Cool things to do in London . September 2015
The Thames national gallery shoreditch borough market gordon’s wine bar
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A day in London
Few Words ello. Come on. Let’s talk for a while. Let me introduce ourselves. You are a curious wanderlust searching some cool stuff about London. Probably. And we are actually living in this unbelievable city. Fact. Nice to meet you. What do you know about London? It is expensive? Yes, it is. It is cute? Oh yes. And also tough? True. Too much rainy? Sure. London is one of the greatest cities of the world. A major financial capital. An arts hub. A cultural melting pot. A Babel Tower. Fancy fashion trendy cool mega city of contrasts. Stone and bricks and marble and gorgeous parks and elegants palaces. A natural shelter for billionaires and royals. To live in this multiface city is to live diversity in pure state. So much to do. So much to see. So much to eat and drink. So, let’s explore a little bit of London. Every month we are going to show some amazing spots and talk a little bit. In the first edition we talk about the importance of the River Thames. Then, we run the corridors of the National Gallery and the streets of Shoreditch. We’ll make a pit stop to eat something in Borough Market and take a cup in Gordon’s Wine Bar. Enjoy it!
Contents A Walk
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Take a walk along the Thames River
Culture
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Get shocked at the National Gallery
Shop Shoreditch, the hotspot for quirk stuff
To Eat Choose your tidbit at Borough Market
To Drink Back in time at Gordon’s Wine Bar
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Photographs & graphic design Pablo de Mello
A day in London
THE THAMES I LIVE BY THE RIVER The longest river in England. A main gate for explorers and invasors. A visceral trade and communication artery. Cornerstone of London’s foundation. Well, the relationship between the Londoner and the river is deep and intense. Join us in the exploration of its most important spots
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...England belong’s to me, a nation’s
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hink of London. The tradidion. The wealth. Its most important buildings. Tower of London. Big Ben. Tower Bridge. Beneath all these remarkable
stands perhaps the most imporant feature of the city: its River Thames. The experience of the river- the sound of the waves, the birds, the fish, boats and yes, even the annoying aeroplanes, made this an unique experience. I love looking at the river from above, from the plane arriving into Heathrow, and feel good to see the majesty of its distinctive curvy shape. When one is on the riverboats, due to these curves, it is difficult to orient oneself. From certain points, what is on the left bank looks like it is on the right bank and vice versa.
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The Londoner’s spirit is totally defined by Thames’s waters
The particular experience of seeing the river from the London Eye gives yet an entirely different perspective- at different levels. Yet sadly, the city until now has looked away from its river rather than look at it. If one looks at other cities of the world where there is water such as the canals of Venice or Amsterdam or cities with rivers, such as Rome or Florence, the river front is alive and the city looks into it. Even bridges across the Thames are used in a functional sense, to get from one bank to the other, not to stroll across, not to rest, not to have fun- only to walk across. Also, it is almost as if the buildings have made it difficult to get to it. Yet the river created the city. Look at the plan of London through the ages. What is it that has remained constant throughout? The river Thames.
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s pride the dirty water on the rivers... Statistically, the Thames does not feature in even the
near the sea and they could bridge the river Thames
top 50 of the worlds rivers. For example, the Nile is a
here as well as the rivers Fleet and Walbrook. They
spectacular 4160 miles long. But in terms of history,
built a fort near Cripplegate. By 140, London, circled
the river is one of the greatest in the world. The
by a wall, was the capital of Roman Britain. After the
Thames is also the tongue of London which brings
decline of Roman Britain, the town was menaced by
fresh air into the city. Fresh air from Southend travels
Franks, Picts, Scots and Saxons. When the Normans
in with the tides twice each day while the stale air is
invaded in 1066, they built the Tower where the
pulled out by the ebb of the water. As an ecological
Roman wall met the river so that they could defend
entity, the river was, in the past, a wilderness of
the city from the east. The City of London became
marshes and reed beds, harbouring vast populations of
a powerful centre for crafts with mediaeval Guilds
birds.
and Livery companies. The river provided a means of The river provided a route for settlers and
transport for boats, almost 3500 annually, that carried
invaders. As a settlement, London barely existed
goods and people. London was the largest port in
before the arrival of the Romans. They found the
the country. In many respects, it resembled a seaside
location of London very convenient- they could be
town, spreading from Westminster to the Tower with
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WESTMINSTER ABBEY
WESTMINSTER PALACE
Westminster Abbey is the mainly Gothic
The Palace of Westminster is the meeting
abbey church in London and is located just
place of the House of Commons and
to the west of the Palace of Westminster.
the House of Lords, the two houses of
It is one of the most notable religious
the Parliament of the United Kingdom.
buildings in the United Kingdom and has
Commonly known as the Houses of
been the traditional place of coronation
Parliament after its occupants, the Palace
and burial site for English and, later,
lies on the northern bank of the River
British monarchs. Since 1560, however,
Thames. Its name, which derives from the
the building is no longer an abbey nor a
neighbouring Westminster Abbey, may
cathedral, having instead the status of a
refer to either of two structures: the Old
“Royal Peculiar” – a church responsible
Palace, a medieval building complex that was
directly to the Sovereign.
destroyed by fire in 1834, and its replacement, the New Palace that stands today.
THE LONDON EYE
BIG BEN
London Eye is centrally located in the
Big Ben is the nickname for the Great Bell
heart of the capital, gracefully rotating over
of the clock at the north end of the Palace
the River Thames opposite the Houses of
of Westminster and often extended to refer
Parliament and Big Ben. At 135 metres, it is
to the clock and the clock tower. The tower
the world’s tallest cantilevered observation
holds the second largest four-faced chiming
wheel; a feat of design and engineering,
clock in the world and was completed in
it has become the modern symbol
1858. The tower has become one of the
representing the capital and a global icon.
most prominent symbols of the United
The experience showcases breathtaking
Kingdom and is often in the establishing
360-degree views of the capital and its
shot of films set in London.
THE THAMES
famous landmarks and has been the number one visitor experience in the city for the past decade.
TATE MODERN
THE GLOBE
Tate Modern is Britain’s national gallery
The Globe Theatre was a theatre in
of international modern art and forms
London associated with William Shakespeare.
part of the Tate group. It is based in the
It was built in 1599 by Shakespeare’s playing
former Bankside Power Station. Tate holds
company, the Lord Chamberlain’s Men and
the national collection of British art from
was destroyed by fire on 1613. A second Globe
1900 to the present day and international
Theatre was built on the same site by June 1614
modern and contemporary art. Giants as
and closed in 1642. A modern reconstruction
Picasso, Rothko, Twomble, Mirò and
of the Globe, named “Shakespeare’s Globe”,
many others can be appreciated by the
opened in 1997 near from the site of the
crowd os tourists and art lovers.
original theatre.
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THE TOWER OF LONDON
CANARY WHARF
The ancient stones reverberate with dark
It is the new financial centre located in the
secrets, priceless jewels glint in fortified
East End of London. It is worth visiting this
vaults and pampered ravens strut the
outstanding example of regeneration which
grounds. The Tower of London, founded
provides a first class working, shopping and
by William the Conqueror in 1066-7, is
leisure environment. It is a showcase of
one of the world’s most famous fortresses,
many modern architectural styles set in the
and one of Britain’s most visited historic
old docklands environment. There are two
sites. Despite a grim reputation as a place of
large upmarket shopping malls providing
torture and death, there are so many more
a wide variety of goods, and there are
stories to be told about the Tower.
numerous bars and restaurants. The shops
This powerful and enduring symbol of the
and most bars and restaurants are open
Norman Conquest has been enjoyed as a
seven days a week until late evening.
royal palace.
TOWER BRIDGE
HAMES: A GUIDE FOR THE HOT SPOTS
One of the most recognizable bridges in the world, Tower Bridge was built 120 years ago in the Gothic Style to ease road traffic while maintaining river access to the busy Pool of London docks. Built with giant moveable roadways that lift up for passing ships, it is to this day considered an engineering marvel and beyond being one of London’s favourite icons, it is arguably one of the most famous and instantly recognisable structures in the entire world.
THE SHARD
BOROUGH MARKET The View from The Shard is the
Borough Market is a wholesale and
premium visitor attraction at the top of
retail food market in Southwark. It is one
Western Europe’s tallest building, and
of the largest and oldest food markets in
London’s newest landmark, The Shard.
London. Stallholders come to trade at the
Designed by Master Architect Renzo
market from different parts of the UK and
Piano, the Shard redefines London’s
Europe. Amongst the produce on sale are
skyline and has become a dynamic symbol
fresh vegetables, cheese, meat, game and
of London. At a height of up to 800ft or
freshly baked bread and pastries. There is
244m, a spectacular views over London for
also a wide variety of street food on sale for
up to 40 miles. Twice as high as any other
lunchtime visitors. Market has become a
vantage point in the city.
fashionable place to buy food.
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the river being the means of communication, drainage and water supply. Henry VIII was responsible for many changes to London including the addition of palaces and hunting grounds like Green Park, Hyde Park and St James’s Park. He was also responsible for the south of London becoming a cultural area. Except for Southwark, most of the land had remained unbuilt as it was marshy. So, all activities that were banned in the north were banished to the south of the river. Cock fighting, bear baiting and all the theatresthe Rose 1587, the Swan and the Globe 1599- and public execution were the prime attractions at Southwark, providing diversions for Londoners. The
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What an unique experience see the sundown on a bridge
river again acted as a means of dividing the city, along political and social lines. But, by 1610, the water was no longer fit for drinking and the New River Company was established to supply clean water to the general population In the Stuart period, London’s only bridge was London Bridge and so it remained until 1738 when Westminster Bridge was built. Most jetties were on the north side, keeping power on the northern side. But despite its wealth, the north side was crowded, disease ridden and with open drains flowing into the river. As usual, great tragedies -the Great Plague in 1665 and the Great fire in 1666 provided these architects with good work loads. Also, the westward
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he River Thames may take its name from the Sanskrit Tamas meaning “dark” as its waters are often dark and cloudy; another school of thought is that it is named after the Roman Tam meaning “wide” and Isis meaning water.
expansion of the city started as some of the earlier
landmark buildings along the
occupants of east London did not return after the
Thames including the Bankside
fire, preferring to settle in the leafier, open squares
and Battersea power stations,
in Kensington ands elsewhere. By the end of the
Waterloo Bridge and County
17th century, London had been transformed from
Hall. The Dome and now the
a timber-built mediaeval port into a classical city,
London Eye as well as the Tate
made of bricks and mortar. But for the poor of
Modern provide new focal
London, misery continued, especially with the
points on the Thames. The
water supply.
Docklands area, built in the
There are 33 bridges spanning the river,
19th century, has seen dramatic
the most recent, the Millennium bridge spanning
new buildings with the business
between the Tate Modern Gallery and St Pauls
complex of Canary Wharf.
having been inaugurated and then closed due to swaying. There are 8 tunnels under the river. The 20th century saw the building of many of the
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The Thames is 215 miles in length from source to sea? The Thames flows through 16 cities and key towns? The Thames is England’s longest river? During World War II the protection of the Thames was critical to the defence of the Britain
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This impressive neoclassical buildin collections of Western European pai
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ith some 2300 European
and Covent Garden. And just in front of, stands the
paintings on display, this is
huge monument to one of the English, Lord Nelson.
one of the world’s richest
So, it is a massive overcrowded spot to explore but
art collections, with seminal
worth every minute spent there. Outside the museum,
paintings from every important epoch in the history
many street artists exhibit their works in a nicely rich
of art – from the mid-13th to the early 20th century,
atmosphere.
including works by Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Titian, Van Gogh and Renoir. Definitely, one of the most remarkable
The Gallery started life in 1824 when the British Government purchased 38 pictures belonging to the banker John Julius Angerstein. As there was no
attractions of London, it will get your breath away
suitable space available to display the collection, the
while you walk through many rooms and galleries
pictures were put on display in Angerstein’s former
exhibiting the finest works.
home in Pall Mall. It was only in 1838 that the
The museum is placed in a central spot, close
collection moved to its current site. The neoclassical
to many important points of the city. In five minutes
building that now houses the museum was completed
walking, you get the Westminster, the Thames River
after a much-criticized design by English architect
and Leiscester Square. 10 minutes are Hyde Park
William Wilkins. It was built at the then still to be
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SHOCKING AT THE NATIONAL GALLERY
ng displays one of the world’s finest intings. developed Trafalgar Square, which had just been cleared. Many visitors flock to the East Wing (1700–1900), where works by 18thcentury British artists such as Gainsborough, Constable and Turner, and seminal Impressionist and post-Impressionist masterpieces by Van Gogh, Renoir and Monet await. Don’t overlook the astonishing floor mosaics in the main vestibule inside the entrance to the National Gallery. The modern Sainsbury Wing on the gallery’s western side houses paintings from 1250 to 1500. Here you will find largely religious paintings commissioned for private
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One of the world’s richest art collections, with seminal paintings from every important epoch in the history of art
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devotion (eg the Wilton Diptych ) as well more unusual masterpieces such as Botticelli’s Venus & Mars and Van Eyck’s Arnolfini Portrait . Leonardo Da Vinci’s Virgin of the Rocks , in room 57, is a stunning masterpiece. Works from the High Renaissance (1500–1600) embellish the West Wing where Michelangelo, Titian, Raphael, Correggio, El Greco and Bronzino hold court; Rubens, Rembrandt and Caravaggio grace the North Wing (1600–1700). Notable are two self-portraits of Rembrandt (age 34 and 63) and the beautiful Rokeby Venus by Velázquez. Adjacent to the National Gallery is the National Portrait Gallery, which presents paintings portraying prominent English persons such as Sir Christopher Wren and Churchill. It is the most important museum of its kind. Defintely, an unforgetable experience and fundamental to everyone.
The National Gallery Address: Trafalgar Square Site: www.nationalgallery.org.uk Open 361 days a year free of charge Tube station: Charing Cross
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ake your time contemplating paintings by French Impressionists such as Monet or Seurat
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SHOREDITCHIN An unmissable jaunt through London’s best gallery – the streets
A
triangle of influences have made
fashionistas from Hackney and Shoreditch make
Shoreditch into one of London’s
their own clothes with fabrics from sari shops,
most distinctive and unusual areas.
and traditional cockney butchers share space with
To the East, Bangla-town and
exclusive delicatessens.
Brick Lane – London’s celebrated curry mile –
Some say Shoreditch has had its day, that
are a riot of smells and colours from the Indian
London’s trendy brigade have moved on. If you go
sub-continent. In the West, the looming towers of
to Brick Lane Market, though, it doesn’t look that
Liverpool Street and the City represent the world’s
way. The weird and wonderfully dressed hordes
most concentrated area of money-making talent,
keep coming to the rough triangle made up by
where a number of sophisticated business hotels
Old Street, Great Eastern Street and Shoreditch
have sprung up. And right in the middle of it all is
High Street, packing into ramshackle bars and
Spitalfields market, a citadel of the working classes
independent shops. Despite the spread of affluence,
and home of the cockney music hall tradition. The
much of the area maintains its original gritty,
result is an area where trendy bars sit next to cut-
urban edge; many of the walls and shop fronts are
price Bangladeshi restaurants, where artists and
plastered with graffiti.
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Shoreditch has recently become
personality Boy George opening a
one of London’s trendiest districts,
fashion boutique, B-Rude, in The
together with its neighbour Hoxton.
Clerk’s House, a notable building in
A new wave of young professionals
the High Street. Entertainment has
has moved into Shoreditch, sending
long been a speciality of Shoreditch,
property prices sky-rocketing in
the location, in the 1500s, of
what was once a working-class
England’s first theatre, and then a
stronghold between Old Street
Shakespearian playhouse. These are
and Bethnal Green. The boom
marked by plaques in Curtain Road
was kick-started by Damien Hirst,
and Hewitt Street respectively. Later
Tracey Emin and the other Young
it became a centre for Victorian
British Artists who moved here
music hall. Shoreditch was once
in the early Nineties, followed by
famed for its textile and furniture
scores of creative bohemians. Today,
industries, the latter revisited
Shoreditch is jam-packed with lofts,
through exhibits in the local Geffrye
galleries, chic bars and restaurants,
Museum.
coffee shops and clubs, with pop
The “MustDo” walk in London
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Though Brick Lane Market is an entity (and attraction) in itself, the banner has grown to encompass a motley array of markets in and around the East End hotspot. Brick Lane Market proper is where to head for tools, household goods and bargain fruit and veg sold by the bowl. Vendors without a proper stall often line Brick Lane, their wares (dodgy old videos, broken dolls, CD players) set up on blankets. Bric-abrac traders morph into indie clothes and accessories designers as you hit Backyard Market, housed in a warehouse building opposite Dray Walk.
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Choose your dirbi oldest and charm
BOROUGH
A day in London
it in the London’s ming food market
MARKET
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The market specialises in high-en there are also plenty of takeaway unreasonable number of cake sta
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nd fresh products; stalls and an alls!
London’s best, and best-known, food market is chock-a-block with takeaway choices, should all that prime produce make you hungry on the hoof.
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he food hound’s favourite market is also London’s oldest, dating back to the 13th century. It’s the busiest too, occupying a sprawling site near London Bridge. Gourmet goodies run the gamut,
from fresh loaves and rare-breed meats, via fish, game, fruit and veg, to cakes and all manner of preserves, oils and teas; head out hungry to take advantage of the numerous free samples. A rail viaduct, vigorously campaigned against, is now in place, which means restored historic features have been returned and works disruption should now be at an end. As if to celebrate, a new Market hall, facing onto Borough High Street, has been opened: it acts as a kind of greenhouse for growing plants (including hops), as well as hosting workshops, tastings and foodie demonstrations. You can also nip in with your snack if the weather’s poor. Borough Market’s gourmet food market consists of up to 70 stalls and stands. Producers from all over the country bring a range of fresh produce to the market, including fish, meats, vegetables, ciders, cheeses, breads, coffees, cakes and patisseries. Other stalls specialise in produce imported from abroad. Open: 10am-5pm Wed & Thu, to 6pm Fri, 8am-5pm Sat Address: Southwark Street, Bankside, London Tube Station: London Bridge
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Hot Stuff Hobbs
Their hot meat baguettes in with stuffing and apple sau stuffing and cranberry sauc pickle and mustard.
Hot Stuff Bianca e Mora Specialising in charcuterie, Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan) and Pecorino cheese, Bianca e Mora source their products from a collection of small farms in northern Italy. All the products on the stall are organic enjoy Italian DOP status
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nclude roast loin of pork uce, turkey breast with ce and salt beef with dill
Hot Stuff Elsey and Bent Years of experience in sourcing, buying and selling the very best fruit, vegetables and salads, combined with a traditional sense of quality and value mean customers are sure to find the best of the season at this stall.
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GORDON’S WINE An institution in London’s drinking circles has an atmosphere from time gone
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G
ordon’s is the home to a regular,
glasses of vino. Having chosen your tipple from
thriving crowd of drinkers of all
the award-winning wine list, head right to the
ages and all walks of life, united
back and find the low-ceilinged arches, under
in their love of this unique venue
which tables and chairs huddle together, bathed in
and of good wine. Buried deep and dark beneath the streets with only a small doorway and a subtle
gentle candlelight. You’ll probably have to wait a while for a
sign indicating its presence, Gordon’s Wine Bar
table, but there’s no great hardship in propping
is one of central London’s best hidden gems. The
yourself up in a corner and waiting for one to
subterranean setting is accessed by a steep, wood-
become available or, alternatively, asking to
panelled staircase which leads into a rickety old
share the corner of someone else’s. There’s also
room plastered with centuries old newspapers
a stretch of outdoor seating with brollies and
cuttings and dusty wine bottles.
heaters provided. Gordon’s wine list includes a
Once you’ve made the somewhat perilous
wide-ranging collection from the New and Old
descent, be prepared for a crowded crawl to the
World, to suit any palate. The friendly Gallic bar
bar through throngs of office workers supping on
staff know their stuff, so don’t be afraid to ask.
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Still family run, signs of the bar’s can be found everywhere, from the cellar to the aged wodden walls covered in memorabilia and old newspaper cutings
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Sturdy tumblers of port or sherry served straight from casks
Gordon’s. Enjoy, but remember you’ll have to climb back up
behind the bar are an unusual but welcome detail as is the
those steep stairs on your way out.
delicious, home-cooked food available (try a plate of pongy cheese, some pate or a hearty ploughman’s). The oldest wine bar in London, this friendly, family-run establishment has
Address: 47 Villiers Street, Covent Garden
resolutely resisted change and its merit is demonstrated by
Telephone: 020 7930 1408
its immense popularity. There’s certainly not enough room
Site: www.gordonswinebar.com
to swing a cat here, and probably not even enough to open
Open:Mon to Sat 11am-11pm, Sun 12pm-10pm
a newspaper, but this is all part and parcel of drinking at
Tube station: Embankment