A day in london 2

Cool things to do in London . November 2015

Oxford street tate modern camden town west ham freemanson’s arm pub

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A day in London

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A day in London

Few Words i all. Here we are bringing the second number of A Day in London. London is so incredibly rich in attractions, traditions and culture that is difficult to choose properly the stories. What is more interesting to talk about? This museum or that pub? What would match with the stories?

With these irrelevant matters in mind, we have balanced the stories in order to make our reader happy. We will start in Oxford Street, the elegant fancy shopping spot. We will walk through this long rushed road trying to get its spirit, its colours and all glamour that it is famous for. After struggling on the crowded sidewalks of Oxford Street, we cross the river to visit a world class museum, Tate Modern, an exquisite power station that houses a top modern art collection.

After some precious hours of culture, we ride north towards the pitoresque Camden Town to visit one of the most acclaimed London’s

of West Ham Football Club in the last season of the Upton Park. The final

market. We spent some pleasant hours walking through Camden High

stop will be at another London gem, the Freemanson’s Arms Pub, in Covent

Road, the bankside along the channel and visiting many cool shops. Our

Garden, a place rich in history and good beer.

So, if you are invited to join us coming on and exploring some of

tour finishes with some fine pints of ale in Amy Winehouse’s favorite pub and from there we have to rush to East London to watch a game

London’s finests treasures.

Photographs & graphic design by Pablo de Mello | November 2015

Having a pint in Freemanson’s Arms

42 To Drink

Supporting the Hammers

34 Having Fun

Freaking out in Camden Town

28 A Walk

A walk in the house of Modern Art

16 Culture

Taste the luxury of Oxford Street

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To Shop

Contents

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A day in London

THE

OXFO

STREET

Ellegance a have an a

A day in London

THE

ORD

STREET

and luxury address

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A day in London

Th

El Do

for Shop

O

xford street. Think about rush.

although others business and commercial spots

retail purposes by the late 19th century, despite

People. Ellegant people, I mean.

as the magnificent Fifth Avenue in New York

attracting street traders, confidence tricksters

Fashion and trends, cool brands

have such global importance.

and prostitution. The first department stores in

and expensive clothes. Ellegance

The road was originally a Roman Road,

Britain opened on Oxford Street in the early

and tradition. Hype and opulence. All mixed in

part of the Via Trinobantina between Essex

20th century, including Selfridges, John Lewis

several shops along less than 2 kilometres in the

and Hampshire via London. It was known as

and HMV.

very centre of London. London`s catwalk.

Tyburn Road through the Middle Ages and

The busiest street of whole Europe

During the WWII, the area suffered

was once notorious as a street where prisoners

massive damage because of bombardment.

attracts more than half million people daily,

from Newgate Prison would be transported

Unlike nearby shopping streets such as

between shoppers, workers and tourists

towards a public hanging. It became known as

Bond Street, it has retained an element of

and houses more than 300 shops. The most

Oxford Street in the 18th century after been

downmarket street trading alongside more

important luxury and fashion brands have

developed as an entertainment area by the

prestigious retail stores. It became a world

branches there making Oxford Street an

Earl of Oxford, and began to change character

luxury shopping destination and any of the

international reference for style and commerce

from a residential street to commercial and

main retail chains like Selfridges keep their

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A day in London

he

orad0

paholics main branch as flagstore in the Street.

However, there remain a number of Victorian

designed to be the triumphal entrance of the

and Edwardian buildings with architectural

Buckingham Palace and close to the magnify

one. If you look on a map, you will note that

decoration, above all the varied rooftops with

Hyde Park.

it is just a section of a bigger road connecting

domes and spires, but also some architectural

Bank Square and Saint Paul Cathedral to far as

sculpture. Standing out as the most significant

several famous streets as Park and Duke streets

Chiswick, which other sections changing its

sculpture is the group of allegorical figures on

and gets by the important tube station of Bond

name as Cheapside, Holborn, Bayswater Road

the front of Selfridges, and at the end to the

Street. In this section, we can find several

and Holland Park Avenue.

West is the early 19th century sculpture on

amazing buildings and shops. Perhaps, the most

Marble Arch.

significant is the imposing Selfridges, a mark

However, Oxford Street is a quite small

Along the western reaches of Oxford Street are ever more modern buildings,

We can divide the street in sections in

The street continues down passing

in the retail industry. Opened in 1909, it is still

for this is the richer, more desirable part

the same way. A good way would be using

the second biggest department store in Europe

of London’s premier shopping street, and

the tube stations as landmarks. The first

and was designed by the American architect

every redevelopment is a chance to build

section would begin at Marble Arch tube

Burnham who use the innovative technique

higher, deeper, and maximise the retail space.

station, exactly in front of the superb structure

of steel frame to build it in the Beaux-Arts

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A day in London

MARBLE ARCH

MARKS & SPENCER

SELFRIDGE’S

Marble Arch is a 19th-century white marble faced triumphal arch. The structure was designed by John Nash in 1827 to be the state entrance to the cour d’honneur of Buckingham Palace; it stood near the site of what is today the three bayed, central projection of the palace containing the well known balcony. In the early 1960s is now sited, isolated and incongruously, on a large traffic island at the junction of Oxford Street, Park Lane, and Edgware Road. Historically, only members of the Royal Family and the King’s Troop, Royal Horse Artillery are permitted to pass through the arch.

Marks & Spencer is a world famous department store selling clothes for women, men and children, home furnishings and food. It is a major British multinational retailer founded in 1884 by Michael Marks and Thomas Spencer in Leeds. Nowadays, it is a fine retail chain with 1,330 stores worldwide employing more than 10,000 people and serving over 33 millions customers every year.

The quality of their products makes the brands fame. The company houses two different branches in Oxford Street, both offering high quality service and products.

Selfridges is one of the world’s finest department stores and dominates the west end of Oxford Street. The shop has six floors offering 10 acres of shopping space, 11 places to eat, two exhibition halls and countless services.

From high fashion to hi-fi, wardrobe co-ordination to wedding lists, it’s every shop you’ll ever need. Luxury lovers should visit the ground floor Wonder Room, a 19,000 square feet haven of high-end brands that range from jewellery to sunglasses. The store is also home to the world’s biggest-ever denim department, with nothing but jeans covering a whopping 25,000 square feet.

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OXFORD STREET

Marylebone

SOME INTERESTING SPOTS

Hyde Park

Fitzrovia

Mayfair

Soho

PARK HOUSE

OXFORD CIRCUS TUBE

EDWARDIAN STYLE

An exhilarating expression of modern architecture and design, Park House consists of high-end retail units, luxury residential apartments and some of the most modern office space in the West End. Nine storeys high and 145 metres long, Park House makes an impression yet remains sympathetic to its surroundings. A premium mixed-use building, Park House consists of high-end retail units, luxury residential apartments and some of the most modern office space in the West End. At the eastern end there are 39 luxury residential apartments and home to eight flagship stores including Zara and Swarovski.

Right in the middle of Oxford Street, Oxford Circus Underground is the destination of thousands of shoppers every day. The station is connected to the Central, Bakerloo and Victoria lines. It is the busiest station in the United Kingdom, with 98.51 million entries and exits in 2014. On the Central line it is between Bond Street and Tottenham Court Road, on the Bakerloo line it is between Regent’s Park and Piccadilly Circus, and on the Victoria line it is between Green Park and Warren Street. The Central line station opened on 1900, and the Bakerloo line station on 1906.

As we head west from Oxford Circus, almost immediately on the south side is a range of Victorian and Edwardian 4-5 storey buildings, narrow in frontage, leading up to Harewood Place. On the nearer corner is a bright red terra-cotta building, and opposite on the West side, is a splendid buff-coloured building with corner dome and spire, no. 293, which runs the full distance along Harewood Place with three further spiky domes, pointed gables, and minor sculptural ornament in relief. The sculptural décor includes little frieze panels showing grotesque griffins and cartouches with scrolly shields.

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DEBEHAMS

Waring AND Gillow

Queen Anne style

Debehams is probably the best organised of the London department stores for actual, practical shopping, with substance taking precedence over style. As well as a huge range of branded and own-brand fashion for the whole family, Debenhams Oxford Street offers exclusive, affordable collections from internationally renowned designer names. Their designer partnerships extend into accessories and homewares. There’s a good choice of the latest products and beauty rooms from the world’s top cosmetics houses and three in-store restaurants and cafes.

This is one special Queen Anne building, massive, grand, and profusely decorated with sculpture, filling the whole block between Great Titchfield Street and Winsley Street: this is the former Waring and Gillow Building, at Nos. 164-188 Oxford Street. It was once the grandest of furniture makers, manufacturing in Lancaster and Liverpool, and fitting out grand hotels, luxury ocean liners, and furnishing the houses of the very well off.

The architect was R. Frank Atkinson, and the date on the building is 1905. Four storeys high with two further dormer storeys, the sculptural interest comes above.

The strength of the Queen Anne style when carried to some length can be felt with the gorgeous n. 111125 Oxford Street, and the date is similar to Berwick House – 1887 – and the architect is Banister Fletcher, of considerable renown more as much for his writing on architecture as his buildings. The decoration is good – heads at the tops of the ground floor pilasters, with friezes above; spandrel carving above the broad arches at the first floor, and a continuous band of moulding above the second floor, together with additions above the principal entrance, including two pots in niches at the top.

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London Palladium It is a 2,286-seat theatre located on Argyll Street. From the roster of stars who have played there and many televised performances, it is arguably the most famous theatre in London and the United Kingdom, especially for musical variety shows. The theatre started out as a premier venue for variety performances. It is especially linked to the Royal Variety Performances, where many were held. In1973, glam rock band Slade played a gig which resulted in the venue’s balcony nearly collapsing.

The Palladium was also the setting for the 2007 BAFTA awards, which were broadcast on BBC television.

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THE LIBERTY

BERWICK HOUSE

Liberty is a department store on Regent Street. The department store sells a wide range of luxury goods including women’s, men’s and children’s fashion, cosmetics and fragrances, jewellery, accessories, homeware and gifts. Liberty is known for its floral and graphic prints. The Tudor building of the Liberty department store was built while the substantial premises on Regent Street were being renovated. It allowed the firm to continue trading, and the magnificent wing was completed in 1924 when the fashion for neo-Tudor architecture was at its height.

Back on the south side of Oxford Street, on the eastern corner of Berwick Street is Berwick House, dated 1886, with another variation on the rounded corner leading to a spire, this time shaped rather like a downward hanging bluebell, with elegant pillars in front of recessed windows on the two floors below above the low first storey and the corner doorway. Gables and dormers are higher up, with various minor decoration, principally wreaths. A building that successfully looks larger and more powerful than its size.

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style with huge Ionic columns. Its 50 thousand

these collection of different styles provokes

meters, houses several important plays and

square meters attracts millions of visitors

controversy and, at the same time, shows the

musicals. The shopper will find countless cool

and customers every year and the building is

power and rythm of business.

shops as Disney Store, Chanel, Thorntons,

appears in the Statutory List of Buildings of

The next section begins with Bond

Zara, Fossil, Next and many more.

Special Architectural or Historic Interest.

Street tube station and follows down to

Going east from Oxford Circus towards

Other important shops in this section are

the transcendental Oxford Circus Station

Centre Point, we are not expecting anything

Primark, H&M, Topshop and Mark Spencer,

crossing streets as Woodstock, New Bond and

grand, but a range of interesting minor

references in the street attracting crowds of

Holles Street.

decorative sculpture, which would be quite

shoppers. Another important building with

Important buildings are located

noticed were it not dwarfed by such large

contemporary and radical design is the Park

around this part of the Oxford Street. Liberty

buildings, and ignored by people intent only

House development, a massive framework

departament store, built in the XIX century

on shopping. But along the way, we can see the

of glass and steel that houses several shops,

in Tudor Style, evokes a glimpse of a romantic

typical late 19th Century style used on Oxford

offices and residences. The contrast between

past and the Palladium Theatre, close by few

Street, with minor decorative carving and a

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A day in London

variety of pleasing towers and domes; the grand former Waring and Gillow store, good terra cotta work.

After the phenomenal Regent Street, we quickly reach the end of Oxford Street arriving at Tottenham Court Road Tube Station.

There are several shops, from sports to fancy clothes. The streets are crowded mainly at the weekends and the Christmas time when flocks of visitants comes to walk and see the lights and the offers.

Well, we hope you have enjoyed the little tour. Have a nice shopping!

Oxford street has a great selection of shops all of which are huge! If you go leave plenty of time because I could happily spend a couple of hours in some of them!

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Best known for its premium shopping, Regent Street now rivals the Champs-Elysées and Fifth Avenue as a world-class visitor destination

Regent Street

S

ituated in the heart of

relax and dine within the stylish

London’s West End,

cafes, restaurants and bars located

Regent Street is one

along Regent Street such as Aqua

easy walking distance of Oxford

John Nash, whose street layout

of the capital’s most famous

and Hawksmoor, and within the

Circus and Piccadilly Circus

survives , although all of his

thoroughfares. Home to more

Regent Street food quarters of

underground stations, Regent

original buildings except All Souls

than 75 international flagship

Heddon Street and Swallow Street

Street’s internationally renowned

Church have since been replaced.

stores such as Liberty, Apple,

such as Bentley’s, Veeraswamy,

Georgian architecture offers

The Christmas light displays are

Banana Republic, Hamleys and

Gaucho, Momo, Aubaine and

visitors a truly unique shopping

a London tradition dating since

Anthropologie; Regent Street is

belowzero restaurant+lounge. The

experience. For an historical guide

1948, when the Regent Street

London’s ultimate shopping and

stores on Regent Street are open

to the architecture of Regent

Association decorated the street

lifestyle destination.

from 10am and generally close

Street, Europe’s first purpose-

with Christmas trees.

between 8 and 9pm and many of

built shopping street, it is named

the restaurants and bars are open

after the Prince Regent (later

Every year over 70 million visitors come to shop as well as

until late.

Perfectly situated within

George IV) and is commonly associated with the architect

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A day in London

Oxford Circus

T

he busy intersection of

hour pass through the junction

Oxford Street and Regent

including those accessing the London

Street is a main spot and

Underground station

reference served by many bus

In 2009, Westminster City

routes and by Oxford Circus tube

Council started a pedestrianisation

station, which is directly beneath the

scheme for the area, allowing

junction itself.

shoppers to cross the intersection

At the end of the 2000s,

diagonally as well as the traditional

Oxford Circus had the highest

‘straight ahead’, turning it into a

pedestrian volumes recorded

“pedestrian scramble”, much like

anywhere in London. At the busiest

Tokyo’s Shibuya crossing. Work

times, over 40,000 pedestrians per

started in Summer 2009

luxurious and cosmopolitan

OXFORD STREET REPRESENTS THE VERY

LONDON’S SPIRIT

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A day in London

TA

A walk in th house of M

A day in London

TE

he London’s Modern Art

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A day in London

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The national gallery of international modern art ho

A

visit to London isn’t complete without a trip to Tate Modern.

What started in 1897 as a single gallery of 65 paintings devoted

solely to British art, has grown and diversified over the last century, providing an essential supplement to the collections of the National Gallery.

The Tate now comprises nearly 70,000 works, spread across four separate museums:

former Bankside Power Station on the banks

a comprehensive collection of modern

Tate Britain, Tate Modern, Tate Liverpool and

of the Thames, at Southwark, very near of the

international art since 1900, its treasures

Tate St Ives. Tate Modern provides London

Globe Theather and to Shard, London`s tallest

include one of the finest museum collections

with a major collection of international

building.

of Surrealism, with works by Dalí, Magritte

modern and contemporary works. Britain’s

Since it opened in 2000, Tate

and Miró. Early modernist movements are

national museum of modern and contemporary

Modern has established itself as the most-

represented by Picasso, Mondrian and Matisse.

art from around the world is housed in the

visited art gallery in the world. Displaying

There is Pop Art by Warhol and

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olds the national collection of British art from 1900

The museum is in the process of rearranging its galleries prior to the opening of an ambitious new extension in 2016, so check the website ahead of time. Not to be missed is the new collection of Rothko murals, originally created for the Seagram building in New York, and displays devoted to Cy Twombley and the video pioneer Nam June Paik (both on Level 4).

Lichtenstein and Abstract Expressionist works

by Pollock and Rothko. Minimalism and

enriched the holdings of contemporary art.

The vast Turbine Hall is a dramatic

Head to the Restaurant on Level 6 or the Espresso Bar on Level 3 for stunning vistas

Conceptual art are also well represented, with

entrance point used to showcase big, audacious

of the Thames. The view of St. Paul’s from

iconic works by Carl Andre, Donald Judd

installations that tend to generate a lot of

the Espresso Bar’s balcony is one of the best in

and Joseph Beuys. The recent acquisition of

publicity. Past highlights include Olafur

London.

the Artist Rooms collection (shared with the

Eliasson’s massive glowing sun and Carsten

National Galleries of Scotland) has dramatically

Holler’s huge metal slides.

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A great collection of modern art, amazing building and on the vibrant south bank. You must come here if you love art.

A day in London

A day in London

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Braque Picasso Delaunay Gris Kirchner Klee Matisse Rothko Warhol Newman Kapoor Lichtenstein Kandinsky Fontana Johns Hockney Albers Dubuffet Serra Stella Blake Mondrian Miro

ROTHKO The master of spirituality

A

prominent figure among the New

a range of styles that evolved from figurative

belief often put him at odds with the art world

York School painters, Mark Rothko

to abstract. His search for new forms of

establishment, leading him to publicly respond

moved through many artistic styles

expression led to his Color Field paintings,

to critics, and occasionally refuse commissions,

until reaching his signature 1950s motif of soft,

which employed shimmering color to convey

sales and exhibitions. The set of Mark Rothko

rectangular forms floating on a stained field

a sense of spirituality. Rothko maintained

paintings originally commissioned for the

of color. Heavily influenced by mythology

the social revolutionary ideas of his youth

Four Seasons restaurant in New York are the

and philosophy, he was insistent that his art

throughout his life. In particular he supported

treasure of Tate Modern. They occupy a room

was filled with content, and brimming with

of their own, low-lit and filled with brooding

ideas. A fierce champion of social revolutionary

intensity. The hazy outlines of what might

thought, and the right to self-expression,

be doors, windows, or the gates of heaven

Rothko also expounded his views in numerous

and hell hover on the wine red and imperial

essays and critical reviews.

purple surfaces of Rothko’s mural-scale

Highly informed by Nietzsche, Greek

abstractions. In all of them darkness beckons,

mythology, and his Russian-Jewish heritage,

mordantly inviting the beholder to imagine

Rothko’s art was profoundly imbued with

artists’ total freedom of expression, which he

vast apocalyptic landscapes, undefinable events

emotional content that he articulated through

felt was compromised by the market. This

on a cosmic scale.

A day in London

Sir Giles Gilbert Scott (1880 – 1960) was an English architect known for his work on such structures as Liverpool Cathedral, Waterloo Bridge and Battersea Power Station and designing the iconic red telephone box.

He was noted for his

Bankside is a 200 m (660 ft) long, steel framed, brick clad building with a substantial central chimney which stands at 99 m (325 ft).

The chimney’s height was limited to less than that of St Paul’s Cathedral, which stands directly opposite inward from the north bank of the Thames.

blending of Gothic tradition with modernism, making what might otherwise have been functionallydesigned buildings into popular landmarks.

Bankside

STRUCTURE

ARCHITECT

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Power Station is a former oilfired power station, located on the south bank of the River Thames, in the Bankside district of London. It generated electricity from 1952 to 1981. Since 2000 the station’s building has been used to house the Tate Modern art museum.

Tate Modern Bankside, London SE1 9TG 020 7887 8888 www.tate.org.uk Opening Hours Monday - Sunday 10-22pm

A sensitive reworking of a power station as a huge modern art gallery

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FREAKING OUT IN

CAMDEN TOWN Artsy and hipster the quirk market has all kinds of trinkets and foods from all over the world

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A day in London

“

Camden Lock Market awakens all your senses

A

cool place immortalised by one of

Lock Market, which opened in 1972.

the greatest voices of the last 30

years of the international music,

workshops, studios, stalls, shops, cafes, restaurants

Amy Winehouse, holds a major hot

and bars selling an individual and extensive array

Today, there are hundreds of designer

spot for every alternative culture lover.

of high quality goods from designer, alternative &

Camden’s group of markets is now the fourth

vintage clothing and accessories to one-off pieces

most-visited tourist attraction in London. It is

of art, furnishings, antiques, jewellery, records &

the largest street market in the UK, and attracts

CDs, collectables, arts & crafts and international

around 500,000 visitors each week. There are

food.

various markets located in Camden Town which

are collectively known as Camden Market.

London, well situated very close to the Regent`s

The area around Camden Lock was first

Camden Town, situated in the north of

Park and the fundamental Saint Pancras train station,

developed in 1791 by the Earl of Camden, with

became a major trendy attractions some years ago

the famous Regents Canal opening in 1820. The

with an eclectic mix of bars, restaurants and shops

first market to appear in Camden was Camden

around the area of the Camden Market and now

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Lots of ind

with the one off typ

which make a place

a visit . The high str attracts more than 10 million tourists each year and is now one

of unique shops an

of London`s most popular places.

experience for day

The main Camden High Street is itself a spectacular

spot where interesting shops with different stuff as vintage, goth and punk cloths, tattoos and cool cloths works in a harmonious cultural melting pot. Different tribes can be found hanging around, enriching the tour.

The close presence of the pleasant Regent`s Canal

boosts the affluence of people interested to relax on its

artcrafts, jewellery and vintage cloth. Be prepared to face the

picturesque banks and also to take a boat tour to Little Venice,

crowd of shoppers and visitants during the weekends!

just north of Paddington.

the horses of the Pickfords transport company were housed.

Naturally, the tour takes the visitor to the Camden

Then, comes the Stables Market where once

market, composed by more than 450 shops divided insome

There are an amazing variety of shops offering such different

different sections. The first one to come in the flow is the

stuff since Asian food to sex toys. Highlights for some books

Camden Lock Market where, once upon a time, on a site

and vintage shops as well as the Oi Oi Oi shop, specialised in

formerly occupied by warehouses associated with the canal.

ska and oi goods. Do not miss Amy Winehouse`s Statue and

Operating since the seventies, the market offers a diverse array

Ciberdog, a trendy and incredible shop selling from electronic

of goods, since several options of good food as well as books,

music and clubber stuff, sex clothes and bizarre stuff. Next,

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dependent traders

pe of purchase

e like this worth

reet also had lots

nd creates a good

comes Chalk Farm Road with its several places as Bar Fly, where Prince shone in his early career.

Another hot tip is to check the rich and colourful

Street Art around, with grafittis of Hunto, Dank, Sr. X and Alice Pasquini. The visitant can also join a tour guide and

out cutings

appreciate all.

Well, there are a plenty roll of interesting things one can find.

Just enjoy the time and take it easy!

comes the Camden Lock Village housing several stalls - it is closed now for area redevelopment -, Buck Street Market, focused on clothes and many more attractions. A major attraction for the night lovers is the acclaimed Proud Camden, a mix of art gallery and night club.

The musical scene is a must besides the market.

There is a tradition going along the history, from Ska to Punk Rock and Brit Pop and many cool pubs offers a glimpse of the energy as the Eletric Ballroom. Hawley Arms, Amy Winehouse`s favourite pub serves a fine selection of ales. Then,

Camden market is a bit of an institution, and there are bits of it that are terrific. Visiting on a summer weekend would be hell-on-earth

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Camden Lock is one of London’s most vibrant shopping and entertainment areas

CYBERDOG

T

his emporium of neon, UV and electronic fashions has been a part of Camden market since its original stall opened in 1994. The owners named it after their pet chihuahua

Chichi the Cyberdog, though the cyborgs that guard the shop’s impressive entrance today are

THE LOCK

T

he lock is to the west of the Camden High Street road bridge. The yard and former warehouses, an area

known as Camden Lock, are on the north side of the canal,

a little more imposing than its original mascot. Inside, an escalator takes visitors down to a

at the junction with Chalk Farm Road. This area is adjacent

darkened trove of rave gear: futuristic and cybertronic styles, neon clubwear and Kawaii are

to a canal basin and holds Camden Lock Market, one of the

all covered. Podium dancers wearing incredible outfits and coloured contact lenses entertain

group of markets often called collectively Camden Market.

visitors for as long as they can handle the flashing lights and pounding music.

Check their site: www.cyberdog.net

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AMY’S STATUE

THE HAWLEY ARMS

OI!OI!OI!

W

L

S

hat a lovely black voice for a Jewish beautiful girl with oriental eyes. Amy,

one of the greatest singers of this century,

ocated just beyond the lock next to Camden market the railway tracks and

the canal, the Hawley Arms is a vast Victorian

is a excellent representant of a multicultural

boozer that has risen from the ashes of the

London. Perhaps, no one could represent it

2008 ‘Great fire of Camden’ which destroyed

better. Her beauty opposes kindly well to the

the top two floors.

tone of most of her songs. The ascension and

Renowned regulars, such as Noel

the sundown of the star in a blink of eyes.

‘Mighty Boosh’ Fielding and the late Amy

Winehouse’s 2003 debut album, Frank, was a

Winehouse, helped raise funds for its return. It

critical success in the UK and was nominated

still scores highly on the ‘slebs scale and there’s

for the Mercury Prize. Her 2006 follow-up

plenty of hipster-spotting to be had.

album, Back to Black, led to five 2008 Grammy

ka, Oi, Skins and Sharps.

Football and music lovers, this

place is for you! A cool and crazy shop, the unique sport of Skinhead culture in whole London. There are amazing stuff offered as clothes, boots, hats, vinyls mixed with a tremendous memorabilia.

It’s a Greene King pub, so there’s Abbot

Awards, tying the then record for the most

Ale and IPA as well as Budweiser Budvar, a

wins by a female artist in a single night, and

guest ale hand-pull, fine burbons and a dozen-

made her the first British female to win five

strong wine list. The food selection includes

Grammys. And all started in the streets of

pub grub classics such as fish and chips, pies

Camden. The statue, a fair tribute, is one of the

from Pieminister, moules frites - all for less

most photographed spots of the market.

than a tenner.

}

Camden Market 56 Camden Lock Pl, London NW1 8AF 44 020 3763 9900 http://www.camdenlock.net/ Monday - Sunday 10-18pm

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r e v e r o f m I’ , s e l b b u b g n i w lo b n i s e l b b u b y t t e r P r i a e h t s ’ n o d Lon f o n tio o lub C m l e l a d n tb a o n o o F i t m a H t Tradi s e W r a l popu

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W

hat a remarkable experience!

I had to collect the ticket at the ticket office. It was

Watching a game of a

fast with a very kind service and once it was done was easy

traditional club as West

to get inside the Stadium. With a nice atmosphere, the small

Ham was the dream of any

and old fashion ground was crowded. The average attendance

football passionate fan. Luckily, I could manage to

is about 35.000 supporters but reached more than 42.000 in

get a pair of tickets to watch the Premier League

the 70`s. The Boleyn name came because of the site once

game against Norwich at the Boleyn Ground. All I

was known as Boleyn Castle and was supposed to hosted

had to do was get there and be part of the game!

Anne Boleyn - that`s why there are castle towers place at the

Exactly a hour before the beginning, I was

entrance of the stadium. This is it`s last year of service. At the

arriving easily at the Upton Park tube station, East

end of this season, the Stadium will be demolished in order to

London, among hordes of Claret Blue supporters.

build a modern Arena. And, sadly, it is quite clear why. The

The atmosphere was pleasant and exciting. Some

Stadium, designed in a different time - more than a hundred

fans singing loudly and when we got the Green

years ago - is not able to hold fans in a comfortable way

Street, it became bigger and wilder. Thousand of

neither offers the services expected to a contemporary arena as

supporters around, the smell of sandwiches and

shops, restaurants and many other facilities. Sadly, because all

beer everywhere, joy and pride stamped on each

farewells leave painful marks, mostly when that stadium where

face. West Ham was doing a fine campaign at that

generation after generation of fans grew up and spent most of

point, standing in the third place not so far from

their Saturdays in the among many others like them. Well,

the leader and, most important, wining all derbies,

this is the way of history and few can be done.

like against Arsenal. The opponent squad , the

So, once we found our places in the High Stand -

green and yellow Norwich was coming from a

within a excellent view of the pitch - both teams came along

not impressive sequence with two defeats and two

meanwhile the crowd sang loudly West Ham`s anthem, the

wins and occupying the middle of the table. So,

lovely “i`m Forever Blowing Bubbles�. The rival`s supporters,

the expectation was high for the Hammers fans.

present in a respectable number, also sang loud and for some

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A day in London

moments you could feel why football is so popular - it`s all

discovered that was forbidden to drink it inside.

about passion and involvement, being part of a winning side,

Well, the bottle of warm beer was finished after

sometimes, is not the most important thing.

4 long swigs and had the run to the wc had to be

Once it started, the local team tried to control the game and press Norwich without much danger. With ten minutes, Norwich could control of the game due the presence

super quick because the game was about to begin.

The second half not so different. West ham team trying without inspiration against a determined Norwich happy with the point. At the last minutes, the visitants scored again and, just before the end, West Ham could equalizes one more time.

At this point, I was trying to reach the tube feelig a little bit disappointed. All I could hear was the fans shouting inside the Stadium,

of their two midfield players which were able to distribute the passes and serve the forward. After two very dangerous

comemorating the point obtained at the very end.

The return was strange. The crowd leaving

attempts, Norwich first goal`s was only a matter of time. And

the stadium made us try a bus instead of take the

it happened after a West Ham`s defender mistake. One nihil.

underground. The queues were frightfully huge.

Silent terraces apart the euphoric visitants. After that, the

It was impossible because the streets blocked by

locals have imposed themselves through several good attempts.

the fans. So, we had to walk to the next station,

The draw came with a good headed after a corner. Minutes

Plaistow and then, home.

later, the judge put an end on a opaque frist half.

After some pictures, I tryed to have a beer and it seemed that everybody had the same ideia. The huge queue took me almost 10 minutes to be served and after all, I

Yes, what a wonderful experience. Could feel a little bit of the so famous British football culture in which I grew up in a Brazilian version.

22

We all follow the West Ham, Over land and sea, We all follow the West Ham, On to victory!

A day in London

39

A day in London

THE BOLEYN GROUND

HOW TO GET THERE

I

B

n the early 20th century, West Ham

Boleyn Ground recorded its highest

played their home matches at the

attendance of 42,322 during a match with

Memorial Ground in Canning Town,

Tottenham Hotspur in 1970.

but after a dispute over the rent they

The stadium underwent a major

oleyn Ground is located in the east of London, about 6 miles east of the City of

London.

If arriving by car from the north circular

were forced to look for a new home. They

redevelopment in the mid 1990s when it

A406, leave for Barking/East Ham A124. Turn

found a bare field used by a Roman Catholic

got converted into an all-seater. The works

west onto Barking Road, continue for about

school and soon reached an agreement with the

included the construction of two new stands

1.5 miles, and turn right into Green Street.

Catholic authorities for its use.

at the short ends and major refurbishments on

West Ham played their first match at

If coming from the City, take the A13

the other stands. Boleyn Ground received its

east to Canning Town, then follow the signs

Boleyn Ground on the 1st of September 1904.

current shape in 2001 with the opening of a

for East Ham A124, and after a little more than

Just over 10,000 spectators saw the home side

new West Stand, which raised capacity to its

1.5 miles turn left into Green Street. There

beat Millwall 3-0.

current level.

are few parking possibilities on the day of the

Boleyn Ground received its name from

Despite these renovations, Boleyn

match though.

a house that stood next to the ground, called

Ground remained a limited ground with few

Boleyn Castle, and which supposedly had been

options for expansion. West Ham therefore

at a few minutes walking from the ground.

home to Anne Boleyn. These days Boleyn

started looking into the options of moving

Upton Park is served by both the District and

Ground is more commonly referred to as

away to a new ground, with the London

Hammersmith & City line. The journey from

Upton Park.

Olympic Stadium soon appearing as the prime

either Monument or Liverpool Street station in

candidate.

the City takes about 20 minutes.

The ground was initially a basic affair, but got soon expanded – first in 1919 with a

After a long and drawn-out bidding

The nearest tube station is Upton Park

Due to long queuing at Upton Park

new East Stand and later in 1925 with a new

process, West Ham were finally granted a 99-

after the match, one can opt to walk to either

West Stand and terracing at the short ends.

year lease on the Olympic Stadium in early

Plaistow or East Ham tube stations (both on

This lifted capacity to about 40,000 places.

2013. The club are expected to move into

the same line), or north to Forest Gate train

their new home at the start of the 2016-17

station.

Boleyn Ground got heavily damaged in the Second World War when it got hit by a V-1

season after the stadium will have undergone

bomb, but was soon rebuilt. In 1961 a roof was

several adjustments, which will include the

(from Romford and Canning Town), 58 (from

added to the North Bank, which meant that

reconstruction of the bottom tier and the

Walthamstow), 104 (from Stratford), 115 (from

all stands had cover. The ground underwent its

construction of a new roof. The resulting

Aldgate), and 376 (from Beckton). These buses

last major pre-90s change when in 1969 a new

capacity will be 54,000 seats.

either pass the stadium on Barking Road or on

East Stand was built.

Buses that serve the stadium are line 5

Green Street.

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A day in London

I’m forever blowing bubbles, Pretty bubbles in the air, They fly so high, Nearly reach the sky, Then like my dreams, They fade and die, Fortunes always hiding, I’ve looked everywhere, I’m forever blowing bubbles, Pretty bubbles in the air.

A day in London

25

42

A day in London

43

A day in London

BEER & FOOTBALL FUN AND TRADITION IN COVENT GARDEN

44

A day in London

Football and beer. values to most of the guys around the world. Complementary cultures. After all, how

could anyone support your own football club without a pint

almost at the corner of the Freemanson`s Hall.

What better excuse I could use to justify a visit to a pub then drink where the Football Association was founded? A pint of a pretty fine Spitfire beer? Yes, that`s right!

in hands? Yes, you`ll agree it

The story tells that the

won`t be the same feeling.

representatives of some clubs

How many Sunday afternoons I spent singing my beloved club chants in Maracana terraces while drinking several cold beer tins?

With that mood, overtime I walk

as Crystal Palace, Surbiton, Crusaders and Barnes met at the Freemanson`s Tavern, that time situated at Great Queen Street, near to where Holborn tube station nowadays, in 1863. The purpose

around I try to keep my eyes opened and that`s

of the meeting was to establish rules for the

how I have came across with Freemanson`s

regulation of football in the same way Cricket

Arms, a charming pub located in the Long

had at time. In this way, the sport acquired a

Acre Street, quite close to Covent Garden and

common and general ground of rules in which

The pub displays a small but interesting collection of football memorabilia related to the foundation of the Association

F

ootball and beer. Two supreme

45

A day in London

beer and Footbal. it could be played with and turning the truly seed of what became the most popular sport in the world.

Unfortunatelly, the excitement don`t stand after you arrive at the place. Apart from a small table

Ok. Let`s enjoy what can be enjoyed.

The pub offers a quite good atmosphere with a decent range of beers - most of them cask ales produced by Shepherd Neame. I tryed a pint of the brand new Spitfire Gold, a tasteful

with an almost unreadable

golden ale that caused good

text about the story at the

impression. The kitchen was

beginning and another

closed so we could`t taste

shy rack containing some

the food - burgers, chips

interesting memorabilia, there is nothing else that could evoke the atmosphere one would expect to find. It is a regular pub. Well, a nice and

and some specials chicken dishes are served with affordable prices between ÂŁ4 to ÂŁ 12. The decoration is a very traditional one, two

charming one. Actually, the fact of the current

big halls full of oak heavy furniture, mirrors

address changed contributes significantly to this

and tvs where customers enjoy pleasant

sort of disappointment. One would suggest that

moments. As I had.

should be more relevance to the matter.

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A day in London

T

his 4.2% Kentish ale was first brewed in 1990 to commemorate the Battle of Britain which was fought in the skies

above Kent 50 years earlier. The beer is named after the legendary Spitfire aeroplane designed by courage of its pilots were essential to victory and were a key symbol of the spirit of that time.

2015 marks the 75th anniversary of the Battle of Britain and 25 years since Spitfire Premium Kentish Ale was first brewed to commemorate The Few. A well-balanced, light golden ale, Spitfire Gold is a befitting way to honour these heroes and a Great British icon.

Brewed by Britain’s oldest brewer, Spitfire Gold is a new, permanent addition to the Shepherd Neame portfolio and a sweeter extension to the Spitfire brand. Its sweet malt base is built upon with tropical aromas imparted by some of the most popular hops of the moment, including Challenger, Centennial and Saaz

SPITFIRE GOLDEN

RJ Mitchell. The versatility of the aircraft and the

47

A day in London

THE FOOTBALL ASSOCIATION Or how was founded the ‘football as we know it’

F

or centuries before the first meeting of the

Palace, Blackheath, Kensington School, Perceval House

Football Association in The Freemasons’

(Blackheath), Surbiton and Blackheath Proprietary School;

Tavern on Great Queen Street, London

Charterhouse sent their captain, B.F. Hartshorne, but

on 26 October 1863, there were no

universally accepted rules for playing football.

declined the offer to join. Many of these clubs are now defunct or play rugby union.

In each public school the game was formalised

Central to the creation of the Football

according to local conditions; but when the

Association and modern football was Ebenezer

schoolboys reached university, chaos ensued

Cobb Morley. He was a founding member of the

when the players used different rules, so

Football Association in 1863. In 1862, as captain

members of the University of Cambridge

of Barnes, he wrote to Bell’s Life newspaper

devised and published a set of Cambridge Rules in 1848 which was widely adopted. Another set of rules, the Sheffield Rules, was used by a number of clubs in the North of England from the 1850s.

Eleven London football clubs and schools representatives met in 26 October 1863 to agree on common rules. The founding clubs present at the first meeting were Barnes, Civil Service, Crusaders, Forest of Leytonstone (later to become Wanderers), N.N. (No Names) Club (Kilburn), the original Crystal

proposing a governing body for the sport that led to the first meeting at The Freemasons’ Tavern that created the FA. The first version of the rules for the modern game was drawn up over a series of six meetings held in The Freemasons’ Tavern from October till December.

In 1992, the Football Association took control of the newly created Premier and it becme the one of the richest football leagues in the world.

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Freemansons Arms Pub 81/82 Longacre, Covent Garden London WC2E 9NG 44 020 7836 3115 www.shepherdneame.co.uk/pubs/covent-garden/freemasons-arms Opening Hours Monday - Sunday 12-23pm