vicentin DISCOVERING VICENZA
vicentin
Discovering Vicenza
I
visited Vicenza for the first time in the begging of 2012. In that cold winter, I got the first impressions of beauty and peace walking through those tiny and charming streets quietly, observing the beautiful palaces and the calm rythm of the people. I couldn’t imagine that few time later I would be arriving with my family to live here. We were coming from a fantastic year in Florence and we expected to find here a little bit of that atmosphere. How surprised we got when the days were passing by and the reception of the people were warmer than we imagined. Smiles, gently words and a very respectful treatment in all different fields of the everyday life. In a question of weeks we got adapted very well. We were discovering the hidden enchants
Vicenza offers only to its inhabitants. The flowers and the music of the street markets. An stirred nightlife and the delicious aperitivos served in the piazzas. The beautiful panorama of the Parco Querini in a hot day or the frozen Pasubio down Campo Marzo in the mornings. The unforgetable sunset from Monte Iberico or the pink light over the Basilica marble. The Rotonda painted in yellow. All those uncountless elegant palaces full of art and tradition. That breath of and ancient time in a very charming city. After a little while, came the ideia to create a magazine about Vicenza life, with its characters and hotspots. It would be a mix of a cultural program and photographies taken in loko. I hope you like it. It is an portrait of this gorgeous city by someone in love with it.
Texts, photos and design by Pablo de Mello Vicenza 2014
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Running in Campo Marzo
Bike around La Rotonda
Sunset in Monte Iberico
Picnic in Parco Querini
Ice cream in Aperitivo in Piazza S. Lorenzo Piazza Signoria
Take a walk in Corso Palladio
Drawing Vicenza
Aperitivo in Spend the Concert in Olympic Theater Terraza Basilica night around
#13 #14 Lunch in Basilica
Shopping in the market
Visit the museums
to get lost in its streets is to get lost in your heart
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Stazione
Viale Roma
Campo Marzo
Via Eretenio
#1 Running in Campo Marzo
C
ampo Marzo, is one of the largest parks of Vicenza. Located in the beggining of the city, is a suggestive place for running and get stretched. It has about 4 km of lenght plenty of trees. It offers some kind of floor: grass in some parts and concrete and solied pave in others. It is quite flat and there is a feeling of peace that will encorage you to go further. There are some drinking fountains distributed through the way. It will make you feel more comfortable during the summer hot days. You also can find there benches that will allow to get streched. Close to the bus station there is a playground to kids. You can drop your children there while you burn some calories. Along the year, there are several events as antiche markets, fairs, and exhibitions. But it won’t disturb you so much if you are in the mood to go on. During the winter, is possible to have an unforgatable view of the frozen Pasubio mountains in the horizon, after the trees and buildings. The sunset is also a special moment. Well, Campo Marzo is, along to Parco Querini, a perfect place to get shaped.
{ { Run, Pablo run!
#2
Picnic in Parco Querini
{ peace! }
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icenza’s most beautiful park. A suggestive and bucolic green area where rabbits, cocks and turtles divides space with the Vicentine and tourists. An ideal place to make a walk, to run and get stretched, to have a picnic or just to relax. It is very common to observe people having lunch or just admiring the scene. Children playing with some educative toys or just going round. The area, more than 120.000 meters, was part of
the garden of a Villa and is located in Pusterla neighborhood beyond Bacchiglione River. In 1971, the park was opened to the public. There is a charming boulevard, with trees and marble statues finishing in a little island rounded by a waterway where, in the top, there is a charming tiny greeek temple with Ionic columns designed by Piovene in 1820. The Pope Giovanni Paolo II celebrated a missa there in 1991. It is a very pleasant place to spend the Sundays with family relaxing between a panino and a glass of white fresh wine.
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too much beautiful
Shopping in #3 the market
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ne of the most traditional aspects of the Italian culture are their street markets where anyone can finds anything in every city. There, most of the best products as the finnest cheese of all kinds, salumi, fish, fruits and vegetables, flowers and clothes, antichities, beer and wine, fabrics and rugs, everything can be easily find with good quality and prices. These markets comes from the Roman times and represent part of the essential Italian identity. Every city houses its own market where the citizens meet themselves, talk about personal issues and make business. In Vicenza, I love to buy my beloved Grana cheese from a very likable family that offers top quality cheese and salumi of regional producers and it became part of my routine every week.
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grana + pomodori + fish
pollo + fiori + mele + speck
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Take a walk in
#4 Corso Palladio
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orso Palladio is the main street of the storic center. Receives its name in honour to one of the greatest artists of Vicenza, a revolutionary man that evoked some classical values and reintroduced them in the architecture. It is the elegant and full of history artery of the city. Its actual route corresponds quite well to the decumans maximus, the west-east axis of the Roman cities. At the same time, it assumed the urban trace of the ancient Via Postumia, the old Roman road that connected Genova to Aquileia, a city north of Venice. The forum was located where today is the Palazzo Trissino. In the medieval times, the beginning of the road was through Porta Castello. After the Italian Unification, it received the name of Corso Principe Umberto. Later, there was a tramline crossing all its lenght and it became a pedestrian. Nowadays, it connects Porta Castello to Piazza Matteotti and is full of elegant shops, caffes and offices. It is the Vicentine catwalk crowded as the weekends, a good place to observe the locals in their relaxing moments.
the *main
artery
#5
Bike around
La Rotonda
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a Rotonda, or Villa Capra, designed by the great architect Andrea Palladio, is one of the most important buildings in the world. Along with other works, the building is conserved as part of the World Heritage Site “City of Vicenza and the Palladian Villas of the Veneto”. Its elegant and clean lines inspired in the classical Greek-Roman spirit marked the history of architecture and transformed it forever. The building was a Villa ordered by a priest taking advantage of the view from the terrain and it was constructed in a way to keep clear it. This symbol of Vicenza’s finest attractions is very near to the storic center. It takes less than 20 minutes cycling through a beautiful path close to the Berici Mountain. The safe trail goes close to the Arch delle Scalette and Villa Valmarana dei Nani, two another fine Palladio’s works. If you are lucky to be in Vicenza in the end of April, don’t even think of missing the canola plantation around La Rotonda. Its unforgetable yellow tones will make you loose the breath and think it as a alucination! The plantation became a frame around the building and contrasting finely with he blue sky. As the sun goes down, the tone of the yellow turns darker transforming the scene in a vision from other world.
Amazing!
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Aperitivo in Piazza S. Lorenzo
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iazza San Lorenzo is one of my favorite places in Vicenza. There is an particular atmosphere that makes me feel in peace, relaxed, maybe taken to other time. The dominating Gothic San Lorenzo church, a massive red brick and marble building, evoking some medieval visions. The fontana where I brought my dog so many times during the warm days. The noble Palazzo Reta, head office of the Bank of Italy with those pretty ornaments on the facade. All those elegant shops waiting for the movement of the people. The cafes serving fantastics aperitivos, especially cafĂŠ Trillo, where the kind waiter and his big smile had always make us comfortable. I strongly recommend to sit there, ask for an Aperol Spritz and observe the come and go of the talking groups of kids or the seniors in a smooth rythm, during a pleasant afternoon.
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best spritz in town
{
love + pleasure + secrets + art + history+ peace
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#7
Ice cream in Piazza dei Signori
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icenza is crowded by nice ice cream shops. There are some traditionals, as Gelateria della Contra Muscherie, whose cream flavors as straciatella are famous through all Vicenza. There are others with a contemporany approach like the bio trendy Olli, in Corso Fogazzaro, that serves a granita with a fantastic flavor of strawberry. Or Gelateria Pretto, a cool network that serves top ice creams specially created by famous Italian chefs. My favorite flavour is fior de latte made with milk from Trento region. Precious! The shop is very close to the Basilica Palladiana and Piazza dei Signori. So, how delightful is take the ice cream, sit on the stairs of the Basilica or the Loggia del Capitano and just be there, relaxing and observing the movement of the people and the beauty of the place. Naturally, this is one of our favorite rides.
* The mood
of old days
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* Too damn beautiful
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#8 Drawing Vicenza
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or those who enjoys observe and draw things, Vicenza is a treasury waiting to be discovered and explored. The city is a urban jewell still obbeying the Roman scheme made centuries ago. It is full of heautiful palaces and buildings, charming squares, towers, bridges and parks. And the most important: all magnificent Palladios buildings with their elegant and fascinating lines. The city gives you an invite to draw it. Explore its narrow streets, fine windows frames and pretty churches. I spent hours walking and exploring it, stopping here and there to draw something or just take a photo. Parco Querini and its boulevard and greek temple gives a bucolic view as well as the belvedere of Monte Berico from where the Alps can be admired and registred. Well, Vicenza is a dream to everyone who loves to produce a particular impression.
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Drawing Palladio: a must!
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Sunset in Monte Iberico
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eyond all architectonic treasures Vicenza offers there is a special spot where the astonishing view wonders visitors and make them dream. It is the suggestive Belvedere of Monte Berico from where takes a mazing view of Vicenza and the frozzen Alps behind. The belvedere is placed in front of the Sanctuary of Monte Berico, an important Vicentinr church and its access is madeby car or a long stairway that begins under the interesting Palladio’s Arch delle Scalette. It is very pleasant to send some hours up there admiring the view while the sun goes down. many tourists come to enjoy these moments as well as inhabitants searching some inspiration or relax.
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What an amazing view!
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So easy to fall in love!
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Concert in Olympic Theater
A
very special place to Vicenza, one of its symbols and pride for every citizen. The unique Olympic Theater, world heritage and one of the most awesome of Palladio’s works causes deep impressions in the visitors. Clearly inspired in the classic GreekRoman tradition, Palladio brought their elements to create this place for art and emotion. The ispiration came clearly from what Vetruvio said about the Roman’s theater. A semicircular stand with footsteps opposite to a stage with big marble scenic wall composed by 2 architectonic orders with columns and statues. Palladio died in follow year and could not see the theater completed. The work was done by his son and concluded in 1583. The opening was a encenation of a Greek Tragedy, King Edipo, by Sofocles. The scenography by Scamozzi, simulated streets of Thebes behind of special gates in the wall. It was so well done that became part of the theater since then. Perfect acoustic, comfortable sit and breathtaking visual, an unforgetable experience. It is a must.
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clap clap clap clap
{
c’è tanta bellezza che fa male
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Aperitivo in Terraza Basilica
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icenza offers many options for those interested to relax after a hard day of work or just enjoy good moments with family and friends. The top of the Basilica is the coolest spot without any doubt. A big open space with bar, live music and a breathtaking view of Piazza dei Signori and Monte Berico excites visitors who spend pleasant hours admiring the big Bissara Tower, the San Mark columns and the unforgetable Venetian sunsets.
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so coool! troppo figo!
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Spend the night around
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fter sundown, the streets of the storic center around Piazza dei Signori and Corso Palladio comes crowded by people of every age searching pleasant moments with friends. The bars and restaurants become full and all you will hear are loud funny conversations and the classic noise of glasses and bottles being used. The
street closed to the post office receives many youngs around the small bar and stay full until late night. Near from there, the bars of ContrĂ Pescherie offes lounge music to please their clients and the restaurants of Piazzetta Palladio serves fine wine. Walking through Piazza dei Signori, you will check some Jazz sessions on a crowded Bar Borsa and little closer all bars and enotecas from Piazza Biade in effervescent movement. Yeah, the night here promises joy and amusement!
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let’s spend the night togheter!
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Lunch in Basilica
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esides all nice lunch options as the traditional Il Righetto, close to the Post Office, or the cool La Piazzetta, in front of the Duomo, there is an excellent option inside the Basilica, Bar Borsa. It is a new place that quickly attracted the Vicentine due to its exquisite menu, fine service, cool music and cool decoration. The spot by itself is fantastic. It occupies the space of the old botteghes that once worked there selling everything. It is surrounded by jewelleries and fine shops and the decoration preserves this spirit of commerce with wine bottles being exposed. There is also a small space to live music where lounge and jazz sessions often takes place at night. The waiters are very kind and the food is great. Try the local beer, a dark fine larger and some pasta, meat dishes or just a delicious burger. Worths it!
what a suggestive place
the bier was fan tastic!
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Visit the museums
Pinacoteca Palazzo Chiericati
O
ne of the most celebrated of Palladio’s works, Palazzo Chiericati remains a symbol of the classical architecture and symbol of Vicenza. It is located in Piazza Matteotti very close to the Olympic Theater and not so far from Bacchiglione River and Ponte degli Angeli. It was projected in 1550 to be the residence of the Chiericati, a nobile family. Palladio idealized a house with 2 sets of columns, doric style in the first floor and ionic in the second. To explore the advantage of the pretty view of the localization, the imagined a loggia in each extremity of the second floor. The interior is richly adorned with struccos and frescoes made by artists as Ridolfi, Zelotti, Fasolo, Forbicini and Battista Franco. It became property of the city in 1855 as the Civic Museum and nowadays houses a huge collection of paintings, statues, coins and others.
Museo Arte Settencesca
Palazzo Leoni
Montanari
T
his gorgeous building placed in the same street of the Santa Corona church and the Archeological Museum houses nowadays part of the art collection of Intesa San Paolo, one of the biggest Italian Banks. The palace was projected by the Lombard architect Marchi for the Montanari, a wealthy family owner of an significative wool industry in 1678. It is a
by Palladio. The interior, the rooms and the cortile still keeps astonished the visitors in face of the richness and opulence of the decoration. The high quality of the frescoes and stucco about Greek-Roman Mithology stories in the ceiling, work by Alberti, Marignali and the French Dorigny, makes deep impression. Naturally, a perfect place to exhibits the rich collection of paintings inclunding a fine Tiepolo and a splendid view of the medieval
rare Baroque style building in a classicist Vicenza so influenced
Vicenza -, Greek amphoras and Russian catholic icons.
T
he Palladio Museum, dedicated to his life and work, is obviously located in a palace projected in 1569 by himself, Palazzo Barbarano da Porto, an imponent building in maneristic style. It is an ellegant two floor building in two architectonical orders with 9 spans and columns in the facade and a big atrium inside ordered by the Porto, another rich Vicentine family. Today, it holds the museum and an International architecture center.
Museo Palladio
Grazie Mille,
Vicenza
Thank you to make me learn to give without receive. Thank you to make me learn to search the real soul. Thank you to embrace paciently my desires and offer me your secrets.