THE MAGAZINE FROM PALAIS DES THÉS
Issue 92 Summer 2024
of Marketing
Time for tea in France
This summer, tea has the place of honor here in France – and aren’t we proud! For several years now, we have had the joy of seeing tea farms bloom across our countryside, in Brittany, the French Basque Country and even in the Pyrenees, as the climate in these regions is becoming conducive to tea growing (read “Tea and climate change” page 14 sq). While France is still far from being able to compete in terms of volume with major tea-producing countries like China, India and Japan, French tea stands out because it is like no other. Inventive, flavor-packed and consciously produced: it embodies this country to a T. The tea plants are planted sustainably and in harmony with their surrounding ecosystem, yielding a small batch of high quality tea. Some of the producers have even trained at our Tea School, while others have welcomed us into their farms to tell us all about their tea adventure in our French podcast Un thé, un voyage.
To satisfy your curiosity, we are always looking to tantalize your taste buds with surprises. This summer, every time you visit our stores, you can discover some unexpected herbal infusions featuring bark chips made from wooden barrels used for aging cognac. This inventive creation comes from one of the French producers in the Lot department, who supplies some of the most reputed wine and spirit houses. We are certainly keeping a close eye on all the latest goings-on in the world of French teas and herbal teas.
Some of you will also be able to discover and taste French tea in our stores, which will soon be available for the very first time and in very limited quantities.
Planting trees among tea plants helps soil retain moisture and improve irrigation.
Lucile Block de Friberg Head
The tea plant, or Camellia sinensis , produces flowers when the bud is not harvested to make tea.
By Léo Dugué-Perrin
By Elena Di Benedetto
By Evelyne Eybert and Elena Di Benedetto
By Thomas Boularouah
CONTRIBUTORS
Thomas Boularouah
Thomas is a master tea sommelier who manages the Rue Ordener store in Paris. He has an emotional attachment to ceramic teaware which enhance the tea drinking experience.
Evelyne Eybert
After working as a tea sommelier in the Rue Mouffetard store in Paris, Evelyne is now an administrative assistant at our head office. She has a penchant for Chinese teas and enjoys practicing traditional tea rituals.
Léo Dugué-Perrin
Tea Explorer Léo scours tea farms in search of the finest teas. He delights in sharing his finds and talking about all the people he meets during his travels.
Spring harvest in China
The Covid pandemic created physical barriers for artisanal tea producers. Digital communication replaced the handshake, having your feet firmly on the tea farm, and a cup of tea shared with others. My last trip to China was years ago – four to be precise, when I spent a few days in the Yunnan province. In mid-March, I decided to fly off to Shanghai just before Qingming, or “Clear Brightness Festival,” a short window of time in which the first flush is harvested, resulting in exceptional teas renowned for their rarity and delicate flavor.
By Léo Dugué-Perrin, Tea Explorer
Tea bushes are pruned to an average height of 1.2 meters, making it easier for tea pickers to harvest.
I have been traveling across tea-producing countries since I was nineteen years old. Well before I turned my passion into a career, I had already visited the majority of the world’s tea-producing regions. Yet, I had never been to the Hanghzou province, where the most wonderful Chinese green teas are produced. Roughly two hundred kilometers away from Shanghai, this city is known for being the birthplace of the most renowned tea in all of China: the Long Jing.
Tea and university
I had in mind a picture-postcard Hangzhou of old: the former capital of the Song dynasty with its West Lake surrounded by majestic temples and pagodas, and all its lush, wild vegetation. And here I am, being welcomed into my hotel by a robot with fluttering eyelashes which scans my passport – and my face. In this city which has nearly seven million inhabitants, technology has advanced in leaps and bounds in the space of a few years. The day after I arrive, I have an appointment to meet professor Liang. Palais de Thés has been working for more than thirty years with this university lecturer and scientist, who is head of the tea department at Zhejiang Agricultural University and who also happens to be a tea producer. It is thanks to a sales assistant in one of the very first Palais des Thés stores, who had studied at this university, that Palais des Thés founder François-Xavier Delmas met him. At the time, professor Liang was carrying out experimental research on cultivars which are today the origin of our best-selling Long Jing Imperial. After a short hour’s drive, we reach the hills of Long Jing, leaving behind the megalopolis and its robots! Like in many tea-producing regions, green teas harvested in spring (“pre-Qingming”) are considered to be the best and mark the start of the season. They come from prestigious terroirs. Here, like in many other countries, drought and lack of rain have slowed the growth of new leaves appearing thus delaying the harvest. Give or take a few days and I could have missed these promising new shoots.
Professor Liang shows me around some farms which he part owns. He is nothing like a businessman looking to make a sell. What this passionate educator loves doing most of all is telling me about the new cultivars he has planted and cannot wait to test with his students. He produces different qualities of Long Jing depending on the type of tea plant and the harvest. This sense of innovation fascinates me.
That day, the weather was still rather cool. His five harvesters each only picked one kilo of tea, the equivalent of 250 grams of loose leaf tea. It is these tiny, delicate buds which, at this time of year, are still unripe that will make the finest Long Jing tea. Geese and chickens roam freely among the rows of tea bushes, which themselves are surrounded by wild grass and various tree species, buzzing with insects and flapping birds. There is no secret to producing good tea! While a meticulous production process is key, there must first be biodiversity, a sign of a mutual relationship between tea growing and nature. To truly appreciate the diverse mix of flora and fauna, I simply have to open my eyes, feel the organic matter by taking a handful of soil, and listen to the faint sound of birdsong, which is still sparse at this season. Today’s pick will be carefully “tossed” in a wok before their shape flattens, without being broken. In the factory adjoining the farm, we drink a Long Jing. We do not follow a tea ceremony, instead we drink it as it is enjoyed every day by many: a handful of leaves thrown into a glass with warm water poured over. Of course, I will not be able appreciate the full complexity of flavor that comes with a traditional tea ceremony, but I take pleasure in seeing the tea leaves dance about freely in my cup.
Professor Liang produces the Long Jing tea found in our stores. He also teaches at Zhejiang university.
Lu Yu is the author of Cha Jing , the earliest known work dedicated to tea and written in the 8th century.
Being helpful
In the afternoon, we head back to the university where professor Liang teaches. At this remarkable place, you can study everything there is to know about tea, take part in trials at their cutting-edge laboratories, and learn all about tea rituals. Meidy and I, who is accompanying me on this trip and selects the company’s single-estate teas, were asked to organize a conference on the tea market in Europe. Knowledge-sharing is one of Palais des Thés’ core values. What could be more exciting than talking about balancing the economic challenges with the high standard of quality we expect in tea making, in front of those who are likely to become the next generation of tea producers in China! Europe has some of the strictest regulations in the world concerning pesticide residue standards and “organic” labelling, with long and costly analysis required first in China, then in France. As a tea brand we welcome better traceability for the teas we offer our customers, but these regulations can be off-putting for farmers. The young Chinese audience in front of us understands these constraints and we feel they are capable of taking them on board. Being helpful is, quite simply, what fuels my passion.
If we have worked with professor Liang for so long, buying his teas at a fair price, it is because he always produces clean teas, even without the official certification. After the conference, we head to Zhejiang tea market where I find the Chinese buyers’ behavior amusing. For them, making a trade comes first, whereas we maintain a relationship with professor Liang based above all on trust.
“Why don’t you make black or white Long Jing tea?” I ask him as we weave between two aisles in this huge warehouse which brings together producers and buyers from across the region.
“Is there a market for it in Europe?” asks professor Liang pragmatically.
“I don’t know yet, but let’s try! Let’s buy several kilos and taste it. If it’s good, maybe it will be the Long Jing of tomorrow!”
Awestruck
The next day, professor Liang takes me to visit the picturesque spots around West Lake, a few kilometers south-west of Hangzhou. We first make a quick stop at the statue of Lu Yu (733-804), author of The Classic of Tea. Here, tea is steeped in legends, which the motherland has managed to preserve. During my childhood, I was brought up listening to Breton legends, which has given me a taste for tales which transport you far away from the distractions of our world. Tea awakens the senses and the imagination, and the dragon is never far away… I am awestruck when I see the Dragon Well (the literal translation from Chinese of Long Jing), which gave its name to this prestigious eponymous tea. I ripple the water with a stick and admire how it appears to magically change color in the light. Tea-lovers flock to this site in pilgrimage. The line to reach the Dreaming of the Tiger Spring is so long that I have to give up on the idea of filling my bottle with its water, which would be best for infusing a Long Jing tea. As night falls, we leave the dragons and tigers behind for a tea ceremony performed by a young Chinese woman in costume. She is a little too dressed up not to see it as an amusing comedy for passing tourists...
Still with green tea in mind, the following day sees me head out to the mountains to where Anji Bai Cha is produced. The young buds of different shades of light green look almost like white jade, which is how it got its Chinese name, Anji white tea. Here, organic tea production is in full flourish. Once again, observing the tea plants in their surroundings simply suggests the quality of the teas produced. In this cooler area, the harvest has not yet started. In China, the market is structured in such a way that, even if we know the producers, you have to go through an export trading company to buy the tea. Michael will be my guide in Fuzhou. This lively and creative man is also a tea explorer. Michael understands our taste for excellence at Palais de Thés. Everything he unearths is good! Our previously virtual exchanges are now taking on another dimension. Cup after cup, we chat happily about tea today and tomorrow.
Drinking scholars’ tea
In China, train stations are often located on the outskirts of a city and are as big as our airports. The easiest way to cross this immense country is by train. And so, I embark on a journey to Huangshan, the “yellow mountains,” which are also renowned for their green teas. At three hundred to eight hundred meters above sea level, this mountain range in Anhui has the ideal conditions for growing tea. Huangshan Mao Feng tea’s reputation lies on its carefully selected, hand-picked leaves and its production process: only the mature bud and one leaf is plucked, then rolled by hand to obtain its characteristic “bird tongue” shape. In my wooden hotel in the old town, my mind turns to this tea which is associated with scholars who composed poems contemplating nature. Nature appears to be my ally on this trip: I arrived just in time for the first days of the spring harvest. A cobblestone path leads to a well-kept garden where tea bushes, cherry trees and quince trees coexist. Along every step of the tea-making process, each tiny leaf is important. Ding Gu Da Fang is also produced here. I once considered this tea as an imitation of Long Jing, yet I have now discovered its strong character. Produced from a different cultivar and in different soil, the Ding Gu Da Fang I drink
The oxidized leaves belong to the Red Dragon black tea, a name which evokes Chinese red teas and Taiwanese black teas.
that morning develops nutty notes with an exceptional aroma of summer berries and flowers. It can be infused multiple times, over and over again. These teas have such varied flavor profiles, I feel like I am tasting a whole garden in a cup. I leave the tea farm with a few leaves that have not yet been fully sorted. When I return to France, a “finished” sample is waiting for me, which, if we chose it, will be exactly like what will be sold in store. One of my favorite things about my job is being able to offer tea lovers the freshest tea possible. My journey exploring green tea ends sitting in one of those restaurants where the Chinese locals come in groups to share a meal, chain-smoking and accompanied with hot tea. The Lazy Susan is overflowing with a selection of dishes, which everyone shares: a sip of sea cucumber soup, a mouthful of gelatinous jellyfish, a slice of fermented fish which smells stronger than it tastes!
Taste the Red Dragon
Fast, modern and efficient: the train from Huangshan to Pu’er only takes eleven hours. I am torn between admiring the landscapes roll by or watching the scene playing out inside the train: a bit of pushing and shoving here, spitting there, along with some non-stop snacking. With Young, a young man who decided to produce tea in the mountains, we take the old bridleway which has since been modernized. When we stop at the roadside to buy a watermelon, the seller heckles us. The seventy-year-old woman hands me a QR code to pay for the fruit – the telephone being the only means of payment in the area – before sharing her secret: I am the first European she has ever met. She sums up her country’s contradictions in a few words and in one gesture: connected and disconnected. The farm we are visiting is located in Ximeng, an autonomous county home to the Wa people. We are mere kilometers away from the Myanmar border. Thirty years ago, the tea farm’s owner opened a gold mine, as well as this tea farm about twenty kilometers away, to provide work for the miners’ families. Today the mine has closed, but lots of Wa work at this leading farm. However, with the new generation wanting to leave the mountains for the city, the future of tea growing here remains uncertain. In this region of Yunnan where everyone makes the rather lucrative Pu Erh tea, these producers wanted to stand out by importing Jin Xuan, a Taiwanese cultivar traditionally used to make oolong teas. Used here to create green teas, it produces a very aromatic tea which develops unusual scents for this type of tea with oxidized notes and hints of wood (wicker), fruit (lychee, raspberry), flowers (rose) specific to this variety of tea plant. The farmers did me the honor of waiting for me to arrive and postponing harvest and the production process for two days so that I could have the first Red Dragon of the season. Its name evokes both Chinese red teas (Hong Cha) and Taiwanese black teas (the famous “black dragon,” a literal translation of oolong).
I relish my opportunity to have finally met the artisan behind our iconic Long Jing, who remains a reference for our brand and for tea lovers, but also to have met the students who will perhaps write the future of tea, and the tea enthusiasts who are both “my” producers but also my friends. I leave China with the satisfaction of having picked the best Grands Crus teas, and undoubtedly sowing innovative ideas among these hard-working and talented people, without whom we could not satisfy your high standards in taste. •
TEA AND CLIMATE CHANGE
Tea is made with leaves harvested from a bush that is particularly vulnerable to changes in its environment. The climate crisis is likely to disrupt tea cultivation ecosystems in a way that is set to worsen in the future. Weakened by unpredictable extreme weather, tea production as we know it today is under threat. Faced with these growing challenges, the tea industry is swinging into action to understand and adapt to these changes.
Tea’s increasing popularity
Tea is currently the second most-consumed beverage in the world, after water. According to a report published by the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO)1 in 2020,2 global consumption is expected to increase over the next ten years due to population growth. In order to meet this everincreasing demand, annual growth of 7.5% for green tea production and 2.2% for black tea production is required. While this represents a source of income for tea-producing regions and rural communities in developing countries, this increase also places significant stress on agricultural land. However, tea can only be produced in certain agroecological conditions and in a limited number of countries – many of which are heavily affected by the climate crisis.
Impact on yield and quality
The tea plant grows at high altitudes (between 300 and 2,500 meters above sea level) and requires plenty of rainy days and sunny spells. These conditions are vital to ensure that the essential oils which give tea its flavor will develop. The ideal climate can be found in regions where rainy and dry seasons alternate (Assam and Darjeeling in India, the subtropical mountains in China, Sri Lanka, Indonesia and Japan). However, the climate has become increasingly instable over the past few years, with extreme droughts in China and Kenya, and flooding in India, seriously impacting the amount of tea produced and its quality.
Effects of the climate crisis on the tea plant
Extreme rainfall can even prevent the tea bush from flourishing. In July 2022, the state of Assam had one month’s worth of rain falling in a day. Abnormal rainfall like this waterlogs the soil and can lead to insects and parasites breeding in excessive numbers, which damage the roots and cause the tea plant to rot. Furthermore, rainfall distribution in the region is becoming
1. The FAO is a specialized agency of the United Nations founded in 1945. Its goal is to achieve global food security, by directing efforts in the agricultural industries directly linked to food production.
2. “Covid-19 and Beyond: Emerging Trends in Global Tea Markets,” FAO, February 23, 2022.
Trees planted in between tea bushes provide shade and prevent too much direct sunlight which could damage the leaves.
increasingly uneven: fifteen years ago, the rainy season began slowly in March, increasing in July before reaching its peak in August. In 2022, flooding began in April and August was hit by record drought. With the harvesting calendar being completely turned upside down, it is becoming difficult to predict the harvest and produce quality tea. According to forecasts, almost the entire Assam region may no longer be suitable for growing tea by 2050.
Damage to tea leaves
It was the opposite story in China in 2022, which was hit by its worst drought in sixty years, with temperatures reaching almost 52°C in some regions. The Zhejiang province, where the renowned Long Jing is produced, was not spared and many tea plants used to create Dragon’s Well tea did not survive: ten months after the heatwave, Long Jing tea producers recorded a drop in yield by more than 20%.3 Extreme temperatures also affect the tea leaf quality: once the production process is complete, some dried leaves have reddened, others have burnt blotches. Damaged leaves are thinner and less resistant to the processing techniques required to make, say, black tea. Furthermore, the bitterness often associated with tea is partly due to the presence of polyphenols and alkaloids. The more the leaves contain, the more bitter the brew. However, the quantity of these compounds increase with rising temperatures and increased sunlight. In recent years, Chinese green tea has developed a new bitterness, affecting the taste when brewed.
3. Lou Kisiela, Antoine Morel and Yan Chen, “Thé chinois en péril, le changement climatique diminueles récoltes et change le goût,” France 24 , September 2023.
Flooding is also responsible for the decline in the quality of tea. Heavy rainfall certainly helps to obtain larger leaves which grow fast, however they contain lower concentrates of essential oils (a small leaf which grows steadily is more aromatic). This is why teas produced from leaves harvested during monsoon season are somewhat less complex in flavor. With consecutive extreme weather events becoming the norm, producers cannot just replant more tea bushes to make up for lost yield. Young Camellia sinensis do not tolerate stagnant water brought on by heavy downpours and cannot survive heatwaves (it takes around two years for the plant to develop roots deep enough to draw water). With the unpredictable nature of extreme weather events, tea producers and scientists are together trying to find ways to adapt to maintain yields and tea quality, while also limiting the impact on the livelihoods of those communities dependent on this economy.
Adaptation vital
Tea is one of the most important cash crops in the world, with global production estimated to be at more than 6.5 million tons in 2021.4 While China and India remain the two biggest producers, tea cultivation is proving to provide many jobs and foster rural development in many emerging countries. In these regions, tea is mainly grown in monocultures, which means producers are heavily dependent on the weather conditions and the income made from yields. According to a recent report from the British NGO Christian Aid, the area of optimal tea-growing conditions in Kenya will be reduced by more than a quarter by 2050. If no action is taken, this scenario would prove catastrophic for the country’s economy, as tea contributes to a quarter of export revenues. The tea industry generates more than three million jobs, providing a livelihood for almost one in ten Kenyans.5 The investment required for small-scale farmers to adapt to the changes observed in recent years and maintain their yield is currently not proving profitable. The repercussion on the price of tea would risk them losing their competitiveness on the global market. However, 60% of global tea production today comes from these small-scale producers.6
Initial research and solutions
Producers can limit the impact of the climate crisis on their yields by using more fertilizers to maintain soil fertility, or pesticides to ward off parasites. However, these options pose a health risk to farm workers and consumers, and cause soil degradation over the long term. Throughout the world, there
EMERGING TEA-PRODUCING COUNTRIES
With global temperatures rising, the regions suitable for tea production are changing, potentially opening up new production zones. Tea is now grown in Brittany and in the Pyrenees! To meet the growing demand, certain regions in Latin America which currently have a limited output, such as Columbia and Peru, could see a rise in interest and a development in tea growing. In the Yunnan province, the dry season is lasting longer and longer. Known as the birthplace of tea, this region could soon become less suitable for growing tea in a few years’ time.
4. FAO, International Tea Day, www.fao.org/ international-tea-day
5. Ibid
6. “Covid-19 and Beyond: Emerging Trends in Global Tea Markets,” FAO, February 23, 2022.
is an increase in scientific research in an attempt to maintain production and keep afloat the economies of many countries for whom tea exports is an essential income.
This scientific research covers several areas:
— Research carried out by biologists on tea plant varieties more resistant to global heating;
— Improving water efficiency and irrigation management to help growers deal with fluctuating rainfall and water scarcity in certain areas. In a similar vein, producers in the Chinese province of Zhejiang have invested in sensors that constantly measure soil moisture. When the ideal moisture level for a tea plant drops, an irrigation system is automatically triggered. Electric pumps and other drainage systems have been tested to prevent water from stagnating during flooding;
— Introducing sustainable farming practices such as agroforestry, to increase tea farms’ resilience to global heating while preserving ecosystems. For example, in Kenya, the British multinational tea firm James Finlay financed a program to help small-scale tea-producers plant more than three thousand trees known for helping the soil retain water. Programs are also being implemented to preserve the forest cover of the Mau forest, an important source of water in the Great Rift Valley, the main tea-producing region in Kenya. The multinational also proposes to equip factories with modern ovens, in order to reduce deforestation linked to charcoal production used to produce black tea;7
— Developing techniques to grow tea indoors: some tea-producing regions are experimenting with installing greenhouses or tunnel farming to protect tea plants during periods of drought. However, many of these measures come at a cost which many smallscale producers would struggle to absorb. In order to survive financially, some are turning to growing tea plants alongside other tree and crop species so as to diversify their income. The world is changing and tea cultivation must adapt. The geography and economy of tea will undoubtedly be disrupted within a few years. •
To learn more about the tea grown in Brittany, the Pyrenees, Columbia and Peru, listen to the podcast Un thé, un voyage, hosted by François-Xavier Delmas and Sidonie Bonnec in French.
7. “Kenya: le changement climatique à l’assaut du thé,” Jeune Afrique, 2021.
Climate change in tea-producing countries
At Palais des Thés, we are committed to bringing you the best tea possible, grown responsibly and in harmony with its local environment. As such, we cannot ignore the impact of the climate crisis on tea farms, tea producers and the tea itself.
As an ethical tea brand conscious of the responsibilities of our business activities, we are concerned about the impact of global heating on the lands of the producers with whom we have forged long-lasting relationships. It is important that we visit them regularly to truly comprehend the difficulties they are facing. In March 2024, we went to the Zheijiang
Impacts
In Kalapani, Nepal , successive droughts, late frosts and flooding have led to landslides and a drop in production. Tea leaf size and weight has reduced considerably.
province in China to discuss these issues with our producers. Our regular trips to Nepal also enable us to understand the effects and to support our producers as best as possible. We spoke to two different producers in China and Nepal, as well as a producer in the Pyrenees, to get their take on the impact of global heating on their tea farms.
In the state of Assam, torrential rainfalls in summer 2022 caused a population fluctuation of insects and significant damage to the tea plants’ roots, impacting crop yields.
“There wasn’t much rain this winter compared to last year, and we had to deal with long periods of very cold weather which isn’t ideal for the tea plant.”
Prakash Raya, Nepal, tea producer at Kalapani tea estate, one of our partners for several years.
In the province of Zheijiang where Long Jing tea is produced, temperatures reached as high as 40°C in Hangzhou in 2022, leading to a 60% decrease in yield of autumnal flush teas.
“The late frosts and heatwaves causes the concentration of amino acids present in the leaves to decrease. When brewed, there is a lower quality flavor profile.”
Professor Liang, China, producer of the Long Jing tea available in our stores.
Solutions
Diversify the type of tea plant grown
This would help to regulate the impact of climate risk on yield, as some varieties are more resistant than others to drought, flooding or insect damage.
“By diversifying the varieties, tea plants are less vulnerable to insect pests or disease. You need skill and experience at harvest time to adapt to the diversity in the different young shoots.” Lucas Ben-Moura, who has been producing teas in the Pyrenees since 2018. His first tea leaves were harvested in 2023.
Implement sustainable farming practices such as agroforestry
Grow under cover
In certain tea regions, producers install greenhouses or “tunnels” to protect their tea plants from too much direct sunlight.
Planting trees in among tea plants helps foster resilience and preserve ecosystems. Some trees are also known for their ability to retain water in the soil.
“On our farm, we have fitted solar panels above our tea plants to reduce the effects of extreme weather events. This green energy is then used to process our teas.” Professor Liang, China
Tea growing is relatively new in Malawi and made possible thanks to the optimal growing conditions.
A journey across the routes of tea, cha and te
Tea has traveled far and wide. While it crossed the sea to reach Europe in the 17th century, it did not wait to be discovered by the western world before spreading far and wide across Pan-Asian trade routes. Embark on a journey through time along the tea roads!
By Elena Di Benedetto
The story behind tea takes us on a horseback ride, one which also covers the Silk Route, colonial trading companies, merchant ships and industrial espionage. All the adventures of the second most consumed beverage in the world (after water) can be found in the two words used to refer to it: cha – which is used in East and South-East Asia, and tea or te, used in Europe.
Cha if by land…
The word cha is used to refer to tea in many Asian languages, including Chinese (茶, chá ), Japanese (茶, cha) and Korean (차, cha). In its uses, the word is derived from the ideogram 荼 (tu) which referred to all bitter plants including tea. It was during the Tang dynasty (618-907) that the character 茶 came to refer only to tea, pronounced [tcha] in Mandarin and Cantonese. This was not surprising given that tea began to spread from China, its homeland. Or more precisely, from the Golden Triangle, an area that in actual fact includes Xishuangbanna in the south of Yunnan, but also part of Laos, Vietnam and Myanmar. From this dazzling epicenter of cultural diversity and varying landscapes, a plant, then a term, spread by land via routes covered by foot or on horseback. And so, tea spread throughout China, gradually taking root in Fujian, Anhui, Zhejiang, Hunan and Hubei. As early as the Tang dynasty, tea growers ventured outside China, particularly in Japan and in Korea, which gradually began developing their own tea culture. Tea then spread more widely across South-East Asia during the Song dynasty (960-1279), especially across the ancient Tea Horse Road which linked China to Tibet via the Yunnan and Sichuan provinces. These mule tracks enabled merchants to exchange tea for horses in Tibet, as well as medicinal herbs, salt and spices. However, the journey was not without danger and could last up to five months long, traversing mountain passes three thousand meters high, crossing swirling rivers and many bridges spanning several thousand meters long. Once they had arrived in Tibet, tea was traded for a few horses, for the Chinese had a need for war horses and the Tibetan breeds were renowned for being sturdy. The Tibetans would then mix the tea with dri butter (made from yak’s milk) and salt before drinking. Tea’s journey does not stop there, venturing further before gradually reaching the Urals. It is hard to determine exactly when Russia had its first taste of tea, but by 1567 when servants of the Russian Tsar Ivan the Terrible recorded the first mention of tea in the Russian language, tea compressed into bricks was already commonly consumed among the peoples living on the Urals. During the 17 th century, tea became a subject of discussion and trade among the rich and powerful: the Mongols gifted it to the tsar, then at the end of the century, the Russians, perceiving growing interest in the drink, sent its first caravan to China to open up direct tea trade.
…and te if by sea
The word te comes from the same ideogram as cha but it is pronounced [tay] in the Minnan dialect used in South-East China, near Xiamen in the Fujian province. As early tea trade with the western world mainly took place in ports of this region, the recipients adopted derivatives of te to refer to their future favorite drink. However, there is one anomaly: the Portuguese word for tea is none other than cha, because from the 16th century, their initial
TRAVELING TEA
It was on horseback that the first fermented teas were inadvertently created. Due to the risky nature and constraints of such journeys, tea was compressed making it more compact and less bulky for the long journey. The horse’s body heat and large temperature variations during the day- or week-long journey furthered the fermentation process. This caused its character to change, developing its distinctive woody, leather and earthy notes for which it is typically known today. Named after the town where one of these tea roads start, Pu Erh tea was born!
interactions with tea were of insular origin in the port of Macao, where Cantonese was spoken. Maintained as an exotic curiosity, tea did not spread across Europe from Portugal.
Colonial trading companies from the West – especially from the Netherlands and England – were then responsible for bringing back and introducing tea throughout their countries in the 17 th century. The first tea
arrived in Europe in 1610 via the VOC (Dutch East India Company), followed by the British-based EIC (East India Company) whose first order of tea was for the King of England and his court. With tea quickly gaining recognition among the British, demand continued to rise, increasing maritime crossings between the Far East and Europe. By 1720, tea was the EIC’s biggest import in terms of sales, ahead of silks, porcelain and spices of all kinds.
But when China tightened its trading conditions in the 19th century, England lost its main source of tea – provoking the First Opium War (18391842). Keen to diversify their suppliers following this setback, the English cunningly turned to their previously colonized lands, in particularly India and Sri Lanka. While India had already been linked to China via Burma during the 18th century by the so-called “tea and cotton route,” it was not until 1848 that tea truly became introduced and grown in India. The English botanist Robert Fortune (see p. 30-31 in Bruits de Palais n° 88) stole tea plants and tea-growing expertise from the Chinese who guarded them jealously, enabling India to become a major tea-growing region, going on to become one of the world’s largest producers. Industrial espionage had paid off.
THE DUAL INFLUENCE BEHIND TEA IN NORTH AFRICA
Local dialects in North Africa use various words derived from the Chinese cha or the English tea (itself derived from te in Fujian): shāy in literary Arabic, chaï in Algeria but tay in Tunisia and atay in Morocco. This is because tea arrived in this region in two stages: first by land during the Tang dynasty, then by sea in 1854 after the Crimean War.
Ultimately, it was by moving the decision-making bodies of the tea world towards Europe (England being the largest importer of tea at the time, and therefore in the strongest position to influence its global development) that the word te and its derivatives took root all over the world, as far as Africa to Latin America. Colonization ends up spreading te all over the globe.
And today?
In the 21 st century, te and cha intertwine, even merge, on the ever more globalized tea routes. Tea is served the English way in Hong Kong and China, while Indian chai has become one of the most popular blends around the world, often available in lattes in cosmopolitan cities. And while most of the tea sold in Europe still comes from Asia (with China the biggest exporters), other tea regions are developing, reshuffling the cards and changing how tea travels around the world. These regions include African countries, like Kenya, which mainly supply the American iced tea industry.
Emerging tea countries are also making a name for themselves, not for the quantity of tea they produce, but for the quality of their production, like Georgia, Malawi, Colombia and Peru. While the latter are not disrupting the tea routes as we know them, they have brought out others which are more niche and often experimental, but which open up more horizons for the tea of tomorrow. •
Tasting Zhang Ping Shui Xian
Today I am going to take you on a journey to south-west Fujian, the region which produces some of China’s most wonderful teas. It is here in Zhang Ping in the prefecture of Longyan, that the only compressed oolong tea is made, Zhang Ping Shui Xian, or Zhang Ping “water sprite.”
Thomas Boularouah became a Master Tea Sommelier in 2021 and is the manager of the Rue Ordener store in Paris. He is passionate about tea, particularly ceramic teaware which enhances the tea drinking experience. He developed an appreciation and emotional affection for the latter ever since studying applied arts with a specialization in ceramics.
I usually approach tea tasting like a conversation. It is a rather intimate moment between the leaves and myself, during which we get to know one another. What I find fascinating is that every tea has its own story, and like an investigator, I try to understand who that tea is. I try to decipher all the work that went into making it, the artisan producer’s unique expertise which manages to speak to me through the emotions provoked by this imaginary conversation. This tea is no exception, so come discover it alongside me.
An
endlessly sweet oolong tea
The Zhang Ping Shui Xian’s most distinctive feature is that it comes compressed in small square cakes. Weighing ten grams, the tea is hand-pressed using wooden molds called “mumo,” which have been used ever since this tea was first produced back in the 20th century. Its other striking feature is the variety of tea plant from which it is produced. The Shui Xian cultivar is emblematic to Fujian. And this cultivar is behind the renowned yancha oolongs teas,
By Thomas Boularouah
the rock teas produced in the Wuyi Mountains, a little further north. However, in this instance, the oxidation process is less intensive than for the yancha, and it is not roasted at the end of the process. This tea is processed in a way to produce a soft and sweet mouthfeel, living up to its cute name, Shui Xian, which means “water sprite.” Its leaves reveal a wonderful palette of colors, from light green to dark brown [1]. They are lightly oxidized and have been very carefully plucked: beautiful silvery buds are visible, nestled cozily in among this loosely-compressed brick. I cannot wait to place this delicate little
1. The wonderfully colored leaves.
“cushion” into a gaiwan and begin our discussion.
Gong fu cha: the ideal brewing method
So as to learn more about my drinking companion, I perform successive infusions in a gaiwan, each lasting fifteen to twenty seconds long [2] . I suggest using porcelain teaware rather than unglazed earthenware. For the latter would take part in the conversation, toning down the top notes, whereas porcelain will unveil the entire aromatic palette. When leaves have undergone compression, they must be given time to express themselves fully. What first strikes me is its soft mouthfeel. Its oily texture and sweet flavor are delicious. The floral, vanilla notes are smooth and elegant, combined with nutty nuances. The textures evolve with each infusion, feeling much more powdery, before a minerality and verdant freshness suddenly appear. As our tête-à-tête wears on, I discover another fresh burst, this time with notes of yellow fruits, alongside that ever-present
minerality which lingers in the mouth. What a fascinating discussion! This tea is generous and incredibly elegant. The perfect blend of sweetness and character. Take the time to get to know one another and, infusion after infusion, it will reveal itself in all its character.
Tea and cheese
I have a particular penchant for pairing tea with cheese [3] . To accompany this Grand Cru tea, I have chosen a young tomme de Savoie, which is milder than an aged version. Deliciously fruity and floral, this uncooked pressed cheese will go perfectly with the Zhang Ping “water sprite.” From the Fujian mountain range to the Savoyard mountain pastures, there is a fine line between the two! •
Zhang Ping Shui Xian
Cultivar Shui Xian
Origine Zhang Ping (Fujian region)
Bre Wing guiDe
→ Gong fu cha (in a gaiwan), multiple successive infusions
FOOD PairingS Tomme de Savoie cheese
3. A fruity and floral young Tomme de Savoie cheese makes for a tasty pairing.
2. Successive infusions in a gaiwan encourages the leaves to fully release their flavor.
Matcha waffles with matcha whipped cream
Matcha is the perfect ingredient for revisiting sweet classics. Its emerald green color, umami taste and lightly verdant grassy notes all add a touch of originality and vibrancy to any dessert!
Serves four
For the whipped cream
300 ml heavy cream
30 g icing sugar
5 g matcha (1 tsp)
For the waffles
200 g flour
8 g active dry yeast (11/2 tsp)
A pinch of salt
3 eggs
1 pot of natural yogurt
60 g unsalted butter (melted)
15 g matcha (3 tsp)
5 tbsp water
For the whipped cream
1. Put the cream in the freezer for thirty minutes.
2. Sift the icing sugar and matcha together into a bowl.
3. Whip the cold cream until firm peaks form. Gradually incorporate the icing sugar and matcha mixture, whipping continuously.
For the waffles
1. Mix together the flour, yeast and salt.
2. Add the eggs, yogurt and melted butter.
3. Sift the matcha to remove any lumps.
4. Dilute the matcha in the water to get the consistency of pancake batter.
5. Add the matcha mixture to the other ingredients. Leave to rest in the fridge for thirty minutes.
6. Pour the batter into your waffle maker and cook according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
7. Once cooked, top with the matcha whipped cream and decorate with seasonal berries.
Serving suggestion
Whip up some plain whipped cream lightly sweetened with sugar and serve swirled together with the matcha whipped cream.
Wabi-sabi
Wabi-sabi celebrates the beauty and simplicity in the imperfect, impermanent and incomplete. Deeply-rooted in Japanese aesthetics, this philosophy has influenced the tea world since the 16th century.
By Evelyne Eybert and Elena Di Benedetto
While Japanese concepts like Zen have become popular in the West, they are not always so easy to grasp in all their subtleties. The same applies to wabi-sabi.
Two words, one concept
Originally, wabi and sabi are two distinct terms borrowed from Chinese poetry. In their oldest meaning, wabi means “to apologize deeply, humbly,” and sabi means “to be grieved.” Over the centuries, in the Japanese language wabi has taken on poetic connotations of solitude, austerity and sadness, while sabi has gradually evolved to evoke the pleasure of contemplating worn, incomplete, imperfect things. Sabi also has a second etymology, as it also means “rustic” or “patina.” A direct reminder of the marks of time. Combined together, the two words convey the pleasure we get from austere objects; a contradiction inherited from Zen traditions from which the roots of wabi-sabi can particularly be found.
Arts and crafts encapsulating wabi-sabi often adopt organic forms with traces of rusticity. Inspired by nature, artists and artisans favor raw materials to express ever-evolving
natural beauty. The concept of wabi-sabi continues to flourish in many artistic fields, both traditional and contemporary, such as architecture, ceramics, calligraphy, flower arrangement (ikebana), interior design, and, of course, tea.
The art of imperfection
Wabi-sabi is based on several principles. It celebrates the beauty in imperfection: cracks in ceramics, defects in wood or wrinkles on a face, these are all considered as adding depth and beauty to an object or person. Signs of wear and tear are not seen as flaws, but as elements that impart value. Wabi-sabi also advocates simplicity and restraint, favoring modest and discreet elements over unnecessary embellishment. It also emphasizes the fleeting nature of life (ukiyo), promoting an appreciation for living in the present moment and all stages in life. This philosophy may summon a sort of melancholy, which is inherently linked to the concept.
Wabi-sabi and tea
Wabi-sabi is perhaps most popularly associated with the tea ceremony, which was ritualized
“Wabi-sabi is a beauty of things imperfect, impermanent and incomplete. It is a beauty of things modest and humble. It is a beauty of things unconventional.”
Leonard Koren, architect and aesthetics expert
by the tea master Sen No Rikyu (1522-1591) who promoted simplicity, restraint and the appreciation of imperfection in his way of tea. By creating the tea ceremony style called wabi-cha , he advocated a sort of austere approach specific to wabi-sabi: this entailed a small tea room in a modest-sized house, with a low entrance requiring guests to stoop as they enter, filled with celadon tea cups made by local craftsmen. Wabi-sabi is by nature contradictory and enigmatic. For some creators it is even undefinable, which enables it to perpetuate through the ages by adapting with the times. So why not embrace this concept during your next tea tasting, focus on the essential and embrace the unexpected humbly and in all its beauty. •
THE ART OF KINTSUGI, OR HOW TO FIND BEAUTY IN IMPERFECTION
1. A special glue called mugi-urushi is used to join together the different pieces of broken ceramics.
2. It can take up to several days for the glue to dry.
4. Layers of red lacquer (eurushi ) and black lacquer (kuroroiro) are applied one after the other until no imperfections remain.
3. The sabi-urushi stage is essential. This involves applying a thin layer of lacquer mixed with whetstone powder to fill in the tiniest cracks.
SEN NO RIKYU: TEA MASTER AND FOUNDER
5. To finish, powdered gold is applied with a cotton ball to the freshly applied lacquer.
Sen No Rikyu was a famous tea master who spent his whole life serving rich and powerful rulers. One of which was Hideyoshi, who was in open conflict with him: he was arrogant and attached to material possessions, whereas Rikyu believed in austerity and simplicity. For example, in order to impress a guest Hideyoshi had his tea room covered entirely in gold, while Rikyu advocated an opposite approach, rejecting all ostentatious artifice. “Let it be understood that the tea ceremony consists in boiling water, preparing tea and drinking it, and nothing more.” Two irreconcilable points of view which bring the story to a tragic end, as the ruler ordered the tea master to die by hara-kiri
Genmaicha Yama: tea with toasted rice
Genmaicha Yama is a Japanese green tea mixing bancha (or sencha) tea leaves with toasted rice, making for a bright and harmonious encounter between the tea’s fresh, verdant notes with the caramelly, toasted tones from the rice. This tea is very popular in Japan, where it is drunk both hot and chilled, and pairs beautifully with an array of foods. Quite simply, it is a deliciously fresh, fragrant and crisp tasting experience.
The “poor man’s tea”
The origins of genmaicha (literally translated as “brown rice tea”) can be found in 15 th century Japan, in the Izu peninsular. Legend has it that a samurai’s servant named Genmai accidentally dropped some grains of rice into the tea he was preparing for his master. In a fit of rage, the samurai cut off his head. Once his anger subsided, he still took the trouble to drink his tea and –much to his surprise – enjoy it. He named the tea in homage to his sacrificed servant: genmaicha, or “the tea of Genmai.”
More realistically, this rice tea’s origin is directly linked to the high price of tea leaves, which at the time were considered as a luxury. Common Japanese folk would add grains of rice to green tea to get a nourishing liquor at half the price. And so came to be the name “poor man’s tea.” These days, this tea is incredibly popular in Japan, where it is often served alongside a meal, and has won over tea lovers all across the world with its sweet, full-bodied flavor.
The comforting sweetness of green tea
To make genmaicha, leaves are plucked from the lower branches of the tea plant as
GENMAICHA: ONE AND ALL THE SAME?
There are several grades of genmaicha, graded depending on the type of tea used. The finest are made using sencha whose leaves have been harvested during the first flush of the season, or ichibancha, which are considered the most sought after. Another option is matcha genmaicha, which is combined with matcha powder for a lively, invigorating taste.
per an autumnal harvest. The leaves are then steamed before being flattened gently, the same way bancha tea is produced. The leaves are then mixed with grains of toasted or puffed brown rice. The quality of the rice is just as important as that of the tea leaves, in order to get the perfect balance.
Sweet and full-bodied, this tea is a mix of verdant, seaweed flavors from the green tea with the comforting notes of toasted cereal, conjuring up the aromas of breakfast time. The sweet, umami flavors intermingle
Tea is harvested by machine on most tea estates in Japan, hence the uniformity in the size of the tea plants.
with the scent of toasted hazelnuts, evoking a spring morning where you wake up to the smell of fresh grass and warm bread. It is the perfection introduction to Japanese tea.
The perfect partner for food
Often served alongside a meal in Japan, genmaicha is known for elevating the fresh, salty sea notes found in sushi and other fish-based dishes. Thanks to its unusual grassy, toasted aromas, this green tea can be used
in many inspiring ways, in cakes, cocktails or even savory dishes. For example, cooking soba noodles in a pan of steeped genmaicha, then stir-frying with vegetables adds an unusual twist to a classic dish. The nutty, toasted tones from the buckwheat noodles combines tone on tone with the malty flavors from the puffed rice. It also pairs perfectly with white chocolate. As green tea tends to “cleanse” the taste buds, it cuts through the chocolate’s slightly heady sweetness. And for a different genmaicha
tasting experience, why not enjoy the tea’s nutty aromas as a cold infusion during the summer months. Simply brew twenty grams of genmaicha in one liter of tepid water for thirty minutes, add a few ice cubes and serve in a cool cocktail glass for a stylishly refreshing drink! •
Flash the QR code to discover the recipe for Genmaicha Yama soba noodles
Celebrate summer with tea!
Our seasonal tea accessories are in full bloom! The perfect luggage essentials, transport your tea in a colorful washi canister, and pack a small teacup and teapot so you can enjoy a cold infusion wherever you are this summer.
1. Ajisai teapot (45 cl)
Ref. M270 – € 55
2. Ajisai teacup (12 cl)
Ref. N270 – € 16
3. Haru stoneware teacup – crafted by Mr. Tomatu (22 cl)
Ref. N328 – € 20
4. Ibusuki stoneware teacup – crafted by Mr. Hayashi (22 cl)
Ref. N330 – € 15
5. Hanami stoneware teacup – crafted by Mr. Ando (19 cl)
Ref. N332 – € 22
6. Mizumi stoneware teacup – crafted by Mr. Sahashi (19 cl)
Ref. N331 – € 15
7. Smoked Guava
This smoky tea comes from the esteemed Satemwa tea estate in southern Malawi. The tea is smoked over guava leaf, a unique approach specific to this estate, giving it its distinct woody nuances.
Ref. D257AM – € 16 per 100 g
8. Yamabuki Nadeshiko
This Japanese fermented tea is made using a rather particular technique: the tea leaves are processed like a green tea, then left to ferment with black koji mold for a week, resulting in a unique Grand Cru tea with licorice notes.
Ref. D3103AM – € 32 per 100 g
9. Organic Genmaicha Yama
This thirst-quenching tea can be served hot or as an iced tea, pairing perfectly with any fish dish. Ref. D3005AM – € 12 per 100 g
Washi tea canisters Spring-summer collection
€ 14 tea canister storing 100 g
€ 17 tea canister storing 150 g
10. Uzu nami Ref. V2064B/V2064C
11. Shippou Ref. V2066B/V2066C
12. A Walk Through Kyoto Ref. V2065B/V2065C
13. Fujisan Ref. V2067B/V2067C
14. Plum Trees in Bloom Ref. V2063B/V2063C
Iced tea collection
Berlingot XL iced tea pouches
€6.90 per berlingot
1. Strawberry Granita Ref. DTG8180
2. Tropicolada Ref. DTG8430
3. Exotic Party Ref. DTG814
4. Icy Peach Ref. DTG8370
8. Iced Creations miniature box set Ref. DBM20 - € 27.90
Loose leaf tea
€13 per 100 g
5. Tropicolada Ref. D8430AM
6. Strawberry Granita Ref. D8410BAM
7. Icy Peach Ref. D8370AM
9. Le Temps Retrouvé Ref. DTG7080
10. Genmaicha Yama
L’Atelier du
Vrac
On March 28, Palais des Thés opened L’Atelier du Vrac on Rue des Pyrénées in Paris’ 20 th arrondissement. This is our very first store dedicated entirely to loose leaf teas and herbal teas, marking the company’s commitment towards promoting more sustainable and mindful consumer behavior. Customers can fill up their own containers, take part in practical workshops on how to brew the perfect cup of loose leaf tea, and simply buy what they need – whatever the quantity! The store offers lots of new, different ways to enjoy our teas – with not a teabag or packaged box in sight!
Discover the best of tea with our practical workshop
What is so special about this new store is its workshop space designed to promote exchange and conversation between the tea sommelier and customers. The aim? To learn how to make the perfect cup of tea using loose leaf tea. We have the answers to all your burning questions, like how much tea leaves? What water temperature? How do you make iced tea or chai latte? What is the best tea for sharing with friends? All your questions will be answered! Apart from practical tips, there will be various in-store events and demonstrations. For example, you can take part in a gong fu cha preparation ceremony, in which the leaves are steeped multiple times, or enjoy a tea and food pairing tasting session, learn how to make matcha, or how to use a traditional Japanese kyusu teapot with its signature side handle. This workshop space is yours. It was designed to foster exchange and discovery through tasting different teas, to answer all the questions we get asked so very often, and to broaden your knowledge. More L’Atelier du Vrac stores will open their doors in France soon. In the meantime, go and check out the first store and come share a cup of tea with us!
Conscious consumption
L’Atelier du Vrac is an opportunity to (re)discover our wide-ranging selection of teas, from herbal teas and flavored infusions, to single-estate teas and our Grands Crus sourced directly by our very own tea explorers. There are more than 180 references available to buy by weight. Choosing loose leaf tea shows your respect for the knowledge and expertise that went into producing it – from the harvesting of the leaves to the manufacturing process. You are choosing taste, as the leaves have room to expand and release their flavor freely. And above all, it is about adopting a more responsible, environmentally friendly way to enjoy tea, by reducing packaging waste, purchasing only what you need, and reusing your containers to be filled up in store.
New loose leaf tea pouches
There is change in the air… Over the next few months, keep your eyes peeled for our brand new loose leaf tea pouch design! We have reduced the amount of plastic in our packaging in an effort to reduce our impact on the planet. Made using 60% less plastics, our new pouches guarantee long-lasting freshness and flavor. They are also recyclable, making it easier to adopt more sustainable consumer behavior.
Bruits de Palais is a Palais des Thés
publication
Editorial team
Lucile Block de Friberg, Bénédicte
Bortoli, Chloé Douzal, Mathias Minet
Translation and proofreading
Kate Maidens
Art direction and layout
Prototype.paris
Styling
Sarah Vasseghi
Illustrations
Stéphane Humbert-Basset
Imaging & retouching
services
Key Graphic
Printing Printed in May 2024 by Groupe Prenant (France)
Palais des Thés
All translation, adaptation and reproduction rights in any form are reserved for all countries.
Photo credits
François-Xavier Delmas: front cover, 4, 15, 20-21, 32-33, 38, 39 •
Guillaume Czerw: 2, 26, 27, 29, 34-35, 36, 37, 38 • Léo Dugué-Perrin: 6, 8, 10, 12 • Kenyon Manchego: 28, 32.
Customer service
+33 (0)1 43 56 90 90
Cost of a local call (in France) Monday to Saturday 9am-6pm
Corporate gifts
+33 (0)1 73 72 51 47
Cost of a local call (in France) Monday to Friday 9am-6pm
KAZUKÔ OKAKURA