Autumn/Winter 2014 Issue - AABTh Beauty Magazine by OUT OF WHITE

Beauty

The Australian

Therapist

the voice of the industry Volume 1/2

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autumn/Winter 2014

I do.

GernĂŠtic: committed to lasting client relationships. (02) 9452 6230 gernetic@vitalplus.com.au www.gernetic.com.au

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Welcome to the Autumn/Winter 2014 Issue

elcome to the Autumn/Winter edition of the Australian Beauty Therapist magazine. Here we are into another year and as it starts getting colder I hope you have all worked out what offers you are going to give to your clients over the next couple of months. Welcome to all the AABTH School students and I hope your next year will be a great learning experience for all of you.

Please take note of the change of venue for the International Beauty Expo this year has moved to Glebe Island Peninsula (Anzac Bridge) 23rd & 24th August 2014. For those who can escape the Sydney winter CIDESCO World congress is to be held in Athens Greece this year so might be a great destination to get that summer tan before the rest of us.

Publishers: Advanced Association of Beauty Therapists CIDESCO SECTION AUSTRALIA PO Box 5463 West Chatswood NSW 1515 Tel: 02 9439 5054 Fax: 02 9437 4761

Editorial Enquiries: The Australian Beauty Therapist Magazine PO BOX 5463 West Chatswood NSW 1515 Tel: 02 9439 5054 Fax: 02 9437 4761 info@aabth.com.au

Front Cover: Jessica Cosmetics (Masters International) 1 300 470 648 www.jessicacosmetics.com.au

Advertising Enquiries: Sue Hannell Tel: 0412 742 094 or 02 9439 5054 Email: sue.hannell@aabth.com.au

Until next time, Coleen.

Printing: PLT Print Solutions Tel: 02 9975 2817 Design: Out of White Design Pty Ltd Tel: 02 9924 3319 Email: info@oow.com.au For membership, subscriptions and contact listings: Contact Coleen Shaw at the AABTh head office on Tel: 02 9439 5054 Email: info@aabth.com.au

ÂŠ The Advanced Association of Beauty Therapists. CIDESCO SECTION AUSTRALIA. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced whatsoever without written permission from the publisher. Advertising is accepted for publication on the strict understanding that material does not contravene any law or regulation and complete responsibility remains with the advertiser. Advertisers completely indemnify the publisher, its directors, employees and agents against any claims, cost penalties, suits, expenses, judgements, damages and any other liability, whether caused by or arising whatsoever. The publisher accepts no responsibility for late delivery of publication for whatever reason. In the case of a dispute the publisherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s decision is final and binding to all parties. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the AABTh. The appearance of any advertisement in this publication does not constitute the AABTh endorsement of any product, service or the like, nor does anything contained in this publication represent an endorsement of any person or company which employs any methods or skills described in this publication.

The Australian Beauty Therapist Magazine

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Contents

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Regulars p04 Welcome p06 Industry News Share Your Social Events, Educational Achievements and Business Developments p35 Business Matters • What is Franchising? By Liz See • The 5 Key Success Principles in Business By Phillip Fernandez (ABNLP) (NSAA) • Make More Money in Your Business By Trish Rock • Small Business Matters By NSW Small Business Commissioner • IPSN- Service Skills Australia By Lauren Hosking • Are You Planning to Hire New Staff? By Australian Taxation Office

Features p08 Hyaluronic Acid, the Fountain of Youth By Luca Mora p10 Common Scents By Will Fennell p12 Ancient Remedies in a Modern World By Yasmin Sadikot p16 The Power of Peels By Toni Miller

p44 Essentials New Products and Ideas for the Beauty Industry

p19 Skin and the Brain, Uncovering New Links By Dr Claudia Aguirre and Annet King

p47 Directory

p23 Change of Agenda – Sydney International Spa & Beauty Expo 2014

Salon Melbourne Wrap-Up

p26 Spot the Difference By Dr Cliff Rosendahl MBBS, PhD p30 Beauty from the Inside Out By Dr Libby Weaver p32 CIDESCO Introduces a Portfolio of New Diplomas p34 CIDESCO – Athens 2014 p42 Beauty Therapy Career Opportunities By Dimi Gravanis – AABTh Member

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Industry News Our members and those in the beauty industry share their social events, educational achievements and business developments.

CIT Canberra Sarah Donnelly is currently studying the Diploma of Beauty Therapy at Canberra Institute of Technology and has been nominated by her teachers in the ACT Training Excellence Awards in the category of Vocational Student of the Year. Sarah is also amongst the first group of Canberra Institute of Technology graduates that will become AABTh student members. Here are some of her thoughts of studying Beauty Therapy at CIT. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The reason I have chosen to study at CIT and pursue a career in the beauty therapy is because of my passion for making people look and feel their best on a holistic level. I find the training really intriguing and fun and with this industry there is always new research being developed and new knowledge to be found every day, and because I like to keep busy it perfectly complements me. I chose to study at CIT as it was convenient and affordable for me without sacrificing on learning quality and I learn best by practically doing things, and with the face to face lectures. I love the course, it was extremely hands on which is what I need when I learn as I learn by physically doing treatments and touching the skin. The teachers at CIT are extremely supportive and help you to get into industry ASAP. My favourite part so far of my diploma is skin treatments such as facials as results are immediate and the way you can change the way someone looks and feels is amazing.â&#x20AC;?

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all about environ new facility opened

meet our new staff

Environ’s mission is to research and develop products that are exceptionally beneficial to maintain healthy and beautiful skin. On the 5 December, 2013, Environ officially opened their new world-class manufacturing facility. It is Environ’s intention to obtain MCC accreditation for this facility. The latest technology and systems enables Environ to manufacture products of the highest standard efficiently for all our Distributors and consumers throughout the World.

Kylie Ehrlich Sales and Training Manager My background includes owning a beauty salon and more recently working for a large well known international cosmetic and make up company in the highly competitive, fast paced retail cosmetics industry. As a Beauty Therapist and Makeup Artist with 14 years’ experience in the Beauty and Cosmetic industry I understand the needs of both the client and the salon owner. As salon owners we want what is best for our clients and love when we have the ability to deliver that. I am excited to join the Environ team at Sensa Skincare Pty Ltd. This exceptional skincare brand is truly amazing! Developed by world renowned cosmetic surgeon Dr Desmond Fernandes it contains the highest level of Vitamin A available in a non-prescriptive skincare range giving it the capability to achieve incredible results. There has been growing demand for this range in both Cosmetic Clincis and Beauty Salons across Australia. If you would like to receive information on becoming an Environ stockist please call 1300 888 708 or email enquiries@sensa.com.au Philippa Schroeder Marketing Assistant I am really enjoying my new position as Marketing Assistant working with ENVIRON. This is my first full-time job after the completion of my studies. I graduated from the University of Technology with a Bachelor of Management in Events and Leisure, and also have a Diploma in Makeup and Special Effects from The Academy of Makeup in Paddington. I am very interested in the cosmeceutical side of skincare as it compliments my knowledge of makeup application. I have used ENVIRON for two weeks and I will never use anything else!! The product has really helped to hydrate and clear my skin.

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HYALURONIC ACID, The Fountain of Youth … yes literally What is the difference between a plum and a prune? Yes, that’s right, its water!

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ad but true, our skin is no different. It prunes up with age. Partly due to the decreased production of Hyaluronic Acid (HA) and the water retaining ability of the skin. Roughly 50% of the HA in the body is found in the skin. HA and collagen are vital to maintaining skin layers and structure. While collagen gives the skin its firmness, it is HA that nourishes and hydrates the collagen. To explain, picture collagen as the stretchy fibres that restores skin back to shape when stretched, much like a rubber band. But, stretch the rubber band a million times, as we do every day ~ smiling, frowning, talking or laughing and eventually that rubber band gets overstretched (sagginess occurs), dried out and will most likely break. This is much the same way the collagen in our skin reacts – leaving it in need of moisture. Now visualise that same rubber band stretched a million times while under water the whole time. Chances of that rubber band drying out and breaking are minimal. Consider the HA as the water that keeps the collagen moist and elastic. Collagen is continuously surrounded and nourished by the gelatinous HA substance. Young skin is smooth and highly elastic because it contains high concentrations of HA, which helps skin stay healthy. As we grow older, the body loses its ability to maintain this same concentration. With decreasing levels of HA, the hydro-dynamics of the skin changes. As a result, the skin becomes drier, wrinkles and loses suppleness. Hydro-dynamics is the measurement of water supply (inlet) and loss (outlet) flows in the skin. If they are balanced, the skin maintains is optimum degree of hydration, which guarantees the renovation process and standardises the cutaneous micro-relief. The production of HA in the body and the skin dramatically changes after the age of 45. One of the very first signs of the reduction of HA, is the skin beginning to look a little weathered and as it has an effect on the eyes, hence the need for glasses. While it has an effect on skin ageing, HA damage can also be accelerated by sunburn. We talk often about the cause of damage from the sun in general ageing terms but rarely mention HA damage. The sun diminishes the stores and percentages of HA, therefore the collagen and elastin fibres become less flexible. In addition, free radical bombardment constantly affects stores of HA.

What is Hyaluronic acid? HA is a non-sulfated glycosamino glycan distributed widely throughout connective, epithelial and neural tissues. A gel-like water holding molecule and space filler, it cushions joints, nerves, hydrates skin and hair, and fills the eye. And, its water holding ability is 1000 times its weight. Vital in the body, HA moisturises, lubricates and holds water in different tissues like the skin, eyes, mucous membrances etc. It maintains the visco-elasticity of the synovial fluid in the joints and also helps to prevent inflammation. It also improves cell multiplication and mobility by transporting nutrients to the matrix structure. Holding water for NMF molecules in the epidermis and in the dermis, HA keeps a reserve of water in the epidermis to prevent it drying out. It is the beautifully tacky, viscous thick fluid which gives the skin its plumpness and youthful look.

In normal tissues, the fragments of HA attach to certain cell receptors and take part in morphogenesis, embryio evolution, cell proliferation, differentiation and migration. However, in damaged tissues, the fragments of HA act as triggers to signal early signs of tissue damage. This acts as a warning to the immune system so it can activate the repair process. SODIUMHYALURONATE* Disaccharide units_(C14H21NO11)n *Molecular weight : 401 g/mol n = 5 000 to 25 000 units HA is a long linear polymer. The general action of HA in the skin is has been described above. From a certain age the cells significantly decrease their production of HA resulting, from a macroscopically point of view, in the part of

the symptoms of ageing appearance. This HA natural decrease could be mitigated by adding directly –topically- HA in the skin. Unfortunately, the skin acts as a formidable barrier against the entry of large molecules as the HA, so we are forced to introduce it fragmented. The size of the fragments will determine the penetration-extend and the specific biological function triggered in the general metabolism of HA. Thus the cosmetologist can modulate the activity of a cosmetic formulated only with HA, simply by controlling the size of these fragments. But, Size really matters! The size of the HA fragment determines its biological function in the body. Molecular weight is all important when we are talking about HA. Latest technology now provides us with differing HA molecular weights. This allows us to balance the skin’s natural hydro-dynamics and obtain an optimum degree of hydration. This can vastly improve wrinkles and lines caused by dehydration. Research has shown that a combination of Very Low Molecular Weight (VLM HA) and High Molecular Weight (HMW HA) offers greater benefits and results. This innovative technology means that a combination can maximize the hydration effect offering optimum and sustained levels way beyond what was previously possible. HMW HA acts as a shield to prevent dehydration and regulate water loss from the tissues. VLM HA penetrates to the dermis and travels to collagen and elastin fibres to boost elasticity and strength. This cutting technology is now available with the new Power Hyaluronic range for professional care and home maintenance products. Effectively and successfully driving ingredients into cells where moisture is locked in. Preventing water loss and promoting the skin’s moisture retaining ability, Skeyndor can deliver long term hydration, a reinforcement of firmness, elasticity and plumping. By Luca Mora (CEO, Vogue Image Group) an international skin and cosmetics specialists. Recognising the need for high performance products, she established Vogue Image Group 14 years ago and has continued to deliver first class training and cutting edge products and treatments, featuring latest technology to Australian Beauty Therapists and their clients. Contact 1 800 554 545 or info@vogueimage.com.au

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Common Scents Have you ever smelt a fragrance on someone walking by and suddenly had a strong memory from long ago come rushing back into your mind?

his is a very common phenomenon because smells can evoke memories that have strong emotional qualities. Humans are able to distinguish over 10,000 different odor molecules and utilize our sense of smell for a multitude of activities. From enjoying the bloom of spring flowers to the heady aromas of food cooking, our lives are made up of wonderful smells and experiences that compliment and become entangled with them. I know when I smell “Drakar Noir” by Guy Laroche I am taken back sixteen years to my first love. One hint of that scent on someone and I remember so vividly how he smelt the first time we met - that is one powerful emotion it evokes. This is why choosing a fragrance that deeply suits you is important and very personal. The wonderful thing with fragrances is they will each smell differently as they mix with an individual’s body chemistry. On one person a particular sent might evoke an evening walk in an enchanted wood, where on another smell like they had just rolled around in the littler box. When choosing a scent one may also want to consider the season? Dark, woodsy, or smokey fragrances with undertones of spice are often more appropriate in the cold days of winter

where lighter citrusy fragrances with floral or plant undertones are found by many appropriate to the hot and languid days of summer. There are so many available, that sometimes it can be daunting when you arrive at big department stores’ perfume counter, but taking the time to choose can be fun. Also, monogamy isn’t essential, so you can be a fragrance tramp and enjoy all your favorites if you want to. Or maybe you would like to find something that speaks to who you are, have it become your signature - the choice is yours. HOW SHOULD I APPLY FRAGRANCE? When you apply fragrance spray them onto pulse points such as the crook of your elbow, the wrist, neck and chest – but do not rub these areas together, as this crushes the scent. Spraying a little into the air and walking straight into the perfume diffuses it nicely all over the body. CARING FOR MY FRAGRANCE Keep bottles tightly closed. Some perfumes come in coloured or opaque bottles this is done to preserve it for a longer period of time but still keep them away from direct heat and out of sunlight. You will certainly know

when they have gone off, they will change colour and you won’t get that lovely boost of heavenly scent when you spray it. WHICH ONE FOR ME? Try choosing fragrances that suit you. A person’s sense of smell is very individual. Don’t make the mistake of wearing a perfume because it smells great on another person — it may not smell the same on you. Test a scent in a store and then walk around for a minimum of ten minutes. Some perfumes take between a half an hour to an hour to truly develop, so take the time if your not sure. If you’re still not convinced ask if they have sample bottles to take away, and try wearing it over a few days. HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH? Everyone has a personal “scent circle”: approximately an arm’s length from the body. No one should be aware of your fragrance unless he or she steps inside your “circle.” Fragrance should be one of the most subtle, personal messages you send to those with whom you come in contact with. So always go with the “less is more” rule; one or two sprays only! Do you really want to be that person walking by that everyone makes fun of?

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Also, monogamy isn’t essential, so you can be a fragrance tramp and enjoy all your favorites if you want to. DIFFERENT FRaGRANCE ON DIFFERENT SKINS The wearer’s diet can affect the way a fragrance smells and lasts on the skin. If the wearer is on a high fat, spicy diet, for example, fragrances will be more intense. A dramatic change in diet can alter skin chemistry, causing fragrances to smell differently. Skin type will also affect the way a fragrance smells on a person. Fragrance wearers with oilier skin should remember that fragrances interact with the oils in their skin to create a more intense scent. Dry skin does not retain fragrance as long as oily skin, requiring the wearer to re-apply the fragrance more often. So if you do have dry skin applying a neutral skin cream will make the scent last longer. Fragrance Families Man-made fragrances are usually a mix of many individual fragrances or “notes”, blended together. The following list whilst not

exhaustive shows some of these notes and their families. You may like one individual scent and not another which explains why some fragrances appeal to you whilst others do not. Floral: Rose, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, YlangYlang, Lilac, Spices: Clove, Cinnamon, Ginger, Pimento Mint: Peppermint, Spearmint Citrus: Lemon, Lime, Orange, Mandarin, and Bergamot, Tangerine Fruity: Apple, Peach, and Mango Herbal: Rosemary, Thyme, and Sage Woody: Sandalwood, Cedar wood, Vetivert, Patchouli Vanilla: Vanilla, Basalm Peru, and Basalm Tolu Green: Violet leaf, Palma Rosa, Galbanum, Lavender, Rosewood Musky: Musk, Civet, and Castoreum Amber: Amber, Ambergris

you can get the full effect of each scent, since coffee refreshes your sense of smell. When choosing a new fragrance, don’t smell too many at once, as you will confuse your senses. Store your perfume in a cool, unlit place, preferably the fridge. Don’t interfere with your scent by wearing perfumed deodorants - try something unscented. Don’t drench your body with fragrance; it should never enter the room before you do. Change your fragrance to suit the season. Warm and musky for winter, in contrast to cool and fruity for summer. Don’t choose a fragrance because of the funky bottle unless you intent to wear it on a chain around your neck. NEVER spray your fragrance onto areas of skin that sunlight will touch as it may cause hypersensitivity or brown marks.

QUICK FRAGRANCE TIPS If you sniff coffee between each cologne,

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Ancient remedies are as relevant today as they were thousands of years ago. More so with the increasing knowledge that artificial and chemical ingredients can be detrimental, not only to the skin but for general wellbeing as well.

Ancient Remedies in a modern world

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(Pictured below L-R: herbs; sandalwood tree; turmeric)

hat is put on the skin is absorbed, as the skin is the largest organ of the body. Skin is an outer protective covering which protects the face, body and scalp. One of the main reasons that Ayurvedic skin care products and protocols are taking the spa and beauty worlds by storm is the availability of numerous potent skin rasayanas in the Ayurvedic herbal treasury. Skin rasayanas (rasa - essence, ayana enter) are so called because of their ability to deliver penetrating holistic benefits to the skin without side effects or damage caused by a fragmented approach to skin health. Whatever the skin type or its needs for balance, there are Ayurvedic skin rasayanas that can help. Further, when used in combination, as is the Ayurvedic tradition, there is the added benefit of synergy, with the combined formulation being exponentially more beneficial than any single herb in the formulation. These rasayanas should be seen as nutritional supplements to provide support to the skin- face, body and hair in topical formulations where the benefits are delivered trans-dermally. It should be noted that true Ayurvedic formulations for internal or external use are only effective when used in combination with other herbs to help alleviate or balance a problem. The therapeutic value of the rasayanas is maximized when they are used in natural topical formulations in combination with emollients such as milk, cream, yogurt or honey, exfoliating substances such as natural clay, salts, grain or lentil flours, vegetable base oils, and floral waters or pure vegetable oils to act as the yogavahi - the carrier of the healing values of the herbs to the cells and tissues. Both the herbs themselves, as well as the other ingredients in the formulations, can be chosen specifically for a skin type, or balanced to suit all skin types.

Formulations that are tridoshic - suitable for all skin types - generally have many more herbs and ingredients to avoid aggravating an individual dosha (body type). The herbs should not be exposed to high temperatures, and should be of high quality and fresh. Formulations that add herbs to chemical bases or that contain artificial preservatives or fragrances are not as effective in maintaining skin health and appearance because the herbs in such formulations are not as active or have been processed. Just as processed food is said to have less nutrients than fresh food. Vata skin, space or air predominant, is delicate and tends to be naturally dry. Skin rasayanas that benefit Vata types are mainly nourishing, with subsidiary benefits such as enhancing natural glow or purifying the skin. Such herbs also balance Vata dosha in the physiology, calming and settling the mind and supporting stress management and mind/body co-ordination so that the ravages of worry and excessive mental pressure do not show up on the skin as fine lines, sagging and bags under the eyes. Nourishment and deep, ongoing rehydration are essential if Vata skin is to look healthy, plump and youthful. Brahmi (Bacopa), Shatavari (Indian Asparagus), Amla (Indian Gooseberry), Gotu kola (Indian Pennywort) and Ashwagandha (Winter Cherry) are potent Vata-pacifying skin rasayanas that help support skin elasticity, moisture balance, texture and radiance. They are ultra-nourishing, helping to regenerate skin cells and keep skin looking youthful. Triphala, made from equal parts of Indian Gooseberry, Beleric Myrobalan and Chebulic Myrobalan, are also excellent for Vata skin because it combines nourishment with a gentle detoxifying effect to enhance skin clarity. Topical formulations for Vata skin infuses these herbs with nourishing oils using traditional methodology that make the formulation effective.

Pitta skin, fire predominant, is sensitive and is generally neither dry nor oily. Skin rasayanas that support the health of Pitta skin are mainly cooling and soothing, with some element of nourishing and purifying as well. These rasayanas also balance Pitta in the physiology, balancing the emotions and strengthening the heart/mind co-ordination so that inner serenity and emotional balance are reflected on the skin as a healthy glow and brightness, and angry eruptions andÂ redness are avoided by the inclusion of herbs that help constrict capilleries, coolÂ and calm the skin. Pitta skin also requires protection, because it tends to be more photo-sensitive than other types of skin. Amla, Bhringaraj (Eclipta alba), Kumari (aloe vera), White Sandalwood, Red Sandalwood and Lajawanti (Mimosa Pudica) are considered the pre-eminent Pitta-pacifying skin rasayanas. They draw out excess heat, support the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural ability to withstand the ravages of the environment, and keep skin clear and healthy. They nourish sensitive skin tissue without irritating it. Triphala, Manjistha (Indian Madder) and Neem are also helpful for Pitta skin because they purify and clarify the skin without depleting it of moisture or youthfulness. Topical formulations for Pitta skin combine these herbs with soothing oils. Kapha skin, water or earth predominant, is oily, and tends to be congested and susceptible to attracting dust and grime. Skin rasayanas for Kapha skin are therefore first purifiers that detoxify and clarify, with subsidiary properties of being nourishing and rejuvenating. These herbs also balance Kapha dosha in the physiology, invigorating the mind and body so that the skin appears alive and vital, reducing the congestion that dulls Kapha skin. (Continues on page 14)

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Advertising Feature

Helping Hands for “Brides” by JESSICA

I do think it’s worth making extra effort with your hands and nails a few weeks before your wedding.

uite frankly nothing looks worse than red, raw inflamed skin around nails from an over excited manicurist so really you want to give her as little as possible to wreck on the wedding day. To do this follow these (5) excellent tips from JESSICA and in just two weeks you will see the difference! Protect your nails with a base coat to suit your nail type- you can find this out by visiting a JESSICA salon where manicurist will analyse your nails and prescribe the best treatment –Important if you do not have time Critical Care is a fantastic all-rounder as it strengthens weak nails and boosts growth Paint your nails regularly and add top coat- this will make you subconsciously look

after your hands and prevent you picking and peeling your nails. Phenomen Oil every night and massage a couple of drops for a minute on each cuticle and pushing them back-this will keep them soft and tidy increase blood flow to stimulate nail growth and encourage healthy nails. Exfoliate once a week with a scrub such as Ageless Hands hand silk Exfoliare to reveal soft smooth skin Massage hand cream throughout the day (at your car I the train at your desk…) this will stop skin growing up onto the nail and prevent dry cuticles for tearing.

(Continued from page 13)

formulations will reflect the herbs used in them. The same will apply to scent. Some of the most popular herbs used in Ayurvedic beauty care and their uses.

Neem, Manjistha (Indian Madder), Triphala, Tulsi (Holy Basil), Cloves and Turmeric are potent Kapha-balancing skin rasayanas. They help detoxify the skin while nourishing it at the same time. They balance oil content in the skin and enhance clarity and brightness. Because of their effective detoxification properties, these rasayanas keep Kapha skin squeaky clean, so that it stays healthy and naturally radiant. Topical formulations for Kapha skin combine these herbs with light oils. Tridoshic formulations (which means for all skin types) draw on skin rasayanas from each group to offer the combined benefits of nourishment, detoxification, protection and balanced temperature. Ayurvedic formulations in the form Lotions and Creams do not have water in them, therefore they appear to be thick in consistency. The base is generally oil in which herbs are infused for maximum potency and beeswax. The importance of this is that they should be viewed as concentrates and can be made lighter on application by using wet fingertips to massage them in. Massaging the cream or lotion helps the skin to absorb the goodness and impart the benefits. Some herbs have strong colours like turmeric, red sandalwood, manjishta (madder), saffron. Products made to traditional

Enquiries: admin@jessicaosmetics.com.au www.jessicacosmetics.com.au

Turmeric (Haldi) – Curucuma Longa: Turmeric is mainly used to ensure a glowing, bright skin. Turmeric face masks are extensively available for their skin-friendly treatment that prevents bacterial infection. Turmeric pastes cure pigmentation, maintain the pH factor and are applied on the neck, face and over-all body to enhance the complexion and brightness of skin. White Sandalwood (Chandan) – Santalum Album: The external application of chandan is through oil, powder and paste derived from the herb. The aromatic essence of chandan has made it a favourite of the beauty industry. It possesses various soothing qualities that effectively work to improve skin ailments and alleviate allergies. Herbal face masks and scrubs made from sandalwood powder cleanse the skin thoroughly and bring a healthy glow to it. Chandan has cooling properties. Red Sandalwood (Rakta Chandana) - Pterocarpus santalinus: Red sandalwood powder which has antiseptic properties and hence, it is used for

healing wounds. It is also calming and cooling. Red Sandalwood is used in face tonics, creams and lotions. Neem - Azadirachta indica: This herb is used as a skin cleanser, acne, psoriasis and eczema and to treat common hair problems like dandruff. Basil (tulsi) - Ocimum sanctum: Effective against scars and blemishes. Basil leaves contains many health benefits such as eugenol, citronellol, linalool, citral, limonene and terpineol. These compounds are known to have anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. The Basil herb contains exceptionally high levels of betacarotene, vitamin A, cryptoxanthin, lutein and zea-xanthin. These compounds help act as protective scavengers against oxygen-derived free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) that play a role in aging. Aloe Vera: Aloe Vera is used in many skin care formulations. It heals skin irritations and scars. The primal effect of this herb comes from its soothing properties. By Yasmin Sadikot, Founder, OmVeda International. For more information please visit www.omveda.com.au or call 1 300 662 383.

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The Power of Peels The skin is a living organ made up of millions of cells. Each day, thousands of cells die, fall off and are replaced by new unblemished cells from below.

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n the mature and middle aged this slow haphazard process does not allow the skin to shed age spots and its sun damaged, dull, lifeless complexion. There are two types of skin aging; intrinsic or chronological aging and extrinsic aging. Intrinsic aging is the inevitable changes in the skin which occur with the passage of time and consist of surface changes such as wrinkling, roughening of texture, skin laxity and occasionally pigment spots. These changes usually appear in the fifties and sixties. The rate of intrinsic aging in each individual is governed by heredity and there are hereditary disorders with premature aging. Extrinsic aging is the damage inflicted by the environment - the environmental wear and tear particularly the ultraviolet and infra-red irradiation of the sun. This is called photoaging. The visible results are wrinkling and sagging, pebbled surface with a dry rough leathery texture and a mottled sallow colour with scaly and pigmented patches. In order to improve the skin texture and appearance the skin must be resurfaced; that is the old skin must be removed, allowing new skin to take its place. Cosmetics cannot repair aged and sun damaged skin. Moisturisers play a useful role in skin maintenance and temporarily enhance the skins appearance. Face lifting does not remove blemishes but removes the lax redundant skin and improves the muscular tone. In order to improve the skin texture and appearance the skin must be resurfaced; that is old skin must be removed, allowing new skin to take its place. The purpose of a facial peel resurfacing is to create an even, controlled shedding of several layers of damaged skin cells. New youthful unblemished skin formed from sebaceous glands and hair follicles deep in the skin take the place of the damaged shed cells. Traditionally chemical peeling has been carried out with Phenol Solution; this produced a depigmented pallor and has been replaced by the new graduated Phenol / Croton Oil peel. TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid) peel is an alternative; it produces a healthy glow and is not absorbed into the body. A less concentrated solution can be used on thinner skin, reducing the risks of untoward complications. These solutions are generally applied by Doctors in their surgeries. In the Salon, practitioners are using Alpha and Beta Hydroxy acids. Fruit acids (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are found in naturally occurring fruits. They include glycolic acid (sugar cane), malic acid (apples), citric acid (citrus fruits) and tartaric acid (grapes). Beta Hydroxy acids such as Salicylic Acid is derived from willow bark. In low concentrations particularly Glycolic and Salicylic Acids decrease the stickiness or

Before

adhesion of skin cells and cause exfoliation; in high concentrations they cause a chemical burn and cell death by coagulation or curdling. These peels are performed over a preset period of time. These maybe weekly, fortnightly or monthly peels depending on the results required. The shorter the period between the peels and the deeper the peel the sooner the maximum benefits are obtained. The shortest is weekly peels for three months but this may be tailored to the patient’s convenience and schedule; e.g. fortnightly or monthly. Repeated and regular application to the skin diminishes wrinkles and age or pigment spots. Clients sustain their improvement with maintenance therapy and return for an annual “top-up”. The procedure is simple; a 20% glycolic or salicylic acid solution is painted on the skin for a predetermined period of time. This causes a controlled coagulation and shedding of the top layers of skin cells. This is then replaced by new skin cells growing from the undamaged layers, sweat glands and hair follicles. This new skin may be light pink in colour and fades in two weeks. This procedure is carried out in the salon/clinic and is associated with some slight discomfort. With this program your client does not have to go into “hiding or hibernation” but may return to their daily social or work activities. Some of the cosmetic houses have or are in the process of releasing light peels to correct mild problems; medium peels correct more serious defects. Mild peels give a fresh look or appearance. Repetitive peels have a cumulative effect approaching but not achieving that of one deep peel. The deeper the peel the greater the improvement but the risk of complications is also greater. Mayerling Skin Renewal System specialises in the manufacture of Glycolic and Salicylic Acid peels and anti-ageing

after

Cosmeceutical treatments. Their products are manufactured in Australia for Australian conditions and they provide full training. No preventive action can be taken to slow down intrinsic aging but many measures can be undertaken against environmental photoaging such as the avoidance of unnecessary exposure to sunlight; wearing appropriate clothing which includes a hat with a broad brim, UV blocking sunglasses and a good sunscreen. This should be broad spectrum, water proof, non-irritating, hypoallergenic and non comogenous. Cosmetics cannot slow down the aging process or repair damage already done. If they are able to do that they are no longer cosmetics by definition; as such they are therapeutically active and are subject to strict government control and tests; also they cannot be bought over the counter. However, there is a group of therapeutically active preparations available to salons; these have been called cosmeceuticals; the first such preparation was Retin-A cream. Long term daily use of this cream turned back some of the effects of aging. They have been removed from over the counter sales as later work showed they could cause birth defects in rats. Alpha Hydroxyl Acid (AHA) preparations are more effective and safer without some of the side effects of Retin-A such as irritation and photo sensitivity. Long term daily topical application of these Cosmeceuticals improves blemishes, age spots, lines and dryness. They improve the skin’s natural functions of exfoliation and hydration; the skin looks and feels better. By Toni Miller, National Training Manager. Mayerling Skin Renewal System. 02 9909 0935. www.mayerlingskincare.com

The Doctor’s Skin Peels now available to you Easy to use • Outstanding results • Developed by leading Plastic Surgeon • Adds $000’s to your bottom line • Full training and ongoing support

Take Home Range Clinically proven range of Cosmedical Take Home treatments that your clients will keep coming back for. “Clients are very happy with the results. They see the difference straight away. We have seen some incredible changes after the first treatment. Mayerling speaks for itself”. Brigitte Marden, owner of Brigitte Academie de Beaute, Five Dock, Sydney. “We have been using Mayerling Skin Renewal Systems since 2003. With the retail products, we have had fantastic feedback especially with the Mayerling Forte Creams / Lotion and Eye Cream. If you are looking for a product that works, and is easy to use then I would highly recommend Mayerling Skin Renewal Systems. As well as being a fantastic product it is also cost effective.” Marilyn Klein, Owner of Boudoir Day Spa, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Japan. I have worked as a beautician for 35 years both in Paris and New Caledonia. For a long time, I have appreciated and used the best French Beauty Products. Now I use and refer Mayerling to all my clients. It is a TRUE ANTI-AGING PRODUCT. I have only one advice for you. Try Mayerling once and you will be converted. Elisabeth Henin, Owner of SERENITE Salon, Noumea, New Caledonia

If you are interested in being appointed as an exclusive MAYERLING Skin Renewal System Salon for your area contact us now on +612 9909 0935

Enquires +612 9909 0935 www.mayerlingskincare.com

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Skin and the Brain: Uncovering New Links While scientific research during the past century has focused on identifying and studying separate somatic structures, functions and conditions, the newest discoveries spanning many disciplines uncover more about relationships between the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s systems than the individual systems themselves. One area where this research is especially compelling is the ongoing dialogue between skin and the brain. (Continues Overleaf)

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“In the practice of traditional Chinese medicine, the doctor would always look at the patient’s tongue, reading its coating, color and texture”

A Reflection of the Brain In utero, both skin cells and brain cells develop from the same kind of embryonic tissue, called ectoderm. In the January 2012 issue of Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, researchers at the Stanford University School of Medicine in California conducting a study on mice were able to transform skin cells directly into brain cells, bypassing the stem cell stage, and further demonstrating this fundamental physiological link between skin and the brain. Throughout life, the skin may be a reflection of changes within the brain, triggered by cascades of brain chemicals that have only recently started to be named and explored. For instance, the rise in adult acne may be linked to stress, which elevates both testosterone and cortisol levels. With natural aging, the decline of estrogen contributes to the loss of collagen and elastin, and the proliferation of hyperpigmentation – and these changes also affect the brain. The Role of Oxytocin Much has been written throughout the past several years about the role of oxytocin – a neuropeptide colloquially called the “love hormone” – relative to being touched. Oxytocin is a neurochemical produced by the brains of both female and male mammals. In animal studies, it is linked with lactation and pup recognition. In the human context, it may be the basis of much bonding, including sexual

bonding. The touch that is experienced in a safe, nonthreatening context also releases other feelgood chemicals known as beta-endorphins. Consider that very few recently divorced people say that they miss the wild, heartpounding sex of their marriage; instead, they miss the comfy morning spooning, the hugs, the warmth and the familiar aroma of their former partner – in other words, the relaxed physical companionship of married life. In fact, a great deal of mammalian sexual expression may have more to do with oxytocin, which could be called the chemical basis of familial love, versus the simpler reproductive sex hormones of estrogen, progesterone and testosterone. Body/Mind Collaboration The rise of modern allopathic medicine has led to a tendency to segment and compartmentalize the body – and especially the mind – as if they are all disparate parts of a machine. This mechanistic view has been important and, in fact, necessary in order to classify diseases and establish research protocols in the modern sense. But what’s intriguing from a scientific perspective these days is that some of the long-dismissed beliefs about how the body and mind work together now bear closer re-examination. In today’s era of medical specialization, it is easy to forget the beliefs of ancient healing traditions: All of the aspects of the body interact, although the current understanding of this interaction remains incomplete. For

instance, in the practice of traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), the doctor would always look at the patient’s tongue, reading its coating, color and texture. This holistic approach, including reading the skin for cues to internal health, is now inviting more serious consideration from even conventional Western medicine. This may be the case in the area that is the top priority of every skin care professional: anti-aging. For instance, neurobiologist Douglas Fields, PhD, author of the book The Other Brain (Simon & Schuster, 2009), expresses the opinion that skin aging is not simply a cosmetic condition – it’s a highly informative marker of internal aging and health, including brain health. Chronic inflammation caused by immune system chemicals affects the aging process of the skin, especially in response to UV damage, and the aging brain, which loses plasticity in response to a decline in the biological processes of lipid synthesis, cholesterol synthesis and fatty acid synthesis. Fields states in a recent article in The Huffington Post, “Preventing premature aging of the brain may not be as easy as preventing premature aging of skin with sunscreen, but a careful look at your skin could tell you how well you are doing below the surface.” A Silent Voice Skin care professionals often view human skin as a second, silent voice. Skin speaks. Skin tells a great deal about the person inside

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“Your real hands-on job is to restore humanity, one skin at a time, through what once was called the laying on of hands”

it. As skin care professionals, it is your job to learn the language of the skin: read it, hear it, interpret it and respond to it. All professionals who touch human skin must become experts in sensing energetic messages. You must become empathetic, feeling what your clients feel. This aspect of the skin care profession is often mocked with words, such as “touchy-feely” and “warm and fuzzy.” If these are criticisms, you should accept them with open arms. Today’s society is correctly described as touch-deprived. Three decades ago, John Naisbitt, author of Megatrends: Ten New Directions Transforming Our Lives (Grand Central Publishing, 1988), warned about the need for “high-touch” to offset the loneliness of the coming digital revolution and today, Faith Popcorn and other social analysts echo this concern. A century earlier, Victorian pediatricians noted what they called a “failure to thrive” among infants raised in state-run orphanages. The children were, to quote the song in the film Mary Poppins, scrubbed and tubbed and adequately fed, but they were not cuddled or held. Some people with certain neurological conditions, such as autism, as well as those experiencing post-traumatic stress disorder or other disorders, cannot stand to be touched. Clinicians of every discipline agree that the lack of skin-on-skin interaction intensifies their dysfunction. Although few suffer to this extreme, the widespread cultural lack of touch

in a casual, social sense contributes to a sense of alienation and resultant stress, depression and an array of psycho-emotional disorders. This is a large reason why many clients visit skin care professionals – for an hour of the warm skinon-skin contact they aren’t getting elsewhere. Energetic and Empathetic Skin care professionals and massage therapists represent two of the few remaining professions on Earth where practitioners can touch the skin of clients. They devote many hours of study to the structure and function of the skin, conditions that affect the skin, actual skin diseases and, of course, the evolving spectrum of potential therapies and treatments. However, much of what makes you passionate about your work – and what therefore makes you successful in your business – is not clinically based. It is energetic and empathic. Make an effort to touch the skin of every person who crosses the threshold of your skin care facility – no appointment needed, no makeup removal needed, no disrobing, no obligation to buy. Just touching the skin forms the basis of a tactile “map” in the neurons of a skin care professional. Feel for tension, gritty areas, tight areas, slick areas indicating excess sebum, hot areas signaling congestion and possible future breakouts, and more. Can empathy be taught? Yes, but it helps if you’re born that way. Most skin care professionals are born with a predisposition to

want to connect with people. Otherwise, you would prefer a more isolationist profession. All of this places your work into clear context. Your job is not only to clear comedones or to break up lactic acid in overworked muscles as part of a sports massage. Your real hands-on job is to restore humanity, one skin at a time, through what once was called the laying on of hands. It keeps you human, and more humanity is what the world needs now. Is there a Correlation? Most likely, skin care clients who gaze in the mirror don’t see their fine lines, wrinkles, loss of contour, loss of firmness and patches of hyperpigmentation as indicators of their brain health. But could there, in fact, be a correlation? And, to take an even greater leap, would protecting the skin from inflammatory assault also offer related protection to internal systems and organs, including the brain? Although further study is needed, many new findings, such as those included in this article, suggest that how radically and rapidly a person’s skin ages, dictated by both genetic and lifestyle factors, may suggest how the brain is faring, as well. In this sense, youthfullooking skin may be indicative of far more than just another pretty face. By Dr. Claudia Aguirre and Annet King (as seen in Skin Inc. Magazine), The International Dermal Institute, Postgraduate Education in Skin and Body Therapy.

SATURDAY 23 & SUNDAY 24 AUGUST 2014 SYDNEY EXHIBITION CENTRE, GLEBE ISLAND

TICKETS NOW ON SALE – BUY ONLINE AND SAVE! Celebrate your industry, expand your professional horizons and experience the latest spa and beauty products, treatments, ideas and equipment. There is something new every year. You can’t afford to miss it.

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SATUR RDAY 23 & SUNDAY 24 AUGUST 2014 | SYDNEY EXHIBITION CENTER, GLEBE ISLAND

We arre proud to present the third editio on of the Business Leaders’ Summ mit, a place where spa, beautyy and medi-cosmetic owners comee together in a never before seenn congregated force to share knowleedge and real life experiences on how you and your business can grow in 2014. www.businessleaderssummit.com.au

Brought to you by the Sydney International Spa & Beauty Expo

The Australian Beauty Therapist Magazine

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Advertising Feature

Change on the agenda for Sydney International Spa & Beauty Expo 2014

s Australia’s largest spa and beauty event, the Sydney International Spa & Beauty Expo brings together the latest offering of products and services from across the worlds of beauty, rejuvenation, cosmeceuticals and wellbeing – all under the one roof. With a new line-up and a range of added features – including an exciting new waterside venue at the Sydney Exhibition Centre, Glebe Island – clear your diaries for Saturday August 23 and Sunday August 24 and get set for this year’s beauty extravaganza. “Whether it’s education, brands or talent, the Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo is constantly evolving. This year, amongst an array of fresh features – including an increased focus into the worlds of wellness and medi-based treatments – visitors will not only be provided with a one-stop-shop to the latest products and services, but also be able to gain invaluable knowledge on how to successfully tap into these two rapidly growing markets,” says Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo Event Director, Amelia Coote-Harris.

ON THE FLOOR From the latest in make-up to organic beauty, this year’s exhibition floor is jampacked with features.Fresh to the Expo floor is a newly created Medi-Stage that will showcase leading treatments live in-action from some of the industry’s latest cosmeceutical innovations. Back by popular demand is the Medi Spa Area, along with the popular Wellness, New Business and Meet the Expert Zones. The New Business Zone offers visitors unique access to unearth the latest innovations from a range of up and coming brands. With more than 250 brands expected, visitors can anticipate seeing leading industry names like, International Beauty Supplies, Napoleon Perdis, Caron Laboratories, Mancine, Young Blood, BioLink, Switch Funky, BioSculpture, Pacific Nail and many more. MAIN STAGE ACTION For the latest in trends and techniques, the Main Stage will provide non-stop inspiration with live demonstrations, fashion and nail shows to make the two-day Expo a show-stopping

experience. Names already confirmed in the line-up include the likes of celebrity artists, Dale Dorning, Michael Brown and Rae Morris. EDUCATION This year’s extensive educational offering will grant access to a range of experts, ranging from practical beauty skills, to business acumen. Already locked-in for the 2014 line-up is make-up maestro, Jazz Pampling, Rae Morris; Channel Nine’s MORNINGS’ Michael Brown; An insight into Male Skincare with Dermalogica; Bridal Hair and Makeup and a hands on look into eyebrow threading. EVENTS In its third edition, the invaluable Business Leaders Summit is back for 2014. This year’s theme, “How Will The World Remember You?”, offers a high profile agenda of keynote speakers to strategically educate salon and spa owners on elevating business performance to new heights. www.internationalbeautyexpo.com

Salon Melbourne 2014 Stellar Fifth Year

elebrating its most successful event to date, Salon Melbourne 2014 delivered another show-stopping showcase of hair and beauty to the industry. Experiencing unparalleled growth in exhibitors, pre-event tickets, registration and its largest visitor count yet – the 2014 expo offered two days of non-stop education, inspiration, sourcing and networking all under the one roof. Introducing a range of new additions in 2014, visitors experienced an even greater focus on the growing markets of medi and wellness, including a new Medi Stage that showcased a range of innovative treatments live in action. For expert tips and tricks the Salon Melbourne Main Stage provided non-stop inspiration, showcasing industry experts such as Lizzie Liros; Rae Morris; brow extraordinaire, Jazz Pampling and Channel Nine’s MORNINGS’ beauty expert, Michael Brown to name a few. With an increased focus on education, visitors were able to take advantage of the diverse line-up of practical, strategic and

business orientated seminars including, Age Management: Skincare & Technology with Suzie Hoitink; An Introduction to Body Sugaring with Katherine Patterson and Business Consulting with Julie Piantadosi. This year’s cost effective Salon Melbourne Education Pass also enabled visitors to get more for less – offering access to three selected seminars of their choice (for the reduced price of $249). To add a party to the mix, the Salon Melbourne Sunday Night Show provided a chance for industry guests to let down their hair and enjoy a visual extravaganza. Themed ‘Colour Obsession’, the educational night offered an explosion of creativity from hair heavyweight Redken, with Bodyography as the night’s official make-up partner, bringing the theme to life through its cosmetic artistry. “Salon Melbourne has been growing continuously since its beginnings in 2010 and we could not be more pleased with this year’s incredible performance”, says Event Director, Amelia Coote-Harris. “Year on year we

are constantly looking at ways to better the event and deliver unique opportunities for the Victorian market, and this year’s results show us that the local industry is appreciating our efforts whole heartedly. With a range of additions already in play for next year, we can’t wait to deliver an even better Salon Melbourne 2015.” From the latest in products to education, there’s no mistaking Salon Melbourne as Victoria’s premier hair and beauty destination. Celebrating year on year growth, next year’s show is gearing up to be even bigger and better. So if you’re a brand looking for exposure in Australia’s fashion capital make sure you book in for Salon Melbourne 2015!

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Advertising Feature

Tudor Beauty Products At 72 years of age, Isabel East is considered by many to be part of the Australian beauty industry’s establishment.

hatever she’s doing must be working, as her youthful looks belie her age and years of experience. More than forty years ago, the London-trained beauty therapist established Tudor Beauty Products when she recognised a need for good value, high quality, locally produced beauty products at prices that would support the growth of Australia’s independent beauty therapists. Since then, she has spent the last four decades researching, developing, manufacturing and supplying a comprehensive range of salon standard products, Tudor BioBalance, to beauty therapists Australiawide, allowing them to streamline their salon expenses without compromising on quality. It is Isabel’s unique understanding of the needs and wants of both salon professionals and the every-day Australian consumer that has enabled Tudor Beauty Products and the BioBalance range to thrive. Over the years, Isabel has seen incredible advancements in technology and manufacturing processes as well as a trend

towards offshore production, but her ongoing commitment to supporting Australian industry means jobs and profits stay within Australia and wherever possible, her raw materials are sourced locally. Although she has enjoyed long-lasting success, Isabel has chosen to keep Tudor Beauty Products small enough to maintain personal contact and service with all her clients, some of whom have been loyal followers since the company’s inception in 1971. It is the quality and value for money, at the forefront of all Tudor Beauty Products’ developments, that keep her happy clientele coming back year on year. Containing highly effective ingredients, Tudor Beauty Products formulations are designed to meet the demands of discerning Australian consumers, as well as combat the negative effects of a potentially skin-damaging Australian climate. Available in salon-bulk or sale-ready retail packaging, the range includes cleansers, toners, hydrating and moisturising lotions, face and body scrubs, masks, skin peels,

and massage creams, none of which are, or ever will be tested on animals. If you’re a salon operator looking to retain maximum profi ts while maintaining professional standards, Tudor Beauty Products may be just the professional supply partner you’ve been looking for. Isabel welcomes all trade enquiries, including those from TAFE and private beauty colleges because she believes in supporting the Australian beauty industry and in getting new practitioners off on the right foot. Current students can even take advantage of a wholesale priced start-up package for home practice. When asked how long she intends to keep up her enviable pace, she simply smiles and answers “As long as there’s a need.” If that’s the case, then she won’t be slowing down any time soon! For more information about becoming a Tudor Beauty Products distributor or to find an existing distributor in your local area, visit: www.tudorbeautyproducts.com.au or call (02) 9453 3872.

TUDOR

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The Australian Beauty Therapist Magazine

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The natural laws of nature favour symmetry. Gravity pulls planets into reasonably symmetrical orbits. Electronic forces do the same with atoms. Living things whether they be plants or animals are generally symmetrical – as are human beings.

Figure 1: The duckling among the chicks is not an ugly duckling but he “breaks the pattern” by virtue of size, colour and a different beak. The attention of the observer is naturally drawn to him.

ecause natural laws favour symmetry, humans and animals have a natural ability to detect a “break in the pattern” because that can be important for survival. A cat senses the sudden movement of a mouse out of the corner of its eye which breaks the pattern of stillness. A shark senses the rhythm of an injured fish flailing in the water which breaks the pattern of healthy fish swimming normally. Malignant cells defy natural laws and that is why malignant melanomas, unlike harmless moles, usually “break the pattern” by arising randomly, becoming irregular in shape, pattern and colour and eventually larger than expected and larger than other spots around them. Doctors (as well as beauty therapists, nail technicians, massage therapists and hair dressers) are in a position to recognise these features which “break the pattern” leading to a more careful evaluation of the spot.

A melanoma on a solarium-user

Figure 2: A heavily pigmented spot which appeared and grew on the abdomen of a 34 year-old lady over a period of 12 months. This is a good example of a spot that “breaks the pattern” because it is large, irregular and very dark on skin that is otherwise free of any blemishes. A 34 year-old solarium user from Poland presented to a doctor in Australia because a

spot which had been growing on her abdomen had started bleeding (Figure 2). The spot “broke the pattern” in such a way that it could not be missed as being out of place by any observer. It was the only spot of significance on her abdomen having arisen randomly and it was large, irregular in shape and very dark. In Poland melanomas are much less common than in Australia, so general awareness of them is less and they tend to present at a more advanced stage as this one did. The patient had been a solarium user and this is known to significantly increase risk of melanoma. The melanoma has been removed and the young lady has been told that time will tell if it has been cured. She now has an examination every three months to check for new melanomas and to make sure there is no evidence of spread of the melanoma which has been excised. An invasive melanoma may have metastasised (spread) before removal and there is no way to detect small metastases until they cause symptoms.

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Doctors (as well as beauty therapists, nail technicians, massage therapists and hair dressers) are in a position to recognise these features which “break the pattern” leading to a more careful evaluation of the spot. If a spot has a shape that looks like a drawing beware!

to malignancy of grey dots and also radial lines (figure 4 arrow). The spot was excised and found to be a melanoma confined to the surface layer of skin (the epidermis). Melanomas confined to the epidermis are cured by excision because there are no blood vessels in the epidermis which means that they cannot metastasise (spread to distant parts of the body). Clues to malignancy can be very small and only visible if a dermatoscope is used.

Figure 3: This small spot on the arm of a 31 year-old lady caught the doctor’s eye when she was showing something on her husband’s back, because it was shaped like a heart. Because moles are not expected to look like a drawing of an object the doctor examined it with a dermatoscope which showed clues to early curable melanoma (figure 4) – which it was.

Figure 4: Dermatoscopic image of the small melanoma shown in figure 3. There is asymmetry and the additional clues to malignancy of grey dots (centrally) and radial lines (arrow). A 40 year-old man was brought to the doctor by his 31 year-old wife because she was worried about a spot on his back. When she pulled his shirt up to show the doctor his back, her sleeve rose up and revealed a small heart-shaped spot on her arm (Figure 3). There was nothing suspicious on her husband’s back but the spot on her arm attracted the doctor’s attention because a spot, even if small, with the shape of a created or evolved object is not expected. However a tiny spot like this cannot be diagnosed on its naked-eye appearance alone, as was possible with the case in figure 2, so the doctor examined it with a hand-held skin microscope (dermatoscope) (Figure 4). This revealed asymmetry with the additional clues

Figure 5: Four different types of dermatoscopes, or skin microscopes, which allow a trained doctor to see details of structure and colour within a spot. Dermatoscopy-use is proven to increase the accuracy of diagnosis of skin cancers and is now “standard of care” for doctors who treat melanoma. If you are referring a patient with a suspected melanoma you should preferably refer to the patient’s own doctor but if the patient does not have a regular doctor you should refer to a doctor you know to be trained in the use of a dermatoscope. The use of dermatoscopy is now “standard of care” for all doctors in Australia or New Zealand who treat spots suspicious for melanoma. A new flat mole is not expected on the face of an adult

Figure 6: A large flat dark spot “breaks the pattern” on the face of a 50 year-old lady. It has appeared over the last couple of years so it must be a solar lentigo (large freckle) or a melanoma because new flat moles are not expected on the face in adulthood. A solar lentigo should be regularly pigmented and the edge should be sharply demarcated all around. This was a curable melanoma. A 50 year-old lady presented to her doctor for a medical certificate and he noticed a dark spot on the right side of her face (figure 6). It “broke the pattern”, being the only spot present at that location and it was large. A new flat dark spot on the face at mature age can be a type of freckle called a solar lentigo, or it can be a melanoma. It will not be a mole because new moles are not expected on the face at mature age. A close inspection (Figure 6B) revealed that the spot did not have the features expected of a solar lentigo. Notably the pigmentation was irregular and the border of the spot was not sharply demarcated over its entire extent. As a new mole is not expected at mature age the diagnosis of melanoma was predicted and this was confirmed when the spot was excised. Even though this spot was quite large it was still confined to the epidermis so cure could confidently be predicted. Points to Remember • Be alert to spots that “break the pattern” due to shape, colour or size or by being the only one of their kind at that location • New flat moles are not expected on the face in adulthood. If a new spot is unevenly pigmented or growing continuously suspect melanoma • Pigmented skin spots should be assessed by a doctor with a dermatoscope and trained in its use. To locate doctors who are members of the Skin Cancer College Australasia, which actively promotes quality of care including dermatoscope use go to: www.skincancercollege.org/locate-doctor/ By Dr Cliff Rosendahl MBBS, PhD Associate Professor, The University of Queensland, Australia.

High maintenance?

GernĂŠtic: a complete range for even the most demanding skin. (02) 9452 6230 gernetic@vitalplus.com.au www.gernetic.com.au

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Beauty from the Inside Out When it comes to the old adage, you are what you eat, no statement is truer when it comes to our skin, hair and nails.

The Australian Beauty Therapist Magazine

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nd when it comes to real food, they are all super foods. Each food has its own unique combination of nutritional benefits to offer and help you get your glow on. Here is a list to highlight some of the beauty superstars. Almonds Contain vitamin E, copper, magnesium, manganese, potassium, and calcium, all of which are essential to skin oxygenation and function. Apple Cider Vinegar Helps stimulate digestion, critical to all beauty processes. It may also be a helpful natural remedy for dandruff, because the acids in the vinegar can help stop the fungus-causing chemical imbalances in the skin of the scalp. Avocados A good source of biotin and monounsaturated fats, avocados help to prevent dry skin and brittle hair and nails; when applied topically, they help to hydrate dry skin. For me, they are a super special beauty food. Beetroots Beetroot contains nitrates, which produce a gas called nitric oxide in the blood, which widens blood vessels and lowers blood pressure; it is also important for blood flow to skin. Blueberries One of the richest sources of antioxidants, these beautiful and delicious berries can help counteract premature aging. Brazil Nuts These are a good source of the antioxidant selenium, which helps increase the number of infection-fighting white blood cells in the body, as well as protect against cellular damage. For skin care, selenium’s antioxidant properties regenerate vitamins E and C, thereby decreasing the aging of skin. A truly amazing nut! Broccoli and Cauliflower Vegetables worthy of their superstar accolades, they are potent sources of antioxidants, as well as many vitamins and minerals, which help aid cellular repair. Vegetables in the Brassica family contain indoles, substances that help the liver detoxify hormones, which can help with sex hormone balance, which is critical for clear skin.

Coconuts Coconuts are great for your skin and body, inside and out. Containing vitamins A and C, and natural proteins, coconuts also contain mediumchain triglycerides, which are a wonderful fuel for the body, and also possess antibacterial properties. Lauric acid, for example, has been scientifically shown to have a stronger action against the bacteria often involved with acne than benzoyl peroxide, an ingredient in many medicated skin washes and some prescription acne medications. Topically, coconut oil is a great way to moisturize your skin naturally. Eggs Eggs are a complete source of protein. They contain biotin, an essential vitamin that protects against dry skin, and is also helpful for nail and hair health. Eggs also contain iron, which is vital for oxygenation of the entire body, including the skin. Fresh Oily Fish This is a wonderful source of omega-3 fats, which dampen down inflammation in the body and also help keep skin moisturised. Fresh salmon also contains astaxanthin, a carotenoid that improves skin elasticity. Green Tea This wonderful skin-friendly beverage is packed full of antioxidants that are protective against cellular damage throughout the body, including the aging process of the skin. Kale Kale contains the beauty vitamins A, C, and E, which have potent anti-aging properties and help promote healthy new cell growth. It is also loaded with minerals, such as magnesium and calcium, which healthy skin needs; these minerals are also critical to our ability to relax and are highly alkaline. Kiwifruit Kiwifruit is a rich source of vitamin C and antioxidants, which help keep skin firm and slow down the formation of wrinkles, and are also great for healthy teeth and bones. The antioxidants in kiwifruit have also been shown to help protect against cancer and heart disease. Lemons Rich in vitamin C, lemons are great for the skin and also stimulate digestion — starting your day with lemon in warm water is a wonderful way to kick-start your digestion. The goodies in lemons are crucial for all aspects of beauty, obtaining the maximum nutrition from your diet and helping to supply your skin, hair and nails with nutrients.

Olive Oil High-quality olive oil is a good source of monounsaturated fats, which offer protective benefits for heart health. It contains fatty acids that help keep skin soft and supple, and used in hair treatments, skin care, and lip balms, it helps restore shine and vitality. Parsley Its flavonoids, especially luteolin, have been shown to function as antioxidants that combine with highly reactive oxygencontaining molecules and help prevent oxygen-based damage to cells. Parsley has anti-inflammatory properties, is highly alkaline, and contains vitamin C and iron, important for the oxygenation of every tissue in your body. One of my absolute favourite foods. Spinach This leafy green vegetable is rich in a wide range of nutrients and antioxidants. It is loaded with lutein, which keeps your vision and your eyes healthy and sparkling. Sunflower Seeds Sunflower seeds are a good source of vitamin E, a protective antioxidant that helps skin glow. They also contain zinc, which keeps your skin, hair, and eyes healthy, and is critical for wound healing and scar prevention. Walnuts Walnuts are a rich source of omega-3 fats, which help put shine in your hair and aid in making skin smooth and soft. If you observe that your skin, hair and nails are not in the shape you would like them to be, rather than (or perhaps as well as!) applying creams, pills and potions, consider that your body may simply be trying to draw your attention to an area of your health, that, if you altered, may make an enormous difference to your wellbeing. By Dr Libby Weaver. Dr Libby’s book Beauty From The Inside Out, expertly explains exactly what your body needs to create lovely nails, lustrous hair, sparkling eyes, and clear, luminous skin. She also shares what is necessary to eliminate beauty bumps in the road such as dark circles under the eyes, flakey nails, eczema, pimples and hair that’s falling out, to name a few. Dr Libby deciphers how the food you eat, the nutrients you ingest, hydration, posture, movement, skin care, and your beliefs and emotions all contribute to your own personal sparkle. For more information visit: www.drlibby.com

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The Australian Beauty Therapist Magazine

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CIDESCO Introduces a Portfolio of New Diplomas New Spa Therapy Diploma, Beauty & Spa Management Diploma and Media Make-up Diploma

IDESCO, the world standard for Beauty and Spa Therapy with accredited schools in over 33 countries worldwide, announces the launch of three exciting new Diplomas which will appeal to a growing number of students keen to enter or develop and progress into this dynamic and expanding industry. CIDESCO, which has been defining professional standards in the Beauty Therapy Industry since 1946, has developed three new Diplomas, in response to the dynamic growth and development in the Beauty and Spa Industry. The new Diplomas offer the highest standards of professional qualifications and will provide graduates with the means to equip themselves with the skills to succeed. Any student obtaining a CIDESCO qualification can be assured that the qualification will be recognised and respected worldwide within the Beauty and Spa Industry, and will enable them to ‘stand out’ in an increasingly competitive skills market. The three new qualifications include: The Spa Therapy Diploma – this qualification gives candidates the opportunity to obtain a Diploma in ‘Spa Therapy’ without the prerequisite of a qualification in Beauty Therapy. CIDESCO recognised the need for a ‘stand alone’ qualification which is now available to anyone who would like to pursue a career in the spa industry. Beauty & Spa Management Diploma the new CIDESCO Beauty & Spa Management Diploma has been developed to give graduates a real competitive ‘edge’ in the market place. The course includes a greater emphasis on the range of activities required to manage an organisation or business such as human resources planning and customer service. This Post Graduate Diploma is available to holders of the CIDESCO Diploma in Beauty Therapy and/or Spa Therapy and will equip any student

with the necessary skills to undertake a management role. Media Make–up Diploma – open to candidates who have a passion for creative make-up to enable them to be employed in media, theatre, TV and fashion. The CIDESCO Media Make-up Diploma teaches students how to apply make-up for television, film, catwalk and fashion industry magazines and theatre as well as prosthetics and other areas which require special effects make-up. Launching the new Diplomas, CIDESCO’s President Anna-Cari Gund says: “The introduction of our new Diplomas will open up careers in the Beauty and Spa Industry to a great many more people whilst still maintaining standards. By offering a range of CIDESCO qualifications, schools and colleges can provide students with a flexible and supportive approach to their education and development in the Beauty and Spa Industry. With a CIDESCO qualification they can be assured that they have received a world class qualification that is second to none.” CIDESCO Diplomas include: • Beauty Therapy Diploma • Post Graduate Beauty Therapy Diploma (available to qualified therapists with a minimum of three year’s professional experience) • Post Graduate Spa Diploma • Spa Therapy Diploma • Post Graduate Beauty & Spa Management Diploma • Post Graduate Aromatherapy Diploma • Post Graduate Electrical Epilation (Electrolysis) Diploma • Media Make-up Diploma To register interest in the new Diplomas or to find out more please contact info@cidesco.com, Tel +41 444482200 or visit www.cidesco.com

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CIDESCO News

2014 24th-26th October

62nd CIDESCO World Congress and Exhibition of Aesthetics, Health and Beauty. Royal Olympic Hotel, Athens Greece. Organised by CIDESCO Section Hellas. www.cidesco.com

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Business Matters

What is franchising?

Get Threaded’s newest franchisee, Parminder with her team, all set to shape some brows. Her Get Threaded franchise allowed her to realize her dream of owning her own business.

he Franchise Council of Australia defines the answer to this question below; Franchising is not a business itself, but a way of doing business. It is essentially a marketing concept - an innovative method of distributing goods and services. It is also an extremely successful and rapidly growing aspect of Australia’s small business sector. Franchising is a business relationship in which the franchisor (the owner of the business providing the product or service) assigns to independent people (the franchisees) the right to market and distribute the franchisor’s goods or service, and to use the business name for a fixed period of time. The International Franchise Association defines franchising as a “continuing relationship in which the franchisor provides a licensed privilege to do business, plus assistance in organising

training, merchandising and management in return for a consideration from the franchisee”. In Australia, the beauty industry is booming and so are franchised beauty businesses as more and more people learn the benefits of becoming a franchisee. Let’s look at the question that most people are unsure about when it comes to franchising and in turn we answer why it can be a positive. Why should I buy a franchise when I can just start my own business? When you purchase a franchise you are purchasing a system that has been trialled and tested extensively. The services, the products and the way they are delivered to the client have all had the groundwork completed and form the base of any business. Sometimes this testing has occurred over many years

and starting from scratch for your own business means the start of a long process if you want to create a business that stands the test of time. -You are purchasing the rights to a brand that may have a significant profile already. If a company is franchising, chances are they didn’t wake up overnight and start selling franchises. A goal and long term plan were created and a brand profile becomes part of this. This profile will continue to grow and expand as more franchisees enter the system and you will reap the benefits of being part of a brand instead of a standalone business. -If you purchase a franchise from a brand with strong support and training in place for their franchisees, you are able to learn the strategies to work on your business and not just in it with the help of your franchise support

team. Just like no great athlete ever did it without a coach, business is the same. In this case you have a dedicated business partner that knows your business inside and out and can help you set and work towards your goals. Not all businesses are the same and that goes for franchises to so it’s important to research into the brand, talk with as many people as you can and seek advice from your accountant and legal professional. These people form part of your team and will help you with your plan to succeed in your future franchise. By Liz See, owner of beauty franchise business, Get Threaded. Get Threaded specializes in the ancient art of threading and other ‘as natural as possible ‘beauty services. Opportunities now available worldwide. www.getthreadednow.com

Beauty

www.serviceskills.com.au

2014 Environmental Scan Snapshot Latest Industry Intelligence There were

20,331

There were

18,200

Beauty Therapists in Australia in November 2012,

hairdressing and beauty services businesses operating at the end of June 2012, an increase of

165 businesses

Growing Demand Beauty therapy salons have seen significant growth due to a stronger societal culture of the importance of personal grooming, with services such as manicures, pedicures, eyebrow grooming, body hair removal and facials seen as a basic and regular requirement. This has been credited to an ageing population, the normalisation of male grooming and the growing societal focus of health and appearance.

which is expected to grow by

17%,

or 3,100 workers, in the five years to November 2017.

Sustainability

Digital Age

Awareness of the need for environmental sustainability among Australian consumers has led to a strong emergence of salons specialising in the use of organic and natural beauty products. Many beauty salons have also begun to adopt sustainable practices in relation to their water and energy use and waste management.

Salons are increasingly incorporating technology in their business processes. This includes the use of appointment management software and text messages for appointment confirmation. Salon workers in the beauty sector require sufficient digital literacy skills to effectively engage with these technologies.

Intersection with the Tourism Industry The beauty sector continues to draw upon the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;visitor economyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; as a source of clientele due to the societal shift towards health, fitness and relaxation as a component of travel. This is evident in the continued increase in the number of day spas, health resorts and salon services within hotels that provide beauty treatments.

Advanced Treatments While comprising only a small portion of the services offered by the sector, the emergence of advanced treatments for skin rejuvenation and hair reduction has encouraged an expansion of services within traditional beauty salons and the growth of specialised clinics. In some instances, specialised clinics will see practitioners from a range of fields and disciplines working as a team. These industry developments require a range of advanced skills to work effectively.

Occupations in Demand • Beauty Therapist • Nail Technician

• H air or Beauty Salon Manager

Beauty Training Package Enrolments Qualification

2008

2009

2010

2011

2012

Certificate II in Retail Make-up and Skin care

1951

2045

2285

4314

4584

Certificate II in Nail Technology

1093

1341

1157

1629

1794

Certificate III in Beauty Services

2650

3151

3610

3941

4408

Certificate III in Nail Technology*

Certificate IV in Beauty Therapy

1975

2082

2206

2447

3176

Diploma of Beauty Therapy

1178

1812

3263

3788

3560

Diploma of Salon Management

216

Vocational Graduate Certificate in Intense Pulsed Light and Laser Hair Reduction

*This qualification has been superseded

Future Directions for the SIB Beauty Training Package A review of the SIB Beauty Training Package commenced in 2012, and in addition to transitioning to the NSSC Standards for Training Packages, is seeking to respond to areas of change in the industry. Units of competency have been drafted to provide skills and knowledge for treatments delivered by the industry that are not yet covered within the training package. Additionally, units of competency are have been drafted in response to the advanced treatments offered within industry to provide skills and knowledge for advanced consultation, treatments for complex skin needs, intense pulsed light and laser use for hair removal and skin rejuvenation.

Please see the complete Wholesale, Retail and Personal Services Environmental Scan for the sources of statistics contained in this snapshot. Visit serviceskills.com.au/our-environmental-scans for a copy.

www.serviceskills.com.au

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Business Matters

The 5 Key Success Principles in Business Who is the most important investment? It is Yourself of course.

The Australian Beauty Therapist Magazine

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hat are your success principles and what does it take to be a success? What is the definition of success? How do we benchmark success? You would have probably heard that success is the journey and not the destination. This is so true as when we do achieve that goal or objective we realise that we could still be unhappy or not that successful as we thought we would be and so we strive for the next one. We must realise that success is here and in the present and we need to be embracing it along with the challenges we face in business and in life. Know your Outcome Whenever someone tells me their goals I usually ask them, “What is your outcome of achieving that goal “? There is usually a silence followed by “What do you mean”. Making goals is great and we should all be making goals either on paper on in our heads. Then we should share that specific goal with others so that we then become accountable towards ourselves and we need to display integrity in the eyes of others. But one thing is even more important is that we also need to indentify the outcome (the real reason) and consequences of us achieving that goal. Firstly is the outcome a worthy one that has meaningful and long term benefits. Then have we thought about the sacrifices, the discipline, maybe the loneliness of the journey as we could lose friends along the way. Then have we thought about why we want to do it and when we achieve it how is it going to be of real benefit to us. Is it going to make us happier or successful? Maybe it could be the wrong goal. In that case let`s be realistic and go for a goal that even though might be difficult to achieve but it is more meaningful in the long term.

Take Action Once the goal or objective is decided then we need to take action and start the process. You see sometimes we forget to put a time frame on achieving our goals. So yes, we make the goals but then procrastinate as we get sidetracked or wait for the right time to start the process. You and I know that perfect time to start will never arrive as life is not perfect as we don`t know what is ahead of us. So the best time to start is now. Be Aware and In-tune with your surroundings How aware are we of our surroundings and even more so the people that we surround ourselves with and others that and come into our lives on a day to day basis. If you think about this it then narrows to our family, close friends and of course our staff and in some cases our business partner. Do we realise that we learn from these people as we have been doing so for years through our 5 senses unconsciously. They are our Visual, Auditory (hearing), Kinesthetic (feeling), Olfactory (smell) and Gustatory (taste) All of these five senses have been recording related information that becomes memory which relates to behaviour that forms habits. These habits are then carried into our live and definitely our work environment and our salon business. So ultimately how acutely sharp are we to our business surroundings that is made up of our staff and clients and what are they saying to us that we can learn from and then fine-tune and deliver the solutions back to them that creates a response of productivity and empowerment from your staff and loyalty from your clients that become advocates for the business. Be Focus but Flexible We all know that we need to be focus in anything we do to be

successful, but what of flexibility. Behavioural Flexibility is probably the most important key to personal and business success. It is about not having tunnel vision, not thinking that your way is the only way even though it has been tried and proven. There could be other ways that also work or even work more efficiently. It is about showing respect about the other person’s model of the world. This is critical in any communication whether it is between two people, staff and client, Manager and staff, business and business and so on. It also does not mean we have to agree as disagreement is healthy for stimulation and creativity. We can disagree but we must still respect their viewpoint. If this prevails then we will undoubtedly receive the other person or parties concern, respect in return. Think about a simple handshake that the world knows is a non-verbal form of communication displaying a greeting, respect and friendship. The other person responds in exactly the same way. So if we fold our arms and show discontent, in most cases we would expect the same response from the other person. Fruit for thought when you next communicate with your staff or client. Think & Behave with Excellence in mind Do we know that how we behave is a reflection of what we are thinking unconsciously? This is the true form of communication because our physiology never lies. Have you met someone that is seems to be saying the right things but for some reason you find it hard to believe them? This is exactly what I mean. So how can you be sure and aware that your staff and your clients believe you every time you verbally communicate? One sure way is to be genuine and say what you mean. You see sometimes the truth hurts someone but you will certainly

gain their respect in the long term, provided you say in the right way. This takes skill and training. Research has shown that 55% of our communication is in our Physiology (Body language), 38% in our Tonality (Voice) and only 7% in our Words. So as they say “It is not what you say but how you say it”. Product, information and general knowledge is very important but by just being clever and letting others about what you know is not enough. The human care factor always wins hands down. The other factor is the word ’Excellence’. We should understand that excellence does not only relate to great results that can be benchmarked in study, work and life. It is more than that. It is about putting 100% into everything we do. It is about the passion and positive attitude towards any task or project rather than the result. Yes we would normally get the targeted results if we have these attributes but we are all made up genetically and physically different. So the real excellence is when one is giving their very best against whatever mental, physical or competency challenges one has versus someone who is naturally gifted and does not have to work that hard to achieve great things in life. Don`t get me wrong as being naturally gifted is god-given but as long as we are also challenging ourselves towards excellence. By Phillip Fernandez (ABNLP) (NSAA) Human Strategist & Director of Wizard Business Consulting, is a salon business coach, NLP Trainer, article writer and keynote speaker. You can contact him on the above topic or any people performance related issues. E: phillip@ businesswizards.com.au W: www.businesswizards.com.au Mobile: 0402 213 813. Office: 1300 747 389.

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Business Matters

Make more money in your business

hat’s really the bottom line isn’t it? Make more money in your salon business or: • Don’t experience business growth • Don’t stay in business For many business owners this is such a challenge. After years of pouring cash into advertising campaigns that don’t work and marketing that cost more than the ROI it’s no wonder that as a business owner, you can feel so overwhelmed! Of course there are also many businesses out there that ARE making more money in their business, daily, so how are they doing it and what are they doing differently from the businesses that aren’t? Here are 3 Tips that are easy to put into place and will help grow your salon business today: 1. Experience. Are your customers having a great experience with you and your business?

Everytime? From the first point of contact? This really is a make or break factor and to be honest I see a lot of businesses that offer a terrible experience yet wonder why they are not making money! If your customers are not being rewarded for loyalty, do not currently love coming to your business and telling their friends about you then I would suggest this area needs looking at. Your clients will come for the service/product and will KEEP RETURNING for the EXPERIENCE. 2. Uniqueness. What is your business offering that is unique to you? What can you provide that other businesses cannot? Why would a customer come to you and not the competition? It’s easy to find a stand out feature when you take a closer look at your business. Find something you have or do already and

highlight it or adopt something new to showcase. A service only you can provide. A product only you supply. An experience only found at your salon. Attracting customers is far more enjoyable and fast than chasing them! 3. Mobile App. Your customers are mobile. Like it or not this is where people are now browsing, booking and buying. You want your business to bring in more money and you DONT want the hassle and low ROI of traditional advertising that blows your marketing budget every time! A mobile app for your business will: • Allow easy and convenient browsing • Provide loyalty rewards for your customers easily • Allow for easy sales through the app 24/7 • Allow easy booking/ordering/ reservations (paid through the app)

• Ability to target your promotions directly to your customers for free • Ability to have your app monetised for extra income source • Capture leads for essential email marketing • And more • Making more money in your business just got a whole lot easier! • Better experience • Stand out qualities • Mobile app power AND, going mobile also gives your customers a unique experience with you and a unique service. Relationship building and customer engagement has never been easier! Make more money in your salon today. Often it’s the little changes that make the biggest difference! By Trish Rock www.nailsalonsuccesscoach.com

Small Business Matters

he Office of the NSW Small Business Commissioner (OSBC) was set up to provide small businesses like yours with practical assistance with their day to day operations, as well as with any challenges that come up. We assist small businesses by: • resolving disputes • providing quality business advice and support • making their voice heard within government

Dispute resolution Most small business operators don’t have the time or resources to deal with disputes. Our Dispute Resolution Unit offers services to any type of small business, regardless of whether the dispute is with another business, a government agency or a local council. In the first instance, small businesses can get advice on any disputes they may be involved

in via a phone assistance line. Our officers are formally trained to mediate commercial disputes and if they are able to resolve a dispute informally, there is no cost to your business. Mediation is very successful with around 90 per cent of all matters referred to us being resolved. If a dispute needs formal mediation, an independent professional mediator with a wide range of commercial experience will be appointed to hold a formal mediation. The cost is nominal. We don’t give legal advice and we don’t help one side beat the other. Instead, we work to help both parties find a practical solution to the problem. Business advice Have you had time to sit back and assess how your small business is going lately? Speaking to a business advisor can help you view your business from a new

perspective. It can also help you learn new skills. Our Small Biz Connect program offers quality, face-to-face, business advisory services. The program is highly subsidised and has a network of business advisors across the state. Small Biz Connect advisors use a range of new tools that offer practical guidance and support for small business operators. One of these is Benchmarking.com. au which creates a customised, financial, detailed report so business owners can see how their business compares to market benchmarks, gives them an idea of how much their business could be worth and compares data from year to year. Small Biz Connect services are made even easier to access by the Small Biz Bus program, a mobile advisory and information service. The Bus travels across NSW connecting small business operators with business advisors in

their local community, at little or no cost to them. Speaking up for small business in government Through our Advocacy Unit, we work closely with small businesses and industry associations that have identified issues dealing with government agencies that are negatively impacting on small businesses. We then work with these agencies to either remove regulatory burdens and onerous administrative practices, or to simplify processes to make it easier for you to run your business. For information about how to take advantage of our services visit www.smallbusiness.gov.au Connect with us on social media to keep up with our latest initiatives and get other information relevant to your business. NSW Small Business Commissioner@NSWSmallBizCom

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2014 International Professional Standards Network Conference

On the 24th – 26th March 2014, the International Professional Standards Network (ipsn) held its conference in Hong Kong for the hairdressing and beauty industries.

ervice Skills Australia, the Industry Skills Council responsible for the hairdressing and beauty training packages, represented Australia as one of the four founding countries who benchmark educational qualifications and industry standards through International Professional Standards Network (ipsn) to improve the industry recognition and mobility of skills based occupations worldwide. The conference theme was ‘Skills Benchmarking – Benefits and Values’, focusing on global labour mobility, international trends in the hairdressing and beauty industries and the latest in

education and training. A number of industry professionals delivered presentations on topics including: • The significance of national and regional qualification frameworks • The importance of knowing your customers to create unique experiences in luxury brands • Latest in online education platforms • Australia’s Australasian College’s new Higher Education program in Clinical Aesthetics • The value of brand, marketing and promotions for the spa industries • Latest research for the hairdressing industry in New Zealand

• The future of labour mobility in the hairdressing and beauty industries. Highlights of the conference included the awarding of the inaugural ipsn Award of Honour which recognises individuals for their contributions to the hairdressing and beauty industries. The winners from each country were: Hong Kong • Dr. HH Leung • Dr. Yuk Shan Cheung – Shirley • Kim Robinson • Mr. Chao Chen Kuo • Professor Cheng Ming Australia • Ruth Browne • Tina Viney

New Zealand • Anne Miller • Andrea Bullock South Africa • Dr. Ivor Blumenthal This year’s conference was a great success with member countries moving forward to continue their work in developing industry benchmarks to assist in the mobility of the workforce between the participating countries. By Lauren Hosking. For more information regarding the conference and IPSN please contact Karen Banks kbanks@serviceskills.com.au

Are you planning to hire new staff? If you are planning to hire new staff, there are few things you need to consider and organise to meet your tax and super obligations. Employee or contractor When hiring a new worker it is important to know whether they’re an employee or contractor. The ATO’s employee/contractor decision tool can help you figure this out. A worker isn’t automatically a contractor just because they have an ABN or specialist skills or you only need them during busy periods. Basically, employees work in your business and are part of your business. Contractors are running their own business. PS. All apprentices and trainees are employees. This means if your business engages an apprentice or trainee, you need to treat them

as an employee and meet the required tax and super obligations.

what you need to do, visit PAYG withholding.

Pay as you go (PAYG) withholding When you pay employees or contractors, you may need to withhold tax from their pay and send these amounts to the ATO regularly. You will need to withhold tax from: • employees • contractors who have a voluntary agreement with you • contractors who do not provide you with an ABN.

Super As an employer, you must pay super for your eligible employees and certain contractors. This is called the super guarantee. Your employees may also be eligible to choose the super fund you pay their super into. For a quick guide on what you need to do, visit the ATO website.

For more information on

Can I claim staffing expenses? Most of the expenses you incur as a result of engaging workers are

eligible tax deductions. Generally you can claim deductions for expenses you incur in paying for: • advertising or hiring • vehicle, phone, office and other expenses • wages, allowances, commissions and bonuses • contractors and intermediaries – for example, a labour hire firm • superannuation to your eligible employees and contractors • fringe benefits, including any fringe benefits tax (FBT) you pay. For more information about hiring new staff, visit preparing to engage workers.

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BEAUTY THERAPY CAREER OPPORTUNITIES A career in Beauty Therapy can offer you opportunities to travel the World, to meet some of the world’s leading organisations and skilled professionals in Our Beauty Industry, with a Broad choice of exciting new career adventures.

s a Beauty Therapist / Educator, My friend and work colleague Michele Hetherington and myself were offered by the Owners of Jax Wax Tina and Geoff Copland (who we work with here in Australia) to Work with them “AS Part Of The Team”, Alongside with their UK Distributors Karen And David Colborne (Adam & Eve Wax and training UK) at the London Beauty Trade Show. Michele and I Conducted and Demonstrated the application of Hot Wax and Strip wax to other skilled professionals. Explaining formulations and educating them on our advanced wax application techniques. Professional Beauty London is the one place in the U.K where the whole industry comes together , Where they had brought out the largest and latest Beauty Products, Machinery, Spa Treatments, nail products And of course

Professional Salon Depilatory wax products. The show was a huge success for everyone. There were International manufactures, Distributors, And Industry members networking their knowledge Under One Big Roof. The feedback we received was Overwhelmingly Positive across the board from Exhibitors and Visitors alike. In terms of an Event Experience as a whole it was Enriched, Valuable and a Great Insight to work with other experts in our field. By Dimi Gravanis. Adam and Eve Salon Supplies and Training run various workshops from Basic to Advanced waxing and demonstrations through the year. Custom workshops and demonstrations are also available at your salon or premises. enquiries@jaxwax.com.au

The Advanced Association of Beauty Therapists (AABTh), Australia’s premier beauty therapy association, dedicated to the promotion of high standards and professionalism in beauty therapy. With an AABTh certified therapist and salon, you can be confident in your beauty professional. Our members are trained to the highest industry standards. How do you find an AABTh certified therapist and salon? Look for the logo – it’s the only beauty mark you can trust. Membership certificates are provided to all members ensuring the credibility and integrity of members by the Association. To find out more about what your expectations from your therapist and salon should be, contact the AABTh today. Email: info@aabth.com.au Phone: +61 2 9439 5054 Web: www.aabth.com.au CIDESCO Section Australia Membership is security. Membership is recognition. Membership is support.

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Essentials

BIOSCULPTURE GELS Prepare to dazzle with new Smoke & Mirrors nail colour collection. As autumn draws closer, beauty lovers across the nation are in for a magical treat, with the launch of Bio Sculpture Gel’s most dazzling colour collection to date, Smoke & Mirrors. Taking inspiration from Autumn/Winter Fashion Weeks,

this slick new collection launching in March 2014, moves away the from dark berry, black and navy tones we’ve seen in past seasons and features an elegant line up of bright pigments, glistening accents and metallic inflections. For more information and to find your nearest salon please call 1300 BIO GEL (1300 246 435) or visit www.biosculpture.com.au

PAYOT CICA-EXPERT LOTION FOR CICATRIX SCARRING! (Payot definition: A cicatrix scar is the scar of a healed wound or a scar that remains after the growth of new tissue over a recovering wound or sore.) Ideal for post cosmetic procedures and also for scratches, extreme dry patches – can be used after surgery to minimise scarring – but patients must wait 21 days before applying. Available at Beauty Salons and Spas – 1300 367 969 – (02) 9874 1166. RRP: $56.00 (40ml)

“Laser Resurfacing in a bottle”, Mayerling’s Nanopeels are the ultimate non-surgical face lift. Mayerling has two highly effective organic acid peelsSalicylic Nanopeel S20 and Glycolic Nanopeel G20.Both Nanopeels are effective, affordable and easy to use. They stimulate and promote skin restoration, renew skin cells and improve circulation. The

Nanopeels fade pigmentation, soften wrinkles and dramatically improve sun damaged skin. The process is further enhanced with the use of Mayerling’s Anti-Stress and Detox Masks. Full training provided. Ph. +612 9909 0935.

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Carnaval of Colour! This February OPI celebrates Brazilian style with a vibrant collection of 12 new bright, sassy, sexy and stylish lacquers, inspired by the country that will be hosting the World Cup in 2014 and the Olympics in 2016, Brazil by OPI. We all remember OPI’s Thrill of Brazil tangerine lacquer shade, now it’s time to samba to the beat of the Carnaval music, with twelve new beautiful lacquers, as OPI celebrates Brazil. The Brazil by OPI palette feature bright

hues of red, pink, coral, orange, lavender and yellow, contrasted by earthy tones of taupe, mocha, jungle green and sienna tones. In addition there will be four limited edition ‘Beach Sandies’ Liquid Sand neon lacquers in a bold purple, pink, turquoise and yellow; offering an unforgettable glittery textured matte finish. For more information contact OPI stockists on 1 800 358 999 or www.opi.net.au

“REJUVENATION” BASECOAT for Dry – Splitting – and Ridged Nails Key ingredients: JOJOBA- ALOE VERA-Vitamin E- Protein KSW Increases moisture levels in the nail and alleviates dryness, GREAT protection under GELS , heals , conditions and strengthens the nail plate while giving natural flexibility. This formula also replenishes protein levels needed to reinforce the bond between the layers of the nail. “Rejuvenation” is applied as a basecoat with just two coats followed by your favourite “Polish” or “GELeration” for a period of 3-6 weeks- nails can show improvement in just a couple of weeks! enquiries: 1300 470 648 admin@jessicacosmetics.com.au

Stop the Chipping by JESSICA To keep polish lasting longer you must apply a Basecoat “Reward” (this acts as an anchor) Cover the entire nail with your favorite polish and finish with a good Top coat- that acts as an ultra-seal with u/v inhibitor such as “Top Priority” and “Brilliance” Important note; apply a second layer of topcoat the next day! Enquires: admin@ jessicacosmetics.com.au

NEW SUNFX ULTIMATE TAN TRAVEL PACKS Our best selling SunFX Travel Pack has just landed and its better than ever! Our all time SunFX favourite… SunFX’s walnut infused, Body Polish has now replaced the superseded body wash. Why do people love the travel pack so much? The Travel Pack tubes are the ultimate size to ensure you can keep your tan looking perfect away from home. The SunFX Travel Pack includes Summer’s Secret, Tan Extender, Body Shimmer & Body Polish all in convenient 65ml tubes. With all

new styling and look and colour, the SunFX Travel Pack also makes the perfect 1300 132 005 www.sunfx.com.au

Repair + Cell Protection This anti-age line from BIODROGA provides the skin all the goodies it needs to fend off wrinkles and lines. The peptide complex stimulates collagen, whilst the alp rose stem cell extract will keep the skin smooth

and firm by protecting cellular production. The classic ingredient bifida ferment lysate, effectively assists the skin repair itself from UV stress. www.biodroga.com.au

www.aabth.com.au

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Essentials PAYOT PARIS LISS FILLER – AN INSTANT TARGETED ANTI-WRINKLE SOLUTION FOR WHENEVER YOU NEED IT! Wrinkles and fine lines visibly fade in one step – apply locally on wrinkles and fine lines after your usual face cream. Touch up whenever needed throughout the day. (The precision tip applicator gives optimal targeted application). Available at Beauty Salons and Spas – 1300 367 969 – (02) 9874 1166. RRP: $70.00 (10ml)

Age Defence SPF 50+ Skinstitut launches the latest in sun protection technology, Age Defence SPF 50+ an advanced chemical and physical hybrid SPF moisturizer. Protecting against UVA and UVB rays which cause premature ageing and skin damage. For external use only. Avoid the eyes. Avoid prolonged exposure to the sun and wear protective clothing such as hats and eyewear when exposed to the sun. For stockists contact 02 9460 7559 www.skinstitut.com

HydroPeptide® LASH – Longer Fuller Lusher HydroPeptide®’s LASH technoinnovation uniquely multi-targets the key dimensions of lash and brow hair loss and thinning. This product nourishes and revives lashes while sleeping, without prostaglandin. HydroPeptide® Lash works while you sleep to speed up the microcirculation of proteinrich amino acids to hair follicles. It then strengthens the hair follicles which allows lashes and brows to grow longer. True Solutions International Ph: 1800 808 993.

Mayerling Eye Cream! Top three seller Dark circles and wrinkles near the eyes are common and a major problem for both sexes. It makes these sufferers feel and look old and tired. Usually causes are hormonal (pregnancy and the pill), hereditary, aging, sun damage, prolonged fatigue and tiredness. Mayerling Eye Cream is an especially engineered treatment cream containing a synergistic

combination of Bearberry extract, Vitamin A, AHA’s and free radical scavenging Anti Oxidant Vitamins. It visibly firms and reduces the puffiness around the eye area. At the same time it brightens and smoothes the texture and fine lines of the delicate skin near the eyes and minnimises the appearance of dark circles around the eyes. 15 gm airless pump dispenser. RRP $98. Only available in professional Beauty Salons.

Synchro Bio-technology: for fast and perfect scar healing. Gernétic skincare products stem from scientific and biological research to optimise scar healing whilst establishing the foundations for healthier and radiant-looking skin. Given its ability to stimulate the skin’s natural healing process and repair mechanism through regeneration, the use of Gernétic’s Synchro in conjunction with medical procedures is embraced by cosmetic surgeons and clinicians across the world. Clinical trials have shown that

preparing the skin with cellular nutritive molecules before a surgical procedure will provide the patient with relief, speed up recovery, reduce scarring and enhance the overall results. Synchro is a revolutionary formula, rich in amino acids, trace elements and vitamins with antiinflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, to support and stimulate the healing process of scars. The regeneration of the epidermis cells and a healthy cell-turnover promote a fast recovery and reduce the appearance of scars dramatically. For stockists contact 02 9452 6230 or www.gernetic.com.au

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