Cool things to do in London | #4 | June 2018
HARRY POTTER PARK THE RAF MUSEUM THE ROYAL PARKS STAMFORD BRIDGE PUB CAMDEN TOWN
CONTENTS
4 THE ROYAL PARKS Wander through the London`s major parks and get astonishing with so much beauty
THE MAKING OF HARRY POTTER Visit and explore the enchanted world of Harry Potter movies, from the project to the execution and filming. Visual effects, models, cloths and much more
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THE ROYAL AIR FORCE MUSEUM Visit the magnific museum that houses a major collection of planes that made history
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Explore the Chelsea`s pitch, place of so many great player and glorious moments
Visit and have a pint in the pub that made history in the British pop music scene, home of Amy Winehouse and The LIbertines
BRIDGE STADIUM
HAWLEY ARMS PUB
MAGIC DREAMS
Take a ride to North`s London to see where the magic happened and whether the behind-the-scenes walking tour casts a spell... So wrote JK Rowling of her boy wizard hero, as he embarked on his magical journey at Hogwarts. It’s a line that resonates with the average Muggle when visiting the Warner Bros Studio Tour. Situated in Leavesden, just off the M25, it’s not the most accessible or glamorous of locations. And from the outside, it’s as thrilling as your average out-of-town retail park, but step through the hulking tin facade and you enter a world of wonder. Before we go any further, you should know that this is no ride-stuffed theme park – you’ll need to go to Universal
Studios in Orlando or Osaka for those kind of Potter thrills. The emphasis here is on the sets and props used in the movies, with a few opportunities to place yourself at the centre of the action. Rather than spoiling the fantasy, this demystification makes you appreciate what you see on screen more: the mechanised serpentine locks on the entrance to the Chamber of Secrets actually worked; each of the thousands of wand boxes in Olivander’s shop were individually labelled; and Hagrid’s head wasn’t actually real – well, some of the time, anyway.
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The magic starts at the Great Hall entrance, an medieval church gate that leaves to the Magician School huge dining room. The sense of scale and details make every visitor break their breath. The visitor can also check many figurine and cloths from the different classes.
If you don’t know your Pensieve from your Patronus charm, then you might not get the most out of this experience, but you’ll still appreciate the effort that went into the franchise becoming one of the biggest box-office draws of all time. Aside from the big show pieces (more of which later), the joy here is peering around Dumbledore’s office, the Griffindor common room and Weasley homestead The Burrow. Likewise, spotting such familiar objects as the actual Goblet of Fire, Tom Riddle’s Diary (pierced by Basilisk fang) and a Golden Snitch. And rather than looking a bit cheaply made when viewed up close, the detail amazes. Let me walk you through . . . There are roughly three main areas to the tour – the first is accessed through,
obviously, the huge doors of the Great Hall of Hogwarts. Here you are shown where they actually filmed, the costumes, the gargoyles, the flagstone floor. The oak tables created for the films which were then aged using axes and chains. They even encouraged the Hogwarts pupils to carve their own graffiti into the wood to make it feel more like a school.
“Harry had never even imagined such a strange and splendid place.” It is so impressive. And then as you leave the hall to enter the rest of the sets you literally see what lies behind the scenes of those great stone walls which, let me tell you, when you’re stood a mere foot away STILL look totally real. Clearly they’re not! Next you enter an Aladdin’s cave of
iconic sets and props and information. There is so much to see and do here, so many things to learn, that you need to take your time. You will see wigs (and learn how they were made – fascinating), see the Gryffindor common room (complete with a portrait of the young Prof McGonagall), the boys dorm, the Potions Classroom, the Ministry of Magic – there is just SO much going on and so many secrets to learn. You can pay for a digital guide but if you don’t, there is lots of information written down for you to read, and if you ask one of the guides who are often wandering around, they are also willing to share little titbits. Like the fact that on the wall in Dumbledore’s study, alongside all the portraits of great wizards past and present, there is also the portrait of a very famous British
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comedian hidden in there . . . And did you know that as Dolores Umbridge became more and more powerful, her wardrobe became progressively pinker? What I really liked is, you can get up close and personal. You can’t touch many of the sets but you can get within breathing distance of them. You can touch the beams above many of the sets which you will SWEAR are wooden, but are in fact a foam which they carve and paint to look like paint.
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them and have your photo taken – no kept within breathing distance of them from behind a barrier. You can also get a taste of Butterbeer here if you wish – but as you can see, it’s not everyone’s cup of tea! After spending an AGE taking your photo next to every set you possibly can (!) it’s on to the final section, which features creatures and scale models. The creatures are nothing short of amazing. A troll’s head here, a mermaid prototype there, a giant snake’s head
BEST OF IT. The sense of scale. Some 4,000 people worked on the films, the most successful movie series ever, over a 10-year period In this section you can also discover the magic behind Quidditch and ride a broomstick for yourself in front of the magic ‘green screen’, or the whole family can take a journey in Ron’s blue car. Then you can obviously buy a photo of your experience afterwards. Quite pricey for one, but if you buy a couple the price is much more palatable.Next up you are in an outside area, where you can stop for a drink and a snack and wander around various sets and props. The 22-foot tall Knight Bus, Hagrid’s motorbike and sidecar, the house at Privett Drive, the Hogwarts Bridge. And what’s great is you can actually climb on
bearing down from the ceiling; an animatronic Buckbeak sat right there in front of you with the full body of feathers they hired a ‘feather expert’ to help them build so they would know exactly how they would lie, if a Hippogriff were real. The attention to detail is phenomenal. Aragog bears down on you, an animatronic figure so complex that nearly 100 technicians were needed to operate it. The giant spider’s hairy look was created by covering it in yak hair, sisal and hemp from brooms. And then you’re walking down Diagon Alley. And it looks nothing like you’d expect (it’s indoors for a start)
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The tour leaves the visitor to see different sets used across the series and all the effects and techniques can be appreciated: The giant pendulum. The potion classroom. The whomping willow. The chamber of secrets door. Dumbledore’s Office.
and yet it looks exactly like you’d expect- with Gringotts Bank at one end and the Weasley brother’s joke shop at the other. Then you turn a corner and see this. The actual model of Hogwarts used in the movies. And it’s impressive. It’s a bit of ‘gasp’ moment and I love the fact that you can walk all the way around it taking photos from various angles, and see up close how detailed and magnificent it really is. That level of artistry carries through to the display devoted to graphic design. Although easily overlooked as you head to the cafe for refreshments (you can bring your own food and drink, but don’t forego the opportunity to sample the Butterbeer), it features everything from witty mock adverts and propaganda posters to Cheeri Owls
cereal boxes and confectionery (the “U-No-Poo” constipation sweets being a family favourite). Each item may have only been glimpsed in the films, but they look like works of art in their own right. Although billed as a tour, there’s very little shepherding around or prompts to “Keep up at the back.” A couple of short films – one introduced by the stars of the show, Daniel Radcliffe, Rupert Grint and Emma Watson – are followed by a theatrical pause as you steel yourself to enter the Great Hall of Hogwarts. And mightily impressive it is, too. From there, you’re on your own, free to view the exhibits at your own pace (audio guides are an optional, paid extra, but far from essential). “It should take you about three and half hours to go around,” the guide says.
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Step onto Plataform 93/4 Come aboard the famous train station and dream about tripping eith Harry Potter and his friends The mytical platform 9 and 3/4 with the original Hogwarts Express present and steaming on its tracks is a major attraction. Special effects Oscar winner, John Richardson, made the artificial steam possible. Visitors can step board the Hogwarts Express and step inside the carriage where Harry, Ron and Hermione first met. The train is a real locomotive, the 5972 ‘Olton Hall’, weighing 75 tonnes and was used to transport passengers up and down the country from 1937-1983. Scenes featuring the working engine - including the very last scene, in which a fully-grown Harry, Ron and Hermione wave goodbye to their own children as they head off to school - were all filmed on a soundstage at Warner Bros. Studios. The platform at the tour was created by the same crew who designed the set for the film. The windows on the steam train will feature famous scenes aboard the train projected onto them for people to watch, such as the escape of Harry’s first Chocolate Frog and the Dementor attack. The Hogwarts Express was the setting for many important events in the series; from Harry, Hermione and Ron’s first meeting in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone to the very last scene, where as adults they wave their own children off to school.
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Even if you’re not a Potter fan, this is a fascinating place to come if you love movies generally. Here you will learn so much about the artifice, ingenuity, science and craftsmanship which goes into movie production.
The Forbidden Forest Explore the amazing Dark Forest, home of the most strange creatures The latest attraction to open at the tour offering fans the opportunity to follow in the footsteps of their favourite wizard’s into the Forbidden Forest, where Harry took on Voldemort and Ron Weasley. Came face to face with a giant spider Featuring 19 life-like trees, the expansion – built by many of the crew members who worked on the original series – will delight fans with its giant entwined roots, realistic tree bark and array of characters hidden in the darkness. The Forbidden Forest, known in the films to offer shelter and protection to Hippogriffs, features a full-sized, moving model of Buckbeak, Hagrid’s beloved magical creature. For the first time, members of the public will be able to appreciate the impressive level of craftmanship involved in inserting each feather individually, and experience it up close. Further into the Forbidden Forest lurks Aragog, the acromantula, who appears first in Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets. With a leg-span of over 18 feet, the spider emerges from his lair at the push of the button, sending thunder and lightening crashing through the trees.
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The Diagon Alley Browse the Wizarding Shopping Street The Diagon Alley set brings to life the shop setting from J.K. Rowling’s legendary Harry Potter story. Warner Bros. Studio Tour says the Diagon Alley set took more than three months to build, and it took six months to create over 20,000 products to put on the shops’ shelves. Wander down the virtual street and you can peer through the dusty windows of Ollivanders where Harry’s wand chose him, shortly after he first discovered he was a wizard. Follow the cobbles and you’ll find Weasleys’ Wizard Wheezes, which features a six metre tall mannequin above the main
entrance, and the amazing medicinal world of Mr Mulpepper’s Apothecary with its fantastic collection of jars and cauldrons. The 360-degree view also allows you to check out Eeylops Owl Emporium, where Harry purchased his loyal snowy owl Hedwig. Many of the Diagon Alley set pieces were also re-dressed for use in the village of Hogsmeade for Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban.
Don`t miss Butterbeer! The Backlot Café is where you will also have the opportunity to enjoy a frothy Butterbeer; a non-alcoholic beverage reminiscent of shortbread and butterscotch, available in souvenir tankards.
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The Hogwarts Castle Explore the details of the extraordinary model of the Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry Special Effects are cool! Step on to authentic sets, discover the magic behind spellbinding special effects and explore the behind-the-scenes secrets of the Harry Potter film series. Tread the original stone floor of the iconic Hogwarts Great Hall, encounter animatronic creatures and wander down Diagon Alley.
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Step into spectacular sets including the Great Hall, Dumbledore’s Office and Diagon Alley Climb aboard the original Hogwarts Express Learn how the movies’ special effects and animatronics were put together Fly on a broomstick with the magic of computer graphics Drink some delicious Butterbeer Defy Dumbledore’s orders and retrace the footsteps of Harry, Ron and Hermione as you venture deep into the grounds of the Forbidden Forest Visit Platform 9 ¾ and climb aboard the spectacular original Hogwarts Express steam train
The model was built for the first film - Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone - and has been used for exterior shots in every film since. When all the time spent by 86 artists and crew members is added up, it took an incredible 74 years to build. Measuring 50 feet across, it has more than 3,500 fibre optic lights to simulate lantern torches and students passing through hallways. It even has miniature owls in the
Owlery and hinges on the doors. The castle, which was based on Durham Cathedral and Alnwick Castle. Bafta award-winning production designer Stuart Craig designed and built the castle with the rest of his team. He said: ‘Everything to the right of the viaduct is in fact Durham Cathedral. ‘But the profile has been changed so that there are tall, pointy spires so there’s plenty of theatrical exaggeration.
Details Where Studio Tour Drive Leavesden WD25 7LR Prices Adult £41 Children £33 Hours Mondays to Sundays 08h30 to 22h Phone 0345 084 0900 Website www.wbstudiotour.co.uk How to get Bus from Victory Station Overground Train for Euston Drive from M25 road
WATFORD
STUDIOS TOTTENHAM WEMBLEY PARLIAMENT CHELSEA
HEATHROW
CAMDEN REGENT`S PARK TOWER WATERLOO
GREENWICH
LONDON
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EXPLORE THE CITY’S DELIGHTFUL ROYAL PARKS, FROM BOATING IN HYDE PARK TO DEER-SPOTTING IN THE COUNTRYSIDE OF RICHMOND PARK.
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It’s a piece of trivia often bandied around: London is one of the greenest cities in Europe, possibly the world. Whether that’s true or not, London’s eight Royal Parks* go a great way to upping the city’s green credentials. They cover a total of 5,000 acres — but how did so much of London end up as a Royal Park? The parks were originally hunting grounds for the royals, and later became formal gardens, also for the royals, and it wasn’t until the mid1800s that the first park was opened to the general public. These vast green spaces are a breath of fresh air in a capital city that never stops, so it’s no wonder they’re one of the top things to do here. London has eight Royal Parks in total, and they’re all maintained to the same picture-perfect standard. The royal parks have been owned by the monarchy since the 15th century. Although public spaces today, they were not always so welcoming and were used primarily by the royal household in the 15th century for
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leisure pursuits such as hunting. King Henry VIII transformed St James’s Park, the oldest of the eight, from a marshland into a deer park and built St James’s Palace. His daughter Elizabeth I later staged great fetes in the park, and successors James I and Charles II are credited with transforming the grounds into more formal landscapes, which were later remodelled by John Nash. Today, the park provides a gateway to two other of London’s great palaces – Buckingham and Westminster. Despite their wide open spaces and vast expanses of grass, these green spaces are more than manicured lawns. As the sites of much needed vegetable plots during the Second World War, St James’s Park, Kensington Gardens and The Regent’s Park still contain allotments that are tended by greenfingered locals. Attractions and facilities vary throughout. Over in Bushy Park, north of Hampton Court Palace, visitors can follow heritage audio trails; in
Greenwich Park signs point the way to the site of Roman remains; and wild deer are a common sight in the national nature reserve of Richmond Park. Dotted throughout each of the eight parks are built and natural relics, ranging from fossilised trees and Anglo-Saxon burial mounds to modern memorials. Together, these restful parks make a vital contribution to life in the capital. From sunbathing and picnics in the summer, to brisk, refreshing walks in the winter, there’s always a reason to visit one of London’s parks. As well as being perfect for relaxing, London’s parks have plenty of things to do and activities to enjoy: sports events; openair theatre; live music concerts and adventure playgrounds for children, not to mention some breathtaking views. Whether you’re planning a romantic break, or a family picnic, we’ve picked out six of the best
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THE
ROYAL PARKS
CAMDEN TOWN REGENT`S PARK
HYDE PARK
GREEN PARK ST. JAMES PARK TOWER
BUCKINGHAM PALACE PARLIAMENT
The Royal Parks is a charity created in March 2017 and officially launched in July 2017 to support and manage 5,000 acres of Royal parkland across London. It looks after eight of London’s largest open spaces; Hyde, The Green, Richmond, Greenwich, St James’s, Bushy and The Regent’s Parks, and Kensington Gardens. We also manage other important open spaces in the capital including Grosvenor Square Garden, Brompton Cemetery, Victoria Tower Gardens, Canning Green and Poet’s Corner. In 2017, the charity took over the role of managing the parks from The Royal Parks Agency. The two organisations joined forces to create our charity and bring together the best of fundraising, education and park management. The parks are owned by the Crown with their responsibility resting with the Secretary of State for Digital, Culture, Media and Sport.
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RICHMOND PARK
WATERLOO
BATTERSEA
CANARY WHARF
GREENWICH PARK
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SOME FACTS TOTAL SIZE 5,000 acres (2,023ha) VISITS PER YEAR 77.7 million CYCLE RIDES PER YEAR 9.1 million DOGS WALKS PER YEAR 2.2 million FLOWERS Half million TREES 170,000 ROSES 100,000
TYPES OF FLOWERS 2,000 LAKES AND PONDS 21 FOOTBALL PITCHES 16 TENNIS COURTS 28 CHILDREN`S PLAY AREAS 13 CRICKET PITCHES 12 ARCHEOLOGICAL SITES 3
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SAINT JAMES PARK Enjoy moments of calm and pleasure just few meters from Buckingham Palace and admire its beauties and nice pelicans Whether you’re a photographer or an animal lover, or even if you’re just looking for a peaceful walk in London surrounded by nature, St. James’s Park offers a little something for everyone. And although it may not have Hyde Park’s Kensington Palace or the St. Regent’s Zoo, St. James’s Park remains to be one of the most popular parks in London – not to mention that it’s the oldest of the Royal Parks in London too. The area where St. James’s Park lies today was actually once the site of a lepers hospital for women, which was dedicated to James The Less (hence the name). Henry VIII bought the land from Eton College in 1532, and later built St. James’s Palace before transforming the land into his own personal deer-hunting and duck-shooting ground. King James I even introduced various exotic animals to the park in 1603, such as crocodiles and even an elephant and a camel, and ordered the park to be landscaped. But it is thanks to Charles II that the park’s
original marsh was transformed into a long narrow canal which can still be seen today. In the 17th century Charles II redesigned the park (with the help of the famous French landscaper Andre Mollet) to make it appear more like the gardens of Versailles in France. Charles II was also the first monarch to allow St. James’s Park to be open to the public, and he used the land to entertain both his guests and mistresses during his reign. The biggest transformation of St. James’s Park occurred in 1828, when architect John Nash redesigned the land with trees, lawns and gardens under the orders of George IV. Nash was responsible for transforming the original canal into a “naturally-shaped” lake, and he also designed the park’s picturesque avenues and winding pathways as well. St. James’ Park boasts 23 hectares (or 57 acres), and is conveniently located near Buckingham Palace, The Mall, St. James’s Palace, Horse Guards and the Birdcage Walk (some of which are in plain view when walking around the park). Not only does St. James’s Park have
stunning flowerbeds and wide open green spaces, it’s also home to 15 different species of birds, with the most famous being the resident colony of pelicans (which were initially given as a gift from a Russian ambassador in 1664 to Charles II). Some of the many other animals you can find in the park include squirrels, water birds, ducks, geese, swans, woodpeckers, owls and much more. The Blue Bridge (which is located above the lake) is famous in its own right, as has been featured in many movies throughout its history. While standing on the bridge you can enjoy stunning views of Buckingham Palace, and if you look east you will see the Swire fountain, the Horse Guards Parade (with the Horse Guards building) and Whitehall Court. There are also two islands (West Island and Duck Island) within St. James’s Park, and on the south side of Duck Island you will see a Tiffany fountain perched on a Pelican Rock, with picturesque views of the London Eye and Big Ben in the distance.
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The verdant and appealing St. James Park offers beautiful views and moments of relax in the middle of the frantic traffic nearby. The majestic Admiralty Arch is the gateway to the Mall, which leads to the Buckingham Palace and goes along the Park.
There are two famous monuments in St. James’s Park as well, one of which commemorates the soldiers of the Guards regiments who perished during the World Wars. To the north you will see the Royal Artillery South Africa Memorial which was built to commemorate the Royal artillery who died during the Boen Wars. If you plan on visiting St. James’s Park with your family, there is a children’s playground with an enormous sand pit and another smaller, separate sand area. There are also swings, a slide, a climbing frame, a see-saw, a refreshment stand, and a children’s toilet.
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GREEN PARK Explore the cute and tiny park and enjoy moments of peace and serenity The green, triangle-shaped expanse of leafy land just beyond the Ritz is Green Park, the smallest of the eight Royal parks, it is next to Buckingham Palace and adjacent to St James’s Park, but very different in character. Covering 19 hectares (47 acres), it is more peaceful, with mature trees and grassland. A space for sunbathing and sitting, it is more peaceful and popular for resting and picnics. Unlike Regent’s Park and Hyde Park in particular, there are no formal flowerbeds; legend has it that this was Charles II’s wife discovered he had picked a flower and handed it to another lady in the park, so she ordered every single flower in the park to be pulled up, and no more planted. The Diana Memorial walk passes through Green Park. The park is bordered by Constitution Hill and Piccadilly, and walking through the park will also bring you to Duke of Wellington place, location of the Wellington Arch, and Wellington’s home, Apsley House nearby (or, ‘Number One, London’, as it was popularly known at the time).
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The colorful park is a natural magnet for Londoners and tourists. The golden colors of Autumn across the park is a guarantee of magical and unforgetable moments. The solemn and grandious Wellington Arch conducts the visitant from Green Park to Hyde Park.
HYDE PARK Set right in the heart of London, Hyde Park offers both worldclass events and concerts together with plenty of quiet places to relax and unwind.
The Hyde Park is one of the greatest city parks in London and in the world. Covering 142 hectares (350 acres) and with over 4,000 trees, a large lake, a meadow and ornamental flower gardens, there’s a good chance you’ll forget you are right in the centre of London. The land was appropriated in 1536 from the monks of Westminster Abbey by Henry VIII for hunting deer and, despite opening to the public in the early 1600s, was only frequented by the upper echelons of society. London’s oldest boating lake, The Serpentine, is at the bottom of Hyde Park. It’s not especially beautiful but is home to ducks, coots, swans and tufty-headed grebes, and is also of great historic interest. It was a hotspot for mass demonstrations in the nineteenth century and remains so today. The legalisation of public assembly in the
park led to the establishment of Speakers’ Corner in 1872 (close to Marble Arch tube), where political and religious ranters – sane and otherwise – still have the floor. The park perimeter is popular with skaters, as well as with bike riders and horse riders. If you’re exploring on foot and the vast expanses defeat you, look out for the Liberty Drives (May-Oct). Driven by volunteers (there’s no fare, but offer a donation if you can), these electric buggies pick up groups of sightseers and ferry them around. The Joy of Life fountain, next to Aldford Street North Gate, alongside Park Lane, is a popular spot for splashing around in when the weather heats up. Along with the smaller St. James’s and Green parks to the east, the 350-acre Hyde Park started as Henry VIII’s hunting grounds. Along its south side runs Rotten Row, once
Henry’s royal path to the hunt—the name is a corruption ofRoute du Roi (route of the king). It’s still used by the Household Cavalry, who live at the Hyde Park Barracks—a highrise and a low, ugly red block, now up for sale—to the left. You can see the Guardsmen in full regalia leaving on horseback for guard duty at Buckingham Palace at about 10:30 (or come at noon when they return). Hyde Park is wonderful for strolling, cycling, or just relaxing by the Serpentine, the long body of water near its southern border. Although Kensington Gardens is not officially part of Hyde Park, it is only separated by the Serpentine Lake and offers visitors another 275 acres of relaxing park land to explore on the south side andis the site of the Diana Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain, which opened in 2003 and is a good spot to refuel at a café. This is a
Once inside the park you can totally forget the busy streets of the city and the five story houses everywhere. No traffic jam. No pollution. No people conversation. Only nature and peace.
unique water feature created to represent Diana’s life. Over 1 million people a year visit this memorial and enjoy its tranquil setting. On Sunday, close to Marble Arch you’ll find the uniquely British tribute to free speech, Speakers’ Corner. Though not what it was in the days before people could use the Internet to vent their spleen, it still offers a unique assortment of passionate, if occasionally irrational, advocates literally getting up on soapboxes. Hyde Park always has something for everyone. You can enjoy swimming, boating, cycling and skating. There are pitches for team games, tennis courts, tracks for horse riding and a spectacular children’s playground. The Park has two lakeside restaurants which are licensed and serve everything from a three-course meal to a quick cup of
coffee. Hyde Park is home to a number of fascinating buildings and monuments, such as The Serpentine Bridge, the Joy of Life fountain and the famous Archiles statue. And with the Diana Memorial Fountain and open air events throughout the year, there’s always something to see and do. If you’re out and about on Sunday, head to Speaker’s Corner to hear London’s most vocal orators share their opinions with the world. Everyone knows about Hyde Park, having seen it in photos and postcards, or stepped within its lush territory. But how many have walked from end to end? Seen the Kensington Palace and Gardens, Albert Memorial, Serpentine Lake, Gallery & Café? There are tennis courts, manicured gardens, weed-ridden fields, fountains, and wild birds to be seen. Not mention the happiest dogs on the
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planet (I’d like to be reincarnated as one). In addition to providing still waters and leafy trees for lazy afternoons, Hyde Park offers a multitude of activities within its borders. Some favorite activities are: 1. Soak up the Serpentine: Watch geese and other birds peck around the perimeter of the Serpentine Lake. Grab lunch, a cup of coffee or a glass of wine at the Serpentine Café, recently renovated and now a lovely place to relax for a while. 2. Swimming & Boating: during the spring and summer, you can rent paddle boats for lazy boating around the Serpentine. There’s also a lido and paddling pool where you can take a swim, or even train for a triathlon (via the Serpentine Swimming Club). 3. Rent one of the green and white striped folding chairs that are scattered throughout the Park. For a pound or two, you’ll have your own personal sanctuary for a few hours, or longer, if you’d like.
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4. Kensington Gardens & Palace: visit the Palace where Princess Diana lived and nearby memorials to the late Princess. The Serpentine Art Gallery, renowned for its modern and contemporary exhibitions, is also located within Kensington Gardens. Try to end your tour at the northwest corner of the Gardens, where you can either explore Notting Hill or stroll back towards Kensington via Kensington Church Street. 5. Forgo the pricey external tea options (Mandarin Oriental, for one) for the Orangery, a more affordable, better located option within Hyde Park. The Orangery is located very close to the entrance to Kensington Palace. 6. Speaker’s Corner: this mega-free speech zone was originally created in 1872 and persists today. Head to Speaker’s Corner (northeast portion of Hyde Park) on Sunday mornings for soap-box theatrics that often inspire audience participation.
7. Hyde Park Sports: reserve a tennis court for a match with a friend, sign up for a Horseback riding lesson through the park, or get a group together for an impromptu game of touch football. London’s new bicycle hire scheme means that London residents have greater access than ever before to the use of public bikes. Several stations are located within Hyde Park. 8. Festivals & Concerts: keep your eyes peeled for concerts in Hyde Park, and other large-scale events. Every fall/winter, Hyde Park hosts a Christmas Wonderland, which is wonderfully tacky. 9. Use the Park when negotiating transport. Bus and underground routes circumvent the Park, leaving a gaping hole in London transport, but it’s sometimes worth traversing the park to arrive at a specific destination. 10. Get fit by jogging the perimeter of Hyde Park/Kensington Gardens.
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Henry Moore`s The Arch The Arch is a six-metre high Roman travertine sculpture positioned on the north bank of the Long Water. It was presented by the artist Henry Moore to the nation for siting in Kensington Gardens in 1980 - two years after his eightieth-birthday exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery, London. The Arch is made from seven travertine stones weighing a total of 37 tonnes. The stones were sourced from a quarry in northern Italy.
Changing The Queen’s Life Guard Horse Guards Parade training
Prince Albert Memorial, Resplendent in its over-the-top Victorian Gothic revival style
‘The Queen’s Life Guard’, mounted on immaculately groomed horses with breastplates shinning in the sun, present a stirring sight as they ride through the streets of London to Change the Guard on Horse Guards Parade. The Queen’s Life Guard is normally provided by men of the Household Cavalry Mounted Regiment which consists of a Squadron of The Life Guards, who wear red tunics and white plumed helmets, and a Squadron of The Blues and Royals with blue tunics and red plumed helmets.
This 180ft Victorian bronze gilt statue in Kensington Gardens is a tribute to Queen Victoria’s husband, Prince Albert, and was erected following his death through typhoid at the age of 42. The Albert Memorial accurately captures a royal love story that, like the statue, has stood the test of time. The Queen’s grief, and that of her public, was directed at the monument which reflected both the Prince’s various public passions and Victorian achievements of the time. Designed by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1872 this tribute to the Prince
Life Guards have stood guard at Horse Guards, the official entrance to St James and Buckingham Palace, since the Restoration of King Charles II in 1660. A ‘Long Guard’ is mounted when the Queen is in residence, at Buckingham Palace, the Long Guard is made up of an Officer, a Corporal Major, who carries the Standard, two Non-Commissioned Officers, a Trumpeter and ten Troopers. A ‘Short Guard’ is mounted when the Queen is not in residence at Buckingham Palace.
Consort was unveiled by Queen Victoria in 1876. Each pillar took eight men about 20 weeks to finish and polish, and the Albert Memorial was noted at the time of its completion as being one of the most costly works in granite of the period. Now a beacon, shimmering in bronze gilt, the highly ostentatious, highVictorian gothic statue presides over Kensington Gardens, facing the Royal Albert Hall another architectural tribute to the royal consort.
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The Serpentine Lake The immense lake is one of the best places in the charming Hyde Park to catch a break and relax
One of the most popular areas of the world-famous Hyde Park, Serpentine Lake offers a real alternative to the busy streets of the capital. Fed by a pure underground spring, and set in the heart of London’s gorgeous Hyde Park, it is one of the most pleasant places to experience summer in London. The lake was commissioned by Queen Caroline, wife to George II, dates back to 1730 and was a key centrepiece for The Great Exhibition of 1851. The
Serpentine Lake gets its name from its curved shape which snakes around to the west of Hyde Park. Measuring 40 acres, the lake offers a number of activities, as well as being close to plenty of cafes – ideal for those who want to just relax and watch the water. One of the most enjoyable pastimes for individuals planning a visit to the Serpentine Lake is invariably the opportunity to get on the water itself. Visitors are able to hire their own boat for up
six persons and enjoy a nice trip on the tranquil lake waters. With 110 pedalos and rowboats, and a fantastic swimming area there are few better places to forget the bustle and buzz of the big city and float away and relax. It’s underground spring which makes it ideal for swimming and has a lido area cornered off for just such activity. It’s a superb feature which divides one of London’s largest Royal Park’s in two. There’s also a regular Running Club which
makes use of the park’s tracks. It’s a great spot to take time out from the city’s bustle and has two cafes where you can take respite: the Serpentine Bar & Kitchen to the east and The Lido Cafe to the south, next to the Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain. The Serpentine was used for the swimming leg of the triathlon at the London 2012 Olympics. The traditional Peter Pan Christmas Day Race has been held by the club every year since 1864.
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The Italian Garden The gardens are a masterpiece of beauty and elegance. A perfect spot for enjoy a romantic moment
The Italian Renaissance Garden was a style of garden which became popular in the 15th century and tried to reflect the restoration ideals of order and beauty. After they began cropping up in villas around Florence and Rome, the style became the go to for the aristocracy and fashionable home owners. It incorporated fountains, geometric shapes and stoned walls around tailored green areas. Leon Battista Alberti was the first person to write about Italian Gardens, believing a villa should be a piece of art and a space for leisure and relaxation.
The Italian Garden in Hyde Park is a 150 year old space which incorporates many of the ideals set out by Alberti. Created by Prince Albert for his wife, Queen Victoria the Italian Garden’s design was inspired by Osborne House on The Isle of Wight. Prince Albert was a keen gardener and took charge of the gardens at Osborne House. This was one of the houses at which the royal family spent their holidays. Albert decided to introduce an Italian Garden with large raised terraces, fountains, urns and new geometric flower beds. After the first one was created in the Isle of Wight,
the Kensington Gardens Italian Garden was built around 1860. Designed by James Pennethorne, many of the Osborne garden’s notable features could be found in the Kensington Garden version. The garden itself is situated near the Serpentine Lake which can be found between Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens. This is an area where people can feed the lakes many ducks, swans and geese as well as use rowing boats. The garden itself adds a great figurehead to this beautiful area. The beautiful stonemasonry had carved into it eight life-sized
swan heads and necks. A display of aquatic plants around the fountains basin was introduced by the Royal Parks’ ecology and landscape architecture teams so as to resemble what the fountain may have originally looked like. This idea of recapturing the Victorian essence of the garden was furthered by the use of vintage postcards which showed how the basins original planting looked. Native water lilies, yellow flag iris, flowering rush and purple loosestrife are rooted in cages just below the water. There is also a new walkway for birdlife to safely enter and exit the basin.
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REGENT`S PARK AND PRIMROSE HILL Explore the largest grass area for sports in Central London
The most elaborate and formal of London’s many parks, Regent’s Park is one of the capital’s loveliest green spaces. Among its many attractions are London Zoo, Regent’s Canal, an ornamental lake, and sports pitches where locals meet to play football, rugby and volleyball. Queen Mary’s Gardens, towards the south of the park, are particularly pretty, especially in June when the roses are in bloom. Performances take place here in an open-air theatre during summer. Out of all the six royal parks in London, Hyde Park usually takes the top prize. But with so many different attractions to see and activities to do, The Regent’s Park certainly gives Hyde Park a run for its money. While
Hyde Park usually takes the top prize out of all the six royal parks in London, The Regent’s Park certainly gives it a run for its money. The 395-acre park was first acquired by Henry VIII, and the area was used mostly as a hunting park up until 1649 (when it was known as Marylebone Park). In 1811, the future King George IV hired John Nash (the architect behind Buckingham Palace) to redesign the area, and villas were built in the park for the many friends of the royal family. The park remained closed to the public until the official opening of Queen Mary’s Gardens and the Inner Circle in the 1930s, and it’s been a popular tourist destination in London ever since.
Today The Regent’s Park offers a ton of different outdoor activities for tourists and locals, and its sports facilities alone cover nearly 100 acres (which makes it the largest outdoor sports area in all of central London). Besides venturing to the nearby Primrose Hill to enjoy views of the London skyline, or checking out the gorillas and lions at the ZSL London Zoo (at the northeastern section of the park), there’s a wealth of other tourist attractions to discover both in and around The Regent’s Park. A must-do for any tourist in London would be to watch a performance at The Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre (located near the southern tip of the park). Only four annual productions are held at the theatre
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The charmful Boating Lake at the left and Primrose Hill above are the hotspots
Londoners enjoying peaceful and relaxing moments under the sun
between May and September, so if you happen to be visiting the park during these months, visit the theatre’s official website to book your tickets. Another prime attraction located in The Regent’s Park would be The Hub, which is favoured by both tourists and locals alike. Here visitors can enjoy games of football, tennis, softball, rugby and even cricket, and there’s also a nearby lake with boats and pedalos for hire. If you have some time, try and snap a photo of the bandstand located on Holme Green (between the Inner Circle and the Boating Lake) which was moved from Richmond Park during the 1970s. Near York Bridge close to the Inner Circle, you will see the Grade-II listed Jubilee Gates
The pitoresque Chinese restaurant Feng Shang Princess is very popular
which were installed to commemorate the Silver Jubilee of King George V in 1935. The centrepiece over the centre gate features a crown with the letters “GR” underneath, as well as the date “6th May 1935.” Nature lovers will appreciate the cluster of gardens scattered all throughout the park, with one of the most raved-about being The St. John’s Lodge Gardens. The gardens were designed in 1889 by Robert Weir Schultz for the nearby St. John’s Lodge (which is a private residence owned by the Sultan of Brunei). You can find the gardens through a small gate along the Inner Circle, and from there you’ll be able to see some of the many impressive sculptures and statues
throughout the gardens. (Make sure you take a selfie next to the Nymph statue at the center!) Other impressive gardens located in the park include The Avenue Gardens (located near The Broad Walk), which are definitely worth taking a picture of - especially the massive circular stone bowl called the Griffin Tazza (or Lion Vase). Also try and check out The Regent’s Park Allotment Garden (on the corner of the Inner Circle and Chester Road), which is used primarily for gardening purposes and organic food-growing techniques.
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GREENWICH PARK Discover the park used by the Royals and what is there This is one of London’s loveliest expanses of green, with a rose garden, picturesque walks, Anglo-Saxon tumuli and astonishing views from the crown of the hill near the Royal Observatory towards Canary Wharf – the financial district across the Thames. Covering 74 hectares, it’s the oldest enclosed royal park and is partly the work of André Le Nôtre, the landscape architect who designed the palace gardens of Versailles. The park contains a lovely teahouse near the Royal Observatory, a cafe behind the National Maritime Museum, a deer park, tennis courts in the southwest and a boating lake at the Queen’s House end. There’s also the Peter Harrison Planetarium, the Camera Obscura and Ranger’s House. The park is
also full of chestnut trees – head there in October and pick the nuts from the ground. Greenwich Park is located near to the River Thames in South East London. The park stretches from Blackheath in the north to the river in the south covering over 180 acres. It offers thousands of visitors stunning views and places of historical interest, leisure activities, nature and a wide range of horticulture. The park, one of eight Royal Parks, has been open to the public for over one hundred years and has been used by the Romans, royalty and leading scientists. The layout of the park still follows the original plans from the 17th century and was
further landscaped in the 18th century. You can still see evidence of royalty within the park today. Apart from the stunning views of the Queen’s House and The Royal Observatory you also have small remains of Montague House and Queen Caroline’s Bath House. Queen Caroline, formerly Princess of Wales, lived at Montague House with her husband King George IV between 1801 and 1813. The bath house would have been semi-attached to Montague House and was quite fashionable for Georgian times. Queen Elizabeth’s Oak Tree can also be found within the park. This ancient hollow tree was planted around the 12th Century and has historic links with Elizabeth I.
Stand on the world’s Prime Meridian, take an aweinspiring journey through space and discover the home of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT)
Royal Observatory
Cutty Sark
Maritime Museum
Stand at the centre of world time. Discover the past, present and future wonders of astronomy at the centre of time. Take an amazing journey through the home of British astronomy, Greenwich Mean Time and the Prime Meridian of the World. Explore how great scientists first mapped the seas and the stars, stand astride two hemispheres on the Prime Meridian Line, see pioneering inventions and the UK’s largest refracting telescope, touch a 4.5 billion year-old asteroid.
Discover what life was like on board the legendary sailing ship Cutty Sark, the world’s sole surviving tea clipper, and fastest ship of her time - now an award-winning visitor attraction. Built in 1869 to carry tea back from China, Cutty Sark visited nearly every major port in the world and gained fame for her record-breaking passages. Delve into the adventures of this iconic ship and her crew in an immersive experience that brings her fascinating history to life.
The National Maritime Museum is the largest museum of its kind in the world, filled with stories of exploration and human endeavour. Discover stories about Britain’s encounter with the world at sea, learn about the life of great British hero Admiral Horatio Nelson and the Royal Navy, and see the uniform he wore when he was fatally wounded at the Battle of Trafalgar. On-site eateries include Neptune Café, our Museum Café and the elegant Brasserie.
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RICHMOND PARK National Nature Reserve, London’s largest Site of Special Scientific Interest and a European Special Area of Conservation At almost 1000 hectares (the largest urban parkland in Europe), this park offers everything from formal gardens and ancient oaks to unsurpassed views of central London 12 miles away. It’s easy to flee the several roads slicing up the rambling wilderness, making the park perfect for a quiet walk or a picnic with the kids, even in summer when Richmond’s riverside heaves. Coming from Richmond, it’s easiest to enter via Richmond Gate or from Petersham Rd. Herds of more than 600 red and fallow deer basking under the trees are part of its magic, but they can be less than docile in rutting season (September and October) and when the does bear young (May to July), so keep your distance (over 50m) during these
times. Birdwatchers will love the diverse habitats, from neat gardens to woodland and assorted ponds. Floral fans should visit Isabella Plantation, a stunning 16-hectare woodland garden created after WWII, in April and May when the rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias bloom. The Park has changed little over the centuries and although it is surrounded by human habitation, the varied landscape of hills, woodland gardens and grasslands set among ancient trees abounds in wild life. Richmond Park has been designated as a site of special scientific interest and a National Nature Reserve. The royal connections to this park probably go back further than any of the others, beginning
with Edward (1272-1307), when the area was known as the Manor of Sheen. The name was changed to Richmond during Henry VII’s reign. Set in a beautiful 13-hectare garden and affording great views of the city from the back terrace, Pembroke Lodge was the childhood home of Bertrand Russell. The Georgian tea rooms can garnish your visit with warm scones and clotted cream from 9am to 5.30pm. The pastoral vista from Richmond Hill has inspired painters and poets for centuries and still beguiles. It’s the only view (which includes St Paul’s Cathedral 10 miles away) in the country to be protected by an act of Parliament.
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Escape to the great outdoors in Richmond Park with its wide open spaces, grasslands and deer herds, just a stone’s throw from central London
THE ICONIC PARKS These are of course a must see. You probably will end up here whether or not you initially intended too as there are often events and endless activities held here. When there’s a sunny day, this park comes alive with sunbathers, people having picnics, smiles and laughter. It’s a lovely sight. During spring all the migratory birds can be seen along the lakes edge looking for a free meal.
WHERE EAGLES DARE DISCOVER ONE OF THE BEST COLLECTIONS OF WAR AIR PLANES
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Above, overview from the first pavillion mezanin: an introductory collection of airplanes of different ages that leaves the visitor amazed. On the right, a Vulcan is placed in the entrance of the museum
The ‘First World War in the Air’ is a permanent exhibition that will enable visitors to discover and explore the unique and often overlooked role of air power during the First World War through the incredible stories of the men and women who served and protected our nation. Set in a Grade II listed building, which was part of one of the factories where aircraft were constructed for the First World War; the exhibition uses these authentic surroundings and the RAF Museum’s world-class collection of aircraft, documents, film and photographs to reveal how aviation changed the character of war forever. Described as the ‘Birthplace of Aerial Power’, the story of air power at Hendon began in 1862 when Henry Coxwell took a short flight in a balloon to a field near Mill Hill. In 1910, the site on which the
RAF Museum is located was purchased by The London Aerodrome Company, then sold to aviation pioneer Claude Grahame-White in 1911. GrahameWhite was a noted name in the early development of British aviation and his Grahame-White Aviation Company began building aircraft in 1910. During the First World War Hendon played an important role in the development of air power and pilots for both the Royal Naval Air Service and Royal Flying Corps trained at the site. In just ten years, driven by the requirements of the conflict, aviation technology developed from being barely able to cross the English Channel in 1909 to crossing the Atlantic in 1919. Exhibits include iconic aircraft such as the Sopwith Camel, the Fokker D VII and an example of an aircraft that was built in the factory at Colindale – the
Avro 504. The exhibition’s narrative-led design is rich with interactivity, dramatic media and diverse collections. The thrilling story of the evolution of flight, from the early days of experimentation to full-force fighting machines, is underpinned by stories of people ‘on the ground’. The exhibition also explores the extraordinary expansion of Britain’s air services, the Royal Flying Corps and Royal Naval Air Service, from 1,800 men in 1914 to a Royal Air Force of 290,000 men and women at the end of the war in 1918.
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Bandits at 8 o’clock move in behind us. Ten ME-109’s out of the sun Ascending and turning out spitfires to face them. Heading straight for them I press my guns Aces High, Iron Maiden On top, another angle of the first pavillion with the feared P51 Mustang in a highlight and a couple of some flying machines from the early ages. At the left, a Me109Be, the daunting German fighter that scared the British air. Below, the impressive Gr7 Harrier, first fighter to departure as a helicopter
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On the top, the famous B17 Flying Fortress, one of the emblematic bombers of the WWII and responsible to flat many German cities and towns. Above on right, the important but very respected American bomber M26 Marauder. On the left, the European Panavia Tornado, UK`s primary ground attack platform and important reconnaissance plane
THE BOMBERS HALL Explore the impressive and scaring section of the bombers from all ages The Bomber Hall exhibition placed in the Hangar 5 follows the development of the bomber from its first appearance in World War One to the highly sophisticated machines of today. The visitor can also find out about the achievements of RAF Bomber Command and the U.S. Army Air Forces in World War Two. This hall is, in part, a memorial to the 131,000 young men who died during the combined bombing offensive - after the defeats in Europe, the only way the Allies could
carry the fight back to Hitler’s Germany. In World War One, the bomber changed the face of conflict forever. For the first time, people far behind the battle lines For the first time, people far behind the battle lines were under threat from the enemy. In time, the bomber was being used to devastate enormous areas - today the precision of modern weapons helps to minimise civilian loss of life. The star of the collection is a huge Vulcan B2 and counts also a Moskito, a Stuka, a Bleheim and more.
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On the top, the emblematic Sopwith Camel. On the left, a model RE 8. At the center, some recruiting posters and a Vickers FB5 bomber
FIRST WORLD WAR IN THE AIR The impressive display tells a story of human bravery and rapid technological innovation via aircraft and media It is a permanent exhibition that will enable visitors to discover and explore the unique and often overlooked role of air power during the First World War through the incredible stories of the men and women who served and protected our nation. Set in a Grade II listed building, which was part of one of the factories where aircraft were constructed for the First World War; the exhibition uses these authentic surroundings and the RAF Museum’s world-class collection
of aircraft, documents, film and photographs to reveal how aviation changed the character of war forever. During the First World War Hendon played an important role in the development of air power and pilots for both the Royal Naval Air Service and Royal Flying Corps trained at the site. Exhibits include iconic aircraft such as the Sopwith Camel, the Fokker D VII and an example of an aircraft that was built in the factory at Colindale – the Avro 504. The exhibition’s narrative-led
design is rich with interactivity, dramatic media and diverse collections. The thrilling story of the evolution of flight, from the early days of experimentation to full-force fighting machines, is underpinned by stories of people ‘on the ground’. The exhibition also explores the extraordinary expansion of Britain’s air services, the Royal Flying Corps and Royal Naval Air Service, from 1,800 men in 1914 to a Royal Air Force of 290,000 men and women at the end of the war in 1918.
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On the top and above, some Stukas, Me109 and other planes that fought the Battle.
THE BATTLE OF BRITAN HALL Feel the thrill of the decisive days of Britain`s fate across several genuine and rare British and German aircraft Starting with a film on the Battle of Britain the name given to the air war between Britain and Germany during the II world war, the hall exhibits various phases of the battle between Britain against the mighty German Luftwaffe. Hear Sir Winston Churchill’s famous ‘Battle of Britain’ speech and follow the story of the heroic and deadly dangerous role played by the RAF in the pivotal battle for the skies over
Britain. A popular feature in the Hall is ‘Our Finest hour’, a multi-media display bringing to life the dangerous life of a fighter pilot during the war. The hall displays not only British aircraft, but German planes as well, plus examples of the V-1 Flying Bomb, and V-2 Rocket. There are quite a few interactive displays. I found a display of an announcement for children on how to prepare for an attack, what to pack and
so on the most touching of all. There is a statue in honour of Air Chief Marshal Keith Park who was instrumental in winning the battle against Germany although there is a debate surrounding who really won the battle, the British or Germans. Further down the hall is a hangar displaying aircrafts used in the Battle of Britain, what and when they were used for and so on. The size of some of the cockpits made me squint.
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On the top, the most famous British aircrafts, the Spitifire and the Hurricane, symbol of the Battle of Britain and the resistance to the Germans
Other fascinating hangars are the Historic Hangars, listed buildings that were part of the old Hendon Aerodrome, the cradle of British aviation. They have been linked together by a new building that was created to house part of the Museum’s collection of fighter aircraft. This is dedicated to Sir Sidney Camm, the designer of the Hawker Typhoon that sits in pride of place. The Historic Hangars contain five separate
exhibitions each telling a different story about the RAF and its aviation history. Whirling Rotors Helicopters and Rotary Winged Aircraft Collection. The earliest rotary winged aircraft were autogiros. The RAF first used these to check the new radar sets that were used to defend this country during World War Two. Helicopters, the most versatile of all flying machines, were developed later. Many people owe their
Special Tips • • • • • • • • • •
Visit all Hangars Check the more than 100 airplanes and other equipments Visit The Aeronauts Interactive Centre Check the Marine Craft Collection Check Exhibitons Prince Mary`s RAF Nurse Service First World War in Air Virtual Tours Visit Grahame White Wtach Office Watch films on 4D Theatre like The Re Arrows and Dog Fight - Red Baron Don`t miss the Spitifire Experience, sitting in the cockpit of a real Spitifire - £10 per person
lives to the helicopter’s unique ability to hover and to take off and land in very small spaces. This exhibition includes an early autogiro and a prototype of the most modern helicopter in the UK. Fighter Aircraft Collection Fighters were defensive aircraft used to protect friendly machines from attack by the enemy. Often their roles are more complicated and their abilities to attack swiftly and defend.
Details Where Grahame Park Way, Colindale, NW9 5ll Prices Free Hours Mondays to Sundays 10h to 18h Phone 020 82052266 Website www.rafmuseum.orh.uk How to get Northern Line - Northbound
RAF MUSEUM
BRENT CROSS BRENT PARK WEMBLEY
ALEXANDRA PALACE TOTTENHAM CAMDEN REGENT`S PARK PARLIAMENT TOWER
CHELSEA HEATHROW
WATERLOO
GREENWICH
LONDON
BLUES
THE PROUD OF WEST LONDON VISIT THE ICONIC STAMFORD BRIDGE STADIUM, HOME OF GLORIES AND DREAMS OF AN ENGLISH GIANT
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The Chelsea Football Club has become a household name all around the world; so much so that even non-football fans have probably heard of Chelsea FC at some point or another. So if you want to treat yourself to at least one stadium tour during your visit to London, then make it The Chelsea Stadium Tour. Chelsea FC has been around since 1905, and has been based at the Stamford Bridge Stadium since its formation. The stadium itself was constructed in 1877 (which makes it one of the oldest football grounds in the world), and has a seating capacity of 41,663. Stamford Bridge is located on the border of the well-off Chelsea and Fulham areas, a fancy and elegant
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zone of London. It is one of the most expensive and posh addresses of the city, not far from the Thames and close to the Brompton Cemetery. While somewhat quieter than the Chelsea area north-east of the stadium, there are some coffee shops, restaurants, and pubs near the stadium, mainly on Fulham Road and King’s Road a little further south. A fan should walk along the exclusive Fulham Road where the main entrance of the stadium is, passing through a collection of fine houses and nice pubs. You can feel the weight of the wealth everywhere. The tour starts in the entrance room of the Museum. To arrive there, the fan
walk over a way decorated with many distinguished panels telling a little bit the club`s history and its moments of glory in pictures. After showing the tickets and waiting for the guide, the group of fans is conducted to one of the gates, entering the stadium at the Matthew Harding Stand. The vision is impressive. An immaculate and really well treated grass carpet surrounded by a wall of stands and chairs. Because the stadium being built in different moments, one can observe the different styles of the stands. You can feel the pressure the supporters make to the Chelsea`s opponents and the power they give to their players. After few moments of explanation and pictures, the guide takes the group to
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Different sections of the Stadium. The Shed Stand and part of the West at left and the East stand at right. Above, the mytical Shed Stand
the next stand, the East Stand, the most iconic and where the VIP boxes are located. The tour then continues to the press room, situated under the same stand. There, we learn more about the club, the manager and what happens during the matches. The next step is visiting the changing room, where the players of both sides and also the referee trio prepare themselves before and after the game. You can observe many t-shirts there, indicating where each player sits. There is the massage room near and also the bath tubs for the after game. Everything is well organized and looks really nice. After visiting the changing room, the
guide conducts the group to through the Player`s tunnel and to step just aside the pitch, where they can observe the stadium in a different and more warmer perspective. It is the moment of more pictures and smiles. Next stop, is the museum passing through the mystical Shed Stand, the most vocal and energetic place where the most passionate fans used to gather and sing. The original section was built in 1930 and demolished in 1994 according the safety measures provided by the Taylor Report, governmental procedure taken after the Hillsborough Stadium disaster. The museum houses a fine and vast
collection of memorabilia and trophies. The fan will see many historic uniforms used across the years in important matches. All major trophies like the Premier League ones and the most relevant of all, the European Champions League, won in 2012, are displayed with care and much information. There are some models of Stamford Bridge telling how it evolved across the history and much more. The tour finishes in the club`s mega store where the visitor can buy kits, boots, books and much more. Stamford Bridge`s tour is a must for every football fan. It tells a lot about the English football, its people and its culture.
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STAMFORD BRIDGE`S HISTORY Stamford Bridge officially opened on the 28th of April 1877, but for the next 28 years mainly served as an athletics venue. The owners, however, wanted a stadium that could host professional football, and hired architect Archibald Leitch to design a new stadium. Stamford Bridge got almost completely rebuilt in 1905, and was subsequently offered to Fulham FC. Fulham turned the offer down though, and newly formed Chelsea FC moved in instead. Stamford Bridge at that time consisted of one covered seating stand and a vast open bowl of terraces covering the other three sides. An estimated 100,000 people could fit into the stadium. Few changes were made until 1930, when new terraces were built at the Shed End, and, nine years later, when a small seating stand was built at the North End. Stamford Bridge recorded its highest attendance in 1935 during a match against Arsenal when a total of 82,905 fans attended the match. In 1965, the terraces of the West Stand were replaced by a new covered seating stand. Redevelopments continued in the mid 1970s when the old main stand was demolished and replaced by the new East Stand. The construction of the new East Stand turned out to have such an effect on Chelsea’s finances though, that the club was almost forced into bankruptcy. The Stamford Bridge site was sold to property developers in order to pay off some debts, which almost resulted in Chelsea being evicted and forced
to ground share with Fulham or QPR. The club finally won back ownership in 1992, however no changes were made in the years in between. In the meantime, the Taylor report had been published and Stamford Bridge was in urgent need for redevelopment. Works started in 1994 with the demolition of the North terraces, which were replaced with a new seating stand. Soon after, the Shed End terraces suffered the same fate. Reconstruction of the West Stand started in 1997 and was, with some delays, completed in 2001. At the same time the East Stand had undergone an extensive refurbishment. Despite all of this, Stamford Bridge is still a ground with limitations in terms of capacity and facilities, and in the last decade Chelsea have therefore sought to either expand Stamford Bridge or build a new stadium altogether. Expansion of the current ground turned out to be too complicated with the stadium being hemmed in by housing, and initially the club therefore explored different sites in West London for the construction of a new stadium, most notably the site of the Battersea Power Station, though their bid for the site failed in 2012. The club currently hope to move into their new home before the start of the 202122 season. During the works, they would have to play their home matches elsewhere. Both Wembley Stadium and Twickenham have been named as possible options.
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Above, some special kits and the European Champions League, won in 2012, displayed at the Museum.
FA Cups and Premier League trophies
Special Tips • • • •
• •
The tours takes about one hour Explore the majestic construction of the stadium Take pictures of everything - it worht it Take a picture to show to your friends sitting in the players dressing room or as Chelsea`s manager in the press room table Explore the vast collection of silverware and dream about the glory in the museum Take advantage of the deals in the mega store - you can buy kits and boots and also every sort of memorabilia
Kits exhibited at the dressing room
Visitants at the press room
Details Where Fulham Road Fulham, SW6 1HS Prices Adult £22 Museum included Hours Mondays to Sundays 10h to 16h Phone 0371 81119555 Website www.chelseafc.com How to get Fulham Broadway Tube West Brompton Overground Buses 11, 28, 296 and 298 lines
STAMFORD BRIDGE TOTTENHAM WEMBLEY
CAMDEN REGENT`S PARK PARLIAMENT TOWER
CHELSEA HEATHROW
WATERLOO
GREENWICH
LONDON
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THE HAWLEY ARMS ONE TIME INDIE DARLING IS STILL BUZZING This black fronted boozer secured its reputation as a Camden favourite during its indie-darling heyday, when Noel Fielding, the Libertines and Amy Winehouse would swing by The Hawley Arms has quite the location, sitting just beyond the lock next to Camden market. As a venue hosting regular live music, the Hawley Arms has attracted a series of celebrity regulars over the years, such as the late Amy Winehouse and Noel Fielding. The main bar is decorated with rock` n`roll memorabilia, though never in an in-your-face way. In fact, it can be a lazy, relaxing sort of place when
visited off-peak, with big comfortable sofas and a winter fire. Speaking of fire, the Hawley almost burnt down during the disastrous market blaze of the 2008 ‘Great fire of Camden’ which destroyed the top two floors — a conflagration we were unlucky enough to witness first hand. It recovered quickly, and today offers a decent mix of fine food, three cask ales and the usual mix of lagers. The Hawley keeps its non-celebrity
contingent by providing live music on the first Monday of every month, classic pub food and bar snacks served in pint glasses. It’s a Greene King pub, so there’s Abbot Ale and IPA as well as Budweiser Budvar, a guest ale handpull, fine burbons and a dozen-strong wine list. The food selection includes pub grub classics such as fish and chips, pies from Pieminister, moules frites - all for less than a tenner.
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Located in the trendy and bohemian borough of Camden, among many bars, shops and grafitti walls, the pub was a milestone of Indie music in the 2000`s and today still plays an important role as music stage
so there’s Abbot Ale and IPA as well as Budweiser Budvar, a guest ale handpull, fine burbons and a dozen-strong wine list. The food selection includes pub grub classics such as fish and chips, pies from Pieminister, moules frites - all for less than a tenner. The likes of Liam Gallagher, Kate Moss, and Pete Doherty all drank there, but above all the Hawley owed its fame and notoriety to Amy Winehouse. In the mid-2000s she was a prime tabloid quarry. When she did go out, more often than not she was heading to the Hawley. Even after “Back to Black” made her a celebrity in 2006, she was never likely to be put off going to her local. “She used to come in and say: ‘Craig, babydoll, can I serve some drinks?’” remembers the Hawley’s manager, Craig Seymour. “I’ve
seen grown men break down in tears after being served by Amy.” Her presence, coupled with being conveniently located a couple of minutes from the MTV studio, led to the Hawley becoming the British music industry’s favourite boozer. Tim Burgess of The Charlatans had already
It still scores highly on the ‘slebs scale and there’s plenty of hipster-spotting to be had. seen a few of those haunts come and go by then, but he remembers his days at the Hawley fondly. “Britpop had The Good Mixer but The Hawley Arms was
the followup to whatever the followup was – a scene so cool it didn’t have a name,” he tells me. “The Hawley Arms was the who’s who of what’s what. Amy Winehouse was pulling pints when I first went in – pretty sure she didn’t work there, but it was that kind of place.” It was all a far cry from the 80s and 90s, when the Hawley had been a bikers’ bar noted for speed-fuelled lockins. It was bought by current owners Ruth Mottram and Doug Charles-Ridler in 2002, and among their first acts was installing a jukebox full of classic soul, rhythm & blues, funk and rock which seemed precision-designed to lure in musicians. Later, they started putting
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on their own shows too. “When Doug and Ruth got the keys the pub was very different from its current form,” explains Seymour. “There was only a ground floor bar, no upstairs bar or roof terrace, so there was no space for live music. After a couple of years trading we invested in building an upstairs bar and through our clientele we decided to pull in some favours and get some of our locals to play impromptu gigs.” By then their regulars included Razorlight, who were arguably an even bigger deal than Amy – something which seems ridiculous to think about now. They’d had a number 1 album
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in 2006, and in April 2007 frontman Johnny Borrell turned up at the Hawley with then-girlfriend Kirsten Dunst – a snapshot of an era when his uncannily smooth features would stare out from the cover of British Vogue. The fact that a band like Razorlight were topping the charts, appearing in fashion mags and dating genuine Hollywood A-listers seems to represent a sort of high-water mark for the strange era of British indie that the Hawley came to stand for. At the time, tabloid gossip pages and music magazines alike would report straightfaced about seismic events like the
Arctic Monkeys and Kaiser Chiefs being spotted drinking together at the Hawley, with lines like: “Alex Turner was sipping on lemonade.” It’s hard to imagine up-and-coming guitar bands garnering that sort of feverish attention today. For a few summers they were riding the crest of a wave of celebrity, which eventually broke and rolled back in a wash of Kooks, The View and Ordinary Boys singles. The Hawley Arms survived the aforementioned fire, with a little help from their friends. Noel Fielding hosted a benefit gig over the road at Dingwalls. Razorlight played a show on the roof to
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launch their new album shortly after it re-opened. “A massive ball-ache to arrange, but it was amazing bringing Camden to a standstill,” remembers Seymour. “Our neighbours weren’t happy about that one.” What their neighbours could have found to complain about in being treated to a preview of the third Razorlight record is anyone’s guess. Suffice to say, the scene to which the Hawley had become a sort of avatar was in decline well before Amy Winehouse was found dead in July 2011 at the home she’d moved to in Camden Square. “It was immensely hard losing a friend and then dealing with the press camped outside in the aftermath of
her passing,” remembers Seymour. Nowadays, a silhouette of the singer keeps watch from a top floor window of the pub. The Hawley remains a special place for musicians who came of age during that mid-00s indie wave. Seymour jokes that Wolf Alice have been hanging out at the bar “since they were probably underage”, and says he bet them at a staff Christmas party bowling match that if they lost they’d have to play a gig at the Hawley for free. Sure enough, in October they launched their new album with a packed show at the pub – although overcrowding the dancefloor is not the most dangerous thing they’ve done at the Hawley. The mid-00s indie scene may have ended up fizzling out like one of those cheap firecrackers, but the Hawley Arms abides. It even gets a seal of approval from Daniel Jeanrenaurd, ‘Camden’s last rockstar’, who at the time of the scene’s heyday had a six-nighta-week, midnight to 4AM residency up the road at the Marathon kebab shop. “I think that place was cool, allowing a lot of bands to play,” he says. “It doesn’t
seem there’s much of a music scene left [in Camden today], but of course I don’t know everything that’s going on.” His own favourite memory of the Hawley Arms is fittingly enigmatic. “Never went there that much, but once was passing in front of it and Mick from Babyshambles encouraged me to play my guitar in front, taking the attention away from some Morris dancers performing there at the same time,” he says. “That pissed them off.”
Details Where 2 Castlehaven Rd, Camden Town, NW1 8QU Prices ££ Hours Sundays to Mondays 12 to 12 Phone 020 7428 5979 Website www.thehawleyarms.co.uk How to get Camden Town tube & overground