bruits de palais “One is never entirely finished learning.” André Gide
79
September 2019 | n°
Tea School Special Edition
Editorial
Nurturing curiosity Curiosity is like a muscle: the more you use it, the more it develops and grows stronger. The world of tea is an inexhaustible well of knowledge that offers more than enough to satisfy it. We experience this every day through contact with different planters, producers, cultures and traditions, from which we have already learned and will never stop learning. After all, there is no single path that leads to understanding. We have taken one such path, patiently developing and continually enhancing our expertise on tea. We cannot help but be humbled by the infinite store of knowledge to be attained and want to share it. Thanks to the path we have walked, we are now in a position to pass along our knowledge. You can only share what you know: that is what we believe and it is what we strive to teach at the Tea School.
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The Palais des ThĂŠs team
Contents
Page 4 TEA SCHOOL SPECIAL EDITION Page 16 N EWS
Page 12 GR AN DS CRUS SELECTION September 2019
RESPONSIBLE TOGETHER
This magazine is printed on recycled paper grown entirely in FSC-certified forests. Certified chlorine-free processing. Once it has been read, reread and shared with your neighbour, it can be recycled. Please remember to put it in the right bin!
Page 18 BR ING TEA TO THE TABLE ! Cocktail creations with La Réserve Paris
B R U I T S D E PA L A I S Photo credits: Palais des Thés photo library: François-Xavier Delmas. Except: Ferrandi Paris p. 9; Julie Limont p. 3, p. 18; Frédéric Lucano p. 1, p. 2, p. 3, p. 6, p. 7, p. 8, p. 9, p. 10, p. 11; Kenyon Manchego p. 3, p. 12 to 15, p. 16, p. 17, p. 19; Riviera & Bar p. 17; illustration Lauriane Tiberghien p. 6. Design and production: Mazarine Image Design.
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Tea School Special Edition
Event: the Tea School turns tuıenty Since it was first founded in Paris in 1999, the Tea School has trained more than 15,000 people and expanded internationally. This 20th anniversary is an opportunity to refocus on its mission and look back at its development over the years. A FLAGSHIP MIS SION Since it was created by François-Xavier Delmas and Mathias Minet, the Tea School has reflected the original vocation of Palais des Thés itself, namely sharing the best of tea and the company’s passion for this age-old beverage with as many people as possible. In 30 years, through contact with farmers, planters and tea pluckers from around the world, Palais des Thés has patiently harvested a store of precious knowledge about tea. It is a very natural pleasure to share this invaluable heritage with our customers, and more generally with everyone who loves tea. We pass on our knowledge through classes that combine theory with tastings, giving everyone a chance to explore this gourmet beverage from both a sensory and flavour perspective.
LEAR NING TO TASTE While tasting may seem to be within easy reach for anyone, it is actually based on a precise mechanism—perhaps you have already had a similar experience with wine. Tasting
We first had the idea for the Tea School in 1999. Our shops were starting to get very popular, so we had less time to spend at the counter with each of our customers, and we thought a Tea School would be the perfect place to share what we had learned. After all, knowledge sharing has always been central to the mission of Palais des Thés. We developed an original teaching method, based on the experience of tasting and a sensory analysis of tea. François-Xavier Delmas and Mathias Minet
tea is a learned skill, not an innate one, and the more you master the art of tasting tea, the more you can appreciate
understand what they are tasting and feeling, and then
its diversity and the riches it offers.
build a vocabulary to talk about it. Indeed, by teaching the art of tasting, the Tea School transcends its initial
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Classes are offered in an intimate, small-group setting
mission of sharing the best of tea to help its students fully
that facilitates discussion and progress. Students taste and
appreciate other foods and drinks. It provides a universal
then share their impressions. Little by little, they learn to
foundation for foodies and epicures of all stripes.
Nepal, tea plantations in Employee visit to 2019 Tea School, May organised by the
Looking back Over the past 20 years, the Tea School has developed alongside Palais des Thés and successfully reached an increasingly diverse audience. In parallel, the role of the School on the gourmet scene has expanded considerably.
A W IDER AU DIENCE
Tasting room at the Tea School in Moscow
Initially, the Tea School was designed mainly for individuals. Since then, its scope has expanded to include a professional audience. Today, the School trains restaurant owners, chefs and Palais des Thés partners as well as the company’s own employees who, as its first ambassadors, are required
THE ROLE OF FOOD
to take a complete course. To round out their education,
The Tea School owes its continued growth to its ability
the Tea School organises a trip to the tea plantations
to evolve, adopting new approaches and trends by
for employees once a year. The School’s international
incorporating them into its curriculum. One major
expansion serves the same ambition: distributing
development was expanding into the food scene by
knowledge as widely as possible, even beyond borders.
creating classes on tea and food pairings, and on cooking
That’s why the Tea School has opened locations not only
with tea starting in 2001. While it may have seemed
outside the Paris region (in Rennes), but also further afield
progressive a few years ago, the concept has firmly taken
in New York, Moscow and soon Brussels (early 2020).
root since then.
The Tea School: dates and key figures
1999
2016
48,000
15,000
140
Tea School founded
Tea Sommelier diploma created
hours of training provided to individuals since 1999
people trained at the Tea School since its founding
classes taught each year
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Tea School Special Edition
Tasting: learning uıith all the senses Because the world’s best teas deserve a proper tasting, the Tea School’s role is to provide the right tools to anyone interested in taking full advantage of the experience. Tasting tea with all five senses is a basic structural tenet of the School’s classes, which guide students to rediscover the art of sensory perception. TASTE Perceived by the tongue and its taste buds, taste tells us when something is sweet, salty, sour, bitter or umami*. All of these tastes occur in tea except for salty, which is not naturally found in tea leaves. * Umami (“savoury taste” in Japanese) is relatively unknown in the West because it is uncommon in Western diets. It is widely used in Chinese and Japanese cuisine, however. This lingering, persistent taste can be found in certain fatty fishes (mackerel and sardines), soy sauces, cheese and meat, for example.
SMELL Taste combines with smell, the other sense that is probably the most intimately involved in tasting, to reveal the full aromatic complexity of the tea. Often, our first contact with a tea is when we breathe in its scent, which allows us to perceive only 10% of the scent molecules. During retronasal olfaction (breathing out through the nose, including the air in the mouth), however, 100% of these molecules are smelled. As a result, our sense of smell allows us to perceive most of what we “taste”.
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Illustration of retronasal olfaction, taken from the book Tea Sommelier: tea in 160 illustrated lessons.
Yann and Manuela, Tea Sommeliers
TOUCH Touch is responsible for perceiving textures in the mouth. The polyphenols present in tea create the effects of different textures, such as astringency or mellowness. This sense also perceives temperatures (hot and cold): the right
Tea Sommeliers
temperature plays an essential role in tasting tea. If it’s too hot, the mouth
At the Tea School, Tea Sommeliers provide students with expert guidance.
contracts to reduce discomfort and all attention is focused on that sensation, effectively muting the other senses.
HEARING The sense of hearing can provide
Created and implemented by Palais des Thés in 2016, the Tea Sommelier diploma recognises the expertise of our employees. While working at Palais des Thés is a prerequisite to taking the exam, there is no guarantee of passing it: only 50% of students succeed the first time, although all of them take a comprehensive practical and theoretical course. The diploma is a true mark of excellence and a requirement for teaching at the Tea School. Since it was created, 20 employees have earned the title of Tea Sommelier. Most of them work in shops helping customers or at the Tea School as teachers.
information that influences perception. For example, you might hear a neighbour express a sensation and then try to perceive it yourself. This is why silence is essential while tasting. It allows everyone to immerse themselves fully in the moment and concentrate on SIGHT
their own sensations.
During a tasting, the first sense to be activated is sight, because it is involved when choosing a tea. It allows you to see what you will be tasting, observe the appearance of the leaves (dry and wet) and the brew, and begin to imagine tastes or flavours. It’s important to learn to avoid common pitfalls, since sight can sometimes feed into preconceived notions and influence or even trick our perceptions. That’s why some tastings are done blind, that is, without knowing in advance which teas are being tasted.
Teas prepared for tasting at the Tea School
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Tea School Special Edition
A school for everyone From novices to professionals, enthusiasts to the simply curious, the Tea School welcomes people from all backgrounds with a broad selection of classes ranging from pure fun to the truly technical. No prerequisites are required except the desire to explore the world of tea and, by extension, the culinary world in general. Introduction to tea: growing, preparing and tasting* Familiarise yourself with the world of tea through a series of classes, experiences and workshops devoted to its history, methods of production and tasting techniques.
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N OV I
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Introduction to tea: producing countries
TS
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Explore the prestigious harvests that connoisseurs await with bated breath by tasting rare, limited-edition, incomparably fresh teas.
EXP
ER
Explore tea through the lens of the primary tea-producing countries: China, Japan, Nepal, Taiwan and India.
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Tea lovers |
Tea cuisine*
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Early harvests
Invite tea into the kitchen with classes on pairings, mixology workshop, and classes on cooking with tea led by a Chef and a Tea Sommelier.
Colours of tea: manufacturing processes and flavour nuances Learn to taste green tea, black tea, Oolong, Pu Erh, Grands Crus and flavoured blends.
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Tasting talks
Tea rituals: hands-on workshops
Discover the Cha No Yu (Matcha tea ceremony) under the expert guidance of a Japanese tea master, or the history of tea through art with a lecturer.
Learn to prepare teas according to different customs and rituals. Discover Gong Fu Cha, steep Japanese green teas in a Kyusu, and try your hand at preparing Matcha.
Intrigued by the idea of a class on flavoured blends, Grands Crus or mixology? Browse the entire Tea School catalogue in French at www.ecoleduthe.com (“Les Cours” section). * Some classes also available in English.
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It uıas a uıonderful experience for a novice like me, very informative and uıith lots to discover in the tastings.” Alireza M. – participant in the Flavoured Blends class in April 2019.
Tea Sommelier Oxana teaching a class at the Tea School
W HO IS THE TEA SCHO OL FOR ? The Tea School is open to people of all backgrounds: amateurs and professionals, adults and children. The programme is constantly evolving, adding new classes each year to address the interests of different tea enthusiasts. Starting this autumn, for example, you can stone grind your own Matcha in a class developed at the request of Japanese tea connoisseurs. A class on mixology has also been offered to teach students how to create tea-based
FERRANDI Paris School
cocktails and provide another option for those who enjoyed the workshops on cooking with tea. Other classes
FERRANDI Paris School of Culinary Arts, for example,
familiarise students with the world of tea, deepen their
Tea Sommeliers guided vocational students and their
knowledge through themed weekend seminars led by a
professors through the basics of tea, moving on to cooking
Tea Sommelier, and improve their expertise through
with tea, creating cocktail recipes, and pairing tea with food.
specialised tastings, or simply help children explore **
new flavours with low-caffeine iced herbal teas. The Tea
Finally, everyone at Palais des Thés benefits from the
School can also host special events by request.
training provided by the School, whether or not they work in a shop or come into contact with customers.
While the Tea School offers classes suitable for amateurs,
Every employee must take a required course of five
it is also a gold standard for professionals in the culinary
extremely comprehensive modules. The School’s high
industry, who take customised courses either at the School
standards help them build their expertise and contribute
or within their own establishment. At the prestigious
to knowledge sharing.
A typical class Lessons for tea amateurs are kept small, with an average of 6 to 12 participants, which promotes discussion and learning, and fosters a friendly, relaxed atmosphere. They last from 1.5 to 3 hours depending on the topic. After a brief theoretical introduction, students taste an average of five teas. Participants take the time to explore and evaluate the selected teas individually and note their own impressions and sensations before sharing them with the rest of the group. At the end of the class, each student goes home with tea samples, the course materials, and the Bruits de Palais magazine. ** Classes for children available by request.
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Tea School Special Edition
?
Which class is right
for me
Ready to take a class at the Tea School but can’t decide where to start? We designed this quiz to help you choose the perfect class based on your personality and interests!
1. YOU HAVE A FREE EVENING ON THE CALENDAR. WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS? A quiet dinner at your neighbourhood restaurant A unique experience An evening at the opera, cinema or theatre
2. WHAT TYPE OF BOOKS CAN BE FOUND ON YOUR SHELVES? An encyclopedia Cookbooks Travel guides
3. YOU CONSIDER A TRIP A SUCCESS WHEN... Y ou taste delicious, unexpected new flavours You experience the local culture You have an adventure
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4. IF YOU COULD SNAP YOUR FINGERS AND SWITCH CAREERS, WHAT WOULD YOU BE? A scientific researcher A head pastry chef An airline pilot
5. DESCRIBE YOUR IDEAL DINNER. Enriching discussions Quirky, captivating anecdotes Surprising recipes and happy friends
6. WHICH VERB BEST DESCRIBES YOUR LIFE? Explore Understand Live
The scholar YOU CHOSE MOSTLY You’re a born scholar: there’s nothing you love more than analysing a topic until you understand it from every angle. Curiosity is your motivator. You like to learn new things and understand the world as a whole. Try starting with one of these classes, on the theme “Introduction to tea: growing, preparing and tasting”: The tea plant and how it’s grown; Tasting the best of tea: preparation techniques or The five senses in tasting.
The traveller YOU CHOSE MOSTLY
You have a traveller’s soul. You believe that life should be filled with adventures and discoveries. Not a day passes without planning your next escape, whether it takes you 20 km or 10,000 km from home. “Introduction to tea: producing countries” is the right theme for you, with classes such as: Tea in China, Tea in Japan, Tea in Taiwan, Tea in India or Tea in Nepal. Nepal, tea plantations in Employee visit to 19 20 ay Tea School, M organised by the
The pleasure-seeker YOU CHOSE MOSTLY Your inner pleasure-seeker has spoken. You love the good things in life, and fine food is very important to you. Nothing is more exciting to you than the alchemy of flavours, and you are constantly on the hunt for new culinary experiences. Start with the “Tea cuisine” theme by opting for one of these classes: Cooking with tea or Teabased cocktails.
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Grands Crus Selection
KY USU M A RU I REF. M178.
Grands Crus Selection September 2019 Prolong the summer with our multifaceted Himalayan Grands Crus and their endlessly unique flavour profiles, and enjoy a little sunshine this fall with our superb Japanese Ichibancha from the earliest spring harvests. These Sencha teas from the finest terroirs in Kyūshū and Honshū will delight you with their fresh, grassy, marine, and floral notes.
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Nepal: second flush Nepal’s second flush teas are in! This year, we are once again proud to bring you Grands Crus in every colour: black teas, green teas, Oolong, and even white teas. Nepal is a rich terroir, with producers as talented as they are innovative. Initially, almost everything Nepal produced was similar to the teas from Darjeeling. The past 50 years have witnessed rapid diversification inspired by traditional manufacturing techniques from China and Taiwan. The results are not to be missed!
TEENJURE GREEN This Ilam Valley tea is produced by one of the country’s very first cooperatives, founded more than 25 years ago. Nearly 200 farmers banded together to produce a wide variety of fine teas. This particular variety is a superb harvest of green tea, with a mix of delicately twisted leaves and dainty silver tips. The intensely grassy opening of this Grand Cru blossoms into mineral and vanilla notes over a very creamy texture. REF. 0836A19.
MAI POKHARI ANTIQUE OOLONG This Nepalese Oolong also comes from the Ilam Valley. The producer was inspired by the traditional Taiwanese method of manufacturing “antique” teas, meaning Oolong that have been intensely roasted multiple times. The result is an unusual, complex tea with strong toasted, fruity, and honeyed notes and a sweet vanilla closing. This rare and unique vintage is perfectly suited to the Gong Fu Cha method of preparation. REF. 0834A19.
Please note: All the teas featured on these pages are Grands Crus harvested in very small quantities, available for a specific and limited time with no guarantee of future availability. Available until the batch has gone, these teas may suddenly go out of stock. Our selection of Grands Crus is constantly evolving and expanding as we discover new teas and gardens on our travels. To find out about new arrivals as soon as possible, please sign up for our newsletter via our website palaisdesthes.com
* Inspected according to EU regulations on the plant-protection quality of food. More details at palaisdesthes.com
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Grands Crus Selection Japan: Ichibancha 2019 This year, we are proud to offer a selection that includes Japanese new season green teas Grands Crus, with even more rare cultivars offering unique aromatic characteristics. Experience the Saemidori, Meiryoku and Okumidori cultivars grown in Kyūshū, as well as a delicious Yabukita from Shizuoka. Visit our shops and our website for even more surprises, available in very limited quantities!
MEIRYOKU KAGOSHIMA SHINCHA This superb spring flush Sencha comes from Kagoshima, at the south western tip of the volcanic island of Kyūshū. It is made from a rare cultivar, Meiryoku, which has a particularly high concentration of caffeine and amino acids. An Ichibancha with intense grassy and marine notes, it is supported by a subtly powdery texture and a persistent umami flavour. A tea with a robust and refreshing profile. REF. 3067A19.
Organically farmed
OKUMIDORI KAGOSHIMA SHINCHA This Grand Cru from the island of Kyūshū also benefits from the rich volcanic soil of Kagoshima. It is produced from an uncommon cultivar called Okumidori. It is characterised by a late harvest of high quality leaves with a rich flavour profile. This green tea has an umami flavour and a broad palette of grassy, fruity and marine notes over a subtly powdery texture. A complex, intense tea. REF. 3069A19.
Organically farmed
SAEMIDORI KAGOSHIMA SHINCHA This sublime first flush Sencha comes from Kirishima, in Kagoshima. It is harvested at an altitude of 350 metres. The cultivar is named Saemidori (“clear green”) in tribute to the beautiful green colour of the leaves. This low-tannin cultivar, a cross between the renowned Yabukita and Asatsuyu, is especially prized in manufacturing shade-grown teas. A Grand Cru with a very creamy texture and an umami flavour that develops elegant and complex grassy, buttery, and fruity notes. REF. 3066A19.
Organically farmed
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Tasting notes
Yabukita Ryogôchi Shincha
Origin: Shizuoka, Japan Colour: green Water temperature: 70°C (160°F) Steeping time in the pot: 2 min. Amount of tea leaves per pot: 6 g for 300 ml REF. 3071A19.
A lovely Ichibancha from Shizuoka, the most prestigious region producing Sencha teas. This tea is harvested in Ryogôchi, in the village of Shimizu, near the Okitsu River. Our Yabukita Ryogôchi Shincha perfectly illustrates the characteristics of the renowned Yabukita cultivar, which is appreciated for its flavours and sturdiness. Dry leaves Appearance: fine needles with remarkable regularity. Colour: dark green, very glossy leaves. Scents: grassy, vanilla. Steeping Aromas: fresh grassy, floral, fruity. Brew Colour: light green. Texture: silky. Flavours: umami, with subtle acidity. Aromas: grassy, fruity (zest), floral, marine, buttery. Aromatic profile and length in the mouth: a silky, umamirich Grand Cru with a vivid opening of grassy notes and a dessert-like finale featuring buttery notes. Our opinion: experience an Ichibancha with a complex flavour profile that embodies all the quintessential qualities of Yabukita and an elegant texture that feels like touching silk. This Sencha is perfect for learning the Kyusu technique, which reveals the full depth of flavour of this Grand Cru with each steeping.
Learn more about the Kyusu technique Explore this traditional method for preparing tea, inspired by Senchadō, by visiting our website at palaisdesthes.com/en/savour/kyusu
* Inspected according to EU regulations on the plant-protection quality of food. More details at palaisdesthes.com
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Neuıs
1. The rich depths of green tea, in miniature Discover Iconic Green Teas, an elegant set containing four Japanese, Chinese and Korean green teas. Sencha Ariake, Genmaicha Yama, Long Jing and Jejudo Impérial are the perfect varieties to experience the rich depths of this colour of tea. An ideal gift. REF. DBM12.
2. Big blends in small packages Most Famous Flavoured Teas set contains four quintessential Palais des Thés blends in miniatures—the perfect way to experience Thé du Hammam, Thé des Moines, Fleur de Geisha, and Thé des Lords. A wonderful gift idea guaranteed to delight the recipient! REF. DBM11.
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* Inspected according to EU regulations on the plant-protection quality of food. More details at palaisdesthes.com
3. The 2-in-1 teapot The Fujian teapot is part kettle, part teapot. Its three preset programmes (75°C/165°F for green tea, 85°C/185°F for black tea and 95°C/200°F for Oolong) plus its “boil” (100°C/212°F) feature make steeping the perfect tea a breeze. REF. M189L. 0.8 L KETTLE TEAPOT FUJIAN - RIVIERA & BAR
4. Delicate Thé Guimet Composed in 2012 for the Musée Guimet in honour of the largest exhibit on tea ever held in France, Thé Guimet is an exclusive blend of green tea with fresh and floral flavours, evoking cherry blossoms and the zesty notes of citrus. REF. 852. LOOSE TEA
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Bring tea to the table!
Cocktail creations uıith La Réserve Paris In the plush atmosphere of one of the most prestigious luxury hotels in Paris, the talented Roxanne Remmery created Balade Scandinave, Paris pour elle, and Paris pour lui, evocative names for three delicious tea-based cocktails. Paris pour elle cocktail recipe MAKES 1 COCKTAIL STEEP TIME: 3 MINUTES PR EPAR ATION: 5 MINUTES DIFFICULTY: EASY
La Réserve Paris is one of the most talked-of destinations on the Champs-Élysées. Named the number-one hotel in the world by Condé Nast Traveler’s Readers’ Choice Awards, the establishment is a model of excellence that perfectly embodies the Palais des Thés commitment to offering
INGREDIENTS
the very best. It was only natural that the two companies
16 g Paris for her tea • 1 fresh raspberry • 1 cucumber slice • 20 ml (0.7 oz) fresh lime juice • 30 ml (1 oz) elderf lower liqueur • 40 ml (1.4 oz) gin • 1 white egg
would choose to work together, and Palais des Thés invited award-winning bar manager Roxanne Remmery to create
THE INFUSION
two cocktails inspired by its Thés de Paris blends. The
Steep 16 g of Paris for her in 1 L of water at 80°C (175°F) for 3 minutes, then refrigerate for one hour.
more floral of the cocktails, Paris pour elle, features gin, cucumber, elderflower liqueur and Paris for her * tea. The more intense cocktail, Paris pour lui, mixes champagne and Angostura bitters** with a touch of ginger-infused cognac and Paris for him*** tea. A third, more summery cocktail named Balade Scandinave blends the fresh flavour of lime with the sweetness of raspberries and Scandinavian Detox. This alcohol-free mocktail is a perfect thirst quencher for
MIX THE COCKTAIL Muddle the fresh raspberry with the cucumber slice • Add 20 ml fresh lime juice, 30 ml elderflower liqueur and 40 ml gin • Pour in 80 ml (3 oz) steeped tea • Add one white egg • Shake with ice cubes, then remove them to achieve a fine foam • Pour into a cocktail glass • Serve!
Prepared in a shaker and served without ice. Serving suggestion: decorate with rose petals.
those long summer evenings.
18 •
* Paris for her: a green tea with notes of rose and raspberry. ** Angostura bitters: this botanically infused alcoholic mixture, produced in Trinidad, is made of spices, plant extracts, natural herbs, and orange peel. *** Paris for him: a black tea with notes of citrus and coriander.
ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION CAN BE DANGEROUS FOR YOUR HEALTH. PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY.
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