood country. He has been running in Japan's mountains for 20 years and has coached runners from beginners to international champions. He is the director of Hanno Trail School which specializes in running tours and trail running lessons.

Web: www.tokyotrailrunning.com / Facebook: www.facebook.com/tokyotrailrunning

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Cycling Japan:

A JOURNEY TO EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL LIFE

By Takashi Niwa Translated by Sakae Sugahara

サイクリング—それは 土地の暮らしを感じる旅

ROUTE

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#

Summer Touring through Doto Dreamland

Bihoro Toge

Lake Mashu

Nakashibetsu

Lake Akan

北海道 道東で一か所を拠点にサイクリング三昧

Mashu

Kushiro Shitsugen

A wide variation of scenery is the largest attraction of Doto. 風景の変化が大きいのが道東のイチバンの魅力

C

ycling enthusiasts in Japan dream of summer cycle touring in Hokkaido. This is Japan’s big sky country; the open fields, relatively cooler crisp air, good food and many hot springs and cycling-friendly accommodations make it ideal for cycle touring.

The best of the best is the Doto area in eastern Hokkaido. What sets it apart is the abundance of attractive destinations, a wide variation of scenery, a well developed travel infrastructure and easy access from Honshu, with multiple airports in Kushiro, Memanbetsu, Nakashibetsu and Obihiro.

You can do the grand tour of Doto, which covers about 600 km., or you can stay in one place and ride different loops each day. Teshikaga Town near Mashu Station makes an ideal base for such excursions with Akan’s tracts of virgin forest to the west, Lake Kusharo and the rolling hills of Memanbetsu to the north, pastures on the Konsen Plateau and Nemuro Straits facing the Northern Territories to the east and Kushiro Shitsugen marshland to the south.

Pedal in any direction from Teshikaga for a memorable day of riding and, if you want to venture farther, train and bike trips to the Shiretoko or Nemuro peninsulas are doable day-trips.

Cranking away from a hub each day gives you more agility with less luggage to carry. It makes your planning easier and gives you more flexibility, depending on weather, physical conditions and other factors.

「夏

は北海道を走りたい！」 これは日本の多くのサイクリストの夢である。広大 な景色、冷涼な気候、美味しい食事、温泉など、サイクリングの ための必要な多くがそこにある。 そのなかでイチオシのエリアが道東（北海道東部）だ。北海 道のほかの地域と比較すると道東は大きく4つ。 1. 魅力的なポイントが多い 2. 風景の変化が多い 3. 既存の旅行インフラが存在する…宿泊、食事、公共交通 機関など 4. 空港が多い（釧路、女満別、中標津、帯広）…本州からの アクセスが多い 600㎞程度をかけて、ぐるりと一周するのもよいが、ここではど こか一か所拠点にして、毎日いろいろなエリアを走って戻る、と いう走り方ができる。たとえば、弟子屈（摩周）に宿をとると、西 は阿寒の原生林、北は屈斜路湖や女満別の丘、東には根釧 台地の牧草地から北方領土を望める根室海峡、南は釧路湿原 など、日によって風景が異なるサイクリングを楽しめる。さらに輪 行（列車移動） を交えれば、知床、根室半島などもターゲットとな り得る。 一か所を拠点にすると、サイクリングのときに持つ荷物が少な いこと、天気や体調によってプランを変えられるのもうれしい。

Hotel Mashu is a cyclist-friendly hotel in Teshikaga.

弟子屈でのサイクリストフレンドリーなホテル：ホテル摩周

3-22 Yunoshima 2-chome, Teshikaga-cho, Kawakami-gun, Hokkaido 088-3203 〒088-3203 北海道川上郡弟子屈町湯の島2丁目3-22 Web: www.hotel-masyu.com Tel: (015) 482-2141

Takashi Niwa’s Yamamichi Adventure company has been renamed Niwa Cycling Tours (www.ncycling.com). He offers many bike tours, both domestic and overseas. For other routes in Japan, please pick up a copy of “CYCLING JAPAN: 10 of the Best Rides, Vol. 1”by Takashi Niwa, at bookshops around Japan and various online stores.

丹羽隆志（にわ たかし） 2011年1月より “やまみちアドベンチャー”改め “に わサイクリングツアー” （www.ncycling.com）として 国内外の各地をガイドする。国内のコースについ ては『丹羽隆志の日本ベストサイクリングコース10 vol.1 』を参照してほしい。

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23

Dorado Dreaming

A

long the coast of Kanagawa’s Sagami Bay, there is about a month-and-a-half stretch between July and August when every capable fishing vessel books up with eager anglers aiming to catch a big dorado. Shira, as they are called in Japanese, swim to within a stone’s throw of the shoreline, follow the Kuroshio (black current) and chase migratory baitfish from the beginning of June and then hang out in the bay until late October.

The bite is generally consistent but prone to sudden slumps when the weather mucks up the clarity at the ocean surface or drives the water temperature down. For folks just starting out, it may seem a little tricky reading the conditions and learning what kind of plug to snap on, but anyone can pick up the basics of this type of game fishing quickly.

Due to several factors, including Japan’s warm coastal currents, an abundance of plankton and baitfish and their super-fast growth rate, it’s possible to encounter hundreds of dorado near oceanic tide lines feeding on whatever type of baitfish is present. The sight of dozens of dorado screaming across the surface, changing colors as they switch on and start frenzying is simply amazing. When conditions are right, anglers can sight cast and slay them until their arms get tired.

Unlike in most other countries, dorado are

targeted on lures in Japan. A standard outfit is a 6.5-to-7.5-foot medium-action 40-gram max cast weight-spinning rod, coupled with either a 3,500-to-4,000-size Daiwa, or a 5,000-to-6,000size Shimano reel. Line-wise we’re talking PE2to-3 and a 50-to-60 pound fluorocarbon leader.

This tackle is remarkably light, weighing less than a kilogram.

A mind-boggling variety of lures are available, but anglers can get a feel for what model is working well by checking with tackle shop staff and captains. Generally speaking, both floating and sinking pencils and poppers in the 11-14 cm. range do the job, but in some instances the bait fish won’t be that big so something around nine cm. is more likely to get bit.

Most years the first bite happens in early June when schools of pelagic baitfish are nearing the coastline. At this point the water temperature is warming, but the weather topside doesn’t quite yet feel like summer.

For about a three-week stretch, there’s a lot of action to be had, so long as the wind direction stays consistent and it doesn’t rain too heavily.

In late June the rainy season starts and puts a damper on the conditions to catch dorado and other pelagics as the water temperature may be a little too low for predators to hang near the surface. However, once the rainy

Readers living in or visiting the Shonan area can get into dorado and other great saltwater fishing with KazutoshiMaru, a full-service fishing guide based at Chigasaki Port. Web: http://kazutoshimaru.net/

24

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season weather dissipates and the dead of summer sets in, it’s no-holds-barred action for the rest of the season.

Dorado is a great top water target into which anyone can jump and do well. If you’re thinking of doing some fishing this summer, be sure to give it a whirl. You won’t regret it.

By Bryan Harrell

Loco Beer ロコビア Sakura, Chiba 千葉県佐倉市

L

oco Beer is a small brewery in suburban Chiba. It’s near Yukarigaoka Station on the main Keisei Line, not far from Narita Airport. The brewery was founded in 1998 by liquor discount retailer Shimor and has won quite a few medals in beer contests throughout Japan. Momoyo Kagitani, one of Japan’s few female brewmasters, was originally hired to brew their beers which are primarily available at Shimor’s stores and outlets.

Early last year, an opportunity arose for Kagitani to take over the management and business operations of Loco Beer. She and her husband, Koichi Nittoh (a materials scientist in Tsukuba and a craft beer enthusiast), took the reins of Loco Beer in April of 2012 and embarked on a mission to begin brewing a greater variety of beers.

Presently, Kagitani is continuing to brew their highly regarded Kölsch (a light German ale from the city of Köln) along with a California common beer (also known as “steam beer” because it resembles the A nchor Steam

今

original), with occasional specialties and seasonal beers.

As of this writing, Loco Beer is shipping these two beers, along with a “Winter Old” ale, an India Pale Ale and a Märzen beer. Coming soon is a Baltic Porter. Last year, Loco released a Coconut Porter (a dark ale with toasted coconut) that had a remarkable depth and complexity. Prices range between ¥450 and ¥550 per 330-ml. bottle.

This year, expect an interesting and diverse variety of brews from the Loco crew.

Those who read Japanese can follow developments on their Web site’s blog and Facebook page. You can also find details there on ordering beer fo r h o m e d e l i v e r y.

Tokyo residents can often find Loco Beer at Tanakaya (http:// tanakaya.cognacfan. com), about a minute from Mejiro Station on the JR Yamanote Line.

回、紹介するのは千葉郊

これを書いている間に、 ロ

外にあるロコビア。京 成

コビアから上記二つのビー

ゆかりが 丘 駅のすぐそば、成 田

ルとともに、 ウィンターオール

からも遠くない。ディスカウント酒

ドエール、インディアペール

専門店だったシモアールが 1998

エール、 そしてメルツェンビー ルが 届く予 定。また、バ ル

年に始めた醸造所で、 日本中の ビールコンテストでさまざまな賞を受賞している。数少

チックポーターも近日発売を予定している。去年発売

ない女性ビール醸造家、鍵谷百代さんがつくるここの

したココナッツポーター（焼きココナッツをつかったダー

ビールは、基本的にシモアール店舗とアウトレットのみ

クエール） は深さと複雑さが入り交じるすばらしいビー

で販売されている。

ルだった。価 格は330mlボトル1 本あたり450 円または

昨年初旬、 ロコビアの経営を任されるという機会に

550 円。

めぐまれた彼女は、夫である日塔光一さん（物理学者

今年もさまざまなビールを醸造してくれそうなロコビ

でクラフトビールファン） とともに2012 年 4月、 ロコビア

ア。オーダー方法など、詳細も掲載されているので、彼

の指揮をとり、 ビールの種類を拡大するというミッション

らのブログ、 フェイスブックのファンページは要チェック だ。東京在住者は、JR目白駅にある田中屋へ行けば

をスタートさせた。 現在も季節のビールなどとともに、評価の高いケル

ロコビアのビールに出会える。

シュ（ドイツ・ケルンのライトジャーマンエール）やアン カースチームのオリジナルに似ていることから、 スチー ムビールとも呼ばれるカリフォルニア・コモンビールな どを醸造中である。

Loco Beer (within the Shimor store) ロコビア 119 3 Jouza, Sakura-shi, Chiba 285-0854 〒 2 8 5 - 0 8 5 4 千葉県佐 倉 市上 座 119 3

Phone: (043) 487-6914 Web: www.locobeer.jp (Japanese only) Hours: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. (No pub or restaurant) SUMMER

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25

Kitakama キタカマ

— 槍ヶ岳北鎌尾根ルート登頂記 —

By CJW

26

SUMMER

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The old man and I sat on the peak of the Gendarme, that towering granite spire, watching the early evening clouds boil around the summits of the North Alps. From our lofty seat, the world below appeared as a sea of white foam dotted with an archipelago of dark mountaintops. The pyramid of Yari stood tallest of all those islands, an unmistakable black spear thrusting toward the heavens.

The old man pointed slowly toward that distant peak.

“There’s another route up Yari, you know. You won’t find it on any of the maps. There aren’t any old women or children up there, either. It’s a hard route. I’d reckon not one in a hundred thousand climb Yari from that side. They call it the Kitakama Ridge,” he said.

From that moment, Kitakama consumed me. その老人と私は高くそびえた花崗岩の山頂にすわり、薄暮の北アルプスに渦巻く雲を眺めていた。 山々をおおう白い雲は海のようでもあり、雲間から頂きをあらわす山々はまるで点在する小島だった。 そのなかでも、ひときわ高く黒い矢のようにこの荘厳な世界を突き破っているのは槍ヶ岳のピラミッドだ。 老人は静かにその山を指差した。 「槍ヶ岳にはどの地図にも載っていない、過酷なルートが存在する。 年輩の女性や子どもにとって難しいという意味ではないよ。 私がもし十万回槍ヶ岳に登ったとしても、そのルートは選ばない」と老人は続けた。 「北鎌尾根と、そのルートは呼ばれている」。 その瞬間から私の心にキタカマという言葉が刻まれた。

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27

A

year later, I started climbing up the steep wooden slope from Nakabusa Onsen to Enzanso Lodge.

Fair weather had drawn weekend crowds, now making their descent after taking in morning views from the summit of Mt. Yari. It’s not for nothing this mountain is known as the Ginza of the Alps.

By midday I’m at the top of the slope. The weather is fine, but at the ridge a sharp north wind cuts up from the valley on the other side. I pull on a jacket and start the walk to tonight’s destination, the hut at Otensho. Yari is shrouded in billowing clouds until they part for an instant revealing Kitakama Ridge and the enormity of the mission ahead.

It was the first time I had glimpsed Yari from this side.

As impressive as it was from the other direction, nothing could match this view. A defiant middle finger of rock thrust skyward, making the roundabout peaks seem dwarfish and dull.

There, spilling off the northern side of the mountain, lay the Kitakama Ridge, all broken black teeth and dismal spires. As quickly as it revealed itself, the clouds took it back, leaving only a terrible, faded image burned into my retinas. I turned my back and hurried along the ridge as the wind tugged.

The hut lies in a saddle between Mt. Otensho and Ushikubi Peak and, according to my map book, boasts “wonderful views of Yari and a 360-degree panorama.”

It was already late afternoon, and I was considering dropping down to the valley where I might bivy for the night, when the hut owner emerged.

He glanced at the ironmongery on my pack, the helmet and the rope, and simply asked, "Kitakama?" I nodded. He had a friendly smile and relaxed air, quite unlike that of many of the hut owners of the Alps, not a few of whom had gone mildly insane.

“You look well kitted out for it, and seem strong enough. I get a few through here each year, and I try to check ’em out. Once in a while you get a 'bumbly' who thinks the Kitakama might be a pleasant stroll. I try to tell them to turn back. Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't. Sometimes they get halfway and make it back here in a terrible state. Sometimes they never come back, and I read about them in the newspaper later. So, where to tonight?” he inquires.

I tell him I’m looking for a place to bivy.

“There are bears in the valley, “ he says, “and they're hungry this time of year.”

It seems more than an idle sales ploy. There’s no one else at the hut tonight, and he offers to let me stay for the cut rate of ¥1,000.

“As long as you make your own food. Oh, and if you can do me just one favor…” he adds.

Apparently he'd recently had trouble explaining the workings of the chemical toilet to a group of foreign hikers. Now the toilet features English instructions, courtesy of yours truly.

The next morning, the hut owner and I climbed Ushikubi Peak to watch the sunrise. A wan disc struggled above the horizon, but was soon swallowed by iron gray clouds. There, he pointed out the route up the Kitakama.

“Go down the Bimbozawa gully and cut left up the river to the Kitakama couloir. Careful on the Bimbozawa; it might be frozen this early in the morning. Follow the Kitakama col up to where it forks and make sure you

28

take the right-hand fork. The left is a death trap, people have died in there,” he warns.

Black clouds now roll in from the north. The metallic tang of snow is sharp on the wind, as we are peppered with flakes. For a brief moment I consider calling off the climb. The hut owner tells me not to worry, the forecast is good for the next couple of days, and this will pass shortly.

I thank him and make my way to the notch in the next saddle where a small sign proclaims the entrance to Bimbozawa. Literally "Poor Gully,” it lives up to its name.

The top is a mess of creeping haimatsu pine, followed by a boulder-chocked 750-vertical-meter descent. It’s dry until the bottom section, where a sulfurous waterfall spills from the cliffs above.

At one point, a crumbling rope leads down a steep, slippery slope. I don’t trust it, so I use my own. It’s a grueling two hours of work before I reach the river of the valley floor, bruised and cut. I slap a bloody handprint on a nearby rock, a primeval marker, before plunging my torn hand into the icy waters.

The clouds swiftly depart as I reach the entrance to the Kitakama col. It’s a short climb to the fork, where I stop to fill my water bottle. This may be the last place to take on water until I reach the Yari hut on the other side.

I can only take three liters with me, which is not going to be enough.

I climb into the right-hand gully, up over boulders.

In places, house-sized blocks of rock bar the way, so I take off my pack and haul it behind me while I boulder up. It’s strenuous work, especially after using so much energy descending Bimbozawa, and made no easier by the pack’s maddening tendency to get stuck halfway up.

The head of the col hovers in constant sight but never seems to draw nearer. The oppressive walls open out into a grassy slope just below the top of the gully. A warm slab of rock makes a welcome seat to take in the views across this lonely valley.

Too quickly, long-fingered shadows creep toward my sunny perch as mid-day passes. Shouldering the pack once more I travel the last few meters to the ridge proper where, for the first time, I gaze out over the soft contours of Mt. Washiba and Mt. Suisho to the north, and the yellow sand ridge that stands between us.

The wind blows colder here. Icicles hang from the cliffs, and the remains of the morning’s snow dot the ground. A little farther on, a rope of reasonably modern vintage snakes down a cliff face. I clip into the end of it, SUMMER

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Kitakama

“Go down the Bimbozawa gully and cut left up the river to the Kitakama couloir.

Careful on the Bimbozawa; it might be frozen this early in the morning.

Follow the Kitakama col up to where it forks and make sure you take the right-hand fork.

The left is a death trap, people have died in there,” he warns. 「貧乏沢を下り、北鎌沢の左を登る。 貧乏沢は注意したほうがいい、早朝は凍っているからね。 北鎌コルで支流がふたつに別れるから右手を行くんだ。 左には死の罠が待ち受けている。そこで多くの人が死んでいる」 と彼は注意してくれた。

は雪が混じり、鋭い金属片のように感じられた。悪天 候のために私は登山の中止を宣言しようとしたが、山 小屋の主人は大丈夫だと言った。天気図によれば、こ れからの２日間は晴天が続くという。だからこの悪天 候は長くは続かない。彼にお礼をいうと私は貧乏沢の 入り口を示す切り込みの入った標識に向かった。この 渓谷はその名のとおりで上部には這松が群生し、そこ からは750メートルの断崖となっていた。崖の底部は 乾燥しているが、その上部からは硫黄の滝が噴出して いた。急峻で滑りやすい斜面にクライミング用のロー プが垂れ下がっていたが、私は自分のロープしか使わ 彼はほかの山小屋によくいる偏屈な主人とは異な

なかった。その結果、川にたどり着くまでに2時間も

り、親しげな笑顔とリラックスした空気を醸し出して

費やし疲労だけでなく軽傷も負ってしまい、凍てつく

いた。 「あなたは装備もしっかりしているし、体力も

ような水で傷を洗い流すまでに、太古の痕跡のような

あるようだね。わたしは毎年ここで北鎌に向かう人の

血染めの指紋を岩肌へつけることになってしまった。

年後、私は中房温泉から急峻な森を抜けて燕山荘

装備をチェックするのだが、北鎌をハイキングかなに

北鎌のコルへ向かう私の気持ちのように上空の雲

へと向かった。好天により山は週末を利用した

かだと勘違いしている人が少なからずいる。出直すよ

はすばやく移動していた。

登山客でにぎわっていた。彼らは槍ヶ岳で日の出を拝

うに勧めて、その意見に従う人もいるがそうじゃない

水をボトルに詰める予定の川の分岐まではそれほ

み、下山中であった。ここがアルプスの銀座とも呼ば

人もいる。そういう人は半分も登らないうちに悲惨な

ど時間はかからなかった。だがそこから槍ヶ岳の山小

れているのも過言ではない。

状況にあうんだ、戻ってこない人もいて、あとから新

屋まで水を補給できるところはない。3リットルの水

正午には、稜線の上にたどり着くことができた。天

聞でそのことを知るんだよ。さて今夜はどこへ？」。

を詰めたが、それでは十分とは言えなかった。

候はよいが、渓谷から吹き抜ける北風は冷たい。私は

私は、ツェルトを張れる場所がないかと聞いた。

小さな渓谷を右手に見て登る。この辺りでは家ほ

ジャケットを重ねて、今夜の目的地である大天井岳の

「この谷には熊がいて、この季節は腹を空かせてい

どもある大岩が私の行くさきを阻む。そのために私

山小屋を目指した。

るんだよ」。

はザックを下ろしてその大岩を越えなければならな

槍ヶ岳の北鎌尾根側は、そのルートを選んだ者たち

子どもだましのようなセリフのようにも聞こえた

かった。これは非常に労力を必要とした。ましてや、

が愚行を悟るまでは、いつも雲に覆われているとい

が、主人によると今夜はだれも小屋に泊まらないから

あの貧乏沢で体力を使い果たしたあとだったからな

う。だが私は、その日一瞬だけだが北鎌尾根を見るこ

一泊1,000円でいいという。 「食事は自分で作ってくれ、

おさらだし、しかもザックを引っぱり上げなくてはな

とができた。それは別のルートとはかけ離れた光景で

わたしの分まで作ってくれれば歓迎だけどね」と彼は

らない。

あった。まるで砕けた黒い歯のような陰鬱な山頂、中

言った。

目的地のコルは視界に捉えているものの近づいて

指を空に向かって突き立てたような挑戦的な岩、周囲

最近は外国人の登山者が多く、主人は浄化槽トイレ

くる気配はまったくない。圧倒的な岩壁は開かれ、そ

の山々はまるで萎縮してしまっているかのように見

の使用方法の説明に困っていた。しかしやっと英語に

こに平らなスロープがありコルへと続いている。日を

えた。北壁の厳しさが北鎌尾根には存在した。だがそ

よる使用方法がトイレに貼られたそうだ。

浴びた暖かい岩はこの辺ぴな渓谷の景色を眺める特

の凄惨なイメージが私の脳裏に焼きつくや否や、北鎌

次の朝、主人と私は日の出を拝むために牛首の山

等席だ。だが山の影が長い指のように急速にこの日な

尾根はふたたび深い雲に覆われてしまった。私は踵を

頂に登った。円盤のような光が、青ざめた地平線に映

たに忍び寄り、一日の半分がもう過ぎてしまったこと

返し、風の吹きすさぶ尾根をつたい、先を急いだ。

りだしたが、すぐに灰色の雲がそれをかき消してし

を示していた。尾根にたどり着く数メートル手前のと

その山小屋は大天井岳と牛首のあいだのコルに

まった。

ころでザックを担いだとき、ふと気づくと穏やかな輪

あった。私のガイドブックによれば、すばらしい槍ヶ

「あそこだ」と主人は北鎌のルートを指し示した。

郭の鷲羽岳とその北側に水晶岳の姿が広がった。私た

岳と360度の眺望とある。すでに午後も遅くなってい

「貧乏沢を下り、北鎌沢の左を登る。貧乏沢は注意

ちのあいだを隔てているものは茶色の砂で刻まれた

たので、私はこの渓谷を下り、一夜を過ごそうと決

したほうがいい、早朝は凍っているからね。北鎌コル

山肌の分水嶺だけだった。

めた。

で支流がふたつに別れるから右手を行くんだ。左には

吹きつける風はさらに冷たく、崖には氷柱があっ

すると山小屋の主人が姿をあらわし、私の装具やヘ

死の罠が待ち受けている。そこで多くの人が死んでい

た。積雪が辺りに点在し、その先にモダンアートのよ

ルメットそしてロープをちらりと見て言った。 「キタ

る」と彼は注意してくれた。

うにロープが垂れ下がっているところがあった。私

カマ？」。私は頷いた。

黒い雲が北から迫ってきた。私たちに吹きつける風

はその末端をつかみクリップし、何度かショックを

1

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29

give it a few bounces. I mantle up to where the terrain becomes a little easier.

The ridgeline leads due north for a few hundred meters before gratefully swinging around to the west.

The afternoon sun heats up the north side of the ridge even as the chill wind whisks it away.

There’s no path here of which to speak. The scant accounts I’d read of the climb suggested "route-finding was paramount" and you may find faint, sporadic traces of a track. The recent typhoon, however, seemed to have scoured the mountain clean of any human activity, so I’d have to rely on intuition.

After traversing several sections, I spot a shiny brasscolored piton sticking out of the rock. I anchor my rope to it and move out across a thin ledge; I sling a solid rock flake on the other side before traversing back to undo the far anchor. Soloing like this is a slow game.

I come upon a short chimney marked by a tattered piece of knotted rope and a rusting piton that moved horrifically in its crack as I tugged on it. I ignored it, took off my pack again and shimmied backwards up the crack.

Once at the top it occurred to me I should have cut off the old rope or kicked out the piton, but now I was out of reach of either.

By mid-afternoon I’d reached a spire with a small, flat top with pleasing views of Yari and the surrounding mountains. I decided to call this home for the night. I built a small wall from rocks to keep the bitter wind at bay, huddled behind it and watched the sun dip into the clouds that cloaked the horizon.

Yari seemed to fill the sky, demanding my attention.

I gazed out along the ridge, trying to make out the lines of the peaks and spires, imagining tomorrow’s route.

Finally, the sun disappeared into the Sea of Japan, and a pale half moon rose to throw its light over Yari's flanks.

I noticed with alarm frost had already settled on my sleeping bag so I hurriedly tucked it into my bivy sack. I had a notion to make a small fire to warm up with before heading to sleep, but after half an hour of scrabbling around in the dark for firewood, I realized I was getting colder.

The mercury hit minus eight as I burrowed into my bag, looking up at stars shooting across the planetarium overhead.

Sleep came in dark, dreamless fits. The biting wind made a mockery of my wall, seeping into the small breathing hole in the bivy bag and chilling my cheeks and nose. Around midnight, nature called. I clambered out, shaking like a loon on this little peak. The thermometer read minus 12, and I was more grateful than ever I’d brought the winter sleeping bag.

Abruptly, a red line across the horizon signaled morning, and with it a cloudless sky. I drank a liter of Earl Grey tea, the last of my water, as the sun creeped above distant mountains, throwing beams of copper light over Yari's austere face.

The first hour was over easy ground and solid rocks.

Next came the first serious down climb, a crumbling tower with loose shale, simple enough but a tiring fight against constantly shifting ground and occasional unnerving rock falls. The thermometer still showed minus 10 on the shaded north side, and the wind ripped in fearsome gusts.

30

Back on the ridge, I traversed to the sunward side and basked there for a few minutes, letting the heat come back to my hands. An easy crack led down to a short traverse and then to a chimney topped with aging slings and rope loops. I added one of my own to the collection before rappelling down into a chimney on the other side.

The rock here was smooth, white limestone, loose and riddled with cracks.

My rope ran out five or so meters from the bottom, and a rising sense of panic started to grip my chest. I forced myself to take slow, deep breaths and considered my options. Climbing down without a rope was out of the question. I laboriously climbed back up to the anchor, traversed over and found a shorter, safer route to the scree below.

Across the talus the going was easier, but the windward side of the ridge was like another world, dark and bitterly cold. The far-off peaks of Mt. Tsurugi and Mt. Tateyama lay to the north, already cloaked in snow, glorious in the bright, late autumn sunshine.

An icy rime covered much of this side of the mountain.

Time and again I had to melt the next foothold with my bare hands, which were now swollen and red with altitude and exertion. The pads of several fingers had split on the cold granite and every sharp edge now seemed to seek out these wounds.

Yari was close now, oppressively towering above.

At this moment I realized that as much as I love the mountains, they don’t think one iota of me.

The last gully led me wearily out of the darkness and cold and onto the ridge for the final time. A flat section of ground marked Kitakama-daira where camp remnants lay scattered around.

With the end in sight, I moved rapidly over the broken blocks that mark the base of Yari's summit pyramid. A quick traverse to the south side followed by 50 meters of easy climbing up the face led to the base of two chimneys, studded with ancient pitons, rusting, useless and mostly unnecessary.

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Kitakama は零下1２度、私はこのときほど冬用のスリーピング バックを購入した喜びを感じたことはなかった。 突然、雲ひとつない地平線に赤いラインが浮かび上 がった。私は最後の１リットルの水でアールグレイの 紅茶を入れて飲んだ。太陽が山並みの上に姿を現す と、赤銅色のビームのような光が厳格な表情の槍ヶ岳 を照らした。 最初の1時間は平坦な岩を越えていくだけで楽だっ た。その後にやっかいな下りが始まった。崩れ落ちた 塔のような堆積岩の地表は平凡のように見えるが、そ こを越えるとなると絶え間なく変化し、また落石の危 険もあった。 北側の日陰では、温度計が零下10度を示し、ぞっと するほどの風が吹き抜けた。日の当たる場所へトラ バースし、そこで数分のあいだ太陽の光を浴び、両手 に感覚が戻ってきた。易しいクラックを短いトラバー スで抜け、しなびたスリングとロープが残置してあっ たチムニーの上部に向かった。そこで私は手持ちの 装備を利用して登ってきたところとは反対側へと懸 与えてみた。ここを越えれば登高が少しは楽になる

垂下降を試みた。その岩はスムースな表面の石灰岩で

だろう。

いたるところにクラックがあった。だが、下降すると

尾根は大きく西に回り込み、そこからは北に数百

ロープが地上に５メートルばかり足りないではない

メートル続いた。 午後の日差しが北側の斜面に当たり、

か。私はパニックに襲われそうになった。深呼吸をし、

冷たい風を押しのけたかのように気温が上昇した。

気持ちを立て直すと最善の方法を考えた。ロープなし

だが進むべき道が判らない。私の乏しい登山語録

でこれ以上下降することはもちろん選択外だ。私は苦

によれば、 「ルートの発見こそが最重要」。だがいつも

心してなんとかそのロープを登りアンカーのところ

ならばルートの手がかりを見つけられるのだが、最近

に戻った。そしてトラバースしながら、もっと短く安

台風が通過してあらゆる痕跡を吹き飛ばしてしまっ

全にガレ場に降りられるルートを捜した。

たようだ。どうやら直感に頼って進むしかない。

ガレ場を横切るのがもっとも簡単そうだが、そこは風

いくつかのセクションをトラバースしたあと、私は

上側で、いうなれば別世界。しかも暗く、凍りつくよ

岩肌に黄銅色に光るピトンが打ち込まれてあるのを

うに寒い。遥か遠くに剣岳と館山の頂上が見える、北

見つけた。私はそれをアンカーにしロープで狭い岩棚

側はすでに雪に覆われ晩秋の美しい光に照らされて

を抜けることができた。そのアンカーを緩めるために

いた。

は、硬いフレークにスリングを掛けてアンカーにし、

槍ヶ岳のこの側は氷のような霜で覆われていたの

ふたたび戻らなければならない。ここが単独行の時間

で、私は足がかりの霜を素手で溶かさなければなら

を食いやすいところだ。

ず、標高の影響と酷使によって手は赤く腫れ上がっ

短いチムニーに近づくと、そこにくたびれたロープ

た。指先は裂け、冷たく鋭い花崗岩がその傷口をもて

と錆びたピトンがあった。私がそれをぐいと引っ張る

あそんだ。

と恐ろしいほどに弛んだので、私はそれを無視して自

今、槍ヶ岳はさらに私に迫り圧倒的なまでに頭上

力でクラックを登ることにした。あの古びたロープと

に立ちはだかった。そのとき、私はこの山をいかに私

錆びたピトンを処理するべきだったと気づいたのは

が愛しているかを悟った。それと同時に、この山はこ

しばらくしてからであった。

れっぽっちも私のことを気にかけていないことをも

午後も遅くなってから私は尖頂の平らなところへ

悟ったのだった。

とたどり着くことができた。そこからは槍ヶ岳と、そ

最後の谷は暗さと寒さ、そして疲労困憊のなかでむ

れに連なる山々のすばらしい景色を見ることができ

かえることとなった。北鎌平というキャンプの跡が残

た。ここを今夜の寝床にしようと決めた私は、石を積

るフラットな地形に着く。遠くに槍ヶ岳のピラミッド

み上げて風よけを作りそこに身を屈め、地平線の雲に

を示す壊れたブロックを発見し、急いでそこに向かっ

消えていく太陽を眺めた。

た。南側にトラバースし、そこから50メートルの簡単

槍ヶ岳は空を覆うがごとく巨大で、私の注意をいや

なクライミングをおこなう。そこに続いてふたつチム

おうもなく引きつけた。私はその山の尾根を注視し、

ニーがあった。そこには錆びて使用できない時代物の

明日の頂上までのルートをイメージした。太陽はつい

ピトンが打ち込まれてあった。南のチムニーは太陽の

に日本海へと沈み、ぼんやりとした半月が槍ヶ岳の山

光に照らされていた。だが重装備で単独行の私がそこ

裾から現れた。

をぶら下がって通過しなければならない。しぶしぶ私

スリーピングバックの中にいても急激な気温の低

は日陰の北側のチムニーに向かった。そこには錆びた

下を感じた私は大急ぎでツェルトを張った。小さな焚

ピトンにくたびれたロープが垂れ下がっていた。

き火をして暖をとったほうがよいと思い、暗闇の中、

それはどうも怪しかったが、私が排除するわけには

薪を捜したがすでに身体は凍えだしていた。

いかない。とにかくもっと簡単に頂上の尾根へと向か

温度計の水銀は零下8度を示した。スリーピング

えるラインを探った。ここだと、私はオーバーハング

バックから見上げる夜空はまさにプラネタリウム

している岩のクラックにナッツを挿んだ。 「確信はな

だった。やがて睡魔に襲われ深い眠りに落ちた。意地

いけど」と私は思った。

の悪い風が積み石の間を抜けてツェルトの空気穴か

尾根を右に回り込むと傾斜したクラックがあった。

ら侵入し、頬や鼻先にちょっかいを仕掛けてきた。深

拳をそこへ深く挿入し、左足で青い岩の後方にある確

夜になりついに尿意をもよおす。私は外に這い出ると

実な位置へと飛びついた。左手を高く伸ばして三本の

尖頭に立つ愚か者のように身体を震わせた。温度計

指でわずかな手がかりを掴んだ。敏捷に、かつ的確に

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31

Kitakama

The southern chimney gleamed in the sun, but with my pack on and climbing solo, I couldn’t wedge my way up without perilously overhanging the valley below.

Reluctantly, I returned to the sunless north chimney, noting the rotting rope that draped down from a rusting piton at the top.

The pack again proved problematic, but I was loathed to remove it. I spied a better line to the right and quickly squeezed my way up to the ledge at the top. Here, though, the rock rose again to a severe overhang. A single metal nut was wedged into a crack just above head height. “Surely not this way,” I thought.

I rounded a corner of the ledge to the right and found a series of diagonally sloping cracks. My fist dug deep and tight into the first, my left foot hopping to a solid placement behind a blue fin of rock. Reaching high, my

left hand found a thin hold for the pads of three fingers.

A quick, coordinated pull and my right foot was neatly jammed high in the crack. With one more push I was there, clambering onto the summit, much to the surprise of the two old ladies who reposed there.

Too dehydrated and exhausted to speak, I could only motion in the general direction of the ridge when they asked where I had come from. They shrieked and jabbered while peering over the edge, then quickly pulling back and gripping their fists.

At the little shrine on the summit, I pulled off my helmet and thanked the gods. The mountains were arrayed in every direction, crystal clear in the cold air, from Fuji in the south to Tsurugi north.

I’d survived Kitakama. ✤

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

引き寄せた右足を高い位置のクラックへ押し込む。頂

頂上に据えられた小さな祠の前で私はヘルメット

上へ這うように、確実にゆっくりと自分自身を押し上

を脱ぎ、神に感謝した。

げる。

四方から連なる山々の景色と冷たく清涼な空気、南

頂上に着くと、そこで休んでいた年輩の女性ふたり

には富士山、そして北にそびえる剣岳を望むことがで

が驚いたように私を見つめた。脱水症状で話すのも

きた。

やっとだった私は、彼女たちの問いには答えずに黙っ

私はついにキタカマを完登した。✤

て登ってきた尾根を指し示した。彼女たちはその尾根 を見下ろすと悲鳴を上げ、なにか口走り両手を強く握 りしめた。

32

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K

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33

Fire & Water 火と水で遊ぶ和 歌 山

By Lee Dobson

When locals in Kansai head to the beaches and the mountains for a little summer respite, many find themselves in Wakayama Prefecture. With mild weather year-round, a long coastline providing ample fishing and diving spots, and mountains galore, Osaka’s southern neighbor offers ways-a-plenty to hit the outdoors and soak up some culture. Rafting spots and hot springs also dot the landscape.

関西エリアでは、夏の休暇といえば和歌山のビーチや山へ出かける人が多い。 釣りやダイビングに最適なビーチとともに山に囲まれたこの温暖な大阪南部のエリアは、 アウトドアと伝統文化を楽しむのにおすすめだ。また、ラフティングを楽しんだり、温泉も各所に点在している。 このエリアの特徴といえば日本一を誇るフルーツの生産量だ。梅と柿、そしてみかんが名産である。

34

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35

36

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Fire & Water

T

oday’s journey takes us to the Kii mountain range, which makes up for a major part of Wakayama’s mass, and is home to some of Japan’s most significant shrines and pilgrimage routes. Their importance was recognized in July of 2004, when UNESCO designated the sites of Mt. Koya (Koya-san) and Kumano (Kumano Sanzen – Three Grand Shrines Kumano), along with the connecting trails (Koyasan Choishimichi and Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes) as World Heritage sites.

Kumano Nachi-Taisha (shrine) located in NachiKatsuura-cho is one of the three grand shrines of Kumano; the others being Kumano Hongu-Taisha and Kumano Hayatama-Taisha. Kumano Nachi-Taisha includes the 133-meter high Nachi Falls (Nachi-no-Otaki), home to the spirit Hiryū Gongen who is worshipped at the shrine.

An interesting aside; Wakayama produces more fruit such as Japanese apricots, persimmons and mandarins, than anywhere else in Japan.

In July, when summer temperatures begin to soar and the heat becomes unbearable, the falls and the surrounding evergreens offer a place to cool your heels.

One of the scenes to greet your eyes is that of the granite steps, plunging down among the tall pines that line both sides of the path.

As your eyes adjust to the dimness of the forest, you will also appreciate the silence and, for just a moment, you’ll lose yourself in time. Make your way farther down the path, and silence gives way to the sound of water spiraling down the tall rock face at a rate of one ton per second.

The silence becomes a roar.

さ

て本日、みなさんをお連れするのは紀伊山地。紀 伊半島南の大半を占める山地であり、有名な寺院

や参詣道がある。この地の重要性が再認識されたのは

2004 年の7月、高 野 山と熊 野 三 千 六 百 峰、高 野 山 町 石道と熊野古道がユネスコの世界遺産に認定されたと きだ。 熊野那智大社は那智勝浦町にある熊野三山のひと つ。ほかに、熊野本宮大社と熊野速玉大社がある。熊 野那智大社は133メートルの那智の滝でも知られ、ここは 飛龍権現と呼ばれた神の御座所とされている。 気温がぐんと上昇し、たえられないほどの暑さとなる7月 には、滝や周辺に生い茂る緑にほっとひと息つけるはず だ。ここのもうひとつの憩いの場、背の高い松の木のあ いだを下る花崗岩の石段もおすすめだ。 林の薄暗さに目が慣れてきたらその静けさを楽しみ、ほ んの一瞬でもいいから時間を忘れてほしい。小道をさらに 下ると、背の高い岩の表面を1 秒に1トンという速さでらせ ん状にかけおりる水の音が静けさを破る。

那智の火祭り 毎年 7月14日には那智の火祭りが開催され、日本全国 から信者や観光客が集まる。高さ６メートル、扇や鏡で飾 られた12 基の朱色の神輿が寺から滝へと向かう。 それぞれの神輿は熊野に住む12の御神体を表す、重 さ50kgもある大きな松明が出迎える。午後になると林の 中を大きな歓声とともに、火のつけられた松明は石段を 登っては下りを繰り返し、登る距離が毎回長くなっていく。 行進のペースは歓喜とともにどんどん早くなり、松明を ぐるぐるとまわしだすと、ようやく神輿と出会い、松明の炎 が神輿を迎え清める。そして進むペースはよりいっそう早 くなり、松明は観客の頭の上をまわり、滝の前へと進ん

Nachi no Himatsuri

でいく。滝の前で行進が終わると、ここで舞と祈りの儀

Each year on July 14, spectators and worshipers flock from all over Japan to watch the spectacle of the Nachi Fire Festival.

Twelve vermilion mikoshi (portable shrines), six meters tall and decorated with Japanese fans and mirrors, start the day at the shrine before being brought down to the falls in the afternoon.

A large pine torch, weighing 50 kilograms, accompanies each shrine. The torches represent the 12 deities living in the Kumano area. In the early afternoon a great cry goes up and echoes throughout the forest. The torches are lit, and the bearers begin carrying them up the stairs and down again in ever broadening circles. With each loop, they make their way farther up the path before running back down again.

As the procession continues, the pace and the frenzy increase, and the bearers begin to move the torches around in wild circles. Finally the procession of mikoshi meets the torches and the flames are used to purify them. At this point the pace is frantic, and the torches are waved over the heads of the onlookers as the motion begins to concentrate in a small area in front of the falls.

Finally things come to a standstill. A ritualistic dance is performed in front of the falls, prayers are offered to the gods, and it is over just as quickly as it began.

It is a dynamic festival and well worth seeing.

了を迎える。那智の火祭りは一見の価値があるとてもダ

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式がとりおこなわれ、始まりと同じようにあっという間に終 イナミックなお祭りだ。

37

Fire & Water Traditional Log Rafting Another way to beat the heat in Wakayama is to enjoy the 600-year-old tradition of log rafting on the Kumano River. This is a one-of-a-kind experience in Japan and is unique to Kitayama Village. Logging was once prevalent here and, after being felled from nearby forests, the lumber was assembled into long log rafts and ridden down to the mouth of the river to Shingu on the coast.

Rafts are piloted by three oarsmen, two at the front and one at the rear, who use their long, narrow-bladed oars to prevent the logs from hitting rocks while staying on track.

The logs are ridden standing up and, while it looks a little hairy, it is suitable for kids as well. There are plenty of stretches where you are invited to sit down and dip your feet in calm and cool waters.

To hit both requires at least a two-day trip, and I recommend staying at the Okutoro Park resort which has bungalows and space for camping. You can book tickets for the log rafting there, and a bus will pick you up and drop you off after the river journey. There is a hot spring there along with a store to pick up local goodies such as honey and local lemon specialties.

The prices are reasonable, and the park also serves as the local stop for buses running from JR Kumano Station to Komatsu. The park is right on the river, so you can fish if you feel inclined or just enjoy the view. ✤

38

いかだ下り 和歌山でその暑さを忘れるもうひとつのおすすめは、

600 年におよぶ伝統を誇る、熊野川でのいかだ下りだ。 日本でもこれが体験できるのは北山村のみ。かつて木材 の伐採はこのエリアでは盛んにおこなわれており、近隣 の林から伐採された丸太で長いいかだを作り、河口から 新宮へと下るのに使われていた。 いかだは漕ぎ手が三人、ひとりが前で、ひとりが後 ろ。後ろの漕ぎ手は長くて幅の細いオールを使って岩を 避けたり、舵の役目をはたす。いかだには立って乗り、少 し危なそうに見えなくもないが、子どもも楽しむことができ る。いかだでゆっくりと下りながら、冷たい川の水に足を ひたすのも気持ちがいい。 ご紹介したアクティビティふたつをこなすには最低 2 泊 は必要で、宿泊先におすすめなのは、バンガローがある おくとろ公園のキャンプ場だ。いかだ下りの予約と送迎も ここで頼むことができる。温泉もあり、地元名産のはちみ つやレモンなどの土産物屋も充実している。価格は良心 的で、JR 熊野駅から小松を結ぶ地元のバスの停留所も ある。公園は川のすぐそばにあるので、釣りもいいし、眺 めももちろん最高だ。✤

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39

Fire & Water

GETTING THERE

A regular bus runs from Katsuura Station and Nachi Station, directly to Nachisan. From here you can walk to the falls in about 10 minutes. For details on bus timetables for both locations please refer to the Web site: www.tb-kumanao.jp/ en/transport/bus/#localtimetables

WEB CONNECTION

Nachi Fire Festival: www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/spot/festival/nachinohi.html Kumano: www.tb-kumano.jp/en/ Kitayama and Okutoro Park: www.vill.kitayama.wakayama.jp

アクセス

那智山へは勝浦駅と那智駅からバスが出ている。 駅から滝までは徒歩 10分、バスの時刻表はこちらでご確認を。

www.tb-kumano.jp/access/

ウェブサイト Kumano: www.tb-kumano.jp Kitayama and Okutoro Park: www.vill.kitayama.wakayama.jp

40

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41

THE KUTAI U P N E T

OF 、 いう名の ラリーマンたち と 隊 覆 転 ゃないサ じ ー ツ フ n, yet d brethre

e gray-suit like their rs rder. u a o h h n s e lay ev tireles p rk d o n a w y rd e ha Th れど、 rld work larymen. にいるけ だ。 ising wo する組織 erage sa rt v を e a v 事 r d u 仕 a つらなの o y に ’s や re not Japan イジーな a み、猛烈 f i o レ つ ta ク n つ u e の k を m u こ 身 ad ツに それが f Tenp These m ーのスー と遊ぶ、 embers o pe ends. そしてもっ 15人はグレ 、 ty の o き The 15 m そ 働 re 。 に te だ s ハード ere the ーマンたち 告業界で いサラリ that’s wh 日本の広 ツーじゃな ない。 フ じてい い）は、 には甘ん てんぷくた オタイプ レ 転覆隊（ テ ス りの てお決ま かといっ

oss

By Bill R

42

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2 0 1 3

T

ake a moment to consider the plight of the Japanese salaryman. Long hours in soulless offices; the surrender of self to a commitment to the company; a slow progression up the corporate escalator; accepting golf as the amusement of choice (especially if it’s a smooth ride up the escalator), which inevitably leads to phantom clubswinging on train platforms — or even while still riding the train.

After decades of toiling for the greater good, retirement earns him a return to a house he hardly knows and no particular hobbies or interests on which to fall back. This is, of course, a stereotype, but if you spend any time in Japan’s major cities, you have known this creature well, or perhaps you have become one yourself.

Then there is Tenpukutai™. The name roughly translates to “Capsizing Crew,” an alliterative to the original, and tells what they like to do — get outside and paddle and

ま

flip over some boats. All 15 members are salarymen.

“It was just me and a few friends at Dentsu when I started it 25 years ago,” says Tenpukutai taicho (leader) Ryo Honda. “We didn’t know a thing about paddling, but we thought it sounded like fun, so we decided to give it a try.

“We started paddling in jeans,” he laughs, “and carried our stuff in garbage bags. Later, we found out about dry bags, we got more experienced, and we started to get more ambitious.”

Ambitious, and also — for a bunch of salarymen — unexpectedly quirky. Over the past 25 years, Honda says, the group has run some 50 rivers in Japan and abroad.

Tenpukutai has ventured to Alaska, Canada, the Amazon, Kamchatka, Mongolia, New Zealand and Madagascar.

“We’ve done some of the same rivers in Japan, but it’s a Tenpukutai rule that we never go down the same river

twice the same way,” he explains. “Groups usually go to a river with which they are familiar, but we always try to go somewhere new. If it’s a place we’ve been before, we’ll start from a different place or do it in a different style. I doubt if there’s any other group quite like us in Japan.”

Yuzo “Mario” Nishihashi, one of the founding members, agrees. “We have got to be one of the craziest, worst kayaking groups in Japan,” he says with what can only be called a giggle. “We’ve done a lot of stuff that should have gotten somebody killed. We didn’t really know about ocean currents until we tried to cross the 45 kilometers or so from Honshu to Sado Island, but we learned quickly.

“We like bakanakoto (stupid things),” he continues, “like playing too much, drinking too much, eating too much, night boating. We’re trying to do something to make an un-genki Japan a lot more genki. Nothing as big as Yuichiro Miura climbing Everest; we just want to do

ずは日本のサラリーマンの悲哀について考えてみる。 トをひっくり返そうぜ」というもの。メンバーは15人で、全員

ルールがあるのです」と本田は続ける。 「行き慣れた川に行

彼らは退屈なオフィスで長時間の労働を強いられなが

くとします。でも必ず新しい場所に行くようにするんです。別

らも、会社には忠誠を誓わされる。しかしながら出世のエス

がサラリーマン。 「25年まえに、私と電通の同僚たちとではじめたんです」

カレーターは遅い。休日は会社の同僚たちとのゴルフに駆

と転覆隊の隊長である本田亮は語る。 「パドルのしかたも

り出され、それでも少しはエスカレーターの速度が上がるか

知らなかったのですが、面白そうだなってそれだけで挑戦した

も、というはかない望みを抱きつつ駅のプラットフォームや、

んですよ」。

の場所から別のスタイルややり方を変えるんです。日本にこ のようなグループが、ほかにあるでしょうか」。 創設時からのメンバーであるマリオこと西橋裕三は、 「私 たちは日本のいちばんクレイジーで最悪のカヤッカーになる

ときには電車のなかでスイングのチェックに没頭してしまう。

「ジーンズ姿でパドリングしました」と本田は笑う。 「荷物

ことが使命なんですよ」と不敵に笑みを浮かべた。 「死んで

数十年の精勤のすえ、定年を迎えた彼に与えられた償い

は濡れないようにとゴミ袋に入れました。ドライバックを知っ

もおかしくないようなことをやり遂げてきました。海流のこと

といえば、家に戻りこれからなにをやっていいのか判らない

たのはあとになってからでしたよ。そして経験を重ねていきな

も知らないのに本州から佐渡まで45kmを渡ったこともありま

自分をそこに発見し愕然とすること。これが日本のサラリー

がら、野望がしだいに芽生えてきたんです」。

す。おかげですぐに海のことを判らされました」と西橋。 「私

マンのステレオタイプ、つまり典型である。でもこれは人ごと

野望だって？ サラリーマンが口にするとは予想外だ。本

ではない、日本の都会にいればこの類いの生物を観察する

田によると過去25年間でこのグループは海外も合わせて約

ことができるが、知らず知らずのうちにあなたもその同類に

50 ヶ所もの川を下ったのだという。そしてその冒険に訪れた 『うんと元 気 』<訳 注：un-genki? Maybe its unto-gennki>。

染まってしまうこともあるのだ。 そして転覆隊の登場だ。この名前は英語で意味するとこ

たちは『バカなこと』が好きなんです。遊び過ぎ、飲み過ぎ、 食べ過ぎ、夜中にボートを漕いだりと『元気』のさらに上の

地域はアラスカ、アマゾン、カムチャッカ、モンゴル、ニュー

でも三浦雄一郎みたいにエベレストに登ってやろうなんて考

ジーランドそしてマダガスカルと堂々たるもの。

えてはいません。一般の人にはできないことを目指している

ろの「Capsizing Crew：ひっくり返し班」とでも表現できるだ

「日本では同じ川を数回下ったことがあります。でも転覆

ろう。彼らの目的は、 「野外に飛び出し、パドルを漕いでボー

隊のルールでは同じ川を同じように下ってはならないという

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んです」。 彼らはどんなときにでもプライドだけは忘れずにいるようだ

43

what most people won’t.”

They do take a lot of pride in their crashes, but more about that later. The group’s rules, available at their Web site (www.tenpukutai.com) are likewise a bit eccentric.

Although many people have tried to enter the Tenpukutai ranks, it’s no easy task since the number of members doesn’t change.

“Lots of people want to join, but 15 is the best on a river,” Honda says. “More than that and it just gets too stressful. As far as women…yes, we’re a discriminatory organization,” he says with a laugh. “Ninety percent of

the members are married, and we’re all kind of like those awkward, un-sporty kids who happened to grow up.”

They hint that most women probably wouldn’t want to hang out with these big boys anyway.

“Golf is an unnatural way to have fun,” he says.

“Several of the members are salespeople, so of course they get invited to play golf. They used to say, ‘I’m in Tenpukutai, so I can’t,’ but now, at least at Dentsu, the others have just given up, and say, ‘Oh, yeah, he’s Tenpukutai, so shoganai!’”

It’s not clear how the ramen restriction came about, but they do seem to eat well otherwise on their forays into the wild.

The adventures aren’t only on rivers. “We’re a sogo autodoa group,” Honda says. That translates roughly to “a comprehensive outdoor organization.”

“Basically we go out about five times a year; it's pretty

much wherever I feel like going,” he laughs.

The group climbs up mountains and canyons, and on bicycles. The common theme seems to be finding ways to do things the hard way.

“I was in the mountain climbing club in college,” Honda says, “but in Tenpukutai we don’t do normal climbing.”

Instead they might carry their bikes with them, as they did to the top of Mt. Fuji, before riding down.

“We’ve done that on lots of peaks,” Honda says with some delight.

They also have taken on several challenges on the humble mamachari — the simple bicycles used by urban women to deliver kids and pick up groceries. One such multiple-stage trip followed the sacred Buddhist pilgrimage route on Shikoku Island. The quirky adventure took one year covering 1,200 kilometers, on these onespeed bikes, while wearing the conical straw hats and

が、でもそれ以外のことは、事が起きてから考えるようだ。じ

ちはいわゆるスポーツ少年として育ったのではないんです」。

気分かな」と本田は笑う。

つはこのグループには掟があり、彼らのふざけたウェブサイト

つまり、彼らは女性の扱いに不得手だという意味がそこ

• The group size is limited to 15 people.

• Women are not allowed.

• Golfers will be excommunicated.

• Seconds on ramen are strictly forbidden.

に掲載されている。(www.tenpukutai.com)

に含まれているのだろう。

彼らは山や渓谷を登ったり、ときには自転車を使うことも ある。その活動の信条は、 より過酷なやり方でというものだ。

「ゴルフを純粋な遊びととらえるには不自然じゃないかと

「大学で山岳部に所属していましたが、転覆隊は普通の

思うんですよ」と本田。 「メンバーには営業職に就いている

登山はしません」と本田。 「富士山に登ったときは、自転車

• 隊員数は最大で15名とす。

者もいますので、ゴルフに誘われることがあるんです。だか

をかつぎ頂上から駆け下りました」。

• 女人禁制とす。

ら『転覆隊ですからゴルフはできないんです』と断ってきまし

• ゴルフをする者は破門とす。

た。いまでは少なくとも電通社内では『転覆隊ならしかたが

• ラーメンのお替わり、厳禁とす。

ないですね』と認められるようになってきました」。

転覆隊鬼の鉄則！

（転覆隊ウェブサイトより抜粋） この掟があっても入隊を願う者は多いという。だがメン

「すでにいろいろな山で試しています」と本田は目を輝か せた。 彼らはまたママチャリを使っていろいろな挑戦もしている。

さて最後の掟であるラーメンについてはどのような意味

ママチャリとは日本の主婦が子どもの送迎や買物に利用す

があるのだろうか、おそらくそれは大自然と向かい合うために

る実用的な自転車のことだ。彼らはそのママチャリで四国

日頃から摂生しろということなのだろう。

の霊場を巡礼した。1年を掛けて1,200kmを走破したのだっ

さらに彼らの冒険は川だけに留まらない。 「総合アウト

た。もちろん巡礼者とおなじ笠や白装束を身につけた。真

い人は多いのですが、川を下るには15人がベストなのです」 ドアグループなんです」と本田はいう。それは英語で「a

夏に東京からねぷた祭の青森までママチャリで向かったこと

バーの定員数は変わらないので入隊は難しい。 「入隊した と本田は語る。 「それ以上だとストレスになる。女性が入ると

comprehensive outdoor organization；総括的な野外組織」 もある。そして今年は３年を掛けたママチャリ・アドベンチャー

なおさらです。つまり私たちは差別的な組織ということになり

という意味になる。

ます」と彼は笑う。 「9割のメンバーは既婚です。それに私た

44

がスタートした。それは俳人松尾芭蕉で有名な「奥の細道」

「年5回ぐらい活動をおこないます。行きさきはそのときの

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が舞台となったルートだ。

THE TENPUK UTA

I

OF

転覆隊と フツーじ いう名の、 ゃないサ ラリーマ

ンたち

white vests of devoted pilgrims.

They also bicycled in costume and on mamachari, in the heat of summer from Tokyo to the famous Nebuta Matsuri in Aomori. This year has seen the start of a threeyear mamachari adventure, again in stages, on the Oku no Hosomichi, the route made famous by the celebrated poet Matsuo Basho in the “Narrow Road to the Deep North.”

We’re all salarymen, so time is limited,” says Nishihashi, also a Dentsu man. “We can only go out for a few nights at a time, so we can cover about 300 kilometers on each trip. Three years might be a bit overly ambitious,” he jokes.

Honda no longer works at Dentsu, Japan’s largest ad agency, having gone full-time freelance a few years ago.

About half the current members are from Dentsu, half from elsewhere, although there still is an advertising connection for most.

Honda has recently been doing more work on photography, manga and books, such as his “Mamachari wo Henro 1,200 km.” (1,200-Kilometer Pilgrimage

by Mamachari), chronicling the Shikoku expedition.

With outdoor magazine Be-Pal (Shogakukan), he has also produced an outdoor cookbook, “Tenpukutai Takibi Ryori” (Tenpukutai Campfire Cooking).

The book gives some insight into the group. The recipes are excellent and perfect for anyone who enjoys outdoor cooking, but while there are beautiful photos of the finished dishes, the main photos are always of a boat in some form of distress — overturned, with the paddler in the water; kayaks wrapped around rocks, broken, never to float down the river again. The faces are smiling in defeat — wet, shivering, holding battered bits of boat, and loving it.

A DVD of the group, also produced with Be-Pal, shows

電通マンの西橋はいう 「私たちはサラリーマンだから一度

しょ濡れになり寒さに凍えながらカヤックの残骸を握りしめる

に使える休みはほんの数日、それでカバーできる距離は一 度に300km。それを3年となるとちょっと野望というにはいささ か長過ぎるかなあ」と笑う。

彼らだが、そこは笑顔があり、見ていて微笑ましく感じさせる。 彼らの映像を収めたDVDもBe-Palから販売されていて、さ らに生き生きとしたイメージがほとばしる。世界のベストパド

本田は日本最大の広告代理店である電通を数年まえに

ラーとは遠く離れた存在の彼らだが、蚊の大群に襲われた

退職しフリーランスとなった。現在のメンバーは半分が電

り、また南アメリカでは野犬の群れと鉢合わせ、渓谷の激

通の社員で、残りはそれ以外の職業をもっているが、いず

流の岩からやっとのことで免れたりと非日常的な喜びを感じ

れにせよ広告業界との関わりがある。本田の最近の仕事

ているし、それこそが彼らの求めているものでもある。入隊

は写真や漫画の印刷媒体が多い。たとえば四国の霊場を

には高いハードルがあるとはいえ、この転覆隊の情熱からは

走破した記録『ママチャリお遍路1,200km 』、アウトドア雑誌

それでも入隊を希望したくなる魅力の存在を感じざるをえな

『 Be-Pal（ 』小学館）からはアウトドア・クックブック『サラリー

い。さらに彼らの本やビデオからは見て楽しいだけでなくいろ

マン転覆隊焚き火料理』 をプロデュースした。 これらの本からはこのグループの内側を垣間みることがで きるし、料理のレシピはだれもが楽しめるように構成されてい

it even more vividly. These guys are far from the best paddlers in the world. They take inordinate pleasure in recalling tales of being attacked by hordes of mosquitoes, packs of half-wild South American dogs or just barely getting up the rocks of a backwater canyon. Maybe that’s the whole idea.

The group’s enthusiasm is contagious and inviting, even though no one has much chance at becoming a Tenpukutai member. Their books and videos are fun to watch and clever (they are ad men, after all). It doesn’t feel exclusionary — if anything, it makes you think, “Hey, I could do that too.”

Hopefully people pick up on the message, and more salarymen might get out of the city, into the wild and gleefully throw themselves into some crazy adventure. ✤

いろな賢いヒントも得ることができる （そこはやっぱり広告マ ンだからね） 。それにやっぱり感じることは、そこに参加して みたくなるってこと。 「ヘイ、おれにだってできるよ」とね。

る。器に盛りつけられた料理の写真はたいへん美しい、しか

願わくば、彼らのメッセージからなにかを感じてくれたサラ

し中心となす写真は、岩に乗り上げてカヤックを大破し水の

リーマンたちが街を飛び出し、大自然でクレイジーな冒険に

なかでもがくパドラーのような、過酷な状況のものが多い。び

身を投じ、人生の喜びを見いだしてくれればいいと思う。✤

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45

THE TENPUK UTA

I

OF

転覆隊と フツーじ いう名の、 ゃないサ ラリーマ

ンたち

Tenpukutai Timeline

これまでの転覆隊の主な活動 千曲川にて転覆隊宣言 ユーコン川を下る 長良川を下る 四万十川を下る 吉野川・大歩危小歩危を下る 北山川を下り遭難騒ぎ 佐渡海峡横断に挑戦 知床半島をカヌーで一周 マウンテンバイクで富士山を滑降 カムチャツカ・ヴィストラヤ川を下る 北海道・風蓮川を下る カナダ・テスリン川を下る 台風直下の西表島

ニュージーランド・ショットオーバー川＆クレアランス川を下る アマゾン川上流部を下る 妙義山でロッククライミング モンゴル・エグ川を下る 丹波川で沢登り ママチャリでお遍路に挑戦 東京湾花火大会にカヌーで乱入 ギアナ高地・ロライマ山に登る マダガスカル・リリー川を下る 北海道・阿寒川を下る 西表島ジャングル横断＆カヌー半周 ニュージーランドを徒歩、自転車、 カヌーで横断 屋久島を徒歩で縦断

46

1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013

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Tenpukutai is born on the Shinano River in Nagano yukon River canoe in Canada Nagara River canoe in Gifu Shimanto River canoe in Kochi yoshino River (Oboke & Koboke canyons) canoe in Shikoku Kitayama River canoe in Wakayama (accident occurred) Attempted to cross the straight to Sado Island in Niigata Canoed around Shiretoko Peninsula in Hokkaido Mountain-biked down Mt. Fuji Bistraya River in Kamchatka Furen River canoe in Hokkaido Teslin River canoe in Canada Circumnavigation by canoe of Iriomote Island in Okinawa while a typhoon was approaching Shotover River and Clarence River canoe in New Zealand Canoe upper reaches of the Amazon River Mt. Myogi rock climbing in Gunma Eg River canoe in Mongolia Taba River gorge and shower climbing in yamanashi Shikoku Pilgrimage on“mamachari ” Joined the Tokyo Bay Fireworks Festival“guerilla-style”by canoe Climbed Mt. Roraima in Guiana Shield, South America Lily River canoe in Madagascar Akan River canoe in Hokkaido Crossing Iriomote Jungle and a half circumnavigation by canoe Crossed New Zealand by foot, bicycle and canoe Traveled across yakushima on foot

2 0 1 3

H S A D R O I R Y R R E A L W L A ) G O anagawa (K T O esort R H P 15-16 at Sagamiko NEXT IOR DASH! RR 3 June

201 iba) , 8 2 7 July 2 Mura (Ch

WA

u o Doits rmation at y k o T t o A jp and inf Tickets rdash. o i r r a www.w

Story &

Rock photos by Tim

Down Unde グアムの海底探索

Whether you enjoy a leisurely afternoon snorkel with the family or go deep into one of the famous dive sites, there’s plenty to explore beneath Micronesia’s ‘Big Island.’ 家族でシュノーケルを楽しむにしろ、有名なダイビングスポットへ潜るにしろ、 ミクロネシアの「ビッグアイランド」にはだれもが楽しめる場所がいっぱいある。

48

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Island Beat

Japan Islandsâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Micronesia

er in Guam

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49

C

lear, blue and deep, Blue Hole, located off central Guam, is the island’s most popular dive site. Divers float down a buoy line to a depth of 60 feet where a giant hole in the upper reef appears.

Drop into the hole and an eerie blue light glows beneath you as you float in a vertical shaft to a depth of more than 100 feet. Suddenly a huge natural window appears. Divers dip under this archway, and there it is, the open reef. Whale sharks and sailfish often cruise by, along with big dogtooth tuna.

The wall is full of golden and square spot anthias. It is quite a thrill to come to the edge of narcosis and then swim back up the wall into the shallows again. One can easily see why this dive is one of the western Pacific’s top novelty dives.

Guam has the richest coral reef marine environment of any United States territory or state. More than 700 fish species and nearly 400 kinds of corals thrive, creating great biodiversity. The island, located in western Microsia, has a historic past that includes shipwrecks and other remnants of WWI, WWII and even the gold bearing Manila Galleon trading days.

Guam’s topography features volcanic regions in the south and limestone forest to the north. This geologic

50

combination extends undersea providing steep, dramatic dropoffs and even a barrier reef island in the south called Cocos Island. The coastal areas are pocked with protected bays and coves divers don’t even need a boat to enjoy. The north provides coral reef flats, caves and swim-throughs.

Spoiled with consistently warm and clear water, Guam divers enjoy easy year-round diving. Easily the largest island in Micronesia, Guam is also the most developed, and it offers something for everyone. Major hotels, great restaurants, trendy beach bars and beautiful natural attractions such as waterfalls and secluded beaches all make it a great destination for everyone, whether you are a diver or just looking for a beach holiday.

Guam is by far one of the safest dive destinations in the world as well. It has U.S. Coast Guard and Navy-patrolled waters, and dive boats are all certified through the Coast Guard. The boats carry oxygen and safety equipment and there are Navy and civilian recompression chambers for treatment of any possible diving accident on island.

Orote Peninsula and Agat Bay The Orote Peninsula is one of the most popular dive SUMMER

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regions on Guam, as it offers a protected bay accessible to divers most of the year. In addition, the area is known for its water clarity. Facing the open Philippine Sea, the reefs here drop off abruptly to great depths.

The dive site is great for all levels. The variety of fish and healthy coral gardens make it a popular place to do photography and marine observation. There are also good reefs for night diving. The Blue Hole, also in this area, has flashlight fish that light up the walls at night like fireflies.

Just down the peninsula from the Blue Hole is the Shark Pit. This is the site of WWII military dumping. The dive site is actually a big natural stone coral-covered pinnacle that comes to within 10 to 15 feet of the surface. Divers enter at the top of the pinnacle and descend along its sides.

Many war artifacts, such as tracked vehicles, can be found here. But the fish life is also prolific with pyramid butterfly schools and even the occasional ornate ghost pipefish in the sea fans.

The military debris is still recognizable and not too overgrown. The remnants of vehicles have become home to fish and invertebrates. Below the large rock, in deeper water, are current-fed sea whips that are bright red when lit by a light.

Island Beat

Japan Islands–Micronesia BEyOND TUMON タモンの向こう側

Visitors spend most of their time in the Tumon area, but Guam features limestone forests in the north and rolling low mountains in the south. Spend a day exploring the lush jungles, waterfalls and secluded bays away from the tourist epicenter.

People are generally friendly and each village is t want to miss. unique. Here are five places you won’ 1. Two Lover’s Point: Although quite touristy, the view of Tumon from the lofty platform of this legendary Guam cliff is well worth the short s beautiful drive. Look straight down on Guam’ spur-and-groove reefs.

2. Ritidian Nature Preserve: Jungle hikes, sandy beaches and a great little nature center make this federal preserve well worth a day trip. On a clear day, you can see Rota from the overlook.

3. Cocos Island: Guam has its own barrier reef island in the south covered in coconut trees and swarming with birds and flowers. Enjoy a day on the island and see a koko, an endemic Guam bird.

4. Tarzan Falls: Get out your hiking shoes and be sure to wear a swimsuit underneath your shorts. Located in the center of the island, the hike through the hills ends at a river and a nice, cooling falls. Look for wild shrimp in the stream.

5. Sella Bay/Cetti Bay: Park at the Sella Bay overlook and follow the trail down through the hills to a historic Spanish bridge. When it is calm, one can snorkel on the reefs and walk along the beach to the next bay, which is Cetti Bay. Bring plenty of water for both Tarzan Falls t short hikes and and the bays, as these aren’ they are in the tropical sun.

Any time you are driving around Guam’ s east t want coast, there are two landmarks you don’ s Pirate’ s Cove in Ipan is famous for to miss. Jeff’ burgers and beachside setting. It has a great its ’ s lost museum that is free and documents Guam’ war Japanese straggler Shoichi Yokoi. s in Malojloj is owned by a long-time McKraut’ Guam resident originally from Germany. The vast beer selection of imports (bottles and on draft) is legendary, and the authentic German food is reasonably priced, delicious and filling (try the ham hocks and kraut).

グ

アム中央部の沖、クリアブルーが印象的な深い「ブ

にはフラットなコーラルリーフや洞窟なども豊富だ。

ルーホール」はもっともポピュラーなダイビングスポット

一年を通して温暖な気候と透明度の高い海水のおかげ

だ。ダイバーたちは、リーフの上に見える巨大な穴へ向けて

で、グアムは一年中ダイバーを楽しませてくれる。また、ミクロ

60フィートの深さにブイラインを浮かべる。

ネシア最大のこの島は開発が進んでいて、ホテルやレストラ

100フィート以上の深さの穴を垂直に潜ると、不気味な青

ン、 トレンディなビーチバーなども充実しているが、また人気

い光が真下に見えてくる。そして、急に目の前に現れるの

の少ないビーチや山あいに落ちる滝などの豊かな自然を楽し

は自然が作り出した窓だ。ダイバーたちはここを通り抜けて、

むこともできる。ここグアムはダイバーにも、またビーチでのん

ジンベイザメやヒトデがイソマグロと泳ぐリーフへと抜ける。

びりしたいビーチコマーにも、だれでもが楽しめる島といえる。

このウォールは、スミレナガハナダイなどの魚が多数生息

また、グアムは世界でもっとも安全なダイビングスポットで

している。ボンベのエアーが残り少なくなるのを感じながら、

あることも忘れてはならない。合衆国の沿岸警備隊や海軍

壁をつたって浅瀬に戻るのはとてもスリル満点で、この場所

がつねに巡回しているし、ダイビングボートはすべて沿岸警

が太平洋西部のダイビングスポットの中でトップであることも

備隊認定のものである。すべてのボートには酸素ボンベや

うなずける。 アメリカ全土、およびアメリカ領のどこよりもずば抜けたサ

安全設備が装備されているほか、万が一のダイビング事故 に備えて、海軍および民間では高圧室が用意されている。

ンゴ礁を誇るグアムには、700種以上の魚と400種以上の サンゴが鮮やかな生物多様性を生み出している。西ミクロ

オロテ半島とアガット湾

ネシアのこの島には第一次、第二次世界大戦の名残の沈 船や、スペインの貿易船マニラ・ガレオンの財宝の歴史を 垣間見ることもできる。 グアムは南部には火山が、北部には石灰岩地帯が広が るが、このふたつの島の地質は海底でも同様に広がり、迫 真のドロップオフや、南部にあるココス島のような堡礁島を

グアムでも人気の高いダイビングスポットのひとつが、風 が遮へいされた静かな湾があるオロテ半島。ここは水の透 明度の高さが有名で、一年を通して楽しむことができる。フィ リピン海に面しており、 ドロップオフのサンゴ礁が特徴だ。 ダイビングスポットはあらゆるレベルのダイバーに対応。

つくり出している。海岸線には風が入らない穏やかな湾や

多種多様な魚と健全なサンゴ礁は、観察にはもちろん写

入り江など、ボートなしでもアクセスできるスポットや、北部

真撮影にもってこいだ。また、ナイトダイブにぴったりのリー SUMMER

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ほとんどの観光客はタモンエリアで過ごしているが、 グアム北部には石灰岩林が広がり、南部には低い 山々が連なっている。自然豊かなジャングルや山あい の滝、観光地から離れた静かな湾などへ足を運んでみ るのもおすすめだ。村の人はフレンドリーだし、村自体 も個性的でおもしろいので、下記を参考にぜひ訪れ てみてほしい。

1. 恋人岬（Two Lover’s Point） ：観光地ではある

2.

3.

4.

5.

が、この伝説の岬から眺めるタモンの眺望は一見 の価値あり。グアムの美しいリーフを真上から眺め ることができる。 リティディアン自然保護区：ジャングルハイキング と砂浜と美しい自然は、晴れた日に訪れてほしいス ポット。見晴らし台からはロタ島が見えるはずだ。 ココス島：グアム南部にあるヤシの木と鳥の群れ と花に囲まれた堡礁島。グアム固有種のココ鳥を 見にいってみてほしい。 ターザンフォール：ハイキングシューズをはいて、 ショートパンツの下には水着をお忘れなく。島の中 心部の丘をハイキングで登ると川と涼しげな滝が見 えてくる。小川には野生のエビが見つかるはずだ。 セラ湾/セッティ湾：セラ湾の見晴らし台に車を駐 車して、 トレイルのある丘を下ると歴史的なスペイ ン橋が見えてくる。穏やかな日にはリーフでシュノー ケルをしたり、隣の湾までビーチの散歩もおすすめ だ。ターザンフォールやセラ湾へは飲み物をたくさ ん持参すること。熱帯の太陽が照りつけるハイキ ングは短くないのでご注意を。

グアム東海岸のドライブ：グアムの東海岸をドライ ブするなら、かならず訪れてほしい場所がふたつある。 まずはイパン地区にあるジェフズ・パイレーツ・コーブ。 こちらはハンバーガーが有名で、ビーチの美しい眺め がすばらしい。グアムで行方不明になった元日本兵、 横井庄一さんの博物館は入館料無料。もう一か所は Malojlojにあるマックラウツ。グアム在住のドイツ人が 経営。輸入ビールのセレクションの幅の広さはもはや 伝説で、おいしい本場ドイツ料理が手ごろな価格で楽 しめる。ハムホック＆クラウトをオーダーすれば、満腹 になること間違いなしだ。

51

At the top of the Pit it is shallow enough to decompress.

Look for hawkfish in the small table corals that thrive here.

Then there’s Hap’s Reef. Hap’s has long been the favored reef of Guam fish watchers. Just right for a third dive, this 25-to-50-foot deep, loaf-shaped reef supports a large variety of Micronesian fish species.

Sea anemones can be found on the top of the reef, and there are different clownfish species in the various anemones. Look for stonefish and some cryptic feeders to be camouflaged on the reeftop and in its many cracks.

There are some very large lionfish at Hap’s that also make good photo subjects.

Investigating the sand and reef flats can also turn up nudibranchs, anemone crabs and lots of other colorful subjects. Whitetip reef sharks sometimes sleep on the west side. There are sometimes spinner dolphins in the vicinity as well.

Snorkelers’ Delight Very few islands can boast a marine preserve right off a main tourist beach. Yet the Fish Eye Marine Park in Piti Village is incredibly accessible and offers guided snorkeling tours. This walk-in site is one of Guam’s marine

52

preserves and has more than 200 fish species as it is an incubator for fish and invertebrates.

Divers can see the healthy reef on the south side of the undersea observatory, feed the fish and even snorkel around the observatory itself. There are also intro dives here, and it is great for experienced photographers who want to “shoot” fish.

Another marine preserve with lots of fish is at Ypao Beach, one of Guam’s favorite beach parks, at the south end of Tumon Bay. The walk-in snorkel spot features clear waters, brilliant white sand and many corals and fishes found in shallow water. It is set next to one of Guam’s nicest public parks where you can enjoy a beachside lunch before or after snorkeling.

There is an inshore current here and, if the current is strong, snorkelers can do a drift along the reeftop and then just walk back up the beach when finished with this free ride from nature.

Further adrift, Guam also has war shipwrecks in the harbor, cascading reefs on the outer slopes and even some offshore deep reefs for adventurous divers. It is one of the Pacific’s best dive holiday destinations and is just a few hours from Japan so reasonable packages are easy to find.

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Diving Practicalities Diving on Guam is super easy. There are many walk-in reef dives, a wide choice of boat dive sites and virtually no swells except after storms. The seas are perfect about 95 percent of the time for diving. Most dive sites are a 10-to-20-minute ride by boat. The calmer months are May through October as trade winds normally start in November or early December and run through April.

Divers can travel light, since Guam has everything a diver needs for rental. There are also some very good scuba equipment deals to be had at various Guam dive shops.

Guam also offers all levels of instruction, from beginning Open Water and one-day Resort Experience courses through advanced instructor training. Technical diving is also taught on Guam with deep wreck venues for in-water training on scuba and rebreather.

Guam is tropical and almost always sunny, so bring protective clothing and brimmed hat and lots of sunscreen.✤

Island Beat

Japan Islands–Micronesia

SUNSET SPOTS

夕陽絶景ポイント

フ「ブルーホール」もおすすめ。こちらのブルーホールには、 ホタルのように光を発する魚がいてウォールを照らしだす。 ブルーホールから半島を少し下ったところにあるのがシャー クピット。ここは第二次世界大戦時、軍の投棄場があった 場所だ。水深10∼15フィートのあたりに突き出たサンゴに覆 われた岩があり、この岩の頂上から側面に沿って潜る。 戦車などの戦争の名残を見ることもできるが、ここの見ど

南側の海底観測所にある元気なサンゴ礁はもちろん、魚 のえさやりや、観測所周辺をシュノーケルすることもできる。 初級者向けダイビングコースもあるし、腕に自信のあるフォト グラファーにはもってこいのスポットである。 タモン湾南端に位置する、人気のヤポ・ビーチの保護区 もおすすめだ。ここは透明度の高い水に真っ白な砂、そこ に生息するサンゴや浅瀬に生息する魚が楽しめる。すぐ隣

ころはなんといってもさまざまな種類の魚たちだろう。ピラミッ

にある美しい公園はシュノーケル前後のランチを楽しむのに

ドバタフライフィッシュの群れやラッキーならば、飾り立てた

は最適だ。また、ここは岸へ向かうカレントがあるので、流れ

ゴーストパイプフィッシュを見ることができるかもしれない。

が強いときはサンゴ礁の上を浮かんでいれば、そのままビー

軍が投棄した瓦礫類はまだ完全に覆われてはおらず、

チまで連れて帰ってくれるという海からの特典つきだ。

軍用車は魚や無脊椎動物の家となっている。海底深くにあ

もっと楽しみたいダイバーのために、港には戦時中の沈

る大きな岩にはムチサンゴが海の流れに揺れており、ライト

船があるし、沖に広がるサンゴ礁の斜面やより深いサンゴ

で照らすと明るい赤に輝く。 穴の入口は十分浅いので減圧できる。テーブルコーラル の中にクラスホークフィッシュを見ることもできるはずだ。

礁もある。太平洋でダイビングを楽しむなら、グアムは最高 の場所なのだ。しかも日本から数時間、安いパッケージツ アーも多い。

次はハップス・リーフ。グアムダイバーたちのお気に入り の場所だ。3回目のダイブにぴったりのハップス・リーフはパ

ダイビング

ンのかたまりのような形で、深さは25∼50フィート、ミクロネ シアのさまざまな魚を見ることができる。

グアムでのダイビングはとてもアクセスがよく、ビーチから

リーフにいるイソギンチャクのあいだには何種類ものカク

そのまま行けるリーフポイントがあるし、ボートで行くスポット

レクマノミが、リーフの狭間にはカモフラージュしたオニダル

は嵐の後以外はほぼ穏やかだ。95パーセントの確率で最高

マオコゼなどが隠れているはずだ。また、ここには写真にお

のダイビング・コンディションが約束されている。ボートで行

さめておきたい大きなミノカサゴもいる。

くスポットはだいたいどこでも10∼20分程度。5月から10月は

砂地と平らなリーフの中には、ウミウシ、アネモネクラブな どの色彩豊かな生物が、そして西側にはネムリブカが眠っ ているかもしれないし、イルカもたまにやってくる。

とくに海は穏やかで、11月または12月のはじめから4月までは トレードウィンドが吹く。 ダイビング用品は現地でレンタルできるので、荷物が軽く てすむのもいい。また、ギア類はかなりお手頃な価格で販

シュノーケル

売されているので要チェックだ。 ダイビングレッスンは初級オープンウォーターや、1日リゾー

観光地で観光客が訪れるビーチから海洋保護区へすぐ

ト体験コースをはじめ、上級インストラクター・トレーニング

にアクセスできる場所はそう多くない。ピティ村のフィッシュ

までさまざまなレベルに対応。また、 スキューバおよびリブリー

アイ・マリンパークはそのような場所のひとつで、ガイド付き

ザーを使用した沈船などでの水中テクニカルダイブのコース

のシュノーケルツアーが楽しめる。ここはグアムの海洋保護

も充実している。

区のひとつで、魚と無脊椎動物の孵化をおこなっているた め、常時200種以上の魚を見ることができる。

熱帯性の気候でいつも晴れているグアムには日焼け止めは

At the end of a diving or exploration day on Guam, where are the best places to have a drink and watch the tropical sunset? Some local favorites: Jan Z’ s is located at the harbor in southern Agat; enjoy some of the famous fresh sashimi as the sun goes down over Agat Bay. The name says it all. The Sunset Bar & Grill, on the beach in Asan Village, has great smoked meat sandwiches and Guam ’ s best pizza.

The bar and al fresco restaurant at the Santa Fe Hotel looks out at Alupang Island and upon the western sky. This may be the best sunset spot on Guam.

The Beach is located at the secluded north end of Tumon Bay ’ s Gun Beach. The lively beach bar is also a popular beach volleyball venue, and the happy hour features the incredible voice of singer Brandi and other local talents.

Two Lover’s Point only serves sodas, but if you visit during the day, your ticket is good all day, even for sunset. Watch the sun go down 300+ feet above sea level and wait after the sunset as the western sky turns shades of orange and fuscia. ダイビングや探検を楽しんだあと、お酒を飲 みながら美しいトロピカルサンセットを見ること ができるスポットをご紹介しよう。 アガット南部の港にあるジャンジーズ（Jan Z’ s）ではアガット湾に沈む夕陽を眺めながら新鮮 なサシミを楽しむことができる。 サンセットバー＆グリル（Sunset Bar & Grill） は、その名の通り、アサンビレッジのビーチに あるレストラン。スモークミートのサンドイッチや グアム一と言われるピザがおすすめ。 サンタフェホテルのバーとレストランは、アル パンアイランドと西の空を見渡せる。グアムの ベスト・ｘサンセットスポットと言えるだろう。 タモン湾北端のガンビーチにあるザ・ビーチ 。賑やかなこちらのバーは、ビー （The Beach） チバレーでも人気の場所で、ハッピーアワーに は地元で人気のブランディなどの歌を聴ける。 s Point）ではアルコール 恋人岬（Two Lover’ は販売していないが、一度チケットを購入すれ ば一日中有効なので、サンセットタイムも楽し める。海抜300メートルに日が沈み、西の空が オレンジと鮮やかなピンクに変わっていく様子 はすばらしい。

もちろん、日焼け防止用の洋服や帽子などもお忘れなく。✤ SUMMER

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53

Island Beat Japan Islands–Micronesia

GUAM ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE: Guam is served daily by major carriers from Japan, major cities in the Asian region and from the U.S. through Honolulu. Guam's main carrier is United. Other carriers include Japan Air Lines, Delta Airlines, Korean Air and Philippine Airlines. Domestic airlines also serve the neighboring islands.

GETTING AROUND: Taxis can be quite pricy on Guam. It is best to rent a car. All of the major rental agencies are here. A valid U.S. or international license is required.

VISAS & ENTRy: U.S. citizens with a valid passport can stay as long as they want, but non-U.S. citizens need a visa to enter.

There is a liberal visa waiver program that allows for up to 15s Bureau’ s Web site to see if day stays. Check the Guam Visitor’ your country participates. Web: www.visitguam.org

THE DOLPHINS イルカ

There are many daily iruka tours to Guam’ s bays to see dolphins. Guam's coastal waters are the home of pods of dolphins called spinners who use the island's shallow bays for a number of reasons. Lucky locals have even established a rapore with the animals and have had regular snorkeling sessions with them in the southern end of the island.

The spinner dolphins cruise at speeds between five-to-seven miles an hour, with a maximum speed of up to 22 mph. So, if the dolphins slow down long enough to play with you, it is because they want to.

It is this fact, among others, that makes a dolphin encounter on Guam a special experience. Unlike some Caribbean destinations, there are no trained dolphins on Guam with which to swim. All dolphin encounters are in-the-wild happenings.

CURRENCy: Guam uses the U.S. dollar, and major credit cards are accepted nearly everywhere. Banks exchange currency at a better rate than hotels.

TIME: Guam is 10 hours ahead of GMT/UTC. When it is 7 p.m. in Japan, it is 8 p.m. in Guam.

ELECTRICITy: Electricity is 110/120 volts, 60-cycle and the flat, two-pronged plug is used as in the USA. WEIGHTS & MEASURES: The imperial system of measurement is used. Air on scuba gauges is read in pounds and underwater depth is read in feet.

アクセス：日本、アジアの主要都市、ホノルルをふくむアメリカか らは大手航空会社の便が毎日出ている。主要な航空会社はユ ナイテッド航空だがJAL、デルタ、大韓航空、フィリピン航空など も就航している。周辺の島々へはドメスティック便を利用。 交通：タクシーは高めなのでレンタカーがベストだろう。主要レン タカー会社はすべてそろっている。運転にはアメリカ、もしくは国 際免許が必要だ。

毎日たくさんのイルカ見学ツアーが出てい る。グアムはハシナガイルカの生息地となって おり、島南部のローカルの中にはイルカとの絆 を深め、定期的にシュノーケルセッションを楽し むものもいる。 ハシナガイルカは平均毎時5∼7マイル、最 高時速22マイルで泳ぐ。つまり、彼らがゆっくり 泳いで近づいてくるということは、一緒に遊び たいということなのだ。 カリブの観光地では訓練されたイルカもいる が、ここグアムのイルカはすべて野生。それが 彼らとの出会いをいっそう思い出深いものにし てくれる。

54

ビザ：アメリカ人はビザ不要だが、アメリカ人以外はビザが必要。 ビザ免除プログラムがあるので通常15日間はビザなしで滞在可 能だ。この免除プログラムについてはグアム観光局のウェブサイ トでご確認を。Web：http://www.visitguam.jp 通貨：グアムの通貨はUSドル。クレジットカードはほぼどこでも使 える。両替はホテルより銀行のレートのほうがいい。 時差：グアムはGMT/UTCより10時間進んでいる。日本で午後7 時ならば、グアムは午後8時になる。 電圧：電圧は110/120ボルト、60Hz。形状はアメリカで使われて いる平らな2本プラグ。 重さ、長さの単位：ヤード、ポンドが使われる。スキューバのエ アタンクのゲージはポンド、水深はフィートであらわされる。

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Hafa Adai from the Hotel Santa Fe Guam

our Try ous fam orro m “Charger” Bu

Call +1-671-647-8855 for reservations www.hotelsantafeguam.com SUMMER

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55

Paddling Okinawa’s Last Frontier Photos by Kiyotaka Kitajima

漕いで知る西表島の魅力

Ocean athlete Tomoko Okazaki discovers the perfect way to explore Okinawa’s last frontier. オーシャン・アスリート岡崎友子が提案する、沖縄最後のフロンティア、豊かな大自然が息づく西表島の楽しみ方。

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JAPAN TRAVELER: IRIOMOTE

I

have been around the world in search of waves and wind, but the nature and beauty of Iriomote always fascinates me. When I return to Japan from my home in Maui, I usually visit the pristine island.

In early spring, when snow is still falling on Honshu and Hokkaido, it’s the start of the beach season in the Yaeyama Islands, Japan’s southernmost inhabited islands.

Check a map, and you’ll see just how close they are to Taiwan. The peak season for tourists here is July and August, yet it stays warm through November, and even in winter the temperature is pleasant.

Iriomote is the largest of the Yaeyama islands, yet it has the fewest roads. It’s also the rainiest, so the semi-tropical vegetation is dense and largely untouched, making it one of Japan’s last true frontiers.

In fact, nearly 90 percent of the island is wild jungle, home to many unusual plants and animals, including endemic species such as the Iriomote wildcat. The mangrove forests are the largest in Japan and it has the largest coral reef in Japan, stretching 20 km. long and 15 km. wide.

When the tide goes down, groups of older women forage in the ocean. If you call out to them, these friendly oba-san will show you what they are gathering and share how it is used, such as the medicinal value of some plants, even those that look like simple weeds.

Iriomote’s wild interior and beautiful sea are a playground for outdoor lovers. Diving, fishing, sea kayaking, snorkeling, trekking, waterfall climbing…it’s all here. The diving and snorkeling in the spectacular reefs surrounding the island are particularly special. If you swim just 30 meters from the port, you enter the rich underwater world of Ryugu-jo, the legendary Palace of the Dragon King.

波

や風を求めて世界のあちこちを旅してきた私だが、 西表島の自然とその美しさはいつも私を惹きつけて

いて、日本に帰ると毎回のように西表島を訪ねている。 本州や北海道ではまだ雪が降る早春の3月、日本の最南 端にある八重山諸島は海開きとなる。地図で見ると八重山 諸島は台湾のすぐ横に位置していることがわかる。旅行者 にとって7月から8月は最適な季節だが、11月頃までは過ごし やすく、真冬でもそれほど寒くない。 西表島は八重山諸島のなかでももっとも大きな島である にもかかわらず、そのほとんどが道さえ通っていない。ほか の島より雨が多いためうっそうと生い茂る亜熱帯のジャング ルで覆われており、手つかずの自然が残される日本最後の フロンティアのひとつだと言える。 とくに島の90パーセントを占める広大な自然林には八重 山諸島の固有種や珍しい動植物が数多く生息し、イリオモ テヤマネコのような絶滅危惧種もいる。マングローブの森も 日本一の広さがあり、海の中は、長さ20km、幅15kmにもお よぶ世界有数の珊瑚礁が拡がっている。 引き潮になると大勢のおばあが海に出て拾い物をしてい る。声をかけると快く何を拾っているのか、何に使うのかなど を教えてくれる。雑草のように生えている草など、ありとあら ゆるものが食材や薬草として使えることもおばあたちが教え てくれる。 手つかずの自然が残る西表島は、日本でも有数のアウト ドア愛好者向けの場所でもある。ダイビング、釣り、シーカ ヤック、シュノーケルをはじめ、 トレッキング、滝登り、サーフィ ンなど、ありとあらゆるものがどれもハイレベルのクオリティ で楽しめる。とくにダイビングやシュノーケルは、世界有数 の珊瑚礁が島を囲むようにあり、港から30メートルも泳げば 竜宮城にたどりつけることができる。

スタンドアップパドルが最適！ ここ最近注目されているスタンドアップパドル（略して

SUP、サップと呼ばれることもある）だが、西表島を満喫する には完璧な道具だということがわかってきた。西表島のあち

Get Up, Stand Up!

らこちらを漕ぎ回ったり遊んだりする海上の足として利用で

Stand-up paddle boarding (SUP), has become increasingly popular. If you’ve never tried it, you stand on what looks like a large surfboard using a long paddle to maneuver. I first tried SUP back home in Maui. A bunch of my friends started doing it after watching big-wave surfer Laird Hamilton, who really brought it to the sporting world.

The boards still needed a lot of improvement in their designs; they were heavy and hard to move, but they allowed you to escape crowded surf breaks and sneak out and play in more distant waves even in a light wind when the surf was down.

A paddleboard gives you access to inlets you otherwise couldn’t get to. You can even paddle up a river like a salmon returning to its home.

The beauty of SUP is that it’s a sport anyone can enjoy, especially if you find a board that fits you. Hardcore surfers might go out after big waves, while children can enjoy cruising little ones with their parents, maybe even with the family dog on board.

Hollywood celebrities are apparently turning to SUP for exercise, while others have used them on serious adventures from island-to-island paddles, even crossing the Atlantic.

Visitors to Iriomote who try SUP quickly realize it’s a paddleboard paradise. If you have an adventurous spirit, there are many otherwise inaccessible beaches and rivers to explore. You can even go fishing or snorkeling from your SUP.

き、いろいろな景色を楽しみながらクルーズできるのだ。

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スタンドアップは大きなサーフボードのようなものに立ち、 パドルを持って立って漕ぐ。 自分にあった板にさえ乗ればだれでも楽しめるスポーツで もあり、ハードコアなサーファーがより大きな波に乗るために やったりもすれば、子どもや犬と一緒に湖をクルーズして楽 しむためにやっている人もいる。ハリウッドではシェイプアッ プのためにスタンドアップを取り入れて楽しんでいるセレブ がたくさんいるらしいし、島から島へ、遠いものでは大西洋 横断までいろいろな冒険の道具としても使われるようになっ てきた。SUPにはそんなバラエティー豊かな楽しみ方がある のだが、西表島ではそのほとんどが可能。だから、この島は スタンドアップパドル・パラダイスといえる。

マングローブクルーズ 日本一のマングローブの森もただ船から見るのと自分で 漕いで間近で見るのとでは大違い。マングローブが生息し ている川をさかのぼれば、風はブロックされているので限りな くフラットで穏やかな水面。異国情緒たっぷりの風景を楽し みながら、漕ぎつづけているうちにいい感じに筋肉も張って くる。 とくに朝の光の中を漕いでいくのは別世界に入り込んだ ような幻想的な感覚に心が奪われてしまう。ただ風景を楽し むでもよし、あるいはダイエット、シェイプアップにもジョギン グがわりに楽しんで漕ぐこともできる。そして延々と続く幅広 の浦安川は長距離を漕ぐ練習にもなり、レースで上位を目 指すアスリートには格好のトレーニング・グラウンドにもなる。

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Mangrove Cruising

Snorkeling

Japan’s largest mangrove forest is impressive to see from a boat in the distance, but you get a much different perspective when paddling up close. Gliding up a mangrove-lined river, you’ll find the trees block the wind, making the water surface flat and smooth.

Paddling here in the light of the early morning is also a magical sensation. The scenery is exotic and always changing. It’s also great exercise, using your core abdominals and legs. Paddling up Iriomote’s long, winding Urauchi River is a great way to practice your SUP technique, and it’s a good training ground for athletes.

Snorkeling is easier and more fun when you have an SUP to get to a good spot. The standing position provides a great vantage point for seeing into the water so the colorful corals—like fields of flowers—and fish can easily be seen while paddling along. With snorkeling gear ready, you can jump in anytime and use the SUP as a floating platform and leisurely enjoy a day in the ocean.

Fishing & Harvesting Mozuku Spring is the season for mozuku in the Yaeyama Islands.

I love this slightly stringy, crunchy seaweed. I once dove down to gather some from the ocean floor, and I was surprised at how delicious it is compared to what you buy in stores.

It’s common to see older women out gathering mozuku and, if you are on an SUP, you can paddle a little farther out to where sandbars — natural mozuku fields — appear during low tide. There’s usually no one else out there, so you can take your time.

When gathering mozuku, it is important to pull up the plant and leave the roots. Keep your fingers above the roots when you pick mozuku; if the roots remain, there will be a new growth the following year. Locals prefer the slender, more delicate mozuku to larger plants, which are then lightly pickled in salt at room temperature for a few days, before being eaten.

You’ll also find many other kinds of seaweed as well as shellfish. You can also put a fishing rod on your back while paddling and try a bit of trolling. The world-class coral reefs here attract countless fish.

58

It's a moment-by-moment, dynamic change and one that, no matter how many times you see it, makes you stop and give thanks.

The winds usually quiet down the moment twilight arrives and, paddling alone on a calm sea, you feel completely at peace. It’s nice to see more locals enjoying these special times of the day on the SUPs, before or after work.

Paddling Downwind

Surfing To be honest, Iriomote is not blessed with great surfing except when a typhoon passes by or a strong north wind blows. This is when local surfers get on boats and head out to the outer reef and find a good spot. The reef protects the area closer to the shore, so the waves don't break — even if they do, they’re quite small.

The SUP has an advantage here because, although you can’t choose the wave quality, if you look off into the distance and the waves look like fun, you can paddle out to get them. A stand-up board can also be used to tow out a normal surfboard, anchor at a good spot and go surfing.

Sunrise and Sunset Cruises Iriomote is the westernmost point of Japan, so the sunrise comes later than the rest of the nation. As the sky begins to grow brighter, you slip into the ocean on your SUP and begin paddling out to the open sea; to the east, the giant red ball rises from the horizon, and the ocean begins to reflect a gradation of reds, oranges and yellows.

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Paddling in strong winds can be difficult as the surface of the water grows rough and the chance of being swept off your board increases. Yet, if you go with the flow, you can head from a leeward island to an island downwind quite easily. It’s a dynamic, open-ocean experience that can take you quite a distance.

The Yaeyama Islands are scattered around at distances from three to 50 kilometers apart, meaning there are many different courses available depending on your skill, experience and the conditions.

Iriomote Island has a particularly simple downwind course and, if there’s a north wind, an easy long-distance course is from the tiny coral-sand island of Barasu to Uehara Island. For a bit more of a challenge, start at Hatoma Island.

If you are looking for a real adventure, wait for the kachiba, a wind from the south, and paddle the 50 kilometers from Hateruma Island to Iriomote, something many ocean athletes try. ✤

JAPAN TRAVELER: IRIOMOTE 釣りやモズク採り

シュノーケル

サンライズ、サンセットクルーズ

春は西表島のモズクの季節。モズクが大好きな私にとっ

シュノーケルもグッドスポットまでスタンドアップで漕いでい

西表に滞在している間、日課のように毎朝夕するのがこ

てはたまらない。一度でも天然のモズクを海の中から自分

けばさらに楽しい。立ち姿勢なので海の中がよく見える。お

れ。西表は日本の西の端に位置しているので、日の出は比

の手で採って食べたら， 店で売られている市販のものとの違

花畑のようにカラフルな珊瑚礁と魚たちを見ながら漕ぐなん

較的遅い時間になる。少しずつ明るくなりはじめる頃、SUP

いに愕然とする。

て、日本では、いや世界でもなかなか経験できないこと。初

を海に出し沖に向かって漕いでいくと、水平線の向こうから

西表でもおばあたちがモズクを採る様子を見かけるが、ス

めて西表の珊瑚礁のなかを漕いだとき、その景観のすばら

大きな赤い玉が顔を出し、 オレンジや黄金色の光のグラデー

タンドアップを使えばちょっと遠くにある干潮で出現する砂

しさに人魚姫の気分になったほどだ。シューケルを持参し

ションで海を染めていく。刻一刻ダイナミックに変化するそ

州の天然のモズク・フィールドまで漕いでいくことができる。

て、 いちばんいいスポットで飛び込み、 スタンドアップをフロー

の光景は、何度見てもその場にいる感謝の気持ちがあふ

もちろんほかにはだれもいないので気兼ねなくゆっくりモズ

ト代わりにして一日中飽きることなく水の中を覗いていられ

れてくる。

ク採りを楽しめる。

るだろう。

風が凪いだ瞬間の夕暮れも同様で、そんな落ち着いた海

モズクをとるときの注意点は根こそぎとるのではなく、根っ この上を手で挟むようにして取ること。そうすることで根が残 り、翌年もモズクが生長する。地元の人は、太く育ちきって いるものより、細く繊細のものを好み、それを軽く塩漬けに して常温で何日もかけて少しずつ食している。長期で保存 したい場合は少し多めの塩を使うのがポイントらしい。 モズクだけでなく多くの海藻や貝、また釣り竿を腰にさし てスタンドアップで漕ぎながらトローリングしてもいろんな魚 が捕れるはずだ。世界有数の珊瑚礁が残る自然豊かな海 だからこそ、たくさんの魚が生息し、釣りマニアが夢見るGT なども頻繁に釣れているようだ。

の上をひとりで漕いでいると、無心になれる。地元でも仕事

サーフィン

前や仕事のあとの時間帯にスタンドアップを楽しむ人が増え

西表島はサーフィンにかんしてはそう恵まれているほうで はない。台風や強い北風が吹くときにはローカルサーファー が船を出して乗りにいくアウターリーフのいいスポットもある が、リーフに守られている岸近くで波が割れることはあまりな いし、割れても小さな波がほとんど。 サーフボードではちょっと物足りない波でもスタンドアップ なら適度に楽しめる。波質を選ばないと同時に遠くに見え る波にも楽に漕いでいくことができるので、西表のサーフィ ンにはぴったり。なかにはスタンドアップで普通のサーフボー ドを牽引しながら沖まで漕いでいき、沖のポイントに着いた らスタンドアップをアンカーで固定し、サーフボードで波乗り をするというスタイルもある。

てきたのが嬉しい。

ダウンウインド（風下に漕ぐ） 風が強いときに漕ぐのは海面も荒れているし、流されやす いので大変だ。でも流されることを利用して、風上にある島 から風下の島まで長距離を風に乗りながら下っていくことは ダイナミックな外洋を経験できる。 八重山諸島の島々は、それぞれ3kmから50kmまでの範囲 で点々と浮かんでいるので、自分の技量やそのときのコン ディションにあわせていろいろなコースが選べる。西表島に はとくに手軽にできるダウンウインドのコースがある。 たとえば北風なら、沖にある珊瑚の島、バラス島から上 原の港まで漕いでくるのはだれでもできる距離。もうちょっと 頑張れる人は鳩間島からスタートすればいい。 冒険レベルのものだったら、南の風が吹くカーチバイの 季節に波照間から西表までの50 kmを漕いでみたいと思っ ているアスリートたちも多い。✤

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59

JAPAN TRAVELER: IRIOMOTE

TRAVELER TIPS

西表島の旅の手引き

SUP GUIDE: To get the most out of standup paddling in the fantastic natural world of Iriomote, particularly in the changing day-to-day conditions, a local guide is the way to go. Motoyuki Tokuoka at Waterman is an experienced guide who can create a fun, safe course depending on the weather and ocean conditions, and the guests’abilities. Waterman is a comprehensive guide service that can also provide guided diving, stand-up paddling lessons and guided paddling and more. Web: http://i-waterman.com

SUPガイド：西表のすばらしい自然を思い切りスタンドアップを

利用して満喫できるかどうかは、やはりその日その日のコンディ ションをすべて把握しているガイドにかかってくる。西表島の天 気や海のコンディション、そしてそれぞれのレベルにあわせてい ちばんいい方法で楽しませてくれるガイドサービスがウオーターマ ン。名前のとおり、海のことならなんでもお任せのウオーターマ ン徳岡大之さんがスタンドアップ・レッスン、スタンドアップ体験， 海遊び全般のガイドをしてくれる。また、ここでは、ダイビングガイ ドもやっている。ウエブ：http://i-waterman.com

LAUGH LA GARDEN: This restaurant is operated by a surfer couple and is located just across from Uehara Port. Enjoy big, hearty servings of delicious dishes such as miso katsu teishoku and Okinawa favorite champuru . A wide selection of beverages are available and plenty of snacks to enjoy with a post-paddle cocktail.

ラフラガーデン：若いサーファーの夫婦が経営しているレストラン で上原港の真ん前にある。ボリューム満点のミソカツ定食やチャ ンプルーが美味しい。夜はお酒の種類も豊富に揃えてあり、お つまみ系メニューもたくさん。 アクセス：西表島と石垣島を結ぶフェリー定期航路があり、35 ∼40分で着く。石垣島へは日本各地から各航空会社の定期便 が飛んでいるが、格安航空会社で那覇まで飛び、そこから石垣 島まで ‘飛行機を乗り継ぐ方法もある。

GETTING THERE: Regular ferries run from Ishigaki Island to Iriomote Island and take 35 to 40 minutes. There are direct flights to Ishigaki from some major cities in Japan or, if you are on a budget, jump on a low-cost carrier to Naha and then changes planes from Naha to Ishigaki.

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61

OJ CLASSIFIEDS

■ HOKKAIDO ■ TOHOKU ■ SHINETSU • HOKURIKU ■ CHUBU • TOKAI ■ KANTO ■ KANSAI

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■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OUTSIDE JAPAN ■ GEAR & SERVICES

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Lifestyle Directory ■ nagano

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Summer HAKUBA IN

- Exclusive range of luxury cabins, chalets and apartments - Great range of summer activitives - Car and bike rentals arranged

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Season runs from December 3rd to May 6th (With Mother Natures Blessing)

Come in December, March or April and beat the crowds and save some money!

tel. 050 5532 6026 www.nozawaholidays.com

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Lifestyle Directory

■ CHUGOKU • SHIKOKU ■ KYUSHU • OKINAWA ■ OUTSIDE JAPAN ■ GEAR & SERVICES

■ TOKYO

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Shichirigahama, Kamakura

www.easysurf.jp Phone: 0467-55-5702 ■ SHIZUOKA

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International License for SURF LESSON

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Office Network & Computer Support Database Development Website Development VoIP Telephone Systems Online Marketing www.showcase-central.info www.emissary.co.jp | 03-3365-1978 66

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Denver lnternational Airport

Fly to Denver the gateway to your adventures in the Rocky Mountains.

Effective April 1, 2013, United will launch nonstop service between Tokyo and Denver with Boeing 787 Dreamliner*. United is serving to 7 US Mainland cities from Japan, with convenient connections to 370 cities in six continents.

*Subject to government approval.