T H E M AGA Z I N E F ROM PA L A I S DE S T H É S
Issue 84
Autumn 2021
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EDITORIAL
Finding fulfilment in a cup of tea We all seek fulfilment, for our loved-ones and for ourselves. Finding happiness and feeling fulfilled, enriching our lives with joy, friendship and peace... Can a cup of tea help us achieve this? At Palais des Thés, we believe that tea can make life more rewarding. It can enhance life through the culture and traditions that surround it, the stories it tells.
Chloé Douzal Tea-lover and member of the Palais des Thés team
It can enhance life by taking us on a journey to admire a landscape and bring us closer to nature, by helping us understand the work of a producer and the time it takes to create these wonderful teas. A cup of tea fulfils us through the pleasure and wellbeing it provides. It invites us to take a break and become aware of the present as we welcome the warmth that spreads slowly through our hands as we hold it, being fully conscious of the tea as we drink it, appreciating all its flavours and the feeling of being comforted. This cup of tea enriches us through the connections we make with others, as we share a conversation or a comfortable silence. This simple cup of tea is a moment of peace and harmony, time to be kind to oneself and to others, time that offers a little happiness, time that stands still as we sip from the cup.
Cover
On the tea routes of Malawi.
Issue 84 • Autumn 2021
CONTENTS I N T E RV I E W
PLANET TE A
TE A PRODUCTION
Palais des Thés, now and in the future
By Professor Philippe Amouyel
B y L éo Per r in
Tea and health
Tea and heat
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20
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The effects of tea on the mind and body 18
A TEA SOMMELIER AND A TEA
T E A I N T H E K I TC H E N
T E L L M E A S TO RY
B y Ké vin Mouchel
Monkfish steamed over bancha
B y Bénédicte Bor toli
Tasting Gyokuro Hikari Saemidori 26
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REMARK ABLE TE A
NEWS
B y Manuel a L er iche
All the Palais news
Jukro, a remarkable Korean tea
The job of the tea sommelier
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CONTRIBUTORS
Manuela Leriche
Léo Perrin
Kévin Mouchel
Manuela is an expert tea sommelier who loves to teach people about tea in an engaging and accessible way.
Léo visits plantations around the world to source the finest teas. He is passionate about sharing the fruits of his travels and encounters.
Kévin is a tea sommelier who helps customers choose premium teas at our Rue Vieille-duTemple store in Paris.
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INTERVIEW
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Palais des Thés, now and in the future Established in 1986, Palais des Thés has become a truly international company. Its founder François-Xavier Delmas outlines the increasingly sustainable and educational plans being put in place for the company, based around its mission to be fair, In conversation with Bénédicte Bortoli professional, welcoming and sustainable.
When you created the first Palais des Thés store 35 years ago, did you already have a vision? A dream? François-Xavier Delmas: We brought together 45 tea-lovers to kickstart the Palais des Thés venture. We were driven only by our enthusiasm and a desire that our small business would still be going after three years, and that with our precarious two-year lease, it would become somewhat established. I had no specific vision, let alone a “concept” or business plan. I didn’t know what these words meant, but I’d noticed that there was nowhere dedicated entirely to tea. Tea was still associated with something else. Tea was British, colonial or herbal, there was tea and coffee… But there was nowhere you could sell tea where you could talk about tea for its own merits without being burdened by a particular outlook or cliché. To me, tea deserved a place in its own right, free from other elements that always got in the way.
How did the desire and the need to go direct to the source of tea come about?
François-Xavier Delmas, founder of Palais des Thés.
FXD: The idea of buying tea direct from the planters without middlemen came fairly quickly, at least as soon as we were able to sell a certain volume. At first I simply searched the yellow pages for “tea importers”. It was easy, there were eight in total! We went to see them and soon realised that they weren’t proper importers. Then, in the early 1990s, I went to Japan and was shocked to discover that the Japanese teas sold in France were nothing like what I was drinking over there. From then on, we started buying directly in Japan, Taiwan and China, not to get a lower price but to have a connection with the planters. I started going to tea-producing countries more often. I made contacts, gained a little credibility and built trust. Contrary to the middlemen who didn’t like being asked too many questions, the people who actually made the tea were very happy to talk about what they do. I immediately saw the value of having fresh tea and of knowing more about how it is made. Having received no education about tea myself, and having no culture of tea – I was told you couldn’t just start up a tea company without coming from a tea family! – I had to get the information from the source, in other words, from the farmers.
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Why do you want to spread knowledge about tasting tea and how it’s made in addition to selling it? FXD: We didn’t intend to keep this knowledge to ourselves, the knowledge we had such difficulty obtaining, and only did so by travelling and researching. The tea world maintained a sort of cult of secrecy, of knowledge reserved for experts. But sharing knowledge with as many people as possible is an immense asset. We wanted our company to be open to everyone interested in tea, near or far. It was a bit of a wake-up call. It was up to us to become more knowledgeable so that we could educate others. So the idea of a shop, a place people could come to, was obvious. Of course, it was a real struggle to acquire a customer base, but what we were building was strong and positive and even at that stage there was a real sense of education. Palais des Thés has always fundamentally been about educating people. Our customers have grown with us in their knowledge of tea. In our own small way, we have helped make the French more knowledgeable. Our role is similar to that of a wine merchant, with the idea of guiding and sharing a passion. These days, our customers are very knowledgeable. It’s a challenge for us to live up to their expectations. In the early years, we didn’t have many customers which meant we could dedicate time to sharing our knowledge. Things changed with the opening and success of the third shop in Rue Vieille-duTemple, in the Marais district of Paris. It was no longer possible to give them so much time. That’s why we set up the Tea School, to continue our original mission, to continue the conversation. Training tea sommeliers, the Tea
Tireless tea sourcer François-Xavier Delmas travels the world in search of the finest teas.
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School, the blog, our magazine Bruits de Palais and the books we’ve written are our way of continuing to build our dream. This is a direct legacy of our first shop and a loyalty to our roots: we must never forget to help people discover, to spread knowledge, and to take others on a journey.
Is there a Palais des Thés style? FXD: Palais des Thés has a close relationship with the written word. The brand writes a lot. I love writing! We are committed to leaving a legacy and are proud to have turned our passion into a profession, that of the tea sourcer, and to have contributed to the recognition of the job of the tea sommelier. In France, tea is traditionally a drink of educated people, not necessarily intellectuals, but of the literate. In the same spirit of sharing, we quickly introduced distance sales so that customers who don’t live near one of our shops aren’t penalised. Quite simply, it was up to us to come to them, at the lowest cost. This relationship with the customer is paramount. We are of course a brand with its obligations, but we also like to cultivate close relations. We want to be a place where people feel good. If there is a Palais des Thés style, it is based on simplicity, hospitality and conviviality.
The word “loyalty” crops up often within the company. How is this central to Palais des Thés’ values?
This small batch of leaves will produce just a few kilos of an exceptional Nepalese tea.
FXD: With producers, our relationship is becoming easier and closer. Now some producers contact us directly. Today, most of them supply us on a permanent basis. Twenty years ago we couldn’t have bought Jukro, for example, and we wouldn’t have sold it. Loyalty is at the heart of our relationships. We don’t ask someone who produces 150 kg to suddenly supply 300 kg because we could sell it. But we can guarantee them that we’ll buy several batches. We don’t influence production or volumes. In fact, the selection of rare teas we offer differs from one store to another depending on the volume. I find it exciting that store managers can choose which teas they’re going to sell and can then give you advice on them. They say, “I’d like this one myself”, and then they’re really engaged when they suggest it to customers. Like our tea sommeliers, I take them on trips as often as possible. We also try to accompany each customer as best we can in their “life of tea”, helping them to discover new things and maintaining their curiosity with new products while rewarding them for their loyalty through the Theophile programme, which they can join when they make their first purchase. Some customers now ask for very rare teas. They’ll say, “If you ever get an Oriental Beauty, here’s my number, please put some aside for me.” There are fine teas just like there are fine wines!
10 Palais des Thés employees are working on 12 major projects. One of these supports an education and health charity that operates in remote tea-producing areas.
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INTERVIEW
What does “being committed” mean for Palais des Thés?
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Palais des Thés has always fundamentally been about educating people.
FXD: It means we’re responsible for everything we do, in terms of buying tea, hiring employees and human relations at Palais des Thés, in terms of what we do with the company’s profits within the context of sustainable growth that benefits everyone. Tea, and its birthplace in Asia, teaches us the value of time throughout a relationship. In Asia, time isn’t the same as in the West. To create sustainable relations in Asia we need to embrace this approach to time. This didn’t necessarily come naturally to me, but over the years it has become clear that time in Asia is time for business and for tea. Tea is consumed sitting down, it takes time to prepare, and therefore requires a specific relationship with time. We wouldn’t change producers because their neighbour sells cheaper tea. Longstanding producers make up the bulk of our suppliers. It really takes a serious incident for us to end a relationship with a planter. We adopted the Asian way because we’ve travelled, we’ve met people and enjoyed our time there. The key is to go and visit the plantation and ask how it’s organised, how the planter lives, what makes them happy. You need to take an interest in them, listen to them, understand how they work, because there are many different business models in the world of tea (editor: see Bruits de Palais 83, pp.2025). We engage in relations that are akin to friendship, we pay attention to others, we try not to constrain them by imposing too low a purchase price, we sleep as a guest in their home, we take an interest in the lives of the people who work in the tea fields, in whether or not there’s a school, in whether the plantation is likely to be handed down to the next generation, in the benefit or not of moving towards greater mechanisation, in the possibility of providing care if someone has an accident at work, and so on. Our commitment to the planters is first and foremost to pay a fair price, to ensure they’re in a comfortable position, and to promote the quality of their work by all means available to us. By telling our customers about a Nepalese garden, we showcase it and give it real support. And we ask ourselves: if I pay the producer twice the price for his tea, will it have a knock-on effect on the
A tasting session at the Tea School.
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quality of life in the village? We can only find out by going there regularly. It’s common sense, nothing more than that. We want to benefit the producer and not profit at the expense of others or the planet.
What direction is Palais des Thés taking now? FXD: We are now entering a new phase, looking ahead, by becoming more involved with producing countries. One way we are doing this is through a partnership with an agricultural engineering college. Every year, we will send a recently graduated engineer to a plantation. Together, we will define the needs of the plantation based on the real-life situation, for example conversion to organic, problems linked to the soil or to the tea plants, research into a particular cultivar and so on. This is a collaborative project that involves Palais des Thés employees, the engineer and of course the planters, and is something that can only be carried out over the long term. Sustainability and loyalty are at the heart of all our projects. Our commitment to become 100% organic within five years is part of this same approach of support, area by area, case by case. We also partner with associations such as Karuna-Schechen, established by Matthieu Ricard, which work on the ground to set up projects focusing mainly on education. It’s important for us to be able to rely on a local player and to remain small-scale so that we are actually useful rather than just make ourselves feel better. This approach is also applied in-house through a skills sponsorship programme, which enables our employees to commit one day a year to a charity chosen by Palais des Thés, on a voluntary basis. We are taking action to build a virtuous model that benefits all those involved in the world of tea. To achieve this, we make sure that we don’t harm the planet and have a target of zero plastic and carbon neutrality. Through a series of choices, always focused on the long term, we are constantly trying to benefit everyone who has contributed to the Palais des Thés project and to believe in them, whether they are employees, producers or customers. We are working to have a positive impact by following a growth path we can all be proud of. Our greatest reward is to spread the love of tea a little further every day and to value the people who gave it to us.
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PALAIS DES THES KEY FIGURES
1986 Palais des Thés established 280 employees 30 tea sommeliers since the diploma
was launched At Palais des Thés, the tea sommelier diploma recognises a high level of expertise. See also p.30.
78 stores (61 in France and 17 abroad) 550 tonnes sold per year across all distribution channels
17 producing countries represented 53 terroirs 198 tea gardens
PL ANET TE A
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TEA AND HEALTH Appreciated for its subtle aromas and its thirst-quenching and invigorating properties, tea has come to symbolise a healthy and balanced lifestyle. So how does it influence our wellbeing? We bring you an overview of the latest scientific data. By Professor Philippe Amouyel
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eyond its taste qualities, tea owes its popularity, in all cultures, to its recognised health benefits. Since 1810, more than 36,000 scientific and medical studies have been published in journals describing the impact of tea’s properties on our bodies.
A unique source of molecules that benefit our health Teas of all colours derive their benefits from the wealth of natural substances they contain. These vary according to the geographical origins of the leaves, their age, the growing and drying methods used, and the way the tea is prepared**. Before infusion, dried leaves contain 15% to 20% protein including enzymes, amino acids such as theanine, tryptophan, tyrosine, vitamins C, E and B, zinc, magnesium, calcium, phenolic compounds such as catechins, and xanthine derivatives such as caffeine, theobromine and theophylline. The three main compounds present in Camellia sinensis leaves are catechins, caffeine and amino acids, which all have powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Catechins are the most active antioxidant molecules in tea; they belong to the flavonoid family. Caffeine, another major antioxidant with well-known medicinal properties, is present in significant quantities in green teas, particularly in matcha (which differs from other teas in that it is ingested), which contains two to four times more than coffee beans by weight. Lastly, among the amino acids, the most specific is theanine, which helps to give the tea its umami taste (roughly meaning “deliciousness” in Japanese). Green and white teas, which are less oxidised, preserve them best. In general, to reap these benefits, it is recommended to drink three to five cups of tea (25 cl) a day.
A way to fight the effects of time All our life, our body is subjected to the wear and tear of time and in particular oxidation, which “rusts” it like a piece of metal. Every day, our body accumulates oxidising substances from the environment and from food, accelerating the ageing process. Tea helps us to protect ourselves better thanks to its powerful antioxidant properties. An extended life expectancy is one of the benefits repeatedly demonstrated by many clinical and epidemiological studies.
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cups of tea per day reduce the risk of death from all causes by *.
24 %
Philippe Amouyel is a world-renowned physician and Professor of Epidemiology and Public Health at the Centre Hospitalier et Universitaire in Lille. He heads an Inserm research unit dedicated to the epidemiology of age-related diseases and the Fondation Alzheimer. He is the author of more than 800 scientific articles published in international journals. * Source: Zhang et al, 2015 (analysis of 22 studies involving 856,206 participants). ** Source: Hinojosa-Nogueira et al, 2021
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PL ANET TE A
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“Tea relieves fatigue, strengthens the will, delights the soul and revives sight.” Classic of Herbal Medicine, c. 2800 BC, attributed to Shennong, the mythical “Divine Farmer”
Potential effects on all our organs When we drink a cup of tea, the active substances it contains spread throughout the body. Researchers have shown in the laboratory that their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties improve many of our metabolic pathways*. They reduce inflammation and, indirectly, our susceptibility to chronic diseases. They improve our glycaemic (sugar) and lipid (fat) balance and combat obesity and cardiovascular disease. They help the body secrete molecules that allow us to better fight cancer. They act on our calcium metabolism, strengthening bones and reducing the risk of kidney stones. In the laboratory, they have been found to reduce the accumulation of certain proteins present in Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s diseases. They also help maintain some of our intellectual abilities such as our cognitive functions, thanks to caffeine in particular, and reduce stress through their antioxidant effects. A lesser-known benefit is their powerful antiseptic properties. Locally, they improve oral health by protecting against bacteria that cause cavities and gum disease. Tea also benefits the intestinal microbiota by selecting the microorganisms that are most useful for our health. However, much of this research has been carried out on cultured cells and in animals and remains to be demonstrated in humans in order to establish a link between tea consumption and the prevention of certain cancers, diabetes, and cardiovascular or neurodegenerative diseases. It should also be taken into account that regular tea drinkers often have a more balanced and healthy lifestyle that boosts the health benefits of tea and life expectancy. So, to live better, science wholeheartedly encourages daily tea consumption!
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PROMISING RESEARCH ON THE EFFECTS OF TEA AGAINST THE SARS-COV-2 VIRUS Around the world, tea is associated with wellbeing. Pictured here: Myanmar.
A study** has found that three green tea catechins could serve as potential inhibitors of a virus protein that is key to the viral replication and transcription of SARS-CoV-2. Might it hold hope of long-term treatment for Covid-19? * Source: Yi et al, 2019 ** Source: Ghosh et al, 2020
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The effects of tea on the mind and body
Xanthines Caffeine is a powerful brain stimulant that helps keep the mind alert and focused.
The benefits of tea have been relayed for three millennia through oral and written legends and traditions, and are now being confirmed by an evergrowing body of scientific research. Tea stimulates and protects the mind as well as the body.
It also has diuretic properties due to theobromine. Both activate renal circulation and limit the accumulation of kidney stones in the urinary tract. Theophylline, present in much smaller quantities than caffeine, has an essentially vasodilatory action: it dilates the veins and improves blood flow. Vasodilation contributes to the regulation of body temperature. This is one of the reasons why tea is so refreshing, whether it is drunk piping hot or iced. It also dilates the bronchial tubes and is used as a treatment for asthma.
Combats obesity (zero calories, satisfies hunger, contributes to a balanced diet and more)
Maintains the balance of the intestinal microbiota
Reduces inflammation, has an antioxidant effect
Anti-ageing effect
Hydrates, has antiseptic properties
Protects bones and reduces kidney stones
Prevents diabetes Stimulates the brain, maintains cognitive capacities and reduces stress
Matcha is the focus of scientific research Matcha tea contains high proportions of antioxidant and antiinflammatory molecules that are the subject of extensive research. Its high protein, catechin and caffeine content has benefits for our health, strengthening the immune system and stimulating the brain.
Source: Kochman et al, 2021
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Minerals Tea contains 0.3 mg of fluoride per cup. To preserve tooth enamel, we need to absorb 1 mg of fluoride every day. Consumed regularly, tea therefore contributes effectively to this intake. Combined with the polyphenols in tea, fluoride could help combat plaque formation. The antiseptic properties of tea also contribute to good oral hygiene and reduce bad breath.
Polyphenols The main polyphenols (tannins) in tea are catechins, which belong to the flavonoids family. These act to reduce cholesterol, insulin and sugar levels and could have a preventive effect on cardiovascular diseases through their action on vascular walls.
Vitamins The tea plant is naturally rich in vitamin C, although this is completely destroyed when infused in water above 30°C. This means that drinking tea does not supply vitamin C. However, the beverage is rich in B vitamins. They contribute to our overall health by supporting the functioning of the nervous system and liver.
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Tea and heat We owe the diversity of teas that we enjoy to a single plant variety, Camellia sinensis. Once plucked and long before it comes into contact with water, the leaf undergoes many transformations. During the processing of tea, it is the control of heat that allows the different aromatic compounds released in our cup to form.
Smoked tea or lapsang souchong is a speciality of Fujian. It absorbs the flavour and aroma of smoke as it dries over a spruce fire.
By Léo Perrin
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TE A PRODUCTION
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n the various stages of processing tea, the use of heat and the way it is controlled is essential in defining the style and aromatic profile of the beverage. This know-how is a true art. Roasting tea is a discipline in its own right, and skill comes with experience and the use of all the senses. The sight of excess water vapour and leaves sticking to the hands and a smell of burning are sensory clues that guide the tea roaster, who also takes into account weather conditions that can vary so widely from one plantation to another. Like a cellar master, the roaster’s choices give the tea its style. Here is a brief look at the different stages in tea processing when heat is or can be used.
“Kill-green” (sha qing) Tea is above all a process of oxidation, the natural phenomenon whereby a plant, as soon as it is picked, begins to fade and turn brown. By triggering, limiting or stopping this oxidation of the pigments and tannins in the leaf, the planter gives the tea the chosen colour and helps shape its aromatic properties. If the planter prevents oxidation from the start, they will obtain green tea. If oxidation is stopped part-way through it produces a semi-oxidised tea, oolong. And if the leaves are allowed to fully oxidise, the planter ends up with a black tea. In order to kill the enzymes responsible for oxidation (polyphenols oxidases) the leaves are often heated in woks placed on bamboo-burning stoves (Chinese method) or over steam (Japanese method), to stop the enzyme reaction. This step is also used to fix the flavours of the tea. If the sha qing step is not properly controlled, the tea’s flaws cannot be reversed. It is important to remember that processing is fundamental to the character and quality of the final tea – much more than the cultivar, which contributes only a small portion of the aromas and flavours in the cup.
Bringing out the flavours and aromas Drying is the second stage in which heat is used during the processing of tea leaves. The leaves are dried in a hot-air dryer, on racks, in baskets or, more rarely, directly in the sun. This removes virtually all of the remaining water in the leaves (only about 5% of the water is left at the end) to ensure that the tea keeps well. This step is specific to most Japanese teas
SMOKED TEAS
The creation of these teas is attributed to an accident: around 1820, in Fujian, a planter whose farm was requisitioned to serve as a garrison was forced to vacate the place where the wet tea leaves were drying. To speed up the process and avoid losing his tea, he placed the leaves over some burning spruce roots. As they dried, the leaves acquired a unique smoky aroma that displeased the locals but which was appreciated by a foreign merchant who took it back to Europe. This “smoked” tea was a great success. These teas are processed in the same way as traditional black teas except that after rolling, the leaves are lightly toasted on a hot iron plate and then spread on bamboo racks over a fire of pine, spruce or other roots. The duration of this stage depends on the degree of smokiness required.
Here, near Hangzhou, China, the sha qing stage is carried out in a very hot wok.
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Tea is above all a process of oxidation.
as well as to Jukro, a unique Korean tea (see also p.32). This is a roasting phase. In Japan, many planters first produce an unrefined or “raw” tea (aracha) which is then processed. In the refinery, the tea is sorted before undergoing the final drying stage (hiire), which reduces the residual moisture. This is a critical stage, requiring careful attention and great expertise, as it not only improves the tea’s keeping qualities but also, and above all, brings out its aromatic notes. The same aracha can produce very different teas. Different tools and machines are used to diffuse the heat depending on the quantity of tea to be refined and the flavours desired. During roasting, prolonged contact of the tea leaves with a hot metal plate transforms the proteins and sugars in the leaves, which develop toasted, caramelised or nutty (chestnut, hazelnut) notes. This is known as the Maillard reaction: exposing the leaves to a high temperature intensifies interaction between the sugars and the amino acids in the leaf, favouring the formation of aromatic compounds and reducing the astringency of the liquor by combining the polyphenols with the proteins.
Creating the “taste of fire” To achieve this “taste of fire”, which is especially sought-after for some Chinese teas, it is necessary to carry out extensive oxidation and a fairly long final roast. It is in the stifling heat of the roasting room, which has floor cavities about a metre deep, that the tea is put through its trial by fire. Each cavity is insulated with clay, on which charcoal is placed. This is made from a variety of non-smoking wood (usually lychee, bamboo, coconut and Acacia confusa), which is then covered with a heap of filtered, pure white ashes. A bamboo basket is heated by this diffuse source. That basket is topped by another one in which the leaves are placed. The leaves are stirred gently and regularly before being left to rest to fix the aromas. This process is repeated for an average of three times, during which the expert roasters adjust the heat and resting times. This lengthy procedure, which originated in Fujian, produces several categories of legendary oolongs such as yan cha and dan cong.
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TE A PRODUCTION
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ROASTING TEA AT HOME IN FOUR STEPS You can experiment at home with the effects of a light roast on your tea to “wake it up”, bring out new aromatic notes, or give it that special “taste of fire”. All you need is a heat source, a small wok and some tea.
1. Turn on your heat source and place the wok over it to heat up. Once these four steps have been completed, you can prepare your “new” tea. It is interesting to smell the leaves and taste the tea before and after roasting to compare the aromatic differences. A roasted tea should be brewed for longer because the leaves have lost their water content. Due to the Maillard reaction, this creates a thin film around the leaf that the water has to penetrate.
Reviving an old tea This method can be used to give tea a second life if it has lost its aromas and
2. Put the required amount of tea in the wok.
flavours, but also to correct defects in an old tea. Consider a green tea that has been languishing at the back of a cupboard. You won’t ever get back its original freshness or wonderful spring quality, but you can turn it into a lovely tea that would pair well with a selection of raw fish, for example. Start by heating the leaves to remove the moisture that they have acquired over time (tea reabsorbs moisture as it ages). When the leaves start to dance around the pan, it means the moisture levels have been brought back down. Ideally, you should let your roasted tea rest for a week before drinking it.
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3. Stir the wok to ensure the leaves are heated evenly and don’t burn. Watch the wok closely and see the colour of the leaves change, smell the emerging fragrances and listen out for the first crackles.
4. Once the desired degree of roasting is reached, transfer the tea leaves to a bowl.
Changing the aromatic profile With a light roast, you can change the aromas of your tea to suit your taste. For example, you have an excellent Vietnamese black tea with pronounced notes of fruit and honey, but you’d love to start the day with cocoa f lavours. Simply follow the above steps and toast the leaves for a few seconds longer at the end for a more intense roast. Roasted tea is often sweeter and less astringent. If you do this with a red oolong, the original red fruit notes will turn into black fruit notes. You can take it from cherry to blackberry,
a nd you w ill t hen have t wo good teas with very different organoleptic characteristics.
Creating the taste of fire You can reproduce something that is often seen in streets and houses, especially in Japan. Tea leaves and barley, buckwheat or sesame seeds, sometimes a mixture, are roasted together, releasing smoky, heady fruity and toasted notes. For example, you can use a bancha to create a home-made bancha hojicha. Your standard bancha will be enhanced by the delicious roasted notes.
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A TE A SOMMELIER AND A TE A
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Tasting Gyokuro Hikari Saemidori Let’s travel together for a Japanese spring tasting of a highly sought-after Japanese tea: Gyokuro or “Jade Dew”. This prestigious shade-grown tea, from the Saemidori cultivar, By Kévin Mouchel comes from the Kirishima region in the south-east of the country.
1. Place the tea leaves in the shiboridashi
2. Pour the first infusion into the cup
Kévin Mouchel joined Palais des Thés in 2019. Kévin gained his tea sommelier diploma the following year, and enjoys helping customers choose premium teas at our Rue Vieille-duTemple store in Paris.
It’s a real pleasure to discover the spring harvests every year, at a time when the tea fields are bright green. The planter knows when it’s time to pick the leaves due to their colour and the appearance of the first buds. In Japan, the first harvest of the year, which is highly prized, is known as ichibancha (literally “first tea” or “new-season tea”). This period also symbolises renewal throughout the archipelago: a change of season, a new school year, cherry trees in bloom. An exceptional shadegrown tea This Gyokuro Hikari Saemidori is a shade-grown tea, which means that the tea bushes are covered and deprived of sunlight for at least 20 days before the leaves are plucked, whereas a traditional tea is left in the sun. This process gives it a powerful aroma, called oika. There are several varieties of tea plants used to make Gyokuro. For its fruity notes, I like the Goko cultivar, and I like Yamakai for its sweetness. Most of all, I like Saemidori for its roundness and umami (or “tasty”) quality and the intense sensation that coats the entire
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A TE A SOMMELIER AND A TE A
tongue. Its beautifully rolled needle-shaped leaves are deep green, signalling a rare complexity in the mouth. The best way to infuse this Gyokuro is to use one of the many accessories made by Japanese artisans. I take my inspiration from the Senchado ceremony and choose a shiboridashi (a cup with a lid and filter spout). I accompany it with delicate Japanese porcelain cups that reveal the colour of the infusion [1].
Iodine in springtime I prepare a concentrated first infusion [2]. The colour of the liquor reminds me of the tea fields in Japan, which extend as far as the eye can see. It is bright green, typical of the Saemidori variety [3]. As I bring the cup to my mouth, the smell of the infusion wafts into my nostrils. Aromas of fresh shellfish and freshly cut
3. Look at the concentrated liquor of the first infusion
4. Eat the infused leaves with bonito flakes and ponzu sauce
grass mingle with marine notes that take me to the seaside. The first sip has an intensely umami flavour. The liquor is a flavoursome blend of iodine, vegetal and fresh herb notes. It’s a unique and powerful taste, like waves in a stormy sea; a swirl of refreshing notes that explode in the mouth. The second infusion is still umami and gradually makes way for the spring freshness of the leaves. Floral and shellfish notes intermingle. The wind drops, the sea calms down and a gentle breeze caresses my cheeks and palate. The journey concludes with a third infusion that is lighter and more subtle. Spring is coming to an end and we will have to wait for the next one. But before leaving, I take my leaves and add katsuobushi (bonito flakes) and ponzu sauce [4]. I savour every last bud. Nothing remains.
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Gyokuro Hikari Saemidori CULTIVAR Saemidori ORIGIN Kirishima
(Japan, Kagoshima)
HARVEST Spring 2021
(March)
PREPARATION GUIDANCE → 30 cl teapot
50°C/120°F 2 minutes 30 seconds → Shiboridashi 12-15g: 50°C/120°F First infusion: 2 minutes; 2nd infusion: instant; 3rd infusion: 1 minute FOOD PAIRING
sea bream sashimi
→ Ref. 3073A21 – €46 for 100g
TE A IN THE KITCHEN
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Monkfish steamed over bancha Steaming the fish on a bed of tea leaves adds iodine notes and fresh vegetal hints.
Serves 4
1.
Preheat the oven to 210°C (gas mark 7).
4 tbsp bancha (green tea)
2.
Place a sheet of baking parchment on a baking tray. Drizzle some olive oil in the middle, then sprinkle this with tea leaves and place a portion of fish on top. Repeat for the remaining three portions.
3.
Prepare the topping: peel the onion. Slice the courgettes and cucumber. Cut the onion into quarters.
4.
Blanch the vegetables in a pan of boiling salted water, then drain.
5.
Spread them around the monkfish. Season with salt and pepper. Before closing each parchment packet, pour a little white wine over the fish. Bring the sides of the sheet together and fold to seal. Bake for 12 minutes.
4 monkfish tails Olive oil Topping 2 courgettes 1 large white onion 1 cucumber 16 cherry tomatoes White wine, not too dry Salt, freshly ground pepper
Serving suggestion Add a few thin slices of preserved lemon before sealing the parchment, and serve the monkfish with fragrant rice. When choosing your monkfish tails at the fishmonger’s, the flesh should be firm and pearly in colour. Ideally, use organic vegetables.
ORGANIC BANCHA → Ref. 3070 − €8.50 per 100g
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TELL ME A STORY
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The job of the tea sommelier A tea sommelier is an expert who helps you choose your tea in a shop, but they also specialise in advising restaurants and large hotels. They are dedicated to helping people try new teas and play a variety of roles, from selecting teas to preparing and serving By Bénédicte Bortoli them to customers.
While the tea sommelier is a profession in its own right in some Asian countries such as China, Korea and Japan, as well as Russia, it is rare in France to find a professional who is entirely dedicated to this beverage, apart from a few specialist establishments. Since 2015, Palais des Thés has enabled its employees to take a tea sommelier diploma to confirm their level of expertise.
Passion, learning and transmission Curiosity is undoubtedly the most common quality among tea sommeliers. They are passionate about their work and are pioneers in a world that is constantly changing, with
hundreds of different teas. Faced with this diversity, tea sommeliers must have a good memory and regularly stimulate their senses of taste and smell during tasting sessions. Far from being a solitary occupation, t he tea sommelier is generally concerned with sharing and passing on their knowledge. This requires good listening skills, a combination of teaching and psychology, and the ability to make their knowledge accessible.
A variety of fields Our love of wine sometimes leads us to forget that the sommelier has always been responsible for all types of beverages (spirits, water, soft drinks, teas, coffees,
etc.). In fine-dining restaurants and hotels, in addition to advising diners and preparing and serving tea, they are often responsible for choosing and buying tea and ensuring it is correctly stored. When tea features on the menu, they work with the head chef. In stores dedicated exclusively to tea, the tea sommelier chooses a bespoke range of teas and infusions, and must be thoroughly familiar with the house teas in order to advise a clientele of increasingly well-informed tea lovers in search of new products as well as background information on their favourite beverage. At Palais des Thés, the tea sommelier might also host in-store tasting workshops, provide training at the Tea School and take part in events.
Serving tea In fine-dining establishments and tea rooms in large hotels, the tea sommelier has resources to help customers choose their beverage. There might be a dedicated tea menu but perhaps also a selection of leaves to smell, presented on a trolley or tray. This is the first invitation to travel. Once the guests have chosen their tea, it is time to prepare it. While the sommelier cannot change the nature or style of a wine, the tea sommelier
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R ACONTE Z-MOI
Today, almost 30 tea sommeliers in France and around the world support our customers in their “life of tea” at the 78 Palais des Thés stores.
can influence the character of a tea, in particular through the choice of water, infusion time and serving temperature. The tea sommelier works in their own small kitchen area to prepare the tea. They play an active role in turning dry leaves into a delicious drink. If they use a gong fu cha or the kyusu method, for example, they usually set everything up in the kitchen, from measuring out the tea, heating the water and starting off the infusion process to choosing suitable serving vessels and accessories. The process continues in front of the diners once the tea is partially or completely brewed. The tea sommelier then ensures that the tasting goes well by assisting the diners as necessary and ensuring their needs are met.
•
Being a tea sommelier at Palais des Thés In your local Palais des Thés store, the tea sommelier is responsible for the vibrant, unique and personalised selection of flavoured, single-origin and premium teas. Depending on their clientele, they might place greater emphasis on certain flavour types, provenances and categories. They will be able to explain why a rare limited-edition tea can disappear just as quickly as it arrived in the shop! Like a wine merchant, they can reserve a particular rare tea you’re after, or let you know when your favourite tea arrives. They help every tea lover by understanding their tastes and the way they drink tea at different times of day. They can tell the story of a tea and its producer, of how it was processed and the best way to prepare it. They can explain how to choose the right accessories, pair it with food, and even cook with it. When customers have such confidence in their tea sommelier, they can be inspired to try a tea for the first time as they listen to the sommelier talk about it – unless they already have the cup to their mouth.
REMARK ABLE TE A
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Jukro, a remarkable Korean tea Despite its long tea history and unique know-how, South Korea remains little known as a producer. Most of the country’s teas are green teas, as well as some oolongs and black teas including the rare and remarkable Jukro. By Manuela Leriche
Jukro black tea comes from a high-quality terroir in the Hadong region in the south of the country. This premium tea is produced from tea plants that grow at an altitude of more than 800 metres on the slopes of Jirisan mountain in a region of rich biodiversity and lush nature. The Camellia si nensis bushes receive pure water from Sumjin River and are surrounded by a bamboo forest, which helps maintain optimal light and humidity. All the right climate conditions come together here to produce an exceptional tea.
A talented and passionate producer But in addition to the ideal terroir, the creation of Jukro required talent and the right person, in the form of Mr Cho Yun Seok. The latter owns a small, six-hectare plantation that he tends to with great care and attention to detail. He doesn’t just make black tea. Every year, he works hard to get
the best from his leaves. This constant search for perfection is reflected in the special way in which the leaves are processed. For the past five decades, Cho Yun Seok has been keeping up a highly specialised tradition based on secret skills passed dow n t hroug h his fa mily. Nothing is left to chance with Jukro. The tea bushes are left alone through the winter to give them time to regain minerals, trace elements and amino acids, then they are harvested at the beginning of the spring, when there are the most young shoots. Only the most tender buds and leaves are picked, entirely by hand. For Cho Yun Seok, quality comes before yield. Jukro is a rare tea! The harvested leaves then undergo gradual processing, which is also done entirely by hand. The leaves are left to wither slowly in the sun and are then rolled for the first time. Then they are left to rest, which is essential for making a fine tea, before the leaves are rolled a second time. Next, they are spread out indoors to trigger
oxidation, which lasts nearly four hours, during which time the flavours of the tea begin to develop. Jukro’s aromatic character is only established after the leaves have completed a long drying stage followed by a more intense roasting at nearly 120°C. The flavour of this tea, which is one of the best in the world, is the result of one man’s skill – a veritable art.
A gastronomic experience Jukro’s characteristic chocolate aroma and powerful, precise
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cocoa note are irresistible to tea lovers. It is an extraordinary tea with an incomparable richness: it is as complex as it is accessible. It delivers a succession of astonishing and varied aromatic notes: cocoa, vanilla, pâte de fruits, spices, exotic fruits, etc., sustained by a very smooth texture. The tea’s olfactory richness, complexity and lingering finish deserve to be tasted at least once in a lifetime.
•
Korean woman in traditional costume hosting the Dado (literally, “way of tea”) ceremony.
JUKRO → Ref. 2883 − €34.50 per 50g
JUKRO, KOREAN BLACK TEA
NEWS
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In Nepal, multicoloured prayer flags flutter in the wind. They are made from pieces of cloth on which the Himalayan people print wishes or mantras.
“Tea and travels”: new destinations in season two! “Tea and travels”, the podcast in which Sidonie Bonnec and François-Xavier Delmas travel the world in tea tastings.
Teas of Sri Lanka
Rooibos
Teas of Nepal
Episode 1 19 April 2021
Episode 2 3 May 2021
Episode 3 17 May 2021
It is difficult to find quality teas in Sri Lanka. Yet the country has everything that’s necessary to produce exceptional teas. François-Xavier takes Sidonie on a journey into the mountains and then through the jungle in the south of the country to explain why the best Ceylon teas are not where you might expect them!
Destination South Africa. Discover rooibos, a shrub from the legume family that grows in the desert. Under a blazing sun, François-Xavier takes Sidonie in search of redbush, the increasingly popular drink that is a tea in name only!
In the mists of Nepal where the Yeti hides, François-Xavier talks to Sidonie about his love for this country and its teas, which remain little-known. He tells her about the people he meets along the way, the changing seasons and the teas he tastes, with their diverse flavours.
Duration ► 31 minutes
Duration ► 19 minutes
Duration ► 30 minutes
NEWS
35
White teas Episode 4 31 May 2021 François-Xavier invites Sidonie to discover precious white teas. They journey through Indonesia and Vietnam then on to China, tasting different teas and enjoying their subtle flavours.
Palais news THE TEA SCHOOL
Classes start up again at the Tea School
Duration ► 22 minutes
Spring teas Episode 5 14 June 2021 François-Xavier invites Sidonie to “taste the spring” and celebrate nature. They head to China, where tea leaves are shaped like sparrows’ tongues and watermelon seeds. In Japan they discover teas grown in the shade and the sun, and, in the Himalayan foothills, teas that develop remarkably rich aromas due to the harsh winters. Duration ►28 minutes
The Tea School offers outstanding courses that reveal the secrets of this age-old beverage and the art of tea tasting. Whether you are new to the world of tea, are interested in the art of tea tasting, want to learn about pairing tea with food, or would love to experience the Cha No Yu ceremony, explore the new programme on the website, ecoleduthe.com.
STORES
A new store where we can share our passion for tea with you
Other episodes are available at www. palaisdesthes.com/fr/ podcast (in French) or from your usual platforms. A Univers K production.
We are delighted to announce the opening of a new Palais des Thés store. All our staff are looking forward to welcoming you and helping you choose from our selection of more than 250 teas. Avignon-Le Pontet 533, avenue Louis-Braille 84130 Le Pontet
NEW
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An autumn of tea TEA SACHET SELECTION BOXES Green teas → Ref. DCC08 – €29
JAPANESE CUPS Brush porcelain cup by Mr Anki → Ref. N091 – €16
My Tea for the Office
Iwami porcelain cup by Mr Yoichi
→ Ref. DCC09 – €29
→ Ref. N090 – €12
Greige porcelain cup from Mizunami → Ref. N092 – €12
Emerald porcelain cup from Toki → Ref. N093 – €14
My Tea for the Morning → Ref. DCC10 – €29
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Shincha from Makinohara
Meiryoku from Kagoshima
→ Ref. 3078A21 – €28 for 100g
→ Ref. 3075A21 – €32 for 100g
GRANDS CRUS
Green tea from Fu Liang → Ref. 209A21 – €22 for 100g
LE NOMADE GREEN Le Nomade → Ref. Q13G – 350 ml – €29
Flavoured teas → Ref. DCC12 – €36.90
Le Nomade XL → Ref. Q130H – 450 ml – €36
Find us at
READ ABOUT TEA
Learn more about tea
palaisdesthes
Our books invite you to discover tea or to deepen your knowledge. Share the passion!
Bruits de Palais A publication from Palais des Thés Contributors to this issue
Professor Philippe Amouyel (Planet Tea), Julie Schwob (recipe styling) Editorial team
Bénédicte Bortoli, Chloé Douzal, Mathias Minet Art direction and layout
Laurent Pinon and Aurore Jannin for Prototype Illustrations
Stéphane Humbert-Basset
Tea Sommelier, a step-by-step guide AN INFORMATIVE AND STRAIGHTFORWARD APPROACH TO TEA Every page is designed as a short freestanding lesson, each one dealing with a different subject. No matter how much time you have, two minutes or an hour, when you open this book you will learn something about tea: how the plant is grown, tasting techniques, the best teas in the world, the use of tea in cooking and more. This book will also make you want to go further, to deepen your knowledge, and might even encourage some readers to explore the vocation of tea sommelier! → Ref. L031 – €24.90
Le Guide de dégustation de l’amateur de thé AN IDEAL BOOK FOR ALL TEA LOVERS (IN FRENCH) The founders of Le Palais des Thés have been visiting the world’s plantations for more than 30 years, selecting the finest and rarest teas. In this book they reveal the secrets they have learned on their travels. Packed with fascinating insights, this guide will
take you to the tea gardens to meet the passionate and patient people who dedicate their knowledge to producing the world’s finest teas. Every year, tea experts François-Xavier Delmas and Mathias Minet taste thousands of teas. Here, they describe the art of tasting and provide essential advice on preparing tea. They also offer a selection of the teas they consider to be the finest in the world. → Ref. L027A – €25
In search of tea Discovery and knowledge AN INVITATION TO TRAVEL THROUGH THE TEA REGIONS OF THE WORLD Renowned tea expert François-Xavier Delmas writes passionately about his travels around the world, his in-depth knowledge of tea-producing countries and his most memorable experiences as well as the people he has met, from fleeting encounters to those who become long-standing friends. These short and evocative articles and the stunning photos that accompany them shine a light on traditions and on the skilled individuals who make the delicious teas you can find in stores and taste for yourselves. → Ref. L034 – €25
English translation
Marta Scott Proofreading
Nicole Foster Imaging & retouching services
Key Graphic
Palais des Thés
All translation, adaptation and reproduction rights in any form are reserved for all countries. Photo credits:
Palais des Thés background photo – François-Xavier Delmas: cover, pp.4, 6, 9, 10-11, 16, 20-21, 23, 32-33, 34, 39 • François Berger: p.8 • John Block: p.2 • Frédéric Lucano: pp.12, 13, 30, 31, 35 • Kristina Blokhin: p.15 • Guillaume Czerw: pp. 24, 25, 26, 27, 29, 36, 37 • Kenyon Manchego: pp. 28, 33, 38 • Alex Treadway: p.35 Customer service
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Corporate gifts
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“Meanwhile, let us have a sip of tea. The afternoon glow is brightening the bamboos, the fountains are bubbling with delight, the soughing of the pines is heard in our kettle. Let us dream of evanescence, and linger in the beautiful foolishness of things.”
4,90 €
K akuzô Ok akura The Book of Tea
palaisdesthes.com