WINERIES
OF
VENETO PABLO DE MELLO
VENETO, WHERE WINELOVERS FIND THEIR WAY!
WINERIES
OF
VENETO
photos and graphics Pablo de Mello 2014
6
Wineries of Veneto
VENETO is a substantial and increasingly important wine region in the north-eastern corner of Italy. Administratively it forms part of the Triveneto zone, along with its smaller neighbors Trentino-Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. In terms of geography, culture and wine styles, it represents a transition between the alpine, Germano-Slavic end of Italy and the warmer, drier, more Roman lands to the south. Veneto is slightly smaller than Italy’s other main wine-producing regions – Piedmont, Tuscany, Lombardy, Puglia and Sicily – yet it generates more wine than any of them. Although the southern regions Sicily and Puglia were for a long time Italy’s main wine producers, this balance began to shift north towards Veneto in the latter half of the 20th century. In the 1990s, southern Italian wine languished in an increasingly competitive and demanding world, while Veneto upped its game, gaining recognition with such wines as Valpolicella, Amarone, Soave and Prosecco. With fruity red Valpolicella complementing its intense Amarone and sweet Recioto counterparts, Veneto is armed with a formidable portfolio of red wines to complement its refreshing whites such as Soave and sparkling Prosecco. Although much of the new vineyard area which supported Veneto’s increased wine output was of questionable viticultural quality, today more than 25% of the region’s wine is made and sold under DOC/DOCG titles. The Veneto region can be roughly split into three geographical areas, distinguished by their topography and geology. In the north-west the foothills of the Alps descend along the eastern edge of Lake Garda, their path mirrored
Introduction
7
{
VENETO IS AMONG THE FOREMOST WINE-PRODUCING REGIONS, BOTH FOR QUALITY AND QUANTITY. THE REGION COUNTS OVER 20 DOC
by the Adige river as it descends from the heights of Alto Adige. Here in the
and stylistically. Garganega and
cooler, alpine-influenced climate, fresh, crisp whites are made under the Bianco
Trebbiano are the key white-wine
di Custoza and Garda titles, while refreshing, unassuming Bardolino from the
grape varieties here, while Corvina,
shores of Lake Garda makes the case for Veneto’s lightest reds. Just east of the
Molinara and Rondinella are behind
lake and north of Verona is Valpolicella and its sub-region Valpantena: the fabled
the vast majority of reds.
‘Valley of Many Cellars’ produces half a million hectoliters of fruity red wine every vintage. In terms of production volume, Valpolicella is the only DOC to
and Padua, are the Colli Berici, Colli
rival Tuscany’s famous Chianti.
Euganei and Breganze. Although the
Immediately east of Valpolicella is Soave, home to the eponymous dry white
8
In central Veneto, around Vicenza
plains below these hills produce vast
wine which now ranks among Italy’s most famous products, and beyond that
quantities of wine, only the better-
Gambellara serves as an eastern extension of Soave, both geographically
quality wines from more elevated
Wineries of Veneto
Vineyard in Montecchio Maggiore, Colli Vicentini DOC zone
ZONES AND A VARIETY OF SUB-CATEGORIES, MANY OF ITS WINES, BOTH DRY AND SPUMANTI, ARE INTERNATIONALLY KNOWN AND APPRECIATED. areas have gained DOC status. International varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet
Whatever the future holds for
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Nero and even Carmenere have proved
the region and its wine, the Vs of
successful here, as has northern Italy’s flagship white Pinot Grigio and Veneto’s
Veneto have made their mark on
own Tocai Friulano.
this era of wine history. The names
In the north-eastern corner of the region, on either side of the Piave river
}
Veneto, Verona, Vicenza, Valpolicella,
(which has its own Piave DOC covering the land between Conegliano and the
Valpantena and Valdobbiadene have
coast), sparkling Prosecco reigns supreme. Still wines are also made here (Lison,
emerged with vigor into the 21st
Lison-Pramaggiore, Montello e Colli Asolani and Colli di Conegliano), but the
century, and now even the historic
common factor which unites almost all viticultural zones in north-eastern
canal city of Venice has its own DOC.
Veneto is the Glera grape (typically known as Prosecco), and the foaming spumante and semi-sparkling frizzante wines it creates.
Introduction
9
ADRIATIC SEA
BREGANZE SOAVE VALPOLICELLA BARDOLINO
VIC
CUSTOZA VERONA
GAMBELLARA COLLI BERICI COLLI EUGANEI
P
BELLUNO VALDOBBIADENE
TREVISO
CENZA
PADOVA
VENICE
ROVIGO
WINE MAP
12
DOCG WINES
DOC WINES
- Amarone della Valpolicella - Bagnoli Friularo or Friularo di Bagnoli - Bardolino Superiore - Colli Asolani - Prosecco o Asolo - Prosecco -Colli di Conegliano - Colli Euganei Fior d’Arancio or Fior d’Arancio - Colli Euganei - Conegliano Valdobbiadene - Prosecco Conegliano - Prosecco or Valdobbiadene Prosecco - Lison - Montello rosso or Montello - Piave Malanotte or Malanotte del Piave - Recioto della Valpolicella - Recioto di Gambellara - Recioto di Soave - Soave Superiore
- Arcole - Bagnoli di Sopra or Bagnoli - Bardolino - Bianco di Custoza or Custoza - Breganze - Colli Berici - Colli Euganei - Corti Benedettine del Padovano - Gambellara - Garda - Lessini Durello or Durello Lessini - Lison - Pramaggiore - Lugana - Merlara - Montello - Colli Asolani - Monti Lessini - Piave
Wineries of Veneto
WINE LABELS
IGT WINES - Prosecco - Riviera del Brenta - San Martino della Battaglia - Soave - Valdadige - Valdadige Terradeiforti or Terradeiforti - Valpolicella - Valpolicella Ripasso - Venezia - Vicenza - Vigneti della Serenissima or Serenissima
- Alto Livenza - Colli Trevigiani - Conselvano - Delle Venezie - Marca Trevigiana - Vallagarina - Veneto - Veneto Orientale - Verona or Provincia di Verona o Veronese - Vigneti delle Dolomiti
Introduction
13
CONT
VALPOLICELLA
16
SOAVE
37
5
COLLI VI
TENTS
57
ICENTINI
89 BREGANZE
73 COLLI BERICI
V
alpolicella is the most
just style, however; in the past few decades
famous wine district in
Valpolicella has suffered from the same poor
north-eastern Italy’s
reputation as Beaujolais, the result of ever-
Veneto wine region. It’s
increasing yields and inconsistent quality.
not hard to understand
The Valpolicella production area
why, given the easy-drinking appeal of
ballooned in the late 1960s when it was
regular red Valpolicella, coupled with the
granted DOC status, resulting in a dramatic
prestige of its powerful and intensely
see-saw of quality and quantity which lasted
flavored counterpart Amarone della
for approximately 40 years. The prices
Valpolicella. The valley even produces white
fetched by Valpolicella wines reached their
wines – both dry and sweet – under the
nadir in the 1970s and 1980s, when the
various Soave titles.
low price paid per kilo of grapes led more
Everyday Valpolicella wine is a bright,
quality-focused producers, particularly
tangy, fruity red with aromas of blueberries
in the finer Valpolicella Classico and
and banana, and the distinctive ‘sour cherry’
Valpantena zones, to abandon their vines
note found in so many northern Italian
altogether. This increased the percentage
reds. It is as enjoyable at room temperature
of Valpolicella which came from the poorer
as it is slightly chilled, making it ideal as a
sites, and the downward spiral continued,
refreshing red for warm summer afternoons.
only to be halted by a sudden spike of
As a refreshing, medium-bodied wine it is
interest in Amarone della Valpolicella during
quite different from the district’s Ripasso,
the 1990s.
Amarone (‘big bitter’) and Recioto (‘little ear’) wines. Stylistically speaking, Valpolicella might
The grapes used to make Valpolicella are Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Corvina is generally regarded as the finest of the
easily be viewed as the Italian answer to
three, and is certainly the most traditional.
Beaujolais. The comparison extends beyond
Rondinella proved popular in the 1960s and
VALPOLICELLA REGION ADIGE RIVER
FUMANE
MARANO VALGATARA GREZZANA QUINTO
ILLASI
NEGRAR
S. GIORGIO
S. FLORIANO
S. AMBROGIO
TREGNANO
CAZZANO COLOGNOLA
S. PIETRO
S. MARTINO PEDEMONTE
19
Wineries of Veneto
VERONA
POIANO
and 1970s because of its generous yields, while pale, over-acidic, oxidation-prone Molinara has declined dramatically since its early surge. Corvina remains the grape of choice for higher-quality Valpolicella, and particularly Amarone della Valpolicella, Recioto della Valpolicella and Valpolicella Ripasso. On warmer, well-drained slopes, Corvina produces wines with more body than is traditionally expected of Valpolicella, which explains the huge quality differential between regular Valpolicella from the plains and Amarone from the hills of the traditional classico zone. The Valpolicella viticultural area spans a considerable chunk of western Veneto, stretching north into the hills above Verona for approximately ten miles, and east to west for more than twice that distance, linking Soave with Bardolino. The finest terroir is to be found in the north of the classico zone, around the villages of Fumane, Marano and Negrar. The hamlet of Gargagnago is also home to some of the region’s finest vines, although it is better known as the spiritual home of Garganega, the white grape behind the white wines of Soave and Gambellara. The hills here rise more than 2000ft (610m) into the fresh sub-alpine air, creating a patchwork of aspects facing in every direction and making the most of the
*
northern Italian sunshine. Because standard Valpolicella wines have traditionally tended towards the lighter end of the
VALPOLICELLA’S
spectrum, local winemakers have employed various
WINES ARE SOME
in their cuvees. The passito and ripasso methods
OF ITALY’S BEST KNOWN EXPORTS AND HAVE LONG BEEN ASSOCIATED WITH EMINENTLY DRINKABLE WINES
techniques to achieve greater depth and complexity have been so successful that both techniques now have dedicated DOC titles (DOCG in the case of the passito Amarone and Recioto wines). For a passito wine the grapes are dried out for weeks or even months prior to fermentation, during which time their natural sugars and flavors become sufficiently concentrated to produce deeper, more alcoholic wines. The ripasso method is to ‘re-pass’ (re-ferment) the passito grapes with standard Valpolicella wine, creating a deeper, more character-laden result. The style was given its own independent DOC title, Valpolicella Ripasso, in 2007.
Valpolicella
20
CANT
MA
TINA
AZZI
I
lived in Florence for more than a year and made
Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella. These zones actually
some shy movements in the rich Tuscan wine
are counties placed in green valleys, and they are
world. There were some gorgeous trips to fine
situated between Garda Lake and Verona.
Cantinas as Frescobaldi and Verrazzano, placed
My first idea was to visit Cantina Bolla, one of my
in awesome castles in unforgetable zones. It was
favorite Italin wineries, but I realised that it is difficult
a first contact that touched me very deeply because of
to arrive without car. In my case, once I can’t drive
the passion and care with the wine industry is taken here
because my license is over, I should take a train to the
in Italy. I confess I felt in love almost immediately.
nearest train station and then go by bus or bike. After
Then, I moved to the north, to Vicenza, this lovely city inf the rich and gorgeous Veneto region. Slowly, I was
my eye: Cantina Negrar, in the county with the same
discovering all wine treasures they have around. And I
name, and part of the prestigious zone. Ok. The next
decided to explore them with more care and method.
step was to check the weather and plan it.
And then came the opportunity to visit Valpolicella
24
some research, I found a special winery that catched
Valpolicella’s name has unclear origins. It is said
zone. I had some difficult to find a Cantina to explore,
to be a latin name, Vallis-pollis-cellae, meaning ‘land
after all, there are more than 5 different regions that
of many cantinas’. Others says the name comes from
composes what became Valpolicella Classico: Fumane,
the latin word pullus and would be related to a place
Marano di Valpolicella, Negrar, San Pietro in Cariano and
with forests, with many plants. There is also policella
Wineries of Veneto
meaning many fruits. In any case, all of them shows us directly a region rich and fertile. Valpolicella is being occupied since stone age because
For all this history, I thought a visit to the Cantina Negrar would be a rich experience. Well, unfortunatelly it was not like that. Only groups up to
its important connection from the Pianura, the Italian
10 people are allowed to visit all place. In my case, it
plain zone, to the Alps. In fact, there were found some
was only possible to make a degustation. For me it
traces of a Neanderthal man in a cave in Fumane. Later, it
would be fine. But when I just arrived, the reception
was inhabited by the Arusnati, an Etrusc people, and then
was rude and unpolite. My wife and I felt immediatly
by the Romans. There was always the presence of wine
discomfort and a lack of attention. So, we shot some
production in the zone due to its special terroir, a rich
pictures and left the place without taste nothing. The
blend of limestone and volcanic soil and also the mix of
day was beautiful and there is a cantina closed that I
warm and wet weather.
planned to visit. It is a beautiful place. All vineyards
This gifted combination of ground and weather gives
full. Well, as we arrived in Cantina Salgari, we were
advantages to the grape cultivation. And there are three
asked what we want. Hahahha. They were working in
special native fruits that makes all Valpolicella wines
the crop. Simple like that. There was no one to take
respected reputation: Corvina, up to 70% in Valpolicella
care of visitors at that moment. Strange and funny.
DOC blend, Rondinella and Molinara, both of them 15%
In this way, our wine trip suddenly was in risk.
of it.
However, we decided to walk a while. Those cantinas
Valpolicella
25
are in front of the movemented road. There were many tractors pulling carts full of grapes. We walk for a while
We immediately started to explore the area taking
and took a street where there was a charming oratory
photos when came Antonio, tall and very gentle,
between two cipresses. Few meters ahead, a beautiful
giving us the welcome. After all, we finally found our
church made our mind and we forgot the recent insucess.
place. So, we talked a while about the winery, the
There was a map indicating places and cantinas and we
grapes and the crop, the weather and came to taste
chosen to make a visit to one of them.
their products.
Strangely, things started to get better. As we were
Inside the shop, there were available Valpolicella,
walking, beautiful landscapes were coming to be shown.
Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone and
Many vineyards all around. A lovely old church just over
Recioto. It is an old room, fully decorated with
there with some marry decoration.
production wine related things and old bottles, the
And, crazy like this, we finally arrived to the Cantina
first ones made by his father. An amazing poster
Mazzi. It is a small winery in San Peretto fraction, a zone
designed by Manara, worldwide Italian cartoonist,
of the Negrar territory. It is led by the third generation of
famous for his trace and sexy stories, gave the final
the Mazzi family who started in 1960 by Signore Roberto
charming highlight. We took one poster, of course!
and now runned buy his sons, Antonio and Roberto. The place is a lovely property almost hidden in the
26
which was the storical purpose of the factory.
The experience was like climbing a mountain. As we tasted the different wines, we could feel the
vineyards that houses a charming building where the
power of the Corvina and Rondinela grapes. The care
shop, the cellar, the restaurant and the bed and breakfast
of the drying and ageeing process. The velvet body
works; the winery and all its vats and a historic mill,
filling our mouths. And the conversation was very
Wineries of Veneto
pleasant either. Amarone completed the sequence with its complex and exquisite power. We ended it with the sweet Recioto, an Amarone wine with more sugar. Fantastic! The next step was to visit the cellar. It is very particular, very charming, very well done in a traditional way. It was all we wanted to see. That
A FAMILIAR COMPANY RUNNING IN THE VERY HEART OF VALPOLICELLA
characteristc smell of umidity. Cold. Many old bottles in a rough place made by stone and bricks. And then coming all oak barrells. Amazing. It s a prize to those who admires care and work, art and passion. Many photos later, we visited the inox vats and the producing zone. Its small size could keep its charm. Then we took some bottles, pay and left the place very satisfyed. Minutes later, we took the bus back to Verona to have a lunch in the famous Antica Bottega del Vino restaurant, another fantastic experience.
Valpolicella
27
THE SHOP
28
Wineries of Veneto
THE WINES
Valpolicella Classico
Valpolicella
Valpolicella Classico
Amarone della
Recioto della
Classico
Classico Superiore
Superiore “Poiega”
Valpolicella “Punta
Valpolicella “Le
Blend of Corvina,
“Sanperetto” 2012
Blend of Corvina,
di Villa”
Calcarole”
Rondinella and Molinara
Blend of Corvina,
Rondinella and Molinara
Blend of Corvina,
Blend of Corvina,
grapes.
Rondinella and Molinara
grapes crushed in
Rondinella and Molinara
Rondinella and Molinara
Of intense ruby red
grapes.
November.
grapes. The colour is
grapes. Of intense ruby
colour with fruity aromas
Ruby red in colour with
Of intense ruby red
deep ruby red with
red colour, with aromas
of cherry and ripe
aromas of cherry, violet
colour with aromas of
aromas of jam, dried
of red berry fruit jam
plum. The flavour is full,
and pepper. The taste is
cherry and ripe plum.
flowers, tobacco and
and spices. The taste is
balanced and persis tent
round, slightly tart with
The flavour is full,
chocolate which add to
round, warm and inviting,
with slightly bitter.
slightly bitter after taste.
balanced and persistent.
the velvety taste.
very persistent finish
13% Alcohol content.
13% Alcohol content.
14% Alcohol content.
15,5% Alcohol content.
with typical slightly bitter
Valpolicella
29
THE CELLAR
30
Wineries of Veneto
“ �
Mazzi has been producing wine in the Valpolicella region For 100 years, a family business that seems to get better with every passing generation their Valpolicellas are among the most respected of all.
T
he winery produces about a hundred thousand
bottles each year, ten of them of the precious Amarone, using stainless inox vats for fermentation and French oak barrels for ageing. The passito and passionamento processes are accurately used to get the perfect wine.
Valpolicella
31
THE PRODUCTION
32
Wineries of Veneto
THE OLD MILL
Valpolicella
33
CANTINA MAZZI SocietĂ Agricola Roberto Mazzi e Figli Via Crosetta, 8 - San Peretto 37024 Negrar (VR) Telephone +39 045 7502072 www. robertomazzi.it info@robertomazzi.it
*
THERE ARE RECORDS PROVING THAT THE VINE WAS GROWN IN THE AREA SINCE ROMAN TIME. SOAVE WAS A QUITE IMPORTANT ROMAN VILLAGE ALONG THE VIA POSTUMIA, ONE OF THE MAIN ROMAN ROADS IN NORTHERN ITALY
S
oave is arguably the most famous white-wine DOC in Italy. Granted in 1968, the DOC title covers wines made from Garganega grapes grown on
the hillsides east of Verona, in the Veneto wine region of north-eastern Italy. A dry, crisp, fruity white wine, Soave’s naturally refreshing appeal led it to phenomenal popularity in the second half of the 20th century. Ask any wine drinker to name a well-known Italian wine, and their answer will almost certainly be either Pinot Grigio or Soave. Names such as Gavi, Orvieto and Frascati might also figure on the list, but the sheer volume of Soave which has made its way out of Veneto in recent decades has drowned out the competition. The fact that Pinot Grigio figures alongside Soave as one of the most famous Italian wines is a sign of the times. It is a sign of the power shift from Old World to New World, a change in focus from village to vine, terroir to varietal. For now, though, the DOC system survives, and is adapting year by year to the demands of the variety-led modern wine consumer. As with Chianti, whose wine might be viewed as Soave’s red equivalent, the quantity of Soave wine produced every vintage is much more consistent than its quality. The natural temptation to drive for higher yields (and thus higher turnover) has led many Soave producers to favor volume over value, to the eventual detriment of the Soave brand. The consequences of this have taken many years to filter through, but the negative effects
SAN GIOVANNI ILLARIONE
SOAVE REGION
MONTECCHIA DI CROSARA
SOAVE SOAVE CLASSICO
MEZZANE CAZZANO RONCÀ ILLASI
MONTEFORTE LAVAGNO CALDIERO
SOAVE COLOGNOLA
* 40
Wineries of Veneto
THE CHARACTERISTIC VOLCANIC SOIL OF THESE AREAS IS AN IMPORTANT ELEMENT IN THE CREATION OF A TYPICAL WELL BALANCED MINERAL PALATE.
are now being felt, and change is needed. In the hands of a quality-conscious producer Garganega can make classic white wines, both complex and satisfying; now that Trebbiano Toscano and Pinot Bianco have been removed from the official Soave blend, the variety’s natural potential can shine through. Garganega grapes must now constitute at least 70% of any modern Soave wine, accompanied by a maximum of 30% Chardonnay and Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio). Although Soave is widely thought of as a still wine, there is also a foaming Soave Spumante version. The area also produces sweet wines under the Recioto di Soave DOCG. These are based on the same uvaggio (grape makeup) as standard, still, dry Soave, and the delimited production areas are also roughly the same. The official catchment area for Soave wine production covers the communes of Monteforte d’Alpone, San Martino Buon Albergo, Mezzane di Sotto, Ronca, Montecchia di Crosara, San Giovanni Ilarione, San Bonifacio, Cazzano di Tramigna, Colognola ai Colli, Caldiero, Illasi, Lavagno and Soave itself. The production area was significantly expanded when the Soave DOC laws were drawn up, and it now covers about three times its former area. Wines from the original, ‘classic’ Soave vineyard area are distinguished by the title Soave Classico. Wines labeled as Soave Colli Scaligeri are from hillside vineyards whose terroir is considered superior but which lie outside the official Soave Classico zone. In order to address the falling quality of Soave wines, and to provide distinction between the quality levels, the Soave Superiore DOCG was drafted in October 2001 and put into effect as of the 2002 vintage. See Soave Superiore for details.
Soave
41
CANT
MONTE
TINA
TONDO
T
here are some notorious wineries as Cantina del Soave and Monte Tondo. I
I jumped off the train and quickly arrived at the
thought with myself that I should come
center of San Bonifacio, a charming industrial city
back to fix that mistake. And visit another
near to Soave and Verona. Soon, I took the way to
place, La Cantina di Monforte d’Alpone, a
Soave and in few moments could smell that particular
small city very close to Soave that produces DOCs and
parfum of moist all around. Imediatelly, remembered
some DOCG as Valpolicella and Amarone. The reason
about a cantina in the way, Cantina dei Colli Berici
was that I tasted their fine Amarone and wanted to know
San Bonifacio. I tryed to visit them but it was at the
them better. The last step would be a magnificent villa
lunch time and everything was closed except the
in the top of a hill, La Favorita, that caught my attention
grapes discharge operations.
while I was coming to Vicenza by train in a previous moment. The idea was to arrive in San Bonifacio by train and
Ok. Took my way back, passing through some beautiful spots as the old Villanova church. I read it was built over a pagan oak tree where druids made
then make all connections by bike finishing in Montebello,
their ceremonies before the Romans. Near, there is a
20 km from Vicenza.
huge abandoned factory, all bricked, really amazing.
So, the day was pretty beautiful and the sun still warm although blowed some cold wind announcing the winter coming. I was excited with the idea to drink and cycle in
44
that amazing zone.
Wineries of Veneto
Few meters ahead, we can see the firsts sights of the Soave hills. Beautiful landscape. I took a road that crossed the
*
THREE GENERATIONS HAVE HANDED DOWN THE PRECIOUS ART OF WINE-MAKING BORN FROM A LOVE FOR THEIR LAND AND THEIR ROOTS TOGETHER WITH THE KNOWLEDGE THROUGH HARD WORK AND DETERMINATION
busy A4 highway, connecting Milan to Venice, and in few
join a group of visitors that was arriving. We started
moments I arrived at the Monte Tondo winery.
with a light Soave Classico. Very good.
It is a big and charming yellow building surrounded by vineyards in the feet of the hills. Very suggestive location. Monte Tondo is a respected winery that produces
Then, came some Casette Foscarin, another Soave and remarkably floreal. Next, their fine Amarone, very complex with a good finish. We also tasted the
many different wines, since basic Soave white wines
sweet Nettare di Bacco, an amazing Recioto, and
to Valpolicella’s Recioto, and also olive oil, honey and
finish it with another special Recioto, aged in the
grappa. They also run a bread and breakfast business
barrell with a particolary charater.
there. In the main acess of the pavillion, an all brick space,
We started very well the journey. It was an interesting sequence of fine wines, each one keeping
there are some old wine prodution tools as mills, wood
high the reputation of the winery. The visit started
barrells and an ox car. Very interesting and pitoresque.
few later. Mrs. Marta was talking about the winey.
We enter the cantina by the shop, a large clean room
She is the second generation of the Magnabosco
with many stands disposing their products. Closed, there
family that started the production in the middle of
is the dinning room, where the tasting takes place and
the XX century. The company owns vineyards in
also the subterranean cellar.
Monte Tondo and Monte Foscarini hills, in Soave
Quickly, came Mrs. Marta to give me the welcome and talk about their history. I would make a tasting and then
and also in the Valpolicella zone. Nowadays, they produces about 200 thousand bottles every year.
Soave
45
THE SHOP
{
MONTE TONDO WINERY IS PASSIONATE THAT THEIR SOAVE SHOULD BE 100% GARGANEGA, AND WITH EXCEPTION TO CASETTE FOSCRIN ALL THEIR SOAVES ARE.
The, we arrived in the discharge area. Mrs. Marta
biggers for the Soave Classico. Curiously, there were
show us interesting aspects of the production cycle, from
some cups containing the different ground of their
its beginning until the aging. In that moment, there was
vineyards, some calcareous and volcanic earth from
none tractor bringing the grapes althoug there were
the Soave area and also from Valpolicella.
some everywhere.
She explained that they are allowed to take
Everything is very organized and clean. Then, we
their Corvina, Corvinona and Rondinella grapes to
arrived to the fermentation area where many high inox
be dryed there in Soave in order to produce their
steel vats keeps all wines. Unfortunatelly, we could not
Valpolicela different wines.
see the apassimento process because they were fixing a
The visit finished for me at that moment. It was
problem in that sector. I confess I was very curious to see
tme to say goodbye to Monte Tondo winery and take
their grapes. Ok.
the way to a quick visit to the city of Soave to take
Then, we visit the bottling sector and also the special
46
}
some pictures in a diferent angle. The panorama with
cellar, a very large space downstairs housing many
the road, the vineyards and the castle over the hill
French barrells. The smallers for Amarone and the
under that afternoon sun light is unforgetable.
Wineries of Veneto
THE WINES
M
onte Tondo are
vineyard is on ‘Monte Tondo Hill’
proud to produce
which is shown on the label.
bottle which adds a lovely richness. Foscarin Slavinus is the only wine
wines from any
Monte Tondo produce a second
of their 25ha of
wine from the Soave DOC Classico
denominazione Soave Superiore
vines planted all
denominazione, however Casette
DOCG Classico. 100% Garganega
over Soave in the various zones of
Foscarin contains 10% Trebbiano di
this is a late harvest wine, end of
Soave.
Soave. When Monte Tondo inherited
October early November. Left to 30%
this vineyard the previous producer
fermentation in steel tanks the wine is
produced in 5ha of Soave DOC. 100%
had planted Trebbiano di Soave vines
then moved to oak barrels for 25 days
Garganega the Mito is an extremely
throughout the Garganega vines.
before it is moved back to tanks for
fresh wine with an intense nose of
Marta and her family kept the vines
the remainder of the year and aged in
peach and a wonderful acidity. A
to keep the history of the vineyard
bottle for 6 months before going to
perfect everyday wine!
intact. This vineyard also has small
market. This is a truly fantastic wine
Soave Classico is produced in a
houses throughout which the farmers
with an unbelievable richness, a palate
smaller denominazione within Soave,
have used for centuries to allow them
full of peach it is certainly a wine that
Soave DOC Classico. Again 100%
to harvest right up to darkness and
wouldn’t disappoint any wine lover.
Garganega this wine has hints of
avoid walking back to the village. This
almond on the palate, still maintaining
is the first wine that Monte Tondo age
Grigio which has all characteristics of
that wonderful freshness. The
before selling; 6 months minimum in
Pinot Grigio but in a Soave style.
Soave Mito is their entry level wine
Monte Tondo produce within the
Monte Tondo also produces a Pinot
Soave
47
THE MUSEUM
48
Wineries of Veneto
Soave
49
THE PRODUCTION
50
Wineries of Veneto
Soave
51
THE CELLAR
52
Wineries of Veneto
THE RESTAURANT
Soave
53
CANTINA MONTE TONDO Azienda Agricola Monte Tondo Via San Lorenzo, 89 37038 Soave (VR) Telephone +39 045 7680347 www.montetondo.it info@montetondo.it
V
icenza is a DOC of the Veneto wine region of north-eastern Italy. Its name is that of Veneto’s fourth-largest
municipality and also of the eponymous province of which it is the administrative center. Geographically, it is the central V of the ‘three Vs’ which are collectively responsible for the vast majority of Veneto’s wine: Verona (by far the most significant of the three), Vicenza and Venezia. The Vicenza DOC title, granted in 2000, covers almost the entire Vicenza province, including the land already covered by the Gambellara and Monti Lessini DOCs in the west and the Colli Berici, which occupy the southern fifth of the province (the hilly area immediately south of Vicenza town). Vicenza lies at the foot of the Colli Berici hills, whose northernmost point, Monte Berico, overlooks the town’s streets and houses. The Basilica di Santa Maria di Monte Berico stands atop the hill, constructed around the year 1430 following two separate sightings of the Virgin Mary, who ordered the church’s construction. The Bacchiglione river flows north-south through Vicenza, en route from the Alps to the Adriatic. The river’s water quality has recently fallen to dangerously low levels.
VICENZA DOC REGION
VICENZA
SOVIZZO CREAZZO
ALTAVILLA MONTECCHIO MAGGIORE
BACCHIGLIONE RIVER
The volumes of animal fertilizer washing into the river from its extensive watershed have caused the river to become highly contaminated. Although the province’s finer vineyard sites are located higher up on the slopes, there are a number of vineyards, notably around the southern side of Vicenza town, sufficiently close to the river to warrant attention. The Vicenza wine portfolio holds few surprises for wine students. Its red and white (rosso and bianco) blends are a pre-requisite for modern Italian DOCs, and are based on Merlot and Garganega respectively. The varietals produced under the title are made from the usual suspects, and draw on both international and lesserknown local varieties. The reds are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Carmenere (these three may also be combined to produce the ‘varietal’ wine named ‘Vicenza Cabernet’), Merlot, Pinot Nero and the local favorite Raboso; the whites are Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Moscato, Riesling and two northern Italian specialties, Garganega and Manzoni Bianco. Interestingly, the Moscato may be made from Moscato Bianco and/or Moscato Giallo, and the Riesling can be either true German Riesling (known here as Riesling Renano) or Riesling Italico (Welschriesling).
CANT
COLLI VI
TINA
ICENTINI
*
A WINERYI N THE HEART OF AN AREA RENOWNED FOR ITS ANCIENT QUALIFIED VINE-GROWING TRADITION
C
antina Colli Vicentini is placed in
very particular. I started the tour in the shop. It is a
Montecchio Maggiore, a comune of the
huge warehouse with many boxes in the middle and
Vicenza’s Province, 11 kilometers far
some tables and shelves around. In a table, there
from Vicenza and very close to the road
are some bottle of different wines that you can
that leaves to Verona. It is a big cantina, a
experiment.
company that begun as a society of local grape producers and became an industry catalyzing the production into
clients can fill their bottles or carboy. It was funny
DOC products as Colli, Vicenza, Gambelara and Lessini
when came many clients pushing carts with bottles
wines.
up, chosen the desired wine and served themselves.
The visitor will find a big structure close to the Romeo castle – we can observe it behind – where the shop and offices comes first and the production local placed in the bottom. Once we arrive is possible to get the intense smell of grape and its subproducts, something sweet, fruity and
64
Back, there were many self-service pumps where
Wineries of Veneto
Then, they weigthed the bottle and pay to the employee. Simple like that. I waited all clients gone to ask the serious employee if I could help in the harvest. Well, he said it is being done by the local producers and they hardly pick outsider. Then, just left me to ask if could
visit the production area and take some some pictures.
pumped to be crushed, fermented, pressed, filtered
Hehehe!
and put in the barrels to age, well, the traditional
Ok, it was possible. And was very cool. I didn’t visited
method. It was nice to observe that almost sacred
all area because I was little bit embarassed to ask! But
moment once what I had view was those cool big
I could witness some downloads of grape. Comes the
wooden barrels with all wine. A lot information
tractor pushing a load car full of fresh Pinot Grigio grape
to reflex about the changing of the production
and it opens the lateral door from where comes all fruits.
technology and how important it is to the people who
First, the liquid and then the grapes. They were smaller
lives in these zones.
and almost all in a pale tone. There were a lot of insects as spiders, flys and bees.
After this short moment, I returned to the shop, bought some bottles of Merlot and left the place
The workers were very kind. Well, actually they found
with my many ideas! It was a very nice visit although
my presence curiouns and funny, after all, who would be
I didn’t find that atmosphere I was expecting. Missed
interested to be there in a day like that just to watch that
the personal approach to the place that we find in
simple process? Yeah, makes sense!
smaller cantinas. That’s ok.
Once the grapes are unload to the big tub, they are
Colli Vicentini
65
THE SHOP
66
Wineries of Veneto
THE WINES
Merlot Vicenza D.O.C.
Tai Rosso Colli Berici D.O.C. 2010
Cabernet Vicenza D.O.C. 2010
Braio Rosso Venezie IGT
Vinification in red. The
Merlot Vicenza D.O.C. 2010
Wine obtained from
Wine obtained from
Vinification and
grapes are destemmed
Merlot grapes
Tai rosso authocthon
Cabernet grapes
refinement:The grapes
and pressed.
Vineyards:
grapes
grown in hilly vineyards
are carefully hand-
Fermentation with
Wine obtained from
grown on Colli Berici
in the province of
picked up and withered
maceration of the grape
Merlot grapes grown
(Berici hills), an area of
Vicenza. 12% Alcohol
in the Fruttaio for two
skins in steel autoclaves
in hilly vineyards in the
volcanic
Colour: intense ruby red
months. The vinification
under controlled
Province of Vicenza
origin and an ancient
Bouquet: typical and
is carried out through
temperature at 24째-
12% Alcohol Colour:
wine-making tradition
intense with hints of
a prolonged skin
26째C. Refinement in
bright ruby red
12% Alcohol
spices. Taste: full bodied
contact at a controlled
steel and wood.
Bouquet: intense and
Colour: light ruby red.
and velvety, properly
temperature. At the end
Colour: bright ruby
elegant with scents of
Bouquet: distinctive
tannic. It is pairs well
of the fermentation the
red. Bouquet: intense
berries Taste: velvety,
and pleasant with a
with roasted red meat,
wine is poured into oak
and elegant aroma with
round and full-bodied
reminding of cherry
game and mature
barrels and casks where
scents of berries. Taste:
with hints of green
Taste: dry, full and well-
cheese. Characteristics:
it waits for one year by
harmonious, round and
pepper.
balanced with pleasant
with a light reminding of
achieving smoothness
notes of red fruits.
cocoa.
and unique notes.
full-bodied flavours with hints of pepper.
14% Alcohol.
Colli Vicentini
67
THE PRODUCTION
68
Wineries of Veneto
Colli Vicentini
69
CANTINA COLLI VICENTINI SocietĂ Cooperativa Agricola Viale Europa, 151 Montecchio Maggiore (Vicenza) Telephone +39 0444 491360 www.cantinacollivicentini.it info@cantinacollivicentini.it
*
THE ALMOST MYTHICAL ORIGINS OF THESE ANCIENT HILLS WERE CREATED BY THE WARM WATERS, NOW FOUND IN THE TROPICS, AND THE VOLCANIC ACTIVITY THAT FORMED THE LANDSCAPE WE ADMIRE TODAY. TOGETHER WITH THE TEMPERATE SEA CLIMATE AND THE PROTECTION OF THE MOUNTAINS, THE RESULT IS A VISUALLY STUNNING PANORAMA
C
olli Berici is a DOC of the
name are split evenly between red and
Veneto wine region in north-
white. The former category includes
eastern Italy. The title covers
Pinot Nero, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon,
a wide range of wine styles
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet (a combination
including red, white and rose
of the two), Carmenere and Tai Rosso.
(rosso, bianco and rosato) wines, a foaming
Their white equivalents are Chardonnay,
Colli Berici Spumante and a portfolio of
Garganega, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon, Tai and
varietal wines which reaches comfortably
Professor Luigi Manzoni’s Riesling–Pinot
into double figures.
Bianco hybrid Manzoni Bianco. For any of
The Colli Berici are a group of hills
these wines to bear the name of its variety,
(colli) which rise up from the alluvial plains
it must be made from at least 85% of the
just south of Vicenza, at the very heart of
stated grape.
Veneto. The name is taken from the hills’
Colli Berici Spumante is a metodo classico
most notable look-out, Monte Berico,
wine (made in the methode traditionelle),
which enjoys an impressive panoramic view
and comes in bianco and rosato forms.
over Vicenza city. The geological make-
Chardonnay must make up at least half of
up of the hills suggests they are part of an
these wines, with varying proportions of
ancient seabed, due to the prevalence of
Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero depending on
marine fossils (including corals, algae and
the desired color and flavor profile.
urchins) mixed with sand and mud as old as
Colli Berici Bianco comes not only in a
several million years. It also creates a terroir
still, dry form, but also in lightly sparkling
unlike almost any other in Veneto, whose
frizzante, foaming spumante and sweet,
topography is largely flat, and in which the
dried-grape passito forms. It is made from
only other hills are part of the lower Alps.
a minimum 50% base of Garganega, with
The Colli Berici cover roughly 64 square
the remaining proportion taken up with
miles (165 square km) of central Veneto.
any white grapes permitted under the
The most favored vineyard sites are on
DOC’s laws. Its Colli Berici Rosso equivalent
south-facing slopes with a high proportion
has Merlot at its core (also at a minimum
of gravels and marine deposits. This
of 50%), and comes in a youthful, early-
combination of a sunny, warm aspect and
drinking novello form and a pre-aged riserva
free-draining, mineral-rich soils is ideal for
form which must acquire an extra 2% final
creating full phenolic ripeness and mineral
alcohol and may only be released for sale
complexity in the Colli Berici wines. In
two years after harvest. The same riserva
fact, the Colli Berici DOC laws take care
conditions apply to each of the red varietals
to exclude land on the flood plains or at
made under this DOC.
the bottom of the valleys, and also land
The final wine style in this exhaustive
with peaty, sandy soils. The Colli Berici
portfolio is Colli Berici Barbarano, a title
mesoclimate is measurably milder than that
reserved for red wines (both still and
on the lower-lying land below; in fact it is so
spumante) from vineyards in the communes
mild that olive trees, more often associated
of Longare, Castegnero, Villaga, Mossano,
with warmer central and southern Italy,
Nanto and the Barbarano (Barbarano
flourish in the area.
Vicentino in full) cited in the title.
Varietals made under the Colli Berici
COLLI BERICI REGION VICENZA
BACCHIGLIONE RIVER
ARCUGNANO LONGARE BRENDOLA
MONTEBELLO
COSTOZZA
ZOVENCEDO
LUMIGNANO GRANCONA
CASTEGNERO BARBARANO
SAREGO
VILLAGA LONIGO
ALONTE
SOSSANO ORGIANO
*
THE D.O.C. WINE FROM THE BERICI HILLS CAN SATISFY EVEN THE MOST DEMANDING PALATE, PARTICULARLY IF ONE IS LOOKING FOR A COMBINATION OF BEAUTY AND ART FROM THE PALLADIO AND THE PRECIOUSNESS AND TASTE OF THE LOCAL CUISINE.
CANT
MUR
TINA
RARO
V
isit a winery of the Colli Berici would be my next target. But which one,
I live. It is about 12 km away. So, I decided with my
exactly? So, I found out Cantina
wife to make ‘una bella gita’, I mean, a beautiful trip
Muraro, a charming familiar winery
by bicycle. For our surprise, there is a fine bike lane
placed in Longare, a county of the
all the way, making it easy and delightful.
Province of Vicenza in the southeast of the Colli Berici.
Cycling in Italy is very funny and pleasant. There
It is a group of mountains that emerges in the Pianura
are many amazing routes to explore in all country.
Padana (the plain zone of the North of Italy) south
Here in Veneto, most of the territory is plain so it is
of Vicenza and northewst of Padova. It is a volcanic
easy to come and go to most of the cities. And there
formation that once was at the bottom of the sea
is a fantastic tradition of cycling. Everywhere you go
explaining the huge amount of fossils everywhere.
you can see people cycling, as sport or just going to
The limestone and other geological elements as water
work. It is quite safe. Drivers respect the bikers even
in the zone permits the millenary grape cultivation.
when you have to cycle in the side of the road. That’s
Today, the most popular varieties are the native Tai
why there are so many good bike brands here as
Rosso, Cabernet, Pinot and Merlot. The tradition and
Piranello or Willier. And, of course, that explains the
reputation of good production allowed the creation of
tradition of the Giro d’Italia, the most important bike
Vicenza DOC standard in 2000 and also the respected
competition together with Tour de France.
Colli Berici DOC.
80
Well, the cantina is not far from Vicenza, where
Wineries of Veneto
We took our bikes and quickly got the way to
*
“OUR LOCAL PRODUCTS WILL STARRING” S. MURARO
Longare passing by beautiful spots along the River
we were attended by Mr. Muraro, the son of the
Bacchiglione as the worldwide famous La Rotonda,
founder, and after gently words, he showed a little of
or Villa Capri, a fabulous palace designed by the
their place. The winery produces about 50 thousand
Renaissance architect Palladio. Few minutes later, we
bottles a year of different types of wine as Pinots
crossed the A4 highway that connects Milano to Venice.
Bianco and Grigio; Garganega and Chadornnay;
It was a beautiful evening. The day was quite clear and
Syrah, Barbera, Merlot, Cabernet and the Vicentine
the temperature very pleasant. Our way crossed many
native grape Tai Rosso. There are also some frizzanti
corn, grape and soy fields. Most of them already cropped.
wines as Prosecco and Moscato.
The amazing colors turning all to yellow and orange tones. About half hour later, we finally arrived to the Winery
The winery is a very simple place, a full white stone pavillion, probably Pietra di Vicenza, a calcareous stone very used by Palladio in his projects.
Muraro, in Costazza zone of Longare. It is closed to the
There are many stainless inox vats each one full of
road and there are some vinyards around. This small
a different product. The crusher is placed inside the
company produces wines since the end of the 30’s in a
pavillion as well as the cellar. It is a very pitoresque
familiar ambient.
place without any glamour of the wine industry that
We arrived at the afternoon and there were some work going on. Some clients buying here, an employee discharging pounds of tai grape from a vat there and
we sometimes cross by. We took some pictures around and took the way to Lumignano, another small city close to the rocks.
Colli Berici
81
THE PRODUCTION
82
Wineries of Veneto
Colli Berici
83
THE WINES
Vigna del Mago
Pinot Grigio
Cabernet
Wines aged in small
Wine made from white
Important wine of ruby
oak barrels. Made from
vinification of grapes of
red color with violet
Cabernet Sauvignon
the same name.
hues. The characteristic
and Franc in equal
Straw yellow with
herbaceous aroma,
proportion, as a young
greenish ashes.
with hints of fruits
looks red ruby.
Delicate, fruity
of raspberry and
To the scents of vanilla
reminiscent of ripe pear.
blueberry detect the
and wood are added
The taste is full and
strong character.
those of underbrush,
harmonious indicates
The flavor is dry, robust,
musk and wild plums.
it in good company of
tannic, it goes well with
The taste is full, vinous
appetizers, light pasta
tasty meat, poultry,
long.
dishes, preparation of
game and aged cheeses.
fish, especially those salted or in foil.
CANTINA MURARO Az. Vit. Muraro Severino di Muraro Via Ponte di Costozza, 117 36023 Longare (VI) Telephone +39 0444 555137 www.cantinamuraro.it murarovini@libero.it
B
reganze is an ancient viticultural center in the Vicenza province of Veneto, north-eastern Italy. The area’s Breganze DOC,
awarded in 1969, covers red (rosso) and white (bianco) wines, and the well-respected Torcolato. The Breganze growing area is located in Veneto’s viticultural no-man’s land. It is entirely distinct, stylistically and geographically, from every other Veneto DOC. Breganze town itself lies precisely 33 miles from Treviso to the east and Verona to the west, almost as if to reinforce its distinction from the Prosecco and Valpolicella/Soave zones respectively. A wide range of varietal wines are made under the Breganze DOC title, from a combination of local and international grape varieties. The reds are Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir), Marzemino, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Each of these comes in a higherquality riserva form, for which the wine must come from vineyards managed to lower yield tolerances and be aged for at least two years before commercial release. The white Breganze varietals are Vespaiolo, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and Tocai (now named Tai to avoid confusion with the famous sweet wines of Tokaj). Standard Breganze Rosso is made from a base of Merlot (at least 50%), while its bianco counterpart is based on Tai (also a required minimum of 50%). These are typically produced in light, dry styles, not so much out of choice but because the climate in this part of Italy is particularly cool and the growing season correspondingly short.
BREGANZE REGION
CALZANO
BASSANO DEL GRAPPA
CALVENE LUGO ZUGLIANO
SALCEDO
FARA BREGANZE
THIENE
MAROSTICA
SARCEDO MONTECCHIO
BRENTA RIVER SANDRIGO ASTICO RIVER
*
GRAPE VINES HAVE BEEN GROWING IN THE BREGANZE AREA SINCE PRE-HISTORY AND REFERENCES TO GROWING VINES ARE PRESENT IN TRADE CONTRACTS DATING BACK TO THE PERIOD BETWEEN 1300 AND 1600, AND EVIDENCE SUGGESTS THAT BREGANZE HAS BEEN RENOWNED FOR ITS QUALITY WINES SINCE THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. THE AREA OF PROVENANCE OBTAINED THE D.O.C. DESIGNATION IN 1969.
CANT
MACU
TINA
ULAN
C
antina Maculan was the next target in
that is near – it takes 30 minutes by train till Thiene
my explorations around Vicenza. This is
and then more 45 pleasant minutes by bike to arrive
a cool medium cantina that have been
there.
producing fine wines in Breganze, a lovely place in Veneto, neaar to Vicenza, in the
feet of the Italian Pre Alpine Mountains. My first opportunity to drink something made by
mostly corn and grape, with the Astico River to separate Thiene to Breganze and the mountains behind completing the scene. There are some
them was at the early 2014, a fine and dry Vespaiolo
gorgeous villas designed by the famous Renaissance
white wine, when I confirmed their good reputation as
architect Palladio around as Villa Godi, reforcing the
local producers of a respectful wine.
pitoresque atmosphere.
I was planning my next wine trip and considered to
96
This is a beautiful landscape, with a lot of crops,
I jumped in Thiene, another charming city around,
visit Valpollicella. But the wheather was completely
and crossed it quickly till get a road that took me
mad during that summer. We are not able to plan safely
to the Astico River, one of the many rivers formed
and all we can do is enjoy the moment. So, the day was
by the melted snow from the Alps. I had to stop the
pretty fine and I considered to make a visit to Breganze
journey to feel the temperature of the water: it was
Wineries of Veneto
*
THREE GENERATIONS HAVE HANDED DOWN THE PRECIOUS ART OF WINE-MAKING BORN FROM A LOVE FOR THEIR LAND AND THEIR ROOTS TOGETHER WITH THE KNOWLEDGE THROUGH HARD WORK AND DETERMINATION
just perfect to a dive! Unfortunatelly, I had no underwear
Today, it offers more than 15 different types of wine
to do that! Maybe next time! The day was beautiful but
as reds, whites and sweets with a very respectful
suddenly came many darks clouds promising heavy rain.
reputation.
It made me move.
The first part of the crop, the vendemmia, is nearly
About 15 minutes later, I arrived to the entrance of
over, she explained. The white grapes and the pinots
the city. There is a big cantina in the beginning of the city
have been collected these last weeks and next comes
close to the center, Beato Bartolomeo, that I couldn’t visit
the red grapes. So, there were some tractors pulled
this time, and then the charming square with some art
with their cars full of grapes – ok, that moment, all
noveau houses, some caffes and a beautiful neoclassic
grapes were already taken and processed!
church with its tall steeple. I still had time to walk around. Next, we entered the Cantina Maculan, a beautiful
Cantina Maculan nowadays produces about 200 thousand bottles, making it a medium cantina. It is
building in the corner just close to the main square,
a reflex of the new approach of the next generation
where the very kind Mrs. Luisa took us for a walk around
of the family, who passed some time in France and
the place. The winery is runned by the third generation of
US observing the modern producing methods. They
the Maculan family, who started to produce in the 30’s.
thought a new way, reducing the quantity in order to Breganze
97
*
BREGANZE DOC, THIS IS ONE OF ITALY’S UNSUNG DOC HEROES, LARGELY DUE TO THE EXCELLENCE OF MACULAN.
improve the quality of the product. The first thing they
flavours and bouquets of the product and can easily
did was to buy land to develop their own plants. Today,
been cleaned. We also visited the bootling sector,
the family owns abous 80 hectares between Thiene and
very interesting. Then, the storage and, finally, the
Bassano del Grappa. They still takes grapes from local
aging cellar, very charming and traditional. Many
producers to complement the crop. Most of the sells,
oak French barrels storage with fine wine waiting to
about 60%, is still made to the Italian market but they are
be sorved. Amazing! The cellar also keeps some old
working hard to increase the foreign sell to new clients as
producing tools and artistic decoratd barrels.
Russia, China and USA. Most of the vineyards are placed in the mountains,
tasting moment. And Luisa was very kind serving
where the terrain is compound mostly by volcanic
their best, a very fine Fratta 2009, a red velvet wine,
ground, giving the grapes a special character. It is the
intense floral and tasteful one. I choose some bottles
same kind of terrain of the mountains that comes
to take away as a 2011 Palazzotto, that we’ll talk later
from Garda Lake, passing by Bardolino, Valpolicella
and also a Rosato.
and Soave zones. The grape types most produced by
Yes, it was a special visit. We could feel one more
Cantina Maculan are Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot, Tai and
time the intense care with the wine production is
Chadornnay.
taken here in Veneto. Care, love and state of art, all
The visit took all production system, beginning with the collect of the grapes, the crushing, blending and aging. There are many big steel vats, that keeps al the
98
Before we left, there was the final prize. The
Wineries of Veneto
about wine.
THE WINES
Salgarone 2012
Bidibi 2013
Brentino 2012
Dindarello 2013
Fratta 2010
Merlot 100%
60% Tai and 40%
55% Merlot and
100% Moscato
a blend of Cabernet
Fermentation in
Sauvignon
45% Cabernet
Aging in bottle for three
sauvignon and Merlot
stainless steel tanks
Aging in stainless steel
Aging half of the wine
months. On the nose,
grown in very best, low-
Aging for three months
tanks for six months
for one year in stainless
intensely aromatic
yielding vineyards
on the yeast in stainless
Color a straw-yellow
steel tanks and half in
notes so true to the
Aging for one year
steel with malolactic
On the nose, intensely
French oak barriques,
variety: grapes, honey
in new French oak
fermentation
aromatic with
1/3 new oak. Color a
and orange blossoms
barriques. In the mouth
Color aintense ruby red
refreshing notes of ripe
deep ruby-red. On the
In the mouth, sweet on
a balanced expression
On the nose, intense,
tropical fruit, citrus and
nose, seductive aromas
the palaet, balanced and
of fine-grained tannins,
young, a light
fresh cut grass
of blackberries and
fullbodied, yet
and full-bodied,
herbaceous hint and a
In the mouth, dry and
dark cherries, along
simultaneously fresh
flavourful elegance.
nice blackberry note
well-rounded on the
with hints of cedars
and lively,
On the nose, the wine
In the mouth, rich,
palate with vibrant
and forest from the one
with a long and
carries intense aromas
meduim body, brilliant
acidity and pleasantly
year of aging in French
persistent finish.
of red berrei, bilberries
acidity, red fruits notes,
persistent finish.
barriques. In the mouth
and raspberries, along
the wine is dry and
with spicy notes of
full-bodied with its firm
cocoa and coffee.
well balanced.
tannic backbone.
Breganze
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THE PRODUCTION
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Wineries of Veneto
Instead of being made using “international” grape varieties (such as the now ubiquitous Pinot Grigio) and made with an eye to quality (rather than quantity), previous tastings of the Maculan
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family’s wines have revealed wines of character and accomplishment, rather than uniformity and dreariness! The indigenous grape variety behind this wine is Vespaiolo. Named after the wasps (“vespa”) that the grapes typically attract towards the end of the summer, Vespaiolo is probably better known as grape variety that is used in making sweet dessert wines (rather than dry whites such as this example), although if the grapes are harvested early enough to limit sugar levels, interesting dry styles of wine can be produced.
Breganze
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THE CELLAR
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Wineries of Veneto
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CANTINA MACULAN Maculan srl Via Castelletto, 3 36042 Breganze (VI) Telephone +39 0445 873733 www.maculan.net info@maculan.net
No trip to Italy would be complete without an opportunity to visit some wineries and taste their best wines. Italy produces some of the very finest wines in the world and Veneto is the place where they took their drink to a very state of art. EVIVA!