Freshly picked tea leaves are left out to dry for a few hours to remove residual moisture. During this stage, the compounds responsible for a more or less grassy aroma appear.
By Geoffroy Gourdet
By Laetitia Portois
By Claire Antoine
CONTRIBUTORS
Claire Antoine
Claire is a master tea sommelier passionate about tea and food pairings. She also enjoys enhancing tea producers’ creations by pairing her favorite drink with other regional delights.
Elena Di Benedetto Elena loves to spend her day writing about tea while drinking it. A fan of Taiwanese oolongs, she feels transported by each cup she drinks, and is always discovering new facets of tea to fuel her passion.
Geoffroy Gourdet
Geoffroy Gourdet is a master tea sommelier who likes to combine emotion and technique when sharing his knowledge at the Rue Cherche-Midi store (Paris VI). He has a particular penchant for oolong and Pu Erh teas.
Chasing black dragons in Taiwan
What better reason to jet off to Taiwan than to discover the birthplace of Baozhong, the “black dragon” teas (oolongs) which paved the way for my discovery of single-estate teas. The opportunity to visit this island shaped like a tea leaf is one I could not refuse!
By Geoffroy Gourdet,
Master tea sommelier and assistant manager at Cherche-Midi store in Paris
Taiwan, the “beautiful island” (from formosa, the name given by the Portuguese when they arrived in the 16th century), there is much more than first meets the eye. When I arrive in Taipei, the capital is shrouded in clouds. My first outing in the city and I already feel like a tea camellia: sweating and infused! Humidity is favorable for producing high quality teas, and here it is dealt with a dose of oppressive heat to boot. For the first 24 hours, I decided to stay in the buzzing Ximending neighborhood, where hipsters sip on bubble teas and karaoke bars blaring out songs give the impression I am in Shibuya, Japan. But it is also here in the capital, along the Tamsui River in Dadaocheng, where you will find the district traditionally known for merchants trading in tea, medicinal herbs and textiles, which to this day still feels like ancient China. The multiple influences (Chinese, Korean, Japanese, North American) can be felt throughout the city, making Taiwan a gateway island between its tea growing past inherited from mainland China and a willfully forward-looking present. Before immersing myself in the plantations, I “taste” Taiwan, from one tea house to another. In particularly the various Bao Zhong, which were the first teas I fell for at Palais des Thés. I remember wondering at the time how a tea could have such naturally fragrant floral notes. It is also in Taipei that I will taste various old Pu Erh teas and unearth a few cups made by artisans from neighboring villages, before returning home. This is merely a glimpse into the country’s artisanal savoir-faire and national treasures!
My first Taiwanese tea camellia
Situated below the Tropic of Cancer, the island of Taiwan is home to many mountain ranges which provide a wet and humid climate, the ideal conditions for growing tea.
A large majority of the green teas produced on this mountainous island come from the Taipei region. The tea trade first started to grow in the north, when tea growers from Fujian, China, settled at the end of the 18th century. After a thirty-minute cable car ride, I reach Maokong (“cat’s hollows”), in the Wenshan district. The journey takes me over stretches of tea bushes, nestled among other lush green crops. I penetrate a jungle to the chorus of chirping crickets, before arriving at the Taipei Tea Promotion Center. This museum houses a display of machinery used to create Taiwanese teas, while the surrounding educational gardens feature a collection of tea camellia varieties grown specifically for oolong production. It is an extremely informative experience typical of this country where the knowledge and pleasure for food are naturally and generously shared with those who take
an interest in this drink. In a tea house perched on the mountainside, while preparing a Si Ji Chun the traditional gong fu cha way, served with Tie Guan Yin cakes, I admire the Camelliae sinensis whose leaves seem fairly young.
Up in the clouds
The following morning, I head to Longshan Buddhist temple in Taipei’s Wanhua district. It is one of the most important religious sites on the island in which Taiwanese people come to pray and make offerings to deities. While children and adults bring fruits, vegetables, sweets, flowers or drinks, I throw small, crescent-shaped, wooden blocks to the ground. This practice is a way of seeking divine guidance and reading your fate. However, not knowing how to interpret these divination blocks, who knows what the future has in store for me! Standing mightily on the roof of the temple, the dragon is watching me. This emblematic figure is everywhere, from food packaging to statues!
In the afternoon, a trip to Hualien is the perfect opportunity to visit Taroko Gorge, which takes its name from one of many indigenous tribes living in Taiwan. Like everywhere else throughout the island, locals stroll about holding either a mug, a disposable cup or a bottle of tea – flavored or unflavored. The east coast remains untouched, contrasting starkly with the more populated, industrial western shores.
Friendship tea
After a 300-kilometer trip aboard a regional train, I arrive in Tainan as night falls. The culinary and cultural capital of Taiwan (from pineapple cakes to chicken feet, anything goes) is dotted with tiny temples.
The dragon is a mythical figure frequently found throughout Taiwan, symbolizing wisdom, power, perseverance and knowledge.
Taiwan is renowned throughout the world for its exceptional teas and oolongs, in particularly its Bao Zhong tea, oolongs rolled tightly into balls, and its Bai Hao.
While I am looking for somewhere to grab a quick dinner, a Yixing clay teapot catches my eye on a small streetside stall. I try and figure out the menu of oolongs, choose a tea and a pretty cup. While the owner of the stall pours the tea from the precious teapot into a mug – when tradition meets modernity! – I suddenly realize I do not have any money on me. I awkwardly try to explain to him the situation.
“I’ll come by tomorrow,” I say, embarrassed by the mishap.
“Don’t worry,” he replies, “I’m closed tomorrow. Which cup do you like?” I barely have the chance to pick as he already wraps one up and offers it to me, wishing me goodbye. Before I leave, he uses an auto-translation tool to communicate with me in English: “Through tea, we make friends.”
During my trip, I will experience tea as a link that connects me to everyone who shares this passion. On the way back, I make a toast – gānbēi! – to friendship tea, which tastes so sweet.
Over the two days spent in this city, in which fighter jets fly over surveilling day and night, I have amassed numerous places where to try and buy Taiwanese teas. From the oldest tea shop in Taiwan (1860), I purchased several rare teas stored in old, traditional boxes.
In among the tea plants
To reach the Alishan Range, you have to take a road full of hairpin bends, surrounded by tea farms. At 1,000 to 1,500 meters above sea level, the district home to this mountain range is one of the most renowned regions in Taiwan for high-mountain teas. Like the fruit trees growing all around, tea bushes flourish in the favorable conditions, boasting an ecosystem full of vitality. In the middle of the plantations, I discover a bed and breakfast belonging to Li Ming, a tea producer. I am struck by the peace and quiet of this misty place, whose landscape I will discover the following day, once the clouds have lifted. The whole village gives off a fragrance distinctive to high-mountain teas, that of flowers mixed with soft buttery notes. That morning, Mr. Ming kindly shows me around where the tea is made, using a strange device connected to his telephone to translate from Mandarin into English the many long stages of the oolong-making process.
Tea leaves are picked by hand. Tea pickers can harvest up to 60 kg of leaves a day, which gives 12 kg of tea once dried.
Gong fu cha is the traditional Taiwanese tea ceremony. Tea leaves are infused several times using a high ratio of leaves to water, before being served in small teapots or a gaiwan.
Lots of young men and women work in this factory, with whom Li strives to impart his expertise. He invites me to smell a handful of leaves that have just wilted (to reduce their water content), pointing to the retractable roof which is used to regulate the light and heat intensity. Here, tea is a family affair. For the Mings, family members are either tea producers, tea shop owners or run a tea house. Li has even won awards for his black teas.
The unique character of Taiwanese teas
As a sign of welcome, Li Ming invites me to take part in a tea ceremony conducted by his daughter. During the hour-long ceremony, the young woman executes each gesture so carefully and gracefully, as she prepares and serves three teas: a Gao Shan Cha (a high-mountain tea), a Jin Xuan oolong, and a Jin Xuan Hong Cha black tea. All is calm as I taste them, to the gentle sound of water rippling in the background. There is a similarity with the Japanese method, in which the tea tasting ritual is codified. Similar to gong fu cha, the Taiwanese call this preparation method “Taiwan tea,” in a way of making it their own. Various small accessories are placed on a tray, each with their own function: a Yixing teapot, sometimes replaced by a gaiwan, the tea pitcher, the drinking cups and… the aroma cup. This Taiwanese invention is designed to enhance the appreciation of the tea’s aroma, preventing the steam from interfering. On this island off the coast of mainland China, I am constantly navigating between a respect for traditions and a spontaneous and relaxed approach to tea.
As I head back north towards Sun Moon Lake, whose region is home to the indigenous Thao tribe, I make another discovery specific to Taiwan: the Ruby 18 cultivar,* an assamica variant and a legacy of the Japanese occupation. Tea bushes planted near tourist sites produce highly oxidized black teas with warm aromas of vanilla and waxed wood.
As I bid farewell to Taiwan, I promise to return very soon for the Dong Fang Mei Ren. Nicknamed the “Oriental Beauty,” it gets its honey-like flavor from an insect that feeds on the tea leaves. My interest is certainly piqued. •
*A cultivar is a variety of tea plant.
THE CHINESE TEA EXPERIENCE
The historic birthplace of tea, The Middle Kingdom has been growing Camellia sinensis (the “Chinese tea plant”) for thousands of years and maintains a close link to this universal drink. Used as a remedy, currency, tax or offering, the cha (tea) that is much-loved all over Europe, is central to the daily lives of Chinese people.
From myth to the everyday
As the homeland of tea, China owes its chance “discovery” of this drink to Shennong, a mythical Chinese emperor and the father of Chinese medicine, in 2737 BC. While he was resting in the shade of a tea bush, a leaf is said to have fallen into his cup of boiling water… As legendary as it may seem, the tale shows that tea has been around since time immemorial. There is evidence to show that tea was consumed during the reign of King Wen, the founder of the Zhou dynasty (1027-221 BC).
Tea leaves were originally consumed as a medicinal remedy, fresh and raw straight after harvest. Up until the 12th century, green tea was drunk for its medicinal properties and as a stimulant, often in monasteries. During the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the first golden age of tea, the drink spread throughout the country, from villages to the imperial court. In the centuries that followed, tea remained just as popular, becoming a symbol of refinement and an inspiration for poets, writers and calligraphers who all celebrated its glory.
Tea drinking a codified practice
In The Classic of Tea (Cha Jing), the earliest known technical and poetic treatise on the subject, Lu Yu (723-804) describes the plant and establishes guidelines on how to prepare and drink tea. Leaves are compressed into bricks, then roasted, before being ground to a powder to be mixed with boiling water. A hole was pierced through the middle, making the bricks easier to transport as they became a form of currency. During the Tang dynasty, the tea bottle replaced the water boiler. And while the Song ruled (9601279), elegant ceramics were introduced to the tea ceremony. Tea was now ground to a fine powder using a mill stone, then whisked in boiling water until frothy. It was not until the Ming dynasty (1368-1644) that a decree put an end to the production of compressed tea, which was considered too costly and laborious to make. From then on, tea was consumed in its current form, infused in teapots and gaiwans.
From the end of the 16th century, tea was no longer only green, as the production of black tea (1590-1600), partially-oxidized teas (1725) and white teas (1796) began to develop. Tea was exported outside of China’s borders, then the continent, by land and then by sea. It wasn’t until the 18th century that tea-drinking became popular and widespread across Europe (especially in England and its colonies), when trading between China and the West became more direct and regular.
Ceramics and tea houses: tea as a way of life
In China, tea is more than just a drink: it is a partner for life and a social activity. Tea as a way of life is expressed in various ways. For example, artisanal wares made from porcelain, created in the 6th century. The recipe for making these prized objects, which were at their height during the Song era, was a long-held secret. Their refined aesthetic appealed to scholars and the nobility, before becoming a common feature across all homes.
Many social institutions linked to tea emerged, such as tea houses during the Tang dynasty, which were a place where people came to socialize. They originally hosted theatrical performances and operas, largely subsidized by the sale of tea on site. These houses were then used by people to barter and trade, before becoming reserved for the wealthy, so they could taste delicate teas in elegant porcelain. After being shut down during the Cultural Revolution in 1966 to 1976, today tea houses welcome customers of all walks of life. As tea has become more accessible to all, spreading throughout the country, tea houses play a role in promoting the national tea culture. People come to play games, to chat, and to find inner peace.
Chinese tea for the Chinese
In China, tea is one of the “seven necessities,” alongside other edible items (rice, oil, vinegar, soy sauce, salt) and fuel. Even today, the Chinese are proud of the wide variety of their tea plants and the several thousand different teas produced, which are mostly consumed locally. This is what is so special about this country: it drinks and appreciates what it produces, and also ensures that its best teas stay inside the country. That is not the only particularity: just take the most common way in which people prepare their tea every day. Chinese people toss tea leaves into their thermos flasks, which they regularly reinfuse and refill with hot water throughout the day. Tea – mainly green – is drunk without ceremony, at home, at work, in public places, on public transport, at a restaurant, and sometimes even between a sip of beer or a puff on a cigar! Traditionally, in restaurants, tea is not served during the meal, but before – as soon as you sit down, and at the end of the meal to aid digestion. There is no such thing as “tea time” in China: it is always time for tea, anytime, anywhere.
A new clientele conscious of quality and wellbeing
While tea remains an institution respected by all generations in China, with the image as “the drink that’s good for you,” it is not stuck in its traditions and rituals. For example, young, urbanite drinkers are conscious about drinking quality teas and they like to know if they are credibly sourced. Often from a middle- or upper-class background, this type of tea-drinking has become an integral part of their sophisticated lifestyle.¹ This renewed interest, particularly in the (richer) coastal provinces, contributes to the soaring price of grand crus teas (see insert on page 17). Good quality teas can be found in specialized shops or fine restaurants. Overall, the growing population, which consumes a lot of tea, has a greater purchasing power, and as such, this has contributed to the decline in the quantity of tea exported over the past two decades.
According to the legend, the dragon appears in the well every year to make the rain fall to ensure a good harvest.
A symbol of conviviality and a cherished gift
Tea is traditionally offered as a sign of hospitality and respect, whether at home or in a public place. Drinking a cup of tea is a pleasure to be shared, and refusing a cup is frowned upon. Tea brings together all generations on weekends or for special occasions, like weddings, where the chali (“tea gift”) is a gift from the groom’s family to his future bride. Wherever you go, be it to a store or a business, in the city or the countryside, you will always be welcomed with a cup of tea.
The country’s grand teas are a national pride and a highly-valued gift. They are a sign of wealth – offering a grand cru is like offering a fine wine in France – but they are very difficult to get your hands on, making them all the more desirable. •
LONG JING: THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN OF CHINESE GREEN TEAS
The most popular and well-known green tea in China, Long Jing takes its name – the “Dragon Well” – from a spring discovered almost 1,700 years ago. It comes from the hilly countryside surrounding the city of Hangzhou and the banks of the West Lake, an ancient tea-producing region. As its popularity grew, its cultivation gradually spread across many other provinces. Today, it is the most commonly consumed green tea in China and one of the most commonly imitated throughout the country. A first-flush Long Jing can fetch a very high price.
Tea culture around the world
Tell me how you drink your tea and I will tell you where you come from… From respecting traditions to innovative practices in preparing and enjoying tea, tea is an important social and cultural marker. It never stops changing and appearing in new guises, embracing lifestyles across the globe.
Whether you come from a tea-producing country or not, there is no set way to drink tea. Ceremonial practices steeped in tradition coexist alongside more recent, innovative trends. China shows great vitality by developing rather creative products, more so than a tea-growing country like Japan, to which China is often compared. From bubble teas to ready-to-drink beverages, there are numerous concepts out there, winning over young, city-dwelling consumers on the lookout for the latest trend. What’s more, traditional ceramic tea accessories have also undergone a more contemporary makeover by designers. Throughout the world, tea remains a drink associated with socializing, regardless of whether its drunk in a cup, a gaiwan, a glass or in a thermos, at home, in a public place, on public transport, in a tearoom or even in the street.
This map is designed to give an overview of tea in all its diversity in different countries, the unique associated drinking rituals, and traditional “recipes” still popular today…
TEA AND WINE: NATIONAL TREASURES
China and France are two countries with a rich culinary culture with a depth of bold flavors. Tea in China and wine in France are national treasures grown on exceptional terroirs. They share other similarities too: certain teas, like Pu Erh teas, are stored in cellars and there is often speculation on vintages and tasting competitions to select the grand crus. For all that, these two drinks play an integral roles in the daily lives of the local population.
Mint green tea, or “tea of hospitality”
Iced tea to go
Yerba mate in a gourd
Earl grey for afternoon tea
Single-estate and flavored teas
Milky salty teas (milk from horses, yaks, camels, goats, cows) or millet teas
Flavored bubble tea
Masala chai
Green tea infused in a glass
Green tea infused in a gaiwan
Green tea prepared as per Cha No Yu
Chai
Rooibos
Oolong: the Black Dragon Tea
Just like white, green and black teas, oolong (or wulong in Chinese) falls into a category of tea all of its own. Its enigmatic name means “black dragon,” a reference to its dark color and the twisted, curled shape formed as the long leaves dry. This tea offers such contrasting flavor, gentle and powerful, rich and delicate, both at the same time, making for a nuanced flavor profile that conjures up all facets of the dragon’s personality.
By Laetitia Portois
In China, oolong teas are also known as blue-green teas, in reference to the color of the infused tea leaves.
The origins of oolong tea can be found in China, in the Fujian and Guangdong provinces, where it is today a popular specialty. It is also called “blue-green tea,” in reference to the color of its leaves when infused. Historically, oolongs were first produced in 1725 in the mountainous Wuyishan region. The subtropical climate of the hills and mountains make the area perfect for growing the bushes used to make these teas. Oolong production then spread from the Wuyi mountains towards northern Guangdong, before being exported to Taiwan.
A tea of legends
Several legends tell the tale of how this colored tea came to be. The most well-known tells the story of Wu Liang, a peasant living in the Fujiyan province during the Qing dynasty. One day, while picking tea leaves, he spotted a dear in the distance. He stopped picking to hunt the animal, and after several hours he returns home to prepare his game, forgetting all about his tea leaves. Much later, he remembers his leaves and returns to find they have turned black. He roasts them before infusing, and is pleasantly surprised by the sweet and complex favors. Fascinated by his discovery, he shares his secret with locals, and the name Wu Liang becomes “Wu Long Cha ” –black dragon tea.
One tea color, infinite possibilities
There are an infinite number of oolong teas, which vary depending on the growing region, the tea plant variety, the type of leave used, the harvesting period, and – in particular – the level of oxidation, how long they are roasted for, and how the leaves are rolled. There are four different oolong regions: the renowned Feng Huang Dan Cong (produced around Phoenix Mountain in the Guangdong province), teas from the rocky Wu Yi mountain (Wu Yi Yancha), teas from Anxi county (famous for its Anxi Tie Guan Yin) and oolongs from Taiwan.
While all tea colors can be produced from the Camellia sinensis, when it comes to oolongs, it needs a tea plant whose leaves can withstand the rigorous rolling and fixation techniques.
TAIWAN: OOLONG ISLAND
From the end of the 18th century, Taiwan, then annexed by China, produced tea in very small quantities from tea plants brought from Fujian. It was only in 1949 that production took off, when Chiang Kai-shek fled to the island following his defeat to Mao Zedong during the civil war. The Chinese refugees that followed brought with them all their tea-production expertise. The land is particularly fertile and ideally humid, so much so that more than 20,000 hectares are now devoted to cultivating these teas of exceptional quality, which have captured the attention of drinkers worldwide.
Oolong teas are often produced using the most mature tea leaves as they contain less tannins and caffeine.
Légendes
Mastering the oxidation process
These days, oolongs teas are often distinguished according to their level of oxidation, which fall into two different categories: lightly-oxidized and heavily-oxidized teas. There are also oolong teas which have been partially oxidized.
Oolong tea production is a complex process. The leaves harvested must not be too old, nor too tender. Once picked, they are left to dry (in the sun or in a room) for one to four hours. Next comes the sweating stage, during which oxidation takes place. This step is crucial, because this is when the tea’s certain aromatic notes develop. The leaves are left to sweat in a warm, humid place and are tossed regularly (by hand or by machine). Unlike the oxidation process for black teas, which happens when the leaves are rolled, the process occurs naturally in oolongs, helped along by the constant stirring. The leaf’s cellular structure then releases an enzyme which reacts with oxygen in the air.
Tea leaves can be harvested any time of year. However, at high-altitude farms in China and Taiwan, the tea plant enters a period of dormancy during winter. As such, the harvesting period is from April to November.
1. See Bruits
The hardest part is determining the right time to stop the process, depending on the desired sensorial characteristics. Like a cellar master for wine, the producer uses their senses to help them decide when to stop the oxidation process. Slightly oxidized teas will generally develop vegetal and floral notes. According to the “Taiwanese” method, the sweating stage is longer, resulting in a higher level of oxidation, revealing a fruitier and dark amber liquor.
Playing with fire
Next, the leaves are roasted in drum ovens or woks at extremely high temperatures over 200°C. The heat destroys the enzyme responsible for oxidation, ensuring that the leaves are ready for the next step: rolling. While the leaves are still warm, some are simply crumpled (as is the case for Bao Zhong), others are twisted or rolled into beads (like for Dong Ding). They are then dried at 100°C for 20 minutes.
Awakening the dragon
Long drank by those in the know and considered as an “insider delicacy,” these days oolong teas are winning over more and more drinkers with their rich flavor profile and nuanced notes. Floral, milky, buttery, fruity, woody, roasted, each infusion paints a palette of aromas for a delightful tasting experience. The best way to enjoy one is the traditional way, infused as per the gong fu cha method,1 using a gaiwan or a Yixing clay teapot. This small teapot has a rather distinctive feature: its porous character has good heatretaining qualities, and as it seasons with use, it is able to store and absorb aromas of the tea it has been used to brew. Boiling water is poured directly onto the leaves. The first infusion only lasts a few seconds and is discarded immediately. This step is thought to “awaken the dragon”: it washes the rolled leaves and lets them open out. What follows is a succession of infusions. Sometimes you may need to wait until the fifth or sixth to achieve the perfect balance. Depending on the oolong you choose, you will get to experience the full power of every layer of flavor with each infusion, or the gentle buttery notes which line the palate, like a sleeping dragon. •
ROCK TEA
The tea plants that produce these exceptional teas grow in the heart of the Wuyi Mountains. The natural park offers a preserved ecosystem featuring volcanic rock, a blanket of forest and 36 peaks and 99 crags. Tea is grown on each crag, and the leaves are used to make rock teas (or Yancha). Each Yancha is named after the rock on which it grows. Each cup reveals the rich mineral flavor of its unique terroir. Chinese tea lovers appreciate this minerality, which they call yan yun or “rock rhyme.”
Tasting Dragon Scales tea
Let me take you on a journey to the north of Vietnam, near to the border with the Chinese province of Yunnan, to discover a tea with a rather mysterious name: Dragon Scales tea. Located 300 kilometers from Hanoi, this region is populated by numerous indigenous peoples living in the middle of one of the most beautiful places in the country.
By Claire Antoine
Claire Antoine became a Master Tea Sommelier in June 2023. She first discovered the fascinating world of tea and food pairings at Palais des Thés ten years ago, a skill she puts to use as often as possible. One of her aims is to enhance tea producers’ creations by pairing them with other regional delights.
Tea is first tasted with the eyes: admire the leaves, take in their shape and how they’ve been made… I’ve always been impressed by the visual richness on display, and all the secrets that it reveals: the tea leaf’s final shape as evidence of man’s handiwork and the influence that all these factors will have once the tea is infused. So come join me in discovering the most astonishing white tea I have ever tasted!
Unusual-looking scales
This tea’s most distinctive feature, which gives it its unusual, scale-like shape, comes from the fact that it is made not from the
well-known Camellia sinensis, but from a Camellia taliensis, endemic to the Ha Giang region. The leaf’s shape is like no other: the bud forms multiple branch points which gives it that distinctive dragon-scale look. The intriguing name also lives up to its equally intriguing flavor. Once infused and ready to be drank, many surprises are in store: the tea liquor yields a buttercup yellow glow, with a fresh and floral aroma and a generous, supple and oily texture, with a sweet note of tropical fruits. I detect passion fruit and lychee,
2. Multiple infusions in quick succession in a gaiwan.
1. Scale-like leaves from the Camellia taliensis
which remind me of my travels to faraway lands. The evocative power of tea at work!
Brewing in a giawan
I like to brew this tea in a gaiwan. I particularly like this brewing accessory because it is so easy to do multiple infusions of the same leaf, with each revealing the tea’s different facets.
There is no need to weigh the leaves when following this method, I simply go by eye. I prefer this spontaneous approach which results in a different liquor and taste surprises with each new infusion.
Using a gaiwan is an enjoyable sensorial experience: as the dragon scales absorb the water, they slowly release their aromatic richness. The liquor is then poured into a beautiful cup for drinking. But before I do, I first like to admire the steeping leaves, inhaling their aroma. And so, the gustatory journey can begin!
The finishing touch to a meal
I often prepare this tea to accompany certain dishes. It is delicious with a cheese board, especially with a brocciu or even an ambrucciata, a brocciu-based dessert, a pairing that brings the Isle of Beauty and the Tay Con Linh mountain to the same table. This tea also pairs well with any bittersweet dark chocolate-based desserts, like a chocolate mousse. The blend of strong, powerful cocoa is softened by the tea’s sweet flavor, while notes of exotic fruits envelop the palate. Finishing a meal with a cup of Dragon Scales is always a pure joy!
Dragon Scales
Cultivar Camellia taliensis
Origin Tay Con Linh (Han Giang region)
BrEWing guiDE
→ Gong fu cha (in a gaiwan), multiple successive infusions
FOOD PairingS
Brocciu, dark chocolate
3. The beautiful buttercup-toned liquor.
4. Pair this gourmet tea with brocciu cheese or dark chocolate.
Pu Erh Imperial marbled eggs
Pu Erh is a fermented tea with a deliciously umami flavor, which lends well its wintery woody and mushroom aromas when paired with eggs.
Serves six
6 eggs
15 g Pu Erh Imperial (for 300 ml of water)
1 cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 star anise A pinch of salt
1. Put the eggs in large pot of cold water.
2. Bring to the boil and cook for ten minutes. Drain the water and run the eggs under cold water.
3. Gently tap the shell of each egg all around to create cracks all over.
4. Put the eggs in the water along with the Pu Erh Imperial, cinnamon, star anise, soy sauce and salt, and simmer for twenty minutes.
5. Leave to cool. The eggs can be kept in the fridge for up to two days.
Serving suggestion
Pu Erh imPErial → Ref. D215AM – €12 per 100 g
Pair the marbled eggs with pak choi or eggplant sautéed with garlic.
Ba Bao Cha
The melodic name Ba Bao Cha means “eight treasures tea” and is inspired by its eight ingredients. This traditional recipe is sweet and highly fragrant, which varies from family to family. Its thanks to this plurality that it evolves and endures in Chinese culture, which in turn also gives it is numerous healing properties.
By Elena Di Benedetto
Jujube, goji berries, chrysanthemum, ginseng, ginger, rose petals, honey, lotus, green tea, oolong... These are just some of the ingredients that can go into Ba Bao Cha. So, perhaps that makes more than eight ingredients, but that is because each region and even each family has its own favorite composition. It varies according to taste, but also to the produce available depending on the country’s immense arable land resources (more than 9.5 million km 2!).
Tea on the Silk Road
As is often the case with tea, history and legend become intertwined. As such, two explications are given that retrace the emergence and popularization of Ba Bao Cha. According to the first, the “eight treasure tea” dates from the Tang
dynasty (618-907). Served to nomadic Hui and Dong Xiang people who gathered around China’s north-eastern borders, the beverage brought them a little bit of comfort before continuing their long journey along the Silk Road. It was when they made it to eastern China and gradually settled down that this unique recipe spread throughout the country, particularly in Yunnan.
The second theory relates to the 19th century Empress Dowager Cixi, whose religious devotion earned her the nickname “Old Buddha,” – which did not stop her from having an obsession with youth! She is said to have ordered her
court to create an elixir to keep both her mind sharp and preserve her beauty. And so, the imperial doctors presented her with this mix of fruits, flowers and roots claiming to have such health-giving virtues, particularly antioxidants. They believed that drinking this blend all year round would bring lasting youth and longevity, earning Ba Bao Cha its good reputation.
Benefits and symbols
Ba Bao Cha is as highly symbolic as it is health-giving. Each ingredient is supposed to bring either a spiritual or physical benefit. Cause or consequence, these
ingredients are highly regarded in Chinese medicine: in fact, it was doctor Li Shizen, author of Bencao Gangmu , an encyclopedia of Chinese medicine published in the 16 th century, who compiled the list of the most frequently-used ingredients in the recipe.
Jasmine represents beauty, kindness and happiness, whereas apple evokes wisdom and peace, and grapes symbolize prosperity and fertility. Orange, commonly eaten during the Chinese New Year, would bring good fortune, happiness and wealth, as too would goji berry.
In terms of the health-giving benefits, ginseng would ensure longevity, dried dates and lotus seed would aid digestion, and chrysanthemum flowers would help support the body’s natural defenses. Ba Bao Cha would thus become renowned for its numerous health-improving properties, not only to aid digestion, but to boost the immune system, reduce cholesterol
and improve blood circulation. A unique blend promising a myriad of miracles, despite no two blends being ever the same!
The tea for special occasions
Nowadays, Ba Bao Cha is usually served during special occasions or to very important guests. Served hot or cold, it symbolizes good fortune, happiness and prosperity. It is a delicious tea with an ever-changing palette of flavors, making it the perfect partner for a celebratory meal,
where it pairs wonderfully with Sichuan cuisine, as well as the cuisines of the Yunnan and Zhejiang provinces. It is one to be enjoyed all throughout the Year of the Dragon! •
YEAR OF THE DRAGON BA BAO CHA
To celebrate the Year of the Dragon, Palais des Thés is offering its own unique and exceptionally fragrant Ba Bao Cha creation. It is made from a base of jasmine and oolong (“black dragon”) teas. The latter is a roasted black tea whose leaves resemble a dragon’s body. Added to the mix is a combination of apple, grape, orange, goji berry, ginseng and rose, making for a deliciously delicate interpretation of a traditional Ba Bao Cha. When paired with a cherry clafoutis or apple crumble, its gentle fruity and floral notes are revealed in all their glory, while served alongside a summer roll will create a fresh contrast.
Tie Guan Yin, the taste of fire
Tie Guan Yin is one of the oldest and most celebrated oolongs in China. Known as the “Iron Goddess of Mercy,” this valiant nickname perfectly captures the reputation of this legendary tea from Fujian, especially when it renders what the Chinese would describe as “the taste of fire.”
By Elena Di Benedetto
The origins of the Tie Guan Yin are believed to be found in a legend dating from the Ming dynasty (1368-1644). In Anxi County, in the heart of Fujian in eastern China, there was a Buddhist temple dedicated to Guanyin, the goddess of Mercy.
Tea and divinity
Legend has it that the tea was named after a rundown iron statue of the goddess, which was inside a temple also in a state of neglect. One man,
a farmer named Wei Yin, was moved by the ruinous state, so he decided to take care of the place, as well as the goddess, cleaning and praying to it regularly. One evening in 1725, the goddess appeared to him in a dream to thank him for his devotion, giving him mysterious instructions on how to find nearby treasure, which he was to share with his friends. The next day, Wei Yin found a tea shoot on the statue. He planted it and shared cuttings with others…. and so, the Tie Guan Yin was born.
A unique oolong
Tie Guan Yin refers to both the tea and the cultivar, a tea plant with big, thick, oval leaves sometimes called “Red Heart Guan Yin,” owing to the almost purple tips of the buds. However, the leaves alone are not what makes this an exceptional tea – it is the production process which truly sets it apart. There are two types of Tie Guan Yin. The first is made
according to the traditional Chinese way, whereby the leaves are partially oxidized before ending with a fairly long roasting process. The oxidation process is less intense in the second method, producing an Anxi Tie Guan Yin. While it is prized on the international market and its price fluctuates uncontrollably, Chinese drinkers actually prefer the former, making Tie Guan Yin one of the
Tie Guan Yin is one of the most revered oolong teas in China.
most popular teas, especially during the gong fu cha tasting ceremony.
Heavily roasted
According to the Chinese expression, Tie Guan Yin must traditionally have the “taste of fire,” revealing a blend of smoky, mineral notes.
Successive infusions will reveal all the complexity of this
partially-oxidized tea. When made in a gaiwan, it can be reinfused over and again, allowing the drinker to explore its various fruity and floral notes. Its subtle aromas and taste that lingers in the mouth make it the perfect partner in a cocktail, such as an Oolong Old Fashioned. It also pairs wonderfully with pasta with gorgonzola and walnuts, for something a little off the beaten path.
There’s no tastier way to unravel the enigma that is the Goddess of Mercy, one sip at a time. •
Our selection of dragon teas
Enjoy grand crus, single-estate teas and a flavored tea in our Chinese-inspired tea accessories, to bring you peace and happiness this Year of the Dragon.
1. Jasmine Pearls
This green tea scented with real jasmine flowers goes by the Chinese name Moli Longzhu (“dragon pearl jasmine”). Its rolled shape is said to resemble the pearl of wisdom ensnared by the dragon’s claws.
Ref. D2092AM – €34 per 100 g
2. Dragon Scales
A grand cru tea made from fascinating distinctive buds that look like dragon scales. A rare tea with notes of exotic fruits and grapefruit.
Ref. D3372AM – €55 per 100 g
3. Long Jing Imperial
This exceptional Chinese green tea offers a delicate aroma filled with beautiful nutty nuances.
Ref. D197AM – €21 per 100 g
4. Long Jing
“Dragon’s Well” is the most popular green tea in China. It offers a complex aromatic profile of vegetal and minerals notes, with a roasted chestnut finish.
Ref. D198AM – €16 per 100 g
3.
5 and 9. A wide range of Chinese oolong teas
This family of teas originates from China, which gave oolong teas the name “black dragon.” Discover our range in store or online.
6. Milky Oolong
Produced in Thailand, this oolong develops delicious buttery notes revealing a naturally milky aroma with a surprising hint of vanilla.
Ref. D316AM – €17 per 100 g
7. Jade Oolong
This tasty oolong hailing from the island of Java is rolled into pearls and delivers an elegant floral and vanilla aroma.
Ref. D1160AM – €21 per 100 g
8. Bao Zhong from Mae Salong
The leaves of this oolong are delicately crumpled and twisted and slightly oxidized. It reveals delicious notes of white flowers and is the perfect tea for any time of day.
Ref. D2650AM – €18.90 per 100 g
1. Dragon Cup (11 cl)
Ref. N326 – €20
2. and 3. Year of the Dragon tea caddy
Ref. N421 – €6 metal caddy storing 100 g
Ref. N420 – €6 metal caddy storing 100 g
4. Long Dan “Dragon Egg” Teapot (11 cl)
The classic shape of this Yixing teapot is said to resemble a dragon’s egg. Handcrafted by local artisans using Zi Ni clay, this teapot is used to prepare tea according to the traditional gong fu cha tea method. Ref. M267 – €80
5. Dragon Ba Bao Cha
This unique flavored creation is our interpretation of the “eight treasures tea,” featuring a blend of oolong and jasmine green teas with apple, grape, orange, goji berry, ginseng and rose. Ref. 4722 – €15 per 100 g
Visiting tea regions together
Last October, twelve members of staff joined our Tea Explorers in their quest for exceptional teas. Laurie, Camille, Laurence, Audrey, Marc and Geoffroy followed Palais des Thés founder, François-Xavier Delmas, to the heart of the Darjeeling tea-growing region. Here, they tried their hand at picking leaves in the gardens of Puttabong, and discovered the various different stages behind the process for making their black teas. A few hundred kilometers away, Charlotte, Bruna, Émelyne, Romain, Kévin and Lucas joined Léo Perrin on the steep slopes leading towards some of the most
Your loyalty card now available on your smartphone
You can now save your Théophile loyalty card to your smartphone – so you’ll never forget it again! Simply scan the QR code below, sign in and add the card to your Wallet on iOS and Android. You can check your status and see how many buds you have collected whenever you want, saving you time at the checkout.
The best way to truly learn about and share our passion for tea is by visiting those for whom tea is their livelihood. Over the past twenty years, our employees have been given the chance to travel to tea-producing countries, to meet the growers with whom we have been working for many years. Scan the QR code to get your loyalty card directly on your mobile.
breath-taking tea farms in Nepal. From Shangri-La to Pathivara via Kalapani, they were able to capture the full extent of how truly diverse these tea farms are, not just in their size but also in the range of teas they produce. They tasted delicious teas, freshly produced in La Mandalathe smallest tea farm in the country, and tried to make their own teas too. Whether you are a product manager, salesperson, IT engineer or stock manager, every employee has the opportunity at some point in their career to head off to teaproducing lands to unravel their mysteries!
Palais des Thés, patron of the Natural History Museum
One of our main priorities is to actively help preserve biodiversity in tea regions. But we also want to make an impact where we can and act on our own scale. In line with our commitments, we have chosen to support the work of the French Natural History Museum by becoming a patron of its Vigie Nature citizen science program. Led by the Office français de la biodiversité, the initiative aims to study the future of biodiversity in France in the face of global changes. Our contribution over the next three years will help finance the position of an expert botanist, who will be responsible for leading three observatories focused on flora. Watch this space!
