Day in London Cool things to do in London . March 2016
SKY GARDEN GREENWICH PARK BRITISH MUSEUM LEADENHALL MARKET OLD BANK OF ENGLAND PUB
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A day in London
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A day in London
Few Words ondon. So many things to do. So many things to see. So many places to visit and so many good beers to drink. There are an endless array of features to enrich your experience here that it may cause anxiety and confusion. A Day in London, in its third edition, brings a selection of interesting features. We start having a brunch in the Sky Garden, situated in the top of the oddest building in the city, you can have a pleasing view of London and admire its majesty. After that, we take you for a walk in the lovely Greenwich Park. Enjoy moments of peace and beauty and explore some of its cool attractions like the Cutty Sark ship or the Royal Observatory. The next stop is to admire the magnificent British Museum and its vast collection of art and objects from the beginning of the civilization. Then, we will visit Leadenhall Market, a hidden jewell of British architecture where we can taste some
our journey in a splendid pub, the Old Bank of England, to drink some fine beers
exquisite food. Now, maybe you got thirsty. No worries! We’ll conclude
and admire its stunning insterior. Well, enjoy the tour!
Photographs & graphic design by Pablo de Mello | March 2016
Having a pint in Old England Bank
42 To Drink
Wander and shop in the oldest market
36 Shopping
Hold your breath in the British Museum
24 Culture
A delicious walk in Greenwich Park
12 A Walk
Enoy a cup of coffee on the top of London
4
Having Fun
Contents
GARDEN Fancy design & ashtonishing view
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A day in London
L
ondoners just love to get high. So
Rhubarb restaurants Darwins Brasserie and the
boundaries of London, since the mountains
much so that all available slots to
Fenchurch grill.
at the South and at the North as well as the
visit the newly opened Sky Garden at the top of the Walkie Talkie
have been painfully disputed. We recently had the wonderful chance
I think you’ll agree by the set of photos
extreme Thames by both sides. Tower Bridge
we’ve taken the view of the Walkie Talkie Sky
looks like a cute miniature and the distant
Garden is incredible but the most impressive
Canary Wharf seems even more imponent.
thing here is the Sky garden itself. When the
The building was completed in April
to visit the Sky Garden at the top of the tallest
lift doors open, it’s like you’ve walked into
2014 and its bulbous shape and location
building in the City of London, 20 Fenchurch
some futuristic space craft, like on Wall-E but
amongst some of London’s most revered
building AKA, The Walkie Talkie.
without the fat people in those floaty chairs.
heritage landmarks polarised the architectural
We look forward to the open air terrace to
world. It also created controversial headlines
one of the tallest buildings in London, costing
open later this spring, cocktail in hand and
that summer - the curvature of the glass
£200 million and designed by Rafael Viñoly.
watching the sun set over Westminster.
building concentrated the sun’s light and
So, that facts, 37 storeys high, 525ft tall,
The Sky Garden occupies the top 3 storeys and includes the Sky Pod seasonal bar and
The panoramic view is absolutely breathtaking. We can easily admire the
reflected a scorching beam into the streets below that melted car parts, blistered paintwork
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A day in London
and in one stunt was used to fry an egg by a
to the likes of make-up and aftershaves.
café in the spotlight of the building.
peering down on HMS Belfast, but the best bit is around the ‘back’, where staircases take
The views
you up to the 36th floor and the Sky Garden’s
by the numbers of visitants, Over 500,000
Let’s cut straight to the chase — this is
more gardeny parts, along with up-close views
people have made a free visit to the Sky Garden
probably why you’re visiting. The Sky Garden’s
of Tower Bridge, Canary Wharf, The Gherkin
since opened to the public in last January.
main level is a large, spacious area dotted
and The Cheesegrater. Calling the space a
with tables and sofas. There’s deliberately
public park risks being a little bit over-the-
Getting in
little to get in the way of the striking 360
top, but there are plenty of plants, pathways
When you enter the building, be prepared
degree views, which has led some to suggest
through beds filled with overhanging ferns
for airport-style security before a lift whizzes
it looks a bit like an airport terminal — but
and even little seating spaces in ‘clearings’.
you up to the 35th floor. This means you’re
don’t listen too much to the cynics, we’ve
Add a carefully chosen soundtrack of ethereal
not allowed more than 100ml of liquid unless
never been as wowed on entering Heathrow
atmospheric music and you have a pretty
it’s either baby food or medication — but the
as we were here. When you first arrive you’ll
special atmosphere.
security staff were pretty sensible when it came
find yourself eye-to-eye with The Shard and
The success of public can be measured
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A day in London
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A day in London
What a breathtaking architecture achievement
The restaurants
where we ate. Peak time slots are filling up, but
(£18) boasting a flaky pastry crust, rich gravy
If you’re looking to reserve a space at one of
currently you can still get tables here within
and tender, robustly gamey-flavoured meat was
the Sky Garden’s restaurants, you have three
the week. This restaurant is set right at the
a hearty and satisfying main. A wobbly and
options.
front of the space overlooking the river, and
seriously citrusy lemon tart (£7.50) made for
probably boasts the Sky Garden’s best views.
a classy pud and also allowed us to linger long
of a kiosk than a restaurant. It’s open from
The menu is relatively moderately priced,
enough by the window to see London light up
breakfast through to dinner, serving well-
with the cheapest mains (club sandwiches)
as night fell.
priced snacks and platters — sandwiches start
costing around a tenner. We splashed out on
at £4 — along with cocktails, wines and beers.
slightly more expensive options but were very
flight of stairs up, is the Fenchurch Seafood
Dinner slots here seem to be fully booked well
impressed with the quality — this is serious
Bar & Grill on level 37. This looked pretty
into next month, which is probably because it’s
cooking rather than tourist attraction fodder.
empty when we visited, so could turn out to
the cheapest way to get up to the Sky Garden,
A large king prawn cocktail decked out with
be the easiest place to get a table — but given
as there’s no commitment to having a full meal.
quail eggs and a Bloody Mary sauce (£13.50)
it specialises in oysters, seafood platters and
made an indulgent starter, while a venison pie
caviar, it doesn’t take much for it to get pretty
The Sky Pod is on level 35, and is more
A level up is the Darwin Brasserie,
The third dining option, one further
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A day in London
pricey. It’s set much further back from the
London’s other towers. Thanks to the Sky
windows than the Darwin Brasserie, so views
Pod bar and the Darwin Brasserie, eating and
aren’t quite as good either.
drinking up here is also much more affordable
The veredict The Sky Garden blows The Shard out of the water. There, we said it. The Walkie Talkie
Fantastic views of a beautiful city
than at its counterparts. Any other way to get in? Short of abseiling? Well, maybe. We asked the
may not be the most popular silhouette on the
reservation teams while we were there, and
skyline, but that doesn’t matter when you’re at
apparently if you try your luck after 6pm on
the top, as it’s pretty much the only thing in London that you can’t see. It’s known as the building ‘with more up top’ and that really shows in the space there is to walk around — with a drink, if you like — and explore: it’s a much more free experience than visiting
A must for all, whether you live in London or just visiting, it is a fantastic way to see the city.
weekdays you’re reasonably likely to be able to get up there for a drink. Good luck! Address 20 Fenchurch St, London EC3M 8AF Site www.20fenchurchstreet.co.uk Hours Open today · 10am–6pm
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A day in London
A weird building quickly became an icon of London’s avantgarde spirit
A
rchitecture has always had its icons. For
parliament building - all of which initially met with
chameleon of our time. We have seen it mutate from
centuries they took the form of churches
disapproval. These modern icons simultaneously
a Miesian ideal into a postmodern palace, into a
and temples. In our secular age we still
signal their function and their public importance.
hi-tech machine, into organic forms and now blobs
need familiar and reassuring reference points - but
They convey the spirit of their age; they are both
dressed up as art. Strangely, for buildings intended
in the rush to fill this void, designers have been
useful and memorable.
to inspire efficiency, these cosmetic changes are
falling over themselves to apply the iconic treatment
But there are also less significant buildings
rarely market- or customer-led. They are more
to every conceivable building. These new designs
that aspire to iconic status but do not always deserve
often than not driven simply by the need to get
have names like Spiral, Cocoon, Cloud or Vortex,
the profile their sponsors demand. In this context,
planning approval. We saw this at London Bridge,
inspiring a sense of poetic wonder. Often, though,
the Guggenheim museum in Bilbao has had a
where the planning inspector hailed Renzo Piano’s
they are just ordinary buildings distorted into
significant effect.
assembly of glass shards as an artistic success. This
unnecessarily complicated shapes. Their main
Too many iconic buildings and the fabric
domineering, elephantine project is made entirely
of the city is distorted, but too few and the city is
of glass and is claimed to reflect light in a way that
dull. It is the quiet strength of ordinary streets and
is varied and beautiful. Enormous it is; interesting it
that is unmistakable, often provocative, and carries
unexceptional buildings that allows the icon to be
is as well.
cultural signals far beyond its purpose. Obvious
special. We need to look at the city as a whole, and
iconic landmarks include the Sydney opera house,
no building should leave it worse off.
purpose is to attract our attention. The true architectural icon is a building
the Pompidou centre, even the new Scottish
The office building, meanwhile, is the true
Wlakie Talkie prove that it is possible to create buildings that are at once visually impressive, workable and in keeping with their surroundings
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A day in London
Greenwich An enchanted spot in South London
A day in London
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A day in London
The banks of the eastern section of the River Thames are home to many of London’s most interesting areas. It’s here you’ll find stunning Greenwich, just 6 mi downstream of Tower Bridge, the traditional London base of the Royal Navy and home to the largest expanses of preserved historic architecture and parkland in England.
A
bout 8 miles downstream—
London skyline (there’s a guaranteed spine
the birthplace of Henry VIII, Elizabeth I, and
which means seaward, to the
chill on passing the Tower) and ever-changing
Mary I. Inigo Jones built what is considered
east—from central London,
docklands, and there’s usually a chirpy Cock-
the first “classical” building in England in
Greenwich is a small borough
er-ney navigator enlivening the journey with
1616—the Queen’s House, which now houses
his fun commentary.
a collection of fine art. Britain was the world’s
that looms large across the world. Once the seat of British naval power, it is not only
A visit to Greenwich feels like a trip to
preeminent naval power for more than 500
home to the Old Royal Observatory, which
a rather elegant seaside town—albeit one with
years, and the excellent National Maritime
measures time for our entire planet, but also
more than its fair share of historic sites. The
Museum details that history in an engaging
the Greenwich Meridian, which divides the
grandiose Old Royal Naval Hospital, designed
way. Its prize exhibits include the coat worn by
world into two—you can stand astride it with
by Christopher Wren, was originally a home
Admiral Lord Nelson (1758–1805) in his final
one foot in either hemisphere.
for veteran sailors. Today it’s a popular visitor
battle—bullet hole and all. The 19th-century
attraction, with a more glamorous second life
tea clipper Cutty Sark was nearly destroyed
Greenwich is an event in itself. In a rush, you
as one of the most widely used movie locations
by fire in 2007, but reopened in 2012 after a
can take the driverless DLR train—but many
in Britain.
painstaking restoration. Now it’s more pristine
Bear in mind that the journey to
opt for arriving by boat along the Thames. This way, you glide past famous sights on the
Greenwich was originally home to one of England’s finest Tudor palaces, and
than ever, and has an impressive new visitor center.
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A day in London
Greenwich Park, London’s oldest royal park, is still home to fallow red deer, just as
Greenwich
it has been since they were first introduced here for hunting by Henry VIII. The Ranger’s House now houses a private art collection, next
1. Cutty Sark
door to a beautifully manicured rose garden.
2. Old Navy College
Above it all is the Royal Observatory, where
3. National
you can be in two hemispheres at once by
Maritime Museum
standing along the Greenwich Meridian Line,
4. Queen’s House
before seeing a high-tech planetarium show.
5. Greenwich Park
Toward north Greenwich, the hopelessly ambitious Millennium Dome has been
6. Old Royal
successfully reborn as the O2 and now hosts
Observatory
major concerts and stand-up comedy gigs. More adventurous visitors can also go Up the 2
O2 on a climbing expedition across the massive domed surface. Meanwhile, those who prefer excursions of a gentler kind may prefer to
1
Isle of Dogs
journey a couple of miles south of the borough,
3
Greenwich
4 5
farther out into London’s southern suburbs, 6
to the shamefully underappreciated Eltham Palace, once a favorite of Henry VIII. Parts of the mansion were transformed into an art deco masterpiece in the 1930s.
Greenwich Lewisham
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A day in London
CUTTY SARK
Venture underneath and aboard one of the world’s most famous ships
T
he Cutty Sark’s name
the annual clippers’ race from
ship, with her gilded teak fittings,
naval prints and relics and largest
is taken from the poem
Shanghai to London in 1871, in a
and gaze up at the rigging on her
collection of carved and painted
‘Tam O’Shanter’ by
time of 107 days. However, with
three masts (capable of holding
ships’ figureheads in the world.
Robert Burns which describes
the coming of steam power and
30,000 square feet of canvas).
a witch wearing only a ‘cutty
the opening of the Suez Canal, the
sark’, a corruption of the French
usefulness of sailing ships began
Enjoy this unique experience
opened by the Queen in 2012.
‘courte chemise’ or short shirt.
to decline. It had an extensive
where you can walk the decks
As part of the restoration the ship
The figurehead on the prow of the
working life, visiting every major
in the footsteps of merchant
was raised 3 mteres and the hull
Cutty Sark is dressed in a similar
port in the World. The Cutty Sark
seamen who sailed her over a
area is now surrounded by glass,
garment.
made her last voyage in 1938 and
century ago
which caused some comments. The
Launched in 1869 as a tea
the Cutty Sark was restored and
was put on display here in 1957
space created is used for events,
carrier, Cutty Sark, the World’s
when HM The Queen opened the
last tea clipper, was launched at
display facility, since when over
decks reveal how the merchant
Dumbarton, Clydeside with the
15 million people worldwide have
seamen worked, lived, ate and
main objective of becoming the
enjoyed the grace and beauty of
slept in the very limited space.
fastest ship back in the annual race
this fine ship.
Exhibitions show the history of sail
to bring home the new season’s tea from China. And the ship won
Today you can wander around the beautifully restored
Following a fire in 2007
The crew’s quarters below
and the Pacific trade. The Cutty Sark also contains collections of
functions, and performances.
Cutty Sark King William Walk, SE10 9HT 020 8312 6608 www.rmg.co.uk/cutty-sark Monday - Sunday 10-17h Adults: £18.50 | Children: £8.50
A day in London
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The Cutty Sark is the world’s only surviving tea and wool clipper. These fast merchant sailing ships crossed the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans in the 19th century.
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A day in London
Old Royal Naval College D
The Old Royal Naval College is Sir Christopher Wren’s twin-domed riverside masterpiece and one of London’s most famous landmarks.
esigned by
complex leave at noon daily, taking
Christopher Wren,
in areas not otherwise open to the
the grounds of the Old Royal
the Old Royal
public.
Naval College and see the poshest
used today by the University of
pensioners home that ever was.
Greenwich and Trinity Laban
Naval College
The complex was built
Take a wander through
at the Battle of Trafalgar. The buildings are still
is a magnificent example of
on the site of the 15th-century
The Royal Hospital for Seaman, as
Conservatoire of Music and
monumental classical architecture.
Palace of Placentia, the birthplace
it was originally named, was built
Dance and if you visit during term
Parts are now used by the
of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I.
in the first half of the 18th century
time you can hear the students
University of Greenwich and
This Tudor connection, along
and was designed by Christopher
practising – it’s a beautiful noise!
Trinity College of Music, but you
with Greenwich’s industrial and
Wren and a number of other
can still visit the chapel and the
maritime history, is explored in
distinguished architects.
extraordinary Painted Hall , which
the Discover Greenwich centre.
It was a retirement home
took artist Sir James Thornhill
The tourist office is based here,
for sailors from the Royal Navy
19 years to complete. Hour-long,
along with a cafe/restaurant and
and some of the early inhabitants
yeomen-led tours (£6) of the
microbrewery.
included veterans of Nelson’s fleet
Make sure you visit the fabulous Painted Hall and the Chapel.
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A day in London
the Chapel
Painted Hall
The Chapel of St Peter and St Paul is one of the finest eighteenth century interiors in existence.
The Painted Hall has been described as ‘the Sistine Chapel of the UK’
T
by Benjamin West, it is one of the finest eighteenth century interiors
T
in the UK. A major visitor attraction ever since its completion in
hall for the naval pensioners who lived here at the Royal Hospital for
1789, and displayed to visitors along with the Painted Hall, the Chapel
Seamen. The walls and ceiling were painted by Sir James Thornhill
also still serves its original purpose as a place of worship: a service,
in two major phases between 1708 and 1727, and use symbolism
which members of the public are welcome to attend, is held here
to deliver powerful messages on a range of subjects, including the
every Sunday. Its acoustics are superb and it is also used regularly for
monarchy, religion, maritime power, navigation and trade. The theme
recitals and concerts. The ceiling of the Chapel is a wonderful piece
of Sir James Thornhill’s exuberant lower hall ceiling is the triumph of
of craftsmanship and is almost certainly responsible for the superb
Peace and Liberty over Tyranny. It pays tribute to King William and
acoustics of the space. It was designed by the master plasterer John
Queen Mary, seated in glory in the middle of the central oval, and the
Papworth in a neo-classical design of squares and octagons. The
importance of naval power to the fortunes of the nation. Look up as
intricate central ornaments were carved, rather than cast in moulds. It is
you enter the Painted Hall and you will see one of the most spectacular
plastered in a loveley light blue and cream.
domed ceilings in London rising 90ft above you.
he Chapel of St Peter and St Paul is a neo-classical masterpiece by James ‘Athenian’ Stuart and William Newton. Featuring a Samuel Green organ and an altarpiece painted
he magnificent Painted Hall is recognised as the greatest piece of decorative painting in England and has been described as ‘the Sistine Chapel of the UK’. Designed by Sir Christopher
Wren and Nicholas Hawksmoor, it was originally intended as a dining
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A day in London
National Maritime Museum D esigned by
complex leave at noon daily, taking
Christopher Wren,
in areas not otherwise open to the
the grounds of the Old Royal
the Old Royal
public.
Naval College and see the poshest
used today by the University of
pensioners home that ever was.
Greenwich and Trinity Laban
Naval College
The complex was built
Take a wander through
at the Battle of Trafalgar. The buildings are still
is a magnificent example of
on the site of the 15th-century
The Royal Hospital for Seaman, as
Conservatoire of Music and
monumental classical architecture.
Palace of Placentia, the birthplace
it was originally named, was built
Dance and if you visit during term
Parts are now used by the
of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I.
in the first half of the 18th century
time you can hear the students
University of Greenwich and
This Tudor connection, along
and was designed by Christopher
practising – it’s a beautiful noise!
Trinity College of Music, but you
with Greenwich’s industrial and
Wren and a number of other
Make sure you visit the fabulous
can still visit the chapel and the
maritime history, is explored in
distinguished architects.
Painted Hall and the Chapel.
extraordinary Painted Hall , which
the Discover Greenwich centre.
It was a retirement home
took artist Sir James Thornhill
The tourist office is based here,
for sailors from the Royal Navy
19 years to complete. Hour-long,
along with a cafe/restaurant and
and some of the early inhabitants
yeomen-led tours (£6) of the
microbrewery.
included veterans of Nelson’s fleet
National Maritime Museum Park Row, Greenwich, SE10 9NF 020 8858 4422 www.rmg.co.uk/national-maritime-museum Monday - Sunday 10-17h Free
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A day in London
Queen’s house W
Greenwich buildings and portraits of Tudor and Stuart kings and queens associated with its history. Rooms and galleries throughout the building are a fine setting for several superb maritime art collections which are held by the National Maritime Museum. New artists and photographers are showcased through modern art and touring exhibitions. Restaurant facilities are in the adjacent
ith this
to become the focal point around
elegant house
which Wren created the grand
Inigo Jones
architectural landscape that is
the beautiful Queen’s House
considered remarkable for its break
introduced
Greenwich today.
Greenwich, bringing Classical
with the traditional, red-brick
architecture to England in the
Tudor style of building, and for its
process.
elegant proportions and the high
Palladian style to England.
Special features of the
National Maritime Museum. Inigo Jones designed
completed around 1636 and is
Commissioned by King James I
House are the ‘Tulip Staircase’,
for his wife, Anne of Denmark, it
the cubic Great Hall and a logia
was a garden villa to complement
and orangery opening onto
of the most interesting buildings
first fully Classical building in
the Tudor palace at Greenwich.
Greenwich Park with fine views of
in the country. It is important
England.
Completed in 1635 during the
Wren’s unusual Flamsteed House
architecturally, and it is famous
turbulent years before the English
(the Royal Observatory) and
for its former occupants and its art
famous today for its extraordinary
Civil War, Charles I gave it to
Vanburgh’s castle on Maze Hill.
collection. The Queen’s House
art collection including works
even has its own ghost – if legend
by Great Masters such as
is to be believed.
Gainsborough, Reynolds, Turner
his queen, Henrietta Maria. It
The House now displays
survived the destruction of the
a series of historical paintings
Tudor palace by Cromwell’s army
portraying the history of these
The Queen’s House is one
The Queen’s House was
quality of its interiors. It was the
The Queen’s House is
and Hogarth.
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A day in London
The Royal Everywhere on earth is measured from here
T
he Royal
about 1720, after John Flamsteed,
Observatory, home
the first Astronomer Royal.
of Greenwich Mean
Flamsteed was appointed to
Time and the Prime
make a map of the heavens. It was
Meridian, is located within
hoped that this would solve the
Greenwich Park at the top of the
‘longitude problem’ that bedevilled
steep hill overlooking the Queen’s
early navigation.
House and the National Maritime Museum. It is managed as part of the
and is dropped daily at 1pm as a
National Maritime Museum and
signal of the time to boats on the
contains the Astronomy Centre,
Thames. Tompion’s tall pendulum
Flamsteed House and the Meridian
clocks and the chronometers
Courtyard as well as the Peter
devised by John Harrison can also
Harrison Planetarium, London’s
be seen here.
only planetarium.
In the garden next to the
In 1675 King Charles II commissioned Sir Christopher Wren to build the Royal Observatory on the site of Duke Humphrey’s medieval watchtower. It was named Flamsteed House in
The red time ball on the eastern turret was installed in 1833
In 1893, a 28-inch refracting telescope was designed
house is Flamsteed’s well. The
to keep the Royal Observatory
Astronomer used to lie on a
at the forefront of contemporary
mattress at the bottom of its 100-
astronomy and still remains the
foot drop to make observations
largest in the UK and one of the
through a glass.
largest in the world
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A day in London
Observatory Discover the past, present and future wonders of astronomy at the centre of time.
Drinks receptions may be
Meridian Courtyard for drinks
enjoyed in the Meridian Courtyard
reception on the Prime Meridian
or Flamsteed House. Dinner is
Line, spectacular views of London
served in the Octagon Room
skyline, private telescope viewings
which retains many original
and curator tours, list of accredited
historic features. This is the perfect
catering, production and floral
location to celebrate landmark
suppliers. The Astronomy Centre features the Peter Harrison Planetarium, London’s only
pioneering inventions and the UK’s
Planetarium theatre. All events
largest refracting telescope, touch
include a viewing of one of
a 4.5 billion year-old asteroid, and
our Planetarium shows. With
travel the Universe at London’s
receptions held in the Astronomy
only planetarium. You can visit the Royal
galleries and dinners in the modern
The Royal Observatory
Observatory, Planetarium and even
Greenwich is the “home of time”
stand either side of the Meridian
and the Prime Meridian Line.
Line. Explore how great scientists
Flamsteed House designed by Sir
first mapped the seas and the stars,
Christopher Wren in 1675 contains
stand astride two hemispheres
the world famous collection of
on the Prime Meridian Line, see
Harrison timekeepers.
lobby with a sliding glass wall.
occasions. Features: Access to the
Royal Observatory Park Row, Greenwich, SE10 9NF 020 8858 4422 www.rmg.co.uk/royal-observatory/ Monday - Sunday 10-17h Adults: £9.50 | Children: £5.00
BRITISH MUSEUM AN UNIQUE TREASURE
dedicated to human history, art and culture
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A day in London
The Nereid Monument The Nereid Monument takes its name from the Nereids, sea-nymphs whose statues were placed between the columns of this monumental tomb. It was built for Erbinna (Greek Arbinas), ruler of Lycian Xanthos, south-west Turkey. Although he was not Greek, Erbinna chose to be buried in a tomb that resembles a Greek temple of the Ionic order. The monument is much influenced by the Ionic temples of the Acropolis of Athens and its lavish decorative sculpture, which can be seen reconstructed and displayed around the walls of Room 17, is a mixture of Greek and Lycian style and iconography.
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A day in London
What the Acropolis in Athens looked like, including the Parthenon of the gods, is best told today at the British Museum
B
ritain’s largest museum and one
million visitors per year. In addition to the vast
unquestionable, and now the British Museum
of the oldest and finest in the
permanent collection, the museum’s special
may be the museum to beat all the rest. In
world, the British Museum
exhibitions, displays and events are all designed
fact, it’s the top attraction in the country—6.7
is a remarkable display of
to advance understanding of the collection and
million people visited in 2013. Put on your
cultures they represent.
walking shoes because it’s huge.
fundamental art and objects from human kind, boasting vast Egyptian, Etruscan,
With a facade like a great temple, this
Inside are some of the greatest relics of
Greek, Roman, European and Middle
celebrated treasure house, filled with plunder
humankind: the Parthenon Sculptures (Elgin
Eastern galleries, among many others, and its
of incalculable value and beauty from around
Marbles), the Rosetta Stone, the Sutton Hoo
collections, only a fraction of which can be
the globe, occupies an imposing neoclassical
Treasure—almost everything, it seems, but the
on public display at any one time, comprise
building in the heart of Bloomsbury.
original Ten Commandments. The three rooms
millions of objects. The British Museum’s breathtaking
Founded in 1753 and first opened in
that comprise the Sainsbury African Galleries
1759 in a converted mansion, the British
are a must-see in the Lower Gallery—together
collection spans over two million years of
Museum is as much a monument to great
they present 200,000 objects, highlighting such
human history. Enjoy a unique comparison of
craftsmanship as it is to the piracy carried out
ancient kingdoms as the Benin and Asante
the treasures of world cultures under one roof,
by 18th- and 19th-century Englishmen, who,
Holdings are grouped in numbered
centred around the magnificent Great Court.
on their trips abroad, plundered whatever
rooms by geography, with an emphasis on
goodies they could find and then told the bereft
the Greek and Roman Empires, Europe, and
Rosetta Stone, Parthenon sculptures, and
that the thievery was for their own good. Yet
Britain. Dominating the center of the glass-
Egyptian mummies are visited by up to six
the exquisite taste of these English patriarchs is
roofed Great Court like a drum in a box,
World-famous objects such as the
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A day in London
the cream-and-gold, round Reading Room, completed in 1857, was once part of the British Library. Patrons had to apply for tickets, and they included Lenin and Karl Marx, who developed their political theories here; other habitués included Bram Stoker, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, and Virginia Woolf, who wrote upon entering “one stood under the vast dome, as if one were a thought in the huge bald forehead which is so splendidly encircled by a band of famous names.” The Reading Room still houses some 25,000 books, but is usually closed to the public. The museum’s focal point is the Great Court, a brilliant modern design with a vast glass roof atop the
Guide desk in the Great Court). There’s plenty to keep
museum’s covered courtyard. The revered Reading Room
kids interested here, by way of activities, games, and videos
has a blue-and-gold dome and hosts temporary exhibitions.
(check website for details), and the exhibits themselves, of
If you want to navigate the highlights of the almost 100
course.
galleries, join a free eyeOpener 30- or 40-minute tour by
The collection began when Sir Hans Sloane,
a museum guide (details at the information desk), or hire
physician to Queen Anne and George II, bequeathed his
a multimedia guide for £5 (available from the Multimedia
personal collection of antiquities to the nation. It grew
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Designed by Foster and Partners, the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court transformed the Museum’s inner courtyard into the largest covered public square in Europe. In the original Robert Smirke design the courtyard was meant to be a garden. However, in 1852–7 the Reading Room and a number of bookstacks were built in the courtyard to house the library department of the Museum and the space was lost. In 1997, the Museum’s library department was relocated to the new British Library building in St Pancras and there
The Rosetta Stone The pivotal Rosetta Stone (196 b.c.), in room 4, is what
was an opportunity to re-open the space to public. An architectural competition was launched to re-design the courtyard space. There were over 130 entries and
helped linguists crack hieroglyphics, and its importance to an-
it was eventually won by Lord Foster. The design of
thropology can’t be exaggerated. Napoleon’s soldiers found it in
the Great Court was loosely based on Foster’s concept
Egypt in 1799, but the British nabbed it in 1801. Consider it his
for the roof of the Reichstag in Berlin, Germany. A
first Waterloo. It now adorns everything from handbags to socks
key aspect of the design was that with every step in
in the gift shops; free museums have to profit somehow.
the Great Court the vista changed and allowed the visitor a new view on their surroundings. Work on the Great Court’s magnificent glass and steel roof began
quickly, thanks to enthusiastic kleptomaniacs after the
in September 1999. The canopy was designed and
Napoleonic Wars—most notoriously the seventh Earl of
installed by computer. It was constructed out of 3,312
Elgin, who acquired the marbles from the Parthenon and
panes of glass, no two of which are the same. At two
Erechtheion in Athens during his term as British ambassador
acres, the Great Court increased public space in the
in Constantinople. Here follows a highly edited résumé (in
Museum by forty per cent, allowing visitors to move
order of encounter) of the British Museum’s greatest hits:
freely around the main floor for the first time in 150
close to the entrance hall, in Room 4, is the Rosetta Stone,
years.
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OLYMPIA`S HELMET HALICARNASSUS LION CARYATID COLUMN This gorgeous female figure sculpted serving as an architectural support taking the place of a column or a pillar supporting an entablature on her head. The first examples come from ancient Greek architecture and indeed, the most celebrated examples are found in the south porch of the Erechtheion on the acropolis of Athens. The Caryatids now on the acropolis are copies, five of the originals reside in the Acropolis Museum of Athens and the other is in the British Museum.
Marble statue from the Mausoleum of Halikarnassos. It represents a lion which was placed at the base of the stepped pyramid. The lion stands with both left legs slightly advanced. The statue is reconstructed from several fragments. It is nearly complete except for the paws and the end of the tail, the curve of which is seen on the left hind leg.
Bronze helmet of Corinthian type, with an inscription. The inscription records that the Argives (inhabitants of Argos) won the helmet in battle from the Corinthians and dedicated it to Zeus in his sanctuary at Olympia.
SUTTON HOO HELMET
PARTHENON MARBLE Marble statue from the East pediment of the Parthenon by Phideas. The East pediment showed the miraculous birth of the goddess
THE MUSEUM’S
Athena from the head of her father Zeus. Many of the figures from the central scene are now fragmentary or entirely lost. This figure was carved as an isolated horse’s head. Its ears are flattened.
ASSYRIAN STATUE
ATHRIBIS BRONZE
Limestone statue of attendant god dedicated to Nabu by Adad-Nirari III and Sammuramat; carved from inferior limestone, standing in the attitude of submission, wearing the singlehorned crown proper to minor deities.
A bronze statue, the size of life, in all probability representing. Apollo as a young man and found near of the ancient Athribis, on the Pelusiac branch of the Nile
LAMASI STATUE Large stone sculptures and reliefs were a striking feature of the palaces and temples of ancient Assyria carved to protect the city
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PARTHENON`S MARBLE The temple’s great size and lavish use of white marble was intended to show off the city’s power and wealth at the height of its empire. Room 18 exhibits sculptures that once decorated the outside of the building.
PARTHENON`S MARBLE The pediments and metopes illustrate episodes from Greek mythology, while the frieze represents the people of contemporary Athens in religious procession.
ANTINOUS STATUE Marble portrait head from a statue of Antinous (as Dionysus?) wearing a wreath of ivy, found in Lazio, Italy.
The Sutton Hoo Helmet is one of the most important Anglo Saxon finds of all time. It was buried in the grave of a warrior chieftain.
Cycladic Islands Marble During the early part of the Greek Bronze Age, the people of the Aegean islands known as the Cyclades began to produce items made from
TOP FEATURES
copper, silver, lead and the fine white marble of the area. Objects on display in Room 11 include marble vessels and the well-known Cycladic stylised figurines.
ASSYRIAN RELIEF The hunt scenes, full of tension and realism, rank among the finest achievements of Assyrian Art. They depict the release of the lions, the ensuing chase and subsequent killing.
APHROODIDTE`S STATUE Parian marble sculpture Aphrodidte, ancient Greek Goddess of Love
CELTIC CROSS A distinctive Insular tradition of erecting monumental stone high crosses began by the 8th century. Inspiration for high crosses came from earlier versions created from wood while some were faced in metalwork.
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found by French soldiers in 1799, and carved in 196 BC by decree of Ptolemy V in Egyptian hieroglyphics, demotic (a cursive script developed in Egypt), and Greek. This inscription provided the French Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion with the key to deciphering hieroglyphics. Also in Room 4 is the Colossal statue of Ramesses II, a 7-ton likeness of this member of the 19th dynasty’s (circa 1270 BC) upper half. Maybe the Parthenon Sculptures should be back in Greece, but while the debate rages on, you can steal your
collections of native culture outside North America, going
own moment with the Elgin Marbles in Room 18. Carved
back to the earliest hunters 10,000 years ago. Next door,
in about 400 BC, these graceful decorations are displayed
the Mexican Gallery holds such alluring pieces as the 15th-
along with a high-tech exhibit of the Acropolis. Be sure to
century turquoise mask of Xiuhtecuhtli, the Mexican Fire
stop in the Enlightenment Gallery in Room 1 to explore the
God and Turquoise Lord. The Living and Dying displays in
great age of discovery through the thousands of objects on
Room 24 include Cradle to the Grave, an installation by a
display. Also in the West Wing is one of the Seven Wonders
collective of artists and a doctor displaying more than 14,000
of the Ancient World—in fragment form—in Room 21:
drugs (the number estimated to be prescribed to every
the Mausoleum of Halikarnassos. The JP Morgan Chase
person in the United Kingdom in his lifetime) in a colorful
North American Gallery (Room 26) has one of the largest
tapestry of pills and tablets.
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Elgin’s Marbles The museum’s most famous, and most controversial, possessions are the so-called Elgin Marbles, gingerly referred to as The Sculptures of the Parthenon (rooms 18 and 19) to disguise imperialist provenance These slab sculptures (called friezes and Metopes), plus some life-size weathered statuary, once lined the pediment of the famous Parthenon atop Athens’ Acropolis but were defaced (literally—the faces were hacked off) by invading vandals (not literally—they were Persian) in the 500s.
The temple’s great size and lavish use of white marble was intended to show off the city’s power and wealth at the height of its empire. Upstairs are some of the most popular galleries, especially beloved by children. Rooms 62–63 are where the Egyptian mummies live. Nearby are the glittering 4th-century Mildenhall Treasure and the equally splendid 8th-century Anglo-Saxon Sutton Hoo Treasure (with magnificent helmets and jewelry). Next along is the Lindow Man, a ritually slain chap from the 1st century who lay perfectly pickled in a Cheshire bog until he was unearthed by archaeologists in 1984. The Korean Foundation Gallery (Room 67) delves into the art and archaeology of the
They suffered further indignities in a 1687 gunpowder explosion before being sawed off and carted away by Lord Elgin. They’re laid out in the gallery in the approximate position in which they appeared on the Parthenon, only facing inward so you can admire them. Greece begs ceaselessly for their return, but the British have argued that they’re better cared for in London. The smog-burnt portions left behind in Athens make a muddy issue of conservation and politics even murkier.
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The Lion Hunt
Siege of Lachish
In ancient Assyria, lion-hunting was considered the sport of kings, symbolic of the ruling monarch’s duty to protect and fight for his people. The sculpted reliefs in Room 10a illustrate the sporting exploits of the last great Assyrian king, Ashurbanipal (668-631 BC) and were created for his palace at Nineveh (in modern-day northern Iraq). The hunt scenes, full of tension and realism, rank among the finest achievements of Assyrian Art. They depict the release of the lions, the ensuing chase and subsequent killing.
Lachish was one of the chief cities of the kingdom of Judah in the southern Levant and in 701 BC it was captured by the Assyrian King Sennacherib (704-681 BC). The siege followed the refusal of Lachish to pay tribute to the Assyrian Empire (based in modern northern Iraq) and is mentioned in the Bible. Many of the relief sculptures on display in Room 10b depict the capture of the city, alongside a selection of items and weaponry used in the siege. A “prism” inscribed with an Assyrian account of the campaign is also on show.
The Assyrian Collection
Lamasi The Lamasu is a celestial being of protection within the Assyrian culture. Often placed outside palaces, lamasu were colossal in size to illustrate the king’s power. A key feature rendered in these deities was the addition of a fifth leg. Lamasu statues were intended to be seen from the font, as standing firm or in profile in mid-stride. To render this effect, one additional front leg is needed.
Balawat Gates Large stone sculptures and reliefs were a striking feature of the palaces and temples of ancient Assyria (modern northern Iraq). An entrance to the royal palace of King Ashurnasirpal II (883859 BC) at Nimrud was flanked by two colossal winged humanheaded lions. A gigantic standing lion stood at the entrance to the nearby Temple of Ishtar, the goddess of war. These sculptures are displayed in Rooms 6a and 6b alongside fragments and replicas of the huge bronze gates of Shalmaneser III (858-824 BC) from Balawat.
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The rooms and courtyards of the Neo-Assyrian Southwest Palace of King Sennacherib (704-681 BC) at Nineveh (in modern northern Iraq) were decorated with a series of detailed carved stone panels
An astonishing glimpse in the beginning of civilization
A
n impressive collection of
the viewer of the power and authority of the
Middle East. The rich resources of the study
objects from one of the first
reigning king. 2,500 years after the collapse
collection are also made more widely accessible
empires in human history
of the Assyrian Empire, beginning in the 18th
through handling-classes, behind-the-
can be admired in its full
century and reaching a height in the 19th
scenes tours, temporary displays and loans to
century, England led many archaeological
temporary exhibitions at other institutions.
imponence.
The Neo-Assyrian Empire was the
excavations and studies throughout Iraq,
The Middle East collection effectively
largest and last period of the Assyrian Empire
rediscovering a long forgotten civilization.
began with the bequest of drawings and
which had reigned for nearly 1,300 years from
Through these studies, architectural layouts,
other items from the collection of Sir Hans
1900 to 609 BCE. The Assyrian culture was
deciphering of the diverse cuneiform scripts,
and seals from the collections of Sir William
part of the Mesopotamian civilizations that
and an understanding of this ancient empire
Hamilton, which were purchased by the
lived along the Tigris River, including Sumer,
came to light. Held at the British Museum,
British Museum in 1772. The collection was
Akkad and the later Babylonian culturesAt
these vast objects continue to inspire viewers,
dramatically enlarged in the mid-nineteenth
the height of the Assyrian Empire, the Neo-
reminding them of the power once held and
century following A.H. Layard’s excavations at
Assyrian kings demonstrated their expanding
adding to the greater understanding of our
the Assyrian sites of Nimrud and Nineveh. At
power through large-scale architecture and
collective past.
Nimrud, Layard found the state apartments of
art. Grand throne rooms were guarded by
The Department of the Middle East
the North-West Palace of Ashurnasirpal II, as
monumental lamasi, winged bulls or lions,
covers all periods of the region from prehistory
well as three other palaces and various temples.
with a human head and standing over 11 3
to the present day. This includes a large
In the Palace of Sennacherib at Nineveh
meters tall. Depictions of the king’s victories
amount of archaeological finds, especially from
he opened ‘no less than seventy-one halls,
lined the walls in intricate and richly colored
Mesopotamia (ancient Iraq), but extending
chambers and passages, whose walls, almost
carvings detailing the events with extensive
from Phoenician colonies in the western
without an exception, had been panelled with
written accounts alongside in Akkadian
Mediterranean to sites in former Soviet Central
slabs of sculptured alabaster recording the
cuneiform. In every depiction, religious and
Asia. There are approximately 330,000 objects
wars, the triumphs, and the great deeds of the
royal symbolism represented and reminded
in the collection of the Department of the
Assyrian king.’
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Leadenhall market A Hidden treasure with everything you need in the heart� of the City
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A day in London
L
eadenhall Market is a beautiful
Eyre, another rich merchant and Lord Mayor in
and Leadenhall Place. In 1885 an additional
covered Victorian market in the
1445, built a school, chapel, granary to service
connection was made with Lime Street to the
City of London. Under the elegant
those coming to the market which by then,
south. The entrances have beautifully sculpted
Victorian roof there are stalls
was one of the best places in London to buy
fronts; the entrance on the Gracechurch Street
selling flowers, cheese, meat and other fresh
poultry, game, meat, fish, eggs, butter, grain
is especially elaborate. Horace Jones’s design
food. There are also shops, pubs and restaurants
and herbs.
of the shops is colorful while the glass and
in the market building. Close to the Lloyd’s of
As a natural centre of commerce,
wrought iron roof allows plenty of light to
London building and the Bank of England, it’s
Leadenhall Market continued to grow. In
enter the alleys. An elegantly designed dome
a popular place for city workers on lunch break
1463, a beam was installed for the weighing of
covers the crossing. During re-building of
wool and markets for leather and cutlery were
Leadenhall, one of the Roman Basilica’s
established.
arches was discovered in the north-western
The site on which Leadenhall Market stands today has been used for trading since Roman Times, but it was not until the early
The present magnificent wrought iron
foundations and has now been preserved in the
14th century that the Manor of Leadenhall (a
and glass structure was designed in 1881 by Sir
basement of the Nicholson & Griffin Barber
Hall with a lead roof ) was first recorded.
Horace Jones, architect and surveyor for the
Shop in the Market’s Central Avenue. Sir
City of London Corporation. Jones’ other work
Horace’s new market consisted of wrought
hall had evolved into a poultry market and
included Billingsgate and Smithfield markets
iron, red brick, Portland stone and a glass roof
towards the end of the century the poulterers
and Tower Bridge. The design was probably
in a neo-classical style.
were joined by cheesemongers. In 1411 ‘Dick’
influenced by the Galleria in Milan, designed
Whittington, a rich merchant, politician and
twenty years earlier and built between 1865
market became more of a destination for
four times Lord Mayor of London, gifted
and 1877.
consumers rather than wholesale trade, with
By 1321, the area around the manor
Leadenhall to the City Corporation. As the site grew in importance Simon
The covered alley connected the former market with Gracechurch Street
In between World Wars I and II, the
the latter business moving to Smithfield a mile away. Between 1990-1991, the market
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A day in London
was redecorated to enhance the architectural detail. Within the centre of the market is the historic Lamb Tavern, which has stood on the site since 1309. Today Leadenhall Market, with its narrow cobbled streets, passageways and attractive painted roof structure, is popular with both local city workers and tourists. Open weekdays from 7:00am until 11:00pm, the market is a step back in time, a relaxing place to shop, eat and drink. There are many fresh food market stalls (only Mon - Fri),
Sir Horace Jones
was an English architect
particularly noted for his work as Architect and Surveyor to the City of London in the XIX century. His most recogni-
butchers, florists, commercial retailers,
sed work is Tower Bridge, a world famous London landmark.
restaurants, bars and, like 600 years
Beginning with Cardiff Town Hall and Caversham, he desig-
earlier, cheesemongers.
ned and carried out many buildings of importance and was
The market, with its unique environment, has been used as a film location for many movies including Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone and Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy.
in charge of several renovations and additions to the Guildhall. Later, he designed and built some of London’s most famous markets, in particular Smithfield, Billingsgate and Leadenhall. He also designed the memorial at Temple Bar. Jones’ final legacy is one of the most recognised buildings in the world but one he would never see himself, the Tower Bridge..
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A day in London
Leadenhall is not only a scenic market place which makes for a lovely stroll around, it also sells some of the finest food in London
41
A PINT IN THE COURT A beautifully preserved piece of London’s past, this place is the perfect lunch stop for history hunters in the capital
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Few pubs in central London can match the opulence of The Old Bank
T
he Old Bank of England is
taverns were demolished in 1888 to make way
another of Fuller’s fine banking
for the construction of the Law Courts branch
hall conversions. Despite the
of The Bank of England, designed in the
the soaring spacious bar has three gleaming
name, however, it isn’t the
Italianate style which was popular at the time.
chandeliers hanging from an exquisitely
original Bank of England - that one’s been
The Bank of England traded on this site
reach the higher shelves. It’s a Grade I listed Italianate building and
plastered ceiling that’s high above an unusually
in its familiar location since 1734. This one
for 87 years, until 1975, when the premises
tall island bar counter crowned with a clock.
was built as branch of the Old Lady to serve
were sold to a building society.
The end wall has huge paintings and murals
the nearby Law Courts. When it was built
Fuller’s spent a fortune restoring the
that look like 18th-c depictions of Justice, but
(in 1888) the one thing the Victorians didn’t
building when they took it over in the
in fact, feature members of the Fuller, Smith
do was stint on the dEcor and when it’s the
1990’s and, more recently, it’s had a bit more
and Turner families, who run the brewery that
Bank of England you’d expect it to be built to
renovation work. Nowadays, what you get is
owns the pub.
impress - and certainly it does.
Fuller’s excellent beers (accompanied by a jolly
Before the Bank of England was here,
There are well polished dark wooden
decent wine list) . The building is Grade I listed
furnishings, luxurious curtains swagging
there had actually been two taverns (pubs) on
(must be preserved) and Fuller’s have done a
massive windows, plenty of framed prints and,
this site in the 16th and 17th centuries called
grand job as the interior is opulent and the
despite the grandeur, some surprisingly cosy
‘The Cock’ and ‘The Haunch of Venison’. Both
centerpiece bar is so tall a ladder is provided to
corners, with screens between tables creating
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A day in London
an unexpectedly intimate feel. The quieter
Somehow or other, good home-made pies
galleried section upstairs offers a bird’s-eye
have become a speciality on the menu here
view of the action; some smaller rooms (used
too: sweet potato, spinach and goats cheese,
mainly for functions) open off.
lamb with red wine, rosemary and mint and
Seven Fullers beers are on handpump
traditional fish. Also, sandwiches, ham hock
alongside a good choice of malt whiskies and
terrine with piccalilli, beer-battered cod and
a dozen wines by the glass. At lunchtime, the
chips, feta and rocket pesto on linguine, beer-
background music is generally classical or easy
marinated chicken with bacon and beer and
listening; it’s louder and livelier in the evenings.
mustard sauce, burger with toppings, relish and
There’s also a garden with seats (one of the few
chips, and puddings such as chocolate brownie
pubs in the area to have one).
and raspberry and vanilla cheesecake.
The Old Bank of England Pub also has a
Of course, this attractive package is popular
more grisly connection with the past, as it is
in these parts so expect it to be very crowded
between the site of Sweeney Todd’s barber shop
at lunch times and early evenings, especially
- ‘The Demon Barber of Fleet Street’ - and
towards the end of the week, but if you can get
Mrs Lovett’s pie shop.
in at a quieter time, it’s a great place to sip a
Pies have a long if rather dubious pedigree
good pint of bitter and admire the scenery.
in this area: it was in the vaults and tunnels below the Old Bank and the surrounding buildings that Sweeney Todd butchered the clients destined to provide the fillings at his mistress Mrs Lovett’s nearby pie shop.
The pub offers a good array of Fuller’s beer.
The Old Bank of England Pub 194 Fleet Street, London EC4A 2LT 020 7430 2255 www.oldbankofengland.co.uk/ Monday - Saturday 08-23h £ 3.80 a pint of Frontier Lager
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A day in London
Visit the site of the myth of Sweeney Todd - the building lies between the site of his barber shop and the pie shop owned by Mrs Lovett.
S
weeney Todd, “The Demon Barber of Fleet Street” first came to prominence in the mid 19th century since when he has appeared in books, plays, a musical and in films. His gruesome story caught the public imagination yet again in 2008 when Johnny Depp played him in Tim Burton’s film Sweeney Todd. But who was this murderous barber, and when, if ever, did he live? Before looking at the history of the story of Sweeney Todd one thing has to be made absolutely and unequivocally clear - there never was a barber on Fleet Street by the name of Sweeney Todd.Yet his story has thrilled, chilled and turned the stomachs of many generations of horror seekers ever since he slashed his way into the public consciousness by way of the Victorian Penny Dreadful periodicals in the middle decade of the 19th century. In essence his story is a simple one. He belongs to a bygone age when men’s home grooming was little more than primitive. Electric and safety razors were luxuries of the future and so any gentleman that required a close, clean shave was forced to entrust himself to a local barber. Sitting in the barber’s chair might well feel, decidedly exposed and vulnerable! The Sweeney Todd stories have at their root a simple, blood-drenched scenario. Todd is a successful and prosperous Barber with premises at 185 Fleet Street. Sitting his unsuspecting clients into his specially constructed barber’s chair he lathers up their faces and suddenly tips the chair back, pitching his unfortunate customers heel over head through a trap door into the cellar below. If the fall hasn’t
killed them, Todd is compelled to ‘polish them off ’ with his razor. Having robbed them, he drags their bodies through an underground tunnel to the premises of his lover Mrs. Margery Lovett in nearby Bell Yard. Here the story takes another twist creating fear from the familiar in an age when people were far more dependent on outside caterers than we are today by the stomach churning device of having Todd’s victims turned into succulent meat pies for Mrs Lovett’s much vaunted Meat Pie Shop.
His victim’s worldly possessions are hidden away in Sweeny Todd’s shop, whilst any remains that haven’t gone into a batch of meat pies are secreted in the dank, disused vaults beneath St Dunstan’s church on Fleet Street. As time progresses Sweeney Todd grows ever more confident and audacious, but in so doing his insatiable lust for blood proves his undoing. Thanks
to the efforts of a determined magistrate, a group of Bow Street Runners and a pair of lovers, Todd and Lovett are brought to justice and put on trial at the Central Criminal Courts or Old Bailey. Despite the fact that several books and articles have confidently assured their readers that Sweeney Todd did exist, there is absolutely no historical figure by that name and indeed no barber by the name of Sweeney Todd ever found himself on trial at the Old Bailey charged with murdering his clients and, with the aid of his mistress and accomplice, using them to create killer recipes. Yet the story of Sweeny Todd has never lost its popularity and this hideous creation and his foul deeds continue to shock and thrill in equal measure in television dramas and most recently in the film Sweeney Todd starring Johnny Depp. So what was the inspiration for this bloodthirsty tome and was there a real life counterpart upon whom the creators and developers of one of the most famous and long lasting Victorian melodramas based the character? Although the Sweeney Todd story as we know it today first appeared in 1846 in Edward Lloyd’s The People’s Periodical as an eighteen part serial entitled The String of Pearls: A Romance, the story drew upon and was heavily influenced by several previous well known fictions. In the 1830’s Lloyd had made something of a name for himself by plagiarising the works of Charles Dickens. Inevitably Dickens also part influenced Lloyd’s most enduring storyline, that of Sweeny Todd.
The Temple Bar Memorial
Old Bank of England Pub
Royal Courts of Justice