Cool things to do in London . November 2015
Oxford street tate modern camden town west ham freemanson’s arm pub
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Few Words i all. Here we are bringing the second number of A Day in London. London is so incredibly rich in attractions, traditions and culture that is difficult to choose properly the stories. What is more interesting to talk about? This museum or that pub? What would match with the stories? With these irrelevant matters in mind, we have balanced the stories in order to make our reader happy. We will start in Oxford Street, the elegant fancy shopping spot. We will walk through this long rushed road trying to get its spirit, its colours and all glamour that it is famous for. After struggling on the crowded sidewalks of Oxford Street, we cross the river to visit a world class museum, Tate Modern, an exquisite power station that houses a top modern art collection. After some precious hours of culture, we ride north towards the pitoresque Camden Town to visit one of the most acclaimed London’s
of West Ham Football Club in the last season of the Upton Park. The final
market. We spent some pleasant hours walking through Camden High
stop will be at another London gem, the Freemanson’s Arms Pub, in Covent
Road, the bankside along the channel and visiting many cool shops. Our
Garden, a place rich in history and good beer. So, if you are invited to join us coming on and exploring some of
tour finishes with some fine pints of ale in Amy Winehouse’s favorite pub and from there we have to rush to East London to watch a game
London’s finests treasures.
Photographs & graphic design by Pablo de Mello | November 2015
Having a pint in Freemanson’s Arms
42 To Drink
Supporting the Hammers
34 Having Fun
Freaking out in Camden Town
28 A Walk
A walk in the house of Modern Art
16 Culture
Taste the luxury of Oxford Street
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To Shop
Contents
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A day in London
THE
OXFO
STREET
Ellegance a have an a
A day in London
THE
ORD
STREET
and luxury address
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Th
El Do
for Shop
O
xford street. Think about rush.
although others business and commercial spots
retail purposes by the late 19th century, despite
People. Ellegant people, I mean.
as the magnificent Fifth Avenue in New York
attracting street traders, confidence tricksters
Fashion and trends, cool brands
have such global importance.
and prostitution. The first department stores in
and expensive clothes. Ellegance
The road was originally a Roman Road,
Britain opened on Oxford Street in the early
and tradition. Hype and opulence. All mixed in
part of the Via Trinobantina between Essex
20th century, including Selfridges, John Lewis
several shops along less than 2 kilometres in the
and Hampshire via London. It was known as
and HMV.
very centre of London. London`s catwalk.
Tyburn Road through the Middle Ages and
The busiest street of whole Europe
During the WWII, the area suffered
was once notorious as a street where prisoners
massive damage because of bombardment.
attracts more than half million people daily,
from Newgate Prison would be transported
Unlike nearby shopping streets such as
between shoppers, workers and tourists
towards a public hanging. It became known as
Bond Street, it has retained an element of
and houses more than 300 shops. The most
Oxford Street in the 18th century after been
downmarket street trading alongside more
important luxury and fashion brands have
developed as an entertainment area by the
prestigious retail stores. It became a world
branches there making Oxford Street an
Earl of Oxford, and began to change character
luxury shopping destination and any of the
international reference for style and commerce
from a residential street to commercial and
main retail chains like Selfridges keep their
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he
orad0
paholics main branch as flagstore in the Street.
However, there remain a number of Victorian
designed to be the triumphal entrance of the
and Edwardian buildings with architectural
Buckingham Palace and close to the magnify
one. If you look on a map, you will note that
decoration, above all the varied rooftops with
Hyde Park.
it is just a section of a bigger road connecting
domes and spires, but also some architectural
Bank Square and Saint Paul Cathedral to far as
sculpture. Standing out as the most significant
several famous streets as Park and Duke streets
Chiswick, which other sections changing its
sculpture is the group of allegorical figures on
and gets by the important tube station of Bond
name as Cheapside, Holborn, Bayswater Road
the front of Selfridges, and at the end to the
Street. In this section, we can find several
and Holland Park Avenue.
West is the early 19th century sculpture on
amazing buildings and shops. Perhaps, the most
Marble Arch.
significant is the imposing Selfridges, a mark
However, Oxford Street is a quite small
Along the western reaches of Oxford Street are ever more modern buildings,
We can divide the street in sections in
The street continues down passing
in the retail industry. Opened in 1909, it is still
for this is the richer, more desirable part
the same way. A good way would be using
the second biggest department store in Europe
of London’s premier shopping street, and
the tube stations as landmarks. The first
and was designed by the American architect
every redevelopment is a chance to build
section would begin at Marble Arch tube
Burnham who use the innovative technique
higher, deeper, and maximise the retail space.
station, exactly in front of the superb structure
of steel frame to build it in the Beaux-Arts
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MARBLE ARCH
MARKS & SPENCER
SELFRIDGE’S
Marble Arch is a 19th-century white marble faced triumphal arch. The structure was designed by John Nash in 1827 to be the state entrance to the cour d’honneur of Buckingham Palace; it stood near the site of what is today the three bayed, central projection of the palace containing the well known balcony. In the early 1960s is now sited, isolated and incongruously, on a large traffic island at the junction of Oxford Street, Park Lane, and Edgware Road. Historically, only members of the Royal Family and the King’s Troop, Royal Horse Artillery are permitted to pass through the arch.
Marks & Spencer is a world famous department store selling clothes for women, men and children, home furnishings and food. It is a major British multinational retailer founded in 1884 by Michael Marks and Thomas Spencer in Leeds. Nowadays, it is a fine retail chain with 1,330 stores worldwide employing more than 10,000 people and serving over 33 millions customers every year. The quality of their products makes the brands fame. The company houses two different branches in Oxford Street, both offering high quality service and products.
Selfridges is one of the world’s finest department stores and dominates the west end of Oxford Street. The shop has six floors offering 10 acres of shopping space, 11 places to eat, two exhibition halls and countless services. From high fashion to hi-fi, wardrobe co-ordination to wedding lists, it’s every shop you’ll ever need. Luxury lovers should visit the ground floor Wonder Room, a 19,000 square feet haven of high-end brands that range from jewellery to sunglasses. The store is also home to the world’s biggest-ever denim department, with nothing but jeans covering a whopping 25,000 square feet.
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OXFORD STREET
Marylebone
SOME INTERESTING SPOTS
Hyde Park
Fitzrovia
Mayfair
Soho
PARK HOUSE
OXFORD CIRCUS TUBE
EDWARDIAN STYLE
An exhilarating expression of modern architecture and design, Park House consists of high-end retail units, luxury residential apartments and some of the most modern office space in the West End. Nine storeys high and 145 metres long, Park House makes an impression yet remains sympathetic to its surroundings. A premium mixed-use building, Park House consists of high-end retail units, luxury residential apartments and some of the most modern office space in the West End. At the eastern end there are 39 luxury residential apartments and home to eight flagship stores including Zara and Swarovski.
Right in the middle of Oxford Street, Oxford Circus Underground is the destination of thousands of shoppers every day. The station is connected to the Central, Bakerloo and Victoria lines. It is the busiest station in the United Kingdom, with 98.51 million entries and exits in 2014. On the Central line it is between Bond Street and Tottenham Court Road, on the Bakerloo line it is between Regent’s Park and Piccadilly Circus, and on the Victoria line it is between Green Park and Warren Street. The Central line station opened on 1900, and the Bakerloo line station on 1906.
As we head west from Oxford Circus, almost immediately on the south side is a range of Victorian and Edwardian 4-5 storey buildings, narrow in frontage, leading up to Harewood Place. On the nearer corner is a bright red terra-cotta building, and opposite on the West side, is a splendid buff-coloured building with corner dome and spire, no. 293, which runs the full distance along Harewood Place with three further spiky domes, pointed gables, and minor sculptural ornament in relief. The sculptural décor includes little frieze panels showing grotesque griffins and cartouches with scrolly shields.
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DEBEHAMS
Waring AND Gillow
Queen Anne style
Debehams is probably the best organised of the London department stores for actual, practical shopping, with substance taking precedence over style. As well as a huge range of branded and own-brand fashion for the whole family, Debenhams Oxford Street offers exclusive, affordable collections from internationally renowned designer names. Their designer partnerships extend into accessories and homewares. There’s a good choice of the latest products and beauty rooms from the world’s top cosmetics houses and three in-store restaurants and cafes.
This is one special Queen Anne building, massive, grand, and profusely decorated with sculpture, filling the whole block between Great Titchfield Street and Winsley Street: this is the former Waring and Gillow Building, at Nos. 164-188 Oxford Street. It was once the grandest of furniture makers, manufacturing in Lancaster and Liverpool, and fitting out grand hotels, luxury ocean liners, and furnishing the houses of the very well off. The architect was R. Frank Atkinson, and the date on the building is 1905. Four storeys high with two further dormer storeys, the sculptural interest comes above.
The strength of the Queen Anne style when carried to some length can be felt with the gorgeous n. 111125 Oxford Street, and the date is similar to Berwick House – 1887 – and the architect is Banister Fletcher, of considerable renown more as much for his writing on architecture as his buildings. The decoration is good – heads at the tops of the ground floor pilasters, with friezes above; spandrel carving above the broad arches at the first floor, and a continuous band of moulding above the second floor, together with additions above the principal entrance, including two pots in niches at the top.
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London Palladium It is a 2,286-seat theatre located on Argyll Street. From the roster of stars who have played there and many televised performances, it is arguably the most famous theatre in London and the United Kingdom, especially for musical variety shows. The theatre started out as a premier venue for variety performances. It is especially linked to the Royal Variety Performances, where many were held. In1973, glam rock band Slade played a gig which resulted in the venue’s balcony nearly collapsing. The Palladium was also the setting for the 2007 BAFTA awards, which were broadcast on BBC television.
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THE LIBERTY
BERWICK HOUSE
Liberty is a department store on Regent Street. The department store sells a wide range of luxury goods including women’s, men’s and children’s fashion, cosmetics and fragrances, jewellery, accessories, homeware and gifts. Liberty is known for its floral and graphic prints. The Tudor building of the Liberty department store was built while the substantial premises on Regent Street were being renovated. It allowed the firm to continue trading, and the magnificent wing was completed in 1924 when the fashion for neo-Tudor architecture was at its height.
Back on the south side of Oxford Street, on the eastern corner of Berwick Street is Berwick House, dated 1886, with another variation on the rounded corner leading to a spire, this time shaped rather like a downward hanging bluebell, with elegant pillars in front of recessed windows on the two floors below above the low first storey and the corner doorway. Gables and dormers are higher up, with various minor decoration, principally wreaths. A building that successfully looks larger and more powerful than its size.
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style with huge Ionic columns. Its 50 thousand
these collection of different styles provokes
meters, houses several important plays and
square meters attracts millions of visitors
controversy and, at the same time, shows the
musicals. The shopper will find countless cool
and customers every year and the building is
power and rythm of business.
shops as Disney Store, Chanel, Thorntons,
appears in the Statutory List of Buildings of
The next section begins with Bond
Zara, Fossil, Next and many more.
Special Architectural or Historic Interest.
Street tube station and follows down to
Going east from Oxford Circus towards
Other important shops in this section are
the transcendental Oxford Circus Station
Centre Point, we are not expecting anything
Primark, H&M, Topshop and Mark Spencer,
crossing streets as Woodstock, New Bond and
grand, but a range of interesting minor
references in the street attracting crowds of
Holles Street.
decorative sculpture, which would be quite
shoppers. Another important building with
Important buildings are located
noticed were it not dwarfed by such large
contemporary and radical design is the Park
around this part of the Oxford Street. Liberty
buildings, and ignored by people intent only
House development, a massive framework
departament store, built in the XIX century
on shopping. But along the way, we can see the
of glass and steel that houses several shops,
in Tudor Style, evokes a glimpse of a romantic
typical late 19th Century style used on Oxford
offices and residences. The contrast between
past and the Palladium Theatre, close by few
Street, with minor decorative carving and a
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variety of pleasing towers and domes; the grand former Waring and Gillow store, good terra cotta work. After the phenomenal Regent Street, we quickly reach the end of Oxford Street arriving at Tottenham Court Road Tube Station. There are several shops, from sports to fancy clothes. The streets are crowded mainly at the weekends and the Christmas time when flocks of visitants comes to walk and see the lights and the offers. Well, we hope you have enjoyed the little tour. Have a nice shopping!
Oxford street has a great selection of shops all of which are huge! If you go leave plenty of time because I could happily spend a couple of hours in some of them!
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Best known for its premium shopping, Regent Street now rivals the Champs-Elysées and Fifth Avenue as a world-class visitor destination
Regent Street
S
ituated in the heart of
relax and dine within the stylish
London’s West End,
cafes, restaurants and bars located
Regent Street is one
along Regent Street such as Aqua
easy walking distance of Oxford
John Nash, whose street layout
of the capital’s most famous
and Hawksmoor, and within the
Circus and Piccadilly Circus
survives , although all of his
thoroughfares. Home to more
Regent Street food quarters of
underground stations, Regent
original buildings except All Souls
than 75 international flagship
Heddon Street and Swallow Street
Street’s internationally renowned
Church have since been replaced.
stores such as Liberty, Apple,
such as Bentley’s, Veeraswamy,
Georgian architecture offers
The Christmas light displays are
Banana Republic, Hamleys and
Gaucho, Momo, Aubaine and
visitors a truly unique shopping
a London tradition dating since
Anthropologie; Regent Street is
belowzero restaurant+lounge. The
experience. For an historical guide
1948, when the Regent Street
London’s ultimate shopping and
stores on Regent Street are open
to the architecture of Regent
Association decorated the street
lifestyle destination.
from 10am and generally close
Street, Europe’s first purpose-
with Christmas trees.
between 8 and 9pm and many of
built shopping street, it is named
the restaurants and bars are open
after the Prince Regent (later
Every year over 70 million visitors come to shop as well as
until late. Perfectly situated within
George IV) and is commonly associated with the architect
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Oxford Circus
T
he busy intersection of
hour pass through the junction
Oxford Street and Regent
including those accessing the London
Street is a main spot and
Underground station
reference served by many bus
In 2009, Westminster City
routes and by Oxford Circus tube
Council started a pedestrianisation
station, which is directly beneath the
scheme for the area, allowing
junction itself.
shoppers to cross the intersection
At the end of the 2000s,
diagonally as well as the traditional
Oxford Circus had the highest
‘straight ahead’, turning it into a
pedestrian volumes recorded
“pedestrian scramble”, much like
anywhere in London. At the busiest
Tokyo’s Shibuya crossing. Work
times, over 40,000 pedestrians per
started in Summer 2009
luxurious and cosmopolitan
OXFORD STREET REPRESENTS THE VERY
LONDON’S SPIRIT
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TA
A walk in th house of M
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TE
he London’s Modern Art
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The national gallery of international modern art ho
A
visit to London isn’t complete without a trip to Tate Modern. What started in 1897 as a single gallery of 65 paintings devoted
solely to British art, has grown and diversified over the last century, providing an essential supplement to the collections of the National Gallery. The Tate now comprises nearly 70,000 works, spread across four separate museums:
former Bankside Power Station on the banks
a comprehensive collection of modern
Tate Britain, Tate Modern, Tate Liverpool and
of the Thames, at Southwark, very near of the
international art since 1900, its treasures
Tate St Ives. Tate Modern provides London
Globe Theather and to Shard, London`s tallest
include one of the finest museum collections
with a major collection of international
building.
of Surrealism, with works by Dalí, Magritte
modern and contemporary works. Britain’s
Since it opened in 2000, Tate
and Miró. Early modernist movements are
national museum of modern and contemporary
Modern has established itself as the most-
represented by Picasso, Mondrian and Matisse.
art from around the world is housed in the
visited art gallery in the world. Displaying
There is Pop Art by Warhol and
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olds the national collection of British art from 1900
The museum is in the process of rearranging its galleries prior to the opening of an ambitious new extension in 2016, so check the website ahead of time. Not to be missed is the new collection of Rothko murals, originally created for the Seagram building in New York, and displays devoted to Cy Twombley and the video pioneer Nam June Paik (both on Level 4). Lichtenstein and Abstract Expressionist works by Pollock and Rothko. Minimalism and
enriched the holdings of contemporary art. The vast Turbine Hall is a dramatic
Head to the Restaurant on Level 6 or the Espresso Bar on Level 3 for stunning vistas
Conceptual art are also well represented, with
entrance point used to showcase big, audacious
of the Thames. The view of St. Paul’s from
iconic works by Carl Andre, Donald Judd
installations that tend to generate a lot of
the Espresso Bar’s balcony is one of the best in
and Joseph Beuys. The recent acquisition of
publicity. Past highlights include Olafur
London.
the Artist Rooms collection (shared with the
Eliasson’s massive glowing sun and Carsten
National Galleries of Scotland) has dramatically
Holler’s huge metal slides.
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A great collection of modern art, amazing building and on the vibrant south bank. You must come here if you love art.
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Braque Picasso Delaunay Gris Kirchner Klee Matisse Rothko Warhol Newman Kapoor Lichtenstein Kandinsky Fontana Johns Hockney Albers Dubuffet Serra Stella Blake Mondrian Miro
ROTHKO The master of spirituality
A
prominent figure among the New
a range of styles that evolved from figurative
belief often put him at odds with the art world
York School painters, Mark Rothko
to abstract. His search for new forms of
establishment, leading him to publicly respond
moved through many artistic styles
expression led to his Color Field paintings,
to critics, and occasionally refuse commissions,
until reaching his signature 1950s motif of soft,
which employed shimmering color to convey
sales and exhibitions. The set of Mark Rothko
rectangular forms floating on a stained field
a sense of spirituality. Rothko maintained
paintings originally commissioned for the
of color. Heavily influenced by mythology
the social revolutionary ideas of his youth
Four Seasons restaurant in New York are the
and philosophy, he was insistent that his art
throughout his life. In particular he supported
treasure of Tate Modern. They occupy a room
was filled with content, and brimming with
of their own, low-lit and filled with brooding
ideas. A fierce champion of social revolutionary
intensity. The hazy outlines of what might
thought, and the right to self-expression,
be doors, windows, or the gates of heaven
Rothko also expounded his views in numerous
and hell hover on the wine red and imperial
essays and critical reviews.
purple surfaces of Rothko’s mural-scale
Highly informed by Nietzsche, Greek
abstractions. In all of them darkness beckons,
mythology, and his Russian-Jewish heritage,
mordantly inviting the beholder to imagine
Rothko’s art was profoundly imbued with
artists’ total freedom of expression, which he
vast apocalyptic landscapes, undefinable events
emotional content that he articulated through
felt was compromised by the market. This
on a cosmic scale.
A day in London
Sir Giles Gilbert Scott (1880 – 1960) was an English architect known for his work on such structures as Liverpool Cathedral, Waterloo Bridge and Battersea Power Station and designing the iconic red telephone box. He was noted for his
Bankside is a 200 m (660 ft) long, steel framed, brick clad building with a substantial central chimney which stands at 99 m (325 ft). The chimney’s height was limited to less than that of St Paul’s Cathedral, which stands directly opposite inward from the north bank of the Thames.
blending of Gothic tradition with modernism, making what might otherwise have been functionallydesigned buildings into popular landmarks.
Bankside
STRUCTURE
ARCHITECT
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Power Station is a former oilfired power station, located on the south bank of the River Thames, in the Bankside district of London. It generated electricity from 1952 to 1981. Since 2000 the station’s building has been used to house the Tate Modern art museum.
Tate Modern Bankside, London SE1 9TG 020 7887 8888 www.tate.org.uk Opening Hours Monday - Sunday 10-22pm
A sensitive reworking of a power station as a huge modern art gallery
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FREAKING OUT IN
CAMDEN TOWN Artsy and hipster the quirk market has all kinds of trinkets and foods from all over the world
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“
Camden Lock Market awakens all your senses
A
cool place immortalised by one of
Lock Market, which opened in 1972.
the greatest voices of the last 30
years of the international music,
workshops, studios, stalls, shops, cafes, restaurants
Amy Winehouse, holds a major hot
and bars selling an individual and extensive array
Today, there are hundreds of designer
spot for every alternative culture lover.
of high quality goods from designer, alternative &
Camden’s group of markets is now the fourth
vintage clothing and accessories to one-off pieces
most-visited tourist attraction in London. It is
of art, furnishings, antiques, jewellery, records &
the largest street market in the UK, and attracts
CDs, collectables, arts & crafts and international
around 500,000 visitors each week. There are
food.
various markets located in Camden Town which
are collectively known as Camden Market.
London, well situated very close to the Regent`s
The area around Camden Lock was first
Camden Town, situated in the north of
Park and the fundamental Saint Pancras train station,
developed in 1791 by the Earl of Camden, with
became a major trendy attractions some years ago
the famous Regents Canal opening in 1820. The
with an eclectic mix of bars, restaurants and shops
first market to appear in Camden was Camden
around the area of the Camden Market and now
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Lots of ind
with the one off typ
which make a place
a visit . The high str attracts more than 10 million tourists each year and is now one
of unique shops an
of London`s most popular places.
experience for day
The main Camden High Street is itself a spectacular
spot where interesting shops with different stuff as vintage, goth and punk cloths, tattoos and cool cloths works in a harmonious cultural melting pot. Different tribes can be found hanging around, enriching the tour.
The close presence of the pleasant Regent`s Canal
boosts the affluence of people interested to relax on its
artcrafts, jewellery and vintage cloth. Be prepared to face the
picturesque banks and also to take a boat tour to Little Venice,
crowd of shoppers and visitants during the weekends!
just north of Paddington.
the horses of the Pickfords transport company were housed.
Naturally, the tour takes the visitor to the Camden
Then, comes the Stables Market where once
market, composed by more than 450 shops divided insome
There are an amazing variety of shops offering such different
different sections. The first one to come in the flow is the
stuff since Asian food to sex toys. Highlights for some books
Camden Lock Market where, once upon a time, on a site
and vintage shops as well as the Oi Oi Oi shop, specialised in
formerly occupied by warehouses associated with the canal.
ska and oi goods. Do not miss Amy Winehouse`s Statue and
Operating since the seventies, the market offers a diverse array
Ciberdog, a trendy and incredible shop selling from electronic
of goods, since several options of good food as well as books,
music and clubber stuff, sex clothes and bizarre stuff. Next,
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dependent traders
pe of purchase
e like this worth
reet also had lots
nd creates a good
comes Chalk Farm Road with its several places as Bar Fly, where Prince shone in his early career.
Another hot tip is to check the rich and colourful
Street Art around, with grafittis of Hunto, Dank, Sr. X and Alice Pasquini. The visitant can also join a tour guide and
out cutings
appreciate all. Well, there are a plenty roll of interesting things one can find. Just enjoy the time and take it easy!
comes the Camden Lock Village housing several stalls - it is closed now for area redevelopment -, Buck Street Market, focused on clothes and many more attractions. A major attraction for the night lovers is the acclaimed Proud Camden, a mix of art gallery and night club.
The musical scene is a must besides the market.
There is a tradition going along the history, from Ska to Punk Rock and Brit Pop and many cool pubs offers a glimpse of the energy as the Eletric Ballroom. Hawley Arms, Amy Winehouse`s favourite pub serves a fine selection of ales. Then,
Camden market is a bit of an institution, and there are bits of it that are terrific. Visiting on a summer weekend would be hell-on-earth
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Camden Lock is one of London’s most vibrant shopping and entertainment areas
CYBERDOG
T
his emporium of neon, UV and electronic fashions has been a part of Camden market since its original stall opened in 1994. The owners named it after their pet chihuahua
Chichi the Cyberdog, though the cyborgs that guard the shop’s impressive entrance today are
THE LOCK
T
he lock is to the west of the Camden High Street road bridge. The yard and former warehouses, an area
known as Camden Lock, are on the north side of the canal,
a little more imposing than its original mascot. Inside, an escalator takes visitors down to a
at the junction with Chalk Farm Road. This area is adjacent
darkened trove of rave gear: futuristic and cybertronic styles, neon clubwear and Kawaii are
to a canal basin and holds Camden Lock Market, one of the
all covered. Podium dancers wearing incredible outfits and coloured contact lenses entertain
group of markets often called collectively Camden Market.
visitors for as long as they can handle the flashing lights and pounding music. Check their site: www.cyberdog.net
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AMY’S STATUE
THE HAWLEY ARMS
OI!OI!OI!
W
L
S
hat a lovely black voice for a Jewish beautiful girl with oriental eyes. Amy,
one of the greatest singers of this century,
ocated just beyond the lock next to Camden market the railway tracks and
the canal, the Hawley Arms is a vast Victorian
is a excellent representant of a multicultural
boozer that has risen from the ashes of the
London. Perhaps, no one could represent it
2008 ‘Great fire of Camden’ which destroyed
better. Her beauty opposes kindly well to the
the top two floors.
tone of most of her songs. The ascension and
Renowned regulars, such as Noel
the sundown of the star in a blink of eyes.
‘Mighty Boosh’ Fielding and the late Amy
Winehouse’s 2003 debut album, Frank, was a
Winehouse, helped raise funds for its return. It
critical success in the UK and was nominated
still scores highly on the ‘slebs scale and there’s
for the Mercury Prize. Her 2006 follow-up
plenty of hipster-spotting to be had.
album, Back to Black, led to five 2008 Grammy
ka, Oi, Skins and Sharps. Football and music lovers, this
place is for you! A cool and crazy shop, the unique sport of Skinhead culture in whole London. There are amazing stuff offered as clothes, boots, hats, vinyls mixed with a tremendous memorabilia.
It’s a Greene King pub, so there’s Abbot
Awards, tying the then record for the most
Ale and IPA as well as Budweiser Budvar, a
wins by a female artist in a single night, and
guest ale hand-pull, fine burbons and a dozen-
made her the first British female to win five
strong wine list. The food selection includes
Grammys. And all started in the streets of
pub grub classics such as fish and chips, pies
Camden. The statue, a fair tribute, is one of the
from Pieminister, moules frites - all for less
most photographed spots of the market.
than a tenner.
}
Camden Market 56 Camden Lock Pl, London NW1 8AF 44 020 3763 9900 http://www.camdenlock.net/ Monday - Sunday 10-18pm
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r e v e r o f m I’ , s e l b b u b g n i w lo b n i s e l b b u b y t t e r P r i a e h t s ’ n o d Lon f o n tio o lub C m l e l a d n tb a o n o o F i t m a H t Tradi s e W r a l popu
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W
hat a remarkable experience!
I had to collect the ticket at the ticket office. It was
Watching a game of a
fast with a very kind service and once it was done was easy
traditional club as West
to get inside the Stadium. With a nice atmosphere, the small
Ham was the dream of any
and old fashion ground was crowded. The average attendance
football passionate fan. Luckily, I could manage to
is about 35.000 supporters but reached more than 42.000 in
get a pair of tickets to watch the Premier League
the 70`s. The Boleyn name came because of the site once
game against Norwich at the Boleyn Ground. All I
was known as Boleyn Castle and was supposed to hosted
had to do was get there and be part of the game!
Anne Boleyn - that`s why there are castle towers place at the
Exactly a hour before the beginning, I was
entrance of the stadium. This is it`s last year of service. At the
arriving easily at the Upton Park tube station, East
end of this season, the Stadium will be demolished in order to
London, among hordes of Claret Blue supporters.
build a modern Arena. And, sadly, it is quite clear why. The
The atmosphere was pleasant and exciting. Some
Stadium, designed in a different time - more than a hundred
fans singing loudly and when we got the Green
years ago - is not able to hold fans in a comfortable way
Street, it became bigger and wilder. Thousand of
neither offers the services expected to a contemporary arena as
supporters around, the smell of sandwiches and
shops, restaurants and many other facilities. Sadly, because all
beer everywhere, joy and pride stamped on each
farewells leave painful marks, mostly when that stadium where
face. West Ham was doing a fine campaign at that
generation after generation of fans grew up and spent most of
point, standing in the third place not so far from
their Saturdays in the among many others like them. Well,
the leader and, most important, wining all derbies,
this is the way of history and few can be done.
like against Arsenal. The opponent squad , the
So, once we found our places in the High Stand -
green and yellow Norwich was coming from a
within a excellent view of the pitch - both teams came along
not impressive sequence with two defeats and two
meanwhile the crowd sang loudly West Ham`s anthem, the
wins and occupying the middle of the table. So,
lovely “i`m Forever Blowing Bubbles�. The rival`s supporters,
the expectation was high for the Hammers fans.
present in a respectable number, also sang loud and for some
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A day in London
moments you could feel why football is so popular - it`s all
discovered that was forbidden to drink it inside.
about passion and involvement, being part of a winning side,
Well, the bottle of warm beer was finished after
sometimes, is not the most important thing.
4 long swigs and had the run to the wc had to be
Once it started, the local team tried to control the game and press Norwich without much danger. With ten minutes, Norwich could control of the game due the presence
super quick because the game was about to begin. The second half not so different. West ham team trying without inspiration against a determined Norwich happy with the point. At the last minutes, the visitants scored again and, just before the end, West Ham could equalizes one more time. At this point, I was trying to reach the tube feelig a little bit disappointed. All I could hear was the fans shouting inside the Stadium,
of their two midfield players which were able to distribute the passes and serve the forward. After two very dangerous
comemorating the point obtained at the very end. The return was strange. The crowd leaving
attempts, Norwich first goal`s was only a matter of time. And
the stadium made us try a bus instead of take the
it happened after a West Ham`s defender mistake. One nihil.
underground. The queues were frightfully huge.
Silent terraces apart the euphoric visitants. After that, the
It was impossible because the streets blocked by
locals have imposed themselves through several good attempts.
the fans. So, we had to walk to the next station,
The draw came with a good headed after a corner. Minutes
Plaistow and then, home.
later, the judge put an end on a opaque frist half. After some pictures, I tryed to have a beer and it seemed that everybody had the same ideia. The huge queue took me almost 10 minutes to be served and after all, I
Yes, what a wonderful experience. Could feel a little bit of the so famous British football culture in which I grew up in a Brazilian version.
22
We all follow the West Ham, Over land and sea, We all follow the West Ham, On to victory!
A day in London
39
A day in London
THE BOLEYN GROUND
HOW TO GET THERE
I
B
n the early 20th century, West Ham
Boleyn Ground recorded its highest
played their home matches at the
attendance of 42,322 during a match with
Memorial Ground in Canning Town,
Tottenham Hotspur in 1970.
but after a dispute over the rent they
The stadium underwent a major
oleyn Ground is located in the east of London, about 6 miles east of the City of
London. If arriving by car from the north circular
were forced to look for a new home. They
redevelopment in the mid 1990s when it
A406, leave for Barking/East Ham A124. Turn
found a bare field used by a Roman Catholic
got converted into an all-seater. The works
west onto Barking Road, continue for about
school and soon reached an agreement with the
included the construction of two new stands
1.5 miles, and turn right into Green Street.
Catholic authorities for its use.
at the short ends and major refurbishments on
West Ham played their first match at
If coming from the City, take the A13
the other stands. Boleyn Ground received its
east to Canning Town, then follow the signs
Boleyn Ground on the 1st of September 1904.
current shape in 2001 with the opening of a
for East Ham A124, and after a little more than
Just over 10,000 spectators saw the home side
new West Stand, which raised capacity to its
1.5 miles turn left into Green Street. There
beat Millwall 3-0.
current level.
are few parking possibilities on the day of the
Boleyn Ground received its name from
Despite these renovations, Boleyn
match though.
a house that stood next to the ground, called
Ground remained a limited ground with few
Boleyn Castle, and which supposedly had been
options for expansion. West Ham therefore
at a few minutes walking from the ground.
home to Anne Boleyn. These days Boleyn
started looking into the options of moving
Upton Park is served by both the District and
Ground is more commonly referred to as
away to a new ground, with the London
Hammersmith & City line. The journey from
Upton Park.
Olympic Stadium soon appearing as the prime
either Monument or Liverpool Street station in
candidate.
the City takes about 20 minutes.
The ground was initially a basic affair, but got soon expanded – first in 1919 with a
After a long and drawn-out bidding
The nearest tube station is Upton Park
Due to long queuing at Upton Park
new East Stand and later in 1925 with a new
process, West Ham were finally granted a 99-
after the match, one can opt to walk to either
West Stand and terracing at the short ends.
year lease on the Olympic Stadium in early
Plaistow or East Ham tube stations (both on
This lifted capacity to about 40,000 places.
2013. The club are expected to move into
the same line), or north to Forest Gate train
their new home at the start of the 2016-17
station.
Boleyn Ground got heavily damaged in the Second World War when it got hit by a V-1
season after the stadium will have undergone
bomb, but was soon rebuilt. In 1961 a roof was
several adjustments, which will include the
(from Romford and Canning Town), 58 (from
added to the North Bank, which meant that
reconstruction of the bottom tier and the
Walthamstow), 104 (from Stratford), 115 (from
all stands had cover. The ground underwent its
construction of a new roof. The resulting
Aldgate), and 376 (from Beckton). These buses
last major pre-90s change when in 1969 a new
capacity will be 54,000 seats.
either pass the stadium on Barking Road or on
East Stand was built.
Buses that serve the stadium are line 5
Green Street.
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A day in London
I’m forever blowing bubbles, Pretty bubbles in the air, They fly so high, Nearly reach the sky, Then like my dreams, They fade and die, Fortunes always hiding, I’ve looked everywhere, I’m forever blowing bubbles, Pretty bubbles in the air.
A day in London
25
42
A day in London
43
A day in London
BEER & FOOTBALL FUN AND TRADITION IN COVENT GARDEN
44
A day in London
Football and beer. values to most of the guys around the world. Complementary cultures. After all, how
could anyone support your own football club without a pint
almost at the corner of the Freemanson`s Hall. What better excuse I could use to justify a visit to a pub then drink where the Football Association was founded? A pint of a pretty fine Spitfire beer? Yes, that`s right!
in hands? Yes, you`ll agree it
The story tells that the
won`t be the same feeling.
representatives of some clubs
How many Sunday afternoons I spent singing my beloved club chants in Maracana terraces while drinking several cold beer tins? With that mood, overtime I walk
as Crystal Palace, Surbiton, Crusaders and Barnes met at the Freemanson`s Tavern, that time situated at Great Queen Street, near to where Holborn tube station nowadays, in 1863. The purpose
around I try to keep my eyes opened and that`s
of the meeting was to establish rules for the
how I have came across with Freemanson`s
regulation of football in the same way Cricket
Arms, a charming pub located in the Long
had at time. In this way, the sport acquired a
Acre Street, quite close to Covent Garden and
common and general ground of rules in which
The pub displays a small but interesting collection of football memorabilia related to the foundation of the Association
F
ootball and beer. Two supreme
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A day in London
beer and Footbal. it could be played with and turning the truly seed of what became the most popular sport in the world. Unfortunatelly, the excitement don`t stand after you arrive at the place. Apart from a small table
Ok. Let`s enjoy what can be enjoyed. The pub offers a quite good atmosphere with a decent range of beers - most of them cask ales produced by Shepherd Neame. I tryed a pint of the brand new Spitfire Gold, a tasteful
with an almost unreadable
golden ale that caused good
text about the story at the
impression. The kitchen was
beginning and another
closed so we could`t taste
shy rack containing some
the food - burgers, chips
interesting memorabilia, there is nothing else that could evoke the atmosphere one would expect to find. It is a regular pub. Well, a nice and
and some specials chicken dishes are served with affordable prices between ÂŁ4 to ÂŁ 12. The decoration is a very traditional one, two
charming one. Actually, the fact of the current
big halls full of oak heavy furniture, mirrors
address changed contributes significantly to this
and tvs where customers enjoy pleasant
sort of disappointment. One would suggest that
moments. As I had.
should be more relevance to the matter.
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A day in London
T
his 4.2% Kentish ale was first brewed in 1990 to commemorate the Battle of Britain which was fought in the skies
above Kent 50 years earlier. The beer is named after the legendary Spitfire aeroplane designed by courage of its pilots were essential to victory and were a key symbol of the spirit of that time. 2015 marks the 75th anniversary of the Battle of Britain and 25 years since Spitfire Premium Kentish Ale was first brewed to commemorate The Few. A well-balanced, light golden ale, Spitfire Gold is a befitting way to honour these heroes and a Great British icon. Brewed by Britain’s oldest brewer, Spitfire Gold is a new, permanent addition to the Shepherd Neame portfolio and a sweeter extension to the Spitfire brand. Its sweet malt base is built upon with tropical aromas imparted by some of the most popular hops of the moment, including Challenger, Centennial and Saaz
SPITFIRE GOLDEN
RJ Mitchell. The versatility of the aircraft and the
47
A day in London
THE FOOTBALL ASSOCIATION Or how was founded the ‘football as we know it’
F
or centuries before the first meeting of the
Palace, Blackheath, Kensington School, Perceval House
Football Association in The Freemasons’
(Blackheath), Surbiton and Blackheath Proprietary School;
Tavern on Great Queen Street, London
Charterhouse sent their captain, B.F. Hartshorne, but
on 26 October 1863, there were no
universally accepted rules for playing football.
declined the offer to join. Many of these clubs are now defunct or play rugby union.
In each public school the game was formalised
Central to the creation of the Football
according to local conditions; but when the
Association and modern football was Ebenezer
schoolboys reached university, chaos ensued
Cobb Morley. He was a founding member of the
when the players used different rules, so
Football Association in 1863. In 1862, as captain
members of the University of Cambridge
of Barnes, he wrote to Bell’s Life newspaper
devised and published a set of Cambridge Rules in 1848 which was widely adopted. Another set of rules, the Sheffield Rules, was used by a number of clubs in the North of England from the 1850s. Eleven London football clubs and schools representatives met in 26 October 1863 to agree on common rules. The founding clubs present at the first meeting were Barnes, Civil Service, Crusaders, Forest of Leytonstone (later to become Wanderers), N.N. (No Names) Club (Kilburn), the original Crystal
proposing a governing body for the sport that led to the first meeting at The Freemasons’ Tavern that created the FA. The first version of the rules for the modern game was drawn up over a series of six meetings held in The Freemasons’ Tavern from October till December. In 1992, the Football Association took control of the newly created Premier and it becme the one of the richest football leagues in the world.
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Freemansons Arms Pub 81/82 Longacre, Covent Garden London WC2E 9NG 44 020 7836 3115 www.shepherdneame.co.uk/pubs/covent-garden/freemasons-arms Opening Hours Monday - Sunday 12-23pm